Fashion. Beauty. Business. special Edition february 13, 2018

Getting Grander How to Fix It Last Time has agreed Analysts and consultants Jason Wu is exiting to help fund the discuss what H&M as artistic director of renovation of the should do to return to Boss’ women’s collection Grand Palais in . the growth track. after five years. Page 2 Page 4 Page 4

business

The Fosun Said Sea Collections To Beat New York Mayhoola Now For ● The Chinese conglomerate has outbid Qatari rival Mayhoola, according to sources with knowledge of the matter.

By WWD Staff PARIS — Fosun International has become the latest Chinese firm to buy into a European luxury label, beating Qatari rival Mayhoola Group to win control of French house Lanvin, several sources with knowledge of the matter said Monday. “Nothing is official for the moment,” said one source, adding that staff at Lanvin have yet to be notified of the deal. The sale agreement leaves Taiwanese media magnate Shaw-Lan Wang, who pre- viously held a 75 percent stake, on board as a minority shareholder with 20 percent. Continued on page 6

business Fashion Grapples With Fake Followers ● It’s become a serious issue for the number of brands shelling out big bucks to work with influencers.

By Rachel Strugatz and Adriana Lee …Buy now. Greats was about to pay an influencer remains one of instant with 10.5 million followers a midsix-figure fashion’s few remaining sum for a long-term partnership. But the proponents, and he made deal never went through. That’s because Ryan Babenzien, his case on Monday with founder and chief executive officer of a graphic and sprightly Greats, discovered that the majority of collection inspired by his the influencer’s followers were fake. In vacation home in Jamaica, doing “due diligence,” to get a better understanding of this person’s metrics — and ocean crossings of largely to make sure her followers aligned yore to d’Antibes. Here, with the brand’s target audience — Baben- his glossy sailing and zien was supplied with screenshots con- side-stripe pants. For more taining details about her Facebook and on the New York shows, Instagram followings. “When we mapped that over the world, see pages 10 to 17. we found that it was mathematically photograph By impossible for her to be as popular as she Giovanni Giannoni was and not have any of the 10 major cities Continued on page 18 2 february 13, 2018

business Bolt and Lewis Hamilton. With 80 percent of Puma’s custom- ers making purchases via their mobile phone, a platform launched last summer Puma Touts in Europe — billed as the first mobile-only development of Salesforce — will also be rolled out to the rest of the world over the next 18 months, he said. ‘Generation Hustle’ Addressing parent company Kering’s ● decision to spin off the majority of its The brand line was held at New York’s Park holding in Puma, meanwhile, Gulden said wants to continue investing Avenue Armory in September. the transaction will not spark any changes in key influencers from the Among recent recruits, the German in strategy. Fenty Puma by sportswear brand is counting on Instagram As reported, the company is distrib- Rihanna in black sports and entertainment powerhouse Selena Gomez — with her 133 uting 70 percent of its stake in Puma to cracked leather. worlds, with Selena Gomez million followers — to spread the word. shareholders, notably Artémis, which will among recent recruits. Gomez, who signed with the house in become a “long-term strategic shareholder” currency-adjusted terms to 1.04 billion September posted a photo of her first shoot of Puma with a 29 percent stake. Artémis euros, with double-digit growth in all By Katya Foreman for the house — modeling the Phenom holds a 40.9 percent stake in Kering and regions boosted by strong sales. from the brand’s fitness footwear line — gen- Kering will maintain a 16 percent interest profit in the three-month period end- PARIS — As a sign of the times, Puma is erated 4.8 million likes within hours, and in Puma going forward. About 55 percent ing Dec. 31 amounted to 2.2 million euros, increasingly focusing its marketing spend 54,000 comments, leading to almost 10 mil- of Puma’s stock will be free-floating on the compared with a loss of 4.6 million euros in on a “wide scale” of influencers, or figure- lion interactions around the collaboration. stock market. the same quarter last year. heads of “generation hustle,” as it looks “You can follow the heat map in real- “My feeling talking to [Artémis] and Its gross margin — a key indicator of prof- to cultivate an authentic dialogue with time, and how it spreads throughout the François-Henri Pinault….pretty intensively itability — grew by 250 basis points in the the younger consumer, Bjørn Gulden, the whole world in a matter of hours,” mar- over the last three weeks, as you can fourth quarter to 47.1 percent versus 44.6 brand’s chief executive officer, said Monday. veled Gulden. imagine, is that they see themselves as a percent in the equivalent year-ago period. Gulden saluted Rihanna, who was While the sportswear brand’s own social long-term shareholder,” he said. “I don’t Boosted by double-digit growth in all appointed women’s creative director in late media stats are not as impressive, with 6.6 really see that changing other than, of regions, with an ever-strong women’s 2014, on a three-year contract, with having million followers to date, the collective course, there will be less pressure to find business, sales for the full year passed the helped Puma “reconnect with the kids.” reach of the brand’s partners, he said, total synergies with Kering operationally. But 4-billion-euro mark for the first time, rising “It’s important that we [connect with] around 535 million followers. “That means as a partner, I’m sure they will help where 15.9 percent to 4.14 billion euros. Sales have this young kid who wants to be inspired that when they do something, with or with- they can help. [Both are] very interested in grown by 40 percent at the brand since by real , and who wants to hustle for a out Puma, it’s the driving force.” sports and of course fashion.” implementing its turnaround strategy in good and cool life. It’s a very targeted way Puma is also looking to bolster its family Puma will hold a Capital Markets Day on 2014. of communicating,” he said at the presen- of male ambassadors as it readies its push March 20 in , however, where “we Net profit more than doubled to 136 tation of the brand’s full-year results at its into the American sports arena which, the will go deeper into explaining the analyst million euros versus 62.4 million euros headquarters in Herzogenaurach, . ceo said, will be based on a “point of view” and investors what we do and will give year-over-year. With sales on women’s categories still a mixing a combination of field and stadium exposure to a wider part of our manage- Despite negative currency impacts, the major driving force of the business, driven “plus the culture of sport, which has to do ment team,” he said. full-year gross profit margin improved by by the Heart, Fierce and Platform footwear with entertainment and celebrities.” Maintaining its turnaround momen- 160 basis points to 47.3 percent versus 45.7 styles, Gulden didn’t share details on any Also expect to see more collaborations tum, Puma in terms of outlook expects percent in 2016. upcoming projects with the singer, though in in the vein of the just-launched Hello Kitty revenues to rise by around 10 percent in Puma this year will be celebrating both the results statement she was listed among hook-up that unexpectedly “blew up,” currency-adjusted terms, with the brand’s its 70th anniversary and the 50th anniver- key brand ambassadors to be featured on the with “people lining up at stores around the EBIT expected to total between 305 million sary of its iconic suede sneaker. entertainment side of the brand’s marketing world,” he said. euros and 325 million euros, up from 245 The brand also announced it has signed strategies in 2018, alongside the likes of Cara Meanwhile in April, the brand will launch million in 2017. three partnerships with football clubs, Delevingne and The Weekend. its Puma Track app where users will get to Consolidated sales in the fourth including a long-term partnership with AC Her last show for the Fenty Puma by train with brand “assets” including Usain quarter of 2017 rose 14.5 percent in , effective July 1.

FASHION gallery of the building for shows, such as the of view of its architecture and location — an cruise 2018 show, and exhibitions, like the absolutely exceptional dimension at the “Little Black Jacket” photo display in 2012. center of art and events, and that’s why it’s Chanel to Be Exclusive French Culture Minister Françoise important to be able to be a part of that,” Nyssen and Sylvie Hubac, president of said Pavlovsky. the Réunion des musées nationaux-Grand In addition, the house will devote just Sponsor of Grand Palais, held a press conference on Monday under 5 million euros for the creation of to detail plans for the 466-million-euro ren- permanent exhibition spaces at the Palais ovation, for which the French government Galliera, the city’s fashion museum, which is putting up the bulk of financing. are due to be unveiled in 2019. The rooms Palais Renovation French architecture studio LAN, in charge will be named after the house’s founder, of the project, plans to restore the building Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. ● The French luxury house will to its original splendor, create a connecting Chanel also plans to build a new site in contribute 25 million euros area between all exhibitions and increase the north of Paris, designed by award-win- toward the works, due to be the space available for public use in order to ning architect Rudy Ricciotti, to house its strengthen the location’s appeal as a major specialty ateliers. Expected to be completed completed in 2024. events venue and a key tourist destination. in 2020, it will be home to creative and By Joelle Diderich “The new Grand Palais must embody the production workshops. of the 21st century,” said Nyssen. Pavlovsky said the initiatives reflect the PARIS — Chanel said Monday it has signed “These investments will enable it to company’s commitment to creation in on as the exclusive private sponsor of the attract a larger and more diverse public, Paris. “It means being consistent and coher- renovation of the Grand Palais with plans to to welcome them under better conditions, ent, and it allows us to project the image of pledge 25 million euros toward the works, with new services and with new media the brand into the future,” he said. which are due to be completed in time for tools, new spaces for visiting and meeting. The nave of the Grand Palais, which the Summer Olympics in Paris in 2024. Today we attract three million visitors per already underwent an 11-year renovation As part of the agreement, the French A Chanel show set year; we hope for four million tomorrow,” prior to its reopening in 2005, will be fashion house wants to retain the exclusive at the Grand Palais. she added. closed from December 2020 until the right to use the nave of the glass-and-steel The Grand Palais hosts some 40 events spring of 2023 as part of the new round of structure for its fashion shows, said Bruno 1900, the Grand Palais has been the stage a year, including the FIAC art fair and the works. Other parts of the building will only Pavlovsky, president of fashion at Chanel. of Chanel creative director ’s Saut Hermès equestrian competition, and reopen in June 2024. He also confirmed the company will stage fashion shows since 2005, with props will be the venue for tae kwon do and Pavlovsky said Chanel would have to find its next cruise show at the venue. including a giant statue of a jacket, a fake fencing competitions during the Olympic a new venue for around 10 shows, starting “This represents for us the guarantee that iceberg and a reproduction of the Eiffel Games. The renovation will increase sur- with its presentation in Janu- we will continue to be able to benefit from Tower. With sets worthy of a film produc- faces available for rent by 24 percent. ary 2021 and ending with the March ready- this exceptional location. In addition, the tion, Lagerfeld also has transformed the The partnership is one of several major to-wear or July haute couture show in 2023. entrance to the nave will be christened after soaring space into a crumbling theater, investments by Chanel in Paris, and its larg- Hubac said officials at the Grand Palais Gabrielle Chanel,” Pavlovsky told WWD. an airport terminal, a supermarket and a est single sponsorship deal to date. would assist Chanel and other brands, “This allows us to write the history of rocket launch pad, complete with a simu- “This is an enormous project which is which show in the southeast gallery and Chanel in Paris in a very visual way.” lated takeoff. going to give the Grand Palais — one of the the Salon d’honneur, with finding alterna- Built for the Universal Exhibition of He has also used the smaller southeast most fantastic places in Paris from the point tive venues. THERE IS A PLACE where

