©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Contents

PlanPlan Your Your Trip Trip page 1 4

Welcome to Month by Month ...... 21 Canals ...... 35 Amsterdam ...... 4 With Kids ...... 24 Eating ...... 37 Amsterdam’s 10 Top ...... 6 Like a Local ...... 27 Drinking & Nightlife.... 40 What’s New ...... 13 For Free ...... 30 Entertainment ...... 48 Need to Know ...... 14 Museum Top Tips ...... 31 Shopping ...... 50 Top Itineraries ...... 16 By Bike ...... 32 Gay & Lesbian If You Like...... 18 Amsterdam ...... 52

Explore Amsterdam 54

Neighbourhoods Southern Canal Ring .....110 Plantage, Eastern Islands & Eastern Docklands ...... 175 at a Glance ...... 56 Jordaan & the West ...... 130 Oosterpark & Medieval Centre & Red Vondelpark & Around .. 146 Light District ...... 58 South Amsterdam...... 184 Old South ...... 153 Nieuwmarkt ...... 85 Day Trips from De Pijp ...... 165 Western Canal Ring ...... 95 Amsterdam ...... 191 Sleeping ...... 206

Understand Amsterdam 219

Amsterdam Today ...... 220 Canal Architecture ...... 242 History ...... 222 Architecture in Amsterdam ...... 246 Dutch Painting ...... 232 Music ...... 251

Survival Guide 253

Transport ...... 254 Language ...... 265 Directory A–Z ...... 259 Index ...... 276

Amsterdam Maps 284 ELLIOT DANIEL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © WIBOWO RUSLI / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Left: Canalside houses (p242)

Top: Cannabis College (p69)

Right: House on the Prinsengracht (p105)

Jordaan & the West p130 Medieval Centre & Red Light District ‚ p58

Western Plantage, Canal Eastern Islands & Ring Nieuwmarkt Eastern Docklands p95 p85 p175

Southern Canal Ring p110 Vondelpark & Around p146 De Pijp Old South p165 p153

Oosterpark & South Amsterdam p184 55

A MSTERDAM’S TOP SIGHTS

Royal Palace (Koninklijk Paleis) ...... 60 Begijnhof ...... 61 Oude Kerk ...... 62 Museum het Rembrandthuis ...... 87 Anne Frank Huis ...... 97 Vondelpark ...... 148 Van Gogh Museum ...... 155 Rijksmuseum ...... 158 Stedelijk Museum ...... 161 54 THOMAS WINZ / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Explore Amsterdam

Neighbourhoods at a Drinking & Nightlife ...... 121 Entertainment...... 173 Glance ...... 56 Entertainment...... 126 Shopping ...... 173 Shopping ...... 127 Medieval Centre Plantage, & Red Light District . . 58 Jordaan & Eastern Islands & Eastern Docklands . . 175 Top Sights ...... 60 the West ...... 130 Sights ...... 177 Sights ...... 63 Sights ...... 132 Eating ...... 179 Eating ...... 71 Eating ...... 134 Drinking & Nightlife ...... 182 Drinking & Nightlife ...... 75 Drinking & Nightlife ...... 140 Entertainment...... 182 Entertainment...... 79 Entertainment...... 142 Shopping ...... 183 Shopping ...... 80 Shopping ...... 143

Nieuwmarkt ...... 85 Vondelpark & Oosterpark & South Amsterdam . . 184 Top Sights ...... 87 Around ...... 146 Sights ...... 186 Sights ...... 88 Top Sights ...... 148 Eating ...... 189 Eating ...... 91 Sights ...... 149 Drinking & Nightlife ...... 189 Drinking & Nightlife ...... 92 Eating ...... 149 Entertainment...... 190 Entertainment...... 93 Drinking & Nightlife ...... 151 Entertainment...... 152 Shopping ...... 93 Day Trips from Shopping ...... 152 Amsterdam ...... 191 Western Haarlem ...... 192 Canal Ring ...... 95 Old South ...... 153 Leiden ...... 196 Top Sights ...... 155 Top Sights ...... 97 Delft ...... 200 Sights ...... 162 Sights ...... 99 Alkmaar ...... 203 Eating ...... 163 Eating ...... 102 Zaanse Schans ...... 204 Drinking & Nightlife ...... 104 Drinking & Nightlife ...... 163 Entertainment...... 106 Entertainment...... 164 Sleeping ...... 206 Shopping ...... 106 Shopping ...... 164

