VOLUME 5 NO. 40 JANUARY 11 – JANUARY 17, 2019 SUBMIT STORIES TO: @STRIPES.COM STRIPESJAPAN.COM FACEBOOK.COM/STRIPESPACIFIC FREE SUBMIT A PHOTO FOR THE COVER OF winterDODEA spor ts t ip of f Pages 4-6

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PAGES 12-13 MUSTS 2 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JANUARY 11 − JANUARY 17, 2019

Max D. Lederer Jr. Publisher Family shares Lt. Col. Richard E. McClintic Commander Michael Davidson Revenue Director bond of service, Chris Verigan Engagement Director Marie Woods Publishing and Media Design Director Chris Carlson blood and love Publishing and Media Design Manager Monte Dauphin BY JAMES BOLINGER, Japan Area Manager STARS AND STRIPES Published: Dec. 19, 2018 Kentaro Shimura Production Manager Rie Miyoshi MARINE CORPS AIR STATION Engagement Manager IWAKUNI — Lyle Gilbert didn’t Ian Waddick consider a military career until Publishing and Media Design Editor he felt the pull of patriotism after Publishing and Media Design Writers scores of U.S. troops were killed ChiHon Kim Shoji Kudaka and injured in the 1986 La Belle Takahiro Takiguchi discothèque bombing in West Layout Designers Berlin. Ayako Kamio Today, he’s a Marine Corps Marine Maj. Lyle Gilbert, bottom right, and his wife Johanna, bottom left, have four children serving on active duty in the U.S. Yukiyo Oda military. Three are in the Marine Corps and one is in the Air Force. Courtesy of The Gilbert Family Yuko Okazaki major whose example has led Kayoko Shimoda four of his children into military company commander at Marine Maurice Murrain, 19, graduat- camera, and today would be con- Multimedia Consultants service – three as fellow Marines. Max Genao Doug Johnson Corps Recruit Depot Parris Is- ed Air Force basic training Sept. sidered a communication strate- Jason Lee Hans Simpson “For me there was no other land, S.C. She is a communica- 28. gy Marine like his son and grand- Chae Pang Yi Gianni Youn alternative than to join the Ma- tion strategy officer by trade, And Tyler Gilbert, 18, who Robert Zuckerman daughters. rines. I never visited another just like her father. Marines in graduated recruit training Nov. Graphic Designers recruiter,” said Gil- Kenichi Ogasawara Yosuke Tsuji that field serve as 30, was a member of the same re- Like dominos bert, the director EXCLUSIVE NEWS FROM: military journal- cruit company and battalion his Rhodes was the first of her Sales Support Kazumi Hasegawa Hiromi Isa of communication ists, broadcasters, father graduated from 32 years siblings to sign on the dotted line, Ichiro Katayanagi Yoko Noro strategy at MCAS photographers and ago. He is now headed to Camp in 2012, and said she joined be- Yoichi Okazaki Yusuke Sato Chae Yon Son Saori Tamanaha Iwakuni, alluding public relations Lejeune, N.C., where he will at- cause of the examples set by her to the toughness, specialists. tend combat engineer school. parents. Her mother and biologi- For feedback and inquiries, image and ethos embodied by the Rhodes’ younger sister, Ma- The Gilberts trace their Ma- cal father were both in the Army, contact [email protected] Corps. rine Sgt. Jordan Gilbert, 25, is rine Corps heritage to Lyle’s fa- and she grew up around To place an ad, call DSN 227-7370 His eldest daughter, Marine also in communication strategy ther, Dominic, who served in the the Marine Corps and stripesjapan.com/contact Capt. Sarah Rhodes, 29, is a and stationed on Okinawa. 1950s. He also worked behind a participated in the Junior JANUARY 11 − JANUARY 17, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES JAPAN 3

Reserve Officer Training [Two of] my sisters had already Amanda Segobiano, 27, lives Corps while attending high joined, and I really wanted to in California, holds a degree in school on Okinawa. make my parents proud. I think sociology and plans to work as a “I loved everything about the the military is the best way to do “As a mom, I counselor for formerly incarcer- uniform,” Rhodes said. “That that.” ated adults. feeling of pride started me on couldn’t be more the path to joining the Marine Family within a family proud, and our What the future holds Corps.” Lyle Gilbert met his wife Jo- While many of the Gilberts’ Jordan Gilbert was next in hanna, then a specialist and fi- family photos children may be on active duty April 2013. She was recently se- nance technician in the Army, are amazing!” for the next several years, none is lected for promotion to staff ser- while training to become a Ma- committed to making the service geant and will sew on her new rine broadcaster at the Defense – Johanna Gilbert a career like their father. rocker next year. Information School at Fort Ben- Rhodes will hit her six-year “I got super motivated when jamin Harrison, Ind. Together, mark in December. She said she my older sister graduated” from the couple has raised a tight-knit wants to see what her next sta- Officer Candidate School, Jor- family with an emphasis on ser- Now-Sgt. Jordan Gilbert, right, is congratulated by her older sister, now-Marine tion holds before she commits to dan said. “The whole plane ride vice. Currently, Johanna is a ci- Capt. Sarah Rhodes, after completing Marine Corps recruit training in 2013. the long-term. back, I asked my dad a bunch of vilian nurse and lives in North Courtesy of The Gilbert Family Lyle Gilbert is also at a cross- different questions, and the next Carolina. roads. January will mark his month I signed up.” “I think we built it together, “We grew up together,” their own service, Lyle Gilbert 33rd year in the Marine Corps. The Gilberts’ sons graduated although the greater balance was Rhodes said. “And we go through said he didn’t push his children Though retirement has long been from MCAS Iwakuni’s Matthew with my wife,” Lyle Gilbert said. it in the Marine Corps together as to join the military. an option, he was notified of his C. Perry High School together “She has always been very nur- well. We have an extra bond that Instead, he said, the focus selection to lieutenant colonel earlier this year, and were best turing, very loving, very open. not everyone has.” was on serving others and doing the day before Tyler completed friends growing up. So much so, She always wanted to have a things the right way. recruit training. With his tour at that the Gilberts adopted then- place where the friends come, Tradition of service “If you are going to do some- MCAS Iwakuni coming to an end 12-year-old Murrain in 2012 be- not a place our kids wanted to Lyle said he understands that thing, do it 100 percent,” said next year, he said all options are fore moving to Okinawa. stay away from.” most of his children will likely be Tyler Gilbert, explaining one of on the table. Murrain said he wasn’t set on Their children remember deployed – potentially to combat his father’s philosophies. “Even “The first thing we advise joining the Air Force until his ju- growing up around young Ma- zones. if it’s a mostly meaningless task, our children, with anything in nior year of high school. Today, he rines from their father’s work “The only thing needed for do it and do it right. Do it the way life, is to pray about it,” his wife is attending technical school for who would join the family for evil to prevail is for good and ca- it is supposed to be done, not just said. “Then do your homework. aircraft structural maintenance holiday parties and other gather- pable men and women to stand to get it over with.” Know what you’re getting into at Pensacola Naval Air Station, ings. idly by and do nothing. And I tell Two Gilbert children chose and make sure it’s something you Fla. He hopes to be stationed at “On Christmas, these corpo- [my children] that,” he said. “If paths outside the military. Emily want and can to do. The military Okinawa’s after rals and lance corporals would not you, then who? Serving your Gilbert, 20, is teaching English brings discipline, sacrifice and graduation. be watching movies in the liv- country, protecting your fellow at a preschool in Iwakuni while commitment. They understood Before leaving home for re- ing room,” Jordan Gilbert said. man and your family, putting it seeking a degree in elementary this, and it’s not a decision they cruit training, his brother, Tyler, “Even when dad was deployed, all on the line for that, it’s why we education. have taken lightly.” said being a Marine has always my mom would always have his are all here.” “I had made it very apparent “As a mom, I couldn’t be more been his dream. Marines over.” He said he was very proud that I wasn’t going to join the mil- proud,” she added. “And our fam- “Growing up around the Ma- That bond carries over even when he heard that Rhodes had itary,” she said. “It’s their thing. ily photos are amazing!” rine Corps made me want to though the family is now spread decided to join the Marines. De- It’s amazing what they are doing, [email protected] join,” he said. “It’s a pride thing. all over the world. spite his and his wife’s pride in but I wouldn’t be able to do it.” Twitter: @bolingerj2004

