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Wear Properties of Hemp, Ramie and Linen Fabrics After Liquid Ammonia/Crosslinking Treatment

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Wear Properties of Hemp, Ramie and Linen Fabrics After Liquid Ammonia/Crosslinking Treatment Jun Li, Jiahao Feng, Wear Properties of Hemp, Ramie and Linen *Hua Zhang, *Jianchun Zhang Fabrics after Liquid Ammonia/Crosslinking Treatment Key Laboratory of Clothing, Design & Technology, Abstract Ministry of Education, Desized and scoured hemp, ramie and linen fabrics were treated with liquid ammonia over Fashion Institute, practical ranges, followed by crosslink finishing with modified DMDHEU (Clariant Chemical Co). Appearance qualities, as well as comfort and mechanical properties were measured to in- *College of Textiles, Donghua University, vestigate the wear behavior of all-cellulosic fabrics. The crease recovery, washing shrinkage and Shanghai, China other appearance qualities of cellulosic fabrics were improved by NH3 treatment and especially E-mail: [email protected] by liquid ammonia pretreatment in conjunction with crosslink finishing. The moisture regain of the cellulosic fibers was increased by NH3 treatment, but on the other hand, water retention was decreased. The air permeability, moisture permeability and other comfort properties of the cellulosic fabrics were decreased by crosslink finishing, whereas those of NH3/crosslinked fab- rics were greater than untreated ones. As a pretreatment for crosslink finishing, liquid ammo- nia significantly improved the tensile strength retention and tear strength in cellulosic fabrics compared to crosslink finishing alone. Key words: liquid ammonia treatment, crosslink treatment, hemp, ramie, linen, fabrics, wear properties. lulosic fabrics. However, for such fabric which residual ammonia was removed by properties as shape retention and mainte- hot water. The fabrics remained taut in nance, it is difficult to satisfy consumers the warp because of the continuous oper- by NH3 treatment alone [2 - 6]. With the ation but were not stretched in the filling introduction of all-cotton no-iron shirts direction. Resin treatment was performed to the consumer market, there is renewed in a pilot plant as a continuous operation. interest in treatments that will provide An Arkofix NETM (modified DMD- the consumer with the comfort of cotton, HEU) resin (60 g/L) was applied by the the convenience and appearance of dura- conventional pad-dry-cure process using ble press, and adequate wear behaviour. catalysts NKC (18 g/L), protective agent The use of liquid ammonia treatment in HDP (High Density Polyethlene 15 g/L) conjunction with resin finish has become one focus because it not only improves and silicone fabric softeners UP (Unsatu- appearance qualities but also provides rated Polyester 25 g/L). All reagents used high strength retention to all-cellulosic in the resin treatment were provided by fabrics [7 - 11]. the Clariant Chemical Co., Ltd. In this study, the modifying effects of Measurements liquid ammonia treatment alone and in Crease recovery was measured with a conjunction with resin treatment on ap- crease recovery angle tester according to pearance qualities as well as comfort and the ISO 2313-1972 method in both the mechanical properties are discussed. warp and filling directions. The sample n Introduction was washed three times in a domestic Parallel to the development of the pro- n Experimental electric washing machine according to grade process for the liquid ammonia the AATCC-135 test method. treatment of yarns was the development Experimental materials of a process for the liquid ammonia treat- Desized and scoured hemp as well as Bending rigidity was measured accord- ment of fabrics by the Norwegian Textile ramie and linen fabrics (Table 1) were ing to the bevel method. Then the can- Research. This work was begun in 1963, treated with liquid ammonia in mass tilever bending stiffness B and bending and the necessary machinery was com- manufacturing conditions (Youngor Sun- modulus q were calculated by the follow- pleted in mid-1970 [1]. Liquid ammonia rise Textile D & F Co., Ltd, China). The ing equations [12]: treatment imparts wrinkle recovery, soft fabrics were saturated with NH3 for 2 handle and mechanical properties to cel- seconds and dried on steam cans, during B = G×(0.5L)3×10-1 in mg·cm (1) Table 1. Details of experimental materials. Experimental Yarn constitution Weave Yarn linear density, Surface mass, Warp density, Weft density, materials (warp, weft) construction tex (warp,weft) g/m2 per 10cm per 10 cm Hemp fabric 100% Hemp, 100% Hemp Plain 72, 72 183 212 212 Ramie fabric 100% Ramie, 100% Ramie Plain 72, 72 178 212 212 Linen fabric 100% Linen, 100% Linen Plain 72, 72 167 228 197 Li Jun, Feng Jiahao, Zhang Hua, Zhang Jianchun; Wear Properties of Hemp, Ramie and Linen Fabrics after Liquid Ammonia/Crosslinking Treatment. 