Austrian Paprika Beef Stew | Crispy Chicken Under a Brick Spicy-Sweet Pulled Pork | Maple-Whiskey Pudding Cake

◆ THE NEW HOME COOKING JANUARY – FEBRUARY 2019 ◆ Sicily’s Simple Pastas Three recipes that will change the way you cook

Kitchen Guide: Roasted Vegetables … Browned Butter Brussels Sprouts

19_0102_MSM_FrontCover.indd 1 11/27/18 3:32 PM ◆ January–February 2019 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine The New Home Cooking ◆ RECIPE INDEX

Potato and Eggplant Tortilla Española Time and deeply browned potato improve Spain’s eggy tortilla ������������������������������������7 Ropa Vieja An onion-pepper-tomato braise produces fork-tender flank steak ������������������������������� 8 Slashed Chicken Andrea Nguyen cuts to the bone for more flavorful chicken legs ����������������������������������9 Lentils with Feta and Parsley...... Page 6 Sicily’s Simplest, Boldest Pastas Chorizo and Potato Hash...... Page 4 Fresh herbs and nuts brighten a trio of Italian pastas that are ready in minutes ������������10 Persian Jeweled Rice (Javaher Polow) Pistachios, saffron and cranberries add color to a beloved Iranian rice dish �����������������14 Georgian-Style Chicken under a Brick (Tsitsila Tabaka) To get the crispiest skin, put some pressure on your bird �����������������������������������������15 Apple-Fennel Salad with Candied Pecans Pink peppercorns and spiced nuts elevate Alon Shaya’s weeknight salad ���������������������16 Oaxacan Refried Black Beans The start of a dip, a soup, a spread—with refried beans, the possibilities are endless ������ 17 Pork and Kimchi Stew (Kimchi Jjigae) Korea’s spicy-savory stew requires little more than simmering ����������������������������������� 20 Ancho Chili Salsa Roja Maple-Whiskey Pudding Cakes...... Page 29 Blend ancho chilies and aromatics to make a versatile earthy-smoky salsa �������������������21 Miso-Gochujang Pulled Pork...... Page 22 Shaved Brussels Sprouts with Browned Butter Vinaigrette For a better vinaigrette—and a better slaw—swap oil for nutty browned butter ������������21 Miso-Gochujang Pulled Pork Two boldly flavored Asian ingredients transform traditional pulled pork ��������������������22 Austrian Beef Stew with Paprika and Caraway (Rindsgulasch) Inspired by Salzburg’s goulash, a saucy beef stew mixes hot and sweet paprika ������������24 Coconut Milk-Flour Tortillas Coconut milk and a bit of sugar are key to tender, easy-to-make Honduran tortillas �����26 Spiced Butter Popcorn How to improve the ultimate simple snack? Flavor the fat �����������������������������������������28 Maple-Whiskey Pudding Cakes Neither pudding nor classic cake, pudding cakes bake up with their own sauce �����������29 Chicken Under a Brick...... Page 15 Red and White Miso Broths Shaved Brussels Sprouts...... Page 21 Skip time-consuming stock and use a flavorful five-minute broth instead �������������������31 [ EVERY I SSUE] Meze: Lessons and discoveries from Milk Street ������������������������������������������������������ 2 Tuesday Nights at Milk Street: Casual dinners. Fast. ����������������������������������������������4 Three-for-One: Lentils ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������6 Kitchen Counts: Perfectly seasoned roasted vegetables ��������������������������������������������28 Off the Air: Questions from Milk Street Radio, answered �����������������������������������������30 Kitchen Cabinet: Nik Sharma’s secret for silkier homemade crème fraîche �����������������32 Book Reviews ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������32 Sketchbook: Six spice blends for fast, easy flavoring ����������������������������������������������33

Front Cover Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Catherine Smart Pasta with Pistachios...... Page 12 Front Cover Illustration: Bill Sanderson; Back Cover Photo: Christopher Warde-Jones Ancho Chili Salsa Roja...... Page 21

Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street in downtown Boston—at 177 Milk Street—is home how we cook by searching the world for bold, simple recipes and techniques that to our editorial offices and cooking school. It is also where we recordChristopher are adapted and tested for home cooks everywhere. For more information, go to Kimball’s Milk Street television and radio shows. Milk Street is devoted to changing 177MilkStreet.com.

19_0102_MSM_TOC.indd 2 11/28/18 1:04 PM January–February 2019

[ EDITOR’S NOTE] C hristopher K imball Three Days in Beirut President and Founder Christopher Kimball Media Director and Co-Founder hen you travel tried kanafeh, made with a sweet Melissa Baldino with a video crew, their cheese filling and shredded toasted Editorial Director - J.M. Hirsch Food Editor - Matthew Card equip­ment has to be phyllo dough. And, at a dinner up Art Director - Jennifer Baldino Cox Managing Editor - Jenn Ladd checked through a spe- the coast, I was treated to shrimp Books & Special Editions Editor - Michelle Locke W Recipe Editor - Dawn Yanagihara cial import control called Carnet on ice, fattoush and freshly grilled Staff Writer - Albert Stumm (kar-NAY) or, in plain English, an fish, the small ones eaten whole. Science Editor - Guy Crosby Magazine Design - Joe Dizney import/export license for expensive On the second day, I met food Production Manager - A.K. Summers gear. This process is the polar oppo- activist Kamal Mouzawak. He grew Associate Art Directors - Brianna Coleman, Devin Sullivan site of traveling with carry-ons. Our up in a small town in the mountains Director of Recipe Development - Diane Unger cases must be hauled off the luggage north of Beirut during the civil war. Kitchen Director - Erin Register Senior Recipe Developer - Erika Bruce carousel and taken to a hard-to-find At his main restaurant, he invites Recipe Developers - Courtney Hill, Phoebe Maglathlin, Julia Rackow office. Then the bureaucracy kicks in. cooks from small villages all over Contributing Recipe Developers - Bianca Borges, Lynn Clark, Laura Russell The Carnet list is checked methodi- Lebanon to cook their food for his Culinary Assistants - Rose Hattabaugh, cally against our equipment. customers. That day, the cook made Angie Marvin Director of Education - Rosemary Gill During a recent trip to Beirut, fish taginia, sheikh il-mahshi (stuffed Culinary Instructors - Josh Mamaclay, the pipe-smoking official ensconced eggplant), kibbeh shinat (small Catherine Smart, Liz Vena Media Relations Director - Deborah Broide in his well-appointed office was pouches filled with meat, spices and Brand Development - Christopher Johnson Vice President of Marketing - David Mack charming and welcoming, a Lebanese Omar Sharif. onion) and roasted cauliflower with onions, garlic, Director of Underwriting - Lisa Hensiek The pleasant encounter was a prelude to my experi- cilantro, tomato paste and salt. Television and Video Producer - Carly Helmetag Radio Producer - Annie Sinsabaugh ence of Lebanon’s capital. In a country with over 1 million refugees among Associate Producer - Jackie Noack Digital Marketing Manager - Stephanie Menezes Before I arrived, what I remembered about Leb- an indigenous population of just 4 million, many Digital Content Director - Evan Petto Digital Content Coordinator - Lian Parsons anon was the civil war there that spanned from Lebanese might cry for the beloved country, but Digital Content Editor - Alison Spiegel Executive Assistant - Christine Gordon 1975 to 1990, the bombing of the Marine barracks Mouzawak sees nothing but hope. Organizing farm- Dir. of Culinary Engagement - Jacqueline Grady Smith Office Manager - Maria DeRobertis under Reagan, and the fact that it was once called ers markets, suppliers and cooks, he is optimistic Circulation Director - Stuart Jordan Circulation Manager - Beth Freeman Reynolds the “garden of the Middle East.” None of this pre- about food as an agent of change, of community and Business Consultant - Matt Sutton pared me for what to expect. of the future. His passion burns bright. He offers the Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Magazine (ISSN 2473-7305), number 13, is published bimonthly by Instead, I found a gorgeous seaside setting, roll- proposition that one person can change the world. CPK Media LLC, 177 Milk Street, Boston, MA 02109. Copyright 2018 CPK Media LLC. Periodicals postage ing hills landscaped with look-alike white multi- On my last night in Beirut, I was invited to a paid at Boston, MA and additional mailing offices. POST- story buildings rising up from the Mediterranean, a wedding reception by a Lebanese friend and Boston MASTER: Send address changes to Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Magazine, P.O. Box 37338, Boone, IA 50037- Fred Astaire Dance Studio, a rash of KFC billboards, restaurateur, Mohamad El Zein (of Moona in Cam- 0338. For subscription and gift subscription orders, subscription inquiries or change-of-address notices, half-ruined buildings pockmarked with bullet holes, bridge), who also served as our guide. The reception go to service.milkstreetmagazine.com or write to us at Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street, P.O. Box 37338, balcony apartments shaded by raggedy white cur- was at a small but resplendent restaurant, Em Sharif. Boone, IA 50037-0338. tains, and frequent military checkpoints. (See photos Amidst gilded fixtures, I was introduced to men in Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Cooking School offers cooking instruction at 177 Milk Street in of my trip to Beirut at 177milkstreet.com/beirut.) black suits and white shirts, smoking grandmothers Boston. For our curriculum and schedule, go to 177milkstreet.com/cookingschool. Luxury lives cheek by jowl with poverty. in head scarves and women in clothing as stylish as Milk Street Sessions: Milk Street offers live cooking sessions and interviews with guest chefs, cookbook As for food, there are fancy restaurants that anything along Rue St. Honoré in Paris. We applauded authors and food experts. Check 177milkstreet.com would be at home in London or New York, trendy the bride and groom as they arrived to beating drums for updates. Milk Street Tours: Tours of our Milk Street kitchen are morning bakeries that serve every kind of filled and singing. They were encircled and feted before available on a first-come, first-served basis, usually the first Monday of every month. Reservations required. flatbread, and old-school breakfast cafés such as Al we took a brief pause for food and mingling, followed Contact us at [email protected]. Soussi, where one can get za’atar salad made with by the greatest hits of the 1980s. Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Radio is broadcast weekly on public radio stations nationwide. Our onions, pepper and mint, plus masabaha and fatteh I left in the wee hours feeling well fed and wel- weekly podcast is available on iTunes. For more, go (chickpea salads), eggs awarma with lamb rillette, come. Beirut is the new postmodern city; traditional to milkstreetradio.com. Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Television airs weekly sawda djej (livers with vinaigrette, pomegranate in family and food, and optimistic about its future. on public television stations nationwide. molasses and onion), ful (pureed fava beans) and It welcomes its refugees, it wraps its arms around its Job postings at Milk Street are available at 177milkstreet.com/jobs. bayd ghanam—sautéed goat testicles with a fresh guests and it celebrates its present. To receive free recipes from Milk Street or Christopher Kimball’s Swearing Hill News, sign up at lemon dressing. I was so effusive in my praise of the One of the songs I heard that evening repeats: 177milkstreet.com/newsletter. bayd ghanam that Soussi’s elderly chef/proprietor, “The joy is ours, and this joy has brought us together.” You can write to us at Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street, 177 Milk Street, Boston, MA 02109, or email us your Raji Kebbe, came out to show me the raw testicles; a From Raji Kebbe to Kamal Mouzawak to my friend cooking questions at [email protected]. pair would serve a small army. Mohamad, the joy was indeed being together, even Printed in the U.S.A.

Illustration: John Dykes John Illustration: In one sweet shop in business since the 1880s, I in the troubled garden of the Middle East. ◆

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19_0102_MSM_EdLetter.indd 1 11/27/18 2:21 PM Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine

Meze Small Bites from Milk Street

Sri Lanka’s Answer to Cocktail Nuts t Lankan Filling A Station, a Sri Lankan restaurant in Sydney, we couldn’t resist one of their so-called short eats—deviled Deviled cashews get heat from mustard and red pepper. cashews. The simple starter combines whole Stir until sizzling, 20 to cashews with mustard 45 seconds, then add Matcha seeds, chili powder and 2 cups roasted cashews, Madness, in fresh herbs, all fried briefly 1 teaspoon red pepper in ghee. The gentle spice flakes, 1 teaspoon light Lozenge Form and crunchy seeds perfectly brown sugar and n a recent trip to Japan, balanced the rich, tender ¼ teaspoon cayenne Owe observed firsthand cashews. To make them, (optional). Cook, stirring, the popularity of matcha, in a large pot, crisp 1 cup until the nuts are golden the vivid, verdant powder cilantro leaves in and shiny, about 1 minute. made by grinding down 2 tablespoons coconut oil, Transfer to a medium young green tea leaves. It’s 30 to 60 seconds. Use a bowl and toss with the whisked into hot water to A Lighter, The Best slotted spoon to transfer to cilantro and 1 teaspoon make tea, but it’s also used Brighter Latte Pan for Square a paper towel-lined plate. kosher salt. to flavor countless sweets. Return the pot to medium- ecipes for turmeric Eggs and high and add 2 teaspoons lattes abound online, R mustard seeds. but we hadn’t found a Toasted Seeds packaged option we loved n Japan, small square or until we tried Australia’s Irectangular skillets— Jomeis Fine Foods called makiyakinabe—are Turmeric Latte. Their used to cook eggs for rolled vegan, sugar-free and omelets and sushi. We also gluten-free blend of turmeric, like them for toasting nuts, cinnamon, ginger, black seeds and spices on the pepper and coconut milk stovetop. Their size is ideal powder sweetened with for small quantities, stevia is as delicious as it is and their simple to make. Just steep sides ½ teaspoon blended with prevent hot milk or water, then seeds from mixed with cold or hot milk popping out. produces a rich, warmly Toast over low to moderate spicy drink with a light heat, gently shaking the pan Rectangular and square cinnamon flavor. Order from side to side. Amazon pans are perfect for online ($12 for 48 servings) sells several varieties for toasting nuts, seeds

at jomeisfinefoods.com.au. $20 and up. and spices. Photos: Brianna Coleman (turmeric latte, cashews); Connie Miller of CB Creatives (Japanese pans)

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19_0102_MSM_Meze.indd 2 11/26/18 1:43 PM January–February 2018

“We must have a pie. Stress cannot exist in the presence of a pie.” —D avid M amet

In Kyoto’s Nishiki Market, we snacked on matcha donuts. We enjoyed matcha Tasted & Tested: A Garlicky ice cream while touring the grounds of Tokyo’s Hot Sauce from North Africa Imperial Palace, where the ondiments are more like an ingredient information center sells essential in every than a condiment— paper cups of the cooling C culture—salsa in Mexico, smearing it on vegetables treat. And in Japan’s chutney in India and before roasting, whisking ubiquitous convenience aioli in the Mediterra- it into eggs before stores, we could buy anything nean, to name a few. One scrambling and mixing from matcha Pocky sticks of the most piquant and it into marinades to Oreos with matcha-­ potent we’ve encountered before grilling. flavored cream. For us, is filfel chuma. Deeply these items were mostly savory, powerfully spicy novelties, but we did find and slightly fruity, this one that we kept coming Libyan hot sauce back to: matcha cough combines ground drops. The lozenges have a sweet and hot balanced, bittersweet flavor chilies with that makes them soothing, cumin, caraway, satisfying and mildly From Italy, Spain and France, sweet vermouths for sipping. oil and an eye- addictive. Global.rakuten. popping amount of com/en sells bags of the to the sweet wine and fruit. garlic (some recipes call drops for under $5. Spain’s Savory- In the U.S., sweet vermouths for as many as 20 cloves). At Milk Street, we Sweet Bar Sip have mostly been fodder Filfel chuma was tried several brands— n Barcelona, tapas aren’t fit only for cocktails. But originally crafted by some pastes, some Icomplete without a lately we’ve enjoyed an the Jewish population powders. Our favorite glass of sweet vermouth, array of bottles worthy that resided in Libya was a dark red paste from typically served on ice of sipping solo. Our for centuries before the Israeli spice company with a wedge of orange. favorites include Contratto 1970s. Waves of Jews Neptune (available on We liked it best at Disset Vermouth Bianco, a floral, migrated from the North Amazon, three jars for 17 Graus, a dimly lit lightly sweet white from African nation in the $22). While its flavor was bar with wine Italy ($30); Carpano Antica 19th century, taking the intense—with a strong bottle-­lined Formula, a rich and fiery sauce along with chili flavor with deep walls where the herbal Italian red ($17); them. In recent years, it’s raisiny undertones— classic drink is Noilly Prat, a fruity gained popularity in we found it perfectly served with a and sweet red from France Israel as a transformative palatable as a condiment. Soothe yourself briny, plump ($11); and Lustau, addition to shakshuka, Like harissa, filfel chuma’s with matcha green olive—a a Spanish red with lots of the poached egg dish Tunisian counterpart, cough drops. great counterpoint cherry and caramel ($20). ◆ cooked in a pepper- we like it stirred into tomato sauce. In the lentil and rice dishes, cookbook “Jerusalem,” cooked with onions and Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Television Yotam Ottolenghi warns used as the base for The second season of Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Television cooks to use it carefully. soup, and stirred into is now airing on public television stations around the country. Because of its concen- cooling yogurt to make For more information and to find a station near you, go to trated flavor, he treats it a quick dip. ◆ 177milkstreet.com/tv. ◆ Illustration: John Dykes; Photos: Connie Miller of CB Creatives

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19_0102_MSM_Meze.indd 3 11/26/18 1:43 PM Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine Tuesday Nights

Chorizo and Potato Hash uisado de chorizo con papas inspired Gthis one-skillet dish. Top it with a fried egg to make it heartier. In a large nonstick skillet over medium-­high, heat 2 tablespoons neutral oil until shimmering. Add 1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes (cut into ½-inch cubes) in an even layer and cook until well browned, 4 to 5 minutes, stirring once. Reduce to medium and cook, stirring, until a knife inserted into the largest potato meets no resistance, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate; don᾽t wipe out the pan. Add 1 yellow onion (chopped) and 4 garlic cloves (chopped) to the pan and cook over medium, stirring occasionally, until softened, 4 to 6 minutes. Stir in 2 teaspoons sweet paprika, 2 teaspoons ground cumin, 2 teaspoons Miso-Glazed Salmon dried oregano and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Add Polenta Soup with Crispy 12 ounces fresh chorizo (casings removed, ome of the sweet-savory glaze pinched into bite-­size pieces) and cook, Pancetta and Kale for this salmon is kept aside for serving; S stirring, until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. his is our take on polentina, an drizzle it over the fish or a side of sautéed Pour in ½ cup water, bring to a simmer, then Italian soup that’s similar to a brothy greens. Heat the broiler with a rack about T cover and cook until the bits of chorizo are polenta. In a large pot over medium, sauté 6 inches from the element. Whisk together no longer pink at the center, 4 to 5 minutes. 3 ounces pancetta (thinly sliced) in 1 table- 3 tablespoons white miso, 4 teaspoons Uncover and cook until thickened, 1 to spoon extra-­virgin olive oil until crisp, 6 to honey, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, 2 teaspoons 1 large 2 minutes. Stir in the potatoes and 10 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-­lined mirin, 1½ teaspoons toasted sesame oil jalapeño (stemmed, thinly sliced), then cook, plate; don᾽t wipe out the pot. Add 2 leeks ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper; and measure stirring occasionally, for 1 to 2 minutes. (white and light green parts only, halved and out 2 tablespoons and brush onto the tops Taste and season with salt and pepper. ◆ thinly sliced) and 1 tablespoon minced fresh and sides of four 6-ounce center-cut salmon rosemary, then cook, stirring occasionally, fillets (each 1 to 1¼ inches thick, patted dry). until the leeks are tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Add Let stand at room temperature for 20 minutes. 2 quarts chicken broth, 1½ teaspoons salt Meanwhile, whisk 2 tablespoons water and and ½ teaspoon pepper, scraping up any 1 teaspoon honey into the remaining miso browned bits. Simmer over medium-­high, mixture; set aside. Evenly space the fillets, then stir in 1 bunch lacinato kale (stemmed, skin side down, on an oiled wire rack set in a leaves torn into 1-inch pieces); cook until tender, rimmed baking sheet. Broil until the 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer the kale to a bowl. thickest part of the fillets reaches 110°F to Return the broth to a simmer, then gradually 115°F, or they are nearly opaque when cut whisk in ½ cup coarse yellow cornmeal. into, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a platter and Cook, uncovered, over medium-l­ow until the drizzle with about 2 tablespoons of the miso polenta is tender, about 20 minutes, stirring mixture. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon often and maintaining a slow simmer. Taste sesame seeds (toasted) and 1 scallion and season with salt and pepper. Stir 1∕3 cup (thinly sliced on the diagonal). Serve with drained sweet Peppadew peppers (chopped) the remaining miso mixture. ◆ and 1 teaspoon minced rosemary into the kale. Serve the soup topped with the kale,

All featured recipes make 4 servings crumbled pancetta, more oil and Parmesan. ◆ Photos: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

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19_0102_MSM_TuesNight.indd 4 11/26/18 11:54 AM January–February 2019

Dinner. Fast. Bold. Casual.