Home Business Directory 4 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JANUARY 11 − JANUARY 17, 2019

Senior Ethan Rodriguez is a returning All-Far East Division II player for a rebuilding Daegu boys basketball team. Photo by Ben Sessions, Special To Stripes

BY DAVE ORNAUER, STARS AND STRIPES Published: Dec. 6, 2018

ile C. Kinnick won a Far East boys basketball title last year. N So did Humphreys. This year, at least one of those teams won’t. At least not all by themselves. Kinnick won the Far East Division I tournament and Humphreys took the D-II crown. But Humphreys moved up a division to start the school year. Fueling the Red Devils’ and Black- hawks’ drives toward a possible D-I final showdown in February at Humphreys areKinnick several players who play all year looks around, and the coaches of their respec- tive teams say they could be true differ- ence-makers this season. “It’s like we’re getting seasoned vet- eranfor players who know repeat what to do,”

Elijah Bembischew, a 6-foot-7 senior, brings height in the paint to a rebuilding Daegu Warriors boys team. Photo by Mary Sarantakes, Special to Stripes

Blackhawks coach Ron Merri- wether says of All-Far East se- Humphreys to face D-I nior returners Jalen Hill and opponents, “we have to two-time Far East MVP Quin- prepare for whomever tin Metcalf. we may see,” Merriweth- “He’s really stepped up as er said. “We have to get a leader this year,” Red Devils better each week, have to coach Robert Stovall said of junior ris- improve on the little things.” ing star Kaine Roberts. With Humphreys now at Metcalf and Hill spent last summer D-I and two other recent D-II playing in Philadelphia for the Alexan- that’s in fo- champions, E.J. King and der Basketball Academy Global Squad, cus now. Yokota, in rebuild mode, the along with Kinnick’s Davion Roberts “He’s a chase for the small-schools and Chris Watson and American School team guy and title could be a wide-open In Japan’s Koki Wiley. that’s where one. “They kind of understand that it’s he’s matured the most,” Among the more promising more than scoring points,” Merriwether Stovall said of Roberts. “He can create teams is Osan, which keeps said. “Trying to benefit the team. Makes points for other guys, which is what we three starters, welcomes us as a whole harder to hoped he could do.” two talented newcomers beat. Make the extra EXCLUSIVE NEWS FROM: With the Roberts and and is hoping to improve pass, get your teammates Watson in the lineup, Kin- in both Korea Blue and involved, elevate the lev- nick went 25-4 a year ago, Far East finishes. el of play of everybody capturing the first Far Matthew C. Perry welcomes a broth- else.” East D-I title in school er tandem from California, Justin and For the last two sum- history. Joseph Andres, along with experienced mers, Roberts (no relation to Davion) Behind Metcalf and Hill, the Black- Kadena transfer Anthony Laney. has played for B Corsairs hawks made it a clean sweep of the Ko- And while Robert D. Edgren appears U-15 to U-18 team in the Tokyo-Yokoha- rea Blue titles, then went on to beat Yo- young, the Eagles welcome four play- ma based Reccoss International League kota in the D-II final before taking third ers with stateside experience, as well Jalen Hill, a Humphreys senior, spent part of the for teens. place in the combined Far East. They as new-old coach Andre Thibert, who summer with teammate Quintin Metcalf playing While all are aiming to play at a high- went 20-1, including a 5-1 ledger against returns to the bench after a five-season for Alexander Basketball Academy’s Global er level next year, it’s what they can do Division I teams. hiatus. Squad. Photo by Julianna Visico, Special To Stripes to bring their teams success this year Even though it’s not new for [email protected] JANUARY 11 − JANUARY 17, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES JAPAN 5

Ebony Dykes, who previously played for Seoul American, is now a senior at Humphreys; Dai’Ja Turner returns as a sophomore for up-and-coming Daegu’s girls basketball team. Photos by Mary Sarantakes, Special to Stripes

Maria Bruch formerly played for Seoul American, but is now a senior Bethani Newbold, a sophomore, will once again start at point guard for guard at Humphreys; Madelynn Huffman is a sophomore for up-and- up-and-coming Daegu girls basketball. coming Daegu’s girls basketball team.