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business “That’s a way to bring people into your environment I’ve put the seat in. I know his stores.” or her eyes will be at a certain height, and The analyst added that it could make maybe they can see the next promotion I sense to focus on more volume per have on the new products coming up….I How Can H&M product to improve profitability per unit, know that that’s an opportunity to sell.” noting that it’s easier to manage fewer Garris said the layout of cash registers product references. could also use attention. The chain could focus on sending a “This huge long massive lines of cash Improve Stores? clearer message to consumers about spe- registers, it reminds me of when you turn cific products and how they are different off onto the turnpike and you don’t know ● The fast-fashion retailer heads The company was looking into offering from what the competition offers, he also where your card is and you say, ‘Oh my to its date with investors in shareholders the option of reinvesting said, pointing to Japanese rival Uniqlo’s god, I have to get out the .’ And it dividends in exchange for stock, which method of highlighting items like the says to me in a very ominous way, ‘Take Stockholm with a number of would have provided more funds for turn- puffer which are displayed prom- out your wallet — I’m looking at you.’” topics to tackle. around projects. But on Tuesday, H&M inently in stores, with special displays to He suggests making the payment said it has shelved that idea, citing tech- show how they are different from prod- system easier and as user-friendly as pos- By Mimosa nical complications and time constraints, ucts from rivals. sible, citing Ian Schrager boutique hotels PARIS — Executives at Hennes & Mauritz and will propose an annual dividend of Interior designer Dillon Garris worked that put a normal desk out with some- AB will spend Valentine’s Day explain- 9.75 Swedish kronor, or $1.21 a share, at its on Lacoste’s store network for six years one siting behind it in a more informal ing their plans to investors on how they May shareholder meeting, the same level and more recently helped the skiwear manner. expect to rejuvenate the business. The as the previous year. company Fusalp relaunch the brand, Lara Hinton, who advises brands for company is revisiting its vast network of With anticipation growing ahead of the shifting from a wholesale to build- development strategies, pointed out the stores and testing new ideas as part of its Valentine’s date, the looming question ing its own network of stores. During his importance of the sensory experience of adjustment to the shift in consumption is what can H&M do to improve its vast time at Lacoste, the label stripped down visiting a store. online. network of stores — the retailer counted the amount of furniture as part of a bid “What’s interesting in the approach “We expect the event to be very well nearly 5,000 at the end of last year. to focus on the products, which were of human beings, in communication or attended and we think it will give the Cedric Lecasble, an equity analyst with arranged around the floor in a way that even marketing, we can affect people with company a chance to explain more how Raymond James, noted his team has for allowed salespeople to notice best-selling senses, what you see, what you taste — it can correct product range mistakes months puzzled at why the company items at a glance around the store. this is all part of experience,” for the main H&M brand and more color continued to pursue such aggressive net- Garris said H&M should consider focus- she said. on how it can reignite sales growth,” work expansion when the performance of ing on specific spaces where the label can She cited the example of a European said Richard Chamberlain of RBC Capital existing stores called for attention. interact with customers, starting with the urban supermarket chain that tucked a Markets. “It took a long time and a lot of pain dressing room. couch and a spot for drinking an espresso A dip in annual profits reported a few before management finally challenged the “While they’re in there you have a into a corner of the store: weeks ago showed the Swedish fast-fash- business model that has propelled H&M to captive client that you can help buy other “It’s a little corner that’s a bit like ion retailer is struggling against competi- being the second-largest apparel retailer things….You want to incite them to have home.,” she said, suggesting H&M could tion from nimbler rivals on several fronts, in the world,” Lecasble said. an impulse buy with that extra ten dollars introduce an environment invoking a adding pressure on the company to offer While the analyst explained he’s not a that they didn’t want to spend or hadn’t space in an apartment where things could a convincing turnaround program during specialist in store merchandising, he sees thought of spending,” he said. be displayed. its rare capital markets day. room to make simple improvements, in Citing the often sprawling size of the “Sometimes people want to sit down “With online sales growing, it’s becom- signage or by reducing the number of retailer’s stores, Garris suggested crafting when they’re in a store — one could make ing easier to buy online — the stores need products in some stores, for example. small living room environments. At a a spot that’s cozy and at the same time to offer something more and more of a “I wouldn’t be able to teach them their recent store visit, he said he noticed there perhaps changes in function of the collec- great experience, not only as a place for business — they’ve had phenomenal wasn’t any space for people to sit. tions — it could be a place of promoting buying garments, maybe offering other success, they’ve been very good at what “I understand the philosophy ‘We products, for example, coffee, and feature things as well, and also packaged in a they do for a long time, but beyond their don’t want our clients to lounge, we want a brand in a cobranding effort, providing nicer interior, easier to shop and easier to online model falling behind, in the phys- them to zip in and zip out.’ But the thing tasting experience for a spell,” she said. return and maybe other services as well,” ical stores, the products, their display, is they’re not just selling T- and The global retailer could also seize the said Karl-Johan Persson at the H&M’s merchandising, signage — it could all be — if there’s one person in a party chance to introduce a local element to earnings presentation in January. “We’re revisited.” of shoppers who would like to lounge, stores in its network by teaming with local looking into a wide range of things.” The main problem, according to Lecas- I think that option should be there for players, displaying local items or doing Executives cited services meant to bet- ble, is the drop in store traffic. A well-or- them,” he said. an event with a local business to bring ter integrate physical and digital stores, ganized click-and-collect system that Such loungers can turn out to be “fan- brands closer to people, she added. such as click and collect, of offers fluidity between online and off-line tastic buyers,” he added. “These are ideas, but they are real online purchases in physical stores and activity, for example, could help drum up “When I have someone sitting, I know subjects that brands are working on,” she mobile payments. traffic, he noted: how to direct his attention, with the said, referring to other companies.

fashion in the past 10 years and throughout my whole career. I am never really the complaining kind. I love doing a lot of Jason Wu, Hugo Boss End Alliance things. One of my biggest idols is Karl Lagerfeld. I think to be able to do a lot is ● With a 10-year-old company of stayed on to help the brand with the tran- Anna Ewers in Hugo fortunate. I’m really happy to have done his own, the designer said he is sition of its next stage,” the designer said. Boss and Jason Wu. a lot. But I’m also happy now that I can “It’s going on to the next generation and concentrate 100 percent on my brand. We looking to Asia for growth. iteration of Hugo Boss. We just shot the fall are really looking at Asia and being 2018 campaign in January in New York. I’m a really big step for me next.” By Rosemary Feitelberg happy to have helped the brand get more But don’t look for Wu to be taking on Nearly five years after Jason Wu took on notoriety in terms of women’s wear.” a creative director role with another con- the role of artistic director of women’s wear The first Gallery Collection was unveiled glomerate in the immediate future. “After at Hugo Boss, the designer and German during last summer’s . 10 years in the business, I feel like I need fashion powerhouse are parting ways. Last December, Wilts spoke of the need to devote all my energy on my own label,” Today’s Gallery Collection presentation for redefining the women’s business while he said. at Cedar Lake will be Wu’s swan song for a unveiling a new generation store at Mall Having started his own company right Boss women’s wear collection. But he and of the Emirates, revealing plans to bridge out of fashion school, Wu said he has Hugo Boss executives appear to be ready to the gap between its men’s and women’s never had a “quote-unquote official job in move on. Thanking Wu for his “incredible lines. “We have to rebuild the women’s. fashion” other than internships. “Through creative input and inspiration,” chief brand Our woman always has to be feminine and Hugo Boss I’ve just been able to learn so officer Ingo Wilts said, “I feel certain that he sensual but she also has to be sexy. I think much about the inner workings of a mega will approach all his future projects with the the mistake we did over the past years, we international brand. There is a lot of knowl- same compelling passion and zest that he went a little left, right and center. We do edge that I will take with me to the next brought to Hugo Boss — and for which we need to address the younger customer in phase of my career in my own company. are highly indebted to him at that time.” our product,” he said at that time. From global retail to visual merchandising With a 10-year-old company of his own Referencing the scope of projects that he to looking at a brand in a very 360-degree to run, Wu is proud of his five-year alliance has been able to work on with Hugo Boss sense, I’ve learned things I never had expe- with Boss. “I feel like by today’s standards — fragrance, fashion shows and campaigns rience in until I entered Hugo Boss. To look that’s a very long time, which I’m very, very — Wu said he fortunate to have collab- my career and my own company.” at everything in every category of products proud of. It’s public knowledge that about orated with Wilts on “the next phase, his Although plenty has been written about and to [see] how to take a seasonal message a year and a half ago there was a man- phase of Hugo Boss. I feel like it’s a good big-name designers being stretched too and have that translate at retail has been

hotograph by Lexie Moreland Lexie by P hotograph agement change at Hugo Boss. I’ve really time for me to leave and to concentrate on thin, Wu said, “I’ve worn many different kind of amazing,” Wu said.

6 february 13, 2018

The spring Fosun Said to Beat Lanvin show. Mayhoola for Lanvin continued from page 1

Swiss businessman Ralph Bartel is said to be holding on to his 25 percent share in the house’s capital. Officials at Lanvin and Fosun declined to comment. The acquisition comes on the heels of news last Friday that Chinese and apparel giant Shandong Ruyi Group, which controls SMCP and Hong Kong’s Trinity Group, was taking a majority stake in Bally. It ushers in a new era at Lanvin, which was under pressure to find an investor before the end of the month, as it faced a liquidity crisis. After an auditor last year issued a warning over the label’s financial situation, Wang promised to inject cash into the struggling business, but the funds never materialized. Fosun has pledged to bring 100 million euros to the table, said a second source, although they cautioned that this would provide only temporary relief, given Lan- vin’s deepening losses. Shaw-Lan Wang The oldest house still in stakes in Greek jeweler Folli Follie and The designer received a settlement in activity has seen sales erode since a peak U.S. label St. John Knits Inc. In November, the neighborhood of 10 million euros in of 235 million euros in 2012. In 2016 reve- it bought a majority stake in the Italian an out-of-court arbitration late last year in nues fell 23 percent to 162 million euros, tailor Caruso and is also looking at pur- his long-running dispute with Lanvin for with a net loss of 18.3 million euros, mark- chasing a controlling stake in firm compensation over his dismissal, accord- ing its first red ink in nearly a decade. La Perla. ing to two sources. The company’s 2018 budget projects Mayhoola Group, which controls Valen- As part of its cost-cutting efforts, Lanvin losses of more than 40 million euros, tino, is said to have expressed interest in plans to stage a smaller-than-usual run- following a deficit of more than 50 million Lanvin prior to its 2016 acquisition of Bal- way show on Feb. 28 to showcase its fall euros in 2017, the second source said. main, but balked at the price Wang was women’s collection designed by Olivier While Fosun’s name had emerged in seeking, said to be in the neighborhood of Lapidus. Its guest list has been trimmed recent days as one of the bidders, it was 500 million euros. to 450 guests from 750, but the house is seen as the less likely choice given its rela- Lanvin has struggled to find its foot- sticking with a runway format rather than tive lack of experience in fashion. Industry ing since dismissing creative director a presentation, said a source familiar with news site Fashion Network first reported in October 2015, following its plans. that Fosun had emerged victorious. disagreements between the designer and Wang bought Lanvin from L’Oréal The group is active in the health, prop- Wang over the company’s direction. Elbaz in 2001, and in 2007 sold the brand’s erty and mining sectors, and owns assets catapulted the brand’s notoriety during fragrance and cosmetics business to Inter including France’s Club Med and minority his 14-year tenure. Parfums SA for 22 million euros.

business when it’s time to hand off to someone who can do a better job,” said Sholl. “It’s the right time to do it. We are evolving With an Eye on Expansion, and building omnichannel operations. This allows us to divide and conquer.” She said she will continue to be involved MadaLuxe Group Names Freede CEO in the buying and focusing on the brand culture, direct-to-consumer and retail ● Executive changes involving company operates e-commerce and is an open in mid-April its second MadaLuxe operations. the founders will support equity owner of Haute . Vault boutique, a 3,500-square-foot “For this year, we are planning for Among the latest initiatives, MadaLuxe unit in San Clemente, Calif. The first an additional three openings after San growth maneuvers. signed a lease on Broadway in Manhat- MadaLuxe Vault opened in December Clemente,” Sholl said, emphasizing that By David Moin tan’s Garment District for a 9,000-square- in the Citadel Outlets in . Its the retail rollout has to be very carefully foot showroom and office which is 3,000-square-foot space at the Citadel orchestrated so that locations don’t dis- The MadaLuxe Group has promoted expected to open this spring. MadaLuxe’s sells luxury brands at off-price including rupt business at retailers that it supplies, Adam Freede from president to chief existing office locations in the city will be women’s and men’s apparel, accessories such as Saks Off 5th, Nordstrom Rack and executive officer, to support growth initia- consolidated into the site. and footwear. Neiman Marcus Last Call, or at brand-op- tives on several fronts. Also, MadaLuxe disclosed that it will Freede has been responsible for forging erated stores. MadaLuxe Group’s former ceo, Sandy deals with brands and retailers. As ceo, “It’s our job as partners with luxury Sholl, has been named executive chair- Adam Freede he will lead growth strategies and infra- suppliers to find good solutions for dis- man and will continue to oversee retail, structure advances as well. According to tribution that don’t disrupt any business, e-commerce and marketing. Sholl is the Freede, the company’s wholesale busi- and distribute with the ultimate level of mother of Freede. They cofounded the ness represents more than $200 million integrity,” Sholl stressed. company in 2010. in retail sales. He does not disclose his The upcoming San Clemente boutique, “We are aggressively pursuing expan- own company’s volume. Freede said, will be “very similar in look sion and going down a lot of different Asked what motivated the executive and feel,” to the one in L.A. but there will roads,” Freede told WWD in an exclusive changes, Freede said, “We thought the be tweaks in the merchandising to test interview. “We are in this unique entre- time was right to make the switch for a concepts and accommodate the some- preneurial niche and we are still small couple of reasons. I am really ready and what different clientele. “The client base enough to be agile and quick.” hungry for the opportunity and we have in San Clemente is more local as opposed

The family-owned and -operated a big focus on building out our infrastruc- to the heavy tourist concentration in the D ominique Maître by Wang eugère; company, based in Seal Beach, Calif., has ture, logistics and other capabilities to current location,” the new ceo said, add- a unique business model. It’s involved capitalize on the initiatives we have.” He ing that the second site will place a height- in the distribution of luxury goods to said he will be focused on both “driv- ened focus on certain everyday categories off-price retailers as well as distributing ing the business on the front end and such as eye wear, and could be geared to luxury timepieces from Ferragamo, Ver- integrating every components of our back greater seasonality. With the rollout of the sace and Versus Versace to regular-priced end to support our growth.” He acknowl- MadaLuxe Vault boutiques, “We will make retailers. In addition, MadaLuxe has just edged that further management changes our way east,” Freed said. “But as of now, begun rolling out its own off-price luxury could occur in the near future. all the locations we have targeted for 2018

boutiques, called MadaLuxe Vault; the “Part of being a great ceo is knowing are West Coast-based.” F Stéphane by photograph Lanvin Los Angeles 8470 Melrose Place 8 february 13, 2018