Stir-Fried Beef and Ginger Black-Eyed Pea and Sweet with Garlic and Scallions Potato Stew (Ndambe) n saiko cha k᾽nye, a simple but bold n this recipe, adapted from chef and Istir-fry from Cambodia, ginger is treated Iauthor Pierre Thiam, we simmer canned like a vegetable. Toss 1½ pounds beef sirloin black-eyed peas with sweet potatoes to make tips or flank steak (cut into 3-inch pieces with a bold, fresh stew. In a large Dutch oven over the grain, then sliced ½ inch thick against the medium, heat 2 tablespoons coconut oil grain) with ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper. until shimmering. Add 1 large yellow onion In a large skillet over high, heat 1 tablespoon (chopped), 2 teaspoons salt and ½ teaspoon neutral oil until barely smoking. Add half the pepper, then cook, stirring, until light golden meat in a single layer and cook until well brown and softened, 7 to 10 minutes. Stir in browned on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes total, 8 medium garlic cloves (minced) and 2 Fresno turning the slices only once. Transfer to a chilies (stemmed, sliced into thin rings), plate. Repeat with 1 table­spoon oil and the then cook for about 30 seconds. Add three remaining meat. In the same skillet over 14½-ounce cans black-eyed peas (rinsed, medium, heat 1 tablespoon oil until drained), 2 bay leaves and 5 cups water. shimmering. Add 6 ounces fresh ginger Bring to a simmer over medium-high, then (peeled, sliced into very thin coins) and reduce to medium and cook, uncovered, cook, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, Toasted Couscous with stirring occasionally, until the flavors meld, about 2 minutes. Add 4 medium garlic cloves Chicken and Chickpeas about 15 minutes. Stir in 1 pound sweet (chopped) and cook, stirring, until fragrant, potatoes (peeled, cut into ½-inch cubes) and aftoul, a pearl couscous-like pasta, about 30 seconds. Stir in 1 bunch scallions 2 teaspoons salt. Cover, reduce to medium-­ inspired this easy one-pot meal. In a (cut into 2-inch lengths), 3 tablespoons fish M low and cook until the potatoes are tender, large Dutch oven over medium-high, heat sauce and 2 teaspoons white sugar, then 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the bay leaves. Off 1 tablespoon extra-­virgin olive oil until 1 pound plum tomatoes return the meat and accumulated juices to shimmering. Add 1 cup pearl couscous heat, stir in (cored, 1 cup finely chopped fresh the pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, until and cook, stirring, until golden brown, about chopped), flat-leaf parsley 2 tablespoons lemon the liquid is slightly thickened and the 3 minutes. Transfer to a bowl. Add 2 table- and juice. ginger is tender, 2 to 4 minutes. Taste and spoons oil to the pot and heat until shimmer- Taste and season with salt and pepper. season with salt and pepper. ◆ ing. Add 1 medium yellow onion (halved, Serve with lemon wedges. ◆ thinly sliced), 2 teaspoons salt and ¾ teaspoon pepper, then cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 to 5 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons tomato paste, 2 teaspoons sumac and 1 cinnamon stick and cook, stirring, for about 30 seconds. Stir in 1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs (trimmed, halved), 2 medium carrots (peeled, thinly sliced on the diagonal), 3 cups water and the couscous. Boil, then cover and cook over medium-low until the chicken is opaque when cut into, 15 to 20 minutes. Off heat, stir in a 15½-ounce can chickpeas (rinsed, drained), 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest and 1½ tablespoons lemon juice. Remove the cinnamon. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Stir in ¼ cup chopped fresh mint. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon sumac

Photos: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin and another ¼ cup mint. ◆

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19_0102_MSM_TuesNight.indd 5 11/26/18 11:54 AM Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine

Three-for-One: Lentils

Pour the mixture into the center of the and discard the bay leaves. Taste and season Indian Lentils with lentils. Serve with basmati rice or buttered with salt and black pepper. Ladle into bowls 1Spiced Oil naan, with cilantro, lemon wedges or plain and top with 1 ounce baby arugula (2 cups yogurt on the side. ◆ lightly packed). Serve with crusty bread. ◆ this dish combines two classic Indian staples: dal, or lentil stew, and tarka, a mixture of spices and aromatics that have been bloomed in hot oil. We use Spanish Lentil and Garlicky Lentils with red lentils, which cook quickly 2 Chorizo Soup 3 Feta and Parsley and readily break down. Start by thinly slicing 1 bunch this flavorful soup is a lighter take on canned lentils make this salad quick scallions, reserving the Spanish lentejas con chorizo, a thick lentil and easy to throw together. white and green parts and chorizo stew. And thanks to canned Toasted garlic and spices, separately. In a large lentils, it’s quick to make. A gentle simmer good olive oil, lemon saucepan over medium-­ infuses the broth with Spanish chorizo’s deep juice, shallots and a high, heat 3 tablespoons flavor while keeping the cured meat tender hefty dose of coconut oil until shimmer- (don᾽t use Mexican chorizo, which is a fresh parsley turn the ing. Add 4 medium garlic sausage). We like smoked hot paprika here, but lentils into a cloves (chopped), the scallion if you have only smoked sweet paprika, add satisfying side whites, 2 ounces fresh ginger ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper for a little dish. Don’t forget (peeled, sliced ½ inch thick), heat. In a large saucepan over medium-high, to rinse and drain 1 teaspoon ground turmeric, heat 1 tablespoon the lentils. The 1∕8 teaspoon ground cloves and ½ teaspoon extra-virgin packing liquid has a black pepper. Cook, stirring often, until the olive oil until flavor that can over- scallions and garlic begin to turn shimmering. whelm the rest of the golden, about 2 minutes. Stir in 1 cup Add 4 medium ingredients. In a small bowl, stir red lentils (rinsed and drained), garlic cloves together ¼ cup lemon juice and 1 teaspoon 2¾ cups water and 2 teaspoons kosher (chopped), honey, then toss in 2 medium shallots salt. Bring to a simmer, then reduce 3 medium (halved, thinly sliced); set aside. In a small to medium-low and cook, uncovered, carrots saucepan over medium-low, combine ⅓ cup stirring occasionally and adjusting the (peeled, extra-­virgin olive oil and 8 medium garlic heat to maintain a simmer, until the shredded on cloves (minced). Cook, stirring constantly, lentils are tender and have broken down, the large holes until the garlic just begins to brown, 3 to 15 to 20 minutes. Remove and discard the of a box grater), 5 minutes. Add 1½ teaspoons ground ginger slices. Return to a simmer over 1 medium yellow cumin and ¼ teaspoon ground cloves medium and whisk until the lentils are onion (finely chopped), and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about slightly smooth and thickened, about 1 tablespoon tomato paste, 2 teaspoons 30 seconds, then scrape the mixture into a 3 minutes. Taste and season with salt, then smoked hot paprika and 2 teaspoons kosher large bowl. Add two 15½-ounce cans lentils transfer to a serving bowl. In a small salt, then cook, stirring occasionally, until the (rinsed and drained), 1 bunch fresh flat-leaf saucepan over medium-­high, combine vegetables begin to brown, about 6 minutes. parsley (roughly chopped) and ½ teaspoon 3 tablespoons coconut oil, 1½ teaspoons Stir in two 15½-ounce cans lentils (rinsed black pepper, then toss to combine. Add yellow mustard seeds (lightly crushed) and and drained), 6 ounces Spanish chorizo the shallot mixture, including any liquid, 1 teaspoon cumin seeds (lightly crushed). (halved lengthwise, sliced ¼ inch thick), and toss again. Taste and season with Cook, swirling the pan frequently, until the 3 bay leaves and 6 cups water. Bring to a kosher salt and pepper. Transfer to a seeds begin to sizzle, 45 to 90 seconds. Add simmer, then reduce to medium-low and serving bowl. Scatter 2 ounces feta cheese ½ teaspoon turmeric, 4 medium garlic cloves cook, stirring occasionally, until the carrots (crumbled) over the top, drizzle with (chopped), the scallion greens and 1 Fresno are tender, 15 minutes. Off heat, stir in additional oil and sprinkle with additional chili (stemmed, sliced) and swirl to combine. 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar, then remove pepper. Serve with lemon wedges. ◆ Photos: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

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19_0102_MSM_LentilTrio.indd 6 11/26/18 12:01 PM January–February 2019

Eggplant, eggs and potatoes make for a simple supper A Fresh Take on Spain’s Eggy Tortilla

Story by Albert Stumm When I arrived for dinner at Martín’s one-story stone farmhouse, herd of black iberian pigs spread out on a plaid tablecloth was a A snuffed through dry grass among simple array: fruity olives, crackers, the oak trees, kicking up dust as they slices of Manchego cheese, plates of searched for fallen acorns in south- cured ham and the tortilla. I found western Spain. The ham from their myself going back for two extra help- cured legs was the reason I found ings of the tortilla, which was savory, myself in this nature preserve about herbaceous and sweet, and somehow an hour from Seville, where the pigs one of the most satisfying egg dishes stuff themselves every autumn during I’d ever had. the last months of their lives. It turns out the secret was simple. I’d come for a yearly ritual called Most cooks only briefly cook the the engorde, or fattening, which onions and potatoes in a generous infuses the pork with the acorns’ amount of oil before adding the eggs. In Spain, eggy tortilla is often served with garlicky mayonnaise for dipping. nutty flavor and makes it some of the But Martín’s wife, Maria, also adds a most expensive meat on the planet. fistful of chopped parsley and chunks and slid back into the pan—we opted 8 large eggs The sliced jamón ibérico, natu- of white eggplant—a rare addition out of the culinary gymnastics. Kosher salt and ground black pepper rally, was delicious. But at dinner that to a tortilla. More importantly, she We let the egg mixture set on the ½ cup roughly chopped fresh lets the vegetables linger in the pan. stovetop, then put the pan in the flat-leaf parsley Cooking them for about five minutes oven to finish cooking. The result 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil In Spain, tortilla is a longer than normal was enough to was a simple and homey meal that 1 medium yellow onion, chopped common breakfast and caramelize them slightly, adding sweet still delivered the deep and distinct 1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes, dimension to an otherwise routinely flavors we loved in Spain. peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes a staple of tapas savory dish. 8 ounces Chinese or Japanese menus, reheated by the Maria’s tortilla was easy to recre- Potato and Eggplant eggplant, cut into ¾-inch cubes ate back at Milk Street, but it was Tortilla Española 2 medium garlic cloves, thinly sliced slice and served with necessary to make some changes to the traditional cooking method. Start to finish: 30 minutes ■ Heat the oven to 350°F with a rack crusty bread rubbed with First, we had to find the right Servings: 4 in the middle position. In a bowl, fresh tomato. kind of eggplant. Chinese or Japanese n spain, a tortilla is a thick, whisk the eggs with 1 teaspoon salt and varieties produce the best results, but I hearty, frittata-like omelet, usually ¼ teaspoon pepper. Stir in the parsley. Italian or globe eggplants also work made with potatoes and onion. This ■ In a 12-inch nonstick skillet over night with the farmer, Paco Martín, if their tougher skin is removed. We version is made even more substan- medium-high, heat the oil until shim- who raises the purebred pigs, I was whisked eggs and added chopped tial with the addition of eggplant. mering. Stir in the onion, potatoes, surprised that the other star on the parsley, salt and pepper, then set Chinese and Japanese eggplants— eggplant, garlic and 1 teaspoon salt. table was something I’d eaten count- them aside while we sautéed the the varieties called for here—have Cover and cook, stirring occasion- less times before: tortilla española. cubed eggplant along with onions thinner skins and fewer seeds than ally, until the vegetables are tender In Spain, tortillas are similar to and potatoes. large globe eggplants. If you can’t and browned, about 10 minutes. frittatas, made by combining whipped We initially cooked the vegetables find either, you can substitute Italian ■ Pour the eggs over the vegetables eggs with sautéed potatoes and onions. over medium-low until they were well or globe, but be sure to remove the and cook, stirring constantly with a The mixture cooks in a skillet with browned; that took 30 minutes— peel before cutting it into cubes. Serve silicone spatula, until almost set, about a fair amount of oil. It’s a common longer than we wanted. We found that with aioli, a great accompaniment 2 minutes. Tuck in the eggs around breakfast at home but also a staple of covering the pan and using medium-­ to any type of tortilla. the perimeter to form a neat circle. tapas menus, normally reheated by high heat significantly sped things up, Don’t use a conventional skillet; Transfer the pan to the oven and the slice and served with pan con to just 10 minutes. nonstick is essential for the tortilla to bake until set, 5 to 10 minutes. tomate, crusty bread that’s been While a traditional Spanish tor- slide easily out of the pan. Also, the ■ Run the spatula around and under rubbed with fresh tomato and driz- tilla is cooked entirely on the stove- skillet must be oven-safe, as the tor- the tortilla to loosen, then carefully zled with olive oil. But this tortilla top—coaxed out of the pan halfway tilla finishes cooking in a 350°F oven. slide onto a cutting board. Serve warm

Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling:carried Christine Tobin a deeper, sweeter richness. through cooking, inverted onto a plate —Laura Russell or at room temperature. ◆

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19_0102_MSM_TortillaEspanola.indd 7 11/26/18 2:36 PM Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine

evenly. Two hours covered and one and let cool slightly, then pulse until Tame tough flank steak in an onion-pepper sauce to uncovered tenderized and browned coarsely ground, about 10 pulses. streamline a classic Cuban braise the beef. And because we used less ■ In the same pot over medium-high, liquid, the resulting sauce had meat- stir together the oil, onions, bell pep- ier, more concentrated flavor. pers, jalapeños, garlic, spice mixture Rather than remove the meat from and 1½ teaspoons salt. Cover and One-Pot Ropa Vieja the sauce and shred it on a cutting cook, stirring occasionally, until the board, we used kitchen shears to snip vegetables soften and begin to brown, the beef into pieces directly in the pot. 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes For a briny-acidic finish, we tossed in and their juice and cook, stirring green olives and lime juice. The result occasionally, until most of the liquid was tender and succulent, hearty yet evaporates, 5 to 7 minutes. Nestle the distinct—a balanced approach to a meat into the vegetables. Add the broth, Cuban classic. then cover and bake for 2 hours. ■ Uncover the pot and continue to Ropa Vieja cook until a paring knife inserted into the meat meets no resistance, about Start to finish: 4 hours another hour. Remove from the oven (30 minutes active) | Servings: 8 and let rest for 20 to 30 minutes. ook for an extra-large flank ■ Using kitchen shears, snip the meat, Lsteak that weighs about 3 pounds, still in the pot, across the grain into or use multiple steaks if you can’t rough 1-inch strips. Stir in the olives find one that large. We like ropa vieja and lime juice, gently breaking up the served with rice and beans as well as meat, then taste and season with salt crunchy red and white cabbage slaw. and pepper. Serve with lime wedges. Don’t slice the bell peppers too — — Balance the richness of meaty ropa vieja with a tangy-spicy cabbage slaw. thin or they may disintegrate. ◆ Red and White Slaw —Diane Unger Story by Albert Stumm red wine are often stirred into the Start to finish: 45 minutes (15 minutes sofrito, as is a portion of the beef’s 3 pounds flank steak, halved active) | Makes about 2 cups lank steak can be finicky, cooking liquid. After hours of cook- lengthwise with the grain, then his simple, colorful slaw Fprone to toughness if over- or ing both, the shredded meat is added halved crosswise against the grain T is great served with ropa vieja or on undercooked. Cuban cooks have a to the sauce. Kosher salt and ground black pepper baleadas (p. 19). The flavors and tex- solution. They braise it, then com- We loved ropa vieja’s deep flavors, 3 tablespoons cumin seeds tures are best the day the slaw is made. bine the meat with a rich, tomatoey but we wanted to streamline its prepa- 3 tablespoons coriander seeds Don’t skip salting the cabbage; sauce laced with bell peppers and ration as much as possible. So we con- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil the moisture drawn out combines onions. The tender beef often comes solidated the beef and the sauce in 2 medium white onions, halved and with the oil and lime juice to create studded with roasted peppers and one pot, allowing them to cook thinly sliced lengthwise the dressing. —Diane Unger briny green olives or capers. together. We also increased the ratio 2 red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded The dish, ropa vieja, originally of vegetables to beef, so the final and sliced ½ inch thick ¼ small head red cabbage, cored derived from a Spanish stew built on braise would be more balanced. 2 jalapeño chilies, stemmed and and shredded chickpeas and cheap cuts of meat. After toasting cumin and corian- sliced into thin rounds ¼ small head green cabbage, cored The leftover meat—simmered for der seeds, we sautéed onions, bell 10 medium garlic cloves, peeled and shredded hours—was then shredded and sau- peppers and garlic with the spices. 28-ounce can whole peeled 1 jalapeño chili, stemmed and minced téed with garlic, onions and, in later We also added jalapeños to lend the tomatoes, crushed Kosher salt and ground black pepper years, tomatoes and peppers. Spanish dish gentle heat. And instead of typi- 1 cup low-sodium beef broth or water ¼ cup lime juice colonists first brought the multiday cal tomato paste, we opted for the 1 cup pimento-stuffed green olives, 1 tablespoon grapeseed or other meal to the Canary Islands, where fresher, brighter flavor of canned roughly chopped neutral oil it still includes chickpeas. Canarian whole tomatoes. After the vegetables 3 tablespoons lime juice, plus lime ¼ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro immigrants in turn brought the rec- browned and the sauce reduced, we wedges to serve 3 scallions, thinly sliced ipe to Cuba and other parts of the nestled the meat into the mixture. Caribbean in the 1800s. While many recipes call for ■ Heat the oven to 350°F with a rack ■ In a medium bowl, toss both cab- Traditional recipes call for braising enough liquid to submerge the steak, in the lower-middle position. Season bages with the jalapeño and 2 tea- flank steak in water or stock until we used only a cup of beef broth the meat on both sides with salt and spoons salt. Cover and refrigerate for tender, then separately making a so– (water works perfectly fine, as well). pepper; set aside. In a large Dutch at least 30 minutes or up to 1 hour. frito—a flavorful cumin- and oregano-­ And instead of leaving the pot on the oven over medium, toast the cumin Stir in the lime juice, oil, cilantro and tinged reduction of garlic, onions and stovetop, we transferred it to the and coriander seeds until fragrant, 1 to scallions. Taste and season with salt

sweet peppers. Tomato paste and dry oven, which cooked the meat more 3 minutes. Transfer to a spice grinder and pepper. ◆ Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

