Buying Guide

Vineyards north of Hammondsport on the west side of Lake Keuka, . Special Advance Release reviewed for the October 2010 issue,

CEPHAS in home August 19 /

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New York UPSTATE, WHERE RULES ew York’s have long her first round of tastings for Enthusiast. been one of the world’s most promis- Expect more of her reviews, covering other parts ing growing regions for Riesling. of the United States and venturing into some N “Most promising,” because frankly European outposts, in upcoming issues. many of the wines haven’t lived up For red wine lovers, this month’s Buying Guide to global expectations for what seems such an obvi- also features some great Cabernet reviews com- Ghost Block 2007 Single ous Riesling terroir. A cool, water-moderated cli- ing out of California. The 2007 vintage yielded (Yountville); mate and hillside made Riesling seem a some stunners, including noteworthy efforts from 95 $100. A terrific Cabernet you want to cellar for a given. But for many years, the focus was on any- such stalwarts as Mondavi and Chappellet, but also good 5–6 years, at the very least, and could go far thing but Riesling— had a run, as did from newer wineries, like Ghost Block. California- longer. Shows what Yountville can do in a good ; has some proponents. based Contributing Editor Steve Heimoff was also year. The wine is very dry and more minerally than Finally, our latest tastings suggest that the region impressed by the quartet of single-vineyard further north, yet is extraordinarily rich in black- as a whole is beginning to fulfill its vinous destiny from Novy Cellars. berries, chocolate-covered cherries and cassis, with as a producer of standout Riesling. Imports in this month’s collection include some a perfumed scent of violets. The mouthfeel is all The Finger Lakes have always had their share of great Grüner Veltliners from Austria, a bevy of velvet and satin—so pretty and refined. Cellar good Riesling producers—Wiemer, Frank, Heron Brunellos di Montalcino from the great 2004 and Selection. Hill, to name a few—but now there are dozens of 2005 vintages and additional selections from names to know, not just a handful. The original France, Spain and Australia. Finally, remember Robert Mon- pioneers have been joined by a host of newer ven- that you can access our collection of almost 90,000 davi 2007 tures, and the oldtimers have raised their games. wine reviews (plus Spirits and Beers) via our Web 95 Reserve Cabernet In this issue, Tasting Coordinator Anna Lee Iijima site: buyingguide.winemag.com. Cheers! Sauvignon (Napa spotlights some of the noteworthy from —JOE CZERWINSKI Valley); $135. Bone dry and utterly balanced, of slate and lime, tart acidity and a pleasantly with deeply powerful, RIESLING long finish. Lovely all around. —A.I. long-lasting flavors of blackberries and black Belhurst 2009 Dry Riesling (Fin- Belhurst 2009 Semi-Dry Riesling currants and an intense, but integrated, coating of 89 ger Lakes); $19. There’s lots of zing 88 (Finger Lakes); $18. This aromatic smoky oak. But it’s also very tannic. Nothing soft in this lush, fresh wine with ripe pineapple, semisweet Riesling is a bouquet of jasmine blos- about this wine. As fine a cellar candidate as any melon and peach aromas. Tart tangerine notes soms and luscious pears laced with lime and Mondavi Reserve in years. Should develop for 12, meld gorgeously with a bitter lime peel finish, musk. Sweet honeycrisp apples and powdered 15, even 20 years. Cellar Selection. giving added complexity to this intensely con- sugar on the palate meld with a tang of acidity centrated although not quite “dry” Riesling. and a long, mouthwatering finish. —A.I. —A.I. Dr. Konstantin Frank 2008 Semi Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2008 88 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes); $15. 89 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes); $15. There’s a whiff of summer—ripe yellow peaches This beautiful Riesling from Chateau Lafayette caramelizing on the grill—trapped between the Reneau opens with a delicate prickle of acidity many layers of this honeyed, off-dry Riesling. that’s wonderfully enticing on the tongue. Lush The palate is polished with an undertone of wet with aromas of ripe yellow peaches and nec- stones and notes of freesia and grapefruit zest. tarines, it’s balanced artfully with a sharp, miner- Brisk acidity and a long, minerally finish round Trinchero 2007 Cloud’s Nest Vine- ally edge and bright lemony acidity. Finishes out this cheerful yet focused wine. —A.I. 95 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount quite dry. —A.I. Veeder); $50. A lovely Cabernet, brimming with Lamoreaux Landing 2009 Round complex blackberry, cherry, mineral, tobacco and Swedish Hill 2009 Dry Riesling 88 Rock Vineyard Riesling (Finger cedar flavors that impress for their sheer power. 89 (Finger Lakes); $16. Crisp and Lakes); $20. There’s a hint of smoke through- Shows the firm, hard tannins this mountain always refreshing with notes of grated ginger, white out the nose and palate that adds a layer of com- lends Cabs, but they’re so finely ground, the wine flowers and cantaloupe. This dry Riesling bal- plexity to this sweet, pretty Riesling. Aromas of is drinkable now with a good decanting. Should ances peachy fruit flavors with a steely backbone age well for a decade. Editors’ Choice. Continued on page 84

76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 Zaca Mesa 2007 (Santa Baxter 2007 Oppenlander Vine- 95 Ynez Valley); $32. This spectacular Chappellet 2007 Signature Caber- 93 yard Pinot Noir (Mendocino); $60. 100% Grenache is a huge success. It’s so deli- 94 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $42. A fresh, vibrant but tight young Pinot Noir. It’s cious, you can hardly stop drinking it. Just oozes This is the winery’s basic Cabernet, but there’s rich in wild raspberry, cherry and cola flavors, in raspberry and red cherry purée and nothing common about it. It’s dry and complex enhanced with spicy oak, and firm in acidity and caramelized, smoky oak richness, yet is thor- and moderately ageworthy, a hillside Cabernet tannins. Should be cellared for a good 3–5 years. oughly dry. An amazing, unforgettable wine that that revels in its plush, firm tannins and ripe fruit. Cellar Selection. establishes a new benchmark for California There’s a minerality that seems to come from the Grenache from this winery that was an early pio- soil, with expressive blackberry, currant, choco- Castello Banfi neer in Rhône varieties. Editors’ Choice. late and anise flavors. Really fine now after a 93 2005 Poggio decant, and should develop through this decade. alle Mura (Brunello di Astrales 2007 Montalcino); $85. 94 Tempranillo Castello Banfi’s cru expres- (Ribera del Duero); sion of Brunello, Poggio $67. Shows almost all alle Mura, is a dark and that’s great about the delicious Brunello with a region: dark, smoky, floral vertical aromatic delivery berry and chocolate aro- of blackberry, currants, plums, cola, mesquite and mas followed by juicy, spice. Sweet oak flavors of vanilla spread over the acid-driven boysenberry, palate and the wine has impressive consistency spice, bitter chocolate and and persistency. Imported by Banfi Vintners. peppery flavors. An excellent effort for a tough Pago de los Capellanes 2006 vintage, with dynamite power and a poise. Drink 94 Reserva (Ribera del Duero); $54. 2012–2018. Imported by Grapes of Spain. Sensational RDD Reserva with dry, smoky, ele- gant aromas and then a super-juicy, fresh, finely etched palate with composed cola, cherry, rasp- berry and more. This wine exhibits merit after merit; it’s complex yet easy to like. Really excel- lent for the money. Drink 2011–2018. Imported by Antalva Imports.

Dutcher Crossing 2008 Bernier- 93 Sibary Vineyard (Dry Baxter 2007 Run Dog Vineyard Creek Valley); $39. Quite a beautiful Zinfan- 94 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley); $45. del. It takes Dry Creek’s briary fruit and lifts it, An exotic Pinot of a type usually limited to although the wine retains a peppery, brambly Anderson Valley. It’s marked as much by gamy, character. Blended with Petite Sirah, Carignane mushroom and forest floor notes as by raspber- and Mataro (Mourvèdre), it’s rich in wild rasp- ries, cherries and red currants, with notes of Stonestreet 2008 Lower Rim berry, cherry, sweet cured tobacco, anise and san- licorice and pepper. Drily crisp and elegantly 94 Chardonnay (Alexander Valley); dalwood flavors, with a squeeze of orange constructed, this complex young wine should $55. Ultrarich, an oily, unctuous wine offering essence. develop for 4–6 years. tiers of pineapples, pears, limes and mangoes, enriched with sweet, smoky oak. Made in the superripe California style, yet always retains a crisp, dry elegance.

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Val Sotillo 2004 93 Reserva (Ribera del Duero); $60. Wonder- ful on the bouquet, where earthy notes blend perfectly with alert, bright fruit aro- mas. This is a sizable, full- bodied wine with leather, lively fruit character and a Oakville Winery 2007 Estate dose of rich chocolate. It’s in excellent shape and Ghost Block 2007 Estate Cabernet 93 Grown & Produced Cabernet shows impressive balance and depth. Delicious 93 Sauvignon (Oakville); $60. A beau- Sauvignon (Oakville); $46. Very ripe and to the core, with heft and noticeable oak that tiful Cabernet. Dark, dry and elegantly struc- extracted, almost jammy, with primary fruit fla- should lessen if given more time. Drink tured, it has classic Napa tannins and is nicely vors of blackberries, black cherries, red plums, now–2019. Imported by Tradewinds Specialty trimmed in acidity. The flavors are complex and currants, dark chocolate and spices. Delicious Imports. delicious, suggesting ripe blackberries, black cur- and noble, but kind of immature. Give it 4–6 rants and cedar. Drink now–2015. years to soften and integrate, and it could develop even longer. Cellar Selection. Lancaster 2009 93 Samantha’s Estate (Alexander Valley); $24. A worthy white wine to stand beside the winery’s estate red. Made from a single vineyard, it’s absolutely dry and bril- liantly crisp in acidity, with Argiano 2005 Brunello di Montal- subtle, complex flavors of 92 cino; $51. From one of the most beau- white peach, citrus fruits, minerals and white Shafer 2008 Red Shoulder Ranch tiful and historic estates in Montalcino, Argiano’s flowers. A touch of oak adds the perfect note of 93 Chardonnay (Carneros); $48. After Brunello is redolent of cherry, cassis, exotic spice, toast. Very fancy and upscale. Editors’ Choice. many years of cult stardom, Shafer’s Red Shoul- smoke and very tame, delicate oak notes of der Ranch still rules. It performs the difficult feat toasted vanilla. The wine is bright and polished of combining powerful richness with dry ele- with firm tannins and some sour cherry nuances gance. The pineapple, Meyer lemon and kaffir on the close. Imported by Vias Imports. lime flavors are undergirded with a steely miner- alty, while oak and lees add rich tiers of interest. The 2008 is tarter than usual, making it a good foil against lobster risotto or grilled salmon with a tropical fruit salsa topping.

Magistrate 2007 Limited Produc- 93 tion Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley); $25. Great Zinfandel, showing Dry Creek Valley at its best. The wine is dry and super-spicy, with C. Beck 2007 Petite Sirah (Napa complex, succulent wild berry, currant, licorice, 92 Valley); $38. A very good, even noble bacon and pepper flavors, and just a touch of Petite Sirah whose classic structure expresses the superripe raisins on the finish. Really notable for variety’s personality in an elegant way. Tannic and the quality of its fine tannins. Editors’ Choice. Trinchero 2007 Haystack Vineyard dry, it’s a big, fruity wine, with notes of blackber- 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Atlas Peak); ries, coffee, dark chocolate and tar. Now–2013. $50. A wonderful Cabernet, rich and dry. The alcohol is fairly high, but in keeping with the wine’s power. The fruity blackberry and currant flavors are balanced by refreshingly earthy notes of olives and sweet herbs. Should develop through 2013.

78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 Side Job 2008 C5 91 Stefani Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Val- ley); $25. This very dry wine shows the spicy, briary flavors of Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel. The flavors are of wild black and red berries, currants, bram- bly nettles, pepper, Chinese 5 Dierberg 2007 Chardonnay (Santa Trinchero 2007 Chicken Ranch spice, espresso and a hint of 92 Maria Valley); $32. A lovely Chardon- 92 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon earthy dark chocolate. Quite a fine, complex nay, bone dry and rich, that shows how well this (Rutherford); $35. A seriously good wine. drink that wants smoky, charred meats, like bar- cool Santa Barbara valley can develop the variety. Shows classic elegance in the dryness, fine tan- becued ribs, pork, or a rich grilled steak. With crisp acidity and a tang of minerals, the nins and restrained flavors of blackberries, black wine is citrusy and floral, with opulent notes from currants and cedar. Feels really refined in the oak barrels and creamy lees. mouth, with an herbaceousness that both grounds it and balances the fruit. Now–2013.

Trinchero 2007 Chicken Ranch 91 Vineyard (Rutherford); $35. Dry and tannic, a Merlot that’s the opposite Star Lane Vineyard 2006 Cabernet Trinchero 2007 Vista Montone of softly luxurious. But it’s extremely elegant with 92 Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley); 92 Vineyard Daybreak Block Merlot its cherry, red currant and bitter cherryskin fla- $42. Quite a sophisticated Cab, and one that (Napa Valley); $35. A lovely Merlot, dry and vors, and shows true complexity throughout. Just shows the promise of Happy Canyon, which oaky and earthy, with a rich vein of cherries, vio- cries out for a fine steak, in a brown butter, soft became an appellation this year. The wine is lets, red licorice and spicy bacon. Defines ele- cheese and garlic sauce. much drier and leaner than anything in Napa, gance, with a gentle scour of tannins. One of the but quite elegant and intense in blackberries, drier, classier out there. Great with a black currants and dried herbs. It’s a worthy suc- juicy steak. cessor to the very fine 2005. The alcohol is 15.1%.

Trinchero 2007 (Napa 91 Valley); $50. Tough and gritty in tan- nins, with a mouthfeel like you’re chewing on Fuligni 2005 Brunello di Montal- sandpaper. Yet this blend is very rich in The Old Faithful 2005 Northern 91 cino; $75. Here’s an austere and fruit, with a solid core of blackberries, black cur- 92 Exposure Grenache (McLaren sophisticated Brunello with a slightly brownish rants, anise and violets, sweetened with toast oak. Vale); $38. Starts off with intriguing aromas of hue to its garnet color and aged aromas of dried Decant this classy Bordeaux Blend for a few coffee, clove and plum that segue into dark, currants and forest berries, spice, mesquite, soy hours before serving. warming flavors. It’s full bodied, lush and almost sauce and licorice. The wine is exceedingly silky creamy in texture, with supple tannins that only and drying in the mouth. Imported by Empson hint at their presence before fading into a long, (USA) Ltd. licorice-tinged finish. Best now–2013. Imported by USA Wine West. Editors’ Choice.

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Mauritson 2009 Sauvignon Blanc 90 (Dry Creek Valley); $17. Mauritson Windsor Sonoma 2008 Chardon- has been building up a pretty good track record 91 nay (Russian River Valley); $20. with their unoaked Sauvignon Blanc. This ’09 This is a firm, dry, minerally Chardonnay. It’s not Dierberg 2008 Steel Chardonnay shows the balance of the vintage, with excellent blockbuster rich, but it is clean and vibrant and 90 (Santa Maria Valley); $32. Made acidity, modest alcohol and complex fla- elegant. The flinty flavors are enriched with notes without any oak influences, this wine shows the vors that range from citrus fruits and apples to of pineapples and green apples, while oak and splendors of great Santa Maria Chardonnay. It’s spices and gooseberries. It’s unusually good for lees give hints of buttered toast and sour cream. marked by complex flavors of Meyer lemons, the price. Editors’ Choice. A very fine, food-friendly wine that sommeliers pineapples, orange zest and honeysuckle, and should be aware of. Editors’ Choice. is beautifully bright in crisp acidity. Nice with fresh crab.

Miraflores 2007 Méthode Anci- 90 enne (El Dorado); $25. This Cobblestone 2005 Cobblestone is a wonderfully soft, complex Syrah. Completely 90 Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- Dry Creek Vineyard 2009 Sauvi- dry, it offers waves of raspberries, red currants, gnon (Napa Valley); $69. Clearly well-orig- 90 gnon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley); mocha, licorice, sandalwood and dusty Indian ined, to judge from the fine structure and $16. Dry, dry, dry is the name of the game with spices that linger on through a long finish. A very essential purity. But it’s a very tannic, closed wine, this Sauvignon Blanc. It’s rich in Meyer lemon, fine, medium- to full-bodied red wine for drink- with a mouth-numbing astringency that accentu- kaffir lime and pineapple flavors, with intense, ing now. ates the acidity. Even so, it’s so ripe in blackber- zesty acidity for clean balance, and the finish is ries and currants it’s almost drinkable now, with a spicy and stimulating. A beautiful cocktail wine to good decant. But you’re best off cellaring a good get a fancy dinner started. Editors’ Choice. Perry Creek 2007 4–6 years. Cellar Selection. 90 Altitude 2401 Dark Forest Syrah (El Dorado); $28. A distinctive Syrah that Col d’Orcia 2005 shows great concentration in the 90 Brunello di Mon- focused blackberry, sweet talcino; $55. An improve- leather, dark chocolate, mineral ment over past vintages, and black pepper flavors. Beyond thanks to the elegance of its the power, the wine is bone dry, fruit and the richness of its soft in acidity and quite tannic. consistency. The wine is The end result is impressive, and bursting with cherry and cas- ready to drink now. sis flavors and it shows har- MacRostie 2008 Chardonnay mony and a firm, streamlined nature to its 90 (Sonoma Coast); $25. A very good, mouthfeel. Imported by Palm Bay International. useful Chardonnay that’s easy to drink, yet also quite complex. Brisk and crisp in acidity, it shows citrus mineral, green apple and floral notes, touched with smoky oak.

80 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 Kirkland Signa- 89 ture 2007 Signa- ture Series Mountain Cuvee Cabernet Sauvi- gnon (Napa Valley); $18. Great price for this rich wine. It shows the den- sity and concentration of Rocland Estate 2008 Grenache mountain fruit, and also the Viñas del Vero 2007 La Miranda 90 (Barossa Valley); $21. Superripe tannins, with bone-dry fla- 88 de Secastilla Garnacha (Somon- fruit, befitting a hot year, suggests early consump- vors of blackberries and currants as well as hints tano); $15. Sweet and full of raspberry aromas, tion may be the best option for this supple, lus- of licorice and Canadian bacon. Good now with a foresty scents and sandalwood. Overall it’s a well- cious wine. There’s bits of spicy, leathery few hours of decanting, and should develop in made, intriguing Grenache with a fleshy, sturdy complexity to go with the intense black cherry the bottle through 2013 or so. Editors’ Choice. body and deep cherry, berry and chocolate fla- fruit. Drink now–2013. Imported by Rocland vors. It’s a bit tannic, but that only helps the Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. structure. Finishes nicely, with dry spice and vanilla notes. Imported by San Francisco Wine Exchange.

Magistrate 2006 Limited Produc- 89 tion Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexan- Trinchero 2007 Central Park West der Valley); $29. A little extra time in the 90 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (St. bottle has yielded a softly attractive Cabernet Helena); $35. Nice and dry, with firm, hard filled with lush flavors. It has complex tiers of Kenwood 2009 Sauvignon Blanc tannins and rich flavors of blackberries, cherries raspberries, cherries and tobacco, with gentle 87 (Sonoma County); $13. Made in a and dark chocolate. The oak is pretty strong, tannins and a light, spicy touch of sandalwood. wonderfully dry, crisp style, Sauvignon Blancs offering a coating of caramel. Shows a full-bod- Pretty and polished now. like this fill a much-needed niche in fruit-heavy ied, masculine Cabernet character that needs a California. It’s zesty and minerally, with lemon, good decant to aerate the tannins. Should age lime and grapefruit flavors. Beautiful as a cocktail though 2013, at least. Perry Creek 2007 sipper, or with the perfect roast chicken. 88 Zinman Zinfandel (El Dorado); $14. A lovely Zinfandel, soft and dry, with Kirkland Signa- luscious cherry, raspberry and 87 ture 2007 Signa- sandalwood flavors, dusted ture Series Cabernet with pepper and cocoa. Easy to Sauvignon (Stags Leap drink and versatile with every- District); $19. Softly lush, thing from pizza to a grilled a nice, fruit-forward Caber- steak. Editors’ Choice. net to drink now. Shows well-ripened blackberry and Z’IVO 2006 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity black currant flavors, fin- 90 Hills); $35. This is estate-grown, a mix ished with a touch of smoky of five Pinot Noir clones, from an excellent vin- oak. Good price for a Stags Leap Cab. tage. Perfumed and showing floral and berry accents, the wine hits the palate like a soft, wet kiss. Light and gentle, yet penetrating and seduc- tive, the tannins have been nicely managed and keep the wine, as the winery notes, “disturbingly quaffable.”

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BESTBUYS

Pagos del Rey 2007 El Circulo Cri- 87 anza (Rioja); $14. Sort of scratchy and Poggio Lungo 2007 Morellino di generic on the nose, with reasonably fresh red 84 Scansano; $22. Good growing condi- fruit aromas. The mouthfeel is angular and tions in 2007 helped shape this bright, berry- clipped by piercing acidity, while the flavors are driven wine from southern Tuscany. You’ll Dry Creek Vineyard 2009 Fumé of nice but regular black cherry and plum. Fairly recognize aromas of cherry, blueberry and min- 89 Blanc (Sonoma County); $12. This juicy and fresh as a whole. Imported by Luneau eral backed by a firm texture and sour cherry fla- is a delicious, balanced Sauvignon Blanc that’s the USA Inc. vors. This is a simple, easy-drinking expression. equal of many wines costing much more, which Imported by R&R Wine Imports Inc. makes it a great value. It features lemon and lime flavors made richer by notes of pineapples and honeysuckle. Entirely unoaked, it’s a great cock- BESTBUYS tail sipper.

Side Job 2008 90 Zinfandel (Sonoma County); $15. Korbel 2008 Brut Made With One sip is all it takes to love 86 Organically Grown Grapes (Cali- this wine, if you’re a Zinfan- fornia); $16. This is a nice, dry , del fan. It’s bone dry, silky in rich in citrus, apple, yeasty brioche and spice fla- texture and spicy, with Bodegas Franco-Españolas 2006 vors. The bubbles are a little ragged, giving it a brambly, briary flavors of 88 Rioja Bordón Crianza Tempranillo scoury mouthfeel. But for the price, it’s a fine wild forest berries, red cur- (Rioja); $12. A nice, floral, medium-bodied bubbly. rants, tobacco and beef Rioja that should not steer anyone wrong. The jerky. Feels really rich and savory, right through nose is harmonized and not overpowering, while the long, peppery finish. And look at that price. the feel is good and easy and the flavors of berry, plum and mild chocolaty oak work well together. Holds its line on the finish as well. Imported by Admiral Imports.

Bonterra 2009 Riesling 88 (Lake County-Mendocino County); $13. Ultraclean and bright, Spartico NV Organic Wine Tem- as Bonterra’s wines nearly always are, 85 pranillo (Utiel-Requena); $12. A this Riesling shows good varietal fla- clean, nice, regular Tempranillo with normal vors of citrus fruits, peaches, wild- black cherry and berry aromas that offer hints of Acrobat 2009 (); flowers and minerals. It’s bone dry, rubber and bacon. The palate is tannic and 89 $12. Even better than the excellent and the acidity is wonderfully mouth- grabby but balanced for the most part, with pure, 2008 Acrobat, this ups the alcohol to about 13% cleansing. Try as an alternative to basic blackberry and cherry flavors. Modest in its and gives the impression of dryness, though there Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio. scope, but fresh and untainted. Imported by Nat- might be a trace of residual sugar. In any event, ural Merchants LLC. it’s loaded with pretty pear fruit flavor, lightly dusted with cinnamon spice, and fills the mouth with its body and gentle hint of spritz. A fine summer sipper.

82 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 BESTBUYS BESTBUYS BESTBUYS

Line 39 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Oak Grove 2009 Reserve Sauvi- Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi 87 (Lake County); $10. The curve on this 84 gnon Blanc (California); $8. Bone 84 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali- wine has been going up and up, and this ’09 is dry and ultracrisp in acidity, with citrus and fornia); $8. A little thin in flavor, but honest their best yet. It’s bone dry and savory in acids, lemongrass flavors, this Sauvignon Blanc is very and robust, with thick tannins framing blackber- with ultraclean citrus, mineral and white flower clean and invigorating. Better yet, the everyday ries, cherries, currants and herbs. A very good flavors. Just delicious as a cocktail sipper. price is right. price for a Cab this easy to drink.

Marqués de Cáceres 2009 Rosé Oak Grove 2009 Reserve Pinot Bota Box 2009 Pinot Grigio (Cali- 87 (Rioja); $9. Crisp, natural and lightly 84 Grigio (California); $8. Absolutely 83 fornia); $19/3L. This boxed wine has salinic on the nose, with medium weight, good dry and tingly in acidity, this citrus-flavored wine some problems, but at the equivalent of $4.75 a freshness and solid peach and citrus flavors. This is clean and zesty. It’s a fine appetizer sipper for bottle, and with the staying power of its vacuum is a standard but nicely done Rioja rosé with a cleansing the palate. Serve it with little munchies, technology, it’s a pretty good buy. Bone dry and pithy finish and just the right edge to it. Drink like grilled veggies, goat cheese and crackers with crisp, it has pleasant citrus fruit, vanilla and pep- liberally with appetizers and you shouldn’t go crab salad. pery spice flavors. wrong. Imported by Vineyard Brands. SPIRITS

Finlandia Grapefruit 92 Fusion (Altia Corp., Hel- Iranzo Fields 2009 Bobal Rosé skinki, Finland); 37.5% abv, 85 (Utiel-Requena); $6. Almost red in $19. Opens with a fruity, slightly color, with dusty aromas that mix in a blast of Redtree 2009 Pinot Noir (Califor- overripe aroma, very close to true latex and dried cherry notes. The wine is made 84 nia); $8. Good price for an everyday grapefruit. The flavors of pomelo from organically grown Bobal grapes, and it Pinot Noir. It’s not particularly complex, but and lychee are pleasing and more offers tang and bite along with crisp flavors of shows a nice, silky texture, with good acidity and dry than sweet, finishing with a plum skins, raspberry and citrus. Almost sour, but firm dryness. The flavors are of cherries and oak. touch of anise and moderate bite. not. A solid quaffer for the price. Imported by Latitude Wines, Inc.

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SPIRITS BEER honeysuckle blossoms combine with the fresh- ness of pressed apples and a bright, high-toned acidity. Smoke, slate and stone kick in to create a long, elegant finish. Overall, a well balanced, Van Gogh Oranje (Van Bohemia Clásica (Ger- enjoyable wine. —A.I. 92 Gogh Vodka, Dirkzwager 87 man Pilsner; Cerveceria Distilleries, Schiedam, Holland); Cuauhtemoc Moctezuma, Mex- Lamoreaux Landing 2009 Yellow 40% abv, $27. The sweet, high but ico); 5.3% abv, $9/6 pack. Pours 88 Dog Vineyard Riesling (Finger slightly orange-soda ersatz scent a pale straw color with a small head Lakes); $20. From start to finish, there’s so accurately reflects the equally sweet that falls fast. The aromas are faint much going on with Lamoreaux Landing’s Yellow and intensely orange taste of this but clean, with notes of sweet grains, Dog. Honey and orange blossom aromas are vodka. Because it finishes smooth, softly floral hops and a hint of yeast. laced with a whisper of musk. The bright lemon- with rounded orange and tangerine The taste is clean and well balanced, lime sweetness is balanced elegantly with a dis- notes and a Cognac-like, warming with nice earthy hops adding a touch tinct minerality evocative of smoke, slate and touch of honey, it’s addictively sip- of bitterness to the finish alongside the grainy stone, and a bracing acidity that drives a lingering pable. malt backbone. A hint of sweet vanilla bean finish. —A.I. appears on the finish. Light and thin but not watery; definitely a versatile, food-friendly brew. Shaw 2007 Dry Riesling (Finger Finlandia Lime Fusion Lakes); $18. Benefits of bottle aging (Altia Corp., Helskinki, 88 90 show well in this late release by Shaw. Clean and Finland); 37.5% abv, $19. minerally with a shower of freshly squeezed Despite a faint lime-lollipop scent, BEER lemon and honeysuckle on the nose, this almost the flavor of this vodka tilted more dry Riesling is lush with honey and white peaches toward lemon than lime, with per- BESTBUYS on the palate. There’s a sleek backbone of steel haps a touch of lime-leaf essence. and slate that adds elegance to a lingering white The subtle flavor and light feel tea finish. —A.I. would make for a polished, high- end cocktail. Damiani 2009 Riesling (Finger 87 Lakes); $16. Ripe yellow peaches and Finlandia Tangerine cantaloupe combine elegantly with a hint of wet 88 Fusion (Altia Corp., stones on the nose. A nice, tart acidity, steely Helskinki, Finland); 37.5% backbone and a bitter citrus pith finish give this off-dry Riesling structure and balance. —A.I. abv, $19. The flavors are more Cable Car Small Batch Lager Beer reminiscent of pear than orange, (American Adjunct Lager; Cable 86 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2008 Dry and lead to a mouthwatering finish, Car Brewing Co, NY); 4.8% abv, $7/6 Riesling (Finger Lakes); $15. with just the right amount of bite to pack. Light straw-colored in the glass. There’s a 87 Quite balance it out. Juicy, almost too slight metallic note in the bouquet alongside hints dry on the palate, this seductive Riesling exhibits overripe tangerine scent. of sweet malt. Clean and straightforward in the aromas of honeyed ginger with a hint of smoke mouth with an overall light flavor profile, offering and petrol. Lime and apple flavors combine with hints of citrus and more sweet grain flavors. Light a zippy acidity and subtle minerality throughout. bodied and easy to drink with a clean finish; an —A.I. excellent session beer. Glenora 2008 Dry Riesling (Finger 87 Lakes); $18. This wonderfully refresh- ing, dry Riesling is redolent of ripe honeydew CORRECTION Don’t even think about opening it before, say, 2013. melon and freshly pressed Granny Smith apples. All you’ll get is a mouthful of hard, sandpapery tan- Lime and a nice steely backbone combine mid- In the August issue an incorrect image nins. But it’s a very deeply flavored Cabernet, palate with the sour tang of lemon drops and a appeared with the following review. packed with massive blackberry, black currant, lingering bitter almond finish. —A.I. Here is the correct review and image. plum and cedar flavors, and there’s a granitic min- erality that must come from the soil. Very finely Glenora 2009 Riesling (Finger Vineyard 7&8 2007 crafted. Cellar Selection. 87 Lakes); $16. There’s hominess to this 94 Estate Cabernet Sauvi- cheerful, semisweet Riesling that brings apple- gnon (Spring Mountain); $125. sauce and golden honey bears to mind. A touch Bring this bottle straight to the cellar. of pink grapefruit juice and pith, along with

84 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 THE WINE ENTHUSIAST BUYING GUIDE refreshing acidity, add finesse to a long, lingering nose with aromas of honey, roasted hazelnuts and finish. —A.I. a touch of petroleum, this medium-bodied dry The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of Riesling surprises with an unexpected austerity new releases and selected older wines evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Keuka Spring 2009 Riesling (Fin- in the mouth. It’s an interesting transition, how- On a regular basis the Buying Guide includes reports on 87 ger Lakes); $14. Laced with baked ever, resulting in a sleek, steely wine with hints of special tastings and the wines of specific producers. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Senior Editor/ apples, ginger and savory spices, there’s some- chalk dust, bitter lime and canned pineapple fla- Tasting Director Joe Czerwinski, Assistant Tasting Director thing unique about the nose on this off-dry Ries- vors. —A.I. Lauren Buzzeo, Tasting Coordinator Anna Lee Iijima, Exec- utive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, and Contributing Editor ling. On the palate, honeyed apples and pears Michael Schachner in New York, European Editor Roger combine with a tart lemon-lime acidity and a hint Rooster Hill 2008 Dry Riesling (Fin- Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, ger Lakes); $16. Contributing Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland and Con- of bitterness on the finish. —A.I. 86 Overall, this elegant tributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle. If a wine was evalu- wine is dry with just a touch of stonefruit sweet- ated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear Lamoreaux Landing 2009 Semi- ness. Lemon yellow in color, there’s brightness following the note. When no initials appear, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting 87 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes); $13. throughout with ripe apricots, honey and yellow note reflect the input of all tasters. Bitter lime peel and an elegant steeliness give freesia on the nose. A polished minerality and Each review contains a score, the full name of the wine, its suggested national retail price, and a tasting note. If price structure to the sweet, fresh apples that domi- orange pith bitterness help keep things in bal- cannot be confirmed, $NA (not available) will be printed. nate this off-dry style Riesling. Bright lemon-lime ance. —A.I. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. acidity leads to a mouthwatering pucker on the TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS Arbor Hill 2009 Riesling (Finger Tastings are conducted individually or in a group setting and finish. —A.I. performed blind or in accordance with accepted industry 85 Lakes); $13. There’s nothing subtle practices. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When pos- Wagner 2008 Dry Riesling (Finger about the powerful elderflower, jasmine tea and sible, wines considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. 87 Lakes); $13. This is a gorgeously per- ripe melon aromas that perfume this heady Ries- ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular wine. fumed Riesling, chock-full of white flowers and ling. It’s made in a ripe, off-dry style but finishes Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompany- ripe, juicy stonefruit, but not at all cloying. Dry surprisingly dry. An interesting wine, but the aro- ing tasting note to learn about a wine’s special characteristics. on the palate, it exhibits elegant peach and apri- matics may be a bit dizzying. —A.I. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. cot flavors that lead to a long, lingering finish Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. marked by lime peel and a hint of chalk. —A.I. Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2009 Ries- Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. 85 ling (Finger Lakes); $12. A perfect Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Billsboro 2009 Riesling (Finger companion to the fall season, this easy- Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- 86 Lakes); $16. Bright with fresh apple drinking Riesling is evocative of candied apples critical circumstances. and pear aromas, this off-dry style Riesling is a and warm apple pie spice. There’s not a lot of Wines receiving a rating below 80 are not reviewed. sunny, cheerful wine that melds the sweetness of complexity, but it’s light and fresh in the mouth SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS tangerines with a high-toned acidity. —A.I. with a puckery lime and sour patch candy finish. Editors’ Choice wines are those that offer excellent qual- ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a wine at any price —A.I. with unique qualities that merit special attention. Heron Hill 2008 Dry Riesling (New Cellar Selections are wines deemed highly collectible York); $13. Heron Hill 2008 Semi-Sweet Ries- and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cel- 86 Subtle aromas of freshly cut lar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection des- grass and crisp Asian pears make this clean, dry 85 ling (New York); $13. Mouthwater- ignation does not mean that a wine must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more Riesling a refreshing sipping wine. A tingly acidity ing, high-toned acidity and a pleasant lemon-lime enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring and citrus pith notes linger playfully on the bitterness keeps the honeyed apple characteris- will be indicated. palate. —A.I. tics of this semisweet style Riesling in balance. Best Buys are wines that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or for- Elegant mineral and petrol notes lead to a linger- mulae for determining Best Buys, but they are generally Lakewood 2008 Dry Riesling (Fin- ing, puckery finish. —A.I. priced at $15 or less. 86 ger Lakes); $13. A dry-style Riesling SUBMITTING WINES FOR REVIEW Wines should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing with fresh apple, pear and petrol aromas, and a Keuka Spring 2009 Semi Sweet location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via persistent minerality throughout. It’s simple and 85 Riesling (Finger Lakes); $14. Mulled winemag.com/contact. Inquiries should be addressed to Assistant Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo at 914.345.8463 or straightforward, but there’s a refreshing lemonade apple cider, ginger and candied orange peel aro- email [email protected]. There is no charge for acidity and a hint of lime zest at the finish. —A.I. mas perfume this easy-drinking Riesling. Tart submitting wines. We make every effort to taste all wines acidity and a kick of apple pie spice meld play- submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all wines submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the Lamoreaux Landing 2009 Dry fully with the semisweet palate. A nice wine for magazine. All wines must be accompanied by a submission 86 Riesling (Finger Lakes); $13. Melon casual autumn entertaining. —A.I. form, which may be downloaded from our Web site. and jasmine aromas abound in this light, refresh- LABELS Labels are paid promotions. Wineries and winery ing Riesling offering glimpses of white peach, Knapp 2009 Riesling (Finger representatives are given the opportunity to submit labels, lime and slate on the palate. A hint of bitter 85 Lakes); $15. Sweetened with a concen- which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact almond adds complexity to the finish. —A.I. tration of juicy, ripe pineapple and tropical fruit on Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or both the nose and palate, this is an uncomplicated email [email protected]. Ravines 2008 Dry Riesling (Finger and fruity off-dry Riesling. A tart, zingy acidity Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at 86 Lakes); $17. Sunny and warm on the balances the sweetness on the finish. —A.I. buyingguide.winemag.com

