Austrian Paprika Beef Stew | Crispy Chicken Under a Brick Spicy-Sweet Pulled Pork | Maple-Whiskey Pudding Cake ◆ THE NEW HOME COOKING JANUARY – FEBRUARY 2019 ◆ Sicily’s Simple Pastas Three recipes that will change the way you cook Kitchen Guide: Roasted Vegetables … Browned Butter Brussels Sprouts 19_0102_MSM_FrontCover.indd 1 11/27/18 3:32 PM ◆ January–February 2019 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine The New Home Cooking ◆ RECIPE INDEX Potato and Eggplant Tortilla Española Time and deeply browned potato improve Spain’s eggy tortilla ������������������������������������7 Ropa Vieja An onion-pepper-tomato braise produces fork-tender flank steak ������������������������������� 8 Slashed Chicken Andrea Nguyen cuts to the bone for more flavorful chicken legs ����������������������������������9 Lentils with Feta and Parsley .............Page 6 Sicily’s Simplest, Boldest Pastas Chorizo and Potato Hash ....................Page 4 Fresh herbs and nuts brighten a trio of Italian pastas that are ready in minutes ������������10 Persian Jeweled Rice (Javaher Polow) Pistachios, saffron and cranberries add color to a beloved Iranian rice dish �����������������14 Georgian-Style Chicken under a Brick (Tsitsila Tabaka) To get the crispiest skin, put some pressure on your bird �����������������������������������������15 Apple-Fennel Salad with Candied Pecans Pink peppercorns and spiced nuts elevate Alon Shaya’s weeknight salad ���������������������16 Oaxacan Refried Black Beans The start of a dip, a soup, a spread—with refried beans, the possibilities are endless ������ 17 Pork and Kimchi Stew (Kimchi Jjigae) Korea’s spicy-savory stew requires little more than simmering ����������������������������������� 20 Ancho Chili Salsa Roja Maple-Whiskey Pudding Cakes ........Page 29 Blend ancho chilies and aromatics to make a versatile earthy-smoky salsa �������������������21 Miso-Gochujang Pulled Pork ............Page 22 Shaved Brussels Sprouts with Browned Butter Vinaigrette For a better vinaigrette—and a better slaw—swap oil for nutty browned butter ������������21 Miso-Gochujang Pulled Pork Two boldly flavored Asian ingredients transform traditional pulled pork ��������������������22 Austrian Beef Stew with Paprika and Caraway (Rindsgulasch) Inspired by Salzburg’s goulash, a saucy beef stew mixes hot and sweet paprika ������������24 Coconut Milk-Flour Tortillas Coconut milk and a bit of sugar are key to tender, easy-to-make Honduran tortillas �����26 Spiced Butter Popcorn How to improve the ultimate simple snack? Flavor the fat �����������������������������������������28 Maple-Whiskey Pudding Cakes Neither pudding nor classic cake, pudding cakes bake up with their own sauce �����������29 Chicken Under a Brick ...........................Page 15 Red and White Miso Broths Shaved Brussels Sprouts .................Page 21 Skip time-consuming stock and use a flavorful five-minute broth instead �������������������31 [ EVERY I SSUE] Meze: Lessons and discoveries from Milk Street ������������������������������������������������������ 2 Tuesday Nights at Milk Street: Casual dinners� Fast� ����������������������������������������������4 Three-for-One: Lentils ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������6 Kitchen Counts: Perfectly seasoned roasted vegetables ��������������������������������������������28 Off the Air: Questions from Milk Street Radio, answered �����������������������������������������30 Kitchen Cabinet: Nik Sharma’s secret for silkier homemade crème fraîche �����������������32 Book Reviews ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������32 Sketchbook: Six spice blends for fast, easy flavoring ����������������������������������������������33 Front Cover Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Catherine Smart Pasta with Pistachios....................... Page 12 Front Cover Illustration: Bill Sanderson; Back Cover Photo: Christopher Warde-Jones Ancho Chili Salsa Roja .....................Page 21 Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street in downtown Boston—at 177 Milk Street—is home how we cook by searching the world for bold, simple recipes and techniques that to our editorial offices and cooking school. It is also where we recordChristopher are adapted and tested for home cooks everywhere. For more information, go to Kimball’s Milk Street television and radio shows. Milk Street is devoted to changing 177MilkStreet.com. 19_0102_MSM_TOC.indd 2 11/28/18 1:04 PM January–February 2019 [ EDITOR’S NOTE] C hristopher K imball Three Days in Beirut President and Founder Christopher Kimball Media Director and Co-Founder hen you travel tried kanafeh, made with a sweet Melissa Baldino with a video crew, their cheese filling and shredded toasted Editorial Director - J.M. Hirsch Food Editor - Matthew