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A series of slashes maximizes flavor Slashed Chicken for tender-juicy chicken Start to finish: 45 minutes (10 minutes active) Servings: 4 Andrea Nguyen cuts chicken to the bone his recipe, from Vietnamese food authority T and cookbook author Andrea Nguyen, is everything we love in a weeknight meal: quick, Story by Albert Stumm easy and packing a huge flavor payout. Thanks to the deep slashes in the chicken legs, the simple, n andrea nguyen’s native vietnam, savory-sweet sauce coats the meat throughout, not I whole chickens are roughly chopped into pieces, just on the surface. Serve with jasmine rice and a given a savory-sweet marinade, then stir-fried, simple cucumber or cabbage salad. bones and all. The small pieces cook quickly and Don’t cook the chicken directly on the baking evenly, staying juicy to the last bite thanks to the sheet, as the juices it releases will scorch. Placing marinade and marrow that seeps out of the bones. the chicken on a wire rack set over a layer of salt on Nguyen loved the approach, but knew bits of the baking sheet allows the salt to absorb the bone—never mind hacking up whole chickens— drippings. This prevents burning and simplifies wouldn’t play well for most Americans. She won- cleanup. Don’t forget to shake off excess marinade dered whether she could get similar results by before cooking. A little left clinging to the chicken making deep slashes in chicken legs, cutting all will caramelize beautifully, but too much will the way to the bone, then rubbing seasonings into create steam and slow browning. the gashes and under the skin. —Julia Rackow She could. In fact, it worked so well, she put a recipe for it in her upcoming cookbook, 4 medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled “Vietnamese Food Any Day.” ½ medium yellow onion, roughly chopped “I was talking to my mom about it and I 2 tablespoons fish sauce thought I was so smart,” says Nguyen. “And she 2 teaspoons white sugar said, ‘Oh, I’ve been slashing chicken for years Kosher salt and ground black pepper because I’m too old to chop it.’ It gets the season- 4 bone-in, skin-on chicken leg quarters ings in there faster.” (about 3 pounds total), patted dry It may not have been as novel an approach as Nguyen first thought, but we loved it as much as ■ In a food processor or blender, combine the gar- she and her mom do. Slashing the chicken creates lic, onion, fish sauce, sugar and 1 teaspoon each more surface area for seasonings to adhere to, Cut through to the bone to make slashed chicken. salt and pepper. Process until mostly smooth, flavoring the chicken more thoroughly than sim- about 1 minute. Transfer to a large bowl. ply rubbing it on the surface (and without needing Marinades are generally slow to penetrate ■ Using a sharp knife, cut four parallel slashes on to hack through bones). meat—an action aided by salt—but here, the slashes each chicken leg, 2 on the thigh and 2 on the In Nguyen’s recipe, she makes several slashes create significantly more surface area for the mar- drumstick, slicing through the skin all the way to in the legs, marinates them in a puree of fish sauce, inade to coat. The result: The chicken was boldly the bone. Flip each leg and repeat on the under- garlic, shallots, sugar, salt and black pepper, then seasoned to the bone in as little as 20 minutes. side. Transfer to the marinade and toss to coat, cooks them over a grill. At Milk Street, we knew We experimented with roasting the legs rubbing it into the slashes. Let stand at room tem- the approach could work just as well in the oven. directly on a baking sheet, thinking it would cre- perature for 20 minutes or cover and refrigerate First, we patted the chicken legs dry and made four ate an easy pan sauce, but the sugars in the mari- overnight. parallel slashes down to the bone, two on the thigh nade burned too quickly. So we ultimately placed ■ Heat the oven to 450°F with a rack in the middle and two on the drumstick on each side. the legs on a baking rack set in a foil-covered pan position. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil and The marinade came together quickly in a food covered with kosher salt (to prevent flare-ups from spread 1 cup salt over it. Mist a wire rack with processor, though a blender works just as well. We drips). Raising the chicken out of its juices also cooking spray, then set over the salt. Remove the used the same ingredients as Nguyen, but liked a increased air circulation, which led to a crispier chicken from the marinade, shaking off the excess, bit more sugar and garlic to balance the salty fish exterior and better browning all around. In under and arrange, skin side up, on the prepared rack. sauce. And we used yellow onion instead of shal- an hour, including prep time, we had a deeply fla- Roast until well browned and the thickest part of lots since they’re more likely to be on hand. vorful dinner from just a handful of ingredients. the thigh reaches 175°F, 20 to 25 minutes. ◆

The slashes create significantly more surface area for the marinade to coat. The result: The chicken was boldly seasoned to the bone in as little as 20 minutes. Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Catherine Smart

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19_0102_MSM_SlashedChicken.indd 9 11/28/18 3:07 PM Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine

[ MILK STREET O n the R oad ] Sicily’s Simple Pastas

In Sicily, most pastas are a blend of sweet and savory, tender and crunchy, fresh and robust. A trio of quick recipes helped us master that balance.

listening and splayed on the road, circumnavigation of the island. the 280-kilogram tuna lay amid the A sparing approach turns In Sicily, the nuts and sweets of North Africa evening scrum—a dusky piazza tum- long ago married the richness of classic Italian Gbling with chattering nonnas, couples nuts, breadcrumbs and herbs cooking, producing a cuisine where ingredients on promenade and children punting soccer are combined sparingly to create brightness, balls. It was dinnertime in Borgo Vecchio, into brilliant pasta sauces ever blending sweet and savory. I’d come to find Palermo’s oldest quarter. I’d come for Sicily’s two easy pasta dishes I’d heard brokered that simple, on-the-table-in-minutes pastas, but first Story by J.M. Hirsch balance. I didn’t realize a third would find me. the tuna had a lesson to teach. At the center of the square, a young cook splashes of vinaigrette. For bread, I was sent to y exploration of Sicilian pastas began stood sentry over a long grill of coals he fanned Santarita Panificio, the bakery across the street. M in Castelbuono, a hilltop town in northern with a wooden pizza peel. Over the embers, For wine, the supermercato next to it. For plastic Sicily. Vincenzo Ippolito and his wife, Maria rough-cut tuna steaks, sizzling and billowing as cups and the loan of a corkscrew, the bar oppo- Enza Arena, welcomed me to a dayslong feast he sloshed them with olive oil and lemon juice, site the square (a bargain at €1). fueled by homemade wine decanted from an the piazza filling with savory and smoke. The meal merged on a shaky plastic table ancient barrel in a shed. It began in their out- It was unregulated, unauthorized and almost under a darkening sky, laundry flapping from door kitchen overlooking fog-filled valleys—a certainly unsanitary. I was all in. For €9 (about clotheslines above. The tuna—utter simplicity, local shepherd kicked it off with 40 liters of $10), the fishmonger hacked me two robust utterly delicious. The barest of ingredients, raw goat milk he transformed into three vari- steaks from the tuna, directing me to carry flavors heightened but unmasked. It was rich eties of fresh ricotta over a bonfire in an old them to the cook. Another few euros earned my and meaty, balanced by sweet, clear lemon, a washing machine tub—and ended with a pas-

steaks a spot on the grill, along with generous lesson that trailed me across a weeklong ta-making lesson in the summer home of a Warde-Jones Christopher Photo:

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19_0102_SicilianNutPastas.indd 10 11/27/18 2:32 PM January–February 2019

friend down the mountain. That friend, Benedetto Giacalone, a military [ MILK STREET A t H ome ] police officer, used oxen hands to mash semolina flour, water and salt into a supple dough that the Gemelli with Fresh Tomato-Almond Pesto rest of us rolled, stretched and pressed into a pea pod-shaped pasta called gnocchi cavati. Inden- and Croutons tations made by our fingertips formed tiny Start to finish: 30 minutes | Servings: 4 basins to capture pesto Trapanese, a raw tomato sauce from Trapani, Giacalone’s seaport home- hen we sampled this no-cook town in northwestern Sicily. W tomato sauce in Sicily, it was made Like the tuna, the pesto—once reserved for the traditional way, with a large mortar Sunday dinner—was a study in simplicity. and pestle. A food processor gets Giacalone finely grated a handful of garlic cloves it done faster and more easily. into a large wooden mortar, then used a pestle to Topped with crisp, olive oil- mash them with coarse salt to form a smooth, wet infused croutons and toasted paste. A handful of chopped grape tomatoes and almonds, the dish is served more mashing. This pulpy-garlicky mix was then warm or at room tempera- stirred into a large bowl of chopped tomatoes ture after the pasta has had and torn fresh basil. Olive oil for peppery bite a few minutes to soak in the and richness, and the sauce was done. flavorful sauce. Instead of Separately, coarse breadcrumbs were lightly blanched, slivered almonds, toasted with olive oil, then set aside. The final you also could use sliced or ingredient, a flourish I would see over and again whole almonds that have been in Sicily: nuts, toasted and crushed. We used roughly chopped. almonds that day, though the pistachios for which Don’t overprocess the sec- Sicily is known are also common. When the ond addition of tomatoes. The pasta was cooked, it was added to the tomatoes, first half is pulsed to create a juicy steam lifting aromas of garlic, basil and sweet- sauce, but the rest are pulsed only ness as it was spooned into bowls. Breadcrumbs until roughly chopped so that tomato and almonds were sprinkled over each serving, chunks add bursts of bright color and texture. creating a dish at once raw, rich and sweet, ten- —Courtney Hill der and crunchy, an almost instant sauce that ■ Meanwhile, in a food processor, process was bold, fresh and bright. ¾ cup blanched, slivered almonds ½ cup of the almonds, the garlic and 2 tea- While all this was happening, Giacalone’s 12 ounces gemelli or other short pasta spoons salt until finely chopped, about 30 sec- wife, Lea Venturella, focused on sarde a becca- Kosher salt and ground black pepper onds. Add the basil and half of the tomatoes, fico, a side dish I was certain never would make 4 medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled then pulse until chopped and well combined, the pages of Milk Street. Working at the other ½ cup lightly packed fresh basil, torn if large 4 to 6 pulses. Add the remaining tomatoes and end of the long table—closer to where a televi- 2 pints cherry tomatoes, divided 2 tablespoons of the oil. Pulse just until the sion shared space with a pizza oven—she made a 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided, whole tomatoes are broken up, about 3 pulses. mash of chopped raisins, pine nuts, garlic, pars- plus more to serve ■ Transfer the tomato mixture to a serving ley, breadcrumbs and olive oil, which she stuffed 3 ounces crusty white bread, torn into rough bowl, add the pasta and ¼ cup of the reserved into filleted sardines, rolling them into tight ½-inch pieces (about 1¾ cups) cooking water, then toss. Let stand, tossing bundles and snugging them into a pan. After once or twice, for 10 to 15 minutes to allow baking, they were delicious—that same Sicilian ■ In a 10-inch skillet over medium-high, the pasta to absorb some of the sauce. sweet-savory-tender-crunchy—but also daunt- toast the almonds, stirring frequently, until ■ While the pasta stands, in the same skillet ing. Raisin-stuffed sardines? That’s a hard sell. golden brown and fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes. used to toast the almonds, toss the bread, Transfer the almonds to a small bowl and set remaining 4 tablespoons oil, ½ teaspoon salt ot knowing that dish would dog me, I aside; reserve the skillet. and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Cook over medium, N headed three hours southeast—wending ■ In a large pot, bring 4 quarts water to a boil. stirring frequently, until the bread is crisp past smoking Mount Etna—to Sicilia in Tavola, Add the pasta and 2 tablespoons salt, then and golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. a stone-arched trattoria in Siracusa. Owner cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente. ■ Scatter the toasted bread and the remaining Doriana Gesualdi offered to teach me a similarly Reserve about ½ cup of the cooking water, ¼ cup almonds over the pasta. Drizzle with simple and bold—but this time warm—sauce of then drain the pasta. additional oil and sprinkle with pepper. ◆

Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling:pistachios, Christine Tobin tomatoes and little Continued on page 12

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19_0102_SicilianNutPastas.indd 11 11/27/18 2:32 PM Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine

else. “We don’t use garlic because we want you to taste the pure pistachios,” she explained. In minutes—less time than the pasta cooked— chopped grape tomatoes were reduced to a sauce in a skillet of sizzling olive oil. A splash of starchy pasta cooking water first loosened, then thickened them. Coarsely ground pistachios mixed with olive oil went in next, simmering and reducing. Next, the pasta—plump ricotta-­ stuffed ravioli. Onto the plate and topped with more crushed pistachios, all in under 10 min- utes. There it was again—a simple, sparing mix that nonetheless produced pronounced flavors and textures. Sweet tomatoes and rich, savory nuts created an almost creamy sauce, the latter also offering crunch to offset the tender pasta. Gesualdi also wanted to show me something unhelpfully named pasta Siracusa. Turned out For pesto alla Trapanese, Lea Venturella makes pasta with a cuplike shape for catching sauce. to be the local version of a dish known as pasta con le sarde, or pasta with sardines. While much 500 kilometers around and up the southwestern plumped and the anchovies melted. Pasta was of Sicily dines eagerly, frequently on sardines, in side of Sicily, returning to Palermo. There on the added and tossed until richly coated, then Siracusa they favor the poor person’s alternative— fringes of Vucciria Market—a neighborhood dusted with coarse breadcrumbs. Another briny-savory anchovies. And so, garlic and ancho- still pockmarked by WWII wounds and rough 10-minute dish that tasted of hours. The tender vies browned and melted in sizzling olive oil enough to be skipped by tourists—I was pulled raisins added pops of sweetness against the salty before being tossed with pasta, breadcrumbs into the kitchen of Vecchia Trattoria da Totò. anchovies and pungent garlic. And again with and parsley. Deliciously crunchy and rich, yet Husband and wife Giuseppe and Piera di Noto the nuts and breadcrumbs for texture. That’s light. Again, on the table in minutes. offered a signature dish: pasta Palermitana. when it struck me. This was a more elaborate Piera deftly and speedily combined garlic, version of Gesualdi’s pasta Siracusa. Strike that. here was something familiar about anchovies, pine nuts and raisins in a skillet of Both of them were Venturella’s stuffed sardines T this, but understanding it took another hot olive oil, cooking them until the fruit recast as an easy pasta dish.

[ MILK STREET A t H ome ] Pasta with Pistachios, Tomatoes and Mint Start to finish: 20 minutes | Servings: 4 12 ounces long pasta (see note) icily is known for its pistachios, so Kosher salt and ground black pepper Sit’s no surprise that the colorful, subtly ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to serve sweet nuts feature heavily in the region’s 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved desserts and savory dishes. This recipe is ½ cup shelled roasted pistachios, finely our take on a pasta dressed with pistachios chopped and lightly cooked tomatoes that we tasted 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest in Siracusa. With lemon zest and mint as 2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh mint accent ingredients, the flavors are fresh and Grated Parmesan or pecorino Romano cheese, bright. Just about any variety of pasta works to serve well, but we particularly like long strands, such as linguine and spaghetti. ■ In a large pot, bring 4 quarts water to a boil. Don’t use raw pistachios; opt for roasted, Add the pasta and 2 tablespoons salt, then cook, as they don’t require toasting before chopping. stirring occasionally, until just shy of al dente. Either salted or unsalted works well. Reserve about 2 cups of the cooking water, then

—Courtney Hill drain the pasta. Photos: Christopher Warde-Jones (Lea Venturella); Connie Miller of CB Creatives (bowl of pasta); Styling: Christine Tobin