A rendering Apple and Facebook create campuses — of Area15 in environments unto themselves — while Las Vegas. others such as iHeartMedia Inc., where Beneville Studios serves as chief creative consultant, also want to create environ- ments that incentivize employees to come into . That idea of storytelling is nothing new, Beneville Studios chief exec- utive officer and Area15 creative partner Michael Beneville said. “It’s an idea that was by and large forgot- ten for a period of time and replaced with a sense that just materials or just architec- ture or just technology by themselves are enough of a magnetic pull to keep a person not only in their place, but also inspired,” Beneville said. That hasn’t been the case for a while as the world shifted. Workplaces changed and loyalty to an employer, or a mall for that matter, has waned. “We’re a different breed right now,” Beneville said. “Any change like that has an architectural impact because a store or an office didn’t have to worry about you leaving. They didn’t have to worry about the talent being poached in the same way a store or office has now.... The way it applies to Area15 is that the mall in America is not dead; the mall in America needs reinven- tion. The way that malls started in a way in America, Walt Disney created it. Walt Disney was the guy who realized that if you gave people a narrative thread, they would shop as a logical extension in being part of that continuous story.” It’s a well-rounded experience that has to be created where it’s not just art or it’s not just tech that is the solution, Beneville said. business “My caution is that [storytelling or immersive] often gets used to pay lip service and somebody plugs in a couple of VR machines and that’s supposed to be Area15 Looking to Take Retail your experience. It doesn’t really work that way,” he said. “We are building a parallel universe to humanity right now, an entire digital universe in which one day not far Entertainment to Another Level off many people will spend a great deal of ● A new kind of development — time. The interesting thing, though, is that portal [and] what’s the experience of going not just another mall — looks from one to the other. That transition is to shake things up in Vegas. everything. So for immersive to be truly immersive it needs to be more than just a By Kari Hamanaka little thing that you plug in.” New York developer Fisher Brothers had Fisher explained the thinking behind tap- no interest in plopping just another box ping a creative agency in a different way. on land. Instead, the vision for its Area15 “Real estate doesn’t think like that. project in Las Vegas calls for something far Real estate says, ‘I’m building a building more ambitious. and it’s permanent,’ but the truth is you The family-run real estate firm is calling have to build something that’s evolving,” Area15 an immersive bazaar that will fuse Fisher said. interactive art installations with food and In fact, the original concept for the plot retail. The anchor tenant isn’t a depart- of Vegas land Fisher Brothers acquired ment store; it’s 50,000 square feet dedi- before the Great Recession was essentially cated to a New collective of artists to build buildings — residential, commer- who call themselves Meow Wolf, backed cial and retail to be more specific — before by “Game of Thrones” creator George Area15 was ever conceived. R.R. Martin. “I’d seen a lot of people come with grand “Area15 is what we feel is the disruption An interior visions and a lot of people who failed on in retail and where the opportunity is,” rendering of their grand visions,” Fisher said of the said Fisher Brothers principal Winston a portion Vegas market. Fisher. “It’s no great secret that retail has of Area15. To that end, the team at Fisher Brothers been disrupted. I’m not particularly smart realized there was opportunity in building in saying Amazon has changed the retail 3-D mapping; “The Flux Capacitor” car 29Rooms, or even a concept like Beni- an attraction for locals looking for an alter- experience.... I have a belief that when we installation created by Las Vegas sculptor hana, Fisher said, are valued experiences. native to the Strip, while at the same time study the 21st century business models Henry Chang, and a Balinese bamboo art It’s not Santa’s Workshop or an Easter egg being a big enough draw to capitalize on the that are successful, they are not improving piece designed by architecture and design hunt inside of a mall, which the developer obvious tourist traffic already flowing into on the 20th century. They’re reinventing firm Ibuku. called “spoon-feeding the customer a Vegas for the casinos and shopping on Las the model for the 21st century and starting Meow Wolf is known for its “House of cheap experience.” Vegas Boulevard. The site’s proximity to the from scratch. An old mall is a building for Eternal Return” interactive mystery house Instead, what Fisher Brothers, in a Strip — about seven minutes — also helps. Ultimately, the project is still in its early an old tenant.” installation, which was built on a former joint venture with New York creative firm uprecht Area15, which ground in January, bowling alley and has seen nearly a million Beneville Studios, aims to do is curate an days, with lease deals to be struck to fill is slated for a mid-2019 opening. The com- people walk through its doors since open- experience of music, food and art seam- out the space. The types of tenants the R eter pany isn’t saying how much it’s spending ing. The attraction perhaps provides some lessly working together. developer would like to see go in can’t be on the project. By the numbers, there are hint at what’s to come at Area15. The pairing of the family-run devel- described with boilerplate language, other 126,000 square feet available for lease, The project’s name — Area15 — is what opment firm and a creative agency is than they have to be active participants 40,000 square feet of indoor and outdoor Fisher Brothers calls its “ trick of an interesting one, but reflective of the to the overall environment. If they’re just event space targeted for anything from names.” It’s a play on Area 51, with its tag times as more retailers claim to want to there to take up a box and push product, music to sports and more than 800 parking line “This does not exist.” The project also bring “immersive experiences” into their it’s probably not going to work. spaces. Some 30,000 square feet is to be sits along Interstate 15 and, lastly, Fisher centers. Companies, in general, more and “What we’re looking for are tenants that dedicated to a space dubbed The Spine Brothers got its start in 1915. more want some sort of narrative element provide cool experiences,” Fisher said. filled with a variety of art installations, Experiences like what Meow Wolf in even just the buildouts of their corporate “We don’t have a formula; what we have is

including sculptures utilizing lighting and intends to do at Area15, or Refinery29’s headquarters. Giant firms such as Google, a standard.” P by A + I ; nterior by rendering E xterior

10 february 13, 2018 The Reviews

The Collections New York

Ralph Lauren A mass sojourn to Jamaica is less easily orchestrated than one to Bedford, N.Y., so for spring, Ralph Lauren brought a little of the tropical paradise to his audience. (Yes, spring. Though he acknowledges certain logistical issues, Lauren is sticking with buy-now-wear-now, for now). For his return to Skylight Studios, he recreated a corner of the White Lily Cottage at his Jamaica estate, the pristine white-and- rattan installation leading to a sea-blue Plexiglas runway. “I love the sensibility of blue and white,” Lauren said during a preview. “If I did just blue and white for the rest of my life, it would be amazing.” In fact, he didn’t do just blue and white for the duration of the show, though he started that way. To open the show, Lauren’s models strolled out beachy, barefoot and just a touch retro in lovely cut from a number of soothing prints. Punctuating the sequence: a strapless made from raw-edged, fly- away strips of all of the prints, worn over , the look both casual and ethereal. Yet just as one might have felt lulled into a state of gentle respite, Lauren left the lazy, hazy days behind to set sail for full-on, sporty exuberance. A crew of women and men hit the runway in vibrant boating gear done up with beach-scene graphics Ralph Lauren — bathing beauty, , ocean liner – in a range from real-deal sportswear to a buckle-front bustier. Breaking up the pictorials: a snappy mini T- in striped micro sequins. Though adapted from Lauren designed in the Nineties, the graphics were reinterpreted with 21st century knowhow, numerous high-tech fabrics designed for durability and high-shine, utilizing bond- ing ( cady to PVC, for example), and a thread-free ultrasonic stitching technique. Also of the moment: tweaking the logo. Many pieces featured newfangled, highly visible variations, in bold block lettering as well as a take on the designer’s signature. There was much to admire in the way Lauren seamlessly integrated so diverse an assortment of good-looking clothes — day to night, evening to beach to boat, women and men. But the collection suffered from overstatement. Placing a huge ocean-liner graphic front-and-center on a jacket makes for demonstrative fun; doing it repeatedly lessens the impact. Then again, in a bandwagon world, Lauren has never hopped aboard. (Why

would he, with all those cars?) In fact, he odin Banica may be fashion’s most aggressive icono- clast. To paraphrase his oft-stated mantra, he does what he does. In that sense, he’s paved the way for Alessandro Michele, who has stated that he wants to develop his as a continuous expression of his vision, rather than a trend factory. That’s what Lauren has done for 50 years and counting. It’s made him an icon – one who doesn’t have to overstate his case. Unless,

of course, he feels like it. — Bridget Foley G iannoni and R G iovanni by P hotographs february 13, 2018 11

3.1 Phillip Lim Prabal Gurung

3.1 Phillip Lim Prabal Gurung 3.1 Phillip Lim Prabal Gurung In fashion, “the nomad” is a device Singapore, Nepal, New Delhi, Melbourne, commonly used as an excuse for eclectic London and then New York. This is not the styling techniques or to romanticize a itinerary of an imaginary exciting trip around rumpled, haphazard look. Do any of us the world, but the actual stops of that adven- actually know a true nomad, a word that turous journey which Prabal Gurung calls life. suggests someone displaced from his or The designer’s rich international back- her home, shopping the advanced contem- ground with the diverse influences of the porary floor? multiple countries where he has lived all Phillip Lim’s fall collection was a rare translated into his beautiful fall collection. example of the wanderer’s life used to con- Gurung masterfully managed to create a jure something that actually felt personal bridge between the Eastern and the Western and will service the non-migrant worlds by blending different cultural refer- in equal measure. The looks were a patch- ences together into a charming lineup, which work of many different fabrics, patterns, was extremely feminine and glamorous yet layers and proportions, gently assembled unfussy at the same time. to create a picture of a pretty magpie who Great artisanal craftsmanship stood out most likely has a full-time job. Lim wanted on the catwalk, where lightweight asymmet- to “celebrate difference and what the ric featuring draped overlays beauty of different things brings to us,” and more linear styles jazzed up by allover he said backstage after the show. “It’s in sequined and beaded patterns were matched response to immigration right now and me with covetable cozy combining dif- being an immigrant. It’s almost like, ‘Hey, ferent techniques, including cable , look at us.’” jacquard and needle punching. They were There was a lot to take in: a cow-print worked in delicate tonal scales of and pony over a multicolored striped blue, which contrasted with the bright red marled knit dress over a knit turtleneck; a hue of a chic knitted turtleneck dress embel- softly draped pleated dress in patchworked lished with a cloud of feathers. pastels worn with a jangly seashell charm Mongolian shearling was paired with ; a bi-colored — half khaki, quilted on an elongated vest that half black — over a brown peasant combined a functional look with extreme dress traced in asymmetrical seams. Crin- sophistication. The same attitude was kled pastels that were cut into loose suiting infused in an elevated match- and flowing peasant dresses with blunt, ing sport-inspired colorblocking with an uneven hems were made out of fabrics exquisite feather decoration. typically used for linings and pressed in A timeless, hyper elegant attitude was a panne machine to achieve a no-time-to- far and wide feel made with love. He infused in the closing evening dresses, which iron look. The pale colors built into deep learned how at home. “My mom used to spanned from an asymmetric sequined black-based floral, intense blue and Army make clothes from scraps,” he said. “My purple gown with a sensual slit to a more dis- greens. Piling looks with scarves, big favorite pillows, my shirts, stuff like that, creet blue design unexpectedly and bigger is a big trend right she would repair everything and turn decorated with a casual drawstring. now, but Lim made his assemblages of the most humble fabrics into the most What a sweet way to end a working — and prints that looked picked up from travels treasured things.” — Jessica Iredale rainy — weekend! — Alessandra Turra 12120 february 13, 2018