Southern De Pijp ...... 165 Canal Ring ...... 110 Sights ...... 167 Sights ...... 112 Eating ...... 167 Eating ...... 118 Drinking & Nightlife ...... 171 284

Amsterdam Maps

Map Legend SightsSports & Activities Routes Geographic Beach Diving/Snorkelling Tollway Hut/Shelter Buddhist Canoeing/Kayaking Freeway Lighthouse Castle Skiing Lookout Primary Surfing Christian Mountain/Volcano Swimming/Pool Secondary Hindu Oasis Walking Islamic Tertiary Park Windsurfing Lane Pass Jewish Other Sports & Picnic Area Monument Activities Unsealed Road Waterfall Museum/Gallery Information Plaza/Mall Ruin Hydrography Post Office Steps Winery/Vineyard Tourist Information River/Creek Tunnel Zoo Intermittent River Transport Other Sight Pedestrian Swamp/Mangrove Airport Overpass Reef Eating Border Crossing Walking Tour Canal Bus Eating Walking Tour Water Cable Car/ Detour Dry/Salt/ Funicular Drinking & Nightlife Intermittent Lake Cycling Path Drinking & Nightlife Glacier Ferry Cafe Metro Boundaries Areas Entertainment Monorail International Beach/Desert Parking Entertainment State/Province Cemetery S-Bahn (Christian) Shopping Taxi Disputed Cemetery (Other) Shopping Train/Railway Regional/Suburb Park/Forest Tram Marine Park Sportsground Sleeping Tube Station Sight (Building) Cliff Sleeping U-Bahn Top Sight Camping Other Transport Wall (Building) 285 Ð"6 NDSM-WERF 01km Florapark e# 00.5miles NIEUWENDAM

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MAP INDEX 4 Jordaan North (p 294 ) 8 Western Canal 12 De Pijp (p 308 ) 5 Jordaan South (p 296 ) Ring North (p 300 ) 13 Oosterpark & 1 Medieval Centre & Red 6 Westerpark & 9 Southern Canal South Amsterdam (p309 ) Light District North (p 286 ) Westergasfabriek (p 298 ) Ring (p302 ) 14 Plantage, Eastern 2 Medieval Centre & Red 7 Western Canal Ring 10 Old South (p 306 ) Islands & Eastern Light District South (p 290 ) South (p299 ) 11 Vondelpark & Docklands (p310 ) 3 Nieuwmarkt (p 292 ) Around (p 307 ) 286

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MEDIEVAL CENTRE & RED LIGHT DISTRICT NORTH Map on p286 æ Top Sights (p60) 38 Getto ...... E6 Nieuwe Kerk ...... B7 39 Hill Street Blues...... E5 Oude Kerk ...... E7 40 Homegrown Fantasy...... B6 41 In de Wildeman ...... D5 æ Sights (p63) 42 In 't Aepjen...... F5 1 Belle Statue & Golden Torso...... E7 43 Molly Malone's ...... G5 2 Beurs van 44 Oporto...... C7 Berlage ...... D6 45 Prik ...... A6 3 Centraal Station...... F2 46 Proeflokaal de Ooievaar ...... F5 4 Erotic Museum...... F7 47 Queen's Head...... G5 5 Guan Yin Shrine ...... F7 48 T Mandje...... G6 6 Museum Amstelkring...... F6 7 Prostitution Information Centre...... E6 ý Entertainment (p79) 8 Randy Roy's Redlight Tours meeting 49 Argos...... E6 point...... F4 50 Bitterzoet...... C4 9 Ronde Lutherse Kerk ...... C3 51 Casablanca...... G5 10 Schreierstoren ...... H5 Casablanca Variété...... (see 51) 11 Sexmuseum Amsterdam...... E5 52 Web ...... D5 12 St Nicolaaskerk...... G5 53 Winston Kingdom...... D7 13 W139...... D7 þ Shopping (p80) ú Eating (p71) 54 Bols Le Cellier ...... A6 14 De Bakkerswinkel ...... D7 55 Brouwerij de Prael...... F6 15 De Bakkerswinkel ...... G5 56 Chills & Thrills ...... D3 16 De Keuken van 1870...... C4 57 Coca (Leaf Experience)...... F5 17 Dwaze Zaken ...... F4 58 Condomerie Het Gulden Vlies ...... D7 18 Gebr Niemeijer ...... D3 59 Female & Partners ...... A6 19 Hofje van Wijs...... G6 60 Geels & Co...... D7 20 Kam Yin ...... F5 61 Hema...... C6 21 Nam Kee...... G7 62 Hempworks...... D3 22 Rob Wigboldus Vishandel...... C7 63 Himalaya...... E6 23 'Skek ...... F5 64 Innerspace...... A6 24 Thais Snackbar Bird ...... G6 65 Kokopelli...... F5 25 Van den Berg's Broodjesbar ...... C7 66 Mark Raven Grafiek...... B7 26 Villa Zeezicht ...... A7 McCarthy's...... (see 15) 67 Mr B...... E6 û Drinking & Nightlife (p75) 68 Nana...... E6 27 Akhnaton...... C5 69 RoB...... E6

