WALKING ON JURA, AND WALKING ON JURA, ISLAY AND COLONSAY

23 WILD WALKS IN THE SOUTHERN About the Author by Peter Edwards Peter Edwards grew up in Sussex and nurtured a love of walking and moun- tain biking amid the ‘blunt, bow-headed, whale-backed’ hills of the South Downs. Peter is a fan of wild landscapes and remote places; he lives at Rhenigidale on the Isle of Harris with his wife, Fiona, and their Labradors, Dougal and Mara.

JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS, OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL www.cicerone.co.uk © Peter Edwards 2019 CONTENTS Third edition 2019 ISBN: 978 1 85284 979 5 Map key...... 6 Second edition 2014 Overview map...... 8 First edition 2010 INTRODUCTION ...... 11 Printed by KHL Printing, Singapore Jura...... 11 A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Islay...... 13 Colonsay ...... 13 © Crown copyright 2019 OS PU100012932 History...... 14 All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated. Geology...... 17 Wildlife ...... 18 Getting to the Southern Hebrides...... 22 Getting between the islands...... 25 Acknowledgements The routes...... 26 While walking in the Southern Hebrides, I have greatly enjoyed the company of Maps and route-finding ...... 27 Rich Baldwin, Jon Beck, James Boulter, Brett Collins, Andy and Jen Dodd, Garry Safety and emergencies ...... 28 Glover, Andy Godfrey and Giulia Hetherington, Chris Hallworth, Susan Kemp, What to take...... 29 Nina Mesner, Felicity Parsons, Anne-Marie and David Parsons, Alex Rintoul, Dan Using this guide...... 31 Twyman, Malcolm Walker, Steve Wilkinson and Dougal Mòr, Mara, Sol, Hooper, Nell and Reuben. Thanks to Dave Hoult, Konrad Borkowski and Dorota Jelinska, JURA...... 33 Craig Rozga at Ruantallain Estate, Andrew and Claire Fletcher at and to Walk 1 The ...... 45 Duncan Philips, skipper of the Farsain. Most of all I would like to thank the lovely Walk 2 Road End to Glengarrisdale...... 50 Fiona Rintoul who introduced me to these wonderful islands and who has been Walk 3 The west coast walk ...... 54 my companion on many fine walks since 2001. This book is dedicated to her. Day 1 Ardlussa or Kinuachdrachd to Glengarrisdale...... 62 Day 2 Glengarrisdale to Shian Bay ...... 67 Day 3 Shian Bay to Cruib Lodge...... 72 Updates to this Guide Day 4 Cruib Lodge to Glenbatrick Bay ...... 79 Day 5 Glenbatrick Bay to Ferry...... 84 While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as Day 5A Glenbatrick Bay to the A846 via Glen Batrick...... 90 they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Any updates Walk 4 North Jura coast and glens...... 93 that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone. Walk 5 Tarbert to Cruib Lodge bothy...... 97 co.uk/979/updates), so please check before planning your trip. We also advise Walk 6 Glengarrisdale to Cruib across Jura’s northern hills...... 100 that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and Walk 7 Ardlussa to Corpach Bay and Am Miadar ...... 108 shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grate- Walk 8 The ...... 113 ful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts Walk 9 Evans’ Walk to Glenbatrick Bay and return...... 118 on the ground, sent by email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, Walk 10 Glas Bheinn and Dubh Bheinn...... 121 Juniper House, Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal, LA9 7RL. Register your book: To sign up to receive free updates, special offers and ...... 125 GPX files where available, register your book atwww.cicerone.co.uk . Walk 11 Cruach Scarba...... 131