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Knapp 2009 Dry Riesling (Finger Riesling. The flavor profile is a bit bony, featuring 85 Lakes); $15. A distinct headiness to the lemon, underripe nectarine and bitter green OREGON gardenia blossoms that perfume this Riesling con- almonds, but there’s a pleasant silkiness to the trasts with the bright, tropical pineapple, candied texture of this wine. —A.I. RED WINES fruit and tangerine flavors that dominate in the mouth. A touch of minerality and racy acidity Lamoreaux Landing 2009 Red Oak PINOT NOIR round out the finish. —A.I. 84 Vineyard Riesling (Finger Lakes); $20. Delicate white flowers and honeydew mel- Le Cadeau 2008 Serendipity Pinot Swedish Hill 2009 Riesling (Finger ons perfume this light, crisp Riesling with hints of 93 Noir (Willamette Valley); $65. Full 85 Lakes); $16. This off-dry Riesling stone and slate. There’s an elegant minerality and rich, this seductive wine, crafted by Tony seems herbal on the nose with a hint of fresh cut throughout, but its austerity may come off as a Rynders, has a little extra in terms of fruit, impact grass and bark, but in the mouth, it’s all bright, tad dilute. —A.I. and finishing power. Ripe strawberry, cola, sweet ripe tropical fruits and tangerine. Medium bodied hay, nougat and a penetrating midpalate that is with a racy acidity to offset the sweetness. —A.I. Penguin Bay 2009 Semi-Sweet concentrated but not jammy. The finish seems to 84 Riesling (Finger Lakes); $15. Notes gather strength, and resonates beautifully for sev- Treleaven 2008 Semi-dry Riesling of honey and baked apple waft curiously amid eral minutes after you swallow. —P.G. 85 (Finger Lakes); $14. Distinctly grassy, white floral aromas on this semisweet Riesling. Aubichon Cellars 2008 Reserve vegetal aromas add savoriness to this light-bod- The perfume can be a tad cloying, competing Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); ied, semi-dry style Riesling. On the palate, there with sweet lychee and pink grapefruit flavors on 92 $42. are hints of quince, lemon and apple tinged with the palate, but white tea on the finish adds ele- Wow! Right away your mouth is pounded slate adding depth to an otherwise uncomplicated gance and restraint. —A.I. with gorgeous blackberry fruit—it’s like gulping wine. —A.I. down a fresh-picked bucket of berries. There is a Standing Stone 2009 Riesling (Fin- lovely softness here, but plenty of acidity and Waters Crest 2009 Dry Riesling depth as well. Though the tech sheet lists two ger Lakes); $14. There’s plenty of (New York); $24. Intense aromas of 84 thirds new oak barrels, the fruit is so fresh and 85 freshly squeezed lemon and apple flavor in this day lilies, honey and spiced canned peaches full and luscious that they fade into the back- crisp, racy wine. Behind the honey and petrol abound in this not quite “dry” Riesling. The ground, leaving just a ghostly trail of cracker and aromas, however, there’s a slightly industrial, rub- mouth feels a bit confected with so much sunny butter in the resonant finish. —P.G. bery note lingering in the backdrop. Nice tart orange marmalade and lemondrop flavors, but acidity finishes with a hint of sour apple candy on the finish ends drier with a hint of bitter orange Le Cadeau 2008 Rocheux Pinot the palate. —A.I. pith. —A.I. 92 Noir (Oregon); $47. The Rocheux bottling comes from a vineyard parcel with espe- Billsboro 2008 Dry Riesling (Finger Four Degrees of Riesling 2009 2nd cially rocky soil, and there is a heightened miner- Lakes); $16. Lean and austere in style, Degree Riesling (Seneca Lake); 83 ality along with a racy, well-defined edge to the 84 this dry Riesling offers steely notes, savory herbs $13. Third in Three Brothers’ series of four Ries- wine that the French call “nerveux.” It’s a thrill to lings, this bottling is accurately labeled as semi- and crisp pears combined with a shot of intense, taste if you race along with it and if you like a sweet, although certainly sweeter than the 1st lemon-lime acidity. —A.I. more acidic style, with tart raspberry fruit as your Degree. There’s a consistency through the series companion. The finish brings in leaf and vanilla, Four Degrees of Riesling 2009 0 with a savory nose of anise, fennel and petroleum. all in context and perfectly balanced. —P.G. Degrees Riesling (Seneca Lake); The mouth is full of ripe fruit—this time juicy 83 honeydew and tangerines—and a hint of jasmine $13. Although it’s the driest of Three Brothers’ Boedecker Cellars 2007 Carlton tea that adds astringency to the finish. —A.I. series of four Rieslings showcasing increasing 91 Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir sweetness levels, this wine would be more accu- (Willamette Valley); $50. A detailed and del- Four Degrees of Riesling 2009 1st rately described as off-dry in style. The nose is icate bottle that captures the grace and evanes- 84 Degree Riesling (Seneca Lake); distinctly savory with hints of fennel, ramp and cence of the grape. It’s scented with fruit and $13. The second in Three Brothers’ series of petroleum. On the palate, there’s a surprising spice and incense; flavors mingle the same ele- four Rieslings, this wine would be more accu- sunburst of lemon and lime balanced with a brisk ments in perfect harmony. There’s a pleasing soft- rately described as semisweet. There’s a familiar acidity. —A.I. ness in the mouth, a velvety embrace that wraps hint of fennel and petroleum on the nose here, into a long finish. Drinking well already, but contrasted by a bright lemon-honey sweetness Hunt Country Vineyards 2009 Dry probably a good bet to cellar for another six to and hints of grapefruit. —A.I. 82 Riesling (Finger Lakes); $14. eight years. —P.G. Restrained both aromatically and on the palate, Keuka Lake Vineyards 2008 Semi- this Riesling offers modest hints of green apple David Hill 2007 BlackJack Pinot 84 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes); $15. and pear combined with a slightly herbal note. 91 Noir (Willamette Valley); $45. With Aromas of lime, honey and petroleum mesh well There’s not a lot of complexity or concentration, its Ace-Jack of spades on the label, this dark and with a hint of fresh brioche in this off-dry style but it’s a brisk, refreshing wine. —A.I. moody Pinot Noir seems to say “call my bluff, I

86 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 dare you!” But it’s not a bluff—the flavors are real bright, fresh flavors that go deep and last into a mouth, not a blockbuster, but complex and lin- and substantial, with black fruits, red licorice, cola very satisfying finish. Young as it is, it will be diffi- gering, with the sort of creamy finish that invites and smoke threading their way into a tannic, cult to keep your hands off this bottle. But it will the next glass immediately. —P.G. meaty finish. —P.G. reward cellaring over the next 6–8 years. —P.G. Le Cadeau 2008 Equinoxe Pinot LaVelle Vineyards 2008 Matthew’s Aubichon Cellars 2008 Pinot Noir 90 Noir (Willamette Valley); $47. 91 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette 90 (Willamette Valley); $34. Delicious Nicely balanced, with a rich mix of tart, brambly Valley); $36. The winery notes that this is their is the first word that pops into your head when berries, hard cherry candy, spicy herb and a vein first reserve quality Pinot Noir since 1998—a you taste this wine. It’s got the sort of sweet fruit of dark mineral. Everything is woven together in remarkable statement. It reaches for that extra that you find in Russian River Pinots, yet retains balance; the individual flavors stand out like something without blowing itself out of propor- the definition and refinement, along with a slight threads in a tapestry, but give the wine texture tion, retaining the varietal elegance so nicely dis- herbal nuance, that speaks of the Willamette Val- and depth. —P.G. played in the regular 2008 bottling. This is bigger, ley. Long in the mouth and tangy with a mix of tighter and harder—with more tannic weight— spice and fruit sweetness in the finish. —P.G. Rex Hill 2008 Pinot Noir than that wine, and should be cellared while you 90 (Willamette Valley); $32. Though drink up its stable mate. —P.G. David Hill 2007 Estate Reserve this is near the bottom end of the Rex Hill Pinot 90 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); pole, it does not suffer from a lack of flavor. Big Le Cadeau 2008 Côte Est Pinot $38. The sharp, unmistakable scent of new fruit, organically grown, runs right through the Noir (Oregon); $47. 91 Each Le Cadeau French oak barrels hits you immediately, and it core, a mix of berries, cherries and plums; woven wine has a different consulting winemaker, and plays nicely against this winery’s naturally spicy, into the fruit is a lightly leafy vein, a whiff of some are down in Ukiah, hence the Oregon AVA, lightly resinous style of Pinot Noir. The elegant tobacco, and a suggestion of earthy, organic com- although this is estate-grown, Willamette Valley side of Oregon Pinot Noir is also on display, partly post. Thoroughly delicious. —P.G. fruit. This new Côte Est (eastern slope) is still a virtue of the winery, partly a reflection of the tight, very young and a bit withdrawn. There are vintage. Though light, it is not simple, and the Scott Paul 2008 D122 Pinot Noir earthy flavors around the spicy purple fruits; it’s black raspberry and black cherry fruit is mixed (Ribbon Ridge); $35. This D122 is a balanced and fine, and seems to have a more del- with streaks of cola, anise and clove. —P.G. 90 new addition to the Scott Paul lineup, a selection icate, feminine spin than the other new releases of four favorite barrels from the Ribbon Ridge from Le Cadeau. Time will tell. Decant it or, even Kramer 2006 Heritage Pinot Noir vineyard. Don’t let its pretty, pale cherry color better, cellar it for about five years. —P.G. (Yamhill-Carlton District); $40. 90 fool you—this bright and lively young Pinot Noir From vines planted in 1984, this is the winery’s is structured for the cellar. A mix of fresh cran- Seven of Hearts 2008 Reserve reserve bottling. Aromas are inviting, varietal and berry, spicy plum and pie cherry fruit is sup- Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); complex, with layers of berry fruits, sassafras, cola 91 ported by tart acids and firm, polished tannins. $42. Despite its reserve designation, this elegant and sandalwood. The wine catches the delicacy of The lingering finish adds licorice and hints of wine emphasizes feminine grace over pure the grape along with its unique ability to persist in bark. Note that this is sealed with a screwcap, and power. The alcohol is cited as 13.5%, and the fruit the mouth despite its lightness. This looks to be has the spicy tang of just-ripe berries, not sweet ageworthy, elegant and special. Cellar Selection. needs decanting. —P.G. or jammy. Spicy herb details illuminate a wine —P.G. Vista Hills 2008 Skyraider Reserve wrapped in smooth milk chocolate barrel flavors. Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $60. Drinking well already, but should improve over LaVelle Vineyards 2008 Pinot Noir 90 the next five or six years. —P.G. 90 (Willamette Valley); $24. Lovely, Clean, crisply defined fruit tastes like ripe straw- soft, slightly exotic scents captivate immedi- berries, with side notes of melon and orange peel. Seven of Hearts 2008 Crawford ately—raspberry and sandalwood, incense and Good acidity, and the winemaker has let the fruit 91 Beck Vineyard Pinot Noir (Eola- peppermints (wasn’t that a song a long time steal the show—if there are new barrels involved, Amity Hills); $35. All of the Seven of Hearts ago?). Pretty fruit is showcased nicely, with bal- they are certainly in the background. Medium- wines open with lovely floral scents, then add ancing acidity and a light touch as far as new oak bodied, nicely balanced and built for cellaring earth and dark fruits. This has a black cherry is concerned. More subtle fruit and spice flavors over the next 6–8 years. —P.G. core, the fruit wrapped in earthy loam, and the wind through the finish, but it’s full-on Pinot tannins are softened with barrel flavors of vanilla Noir, with no tricks or trade-offs. Editors’ Z’IVO 2006 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity custard. Single vineyard, single clone (115), Choice. —P.G. 90 Hills); $35. This is estate-grown, a mix focused and detailed. —P.G. of five Pinot Noir clones, from an excellent vin- Le Cadeau 2008 Diversité Pinot tage. Perfumed and showing floral and berry Vista Hills 2008 Rollins Estate 90 Noir (Willamette Valley); $47. Le accents, the wine hits the palate like a soft, wet 91 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $44. Cadeau consistently scores well with their evoca- kiss. Light and gentle, yet penetrating and seduc- Sharp and precise, this opens with intense scents tive and textural Pinots. In this excellent vintage tive, the tannins have been nicely managed and of raspberry and summer strawberries, beauti- there are layers of earth and spice, sweet sassafras keep the wine, as the winery notes, “disturbingly fully aromatic. The fruit loads the palate with and brambly fruit. It just sits really well in the quaffable.” —P.G.

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Coelho 2008 Paciência Estate Vista Hills 2008 Piedmont Estate This is a sinuous, fleshy, fruit-driven wine, but 89 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); 89 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $44. there’s plenty of chocolaty oak in the soft, lightly $42. Done in a lighter style, and listed at under Smooth and fruity, this seductive wine is front- peppery finish. Forward and appealing, this is 13% alcohol, this is scented with sweet strawber- loaded with pretty cherry fruit. It shows a little one to enjoy right now. —P.G. ries and tastes like them also, with a soft core of herb and loam in the midpalate, and that pretty fruit and very gentle tannins. Light streaks of sas- fruit fades away gently, leaving a harmonious, Luminous Hills 2008 Estate Grown safras and chocolate wrap it up. —P.G. give-me-another-sip aftertaste. —P.G. 87 Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton Dis- trict); $28. Light, young vine fruit flavors mix Rex Hill 2007 Jacob-Hart Vineyard Illahe 2008 Pinot Noir (Willamette strawberry and rhubarb, with a tangy, citrus com- 89 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); 88 Valley); $20. Here is an affordably ponent underscoring the midpalate. It gets a little $52. Organically grown, this fruit is from the priced Oregon Pinot that nonetheless spent 15 more interesting in the finish, which brings in estate vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains. Old months in French oak, 20% new. This brings seed flavors and a lingering, orange juicy after- vine elegance and subtlety are much in evidence, sappy varietal fruit flavors of cherry and rasp- taste. —P.G. even in this bottling from a difficult, rain-soaked berry, with a lick of caramel, presumably from vintage. It’s a delicate wine that nonetheless the barrel aging. A great choice for near-term Luminous Hills 2008 LUX Pinot offers persistent, complex flavors: strawberry and drinking. —P.G. 87 Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District); sour cherry, dried Italian herbs and a finishing $35. The LUX bottling has a bit more concen- Plowbuster 2008 Pinot Noir lick of chocolate. —P.G. tration than the other estate-grown Pinot Noir 88 (Willamette Valley); $20. Warmly from Luminous Hills. The fruit carries much the Seven of Hearts 2008 Pinot Noir sensuous in the mouth, this gentle and attractive same strawberry/citrus flavor, but with more grip (Eola-Amity Hills); $28. Eola Hills Pinot Noir offers soft fruit, a mix of berries and and focus. The tannins are proportional, and the 89 plums, that slides gracefully across the palate. It’s wine is balanced, but thins out quickly in the Pinots often offer this sort of interesting flavors— dappled with light hints of cracker and chocolate, finish. —P.G. a mix of earth, herb and forest; the red fruit is tart and the balance is maintained until the very end, and the tannins hard. A wine to cellar, it already where there is a finishing heat spike from the Ponzi 2008 Tavola Pinot Noir shows depth and penetration, with a darker, 14.5% alcohol. —P.G. (Willamette Valley); $25. Crisply smoky streak in the finish. —P.G. 87 defined cranberry fruit, with a strong herbal Rex Hill 2007 Dundee Hills Pinot streak and a hint of saddle leather. The cranberry Spindrift Cellars 2008 Pinot Noir Noir (Willamette Valley); $38. flavors pierce through, with vivid acidity pushing (Willamette Valley); $20. Scents of 88 89 Organically grown and sourced from the Dundee them into the lingering finish. Serve chilled, with dark chocolate greet you immediately; woven into Hills AVA, this is from the lighter vintage of 2007. turkey. —P.G. the palate are delicate, feminine Pinot Noir fruit It’s balanced and ripe enough, but feels a little flavors. The overall impression is light and ele- thin. What does stand out are the excellent aro- Rex Hill 2007 Reserve Pinot Noir gant, a mix of berries and wafer-thin chocolate. matics, already sliding into maturity, and offering (Willamette Valley); $42. Organically It’s a pleasure to find more and more Oregon pro- 87 intriguing scents and flavors of cola, cured meat, grown and selected from a mix of specific vineyard ducers moving to lower alcohol (here 13%), more moist earth, truffle and salt. —P.G. blocks, Rex Hill’s reserve is rather light in 2007, elegant Pinots. —P.G. with tannins that are a bit out of proportion to the Seven of Hearts 2008 Pinot Noir fruit. It’s a carefully controlled effort, but thin and Stoller 2007 JV Estate Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); $24. This multi- dilute, with strawberry/watermelon fruit and some (Dundee Hills); $25. 88 89 This is a standout vineyard blend opens with light floral notes, hits tomato leaf creeping into the finish. —P.G. in this price range. The well-defined cherry/cran- the palate with spice, clove and pepper, then berry fruit is wrapped in fresh rosemary and tar- brings in cranberry and pie cherry fruit. Complex Torii Mor 2008 La Colina Vineyard ragon spices; the tannins are polished and there is and racy, it will be best with additional cellaring. 87 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $50. an intriguing scent of pine forest that permeates —P.G. This is a sharp, tart Pinot, scented with pine nee- the finishing flavors also. Such complexity is not dles and showing wild strawberry fruit flavors always found in wines twice as expensive. —P.G. Stoller 2005 Cathy’s Reserve Pinot and plenty of sharp acidity. In the mouth the 88 Noir (Dundee Hills); $100. A late fruit also reveals a cherry candy core, pretty but Thistle 2007 Pinot Noir (Dundee release, very limited-production reserve, this still brief, and quickly winds down through a citrusy 89 Hills); $24. Thistle makes a spicy, carries a youthful bite and shows a strong pine finish. —P.G. herbal, earthy style of Pinot Noir, so don’t look for and herb component. It’s solid and full, but a bit sweet, ripe, jammy flavors. The fruit tastes like blocky, and fades rather quickly. —P.G. Torii Mor 2008 Olson Estate Vine- the tart, wild berries of the Northwest, and it’s 87 yard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); backed with tart acidity and chewy tannins. But Vista Hills 2008 Treehouse Pinot $55. This feels over-cropped, dilute, with more the concentration, focus and detail of the wine 88 Noir (Dundee Hills); $28. Strawberry than a little tomato leaf and vegetable among its elevate it, and it persists in the mouth far longer preserves, leather and chocolate are all in the mix rather delicate scents and flavors. In this price than you anticipate. —P.G. here, nicely mingled and mutually supportive. range, from this excellent vintage, you might

88 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 expect more ripeness and concentration. It’s per- with hints of strawberry and licorice. Clean, crisp leather tack-room scents and flavors, making for a fectly pleasant, but drinks like a village wine, not and noticeably acidic, it would be most enjoyable sharp, short, fruitless wine. —P.G. a premier cru. —P.G. with a richly sauced breast of duck. —P.G.

Amalie Robert 2007 Vintage Kramer 2007 Port Pinot Noir GRENACHE 86 Debut Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- 85 (Yamhill-Carlton District); $30. A ley); $30. The first vintage for this designation, Pinot Noir Port is a rare creature, and somewhat Cowhorn 2008 Grenache 74 it’s all estate-grown and hand-harvested. Accents contradictory. How to match the delicacy of the 90 Grenache (Applegate Valley); $27. of tomato leaf and wet cement in the nose, wild Pinot Noir grape with the power and punch of For those who value a totally natural, biodynamic, strawberry and rhubarb in the mouth. Quite tart Port-style, fortified wines? Here it’s the alcohol unfiltered wine, this is it. The neck of the bottle is and light, but well-made and varietal. —P.G. and spirits that take over; the Pinot bringing some lined with purple sediment that is almost psyche- cherry fruit flavors but lacking the weight and delic it’s so intense. The wine is fermented with Coeur de Terre 2008 Pinot Noir substance to feel authoritative. —P.G. native yeasts, and it’s a scrapey, authentic beast of 86 (McMinnville); $20. Aromatic and flo- a Grenache, with 15% Syrah in the blend, and it ral, this forward and fruity Pinot mixes spicy rasp- Open Book 2006 Pinot Noir takes no prisoners. Grapey, full-throttle, deep and berry and strawberry fruit leading into a cherry 85 (Willamette Valley); $38. Full and concentrated, with blueberries and plums, boy- cola core. That’s where it remains through a quick deep, with a very ripe, raisined, pruney character. senberries and kirsch, it invites both contempla- fade. Good near-term drinking. —P.G. The alcohol is listed at just 13.5%, but the wine tion and hedonistic pleasure. —P.G. tastes much, much riper. Yet in the finish it thins Coeur de Terre 2008 Estate Pinot out, without the weight or burn that one would 2008 Garnacha (Southern 86 Noir (McMinnville); $34. Cola, Dr. normally expect in such ripe fruit. Hard to know 87 Oregon); $22. This Grenache-based Pepper, cherry coke all come to mind, as this has what the winemaker did to produce this wine, but wine includes 10% Tempranillo, 4% and a strong emphasis on those flavors, or sassafras as the end result does not hang together as well as it 2% Syrah in the sophisticated blend. Recently some define them. It’s tasty, forward and light, should. —P.G. bottled, it’s still tight, tannic, and hiding much of with a lightly herbal aftertaste. Perfectly pleas- its fruit. The aromas give an indication of what’s ant, though not showing much depth. —P.G. Primarius 2007 Pinot Noir (Ore- to come—cranberry fruit and lemony acidity, 85 gon); $20. Round and fruity, soft and with some firm tannins. —P.G. Torii Mor 2008 Dundee Hills Select mature, this combine pie cherry fruit with brown 86 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $41. sugar, baking spices and some peppery herb, per- Agate Ridge 2008 Grenache Though not as concentrated as many examples haps from the addition of a small amount of Syrah 81 (Rogue Valley); $23. There is a bit of from this AVA, this brings identifiable Pinot Noir to the blend. Think California Central Coast sweetness which gives a quick impression of body character, albeit in a rather thin, austere style. Pinot with some of Oregon’s herbal bite. —P.G. to the light, cherry-flavored fruit. Once in the Pale cranberry and pomegranate fruit is matched mouth the wine quickly fades, leaving just an to tart acidity and a veneer of herb. —P.G. Torii Mor 2008 Pinot Noir astringent aftertaste with no particular varietal 84 (Willamette Valley); $24. Quite light character. —P.G. A to Z Wineworks 2008 Pinot Noir in both aroma and flavor, this hits the palate softly, 85 (Oregon); $20. At 62,000-plus cases, with tart, thin fruit and a jarring, somewhat plastic you are in the land of the seamless blend. Oregon note that persists into the finish. There’s a hint of MALBEC does not have vast contiguous vineyards, so these chocolate, but not much going on here. —P.G. grapes must have come from here, there and Watermill 2007 Estate Malbec everywhere. The result is a gentle, lightly fruity, Cubanisimo Vineyards 2008 Estate 90 (Walla Walla); $28. Pure Malbec, crisp, clean and innocuous Pinot Noir that lacks 83 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); with a lovely bouquet of juicy berries and choco- only a sense of place. —P.G. $30. Thin and disjointed, with strawberry soda late, this dark and sensuous wine leans on the fruit flavors that drop off quickly into an amor- barrel flavors but has the fruit power to carry Cathedral Ridge 2008 Pinot Noir phous midpalate. There’s some plastic aftertaste through. You can taste the Malbec in the Asian 85 (Columbia Valley (OR)); $26. From in the finish. —P.G. spice and mulberry core; then the cinnamon and the Columbia Valley AVA in Oregon, this is quite cardamom kick in. —P.G. different from Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. It’s a Agate Ridge 2007 Clonal Selection warmer, drier climate, and the wine has tighter 82 Pinot Noir (Rogue Valley); $24. Abacela 2007 Malbec (Umpqua flavors, with sharp tannins. There’s cherry fruit Relatively low in alcohol (12.2% is the listing), 88 Valley); $22. Exotic scents immediately and chocolate from barrel aging, with a hard, this is thin on fruit but does offer soft flavors of characterize this wine as fascinating; weaving slightly bitter finish. —P.G. yeasty bread dough, along with some stemmy tan- together incense, smoke, wild berry, baking spices nins. —P.G. and plum jam. Yet the wine retains a delicacy, Jigsaw 2008 Pinot Noir (Oregon); lightness, its flavors based upon juicy acids rather 85 $20. This would be easy to mistake for Château Bianca 2008 Pinot Noir than new oak. It showcases the fruit, and does so Grenache—it’s ruby-colored, cranberry-flavored, 81 (Willamette Valley); $15. Smoke and with grace and panache. —P.G.

WineMag.com | 89 BUYING I GUIDE

Velocity 2007 Velo Red (Rogue Fruit from Seven Hills and Spofford Station pro- CABERNETS & BLENDS 88 Valley); $18. An affordable blend that vides the solid frame of black cherry, licorice, and is almost 60% Malbec, the rest Cabernet Sauvi- tannin. This is a blocky wine, monolithic but full- Velocity 2006 Red Wine(Rogue gnon, Franc and Syrah. It drinks well, smooth bodied; best paired with hearty red meat dishes. 90 Valley); $25. From one of the most tal- and polished, and the rough tannins that can —P.G. ented winemakers in the Rogue Valley comes this often overtake the fruit in this region have been red blend, which could be labeled Malbec, as that nicely managed here, pulling the wine into bal- Cathedral Ridge 2007 Bordheauxd is 88% of the blend (the rest is Cabernet Franc). ance. Strawberry and light black cherry, some 86 Red (Columbia Valley); $26. Yes, The varietal character comes through nicely, herb and tar, and good grip for an everyday red. that is the correct spelling, as shown on the wine’s wrapped in toasty oak, with lovely spice highlights —P.G. label. A blend of 10% Merlot, 56% Syrah, and around raspberry and Bing cherry fruit. Lively 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, this is dark, plum-col- Zerba Cellars 2007 Wild Z (Walla ored and dusty with scents of plum and prune. and textural, with a hint of funk. —P.G. 88 Walla); $20. Zerba’s crowd-pleasing Soft and moving quickly into midlife, it drinks J. Scott Cellars 2007 Cabernet Wild Z blends Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and like an older wine, with soft tannins and a hint of Sauvignon (Rogue Valley); $27. Syrah about equally, with a splash of Cabernet supple leather. —P.G. 89 Franc to finish it off. It’s a ripe, full, forward, Rogue Valley Cabernet Sauvignon has yet to carve chocolaty mouthful. It keeps the red fruit tart and Abacela 2007 Cabernet Franc out any sort of reputation for itself, and has been tantalizing, while loading in the barrel flavors (Southern Oregon); $27. Excellent prone to herbaceous, even vegetal fruit with 86 (French and American) to round off the finish. A winemaking extracts the maximum value from aggressively rough tannins. Winemaker Jonathan fine follow-up to the excellent 2006. —P.G. the grapes. Scents are a little volatile and pruney, Oberlander has gone a ways toward taming them, but the wine is not. Flavors are a mix of plum rounding out the fruit, and crafting a complete and Abacela 2006 Claret (Southern pudding, chocolate, baking spice and vanilla, with satisfying wine. Its best feature is the nose, com- 87 Oregon); $32. Two thirds Cabernet lavender and blueberry streaks. Not your Califor- plex, varietal and tightly laced. The mix of dried Sauvignon, with the other Bordeaux grapes filling nia or Cabernet Franc, this charts a herb, black olive, smoke and cassis fills in the mid- in the rest. Though this 2006 vintage was held unique path. —P.G. palate with Bordeaux-like authority. —P.G. back for some time to allow for extra bottle age, this is still a hard, tannic wine that requires Cliff Creek 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- Watermill 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- decanting. The build-out is well done, tannins 86 gnon (Southern Oregon); $24. In 89 gnon (Walla Walla); $24. As in ear- firm and moderately ripe, fruit flavors Bordeaux- contrast to the winery’s big, rough and tumble lier vintages, this is three quarters Cabernet, one like. Right now it’s a bit monolithic, tasty enough, style of Merlot, this Cabernet is lightly fruity. It quarter Merlot, from McClellan Estate, Lewis but without the textural interest that most shows cherry and cranberry hard candy fruit fla- and Seven Hills fruit. You will find a clear and Abacela wines display. —P.G. vors. The tannins are rough and substantial, and varietal flavor mix of cassis, herb and bark, with quickly take over the finish. —P.G. some spice and chocolate accents from barrel Cathedral Ridge 2008 Necessity aging in half-new French oak. Good balance and 87 Red (Columbia Valley); $24. Any- Abacela NV Vintner’s Blend #10 persistence. —P.G. where but in Oregon, this could be labeled Pinot 85 Red Table Wine (Southern Ore- Noir, which makes up 80% of the blend; the rest gon); $16. A tart, all-purpose red, with 14 dif- Zero One Vintners 2007 Wild Sky is Zinfandel. It’s a combination that makes sense ferent grapes in the blend. The result, 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla in the Columbia Gorge. The Pinot is more earthy predictably, is generic. No particular variety dom- and tannic than in the Willamette Valley, and the inates; it’s a high acid red wine, with stiff tannins. Walla); $30. This wine has the magic mix of Zin lighter than you find in California. The result —P.G. vanilla, tobacco and cherry that many consumers is a wine tasting of wild cherries, tart, spicy and (and critics) love. It’s a seductive Cabernet from quite quaffable. —P.G. Cathedral Ridge 2007 Rock Star an excellent Walla Walla vineyard, with a little bit Red (Columbia Valley); $44. The of Yakima Valley Merlot blended in. With more 85 Melrose Vineyards 2007 Equinox Rock Star Red is a 50/50 Cabernet/Syrah blend. time it may flesh out and show better depth to 87 Red Blend (Umpqua Valley); $20. The two grapes work well together in many the fruit, but it’s quite enjoyable as is. —P.G. Not sure a Syrah/Baco Noir/Dolcetto/Merlot wines, but here they seem a bit at odds. The blend has ever been done, but here it is. Sharp Cabernet carries some green, herbal, pickle bar- Folin Cellars 2008 Misceo (Rogue with spicy rhubarb fruit and a leathery under- rel flavors; the Syrah brings in pepper and spice, 88 Valley); $34. Folin’s Misceo is a blend taste, this rustic, earthy wine is plenty flavorful but neither has the ripeness to flesh out the wine of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, all estate- and wild. Suggestion: chill it, serve it in tumblers, sufficiently. There are flavors of plum and cooked grown. The forward fruit flavors run through and appreciate its wildness with a smoky rack of cherry, then it hits some chewy tannins and stops berries, cherries and red plums; the wine is nicely grilled ribs. —P.G. short. —P.G. balanced with acid and tannin in proportion. Think southern Rhône, young vines and you are Patit Creek Cellars 2007 Cabernet Cliff Creek 2007 Cabernet Franc in the right ballpark. —P.G. 87 Sauvignon (Walla Walla); $29. 84 (Southern Oregon); $26. This tastes

90 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 barely ripe, and the 12.5% alcohol listing—quite Folin Cellars 2007 Syrah (Rogue could be from any one of a number of well- low for this variety—seems to confirm the 88 Valley); $30. This is a light, pleasant, known Walla Walla wineries. —P.G. impression. It’s high in acid, with thin, sharp tan- balanced Syrah that shows a mix of earth, herb, nins, and without the balancing heft and sweet- saline, soy, cherry and chocolate flavors, but all Tempus Cellars 2007 Seven Hills ness to the fruit. That said, it would be perfectly subdued. Take a high-end Washington Syrah and 88 Vineyard Merlot (Walla Walla); compatible with a grilled steak, much like a sim- lighten it up—those are the flavors here. If you $28. A chewy, high-acid take on Merlot, with a ple Bordeaux. —P.G. value elegance and complexity, this will be just strong herbal note to the tannins. It might almost right for you. —P.G. pass for Carmenère. The fruit flavors are sub- Agate Ridge 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- dued but ripe enough, and the alcohol touches Francis Tannahill 2006 Mason 83 gnon (Rogue Valley); $24. Scents of 14.7%. This is the sort of muscular Merlot that Dixon Syrah (Oregon); $28. Stiff and can take the place of Cabernet alongside a grilled plum and cassis lead into a tart wine with acidic, 88 tannic, this dark and steely Syrah is scented with steak. —P.G. tannic, black cherry fruit flavors. The acids are loam, lead pencil and blackberries. The black- quite chalky, and the tannins chewy and slightly berry fruit is matched, but not over-matched, with Abacela 2007 Merlot (Southern green. —P.G. darker notes of tar, coffee and bitter chocolate. 87 Oregon); $20. A mix of estate-grown Tannins are a little rugged, but not overbearing, and sourced (from the Rogue valley) grapes, this Springhouse Cellar 2008 Make and carry a hint of green coffee. —P.G. Oregon Merlot has black cherry and chocolate at Cab Not War Cabernet Sauvignon 83 its core, but quickly thins out, with very tart acid- (Columbia Valley); $24. This Cabernet is a J. Scott Cellars 2007 Del Rio Vine- ity. It’s got its own style, with stiff tannins, the leaf bit on the green side, with sharp, slightly bitter 87 yard Syrah (Rogue Valley); $23. and stem notes subdued, and a fine balance. But it tannins that are not completely masked by the Light strawberry and black cherry fruit is the will show best with food, especially steak. —P.G. overlay of chocolaty barrel flavors. —P.G. story here, backed with decent acidity. Tannins are dark and well-structured, so the wine keeps Springhouse Cellar 2008 Poetry in Cathedral Ridge 2007 Cabernet its balance. Though it does not have the weight or 86 Merlotion Merlot (Columbia Val- 81 Sauvignon (Columbia Valley); $32. depth of Washington Syrahs, or the sweet berry ley); $24. This is smooth and light, with plenty Stewed and vegetal, with hard, bitter tannins. flavors of California, it is soundly made, drinking of cocoa, mocha and coffee flavors around the This does not taste as if the grapes ripened suffi- well, fruit forward, and a good choice for warm light, pretty red fruits. Very creamy in the mouth, ciently, and the extraction is such that green, bit- weather sipping. —P.G. and ready to enjoy immediately. —P.G. ter tannins are the main flavor. —P.G. Amalie Robert 2007 Syrah Cliff Creek 2007 Merlot (Southern Agate Ridge 2007 Cascade Terrace 86 (Willamette Valley); $35. This is 85 Oregon); $19. Quite tannic and oaky, 80 Red (Rogue Valley); $17. A blend of cool-climate fruit, from a vintage the winery this rough and chewy Merlot is constructed five diverse red grapes, this lightly fruity quaffer describes as “the coolest year we have ever seen.” around a thin layer of cassis fruit. But the big fla- is almost invisible as far as flavor is concerned. It Nonetheless they have made a good wine, with vors are the dark, earthy ones—raw wood and hits the tongue and vanishes. —P.G. balanced scents and flavors. It’s definitely herbal, thick tannin. —P.G. but also brings some cured meat and tart, wild cherry flavors into play. —P.G. SYRAH PETITE SIRAH Cathedral Ridge 2007 Syrah Nuthatch Cellars 2006 Seven Hills 82 (Columbia Valley); $32. Sweaty and Folin Cellars 2008 Petite Sirah (Rogue Valley); $34. Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla); $35. pruney in the nose, this hot and disjointed wine 86 Young vines, the 92 could be almost any red grape; there’s no varietal first release from estate-grown fruit. The vanilla Meaty, juicy, textural and Rhône-ish, this lovely character. It’s volatile and thins out quickly, leaving flavors of the barrels are front and center at the Walla Walla wine captures the character that green tannins in the back of the mouth. —P.G. moment, though there are darker fruits in the eludes Syrahs from other West Coast AVAs. A background, along with smoke, licorice and a hint combination of cured meat, smoke, compost and of tar. Good long-term potential. —P.G. forest, with notes of dried seaweed and sea salt, MERLOT this is an explosion of fascinating flavors. —P.G. J. Scott Cellars 2008 Petite Sirah Kramer 2007 Merlot (Walla Walla); 86 (Rogue Valley); $23. This is a well- Cliff Creek 2005 Syrah (Southern 89 $28. Not sure which vineyard sourced balanced Petite Sirah, with chewy but propor- 88 Oregon); $25. Helped by extra bottle the grapes, but this is a flavorful, ready-to-drink tionate tannins, a broadly fruity, black cherry core age, this Syrah is the best of the latest releases bottle of wine. There is substantial evidence of and nuanced highlights of apricot. The finish does from Cliff Creek. Balanced and varietal, its spicy aging in expensive new oak barrels, with a lot of a quick fade. —P.G. berry fruit is highlighted with grapefruity pheno- coconut flavor over toast, chocolate and cherry. lics. Flavors penetrate and stand up well into a Tannins are soft and the fruit is round and lus- Agate Ridge 2007 Petite Sirah medium-long, balanced finish. —P.G. cious; except for a slight fall-off in the finish this 82 (Rogue Valley); $27. A grapey wine,