BY DAVE ORNAUER, games or if the Eagles make it to the Boyd to the coaching helm. STARS AND STRIPES championship game again, Cooper, the He’s coached boys teams at Published: Dec. 6, 2018 Panthers’ second-year coach, offers the Seoul American and Robert following: D. Edgren since 2002, but ohnny Cooper knows what a good “You have to limit your mistakes,” he never a girls team. He brings team needs to do to accomplish said. “They capitalize a great deal on seniors Ebony Dykes and Ma- the feat. The question, he says, is J turnovers. You really have to take care ria Bruch with him from Seoul there any team in Division I that can of the ball. And you have to bring the to Humphreys. step up and take down American School game to them. Last year, we did that for Nile C. Kinnick also has a of Bangkok, the two-time defending Far three quarters. But you have to play a new coach, Sherry Dailey, who EastGirls large-schools squadsgirls tournament look to dethrone ASB complete game against them.” coached Red Devils junior var- champion? Cooper’s Panthers sity the last two It’s doubtful that it will be Cooper and should be hard-pressed EXCLUSIVE NEWS FROM: years. Kinnick his rebuilding Kadena Panthers. For five to make it back to the gains a 6-foot-2 cen- of the last six years, including the last title game, given that six ter, Madelyn Gallo, Yokota’s cupboard isn’t entirely bare; two, Kadena has played bridesmaid to seniors graduated and from Rota, Spain, and a five players return, but second-year powerhouse teams that made every Di- two juniors transferred. freshman guard in Jordan coach Byron Wrenn still needs height in vision I tournament since 2012 a chase Only one starter, Atiria Simms. the paint. to see who finishes second. Kadena did Simms, returns. And while Eagles might again soar to “We are working hard and excited win once, in 2016. It could be that Kubasaki, long the a D-I title, the small-schools title chase about the season,” Wrenn said. “We look For the last two years, ASB’s Eagles, Panthers’ doormats on Okinawa, could could be wide open, now that Yokota’s forward to the start of the season and with their sister duo of Keisharna Lucas rise up. Eight players return from last super seniors, Britney and Jamia Bai- will compete with our opponents.” and two-time D-I MVP Shanique Lucas, year’s team. ley, have graduated. Among other teams in rebuild mode, have dominated all comers, winning two “This is by far the most talented team Daegu, with new coach Jay Van, Zama looks promising, with four return- D-I titles and also last year’s combined we’ve had top to bottom,” said third-year looks promising with super sophomores ers, including junior Jessica Atkinson in D-I/D-II Far East tournament at Marine Dragons coach Steven Casner. “They’re Bethani Newbold and Dai’Ja Turner still the middle. “We don’t have much depth,” Corps Air Station Iwakuni. going to give me everything they’ve got in the lineup. So, too, does Osan, with new coach Daisy Whitaker-Hayes said, And it’s a fairly sure bet that ASB will every day.” Brendan Rouse new to the helm but a “but we have quality and I’ll take quality be invited back to defend its D-I title. Or it could be Humphreys, which veteran squad on the floor, featuring se- over quantity any day.” Whether it’s in one of the early pool-play moves up from D-II and welcomes Steve niors Lizzy White and Maja Inthavixay. [email protected] 6 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JANUARY 11 − JANUARY 17, 2019

Yokota sophomore Chris DeGrella took fourth place at 108 pounds in last year’s Far East tournament. Photo by Corrine Nepaial, Special to Stripes

Senior Chris Mason, dark shirt and shorts, is one of five returning Far East wrestling tournament champions. He won the 215-pound class last year for Division I champion Nile C. Kinnick. Photo by Sheila Suckart, Special to Stripes

BY DAVE ORNAUER, and will bring to the mat a young- challenge from Reventlow. STARS AND STRIPES ish lineup looking to develop. And there’s experience among Published: Dec. 6, 2018 The Titans are in somewhat Cook’s cadre of assistants: two- better shape, sporting a lineup time Far East runner-up Josh CAMP FOSTER, Okinawa – After five top-heavy in underclassmen, Bales, Kubasaki Class of 2010, seasons of dominance by St. Mary’s and including six seniors, three of and two-time champion Bobby Nile C. Kinnick on the Far East Division whom placed during last year’s Duncan, Kubasaki Class of 2001. I wrestling scene, it’s pretty much start- Teams look Farto East. Butmake they only return Thanksleap to a spike in enroll- ing-over time for the Titans and Red Junior Jacob Berry, top one defending champion in soph- ment, due to the transformation Devils - particularly for the latter. left, and sophomore Gavin omore Eiji Kasahara. from Yongsan Garrison south, The reigning Kanto Plain, DODEA- Jackson are the two lone “It’s really wide open,” ninth- Humphreys moves from Divi- returners to a young, thin Japan and Far East D-I champion Dev- year Kinnick coach Gary Wilson sion II to Division I, and coach Daegu wrestling team. ils lost 12 of 13 starters, have just one re- Photo by Lisa Lyons, Special to Stripes said of the upcoming season and Ben Pak from Seoul American to pastturning champion St. in senior ChrisMary’s, Mason Kinnick who might be in line for a shot at the Blackhawks’ helm. Division I honors. “It’s pretty cy- But Pak and the Blackhawks clical here. You have some down face the same issue he and Seoul years when you have to build American faced when they were again. We have a lot of work to top of the Korea heap. Hum- do. We’re all rookies.” phreys can fill just about every So who might be in line to by- weight class, but the same cannot pass St. Mary’s and Kinnick, with be said for the Falcons, Osan and 28 Far East wrestling titles be- Daegu, where the ranks are thin. tween them, and seize the Divi- Osan does sport two-time cham- sion I crown? pion Kojiro VanHoose at 122. “I liked Kubasaki last year, “I’ll have several wrestlers and American School In Japan, who will go through the season too,” Wilson said of the Dragons, with no matches and when they who have 25 Far East titles, a Pa- get to Far East, they will struggle cific-record in any sport; and the due to limited competition as Mustangs, with four Far East mat well as experience,” Pak said. titles. “They have some things “With Humphreys’ student going on.” population getting larger, we’re The Dragons re- going to be at turn five wrestlers, EXCLUSIVE NEWS FROM: a disadvantage three of whom compared to placed at Far East schools in Japan a year ago. Coach and Okinawa.” Brent Cook, in In Japan Di- his third season, says his team vision II, Zama’s and Edgren’s is deep at all weight classes, in- numbers are also down and E.J. cluding one, 215, where he’s torn King will not field a team. regarding which one he’ll keep The two most populous D-II as his No. 1, Clint Reventlow or teams in Japan are defending Haydn Peterson. Far East champion Yokota and “They’re focused, concentrat- last year’s runner-up Matthew ing, hard-working; they’re pretty C. Perry. Each has a reigning Far impressive,” Cook said of his East champion on its roster, Ca- group of wrestlers, which as of leb Heino for the Panthers and Tuesday numbered 30. “I see a Marshall China for the Samurai, different team than I’ve seen the and can fill almost all weights. last couple of years.” “If you’re not contending, Senior Luke Moseley placed you’re pretending,” Samurai second at 148 last year and soph- third-year coach Chris Munsell omore Jaylan Mayers fifth at 122. said. “We will always contend as Peterson finished fourth at 215 a long as I’m coaching here.” year ago, but is getting a strong [email protected] JANUARY 11 − JANUARY 17, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES JAPAN 7