MEDIEVAL CENTRE & RED LIGHT DISTRICT NORTH DISTRICT CENTRE & RED LIGHT MEDIEVAL 28 B van B Café ...... D6 29 Baba...... E6 ÿ Sleeping (p209) 30 Cafe Belgique ...... C7 70 Aivengo Youth Hostel ...... C4 31 Café de Barderij ...... G5 71 Bellevue Hotel...... D3 32 Café van Zuylen ...... A6 72 Flying Pig Downtown Hostel ...... D4 33 Cuckoo's Nest ...... D5 73 Hotel Brouwer...... B5 34 De Blauwe Parade...... A7 74 Hotel Luxer...... F5 35 De Drie Fleschjes ...... B7 75 Hotel the Crown...... F6 36 De Engel van Amsterdam ...... G5 76 St Christopher's at the Winston...... D7 37 Durty Nelly's ...... E7 289

MEDIEVAL CENTRE & RED LIGHT DISTRICT SOUTH Map on p290 æ Top Sights (p60) 24 Lanskroon...... A5 þ Shopping (p80) Amsterdam Museum ... B4 25 Lucius ...... A3 54 3-D Hologrammen...... D5 Begijnhof...... B5 26 Morning Star...... B3 55 Absolute Danny...... G1 Begijnhof Kapel...... B5 27 Pannenkoekenhuis 56 American Book Engelse Kerk...... B5 Upstairs...... D5 Center...... B5 House at No 34 ...... B5 28 SupperClub...... C2 57 Andries de Jong BV ...... D7 Royal Palace ...... C1 29 Tomaz...... B5 58 Art Market...... B5 30 Vleminckx ...... C6 59 Athenaeum ...... A5

æ Sights (p63) 60 Book Market ...... B5 MEDIEVAL CENTRE & RED LIGHT DISTRICT SOUTH 1 Allard Pierson û Drinking & Nightlife (p75) 61 Concrete ...... A3 Museum ...... D5 31 Abraxas ...... B2 62 Cracked Kettle...... A4 2 Cannabis College...... F2 Brasserie Harkema(see 53) 63 De Bierkoning...... B2 3 Civic Guard Gallery...... B4 32 Bubbles & Wines 64 De Bijenkorf ...... D1 4 Hash, Marijuana & Champagne Bar...... D2 65 Fame Music ...... C2 Hemp Museum...... F2 33 Café Dante...... A5 66 Hans Appenzeller...... D5 5 Hemp Gallery...... F2 34 Café de Jaren...... E6 67 ik...... B6 6 Huis aan de Drie 35 Café Het Schuim...... B2 68 Kalvertoren Grachten ...... E4 36 Café the Minds ...... A3 Shopping 7 Maagdenhuis...... B5 37 Café-Restaurant Centre...... C7 8 Madame Tussauds Kapitein 69 Laundry Industry ...... C5 Amsterdam...... C2 Zeppo's...... D4 70 Magic Mushroom 9 Mee in Mokum tour 38 Dampkring ...... B6 Gallery ...... A4 departure point...... C4 39 De Buurvrouw...... E3 71 Magna Plaza ...... B1 10 Munttoren...... D7 40 De Schutter...... B6 72 Maison de 11 Nationaal 41 De Zwart...... A5 Bonneterie ...... C6 Monument ...... D1 42 Dutch Flowers ...... A5 73 Oudemanhuis Book 12 Noord/Zuidlijn 43 Gollem ...... A4 Market ...... E5 Viewpoint ...... C4 44 Greenhouse ...... E3 74 PGC Hajenius...... C5 13 Oudemanhuispoort ...... E5 45 Hoppe...... A5 75 Postezegelmarkt...... B3 14 Papagaai ...... C3 46 Luxembourg ...... A6 76 Tibetwinkel...... B2 15 Rasphuis Gate...... C6 47 Pilsener Club ...... B5 77 Vrolijk...... B2 16 Statue of Queen 48 Proeflokaal Wynand 78 Vroom & Dreesmann.... D7 Wilhelmina ...... C5 Fockink...... E2 79 Wonderwood ...... E4 17 University Library ...... B6 49 Tara...... D4 50 Tweede Kamer ...... A5 ÿ Sleeping (p209) ú Eating (p71) 80 Hotel de L'Europe ...... D6 18 Blauw aan de Wal...... G2 ý Entertainment (p79) 81 Hotel Hoksbergen...... A3 19 Dop ...... C5 51 Casa Rosso ...... F2 82 Hotel Résidence Le 20 d'Vijff Vlieghen ...... A5 52 de Brakke Gronde...... D3 Coin...... E6 21 Frozz...... C3 53 Frascati...... D4 83 NH Grand Hotel 22 Gartine...... C5 Krasnapolsky...... D1 23 Haesje Claes...... A5 290