81 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2010, Vol. 18, No. 5 (82) pp. 81-85. resin finishing agent and allows the dif- 300 Hemp Ramie Linen fusion of the cross-linker into the interior Hemp Ramie Linen 2 Dry of the fibers.Figure 1 also shows that the 250 Wet 0 wet crease recovery of cellulosic fabrics 200 is greater than that of the same sample -2 in dry conditions, indicating that hemp, 150 -4 ramie and linen fabrics have better ap- pearance retention in wet conditions. 100 shrinkage, % Washing Washing shrinkage (%) shrinkage Washing -6 crease recovery angle (degree) angle recovery crease Crease recovery angle, degree 50 -8 a b c d a b c d a b c d Figure 2 shows that resin treated fab- Warp Filling rics have good dimensional stability compared to non-resin treated fabrics. Figure 1. Crease recovery angles of (a) Figure 2. Washing shrinkage of (a) untre- Crosslinked fabrics show a less than 4% untreated, (b) NH3 treated, (c) crosslinked, ated, (b) NH3 treated, (c) crosslinked, and shrinkage in the warp and a less than 1% and (d) NH /crosslinked fabrics. (d) NH /crosslinked fabrics. 3 3 shrinkage in the filling direction. The untreated hemp and linen fabrics have around 7% shrinkage in the warp direc- 1000 240 tion and 5% shrinkage in the filling di- Hemp Ramie Linen ) 900 Hemp Ramie Linen -2 cm · 800 ) 200 rection, while the NH3 treated hemp and cm . mg ( 700 cm linen fabrics have around 5.5% washing . kg/cm2 160 600 ( shrinkage in the warp and 1% extensibil- 500 120 400 ity in the filling directions. The fabrics 300 80 were held taut in the warp direction dur- stiffness, mg stiffness, Cantilever bending 200 Bending modulus Bending 40 ing the finishing operations but were not 100 Bending modulus, kg Cantilever bending stiffness bending Cantilever 0 0 stretched in the filling direction, which a b c d a b c d is reflected in their shrinkage behaviour. As stresses were relieved in laundering, Figure 3. Cantilever bending stiffness of Figure 4. Bending modulus of (a) untre- the warp yarns held taut in the finishing (a) untreated, (b) NH3 treated, (c) crosslin- ated, (b) NH3 treated, (c) crosslinked, and operation had greater shrinkage. As for ked, and (d) NH3/crosslinked fabrics. (d) NH3/crosslinked fabrics. washing shrinkage, however, after liquid ammonia treatment, ramie fabric is dif- where G is fabric weight per unit area in water retention were obtained [13, 14]. ferent from hemp and linen fabrics. g/m2 and L is fabric slip length in cm Air permeability was measured accord- ing to the ISO 9237-1995 test method. q = 12B/t3 × 10-3 in kg/cm2 (2) Figure 3 shows the cantilever bending Moisture permeability was measured stiffness of hemp, ramie and linen fabrics by the evaporation method [15]. Tear where t is fabric thickness in mm. resulting from NH3 and resin treatments. strength was assessed according to the The cantilever bending stiffness of hemp, The fabrics were immersed in water, then ASTM D2261 test method. The breaking ramie and linen fabrics is increased by centrifuged and dried. Moisture regain and load and extensibility were assessed ac- liquid ammonia treatment, whereas it cording to the ASTM D5035 test method. is decreased by resin treatment because Table 2. Crystallinity of hemp, ramie and of softeners in the finishing agent. The linen fibers. bending modulus reflects fiber rigidity, n Results and discussion which is not affected by fabric thick- Treatment Hemp Ramie Linen Appearance qualities ness. The bending modulus is decreased Control 84.79 84.48 80.33 Figure 1 shows that liquid ammonia by NH3 treatment, except for ramie fab- NH - treatment increases wrinkle recovery ric, as shown in Figure 4. For example, 3 72.84 76.43 75.86 treated in the fabrics. The loss of moderate the bending modulus of untreated hemp to large pores is therefore associated and linen is 175.5 and 163.63 kgf/cm2, after liquid ammonia treatment - with increased resilience. These pores 12 are voids between elementary fibres or 157.10 and 128.05 kgf/cm2, and that of Hemp Ramie Linen 10 microfibrils, and their loss affects the NH3/crosslinked fabrics is 112.5 and closer lateral association between micro- 115.94 kgf/cm2, respectively. However, 8 fibrillar units, which is a natural sort of the bending modulus of untreated ramie is 6 2 2 crosslinking via lateral hydrogen bond- 121.01 kgf/cm , reaching 130.32 kgf/cm after NH treatment and 126.93 kgf/cm2 4 ing. The crease recovery angles of cel- 3 Moisture regain, % lulosic fabrics are considerably increased after NH3/crosslinked treatment. Moisture regain (%) regain Moisture 2 by crosslink finishing and especially by 0 Comfort properties a b c d NH3/crosslink finishing. With the in- creased amorphous region for larger ac- Liquid ammonia treatment not only re- cessible internal volume, liquid ammonia sults in a larger proportion of amorphous Figure 5. Moisture regain of (a) untreated, pretreatment increases the number of regions but also disorders parts of the (b) NH3 treated, (c) crosslinked, and (d) NH3/crosslinked fabrics. crosslinked bonds between the fibers and crystallite region, as shown in Table 2; 82 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2010, Vol.
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