Ji Oh Claudia Li Dennis Basso

sweatshirts in off-kilter, deconstructed aesthetic attitude that was more confident cuts similar to her shirting. Red and and elevated. Dennis Basso baby blue sweatshirts were printed with While researching stories about silence, For pre-fall, Dennis Basso embraced The Millennial-friendly words — “Stooooop,” Li came across Turkish fairy-tale, “The the modern jeans-and-T- woman by “Approachable” and “Darling.” The results Silent Princess,” in which a cursed prince, giving her fabulous day-appropriate furs; Collections were more refined than raw street and even on the brink of death, finds the will to for fall, he took this approach a step fur- made for a slightly more adult taken on carry on. It was a potent message of resil- ther with a collection of sportswear that New York sport . It’s good to flex one’s ience. “I felt like there is hope. You need to ranged from “casual and sporty” to shim- design muscles and try new things, but keep going and be determined. It’s about mery evening. “Thirty-five years: an evo- Oh’s shirts, pants — tapered with a higher endurance.” lution of the iconic Dennis Basso woman. and shirt- — leather skirts Season to season, Li displays a more We gave her evening (and furs) all these and fur cuffs and hats — felt the most mature hand. Indeed, this range felt more years and this year sportswear, daytime Ji Oh authentic. — Jessica Iredale rounded out and approachable, with à la Basso,” the designer exclaimed. The Ji Oh has fueled her still very emerging different brand “isms” like structure and lineup was vast, 70 looks in total that des- brand on a few staples — chicly unbalanced playfulness applied in more minimal ways. perately needed a hard edit down; instead takes on men’s shirts, tapered black pants Claudia Li Her penchant for volume was seen as of multiple, bedazzled T-shirts, shimmer- and great knits with a proportion or neck- “I didn’t get a dress until this morn- exaggerated collars on tailored coats and ing separates, velvet dresses and line exaggerated here and there. The look ing! It was still on a machine,” Claudia double pleated skirts that swayed open and plaid crepe , one or falls somewhere between informal but not Li exclaimed while noting how stressful dramatically when the models walked. The two of each would have sufficed. But two too casual. As a current member of the putting together her fall presentation had understated nature inherent in a loosely white tweed offerings — coats with chains CFDA Fashion Incubator, Oh is working on been. Thankfully the dress in question cut white sequined dress or twin set made and matching skirts — made for a nice developing and experimenting, and to that — made of burnt orange sequins with con- of a custom jacquard mirrored the moment of sparkle. In Basso’s version of end, took a trip to St. Petersburg, Russia, trasting graphic black lines — made it and designer’s own trajectory. “The collections sportswear there were some fun, over- to see what inspires the young fashion was a clear bright spot in the lineup. are growing with me, I see that now.” the-, high-glam, moments: leather scene there. “I went to this antique street The designer has felt the weight of a Though the tone of the clothes was soft, trousers with inserts and beading, full of small stalls and all they had were gloomy social landscape this past year the message of hope and joy was loud and midriff holographic tops and skirts and these activewear fleece pieces, like Nike and wanted to put out a message of hope, clear. — Andrew Shang sable . The best evening looks and Fila, which is what Gosha [Rubchins- which she did charmingly. There were were sheer with celestial embroidery, kiy] does,” she said. She wanted to try vibrant pops of hot pink and cactus green but the loads of fur jackets and boas still

sport and streetwear her way, working balanced with cheerful prints and an outshone the lot. — Emily Mercer Chinsee O nada and G eorge Masato by P hotographs ADVERTORIAL

THEONEMILANO The haut-à-porter exhibition aims to conquer America.

IN MILAN FROM 23 TO 26 FEBRUARY 2018 AT FIERAMILANOCITY

he third edition of the She experiments with materials that haut-à-porter exhibition include , full fur, knits in the most TheOneMilano is just precious natural , techno outer- around the corner. The wear, and leather and vinyls for acces- exhibition, which runs sories. She wants to achieve a simple February 23 to 26, takes and hypermodern flavor, and aims for Tan innovative approach by bringing dimensionality with a clever use of fur. information and business together under TheOneMilano is greatly appreci- the same roof. Taking place at fieramila- ated by buyers from around the globe, nocity in , it pres- as the figures from the February 2017 ents the women’s fashion and accessories exhibition prove. Last year, 64 percent collections for fall/winter 2018-2019. of visitors came from abroad. TheOneMilano brings the new styles The relatively new exhibition is only of haute-à-porter fashion to life with in its third edition. But it combines the high-end garments. In pavilions three know-how of two longstanding players and four, attendees will see collections in Milan’s fashion trade fairs: MIFUR, designed by the best international compa- the international fur and leather exhibi- nies, as well as up-and-coming brands. tion, which has been organized by Ente The event highlights the image of Fieristico Mifur since1996; and MIPAP, a contemporary woman who is able to the prêt-à-porter exhibition organized articulate her urban style with elegance by Fiera Milano since 1980. and panache. This is a woman who The event is exclusively available to leans towards the sophisticated, uses professional visitors, as the exhibition is bold colors, and thinks about “dressing strictly B2B. The first two editions saw for success” by making use of a wide around 15,000 people taking part. selection of textures. For more information: theonemilano.com 14 february 13, 2018

Yeohlee

John Elliott

Tanya Taylor

of proportions and his true streetwear John Elliott pedigree — his latest Nike Vandal collabora- Returning to the New York runway after tion is sure to become a collector’s item — taking a break for a season, John Elliott surely put him in a league of his own. debuted his first women’s collection along- — Alex Badia side his men’s. “For my women’s, I wanted to incorporate this idea of hard and soft, bringing elements that are very prevalent on Tanya Taylor my men’s, but with a softer touch,” Elliott As a new mom, Tanya Taylor said she said backstage before the show. is more clearly understanding the impor- A clear example was a high-waisted tance of offering women practical, straight- black-coated paired with an forward clothes. oversize alpaca turtleneck and Elliott’s “Unfussy and uncomplicated” is how trademark boxy bomber jacket that had she described her fall lineup, which was cool girl written all over it. inspired by Suzanne Duchamp and Han- His men’s also exhibited more sophis- nah Höch. tication than in seasons past, thanks The Dadaist artists influenced the to the use of English heritage checks, designer on two levels. With their strong, and plaids for top coats, crop unconventional and avant-garde person- Zadig & Voltaire jackets and pants. “I wanted to appropri- alities, they pushed Taylor to embrace a ate classic men’s wear fabrics but make no-frills, empowered idea of femininity and, them our way,” Elliott said. A seven-wale at the same time, their works echoed in the needed to clearly telegraph her message of relaxed jeans. Her energetic runway was a short served as collection’s multicolor geometric prints and discreet femininity and sober elegance. way of highlighting, which featured both the perfect bridge between the two worlds. patchworks. For example, graphic patterns Taking inspiration from the men and women’s looks, contrasts of the A distressed leather “Perfecto”-style jacket were splashed on a fluid, asymmetric of samurais and Chinese amahs, who feminine and masculine and androgy- with a pair of plaid red and black pants silk dress and rendered as colorful were women working in families as both nous, mini and oversize, or delicate and hinted at Eighties punk, which gave the sequined embroideries on a midi skirt worn nannies and maids, she delivered a concise structured. collection another interesting layer. with a simple gray wool . collection integrating Far Eastern elements She worked the brand’s penchant for In the past the Los Angeles-based A range of mannish fabrics were into a chic, modern wardrobe. knitwear and leathers in new and inviting designer has traveled to Southeast Asia and introduced including a checkered suiting A simple was worked in a ways. Chunky sweaters in red and cream Japan for inspiration; this time a trip to the wool crafted for a pair of slightly flared sophisticated jacquard fabric with an Asian with elongated had that snatch- “iconic” old strip of Vegas was a source. pants, worn with a cozy sweater showing botanical pattern, which also appeared on off-the-runway quality for their inherent Vintage neon signs and casino graphics a romantic floral jacquard motif, and a the sleeves of a -like jacket, whose coziness and editorial leaning. The opening were used as motifs on printed shirts and kilt skirt with a solid insert, which was front was crafted from the same fabric leather with crystal trim maintained sweatshirts, resulting in a “tacky” humor- matched with a metallic knit for a spar- but used inside out. A dotted cloth got the that balance of rough and soft. New to the ous addition. kling touch. same treatment on Teng’s take on the clas- brand’s fabric library were vinyl leathers cut Mixing vintage references with street Even if the designer focused on simple, sic — an essential top matched into pants that looked painted-on. and athletic elements seems to be one of wearable silhouettes, she didn’t go plain. with slim pants. A thread of androgyny was of partic- today’s formulas for success, but Elliott’s Actually, she played with vibrant colors, Cozy loden wool was also worked for ular note. Boxy were set against adventurous use of new fabrics, control including the bright hot pink of a V-neck a chic coat with a round , while the flirty lace separates or no bottoms at dress, and bold print combinations, as denim of a minimal suit injected a fresh, all. Bönström updated the classic white shown on tops, draped skirts and sensual contemporary touch into the lineup. T to include new sleeve treatments and dresses wrapping around the body, — A.T. cutouts, styled under masculine tailoring which mixed eye-catching flowers with like a chunky plaid coat. There were also graphic polka dots. graphic protest Ts with a positive political The — Alessandra Turra Zadig & Voltaire touchstone, made through collaboration Artistic director Cecilia Bönström made with photographer Micol Sabbadini, with Collections it a point to confirm Zadig & Voltaire’s rock sales benefiting the organization Every Yeohlee sensibility for fall. Her girls have a kind of Mother Counts. “The simpleness and New York Four models, 13 looks, nine materials and feminine strength with the confidence to nonchalance of being who you are is the the simple first level room of her headquar- channel sexiness, whether they’re wearing message I want to give out today.” eorge Chinsee Sassman and G eorge A my by P hotographs ters as show venue were all Yeohlee Teng skin-tight vinyl or slouchy white Ts over — Andrew Shang Thank you

to our clients and partners for helping us mark this exciting milestone.

We appreciate your support and look forward to many more years together.

Visit the difference at Rosenthalinc.com 16 february 13, 2018

Derek Lam Brandon Maxwell Zimmermann

The Collections New York

hammered the theme home. But here’s unapologetic embrace of traditional glam- who, living in the oppressive Victorian age, Derek Lam betting no one in the room, even those our. His customer is a high-polish kind of gal; feels herself constricted by social rules and The Four Seasons’ Pool Room at half indoctrinated into riding culture, saw the she’s never undone, and he refuses to fake finds relief and freedom in solitary rides past noon. An invitation for lunch begin- theme as commentary on male/female false edge for the runway. To that end, last on horseback. ning a full half-hour before show time so dynamics. After the show Lam said rela- season’s jeans proved a hit so they’re back Looking at the models walking on the cat- as not to delay the proceedings. Sparkling, tionships between men and women were for fall, but worn with perfectly constructed walk in languid dresses with eye-catching still or Champagne, if you pleased. The on his mind. “I tried to find something tops such as a cutaway jacket with defined draped shoulders, ruffled paired most uncivilized thing at Derek Lam’s fall inspiring about relationships, so I did the shoulders. He also showed a broadened with hunting jackets and riding pants, as show were the mozzarella sticks, served on relationship between a woman and her range of curvy knits, while sexy bodycon well as crochet frocks and tops, it was actu- a silver tray. And, damn, they were good. horse,” he said. “They always tell me it’s dresses bridged the span from day to night. ally easy to imagine them racing around on Lam dispensed with clamoring to be heard amazing because it’s about sharing power, As noted, Maxwell loves an “evening their horses in the green British country- by the masses above the fashion week din but ultimately respect.” moment,” but not all nights out call for side, their hair blowing in the wind. a while ago, downscaling his runway pro- Hmm. umpteen layers of jeweled . (Some do; The floral patterns, rendered in a sophis- duction to create a luxury experience for a Regardless of men and horses, a woman he’s got that covered.) He thus delved into ticated tonal scale of natural, chic shades, niche audience of industry professionals, should be able to enjoy a beautiful relation- after-dark sportif with chic separates: red added to the feminine appeal of the collec- which likely mirrors the way he takes care ship with Lam’s clothes. — Jessica Iredale shearling jacket over a white shirt and red tion, but Zimmermann didn’t overindulge of his clients. It’s nice work if you can get it. crystal-embroidered skirt; fluid black pants with sugar. She smartly introduced sarto- As for the collection — very nice clothes and racer-back tank with twin jeweled rial fabrics with a mannish feel — including if you can afford them. Lam does lovely Brandon Maxwell broaches, which wore with a plaid wool she used for a cape-like top American sportswear, informed by the “I always start with an emotion,” signature panache. matched with pleated pants tucked into classic but always keeping an open mind. Maxwell said backstage before his show. For his , Maxwell’s models assem- over-the-knee length — and simple, osás There’s a big bohemian — always tasteful — “This was really about going to work, bled on the Appel Room stage, smiling and pure silhouettes, such as a tunic dress sim- influence. For fall he took on both the tradi- and my customer.” Stating the obvious? applauding as he took his bow with all the ply worn with a hat, its ribbon tie wrapped tional and wild side of horse culture, mixing Shouldn’t every collection start there? women who work with him, “a Valentine” around the shoulders. well-bred equestrianism with the ranch and Maxwell explained that he finally feels of thanks to them, he said. Here, here. Zimmermann, who is expanding her processing it with modernist refinement. confident enough to trust his own instincts — Bridget Foley retail business this year with the opening There were luscious double-face pon- through the work process, and that, after of stores in Saint-Tropez, Los Angeles and chos with sporty zip-up turtleneck and a year-and-a-half of retail sales, he’s gotten San Francisco, amped up her brand’s leather yokes, a polished riff on jockey to know his customer for real rather than Zimmermann offering with a rich selection of outerwear shirts in black satin with a graphic chev- his imaginary perception of her. “I under- Take some Victorian style, mix it with pieces, including a sleek leather trench- ron pattern over tailored trousers with stand that she has more places to go than the flamboyancy of the Eighties, add a high coat with applied pockets and a range of racing stripes down the side, a cognac black-tie events,” he said. “I love an evening dose of femininity and romanticism and covetable shearling jackets, both available double-face cape over a quilted moment. But we want to evolve, and I want you’d get Nicky Zimmermann’s great fall in cropped and long versions. satin , and gorgeous tailored to grow. Now that I know the customer, I collection, probably one the best she has These not only fit into the wardrobes of houndstooth jackets. Knee-high Western know what she’s wanting. My customers do shown so far. contemporary, romantic Jane Austens, but riding boots, bucket bags big enough many different things during the day.” During a backstage interview before the also hip working city girls. to feed a stallion from, and dresses and That realization has taken Maxwell to runway show, the Australian designer said — Alessandra Turra

coats done with abstract horse silhouettes a more relaxed take on what remains his she was inspired by an imaginative girl R and A itor Lovekin Stephen G iannoni, G iovanni by P hotographs february 13, 2018 17