Front cover: An Cladach bothy on the (Walks 13 and 14) ISLAY...... 135 Walk 12 Rhuvaal and the north-west coast...... 150 Walk 13 An Cladach, McArthur’s Head and the Sound of Islay. . . . . 158 Mountain safety Walk 14 An Cladach–Beinn Bheigier circuit...... 163 Walk 15 Beinn na Caillich and Beinn Bheigier from Ardtalla...... 168 Every mountain walk has its dangers, and those described in this Walk 16 The Oa peninsula...... 172 guidebook are no exception. All who walk or climb in the mountains should Walk 17 Sanaigmore to Kilchiaran ...... 181 recognise this and take responsibility for themselves and their companions Walk 18 Ardnave Point...... 187 along the way. The author and publisher have made every eort to ensure that the information contained in this guide was correct when it went to press, but, COLONSAY...... 191 except for any liability that cannot be excluded by law, they cannot accept Walk 19 Around Oronsay...... 203 responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by any person Walk 20 South Colonsay coast ...... 207 using this book. Walk 21 Lower Kilchattan to Kiloran Bay ...... 212 Walk 22 North Colonsay coast...... 217 Walk 23 to Kiloran Bay along the Old Road...... 223 International distress signal (emergency only) Appendix A Route summary table...... 226 Six blasts on a whistle (and flashes with a torch after dark) spaced evenly for one Appendix B Walks on other islands...... 230 minute, followed by a minute’s pause. Repeat until an answer is received. The Appendix C Useful contacts...... 232 response is three signals per minute followed by a minute’s pause. Appendix D Glossary...... 233 Appendix E Further reading...... 234 Helicopter rescue The following signals are used to communicate with a helicopter: Route symbols on OS map extracts Help needed: Help not needed: route raiseHelp Helpboth requir rarmsequired: ed: raiseHelpHelp notone r notequirarm required: ed: aboveraise rboth aisehead botharms to arms raboveaise roneaise head, armone abarm extendov abe ov e alternative route formabo avab e‘Y’ headove head to to otherhead,head, arm extend downwardextend other other form forma ‘V’ a ‘V’ arm doarmwnw downward ard start/finish point

start point Emergency telephone numbers finish point To call out the Mountain Rescue, ring 999 or the European emergency number 112: this will connect you via any available network. Once you are connected alternative start/finish point to the emergency operator, ask for the police. alternative start point

alternative finish point Weather reports route direction The Mountain Weather Information Service (MWIS) provides forecasts for 's mountain areas: www.mwis.org.uk. Other useful websites include www.xcweather.co.uk and www.metoˆce.gov.uk.

for OS legend see printed OS maps Walking on Jura, Islay and Colonsay Overview map LynnLynn ISLEISLE OF OF of Lornof Lorn MULLMULL ObanOban A85A85 TyndrumTyndrumA85A85 ScridainScridain n n DalmallyDalmally IonaIona L L r r o o NN A849A849 L L f f CrianlarichCrianlarich o o LochearnheadLochearnhead FionnphortFionnphort rth rth Fi Fi L L LOCHLOCH LOMOND LOMOND & & AvichAvich A82 A82 A819 A819 THETHE TROSSACHS TROSSACHS 0 0 10mile10mile LochLoch

Loch AweLoch Awe KatrineKatrine CraobhCraobhA816 A816 CallanderCallander 0 0 20 km20 km HavenHaven Scarba,Scarba, Lunga Lunga & & InverarayInveraray A83 A83 A821A821 A815A815 TheThe GarvellachsSCARBASCARBA Loch Loch s s A81A81 2 hr 2 hrKinuachdrachdKinuachdrachd CrinanCrinan Lomond Lomond R ForthR Forth ScalasaigScalasaig Long Long HarbourHarbour GlengarrisdaleGlengarrisdale A83 A83 A811A811 ra ra ColonsayColonsay u u (summer) (summer) J J A817A817 ArdlussaArdlussaf f LochgilpheadLochgilphead A815 A815 M876M876 1 hr 1 hr o o LochLoch

A875 A875 d d TayvallichTayvallich A886 A886 n n JURAJURA HelensburghHelensburgh A809 A809 u u A814 A814 A81 A81 o o e e A811A811 n n S S y Kylesy Kyles KilsythKilsyth F F KnapdaleKnapdale of of DunoonDunoon A891A891

h h DumbartonA82DumbartonA82 c

JuraJuraA846 A846 c ButeBute A8 A8 A803A803

o o

PortPort e e A761 A761 L FeolinFeolin L A886A886CollintraiveCollintraive AskaigAskaig d Greenockd Greenock M80M80 y y FerryFerry TarbertTarbert l l M8 M8 C C