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E æ Top Sights (p87) 26 Café-Restaurant Joods Historisch Dantzig...... B7 Museum ...... D7 27 De Bekeerde Suster ...... B4 1 Museum het 28 De Engelbewaarder...... B5 Oosterdok Rembrandthuis ...... C5 29 De Sluyswacht ...... C5 30 Hill Street Blues ...... B3 æ Sights (p88) 31 Lokaal 't Loosje ...... B3 1 Dockworker statue ...... D7

2 Gassan Diamonds...... D5 ý Entertainment (p93) NIEUWMARKT Kleine Trippenhuis...... (see 48) 32 Amsterdams 3 Montelbaanstoren ...... E3 Marionetten 2 4 Mozes en Aäronkerk...... D6 Theater...... C2 P r in 5 Narrow House ...... A4 33 Bethaniënklooster...... B3 s H e 6 Oostindisch Huis...... A4 Muziektheater...... (see 11) n d r 7 Pentagon Housing ik k a d Estate ...... B5 þ Shopping (p93) e 8 Pintohuis ...... C5 34 & klevering...... A6 9 Portuguese-Israelite 35 Antiques Market ...... B3 Synagogue...... D7 Boerenmarkt...... (see 35) 3 10 Scheepvaarthuis...... D2 36 Book Exchange ...... A5 11 Stopera...... C7 37 De Beestenwinkel...... B6 12 Trippenhuis...... B4 38 Droog...... A6 13 TunFun ...... D6 39 Filmantiquariaat Cine #æ 3 14 Waag...... B3 Qua Non ...... A6 Waterlooplein Flea 40 Henxs ...... C5 Market ...... (see 47) 41 Jacob Hooy & Co ...... B4 15 Zuiderkerk ...... B5 42 Joe's Vliegerwinkel...... B4 See map 4 43 Juggle...... A6 hgp310 ú Eating (p91) 44 Knuffels...... C5 16 Café Bern ...... C3 45 Puccini Bomboni...... B6 17 Tokoman...... C7 46 't Klompenhuisje...... B4 18 Hemelse Modder ...... D3 47 Waterlooplein Flea 19 Lastage...... C1 Market...... C6

urgergracht 20 Latei...... B3 48 Webers...... B4 nb ile U 21 Nam Kee...... C3 5 22 Nyonya ...... B4 ÿ Sleeping (p210) 23 Toko Joyce...... B3 49 Christian Youth Hostel erstr 'The Shelter City' ...... B3 rg û Drinking & Nightlife (p92) 50 Misc Eat Drink Sleep ...... B4