WineMag.com | 91 BUYING I GUIDE forward with light, pretty cherry candy flavors. It the nose carries suggestions of caraway, pepper with a soft, spicy character. It was barrel-aged in starts out well, then doesn’t build into anything, and rye. This is a light, tart, palate-refreshing red neutral oak. There is a good mix of stone fruit fla- but rather fades quickly into a watery, generic wine, with wild red berry flavors, a hint of earth vors, though some of the grapes may have been a red. —P.G. and a delicate balance. —P.G. little too ripe, and the wine’s finish reflects that, with just a hint of rot. —P.G. Melrose Vineyards 2008 Baco Noir 85 (Umpqua Valley); $26. There is a Coeur de Terre 2009 Rosé Rus- horsey, leathery scent as you first experience this 84 tique (Willamette Valley); $17. Just Stella Fino 2008 Luminoso San- wine. It penetrates into the mouth, a stand-off this side of dry, this is a blend of Pinot Noir, Syrah 86 giovese (Walla Walla); $15. This is against the sweet/tart boysenberry fruit. Suspect and Riesling, a bit grassy and diffuse. It’s not sure 100% Sangiovese, with a spicy, peppery herba- it will be a love it/hate it type of wine, depending what sort of a rosé it wants to be, nor is it easy to ceous quality. The fruit is very light, suggesting upon your appreciation of leather. —P.G. tell what to serve with it. Sour apple and straw- watermelon and wild strawberries. Simple and berry fruit with a bit of finishing sugar. —P.G. pleasant. —P.G. ROSÉ Springhouse Cellar 2008 Sangio- OREGON 84 plasty Sangiovese (Columbia Val- Cowhorn 2009 Grenache Rosé ley); $20. Exceedingly light fruit, more or less 89 (Applegate Valley); $18. From a bio- WHITE WINES invisible under the velvety coating of chocolaty dynamic producer, this exceptional rosé has sur- oak. The chocolate milk flavor and creamy texture prising depth of flavor. It’s a lovely, pale salmon, PINOT GRIS are lovely, but the wine needs more fruit support. and scented with rose petals and watermelon. But —P.G. it kicks in once swallowed, with fresh strawberry Ponzi 2009 Pinot Gris (Willamette fruit that penetrates and persists well into the lin- 90 Valley); $17. Strikingly spicy, with the gering finish, with backing minerality. Just 11.4% scents and flavors of Bosch pears, this textural, ZINFANDEL alcohol, and bone dry. —P.G. racy wine has a bit of refreshing effervescence as well. Subtle traces of citrus, pineapple and Asian Cathedral Ridge 2007 Reserve Abacela 2009 Rosé (Umpqua Val- pear are woven through, and the bracing acidity 85 Zinfandel (Columbia Valley); $38. 87 ley); $14. Almost cherry red, this sets it up well for richly sauced poultry or pasta Soft and approachable, with little evidence (in estate-grown Grenache rosé is quite dry, yet has dishes. —P.G. the mouth) of the 15.6% alcohol listed on the lovely fruit character that brings with it an label, this is a pleasant, rather generically fla- impression of fruit sweetness. Fresh and tangy, Vista Hills 2008 Flagler Estate vored red. Don’t look for California-style jam; with a mix of cranberry and cherry flavors, it’s a 90 Pinot Gris (Dundee Hills); $18. this is rather delicate, with strawberry and wild perfectly balanced wine that shows well when Another fine estate-grown Pinot Gris from Vista cherry fruit, light pepper, a hint of mint and light chilled down a bit. —P.G. Hills, with plenty of green apple and Bosch pear tannins. —P.G. fruit, along with some light cinnamon spice. Adelsheim 2009 Rosé of Pinot There is also a suggestion of flower in both the Cathedral Ridge 2007 Zinfandel 87 Noir (Willamette Valley); $19. nose and the mouth, but overall it’s a bigger wine 83 (Columbia Valley); $20. Very pale for Many Oregon wineries produce a rosé from Pinot than that, with the fruit front and center. —P.G. a Zin, this delivers more flavor than you might Noir, generally released in the spring for enjoy- expect. It’s very spicy and peppery, and the fruit ment over the ensuing warm weather months. Acrobat 2009 Pinot Gris (Oregon); has a strong herbal/rhubarb streak, but it’s firm Pinot makes a particularly light and elegant rosé, 89 $12. Even better than the excellent and shows some alcoholic heat (14.6% is the offi- bone dry, tart and citric. This one suggests wild 2008 Acrobat, this ups the alcohol to about 13% cial figure) as well. —P.G. strawberries and hints of rose petals. —P.G. and gives the impression of dryness, though there might be a trace of residual sugar. In any event, Viento 2009 Chukar Ridge Vine- it’s loaded with pretty pear fruit flavor, lightly OTHER RED WINES 86 yard Sangiovese Rosé (Columbia dusted with cinnamon spice, and fills the mouth Valley); $14. Bone dry, wonderfully fresh and with its body and gentle hint of spritz. A fine Abacela 2008 Dolcetto (Umpqua loaded with strawberry and watermelon flavors, summer sipper. Best Buy. —P.G. 87 Valley); $20. Harvested at 22.6 degrees hepped up with lightly peppery spice. In short, a brix, this bright and spicy Dolcetto does not reach perfect summer sipper, chilled and drunk with King Estate 2008 Domaine Pinot too far. It’s tart, with fruit flavors that suggest wild picnic foods, preferably outdoors. —P.G. 89 Gris (Oregon); $25. Lightly herbal, berries and pomegranate, and tannins that are scented with tart pear and tasting the same, this firm but never green. A fine quaffing wine. —P.G. Cathedral Ridge 2008 Rosé organically grown estate wine is King Estate’s best 85 (Columbia Valley); $15. A three- Pinot Gris. Their signature bottling sets a good Folin Cellars 2006 Tempranillo grape rosé, this blends Pinot Gris, Merlot and standard for the grape in Oregon; this elevates it 87 (Rogue Valley); $30. A spicy note in Syrah to make a mahogany/copper-colored wine with more detail, density and personality. The

92 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 alcohol is a sensible 13%, allowing subtle green barrels, this was fermented with native yeast and Château Bianca 2008 Wetzel fruit and herb grace notes to emerge. —P.G. given sur lie aging. It went through 100% malo- 82 Estate Pinot Gris (Willamette Val- lactic fermentation, which has softened the mid- ley); $12. Quite thin, as if over-cropped, turning LaVelle Vineyards 2008 Pinot Gris palate, a mix of lemon, grapefruit and Satsuma the fruit generic. Then it brings in a honey char- 89 (Willamette Valley); $18. A light, orange. There are still traces of phenolics bite, acter, as if it were botrytis-affected. But it is not a almost delicate wine, with pretty pear fruit and a but those citrus rind flavors have been well sweet or late harvest wine; it’s quite dry. —P.G. hint of sweetness. The balance is just right, and rounded also, though this carries some heat in the wine shows some added flair as it wraps into a the finish. —P.G. Château Bianca 2008 Pinot Gris finish that seems to gather strength while adding 80 (Willamette Valley); $12. A mix of floral and lightly honeyed highlights. —P.G. Coeur de Terre 2009 Pinot Gris disjointed impressions. Some floral notes collide with sour acids, then lead into a confected, can- (McMinnville); $17. Already showing Rex Hill 2009 Pinot Gris 88 died finish. —P.G. some tawny color, this is a drink-up-quickly bot- (Willamette Valley); $16. A beauti- 89 tle. Softly fruity, it also carries a hint of residual fully rendered, light and detailed Oregon Pinot sweetness, honeysuckle and Earl Grey tea. Right Gris, this is redolent of spring flowers and citrus now it is drinking nicely, with pear tart, brioche peel, flavored with an elegant blend of pineap- and a little honey and vanilla crème running ple, Asian pear, jicama and white pepper. Very Thistle 2009 Pinot Blanc (Dundee fresh and spicy. —P.G. through the finish. —P.G. 92 Hills); $16. This lively, spritzy Pinot Blanc, made from organically grown grapes, Evergreen Vineyards 2008 Pinot Seven Hills 2009 Pinot Gris (Ore- matches the previous vintage with lovely fruit— 89 gon); $16. A fragrant burst of pear 87 Gris (Oregon); $17. A solid, straight- golden apple, pink grapefruit and pickled water- blossom, citrus, melon and green apple aromas forward, all-purpose Pinot Gris, this offers firm melon. It freshens and lifts the palate as it moves lead into similar flavors. Elegant and spicy, this and spicy pear and apple fruit, some crisp pheno- into a finish that keeps the fruit while adding a nicely captures the fleshiness of Oregon Pinot lics giving it a racy edge, and a little bite to the strong vein of mineral and wet rock. —P.G. Gris. About 10% was finished in oak barrels, the back of the palate. It has the acidity to stand up to rest in stainless. —P.G. creamy pasta sauces or soft cheeses. —P.G. J. Scott Cellars 2008 Pinot Blanc 90 (Willamette Valley); $14. Dry, deli- Thistle 2009 Pinot Gris (Dundee Illahe 2009 Pinot Gris (Willamette cate, with a fine-tuned palate suggestive of a Ger- 89 Hills); $15. From organically grown 87 Valley); $13. Fresh and straightfor- man wine, this lovely Pinot Blanc mixes citrus and grapes, this is for acid lovers. Tart to the point of ward, this stainless steel-fermented Pinot Gris has pear in the body, and rolls into a graceful finish sour, with lemony fruit and a mouth-puckering simple, pleasant pear fruit flavors, and just a sug- with juicy acidity. The length and mouthfeel are presence, it rocks with goat cheeses, and cuts gestion of caramel running through it. Perfectly European; the fruit definitely New World. Best through cream sauces. Super penetration and suited for every day quaffing. —P.G. Buy. —P.G. length. —P.G. Spindrift Cellars 2009 Pinot Gris Spindrift Cellars 2009 Pinot Blanc A to Z Wineworks 2009 Pinot Gris 87 (Willamette Valley); $14. Whole 87 (Willamette Valley); $16. Soft and (Oregon); $12. 88 The current downturn cluster fermented in stainless steel, this is big and forward, with ripe and lightly oxidized flavors, this in demand for both grapes and expensive wines spicy, with a lovely textural impact. The aromas is a solid, ready-to-drink, fruity style. A full mid- only helps A to Z; there is more good fruit to pur- palate tastes of golden apples and hints at orange and flavors run to honeyed pears and very ripe chase, and plenty of demand at a $12 price point. liqueur in the finish. Drink up. —P.G. apples; the finish is resonant and surprisingly This new Pinot Gris is fresh and racy, with a min- mature for a 2009. Drink up. —P.G. eral-driven acidity underlying the clean fruit, tast- Torii Mor 2008 Pinot Blanc (Rogue ing of pears and pear skin. Best Buy. —P.G. Valley); $20. Lightly lemony, slightly Kramer 2008 Pinot Gris (Yamhill- 87 waxy in the nose, with interesting details of green Carlton District); $15. Easy-drinking Boedecker Cellars 2008 Old Vine 86 berries, yellow fruits and citrus oils, this wine and varietal, this displays fresh pear fruit cut with 88 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley); sneaks up on you. It’s lively and clean, with flavors $18. Old vine Pinot Gris? Sourced from the pineapple. It’s forward and juicy, a wine to drink much like a crisp, stainless steel-fermented Jacob Hart vineyard, it’s about 20 years old. chilled with picnic foods. —P.G. Chardonnay. —P.G. Lightly beery, yeasty, with Asian pear and but- tered apple providing the main flavor interest. Agate Ridge 2008 Pinot Gris This is an elegant, nicely balanced wine, with fruit 83 (Rogue Valley); $14. Light and and acid in perfect proportion. —P.G. lemony, this simple, tangy white wine has some pretty, fresh baked bread scents, but inviting as Abacela 2009 Blanco Dulce Viog- Coelho 2009 Renovação Pinot Gris they are, the wine feels acidic and one dimen- 94 nier (Umpqua Valley); $30. This 88 (Willamette Valley); $16. Fermented sional in the mouth. Lemon/lime is the prevailing late-harvest Viognier is so dense, so lush with aro- in a mix of stainless steel barrels and neutral oak flavor. —P.G. mas, that it defies description. Flowers, candied

WineMag.com | 93 BUYING I GUIDE fruits, caramel, vanilla, English breakfast tea, fruit flavors, some pineapple and stone, and a lick feels as if it is shut in a cocoon. Give it time (and even a bit of tobacco—this is one of those wines of spun sugar in the finish. —P.G. decanting) to unwrap, and it shows elegant tropi- that just keeps on going. Fascinating, rich, yet cal and stone fruits, caramel, vanilla cream and vibrant with excellent acidity, this is a wine that Agate Ridge 2008 Barrel Fer- butter flavors, backed with moderate acids. —P.G. any lover should experience. Edi- 83 mented Viognier (Rogue Valley); tors’ Choice. —P.G. $18. This has the sharp, citrus skin phenolics Stoller 2008 SV Estate Chardon- characteristic of many , but a rather soft 88 nay (Dundee Hills); $28. This is oily Abacela 2009 Viognier (Umpqua middle tastes like green bananas more than cit- and ripe, with plenty of butter, butterscotch and 91 Valley); $20. Abacela produces a rus. Those banana flavors roll into the finish, then toasty new oak. What elevates it, as with all dense, mineral-driven style of Viognier, vertically quickly fade. —P.G. Pacific Northwest Chardonnays, is the extra acid- layered with a mix of citrus skins and fruits, ity, that provides a foundation of support under notably grapefruit and pineapple. There’s even a the lush fruit and generous new oak. It might finishing kiss of honey, though the wine is quite CHARDONNAY smooth out a bit over the next couple of years, dry. A delight. —P.G. but it’s a wine built to be savored sooner rather Domaine Drouhin Oregon 2008 than later. —P.G. Illahe 2009 Viognier (Willamette 92 Arthur Chardonnay (Dundee 91 Valley); $15. Delightfully aromatic, this Hills); $38. A delicate, elegant style of Chardon- Willamette Valley Vineyards 2008 evocative, low-alcohol (12.5%) Viognier sends up nay, with Burgundian hints of stone and honey- 88 Dijon Clone Chardonnay pungent, piney aromas of citrus peel and flesh. A suckle, apple and citrus. The flavors gather in the (Willamette Valley); $20. Still young and mix of lemon, orange and grapefruit flavors, back of the throat and linger there, propped up pulling itself together, this barrel-fermented smooth and clean, roll into a seamless and satisfy- with juicy acidity and buttery barrel toast. A Chardonnay already has a soft, lush, appealing ing finish. Best Buy. —P.G. delightful bottle and perfectly balanced for poul- mouthfeel. Flavors build upon barrel toast, butter try or seafood. —P.G. and caramel, with clean green fruits and a hint of Folin Cellars 2008 Viognier (Rogue nut oil in the finish. —P.G. 90 Valley); $25. Estate-grown, vibrant, Ponzi 2007 Reserve Chardonnay and spicy, this southern Oregon Viognier opens 90 (Willamette Valley); $30. Drinking A to Z Wineworks 2008 Chardon- with a penetrating bouquet of flower, spice and this new Ponzi reserve right after it’s been 87 nay (Oregon); $15. Fruity and spritzy, citrus. The wine really comes alive in the mouth, released is not optimal; the supple and substantial this fragrant, screwcapped Chardonnay is scented with palate-pleasing flavors of lime, quinine and fruit needs more time to meld with the barrel fla- with apples, pears, a hint of grapefruit and spice. melon. You’d almost swear there was a nip of gin vors. Once the bananas and peaches, the crème It’s front-loaded, nicely balanced at 13% alcohol, in the mix. Delicious chilled. —P.G. brûlée and vanilla custard flavors all combine, this and best enjoyed lightly chilled. —P.G. will be anchored in hedonistic, lip-smacking, give- J. Scott Cellars 2008 Viognier me-another-glass country. —P.G. Boedecker Cellars 2008 Purity 90 (Rogue Valley); $18. Though it is 87 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley); listed at 14.2% alcohol, this is a pretty wine, with Rex Hill 2007 Reserve Chardonnay $20. This unusual Chardonnay is fermented and feminine grace rather than masculine muscle. 88 (Willamette Valley); $32. Underly- aged sur lie in 60 gallon stainless-steel barrels. Floral and fresh, it smells like fresh lemons and ing the tart fruit flavors of crisp apple and cucum- The pleasant mix of fruit includes cucumber, white peaches and flavors follow right along in ber are spicy, peppery highlights. At the moment, melon, jicama and apple, balanced and tart. The that same vein. Balanced and polished, it shows the new oak barrel flavors often found are not color, already a fairly deep gold, suggests that you exemplary winemaking skills on the part of evident, but wines go through interesting morphs drink it soon. —P.G. Jonathan Scott Oberlander. —P.G. along the aging curve. This one is just starting to soften up. Organically grown and limited to just Thistle 2008 Chardonnay (Dundee Melrose Vineyards 2009 Viognier 107 cases. —P.G. 87 Hills); $18. A deep straw, this unusual 90 (Umpqua Valley); $18. This new Chardonnay has a strong herbal component, with release from Melrose fills the mouth with flavor; Seven of Hearts 2008 Elvenglade penetrating seed and grass flavors wrapped it runs from orange blossom to Meyer lemon to 88 Vineyard Chardonnay (Yamhill- around tart, green apple fruit. It’s a little oxidized, candied pineapple, finally settling into a strong Carlton District); $24. This has the sort of tart, drinking well, but not for cellaring. —P.G. citrus/tropical blend of delicious fruit flavors. It lemon custard flavor you might find in a French seems to strike a perfect balance, staying lively pastry. It’s snappy and fresh, the fruit amplified Cathedral Ridge 2008 Chardonnay and well-defined, without becoming hot or bit- with toasty oak scents and accents. Still young and 86 (Columbia Valley); $22. The winery ter. —P.G. raw, it will profit from decanting and/or a couple mentions neutral oak barrels, though the immedi- more years in bottle. —P.G. ate aromatic impression is still on the toasty/oaky Springhouse Cellar 2008 Voulez- side. The fruit comes up more slowly, along with 87 Vous Viognier (Columbia Valley Stoller 2007 SV Estate Chardonnay residual CO2 that gives a spritzy mouthfeel. (OR)); $18. Juicy and fresh, this light and 88 (Dundee Hills); $28. From Dijon Yeasty, light and tart, with green apples the appealing Viognier shows crisp citrus and stone clones, this sculpted, tight, compact Chardonnay strongest fruit flavor. —P.G.

94 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 Oak Knoll 2008 Winemakers 25th Coeur de Terre 2009 Riesling berries. A nice finish suggests fresh-cut can- 85 Anniversary Chardonnay (Ore- 87 (Willamette Valley); $19. Made half taloupe. Best Buy. —P.G. gon); $19. A lightly tawny straw color, this is in stainless steel and half in neutral oak, this comes scented with grass and hay and smoked meat— from 34-year-old vines. It’s quite dry, with inter- Cliff Creek 2009 -Rous- unusual for a Chardonnay. Light apple-flavored esting nuances of sweet grass, clover and green 88 sanne (Southern Oregon); $22. fruit carries that same, strong smoked meat (and apple. The acids are borderline sour; try this with a Round and fruity, with a tasty mix of apples, slightly plastic) streak of flavor—unmissable and bit of prosciutto and a salty cheese. —P.G. peaches and citrus, this tastes like fruit, not bar- quite persistent. —P.G. rel, and would be an excellent choice if a hearty, Château Bianca 2008 Riesling non-oaky white wine is called for. There’s good Oak Knoll 2008 Winemakers 85 (Willamette Valley); $12. Thick in balance and length, with a resonant hint of miner- 83 Select Unoaked Chardonnay (Ore- the mouth, with sour lemon and barely ripe ality in the finish. —P.G. gon); $10. Light, tart, slightly green fruit fla- pineapple flavors, somewhat balanced against vors don’t add up to much. There is an undertone more delicate orange peel. The alcohol is 10%, Z’IVO 2008 Mika White Wine of old barrel or something not quite fresh. Simple yet despite the residual sugar the wine tastes 88 (Willamette Valley); $18. This is and plain. —P.G. quite tart. —P.G. one-third Pinot Gris, two-thirds Chardonnay, medium straw colored, with interesting scents of Cathedral Ridge 2008 McDuffee Château Bianca 2008 Wetzel beeswax, sweet hay and light toast. The fruit is 81 Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay 83 Estate Riesling (Willamette Val- delicate, a mix of apple and pear with a hint of (Columbia Valley); $36. Disjointed from the ley); $12. Very light, to the point of being cinnamon. But it lingers gracefully, leaving a start, this wine never pulls itself together. watery, with hints of citrus and tea. The finish lemony trail. —P.G. Cracker, oily fruit, overripe apples, and some leaves a sour aftertaste. —P.G. burn in the finish. —P.G. Agate Ridge 2008 Marsanne- 82 (Rogue Valley); $21. GRÜNER VELTLINER Not as fleshy as many examples of this southern RIESLING Rhône blend, this shows thin, generic fruit with Illahe 2009 Estate Grüner Veltliner no particular focus. —P.G. David Hill 2009 Estate Riesling 90 (Willamette Valley); $15. Why not 92 (Willamette Valley); $16. For any- an Oregon Grüner? With its nuanced aromas one seeking an American version of a fine Ger- trailing flint and smoke through a core of grape- OTHER WHITE WINES man Kabinett, David Hill’s Rieslings should be fruit, pineapple and melon, this is a welcome your first stop. Vintage after vintage this winery warm weather wine. Just 12.5% alcohol, a solid Abacela 2009 Albariño (Umpqua nails it. Flower, fruit, citrus, light lemony honey, midpalate and a hint of vanilla cookie in the lin- 90 Valley); $18. Estate-grown, this cap- Jonathan apple, Asian pear, it just goes on and on gering finish. Best Buy. —P.G. tures the racy minerality of the Spanish grape, in the mouth. At 12% alcohol, you might expect a while amping it up to New World fruit standards. sweeter wine, but the juicy acids keep it nice and Viento 2009 Underwood Mountain So you get a fruit-powered richness, with citrus dry through the finish. —P.G. 90 Vineyard Grüner Veltliner (Colum- and peach, along with lively acidity and a steely bia Gorge); $20. A rare wine in the Northwest. core. The new vintage marks a big step forward Cathedral Ridge 2008 Riesling It is a lightly floral, mineral-infused, vivid wine, for this variety at Abacela. —P.G. 88 (Columbia Valley); $18. An unusual with the white peppery character of the grape, and combination of flavors that are searingly tart and a mix of citrus fruit flavors somewhat reminiscent Adelsheim 2009 Ribbon Springs yet seem to have a sugary core, this is scented of New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs. Excellent pen- 89 Vineyard Auxerrois (Ribbon with honeysuckle and orange blossom, and opens etration and structure. —P.G. Ridge); $22. Auxerrois, a cross between Pinot out quickly into a fruitbowl of ripe, tangy flavors. Noir and Gouais Blanc, creates an aromatic, Apples, pears, oranges, candied lemons, even a lively, citrus and pear fruit-flavored white wine hint of papaya are all in the mix. But be ready for WHITE BLENDS with a delicious mix of fruit, spice and even a hint some tongue-tangling acidity. —P.G. of white chocolate. Fresh and more interesting Viento 2009 Allegre Vineyard than many Chardonnays, this is a sure-fire crowd- Penner-Ash 2008 Riesling 89 Verona White Blend (Columbia pleaser at any picnic or barbecue. —P.G. 88 (Willamette Valley); $18. A tongue- Gorge); $14. Winemaker Rich Cushman notes scraping, bone-dry style reminiscent of an Aus- that this is a “field blend” of Pinot Gris, Chardon- Springhouse Cellar 2008 Drawing tralian Riesling, this aromatic, juicy and lightly nay and Sauvignon Blanc from this vineyard’s sin- 85 A Blanc Sauvignon Blanc (Colum- effervescent wine tastes of citrus fruits and skins, gle bearing acre. It is a delightful wine, and the bia Gorge); $18. Young, yeasty, almost to the along with hints of grapefruit and cucumber. three grapes all contribute to the mixed scents of point of being beery, this thin Sauvignon Blanc There’s plenty of acidity to cut through rich grass, citrus and melon; and the fresh fruit fla- recalls a Vinho Verde. Cucumber and fennel fla- sauces. —P.G. vors that run to cool green and yellow fruits and vors dominate, along with plenty of acidity. —P.G.

WineMag.com | 95 BUYING I GUIDE

Château Bianca 2008 Wetzel Coeur d’Alene Cellars 2008 84 Estate Gewürztraminer 90 L’Artiste Viognier (Washington); CHARDONNAY (Willamette Valley); $15. The fruit has a bit $24. This is 100% Viognier, all stainless steel fer- of the floral/soapy character of the grape, but mented, with more guts and concentration than àMaurice 2007 Chardonnay lacks depth. It just floats away. —P.G. the creamier barrel-fermented Viognier from this 91 (Columbia Valley); $28. As with the winery. Lime and pineapple fruit flavors are brac- last vintage, this has been sourced from Lewis, Willard and Conner Lee vineyards. Scents of ing and clean, moving into light peach and tan- DESSERT WINE coconut and other tropical fruits lead into flavors gerine as they persist in the mouth. —P.G. hinting at banana cream, lime, white peach, and David Hill 2006 Port papaya. The finish brings in brioche, caramel and Lullaby 2008 Viognier (Walla (Willamette Valley); $28. This might medium toast. A yum-fest. —P.G. 87 Walla); $28. Pure Viognier from the be called banana Port, for a rich, banana flavor is 90 what dominates. Of course, with Muscat, you will Dwelley Vineyard, barrel-fermented, aged on the àMaurice 2006 Chardonnay also find tangerine and orange, like a tangy sauce lees in neutral oak. A light and elegant style, 90 (Columbia Valley); $28. Barrel fer- over the richer, creamier banana. You’ve got to creamy and loaded with Key lime fruit and tex- mented, soft and ripe with bright fruits, especially think—pair this with a banana split? Could be the ture along with nectarine and light tropical fruits. banana, but also pear, apricot, peach and citrus. dessert of the century! —P.G. Complex and lingering, with clarity and defini- Rich and creamy, it combines sweet barrel toast tion. —P.G. with a hint of honey. Lush through the finish, which adds caramel and cinnamon toast. —P.G. WASHINGTON Seven Hills 2009 Talcott Vineyard 90 Viognier (Columbia Valley); $20. Gordon Brothers 2008 Reserve VIOGNIER The smooth, silky, satiny nose erupts with layers 90 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley); of lemon, lime, tangerine and melon. The pretty, $23. Organically grown estate grapes lend cre- àMaurice 2008 Viognier (Columbia slightly waxy mouthfeel is not unctuous but has dence to the reserve designation. This is a gener- Valley); $25. Barrel fermented, pure ous wine, deftly matching its pineapple, citrus 92 good body, precise definition, and no jagged Viognier with a vibrant core of juicy, lemon/lime and peach flavors to sweet oak. Still young, so edges. The alcohol stays under 14%, and the fin- fruit. There’s pink grapefruit and sweet pineap- decant it or give it another year or two of bottle ish is round and persistent. —P.G. ple, all set against pleasing phenolics that provide age. —P.G. a firm framework. The mouthfeel is lush and the Coeur d’Alene Cellars 2008 Viog- finish clear and lightly mineral. —P.G. Patit Creek Cellars 2009 Chardon- nier (Washington); $20. 88 Creamy and 89 nay (Red Mountain); $19. From the àMaurice 2009 Sparrow Viognier smooth, this barrel-fermented Viognier has peach original Kiona vineyard planting in 1975, this big, 92 (Walla Walla); $33. The second vin- and citrus fruit, with grace notes of ginger and lush Chardonnay fills the palate with ripe banana tage from the estate vineyard, this is rich and nutmeg. There is even a hint of honey as it gath- and stone fruit flavors. It was barrel fermented, honeyed, scented with bee pollen, candle wax, ers strength in the back of the throat, with notice- then moved to stainless, and put through partial hints of pine needle. Meyer lemon, caramel, able alcohol also. —P.G. malolactic. Good definition, acidity, and a hint of honey and more coat the palate. Still very young, minerality. —P.G. but all the pieces are there. —P.G. Watermill 2008 Viognier (Colum- 88 bia Valley); $14. A quick sniff and Tamarack Cellars 2008 Chardon- àMaurice 2007 Viognier (Colum- you’re converted to this cool, refreshing white 89 nay (Columbia Valley); $18. Pressed 91 bia Valley); $25. Fine effort, lightly wine. The aromas carry the promise of citrus rind directly to barrel prior to fermentation, it’s dusty toasty, lightly buttery, still varietal with pleasing and sea salt; that tangy character livens up the and fragrant, capturing the higher acidity of the lime, orange marmalade and suggestions of cool fruit flavors also. Aged in stainless and neu- vintage, and some underlying minerality. This pineapple. Excellent mouthfeel and balance, with 2008 does not have the ripe peachiness of the tral oak, just enough to soften up the midpalate exceptional smoothness. —P.G. previous year, but the citrus/pineapple fruit while retaining its crisp definition. —P.G. makes an excellent food wine, stylish and afford- Ott & Murphy 2008 Viognier able. —P.G. Gamache Vintners 2008 Velida (Columbia Valley); $20. An interest- 91 Estate Viognier (Columbia Valley); ing debut from this new producer. The blend 87 Arbor Crest 2007 Connor Lee $18. includes 20% Roussanne, co-fermented in neu- Though the bottle says this hits 14.8% alco- 88 Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia tral French oak. It was aged sur lie and given hol, it does not have the weight and depth that Valley); $18. This is barrel fermented, and it’s monthly battonage, and no malolactic fermenta- you might expect from that number. The heat is for the consumer who loves the oakier style of tion. The wine is big, with juicy tropical fruit/bub- there, but the fruit is restrained, lightly herba- Chardonnay. This excellent vineyard has the fruit blegum flavors, skin phenolics, great texture and ceous, showing some mild lemon and tangerine concentration and acidity to stand up to the bar- baking spice highlights. Impressive. —P.G. flavors, and a lick of quinine. —P.G. rel flavors. —P.G.