Zoë Jordan Gypsy Sport

Now, the clothes. Uribe limited himself Zoë Jordan to a palette of black and white, pushing his Zoë Jordan’s knitwear-based brand, design chops to work the colors in interest- which has always referenced athleticism, ing ways. There were elements of decon- is most often influenced by her personal struction that drew from his first few col- style of functionality fused with feminin- lections, like blazers with topstitching and ity; the fall season was no exception. She open panels, and hoodies held together expanded her line with , angoras with loose threads. He manipulated fabrics Jenny and superb color-washed denim for fall. with a sense of distortion and drama, Packham Angora sweaters, new for the brand, were namely a billowy comprised of mixed with silky or knit interpretations of multiple sleeves and a cutout knit top that the striped tracksuit in supercute mini- maintained great structure. Most impor- skirts, sweaters with various cutouts, knit tantly, there was an undercurrent of sub- joggers and bombers. Jordan also infused versive provocation. Perhaps the opening a few pieces of utilitarian, shell wire drew from his Nineties inspiration jackets that nodded to mountaineering and and Janet Jackson. Patchwork micro skirts rock climbing apparel into the collection. and doilies accenting the crotch were more Totally cool and approachable knits were covered-up offerings, while new takes on meant to be thrown on in layers; she chain mail came in the form of cut-up soda also introduced patchwork knits into the cans meant to allure. Powerful, charged lineup, with wonderful results: one in gray- and unrestrained, this was a collection that scale with intertwined athletic cording, inspired. — Andrew Shang an additional two of tie-dyed mint greens, lilacs and pinks mixed graphic blacks, whites and reds. — Emily Mercer Jenny Packham “It’s an intergalactic red carpet,” claimed Jenny Packham of her super Gypsy Sport shimmery and celestial fall collection. Absolute freedom, total creativity, A combination of “Blade Runner,” sci-fi uninhibited self-expression. It’s what and spacey, celestial elements influenced you expect from designer Rio Uribe, and Packham’s signature embellished . it’s what you got for fall. There were no Crescent moons, tiny star jewels and orb- guidelines to inform the distinctly off-kil- shaped embellishments were scattered ter, homespun nature of the clothing, no throughout, like on a black tulle gown and qualms about censorship — hello, boobies! matching cape that depicted the cosmos — or what’s appropriate for the runway. wonderfully. From an iridescent blue The designer is a champion for the disen- liquid ballgown to an all-sequin franchised. Here, he highlighted difference maroon dress that had an ombré appeal with audacious gender-unconcerned dress while channeling the “Blade Runner” that had underground, street-leaning incli- aesthetic, the frocks were glamorous and nations. For Uribe, weird was implicitly beautiful. Packham also noted her expan- cool; normal, even. “It’s kind of the oppo- sion of black dresses, as requested by her site of what’s happening in politics and the consumers. Other gowns, which ranged world in general,” he noted post-show. from zero shine — a sleek maroon wrap Was it the most easily digestible col- dress — to hints of shine via embellished lection? No, but the goal was to provoke, long sleeves, to full-blown all-over sequin not to show pretty clothes; to note, his party dresses, provided ample options for commercial offering includes the “perfect” the Packham girl. versions of runway pieces. The authen- Entering her 30th year of business, an ticity in the diverse casting helped bring impressive feat, Packham noted that she the message to life. I don’t know what the plans to return to the catwalk during Sep- models were told backstage before the tember’s . show, but I imagine it was something along — E.M. the lines of “be yourself, strut your game.” 18 february 13, 2018

She admitted that, to an extent, follower Fashion Grapples count matters when it comes to inking the top echelon of brand deals, but not as With Fake Followers much as it once did. With the emergence continued from page 1 of the brand builder versus sales converter distinction, many brands want to work in the 10 major countries be in her top 10 with a top influencer (whether they’ve follower cities. It was impossible,” Baben- purchased followers or not, or in Hewitt’s zien said. “I don’t know if they paid for fol- case, even if she doesn’t have the mil- lowers or if they are bots, but there wasn’t lion-plus follower count her contemporar- the alignment she had in followers from the ies do) “because of that person,” she said. cities that she was allegedly popular in.” Sometimes it’s less about the sales or other He declined to name the influencer, metrics and more that a brand just wants to but told WWD that negotiations were well associate with a particular influencer. under way with the person, who would “There are people really good for brand design a capsule collection of women’s awareness that maybe have a ton of follow- footwear for the direct-to-consumer ers but the exchange isn’t high, and there sneaker brand, which to date has mainly are smaller influencers who push a lot of focused on the men’s sector. sales,” Hewitt said. “There are personalities The above instance, which could have people want to partner with and that’s OK. cost the business hundreds of thousands of I don’t think there’s anything wrong with dollars, wasn’t Babenzien’s first brush with that. They just have to know their goals dishonest content creators. going into it.” “Many lie, from the biggest celebrities Benefit Cosmetics has made some in the world to a micro-influencer with of the most significant investments in 10,000 followers,” said Babenzien. “It’s just influencers across the entire beauty become part of the norm.” industry — including spending a reported Influencer marketing has become a $10 million on influencer initiatives to multimillion-dollar investment for fash- support its BadGal Bang Volumizing Mas- ion, beauty and retail brands, with sizable cara launch this month. portions of their advertising budgets now Encouraged by positive ROIs from past dedicated to elaborate activations and influencer programs (as well as being paying content creators. But the closer the armed with a host of new tools that help to industry looks at influencers and their fol- sniff out frauds), the LVMH Moët Hennessy lowers, the more it doesn’t look like what -owned brand has a no-toler- it seems: in many cases, inflated follower ance policy when it comes to fakes. counts that result in campaigns yield little “If Benefit gets credible info on an return on investment. influencer with a lot of fake followers, we The fashion and beauty industries — as simply stop working with them,” Toto well marketing firms, public relations Haba, senior vice president global digital at agencies and influencers who have come Benefit, told WWD. by their followings honestly — are up in Asked how Benefit identifies fake arms about the matter, which they claim followers, the executive pointed to a few Ryan Babenzien, is tantamount to stealing from the brands paid tools that can estimate the percent founder of paying them based on false information. Greats, which of fake followers on an account, including Unfortunately, many firms discover this has had to deal InfluencerDB, SocialBakers, Social Audit too late and only after shilling out tens or with influencers’ Pro and SocialBlade. even hundreds of thousands of dollars. Or fake followers “Every media channel has some level of even worse, many are worried that dis- on social media. fraud that marketers must manage [and] honest content creators and bloggers will tolerate. Whether it’s inflated impres- ruin it for the rest of the group by giving more money tomorrow. Additionally, an with low scores. But on the rare occasion sion numbers from nonviewable ads or influencer marketing a bad rap. This means “everyone-else-is-doing-it-too” attitude that a fashion or beauty company knows bots driving up search clicks, Benefit is that brands, disappointed when campaigns pervades influencers, many of whom think someone bought followers and still wants constantly trying to optimize our spend underperform because influencers fail to it’s become the norm to add a little padding to work with them, Nord will just take the versus what drives business results. With generate the traction that someone with a to their follower counts. information and use it to negotiate better that greater context, Benefit continues to following of their size is expected to, will At Fohr Card, Nord’s team built a terms. An example: if Fohr Card has proof see good ROI from working with influenc- begin to tighten their belts. Follower Health tool to monitor the that 30 percent of a content creator’s fol- ers,” Haba said. “If a brand works with five influencers situation and help brands partner with lowing isn’t real, then the brand will offer He estimated that the brand only engages and three have large fake followings, then influencers with authentic followings. to pay 30 percent less than that individu- with roughly 10 percent of the people the brand isn’t going to get the ROI and Participating influencers get a Follower al’s standard fee. posting about Benefit so there are “more they’ll think influencer marketing doesn’t Health score that determines the “health” Not everyone is guilty of augment- than enough” alternative influencers to work. For influencers, that’s such a dan- of users following them, inclusive of bots, ing their followings, though. Nord cited choose from. Additionally, the brand tends gerous thing. The idea that influencer mar- accounts that “look more like real people” Wendy Nguyen of Wendy’s Lookbook and to only partner with influencers who have a keting isn’t valuable is probably the single and non-bought followers who follow so Marianna Hewitt as two influencers with deep knowledge of beauty and not random biggest threat to the industry,” said James many people that even if they do follow “nearly perfect” Follower Health scores. “Instagram models” (which there appear to Nord, cofounder and chief executive officer the influencer, there’s a small likelihood Hewitt, even though she’s considered a be no shortage of on the platform). of Fohr Card, a digital agency that works they’ll ever see that content because of top beauty influencer, still has yet to reach “Assessing their skill level is pretty easy. with influencers and brands predominantly Instagram’s algorithms. one million followers. She has 782,000 — It’s hard to fake makeup knowledge,” he in the fashion, beauty and lifestyle spaces. “That’s why we call it Follower Health, and she’s very comfortable with that. added. He acknowledged that the foundational because without bank statements, “I’m so confident in the platform I built It’s also easy to assess if an influencer has economics of the entire industry are based without actual proof, we can’t prove that and the audience I have but I can see how the real, engaged following they say they on followers and engagement — both of they’ve actually purchased these follow- someone would easily fall into this trap...A do, according to Haba. All one has to do is which have become easy to purchase. ers. We just know their following is made while ago there was the pressure of having monitor how much engagement an influ- And the fact that content creators are up of accounts not very likely to see their to hit certain numbers, but it’s definitely encer post gets, and as a result measure paid based on certain thresholds makes it content, so it’s not a very healthy follow- something I don’t feel pressured about — how much conversation your brands gets all the more tempting to buy a following. ing,” he noted. which is another reason I’m fine growing at because of said post. If this content creator If someone tacks on 10,000 or 50,000 Today the majority of Fohr Card’s the rate I grow,” said Hewitt, who insisted is able to get people liking, talking and more followers it means they can make clients no longer work with influencers that she has never bought any followers. engaging with your own brand channels (in addition to their own), it’s likely followers The New York Attorney are authentic. If there’s no lift in these met- General’s office rics, there’s a high chance that followers tweeted that it will are fake or bots. investigate Devumi, an American company It’s not just the brands that are in an that allegedly uproar, though. Marketing and public rela- sold fake retweets tions firms are also feeling the heat. and followers. Managing influencer relationships and facilitating blogger brand deals have become key services that agencies today must offer — with many clients prioritizing digital over the traditional press placements once considered the holy grail. But the fake followers issue has added another layer of

pressure. Agencies, now tasked ► E ricksen Kyle by Babenzien photograph PRESENTED BY: SMALLER WORLD, BIGGER OPPORTUNITIES Adyen’s president of North America says there are challenges, but knowing market nuances is key to success – especially from a payments perspective.