CraighouseCraighouse f f A8 A8 RothesayRothesay o o A78 A78 GlasgowGlasgow

KennacraigKennacraig h h A80A80 t t BowmoreBowmore 2 hour2 hour r r LargsLargs A844 A844 i i A760A760 PaisleyPaisley A847 A847 A846 A846 s s ISLAYISLAY F F ClaonaigClaonaig IslandIsland PortnahavenPortnahaven d d of Buteof Bute n n A726A726 LagganLaggan u u M77M77 East East PortPort o o LochranzaLochranza BayBay IsleIsle of of A737A736A737A736 EllenEllen s 20 mins s 20 mins S S StewartonStewartonKilbrideKilbride GighaGigha NorthNorth n n KilwinningKilwinning 2 hr 2 hr a a ArranArran ArdrossanArdrossan A735 A735 A83 A83 n n n n ISLEISLE a a A71A71 r r KilmarnockKilmarnock 55 mins55 mins b b OFOF l l i i BrodickBrodick IrvineIrvine ARRANARRAN A78A78 GalstonGalstonA71 A71 K K A77A77

8 9 Walking on Jura, Islay and Colonsay

INTRODUCTION

Tucked away off the pen- each possess a distinctive elemental insula, 80km (50 miles) or so west beauty all their own. of as the crow flies, the Southern Hebridean islands of Jura, Islay and Colonsay provide a sublime JURA setting for some of the finest and most The austere, rugged beauty of Jura’s challenging walking to be found in wild hinterlands can at times appear Scotland, or indeed anywhere in the positively intimidating. Vast tracts British Isles. For experienced walkers of treeless moorland and lochan- who love wild and expansive land- speckled bog rise up towards the scapes, these islands offer a wealth of island’s mountainous, scree-strewn superb walking. backbone, while there can be fewer There’s a real sense of remote- lonelier regions than Jura’s uninhab- ness to be found amid the scree-clad ited west coast. This empty expanse is mountains, lonely glens and peat-dark the territory of red deer and raptors, lochans of the islands’ wild hinter- and the island’s only settlements cling lands and their magnificent coastal to the narrow fertile strip along the landscapes where rugged sheltered east coast. cliffs frame pristine white sandy bays At 30 miles long and 9 miles with iridescent blue-green waters. As across at its widest point and with only if this wasn’t enough, the hills and around 200 inhabitants, Jura is one of shores abound with remarkable geo- the least populous areas of the British logical features and teem with wild- Isles, largely because of its lack of cul- life. When out walking you are as tivable land. However, after spending likely to encounter eagles, deer, wild time in Jura’s vast, uninhabited inte- goats, seals and otters as you are other rior, the island’s tiny main settlement, people. , can seem like a teeming Remarkably, Jura, Islay and metropolis with its hotel and bar, shop, Colonsay are still overlooked by the restaurant and whisky distillery. majority of walkers and other visitors The island’s terrain is largely path- magnetically attracted northwards by less, quite unforgiving and definitely the grandeur of the Highlands and the not for the unfit or faint-hearted; but . Though these islands lack for those who are up to the challenges the dramatic scale of Glen Coe, the of this exceptional environment, Jura Cairngorms or the Black Cuillin, they has some of the finest walking country

Cliffs10 at Meall Lamalum (Walk 21) 11 Walking on Jura, Islay and Colonsay Colonsay