Card equip ment has to be phyllo dough. And, at a dinner up Art Director - Jennifer Baldino Cox Managing Editor - Jenn Ladd checked through a spe- the coast, I was treated to shrimp Books & Special Editions Editor - Michelle Locke W Recipe Editor - Dawn Yanagihara cial import control called Carnet on ice, fattoush and freshly grilled Staff Writer - Albert Stumm (kar-NAY) or, in plain English, an fish, the small ones eaten whole. Science Editor - Guy Crosby Magazine Design - Joe Dizney import/export license for expensive On the second day, I met food Production Manager - A.K. Summers gear. This process is the polar oppo- activist Kamal Mouzawak. He grew Associate Art Directors - Brianna Coleman, Devin Sullivan site of traveling with carry-ons. Our up in a small town in the mountains Director of Recipe Development - Diane Unger cases must be hauled off the luggage north of Beirut during the civil war. Kitchen Director - Erin Register Senior Recipe Developer - Erika Bruce carousel and taken to a hard-to-find At his main restaurant, he invites Recipe Developers - Courtney Hill, Phoebe Maglathlin, Julia Rackow office. Then the bureaucracy kicks in. cooks from small villages all over Contributing Recipe Developers - Bianca Borges, Lynn Clark, Laura Russell The Carnet list is checked methodi- Lebanon to cook their food for his Culinary Assistants - Rose Hattabaugh, cally against our equipment. customers. That day, the cook made Angie Marvin Director of Education - Rosemary Gill During a recent trip to Beirut, fish taginia, sheikh il-mahshi (stuffed Culinary Instructors - Josh Mamaclay, the pipe-smoking official ensconced eggplant), kibbeh shinat (small Catherine Smart, Liz Vena Media Relations Director - Deborah Broide in his well-appointed office was pouches filled with meat, spices and Brand Development - Christopher Johnson Vice President of Marketing - David Mack charming and welcoming, a Lebanese Omar Sharif. onion) and roasted cauliflower with onions, garlic, Director of Underwriting - Lisa Hensiek The pleasant encounter was a prelude to my experi- cilantro, tomato paste and salt. Television and Video Producer - Carly Helmetag Radio Producer - Annie Sinsabaugh ence of Lebanon’s capital. In a country with over 1 million refugees among Associate Producer - Jackie Noack Digital Marketing Manager - Stephanie Menezes Before I arrived, what I remembered about Leb- an indigenous population of just 4 million, many Digital Content Director - Evan Petto Digital Content Coordinator - Lian Parsons anon was the civil war there that spanned from Lebanese might cry for the beloved country, but Digital Content Editor - Alison Spiegel Executive Assistant - Christine Gordon 1975 to 1990, the bombing of the Marine barracks Mouzawak sees nothing but hope. Organizing farm- Dir. of Culinary Engagement - Jacqueline Grady Smith Office Manager - Maria DeRobertis under Reagan, and the fact that it was once called ers markets, suppliers and cooks, he is optimistic Circulation Director - Stuart Jordan Circulation Manager - Beth Freeman Reynolds the “garden of the Middle East.” None of this pre- about food as an agent of change, of community and Business Consultant - Matt Sutton pared me for what to expect. of the future. His passion burns bright. He offers the Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Magazine (ISSN 2473-7305), number 13, is published bimonthly by Instead, I found a gorgeous seaside setting, roll- proposition that one person can change the world. CPK Media LLC, 177 Milk Street, Boston, MA 02109. Copyright 2018 CPK Media LLC. Periodicals postage ing hills landscaped with look-alike white multi- On my last night in Beirut, I was invited to a paid at Boston, MA and additional mailing offices. POST- story buildings rising up from the Mediterranean, a wedding reception by a Lebanese friend and Boston MASTER: Send address changes to Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Magazine, P.O. Box 37338, Boone, IA 50037- Fred Astaire Dance Studio, a rash of KFC billboards, restaurateur, Mohamad El Zein (of Moona in Cam- 0338. For subscription and gift subscription orders, subscription inquiries or change-of-address notices, half-ruined buildings pockmarked with bullet holes, bridge), who also served as our guide. The reception go to service.milkstreetmagazine.com or write to us at Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street, P.O. Box 37338, balcony apartments shaded by raggedy white cur- was at a small but resplendent restaurant, Em Sharif. Boone, IA 50037-0338. tains, and frequent military checkpoints. (See photos Amidst gilded fixtures, I was introduced to men in Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Cooking School offers cooking instruction at 177 Milk Street in of my trip to Beirut at 177milkstreet.com/beirut.)