96 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 Basel Cellars 2008 Chardonnay fruity, this runs through a spectrum from tart J. Bookwalter 2009 Anecdote 88 (Columbia Valley); $24. Soft, creamy lemon to ripe pineapple to hints of something 91 Riesling (Columbia Valley); $15. and buttery, this will surely please those who like riper and sweeter, like banana or papaya. A good This is an interesting style, with good density and a banana cream pie style of Chardonnay. There’s alternative to Chardonnay for those who favor about 1% residual sugar. The sweetness does not peaches in there too, and papaya—a lot of ripe fruit over oak. Best Buy. —P.G. show; this is almost dry, with compact fruit flavors fruit, nicely matched to the oak flavors. Drink of lemon, orange, candied pineapple, hints of now. —P.G. Buried Cane 2008 Pinot Grigio pear and a firm thread through the middle that 87 (Washington); $15. Light and juicy, gives it some phenolic bite. Drink chilled and it Coeur d’Alene Cellars 2008 with fresh apple flavors and good acidity. A good will stand up well to firm seafood such as halibut. Chardonnay (Washington); $20. 87 wine for serving chilled and enjoying outdoors. —P.G. Smooth and fruity, this shows the banana/tropical —P.G. side of the grape, enlivened by some brighter Seven Hills 2009 Riesling (Colum- bia Valley); $14. Washington acidity. It’s creamy and carries a Milbrandt 2008 Traditions Pinot 91 One of the most streak of vanilla into the finish. —P.G. underrated Rieslings from Washington, Seven Gris (Columbia Valley); $13. Lightly 87 Hills always delivers the goods. This is off-dry but spritzy, sharp and focused, this Pinot Gris brings Duck Pond 2008 Desert Wind drinks as dry. Bonus: the alcohol is around 11%. in apples and pears, fruit skin and wet stone. It’s Vineyard Chardonnay (Wahluke Wonderfully fragrant and stony, it seems dusted 87 nicely balanced and ready for food. —P.G. Slope); $15. A very pleasant offering from with lemon and honey, tea and a hint of orange Duck Pond, this is lightly toasty, moderately marmalade. In the mouth it turns rich and sub- fruity, broad on the palate, with a gentle mix of stantial, yet the floral highlights remain. Best pear and apple flavors. Smooth and drinking at its RIESLING Buy. —P.G. peak. —P.G. Dunham Cellars 2008 Lewis Estate Tempus Cellars 2009 Evergreen Six Prong 2007 Chardonnay (Horse 93 Vineyard Riesling (Columbia Val- 91 Vineyard Riesling (Columbia Val- 87 Heaven Hills); $11. Firm and fresh, ley); $22. You will find great concentration in ley); $16. An impressive first Riesling from this puts pear and apple fruit front and center. this fruit, a beguiling play of citrus, grapefruit, Tempus Cellars, using grapes from one of Wash- There are some skin flavors also, lending a bit of peach, apricot and light tropical. It’s infused with ington’s premier Riesling vineyards. Refreshing phenolic bite to the finish. Best Buy. —P.G. a resinous streak that complements the fruit and and lively, loaded with citrus, green apple and lifts the midpalate. Sugars and acids are in perfect light pineapple fruit flavors, this warm-weather Three Rivers 2008 Chardonnay counterpoint—it’s close to dry but with such rich- sipping wine is quite bracing, with residual sugar 87 (Columbia Valley); $19. Very soft, it ness that it could take on spicy Asian fare. Edi- just over 1% and alcohol at a moderate 11.8% — feels like the vinous equivalent of a creampuff. tors’ Choice. —P.G. P.G. The fruit is lightly tropical, with notes of caramel and banana, cut through with a streak of citrus Gamache Vintners 2008 Estate Zero One Vintners 2008 Golden and apple. —P.G. 92 Riesling (Columbia Valley); $18. 91 Delicious Riesling (Columbia Val- This ripe and rich Riesling continues a string of ley); $16. Sourced from Gamache vineyard DaMa 2009 Chardonnay (Colum- successes with this grape from Gamache Vint- grapes, this is a fine follow-up to Zero One’s 86 bia Valley); $21. A full, fruity, slightly ners. The alcohol is just 12.5%, and the wine has debut vintage. It’s packed with fruit flavors, run- hot Chardonnay. The barrel aging—all French, some light sweetness, but what stands out best is ning the gamut from Meyer lemon to candied 60% new—brings the expected toastiness. This papaya. The natural acidity keeps it all in balance the succulent mix of tropical fruits. Big and plush is a solidly made, fruit-forward style, immediately and perfectly counterpoints the residual sugar, flavors of banana, papaya, guava and pineapple ready for drinking. —P.G. pegged at 2.1%. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. come through, yet the wine retains its balance Torii Mor 2008 Chardonnay and detail. —P.G. Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Ries- (Washington-Oregon); $18. Essen- ling (Columbia Valley); $9. Lovely 84 Arbor Crest 2009 Dionysus Vine- 88 tially a Washington Chardonnay (with just 6% of aromas pour from the glass, a heady mix of lime, yard Riesling (Columbia Valley); the fruit sourced in Oregon), this is sharp-toned 91 Asian pear, cucumber and apple. In the mouth $8. and slightly volatile in the nose. It falls a little flat This is fruit sourced from a 1972 planting— some sweet honey pours over the crisp fruit, and in the mouth, tasting like a soft banana, and fades single-vineyard, old-vine Riesling at an amazing the wine feels lush and perfectly melded, despite quickly. —P.G. price. Done in a big, round, fruity, off-dry style, its youth. Residual sugar is under 2% and the it’s loaded with sweet pineapple, Meyer lemon alcohol just 12%. Best Buy. —P.G. and honey peach flavors. The fruit concentration PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO is spectacular, and yet the wine retains enough Kana 2008 Katie Mae White Table acidity to feel balanced against the 3.5% residual 88 Wine Riesling (Columbia Valley); Waterbrook 2008 Pinot Gris sugar. Serve with hot and spicy Asian fare, or with $14. Though labeled simply White Table Wine, 88 (Columbia Valley); $13. Bold and a peach cobbler for dessert. Best Buy. —P.G. this is all Riesling, done in an off-dry (3.1% resid-

WineMag.com | 97 BUYING I GUIDE ual sugar) style. The fruit is a powerful burst of J. Scott Cellars 2008 Roussanne apricot and peach, annotated with honey and 88 (Columbia Valley); $18. Most likely OTHER WHITE WINES caramel apples. It’s sweet enough to have a little sourced from Washington grapes, this is plump brown sugar-style graininess as well; could work and pleasing, peachy and polished. Ripe, round Francis Tannahill 2007 Dragonfly with some desserts but also with spicy foods if fruit flavors roll into a bright, slightly hot finish. 90 Gewürztraminer (Washington); the wine is well chilled. —P.G. Peach skin phenolics linger in the mouth, putting $25. Unctuous, floral and perfumed, this Wash- a fine edge on the flavors and setting up the ington-sourced Gewürztraminer is bold and Patit Creek Cellars 2009 Sagemoor palate for the next sip. —P.G. fruity, lush and mouthfilling. It spreads out grace- 88 Vineyards Riesling (Columbia Val- fully and fully across the palate, coating the ley); $16. Give this wine some airing out to let SuLei Cellars 2009 Roussanne tongue with a honeyed mix of citrus and tropical the SO2 blow off, and it will reward you with a 85 (Walla Walla); $18. Celery and raw fruits, spiced up with a hint of garlic chive. Dense pleasant mix of orange peel, sweet citrus and hon- wood in the nose, then some light, green fruits and concentrated, this is sure to appeal to those eydew fruit. The residual sugar is 1.35%, but it come into play in the mouth. As it breathes open who love this grape. —P.G. feels a bit sugary in the mouth—definitely in the there are floral overtones and a hint of honey—a off-dry camp. Some of the fruit is from a 1973 glimmer of varietal character. —P.G. Cadaretta 2009 sbs Sauvignon Sagemoor block, among the oldest Riesling in 88 Blanc-Semillon (Columbia Valley); Washington. —P.G. $23. An Aussie-style blend of 78% Sauvignon WHITE BLENDS Blanc and 22% Sémillon. It’s been a real success Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Har- for Cadaretta, and this is in the same mold as pre- vest Select Riesling (Columbia Val- 87 Kana 2008 Masterpiece Elephant vious efforts. Tasted just prior to release, it was ley); $9. A new offering from the country’s 90 Mountain Vineyard Reserve loaded with crisp, primary fruit flavors of green largest producer of Rieslings, this fits an emerg- (Yakima Valley); $20. Impressive. This Viog- apple, melon and grapefruit. Nice texture, and ing off-dry category, with 11% alcohol and 4.7% nier/Marsanne/Roussanne blend showcases sub- just a hint of barrel toast too. —P.G. residual sugar. It’s a slightly sweeter companion to stantial, layered fruit flavors of citrus skin, citrus the winery’s popular Columbia Valley bottling, pulp, grapefruit and white peach. The Viognier Shooting Star 2007 Aligoté with more of the honey and tea, less of the cool was done in stainless, the other grapes in barrel, (Washington); $13. This unique wine, fruit flavors. Best Buy. —P.G. 87 bringing in subtle notes of vanilla. Spicy, full-bod- made in California by Jed Steele, is sourced from ied and just plain delicious. —P.G. Columbia 2008 Cellarmaster’s Washington’s only planting of Aligoté. Bright and Riesling (Columbia Valley); $12. spicy, it’s anchored with solid apple/pear fruit fla- 85 Z’IVO 2007 Three White Wine vors and zippy acidity. —P.G. Nicely perfumed with a musky/grapey scent, this White Blend (Washington-Ore- low alcohol (10.4%) sweet Riesling is pleasant 89 gon); $18. An unusual mix of Melon (from and clean, but a bit attenuated. It has plenty of Eyrie) and Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc sugary honey and some simple canned peach OTHER RED WINES (from Washington’s Lonesome Springs vineyard). fruit, but stops there. —P.G. All grapes were barrel-fermented, and the blend Shooting Star 2007 Blue Franc Covey Run 2008 Reserve Late Har- works nicely. This wine has a supple, creamy 85 Blaufränkisch (Washington); $13. 85 vest Riesling (Columbia Valley); mouthfeel, wrapping its citrus, pineapple and This opens with lots of spice, tart and light red $12. Despite the reserve and late harvest desig- Meyer lemon fruit in buttery toast, all nicely bal- fruits and some strongly herbal tannins. There is a nations, this fits in more comfortably with a stan- anced. —P.G. big wash of sweet baking spice, source unknown, dard, off-dry Washington Riesling. The 4% that offsets the stemmy and herbal quality of the residual sugar is muted by good acidity and firm Waterbrook 2008 Mélange Blanc fruit. —P.G. pear and peach fruit. There’s some phenolic bite 86 (Columbia Valley); $15. Off-dry with in the finish, and a hint of plastic. —P.G. a candied orange character, this is indeed a mélange, including portions of seven different IDAHO white wine grapes. It’s an interesting wine, ROUSSANNE though might prove a bit challenging to match to RIESLING food. Perhaps a curry? —P.G. Maison Bleue 2008 La Vie Douce Ste. Chapelle 2008 Dry Riesling 91 Roussanne (Horse Heaven Hills); Kontos Cellars 2009 LeeVeLooLee 88 ( Valley); $8. Ste. $20. Here is an off-dry Roussanne absolutely 83 Gossamer (Columbia Valley); $22. Chapelle pioneered modern-era in bursting with delicious flavors of Meyer lemon, This is two thirds Chardonnay and the rest a Idaho, and for many years Riesling was the win- breakfast tea, yellow tropical fruits and hints of Viognier/Roussanne blend. There is something a ery’s main calling card. This new release, from papaya. It’s all set against vibrant natural acidity little off-putting in the aromas, a hint of volatility the newly minted Snake River Valley AVA, show- that keeps it food-friendly rather than limiting it and sweatiness. In the mouth it is a simple, cases many of the region’s strengths—delicate to dessert. —P.G. generic dry white. —P.G. detail, honeysuckle and citrus blossom aromas

98 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 mixed with citrus rind flavors, and a pleasing min- tannins. Should be cellared for a good 3–5 years. with a youthful impertinence. Best to give it 3–5 erality. Best Buy. —P.G. Cellar Selection. —S.H. years to come around. Cellar Selection. —S.H.

Ste. Chapelle 2008 Special Harvest Dragonette 2008 Fiddlestix Vine- Dragonette 2008 Cargasacchi- 88 Riesling (Snake River Valley); $10. 92 yard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); 90 Jalama Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); Lovely natural acidity keeps this sweet wine light $45. A first-class Pinot from this great vineyard, $38. Delicious and exotic, with raspberry, cherry, on its feet, underscoring the honeyed pear fruit in the heart of the southern Santa Rita Hills. The Mandarin orange, date, cinnamon spice and flavors with grapefruit and a hint of minerality. wine is dry and silky and super-complex, offering sweet oak flavors that are deep and long on the For a wine in this price range, with 11,000 case waves of raspberry tart, cherry pie, cola, sweet oak finish. Amazing that the alcohol is so low for the production levels, it’s a marvelous achievement. and dusty Asian spice flavors. For all the richness, ripeness. Could be brisker in acidity, as it feels Best Buy. —P.G. it’s dry and crisp in acidity. Now–2014. —S.H. somewhat melted, which limits ageability, but it’s a beauty now with lamb chops. —S.H. Longoria 2008 Rancho Santa Rosa CALIFORNIA 92 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Fess Parker 2008 Ashley’s Pinot Hills); $45. A big, bold, intense, nervy Pinot 90 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $50. Young RED WINES Noir that needs time in the cellar to settle down. now, with unintegrated oak, acidity and fruit. The Notable for the power of fruit, offering a blast of parts want to come together, but need time. PINOT NOIR cherries, red currants, red licorice and pomegran- Really potent in cherry, currant, orange zest, ates, while oak adds sweet, smoky toastiness. A licorice, Indian spice and sandalwood flavors that Freeman 2008 Keefer Ranch Pinot success of the vintage. Give it until mid-2011 to finish dry and intense. Give it until mid-2011. come around. —S.H. 96 Noir (Russian River Valley); $47. So Cellar Selection. —S.H. pale in color, it’s hard to believe it packs so much Longoria 2008 Bien Nacido Vine- flavor. Stuns with the complexity of its cherries, Longoria 2008 Lovely Rita Pinot yard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Val- raspberries and cola, with fantastically spicy 92 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $32. This is a ley); $45. Quite a good Pinot Noir, but it needs 90 notes. Hard to describe just how intricate it feels, blend of various vineyards Longoria accesses, and some time to evolve beyond its youthful gawki- changing by the second as the palate uncovers compared to his more expensive bottlings, it’s a ness. Bone dry and fairly tannic, it’s marked by additional nuances. The vineyard, which is in good value. Dry and silky, it has complex flavors notable acidity. The flavors are complex, ranging Green Valley, is coveted among Pinot Noir wine- of cherries, red currants, pomegranates, cola, from cherries and tangerine zest to cola, pome- makers. A very great Pinot Noir, defining silki- Indian spices and sandalwood. Drink now. —S.H. granate and smoky sandalwood. Hold until after ness and delicacy, and should age effortlessly for 2011. Cellar Selection. —S.H. at least the next six years. —S.H. Siduri 2008 Keefer Ranch Vine- yard Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- Kendric 2007 Pinot Noir (Marin 90 Baxter 2007 Run Dog Vineyard ley); $48. Rather tannic and dense now, with an County); $34. Kendric’s best Pinot yet, Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley); $45. 91 astringent mouthfeel, and the fruit hasn’t yet 94 from this magnificent vintage. Strikes a fine bal- An exotic Pinot of a type usually limited to Ander- ance between lushness of raspberry fruit and a married the oak. Give it until 2011 to let the rasp- son Valley. It’s marked as much by gamy, mush- stony crispness that pulls back tantalizingly into berries, cherries, orange peel and cola find the room and forest floor notes as by raspberries, dryness and minerality, then returns to spicy rich- vanilla char from wood. —S.H. cherries and red currants, with notes of licorice ness on the finish. It will be interesting to watch Sojourn 2008 Gap’s Crown Vine- and pepper. Drily crisp and elegantly con- this wine evolve over the next 4–8 years. —S.H. structed, this complex young wine should develop 90 yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); for 4–6 years. —S.H. Roadhouse Winery 2008 Pinot Noir $48. A beautiful Pinot Noir notable for the 91 (Russian River Valley); $49. A nice, purity of its structure. Shows really polished tan- Baxter 2007 Toulouse Vineyard silky and tasty Pinot Noir. It’s dry and crisp, with nins and crisp coastal acidity, as well as a fine 93 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley); $45. cherry and raspberry purée flavors accented with coating of smoky oak. It all frames flavors of cher- A very rich Pinot Noir, filled with delicious cinnamon, cocoa and smoky sandalwood. Ready ries and raspberries. Could be a little more con- cherry, raspberry, cedar and spice flavors, as well now and soon for its youthful appeal. —S.H. centrated, but it’s a pretty wine. —S.H. as an umami bacon smokiness. Balanced with crisp acidity and very fine tannins. Beautiful now Three Sticks 2007 Durell Vineyard Sierra Madre 2008 Sierra Madre and through 2013. —S.H. 91 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $55. 89 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Caramelized oak dominates this Pinot Noir. Valley); $40. An enormously fruity wine whose Baxter 2007 Oppenlander Vine- Below that toasty char is an extremely ripe wine main appeal is its vast array of flavor. Cherries, 93 yard Pinot Noir (Mendocino); $60. that seems to define long hangtime. The cherry raspberries, red currants, licorice, Dr. Pepper A fresh, vibrant but tight young Pinot Noir. It’s flavors approach red currants and have sugges- cola and milk chocolate flood the mouth, offset rich in wild raspberry, cherry and cola flavors, tions of shriveled berries that veer into licorice by crisp acidity and accented with sweet oak. Best enhanced with spicy oak, and firm in acidity and and grilled fruit. It’s quite complex, but juvenile, now for its soft deliciousness. —S.H.

WineMag.com | 99 BUYING I GUIDE

Sojourn 2008 Sangiacomo Vine- gest tart cherries with the skins, peppery spices Sierra Madre 2008 Block 216 89 yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); and a touch of cedar. Drink now. —S.H. 87 Clone 5 Pommard Pinot Noir $48. Good and complex in cherry, raspberry, (Santa Maria Valley); $48. Rich in cherries, orange zest and vanilla oak flavors that finish Siduri 2008 Amber Ridge Vineyard raspberries, licorice, cola and sandalwood, this deep and long in a dusty swirl of Indian spices. A 88 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); Pinot finishes dry and spicy. It has a lovely, silky very nice Pinot Noir, although it’s pretty sharp in $45. A flavorful, well-made Pinot for drinking mouthfeel, yet is quite sharp in acidity, and a bit zingy acidity. Give it a few hours of decanting now. Has a nice, silky texture, with brisk acidity one-dimensional. Best now. —S.H. before serving. —S.H. framing savory raspberries, cherries, cola, vanilla and exotic sandalwood. —S.H. Six Sigma 2007 Christian’s Vine- Beauregard 2007 Bald Mountain 87 yard Pinot Noir (Lake County); 88 Vineyard Estate Grown Pinot Noir Sojourn 2008 Pinot Noir (Sonoma $45. Dark fruits characterize this young, vigorous (Ben Lomond Mountain); $45. A good Pinot 88 Coast); $39. A very nice Pinot Noir wine. Black cherries, blackberries, even dark Noir, dry and silky, with quite a bit of acidity that’s likeable for its silky texture, crisp acidity chocolate flood the palate, delicious and spicy. brightening the flavors. They include ripe black and cherry, raspberry and Dr. Pepper cola flavors, Yet there’s a tannic, acidic tightness that makes cherries, cola, anise and sandalwood. Feels a bit with a long, spicy finish. Seems at its best now, so the mouthfeel tough and gritty. One of the better tight, and could benefit from 1–2 years in the cel- drink up. —S.H. Lake County Pinots out there, but work needs to lar. —S.H. be done. —S.H. Babcock 2008 Grand Cuvee Pinot Fess Parker 2008 Clone 115 Pinot Sojourn 2008 Rodgers Creek Vine- Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $40. Elegant Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $55. 87 yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); 88 This is a structure on this wine, with a graceful silkiness, 87 $48. big, dense Pinot Noir, and quite a good one, although it’s a bit lacking in concentration, espe- High in acidity, with a nice silky texture and although it’s a bit sharp in acidity. Really packs in bone dry. It’s a very good wine, but despite some cially at this price. Shows jammy cherry, rasp- the black cherry and oak flavors, with a long, red modest cherry, raspberry and licorice flavors, it berry and spice flavors, with a coating of smoky licorice finish, but it’s immature, and needs time lacks richness, particularly at this price. —S.H. oak. —S.H. to come together. Give it 2–3 years. —S.H. Clos La Chance 2007 Biagini Vine- Fess Parker 2008 Pommard Clone Fess Parker 2008 Bien Nacido yard Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Moun- Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $55. A 86 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Bar- 87 tains); $50. Tart, with an acidic mouthfeel that 88 lovely Pinot Noir for drinking now. Could be a bara County); $50. A big, rich, exuberant intrudes on the ripe cherry, red currant and cola bit more intense, and finishes rather quickly, but Pinot Noir. Floods the mouth with cherry pie, flavors. Could be a bit more mellow. May develop in between is a nice, dry, silky wine, with soft, raspberry tart, vanilla and sweet oak flavors that for a few years, but that sharpness isn’t likely to intricate cherry, cola, spice and sandalwood fla- are frankly delicious. It’s a bit one-dimensional, go away. —S.H. vors. —S.H. but clean and crisp. Best now. —S.H. CRU Winery 2008 Appellations Molnar Family 2008 Poseidon’s Pali 2008 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Series Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Val- Vineyard Pinot Noir (Carneros); 86 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $44. You’ll find 87 ley); $35. Made in an exaggerated tutti-fruity 88 $30. lovely, complex flavors of raspberries, cherries, You’ll find some tart acidity in this dry Pinot style, with candied raspberry and mocha flavors. red currants, spices and smoky vanilla notes from Noir, which comes from the Napa side of The mouthfeel is nicely silky, with a brisk flourish oak in this dry, pleasant wine. It’s also very tart, Carneros. The tartness gives it a noticeable bite, of acidity. Drink now. —S.H. biting into the palate with a cut of acidity, which but the flavors are very rich. They suggest cher- seems to be a trait of the vintage. Good now, if a ries and raspberries, with notable contributions CRU Winery 2008 Appellations little direct. —S.H. from oak. Ready now. —S.H. 86 Series Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands); $30. A super-fruity, direct Pinot, Roadhouse Winery 2008 Pinot Siduri 2008 Sonatera Vineyard rather one-dimensional in cherry, raspberry and 88 Noir (Sonoma Coast); $44. A solid 87 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $45. A mocha flavors. Dry and crisp, with a silky texture, coastal Pinot. Shows lots of typicity in the dry- bit heavy and dense in raspberry and cola fruit, it’s a good wine to drink now. —S.H. ness, crisp acidity and earthy, mushroomy flavors with a curiously soft mouthfeel, yet there seems of cherries, and the way the tannins scour the to be good acidity as you swallow. Could just be CRU Winery 2008 Vineyard Mon- palate. Drinks a bit hard now. Give it a year or unresolved now. Give it a year or two to come 86 tage Pinot Noir (Central Coast); two in the cellar. —S.H. around. —S.H. $24. A serviceable Pinot Noir, rich in fruity rasp- berries and cherries, with a touch of sweet oak. Roadhouse Winery 2008 Pinot Noir Siduri 2008 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Easy to drink with roast salmon, grilled sausages, 88 (Santa Lucia Highlands); $47. A very 87 Hills); $30. A rich, candied Pinot Noir, or a nice, plump ham. —S.H. dry Pinot Noir, notable more for its clean elegance filled with raspberry, cherry and mocha flavors. than opulence. Feels really sleek and crisp in the It’s a bit simple, but deliciously so, with a crisply Cuvaison 2008 Pinot Noir mouth, almost like a white wine. The flavors sug- silky texture. —S.H. 86 (Carneros); $33. This winery’s basic

100 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 Pinot has had a mixed record over the years. The leather, cola and cherry flavors as well as crisp nins. Better after 2013, and should develop for ’08 is dry and silky, but not particularly interesting acidity. Clean and uncomplicated, it’s a decent many years after that. Cellar Selection. —S.H. at this price. It has gentle cherry, raspberry, cola, wine for drinking now with a salmon salad sand- spice and oak flavors, offset by crisp acids. Drink wich. —S.H. Ghost Block 2007 Single Vineyard now. —S.H. 95 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yountville); Redtree 2009 Pinot Noir (Califor- $100. A terrific Cabernet you want to cellar for a Pali 2008 Summit Pinot Noir (Cen- 84 nia); $8. Good price for an everyday good 5–6 years, at the very least, and could go far 86 tral Coast); $29. This is a blend from Pinot Noir. It’s not particularly complex, but longer. Shows what Yountville can do in a good Monterey and Santa Barbara counties. It’s a dry, shows a nice, silky texture, with good acidity and year. The wine is very dry and more minerally crisp, useful Pinot Noir. Fifty percent new firm dryness. The flavors are of cherries and oak. than further north, yet is extraordinarily rich in French oak gives a smoky, charry overlay to the Best Buy. —S.H. blackberries, chocolate-covered cherries and cas- cherry, red currant and licorice flavors. —S.H. sis, with a perfumed scent of violets. The mouth- Flock by Smoking Loon 2008 Flock feel is all velvet and satin—so pretty and refined. Pali 2008 Durell Vineyard Pinot 83 Pinot Noir (Monterey); $15. A Cellar Selection. —S.H. 86 Noir (Sonoma Coast); $44. Smells decent Pinot with lots of upfront fruit, if a bit soft and tastes overoaked, with toothpicky vanilla and and short on the finish. Shows candied raspber- Robert Mondavi 2007 Reserve smoky char notes. The amount of new French ries, cherries and spices. —S.H. 95 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- wood was 50%. The jammy raspberry, cherry and ley); $135. Bone dry and utterly balanced, with currant fruit just isn’t intense or complex enough Concannon 2008 Reserve Pinot deeply powerful, long-lasting flavors of blackber- to support all that weight. Drink now. —S.H. 82 Noir (San Luis Obispo County); ries and black currants and an intense, but inte- $30. Bone dry and vegetal, with high acidity. grated, coating of smoky oak. But it’s also very Sonoma-Cutrer 2007 Pinot Noir Saved, just barely, by some good cherry and oak tannic. Nothing soft about this wine. As fine a 86 (Russian River Valley); $40. Minty flavors. —S.H. cellar candidate as any Mondavi Reserve in years. and sharp in acidity, and not offering much rich- Should develop for 12, 15, even 20 years. Cellar ness now, especially at this price, although it does Copeland Creek 2005 Pinot Noir Selection. —S.H. feel stylishly dry and elegant. Shows proper 82 (Sonoma Coast); $30. Acidic to the cherry, cola and sandalwood flavors. —S.H. point of sour, with a Lifesaver candy raspberry Trinchero 2007 Cloud’s Nest Vine- flavor. At least it’s dry. —S.H. 95 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount Hahn 2008 Pinot Noir (Monterey); Veeder); $50. A lovely Cabernet, brimming 85 $12. A sound Pinot Noir that’s dry and Darcie Kent Vineyards 2007 West with complex blackberry, cherry, mineral, tobacco silky. Shows gentle, jammy flavors of cherries, 82 Pinnacles Vineyard Pinot Noir and cedar flavors that impress for their sheer raspberries and sandalwood. Easy to like with (Monterey County); $30. Not quite ripe, with power. Shows the firm, hard tannins this moun- grilled salmon, ham, sausage fritatta. —S.H. green, vegetal notes suggesting asparagus. This tain always lends Cabs, but they’re so finely was a cool vintage, and the wine is from a cool ground, the wine is drinkable now with a good Pali 2008 Keefer Ranch Vineyard area. —S.H. decanting. Should age well for a decade. Editors’ 85 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); Choice. —S.H. $44. Too acidic and tart in wintergreen flavors, a Smoking Loon 2008 Pinot Noir real disappointment from this well-regarded vine- 82 (California); $8. Pretty harsh and Chappellet 2007 Signature Caber- yard. On the plus side, it’s bone dry and silky, and unrewarding, even for this price. It’s soft and sim- 94 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $42. shows cherry and cola flavors accented with ple, with Lifesaver raspberry flavors. —S.H. This is the winery’s basic Cabernet, but there’s sweet, smoky oak. Ready to drink now. —S.H. nothing common about it. It’s dry and complex and moderately ageworthy, a hillside Cabernet Aquinas 2008 Pinot Noir (Napa CABERNET SAUVIGNON that revels in its plush, firm tannins and ripe fruit. 84 Valley); $15. Not a whole lot going on There’s a minerality that seems to come from the in this Pinot. It’s thin in cherry and cola flavors, Chappellet 2007 Pritchard Hill soil, with expressive blackberry, currant, choco- with a touch of oak. On the plus side is a nice, 96 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- late and anise flavors. Really fine now after a silky dryness. —S.H. ley); $135. This is a monster Cabernet, in the decant, and should develop through this decade. best sense. Comprised of all five Bordeaux vari- —S.H. Carmel Road 2008 Pinot Noir eties, it’s bone dry, enormously complex and 84 (Monterey); $20. Soft and semisweet, firmly masculine, with very big, hard tannins. Silverado 2006 Solo Cabernet with jammy raspberry flavors sprinkled with Concentration on the flavors shows layers of 94 Sauvignon (Stags Leap District); sugar. The texture is nice and silky. —S.H. blackberries, black currants, blueberries, mocha, $90. Not ready to open now, it’s just too tannic, violets, sweet charred oak and a firm grounding although the flavors are so ripe and lush, they Concannon 2008 Limited Release of minerals. An outstanding wine from the erupt right through the numbing astringency. 84 Pinot Noir (Central Coast); $15. Pritchard Hill region east of the Silverado Trail, Floods the mouth with ripe red stone fruits, Shows a drier, leaner side of Pinot Noir, with but one that needs cellar time to resolve the tan- berries and currants, as well as earthier notes of

WineMag.com | 101 BUYING I GUIDE herbs, carob and minerals. The oak is strongly drier and leaner than anything in Napa, but quite Trinchero 2007 Central Park West sensed, but entirely in keeping with the wine’s elegant and intense in blackberries, black currants 90 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (St. volume. Cellar this very fine wine until at least and dried herbs. It’s a worthy successor to the very Helena); $35. Nice and dry, with firm, hard tan- 2012, and it should develop for many years there- fine 2005. The alcohol is 15.1%. —S.H. nins and rich flavors of blackberries, cherries and after. Cellar Selection. —S.H. dark chocolate. The oak is pretty strong, offering Tor Kenward 2007 Cimarossa a coating of caramel. Shows a full-bodied, mascu- Cuvaison 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- 92 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon line Cabernet character that needs a good decant 93 gnon (Mount Veeder); $39. A beau- (Howell Mountain); $75. A very boldly fla- to aerate the tannins. Should age though 2013, at tiful Cabernet, whose mountain origins show in vored and distinguished wine, although it’s also least. —S.H. the firm tannins and concentrated blackberry very tannic. Shows the intensely concentrated fla- and black currant fruit. Notes of minerals and Wild Oak by St. Francis 2007 vors of mountain Napa Cabernet, flooding the violets complicate things, as does rich oak. Very Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma palate with blackberries and black currants, and 90 fine and delicious, but obviously needs time in County); $38. Enormously rich and ripe, with the finish is long and savory. Yet those tannins the cellar. Should develop well over the next 6–10 waves of blackberries, cherries, licorice, choco- interfere with true palate enjoyment. Should age years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. late and cedary oak influences. Feels dry and lush easily throughout the next 8–10 years. Cellar in the mouth, but very tannic, giving a sandpa- Selection. —S.H. Ghost Block 2007 Estate Cabernet pery astringency. You can drink it now with a Sauvignon (Oakville); $60. A beauti- good steak, but this Cab should develop though 93 Trinchero 2007 Chicken Ranch ful Cabernet. Dark, dry and elegantly structured, 2013, at least. —S.H. Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon it has classic Napa tannins and is nicely trimmed 92 in acidity. The flavors are complex and delicious, (Rutherford); $35. A seriously good wine. Kirkland Signature 2007 Signature suggesting ripe blackberries, black currants and Shows classic elegance in the dryness, fine tan- 89 Series Mountain Cuvee Cabernet cedar. Drink now–2015. —S.H. nins and restrained flavors of blackberries, black Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $18. Great price currants and cedar. Feels really refined in the for this rich wine. It shows the density and con- Oakville Winery 2007 Estate mouth, with an herbaceousness that both grounds centration of mountain fruit, and also the tannins, 93 Grown & Produced Cabernet it and balances the fruit. Now–2013. —S.H. with bone-dry flavors of blackberries and currants Sauvignon (Oakville); $46. Very ripe and as well as hints of licorice and Canadian bacon. extracted, almost jammy, with primary fruit fla- Rutherford Ranch 2005 Abela Good now with a few hours of decanting, and vors of blackberries, black cherries, red plums, 91 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon should develop in the bottle through 2013 or so. currants, dark chocolate and spices. Delicious and (Rutherford); $75. An enormously rich, com- Editors’ Choice. —S.H. noble, but kind of immature. Give it 4–6 years to pelling but young, Cabernet. Really impresses for soften and integrate, and it could develop even its sour cherry and blackberry candy flavors, and Magistrate 2006 Limited Produc- longer. Cellar Selection. —S.H. the sophisticated layering of smoky, vanilla- 89 tion Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexan- scented oak. Feels ultrarefined, but also quite der Valley); $29. A little extra time in the Trinchero 2007 Haystack Vineyard tannic. Needs time. Better after 2013, with bottle has yielded a softly attractive Cabernet 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Atlas Peak); proper storage. Cellar Selection. —S.H. filled with lush flavors. It has complex tiers of $50. A wonderful Cabernet, rich and dry. The raspberries, cherries and tobacco, with gentle tan- alcohol is fairly high, but in keeping with the Cobblestone 2005 Cobblestone nins and a light, spicy touch of sandalwood. Pretty wine’s power. The fruity blackberry and currant 90 Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- and polished now. —S.H. flavors are balanced by refreshingly earthy notes gnon (Napa Valley); $69. Clearly well-orig- of olives and sweet herbs. Should develop Sanctuary 2006 Usibeli Vineyard ined, to judge from the fine structure and through 2013. —S.H. Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford); essential purity. But it’s a very tannic, closed wine, 89 $30. Nothing subtle about this big, fruity, tannic with a mouth-numbing astringency that accentu- Cali 351 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon wine. It’s bone dry and the tannins are soft and ates the acidity. Even so, it’s so ripe in blackber- 92 (Napa Valley); $49. This is a big, vital dusty, in the Rutherford way, but definitely there. Cabernet, rich in fruit and sweetly smoked oak, ries and currants it’s almost drinkable now, with a They add an astringency to the black currant, and the tannins are classic Napa Valley, softly com- good decant. But you’re best off cellaring a good mushu plum sauce and cedar flavors. Quite good, plex and ripe. Really strikes you for the delicious 4–6 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. in the manner of previous vintages, but needs flavors of blackberries, cherries, currants, licorice, time. Best after 2011. —S.H. mocha and dried herbs. Now–2013. —S.H. Pali 2007 Highlands Cabernet 90 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $33. A Brookdale Vineyards 2007 Caber- Star Lane Vineyard 2006 Cabernet polished, soft Cabernet blend with Malbec, Caber- 88 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $45. 92 Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley); net Franc and Merlot. It’s particularly smooth in Very rich and attractive, although the tannins are $42. Quite a sophisticated Cab, and one that the mouth, with lush tannins framing blackberry, rather strong, and give the wine a mouth-coating shows the promise of Happy Canyon, which currant and cedar flavors. Drinks rich and com- astringency. But the flavors are delicious, of ripe became an appellation this year. The wine is much plex now and for a few more years. —S.H. blackberries and black currants, edged with anise,

102 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 chocolate and cedar. May be too soft to age, so yet quite sharp in acidity. Could surprise down they are, a collapsed mouthfeel. The softness drink up. —S.H. the road, but it’s a gamble. —S.H. seems likely to limit the wine’s ageability. —S.H.