ISLAY COLONSAY Islay is lower lying and more fertile Colonsay is a small but perfectly than its rugged neighbour. It is also formed gem of an island that distils more populous and has more roads much of the natural splendour of its as well as other physical infrastruc- neighbours into a relatively compact ture. Islay also has many kilometres area. Much more than a facsimile of of varied and beautiful coastline and, Jura and Islay in miniature, it is an unlike Jura, walks along some of the island with a very distinct character of island’s deserted shores and remote its own, epitomised by its innate tran- clifftops are accessible by road. Most quillity. The walks described here take of the walks described here are fairly in some remarkably varied terrain, demanding. They include the rugged from high cliffs to vast white sandy coastline and magnificent bays of bays, amid some of the most sublime the Atlantic coast, the dramatic cliffs coastal landscapes found anywhere in of the Oa peninsula and a spectacu- the British Isles. The Paps of Jura seen from Oronsay lar route along the Sound of Islay to From any point on Colonsay, Rhuvaal and the wild wild and beautiful landscapes are north-west coast. only a short walk away. A kilome- and most remarkable, geologically rich the island’s trio of distinctive quartz- Islay has an abundance of wildlife tre from the settlement of Lower landscapes to be found anywhere. ite peaks. The Paps may not be and is particularly famous for its spec- Kilchattan, vast colonies of seabirds A good level of fitness, resource- Munros – at 785m Beinn an Oir is tacular birdlife, including the huge nest on the vertiginous cliffs of the fulness and self-reliance is required a Corbett – but a round of all three numbers of migratory geese that arrive west coast. Walks around the south to tackle most of the walks included mountains involves some 1500m of each October. The landscape is awash coast, or around Colonsay’s - here, not least the three-to-five-day ascent and is a hillwalking classic. with history; the coastline is ringed separated sister island of Oronsay, backpacking route along the west A detailed route description helps with Iron Age hill forts and garlanded take in some wonderful beaches and coast of Jura, which is the centrepiece walkers make the best of a tough with infamous shipwrecks, while the dune-fringed shoreline, with fine of this book. This is arguably one of day on testing terrain. A couple of hinterland is dotted with the remains views of Jura and Islay across the the finest wilderness backpacking out-and-back routes visit the north- of settlements, both ancient and more of Lorn. A walk around the rug- routes in Scotland: it is a demanding west coast with options for camp- recent – including the medieval seat ged north of the island is more of a and challenging route that should not ing or bothying, while a demanding of the Lords of the Isles at . challenge, but it visits beautiful land- be undertaken lightly, but there are circular route takes in some of the Islay also offers the tired walker scapes full of interest, including the plentiful compensations in the mag- highlights of the north-west, again all the comforts of civilisation in a superlative sandy bays of Kiloran and nificent landscapes, incredible geo- with the option to overnight. The beautiful setting. There are many good Balnahard. Somewhat surprisingly, logical features and abundant wild- traverse of Jura’s northern hills from places to eat, including some excel- given Colonsay’s size, few other peo- life. Furthermore, there are few places Glengarrisdale to Cruib is a less-well- lent pubs; a range of great places to ple are encountered once the island’s in the British Isles where the sense of trodden minor epic – a rollercoaster stay, including two beautifully situ- few kilometres of road are left remoteness from everyday life can be route over unremittingly rough ter- ated campsites and an excellent youth behind. The island’s compact nature felt so keenly. rain. Several other day walks provide hostel; and for those in need of mus- also means walks can be adapted to Among the other walks on Jura challenging routes, although on a cle-relaxant there are nine fabulous almost any length. included in this book is a round of slightly less heroic scale. whisky distilleries.