A home for craft beer enthusiasts

STORY AND PHOTOS BY CRAIG ATKINSON, with whiskey. Daily, he adds a new beer METROPOLIS MAGAZINE to the shortlist on the handwritten menu above the bar. n the narrow side streets around Beers don’t last long here; even the Tokyo’s Iidabashi Station, there are popular ones will be off the menu within Inumerous bars and eateries for you a couple of kegs. Hop-Scotch’s aim is to to choose from. One in particular, Hop- keep themselves and their clientele up- Scotch, is redrawing the traditional to-date with what different breweries boundaries of what a bar offers. are producing by keeping an open menu. Hop-Scotch is a craft However, the whis- beer and whiskey bar keys are handled dif- that opened in July ferently. The whiskey 2015, and has since be- menu is set, with a focus come a home for local on the limited and hard- beer and whiskey en- to-get releases. One on thusiasts by serving the latest craft beers offer, for instance, is from a young dis- Hop-Scotch Craft Beer & Whisky from here and abroad. tillery located 200 feet below sea level: LOCATION: Inoue Building 1F, Funimi The bar is owned by an Australian Milk and Honey in Tel Aviv. There were 2-2-11, Chiyoda-ku husband and wife, Luke and Jules, who also many other bottles on the shelves NEAREST STATION: Iidabashi are locals themselves. Behind the bar with similar stories, giving Yusuke a or vegetable quesadilla, fish and chips, TEL.: 050-3136-9699 you’ll find Yusuke. He has been the man- chance to flex his knowledge. gyoza and, on Tuesday nights, baby back HOURS: Mon - Fri 5 p.m. - 12 a.m., ager since the doors opened, and brought I ordered an imperial stout from Seat- ribs. Hop-Scotch also holds a number of Sat 3 p.m. - 12 a.m. Closed Sun. with him fifteen years experience dealing tle, Washington, which was recommend- events including the Cook-Your-Own- WEB: www.hopscotchtokyo.com ed as a pairing for the Reuben sandwich Takoyaki night, where everything is sup- that I’d also ordered. While I sat and plied. There is also a Showa Kayo night, looked around, I couldn’t help but notice hosted by a local DJ playing live tunes all gallon of paint, and I finally got the ap- the beer labels stuck on the walls, dis- night, and a Tap Takeover night, which is peal of craft beer — the creativity of the played and earned like the badges on a one of the few times that you might see craft of brewing. The beers you drink at boy scout’s uniform. I was taken aback a beer run through the taps for a second Hop-Scotch or similar bars aren’t sent by how many breweries had been served time. Tap Takeover nights give a brew- out of shipping facilities in twenty- or in the bar in the two years since it had ery an opportunity to show a selection of forty-liter units, but in four, eight, or ten, opened, and wondered what the walls what they have or a new release. Yusuke delivered door to door like a care pack- might look like in another two. and the owners prioritize keeping a close age from back home. After I finished my sandwich, I or- connection with the brewers and distill- I might have stepped into Hop-Scotch dered a serving of pulled pork sliders. eries by visiting them regularly. as a novice about the craft beer scene, The menu serves a mix of different pub While I was at the bar, a delivery of but I left as an enthusiast for the craft of foods, with offerings such as the chicken two kegs arrived, both no larger than a brewing. 8 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JANUARY 11 − JANUARY 17, 2019

Meiji Shrine

Imperial Palace

Things to see on your first Tokyo visit STORY AND PHOTOS BY NANO BETTS, I recommend you download Hyperdia app to easily figure TRAVELWITHNANOB.COM PLANNING YOUR STAY IN TOKYO How Long Should I stay in Tokyo? The answer to this out the train times and routes. I also rely heavily on Google Maps, I think it is the easiest way to find the place and it has rip to Tokyo is a psychedelic ex- question depends on your budget and available time. I’d recommend allocating at least three full days to exploring not yet failed me. In general, people here are very friendly perience and no guidebook, docu- and helpful, even if they are too shy to speak English. More mentary or movie can prepare you Tokyo, and couple more days for day trips to Kamakura, than once have I seen strangers go out of their way to es- for it. Home to more than 13 mil- Hakone, Nikko or Mt. Fuji to name a few. cort me to the place I was going. So yes, don’t hesitate to lion people, Tokyo is sprawling, Where should I stay in Tokyo? There is no lack of luxury, ask for an assistance. Tfrenetic and endlessly fascinating. The visu- as well as more budget-friendly hotels in town. You also Is there free wifi in Tokyo? Only in select places, like air- als, the smells and the sounds all merge have a wide array of hostels and capsule hotels to choose from, not to mention Airbnb options. Unlike many other ports, certain train stations and cafes. I recommend to rent into what I like to call a city of thou- a pocket wifi at the airport, that way you will have internet sand layers and endless contrasts. capitals, Tokyo doesn’t have a single “downtown” or “city center”. Wherever you book your lodging, make sure you access everywhere you go. Very important for the Google Japan’s capital has insatiable Maps! appetite for modernity, yet are located close to the metro station for easy access to the public transportation. Neighborhoods like Shinjuku, Is language an issue? Yes and no, and it all depends on a never loses the sight of its Shibuya, , Akasaka and area are all situation. You will not have a problem navigating cities and history and deep-rooted cul- good places to stay at. finding information (information tural heritage. It’s the kind of How do I get from Narita or centers are particularly helpful!). city where a centuries-old Shinto Haneda Airport to the city center? However, most of the shops and shrine can be found just next door to the There are regular shuttle buses Harajuku grocery stores, for example, still state of the art architectural masterpiece. going from both airports to dif- don’t have English signage. Many Or where a kimono-clad woman, poised and ferent areas of the city (approx. local restaurants also don’t have elegant in her wooden geta, boards the uber- ¥3000, up to 90-minute drive de- English menus and staff typically modern bullet train and shares the seat with pending on traffic), or limousine struggle answering your enqui- Lolita girl. Tokyo will equally dazzle you with its soaring bus services taking you directly ries (especially over the phone). skyscrapers, tranquil landscape gardens, flickering jumbo to your hotel. You can also take They are also all very shy, which neon billboards, quirky characters and rickety mom-and- train: Narita Express costs ¥2940 at times complicates things. Hav- pop shops. In short, whether you are looking for the luxu- and will get you to Tokyo, Shinju- ing said that, Japanese are gener- rious, the bizarre, the cute or ku and Shibuya Stations (among ally friendly to foreigners even the quintessential – there is a few others) in about an hour; though English is not well spo- something for everyone. Narita Skyliner costs ¥2,400 per ken. I *very* rarely am in situa- It took me almost two person and will get you to Ueno station in 45 minutes; To- tions where I cannot figure out a thing and have to turn years of living in Tokyo to kyo Monorail from Haneda, costing ¥470 per person, will around and leave. There is always a way to get the message finally sit down and write get you to centrally-located Station where you through, just don’t feel intimidated, stay patient and polite. my guides. The truth is, can transfer to other mass-transit services. Naturally, you Remember, Japan is your host country! there is so much also have an option to take a taxi, but beware of high cost. to explore in Is Tokyo Safe? Absolutely! The crime rate is incredibly POINTS OF INTEREST IN TOKYO the rambling low, and I have never felt even a tiny bit unsafe no mat- Each of Tokyo’s neighborhoods have a distinct character metropolis, it ter how late it was. The city also has a wonderful lost and of its own. The goal of this guide is not to list all the “must- is impossible found system, so if you happen to leave something behind see places in Tokyo”, but rather give you options and in- to list it all in one in the train, or loose an item in the street, there is a big spire you to explore the city. Whether you are traveling to post. That’s why I will chance to retrieve it at the local Police Station. Tokyo for the first time, or are a returning visitor, I hope be grouping it all thematically Is it easy get by in Tokyo, are there English signs? Yes, you’ll discover something new for yourself here. Don’t try in a series of posts: Tokyo for first-tim- you will have no trouble navigating the city as there are to cram as much as possible into your itinerary. Japan is ers, off-beat Tokyo and unique experiences English signs almost everywhere, especially in the metro/ a place to be savored, observed, admired, and pondered. in Tokyo. Whether it’s your first time in Japan, train stations (this unfortunately doesn’t include restau- Even in the mad rush of Tokyo, try to go slow, let your curi- or you’re coming back to explore more, rants, as some have signs only in Japanese). Attendants osity wander, observe and soak it all in. Follow the links in hope you’ll find something useful in the in the train stations are also very helpful and speak some each subsection to get an in-depth information about each upcoming articles. English, so they will gladly point you to the right direction. place. JANUARY 11 − JANUARY 17, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES JAPAN 9