Rutherford Ranch 2005 Estate Kenwood 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- Valley of the Moon 2007 Cabernet 88 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 87 gnon (Sonoma County); $18. A 87 Sauvignon (Sonoma County); $20. (Rutherford); $70. The oak is strong, giving a good, serviceable Cabernet that has some fancy A good, dry Cabernet whose fruit flavors are bal- toasty, charcoal aroma and tannic texture, and the features. It’s dry and rich in tannins, with subtle anced with rich tannins. Offers upfront flavors of acids and grape tannins likewise contribute to blackberry and black currant flavors grounded blackberries, cherries, raspberries and cocoa. making this wine rather aloof. Underneath are with Provençal herbs. Drink now. —S.H. Good price, considering the elegance —S.H. good, complex cherry and raspberry flavors, with an earthy richness approaching chocolate. Seems Kirkland Signature 2007 Signature C. Beck 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon to have all the parts in place to age. Try around 87 Series Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags 86 (Napa Valley); $48. A bit jammy and 2012. —S.H. Leap District); $19. Softly lush, a nice, fruit- simple, with fresh, primary flavors of blackber- forward Cabernet to drink now. Shows well- ries and cherries that are almost sweet. Oak adds Sojourn 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon ripened blackberry and black currant flavors, creamy, smoky notes. Drink now. —S.H. 88 (Spring Mountain); $59. This is a finished with a touch of smoky oak. Good price nice, likeable Cabernet made for drinking now. It for a Stags Leap Cab. —S.H. Ehret 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon shows fancy Napa tannins and ripe, sweet flavors 86 (Knights Valley); $34. A bit thin on of blackberries, red cherries, licorice and sandal- Lake Sonoma 2007 Cabernet the blackberry fruit, and showing some veggie wood that are intense and concentrated in the 87 Sauvignon (Alexander Valley); notes. Also pretty tannic. Might have seen its bet- way of mountain fruit. Lovely and easy, it will $24. Currants, black and red, are the dominant ter days a year or so ago. —S.H. develop bottle complexity over the next 2–3 flavors of this drily elegant wine. You’ll also find years. —S.H. notes of briary blackberries and dark, unsweet- Hess 2007 Allomi Vineyard Caber- ened baker’s chocolate. Best in the next few years 86 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $28. Brandlin 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- before it loses fruity freshness. —S.H. Here’s a gutsy, fruity Cabernet. It fills the mouth 87 gnon (Mount Veeder); $85. Even with juicy raspberry, cherry and blackberry fla- for a Mount Veeder Cab, this one’s pretty tannic. Perry Creek 2007 Altitude 2401 vors and hints of chocolate. Nothing subtle, just a It also seems very oaky, with lots of caramelized, 87 Fair Play Farms Cabernet Sauvi- dry, rich red wine for drinking now. —S.H. charred wood. Somewhere underneath it all are gnon (El Dorado); $35. An interesting and blackberries and black currants that are sweetly quite good Cabernet Sauvignon for drinking now. J. Rickards 2007 Five Sisters Blend ripe. Your best bet is to cellar it, but its future is It’s soft and melted in the mouth, with rich, com- 86 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander uncertain given the initial irregularities. —S.H. plex waves of blackberries, cherries, chocolate Valley); $34. Despite some richly extracted and anise, dusted with briary herbs and spices. blackberry and black currant flavors, this wine’s Concannon 2007 Mother Vine —S.H. tannins and acids are out of whack. They give the 87 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Liv- wine a sharp, hard mouthfeel, and it actually ermore Valley); $30. The Mother Vine Caber- Titus 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon turns bitter instead of spicy on the finish. Ready net is drinking soft and easy now, with gentle 87 (Napa Valley); $40. A good Cabernet, now. —S.H. tannins framing slightly herbaceous blackberry with pleasantly ripe blackberry, cherry and cur- and black cherry flavors, touched with smoky oak. rant flavors, as well as a nice coating of sweet oak. Rutherford Ranch 2005 Franklin It feels like a wine you want to age, although the Feels a little rugged in the mouth, with some 86 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon softness suggests it won’t for long. —S.H. edgy tannins. Give it a couple hours of decanting (Rutherford); $75. Way too oaky. Like drinking before service. —S.H. toothpicks, with its charred, wood flavors and oak Domaine Georg Rafael Vineyards tannins. The wine is dry and the underlying 87 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak Tor Kenward 2007 Mast Vineyard blackberry and cherry sour candy fruit is just fine, Knoll); $45. Young, tannic and acidic now, this 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yountville); but the oak dominance makes you wonder if the is a gritty wine not offering lots of pleasure $75. Tannic and gritty now, with a hard mouth- wine will ever age. —S.H. because of the toughness, despite some very rich feel, and it’s hard to imagine the wine will ever blackberry, black currant, mineral and cedar fla- resolve its issues. However, it’s clean and dry and Sojourn 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon vors. You’ll want to cellar it for four or five years. intricately layered in blackberries and cedar. Give 86 (Howell Mountain); $65. From a Its future beyond that is a question mark. —S.H. it a good decant. —S.H. winery whose Cabernets have struggled over the years comes this release from Napa’s Howell Domaine Georg Rafael Vineyards Trinchero 2007 Mario’s Vineyard Mountain. It’s dry and tannic and very fruity in 87 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena); blackberries and black currants, but not particu- Knoll); $45. Dry and fruity, with big blackberry, $50. A bit soft and lacking in bright structure, larly subtle right now. Feels somewhat common black currant and cedar flavors, wrapped into sig- which gives the complex blackberry, currant, dark despite its pedigreed appellation. Try the cellar. nificant tannins. It’s a vigorous, young Cabernet, chocolate, anise, herb and cedar flavors, good as —S.H.

WineMag.com | 103 BUYING I GUIDE

Swanson 2006 Alexis Cabernet and quick. An everyday Cabernet whose brisk Tastes like a melted cherry pie, with the sugary, 86 Sauvignon (Oakville); $75. A bit tannins suggest rich barbecue. —S.H. smoky crust. —S.H. overripe, with a raisiny taste behind the black currants, and also quite dry and tannic, with a Fetzer 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Dane Cellars 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- hard, mouth-locking, dusty astringency. The com- 84 (California); $9. Uncomplicated and 82 gnon (Sonoma Valley); $24. A little bination definitely strikes you as unbalanced, and tasty, this is a nice Cabernet for everyday pur- too sweet for comfort, with jellied raspberry and not likely to age out. —S.H. poses. It’s dry and silky, with pleasant cherry, cherry flavors edged with the vanilla and caramel blackberry, mocha and cedar flavors. —S.H. tastes from toasted oak barrels. Grows more sug- Beaver Creek 2007 Cabernet ary as it sits in the glass. —S.H. 85 Sauvignon (Rutherford); $39. Made Huge Bear 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- in a leaner, drier style than many, this Cabernet’s 84 gnon (Sonoma County); $55. Not Glen Ellen 2008 Proprietor’s blackberry and cherry flavors have an edge of much going on with this tannic wine, especially at Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Cal- mint and tobacco. Turns quite tart on the finish. 82 this price. It’s astringent in the mouth, and too ifornia); $10. Pretty harsh, with unripe, green Drink now. —S.H. softly sweet, with modest blackberry and oak fla- tannins and tart pepper and blackberry flavors. vors. —S.H. Beaver Creek 2007 Horne Ranch The price is pretty good, at least. —S.H. Cabernet Sauvignon (Lake 85 Pennywise 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- Mutt Lynch 2007 Chateau d’Og County); $39. Good blackberry, black currant, 84 gnon (California); $12. This is the Cabernet Sauvignon (Central cocoa and cedar flavors in this Cab, and it’s nicely 82 kind of Cabernet you get served at a big party. It’s Coast); $14. Bone dry and tannic, with a sour dry, with firm, finely ground tannins. Turns rather fine for everyday purposes, filled with simple, bite of acidity. It’s a pretty fierce Cab, despite sharp on the finish, and that tartness may never jammy raspberry, cherry and sweet oak flavors. go away. —S.H. some decent blackberry flavors. —S.H. —S.H. Darcie Kent Vineyards 2007 Mad- Napa Family Vineyards 2007 Three Saints 2006 Cabernet Sauvi- den Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 85 gnon (Santa Ynez Valley); $22. 82 (Livermore Valley); $24. Dry, sharp and gritty, 84 (Napa Valley); $10. Hard to like this dry, bitter Decent blackberry and black currant flavors, lacking smoothness and balance in the mouth. wine. It’s cutting and tannic in the mouth, with touched with cedar, in this dry wine. It’s a little Give it a richer texture, and the blackberry and very modest blackberry fruit. —S.H. too acidic and green, though, and seems over- currant flavors would be just fine, even ageable. priced for what you get. —S.H. —S.H. Robert Mondavi 2008 Private Selection Cabernet Sauvignon Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi 82 Niner 2007 Bootjack Ranch Caber- (California); $11. 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Califor- Gets the Cabernet job done net Sauvignon (Paso Robles); $28. 84 with sweetish blackberry and black currant fla- 85 nia); $8. A little thin in flavor, but honest and A bit sharp and minty, with some green tannic vors, tinged with oak-like notes. But it’s a funda- robust, with thick tannins framing blackberries, astringency accompanying the riper fruit flavors cherries, currants and herbs. A very good price mentally uninteresting wine, even at this price. of blackberries and cherries. It’s a good, honest —S.H. wine whose texture is somewhat off. —S.H. for a Cab this easy to drink. Best Buy. —S.H. Paoletti 2007 Bella Novello Caber- Beauregard 2005 Beauregard CABERNET FRANC net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $25. 83 Ranch Vineyard Estate Grown 85 Cabernet Sauvignon (Ben Lomond Somewhat raisiny and bitter. Tastes like press Lang & Reed 2008 Cabernet Franc wine, with harsh, grapeskin tannins that make it Mountain); $55. Dry, tannic and thin. What- (North Coast); $22. This is a sleek, feel astringently dry. Pretty good flavors, though, ever fruit there used to be has dropped out, leav- 87 streamlined and very dry red wine. It’s not big of blackberries and currants. Drink up. —S.H. ing behind alcohol and the ghost of black currants. —S.H. and rich, but it is elegantly crafted, with no flaws Smith & Hook 2007 Cabernet to mar the acidity and finely ground tannins. The 85 Sauvignon (Central Coast); $30. Ca’ Momi 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- flavors, of cherries, anise and dried herbs, are Good and dry, with some fine blackberry and 82 gnon (Napa Valley); $18. Unbal- complex. —S.H. black currant flavors. But it’s pretty hard in acidity anced, with overripe raisiny, pruny flavors next to and tannins, and cellaring probably won’t help less than ripe harsh tannins. Although the wine is Trinchero 2007 Cabernet Franc resolve those issues. Drink now. —S.H. dry, it feels awkwardly sharp and tired. —S.H. 87 (Napa Valley); $50. A good wine, dry and tannic, but a little one-dimensional in rich- Concannon 2007 Conservancy Dane Cellars 2007 Jackknife Cor- ness. Shows pretty flavors of red and black cher- 84 Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore 82 ner Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma ries, with a hint of mint and cocoa. Could be Valley); $14. Soft and simple, with pleasant Valley); $32. It’s for you, if you like your Cabs lusher and offer more layers. Call it elegant rather blackberry, currant and oak flavors that finish dry soft, sweet in jellied fruit and hot in alcohol. than opulent. Drink now. —S.H.

104 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 Carr 2007 Cabernet Franc (Santa cherry and smoky cedar flavors. Shows some real lot, and it has nice mouthwatering acidity. But 84 Ynez Valley); $30. A hot, rather brutal flair and richness. Drink now. —S.H. it’s a little unripe, with some green, herbaceous wine. High alcohol combines with high, hard tan- flavors accompanying the cherries and spicy nins to make for a real textural challenge, despite Concannon 2007 Reserve Merlot plums. —S.H. interesting cherry, licorice and Canadian bacon 86 (Livermore Valley); $25. A bit coarse flavors. Drink now. —S.H. in the mouth, with a sandpapery tartness through Mutt Lynch 2007 Merlot Over and the finish. On the plus side, the wine is fully dry 84 Play Dead Merlot (Central Coast); Buttonwood Farm 2007 Estate and well-flavored, with black cherries, currants, $14. A simple, rustic wine, dry and tannic, with 83 Grown Cabernet Franc (Santa spicy teriaki beef and cedar. Drink now. —S.H. earthy flavors of tobacco, blackberries and herbs. Ynez Valley); $22. Not a bad wine, but green Considerable acidity gives it a real bite. —S.H. and minty-sweet, like a raspberry sour candy Concannon 2007 Conservancy lozenge. The grapes and tannins just didn’t get 86 Merlot (Livermore Valley); $14. Pennywise 2008 Merlot (Califor- ripe enough. —S.H. Peppery and sandpapery, almost like Zinfandel, 84 nia); $12. Sweet raspberry jam, herb, with briary blackberry flavors. Not especially green pea and vanilla caramel flavors mark this complicated, but it’s dry and clean, and a decent soft, simple Merlot. It’s an easy sipper with a MERLOT full-bodied red for ordinary occasions. —S.H. clean, spicy finish. —S.H.

Trinchero 2007 Vista Montone Marilyn 2008 Merlot (Napa Val- Concannon 2007 Selected Vine- 92 Vineyard Daybreak Block Merlot 86 ley); $29. A rather ordinary Merlot, dry 83 yards Merlot (Central Coast); $10. (Napa Valley); $35. A lovely Merlot, dry and and rugged, with jammy-fruity flavors of cherries, Simple and direct in cherry, blackberry and san- oaky and earthy, with a rich vein of cherries, vio- herbs and oak. Blended with Beckstoffer Caber- dalwood flavors, this Merlot is for everyday drink- lets, red licorice and spicy bacon. Defines ele- net Sauvignon, which gives it needed body and ing at a fair price. It has a nice, silky texture. gance, with a gentle scour of tannins. One of the power. —S.H. —S.H. drier, classier Merlots out there. Great with a juicy steak. —S.H. Niner 2007 Bootjack Ranch Merlot Praxis 2007 Merlot (Alexander 86 (Paso Robles); $24. Good, deeply 82 Valley); $19. A tough, green wine, with Trinchero 2007 Chicken Ranch extracted flavors in this darkly soft wine, with minty sharp acidity and not much fruit, although 91 Vineyard Merlot (Rutherford); blackberries, plums and spicy, chocolaty chai tea. you’ll find some modest cherry flavor. —S.H. $35. Dry and tannic, a Merlot that’s the opposite It’s nicely dry. The tannins are a little off, with of softly luxurious. But it’s extremely elegant with some ragged, green edges that won’t age away, so Buttonwood Farm 2007 Estate its cherry, red currant and bitter cherryskin fla- drink now. —S.H. 81 Grown Merlot (Santa Ynez Val- vors, and shows true complexity throughout. Just ley); $22. Nowhere near ripe, with asparagus cries out for a fine steak, in a brown butter, soft Swanson 2006 Merlot (Oakville); and boiled green bean aromas and flavors. Simply cheese and garlic sauce. —S.H. 86 $36. A good red wine, although it shows lacks richness of fruit. —S.H. some of the problems that Merlot experiences. Nickel & Nickel 2007 Harris Vine- Maybe it was the vintage, but the wine is too dry Glen Ellen 2007 Proprietor’s 89 yard Merlot (Oakville); $50. Rasp- for what little fruit you get. It leaves a brittle 81 Reserve Merlot (California); $10. ingly dry and fierce in tannins, this Merlot is quite astringency behind the cherry and currant flavors. Pretty harsh, with green tannins and minty flavors, different from other Bordeaux-style red wines —S.H. relieved by some modest cherry notes. —S.H. from Oakville that are ripe and lush. Doesn’t offer much reward now due to the astringency, Darcie Kent Vineyards 2007 Picazo but has a solid core of blackberries. Hard to know 85 Vineyard Merlot (Livermore Val- MERITAGE if the fruit will outlast the tannins. —S.H. ley); $30. Too sharp and aggressive in tart acid- ity, which emphasizes the tannins, making it feel Trinchero 2007 Meritage (Napa Nickel & Nickel 2007 Suscol Ranch overly astringent. Not a bad wine, with pleasant 91 Valley); $50. Tough and gritty in tan- 89 Merlot (Napa Valley); $55. Made in cherry and blackberry flavors, but it sure is tough nins, with a mouthfeel like you’re chewing on the Nickel & Nickel style, which is very dry and in the mouth. —S.H. sandpaper. Yet this Bordeaux blend is very rich in considerably more tannic than its peers in Napa fruit, with a solid core of blackberries, black cur- Valley, this Merlot needs some time in the cellar Gnarly Head 2008 Merlot (Califor- rants, anise and violets, sweetened with toast oak. to shed its astringency and let the cherries blos- 84 nia); $11. Here’s a good everyday Mer- Decant this classy Bordeaux Blend for a few som. The vineyard is in a cooler, southerly part of lot marked by rich fruit and a smooth mouthfeel. hours before serving. —S.H. the valley. —S.H. Thoroughly dry, it brims with black raspberries, cherries and chocolate-covered raisins. —S.H. St. Francis 2007 Anthem Meritage St. Francis 2007 Merlot (Sonoma 88 (Sonoma Valley); $60. Very tannic 87 County); $22. Pretty dry and tannic, Jekel 2007 Merlot (Arroyo Seco); and gritty now. Shuts the fruit down with a dry, but redeemed by good, ripe blackberry, black 84 $15. Firm, dry tannins mark this Mer- sandpapery astringency. But what great fruit. It’s

WineMag.com | 105 BUYING I GUIDE rich in blackberries, black cherries, currants, flavors that last so deep and long. A bit too soft isfy folks who complain about fruit bombs. But it’s licorice and mocha, and is bone dry. Could and for the cellar, but delicious now with barbecue. also pretty tart. Drink now with rich Italian- should age, but there’s a certain sharpness that —S.H. inspired fare. —S.H. makes you wonder. —S.H. Eberle 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon- Novy Cellars 2008 Four Mile Creek Arrow Creek 2008 Coastal Series 89 Syrah (Paso Robles); $29. A lovely 87 (North Coast); $9. Hooray for Novy 84 Meritage (California); $18. A pretty wine, charming and complex. Shows how well for producing this fine, inexpensive wine and for good wine, with blackberry, cherry and currant this blend works for Eberle in Paso Robles, espe- putting their name proudly on it, instead of hid- flavors, and some smoky oak. Nice and dry, with cially in a good vintage. Soft and lush, the wine is ing behind a second label. It’s dry and crisp and smooth tannins, it’s a decent sipper. —S.H. rich in blackberries and spices. Drinks well now, totally drinkable, with pleasant berry, cherry and and should hold for some years. —S.H. spice flavors. Best Buy. —S.H. Robert Mondavi 2008 Private 84 Selection Meritage (California); Dominus 2007 Napanook (Napa Venge 2008 Scout’s Honor (Napa $11. Pretty good price for an everyday Caber- 89 Valley); $45. This is a big, full-bodied 87 Valley); $38. Made in a fruit-forward net-based wine with some nice fruity flavors. wine, but it’s rather heavy now. Brings a wave of way, with jammy blackberry, cherry and currant Shows blackberries, black cherries and black cur- blackberries, black currants and chocolate into flavors that finish in a swirl of chocolate and rants, and is dry and spicy. —S.H. the mouth, and then sort of sinks down into an spices. It’s a heartily tannic wine for drinking now. inertia of tannins. It’s not ready to drink now, but Good with slow-cooked meat stews and barbe- Stuart Cellars 2006 Tatria Vintner’s it does have a fancy overall balance, including the cue. Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Charbono and Syrah. 83 Limited Reserve Meritage (Temec- oak appliqué. Give it a good 4–5 years in the cel- —S.H. ula Valley); $35. Bone dry, tough and leathery, lar, but it’s probably not for the long haul. Cellar with a bitter, raisiny edge to the blackberries and Selection. —S.H. Babcock 2008 Fathom (Santa Ynez cherries. Drink now. —S.H. 86 Valley); $50. A bit unripe, with a slight Carlotta 2008 Aran & David’s Red vegetal intrusion into the blackberries and cher- Stuart Cellars 2006 Long Valley 88 (California); $20. This is a firmly tan- ries. Teeter-totters just on the edge of ripeness, 82 Red Limited Estate Reserve Mer- nic, full-bodied wine whose dark berry and stone but falls short. Otherwise, the tannins are pretty, itage (Temecula Valley); $50. A tough, com- fruit flavors are sprinkled with lots of black pep- and the oak is deftly applied. —S.H. mon wine, gritty in tannins, with superripe per. A blend of Sangiovese, Syrah and Petite blackberry flavors that veer into bitter raisinskins Sirah, it’s completely dry, with complex black- Paoletti 2008 Piccolo Cru (Calis- and dark, unsweetened baker’s chocolate. Not berry, black currant and leather flavors, and a hint 86 toga); $22. Somewhat rugged and going anywhere. —S.H. of superripe raisins. Drink now. —S.H. astringent now, with a bite of acidity, but it’s an enormously rich wine, with black currant and Paoletti 2007 Non Plus Ultra (Napa chocolate flavors. Best now with grilled meats. A RED BLENDS 88 Valley); $65. This is a very big, extract- Bordeaux blend based on Malbec. —S.H. edly fruity Bordeaux blend. Right now, it’s tannic Lang & Reed 2005 Right Bank and sharp and dry, but it has explosive blackberry, Vina Robles 2008 Red4 Huerhuero 94 (Napa Valley); $60. This is a big, elab- black currant and dark chocolate flavors. Rather 86 (Paso Robles); $16. Soft and jammy, orate wine, the kind that feels lush and impor- too angular and awkward for complete enjoyment, with raspberry and red licorice flavors and a tant in the mouth, and it fills a vital niche in the but cellar for 4–6 years and try again. —S.H. streak of brambles, nettles and peppery spices. Napa lineup. Based on Cabernet Franc, which is It’s a good, dry wine, but would benefit from the winery’s specialty, it’s lighter and more ele- Castello di Amorosa 2007 Il greater structure. A Syrah-based Rhône-style gant than a Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, and the 87 Barone (Napa Valley); $75. Doesn’t blend. —S.H. fruit veers toward cherries, not black currants. It’s say so on the label, but it’s Cabernet Sauvignon. extraordinarily rich, and grows more interesting However it’s utterly unlike most other Napa Cabs Yorkville Cellars 2007 Hi-Rollr as it warms in the glass. Terrific with a fine grilled in the dryness and tartness. Almost like a Chianti, 85 (Mendocino County); $18. A good, steak. Pricey, but unique and worth it for a special with bone-dry cherry, red currant and tobacco rather rugged wine. It’s edgy in tannins and some- occasion. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. flavors, scoured with tannins, that finish with a what overripe, with raisin, plum, blackberry, cof- cut of acidity. —S.H. fee and spice flavors. But it’s nicely dry. Zinfandel, Galante 2007 Grand Champion Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit 90 (Carmel Valley); $75. Kudos to Castello di Amorosa 2007 La Verdot. —S.H. Galante for crafting this distinctive blend of Mal- 87 Castellana (Napa Valley); $65. This bec, Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and San- Alienor 2005 Red Wine (Lake dark, tannic, utterly dry wine that feels stylish in giovese is much drier, more acidic and earthier 84 County); $65. Good and dry, but awk- the mouth despite its considerable astringency. than many other Napa reds. Therein lies its ward, with slightly vegetal flavors sticking through Maybe it’s the depth of blackberry, currant, strengh and its weakness. It’s a firm wine with riper ones of blackberries and black currants. The licorice, bacon, Mexican molé and sandalwood suggestions of cherries and tobacco that will sat- acid-tannin relationship also is unbalanced.

106 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 Redeems itself on the finish, with a flourish of consumers want today. Dry and tannic, it’s thin raspberries along with an exotic coating of sandal- chocolate. —S.H. and raisiny and common. —S.H. wood. Drink now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

St. Francis 2007 Claret (Sonoma Buttonwood Farm 2007 Hawk Red Side Job 2008 Zinfandel (Sonoma 84 County); $22. A good, sound red wine, 80 (Santa Ynez Valley); $14. So vegetal, 90 County); $15. One sip is all it takes to made from the five Bordeaux varieties. It’s dry it’s barely drinkable. Cabernets Sauvignon and love this wine, if you’re a Zinfandel fan. It’s bone and gently tannic, with herb, tobacco and black Franc. —S.H. dry, silky in texture and spicy, with brambly, briary cherry flavors. —S.H. flavors of wild forest berries, red currants, tobacco and beef jerky. Feels really rich and St. Francis 2007 Cuvée Lago (Russ- ZINFANDEL savory, right through the long, peppery finish. 84 ian River Valley); $40. A blend of And look at that price. Best Buy. —S.H. Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, this wine is soft Dutcher Crossing 2008 Bernier- and tannic, with a puckery mouthfeel. The cherry- 93 Sibary Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Clif Family 2007 Gary’s Improv Zin- berry flavors are jammy. Ready now. —S.H. Creek Valley); $39. Quite a beautiful Zinfan- 89 fandel (Napa Valley); $35. Intricate del. It takes Dry Creek’s briary fruit and lifts it, flavors of blackberries, cherries, raspberries and Minassian-Young 2007 Black St. although the wine retains a peppery, brambly honey-nut granola mark this deliciously dry wine, 83 Peter (Paso Robles); $23. Soft and character. Blended with Petite Sirah, Carignane spiced with exotic cinnamon, star anise and pep- melted in fruit, with high alcohol that gives it a and Mataro (Mourvèdre), it’s rich in wild rasp- per. It’s very good, although it could have a firmer burn, this Zinfandel and Mourvèdre-based blend berry, cherry, sweet cured tobacco, anise and san- structure. Ready now. —S.H. has raspberry, cola and spice flavors. Drink now dalwood flavors, with a squeeze of orange Perry Creek 2007 Zinman Zinfan- with spicy burgers, ribs, roast pork. —S.H. essence. —S.H. 88 del (El Dorado); $14. A lovely Zinfan- Minassian-Young 2007 GMSV Magistrate 2007 Limited Produc- del, soft and dry, with luscious cherry, raspberry and sandalwood flavors, dusted with pepper and (Paso Robles); $22. A basic red Rhône tion Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley); 83 93 cocoa. Easy to drink and versatile with everything blend, with a dash of Viognier for acidic bright- $25. Great Zinfandel, showing Dry Creek Valley from pizza to a grilled steak. Editors’ Choice. ness. Shows simple, thin flavors of raspberries at its best. The wine is dry and super-spicy, with —S.H. and cherries, with a dash of sweet oak. —S.H. complex, succulent wild berry, currant, licorice, bacon and pepper flavors, and just a touch of Fiddletown Cellars 2008 Old Vine Thacher 2007 Controlled Chaos superripe raisins on the finish. Really notable for Zinfandel (Fiddletown); $18. A (Paso Robles); $33. Soft and slightly the quality of its fine tannins. Editors’ Choice. 87 83 delightfully spicy, rich Zinfandel, packed with sweet, this wine tastes like raspberry and cherry —S.H. fruity flavors ranging from blackberries and cola syrup with a dash of melted milk chocolate. It’s through chocolate to raisins. The alcohol is high, also hot, with 15.7% of alcohol. Zinfandel, Side Job 2008 C5 Stefani Vineyard and the wine is a bit hot, but that’s part of its per- Mourvèdre and Grenache. —S.H. Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley); $25. 91 sonality. —S.H. This very dry wine shows the spicy, briary flavors Big House 2008 Red (California); of Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel. The flavors are of Perry Creek 2007 Altitude 2401 82 $10. Soft and simple, with jammy berry- wild black and red berries, currants, brambly net- 87 Fair Play Farms Zinfandel (El cherry flavors and some bitterness throughout. tles, pepper, Chinese 5 spice, espresso and a hint Dorado); $25. Delicious in briary blackberry —S.H. of earthy dark chocolate. Quite a fine, complex jam, cherry pie, currant, milk chocolate, black drink that wants smoky, charred meats, like bar- pepper and anise flavors, with a touch of sweet Big House NV Red (California); becued ribs, pork, or a rich grilled steak. —S.H. oak, and the finish is totally dry. It’s a little too soft 82 $22. The price is right, but the wine is a in structure, but fine if you’re in the mood for little vegetal despite some cherry and currant fla- Dane Cellars 2007 Zinfandel Zinfandel. —S.H. vors. Will do in a pinch, if your guests aren’t par- 90 (Sonoma Valley); $26. This is a very ticular. —S.H. nice, restaurant-style Zin, meaning it’s dry, Darcie Kent Vineyards 2007 De smoothly tannic and elegantly balanced, not one 86 Mayo Zinfandel (Livermore Val- Big House 2007 The Lineup GSM of those sweet fruit bombs. It has complex fla- ley); $30. Lots of briary wild blackberry, cherry 82 (Central Coast); $12. Harsh in acids, vors of wild berries, currants, tobacco and lots of and exotic spice flavors in this Zin, with cola, simple and fruity sweet in jammy raspberries. A peppery spices. —S.H. tobacco and mushu plum sauce complexities, and blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. —S.H. the finish is dry. Compromised by a hit of sharp Mounts 2007 Estate Grown Zin- acidity, but rich barbecue will help. —S.H. Francis Ford Coppola 2008 Pre- 90 fandel (Dry Creek Valley); $20. A 82 sents Rosso (Lodi); $11. Harsh and very good wine, dry and super-spicy, with the The Federalist 2007 Estate Grown jagged. Might be the sort of vino Nonno drank 80 brambly fruit you want in a Dry Creek Zin. It 86 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley); $25. years ago, but it’s pretty out of touch with what shows robust, complex flavors of cherries and A very fruity Zinfandel, rewarding in blackberry,

WineMag.com | 107 BUYING I GUIDE blueberry tart and currant flavors, accented with Glen Ellen 2007 Proprietor’s $14. Tastes dry, bitter and tannic, like press wine, dark chocolate, anise and pepper. Too soft, and 83 Reserve Old Vine Zinfandel (Cali- with green, stemmy flavors of berries and green would benefit from greater crispness, but it’s a fornia); $10. Weedy and vegetal despite some peppercorns. Drink now. —S.H. nice Zin now. —S.H. decent raspberry, cherry and spice flavors. Okay for a big party where nobody’s fussy. Best Buy. Thacher 2007 Will’s Hills Zinfandel Stuart Cellars 2007 Lopez Ranch —S.H. 82 (Paso Robles); $40. There’s a rustic 85 Vintners Special Select Reserve feeling in the mouthfeel of this dry Zinfandel. It Zinfandel (Cucamonga Valley); $30. This is J. Rickards 2006 Ancestor Selec- has disagreeably hard, astringent tannins, and tions Vineyard Zinfandel (Alexan- a very dry and rather bitter wine, with a raisinskin 83 there’s also a bitterness that seems to come from der Valley); $22. toughness. It’s not very generous in fruit, but is A sound, fruity, if rustic shriveled grape skins. —S.H. nuanced in its own way. Needs rich barbecue to Zinfandel. It’s soft and slightly sweet, with can- tease out the blackberries and chocolate. —S.H. died blackberry, raspberry, Dr. Pepper, licorice Beaver Creek 2007 Zinfandel (Lake and spice flavors, and a coating of caramelized County); $29. Soft, simple and sweet, oak. —S.H. 81 Goats Trail 2009 Zinfandel (Cali- with jellied raspberry, cherry and spice flavors. 84 fornia); $11. Jammy and simple, with Tastes like an inferior dessert wine. —S.H. ripe cherry, blackberry and pepper flavors. Noth- Lava Cap 2007 Spring House Zin- fandel (El Dorado); $22. Simple and ing terribly complex, but an easy everyday Zin at 83 Dancing Bull 2008 Winemakers jammy, this Zin shows fruity flavors of raspber- a decent price. —S.H. Reserve Zinfandel (California); ries, cherries and oranges. It’s a little sugary 81 $12. Frankly sweet, with candied raspberry and J. Rickards 2006 Voigt Family Vine- sweet. —S.H. cherry flavors. Feels soft and cloying. —S.H. yard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley); 84 Lava Cap 2007 Reserve Zinfandel $24. Shows some ultraripe Porty flavors and bit- (El Dorado); $20. Good, rich flavors Gia Domella 2007 Reserve Zinfan- terness that come from the tannins of raisin skins. 83 in this Zin, with raspberry and cherry jam and del (Russian River Valley); $65. That accentuates the dryness, and compromises 81 chocolaty mocha, dusted with cinnamon. But it’s Feels hot and Porty in the mouth, although it’s very what otherwise is a pleasant Dry Creek Valley pretty simple, like a Starbucks drink, and too soft. dry, with bitter raisinskin and shriveled cherry fla- Zinfandel. —S.H. —S.H. vors. The alcohol approaches 16%. —S.H. Mutt Lynch 2007 Canis Major Per- Thacher 2007 Triumverate Reserve Minassian-Young 2008 Estate Zin- otti Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek 84 Zinfandel (Paso Robles); $36. Good fandel (Paso Robles); $24. Tastes Valley); $25. Basically a high-alcohol fruit 83 81 berry, cherry, chocolate, tobacco and spice flavors unevenly ripened, with blackberry and vegetal bomb, with jammy flavors of raspberries and in this Zinfandel, but it’s too soft and flat in struc- flavors side by side, and seems to have residual cherries. The heat from 15.5% alcohol gives it a ture. It’s also frankly hot, with 15.7% alcohol, and sugar. The sweetness is compounded with high chili pepper burn. Defines that style, for those has a Porty finish. —S.H. alcohol. —S.H. who like it. —S.H. Ca’ Momi 2007 Zinfandel (Napa Scott Harvey 2007 Mountain Valley); $15. Simple and jammy, with Selection Zinfandel (Amador 82 SYRAH 84 sweet flavors of cherries, currants, licorice and County); $20. Robust, but a little awkward. spices. —S.H. Novy Cellars 2007 Syrah (Santa Shows semi-sweet, jammy raspberry and cherry Lucia Highlands); $27. A tremendous flavors with big tannins and acidity. Almost like a Gia Domella 2007 E. Passalacqua 93 Syrah that shows how the Highlands aren’t just simple Port. Ready now. —S.H. Heritage Estate Zinfandel (Russian 82 for Pinot Noir. Dry and peppery, it has big tan- River Valley); $26. Burning hot in alcohol, this nins and crisp acidity framing blackberry, black Stuart Cellars 2006 Lopez Ranch Zin is totally dry. It has peppery flavors of shriv- currant, blueberry and dark, unsweetened choco- 84 Vintners Special Select Reserve eled grapes and currants, with a bitter mouthfeel. late flavors. Impresses for richness, complexity Zinfandel (Cucamonga Valley); $30. Very, —S.H. very dry, but bitter in raisinskin flavors and tan- and power. Now–2013. —S.H. nins, with a baked currant finish. Not a bad wine, Hunt Cellars 2004 Destiny Vine- but an acquired taste. Drink now. —S.H. 82 yards Reserve Zinfandel (Paso Novy Cellars 2007 Simpson Vine- Robles); $75. Soft and mushy in structure, with 93 yard Syrah (Dry Creek Valley); Fiddletown Cellars 2008 Bent Bow sweet, pie-filling flavors of berries that have a $29. Beautiful Syrah, dry, tannic and elegant, 83 Zinfandel (Amador County); $24. baked fruit edge, this Zin tastes like it was a vic- with a most pleasurable mouthfeel. Feels full- Dry and spicy, with some green peppercorn and tim of hot overripeness. —S.H. bodied and chewy, with blackberry, black currant, vegetal aromas and flavors that interfere with leather and tobacco flavors, finished in a swirl of enjoyment. A few modest blackberry notes rescue Mutt Lynch 2007 Portrait of a Indian spices. Novy is really at the top of their it. —S.H. 82 Mutt Zinfandel (Central Coast); Syrah game. —S.H.