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E æ Sights (p132) 31 De Tuin ...... B6 1 Amsterdam Tulip 32 De Twee Zwaantjes ...... C6 Museum ...... C6 33 di'Vino Wijnbar...... C5 1 2 Claes Claeszhofje ...... C6 34 Finch...... D4 3 Haarlemmerpoort...... C1 35 Het Papeneiland ...... D4 4 Karthuizerhofje ...... C5 36 Proust...... E4 5 Lindenhofje...... C4 37 Vesper Bar...... D3 6 Noorderkerk ...... D4

7 Noordermarkt ...... D4 ý Entertainment (p142) JORDAAN NORTH H J on 8 Pianola Museum ...... C5 38 Movies...... C1 ke rpl 9 Suyckerhofje ...... C4 2 þ Shopping (p143) ú Eating (p134) Boerenmarkt...... (see 7) 10 Bordewijk ...... D4 39 Boutique Petticoat ...... C4 11 Burger's Patio...... B6 40 Callas 43 ...... D3 12 Cinema Paradiso...... B5 41 Cellarrich ...... D2 w #þ 13 De Bolhoed ...... D5 42 Discostars...... D2 14 De Pizza Bakkers ...... D2 43 Het Oud-Hollandsch 53 #ú 15 Duende...... D4 Snoepwinkeltje ...... B6 18 3 16 Hostaria...... B6 44 Lab 13 ...... C1 17 Japanese Pancake 45 Lindengracht Market ...... C4 World ...... B6 46 Mechanisch Speelgoed ...... C5 18 Jordino ...... E3 47 Moooi Gallery ...... B5 19 Koevoet ...... C4 Noordermarkt...... (see 7) 20 La Oliva...... C6 48 Nou Moe Stripwinkel...... D4 36 û# 21 Small World Catering ...... D2 49 Ook ...... C1 000 000 22 Toscanini...... D4 50 Op de Dijk ...... D2 000 000 4 23 Winkel...... D5 51 Rock Archive ...... C6 52 Roode Bioscoop...... C1 û Drinking & Nightlife (p140) 53 't Zonnetje...... E3 24 Café P 96...... C6 54 Westermarkt ...... B5 25 Café 't Monumentje...... C5 55 Your Cup of T ...... D5 26 Café 't Smalle ...... C6 27 Café Thijssen...... D3 ÿ Sleeping (p214) See map 28 De Blaffende Vis...... C5 56 All Inn the Family B&B ...... B6 hgp300 5 29 De Prins...... C7 57 Hotel Acacia ...... B4 30 De Reiger...... C7 racht rsgr ersg e iz eiz K Ke

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E æ Sights (p132) 30 Korsakoff ...... C5 1 De Drie Hendricken ...... C2 31 Maloe Melo ...... C5 2 Electric Lady Land ...... D1 1 3 Houseboat Museum...... E5 þ Shopping (p143) 4 Johnny Jordaanplein...... D5 32 A Space Oddity ...... E3 5 St Andrieshofje ...... C1 33 Arnold Cornelis ...... D5 ngr 6 Stedelijk Museum 34 brown clothes ...... D4 Bureau Amsterdam...... D3 35 Broer & Zus ...... C3 Prinse 36 Chocolatl...... D4 JORDAAN SOUTH þ# 44 See map ú Eating (p134) 37 Christodoulou & Lamé...... D2 þ# 42 hgp300 00000000 7 Balthazar's Keuken...... D5 38 De Kasstoor...... C3 00000000 2 8 Brasserie Blazer...... C6 39 De Looier Antiques 00000000Westermarkt 00000000 9 Broodje Mokum ...... D2 Market...... C5 Raadhuisstr 10 De Vliegende Schotel ...... C2 40 English Bookshop...... C4 11 Divan...... D4 41 Eva Damave...... D4 þ# 12 Festina Lente...... D5 42 Galleria d'Arte 32 13 Manzano ...... C3 Rinascimento ...... E2 14 Moeders ...... B4 43 Jefferson Hotel ...... D5 15 Pazzi ...... D5 44 Josine Bokhoven ...... E2 3

