Have Stealthily Built One of the Most Innovative Department Store
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Fashion. Beauty. Business. SLIM VS. AN ACTIVE PARIS, FINI SLOUCHY WORLD A look at the final OCT 2015 With a looser suit From boutique fitness days of the Paris No. 2 silhouette bubbling to the latest in textiles Collections, which up, men’s wear and Ones to Watch, a included Chanel, designers and retailers look at the booming Louis Vuitton, Miu are taking sides. activewear market. Miu and more. M Agenda, p. 32 In Focus, p. 22 Features, p. 48 THE QUIET GIANTS THE QUIET GIANTS The Nordstroms — Jamie, Pete, Erik and Blake — have stealthily built one of the most innovative department store retailers around, and they’re aiming for even bigger things. “This [the slouchy suit] is dangerous.” suit] is dangerous.” “This [the slouchy JOSEPH ABBOUD US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 Edward Nardoza EDITOR IN CHIEF Pete Born EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Bridget Foley EXECUTIVE EDITOR James Fallon The EDITOR Robb Rice GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR Features John B. Fairchild 1927 — 2015 Quiet Giants 42 MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera Erik, Pete, Blake and Jamie MANAGING EDITOR, Dianne M. Pogoda Cotton Incorporated. © 2015 Cotton Incorporated. © 2015 Cotton Incorporated. Cotton FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS Nordstrom have stealthily built EUROPEAN EDITOR Miles Socha DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR Evan Clark one of the most innovative NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood DEPUTY EDITOR, DATA AND ANALYSIS Arthur Zaczkiewicz department store retailers DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR Donna Heiderstadt SITTINGS DIRECTOR Alex Badia around, and they’re aiming for SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, Arthur Friedman TEXTILES & TRADE even bigger things. SENIOR EDITORS, FINANCIAL Arnold J. Karr, Vicki M. Young ASSOCIATE EDITOR Lorna Koski BUREAU CHIEF, LONDON Samantha Conti BUREAU CHIEF, MILAN Luisa Zargani Paris, Part Deux BUREAU CHIEF, LOS ANGELES Marcy Medina ASIAN EDITOR Amanda Kaiser 48 A look at the final days of BUREAU CHIEF, WASHINGTON Kristi Ellis SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Bobbi Queen the Paris Collections, which ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jenny B. Fine SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIALTY RETAIL Sharon Edelson included Chanel, Louis Vuitton, SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET Julie Naughton BEAUTY EDITOR SENIOR FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Jessica Iredale Miu Miu and more. ACCESSORIES MARKET DIRECTOR Roxanne Robinson FASHION MARKET DIRECTOR Mayte Allende EYE EDITORS Taylor Harris, Erik Maza MEN’S SENIOR EDITOR Jean E. Palmieri FASHION DIRECTOR Alex Badia MEN’S MARKET EDITOR Luis Campuzano MEN’S REPORTER Aria Hughes MARKET EDITORS FINANCIAL NEWS AND ANALYSIS Debra Borchardt ACCESSORIES Lauren McCarthy, Misty White Sidell BEAUTY Molly Prior DIGITAL Rachel Strugatz READY-TO-WEAR, Bobbi Queen FURS & INNERWEAR FASHION READY-TO-WEAR & SPORTSWEAR NEWS Rosemary Feitelberg MEDIA Alexandra Steigrad READY-TO-WEAR AND Kristi Garced SPORTSWEAR FASHION EYE Ally Betker, Leigh Nordstrom CORRESPONDENTS LONDON Nina Jones AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. Service Marks/Trademarks of Service Marks/Trademarks PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. COTTON AMERICA’S LONDON, EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lorelei Marfil LOS ANGELES Khanh T.L. Tran, Kari Hamanaka MILAN, FASHION AND NEWS Alessandra Turra NEW YORK, EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS William Cotto, Tara Bonet-Black, Kelsi Zimmerman Ellen Thomas NEW YORK, FASHION ASSISTANTS Andrew Shang, Ashley Davis, Kayana Cordwell PARIS, EUROPEAN BEAUTY EDITOR Jennifer Weil PARIS, SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Laurent Folcher PARIS, SENIOR BUSINESS NEWS EDITOR Joelle Diderich PARIS, GENERAL ASSIGNMENT Paulina Szmydke REPORTER, NEWS Today, cotton’s natural properties can be enhanced PARIS, EDITORIAL AND WEB ASSISTANT Anne-Aymone Gheerbrant WEB EDITOR, EUROPE Laure Guilbault SAN FRANCISCO, TECHNOLOGY Maghan McDowell through application of new technological DESIGN DEPARTMENT CREATIVE DIRECTOR Nick Mrozowski innovations that reinvent cotton as a true ART DIRECTOR Geraldson Chua SENIOR DESIGNER Christa Guerra DESIGNER Robyn Boehler performance fi ber. Through the use of Cotton DESIGNER Jewelyn Butron PHOTOGRAPHY Incorporated’s branded technologies, you’ll PHOTO DIRECTOR Ash Barhamand PHOTO EDITOR Jenna Greene ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR Katrina Brown discover cotton can be engineered to manage PHOTO STUDIO PHOTO STUDIO MANAGER Eileen Tsuji PHOTO STUDIO ASSISTANT Emily Taylor moisture as well as or better than many top- PHOTOGRAPHERS George Chinsee, Steve Eichner, Thomas Iannaccone performing synthetics. So it looks like the future is COPYDESK COPY CHIEF Maureen Morrison-Shulas COPY EDITORS Danielle Gilliard, David Podgurski, full of cotton. Maxine Wally PREPRESS PRODUCTION DIGITAL IMAGING Alex Sharfman PREPRESS ASSEMBLY David Lee Chin WWD.COM cottoninc.com SITE DIRECTOR Michelle Preli ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR Kristen Tauer DIGITAL DAILY DESIGNER Ryan Richmond WEB PRODUCER Robert Tutton SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Pooja Bhaskar MONCLER PUBLIC RELATIONS PR COORDINATOR Christina Mastroianni PHOTOGRAPH: GIOVANNI GIANNONI Contents Paul Jowdy LLC Laboratories, Clinique © SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER Pamela Firestone ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ADVERTISING INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR, Renee Moskowitz RMM MEDIA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S Brett Mitchell BEAUTY DIRECTOR Carly Gresh AMERICAN FASHION & Jennifer Petersen LUXURY DIRECTOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Samantha Hartje ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Amy Keiser Shannon Fitzgerald SENIOR CLIENT SERVICES MANAGER Joanna Block CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERS Annie Belfield Tina Schissel REGIONAL OFFICES/INTERNATIONAL OFFICES WEST COAST DIRECTOR Jill Biren +1-323-965-7283 EUROPEAN ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Giulia Squeri +39-02-722-33602 Jim Bankoff, ceo of Vox Media ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Olga Kouznetsova +39-02-722-33603 SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR, ITALY Emanuela Altimani EUROPEAN DIRECTOR, FRANCE Valérie Deschamps-Wright “I get inspiration from companies that have had +33-1-44-51-07-611 EUROPEAN SALES REPRESENTATIVE Marjorie Thomas to reinvent themselves and do things rapidly.” +33-240-31-6541 ADVERTISING ASSISTANT, FRANCE Pascale Rajac Media People, page 36 DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES MARKETING DIRECTOR Shannon Nobles CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING Cass Spencer DIGITAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Cassie Leventhal DIGITAL SALES PLANNER Suzette Minetti AUDIENCE MARKETING VP & SENIOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Ellen Dealy CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR Peggy Pyle SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Janet Menaker & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENT Agenda PLANNING & OPERATIONS DIRECTOR John Cross SENIOR DIRECTOR, Randi Segal INSTITUTIONAL SALES SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER Suzanne Berardi Fashion 8 Markets 18 SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Tamra Febesh For Bruno Magli, the path back Believe it or not, it’s actually a ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER Lauren Busch PRODUCTION to the luxury market is lit with its good time to invest in retail and heritage . Model Call. apparel stocks . Ken Seiff of PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Kevin Hurley PRODUCTION MANAGER Providence Rao Beanstalk Ventures discusses SUMMITS & EVENTS online consumer patterns and VICE PRESIDENT, NEW VENTURES & GM Amber Mundinger new technologies. EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mary Ann Bacher DIRECTOR, ATTENDEE SALES Kim Mancuso SPONSORSHIP DIRECTOR Alexis Coyle Beauty 12 Retail 20 DIRECTOR OF Amelia Ewert Meet the Honorees: Cosmetic Fashion IPOs: The splashy public EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING Executive Women will honor offering isn’t the brass ring it was FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC seven at the Waldorf this just a few years ago . How ceo’s Stephanie George week . Smell Test. say “goodbye.” PRESIDENT AND VICE CHAIRMAN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF Michael Atmore FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT FINANCE DIRECTOR Devon Beemer Accessories 16 32 DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS Ron Wilson Paris Wrapping: As the season The move from slim to slouchy wound down, there was still suits creates a conundrum for plenty of sizzle in accessories retailers . In the Spotlight: WWD AND FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC from the City of Light. Stormy Kromer . M Briefs. ARE DIVISIONS OF PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION Jay Penske CHAIRMAN & CEO Bringing the best to everything she touches. VICE CHAIRMAN Gerry Byrne EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, George Grobar STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, Paul Woolnough Lynne Greene BUSINESS AFFAIRS DEPARTMENTS SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, Craig Perreault BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT 6 Social Studies “Jem and the Holograms” — is back in all her GENERAL COUNSEL & Todd Greene From Account Executive to Group President SVP HUMAN RESOURCES The best and worst in social media, what’s bubblegum-pop glory. VICE PRESIDENT, CREATIVE Nelson Anderson trending, whom to follow. • Report Card Graded from D.C. to Hollywood, VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE Ken Delacazar to CEW Lifetime Achievement Award honoree. Cate Blanchett and Don Cheadle earn top marks, VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES Tarik West VICE PRESIDENT, ENGINEERING Gabriel Koen 22 In Focus: Activewear Trey Gowdy, not so much. DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Lauren Gullion Lynne’s legacy at The Estée Lauder Companies From boutique fitness to the latest in textiles and DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS Joni Antonacci Ones to Watch, a look at the booming activewear 64 Think Tank CONTROLLER Young Ko is impossible to overstate. Clinique. Aveda. Origins. SENIOR PROGRAM MANAGERS Christina Yeoh, market. When East Meets West: Brian Buchwald and Derek Ramsey Andrew Roth of Bomoda discuss the increasing DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Eddie Ko Ojon. Darphin. The Men’s Skincare Group. 36 Media People importance and purchasing power of the Chinese DIRECTOR OF TALENT ACQUISITION Andy Limpus Jim Bankoff, chairman and chief executive officer DIRECTOR OF IT OPERATIONS