108 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 Novy Cellars 2007 Amber Ridge Ehret 2007 Syrah (Knights Valley); Concannon 2007 Reserve Syrah 92 Vineyard Syrah (Russian River Val- 88 $28. Quite a good Syrah, although it’s a 85 (Livermore Valley); $25. A tough, ley); $29. Impresses for its dryness, big tannins little too soft, so open it now because it won’t hold gritty wine, marked by strongly astringent tan- and acids, and for the complexity of flavor. Offers for too long. It’s dry and silky smooth in the nins. Underneath are fine blackberry, cherry, cur- delicious waves of blackberry tart and blueberry mouth, with rich, ripe blackberry, blueberry, rant, mineral, floral and pepper flavors with hints muffin, sprinkled with cocoa and cinnamon and a chocolate, bacon and pepper flavors. —S.H. of chocolate and cassis. But the mouthfeel is so drizzle of cassis. Really a beautiful Syrah, classy tannic it detracts from the pleasure, nor does the and elegant. Drinks well now and through 2012. Mounts 2007 Estate Grown Syrah wine seem ageable. —S.H. —S.H. 88 (Dry Creek Valley); $28. If you think you don’t like Syrah, try this one. It’s so pretty, so Perry Creek 2007 Syrah (El Novy Cellars 2007 Judge Family easy to drink for its soft lushness, but is also quite 85 Dorado); $17. Good and dry, with Vineyard Syrah (Bennett Valley); complex. Offers gentle waves of raspberries, pleasant blackberry flavors and lots of peppery 92 spices. The texture is a bit uneven, though, with $29. Very fine, very rich and very dry, this is a cherries, licorice, Canadian bacon and pepper clunky tannins and some green notes. Drink now. Syrah you can pull out for your best steaks. It has that finish bone dry and spicy. —S.H. —S.H. a peppery saltiness that will pair brilliantly with Carr 2007 Morehouse Vineyard charred beef. Richness comes via ripe blackber- Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley); $50. Mutt Lynch 2006 Canis Major Unti ries and cherries, as well as from sweet, smoky 87 Vineyard Syrah (Dry Creek Valley); Very tough and tannic now, and dry too, so that 84 oak. Terrific now and through 2013. —S.H. $25. the ultimate impact is disagreeably harsh. That, Rich in blackberry, black currant and pep- despite a solid core of blackberries, black cur- per flavors, and completely dry, but kind of rustic Babcock 2009 Identity Crisis Syrah and awkwardly hot in the mouth. There’s a sharp rants, violets, bacon and minerals. The question is 90 (Santa Barbara County); $15. Iden- edge of green tannins. Doesn’t showcase the fruit one of ageability. The answer is that it’s a gamble, tity crisis indeed. The label says Syrah, but the of this fine vineyard as well as it should. —S.H. as the wine, like the stock market, could go either wine is white. Actually, golden copper in color. way. —S.H. It’s perfectly dry and wonderfully crisp, with com- Carmel 2007 S&S Syrah (Monterey plex waves of sour citrus fruit candy, spice and County); $35. Fess Parker 2007 Rodney’s Vine- 82 Vegetal, with a green mineral flavors. Fascinating and elusive, it’s com- yard Syrah (Santa Barbara bell pepper aroma and taste. What fruit there is pelling. Best Buy. —S.H. 87 veers toward currants, and the mouthfeel is soft. County); $45. Black pepper is the star of this —S.H. bone-dry, full-bodied young wine, in both the Miraflores 2007 Méthode Anci- aroma and the flavor. Below that are bold notes of enne Syrah (El Dorado); $25. This is Robert Mondavi 2008 Private 90 black currants, plums and leather. The tannins a wonderfully soft, complex Syrah. Completely Selection Syrah (California); $11. are hard, giving it a mouth-stinging astringency. 82 dry, it offers waves of raspberries, red currants, There’s a harsh edge of acidic, green sharpness to Your best bet is to cellar it for 3–4 years, but it’s mocha, licorice, sandalwood and dusty Indian this wine. It’s bone dry, with very modest black- somewhat risky. —S.H. spices that linger on through a long finish. A very berry fruit. —S.H. fine, medium- to full-bodied red wine for drink- Morse 2007 Estate Syrah (Amador Stuart Cellars 2007 Limited ing now. —S.H. 87 County); $24. A nice Syrah, rich and 81 Reserve Syrah (Temecula Valley); soft in the mouth, that shows plenty of ripe fruit Perry Creek 2007 Altitude 2401 $40. A dry, tannicly dessicated wine largely lack- flavor without being cloying. You’ll find blackber- Dark Forest Syrah (El Dorado); $28. ing in fruit. Tastes of alcohol and pepper, with 90 ries, bacon and black pepper. —S.H. just a sprinkle of blackberry juice. —S.H. A distinctive Syrah that shows great concentration in the focused blackberry, sweet leather, dark Niner 2006 Bootjack Ranch Syrah chocolate, mineral and black pepper flavors. 87 (Paso Robles); $20. A good wine, dry PETITE SIRAH Beyond the power, the wine is bone dry, soft in and firm in tannins, although it’s a bit soft and acidity and quite tannic. The end result is impres- lacking in structure. The flavors are just fine, of C. Beck 2007 Petite Sirah (Napa sive, and ready to drink now. —S.H. briary blackberry jam, sprinkled with crushed 92 Valley); $38. A very good, even noble black pepper. Drink now. —S.H. Petite Sirah whose classic structure expresses the Kendric 2007 Syrah (Shenandoah variety’s personality in an elegant way. Tannic and 89 Valley (CA)); $21. A rich, dry wine, Wild Oak by St. Francis 2007 dry, it’s a big, fruity wine, with notes of blackber- soft and velvety in tannins. It feels satisfying all 86 Syrah (Sonoma County); $38. This ries, coffee, dark chocolate and tar. Now–2013. the way through. Not super-big in fruit, but is a jammy wine with raspberry and currant fla- —S.H. nuanced, offering layers of blackberries, currants, vors, accented with pepper, anise and cocoa, with dark chocolate, herbs, leather and pepper. One of a coating of sweet oak. It’s fundamentally dry, and Concannon 2006 Heritage Petite the finer Syrahs to come out of the Sierra a little simple in structure. Good now with grilled 92 Sirah (Livermore Valley); $50. A Foothills this year. Ready now. —S.H. steak and chimichurri sauce. —S.H. huge wine, power-packed in richness. Cherries,

WineMag.com | 109 BUYING I GUIDE chocolate, raspberries, currants, licorice, even anise and cedar flavors. Feels a bit sharp, with a Niner 2007 Bootjack Ranch San- suggestions of spicy pecan pie flood the palate cut of mint. Drink now. —S.H. 83 giovese (Paso Robles); $24. Tart in deliciously. Then the tannins kick in, and fierce acidity, with simple cherry flavors that taste baked they are. Acidity is fine, and the finish is bone Concannon 2007 Nina’s Cuvee into a pie. But the finish is fully dry. Tannic, too, dry. Drink this superior Petite Sirah now, and it 83 Petite Sirah (Livermore Valley); with the result that the mouthfeel is hard as nails. should age for many, many years. —S.H. $30. Smells and tastes over-oaked; a little too —S.H. acidic and thin in flavor. The oak tannins are Dashe Cellars 2007 Todd Brothers strongly astringent. —S.H. Paoletti 2008 Fiore Sangiovese Ranch Petite Sirah (Alexander Val- 91 (Napa Valley); $20. Tastes as sweet as ley); $35. This lovely Petite Sirah preserves the 82 Glen Ellen 2007 Proprietor’s raspberry or cherry jam, with a cut of citrusy acid- variety’s full-bodied richness, but the tannins are 83 Reserve Petite Sirah (California); so gentle, it’s drinkable now. Shows deep, ripe fla- ity. This rustic wine also has some firm, furry tan- $10. A bit thin and rugged, but gets the red wine vors of blackberries and black currants, with nins. —S.H. job done, with cherry, plum and black pepper fla- meaty notes of grilled beef and a chocolaty, pep- vors that finish dry. —S.H. pery finish. Lush and complex, it drinks beauti- Venteux 2007 Grenache (Paso fully with grilled steak, and will elevate a gourmet Robles); $28. Soft, sweet and Porty, Pennywise 2008 Petite Sirah (Cali- 82 hamburger. —S.H. with sugared flavors of red cherry jam and red fornia); $12. Comes down on the hard, 83 currants. Feels hot and prickly in the mouth. — rough side of the Petite Sirah spectrum, with Concannon 2006 Reserve Petite S.H. 88 Sirah (Livermore Valley); $38. Hard jagged tannins and dry flavors of cola, green mint, in tannins and acidic, this is a pretty unrelieved blackberries, bacon and black pepper that turn wine when it comes to palate enjoyment. It’s not bitter toward the finish. —S.H. offering much, but there is a big heart of black- Galante 2008 Olive Hill Petite berries and dark, ripe cherries, leading to specu- Eberle 2008 Barbera (Paso Robles); Sirah (Carmel Valley); $40. An awk- lations about ageability. Since this is Petite Sirah, 82 86 $26. Dry, robust and gritty in tannins, it’s likely to gradually soften and mellow for at ward wine whose chief problem is the mouthfeel. this country-style wine also has a hefty dose of least ten years. —S.H. It’s bone dry and sharp, with unripe green flavors acidity. Its blackberry flavors are tinged with and harsh acidity. Not going anywhere, so drink earthy notes of coffee and tobacco. Needs some- Perry Creek 2007 Altitude 2401 up. —S.H. 87 Fair Play Farms Petite Sirah (El thing rich and oily, like lasagna. —S.H. Dorado); $28. Soft and dry, this Petite Sirah Mutt Lynch 2007 Canis Major Lava Cap 2007 Reserve Barbera has delicious, mouthfilling flavors of blackberries, 82 Petite Sirah (Dry Creek Valley); (El Dorado); $18. Too soft and sweet, milk chocolate, black licorice and pepper, set off $25. Dry, bitter and tannic. Mouth-numbing 81 like melted raspberry jam. Feels tired and with firm tannins. It’s quite a nice full-bodied astringency overwhelms the modest blackberry wine that needs rich fare, like short ribs, beef fruit. Ready now. —S.H. syrupy. —S.H. tacos or beef stew, made with the wine. —S.H. Rosa d’Oro 2008 Estate Grown Mounts 2007 Estate Grown Petite GRENACHE 80 Barbera (Clear Lake); $20. Too sweet 86 Sirah (Dry Creek Valley); $32. in sugary blackberry jam to earn a higher score, Heavy tannins, which accentuate the acids, lock Zaca Mesa 2007 Grenache (Santa but if that’s your liking, go for it. —S.H. this wine down now, making it astringently dry Ynez Valley); $32. This spectacular and tart. Underneath all that are deep, earthy fla- 95 100% Grenache is a huge success. It’s so deli- vors of blackberries, coffee and pepper. Doesn’t cious, you can hardly stop drinking it. Just oozes DOLCETTO seem to be ageworthy, so drink up. —S.H. in raspberry and red cherry purée and Villa Andretti 2008 Dolcetto (Cali- Beaver Creek 2007 Horne Ranch caramelized, smoky oak richness, yet is thor- fornia); $33. Super-high in acids, Petite Sirah (Lake County); $24. oughly dry. An amazing, unforgettable wine that 82 84 almost sour, and tannic too, with dry flavors of Soft and one-dimensional, but with some pretty establishes a new benchmark for California bitter cherries. If this is your kind of wine, break flavors, this is a wine to drink now. Shows black- Grenache from this winery that was an early pio- berries, black currants and black pepper, with a neer in Rhône varieties. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. out the rich meats, butter and cheese and enjoy. touch of raisins. —S.H. —S.H. Minassian-Young 2007 Grenache J. Rickards 2007 Brown Barn Vine- 83 (Paso Robles); $22. A simple wine, Rosa d’Oro 2007 Dolcetto (Lake 84 yard Petite Sirah (Alexander Val- with cola, herb and raspberry tea flavors that are 80 County); $18. After the sulfur smell ley); $24. Shows the thick, furry tannins Petite dry, but have a sharp mouthfeel. Seems unevenly blows off, this wine remains tough in acids and Sirah is known for, with some good black currant, ripened, with awkward tannins. —S.H. tannins. —S.H.

110 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 tration this winery’s Port-style wines used to have. Brander 2009 Au Naturel Sauvi- OTHER RED WINES —S.H. 92 gnon Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley); $32. There’s no oak on this wine, so it’s hard to Trinchero 2007 Central Park West Prager NV Noble Companion believe it’s this rich and complex. The flavors are 86 Vineyard (St. Helena); 83 Tawny Port (Napa Valley); $65. of citrus fruits, white peaches and tart green $50. The underlying wine is thin in fruit, so what Harsh and hot in alcohol, and completely lacking apples. Hard to say why it’s so good, beyond some stars is oak, with its toasty, caramelized aromas the richness of fruit for balance, this Port-style fabulous contribution from the vineyard that and flavors. It’s also fiercely tannic. You’ll find wine offers only modest chocolate and cherry fla- offers a complex minerality. Best of all is the racy some briary blackberries and blueberries, but the vors. Ridiculously overpriced. —S.H. acidity. Brilliant with shellfish. —S.H. wine illustrates why Petit Verdot is best used as a blender. —S.H. Galante 2009 Estate Bottled ROSÉ 92 Sauvignon Blanc (Carmel Valley); Minassian-Young 2007 Mourvèdre $25. Easily as good as the richly dramatic 2008. 85 (Paso Robles); $23. A pleasantly dry La Rochelle 2009 Pinot Noir Rosé Galante is proving itself a serious player in the wine, with cherry and cocoa flavors that finish in a 90 (Santa Lucia Highlands); $18. A Sauvignon Blanc sweepstakes. Oak-aged, the swirl of licorice and cinnamon spice. It’s a soft, delightful wine that fulfills the blush require- wine is wonderfully dry and crisp, with citrus, fruity sipper with a touch of heat from high alco- ments of absolute dryness, zesty crispness and melon and fig flavors that are entirely ripe, and hol. —S.H. tantalizing flavor. Made from a blend of free run finish in a swirl of peppery spice. Editors’ and press juice, it’s silky and clean in the mouth, Choice. —S.H. Paoletti 2006 Malbec (Napa Val- with nuanced flavors of raspberry, strawberry, cin- ley); $32. Very dry and tannic, this Mal- Brander 2009 Purisima Mountain 85 namon spice and vanilla. One of the best rosés bec has an unrelieved toughness in the mouth, Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Val- out there. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 91 despite some good cherry flavors. The texture is ley); $25. So pure and clean, as fine an example just too hard, and shows some bitterness in the Longoria 2009 Cuvée June Pink of Sauvignon Blanc as exists in California. Only finish. Drink now. —S.H. Wine (Santa Barbara County); free run juice is used, so there’s no bitterness at 85 all, just ripe, exotic flavors of limes, lemons, $22. Made from Syrah and Grenache, this rosé is Paoletti 2007 Nero Cuvée Speciale grapefruits, minerals and flowers. Compelling, nicely crisp, with low alcohol. It’s a little heavy in Nero d’Avola (Napa Valley); $36. and a very great food wine for just about anything 85 cherry and raspberry fruit flavors, but easy to like The variety is important in Sicily. In California, that needs a crisp, dry white. —S.H. over a burger. —S.H. just about the only winery producing it is Pao- letti. It has made a very dry, tannic and rustically Dry Creek Vineyard 2009 Sauvi- Glen Ellen 2009 Zinfandel Rosé astringent wine, with bitter cherryskin flavors. gnon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley); $16. (California); $10. Light and sweet, with 90 Drink now. —S.H. 82 Dry, dry, dry is the name of the game with this raspberry jelly flavors and lots of acidity. —S.H. Sauvignon Blanc. It’s rich in Meyer lemon, kaffir Rosa d’Oro 2008 Estate Grown lime and pineapple flavors, with intense, zesty Longevity 2009 Syrah Rosé (Con- Primitivo (Clear Lake); $18. So acidity for clean balance, and the finish is spicy 81 tra Costa County); $18. acidic it’s sour, and the fruit flavors disappear in a 82 Heavy and and stimulating. A beautiful cocktail wine to get a tart swirl of wintergreen. Acceptable, but just dull, with softly candied raspberry and currant fancy dinner started. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. barely. —S.H. flavors. —S.H. Mauritson 2009 Sauvignon Blanc 90 (Dry Creek Valley); $17. Mauritson DESSERT WINES CALIFORNIA has been building up a pretty good track record with their unoaked Sauvignon Blanc. This ’09 Prager 2006 Tomas Imogene’s WHITE WINES shows the balance of the vintage, with excellent 85 Vineyard Port (Napa Valley); $52. acidity, modest alcohol and complex varietal fla- Smooth and velvety, with chocolate-cherry fla- SAUVIGNON BLANC vors that range from citrus fruits and apples to vors, but the sweetness tails off quickly, disap- spices and gooseberries. It’s unusually good for pointing the palate. Good and sound, but lacks Lancaster 2009 Samantha’s Estate the price. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. the continuing richness you want in a true Port- 93 Sauvignon Blanc (Alexander Val- style wine, especially at this price. —S.H. ley); $24. A worthy white wine to stand beside Brander 2009 Sauvignon Blanc the winery’s estate red. Made from a single vine- 89 (Santa Ynez Valley); $15. Shows the Prager 2005 Royal Escort Paladini yard, it’s absolutely dry and brilliantly crisp in dryness and raciness of all Brander’s Sauvignon 85 Vineyard Port (Napa Valley); $72. acidity, with subtle, complex flavors of white Blancs, with lovely, delicious citrus fruit, lemon- There’s some richness in this chocolate- and peach, citrus fruits, minerals and white flowers. A grass, vanilla, honeysuckle and spice flavors. Just a cherry-flavored wine, but it really falls off quickly, touch of oak adds the perfect note of toast. Very delight to drink, at a great price. Editors’ leading to a thin finish. Lacks the sweet concen- fancy and upscale. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Choice. —S.H.

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Dry Creek Vineyard 2009 Fumé Blanc (Monterey); $18. Good citrus fruit fla- Ca’ Momi 2009 Sauvignon Blanc 89 Blanc (Sonoma County); $12. This vors, along the lines of grapefruits, limes and 85 (Napa Valley); $15. A very nice is a delicious, balanced Sauvignon Blanc that’s the Meyer lemons, accompanied by zesty acidity Sauvignon Blanc at a fair price. It’s dry, crisply equal of many wines costing much more, which mark this bone-dry Sauvignon Blanc. It really tart and citrusy, with flavors of lemons, grape- makes it a great value. It features lemon and lime scours the mouth clean. Very nice with puff pas- fruits and limes. Leaves the palate clean and flavors made richer by notes of pineapples and try mushroom appetizers, bruschetta with goat stimulated. —S.H. honeysuckle. Entirely unoaked, it’s a great cock- cheese and roasted red peppers, or crudités with tail sipper. Best Buy. —S.H. a garlicky sour cream dip. —S.H. Little Black Dress 2009 Sauvignon 85 Blanc (California); $11. A vibrantly Robert Pepi 2008 Sauvignon Blanc Kenwood 2009 Sauvignon Blanc fruity wine, with lemon, lime, pineapple and (California); $11. Fills an important 89 (Sonoma County); $13. Made in a grapefruit flavors brightened with zesty acidity. niche in California whites, a bone-dry, tartly crisp, 87 wonderfully dry, crisp style, Sauvignon Blancs like It’s basically dryish to off-dry, with a touch of minerally wine that gets the mouth watering. this fill a much-needed niche in fruit-heavy Cali- honey on the finish. Good price for an easy cock- With pleasant citrus, floral and peppery spice fla- fornia. It’s zesty and minerally, with lemon, lime tail sipper. —S.H. vors, it’s perfect as a cocktail sipper with appetiz- and grapefruit flavors. Beautiful as a cocktail sip- ers, like puff pastries, grilled veggies, toast rounds Morgan 2009 Sauvignon Blanc per, or with the perfect roast chicken. —S.H. with goat cheese. Best Buy. —S.H. 85 (Monterey); $15. Bone dry and tart in acidity, both of which are nice, with mouthwater- Justin 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Paso Line 39 2009 Sauvignon Blanc ing lemon, lime and grapefruit flavors. Would be Robles); $15. 87 (Lake County); $10. The curve on this 88 Aims for the New better if not for some green feline notes that are Zealand style, and largely gets it right. It’s a bone- wine has been going up and up, and this ’09 is almost sour. —S.H. dry, acidic wine, with a steely minerality and fla- their best yet. It’s bone dry and savory in acids, with ultraclean citrus, mineral and white flower vors of tart citrus fruits, like lemons, limes and Six Sigma 2009 Michael’s Vineyard flavors. Just delicious as a cocktail sipper. Best grapefruits. This minimalist approach is sorely Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County); welcome in the lineup of California whites. Edi- Buy. —S.H. 85 $28. Nicely dry and crisp, with mouthwatering tors’ Choice. —S.H. Six Sigma 2009 Bootleg Limited citrus fruit, lemongrass, gooseberry and mineral flavors. Marred by excessively unripe feline notes, Mutt Lynch 2009 Fou Fou le Blanc Release Sauvignon Blanc (Lake 87 however, that bother the palate. —S.H. 88 Sauvignon Blanc (Central Coast); County); $34. Super-dry and acidically crisp, $14. Super-zesty in acidity, this unoaked Sauvi- this wine has green grass, citrus and white pepper Wrath 2009 San Saba Vineyard gnon Blanc also is dry and rich. It swamps the flavors. It’s austere, although the lean elegance Sauvignon Blanc (Monterey); $23. palate with lemon, lime, grapefruit, fig and green will pair well with shellfish. —S.H. 85 Nicely dry and crisply acidic, with a minerally grass flavors that finish long and spicy. Editors’ scour of stone that cleans the mouth and gets the Choice. —S.H. Brander 2009 Mesa Verde Vineyard tastebuds watering. The flavors are of cool-cli- Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Val- 86 mate lemons, lime and grapefruits. But shows a Trinchero 2009 Mary’s Vineyard ley); $22. With a green grassiness that justifies 88 Sauvignon Blanc (Calistoga); $24. considerable note of green, feline spray that low- the vineyard’s name, this is a New Zealand-style ers the score. —S.H. A wonderful Sauvignon Blanc, bone dry and wine. It’s bone dry and zesty in acidity, with citrus, tartly crisp, with mouthwatering flavors of hay and gooseberry flavors, and more than a little lemons, limes, grapefruits, minerals, vanilla and Ehret 2009 Sauvignon Blanc feline spray you’ll either love or hate. —S.H. peppery spices. Entirely unoaked, it’s a fine cock- 84 (Knights Valley); $16. Very clean and tail sipper, and great with savory little appetizers. zesty in acidity, with pure, fruity citrus and peach Cali 351 2008 Sauvignon Blanc —S.H. flavors. This unoaked, dryish Sauvignon Blanc is a 86 (Napa Valley); $20. Bone dry and nice cocktail sipper. —S.H. Babcock 2009 Estate Grown Sauvi- tartly crisp in acidity, this wine’s lemongrass and 87 gnon Blanc (Sta. Rita Hills); $18. grapefruit flavors are showing their age. It’s just Oak Grove 2009 Reserve Sauvi- Although there’s no oak on this wine, it has a spicy beginning to break up. Pretty good, but drink this 84 gnon Blanc (California); $8. Bone smokiness that could come from a drop of year. —S.H. dry and ultracrisp in acidity, with citrus and Grenache. There are also percentages of lemongrass flavors, this Sauvignon Blanc is very Chardonnay and Pinot Gris that fatten Sauvi- Concannon 2008 Reserve Sauvi- clean and invigorating. Better yet, the everyday gnon’s minerals and limes. Acidity is mouthwater- 86 gnon Blanc (Monterey County); price is right. Best Buy. —S.H. ingly high. This isn’t a great wine, but it is a $18. Nicely dry, acidic and minerally, with tart unique one, especially for Santa Rita Hills. —S.H. Meyer lemon, lime and pink grapefruit flavors. Six Sigma 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Suffers a bit from some green unripeness that 84 (Lake County); $16. Too strong in Darcie Kent Vineyards 2009 Rava suggests vegetable. Not too much, though, and green, feline aromas and flavors, indicating 87 Blackjack Vineyard Sauvignon pretty good for the price. —S.H. unripeness. The acids are strong, and the wine is

112 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 fully dry. Despite some citrus flavors, it really superripe California style, yet always retains a elegant. The flinty flavors are enriched with notes needs greater fruit to earn a higher score. —S.H. crisp, dry elegance. —S.H. of pineapples and green apples, while oak and lees give hints of buttered toast and sour cream. J. Rickards 2009 Croft Vineyard Shafer 2008 Red Shoulder Ranch A very fine, food-friendly wine that sommeliers 83 Sauvignon Blanc (Alexander Val- 93 Chardonnay (Carneros); $48. After should be aware of. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. ley); $18. If you like tart, green gooseberries in many years of cult stardom, Shafer’s Red Shoul- your white wines, this is for you. It has that rather der Ranch still rules. It performs the difficult feat Darcie Kent Vineyards 2008 vegetal, feline flavor, alongside riper lemons and of combining powerful richness with dry ele- 90 DeMayo Vineyard Chardonnay limes that finish basically dry and crisp. —S.H. gance. The pineapple, Meyer lemon and kaffir (Livermore Valley); $24. A good, drily tart, lime flavors are undergirded with a steely miner- Chablis-style Chardonnay, with crisp acidity and Titus 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa alty, while oak and lees add rich tiers of interest. stony minerality. Shows interesting flavors of 83 Valley); $20. Dry and crisp, with good The 2008 is tarter than usual, making it a good pineapples, tangerines, honeysuckle and cinna- varietal flavors of citrus fruits and lemongrass. foil against lobster risotto or grilled salmon with a mon spice. —S.H. But this wine is also very potent in unripe, green tropical fruit salsa topping. —S.H. notes that include the notorious feline compo- Dierberg 2008 Steel Chardonnay nent. That lowers the score. —S.H. Stonestreet 2008 Gravel Bench 90 (Santa Maria Valley); $32. Made 93 Chardonnay (Alexander Valley); without any oak influences, this wine shows the Buttonwood Farm 2009 Zingy $55. Quite oaky, with vanilla and caramelized splendors of great Santa Maria Chardonnay. It’s 82 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Val- meringue notes dominating, but underneath is a marked by complex flavors of Meyer lemons, ley); $18. Sweet and sour, with simple pineap- dry, crisp Chardonnay of enormous size. It’s min- pineapples, orange zest and honeysuckle, and is ple, mint and orange flavors, and a cut of tart erally, with a rich vein of pineapples and man- beautifully bright in crisp acidity. Nice with fresh acidity. —S.H. goes. Decant for a while, and don’t serve too cold. crab. —S.H. —S.H. Estraié 2007 Sauvignon Blanc MacRostie 2008 Chardonnay 81 (North Coast); $18. Dry, tart in acidity Stonestreet 2008 Red Point 90 (Sonoma Coast); $25. A very good, and vegetal, this Sauvignon Blanc isn’t ripe. It 93 Chardonnay (Alexander Valley); useful Chardonnay that’s easy to drink, yet also tastes like green beans with just a hint of citrus. $55. This very fine Chardonnay has a stony, min- quite complex. Brisk and crisp in acidity, it shows —S.H. erally component, like a lick of cold steel. That citrus mineral, green apple and floral notes, vibrancy leads to rich pineapple and green apple touched with smoky oak. —S.H. purée flavors, enriched with cinnamon spices, CHARDONNAY toasty oak and creamy lees. It’s a complex, ele- Molnar Family 2008 Poseidon’s gantly dry wine that will pick up bottle nuances 90 Vineyard Chardonnay (Carneros); Stonestreet 2008 Upper Barn over the next 2–3 years. —S.H. $25. The cool vintage has given this Chardon- 96 Chardonnay (Alexander Valley); nay a steely, minerally austerity, like Chablis. Its $65. A monster Chardonnay, massive yet bal- Dierberg 2007 Chardonnay (Santa pedigreed origins and superior winemaking are anced. Shows fantastically ripe pineapple, golden 92 Maria Valley); $32. A lovely Chardon- evident in the overall balance. Dry and crisp in mango, lemon chiffon pie, buttered toast, crème nay, bone dry and rich, that shows how well this acidity, it’s a racy wine, with stone-licked citrus, brûlée and cinnamon spice flavors, brightened cool Santa Barbara valley can develop the vari- apricot and peach flavors. —S.H. with crisp, clean acidity. Almost a food group in ety. With crisp acidity and a tang of minerals, the itself. Reserve this for your boldest, most upscale wine is citrusy and floral, with opulent notes from Cali 351 2007 Chardonnay (Napa fare, like lobster. —S.H. oak barrels and creamy lees. —S.H. 89 Valley); $30. This is one of the drier, steelier Chardonnays on the market. It shows fla- Stonestreet 2008 Broken Road Clos La Chance 2008 Biagini Vine- vors of Meyer lemons, limes and tart white 95 Chardonnay (Alexander Valley); 91 yard Chardonnay (Santa Cruz peaches, with a tantalizing acidity that makes the $55. This is an intense, nervy Chardonnay, rich Mountains); $35. Shows a deft hand at bal- mouth water. Trades opulence for elegance, a in acids and minerals that offer a tang to the ancing all the elements. Ripe, citrusy tropical nice wine for roasted salmon and sweet summer palate. It’s also dazzlingly rich, with complex fla- fruits and green apples, oak, minerals, racy acid- corn. —S.H. vors of pineapples, honeysuckle and buttered ity, lees and the byproducts of malolactic fermen- toast. Shows extraordinary concentration tation all come together to produce a rich, Concannon 2008 Reserve throughout the long, spicy finish. —S.H. complex, fruity young Chardonnay. Gets better 89 Chardonnay (Livermore Valley); as it warms in the glass. —S.H. $20. Drier and earthier than many other Stonestreet 2008 Lower Rim Chardonnays, this one is easy to drink and food 94 Chardonnay (Alexander Valley); Windsor Sonoma 2008 Chardon- friendly. It shows oak-inspired flavors of pineap- $55. Ultrarich, an oily, unctuous wine offering 91 nay (Russian River Valley); $20. ples and vanilla, with a creamy, leesy texture. tiers of pineapples, pears, limes and mangoes, This is a firm, dry, minerally Chardonnay. It’s not Nice with poached salmon with roasted new enriched with sweet, smoky oak. Made in the blockbuster rich, but it is clean and vibrant and potatoes on a summer evening. —S.H.

WineMag.com | 113 BUYING I GUIDE

Groth 2008 Chardonnay (Napa ples and apricots, while oak adds notes of but- pineapples and pears. This is a fine everyday 89 Valley); $29. Shows rich, forward tered toast and caramel. Feels like it wants to be Chardonnay at a fair price. —S.H. pineapple tart and crème brûlée flavors that are richer than it is, but it’s elegant. —S.H. satisfying and dry. Delicious and spicy, although Nickel & Nickel 2008 Searby Vine- it’s just a bit sharp. Drink now. —S.H. Clos La Chance 2008 Liebler Vine- 85 yard Chardonnay (Russian River 87 yard Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Valley); $45. Pretty severe, an acidic, raspingly Francis Ford Coppola 2008 Sar- Mountains); $35. Made in the popular style dry wine and even a tannic one. Shows an astrin- 88 alee’s Vineyard Reserve Chardon- of ripe fruit, oak and soft creaminess. The pineap- gency rare in Chardonnay, even though there are nay (Russian River Valley); $25. A pretty ple jam, buttered popcorn and vanilla flavors are some good pineapple and buttered toast flavors. good Chardonnay, dry and crisp and minerally. It attractive and brightened by crisp acidity. —S.H. Not an ager. —S.H. comes from this famous vineyard in the heart of the southern valley, and shows proper flavors of Irony 2008 Chardonnay (Napa Val- Nickel & Nickel 2008 Truchard green apples and peaches, with a firm minerality 87 ley); $13. Clean, brisk and balanced, 85 Vineyard Chardonnay (Carneros); and fine acidity. Not particularly rich, but inter- with good varietal flavors of pineapples, limes, $45. One of the leanest, most severe Chardon- esting and complex, and a good companion to peaches and exotic tropical fruits, brightened nays out there. In its favor is extreme dryness, food. —S.H. with zesty acidity. This is a good price for a classic elegance and a refreshing minerality. But the cit- California Chardonnay. —S.H. rus flavors are so thin, there’s just not much going Jekel 2008 Gravelstone Chardon- on, and a little oak doesn’t help. Simply lacks rich- nay (Arroyo Seco); $13. 88 A clean, Rutherford Hill 2008 Chardonnay ness. —S.H. brisk Chardonnay made from this small, cool part 87 (Napa Valley); $21. Lean and miner- of Monterey County’s Salinas Valley. Shows its ally, this Chard offers lime and white peach fla- Sonoma-Cutrer 2006 The Cutrer region’s bright acidity, and also its long hangtime vors that finish bone dry and clean. It’s not a rich Chardonnay (Russian River Val- flavors of pineapples, peaches, green apples, limes 85 wine, but it is very elegant, with a good scour of ley); $35. Released at the age of nearly four and minerals. Nothing fancy or showy, just a really bracing acidity. —S.H. years, this wine tastes a little sweet and tired, like nice Chard at a fair price. Best Buy. —S.H. melted apricot jam sprinkled with vanilla and cin- Villa Andretti 2009 Chardonnay namon, with dried fruit and herbal notes. Drink Tor Kenward 2008 Durell Vineyard (Napa Valley); $28. Not very now before it goes further downhill. —S.H. Chardonnay (Russian River Val- 87 88 Chardonnay-like, more like a Viognier or Pinot ley); $53. Dry, tart and citrusy. Offers stream- Gris with its aromatic floral, tropical fruit, citrus, Sonoma-Cutrer 2008 Chardonnay lined flavors of lemons, limes, tannic herb tea and melon and spice aromas and flavors. Still, it’s very (Sonoma Coast); $24. A solid, direct minerals, with oak and lees adding much-needed 85 tasty, and dry as well, with a crisp spine of miner- Chardonnay. Doesn’t offer a whole lot of com- richness. It’s elegant in a Chablisian way, but ally acidity. —S.H. plexity, but it’s dry and creamy, with spicy, oak- trades fruity opulence for a more complex, con- inspired pineapple and green apple flavors. noisseur’s austerity. Drink now, and don’t over- Leto 2008 Chardonnay (Carneros); —S.H. chill. —S.H. 86 $30. This is a dry, firmly crisp Chardon- Brophy Clark 2008 Chardonnay nay, with pineapple, apricot, mineral and vanilla Three Saints 2008 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley); $20. 87 (Santa Maria Valley); $20. Very flavors. It’s somewhat simple and direct, but very 85 This bright and acidic, with the savory taste of a sour clean and zesty. Nice for drinking now. —S.H. pretty good everyday Chardonnay shows slightly lemondrop candy. If you’re sensitive to acidity sweet flavors of peaches, pineapples and mangoes you’ll find it tart. But it’s deliciously layered, with Paoletti 2008 Chardonnay (Russ- brightened with crisp acidity. You could even tiers of buttered toast, vanilla and spice. —S.H. 86 ian River Valley); $26. Sweet and make a summertime wine cooler with it. —S.H. oaky, this Chard tastes like a vanilla and caramel Carmel Road 2008 Chardonnay cream soda, with alcohol and a squirt of pineap- Magistrate 2008 Limited Produc- 87 (Monterey County); $18. This is a ple essence. Defines the superripe, opulent style, 84 tion Chardonnay (Napa Valley); good, sound, everyday Chardonnay. It’s very dry without much complexity. —S.H. $20. Made in the popular style, with vanilla oak, and crisp in Central Coast acidity, with mineral- cream and sweet buttered popcorn notes domi- laded flavors of lemons, limes, apples and pineap- Dillon 2008 Barrel Fermented nating the pineapples, apricots and peaches. Pro- ples, touched with vanilla and buttered toast. 85 Chardonnay (Yountville); $23. Dry, duction was 8,093 cases. —S.H. —S.H. crisp and austere, although it’s elegant in its own way. Shows citrus, mineral and lees flavors, with Prager 2006 Aria White Port Castello di Amorosa 2008 Bien some creamy, buttered toast notes. —S.H. 84 Chardonnay (Napa Valley); $49. 87 Nacido Vineyard Chardonnay Not much going on in this Chardonnay-based (Santa Barbara County); $38. This is a good, Gnarly Head 2009 Chardonnay Port-style wine. Its not particularly sweet, with dry Chardonnay, marked by brisk acidity and a 85 (California); $11. Good and dry, with a basic white chocolate and pineapple cream fla- steely minerality. The fruit veers toward pineap- firm scour of acidity and an earthiness to the vors. —S.H.