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SOUTHERN CANAL RING Map on p302 æ Top Sights (p112) 34 Sluizer ...... F3 Bloemenmarkt ...... D2 35 Tempo Doeloe...... F4 Hermitage Amsterdam...... G3 36 Tujuh Maret...... F4 Museum Van Loon...... E4 37 Uliveto...... F6 Museum Willet-Holthuysen...... F3 38 Van Dobben...... E3 39 Van Vlaanderen ...... D6 æ Sights (p112) 40 Village Bagels...... D4 1 Amstelkerk ...... F4 41 Wok to Walk ...... B3 2 Amstelsluizen...... H4 Amsterdam American Hotel ...... (see 128) û Drinking & Nightlife (p121) 3 de Duif ...... F5 Amstel Bar & Brasserie ...... (see 144) 4 FOAM...... E4 42 Bo Cinq ...... B4 5 Geelvinck Hinlopen Huis ...... E4 43 Bulldog...... B4 6 Gijsbert Dommer Huis ...... G3 44 Café Americain ...... A4 7 Golden Bend...... D3 45 Café Brecht ...... D6 8 Kattenkabinet...... D3 46 Café de Spuyt ...... C4 Koninklijk Theater Carré...... (see 94) 47 Café de Wetering...... D5 9 Krijtberg ...... C2 48 Café Kale ...... F6 10 Max Euwe Centrum ...... B4 49 Café Langereis...... G3 11 Metz Department Store...... C3 50 Café Schiller...... F3 St Nicolaas Boat Club ...... (see 85) 51 Café 't Leeuwtje...... E3 12 Stadsarchief ...... D3 52 Church ...... B3 13 Stadsschouwburg...... B4 53 Club Air ...... F3 SOUTHERN CANAL RING SOUTHERN CANAL 14 Tassenmuseum Hendrikje ...... F3 54 Coffeeshop Free...... E3 55 De Huyschkaemer...... G5 ú Eating (p118) De Koffie Salon ...... (see 20) 15 Bojo...... B4 56 De Kroon...... F2 16 Bouchon Le Central...... F5 De Smoeshaan...... (see 98) 17 Café Morlang...... C2 57 Escape ...... F2 18 Café Walem ...... C2 58 Eylders ...... B3 19 Coffee & Jazz...... F4 59 Herberg Hooghoudt...... F3 20 Golden Temple...... F5 60 Holland Casino...... B4 21 In de Keuken...... F5 61 Jimmy Woo ...... A3 22 Japans ...... E6 62 Kamer 401 ...... A3 La Rive...... (see 144) 63 Lellebel...... F3 23 Le Zinc...et les Autres...... E5 64 Lux...... A3 24 Lo Stivale d'Oro...... G2 65 Minibar...... B3 25 Loekie ...... F3 66 Montmartre...... F2 26 Los Pilones...... C3 67 Mulligans ...... F2 M Café ...... (see 11) 68 NEL...... F4 27 Maoz ...... E2 69 N'Joy Cocktail Café...... B4 28 Na Siam...... F4 70 Odeon...... C2 29 Pastini...... B2 71 Oosterling...... G5 30 Piet de Leeuw ...... D5 72 Pata Negra ...... F5 31 Ponte Arcari...... F3 73 Pâtisserie Pompadour...... C4 32 Ristorante d'Antica...... E3 74 Rokerij...... B4 33 Segugio ...... F4 75 Stacey's Pennywell ...... F3 305

Stanislavski...... (see 13) 113 Lieve Hemel...... D3 76 Sugar Factory...... A3 114 Look Out ...... F4 77 Suzy Wong...... A3 115 Marañon Hangmatten ...... D2 78 Taboo Bar ...... D2 116 Phillipa K...... C3 79 The Other Side ...... D2 117 Plant Market...... F4 80 Two for Joy ...... G5 118 Reflex Modern Art Gallery...... C5 81 Vivelavie ...... F2 119 Reflex New Art Gallery...... C5 82 Weber ...... A3 120 Selexyz Scheltema...... C2