12 13 Walking on Jura, Islay and Colonsay History

HISTORY as 8000bc, following the retreat of millennium bc and hunter-gatherers the ice cap at the end of the last gla- began settling in agriculture-based Prehistory cial period. However, harsh winters communities, the fertile land of Islay All traces of Palaeolithic (Old Stone probably limited settlement during attracted these early farmers: there Age) settlement in Scotland were this period to seasonal exploitation is widespread evidence of Neolithic obliterated by the ice sheets during of the island’s natural resources. The (4000–2000bc) occupation through- the Quaternary glaciation. However, earliest settlers arrived on Colonsay out the island, including cham- the late John Mercer, a palaeontolo- and Oronsay around 7000bc. The bered burial cairns and settlement gist who lived on the island between artefacts and animal remains recov- sites. Stone axes found at Balnahard the 1960s and 1980s, cast a great ered from excavations at several on Colonsay and flint arrowheads deal of light on the subsequent pre- sites on Oronsay and at Staosnaig recovered on Oronsay are evidence history of Jura. Mercer’s archaeo- on Colonsay have provided much of inhabitation during the period. logical investigations unearthed evi- information about the early settlers’ The sole identified Neolithic site on dence of Mesolithic settlement from way of life, and radiocarbon dating Jura is the chambered cairn at Poll a’ around 7000bc, with hunter-gather- has established a timescale for early Cheo. ers in seasonal occupation as early settlement. Evidence of Bronze Age (c2500– as 10,500bc on the fringes of the There are no recorded traces 600bc) settlement is more plentiful Tobar Oran, an early Christian statue retreating ice sheet. Finds of tools, of Neolithic settlement on Jura, and includes a number of cairn and now in the grounds of Colonsay House shell middens and structural remains Colonsay and Oronsay, whereas set- cist burial sites, cup-marked rocks, (Walks 20, 21 and 22) dating from the Mesolithic period tlement sites and burial cairns have standing stones and hut circles on show that Islay was first occupied by been found on Islay and Mull. As the Jura, and hut circles, field systems, took possession of Islay and Jura. nomadic hunter-gatherers as early climate improved around the sixth burial cairns, cists and standing His descendants came to be known stones on Colonsay and Oronsay. as Cenél nÓengusa and were one of Forts and duns (smaller fortified three kin groups that formed the king- structures) on Jura and Islay may date dom of Dál Riata in what is present- from the Iron Age (c600bc–ad400). day . In ad563 St and his fol- Dál Riata and the arrival of lowers arrived in the Christianity from . Columba is said to have From the early part of the third cen- landed on Oronsay before voyag- tury an Irish tribe – Scotti of Dál Riata, ing on to where he established led by Cairbre Riata – began the colo- what would become the important nisation of the Kintyre peninsula and ecclesiastical centre of Iona Abbey. the Inner Hebrides, including Jura, The Celtic Christian missionaries set Islay, Colonsay and Oronsay. Cairbre about converting the populations Riata’s descendants, Fergus, Loarn of the islands and the mainland. St and Angus, continued the process Columba’s uncle, St , has been of conquering and colonising, and linked to Jura, which is thought to be the decisive invasion of Argyll took the location of the lost Christian com- place late in the fifth century. Angus munity of .

14 Scalasaig Harbour (Walk 23) 15 Walking on Jura, Islay and Colonsay especially important to check with the those staying at bothies to ensure they estates before wild camping during are left in good order for the next users. WALK 1 the deer stalking season – between 1 The Gulf of Corryvreckan July and 15 February. Along the north-west coast there FOOD AND DRINK are also three bothies: Glengarrisdale As well as the Jura Hotel, the Antlers bothy on the Ardlussa estate is an old Bistro and Restaurant can be found Start/finish Parking area in disused quarry at Road End: NR 669 927 crofting cottage now maintained by in Craighouse, situated opposite the Distance 21.5km (13½ miles) return the Mountain Bothies Association shop and village hall. The Antlers also Ascent 625m (2050ft) (MBA). Permission should always be has a visitor centre. Located in the Time 5–6hr return Terrain The walk in from Road End follows a metalled track road. sought from the owner before visiting heart of Craighouse, the Jura Stores is From Kinuachdrachd there is a trodden path for most of the bothy; Ardlussa Estate, 01496 820 now community owned and stocks a the way; the going underfoot is often boggy with close 323. The bothy is not available dur- range of goods. Advanced orders are heather cover and high bracken in summer ing stag stalking: mid-August to mid- taken on 01496 820231 or manager@ Map OS Explorer 355 October. In 2012 the MBA took over juracommunitystore.co.uk. If you Access From Ardlussa follow the road through the collection the maintenance of the estate bothy need food and fuel for several days’ of estate buildings, pass Ardlussa House and continue at Cruib Lodge on the north shore walking on the west coast route, you’ll winding your way north-eastwards along the track road of Loch Tarbert, and there is also an probably need to bring some of your with a few minor ups and downs. You will reach the estate bothy at Ruantallain, which has own supplies. The Isle of Jura distill- parking area at Road End after 5.5km. a room available for walkers; both are ery in Craighouse has a shop and runs Note It is possible, although not recommended, to walk on the Ruantallain Estate. During the twice-daily distillery tours from March in from Ardlussa (NR 650 880), where the Jura bus deer stalking season inform the head to October and by appointment dur- terminates, but this adds 11km (7 miles) to the round trip, keeper, Craig Rozga, of your plans: ing the winter, tel 01496 820385 making it a very long out-and-return walk. The metalled 01496 820287. It is incumbent on www.isleofjura.com. track is very firm, which makes cycling (best with a mountain bike) as far as Kinuachdrachd viable – make sure bikes are left off the track.