114 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 Sonoma-Cutrer 2006 Les Pierres fruit flavors. That mars this otherwise clean, dry Babcock 2009 Naughty Little Hill- 84 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast); $36. and zesty Chardonnay. —S.H. 88 sides Pinot Gris (Sta. Rita Hills); Thin and dry, with oak and alcohol flavors mod- $23. A secret of Santa Rita Hills is how kind the estly enriched with a touch of pineapples, green CRU Winery 2008 Appellation terroir is to Pinot Grigio AKA Pinot Gris. Bab- apples and minerals. Sadly, this is not the glorious 82 Series Chardonnay (Arroyo Seco); cock expresses its crisply acidic, long hangtime Sonoma-Cutrer of the past. —S.H. $30. Very tart, almost sour in acidity, with unnat- varietal flavors in an unoaked way, with splendid urally sweet pineapple, buttered toast and citrus and tropical fruit flavors, girded by a steely CRU Winery 2008 Vineyard Mon- caramel flavors. —S.H. minerality. The wine, by the way, is dry, although 83 tage Chardonnay (Monterey it has a honeyed richness. —S.H. County); $24. A tartly acidic, slightly green Dancing Bull 2008 Vintage Blend wine, with mineral, peach, green grape and 82 Chardonnay (California); $12. This Longoria 2009 Pinot Grigio (Santa pineapple flavors. Turns sweet-and-sour on the simple Chardonnay is soft and sweet, with some 88 Barbara County); $19. Made the way finish. —S.H. vanilla oaky notes. It’s made in the popular style. Pinot Grigio should be. Bone dry and zesty in —S.H. acidity, it has citrus, mineral and floral flavors that CRU Winery 2008 Appellation finish with a scour of peppery spice. A brilliant 83 Series Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Hey Mambo 2008 Chardonnay cocktail sipper that will also complement savory Highlands); $30. Shows sweet-and-sour 82 (California); $13. Here’s a simple wine appetizers. —S.H. pineapple and orange fruit flavors, like a Chinese that tastes like a supermarket fruit juice blend of Morgan 2009 R&D Franscioni restaurant duck sauce. Lacks balance and sophis- peaches, mangoes and apricots. It’s soft and one- Vineyard Pinot Gris (Santa Lucia tication, but will please fans of the style. —S.H. dimensional and slightly sweet in the finish. —S.H. 87 Highlands); $17. As always with Morgan’s Darcie Kent Vineyards 2008 West Monthaven 2008 Chardonnay Pinot Gris, the 2009 is bone dry and ultracrisp in (Central Coast); $24. Pinnacles Vineyard Chardonnay 82 This Chardon- acidity, with mouthwatering citrus, apricot and 83 nay in a box is the equivalent of four regular bot- green apple flavors. Great as a cocktail sipper, (Monterey County); $24. Too acidic, almost tles, but it’s not a very good wine. It’s ultradry and especially with shrimp cocktail. —S.H. sour, and pretty sweet, with pineapple and orange acidic, with unripe, vegetal flavors that just flavors. Gets the Chardonnay job done, but seems approach citrus fruits. —S.H. Murphy-Goode 2008 Pinot Grigio pricey for what you get. —S.H. 87 (California); $12. Clean and crisp in Silvestri 2007 Bella Sandra acidity, this polished PG features citrus fruit, pear, Dillon 2008 Stainless Steel Fer- Chardonnay (Carmel Valley); $20. white flower and spice flavors. It’s a racy, mouth- mented Chardonnay (Yountville); 82 83 Even though this wine is nicely dry and crisp, it’s cleansing wine that’s nice as an apéritif as the day $23. Nicely dry, tart in acidity and clean, but fla- too vegetal, with a green bean taste. —S.H. comes to a close. —S.H. vor-wise, there’s not much going on. The tastes are of minerals and alcohol, with a squirt of citrus Oak Grove 2009 Reserve Chardon- Big House 2009 The Birdman Pinot juice. —S.H. 81 nay (California); $8. If this is the 86 Grigio (Monterey); $12. Dry and reserve, I’d hate to taste the regular. There’s zesty in mouthwatering acidity, this clean wine Mutt Lynch 2009 Unleashed almost no fruit, with only a drop of citrus swim- features upfront flavors of lemons, limes, grape- Chardonnay (Central Coast); $14. 83 ming in the alcohol and acidity. —S.H. fruits and oranges. It’s a nice cocktail sipper at a Fruit-juice sweet, like a pineapple, orange and good price. —S.H. peach drink, with high, almost sour acidity. Gets Q 2008 Chardonnay (Sonoma the Chardonnay job done. —S.H. 81 County); $17. Soft and sugary sweet, Francis Ford Coppola 2009 Presents with pineapple jam flavors. Lots of people will like 84 Bianco Pinot Grigio (California); Babcock 2008 Chardonnay (Santa it, but it’s a pretty common Chardonnay. —S.H. $11. Simple and fruity, with tart citrus flavors, like 82 Barbara County); $20. A bit vegetal, a lemon and lime fruit drink. Not much going on, and a bit sweet on the finish in pineapple candy. but it’s clean, dry and zesty. —S.H. Not particularly successful. —S.H. PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO Glen Ellen 2009 Proprietor’s Cobblestone 2008 Chardonnay Carr 2009 Turner Vineyard Pinot 84 Reserve Pinot Grigio (California); 82 (Arroyo Seco); $29. Sweet and sim- 91 Gris (Sta. Rita Hills); $20. Racy in $10. Good value in a dry, crisp white wine. ple in apricot and pineapple flavors, with a heavy acidity, this unoaked wine was bottled early to Shows nice, friendly flavors of citrus fruits, green coating of caramelized oak. Drinkable, but dis- preserve fresh fruitiness. It’s clean and dry in the apples and white peaches, with a mouthwater- agreeably fruit-juicy. —S.H. mouth, with fine, delicate flavors of citrus fruits, ingly clean cut of acidity. Best Buy. —S.H. apricots, white peaches, green apples and a touch Concannon 2008 Selected Vine- of honeysuckle and stony minerals. A brilliantly Oak Grove 2009 Reserve Pinot Gri- 82 yards Chardonnay (Central Coast); racy wine that needs no wood to be opulent and 84 gio (California); $8. Absolutely dry $10. Vegetal, with an asparagus edge to the citrus compelling. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. and tingly in acidity, this citrus-flavored wine is

WineMag.com | 115 BUYING I GUIDE clean and zesty. It’s a fine appetizer sipper for crisp, with zesty acidity brightening jammy pineap- mouth-cleansing. Try as an alternative to Sauvi- cleansing the palate. Serve it with little munchies, ple and vanilla flavors. But it’s too sweet, almost gnon Blanc or Pinot Grigio. Best Buy —S.H. like grilled veggies, goat cheese and crackers with like a dessert wine, and palls after a sip. —S.H. crab salad. Best Buy. —S.H. Villa Andretti 2009 Riesling (Napa Justin 2008 Viognier (Paso Rob- 87 Valley); $28. Very dry, this Riesling Swanson 2008 Pinot Grigio (Napa 84 les); $23. This is a dry, tart and ulti- shows tart acidity, with apricot, green apple, citrus 84 Valley); $21. Tastes old, even though mately uninteresting Viognier. It shows citrus, and floral flavors, and a tug of stony minerals. It’s it’s only from 2008, with some oxidized notes. It’s tropical fruit and floral flavors that are linear and a severe wine, but well-structured and elegant. a bone-dry wine, but those citrus and flower fla- direct. Needs greater richness, especially at this Fine as an apéritif sipper. —S.H. vors are tired. —S.H. price. —S.H. Prager 2007 Sweet Claire Late Bota Box 2009 Pinot Grigio (Cali- Oak Grove 2009 Reserve Viognier Harvest Riesling (California); $28. fornia); $19/3L. This boxed wine has 84 83 83 (California); $8. Watery, with barely Good for its apricot, vanilla and buttercream fla- some problems, but at the equivalent of $4.75 a any flavor at all. If you try, you’ll find some citrus vors, but really lacks the sweet richness that an bottle, and with the staying power of its vacuum fruit. But it’s clean, dry and crisp in acidity, and expensive dessert wine needs. It falls apart mid- technology, it’s a pretty good buy. Bone dry and serves a purpose at a decent price. —S.H. palate, and turns watery on the finish. —S.H. crisp, it has pleasant citrus fruit, vanilla and pep- pery spice flavors. Best Buy. —S.H. Stuart Cellars 2008 Limited Bot- Loredona 2009 Riesling (Mon- tling Viognier (California); $21. Loredona 2009 Pinot Grigio (Mon- 81 83 terey); $11. Made off-dry, with a sug- Dry and harsh, with overwhelming feline smells terey); $11. This wine’s citrus, apple, ary edge to the citrus, apple and flower flavors. 83 and tastes. —S.H. floral and vanilla flavors are dryish to off-dry. It’s a The acidity is tingly. Okay for an everyday sipper soft, simple wine that will appeal to folks who like if you like your white wines sweet. —S.H. a little sweetness in the finish. —S.H. MOSCATO Robert Pepi 2007 Pinot Grigio SÉMILLON Barefoot Bubbly NV Moscato (California); $11. Bone dry and nicely 83 Spumante (California); $11. This is crisp, and the price is right, but the wine itself has 85 Yorkville Cellars 2008 Randle Hill the winery’s off-dry sparkler. It’s super-clean and some problems. The fruits tend toward lean, tart Vineyard Sémillon (Yorkville High- crisp, with honeyed flavors of oranges and tan- 86 grapefruits, lemons and limes, with a touch of lands); $20. Notable for its dryness, crispness of gerines. A nice sip with fresh fruits, smoked ham, vegetable. —S.H. acidity and the brightness of the citrus fruit and asparagus wrapped in prosciutto. —S.H. honeysuckle flavors. Could be Sauvignon Blanc Francis Coppola 2009 Diamond Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi or Pinot Grigio, but whatever, it’s a very nice, Collection Emerald Label Pinot clean white wine. —S.H. 82 2008 Moscato (California); $8. Soft Grigio (California); $16. A semisweet wine, 84 and sugary sweet, with apricot, tangerine and cit- with apricot jam and citrus flavors, offset by crisp Castello di Amorosa 2006 Il Pas- ron flavors, this is a pretty, fairly simple wine. acidity. Turns cloying after a few sips. —S.H. sito Late Harvest Sémillon Good for drinking at picnics, with ham, fruit 85 (Sonoma County); $79. Very sweet, with hon- Jenica Peak 2008 Coastal Series salad. —S.H. eyed flavors of apricots, peaches and vanilla Pinot Grigio (California); $10. Sim- 82 crème brûlée, but lacks the acidity a sweet wine ple, thin and sugary, with sweet pineapple and Villa Andretti 2009 Moscato (Napa needs for liveliness. —S.H. peach juice flavors. —S.H. 83 Valley); $24. Super-sweet in honeyed richness, but that’s not enough to rescue this wine. It’s not fruity enough. Shows herb and VIOGNIER pineapple flavors, so that the sweetness is pretty WHITE BLENDS much all you get. —S.H. Volker Eisele 2008 Gemini Semil- Koehler 2008 Viognier (Santa lon-Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- Ynez Valley); $18. One of the cleaner, 91 91 ley); $25. brisker and more balanced Viogniers on the mar- RIESLING Made from Sémillon and Sauvignon ket. It’s bone dry and nicely crisp, with citrus, Blanc, this is a very dry, quite acidic white wine peach, guava, wildflower and mineral flavors. Bonterra 2009 Riesling (Lake that scrapes and scours the palate with tartness. It Racy and complex, and despite the power, it’s del- 88 County-Mendocino County); $13. shows flavors of citrus fruits, honeysuckle flowers icate. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Ultraclean and bright, as Bonterra’s wines nearly and vanilla. Good as a clean cocktail sipper, but always are, this Riesling shows good varietal fla- really needs savory little snacks, like pizza slices Clos La Chance 2009 Estate Viog- vors of citrus fruits, peaches, wildflowers and min- with chicken, prosciutto-wrapped mozarella, or 84 nier (Central Coast); $22. Nice and erals. It’s bone dry, and the acidity is wonderfully even paté on crackers. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

116 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 Brander 2009 Cuvée Natalie Ready now as an exotic alternative to a barrel- scoury mouthfeel. But for the price, it’s a fine 88 (Santa Ynez Valley); $28. A beauti- fermented Chardonnay. —S.H. bubbly. —S.H. fully clean, crisply dry wine that offers plenty of minerals, but doesn’t stint on the fruit. With cit- Darcie Kent Vineyards 2009 Rava Barefoot Bubbly NV Brut Cuvée rus, peach, tart green apple, gardenia and goose- 88 Blackjack Vineyad Grüner Velt- 85 (California); $11. You’ll find brisk, berry flavors, it’s super-drinkable with a wide liner (Monterey); $18. This is a very nice, ele- clean flavors of citrus fruits, vanilla wedding cake variety of foods. This unoaked blend consists of gant wine for cleansing the palate. It’s absolutely and yeast in this brut-style wine, which is totally Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Pinot Gris. Edi- bone dry, with zesty acidity and subtle flavors of dry. A bit scoury, but a good value in sparkling tors’ Choice. —S.H. lemons, limes, steely minerals, spices and a touch wine. —S.H. of honeysuckle. Places itself in the upper eche- Buttonwood Farm 2008 Devin lons of this variety in California. Editors’ 86 Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc- Choice. —S.H. AUSTRALIA Semillon (Santa Ynez Valley); $24. A nice, fairly rich wine made from this classic blend of Dry Creek Vineyard 2009 Wilson GRENACHE two varieties. It’s dry and crisp, with zippy citrus 87 Ranch Dry (Clarks- fruits made more complex with notes of peaches burg); $12. A beautiful Chenin, among the best R Wines 2007 Chateau Chateau Pergola Blewitt Springs Grenache and pears and a touch of spicy vanilla. —S.H. in California. Although it is dry, as the name sug- 94 gests, and very crisp in acidity, it’s so fruity it (McLaren Vale); $67. Remarkably well bal- Vina Robles 2009 White4 Huer- almost tastes off-dry. The flavors are of green anced for a wine at nearly 16% alcohol, this is huero (Paso Robles); $16. Lots to apples, lemons, limes and pineapples. Great as also quite fragrant and complex, boasting an array 86 an alternative to Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio. of scents ranging from slightly mushroomy, savory like in this creative blend of Vermentino, Best Buy. —S.H. notes through dried flowers and baking spices. Verdelho, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc. It’s well The texture is wonderfully lush and supple, while acidified, with citrus, orange blossom, peach, Longoria 2009 Clover Creek Vine- the flavors add fruit sweetness to the savory com- apricot, buttercream and mineral flavors. Just a yard Albariño (Santa Ynez Valley); ponents. Long on the finish. Drink now–2015. bit too sweet, though, with a sugary taste through- 87 $23. Acidity marks this wine, as well as extreme Imported by The Grateful Palate. Cellar Selec- out. —S.H. dryness. The result is mouth-cleansing, but it’s tion. —J.C. not without flavor. Strong in lemons, limes and Ca’ Momi 2009 Bianco di Napa pineapples, with a mineral component, it’s zesty Clarendon Hills 2007 Blewitt (Napa Valley); $10. A little sweet, like 85 and delicious. —S.H. Springs Grenache (Clarendon); a fruit juice blend of oranges and pineapples, but 93 $50. Blewitt + Grenache + 2007 = something nicely crisp, with balancing acidity and a firm magical, to judge from the two offerings tasted touch of minerals. It’s a sound house white wine SPARKLING WINES for this report. Clarendon Hills’s bottling is dense Best Buy. for everyday purposes. —S.H. and powerful yet doesn’t lose its way. Potent plum En Tirage 1992 Recently Dis- pudding and spice cake notes offer plenty of com- Big House 2009 White (California); gorged Extra Brut (Russian River plexity and richness, without excessive weight. $10. 91 83 Thin in flavor but dry and zesty, Valley); $60. The fruit on this 18-year-old brut Long and slightly warming on the finish. Drink this blend of five varieties delivers modest is largely gone, and what remains behind are now–2017. Imported by Wine Brokers Unlim- orange, peach and vanilla flavors. —S.H. complex tiers of toast, brioche, lees, roasted ited. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. hazelnuts and vanilla. A fascinating sparkler, J. Rickards 2008 Twilight (Sonoma totally dry and very crisp in acidity. Delightful to The Old Faithful 2005 Northern 83 County); $22. Sweet, but thin in fla- drink, and should continue to evolve in the bottle 92 Exposure Grenache (McLaren vor, with modest orange, vanilla and buttercream for years. —S.H. Vale); $38. Starts off with intriguing aromas of notes. Pretty much all you get is sugar and alco- coffee, clove and plum that segue into dark, hol. Mostly Sémillon, with some Muscat Canelli. Francis Coppola 2009 Sofia Blanc warming flavors. It’s full bodied, lush and almost —S.H. 86 de Blancs (Monterey County); $19. creamy in texture, with supple tannins that only Dry and rather scoury, with a rough mouthfeel. hint at their presence before fading into a long, But it’s clean and bone dry, and shows proper licorice-tinged finish. Best now–2013. Imported OTHER WHITE WINES sparkling wine flavors of citrus, vanilla, yeast and by USA Wine West. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. green apple. —S.H. Carlotta 2008 Alder Springs Vine- Yalumba 2006 Hand Picked Single 89 yard Marsanne (Mendocino); $32. Korbel 2008 Brut Made With 92 Site Moppa Block Grenache Quite dark in color, with a weird gold-orange hue, 86 Organically Grown Grapes (Cali- (Barossa); $70. So supple and lush that it but tastes clean and zesty. French oak barrel fornia); $16. This is a nice, dry sparkling wine, appears to demand early drinking, the Moppa aging gives a vanilla, buttered-toast edge to the rich in citrus, apple, yeasty brioche and spice fla- Block Grenache also features enough spice and apricot, papaya, orange and honeysuckle flavors. vors. The bubbles are a little ragged, giving it a leather to give it the requisite complexity in its

WineMag.com | 117 BUYING I GUIDE youth. Plummy fruit turns a bit chocolaty on the Rocland Estate 2008 Grenache scents of ground spices, leather and red cherries, long finish. Imported by Negociants USA, Inc. 90 (Barossa Valley); $21. Superripe but doesn’t seem to have the richness and depth —J.C. fruit, befitting a hot year, suggests early consump- of CH’s other Grenaches this year. Tart cherry- tion may be the best option for this supple, lus- berry fruit fades into finely textured tannins on Clarendon Hills 2007 Romas cious wine. There’s bits of spicy, leathery the finish. Drink now–2015. Imported by Wine 91 Grenache (Clarendon); $75. The complexity to go with the intense black cherry Brokers Unlimited. —J.C. rare Australian Grenache you might consider cel- fruit. Drink now–2013. Imported by Rocland laring for more than a couple of years, the 2007 Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. D’Arenberg 2008 The Custodian Romas features dark, plummy fruit accented with 87 Grenache (McLaren Vale); $19. D’Arenberg 2007 The Derelict hints of coffee and chocolate. It’s full bodied and Hints at cedar, spice and dark fruit on the nose, Vineyard Grenache (McLaren richly textured without being overly astringent, 89 then turns unexpectedly tart on the palate. The Vale); $29. The nose of this wine features some with a long finish. Drink 2012–2020. Imported tannins are soft, leaving the acidity to provide a delicately lifted floral scents, but also darker notes by Wine Brokers Unlimited. Cellar Selection. counterbalance to the ripe fruit. Drink now. of brandied cherries and asphalt. Give it some —J.C. Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. breathing time to let the tarry notes fade and allow the red cherry and cinnamon red-hot fla- Torbreck 2006 Les Amis Grenache R Wines 2008 Marquis Philips vors to emerge. Finishes long, mouthwatering Grenache (McLaren Vale); $18. 91 (Barossa Valley); $180. From vines 87 For and just a touch warming. Drink now–2014. all this wine’s ripeness and heat (16% abv), the planted more than a century ago, this is dark- Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. fruited Grenache that features hints of mint or aromas are surprisingly delicate, offering up strawberry and raspberry fruit compote. It’s full in camphor alongside ample spice. It’s full bodied Kilikanoon 2007 Prodigal body, with supple tannins, hints of chocolate and and supple-textured, round in the mouth without Grenache (Clare Valley); $30. This 88 touches of spice and warmth on the finish. Drink being overblown, finally finishing with a touch of superripe Grenache is supple and mouthfilling, now. Imported by The Grateful Palate. —J.C. alcoholic warmth. Seems ready to go now–2015. coating the palate with an array of chocolate and Imported by Torbreck. —J.C. cola richness. Some peppery, cinnamon-like aro- R Wines 2008 Bitch Grenache mas add a touch of nuance, but overall the (Barossa); $12. A decent introduction Clarendon Hills 2007 Clarendon impression is of slipping into an overstuffed chair 86 to Australian Grenache, a bit simple and one- Grenache (Clarendon); $45. The that’s comfortable at first but lacks the support 90 dimensionally cherry-fruited but clean, supple 2007 Clarendon is in a more feminine, approach- for a long-term stay. Imported by Old Bridge Cel- and easy to drink despite plenty of body, with just able style than Roman Bratasiuk’s other 2007 lars. —J.C. a bit of warmth on the finish. Drink now. Grenaches, featuring dried spices, watermelon Imported by The Grateful Palate. —J.C. and cherry aromas and fine—almost delicate— Yalumba 2006 Hand Picked Single tannins. Cherry-berry flavors finish with hints of 88 Site Tri-Centenary Vineyard Vine cinnamon and clove. Drink now–2015. Imported Vale Grenache (Barossa); $70. Tri-Cente- GRENACHE BLENDS by Wine Brokers Unlimited. —J.C. nary refers to the fact that these vines have lived in parts of three centuries, being planted prior to Grant Burge 2005 The Holy Trinity R Wines 2007 Chateau Chateau 1901. The 2006 isn’t the most profoundly com- 92 (Barossa); $46. The blend is 40% 90 Island Ebenezer Grenache plex of recent vintages, but instead offers remark- ably pure essences of cherries and berries, allied Grenache, 35% Shiraz and 25% Mourvèdre, and (Barossa Valley); $67. Fair warning: the alco- to a wonderfully silky texture that makes it the result is a compelling mix of dark, plummy hol level on this wine reaches 18.6%, which really awfully easy to drink. Imported by Negociants fruit with brighter hints of raspberry, liniment can’t help but be felt. It does deliver an impres- USA, Inc. —J.C. and dried spices. It’s full bodied and creamy in sive array of cherry, plum, chocolate and spice texture, finishing long and lush with hints of clove complexity, just don’t expect it to age gracefully Yangarra Estate Vineyard 2006 and coffee. While approachable now, this wine’s given its tenuous balance. Imported by The 88 High Sands Grenache (McLaren track record for aging suggests it should evolve Grateful Palate. —J.C. Vale); $80. A big, burly, concentrated through at least 2017. Imported by Wilson Grenache, Yangarra’s High Sands bottling seems Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —J.C. R Wines 2007 Marquis Philips G.G. capable of evolving nicely over the next 3–5 years, 90 Grenache (McLaren Vale); $20. although it is supple enough to drink now. Black D’Arenberg 2008 The Cadenzia Rather subdued in fruit on the nose, showing cherry preserves gain structure on the finish in 90 (McLaren Vale); $29. Cadenzia is the more vanilla and toast, but this really expands on the form of finely dusty tannins. Imported by term coined by McLaren Vale producers to the palate, delivering great fruit sweetness and Yangarra Estate Vineyard. —J.C. describe their proprietary blends; this one is nuance in a harmoniously round, supple package. roughly equal proportions of Grenache, Shiraz, Finishes long, warm and spicy at 15.5% alcohol. Clarendon Hills 2007 Hickin- Mourvèdre and Tempranillo. The result is a dark- Imported by The Grateful Palate. Editors’ 87 botham Grenache (Clarendon); fruited wine laden with hints of cola, cedar and Choice. —J.C. $45. The 2007 Hickinbotham features attractive spice. Moderately firm in structure, with a long,

118 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 slightly dusty finish; try 2012–2020. Imported by of leather, spice and cherry notes, medium body the finish. A notable value for drinking over the Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. and a fresh, vivacious finish. Considering it can next 6–12 months. Imported by American Wine probably be found for around $80 per case, this Distributors. Best Buy. —J.C. Gemtree 2007 Cadenzia Grenache- would make a great everyday wine for drinking 90 Tempranillo-Shiraz (McLaren over the next year or so. Imported by Negociants Fetish 2008 Playmates Shiraz - Vale); $20. The twist here is the inclusion of USA, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. 89 Mouvèdre (Barossa); $22. Leaving Tempranillo in the blend, resulting in a uniformly aside the suggestive name and packaging, this is a dark, plummy wine, amply framed by toasty oak. Schild Estate 2009 Old Bush Vine very soft, almost pillowy-tender 80% Shiraz It’s full bodied and lushly textured on the palate, 88 GMS Grenache-Mourvèdre-Shiraz blend, with a fair bit of complexity. It starts with then firms up and adds some spice on the finish. (Barossa); $15. A soft, cuddly Grenache-based scents of hickory, cedar and vanilla, adds plum Drink now–2017. Imported by Guardian of The (55%) blend, Schild’s GMS features red berry and black cherry fruit, then hints at espresso and Grape Imports. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. fruit with modest touches of cocoa and leather. black olive on the finish. Drink now. Imported by It’s very supple and round, easy to drink on its American Wine Distributors. —J.C. Henschke 2007 Johann’s Garden own. Probably best now and over the next year or 90 (Barossa); $38. The blend is 63% so. Imported by The Australia-New Zealand R Wines 2007 Luchador Shiraz Grenache, 19% Mourvèdre and 18% Shiraz, with Wine Connection. —J.C. 89 (South Australia); $19. Mixed aromas a hint of green to the otherwise dark, plummmy of vanilla, Christmas spices and brandied black flavors. It’s supple, silky in texture, ending with Penfolds 2007 Bin 138 Grenache- cherries give an almost dessert-like impression, touches of coffee and cedary spice. Drink 87 Mourvèdre-Shiraz (Barossa Val- although the wine is technically dry. The texture is now–2015. Imported by Negociants USA, Inc. ley); $27. Full bodied and supple almost to the creamy and luxurious, and the wine is very easy to —J.C. point of syrupiness, this interesting blend com- drink despite its considerable weight, balanced by bines hints of green peppercorns with bright a tart edge of acid on the finish. Drink now–2012. John Duval Wines 2008 Plexus cherry fruit. Turns tart, dusty and angular on the Imported by The Grateful Palate. —J.C. 90 (Barossa Valley); $40. For the past finish, suggesting it may improve with a couple of several years, Duval’s Plexus has been remarkably years in the cellar. Drink 2012–2017. Imported by R Wines 2007 Boarding Pass Shi- consistent in quality. The only indication here Foster’s Wine Estates Americas. —J.C. 87 raz (South Australia); $20. A bit that 2008 was a difficult vintage (because of the spicier than the other R Wines Shirazes, the 2007 heat) is this wine’s creamy immediacy, which sug- Torbreck 2008 Cuvée Juveniles Boarding Pass features mainly McLaren Vale gests early consumption (now–2015). The black- 85 (Barossa Valley); $22. Despite the fruit, offering blackberry tinged with coffee and berry fruit is fresh and briary, spiced with hints of presence of Shiraz and Mataro in the blend, this peppery spice. Turns tart, tangy, almost a bit cit- cedar and vanilla; lush and long on the finish. shows some of Grenache’s shortcomings in its rusy on the finish. Imported by The Grateful Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. straightforward, almost confected red berry aro- Palate. —J.C. mas and flavors. It’s a bold mouthful of fruit D’Arenberg 2007 The Ironstone that’s a bit syrupy in texture. Imported by R Wines 2007 Strong Arms Shiraz 89 Pressings (McLaren Vale); $65. The Torbreck. —J.C. 86 (South Australia); $11. On the red- Ironstone Pressings features enough rough edges der, crisper side of the Shiraz spectrum, with gen- at this stage to think it will benefit from a few tle touches of spice and vanilla to accent the years of cellaring. The tart cherry notes are angu- SHIRAZ raspberry fruit. It’s medium bodied and reason- lar, the tannins a bit chunky, but tea leaf and spice ably long on the finish. Drink now. Imported by notes provide ample complexity. Try in 2013. R Wines 2008 Marquis Philips Shi- The Grateful Palate. Best Buy. —J.C. Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. 90 raz (McLaren Vale); $18. A notable value, the 2008 Marquis Philips Shiraz displays a Torbreck 2006 The Steading slightly charred top note from its stay in Ameri- OTHER RED WINES 89 (Barossa Valley); $35. The 60% can oak, but also a pleasant mix of boysenberry, Grenache shows in this wine’s red-berry aromas coffee and vanilla flavors. It’s creamy and supple, Kilikanoon 2008 Killerman’s Run and flavors, while the 20% Mourvèdre imparts a with a soft, mocha-tinged finish. Drink 89 Shiraz-Grenache (Australia); $20. slightly horsey, leathery note. It’s full-bodied and now–2012. Imported by The Grateful Palate. A blend of two-thirds Shiraz, one-third Grenache, lushly textured, it just doesn’t seem quite as har- Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Kilikanoon’s entry-level blend is a soft, easygoing monious at this stage as some earlier vintages. combination of blackberries, cola, brown sugar Imported by Torbreck. —J.C. Razor’s Edge 2008 Shiraz- and cinnamon. Drink it over the next year or two. 90 Grenache (McLaren Vale); $12. Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. Oxford Landing 2007 GSM Fully ripe and verging on jammy, this 75-25 blend 88 Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvèdre is nonetheless charming, with raspberry fruit cos- D’Arenberg 2008 d’Arrys Original (South Australia); $8. A remarkable value, seted by lashings of vanilla. It’s round in the 88 Shiraz-Grenache (McLaren Vale); Oxford Landing’s GSM is a convincing argument mouth and exceedingly supple, picking up $19. Probably because of its youth, this wine in favor of blending. It offers a complex mélange intriguing dusty spice, cocoa and coffee notes on comes out of the chute a little tight and rubbery;

WineMag.com | 119 BUYING I GUIDE try giving it a quick decanting, or swirl it aggres- oak and smoke. The palate is hard and saturated, wine needs to mature. Imported by Winebow. sively in the glass to bring out the underlying cola with smack-down tannins that are surely due to Cellar Selection. —R.V. and blackberry aromas and flavors. Turns slightly the 46% Tannat in the blend. Syrah and Petit Ver- dusty on the finish, suggesting at least a few years’ dot are the remaining elements in this roasted, Prager 2009 Achleiten Stockkultur worth of drinkability. Imported by Old Bridge sweet, oaky wine that finishes with burnt marsh- 95 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Cellars. —J.C. mallow. Imported by Mallams Select Wines LLC. (Wachau); $69. A parcel of old vines in the —M.S. Achleiten Vineyard is trained on individual posts R Wines 2008 Darby & Joan Caber- rather than wires. Somehow this brings out enor- 87 net Sauvignon (South Australia); Bodegas Carrau 2007 Reserva Tan- mous minerality, the steely feel to the wine sug- $12. nat (Uruguay); $10. Like the D&J Chardonnay, this is a readily 83 Soupy and baked gesting long aging. Imported by Winebow. Cellar approachable, easy-drinking wine with good vari- on the nose, and not that firm or focused. The Selection. —R.V. etal character. Cassis fruit dominates, accented by palate is on the heavy side, with clipped, roasted slightly herbal notes suggestive of mint. The tan- plum flavors. Rustic and damp, and not doing a Rudi Pichler 2008 Wösendorfer nins are supple, adding an appropriately dusty lot to push the envelope for Uruguay. Imported Hochrain Grüner Veltliner edge to the finish. Drink now–2012. Imported by by Mallams Select Wines LLC. —M.S. 95 Smaragd (Wachau); $81. Stunningly beauti- The Grateful Palate. Best Buy. —J.C. Gimenez Mendez 2009 Identity ful wine, its pure fruit driven by its mineral and spice texture. This is impressive Grüner, tasting of 80 Tannat Rosé (Canelones); $15. Not OTHER WINES very lively or fruity. Vague aromas and flavors of the hard rocks and heat of the Wachau while nectarine and citrus are sticky, grabby and bland. keeping bright yellow and apple flavors. Age for R Wines 2008 Darby & Joan Not a good rosé by any measuring stick. Imported 4–5 years or more. Imported by Winebow. —R.V. 87 Chardonnay (South Australia); by Mallams Select Wines LLC. —M.S. $12. After eight months on lees, this unoaked F X Pichler 2008 Loibner Berg Chardonnay has picked up some mildly nutty, 94 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd custardy qualities that give added heft and AUSTRIA (Wachau); $NA. Pepper and minerality domi- nuance to its pear, pineapple and melon fruit. nate this elegant wine. It is still extraordinarily Drink it over the next six months or so. Imported GRÜNER VELTLINER young, its structure more important than the by The Grateful Palate. Best Buy. —J.C. beautiful green and white fruit flavors, crispened F X Pichler 2008 M Grüner Velt- by pineapple acidity. It will age for many years. R Wines NV Bitch Bubbly (South 96 liner Smaragd (Wachau); $NA. M Imported by Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. 84 Australia); $13. A carbonated pink stands for Monumental as in powerful, impres- blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this is a sive. This ripe, sweet Grüner is certainly that, a Prager 2009 Achleiten Grüner sweet, fruity wine that packs more punch than late-harvest wine of impeccable purity. Figs, 94 Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau); $60. Bracchetto d’Acqui but is otherwise similar. It’s mango and intense spice give an exotic feel to this Full in the mouth, packed with spice along with very fragrant and loaded with strawberries and opulent wine. It is beautifully layered, peeling tight acidity, white fruit juice and a lively edge of raspberries. Imported by The Grateful Palate. back wonderful flavors. Imported by Weygandt- acidity. This is an impressively rich wine that pre- —J.C. Metzler. —R.V. serves the tension of Wachau Grüner. Imported by Winebow. —R.V. F X Pichler 2008 Dürnsteiner Kellerberg Grüner Veltliner URUGUAY 96 Rudi Pichler 2008 Wösendorfer Smaragd (Wachau); $NA. An evocative spice Hochrain Grüner Veltliner RED WINES and caramel aroma combine with ripe yellow 94 Smaragd (Wachau); $81. Very concentrated peach. To taste, the peach comes through wine, as much in freshness as richness. So the Gimenez Mendez 2008 Identity strongly, while the fabulous taut structure keeps balance is just right, green fruit acidity allied to Cabernet Sauvignon (Canelones); the wine tightly wound with acidity and mineral- 87 ripe yellow fruits, mango and complex spices. Age $15. The best wine from this bodega. It’s focused ity. The final taste is just off dry. Imported by and spicy, with black fruit and depth to the nose Weygandt-Metzler. Cellar Selection. —R.V. for 4–5 years. Imported by Winebow. —R.V. and none of the weird, rubbery, roasted charac- teristics that are sometimes found in Uruguayan Rudi Pichler 2008 Wösendorfer Rudi Pichler 2008 Wösendorfer wines. Round on the palate, with black cherry 96 Kollmutz Reserve Grüner Veltliner 94 Kollmutz Grüner Veltliner and cassis. A good option for grilled meats. (Wachau); $97. This is the third vintage of Smaragd (Wachau); $60. Smooth wine, its Imported by Mallams Select Wines LLC. —M.S. Rudi Pichler’s Reserve from the Kollmutz Vine- smoky aromas leading to a ripe texture of spiced yard. It shows an extra richness over the already peach, baked apples and a fresh asparagus inten- Gimenez Mendez 2007 Identity concentrated Smaragd, a powerhouse of inten- sity. The wine has weight without any loss of 85 Red Blend (Canelones); $20. Dark, sity, spice, mango, oregano and lemon verbena freshness. Age for 4–5 years. Imported by roasted and smelling of licorice, root beer, savory crispness. The balance is already there, now the Winebow. —R.V.

