University of Pennsylvania ScholarlyCommons Publicly Accessible Penn Dissertations 2013 Designing Women: Fashion, Fiction, and Femininity in Second Empire France Sara Frances Phenix University of Pennsylvania,
[email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://repository.upenn.edu/edissertations Part of the Other Languages, Societies, and Cultures Commons, and the Women's Studies Commons Recommended Citation Phenix, Sara Frances, "Designing Women: Fashion, Fiction, and Femininity in Second Empire France" (2013). Publicly Accessible Penn Dissertations. 911. https://repository.upenn.edu/edissertations/911 This paper is posted at ScholarlyCommons. https://repository.upenn.edu/edissertations/911 For more information, please contact
[email protected]. Designing Women: Fashion, Fiction, and Femininity in Second Empire France Abstract This dissertation explores the role of fashion and fashion journal discourse in some of the most widely read French novels of the nineteenth century: Gustave Flaubert's Madame Bovary (1857), �mile Zola's La Curée (1871), and Edmond de Goncourt's Chérie (1884). As access to popular styles and fashion magazines became increasingly democratized over the course of the nineteenth century, Second Empire Paris, with its new public parks, cafés, and amusements, became the locus of an unprecedentedly visual culture. Though fashion has often been considered a feminine frivolity in scholarly circles, I argue for its importance in the Second Empire as economic engine, powerful political tool, and visual signifier of social status. The rising significance of fashion in nineteenth-century French cultural life is paralleled by an increased interest in la mode in male-authored realist and naturalist texts. In the decline and dissolution of their respective heroines, I explore how Flaubert, Zola, and Goncourt thematize and problematize the kind of gaze that fashion elicits.