83 Whiskey Café L & B ...... B4 121 Shirt Shop...... E3 SOUTHERN CANAL RING 122 Shoebaloo ...... C2 ý Entertainment (p126) Stadsboekwinkel ...... (see 12) 84 Bourbon Street Jazz & Blues 123 Tinkerbell...... C4 Club...... B4 124 Vlieger...... E2 85 Chicago Social Club & Boom 125 When Nature Calls ...... C3 Chicago ...... B3 126 Young Designers United...... C2 86 Cinecenter ...... A3 87 Comedy Café Amsterdam...... B5 ÿ Sleeping (p211) 88 De Balie ...... B4 127 Amistad Hotel ...... B3 89 De Heeren van Aemstel ...... F3 128 Amsterdam American Hotel...... A4 90 De Kleine Komedie ...... F2 129 Backstage Hotel ...... A3 91 De La Mar Theatre...... A3 130 Banks Mansion ...... E3 92 De Uitkijk...... B3 131 City Hotel...... F3 93 Jazz Café Alto...... B4 132 Cocomama...... F6 94 Koninklijk Theater Carré...... H4 133 Golden Bear ...... B3 95 Melkweg ...... A3 134 Hans Brinker 96 Paradiso ...... B5 Budget Hotel...... C4 97 Pathé Tuschinskitheater...... E2 135 Hemp Hotel ...... G5 Stadsschouwburg...... (see 13) 136 Hotel Adolesce...... H3 98 Theater Bellevue...... A4 137 Hotel Amstelzicht...... F2 138 Hotel Asterisk ...... E6 þ Shopping (p127) 139 Hotel Freeland ...... A3 99 Art Market...... E3 140 Hotel Kap...... E6 100 Bloemenmarkt ...... D2 141 Hotel Orlando...... G4 101 Carl Denig ...... C5 142 Hotel Prinsenhof...... G5 102 Cityboek...... D4 143 Hotel V ...... F6 103 Concerto ...... F4 144 InterContinental Amstel 104 Cora Kemperman ...... B3 Amsterdam ...... H5 105 Eduard Kramer...... C4 145 Seven Bridges...... F4 106 EH Ariëns Kappers...... C4 146 Seven One Seven ...... B3 107 Gone With the Wind...... D4 108 Hart's Wijnhandel ...... D5 ï Transport 109 Heinen Delftware ...... B3 Blue Boat Company...... (see 147) International Theatre & Film Canal Bike...... (see 147) Books...... (see 13) Canal Bus ...... (see 147) 110 Jaski...... D4 147 Canal Bus Dock...... C5 111 Kaas Huis Tromp ...... F4 148 MacBike...... B5 112 Kom ...... G5 149 Mike's Bike Tours ...... C4 306

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1 Kerkstr 7 5 2 3 8 6 9 Top SightsSights (p178) (p177)

el 4 Nieuwe 11 12 13 Amst 10 æ æ 5 Our Story A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. Our Writers Karla Zimmerman Coordinating Author: Medieval Centre & Red Light District, Nieuwmarkt, Old South, Oosterpark & South Amsterdam During her Amsterdam travels, Karla admired art, bicycled crash-free, ate an embarrassing number of Droste chocolates and bent over to take her jenever (Dutch gin) like a local. She has been visiting Amsterdam since 1989, decades that have seen her trade space cakes for stroopwafels (syrup waffles), to a much more pleasant eff ect. Based in Chicago, Karla writes travel features for newspapers, books, magazines and websites. She has authored or co-authored several Lonely Planet guidebooks covering the USA, Canada, Caribbean and Europe. Karla also wrote Welcome to Amsterdam, What’s New, Need to Know, Top Itinerar- ies, If You Like, Museum Top Tips, By Bike, Canals and Read more about Karla at: the Survival Guide chapters. lonelyplanet.com/members/karlazimmerman Sarah Chandler Western Canal Ring, Southern Canal Ring, Jordaan & the West, Vondel- park & Around, De Pijp, Plantage, Eastern Islands & Eastern Docklands Sarah fell in love with Amsterdam during university, though it was only later, as a local, that she mustered suffi cient bravery to master the deceptively tricky Dutch art of cycling. When she’s not frolicking in the Vondelpark, drink- ing koffie verkeerd (milky coff ee) canalside at Café ‘t Smalle or indulging her cinematic obsessions at the Pathé Tuschinskitheater, Sarah works as a writer, actress and lecturer at Amsterdam University College. She loves calling one of her favourite neighbour- hoods on earth – Amsterdam’s Latin Quarter, De Pijp – home. Sarah also wrote Month by Month, With Kids, Like a Local, For Free, Day Trips and the Read more about Sarah at: Understand chapters. lonelyplanet.com/members/sarahchandler

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 8th edition – Feb 2012 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 174179 903 3 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

47-our-writers-ams8.indd 268 20/08/2012 2:16:04 PM ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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