Meiji Shrine Scramble Crossing In Shibuya

Things to see on your first Tokyo visit I recommend you download Hyperdia app to easily figure public. The elevators of the hotel are also a good spot. The out the train times and routes. I also rely heavily on Google corner two elevators facing the crossing are made of glass Maps, I think it is the easiest way to find the place and it has Shinjuku and provides a perfect vantage point. not yet failed me. In general, people here are very friendly If you’re hungry, I recommend either perusing the un- and helpful, even if they are too shy to speak English. More derground food parlor called Tokyu Food Show to pick up than once have I seen strangers go out of their way to es- a bento box, or enjoy sushi at Uoriki Kaisen located on the cort me to the place I was going. So yes, don’t hesitate to same floor. ask for an assistance. Is there free wifi in Tokyo? Only in select places, like air- MEIJI SHRINE ports, certain train stations and cafes. I recommend to rent There are many incredibly pretty temples and shrines a pocket wifi at the airport, that way you will have internet in Tokyo, but one that should absolutely make your list of access everywhere you go. Very important for the Google places to see (alongside the Buddhist Senso-ji complex in Maps! Asakusa) is a magnificent Meiji Shrine. The complex was Is language an issue? Yes and no, and it all depends on a built to honor the divine souls of Emperor Meiji, who made situation. You will not have a problem navigating cities and significant contribution in the modernization of Japan, and finding information (information Empress Shoken and to commemorate their virtues and centers are particularly helpful!). venerate them forever. While the shrine itself is beauti- However, most of the shops and SHINJUKU ful, it is the path leading to it that leaves me speechless Harajuku grocery stores, for example, still City within a city, Shinjuku is a central business and every time I go there. A massive wooden torii gate made of don’t have English signage. Many entertainment district of Tokyo. During the daytime, sa- 1,700-year-old cypress greets you at the start of the wide local restaurants also don’t have vor the view from the observation deck of monumental passage into what feels like a massive green forest. The English menus and staff typically Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office and enjoy picnic minute you step on the other side of the gate a calm silence struggle answering your enqui- at Shinjuku Gyoen Garden. For those seeking excitement, replaces the relentless bruit of crowded Harajuku and you ries (especially over the phone). the red-light district of Kabukicho (with one of the most im- seem to be immersed into a bit magical world where an They are also all very shy, which pressive neon lights) comes to life after the sun sets. The atmosphere of tranquility and austerity takes over. You are at times complicates things. Hav- psychedelic show at Robot Restaurant will certainly leave in the heart of the huge metropolis, yet detached from the ing said that, Japanese are gener- you positively perplexed and you can always continue the rest of the world and all its worries. ally friendly to foreigners even night at one of many karaoke bars nearby, or have shots at a though English is not well spo- more retro-style bars lined up along Golden Gai. HARAJUKU, OMOTESANDO AND AOYAMA ken. I *very* rarely am in situa- Starting from October 2017, Shinjuku will also be home Once you are done touring Meiji Shrine, head down the tions where I cannot figure out a thing and have to turn to Yayoi Kusama’s first permanent museum in Japan. street to Harajuku neighborhood for a contrasting experi- around and leave. There is always a way to get the message ence. Start your tour at the Takeshita Dori, a hub of kawaii through, just don’t feel intimidated, stay patient and polite. SCRAMBLE CROSSING IN SHIBUYA culture and Japanese teenagers with their outlandish Remember, Japan is your host country! I often call it the Time Square of Tokyo. This place has street fashion that is a source of inspiration to designers a verve like no other. It is like a beating heart after a vigor- around the world. You’ll find a mix of psychedelic vintage POINTS OF INTEREST IN TOKYO ous cardio exercise, filled with energy and crazy pace. Be- boutiques, music-filled fashion shops, crepe stalls and ca- Each of Tokyo’s neighborhoods have a distinct character ing the world’s busiest interaction, there is lots to take in: fes, plus photo booths known as purikura, where visitors of its own. The goal of this guide is not to list all the “must- crowds flood from all directions every time the light goes customize pictures of themselves with kitsch decorations. see places in Tokyo”, but rather give you options and in- green, ginormous flashy billboards scream from all direc- If you are looking for the famous cosplayers (who nowa- spire you to explore the city. Whether you are traveling to tions, shopping malls offering latest trends and smaller days are as elusive as geisha in Kyoto), I recommend to Tokyo for the first time, or are a returning visitor, I hope shops selling kitschy merchandise, restaurants with en- time your visit on a weekend afternoon. you’ll discover something new for yourself here. Don’t try ticing signs and plastic food displays. Take Hachiko Exit Omotesando Avenue is often referred to as Champs Ely- to cram as much as possible into your itinerary. Japan is from the Shibuya Station to see the statue dedicated to the see of Tokyo, with luxury shopping and restaurants. There a place to be savored, observed, admired, and pondered. famous dog. L’Occitane Café as well as Starbucks on the are also a number of interesting galleries to check out. Even in the mad rush of Tokyo, try to go slow, let your curi- opposite side provide great vantage points of the cross- For a comprehensive guide, refer to my Top 10 Things To osity wander, observe and soak it all in. Follow the links in ing. Another great spot for the aerial view of the Scramble each subsection to get an in-depth information about each is the 25th floor of the Shibuya Excel Hotel Tokyu. It’s a place. floor that houses the hotel’s restaurants and is open to the SEE TOKYO ON PAGE 10 10 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JANUARY 11 − JANUARY 17, 2019