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19_0102_SicilianNutPastas.indd 12 11/27/18 2:32 PM January–February 2019

eyond sheer simplicity, the trio of pastas had a common thread: nuts. Sicilians B [ MILK STREET A t H ome ] use them liberally for texture and richness to balance sweet ingredients like tomatoes and raisins. Adapting them at Milk Street was easy. Spaghetti with Anchovies, Pine Nuts and Raisins We loved the contrasting textures of crushed and chunked tomatoes in Giacalone’s pesto 12 ounces spaghetti Trapanese, but streamlined using a food processor, Kosher salt and ground black pepper adding some tomatoes first, the rest later. We also 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided, liked the richness of adding some of the almonds plus more to serve to the processor with the garlic and salt. ⅓ cup panko breadcrumbs, finely crushed Gesualdi’s pasta with pistachio-­tomato or chopped (see note) pesto was equally simple. We followed her ¼ cup pine nuts, finely chopped recipe with few exceptions, adding 3 tablespoons golden raisins, finely fresh mint and lemon zest for their chopped bright, fresh flavors. We also added a 10 oil-packed anchovy fillets, savory sprinkling of grated Parmesan patted dry or pecorino Romano cheese. 8 medium garlic cloves, finely Likewise, the pasta Palermitano (or chopped Siracusa, as you like). We mostly stuck 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar with Piera’s recipe, though we liked ½ cup lightly packed fresh flat-leaf more anchovies. We balanced the salty parsley, chopped richness with white wine vinegar, a com- bination in keeping with Sicily’s love of ■ In a large pot, bring 4 quarts water to agrodolce, a sweet-and-sour vegetable sauce. a boil. Add the spaghetti and 2 tablespoons Deliciously simple, though perhaps lacking salt, then cook, stirring occasionally, until the romance of tuna grilled in the street. Then just shy of al dente. Reserve about 1½ cups of again, I later heard that a similar feast the same the cooking water, then drain the pasta. night a few piazzas away left several people hos- ■ While the pasta cooks, in a 12-inch skillet pitalized. So maybe pasta is the better choice. ◆ over medium, combine 2 tablespoons of the Start to finish: 30 minutes | Servings: 4 oil and the panko. Cook, stirring frequently, his pasta dish features the classic until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer T Sicilian flavor combination of savory, the panko to a small bowl and set aside; wipe ■ In a 12-inch skillet over medium, combine sweet and sour, while getting richness from a out the skillet. the oil and tomatoes. Cook, stirring only once handful of pine nuts. Toasted breadcrumbs, ■ Set the skillet over medium-high and add or twice, until the tomatoes have softened and sprinkled on just before serving, cling to the the remaining 4 tablespoons oil, the pine nuts, the oil has taken on a reddish hue, 4 to 6 min- strands of pasta and provide pleasant crisp- raisins, anchovies and garlic. Cook, stirring utes. Stir in half of the pistachios, 1½ cups of ness. We preferred fluffy panko breadcrumbs frequently, until the anchovies have broken the reserved cooking water, ½ teaspoon salt over regular powder-fine breadcrumbs, but down and the garlic is golden brown, about and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Bring to a simmer crushing or chopping the panko before toast- 2 minutes. Stir in the vinegar and cook until and cook, stirring occasionally, until the ing ensured better blending with the pasta. syrupy, 30 to 60 seconds. Add 1 cup of the mixture is slightly reduced and the tomatoes Crush the panko in a zip-close plastic bag reserved pasta water, ½ teaspoon salt and are completely softened, about 2 minutes. with a meat pounder or rolling pin, or simply ¼ teaspoon pepper and bring to a simmer. ■ Add the pasta and lemon zest, then cook, chop with a chef’s knife on a cutting board. ■ Add the pasta, reduce to medium and stirring frequently, until the pasta is al dente To be extra efficient, pile the pine nuts, raisins cook, occasionally tossing to combine, until and has absorbed most of the liquid but is and garlic together on the cutting board and the pasta is al dente and has absorbed most of still quite saucy, 2 to 4 minutes. Off heat, stir chop them all at once. the moisture but is still a little saucy, about in the mint, then taste and season with salt Don’t overcook the pasta after adding it 2 minutes. Remove from the heat. If the pasta and pepper. If the pasta is dry, add more to the sauce. The noodles should be al dente is dry, add more cooking water, 1 tablespoon cooking water, 1 tablespoon at a time. Trans- and slippery, not fully tender and dry. If at a time. Stir in the parsley, then taste and fer to a serving bowl, then sprinkle with the needed, loosen them by tossing with addi- season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a remaining pistachios and drizzle with addi- tional reserved pasta water. serving bowl. Sprinkle with the panko and

Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling:tional Christine Tobin oil. Serve with cheese. ◆ —Courtney Hill top with additional oil and pepper. ◆

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19_0102_SicilianNutPastas.indd 13 11/27/18 2:32 PM Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine

small tart berry common in Persian cuisine. Everything is suffused with a Persian Jeweled Rice heavy dose of saffron broth. (Javaher Polow) At last, all the garnishes are com- bined with the candied peel into a Start to finish: 55 minutes (20 minutes sweet-salty mixture that’s drizzled active) | Servings: 4 with the syrup and spread in alter- his rice pilaf is named for nating layers with the rice, forming a T the colorful dried fruits and nuts conical shape in the pot. The pot is that embellish the saffron-tinted bas- covered and, as the rice steams, the mati rice. The bright color of raw pis- sugars seep down to form a crispy, tachios is best here. caramelized crust at the bottom. Don’t forget to rinse and drain the We were sold by the layered fla- rice. Rinsing removes excess starch vors and textures, but somewhat so the grains cook up fluffy and light. daunted by the laborious process. So —Courtney Hill we took inspiration from more streamlined versions of javaher 1 teaspoon saffron threads polow, paring back the ingredients to 4 tablespoons (½ stick) salted butter essentials and tempering the overall 2 medium yellow onions, halved and sweetness. And while we experi- thinly sliced mented with the crispy layer of near- Kosher salt and ground black pepper burnt rice at the bottom of the pot, 2 cups basmati rice, rinsed and we ultimately chose to forgo it. drained Faintly floral basmati proved a 2 teaspoons ground cumin good substitute for sadri rice, and 1¾ teaspoons ground cardamom instead of barberries, we swapped in 2 medium carrots, peeled and sweet-tart dried cranberries. We also shredded on the large holes of Nuts, zest, spices and a skillet skipped the citrus syrup; orange zest a box grater (about 1 cup) transform everyday rice provided an aromatic nod to the can- 1 cup dried cranberries died citrus peel. Plus, the natural 1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest sweetness of carrots, onions and cran- ½ cup chopped shelled pistachios, berries was enough to complement divided Persian Jeweled Rice the salted rice and pistachios. Rather than follow the tradi- ■ In a microwave-safe bowl, com- Story by Albert Stumm tional two-step method to cook the bine the saffron with 2⅔ cups water. rice, we opted for the quicker but Microwave until the water has a Simplified and streamlined, our jeweled rice maintains its colorful flair. equally effective method used for yellow hue, about 1 minute; set aside. classic rice pilaf: sautéing onions in ■ In a 12-inch skillet over medium, oaded with enough food to Traditionally, the process begins butter until light golden brown, then melt the butter. Add the onions and L serve hundreds of guests twice the day before and ends with a stirring in the rice as well as cumin 2 teaspoons salt, then cook, stirring over, Iranian wedding banquets over- mound of pilaf at once sweet, tart, and cardamom—together with saf- occasionally, until softened and light flow with buffets consisting of suc- salty, crunchy and silky. Many varia- fron, the most common spices in golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Stir culent kebabs, rich stews, salads tions exist, but it typically starts with javaher polow. The rinsed basmati and in the rice, cumin, cardamom, 1 tea- laced with herbs, and myriad honey- a thorough rinsing of an aromatic spices toasted in the onions before we spoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. laden desserts, not to mention wed- long-­grain rice called sadri, culti- stirred in saffron water, shredded Cook, stirring, until the grains are ding cake, all varying by region. vated along the Caspian Sea. After it carrots and cranberries. lightly browned, 4 to 7 minutes. Stir No matter the area, though, there soaks overnight, the rice is parboiled In half an hour or less, the rice in the saffron water, carrots and cran- is one constant—javaher polow, or in salted water and set aside. was tender and fluffy, tinged with berries. Bring to a boil over medium-­ jeweled rice. The buttery, saffron-­ Meanwhile, blanched strips of saffron and laced with tender carrots high, then cover, reduce to low and scented long-grain rice comes studded orange, lemon or tangerine peel are and cranberries. We stirred in grated cook until the rice has absorbed the with gem-colored pops of green cooked with sugar and water to make orange zest and chopped pistachios. liquid and the carrots are tender, 25 to pistachios, dried fruits, sweetened a citrus syrup. Carrots are browned The jeweled rice was heady with 30 minutes. shredded carrots and candied citrus in butter, then sweetened with sugar. spices, markedly less sweet than ■ Fluff the rice with a fork, then stir peel. The dish’s preparation is nearly Yellow onions are salted, seasoned traditional versions but just as var- in the orange zest and ¼ cup of the as elaborate as the wedding itself, but with a number of spices, then cooked ied in texture, with crunchy-chewy pistachios. Taste and season with at Milk Street we knew this tradition until caramelized. Pistachios and accents. A base of buttery rice bal- salt and pepper. Transfer to a shallow could provide an avenue to better rice other nuts are cooked briefly with the anced a dish as striking as the ornate bowl and sprinkle with the remaining

at home in under an hour. vegetables, raisins and barberries, a original, made in a fraction of the time. ¼ cup pistachios. ◆ Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

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19_0102_MSM_PersianJeweledRice.indd 14 11/27/18 11:36 AM January–February 2019

coriander transforms every few minutes to ensure it was ■ In a small bowl, stir together the In Georgia, an Italian classic browning evenly. Once a golden crust coriander, granulated garlic, 1 table- developed, we flipped the chicken spoon salt and ½ teaspoon black pep- and finished it in a 450°F oven. per. Place the chicken breast down Chicken Under a Brick After roasting, we used the same on a cutting board. Using sturdy skillet to create an easy pan sauce. We kitchen shears, cut along both sides cooked garlic in butter, then deglazed of the backbone, end to end. Remove the pan with chicken broth, scraping and discard the backbone (or save up the flavorful brown bits. Off heat, it to make stock). Spread open the we stirred in cayenne pepper, lemon chicken, then turn it breast up. Use juice and fresh cilantro. Spooned over the heel of your hand to press down the crispy chicken, the cilantro and firmly on the thickest part of the garlic in the sauce reinforced the breast, until the wishbone snaps. coriander and garlic in the spice rub. Season all over with the spice mix- ture, rubbing it into the skin. Let Georgian-Style Chicken under stand, uncovered, at room tempera- a Brick (Tsitsila Tabaka) ture for 30 to 45 minutes. ■ Heat the oven to 450°F with a rack Start to finish: 1¼ hours (30 minutes in the lowest position. Thoroughly active), plus resting | Servings: 4 pat the chicken dry with paper towels. patchcocked chicken cooked In a 12-inch oven-safe skillet over Sunder a brick until the skin is medium-high, heat the oil until barely beautifully crisp is a classic Georgian smoking. Place the chicken in the In Italy and Georgia, cooks use weights wisely for a bird with browned skin. dish. Use an oven-safe skillet for pan breast down. Lay a small sheet of this recipe. For the “brick,” we use foil over the chicken, then place a Story by Albert Stumm juice, olive oil, garlic and herbs, such an additional heavy skillet or a second heavy skillet or pot on top. as rosemary, then searing the chicken, large, sturdy pot (such as a Dutch Reduce to medium and cook until he worn wooden block skin side down, with bricks on top. oven). You could also use one or the skin is golden brown, 10 to 15 min- T Maria Monaselidze placed atop They then usually flip it and finish it two bricks wrapped in heavy-duty utes, removing the weight and foil the spatchcocked chicken didn’t in the oven. foil. Niortskali, a Georgian garlic and checking every 4 to 5 minutes to initially catch my attention. She was At Milk Street, we found we could sauce with lemon and cilantro, is the ensure even browning. roasting the bird to later shred the recreate the crispy golden skin with- perfect complement. ■ Using tongs, carefully transfer the meat for another recipe I had come to out the pesky step of finding bricks or Don’t use a chicken much larger chicken to a large plate, turning it learn in her Tbilisi, Georgia kitchen. a wooden block. A layer of foil placed than 4 pounds, as it may not fit com- breast up. Pour off and discard the But then I tasted the chicken and over the chicken, with a heavy pot or fortably in the skillet. Don’t forget to fat in the skillet. Slide the chicken, realized I’d missed something vital. skillet set over that, provided plenty pat the chicken dry before searing. breast up, back into the pan and She had removed the chicken’s of weight. We not only got perfectly The drier the skin, the better it crisps. place in the oven. Roast until the backbone, then used the block to browned skin, but the meat was moist After searing, make sure to drain the thickest part of the breast reaches weigh down the spread-out bird, and tender. As a bonus, the chicken fat in the pan before putting the bird 160°F, 25 to 35 minutes. Carefully increasing its contact with the roast- was done in about half the time tra- in the oven; this reduces splatter. transfer the chicken to a cutting ing pan. All that extra surface area ditional roasting takes. Finally, don’t forget that the skillet’s board and let it rest while you make produced golden, exceptionally crispy Beyond that, we stuck close to handle will be hot from the oven. the sauce. skin and moist, tender meat. Monaselidze’s recipe. She seasoned —Courtney Hill ■ Set the skillet (the handle will be Turns out, Monaselidze was the spatchcocked chicken with just hot) over medium-high and cook employing a technique known as salt and pepper. We added coriander 1½ teaspoons ground coriander the butter and garlic, stirring occa- tsitsila tabaka that’s common in the and granulated garlic, which con- ½ teaspoon granulated garlic sionally, until the garlic is lightly Caucasus region. While she prefers a tributed floral, toasty flavors. Letting Kosher salt and ground black pepper browned, about 2 minutes. Add the wooden block and an oven, tradition the bird rest at room temperature for 3½- to 4-pound whole chicken broth and bring to a simmer, scrap- often calls for foiled-wrapped bricks about 30 minutes helped the season- 1 tablespoon grapeseed or other ing up any browned bits, then cook and starting the bird on the stovetop. ings penetrate the skin and gave the neutral oil until the garlic is softened and the However it’s done, the rendered fat surface time to dry out. (We also 2 tablespoons salted butter mixture is slightly thickened and in the pan typically serves as a base patted it dry with paper towels to 8 medium garlic cloves, peeled and reduced to about ¾ cup, 10 to 15 min- for a simple garlic sauce. improve browning.) chopped utes. Using a silicone spatula, mash The approach is similar to Italy’s After trying it several ways, we 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth the garlic until almost smooth and pollo alla mattone, or chicken under found that starting the chicken breast ⅛ to ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper mix it into the sauce. Off heat, stir in a brick. There, instead of simply down in the skillet produced the crisp- 2 tablespoons lemon juice the cayenne, lemon juice and cilantro, seasoning the meat, cooks build iest skin. So we seared it over medium ¼ cup lightly packed fresh cilantro, then transfer to a serving bowl. Carve

Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling:flavor Christine Tobin by marinating it in lemon with the foil and pot on top, checking chopped the meat; serve with the sauce. ◆

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19_0102_MSM_ChickenUnderBrick.indd 15 11/27/18 11:30 AM Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine

very monday night, Israeli-born chef Candied pecans and E Alon Shaya has one job: to whip up a quick, Apple-Fennel Salad with Candied Pecans bright salad that will offset the richness of his punch up wife’s red beans and rice, a weekly tradition in pink peppercorns Start to finish: 45 minutes (10 minutes active) | Servings: 4 their New Orleans home. a simple salad he candied pecans can be made a day to In winter, that often means a jumble of sliced Ttwo in advance. If you can’t find Aleppo pep- apple, fresh fennel and toasted pecans. But Shaya per, substitute ½ teaspoon sweet paprika mixed relies on two spices to elevate the simple salad to with ⅛ teaspoon cayenne. Don’t cut the apples one with complex texture and flavor: fruity Aleppo Apple-Fennel Salad until you’re ready to serve. —Courtney Hill pepper and aromatic pink peppercorns. Story by Albert Stumm To maximize the pecans’ natural sweetness 1 large egg white and crunch, Shaya coats them in stiffly whipped 1 cup pecan halves egg white, then seasons them with Aleppo pepper, 2 tablespoons white sugar sugar and salt. They’re toasted in the oven until ½ teaspoon Aleppo pepper, plus more to serve crisp—baking up into an addictive snack in their Kosher salt own right. And while they sound fancy, Shaya ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil says, they’re actually easy to make. 3 tablespoons cider vinegar For dressing the apples and fennel slices, 1 tablespoon honey he makes an emulsion of orange juice, honey, 1 tablespoon pink peppercorns, lightly cider vinegar and olive oil. A garnish of crushed lightly crushed pink peppercorns—which 1 medium fennel bulb, trimmed, fronds are not true peppercorns at all (see sidebar reserved for garnish below)—adds a delicate textural contrast 2 medium crisp apples, such as Gala or and mild bite. Fennel fronds and scallions Granny Smith provide herbal, oniony accents that bal- 4 scallions, thinly sliced on the diagonal ance the salad’s fruity flavor. We loved the refreshing flavors, crisp- ■ Heat the oven to 325°F. Line a rimmed crunchy textures and interesting use of spice baking sheet with kitchen parchment. In a bowl, in Shaya’s salad, but we tinkered with it to pare whisk the egg white until foamy. Add the pecans back the sweetness and play up the peppercorns. and fold until evenly coated; use a slotted spoon to We omitted the orange juice and increased the transfer to another small bowl, then add the sugar, cider vinegar—using an almost equal amount of Aleppo pepper and ½ teaspoon salt and toss. Spread vinegar and olive oil. Rather than treating the in an even layer on the pan and bake until golden peppercorns as a garnish, we whisked them into Cider vinegar softens sliced fennel in this salad. brown, 20 to 25 minutes, rotating halfway through. the vinaigrette to disperse their flavor. Cool completely, then break up any clumps. We also streamlined the candying process. half crosswise against the grain, leaving the vege- ■ While the nuts bake and cool, in a large bowl, We whisked an egg white just until frothy, then table’s core intact. whisk the oil with the vinegar, honey, pink pepper- folded the pecans into it. In order to minimize To soften fennel’s strong flavor, we tossed it corns and 1 teaspoon salt. Halve the fennel bulb clumping, we spooned them into another bowl with the vinegary dressing and let it stand while lengthwise, then thinly slice each half crosswise. before tossing them with the salt, sugar and the pecans toasted and cooled (they firm up as Toss with the dressing. Let stand for up to 30 minutes. Aleppo and spreading them on a prepared pan. they come to room temperature). We waited until ■ When ready to serve, halve and core the apples, While the nuts toasted in a 325°F oven, we just before serving to core, halve and slice two then thinly slice each half crosswise. Add to the made the dressing and prepped a fennel bulb. We apples, to avoid any browning. fennel, along with the scallions and pecans and toss trimmed off the stalks, reserving the fronds for The resulting salad was simple to make yet to combine. Taste and season with salt. Transfer to garnish, and sliced off the fibrous base. Then we complex-tasting, with a variety of contrasts: tart a serving platter and sprinkle with additional halved the bulb lengthwise and thinly sliced each and sweet, oniony and floral, juicy and crunchy. Aleppo pepper and fennel fronds. ◆

Deceptively Delicious: Pink Peppercorns and not as strong as black pepper, with a ink peppercorns are the dried berry of a South American tree, delicate, fruity flavor. Slightly crushing them Pprovide pops of color Schinus terebinthifolius, in the same family as releases their aromas. and fruity spice in our cashew and mango trees. We love pink peppercorns in uses sweet and apple-fennel salad. But Originally from Peru—where they were savory. Mix them with black peppercorns for an despite their physical once fermented by Amazonian tribes into a all-purpose seasoning. Stir them into coarse sea similarity to black pepper, beer called chiche—the berries are now mostly salt or melted butter to make a garnish for fish they’re not actually peppercorns at all. cultivated in Brazil. They turn red when they and sautéed vegetables. Grind them and fold Instead of the Piper nigrum that’s dried to ripen and are dried after they’re harvested. into shortbread cookie dough, or sprinkle them

make black and white pepper, pink peppercorns Pink peppercorns are floral, a little spicy over sliced strawberries and honey. ◆ Illustration: Kendyll Hillegas; Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

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19_0102_MSM_AppleFennelSalad.indd 16 11/27/18 11:06 AM January–February 2019

[ MILK STREET O n the R oad ]