he surge in online actually accept payment? You need a identify their unmet needs, and meet marketplaces, coupled more globally enabled hand-held device those demands. If we are trying to lure in with changes to the to accept payments. We are helping a global customer like a Netflix, we have traditional retail retailers take payments across different to figure out their pain points and needs. model, is serving up channels, online, in stores and in pop-ups unique opportunities as a way to target various demographics. WWD Studios: In what way does Adyen for retailers and brands differentiate itself in the market? Tto increase their global reach. When WWD Studios: What should be the key KZ: There are a few different dimensions. deploying global online approaches in components of a business strategy or One is that we are global. We’re offering new markets, including China, U.S. model as a company begins to increase about 200 payment methods across var- retailers are finding consumers eager for its global footprint? ious currencies. We have people on the brands that are unavailable locally. KZ: To successfully expand internationally, ground in offices around the world. For the fashion apparel, accessories, it is really important to understand global Secondly, we offer an omnichannel or beauty and luxury brands themselves, a audiences. When we talk about China, it unified-commerce solution, so we can direct-to-consumer approach on a global is about the high end and luxury offerings. instantly support e-commerce, mobile scale is almost mandatory given the But the way they pay for products is also and POS. No one else does that. Thirdly, changes in the U.S. retail market, which Global payment options differ. different and needs to be considered. I there is market function pride. We are is overstored, and experiencing a correc- think as you’re expanding, you have to simply more modern than some of the tion that involves closing units. think of inventory and delivery, and where traditional providers for enterprise But although the world is seemingly pers want to use other options. you want your storefront. But you also customers. At Adyen, we are able to scale shrinking due to evolving e-commerce People in Germany want to pay with have to think about how to get all these much faster, and launch new features, capabilities, and cross-border fintech their bank account. In Brazil, a lot of people to pay, because they may not use updates and security measures quickly. options, a strategic plan is still essential, people use Boleto, which is like an invoice American Express, Visa or Mastercard. Lastly, our culture sets us apart. We notes Kamran Zaki, president, North to pay. Some online purchases require The other part is omnichannel, where get feedback from our customers and take America, of financial solutions provider shoppers to go to a bank or a corner store you divide everything into different a consultative approach in regard to our Adyen. and pay a tax for that item. It is import- channels. It’s important to know that partnerships. This is what seems to really Here, Zaki discusses the challenges ant for retailers to understand buyer and people are used to the “instant experi- resonate with our prospective customers, and opportunities that exist in the fash- shopper preferences, and to be able to ence” of Amazon, so it requires targeting and where they say we stand out from ion apparel space today, and gives some cater to them. multiple demographics. others in the industry. insights from a fintech perspective. Also, when a shopper is buying in a WWD Studios: As a company begins physical store, or on a mobile app or a WWD Studios: More consumers are to scale globally, what are the key website, how do you allow them to see shopping across borders. What does that elements to note regarding brand mes- their purchases? How do you make it mean for retailers and brands? saging? Millennials and Generation Z seamless? This is a problem for many leg- Kamran Zaki: Today, the world is getting are still looking to shop locally, but not acy payment providers. Retailers must smaller. I think everyone is more global necessarily right in their home town, than ever before. In particular, online so it may be a small shop elsewhere. WWD Studios: As retailers and brands understand marketplaces such as eBay and Amazon KZ: In those cases, social media and the scale globally, and strategically, what are seeing an increase in the amount of various messaging platforms are really should they avoid? cross-border shopping. critical. That could be Facebook or KZ: You have to be careful not to shopper’s It’s becoming relevant to understand Instagram, or WhatsApp in an emerging overreach. Adyen started in Amsterdam how buyers or shoppers in different cit- market. But you have to make it seamless and our founders are Dutch. But we preferences ies or regions prefer to pay. In the U.S. for the consumer to shop on those sites. have expanded globally. We try to take a KAMRAN ZAKI, there is a preference for using credit and Another trend we’re seeing is brands pragmatic approach, and we say we have ADYEN debit cards, but as you look around the catering to younger [demographics] by a large installed customer base. But we world, you see that convenience shop- opening pop-up stores. But how do you have to recognize what they want to do,

Shoppers waiting to enter Ullame eos et quibusti sum Ullame eos et quibusti sum the new UllameAmazon Goeos Shop. et quibusti sum 20 february 13, 2018

with identifying which individuals have become epidemic. authentic followings, must take time away That’s why, in the battle of the bots, from strategizing and executing commu- social media companies are fusing artificial nications strategy to pore over data and intelligence with human-powered efforts. metrics for what sometimes could amount Think of it as fighting fire with fire. to hundreds of potential influencer candi- Like any tool, AI bots aren’t inherently dates. Publicists are now just as culpable bad. Businesses use autonomous software as the brands they represent in sniffing to great benefit, whether generating con- out the fakes. tent or chatting with customers in mes- Alison Brod Marketing and Communica- saging apps. Retailers, brands and others tions founder Alison Brod said the agency turn to bots for everything from customer is taking action by working with talent service to product recommendations and that allows her team to use tools to evalu- styling services. But in the wild west of the ate their followings — no matter what size Internet, where social influence can rake in their followings are. Those with nothing millions of dollars and even sway elections, to hide typically have no problem letting the scourge of fake followers can have a potential client, brand or agency take companies blowing big bucks without the Benefit sent 32 a deeper dive into their follower metrics commensurate reach to show for it. influencers to the (Fohr Card’s Nord confirmed this), but it’s The effect on brands and public per- Amangiri resort in Utah not always that easy. ception isn’t the only impact of the bot as part of the launch of “Being paid by a brand based on fakes onslaught. The noise can bury rising stars Badgal Bang! is the equivalent of getting into medical with genuine fans. Volumizing Mascara. school after cheating on every test. It is “The only difference between a like doping to win the Olympics,” said micro-influencer and a macro is reach,” “Assessing [an alternative Brod, who called it “cheating” and “steal- said writer Lisa Jean-Francois, whose ing” to be paid for posts based on fake content on fashion, beauty and lifestyle influencer’s] skill level is pretty easy. It’s hard follower counts. has drawn 30,000 followers. Unfortunately, detecting fakes on social “The problem, of course, is that to fake makeup knowledge.” media is hard, and even though there are would-be influencers have learned that — Toto Haba, Benefit tools, inauthentic content creators keep brands seem to be less interested in the finding ways to game the system. Also, quality of the content [than] the popular- sometimes the only way to obtain compre- ity of said influencer. So these would-be hensive data is via the influencers them- influencers have figured out a way to game underway, most recently by the attorney number to 20,000 over the next year. selves, who must give brands and data or the system: They buy bot accounts so they general in New York. “In many places, we’re doubling or more marketing firms permission and access to appear to have the reach of a macro influ- Twitter is at the heart of the Devumi our engineering efforts focused on secu- analyze their metrics. If someone doesn’t encer,” she added. matter, as well as congressional inquiries rity,” said a Facebook representative. “And want to give this information, it’s hard to And there’s no shortage of purveyors into social’s role in the 2016 presidential we’re also building new AI to detect bad definitively come to a conclusion about selling fakes. election. Now it seems to be taking a sur- content and bad actors — just like we’ve one’s following. Plus, the process is time brought the issue to gical approach. After the micro-messaging done with terrorist propaganda.” consuming, considering the thousands of the forefront in an exposé late last month platform tweeted that it would target com- According to the Facebook official, secu- influencers out there today. that called out Devumi, a company that panies like Devumi, millions of presumably rity systems run in the background millions For a given account, an intrepid investi- sells Twitter followers and engagement. fake followers disappeared. of times per second to find and remove gator may pluck a popular post, down Devumi allegedly took in millions of dollars It also suspended accounts linked threats before they see the light of day. into who liked or commented, and evaluate for selling retweets and phony Twitter specifically to Russian propaganda efforts, In 2014, singer shed 3.5 the users for authenticity or fakery. Now followers, some of whom pose as real peo- like that of the Internet Research Agency, a million Instagram followers when the multiply that by billions of shares across ple. Devumi bots have been found among group tied to the Russian government. And Facebook-owned business booted phony hundreds of millions of accounts, and the followers of celebrities like model Kathy the company expanded e-mail notifica- accounts. The fine line between blocking task’s complexity starts to come into focus. Ireland and even Twitter board member tions to Americans who engaged with such fakes and impeding real users snapped Manual methods can’t cover the breadth, Martha Lane Fox. The company denies any accounts during the election period, going into focus in January, when Insta influ- scope and velocity of a problem that has knowledge of this, but investigations are from 677,775 to roughly 1.4 million people. encers and marketers expressed con- The sweat equity in policing networks cerns about the company limiting posts like Twitter, which has about 328 million — initially to just 10 percent of a user’s users worldwide, looks overwhelming. followers — before distributing to the rest Research from the University of Southern based on performance. An Instagram and Indiana University estimated spokesperson denied it, saying that “no that bots made up to 15 percent of its content posted by an account is ever userbase last year. In other words, at least hidden from the feeds of those who follow 30 million fake accounts may have been that account.” But such moves seem feasi- swamping the platform. ble in these bot-crazed times. Following the election, Twitter intro- Snapchat sidesteps many of these duced an Information Quality initiative. issues, thanks to the ephemeral nature “We detect and block approximately of its posts. In other words, the payoff 523,000 suspicious logins daily for being of spamming, using fake accounts or generated through automation,” the circulating pics via bots isn’t worth the company wrote on its blog. “In December effort, not when all content — legitimate 2017, our systems identified and challenged or not — self-destructs in a day by default. more than 6.4 million suspicious accounts Still, its Abuse Engineering team focuses globally per week — a 60 percent increase on “hardening” the app against malicious in our detection rate from October 2017.” actors. The work is similar to that of finan- If the tactics seem vague, that’s by cial apps and banks, making Snapchat design. The company wants to be trans- “very difficult to reverse engineer,” a parent, said a Twitter spokeswoman, but spokeswoman for Snap Inc. said. “we do have to be careful to not inadver- For Jean-Francois, fixes for the fake-fol- tently reveal details of our antiautomation lower problem can’t come soon enough. measures that would help bad actors evade But they may not change her decision to our policies.” Its blog mentioned a few leave the business and turn her fashion and techniques, such as enhanced phone veri- beauty focus into a hobby. fication and authentication challenges, like On one hand, she understands why ReCaptchas. Twitter also targets “malicious brands flock to influencers with big audi- automation” signaled by nearly instant ences. But on the other, she also blames replies, patterns or nonrandom tweet them for creating the situation. “The fact timing, and coordinated engagement, the that quality of content comes second to company wrote. popularity is a huge problem,” she said. “I Facebook uses both automated and man- have had some wonderful opportunities, ual systems to block fraudulent accounts and I hope to have more, but only if I can on its 1.4 billion-user network, as well as be respected as a professional, regardless on Instagram. In earnings calls following of my following count. Facebook’s congressional testimony, chief “Unfortunately, I just don’t think this executive officer Mark Zuckerberg pledged particular industry allows for that any- more resources to battle fake news and more,” she added. “There may be some Writer and fashion/ protect the network. The company now exceptions to this rule, but soon it will beauty content creator has about 10,000 people working on safety become a standard, and I need to get out Lisa Jean-Francois.

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Like New York is to street style, Fashion Island is the muse is located along the Pacific Coast are presented as exclusive bungalows Highway of Newport Coast. and villas while the pool is modeled after for Newport Beach’s Owner Javier Sosa, opened his name- the Coliseum in Rome (it’s also one of 7+ sake restaurant in 1995 in Laguna Beach the world’s largest circular pools). effortlessly chic before relocating to the Crystal Cove Coupled with a premier Golf Club, Million Annual Shopping Center in February 2008. With Five-Star spa, bevy of shops and ocean- Visitors style that’s coveted an intimate private dining room, al fresco view restaurants, Pelican Hill is a virtual patios and a exquisite bar surrounded by oasis that is not only a top tourism must- the world over.” one of the West Coast’s largest selections stay, but also a home away from home Tanya Thomas of the world’s finest tequilas, Javier’s pres- for Newport Beach locals. ents a rich heritage of elevated Mexican Vice President & General cuisine in a friendly, captivating ambiance. SOCAL STYLE Manager, Fashion Island The restaurant-inspired Mexican special- ties are created with the highest quality MUST SEE: FILM FESTIVAL The Balboa Bay Resort strikes features a prized menu and extensive beer seafood, beef, pork and chicken and Celebrated as one of the leading the right notes for those look- on tap selection that is inspired by a love includes gourmet vegetarian offerings. lifestyle film festivals in the United ing to unwind. of travel, great food, and better . “When we opened (the first restau- States, the Newport Beach Film Fes- Head Chef Joel Harrington whips up rant) in Newport Beach, I wanted to tival seeks to showcase in Orange Nestled right at the heart of Newport culinary masterpieces in an interior space grow and become the best restaurant,” Beach, Balboa Bay Resort is the only County the best of classic and con- with a multitude of unique qualities, Sosa said. “But I never thought, myself, harborfront resort in all of Newport temporary filmmaking from around including tables all carved from the same to be where we are.” Beach. With the perfect balance of luxu- the world. Committed to enlighten- downed tree, donated Dirigold flatware ry, comfort and style, Balboa Bay offers ing the public with a first-class inter- from the 1960s, and furniture featuring the quintessential Southern California fabrics hand-woven in Mexico. WHERE TO STAY national film program, a forum for lifestyle experience. cultural understanding and enriching Right off the lobby area, there is a educational opportunities, the NBFF waterfront dock where you can “yacht IT’S THE VIBE PARADISE focuses on showcasing a diverse col- ” while enjoying a glass of the lection of studio and independent finest chilled wine. Specializing in elevated FOUND films from around the globe. The resort radiates a modern and Mexican cuisine, Javier’s has Gregg Schwenk, executive sophisticated elegance with a timeless a captivating ambiance that A favorite of tourists and locals director and chief executive officer style that is hard to match and compel- alike, Pelican Hill is the crown of the Newport Beach Film Festival, ling for guests while also featuring an in- sets the tone for fine drinking said the event “is proud to be one timate, casual and classy atmosphere that and dining. jewel of Newport Beach. of the top luxury lifestyle festivals embodies the Newport Beach lifestyle. If you were to ask any of the Newport Pelican Hill sits atop the iconic Crystal in the nation. We are constantly Modern luxury with a casual yet Beach locals what THE spot to eat, Cove State Park (of Beaches movie fame) leading in the areas of film, fashion sophisticated flair also comes to mind, see, and be seen is in the area, the re- and serves as a true sanctuary of beauty and culinary trends.” as the resort is the perfect place for sponse would be simple: Javier’s, which and sophistication. The resort’s rooms business as well as pleasure.