Asakusa CONTINUED FROM PAGE 9 TOKYO

Do in Harajuku & Omotesando at www. and has quite a few points of interest billboards blind you with its neon glow travelwithnanob.com. The neighborhood including the famous Ramen Street and and waitresses dressed up in frilly maid Roppongi harmoniously links to Aoyama, which the Character Street (shops selling mer- costumes are passing out the flyers. grants more opportunities to empty your chandise for Hello Kitty, Pokemon, and There’s certainly a lot to take in, but wallet and satiate your appetite. It’s also so much more). it’s a cultural experience like no other. home to Nezu Museum, home to a trea- sure trove of more than seven thousand AKIHABARA ROPPONGI examples of pre-modern art from across Akihabara is a hub for all things This district has two faces: during the Japan and East Asia, from calligraphy quirky, cutting edge and extraordinary. day time it has a thriving art scene and is and metalwork to sculpture and tea cer- It’s a place for geeks to share their gam- bustling with salarymen rushing to work, emony tools, all painstakingly collected ing passions and indulge in their preoc- while at night it turns into the cosmopoli- by the Japanese industrialist Kaichiro cupations. Home for Japanese contempo- tan nightlife center where expats like to Nezu until his death in 1940. rary sub-cultures such as manga comics party in clubs and karaoke bars. Tokyo and anime cartoons, Akihabara draws Tower, the symbol of the city, is not to be crowds of so-called otaku geeks. As soon missed (Zojoji Temple nearby has a very GINZA ASAKUSA, UENO, TOKYO SKYTREE Ginza needs no introduction, it is an For a glimpse at Tokyo of yesteryear as you step outside the train station, your good view), while houses uber-luxurious neighborhood with one head to Asakusa. This is one of the oldest senses are assaulted from all directions the Mori Art Museum as well as observa- of the best restaurants and shops seed- and most extensive neighborhoods in the – speakers scream out Japanese pop, tion deck. ing its streets. Don’t miss the newly metropolis that brings together cultural opened Ginza Six, if not for its designer sights, dining and entertainment in vi- boutiques then for the installation by brant surroundings that are historic and Yayoi Kusama in its main hall. Ginza modern at the same time. There’s plenty Ginza also boasts with one of the best bars in to do and see in Asakusa, like visiting the town – think intimate basement spaces 17th-century Shinto shrine Senso-ji or with subtle music, dim lights and arti- shopping in Kappabashi Kitchen Town. san cocktails. Tip: on weekends a part It would make sense to end the day at of Ginza Avenue turns into a pedestrian Tokyo SkyTree, the tallest tower in the street, making it a very pleasant spot to world, which not only offers wonderful take a stroll. views of the entire city, but houses enter- tainment complex which includes aquar- ium, shops, restaurants, etc.. Located in Tokyo Bay, this artificial and ultramodern island is one of the IMPERIAL PALACE, MARUNOCHI most popular sites among locals and DISTRICT AND TOKYO STATION tourists alike for a reason: it has it all. Marunochi is a super sleek business From flamboyant and futuristic-looking center of Tokyo that gets a dose of royal architecture to an array of amusement zen from the Imperial Palace grounds spots, shopping malls and restaurants located nearby. While you cannot access — this destination in Tokyo even has the Imperial Palace (since it is still an its own Statue of Liberty. Regardless active residence of the Emperor and his of what season you’re visiting, Odaiba family), you can tour its stunning garden is the perfect year-round day trip for in the east. Tokyo Station reminds me geeks, budding architects, families and of the Grand Central Station, it is huge shopaholics alike. JANUARY 11 − JANUARY 17, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES JAPAN 11

gends head rock le to Toky dian o in na Feb Ca .

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082-249-3571; Tokyo, Apr. 3, 7 p.m., Showa Wom- Maroon 5 en’s University Hitomi Memorial Hall, 15,000- Tokyo, Feb. 25, 7 p.m., Tokyo Dome, 10,000- 16,000 yen, Apr. 5, 7 p.m., Tokyo Dome City Hall, 12,000-15,000-38,000 yen; Udo 03-3402-5999. 15,000-16,000 yen; Udo 03-3402-5999 or visit Ticket Pia (http://w.pia.jp), Lawson Ticket (http://l- Yellowjackets tike.com/) or eplus (http://eplus.jp/). Tokyo, Feb. 26 & 27, 6:30 & 9 p.m., Cotton Club, 7,800-9,000 yen; 03-3215-1555. Rufus Wainwright Tokyo, Mar. 28 & 29, 7 p.m., Tokyo International Fo- Pale Waves rum Hall C, 10,000 yen; Udo 03-3402-5999 or visit Tokyo, Feb. 27, 7 p.m., Ebisu Liquidroom, 6,500 Ticket Pia (http://w.pia.jp), Lawson Ticket (http://l- yen; Creativeman 03-3499-6669. tike.com/) or eplus (http://eplus.jp/).

MAE Tokyo, Mar. 17, 6 p.m., Shibuya WWW X, 6,000 yen; Smash 03-3444-6751. 12 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JANUARY 11 − JANUARY 17, 2019

Hiroshima’s Peace Park is emotional trip of a lifetime BY LANCE PESCOSO, clothes donated by the victim’s ECHOES (KINNICK HS NEWSPAPER) families. Each of these exhibits has a tale; each tale has a vic- NAVAL BASE – As tim. an American stepping into the Knowing that Americans – Peace Museum in the heart of my people, my home – dropped Hiroshima’s Peace Park, I have a bomb that caused all this dev- never felt more like a stranger astation as a means to ending to this foreign land. World War II in The word “stranger” is the Pacific makes almost not any American enough how- deserving of the ever, as for title “murder- the first time, COMMENTARY er.” I faced the But when I asked a young countless images of innocent Japanese man in the park nick- people with seared flesh, tear- named Rara-Chan about who filled eyes and faces pleading was to blame for the tragedy, he “make the pain stop.” said, “This is everybody’s fault, Few survivors of the attack I think. Everybody decided to are still alive, and the only have a war, and this is the con- things that remain to tell the sequence.” story of their last moments are I visited the Peace Mu- the trinkets, toys and scraps of seum during an outing in

Stripes Japan is A Stars and Stripes Community Publication. This newspaper is authorized for publication by the Department of Defense for members of the military services overseas. However, the contents of Stripes Japan are unofficial, and are not to be considered as the official views of, or endorsed by, the U.S. government, including the Department of Defense or the U.S. Pacific Command. As a DOD newspaper, Stripes Japan may be distributed through official channels and use appropriated funds for distribution to remote and isolated locations where overseas DOD personnel are located. The appearance of advertising in this publication, including inserts or supplements, does not constitute endorsement of those products by the Department of Defense or Stars and Stripes. Products or services advertised in this publication shall be made available for purchase, use, or patronage without regard to race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age, Japanese school students visit the Peace Memorial Park in Hiroshima in November. marital status, physical handicap, political affiliation, or any other nonmerit factor of the purchaser, user, or patron. The park is an attractive tourist destination which hosts more than 1 million visitors a year. Photo by Makenzi Schmitz, MC Perry High School JANUARY 11 − JANUARY 17, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES JAPAN 13

The Atomic Bomb Dome is part of the Peace Memorial Park in Hiroshima. The building which is one of few still standing after the attack is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is a memorial to more than 100,000 people who died. Photo by Rachel McIntosh, Humphreys High School

The Peace Memorial Park in Hiroshima is a site dedicated to the eradication of A photo of a Japanese soldier who died three days after the attack nuclear weapons. Colored streams and the beautiful billboard call for peace. shows the horrific injuries suffered by the victims in the blast. Photo by Photo by Rebecca Holladay, Yokota High School Lance Pescosco, Kinnick High School