In Oaxaca, Mexico, the cuisine is as vibrant as the colorful streets. That’s true of refried beans, which boast complex flavor and smooth texture. Oaxacan Refried Beans

reakfast is substantial Creamy, smoky and rich, pureed black residents can bring large batches at La Olla, a traditional of ingredients to be ground down restaurant in downtown beans meld the best Mexican flavors to pastes. Scattered throughout BOaxaca with a hot pink- the city, these shops are a crucial and-marigold facade as vibrant as Story by Jenn Ladd stop for cooks making mole, cho- its cuisine. A heap of fresh string rizo, hot chocolate, refried beans cheese sits atop a squash blossom guacamole. But La Olla’s beans were ingredients are spread out on a and more. omelet that blooms out over a din- a revelation. As I would soon dis- rough-hewn wooden table: dried Inside the stucco storefront, ner plate. A short stack of warm, cover, in Oaxaca, black beans not and fresh chilies, whole spices, five chest-high industrial mills are pliant corn tortillas comes wrapped only anchor many meals, they also fresh herbs, tomatoes and toma- positioned over a drain set in a tile in cloth, accompanied by a small have a tendency to steal the show. tillos, onion, garlic cloves and floor; hoses snake out from a pipe half-loaf of crusty-fluffy white cooked black beans. along the wall. With some added bread. There’s butter, jam and red he first recipe Rodolfo We begin over open flame, water, these powerful mills can chili sauce, too. T Castellanos ever learned was toasting pasilla chilies as well as churn through a sack of dried But the sleeper hit of this refried beans. The boyish-looking avocado leaves—essential items peppers, stems and all, to make a spread is a small bowl of refried chef, Oaxaca native and winner of in the Oaxacan pantry that thin puree. Given our relatively beans—velvety, aromatic, savory Top Chef Mexico was taught by resemble oversized bay leaves and small batch of beans, Castellanos and piquant, a silky, seamless his mother, Doña Fuensanta, who add an anise-y undertone to says, “we are just playing.” fusion of garlic, chilies, spices and also runs a nearby restaurant, dishes. Fuensanta grips the long, A worker empties our bucket earthy black beans. I slather it onto one that caters more to locals than dried leaves with tongs and lets of black beans into a mill’s wedge- the tortillas, stuffing forkfuls of tourists. The mother-son pair them singe over a stovetop burner. shaped trough. He activates the omelet into them. I eat the entire agree to show me how they pre- “Just enough to give them a tan,” machine and it whirs to life, basket’s worth, then mop up the pare the beans. she says. She crumbles the leaves quickly pulverizing the beans to a remaining puree with bread. We meet in the cool open-air over a white plastic bucket of thick paste. At first glance, the Refried beans were part of what courtyard of Origen, a cavernous, cooked beans. The dark, leathery puree could be mistaken for choc- had brought me to Oaxaca, but I whitewashed colonial mansion-­ chilies follow. olate mousse. admit, I arrived more enthused turned-restaurant that Castellanos The next step takes us to a Despite appearances, though, about the prospect of gorging on opened in 2011. A myriad of molino, a community mill where the mixture is a Continued on page 18 Photos: Eva Alicia Lépiz

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19_0102_MSM_OaxacanBlackBeans.indd 17 11/27/18 12:11 PM Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine

base that Oaxacan cooks turn to every day to make meals. This puree [ MILK STREET A t H ome] merely marks the start of a soup, a dip, a sauce or a filling that can be folded into tortillas Oaxacan Refried Black Beans in dozens of ways— Start to finish: 2¾ hours (35 minutes ■ In a large pot over medium-­ making tacos, enchila- active) | Servings: 6 high, heat 1 tablespoon of the das, tetelas, memelas n oaxaca, black beans are a lard until barely smoking. and tlayudas. It all I part of almost every meal. Add the onion, tomatoes and depends on how you Though they are sometimes served guajillo chilies, then cook, cook the puree. whole, we liked the balanced, stirring occasionally, until This particular complex flavor and smooth, velvety the onion is well browned, batch of pureed beans consistency of refried black beans. 5 to 7 minutes. Add the beans, is destined for dip- Lard gives these beans a rich whole garlic cloves, bay and ping. Castellanos and meatiness, but coconut oil is a aniseed, then stir in 10 cups I return to Origen, good vegetarian substitute. For a water. Bring to a boil, then cover where he drops a gener- quicker version, see our pressure partially and reduce to low. ous scoop of lard into an cooker variation. The beans can Cook, stirring occasionally, until enormous steel pot. He lets be stored in an airtight container the beans are completely tender, it heat for a full five minutes, in the refrigerator for up to a 11/2 hours to 2 hours. adding half an onion and a whole week. We like them topped with ■ Stir in 2 teaspoons salt. Set a V ariation head of garlic to the pan. After the cotija and fresh cilantro. colander in a large bowl and Pressure-Cooker aromatics are charred, he scoops Don’t soak the beans before drain the beans, reserving the Refried Black Beans them out and discards them. The cooking. Unlike other types of cooking liquid. Remove and dis- lard is blistering hot. That’s the dried beans, black beans soften card the bay leaves from the Start to finish: 1¼ hours | Servings: 6 moment to add the beans, so “it’s readily without soaking. And beans. Transfer the drained beans ■ In a 5½-quart or larger pres- like a shock.” When the puree hits don’t forget to reserve the bean to a food processor and pulse a sure cooker, heat 1 tablespoon of the lard, there’s a loud, long sizzle cooking liquid; you need 11/2 cups few times to break them up. With the lard over medium-high until and a poof of steam. when pureeing the beans in the the machine running, add 11/2 cups barely smoking. Add the onion, Castellanos takes a spatula to food processor. The liquid is also of the reserved cooking liquid tomatoes, guajillo chilies and the beans, whipping vigorously, useful for thinning the beans and process until smooth, 2 to whole garlic cloves, then cook, constantly, for about 10 minutes. when reheating (they thicken as 3 minutes, scraping the bowl as stirring, until the onions are well Not only does the movement pre- they stand). —Diane Unger needed. Taste and season with browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the vent burning, he says, but it incor- salt, then set aside. beans, bay, aniseed and 2 tea- porates the lard into the beans, 4 tablespoons lard or coconut ■ In a 12-inch nonstick skillet spoons salt, then stir in 8 cups lacing them with meaty flavor. oil, divided over medium, heat 2 tablespoons water. Lock the lid in place and When they’re bubbling, shiny and 1 large white onion, chopped of the remaining lard until shim- bring to high pressure. Reduce the thick, he knows the beans are ready. 1 pint grape or cherry tomatoes mering. Add the minced garlic, heat to low and stabilize at high As he’s stirring and scraping, he 5 guajillo chilies, stemmed and cumin, coriander, chili powder pressure. Cook for 40 minutes. describes how he could use the seeded and oregano, then cook, stirring, ■ Off heat, allow the pressure to puree: thin it out to make an enfri- 1 pound dried black beans, rinsed until fragrant, about 30 seconds. reduce naturally for 10 minutes, jolada sauce, add stock or cream to 10 medium garlic cloves, peeled ■ Stir in the pureed beans and then quick-release the remaining make soup, use it in a tamale... and kept whole, plus 5 medium cook, stirring frequently, until steam. Carefully open the lid, tilt- I get a taste a bit later, once garlic cloves, minced beginning to brown on the bottom, ing it away from you. Stir in 2 tea- Castellanos and Fuensanta have 3 bay leaves 8 to 10 minutes. Continue to cook spoons salt. Set a colander in a finished cooking our elaborate late- 1 teaspoon aniseed and stir, adding reserved cooking large bowl and drain the beans, lunch feast. There’s spicy pork, a Kosher salt and ground black water as needed, until the mix- reserving the cooking liquid. simple salad, fresh cheese, yellow pepper ture has the consistency of mashed Remove and discard the bay mole and more, but what I keep 4 teaspoons ground cumin potatoes, 5 to 7 minutes. Off heat, leaves from the beans. Transfer returning to are the beans—creamy 4 teaspoons ground coriander stir in the remaining 1 table- the drained beans to a processor, and rich as mashed potatoes, with a 1 tablespoon ancho chili powder spoon lard, then taste and season then continue with the recipe as subtle smokiness and surprising 1 teaspoon dried oregano with salt and pepper. instructed. ◆ depth. I even favor them over a

bowl of guacamole. Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

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19_0102_MSM_OaxacanBlackBeans.indd 18 11/27/18 12:11 PM January–February 2019

ver a week in oaxaca, epazote, garlic, onion and salt— OI encountered more iterations: then added more aromatics, avocado some smooth and saucy, with lots leaves and chilies later, just before More ways of chili heat; others more intensely processing. But we found it easier aromatic, spiced with cumin and and more effective to incorporate with refried beans coriander. Each was a rebuke to my the aromatics and chilies at the previous conception of refried beans, start of cooking. That also gave us a ur recipe for Oaxacan formed by mediocre Tex-Mex restau- richly seasoned cooking liquid we O refried black beans makes rants. Far from an obligatory side could use to puree the beans. about 5 cups of beans, enough dish or an easy way to lard a burrito, We started by browning white for one meal, plus leftovers that they’re a daily staple—one that onion, grape tomatoes and seeded can easily become lunch or a light dinner. In Oaxaca, the beans are spread onto tortillas, then folded into half-rounds Baleadas are like neater nachos. or triangles to make tlayudas and tetelas, respectively. Below season with salt and pepper. are a couple of our favorite ways Serve with lime wedges, diced to use them. Be sure to save avocado, sour cream, sliced your bean cooking liquid, which scallions and tortilla chips. you’ll need for the soup, but Honduran Baleadas which is also perfect for reheating refried beans. eat the oven to 450°F Black Bean Soup Hwith racks in the upper- and lower-middle positions. In n a large saucepan over a medium microwave-safe bowl, I medium, heat 3 cups cooking microwave 2 cups refried beans, liquid from refried beans, covered, until hot, about stirring occasionally, until hot. 2 minutes. Stir in 2 tablespoons Refried beans were the first recipe chef Rodolfo Castellanos ever learned. Add 3 cups refried beans and finely chopped fresh cilantro cook, whisking frequently, until and 1 tablespoon lime juice, melds quintessentially Mexican guajillo chilies in lard or coconut the mixture is well combined then taste and season with salt ingredients in one cohesive dish. oil, then added a pound of black and heated through, about and pepper. Place three 8-inch Our first step at Milk Street was beans, garlic cloves, bay leaves, ani- 5 minutes. Off heat, stir in 1/2 cup flour tortillas in a single layer to adjust ingredients. Avocado leaves seed and water. The beans became finely chopped fresh cilantro on each of 2 baking sheets lined were sadly out. That had a more tender in two hours or less, depend- and ¼ cup lime juice. Taste and with kitchen parchment. Spread significant effect than we had ing on their age. (A pressure cooker ⅓ cup of the bean mixture onto anticipated—a side-by-side tasting softened them in just 40 minutes.) each tortilla. Use 1/2 cup shredded revealed that they lent the beans After adding salt, we strained cheddar cheese to sprinkle over much of their complexity, provid- them—reserving the cooking the tortillas, dividing it evenly. ing an herbal backdrop that also liquid—then pureed them in Bake until the cheese melts, 6 to helped boost the other ingredients. the food processor. 8 minutes, switching and We mimicked their flavor by using Next, we briefly bloomed rotating the baking sheets a combination of bay leaves, aniseed cumin, coriander, dried halfway through. Sprinkle and dried oregano. And in order to oregano, smoky ancho with 1/2 cup crumbled offer a lighter-tasting alternative to chili powder and minced cotija cheese, dividing it lard, we also tested our recipe with garlic in the fat; that gave evenly, then top with red refined coconut oil, which was a our beans the depth of and white slaw (p. 8; good substitute. flavor we had enjoyed in optional), diced avocado, We made several changes to Oaxaca without adding tex- pickled jalapeños and technique to account for the differ- ture. We added the puree to thinly sliced scallions. Fold ence in strength between a molino the hot pan and stirred and each tortilla in half and serve. ◆ and a food processor. The cooks we scraped frequently until they were had met cooked dried black beans browned, thick and creamy—just Black bean soup is silky-smoky.

Photos: Eva Alicia Lépiz (Chef Rodolfo Castellanos);very Connie Miller of CB Creatives (beans); Styling: Christine Tobin basically—often with just like Castellanos’. ◆

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19_0102_MSM_OaxacanBlackBeans.indd 19 11/27/18 12:11 PM Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine

o adapt a classic pork stew In Korea, pork and kimchi make us T from Korea, we turned to a cut of Pork and Kimchi Stew meat that’s more at home in Ameri- rethink the basic stew (Kimchi Jjigae) can barbecue: baby back ribs. Salty, spicy and satisfying, kim- Start to finish: 1¼ hours chi jjigae is one of Korea’s most (25 minutes active) | Servings: 6 essential dishes. Savory-sour kimchi, Pork and Kimchi Stew his hearty stew gets layered fatty strips of pork belly and silky heat from gochujang and kimchi. Story by Albert Stumm T cubes of tofu combine with a power- Don’t forget to reserve some of the ful blend of chili flakes, chili paste, kimchi liquid when you drain it. garlic, soy and sesame oil in a rich —Laura Russell stew. When made at home, it’s cooked and served from a large pot 1 cup boiling water set at the center of the table, accom- ½ ounce dried shiitake mushrooms panied by a fleet of small vegetable-­ 6 scallions, white parts finely centric sides and rice. At Korean chopped, green parts thinly barbecue restaurants, it’s often brought sliced on the diagonal, reserved without request, a bold complement separately to a bowl of white rice. 3 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled Recipes vary from household to 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil household, but a few ingredients—the 1 tablespoon soy sauce ones that give the jjigae broth its spicy, 16-ounce container napa cabbage aromatic backbone—are constant: kimchi, drained (¼ cup liquid gochujang, Korea’s umami-­packed fer- reserved) and roughly chopped mented chili paste; gochugaru, Korean 4 teaspoons gochujang chili flakes; garlic; a bit of sugar; and 1 pound baby back ribs, separated sesame oil. Shiitake mushrooms and into individual ribs more scallions are common addi- 14-ounce container firm tofu, tions at the end of cooking. drained, cut into ¾-inch cubes Some recipes start by simply put- 2 teaspoons white sugar ting all the ingredients, including the pork belly, kimchi and cooking liq- ■ In a bowl, combine the boiling water uid, into a cold pot and bringing the A bowl of white rice makes a complete meal of this tangy-spicy Korean stew. and mushrooms. Let sit for 30 minutes. mix to a simmer. Others briefly sauté ■ Drain the mushrooms, reserving the pork and kimchi before the cook- as much flavor as pork belly. Ground boiling water, then adding both the the soaking liquid. Discard the stems ing liquid is added. Either way, the pork would offer more fat but would hydrated mushrooms and the savory and thinly slice the caps. In a large cooking time is usually about half an require shaping—and meatballs would soaking liquid to the stew. Dutch oven over medium-high, hour—just long enough to draw out seem out of place in jjigae. For the alliums, we opted for combine the scallion whites, garlic, depth from the kimchi, but not so That led us to think that baby scallions, adding the whites early sesame oil and soy sauce. Cook, stir- long that the vegetables lose their back ribs could be more than a cut and reserving the greens for later. ring occasionally, until softened, 3 to crunch. The result is a quick stew reserved for barbecue. When braised, The kimchi, too, was added in two 4 minutes. Stir in half of the kimchi, that, in Korea, requires little more the meat becomes supremely tender steps: half of it early to allow it to the mushrooms and the gochujang. than kitchen staples. and the flavor-rich connective tissue soften slightly as the meat cooked, Add 5 cups water, the mushroom Of course, Korean pantry staples clinging to the bones breaks down, and half at the end to provide a con- soaking liquid, ribs and ¼ cup kim- are different from their American creating a luscious pork stock—per- trasting crunch. We added cubes of chi liquid and bring to a boil. Cover counterparts. At Milk Street, we fect for a no-sear stew. They wouldn’t firm tofu at the end, to give the stew partially, reduce to medium-low and knew we’d need to adjust our ingre- be as quick-cooking as the pork belly, even more substance. cook for 50 minutes, adjusting the dients slightly. Kimchi and gochujang but we could save some time by cut- With our ingredient bill adjusted heat to maintain a lively simmer. are increasingly available at main- ting them into individual ribs, then and narrowed to just 10 items (plus ■ Off heat, use tongs to transfer the stream grocery stores, but we ruled shredding their meat before stirring water), we adhered to jjigae’s tradi- ribs to a plate and let rest until cool out gochugaru. it back into the stew. tional method: cook, simmer, serve. enough to handle, about 15 minutes. Pork belly presented another Some jjigae recipes also call for The result was a rich, tangy stew ■ Shred the meat into bite-size problem—it can be hard to find and making a stock to bolster the stew’s that—thanks to meaty ribs and pieces, discarding the bones and car- sometimes requires special ordering. flavor. While we liked the depth that savory fermented staples—packed tilage, and return it to the stew along Replacing it, however, proved tricky. would impart, we didn’t want to far deeper flavor than we’d expect with the tofu, scallion greens, sugar Tenderloin is easy to work with, complicate an otherwise straightfor- from half an hour’s work. Serve it as a and remaining kimchi. Bring to a affordable and always available, but ward recipe. We found middle ground starter, or with a bowl of steamed simmer over medium and cook for

the lean cut wouldn’t impart nearly in simply soaking dried shiitakes in white rice to make a complete meal. 5 minutes. ◆ Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

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19_0102_MSM_PorkKimchiStew.indd 20 11/27/18 12:37 PM January–February 2019

a simple salsa Despite their earthy, smoky fla- for tortilla chips, spooned onto tacos Dried chilies add deep flavor to vor, anchos can taste a bit like prunes or as a marinade for beef, pork or when left alone. But combining them chicken. —Julia Rackow with fresh tomato, garlic and shallot Ancho Chili Salsa Roja balances their sweetness, and the 3 medium ancho chilies, stemmed, brightness of the raw ingredients seeded and torn into pieces emphasizes the chilies’ smoky notes. Boiling water We began by toasting the chilies 1 large garlic clove, smashed and in a dry skillet, pressing them on peeled both sides to maximize contact for 1 medium shallot, roughly chopped more thorough browning. Once they 1 medium vine-ripened tomato, were a couple shades darker, we cored and roughly chopped soaked them in boiling water to soften 2 teaspoons white sugar and rehydrate them. Kosher salt We blended the chilies with the aromatics, fresh water (using the ■ In a 12-inch skillet over medium, soaking liquid makes the salsa bitter) toast the chilies, pressing with a wide and sugar until nearly smooth. metal spatula and flipping once or The resulting salsa retained deep twice, until fragrant and a shade flavor, but the garlic and tomato darker in color, 2 to 4 minutes. Trans- Originally from Puebla, Mexico, ancho chilies have an earthy, smoky flavor. made it a robust condiment, mari- fer to a medium bowl and pour in nade or rich sauce. enough boiling water to cover. Let Story by Albert Stumm smoky flavor is richer than that of stand until softened, about 10 minutes. Drain the chilies most fresh chilies. Ancho Chili Salsa Roja ■ and discard the lassic, fresh salsa—though Deep-red anchos are dried ripe soaking liquid. Transfer to a blender. C delicious as a dip or taco top- poblano chilies. For use when fresh, Start to finish: 15 minutes Add the garlic, shallot, tomato, sugar, ping—can go only so far. Looking to poblanos are harvested green; to make Makes about 1½ cups 1 teaspoon salt and ½ cup cold water. embolden the flavor of that staple anchos, they’re allowed to ripen until resh tomato, garlic and shal- Process until almost smooth and during the winter months, we turned red, developing sweetness that bal- Flot complement the earthy, smoky combined, about 20 seconds, scrap- to the ancho chili, whose deep, ances their moderate heat. notes of ancho chilies. Use it as a dip ing the sides as needed. ◆