The Iconic Coliseum Pool Transcends Time at Pelican Hill.

Held each April, the festival is a celebration of cinematic art. february 13, 2018 31

eye Olympic Gold Medalist Jamie Anderson Talks Olympics and How Fear Is Healthy ● Having struck gold in they added it in 2014, I was right in my the conditions, how you’re feeling, the made. There is a red, white and blue flag prime. It was such a privilege when they technicality of it — making sure you land. that is kind of subtle, not too in-your-face. slopestyle in 2014 and added it.” Obviously, the conditions can be a little Good fit, good quality, it feels nice. 2018, Anderson is the first Off the slopes, Anderson designs snow- rugged. I know I’m capable of doing all WWD: Have you met Ralph? American to win two gold boards with GNU and goggles, outerwear these things, but of course sometimes I’m J.A.: I’m dying to meet him and his and activewear with Oakley. For added afraid. I don’t like to do stuff when I’m in wife, hear their story and how they built medals in snowboarding. positivity, “Live for the Moment” is that state of mind. So I’ll take a step back, that establishment. It’s so amazing. [Her By Rosemary Feitelberg printed on one of her snowboards. A line be patient and wait for the feeling to be agent offered: She got a handwritten of journals, earrings, hair gems and cool right, not forcing it. Of course, I also want letter from him. He writes all of the new As the first American woman to win accessories are also part of her game plan. to work hard. It’s a good kind of ebb and athletes a personal letter welcoming them two gold medals in snowboarding, Jamie She wants to create gemstone-adorned flow. Fear is healthy. You don’t want to to the team. Apparently, he is a huge Anderson has her eye on one more before beanies made with alpaca from her moth- not be afraid of anything. But I also don’t fan of the Olympics and that’s how the the Olympic flame is extinguished in er’s alpaca farm in Vermont to benefit a want to overpower my capability of what partnership started. It’s cool because he’s Pyeongchang. charity. But riding is still her main focus. I can do. very hands-on. He goes through every Having defended her slopestyle title “In these last three years, there just has WWD: Do you do a lot of trampoline single picture of the athletes and picks from the Winter Games in Sochi, the been an insane progression in women’s training? the ones out that he wants to use for the 27-year-old will be cooling her heels until snowboarding, which is incredibly fun to J.A.: Some. Last year the U.S. team campaign.] the big-air competition — a new sport be part of. All these amazing women, who invested in a big air bag that riders could WWD: Did you study design? for the Winter Games — on Feb. 21. A are beautiful and grounded, are doing hit after taking a 60-foot jump. It is kind J.A.: No, when we were kids, we would caballerial (cab) double 900, a frontside tricks that men were doing just a couple of like a -’N-Slide thing so it’s the always make stuff by , crocheting 1080 and a cab 1080 (requiring three full of years ago,” she said. “There used to perfect area to try the tricks. You feel safe beanies or making beads. I have five sis- rotations) are some of her bigger tricks, be a little controversy with the industry that you’re going to land and can find ters. We were pretty crafty. With Billa- but non-Olympic viewers may recognize almost not supporting women riding, yourself in the air. Then you move it to bong, I had my own line of streetwear and the blonde-haired Californian as one of because it stayed pretty low level. Now, snow and learn how to make it work. outerwear for five years. The outerwear the Team USA athletes in the Polo Ralph it’s like girls are showing guys up. There WWD: What is a typical day? was some of their best-selling pieces. I Lauren ads. are a lot of girls who could actually com- J.A.: As a kid, I’d be on the mountain was able to put a little personal flair into Arriving at WWD’s offices last sum- pete with the men and do well.” from 9-to-4. Now I train six to eight hours functional snow clothes. You could feel a mer for an interview direct from the WWD: How fast do you go? a day — gym, yoga and snowboarding. I little more feminine and “stylie” on the airport, Anderson had one request — a Jamie Anderson: Pret-ty fast. We’re might go for a bike ride. I like to do other mountain as opposed to when I grew up, quick change of clothes. On the road for going 50 mph at some points from 70-foot fun activities like slack-lining where you it was mostly boys’ clothes — really big and eight to nine months a year, she knows jumps. Some are a little smaller so you balance like you’re on a tightrope. That’s baggy. Now that this is my second Olym- how to control her comfort level on the can go slower. Also, it depends on the gotten very popular in the last few years pics, it would be really fun to go to school ground or soaring through in the air. pitch. Sometimes a run is a little flat. especially in mountain towns. It’s really and just learn more. It’s hard for me with Raised outside of Tahoe as one of eight Sometimes it’s really steep, so you have good for your whole body, core and men- clothing because I work pretty closely with children, Anderson started pitching to kill a little speed to make yourself slow tal balancing. Also, you’re out with your Ralph Lauren and Oakley. But I would love sponsors at the age of 10 with the help of down with little turns so you don’t go too friends hanging out in the trees. You can to do my own label of clothing. two of her snowboarding sisters (one of fast. It’s a really fun way of working with set it up however high you want. I usually WWD: Why do you think women are whom medaled at the X Games.) “My gravity. “Tranny-finding” is what we call set it just below my chest but some people catching up to men in snowboarding? home mountain, Sierra, was my spon- it because you want to land on perfect do it across huge mountains with har- J.A.: It’s the time for women — women sor because we couldn’t afford all the transition. Versus hitting a jump landing nesses on. But I’m very scared of exposed empowerment. We’re just tapping into equipment. We obviously weren’t making on the knuckle — that hurts. You want to heights like that. our power and not letting fear and money, but they gave us everything we land on the graceful downhill because WWD: What do you think of the limitations hold us back. We’re realizing needed to go snowboarding, which at 10 that’s super gentle and feels so fun. 2018 uniforms? that we’re all capable of whatever we set years old felt like Christmas,” she said. “I WWD: What’s the greatest challenge J.A.: They are super fun and they have our minds to. Of course, physically we’re kept pursuing it and chose to be home- about what you do? them made all in the U.S. Sometimes they different but there is still a lot more that schooled throughout high school. From 13 J.A.: I would say the fear — overcom- are a little different. In the last Olympics, we’re able to do. Right after the last Olym- on, I went to my first X Games and at 15, ing the challenges of the consequences. the pants didn’t have zippers because pics I was just feeling really inspired and I got my first actual sponsors. Back then There is a lot of high risk. You have to be there isn’t any zipper manufacturing in wanted to learn the really big new tricks slopestyle wasn’t an Olympic event. When very conscious and trust your intuition, the U.S. They wanted to have it all U.S. that no one had ever done. I think that was a big push for a lot of other girls. Jamie Anderson WWD: What do you like to wear after her gold when you’re not snowboarding? medal-winning J.A.: If I’m going out to a show, I wear run at the Winter Games in some fun, funky clothes — wraps, , South Korea. dresses, cool wedges, different hats or cool earrings. I’m a little bit bohemian, but kind of New Age-y, not too over- the-top. I love shopping for different brands to see what resonates. I really like shopping in Canada, Vancouver and at yoga and music festivals that have a lot of one-of-a-kind stuff. WWD: How did you get started? J.A.: I grew up right outside of Tahoe. My dad was a big skier and snowmo- biler. From the age of five, we would go tobogganing. I got a snowboard when I was nine. I just loved it. I was like, “Wow, it’s like a sled, pretty much surfing on the mountain.” WWD: Why did you start your foundation? J.A.: It is such a privileged sport even kids in my own community never had - EFE / RE X/Shutterstock the opportunity to go snowboarding. My home mountain gives lift tickets or passes if the kids continue to get straight As. I get to work with all of my snowboarder friends. I say, “Give me your hand-me- azry I smail/ EPA downs.” We all have so much equipment. I’ll give them to the kids, who need it. It’s fun to kind of spread the love to the next

generation of shredders. F by P hotograph t You’re I n v i t e d

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Hailey Baldwin, Pat Cleveland at Naomi and Alan Faena’s Campbell at Virgil Abloh at the cocktail party. Off-White. Off-White c/o Jimmy Choo collection party.

Off-White Channels Princess Diana and a Party With Faena On Sunday night, Virgil Abloh and Sandra Choi hosted a dinner Five Minutes for the Off-White and Jimmy Choo collaboration, while Alan Faena With Offset hosted a laid-back cocktail party at his Chelsea apartment. The Migos member reveals his By Kristen Tauer and Leigh Nordstrom fashion hero, the one thing he never leaves the house without and how Virgil Abloh knows how to draw he continued. “I was working on of the hospitality figure would he and Cardi B complement each a crowd. Based on the enthusi- this collection that was a tribute lead one to believe he might’ve others’ style. asm with which Kendall Jenner to Princess Diana and [Jimmy welcomed guests in his signature and greeted the Choo] was a shoemaker that all-white ensemble and white hat, After playing Philipp Plein’s show on Satur- low-key designer Sunday night was making for her. And I but alas; for the evening at home, day night, Migos’ Offset headed to SoHo on at his dinner at the Taglialatella thought it could have been a cool he wore no shoes, tiger-print skin- Sunday afternoon to watch fellow Atlanta .com Kaia Gerber Galleries for the Off-White and way to relate the product and the ny pants, a ( up) with a native Rich the Kid perform at Plein’s pop-up. at Off-White. at Off-White. Jimmy Choo collaboration, one narrative of Princess Diana to a underneath. Offset spent most of fall fashion week can assume they showed up younger audience.” “That’s always my goal in by fiancée Cardi B’s side as she made her on their own pro-bono volition. Kith, Vlone, Moncler, Nike, Vans, everything that I do: for people grand debut, but this time around, he’s lying Even Bella Hadid made it out, Levi’s, Ssense, Jennifer Fisher, Ikea to feel. To go back to them. To go low show-wise while Cardi continues to make pulling a chair up to Abloh at the and now Jimmy Choo — how does back to their roots and enjoy,” headlines in the front row — even though she long white lacquer dinner table the designer and DJ (who relin- Faena continued of his objective isn’t doing press. just in time for dessert and the quished duties during the dinner for the evening. Guests includ- WWD caught up with Offset at the Philipp Jello shots. (Alcohol to DJ pair Simi and Haze) keep his ed Peter Dundas, Chloe Wise, Plein pop-up to talk fashion, Cardi B and jewelry. content? “I don’t know, most collaborations fresh? Devon Windsor, Ian Mellencamp, On his fashion week (so far): “The only one likely vodka,” said one of the “Just sort of have a story to tell, Jordan Barrett, Dylan Penn, Ann I did was Philipp Plein. That was amazing with Off-White c/o Jimmy Choo-cos- you know?” Abloh said. “I’m not Dexter-Jones, His Highness the spaceships, the whole vibe of the show. I tumed waitstaff.) interested in making anything that Padmanabh Singh of Jaipur, just been sitting back and supporting my wife “One thing about this project doesn’t have a reason for existing.” Mia Moretti, Juana Burga and Cardi on all the things she’s been doing.” is, I’ve been doing Jimmy Choo for Alan Faena — Argentine hotelier, more. As would’ve flown during His fashion hero: “Michael Jackson.” twentysomething years, and this real estate developer, former his desired decade, guests lit On whether he sees Atlanta as a really freed my mind,” said Jimmy fashion designer — knows a good cigarettes while perched on the fashion hub: “I see the Migos as a fashion Choo’s creative director Sandra party when he sees one. And on couch, the smell of which mixed hub. We’re very influential when it comes to Choi, surrounded by the work of Sunday night, it just so happened with the Faena Hotel’s signature fashion, urban and all the way around.” street-cool artists Space Invader, that such a party was happening scent as the night went on. On how he and Cardi B complement Shepard Fairey and Basquiat. “And in his living room. His reality, it seems, is the one another’s style: “I’m from Atlanta, she’s I said to myself, what happened Having successfully built hotel free-flowing nightlife of the from New York. I’m from the South, she’s from ffset by Madison Mc G aw/B FA by O ffset G riffin Lipson; party by Cleveland .com; to remembering why I started empires in Buenos Aires and Seventies, a concept he thinks has the North. We mix it in one bowl and when it twentysomething years ago?” Miami, Mr. Faena is now turning his vanished from New York — cer- comes out, it’s a masterpiece.” More simply put: “Creativity is attention to New York. Naturally, tainly — in His go-to date night look: “A Philipp Plein in my veins, and without it I think I’d the occasion called for a little New the time he’s been away from the sweatsuit with a puffer jacket if it’s cold die,” Choi said. York Fashion Week shindig, held in schedule. outside.” “It was an idea I had,” Abloh said his Chelsea apartment. “I like to be around fashion, I His go-to jeweler: “Elliot Avianne. I found of the unlikely brand match-up. “I’d “It’s like a real party from the like to be around creators. Being him on the Diamond District, the Treasure met Sandra [Choi] at the Bowery Seventies,” Faena said, from a in fashion week is always nice,” Chest, that’s what I call it.” Anwar Hadid hotel, and I always had this idea nook off to the side of the main he said. “For me, I think creativity The one thing he never leaves the house and Nicola Peltz within my collection to sort of living room, where the party was in happens when you’re loose. That’s without: “Cash money.” — Alexa Tietjen at Alan Faena. get more specific and story-tell,” full swing. A quick Google search why I’m here.”