November as part of the fountain, awaiting the day Department of Defense when the world will no longer Education Far-East Jour- know the threat of atomic an- nalism Conference. nihilation. Despite my parents being A Belgian visitor to the park stationed in Japan at Yokosuka named Edith claimed that the Naval Base, this was my first most impactful monument was time to visit the Peace Park, the A-Bomb Dome, the only re- which beckons tourists world- maining structure near ground wide who seek the true story zero. behind the horrific event that “It is the fact they conserved unfolded Aug. 6, 1945, when it, because they were not sure the Enola Gay detonated a nu- to keep it some years after the clear weapon in the skies above bomb,” she said. the city killing at least 126,000 At the base of the monument, people, mostly civilians. I watched children no older In 2016, nearly 2-million than 10 run and play, complete- people visited the park, making ly unaware that just 73 years it one of the most visited tourist ago more than 100,000 lives destinations in the world, with were lost here in an instant. many things to see that makes “They are not so frightened it a one in a lifetime experi- of this time,” said Edith, re- ence. marking on the children play- Right after you exit the Mu- ing. seum, visitors will see a curved What I learned in just a few stone structure across a field. hours in Hiroshima is more This houses the flower adorned than I ever could have learned Cenotaph, a monument etched about the bombing and after- with the names of all the vic- math in school. These grounds tims whose lives were claimed are more than a park. They by the bomb. are the echoes of those lives In the eye of the monument snuffed out in an instant and rests the Peace Flame which the enduring spirit of a people sits in the middle of a square to overcome tragedy.

+81 (3) 5441-9800 14 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JANUARY 11 − JANUARY 17, 2019

Gambino Model. Photo courtesy of Kyle Hedlund

Feed the need for speed in

JAPAN TRAVEL drinking non-alcoholic beer and snacks. There are several arbor Circuit in tables with great window seat- Chiba City is an ing of the track so if you prefer ADDRESS: 2F Harbor Circuit, Chiba set any records the first time indoor kart track H to watch you can have just as Sports Plaza, 13-26 Dezuminato, round, completing the course where you can get your much fun. There is no liquor Chuo-ku, Chiba will bring satisfaction, relieve pulse racing and quench TEL: 043-441-3243 (Japanese only) served as racers are not per- stress, and even provide a good your need for speed. The EMAIL:Harbor [email protected] Circuit mitted to drive after drinking. URL: http://www.harbor-circuit. workout. Once you try, you’ll be facility is based on similar com/2014english.asp hooked. venues in the UK, the home of indoor karting. First- Prices start at 1,980 yen for a timers shouldn’t worry—all single 6-minute ticket, with sig- Weekdays - 2 p.m. - 11:30 p.m. gear is available for rent nificant savings for buying in guardian/parent or for younger Weekend & Holidays - 10 a.m. The leaderboard. and you don’t even need Photo courtesy of Harbor CircuitHarborbulk Circuit(i.e. three tickets for 5,200; age riders renting a kart for the Courses and pricing - 11:30 p.m. (If weekday after a driver’s license. All you five for 7,800; 8 for 10,500). first time. holiday, we close at 9:30 p.m.) need is a spark of curiosity. Group races of 5 or more peo- SundayHours - 10 and a.m. -specials 9:30 p.m. (If Anyone over 130cm tall ple run 4,200 per entrant for the Course summaries holiday on Monday, open until (regardless of age) can and Mini Grand Prix and 5,500 per (6 minute race) 11:30 p.m.) manufactured Indoor by France’s entrant for the Sprint GrandKarting • Bambino (4 years old and up • Final admission accepted 30 premier kart-maker. Top Prix. You can even reserve the - 1,000 yen minutes before close. We are speeds reach up to 50 km/h! whole course for 47,000 yen per • Junior Kart - 1,480 yen normally open every day.​ Seats and pedals are adjust- hour on weekdays and 63,000 • Adult Kart - 1,980 yen • Every Wednesday is Ladies able for your comfort, so for- per hour at weekend and holi- • Group Race - 4,200 yen Day! Girls can enjoy the first eigners need not be too con- days. A trial pack for new ad- – Admission to the facility is session for 1,000 yen! cerned about the mission includes just 500 yen, and if you men- fit. There is also the license fee tion Metropolis magazine a smaller kart and 3 minutes for they will waive that fee! tailored for those 1,500 yen. – Most credit cards are accept- • Driver Pass: admission fee twelve and un- Harbor Cir- ed. for 500 yen. No annual fee. der. Mounted cuit is especially • Sport shoes (no sandals) with the Honda GX160 engine, designed for families and chil- • We recommendDriving wearing long- the ‘FunKid’ is chain-driven, dren with numerous packages. Safety is a top priority, sleevedrequirements shirts and full length meaning it runs quietly enough Parents and children (under with crash prevention brake pants to keep little eardrums intact. 19) can buy tickets together at lamps and coverings on en- • Free rental service of helmet A real-time ranking system 3,200 yen for two. A child ticket gines and mufflers to prevent and face mask. You can bring Feel the excitement. Safety Photo courtesy of Kyle Hedlund allows groups of friends or for a six-minute ride can be pur- burns. This all makes it easier your own helmet with full family to compete against each chased for 1,480 yen (children to fly round Harbor Circuit’s face and visor other, and for individuals to must be in elementary school pumping course layout, com- • Customers may also purchase race against their personal best and over 118 cm tall. Newly plete with its flying junction their own face mask for 500 times. Endurance races and added is a special “Bambino” and tunnel. Sharp corners and yen (optional) time trials are held periodically type electric kart designed for twisty turns test even the most • Gloves are not necessary but at Harbor Circuit and are open ages 4 and up. As these carts experienced drivers, yet it’s we also have free rental ser- to the public.​ can hold two people, there are beginner-friendly, too. Though vice (or feel free to bring your Enjoy the down time by perfect for children who need a first-timers probably won’t own)

Colors change as you travel around. Photo courtesy of Kyle Hedlund Photo courtesy of Kyle Hedlund JANUARY 11 − JANUARY 17, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES JAPAN 15

The last 5 NFL teams to lose one game or less in the regular season have all failed to win the Super Bowl. Most notably, of course, is the 2007 Patriots - the 2nd team to ever finish the regular season undefeated. Can you name the most recent team to finish with one loss that failed to win the Big Game?