For many people the primary purpose of walking out to the Gulf of Corryvreckan is to get a look at the infamous . In order to catch it during a ‘spin cycle’ it is best to time a visit to coincide with a flood tide, preferably backed by a westerly wind – check tide tables at the Jura Hotel. A submerged basalt pillar at the western end of the narrow strait catalyses fast- flowing tidal waters into a whirlpool of considerable power, second only to Norway’s Maelstrom in the northern hemisphere. However, this is a fine walk in its own right, and the Gulf of Corryvreckan is bonny enough, even without its exuberant water feature. En route there are grand views across north Jura’s vast, empty hinterland and the , and the views

Seal44 Cottage on the isle of Oronsay 45 Walking on Jura, Islay and Colonsay Walk 1 – The Gulf of Corryvreckan

is boggy in places, climbs through heather and bracken To the north, the across Corryvreckan to the isle of Scarba are magnificent. Although neither before levelling out and passing through a deer fence by mountainous isle an excessively long nor difficult walk, tramping back and forth along the means of a stile and a gate.4 of Scarba looms metalled track between Road End and Kinuachdrachd can be tiring. beyond the Gulf White-tailed eagles can be seen in this area. They of Corryvreckan. From the parking area at Road End continue along the are easily identifiable by their size (they boast a track, which climbs steadily at first. After 6km the isolated wing-span of up to 3m) and characteristic white house at Barnhill comes into view. tail feathers.

Few people will need reminding that this is where After 2km the path passes through George Orwell lived while he wrote Nineteen another deer fence then drops a little, Eighty-Four in the years before his death from tuber- crossing a small gully and stream (NM culosis, in January 1950. It’s remarkable that in 701 007). Here the path splits, but either such an expansive and sparsely populated environ- route leads to an obvious vantage point ment, Orwell conjured the claustrophobic dystopia on Creag an t-Seoil on the northern flank of Airstrip One and the malign, omnipresent gaze of An Cruachan, with superlative of Big Brother. views of Scarba and the Gulf of Corryvreckan – the nar- Continue on your way and a further 1km will bring row strait between the two you to the small bay and stone pier at Kinuachdrachd islands and the often tur- Harbour (NR 705 982). Continue northwards, following bulent confluence of the the track that skirts the small bay, before climbing a lit- and the The house at Barnhill tle to Kinuachdrachd where sits a lone farmhouse. Just Sound of Jura. where George Orwell before the farmhouse take the footpath that climbs to wrote Nineteen the left (NR 704 987). A small wooden sign indicates the Eighty-Four route to Corryvreckan, 3km to the north. The path, which

Map continues on page 49

46 47 CorryvreckanWalking on whirlpoolJura, Islay at andrest Colonsay Walk 1 – The Gulf of Corryvreckan

CORRYVRECKAN The tidal convergence of conflicting currents is catalysed by a submerged pyramidal rock, known as the Caillich (the hag), which generates the infa- mous whirlpool and standing waves of up to 9m. According to Norse legend, the Gulf of Corryvreckan (Breacan’s Cauldron) takes its name from the son of a King of Norway who drowned here while attempting to win the love of a local woman by performing a feat of derring-do. Breacan anchored his boat in the strait for three days and nights using three ropes – the first of wool, the second of hemp and the third of a virgin’s hair. The ropes broke in turn and the boat was dragged into the whirlpool. Breacan’s dog dragged his lifeless body ashore, and he was bur- ied in a cave on the west coast. In August 1947 when returning from a camping trip on the west coast with his three-year-old son Richard, his sister Avril, his two nephews and his niece, George Orwell steered his small boat into the gulf and rapidly got into difficulties. The violent tumult of water wrenched off the boat’s out- board motor, and disaster was narrowly forestalled when the party managed to scramble to safety on a small island after the boat capsized. Several hours later, they were rescued by a passing fishing boat.

To return to Road End, retrace your outward route.

48 49