■ In a large bowl, toss the shredded Buttery Brussels Sprouts Slaw sprouts with 1½ teaspoons salt. Let stand for 15 minutes. Story by Albert Stumm the sprouts into tender strips. We ■ Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, were able to further tenderize them whisk together the vinegar, mustard oo many slaws are unpleas- by salting them and letting them stand and 1 teaspoon salt. In a small sauce- T antly tough and unappealingly for 15 minutes before dressing them. pan over medium-low, melt the but- cloying, little more than a tangle of For the vinaigrette, we chose ter, then cook, swirling the pan, until raw cabbage and sweet mayonnaise. sherry vinegar. Whole-­grain mustard the milk solids at the bottom are Our goal: a slaw with a tender texture added more bold flavor as well as a bit golden brown and the butter has a and more nuanced taste. of texture. Chopped smoked almonds nutty aroma, 5 to 6 minutes. We took inspiration from chef added crunch, and chewy dried cran- ■ While whisking, gradually add the Gabe Rucker of Le Pigeon restaurant berries lent sweet tang. Shredded sprouts make great slaw. browned butter to the vinegar mix- in Portland. He dresses a raw zucchini ture, then continue to whisk to cool salad with an unusual vinaigrette that Shaved Brussels Sprouts with sit for 15 minutes. This slightly ten- the mixture slightly, about 20 sec- substitutes browned butter for the Browned Butter Vinaigrette derizes the shreds —Diane Unger onds. Stir in the dill and ½ teaspoon traditional oil. The rich, nutty flavor pepper. of the butter adds a depth we don’t Start to finish: 30 minutes 1 pound Brussels sprouts, trimmed ■ Add the smoked almonds and typically associate with raw vegetables. Servings: 8 and finely shredded (see note) cranberries to the sprouts, then pour We adapted this approach to add or speed, shred the sprouts with Kosher salt and ground black pepper the dressing over the mixture and similar richness to basic slaw. Though Fa food processor fitted with a thin ⅔ cup sherry vinegar toss well. Let stand at room tempera- white and red cabbage are classic, for slicing disk (4 millimeters or thinner). 4 teaspoons whole-grain mustard ture for at least 15 minutes to thor- this winter slaw we opted for more Otherwise, halve, then thinly slice 8 tablespoons (1 stick) salted butter oughly season the sprouts, or cover flavorful Brussels sprouts. them by hand using a chef’s knife. ⅓ cup finely chopped fresh dill and let stand for up to 1 hour. Taste A food processor’s slicing disk Don’t dress the shredded sprouts 1 cup smoked almonds, chopped and season with salt and pepper, then

Photos: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling:made Christine Tobin quick work of thinly shredding without first salting and letting them ½ cup dried cranberries transfer to a serving bowl. ◆

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19_0102_MSM_AnchoRojaShavedBrussels.indd 21 11/27/18 12:29 PM Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine

[ MILK STREET O n the R oad ] The New Pulled Pork In Australia, pulled pork becomes a whole new kind of barbecue

Story by J.M. Hirsch

he clichés were there— the meat pies, the flaked Lamington sponge cakes, T the sausage rolls—all the Australian usuals, plied at the Carriageworks Farmers Market, a sprawling rapture of artisanal eats that every Saturday transforms a former rail yard snugged into Sydney’s quiet Eveleigh suburb. I mostly ignored them. It was 9:30 a.m. and it was the Pigalicious that drew me, a tangle of heartily sauced pulled pork tucked into grilled, tender flatbread mounded with arugula and toma- toes, doused with chili mayonnaise. One of a handful of wraps sold by Jason Mills, owner of Bird & Ewe, a mobile barbecue joint that sells At Sydney’s Bird & Ewe, the pulled pork flatbread wrap blends Australian, Korean and Japanese influences. gloriously rich meats at markets around town. at the edge of Asia and long the And at Bird & Ewe, where the ingredients easily transformed a I took my heap of meat outside, recipient of the region’s peoples, search for a fresh and less cloying fatty cut of pork. We stuck closely where seats of overturned milk cultures and cuisines. So much so take on the sweet-savory-spicy to Bird & Ewe’s method, braising crates and wooden boxes awaited in that in a week of eating across that typically defines barbecued pork shoulder in water seasoned the spring sun. It was a glorious Sydney, it became obvious there pulled pork—hugely popular in with gochujang and a bit of white mess to eat—moist, savory, sweet was no point distinguishing between Australia—led the couple to flavors miso. Cutting the shoulder into and spicy, the heat both hedged and Australian and Asian foods. So drawn from Kim’s childhood. They 2-inch cubes helped speed the cook- heightened by the spiked mayo. The enmeshed is one in the other, it is a settled on a blend of sweet white ing and created more surface area effect was superb, and obviously distinction without difference. miso from Japan and fiery gochu- for the liquid to season. not the result of your basic overly It shows up in breakfast spots jang from Korea. While the pork cooked, we sweet barbecue. The secret—it turned like White Taro, where ham and The miso—a salty paste of fer- sliced and browned an onion, then out—was an unexpected marriage. cheese “toasties” share a menu with mented soy—is caramelized with stirred in more white miso, cook- The chalkboard-scrawled offer- Vietnamese pho. At sandwich shops onions almost to the point of ing it down and browning it until ings Mills and his Korean wife, like Relish Food Co., where roast burning, taming its sweetness while jammy. Once the pork was ready, Injeong Kim, have assembled are beef is dressed with lemon grass deepening its richness. The gochu- we shredded it, stirred in the miso vivid. Slow-roasted Australian meats and mint. At burger shops like jang—also a fermented soy paste, onions, then added a bit more and birds heavily accented by the Chur, where the classic Aussie but packed with chili—is added to gochujang for spice and richness. flavors of Asia. Miso. Gochujang. patty—always topped with beets!— stock in which pork shoulder is Heaped onto flatbreads or buns and Wasabi. Sticky rice. Sesame seeds. is capped with an herbal Asian slowly braised. The two elements are topped with crisp quick-pickled Generous handfuls of mint, cilantro, slaw. At bastions of high-end open- stirred together at the end, a deli- carrots and sliced jalapeños, the cumin and coriander. flame cooking like Firedoor, where ciously simple two-stroke solution. result was bold and balanced with- The couple’s cooking tells the the 174-day fat-aged beef rib can be At Milk Street, we loved the out the usual cloying sweetness of

story of Australia, a country perched accompanied by sake service. way the two bold, umami-rich barbecue sauce. ◆ Brancaleone Flavio Photos:

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19_0102_MSM_MisoGochujangPulledPork.indd 22 11/27/18 1:03 PM January–February 2019

[ MILK STREET A t H ome] Pulled Pork Start to finish: 4 hours (1 hour active) Toppings Servings: 6 to 8 e like the miso-­ his asian-inflected take gochujang pulled pork on barbecue pulled pork was W T piled onto soft potato rolls inspired by the Pigalicious wrap and topped with pickled served at Bird & Ewe in Sydney. jalapeños, pickled carrots White miso and gochujang pro- and a smooth, tangy gochu- vide deep, savory-sweet notes and jang-spiked sour cream. lots of complex flavor to oven- braised pork butt. Miso usually Gingery Pickled Carrots is sold in the refrigerator case; Start to finish: 10 minutes, plus gochujang, or Korean red pepper resting | Makes about 2 cups paste, does not require refrigera- tion until the container is opened. 1 cup unseasoned rice Both are available in well-stocked vinegar supermarkets and Asian grocery 1 tablespoon white sugar stores. The pork cooks for about Kosher salt three hours; use this time to prep 3 medium carrots, peeled and cook the miso-seasoned onions and shredded on the large that are combined with the meat Japanese miso and Korean gochujang add spicy richness to pork. holes of a box grater after shredding. 2-inch piece fresh ginger, Don’t forget to skim the fat off peeled and sliced into the cooking liquid so the pulled Miso-Gochujang Pulled Pork thin rounds pork doesn’t end up greasy. But ■ In a large bowl, stir make sure to allow the liquid to ■ Heat the oven to 325°F with a ■ Using a slotted spoon, transfer together the vinegar, sugar settle before skimming so all the rack in the lower-middle position. the pork to a large bowl. When and 1 teaspoon salt. Stir in fat has time to rise to the surface. In a large Dutch oven, combine the cool enough to handle, shred into the carrots and ginger. Cover —Diane Unger pork, ½ cup of the gochujang, bite-size pieces, discarding any and refrigerate for at least 2 tablespoons of the miso, the fat; set aside. Remove and discard 3 hours or up to 24 hours. 5-pound boneless pork butt, cilantro stems, hoisin, ginger and the ginger chunks from the cook- trimmed and cut into 2-inch 1 cup water; stir to combine. Bring ing liquid. Tilt the pot to pool the Gochujang Sour Cream cubes to a simmer over medium-­high, liquid to one side and use a wide Start to finish: 5 minutes ¾ cup gochujang, divided then cover and place in the oven. spoon to skim off and discard as Makes about ¾ cup 6 tablespoons white miso, divided Cook until a skewer inserted into much fat as possible from the 1 bunch fresh cilantro, stems the meat meets no resistance, surface. Bring to a simmer over ½ cup sour cream minced, leaves left whole, about 3 hours. medium-high and cook, stirring 4 to 6 tablespoons reserved separately ■ Meanwhile, in a 12-inch non- occasionally, until reduced by gochujang, to taste ¼ cup hoisin sauce stick skillet over medium-­high, about half and a spatula drawn ■ In a small bowl, whisk to- 3 ounces fresh ginger, peeled and heat the oil until shimmering. Add through the sauce leaves a trail, gether the sour cream and cut into 3 chunks the onions and ½ teaspoon salt, 5 to 7 minutes. gochujang. Cover and refrig- 2 tablespoons grapeseed or other then reduce to medium. Cook, ■ Whisk the remaining 4 table- erate for up to 1 week. neutral oil stirring occasionally, until the spoons gochujang into the sauce. ◆ 2 large yellow onions, thinly onions are golden, about 15 min- Stir in the pork and onions. Reduce sliced utes. Stir in the remaining 4 table- to medium and cook, stirring fre- Kosher salt and ground black spoons miso and cook, stirring, quently, until heated through, 5 to pepper until the miso begins to brown, 10 minutes. Off heat, stir in the 3 tablespoons unseasoned rice about 5 minutes. Transfer to a vinegar. Taste and season with vinegar plate and let cool, then cover and pepper. Serve with cilantro leaves, Pickled jalapeños, to serve refrigerate until ready to use. pickled carrots and jalapeños. ◆ Photos: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Catherine Smart

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19_0102_MSM_MisoGochujangPulledPork.indd 23 11/27/18 1:03 PM Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine

[ MILK STREET O n the R oad ]

When in Salzburg, always order Weisswurst, soft pretzels, Rindsgulasch (goulash) and a Stiegl, the local beer. Don’t ask about “The Sound of Music.” Tired of Beef Stew? Try Austrian Goulash A rich, buttery beef stew offers hints of paprika and caraway

Story by Christopher Kimball Wienerschnitzel is best ordered in Vienna, where it is served crispy, piping-hot and with the f you want authentic Austrian food in correct thickness of coating to meat. But when at Salzburg, head to s’Herzl on Getreidegasse, s’Herzl, always order a Stiegl—the local beer— the main shopping street. At first, one which is clean and bright. Other staples include I appears to have entered an Epcot dining Tafelspitz (boiled beef with horseradish sauce experience—the small dining room is wood-­ and root vegetables) and Rindsgulasch, the clas- paneled and suitably medieval, and the waitstaff sic Austrian beef goulash, or beef stew. wear the classic Austrian dirndl. Austrian goulash is a very particular dish. Fortunately, the food is more than solid, and The sauce is thick and creamy-smooth—different one is not subjected to the best hits from “The from a Hungarian goulash, which is brothier. It is Sound of Music.” (That movie, by the way, is flavored with distinct notes of dill and caraway. about as culturally accurate as, say, the portrait Given the large amount of paprika, the color can of small-town Iowa in “The Music Man.”) The be mahogany, even oxblood. Beef is the meat of go-to dishes are the Weisswurst with large soft choice, though goulash can be made with pork pretzels, served with Senf, a slightly sweet mus- or even veal, the latter being rare. tard; or the Gemischter Salat, which is a mix of One can get a more than decent version of grated carrots, greens and cucumber with dill, this dish in New York, at Café Sabarsky at the

and first-rate Austrian potato salad. s’Herzl, on Getreidegasse, offers excellent fare. Neue Galerie at East 86th Street and Fifth Photos: Scott Wilson/Alamy Stock Photo (Saltzburg aerial view); Mason Vranish/Alamy Stock Photo (Getreidegasse)

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19_0102_MSM_AustrianGoulash.indd 24 11/27/18 1:28 PM January–February 2019

Avenue. Chef Kurt Gutenbrunner uses a hefty turns out, this technique is not so unusual for to brown the meat, avoiding the annoying recipe dose of onions to create a velvety, paprika-­ goulash; according to my Salzburg in-laws, a directive, “brown the meat in two or three batches.” heavy sauce for boneless beef shins. It is usually roux is standard operating procedure.) We then Finally, we added fresh dill and a touch of cider served with Spätzle or Semmelknödel (bread stirred in both sweet and hot paprika. vinegar to punch up the flavors. dumplings). This dish is entirely different from Next, we whisked in 2 cups of beef broth for- Taste memory is a powerful thing. My first Gulaschsuppe, which is, as its name suggests, tified with tomato paste (we prefer water in most spoonful of Milk Street’s goulash brought me more soup than stew and served with potatoes. stew applications, but this dish calls for a rich right back to s’Herzl. The sauce was buttery, The key to this recipe is the smooth, buttery foundation). The raw beef, which we seasoned smooth and creamy, and the taste of onion, dill sauce. At Milk Street, if we skipped using a thick- with salt, pepper and paprika, went in along and caraway were evident but secondary to the ener, we were left with a watery sauce. But a with marjoram and bay leaves. beef and paprika. The dish is subtle—a bit like cornstarch slurry didn’t produce the rich under- We cooked it covered in a 325°F oven for two the Austrians themselves. Ask a Salzburg native tones that this dish calls for, either. So we hours, but the stew is finished uncovered—a about the “Sound of Music” tour and they will employed a familiar thickening method—add- method Milk Street has purloined (the Spanish smile and reply, “Ich verstehe nicht,” pretending ing flour to the butter-softened onion to create a and Italians figured this out centuries ago). that they don’t speak English, patiently waiting roux, which we then spiced with caraway. (As it Cooking uncovered allows the heat of the oven for the tourist season to end. ◆

[ MILK STREET A t H ome] Austrian Beef Stew with Paprika and Caraway (Rindsgulasch) Start to finish: 4 hours (30 minutes active) Servings: 6 his simple stew, inspired 5 pounds boneless beef chuck T in part by classic Austrian roast, trimmed, cut into iterations and in part by Kurt 1½-inch pieces and patted dry Gutenbrunner’s recipe in “Neue 6 tablespoons Hungarian sweet Cuisine,” derives much of its bold paprika, divided A combination of sweet and hot paprika gives our goulash complexity. flavor and rich color from sweet Kosher salt and ground black and hot paprika, so make sure the pepper ■ Heat the oven to 325°F with a the broth mixture and bring to a paprika you use is fresh and fra- 2 cups low-sodium beef broth rack in the lower-middle position. simmer, stirring frequently. Stir grant. For the deepest, earthiest ¼ cup tomato paste Season the beef with 1 tablespoon in the beef, bay and marjoram (if flavor, we recommend seeking out 4 tablespoons (½ stick) salted of the sweet paprika, 2 teaspoons using), then bring to a simmer true Hungarian paprika; we use a butter salt and 1 teaspoon pepper; toss to over medium-­high. Cover, place combination of sweet and hot to 1 large yellow onion, finely coat. In a measuring cup or bowl, in the oven and cook for 2 hours. achieve just the right degree of chopped whisk the broth and tomato paste. ■ Remove the pot from the oven. spice. Serve with egg noodles, 2 tablespoons caraway seeds, ■ In a large Dutch oven over Uncover and stir, then return to Spätzle or mashed potatoes. lightly crushed medium, melt the butter. Add the the oven uncovered and continue Don’t be shy about trimming ⅓ cup all-purpose flour onion and 1 teaspoon salt, then to cook until a skewer inserted the chuck roast; removing as much 1 tablespoon Hungarian hot cook, stirring occasionally, until into the meat meets no resistance, fat as possible before cooking pre- paprika the onion is lightly browned, 8 to another 1 to 1½ hours. Remove vents the stew from becoming 3 bay leaves 10 minutes. Stir in the caraway from the oven, stir and let stand, too greasy. In our experience, the 2 teaspoons dried marjoram and flour, then cook, stirring, until uncovered, at room temperature roast usually loses about 1 pound (optional) the flour begins to brown, 2 to for 15 minutes. Stir in the dill and with trimming. To prevent over- ¼ cup finely chopped fresh dill, 4 minutes. Stir in the hot paprika vinegar. Taste and season with cooking, don’t cut the beef smaller plus dill sprigs to serve and remaining 5 tablespoons sweet salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls than 1½-inch pieces. 1 tablespoon cider vinegar paprika and cook until fragrant, and garnish with dill sprigs. Serve —Diane Unger Sour cream, to serve about 30 seconds. Slowly whisk in with sour cream. ◆ Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Catherine Smart

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19_0102_MSM_AustrianGoulash.indd 25 11/27/18 1:28 PM Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine

Garifuna cuisine draws on tropical ingredients like plantains, cassava and coconut milk, the latter of which gives durudia (Honduran tortillas) their richness.