Alan Faena’s cocktail party in back in November, when he independently, so it’s some- pening it all. So I’m a bit sad FA D eitch/B Samantha Bella H adid by eugère; Meet Royal his home Sunday evening drew escorted Ava Phillippe for thing I wanted to go and do,” he about that.” a usual mix of New York faces her debut at the Le Bal des said. “And where better than That said, “it’s a trade, you Padmanabh — Mia Moretti, Jordan Barrett, Débutante in Paris. No surprise, New York?” know? I was playing polo, I was Chloe Wise, etc. But new to his initial days in Manhattan Moving to New York has doing well, I was playing for my Singh of the crowd was His Highness have already been surrounded been a dream of his, though it country, I just recently played Padmanabh Singh of Jaipur, by the well-connected; over comes at a cost to his po- the world cup in Australia, I Jaipur who just moved to New York a the weekend he dined at the lo-playing career. was going on many tours... few days before to study liberal Polo Bar with the likes of Kitty “I’ve had a gap of two years and then there was one point The 19-year-old polo- arts at New York University. Spencer and the Manners of not studying, because I play where I was like you know playing royal, who “I’ve been looking for a place sisters (themselves fresh from polo professionally, so I’ve what, I want to go live in New to live, which I found finally...it’s the Bottega Veneta show on been doing that for the last two York and get a degree,” he was Ava Phillippe’s in the East Village,” Singh said, Friday). years. That’s one thing that I’m said. “And here I am. escort at Le Bal des from Faena’s kitchen. “This is “I’ve always been at boarding really trying to fix. They play a “I didn’t want to sit down Débutantes in Paris, my first . I think it’s a school or I’ve lived back home lot of polo down in Florida and and regret the fact that I never good start.” — I’ve never lived in a big city like in California, but not [in New made it work. We’ll see how it on his first night out as The 19-year-old royal was New York, or any other city, on York]...in the summer they do, works out.” a New York resident. previously in the spotlight Padmanabh Singh my own, in my own apartment, but other than that, not hap- — L.N. erber photographs by Stéphane F Stéphane by Campbell and G erber photographs A bloh, EXCLUSIVE LOOK: VISION E X P O E A S T Spotlighting the trendiest

and latest collections on the

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Fashion Scoops

Michael Kors The Art Of Collection “Sabine” The Sketch illustration by Michael Kors has teamed with David renowned fashion artist David Downton. Downton on a special capsule collection. The designs will be shown at the Michael Kors runway show at the Beaumont Theater at Wednesday at 10 a.m. The capsule will hit stores this fall. While additional details weren’t Kehinde Wiley, Barack Obama, divulged, it is believed that the illus- Michelle Obama and Amy Sherald. trations will appear on handbags. In 1966, Downton was commis- Smith said via Monday e-mail, and all kinds of wonderful things,” sioned to draw at the Paris cou- “I just arrived in Paris for work, so I Fast she said. “The fashion industry ture by a Sunday supplement and found out with everyone else. I was has changed dramatically, and to since then his illustrated reports in a shop buying jeans when my p.r. Forward not include health and fitness is from the shows have appeared in called. I started flipping out at the While a 50-year anniversary to not really understand what the such publications as Vogue, Vanity cash wrap.” usually calls for some reminiscing, fashion industry should be about Fair, Harper’s Bazaar and The New She said she was so honored Norma Kamali wants no part of it. right now.” York Times. His commercial client to “be a small part of American Looking back is counter to the A self-starter in the hood- list includes Chanel, , Tiffany history and most importantly, designer’s way of being. “I really ie-puffer coat arena, Kamali said & Co., Topshop, Joyce Hong Kong, the Obama legacy. The Obamas hate it,” she said. heath-related products have Harrods, Estée Lauder and the will be remembered for breaking Despite that tendency, Kamali staying power. “We are going V&A Museum. He has also pro- down barriers within race, gender has culled 70-plus clothing pieces further and further into a time duced portraits of some celebri- and sexual orientation. They will and accessories for What Goes where the stress level does not ties including Cate Blanchett, Dita be remembered for their humanity Around Comes Around and she get less. If you can’t personally Von Teese, Catherine Deneuve and kindness.” “appreciates that there is interest find some solace or restoration and . Smith, whose art collection in- in her previous designs.” Her that will balance you, you just “This is our first collaboration cludes work from John Baldessari, fashion past, so to speak, will be can’t make it. It’s almost like with an artist for Michael Kors but look chic,” she said. woman, with a job that she loves.” Natasha Law, Margeaux Walter showcased Tuesday in the “Vin- social media. Every time you think Collection, and it is very personal. The actress said that though Springsteen was in from and Tony Scherman, has collab- tage for the Future” event at the you’ve caught up, there are 20 David captures people’s essence she’s a dedicated sports fan, she Wellington, Fla., where she’s been orated with artist and filmmaker WGACA SoHo store and online. things that are new that you need and style without feeling the need hasn’t had much time to watch the competing in equestrian competi- Laurie Simmons (better known Kamali isn’t the only one celebrat- to know,” Kamali said. to draw every detail about them — Winter Olympics since they began tions in 85 degree heat. as Lena Dunham’s mother), and ing an anniversary, the retailer is One thing that isn’t chang- it’s the magic of a great illustrator,” on Friday. “It’s actually very nice to go graffiti artists Michael De Feo and nearing its 25th year and is eyeing ing is ownership of her West Kors said. “I’m not watching...I don’t have outside and feel a little cold,” she Peter Miser for different projects. a Madison Avenue location. 56th Street store and office. Following the show, Kors will a television, but had wanted to said of New York’s conditions. She was also high on the former WGACA cofounder Gerard After wanting to sell it “for a host an intimate dinner at JG Mel- watch. I love sports — I mean, love,” “My mom used to buy the little First Couple’s choices of artists — Maione said he first met Kamali really long time” to introduce a on to toast the collaboration. she said. knit sweaters for me and my Sherald and Kehinde Wiley. “Each 10 years ago, and the pair stayed new retail concept at another — LISA LOCKWOOD Brosnahan took time from brother with the little American has a very distinctive, personal in touch. He thought what better location, Kamali said she is now pre-production on season two of flag on them when we were kids,” style and signature to their work. time than fashion week to hold a appreciative that a deal fell her Golden Globe-winning role in she added of Lauren. “We would Their art speaks to everyone . Shoppers will find through shortly before the 2016 Talking Ralph “The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel” to wear them all around the beach. about the African-American fringed eveningwear, bomber presidential election. Now that “Relaxed” is not typically a word come out to the show, in a three- I’ve always worn the polo shirts experience. Their art and style is jackets, crop tops and other items security-related street closings floated around in the minutes piece suit ensemble. riding. They have such an equestri- so very much of our generation. mostly in the $750 to $3,500 retail due to nearby Trump Tower have before a runway show begins, “It’s me in a suit. I tried it on and I an heritage to the brand.” I wonder what people will think price range. Kamali was hesitant “calmed down,” the designer but that is how Rosie Hunting- was like, ‘I might never take this off She historically has avoided 300 years from now, gazing at to pick favorites. “I remember said, “I’ve put my focus on some ton-Whiteley described her again,’” she said. wearing equestrian-inspired these paintings in awe. The works them being favorites, when I of these other projects and I’m fashion week thus far, when asked “I grew up, first of all, very jeal- looks when out of the saddle, are way more conceptual and made them, and what the creative glad I did.” Monday morning at the Ralph ous of all of the models’ hair from but she makes an exception for forward-thinking than presidential process was,” she explained. “But In March, her new radio show Lauren show. the Ralph Lauren campaigns,” she Ralph Lauren. portraits of the past,” she said. even now when I finish collections, will start with Sirius XM and will The model joined Hilary Swank, continued. “I’ve always loved the “Now that I’m older I really The Milly founder said she has I’m separated from it and I’m not cover a range of subjects. Her Rachel Brosnahan, Jessica brand’s simplicity; it’s timeless, it’s appreciate the beautiful blazers met Michelle Obama on several connected to it anymore. While I’m Stop Objectification project will Springsteen, Katie Holmes and beautiful and feminine and strong. but when I was younger I used to occasions. “Most notably, I was doing it, I’m very connected to it.” be discussed — something she more in the front row at the It’s my favorite combination of never want to wear them because invited to the Obamas’ final party This partnership is one of first did with Sirius six years designer’s show. things. I met Ralph for the first time I’m riding in them every single day,” in the White House, which took several under way. An avid jewelry ago — as well as fitness, health, “For me, Ralph is the quint- backstage just now. He’s an icon — she said. “It’s funny because my place last January. It was the collector with Joseff of Hollywood beauty, style, fashion and entre- essential all-American brand,” it was very, very cool.” friends will come over and be like, best night of my life. No phones and Miriam Haskell being favor- preneurism. “I’ve had my own Huntington-Whiteley said. “It’s She kept mum on season two ‘Can I borrow your riding pants, were allowed inside, so everyone ites, Kamali stopped wearing jew- company without partners, since timeless, it’s elegant. Every time I spoilers, but revealed they will please?’” — LEIGH NORDSTROM let loose, was in the moment, elry years ago. She hasn’t decided 1967 so there is a lot interest in wear a piece of Ralph Lauren I feel be heading to Paris to film some and had a wonderful time. No whether she will give her stash to sharing my experience about my best.” scenes. one wanted to leave. I think Andy someone who can do something that,” Kamali said. “There are an Swank emerged from pho- “I’ve heard that Amy [Sher- A Real [Oshrin, her husband and busi- creative with it or sell it. incredible amount of fascinating tographers and briefly undid the man-Palladino, the show’s creator] ness partner] and I staggered out Kamali has also partnered with women who I love to interview.” gray Ralph Lauren coat she was has been spilling the beans a little Frame Job around 4 a.m.” an unnamed executive whom In the meantime, there is the wrapped in for the show to cool bit...I’ve heard that Amy has been Milly founder Michelle Smith was As for how it is having Mi- she has known for 20 years to WGACA event. “I think it will be down. teasing a little that Susie and first tipped that Michelle Obama chelle Obama wear one of her introduce a multicategory collec- really fun. I’m honored that they’re “‘Boys Don’t Cry’ came out in Midge will hit the road at some would be wearing one of her designs for the Sherald painting, tion “that is about fitness, health, going all-out with it,” she said. “It’s 2000, and so it’s just over the last point,” Brosnahan said. “But I dresses for an official portrait six Smith said, “This ranks top, top, beauty and style that is not just there 25th anniversary and my two decades that I’ve been wear- looking forward to watching Midge months ago. Obama’s stylist Mere- top without a doubt. Forever. But under the wellness ” in 50th being in business.” ing Mr. Lauren’s stuff,” she said. For struggle to balance her three very dith Koop had put the word out but I’m going to keep on working. I the coming months. It includes But don’t expect any other cele- her own sense of style, she tries to different conflicting worlds: her the designer had no idea Monday love to create clothes that make lifestyle products that I’ve been brations from Kamali for her silver keep it “effortless.” world as a mother and a daughter, would be the official unveiling of women feel confident, empow- researching and using for years anniversary. “Absolutely not — that’s “I like luxury, I like a cashmere, I and a housewife — question mark artists Amy Sherald’s painting at ered and beautiful.” and years. I have been developing the ultimate looking back, don’t you like to also be really comfortable — and her new world as a working the National Portrait Gallery. — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG products that have to do with skin think?” the designer said. — R.F. Memo Pad

a beer hall in Brooklyn’s Williams- “When we started The Last creative studio,” Berger explained. are excited to take our commu- A New burg, thrown in collaboration with Magazine and our agency Berger International artist manage- nity and collaborators on a new Burberry. & Wild 10 years ago they were two ment company The Wall Group, journey, and signing with the Wall Chapter Magnus Berger and Tenzin separate entities. As the media which is owned by WME/IMG, has Group, a perfect match,” Wild said. The Last Magazine is turning 10 Wild, the magazine’s cofounders landscape and the way people signed The Last Universe, along The Wall Group signed Stephen with a slew of announcements and editors in chief, are launching consume culture have evolved, we with Berger and Wild as creative Gan as a creative director earlier pegged to the publication of its The Last Universe, which will act realized that these worlds are one directors. this year. Berger will retain his 20th issue, which features model as a parent company to both the in the same. The Last Universe will “Our approach is the same position as creative director of Adwoa Aboah on the cover and magazine and to their creative be the umbrella for our new, edito- regardless if we are working on an WSJ Magazine.

ndrew H arnik/ AP / RE X/Shutterstock A ndrew by O bama photograph will be celebrated with a party at studio, Berger & Wild. rially driven, culturally integrated editorial or an ad campaign. We — Kara Bloomgarden-Smoke