Stripes Sports Trivia(2015) Panthers Carolina

Answer

Week of 1/7/19 - 1/13/19

The Weekly Crossword by Margie E. Burke ACROSS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 Conn. neighbor 1 14 15 16 5 Herringlike fishes 17 18 19 10 Leave in, to an editor 20 21 22 14 Ancient Andean 23 24 DID YOU 15 "Water Lilies" painter 25 26 27 28 KNOW? Fiesta fare 16 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 17 Go to great heights 36 37 38 18 Itsy-bitsy bits 39 40 41 19 How one might run 42 43 44 kinawa and Hawaii have a 20 Spanish strong tie. It dates back to a gentleman 45 46 47 48 49 group of 27 immigrants that 22 Mac maker 50 51 52 53 54 Oleft Okinawa in 1899. The number 23 Wife, jokingly 55 56 57 of Okinawans in Hawaii continued 25 Hindu soul 28 Aspen 58 59 60 growing from there. Today, there aficionado are thought to be 45,000 to 50,000 29 Word after 61 62 63 Okinawan descendants living in the pocket or loose Copyright 2019 by The Puzzle Syndicate state. 31 Deliberate destruction 2 Forest ox 35 Mysterious: Var. 47 Snorkeling sight 36 They may be 3 Wound covering 37 Guaranteed 48 Hostile force pulled 4 Minuet-like 40 Russian urn 49 Have a hunch 38 Dilbert's dances 43 Diego Rivera 52 Music category workspace 5 Clothing size creations 53 Spotify selection 39 Erotic 6 Monopoly 45 Weighty put- 54 Hearty dish 41 Early English purchases down 56 URL punctuator Kanji of comedy, "____ 7 Polar parkas 46 1979 sci-fi Gurton's Needle" 8 Possessed one classic 42 "Get lost!" 9 Ave. crossers the week Minuscule Kind of infection Ichi/Shi (City/Market) 44 10 市 45 Accept 11 Buccaneers' responsibility home Answers to Last Week’s Crossword: 50 Unaccompanied 12 Reason for a 51 Weatherman food recall L A M P O T T E R S N A P Language Lesson offerings 13 Representative A R E A B R I D E P A R A 55 Lose steam 21 Spiny lobster S U D S T I E I N E V I L 56 Parlor piece 22 Like Cirque du S M A S H U P T O P L E S S 57 Beat badly Soleil performers L O O S E N V O L L E Y Can you hear me? 58 Clothing line 24 Fix, in a way S A L U T E O R A T E 59 Certain exams 25 Plays a part E L I T E S U E T R U S T 60 Frank Herbert 26 Quaker's "you" C O O L E A R N E D N O R Week of 1/7/19 - 1/13/19 sci-fi series 27 "Death in T E N D S L I T E N D U E 61 Nothing but Venice" author R O O T S S L E E P Y Kikoe masuka? 62 To the point 30 Son of Cain S T R A I T H A T T E R 63 A whole bunch 32 They're punched L E A F L E T R E A D M I T at work U N I T R U L E R F I R E DOWN 33 Top of the heap N O S E I N A N E U N I X 1 Catchall abbr. 34 Secluded valley K N E E C A C A O L E S T

SUDOKU Edited by Margie E. Burke

Difficulty: Easy HOW TO SOLVE: 8 6 9 Each row must contain the numbers 1 to 9; each column must contain the numbers 1 to 9; and 7 1 6 each set of 3 by 3 boxes must 3 2 contain the numbers 1 to 9. George Paramount 6 Answers to Last Week’s Sudoku: 1 6 2 3 5 9 7 4 8 SS51511 6 2 8 7 9 3 4 8 6 5 1 2 5 8 4 2 1 7 9 6 3 Sudoku AD 9 5 3 4 2 8 9 7 1 3 5 6 9 2 3 9 1 5 6 3 8 4 2 7 5.9x3 6 3 7 5 4 2 1 8 9 1 6 8 7 9 1 6 5 2 3 4 1 5 7 3 5 6 7 2 4 8 9 1 Copyright 2019 by The Puzzle Syndicate 2 4 1 8 9 3 6 7 5

16 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JANUARY 11 − JANUARY 17, 2019

Neat the bottom of the path

Kitayamazaki and Unosu Cliffs offer breathtaking views in national park

STORY AND PHOTOS BY 1 hour and start from Tsukue MALCOME LARCENS, Fishing port, it costs 3500 yen JAPAN TRAVEL GETTING THERE From Morioka, take Route 106 to Miyako or the Yamada Line per person with a minimum of 2 people. If you want to go on your he Sanriku Coast stretch- from Morioka Station, the trains runs only a few times a day. From es from Miyagi Prefec- Miyako, take Route 45 north towards Kuji. Both Unosu Cliffs and own, you have to pay 7000 yen. Kitayamazaki are accessible from Route 45, the coastal highway. You can find more information ture in the south to Ao- IWATE T Unosu, is about 30 minutes north of Miyako and Kitayamazaki PREF. here; www.tanohata-taiken.jp/ mori Prefecture in the north. It is is about 1 hour north on Route 44 off Route 45. You could inbound/en/cruise.html renowned for its jagged coastline also take the Sanriku Railway from Miyako but you would and its many beautiful bays and need to walk a lot or take a taxi from the station. I think About halfway between Unosu vistas. Kitayamazaki and Un- the Sanriku Railway should be a trip by itself. By and Kitayamazaki is hotel Raga- osu Cliffs are among the most car, is definitely the best way to get there so, it’s built right on the shore of impressive parts of the the Pacific Ocean, it commands coast. Jodogahama Beach an incredible view of the sea. It is also another great place would be a perfect place to watch to visit. the sunset from your room or the The Sanriku Fukko Na- bath. They have a public bath tional Park was created available to anyone for only 400 after the Great East Japan you’ll see a big sign on yen located on the 4th floor with Earthquake, the goal is to Route 45 to indicate the crashing on the rocks and feel huge windows looking at the sea. promote the Sanriku area turn off. the power of the ocean. The low- Even though most people have and help with the rebuild- Before or after head- est platform was washed out by baths in the afternoon or evening, ing efforts. It’s called a ing to see the cliffs, I the tsunami in March 2011, it’s it would be amazing to watch the Geopark based on all the recommend that you still worth the walk down. sunrise soaking in the hot bath. diversity of landscape and sample some of the Another option is to take a boat terrain. The area includes fresh seafood available cruise to get a closer look at beaches, cliffs, caves Lunch at Kitayamazaki at the restaurant near the rock formations. The and many hot springs. At the tourist area. De- tours run from April about the same time, the Unosu is about 5 kilometers pending on the season 11 to November 3. government started building the from Route 45, the coastal high- you might be able to enjoy fresh The boat cruise Michinoku Coastal trail, it will go way that runs from to oysters, scallops, sea urchin takes about from Hachinohe to Fukushima Hachinohe. The turn off is easy (uni), sauri (sanma) or salmon. when completed. The general to miss since they made some All caught the same day or the area of the park is from Hachi- changes to the road. You’ll see a day before. I had the scallop set, nohe, to Ishi- couple of steel grain silos near it was so fresh. nomaki, . The the road, follow that road. From There are 3 spots that you can Sanriku area is rich in natural the parking lot, it’s a 5-10 minute view Kitamiyazaki from, the top, resources, from great seafood, walk to the cliffs. If you’re feeling you can see the main rock from farming and to the start of mod- adventurous, you can take the a safe distance. Lookout two is ern day steel smelting in Kamai- walking trail that will take you about 360 steps down and gives shi. down to water level. It’s a 45 min- you a nice panoramic view. Tanohata is a small village ute walk. We didn’t have enough Lookout three is at sea lev- north of Miyako and is home time to walk when I was there. el, you can feel the waves to both Unosu Cliffs and Kita- On the other hand, Kita- yamazaki. The population of yamazaki is much easier to Tanohata is only about 3500 peo- find. You take Route 44 ple making it one of the smallest and follow the coast, villages in Japan. Don’t let the size deter you from visiting it, you will enjoy great seafood and breathtaking vistas.

Kitayamazaki from the second lookout