Coconut milk is the secret ingredient in Honduras’ flour tortillas

he story of the Garifuna people, and was immediately charmed by its sound: a mix according to legend, starts with a ship- Isha Sumner of French, West African and local Caribbean dia- wreck. A slave ship from Nigeria foun- lect. Sumner was kind enough to count to ten in Tdered off St. Vincent, and the survivors Speaks and Cooks Garifuna—aba, biama, üruwa, gadurü, sengü, sisi, intermingled with both the native Arawaks and sedü, vidü, nefu and disi—and I was twice Caribs, eventually creating the Garifuna people. charmed. It makes Italian sound positively unro- In 1797, the British expelled the Garifuna, and Garifuna mantic. (Note that sisi, nefu and disi are quite many of the survivors ended up in coastal Hondu- close to the French six, neuf and dix.) ras; others fanned out across Central America. Story by Christopher Kimball In her kitchen, I was quickly put to good use Today, there are large communities of Garifuna in mashing cooked plantains using a large wooden New York City, New Orleans, Miami and Los mortar and pestle. This is the starting point for Angeles. There are twice as many Garifuna living many dishes, including hudutu, the most famous in New York than Honduras. of Garifuna recipes, a stew made from pounded That’s the history; now let me introduce you to plantains, fish and coconut. As Sumner’s sister Isha Sumner and the future of Garifuna. Lina said, “While the plantains are boiling, men I visited Sumner on Cape Cod last summer to take a nap and expect to be awakened to do the cook a few traditional dishes with her and her mashing.” I didn’t get the nap, but I did get the mother, Sara Martinez. Sumner is a barely contained workout. The trick, as I soon discovered, was to lift maelstrom of energy, exuding enormous enthusi- up the long, heavy wooden pestle, then let gravity asm for all things Garifuna. She was born in Hon- do the rest. duras, lives in East Harlem and briefly returned to In addition to hudutu, the menu included a her birthplace with her sister to record the recipes fabulous bowl of mashed black beans, cassava of her childhood. She founded the Weiga (which bread, darasa (tamales made from green bananas) translates as “Let’s Eat”) catering company and is and—my favorite item—durudia tortillas. Thicker an actress—she appeared on “Law and Order”—as and fluffier than Mexican tortillas, they get rich- well as a cookbook author. ness in flavor and texture from coconut milk. Before meeting Sumner, I spent some time To make the durudia tortillas, Sumner first

researching the Garifuna language on YouTube Isha Sumner mixed wheat flour with a bit of salt, brown sugar, Photos: Neil Cooper/Alamy Stock Photo (canoe); Larissa Adamczyk (Isha Sumner); Connie Miller of CB Creatives (tortilla); Styling: Christine Tobin

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19_0102_MSM_CoconutFlourTortilla.indd 26 11/27/18 1:34 PM January–February 2019

Coconut Milk-Flour Tortillas Start to finish: 1 hour 10 minutes (35 minutes active) | Makes 8 tortillas hese flatbread-like tortillas are T our adaptation of Isha Sumner’s durudia, or Honduran tortillas. The soft, chewy rounds are rich in flavor thanks to a bit of butter and a hefty dose of coconut milk; the latter also makes the dough extremely easy to roll out. The tortillas taste best when freshly made, but leftovers can be 1. After incorporating 2. Continue mixing until 3. Transfer to the 4. Using a bench scraper cooled, stacked, wrapped in foil and stored at the butter and with the a dough forms that counter, then use your or a sharp chef’s room temperature for up to two days. To reheat, mixer running on clears the sides of the hands to shape the knife, divide the dough place the foil-wrapped stack directly in a 350°F medium-low, gradually bowl. After kneading for dough into a 14-inch cylinder into 8 even oven for 10 to 15 minutes. pour the coconut milk about 5 minutes, the cylinder about 2 inches pieces. Next, shape each Don’t use light coconut milk. The fat content into the dough mixture. dough should be smooth. in diameter. piece into a loose ball. of regular coconut milk is necessary for tender tortillas. Make sure to vigorously shake the can before measuring to distribute the fat that rises to the top upon standing. —Erika Bruce

390 grams (3 cups) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 2 teaspoons packed light or dark brown sugar 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon baking powder 3 tablespoons salted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes, softened 1 cup full-fat coconut milk 5. Roll each ball against 6. Using a rolling pin, 7. Place a dough round 8. Continue to cook In a stand mixer the counter to form a roll each ball into an in the hot skillet and cook until the bottom is light ■ with the dough hook, mix the tighter ball. Don’t flour 8-inch round, stacking until bubbles form; gently spotty brown. Then, flour, sugar, salt and baking powder on medium-­ the counter so that the the rounds as they are shake the pan to loosen using tongs, flip and low until combined, about 30 seconds. Add the dough slightly grips it, done between pieces of the tortilla and ensure cook until the second butter and mix until the mixture is crumbly, about making it easier to shape. parchment. that it does not stick. side is spotty brown. 1 minute. With the mixer running, gradually add ◆ the coconut milk, then continue mixing until a smooth dough forms, about 5 minutes. butter and baking powder in a large bowl. Then even better with mashed black beans—but they ■ Transfer to the counter, then use your hands to she poured in coconut milk, incorporating it into were a tad thick and bready, more like flatbread roll the dough into a 14-inch log about 2 inches in the flour by hand—taking it from a shaggy mix- than tortilla. We wanted to make them thinner diameter. Cut into 8 even pieces, then form each ture to a soft and smooth dough. and a bit closer to flour tortillas in texture. piece into a tight, smooth ball. Place on a large She separated the dough into two balls, then We tested a number of ingredient substitu- plate, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for let it rest for a while before dividing it into smaller tions, coconut oil for coconut milk, for example, 30 minutes or up to 24 hours. portions to rest a second time. We pressed and and cornstarch for part of the flour. But Sumner’s ■ Using a rolling pin, roll each ball on a lightly patted the dough into plump disks, forming the ingredient list was spot on: flour, brown sugar, floured counter to an 8-inch round, stacking the durudia. The tortillas cooked in a hot cast-iron salt, baking powder, butter and coconut milk. rounds as they are done between pieces of kitchen skillet, about 90 seconds per side, developing The only substantive change we made to the parchment. speckles of browning on their pale, tender surface. recipe was to reduce the proportion of coconut ■ Heat a 10- or 12-inch cast-iron skillet over In Cape Cod, I ate more than my share of milk to flour. We also divided the dough right medium until a drop of water sizzles immediately, durudia and hudutu and listened to the sound of after mixing to eliminate the second resting 4 to 6 minutes. Place a dough round in the skillet Sumner and Martinez speaking in their native period, and made the tortillas larger—producing and cook until bubbles begin to form, then gently language. Garifuna is the language of food, one thinner end results that were less bready than shake the pan. Continue to cook until the bottom that easily romanced this home cook. Sumner’s durudia. is lightly spotted brown, then, using tongs, flip and The beauty of this dough is that it is soft and cook until the second side is spotted brown; the t milk street, we loved the rich flavor of easy to roll out. Anybody can make durudia. All total cooking time should be about 3 minutes. Trans- A these coconut milk tortillas—they were savory you need is a few basic ingredients, a skillet and an fer to a kitchen towel and wrap loosely. Repeat

Photos: Connie Miller of CB Creatives and faintly sweet, good enough to eat plain and hour, most of it napping time. with the remaining tortillas. Serve warm. ◆

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19_0102_MSM_CoconutFlourTortilla.indd 27 11/27/18 1:34 PM Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine

sweeter take with a flavor reminis- cent of caramel corn, we switched to [ KITCHEN COUNTS ] light brown sugar and flavored the butter with cardamom, cinnamon and Roasting Vegetables a bit of cayenne. is one of the easiest ways to cook vegetables. The roasting Spiced Butter Popcorn dry heat encourages browning, creating aromatic compounds and toasted flavors. A toss with oil and salt beforehand is Start to finish: 10 minutes | Makes 6 cups sometimes all that's needed to round out the results. his cumin-curry blend is But while it seems simple, there are a surprising number Tbold and savory; if you prefer a of variables to roasting vegetables. From cauliflower to mixture of sugar and spice, see the carrots, each has a different form, water content and density—meaning each alternative recipe below. To make the can require different prep, roasting time and temperature. We wanted a amount of popcorn called for without singular go-to reference for perfectly roasted vegetables. special equipment, combine ⅓ cup So we prepared nine common vegetables, measuring everything from Tarka improves the ultimate snack. popcorn kernels with 1 tablespoon time and temperature to the amount of oil and salt. We started with grapeseed or other neutral oil in a large saucepan. Cover and heat over [ ROASTING TIMES ] Spicing up medium-high until the kernels begin EXTRA- STIR to pop, then reduce to medium and ROASTING VIRGIN KOSHER COOK TIME HALFWAY VEGETABLE WEIGHT PREPARATION TEMP OLIVE OIL SALT (in minutes) THROUGH? Popcorn continue to cook, shaking the pan Asparagus 1 lb Tough bottoms 475°F 1 T ¼ t 7-12 No occasionally, until the popping slows trimmed, ~1 in. to 3 or 4 seconds between bursts. removed For more flavorful popcorn, Don’t overtoast the spices or Broccoli 1½ lbs 1-in. wide florets, 500°F 3 T 1 t 15-20 Yes their flavor will become bitter. Once stems peeled and cut into ¼-in. coins season the fat the mixture is aromatic and the but- ter is foamy, it’s ready to be drizzled. Brussels Sprouts 1½ lbs Trimmed, halved 475°F 2 T 1 t 15-20 No Story by Albert Stumm —Courtney Hill Butternut Squash 2 lbs Peeled, seeded, 500°F 1½ T 1 t 35-40 Yes (~1 med.) 1-in. pieces Carrots 2 lbs Peeled, 1-in. pieces 500°F 2 T 1½ t 20-25 Yes arka is a South Asian flavoring 6 to 7 cups popped popcorn technique that adds bold flavor (see note) Cauliflower 2 lbs Cored, 1-in. florets 500°F 1 C 1½ t 10-15 No T (~1 med.) and texture to basic dishes in just 3 tablespoons salted butter Green Beans 1 lb Trimmed, left whole 475°F 2 T ½ t 12-17 No minutes. It’s made by adding whole 1½ teaspoons ground cumin Sweet Potatoes 2 lbs Peeled, 1-in. pieces 500°F 2 T 2 t 30-35 Yes and ground spices, herbs and aro- 1 teaspoon curry powder Yukon Gold Potatoes 3 lbs Peeled, 1-in. pieces 500°F 1 C 2 t 45-50 Yes matics (fresh and dried) to hot fat— 1 teaspoon ground fennel seeds typically ghee—and briefly cooking 1 teaspoon white sugar common weights—a medium butternut squash, for instance, weighs about and swirling them together, infusing ¼ to ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper 2 pounds—and basic cuts, using 1-inch pieces in most cases. Some items the fat with deep flavor. Rather than Kosher salt needed only trimming. We tossed all the vegetables with varying amounts straining the mixture, cooks use it Place the popcorn of olive oil and salt, then roasted them on low-rimmed baking sheets. We straight, lending dishes complexity ■ in a large bowl. gauged tenderness and browning to determine the timings. and sometimes a bit of crunch. In a small saucepan over medium-­ While the results were fairly straightforward—producing roasted While tarka is traditional with high, heat the butter until almost vegetables our kitchen was happy to snack on—we did make some crucial dals, sambars and stir-fries, we dis- fully melted. Add the cumin, curry notes along the way. For pan prep, we skipped parchment or foil. The covered it’s also a perfect match for powder, fennel, sugar and cayenne, former can burn in high heat and the latter caused sticking. A metal spatula popcorn. Though we love the smooth, then cook, swirling, until aromatic was the best tool for flipping and stirring, which prevents scorching the intensely buttery flavor of ghee, it and the butter is foamy, 30 to 45 sec- pan. But stirring didn’t benefit all the vegetables. Leaving some can be pricey and hard to find. So we onds. Immediately pour over the undisturbed actually led to better browning, as with the sprouts. developed recipes for two butter-­ popcorn, then sprinkle with 1½ tea- Minding the vegetables’ structure was important. Sturdier items like based tarkas (ghee and coconut oil spoons salt and toss. Taste and sea- work equally well). We also mini- broccoli developed better color at higher temperatures; they also required son with additional salt. mized whole spices or herbs, which less attention under the high heat. More delicate vegetables such as green tended to sift to the bottom of a bowl. For Spicy-Sweet Popcorn: beans fared better at a slightly lower heat and required closer monitoring. Instead, we stuck with ground spices, Follow the above instructions, Finally, when determining doneness, insert a paring knife into large ■ salt and a bit of sugar for balance. pieces to check for tenderness, but be sure the vegetables have browned replacing the spices and sugar with For our first tarka, we used a as well. Some items, like potatoes, soften early on but aren’t truly done 2 teaspoons packed light brown sugar, blend of ground cumin, fennel, curry until they’re brown and crispy. 1 teaspoon ground cardamom and ◆ powder, cayenne and a bit of white ½ teaspoon each ground cinnamon and

sugar to season the butter. For a cayenne. Proceed with the recipe. ◆ Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

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19_0102_MSM_TarkaPopcorn.indd 28 11/19/18 3:15 PM January–February 2019

Individual simple-to-make pudding cakes bake up with a silky sauce underneath Maple-Whiskey Pudding Cakes

Story by Albert Stumm

anadian cookbook author complexity and cut the sweetness. CTara O’Brady is the first to admit Replacing the brown sugar in the that self-saucing pudding cakes don’t sauce with maple syrup added depth. start out pretty. But thanks to a bit of We also tripled the amount of whis- culinary magic, the end product is as key for more pronounced bite, split- impressive as it is elegant. “You put ting the liquor between the sauce and this thing in the oven that looks like batter. For a sharp note to balance sludge, and it comes out beautiful the sugars, we spiked the sauce with a and with its own sauce,” she says. teaspoon of cider vinegar. Neither a custard nor a classic Preparing the batter took just cake, self-saucing pudding cakes are 20 minutes. First, we made the whis- made by placing a simple batter in key sauce, then we browned the but- oiled ramekins or a baking dish and ter. For the batter, we combined carefully covering it with a sauce. white sugar with milk, egg, vanilla As the cake cooks—sometimes it’s and a little more whiskey. The pecans steamed but more often baked—the were processed until they turned into heat thins the sauce, allowing it to a coarse meal, which we mixed with flow down the slippery sides of the baking powder, salt and slightly less ramekin. Meanwhile, the baking pow- flour than O’Brady’s recipe. The higher Cider vinegar balances the sweetness of this cake’s maple-whiskey sauce. der in the batter is activated, releas- ratio of pecans enhanced the des- ing carbon dioxide and causing the sert’s overall nuttiness and resulted Don’t stir the whiskey syrup and the milk solids are deep golden cake to rise. Within 15 minutes, the in a batter that baked up into an airy, the batter after dividing them among brown and the butter has a nutty batter and sauce separate and switch moist-crumbed cake. the ramekins. —Cristin Walsh aroma, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a places. The result is a delicate cake set After dividing the batter into bowl and cool to room temperature. above a pool of silky sauce. ramekins, we gently poured the pre- 6 tablespoons maple syrup ■ Meanwhile, heat the oven to 325°F The variations are endless—dark pared sauce over top. Within 30 min- 1 teaspoon cider vinegar with a rack in the middle position. chocolate, lemon curd and caramel utes, we had four small cakes that 6 tablespoons whiskey, divided Mist four 6-ounce ramekins with cook- apple, to name a few—and they can were light, gooey and warm—and 8 tablespoons (1 stick) salted butter, ing spray and place on a rimmed bak- be as simple as dusting uncooked floating above a rich sauce. A spoon divided ing sheet. When the butter is cool, batter with cocoa and sugar, then easily broke through the fluffy cake Kosher salt whisk in the sugar, milk, egg, vanilla pouring a little water on top. to the pool of sauce below. 107 grams (½ cup) white sugar and remaining 2 tablespoons whiskey. O’Brady, who was raised in “When you put it on the table, ¼ cup whole milk ■ In a food processor, process the Canada by Indian parents and an there’s gasps and sighs and it feels 1 large egg pecans until finely ground and begin- Anglophile grandmother, includes a like a surprise,” O’Brady says. “How 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ning to clump, 30 to 40 seconds. Add pecan-inflected pudding cake in her often are you able to do that?” 90 grams (¾ cup) pecans, toasted the flour, baking powder and ½ tea- cookbook, “Seven Spoons.” She grinds 65 grams (½ cup) all-purpose flour spoon salt, then pulse until com- toasted nuts and combines them with Maple-Whiskey 1 teaspoon baking powder bined, about 5 pulses. Add the butter all-purpose flour, brown butter, brown Pudding Cakes mixture and pulse until a smooth, sugar, eggs, milk and vanilla to create ■ In a small saucepan over medium, thick batter forms, about 5 pulses, a batter, which she also laces with Start to finish: 45 minutes combine ½ cup water, the maple syrup, scraping down the bowl once. 2 tablespoons of whiskey. The booze’s (20 minutes active) | Servings: 4 vinegar, 4 tablespoons of the whis- ■ Divide the batter among the pre- bite counteracts the brown sugar ur favorite whiskeys for these key, 2 tablespoons of the butter and ¼ pared ramekins. Gently pour the maple sweetness in her buttery sauce. Ocakes were Jameson for its clean, teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil, stirring mixture over the batter in each rame- At Milk Street, we loved the mar- bright flavor and Rittenhouse rye for occasionally. Reduce to low and sim- kin. Do not stir. Bake until the cakes riage of pecans and whiskey, and its spicy depth. This recipe can easily mer for 5 minutes. Set aside off heat. are puffed and the centers jiggle only O’Brady’s use of brown butter to be doubled to serve eight. Serve warm ■ In another saucepan over medium, slightly, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool on reinforce the cake’s nuttiness. But with vanilla ice cream or lightly melt the remaining 6 tablespoons the baking sheet for 10 minutes; the

Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling:we Christine Tobin made several changes to add sweetened whipped cream. butter. Cook, swirling the pan, until cakes will fall slightly as they cool. ◆

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19_0102_MSM_MapleWhiskeyCake.indd 29 11/27/18 1:45 PM Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine

Off the Air Questions & Answers from Milk Street Radio

clearly. To see how all three contact with the pan. There are the choices can be confusing. compared, we used them to make times, however, when a slower, To make sense of them, we brownies and chocolate cake. gentler approach is best. A cold looked at four broad categories of Tasters much preferred the balanced pan and cold oil are the way to go chili sauce: Sriracha, chili-garlic sweetness and intense chocolate when cooking items that easily sauce, sambal oelek and sweet flavor of cacao powder in the burn, such as fresh herbs and spices chili sauce. (We skipped Heinz brownies. With the cake, the results (see the spiced butter popcorn on Chili Sauce and similar products, were less straightforward, with p. 28). Cold oil is also best for which are more tomato than smooth Dutch-process cocoa drawing out fuller flavor, as when chili.) Sriracha—typically sold in as the favorite, and cacao and sweating aromatics. This is plastic squeeze bottles—is a natural cocoa tying for second especially true for all members smooth, bright-red hot sauce place. In general, cacao powder of the garlic and onion family, made from chilies, sugar, salt, can be substituted for natural which release flavorful enzymes garlic and vinegar. Its sweet-hot cocoa when a more robust when chopped or sliced. Those balance makes it an ideal Cocoa vs. Cacao Powder chocolate flavor is desired. But enzymes are deactivated by heat, condiment. Savory-sweet chili- the lack of alkalinity makes it a which means adding them to hot garlic sauce—typically sold in poor substitute in recipes that oil will quickly dull their flavor. jars—is made from chilies, salt, t was hard enough call for Dutch-­process cocoa. So as a general rule, heat your oil garlic and vinegar. Unlike knowing which cocoa powder I when you need a quick sear or Sriracha, it has a coarse, slightly to use when we had two choices: worry that ingredients might thick texture that works well in Dutch-process and natural. Cooking with Cold Oil stick, but start cold when marinades, glazes and homemade Rachel Rotterman of Boston working with delicate foods or sauces, but we also use it as a points out there’s a third option— any recipes begin by creating more nuanced flavor. condiment. Sambal oelek—also cacao powder. She wondered if it heating oil in a pan, then M jarred—is an Indonesian sauce could be used in place of the others. adding other ingredients. But made with just chilies, salt and a there are plenty of exceptions all three are made by bit of vinegar; it has a clear, bright that call for starting with cold oil. processing the dried, fermented flavor that’s intensely spicy. Jessica Keahey of Fayetteville, beans of cacao pods; the differences Because of its potency, we use it Arkansas, recently asked why arise in how they are processed. sparingly in marinades, sauces it matters and when each Natural cocoa powder is extracted and noodle or rice dishes. Finally, approach is best. from beans that have been roasted sweet chili sauce, sold in glass at high temperatures to remove the answer requires an bottles in many Asian markets, is much of the bitterness. Dutch-­ understanding of the different a tangy-sweet, slightly syrupy process cocoa powder is made roles oil can play. In many cases, Thai condiment. It’s most often much the same, but the beans are hot oil—generally the result of used for dipping spring rolls or treated with alkali, neutralizing adding oil to a pan, then heating fried foods. We like the flavor and their natural astringency and it until shimmering or barely body of Maesri’s sweet chili sauce. giving them and the resulting smoking—can be nothing more For Sriracha, chili-garlic sauce powder a darker hue. For this than a visual cue that the pan is Choosing Chili Sauces and sambal oelek, our preferred reason, many recipes that specify sufficiently hot. This is because a brand is Huy Fong Foods—often natural cocoa powder also hot pan is crucial for properly e frequently call identified by its rooster logo and include baking soda, which has searing and sautéing, and must Wfor chili-­garlic sauce in bright green cap. ◆ alkaline qualities that balance be at temperature before the food Asian-inspired recipes. But the cocoa’s acidity. Beans for is added. But hot oil can also Bill Kennedy of Victoria, Milk Street Radio cacao powder are cold-pressed, serve a role in preventing sticking; British Columbia, noted that is a weekly, hour-long public which exposes them to much less it can instantly cook the surface supermarkets offer many varieties radio broadcast and podcast. heat, allowing their bitterness— of an ingredient—steaks or eggs, of similar chili sauces. He asked Subscribe on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and depth—to come through for example—before it makes for guidance on which to use. TuneIn, Stitcher and Google Play. Illustrations: John Dykes (Sara Moulton and Christopher Kimball); Ross MacDonald (cocoa, chili sauces)

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19_0102_MSM_RadioQA.indd 30 11/27/18 2:37 PM January–February 2019

[ MILK STREET ] C ooking S chool Red Miso Broth Start to finish: 10 minutes Miso turns water into Makes 1 quart hese broths can be cooled broth in just minutes T and stored in the refrigerator for up to five days. Miso settles upon standing, so stir the broths 10-Minute to recombine before using. Stock —Courtney Hill 4 medium garlic cloves, smashed Story by Christopher Kimball and peeled 2 tablespoons tomato paste started out old school when These miso broths can act as the base for chicken soup or hearty stew. ½ cup red miso I it came to stock. My first cook- ing instructor introduced me to the This was a revelation not only true to a simpler, cleaner palette. ■ In a saucepan over medium, all-day stockpot, simmered over a in terms of saving time, but also So for our red miso broth, we sim- combine the garlic and tomato low flame, transforming chicken in prompting me to rethink what plified to just garlic and tomato paste. Cook, stirring occasionally, carcasses, parsley stems, onion, stock is. It’s not a meat broth—it’s paste, plus a half cup of red miso. until the tomato paste has browned, carrot and a bouquet garni into a nothing more than flavored water. The tomato paste is sautéed with 2 to 3 minutes. Add 4 cups water, foundation for soups and stews. Miso is made from soybeans the garlic to intensify its flavor, then whisk in the miso. Bring to a Later, I moved to a one-hour that have been fermented with then water and red miso are added. gentle simmer, then reduce to stock made with chicken thighs or rice or another grain such as Simmer and cook, then strain. medium-low and cook, stirring wings sweated, then simmered in barley. White miso uses rice and Our white miso broth is much the occasionally, for 5 minutes. Strain water with the usual suspects. Either is slightly sweet. Red miso has a same, with ginger and chopped through a fine-mesh strainer. way, the message was clear: Stock higher percentage of soybeans shallot instead of tomato paste. is flavored with meat and bones. and barley, and often undergoes a It’s good for poaching chicken and For White Miso Broth: Well, the rest of the world longer fermentation. making lighter soup. The red miso ■ Follow the instructions for red might not agree, as I discovered Given our culinary training, broth has a stronger, more savory miso broth, replacing the tomato during a recent visit to Tokyo. The it was hard to give up a multi- flavor and is better for hearty paste with 1 ounce fresh ginger umami-rich seaweed kombu pro- layered approach to making broth. applications like stews and braises. (peeled, smashed) and 1 shallot vides a subtle flavoring when We tested the addition of garlic, Use these broths in recipes (chopped); cook the garlic, ginger steeped in water. Of greater inter- scallions, white peppercorns, car- that call for chicken broth or stock. and shallot until browned, about est was miso, which, when whisked rot, onion, star anise and shallot. Once again, home cooks around 2 minutes. Add 4 cups water, then into water, made a great starting Although these more complex rec- the world have a lot to teach us— whisk in 1/2 cup white miso and point or “stock” for many dishes. ipes were good, we wanted to stay like water for stock. continue with the recipe. ◆

UNITED STATES POSTAL SERVICE 2018 STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT, AND CIRCULATION 1. Publication Title: Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Magazine; 2. Publication Number: 2473- 7305; 3. Filing Date: 10/1/18; 4. Issue Frequency: Bimonthly; 5. Number of Issues Published Annually: 6; 6. Annual Subscription Price: $29.95; 7. Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: 177 Milk Street, Suite 100, Boston, MA 02109-3417; 8. Complete Mailing Address of Headquarters or General Business Office of Publisher: 177 Milk Street, Suite 100, Boston, MA 02109-3417; 9. Full Name and Complete Mailing Address of the Publisher, Editor, Managing Editor: Publisher: Christopher Kimball, 177 Milk Street, Suite 100, Boston, MA 02109-3417; Editor: J.M. Hirsch, 177 Milk Street, Suite 100, Boston, MA 02109-3417; Managing Editor: Jenn Ladd, 177 Milk Street, Suite 100, Boston, MA 02109-3417; 10. Owner: CPK Media LLC, 177 Milk Street, Suite 100, Boston, MA 02109-3417; 11. Known Bondholders, Mortgages, and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages, or Securities: Not Applicable; 12. Not Applicable; 13. Publication Title: Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Magazine; 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: September/October-2018; 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation: A. Total Number of Copies. Average No. of Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 231,098 (Sep/Oct-18: 180,047); B.1. Paid Circulation Mailed Outside-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541. Average No. of Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 126,901 (Sep/Oct-18: 100,084); B.2. Paid Circulation Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541. Average No. of Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 0 (Sep/Oct-18: 0); B.3. Paid Distribution Outside the Mails Including Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS. Average No. of Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 18,247 (Sep/Oct-18: 17,500); B.4. Paid Circulation by Other Classes of Mail Through the USPS. Average No. of Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 0 (Sep/Oct-18: 0); C. Total Paid Distribution. Average No. of Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 145,148 (Sep/Oct-18: 117,584); D.1. Free or Nominal Rate Outside-County Copies Included on PS Form 3541. Average No. of Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 1,560 (Sep/Oct-18: 151); D.2. Free or Nominal Rate In-County Copies Included on PS Form 3541. Average No. of Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 0 (Sep/ Oct-18: 0); D.3. Free or Nominal Rate Copies Mailed at Other Classes Through the USPS. Average No. of Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 0 (Sep/Oct-18: 0); D.4. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Outside the Mail. Average No. of Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 0 (Sep/Oct-18: 0); E. Total Free or Nominal Rate Distribution. Average No. of Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 1,560 (Sep/Oct-18: 151); F. Total Distribution. Average No. of Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 146,708 (Sep/Oct-18: 117,735); G. Copies Not Distributed. Average No. of Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 84,390 (Sep/Oct-18: 62,312); H. Total. Average No. of Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 231,098 (Sep/Oct-18: 180,047); I. Percent Paid. Average No. of Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 98.9% (Sep/Oct-18: 99.9%); 16. Electronic Copy Circulation: A. Paid Electronic Copies. Average No. of Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 7,945 (Sep/Oct-18: 9,300); B. Total Paid Print Copies + Paid Electronic Copies. Average No. of Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 153,093 (Sep/Oct-18: 126,884); C. Total Print Distribution + Paid Electronic Copies. Average No. of Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 154,653 (Sep/Oct-18: 127,035); D. Percent Paid (Both Print & Electronic Copies). Average No. of Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 99.0% (Sep/ Oct-18: 99.9%); I certify that 50% of all distributed copies (electronic and print) are paid above a nominal price. 17. Publication Statement of Ownership: January/February-2019; 18. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on this form may be subject to criminal sanctions (including fines and imprisonment) and/or civil sanctions (including civil penalties). David Mack, Vice President, Marketing of CPK Media LLC, October 1, 2018. Photo: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin

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19_0102_MSM_CS_MisoBroths.indd 31 11/27/18 2:06 PM Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine

K itchen C abinet [ BOOK REVIEWS] by C hristopher K imball

Nik Sharma: Ottolenghi Simple: from Uruguay, a place that gives great, too. Pickles were common Kefir Crème Fraîche A Cookbook Mattos the freedom to leave the 4,000 years ago in Mesopotamia. past behind. Trained by some of Romans pickled whole fried fish in By Yotam Ottolenghi the world’s best chefs (Judy Rogers hot vinegar. The range of pickled Yotam and Francis Mallmann, among foods extends from mushrooms in Ottolenghi has others), Mattos is a fan of “cucina Russia, locusts in Persia and herring done it again. povera,” cuisine born out of in Holland to bananas in the West The food is necessity. In “Estela,” named after Indies, lemons in North Africa simpler than his New York restaurant, Mattos and feta in Greece. In Japan, they that of his honors the notion of simplicity— quick-pickle chrysanthemums as other books, skillet-toasted­ pumpernickel a condiment. Who knew? though you topped with Brie and tomatoes, or still need a steak served with Brussels sprouts core Middle Eastern pantry for and a sauce of Taleggio and cream. Deep Run Roots many recipes, a small ask. He also gives high-value cooking By Vivian Howard (Za’atar, harissa and pomegranate tips: a few drops of fish sauce n his cookbook, “Season,” molasses are key players.) One provide umami flavor sans Vivian I food writer and photographer favorite is the cherry tomato sauce fishiness; blend different types of Howard’s Nik Sharma takes a novel that uses olive oil and almost a vinegar for complexity; char story is not approach to the cuisine of his cup of water to cook tomatoes for cucumbers or leeks to add sweet uncommon: Indian heritage. But it was an hour, reducing their flavor and bitter notes to a dish. Yes, New Yorker his background in microbiology and texture; even store-bought there are restaurant-­worthy dishes returns home that led him to discover a better tomatoes yield great results. here, but Mattos knows where he to her rural homemade crème fraîche. As with his other books, you comes from, a place where cucina roots, lives in Usually a mixture of heavy realize he thinks about cooking povera and the freedom to a shack and cream and buttermilk or sour differently: He roasts whole improvise go hand in hand. opens a restaurant in a town where cream, homemade crème vegetables, uses full-fat yogurt Main Street is a collection of fraîche stands at room for sauces and deploys spices shuttered storefronts. After a few temperature until it turns as game-changers, as in sumac- Pickles: A Global History years, the restaurant and town silky, thick and tangy. roasted strawberries. He can jazz become destinations. During an By Jan Davison Sharma experimented up almost anything with a drizzle interview with Howard, I realized with alternatives to buttermilk of herb-infused oil. Some recipes Pickles aren’t that this is no made-for-TV movie. and sour cream. When he are adventurous (beet, caraway and simple, or so one Growing up, Howard celebrated tried using kefir—a sour, goat cheese bread), while others are learns after Halloween at the Bethel Baptist slightly fizzy fermented dairy close to home (chopped salad). No consuming just a Church (the houses were too far product—he discovered its matter. Cooking with Ottolenghi is few pages of apart for trick-or-treat), where a unique bacterial strains gave always time well spent. “Pickles” by Jan cauldron of fish stew bubbled with the crème fraîche more tang Davison. There a scary mix of fish heads, spiny and an even silkier texture. are quick pickles, bones, speckled skin and hard- We replicated his results by Estela pickle pickles poached eggs. As Howard points stirring 1 tablespoon kefir and fermented pickles, not to out, Deep Run, North Carolina, By Ignacio Mattos into 1 cup heavy cream, then mention dry salting and dry is not a town; it’s a fire district. allowing the mixture to sit at Ignacio pickling with soybean paste or rice Over time, her big-city cooking room temperature for 48 to Mattos mold, ketchup, hot sauce—you get returned to its roots. It’s no surprise 72 hours. Once it was thick and is from the idea. The fundamentals are the cookbook offers to-­die-for creamy, it was ready for use. Uruguay, simple: When the pH drops below banana pudding, blueberry Sharma mixes the crème where 4.6, the acidic environment barbecue sauce, spoonbread and fraîche into chicken, potato there are “prevents the growth of food-­ pickled watermelon rind, but and egg salads, or spikes it 3 million spoiling microorganisms and there is also butterbean hummus with maple syrup and dollops people, eliminates certain food toxins and a country take on shakshuka it onto broiled fruit. Kefir 12 million cows and two World and pathogens.” In other words, (stewed-­tomato shirred eggs with crème fraîche keeps refriger- Cup trophies. He refers to Europe pickling preserves. And as with ham chips). Best of all, Howard ated for up to a week. ◆ as the “old continent.” It differs most cured foods, the results taste has a strong voice. ◆ Illustration: John Dykes John Illustration:

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19_0102_MSM_KitchenCabBooks.indd 32 11/27/18 2:39 PM 19_0102_MSM_ISBC_SpiceBlends.indd 1

Illustration: Kendyll Hillegas Five-Spice Powder Five-Spice by black pepper, paprika and dried chilies. Nutmeg, coriander, cumin, cumin, coriander, Nutmeg, chilies. dried and paprika pepper, black by anchored generally are versions All limes. dried emphasize variations Gulf Persian while allspice, with rich is blend Eastern Middle this Syria, In Baharat sugar. the balances warmth its where goods, baked and sweets to dimension adds also blend The dishes. these in flavor “browned” the boosts anise duck—star and beef pork, like meats roasted with good particularly is Five-spice mix. the into way their find also can cardamom and/or ginger ground pepper, Black cinnamon). Chinese called sometimes (or cassia, cinnamon and pepper Sichuan tongue-tingling cloves, fennel, anise, star of blend areddish-brown It’s roasting. and stir-fries braising, in used it’s where China, from is powder Five-spice complexity with a simple sprinkle. Many are associated are with particular Many regions, sprinkle. with asimple complexity While we opt for store-bought shichimi togarashi, Five-spice and za’atar, Five-spice and togarashi, shichimi store-bought for opt we While around the world, Spice blends act that tools as one-stroke culinary blends world, Spice add the around though the formula of ingredients can vary can widely within ingredients of though formula those the regions. Six Essential Spice Blends Spice Essential Six we like the freshness of homemade berbere, baharat and dukkah. baharat and berbere, homemade of freshness the like we cardamom, cinnamon and cloves are flatbread, stews and vegetables. vegetables. and stews flatbread, Za’atar common, too. Baharat pairs well with with well pairs Baharat too. common, oil and used as a seasoning for for aseasoning as used and oil pepper and kosher salt. kosher and pepper vegetables. and salmon meat, red It’s commonly mixed with olive olive with mixed commonly It’s the is za’atar East, Middle the In and ½ teaspoon each cayenne cayenne each ½teaspoon and Rub it onto protein or mix it into hot hot itinto mix or protein itonto Rub sumac, as well as dried herbs. herbs. dried as well as sumac, herb—reminiscent afresh of name cinnamon and ground cardamom, To make, drizzling. for butter or oil includes sesame seeds and and seeds sesame includes of thyme, marjoram and oregano— variable, the blend usually usually blend the variable, highly Though it. includes often that blend aspice as well as cumin, 1 tablespoon each ground ground each 1tablespoon cumin, 1½ tablespoons together stir coriander and toasted ground ground toasted and coriander ground pepper, black ground each

Dukkah for 1 to 2 minutes. Off heat, stir in ½ teaspoon kosher salt. kosher teaspoon in ½ stir heat, Off 2minutes. 1to for constantly, stirring cardamom, ground ¼teaspoon and pepper cayenne ½teaspoon ginger, ground and coriander ground each 1 teaspoon paprika, smoked 1tablespoon toast medium-low, over skillet asmall in To make, stews. and lentils for dusting afinal as or rub aspice itas Use way. along goes Alittle turmeric. and pepper black cloves, cardamom, allspice, often and onion), and garlic (ginger, aromatics dry or fresh salt, fenugreek, chilies, red contains It Ethiopia. of blend spice defining the is berbere brick-red, and hot Fiery processor with 1 teaspoon dried oregano oregano dried 1teaspoon with processor food in a pulse heat, Off 1 minute. for toast seeds; caraway 1 tablespoon and seeds cumin and coriander each 2tablespoons Add 2minutes. 1 to for toast seeds; sesame tablespoons 2 Add 4minutes. 3to for cashews ½cup toast medium, over askillet in To make, dipping. for oil olive with mix or salads, and stews soups, over Sprinkle meats. and vegetables roasted and eggs hard-cooked flatbread, on sprinkled it’s Egypt, In spices. crushed or whole and herbs nuts, with seeds coriander and cumin sesame, blends Dukkah Berbere and ½ teaspoon each kosher salt salt kosher each ½teaspoon and and black pepper until coarsely ground. coarsely until pepper black and Shichimi Togarashi Japanese shichimi togarashi is a mixture of chili flakes, flakes, chili of amixture is togarashi shichimi Japanese nori seaweed, ground ginger or garlic, dried citrus peel, peel, citrus dried garlic, or ginger ground seaweed, nori Sichuan pepper and sesame, poppy and/or hemp hemp and/or poppy sesame, and pepper Sichuan seeds. The spice blend, sold in small glass shaker shaker glass small in sold blend, spice The seeds. bottles, is standard in noodle shops as a seasoning a seasoning as shops noodle in standard is bottles, to be sprinkled over dishes to taste. Though not not Though taste. to dishes over sprinkled be to up finished dishes of all types. all of dishes up finished used as an ingredient, shichimi togarashi livens livens togarashi shichimi ingredient, an as used

11/27/18 2:19PM ◆ January–February 2019 Christopher Kimball’s MILK STREET Magazine The New Home Cooking ◆ Photo: Name TK

◆ “In every corner of Sicily, there are different delicious things to try.” —Vincenzo Ippolito, Castelbuono, Sicily ◆

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