120 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 Alzinger 2008 Steinertal Grüner Give it three years for the taut structure to freshness, allied to a pinch of spice. Yellow fruits, 93 Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau); $59. broaden out. Screwcap. Imported by Michael sprinkled with pepper, are given a firm lift of A brilliant, fresh wine, beautifully integrated, Skurnik Wines. —R.V. acidity. Imported by Vin Divino. —R.V. bringing together green apple, papaya and intense acidity. The texture has spice, nutmeg and Nikolaihof 2008 Im Weingebirge Nigl 2009 Senftenberger Piri ginger to go with the taut minerality. A wine for 92 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 89 Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal); $25. aging. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. Cel- (Wachau); $59. A beautiful wine that manages This bright wine bursts with crisp acidity as well lar Selection. —R.V. to have a great panoply of rich fruits and spices as layered pear and apple fruits. It is already a along with pure green apple acidity. It is intense, delicious wine, its vivid texture a foil to the edge Nigl 2008 Grüner Veltliner Trock- but so balanced and poised. Imported by Michael of spice. Screwcap. Imported by Michael Skurnik 93 enbeerenauslese (Niederösterre- Skurnik Wines. —R.V. Wines. —R.V. ich); $43. A wonderful viscous texture underlies a wine that is beautifully balanced between Rainer Wess 2009 Pfaffenberg Pichler-Krutzler 2008 Loibner sweetness and crispness. The honeyed flavors go 92 Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Krem- 89 Klostersatz Grüner Veltliner with ripe yellow nectarines and the wine glides stal); $35. Full, ripe wine, given great freshness (Wachau); $17. On the fresh side, with some around the mouth. Delicious now, but it will from its green fruit flavors. It is textured, with a rich texture, this is a finely balanced wine. surely age. Screwcap. Imported by Michael fine edginess followed by a light layer of acidity. Smooth flavors of pear, mango and ginger go with Skurnik Wines. —R.V. The aftertaste is mineral, austere. Imported by grapefruit acidity. Imported by Weygandt-Met- Russell Herman Selection. —R.V. zler. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Prager 2009 Wachstum Boden- 93 stein Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Felsner 2009 Alte Reben Rohren- Felsner 2009 Gedersdorfer Moos- (Wachau); $60. From vineyards at 1500 feet, 91 dorfer Leithen Reserve Grüner 88 burgerin Grüner Veltliner (Krem- this has a cool mountain feel to it. The minerality, Veltliner (Kremstal); $23. Big and rich, very stal); $15. A broad, rich wine with spice, pepper flint and acidity are major elements in this won- concentrated wine. It packs smooth pear, quince and a fine, fresh acidity. This is ripe, retaining a derfully crisp-textured wine, spiced with pepper and green plum fruits along with a touch of spice. good balance. Screwcap. Imported by Grape and salt. Imported by Winebow. —R.V. The acidity fits well in this delicious wine. Expectations (CA). —R.V. Imported by Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. Rainer Wess 2009 Loibenberg Domäne Wachau 2009 Terrassen 93 Grüner Veltliner (Wachau); $35. Pichler-Krutzler 2008 Dürnsteiner 87 Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Powerful, creamy wine with intense spice, quince 91 Supperlin Grüner Veltliner (Wachau); $16. Typical light and fresh Grüner, and lychee flavors, the acidity coming slowly (Wachau); $31. Powerful, cream-textured with an attractive burst of lemon acidity as well as through but never very apparent. Richness, con- wine, with a dry core of spice and tight mineral a creamy texture. Delicious, crisp wine. Screw- centration, with aging potenial. Imported by Rus- acidity. It has pear and baked apple flavors, with cap. Imported by Vin Divino. —R.V. sell Herman Selection. —R.V. dried apricot richness. An intense finish. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. Markus Huber 2008 Hugo Grüner Schmelz 2008 Höhereck Grüner 85 Veltliner (Niederösterreich); $NA. 93 Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau); $48. Domäne Wachau 2009 Achleiten Fresh lime and lemon aromas lead into a soft and Brilliant, fresh wine, crisp and showing rich fruit 90 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd creamy wine, with just a hint of spice and lychee. that bursts out of the glass. It has fresh-cut grass (Wachau); $38. Intensely flavored wine, Final grapefruit acidity renders the wine as crisp aromas, green fruits, a hint of pepper and the packed with both spice and acidity. The fruit is an as possible. Drink now. Screwcap. Imported by brightest acidity. Imported by Blue Danube Wine extension of the fresh face of the wine that con- Boutique Wine Collection. —R.V. Co. —R.V. trasts with weight and concentrated pepper and nutmeg flavors. Imported by Vin Divino. —R.V. Schmelz 2008 Pichl Point Grüner RIESLING 93 Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau); $44. Nigl 2009 Senftenberger Pellingen Rounded, creamy style, flavors of spice, pear 90 Privat Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal); Prager 2009 Wachstum Boden- juice, green herbs and uplifting acidity. There is a $43. Despite its richness, this is so fresh, the 96 stein Riesling Smaragd (Wachau); taut mineral structure that gives the wine bite acidity a delicious counterpoint to the rounded $70. A lovely wine. Ripe Riesling held under along with final acidity. Imported by Blue fruits. Soft spice and layers of pear juice give extra tension, its coiled white fruits creating the Danube Wine Co. —R.V. complexity. Screwcap. Imported by Michael crispest citrus character. The wine is just settling Skurnik Wines. —R.V. out on a long development, its steely edge and Nigl 2009 Alte Reben Grüner Velt- intense acidity promising many years. Imported 92 liner (Kremstal); $32. An aroma that Domäne Wachau 2009 Terrassen by Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V. is as much light citrus as richer fruit sets the 89 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd scene for this tight, mineral-driven wine. It has (Wachau); $26. While it has a rounded, rich F X Pichler 2008 Loibner Berg Ries- ripe, concentrated fruit, with definite acidity. texture, the wine also has just the right amount of 95 ling Smaragd (Wachau); $NA. A

WineMag.com | 121 BUYING I GUIDE rich, smooth wine, creamy-textured yet with Imported by Russell Herman Selection. Cellar Rainer Wess 2009 Riesling Trock- points of fresh zest, green plums and spiced apri- Selection. —R.V. 92 enbeerenauslese (Wachau); $42. cots. This is a beautifully balanced wine, just a The balance between rich sweetness and the touch of honey showing with a lively freshness. Schmelz 2008 Dürnsteiner Freiheit purest acidity is on a tightrope, with honey The finish just lasts forever. Imported by Wey- 94 Riesling Smaragd (Wachau); $56. pierced by crisp citrus and peach flavors. A fine gandt-Metzler. —R.V. Crisp, steely, deliciously perfumed wine. It shows and pure summation of the beauty of botrytised a tight mineral character balanced by the fresh Riesling. Imported by Russell Herman Selection. Prager 2009 Achleiten Riesling white currant and grapefruit flavors. The acidity —R.V. 95 Smaragd (Wachau); $65. Ripe and structure are important, promising good peaches and mango fruit join a crisp layer of aging. Imported by Blue Danube Wine Co. Cel- Rudi Pichler 2008 Weissenkirchen grapefruit freshness. A delicately balanced Ries- lar Selection. —R.V. 92 Achleiten Riesling Federspiel ling that shows just an edge of sweetness along (Wachau); $43. This is great Federspiel, the with a vibrant mineral texture. Like all Prager Josef Jamek 2008 Ried Klaus Ries- lightest and freshest style from the Wachau. It wines, this needs aging. Imported by Winebow. ling Smaragd (Wachau); $NA. Per- has a bone-dry steel line that cuts through the —R.V. 93 fumed, sweet aromas, but the palate is bone dry. crisp green fruits and pure apple juice vivacity. It could be aged, but is delicious now. Imported by Alzinger 2008 Steinertal Riesling The wine is tight, with a vibrant acidity, citrus, white currants and peach. A steely wine that Winebow. —R.V. Smaragd (Wachau); $62. So steely 94 needs a few years to really blossom. —R.V. and mineral-driven, this is an intensely crisp Domäne Wachau 2009 Achleiten wine, with concentrated fresh apple flavors over a Nigl 2009 Senftenberger Pellingen 91 Riesling Smaragd (Wachau); $46. texture that shows pear skins and orange zest. A rich style of wine, with a smooth and velvet tex- Acidity and spice combine on the finish. 93 Privat Riesling (Kremstal); $56. ture that brings out a creamy character. There is Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. Powerful, rich Riesling, its natural acidity freshness from green apple and peach juice fla- rounded out with ripe white fruit flavors, a touch vors, the acidity a great counterpoint to the ripe F X Pichler 2008 Loibner Steinertal of vanilla and spice as well as pure crisp steeli- fruits. Imported by Vin Divino. —R.V. 94 Riesling Smaragd (Wachau); $NA. ness. A wine for aging over 6–7 years. Screwcap. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Taut wine, walking on a knife edge of crisp acid- Nikolaihof 2006 Steinerhund ity, bright fruit and a complex structure that Selection. —R.V. Reserve Riesling (Wachau); $76. comes from the stone of the vineyard and steely 91 Broadening out into a sophisticated wine, this has Riesling character. The wine is freshened by tan- Rainer Wess 2009 Pfaffenberg spices, almonds and generous acidity to go with gerine zest and hints of currants. Age for many Reserve Riesling (Kremstal); $35. 93 pure apples and a lovely, elegant texture. years. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. Elegantly perfumed wine, its steely acidity Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. sheathed in bright white currant and green apple Nikolaihof 2008 Vom Stein Ries- crispness. This is an infant, needing many years to Rudi Pichler 2008 Wösendorfer ling Smaragd (Wachau); $62. Like 94 develop, although it is already beautifully bal- Kirchweg Riesling Smaragd many Nikolaihof wines, this one needs aging. It is 91 anced. Imported by Russell Herman Selection. (Wachau); $69. Pineapple and orange zest start beautifully textured, very perfumed with white Cellar Selection. —R.V. currants and wildflower flavors followed by this compelling wine. It has great tight acidity, as crisp as possible, with a yellow mineral structure bright, steely acidity. Give this at least five years. Domäne Wachau 2009 Singer- that has extreme youth. Imported by Winebow. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar riedel Riesling Smaragd (Wachau); Selection. —R.V. 92 —R.V. $46. Singerriedel is at the western end of the Wachau; it’s normally relatively cool, although not Prager 2009 Klaus Riesling Nigl 2009 Hochäcker Riesling in 2009 as shown by this delicious, rich wine. The Smaragd (Wachau); $77. On the soft 90 (Kremstal); $52. Riesling at 14% alco- 94 fruit is bright and lively, the only hint of richness side, with some residual sugar, this is initially a hol is almost too much, although Martin Nigl just being the spicy edge to the final flavor. Imported gentle Riesling. Slowly it reveals its minerality, gets away with it, the fresh element giving bal- which pushes into the juicy peach and apricot fla- by Vin Divino. —R.V. ance to the super ripeness. This is a sipping wine, vors and brings its own salt and flint texture. It is too intensely perfumed for food. Screwcap. so elegant yet so powerful. Imported by Domäne Wachau 2009 Kellerberg Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. Winebow. —R.V. 92 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (Wachau); $60. Classic honey and lemon fla- Nikolaihof 1999 Steinriesler Ries- Rainer Wess 2009 Reserve Riesling vors are so fresh despite the liquorous texture 90 ling (Wachau); $70. One of the 94 (Wachau); $49. Intense concentration, that this is like drinking an elixir. The botrytis dry- library releases from Nikolaihof, this has become the wine powers across the palate, its texture ness is still developing and now the wine shows a light, elegant wine that walks a tightrope packed with broad white and yellow fruit flavors the most wonderful primary fruit flavor. Imported between freshness and mature smoke and toast as well as beautiful acidity. Age for 3–4 years. by Vin Divino. —R.V. flavors. Smooth almonds and spiced apples are

122 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 beautifully ready to drink. Imported by Michael apricots for which the Wachau is also famous. Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007 Skurnik Wines. —R.V. This is delicious wine, rounded and ripe, packed 93 Clos Saint Urbain Grand Cru with luscious fruit and acidity. Imported by Rangen De Thann Gewürztraminer Pichler-Krutzler 2008 Dürnsteiner Winebow. —R.V. (Alsace); $116. Exotic and opulent, with Kash- 90 In der Wand Riesling (Wachau); miri spices and mango upfront, sliding into a $23. Richness goes with a wonderful light touch Tegernseerhof 2008 Weissenkirch- palate of white pepper and peach shot through in this bright and fresh wine. It has baked apple, 93 ner Zwerithaler (Wachau); $35. The with mineral notes while the medium, honey- nutmeg flavors and smooth creamy texture, while first release of this field blend from the Zwerithaler inflected finish is cut short by the high alcohol. acidity offers balanced freshness. A delicious vineyard. It gives spice, smooth acidity, fashioned There’s a good bit of residual sugar here, bringing steely aftertaste. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler. by an explosion of pineapple, tarragon and orange sushi and other Asian fare to mind. Imported by —R.V. zest, all giving delicious freshness. Age for five The Sorting Table. —J.R. years or more. Screwcap. Imported by KW Selec- Rainer Wess 2009 Loibenberg tion. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Domaines Schlumberger 2007 90 Riesling (Wachau); $35. Fresh min- 92 Cuvée Anne Sélection des Grains eral- and steel-textured wine, with hints of crisp Nobles Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $82. white peach and an intense citric component. ALSACE While most varietal character is gone, this wine The aftertaste is deliciously fresh. Imported by does show an explosion of ripe, honeyed sweet- Russell Herman Selection. —R.V. GEWÜRZTRAMINER ness, with a rich, liquorous texture. There is spice, bergamot, dried apricot in a smooth and opulent Tegernseerhof 2008 Loibenberg Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007 coating. Imported by Maisons Marques & Riesling (Wachau); $NA. Flint and Gueberschwihr Goldert Grand Cru 90 94 Domaines USA. —R.V. summer hedgerow perfumes give a great intro- Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $84. The Zind- duction to this tightly crisp wine. White nectarine Humbrecht Goldert has everything you have a Château d’Orschwihr 2008 Bollen- juice shows a light richness. The wine has sliced right to expect from the exotic Gewürztraminer berg Gewürztraminer (Alsace); apple acidity, juicy fruit, the freshest aftertaste. grape: it’s packed with loads of Asian spices, dried 91 $20. Sweet and perfumed, but with a sense of Screwcap. Imported by KW Selection. —R.V. fruit and honey flavor and it offers up intense proportion despite its alcohol. It has fine ripe scents of lychee and pear that jump right out of fruits, star fruit and mango prominent, while the Domäne Wachau 2009 Terrassen the glass. An exceptional level of concentration acidity keeps the exuberance in check. The final Riesling Smaragd (Wachau); $28. allows this wine to carry its 15% alcohol, though 89 flavor brings in fresh white fruits. For aging 4–5 A broad as well as crisp wine that has great fresh, the finish is a bit warm. Try with Thai fare. years. Imported by Fine Vines. —R.V. beautifully polished ripe pear fruit, lightly nutty Imported by The Sorting Table. Editors’ in character. Imported by Vin Divino. —R.V. Choice. —J.R. Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007 Gueberschwihr Gewürztraminer Felsner 2009 Rohrendorfer Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007 91 89 Gebling Riesling (Kremstal); $23. 93 Hunawihr Clos Windsbuhl (Alsace); $48. Pretty and delicately spicy, with Very mineral in character, this is an elegant and Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $96. The Clos notes of dried fruit and Asian pear. There’s a core crisp wine. The perfumes are a vivid balance to Windsbuhl Gewürztraminer is a noticeably sweet of bright acidity here, noticeable despite the high the fresh green fruits, with a light layer of acidity. wine with a decadent texture and penetrating level of residual sugar, that makes for a refreshing Screwcap. Imported by Grape Expectations notes of caramel, lychee and poached apricots. finish. A great choice for Dim Sum. Imported by (CA). —R.V. The palate is intense and concentrated, framed The Sorting Table. —J.R. by flavors of candied apple and Indian spices Domäne Wachau 2009 Terrassen while a finish of white pepper and honey seems Domaines Schlumberger 2007 88 Riesling Federspiel (Wachau); $19. to go on and on. Serve with foie gras for a trans- 91 Cuvée Christine Vendanges Tar- Attractive creamed apple aromas lead to a vividly porting experience. Imported by The Sorting dives Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $73. Rich, fresh wine, packed with bright fruits, with a cool, Table. —J.R. sweet, flowery and deliciously blowsy, with spice, steely edge. Delicious, crisp wine. Screwcap. ginger, lychees and melons. The wine is a power- Imported by Vin Divino. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007 house of richness, the acidity a sideshow. Ready 93 Herrenweg De Turckheim to drink now. Imported by Maisons Marques & Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $55. Decadently Domaines USA. —R.V. OTHER WHITE WINES rich and slightly alcoholic, this is a wine for a moment of self-indulgence. There’s loads of spicy Gustave Lorentz 2006 Altenberg Rudi Pichler 2008 Wösendorfer intensity and a smoky undertone that creates a 91 de Bergheim Grand Cru Vieilles 93 Kollmutz Weissburgunder sense of mystery plus a lush finish of crushed Vignes Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $50. Smaragd (Wachau); $43. Weissburgunder flowers and quince paste that caps off the impres- Perfumed wine, sweet, exuding superripe fruits, (Pinot Blanc) is rare in the Wachau. In the hands sion of intrigue. Try with cured meats. Imported lychee and mango with yellow nectarine acidity. of Rudi Pichler, you find a wine that tastes of the by The Sorting Table. —J.R. The wine is very rich, a potpourri of exotic flavors

WineMag.com | 123 BUYING I GUIDE and final spice. Imported by Quintessential off. It is ripe, full in the mouth, with melon, white Domaine Eugène Meyer 2008 Wines. —R.V. chocolate and a good amount of acidity. Imported 87 Pinot Blanc (Alsace); $17. With its by Global Quality Import. —R.V. slight vanilla aroma, this is a broad style, with ripe Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007 acidity, a fresh green fruit character, rounded by 90 Turckheim Heimbourg Gewürz- Hugel 2008 Gewürztraminer the toast edge. There is a good final crisp texture. traminer (Alsace); $65. An understated 87 (Alsace); $24. A great representative of Imported by Chartrand Imports. —R.V. choice for those who wish Gewürztraminer were its type, the Hugel 2008 Gewürztraminer is ele- a more subtle wine. The nose is a bit shy with a gant and fresh, with scents of carnations and rose Domaine Specht 2008 Pinot Blanc delicate floral tone, though the palate has good petals on the nose followed by peach and spice 87 (Alsace); $14. Bright fruit freshness flavor intensity with punchy notes of Chinese cake in the mouth. A finish of hothouse flowers dominates this wine. The fruit is pure, vivid. light spices and honeycomb resting on a texture that is gives this a touch of class. Drink now. Imported by and crisp. The acidity is important here, driving lazy, soft and a bit sweet. Try on its own after din- Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —J.R. the wine in a mineral direction. Imported by ner. Imported by The Sorting Table. —J.R. Global Quality Import. —R.V. Jean-Baptiste Adam 2007 Kaeffer- Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007 87 kopf Vielles Vignes Grand Cru Domaines Schlumberger 2008 Les 90 Turckheim Gewürztraminer Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $55. An attrac- 87 Princes Abbés Pinot Blanc (Alsace); $48. A good value in the world of tive package, with an opening act of smoked tea (Alsace); $15. Rounded and soft, with an attrac- Zind-Humbrecht wines, this off-dry Gewürz- and exotic nuts followed by an off-dry palate of tive bite of fruit skin texture and lively fresh acid- traminer is super-concentrated, with a silky tex- cinnamon and clove. The finish is fairly long and ity. There is a touch of final minerality. Imported ture and flavors of lychees and cling peaches. A nicely accented with tropical fruit though it turns by Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. nice white cherry accent kicks in on the medium just a touch bitter at the end. Drink now. finish. Try with Thai fare. Imported by The Sort- Cave de Beblenheim 2009 Baron Imported by Winebow. —J.R. ing Table. —J.R. 85 de Hoen Pinot Blanc (Alsace); $12. Cave de Beblenheim 2009 Baron Light, soft and fresh, an easy-drinking Pinot Domaine Eugène Meyer 2008 de Hoen Gewürztraminer Blanc, with pear and fresh apricot flavors. A great Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $22. Bio- 86 apéritif style, ready to drink. Screwcap. Imported 89 (Alsace); $15. The spice is soft, giving the wine dynamic since 1969, François Meyer’s wines show by The Other Wine & Spirits. —R.V. a dry edge of pepper and ginger cookies. The great purity of fruit. This Gewürztraminer has acidity shows enough to give the wine some crisp- balanced spice, mango and lychee flavor, struc- ness. Screwcap. Imported by The Other Wine & tured into shape by a good touch of pear juice PINOT GRIS Spirits. —R.V. acidity. Imported by Chartrand Imports. —R.V. Domaines Schlumberger 2006 Helfrich 2009 Gewürztraminer Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007 Kessler Grand Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace); $15. Classic spice and lychee 93 89 Wintzenheim Hengst Grand Cru 85 (Alsace); $24. Rich and sweet, very soft in tex- Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $110. This is aromas lead to a wine that is medium sweet, ture, a wine that is beautifully ripe and broad. It undeniably a concentrated wine offering a com- attractive but one-dimensional. It has perfumed, has a dry core of toast, pepper, with raisins and a plex set of very appealing aromas and flavors candy shop flavors, almost exaggerated. Screwcap. final hint of acidity. Imported by Maisons Mar- (singed grapefruit peel, honey, caramel). How- Imported by Underdog Wine Merchants. —R.V. ques & Domaines USA. —R.V. ever, it is a bit out of balance at 15.5% alcohol and finishes shorter than one has a right to expect PINOT BLANC Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007 in this triple-digit price range. It’s starting to show 92 Wintzenheim Rotenberg Pinot some development and will probably not Gris (Alsace); $64. There’s great mineral improve, so best to drink up soon. Imported by Domaine Zinck 2009 Pinot Blanc expression here, with aromas of wet slate under- The Sorting Table. —J.R. 88 (Alsace); $13. Congratulations to the pinning top notes of nectarine and orange peel. Zincks on their back label with graphic details In the mouth, the wine is intense and viscous Helfrich 2007 Steinklotz Grand (rare in Alsace) of the sweetness of this smooth with Thai spices and stone fruit that carry over to 88 Cru Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $25. but dry Pinot Blanc. The wine has creamed apple the long finish. Serious palate length enhances Exotic perfumes and fruits dominate this wine. and almond flavors and attractive acidity. Screw- the weightiness and definition of this wine. Drink Its flavors are all about perfumes, a texture that cap. Imported by HB Wine Merchants. Best now or hold several years for even more complex- only hints at minerality. No question about the Buy. —R.V. ity. Imported by The Sorting Table. —J.R. variety here. Imported by Underdog Wine Mer- chants. —R.V. Château d’Orschwihr 2009 Bollen- Domaines Schlumberger 2007 Kit- 87 berg Pinot Blanc (Alsace); $15. 92 terlé Grand Cru Le Brise Mollets Domaine Specht 2008 Gewürz- Light, fresh and easy wine, with pear and green Pinot Gris (Alsace); $46. Sweet and rich wine, 87 traminer (Alsace); $17. A broad apple fruit and a deft, soft texture. Totally ready preserving some exciting acidity. That makes the swathe of lychee gives the wine a perfumed send- to drink. Imported by Fine Vines. —R.V. currant and fig flavors well in balance with a

124 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 smoky character, touched by toast. A very elegant dried fruit-flavored wine. There is some sweet- the concentration, it’s quite light on its feet and wine that also projects concentration. Imported ness, its ripe currant flavors boosted by a broad would pair well with Japanese cuisine. Can be by Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. texture and some spice. The acidity seems to be drunk now (decanting recommended) but will missing. Imported by Underdog Wine Mer- show its best after five-plus years in the cellar. Château d’Orschwihr 2008 chants. —R.V. Imported by The Sorting Table. —J.R. 91 Zinnkoepfle Grand Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace); $NA. With its pale gold color, this is Marc Kreydenweiss 2007 Le Moine Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007 obviously a sweet wine. Raisins, bold acidity and 88 Mœnchberg Grand Cru Pinot Gris 95 Turckheim Brand Vielles Vignes spiced mango blend well together in a wine that (Alsace); $55. A quirky wine, but largely suc- Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace); $106. A real is maturing well. It is good to drink now, but cessful, with upfront tones of clove-spiced orange stunner; a full-bodied, ripe, luxurious expression worth aging. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. peel and baking bread followed by dried fruit of Riesling. There’s opulent fruit here and sweet- notes in the mouth. The long finish is on the sweet ness but the impression in the mouth is dry and Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007 side and winds down to a note of Asian candy. steely due to a laser-like undercurrent of acidity. 91 Vielles Vignes Pinot Gris (Alsace); Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.R. Flavors run to petroleum and candied lemon $58. An opulent, hedonistic wine, with an exoti- peel, brightened up by a light cinnamon note. cally perfumed nose of singed orange peel, clove Gustave Lorentz 2007 Schofweg Long, long, long finish of applejack, butter and and garam masala. The palate is intense and 87 Pinot Gris (Alsace); $30. Rich, spicy cream. Will benefit from decanting. Drinking noticeably sweet but saved from being cloying by wine, layers of pepper and soft fruits. The flavors well now but will improve over the next 10-plus a core of fresh acidity. Try with a duck liver ter- show smoky peach and pear, with some weight years. Imported by The Sorting Table. —J.R. rine. Imported by The Sorting Table. —J.R. behind the texture. It finishes well with a light layer of acidity. Imported by Quintessential Domaines Schlumberger 2007 Gustave Lorentz 2005 Altenberg Wines. —R.V. 94 Kessler Grand Cru Riesling 89 de Bergheim Grand Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace); $36. With a few years’ aging, this is (Alsace); $50. Sweet, rich wine, powerful ripe Marc Kreydenweiss 2007 Aux beginning to show its almond and toast side. The pear and melon flavors spiced with ginger and an 87 Vignes Clos Rebberg Pinot Gris fresh acidity is now melding beautifully into a opulent full texture. The wine lets its perfumed (Alsace); $51. A very oxidative style, with soft, ripe texture with layers of spice and acidity. character get away with itself, but it’s exuberant unusual, though intense, flavors of straw and com- Certainly worth aging further. Imported by for a moment. Imported by Quintessential Wines. post intermingled with poached pear and wet Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Cellar —R.V. stones. The high quality of the raw material comes Selection. —R.V. through on the long, caramel-apple finish. Drink Domaine Specht 2008 Pinot Gris now. Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.R. Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007 88 (Alsace); $15. Broad and ripe fruit, 92 Herrenweg De Turckheim Riesling hinting at spice. There is weight, pear and peach Helfrich 2008 Pinot Gris (Alsace); (Alsace); $50. Like an explosion in a flower flavors balanced by a good element of acidity. The 86 $15. Soft wine, light in texture, some shop, this exuberant white offers up harmonious final flavors continue the broad texture. Imported spice and tropical fruits. There is freshness, well scents of gardenias, carnations and white roses by Global Quality Import. —R.V. integrated into an attractive, ready-to-drink wine. alongside lower tones of petrol and slate. It’s Screwcap. Imported by Underdog Wine Mer- intense, flavorful and starting to show some Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007 chants. —R.V. development. Try with classic French fish prepa- 88 Turckheim Heimbourg Pinot Gris rations. Imported by The Sorting Table. —J.R. (Alsace); $64. This is a starkly mineral wine, with Domaine Specht 2007 Pinot Gris straightforward apple aromas followed by a crisp, 83 (Alsace); $15. Soft and flat in texture Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007 bright palate infused with notes of beer nuts. Fin- with a toffee character and a touch of spice. It 92 Turckheim Brand Grand Cru Ries- ishes light and dry, with a final accent of lemon tastes old before its time. Imported by Global ling (Alsace); $92. Within the world of Zind- peel. Imported by The Sorting Table. —J.R. Quality Import. —R.V. Humbrecht Grands Crus, this is a drier example and the laser-like acidity in this Riesling will prob- Domaines Schlumberger 2008 Les ably convince most drinkers that there isn’t a drop 88 Princes Abbés Pinot Gris (Alsace); RIESLING of residual sugar left. Meanwhile, aromas of $20. Soft-textured wine, open to spiced pear and grapefruit and lime will keep the nose enter- apricots with kiwi fruit acidity. It takes a while Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007 tained while a lingering finish of bruised apple before the bite of pepper and the richness come 95 Wintzenheim Clos Häuserer Ries- and dried fruit leaves an exotic impression. through. There is weight and intensity on the fin- ling (Alsace); $60. An astounding wine, the Drinking well now but will improve over five-plus ish. Imported by Maisons Marques & Domaines 2007 Zind Humbrecht Clos Häuserer Riesling years. Imported by The Sorting Table. —J.R. USA. —R.V. opens with a tightly wound bouquet of petrol, gardenias and lemon skin while the dry palate is Château d’Orschwihr 2001 Kessler Helfrich 2008 Steinklotz Grand packed with dense dried fruit and pear flavor. 91 Grand Cru Vendanges Tardives 88 Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace); $25. Smoky, Long, long gardenia-scented finish. Despite all Riesling (Alsace); $NA. Just assuming the

WineMag.com | 125 BUYING I GUIDE wonderful flavors of mature Riesling, this wine perfumed wine, its fruit bursting with citrus edge to this bright wine. Screwcap. Imported by still has hints of fresh white currants. The toast intensity. It has bright, very textured and mineral The Other Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V. and smoke flavors are more dominant, with a core structure offering aging potential. There is a of minerality and acidity. Rich, rather than sweet. lively, vivid aftertaste. Imported by Quintessential Marc Kreydenweiss 2007 Le —R.V. Wines. —R.V. 88 Château Kastelberg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace); $105. Another wacky Ries- Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007 Marc Kreydenweiss 2007 La Dame ling from Marc Kreydenweiss, this one somehow 91 Turckheim Heimbourg Riesling 90 Wiebelsberg Grand Cru Vendan- works. There’s Asian spice here and an odd col- (Alsace); $60. Classic in its approach, this ges Tardives Riesling (Alsace); $103. Krey- lection of oxidative aromas but also undeniable slightly off-dry Riesling opens with petrol and cit- denweiss’ unusually oxidative vinification methods concentration and good length. Serve this rus peel notes that give way to mouth-coating fla- are better suited to making a sweet wine such as unusual wine by itself or with Indian fare. vors of peach and apricot while the lemony finish this Vendanges Tardives, where we expect more Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.R. goes on and on. Drinking well now but will gain savory flavors and less fresh fruit. The dominant depth and complexity over the next five years. notes here are caramel, cider and Asian spices, Domaine Zinck 2009 Riesling Imported by The Sorting Table. —J.R. supported by a bright line of acidity that carries 87 (Alsace); $16. Ripe and soft. There is the flavors through to the lingering finish. Drink an attractive citrus element that gives structure, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007 now. Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.R. wih acidity coming through. Delicious now. Screw- 91 Hunawihr Clos Windsbuhl Ries- cap. Imported by HB Wine Merchants. —R.V. ling (Alsace); $92. Complex and steely, this is a Domaine Specht 2008 Mandel- wine with a lot of energy and a solid core of acid- 89 berg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace); Gustave Lorentz 2008 Burg Ries- ity that carries flavors of white cherries and lime ling (Alsace); $30. $19. Soft and smooth, showing almonds, a touch 86 Steely, mineral from the attack all the way through to a dry, lin- style, very crisp. The texture is bone dry, with of toast, the fruit calm, showing slowly in the gering finish. Has solid length and definition. Let grapefruit and lime flavors, a wine under tight riper texture of the wine. Acidity comes through this one mellow a few years. Imported by The tension. It has lightness and extreme freshness. as a final bite. Imported by Global Quality Sorting Table. —J.R. Imported by Quintessential Wines. —R.V. Import. —R.V. Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007 Pierre Sparr 2007 Grand Cru Domaines Schlumberger 2008 Les Clos Saint Urbain Grand Cru Schoenenbourg Riesling (Alsace); 91 Princes Abbés Riesling (Alsace); 86 Rangen De Thann Riesling (Alsace); $110. 89 $40. Crisp and dry, with a nice aromatic tension $20. Finely perfumed wine, with all the right Seriously crisp, this is a wine for acid freaks; don’t between a taffy topnote and a lemon baseline. crisp, steely character of Riesling. It has bright even think about serving it as an apéritif. How- There’s decent intensity to the earthy notes in the white fruit flavors, intense initial acidity that ever, with the right dish (think flavorful fish in a mouth, though we could wish for a bit more broadens out into a fine, complex wine. Worth cream sauce), some real magic could happen. length from a Grand Cru. Drink now to 2012. aging 3–4 years. Imported by Maisons Marques The austerity of the palate is softened a bit by Imported by MROI LLC. —J.R. Editors’ Choice. easy-to-like flavors of toast, spice and citrus that & Domaines USA. —R.V. follow through to the long finish. Give this one a Helfrich 2009 Riesling (Alsace); Domaines Schlumberger 2007 few years in the cellar to show its best. Imported $15. Crisp and freshly simple Riesling. Cuvée Ernest Sélection des Grains 85 by The Sorting Table. —J.R. 89 There are attractive green fruits, good acidity and Nobles Riesling (Alsace); $NA. Toffee and a bright perfumed aftertaste. Not for aging. Château d’Orschwihr 2009 Bollen- rich spice give this wine its concentrated flavors. Imported by Underdog Wine Merchants. —R.V. 90 berg Riesling (Alsace); $18. Steely, It has intensity rather than weight, soft and crisp, with a tight edge of green fruits. The struc- smooth with final caramel and light acidity. Jean-Baptiste Adam 2007 Kaeffer- ture is dominant at this stage in the development Imported by Maisons Marques & Domaines 85 kopf Vielles Vignes Grand Cru of this rapier-like wine. Age for 3–4 years. USA. —R.V. Riesling (Alsace); $55. Opens with a classic Imported by Fine Vines. —R.V. nose of cream, citrus and spice, giving way to cot- Helfrich 2007 Steinklotz Grand ton candy, cardamon and café latte in the mouth. Domaine Eugène Meyer 2008 89 Cru Riesling (Alsace); $25. Attrac- The crisp, dry finish of roasted nuts is attractive 90 Riesling (Alsace); $25. Very pure tively perfumed Riesling, its fresh acidity but doesn’t really linger. Imported by Winebow. fruit, crisp, a tight mineral band over vivid fla- matched by white currant fruits and a tight edge —J.R. vors. Tensely structured, this has a light vanilla of minerality. Good, crisp final brightness. character, packed with fruit skins, crisp and citrus. Imported by Underdog Wine Merchants. —R.V. Pierre Sparr 2007 Riesling (Alsace); Imported by Chartrand Imports. —R.V. 85 $14. Intensely fresh wine, crisp apples Cave de Beblenheim 2008 Baron and bright fruit with a light touch of pineapple Gustave Lorentz 2005 Altenberg 88 de Hoen Riesling (Alsace); $12. juice. The acidity is mouthwatering, with a lightly 90 de Bergheim Grand Cru Vieilles Lightly floral, showing a hint of minerality and perfumed edge. Screwcap. Imported by W.J. Vignes Riesling (Alsace); $50. An invitingly pink grapefruit fruit. There is a fine apple skin Deutsch & Sons. —R.V.

126 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 Domaine Specht 2008 Riesling concentration. Signs off with a final note of set against a backdrop of brambly fruit. The 84 (Alsace); $15. Very light, this wine dis- crushed raspberries. This one will last through palate is charming, nuanced and extracted, with appoints with a lack of power, of steely acidity. the winter but should be drunk up before the grippy tannins and a final lingering note of sour Instead it is soft, broad, a touch of green fruit, summer of 2011. Imported by The Sorting Table. drops. Drink now, with some barbecued sanglière leaving a light, bright aftertaste. Imported by —J.R. (boar), if you have some on hand. If not, spare Global Quality Import. —R.V. ribs will do nicely as well. Imported by European Château Routas 2009 Rouvière Wine Imports. —J.R. Ringenbach Moser 2005 Riesling 86 Rosé (Coteaux Varois); $13. Subtle 84 (Alsace); $NA. A full wine that shows a and restrained, drawn in a more oxidative, less Château Paradis 2007 Terre des richness, spice and a soft texture. While it is dry, it overtly fruity style. The palate is broad and unfo- 88 Anges (Coteaux d’Aix-en- misses acidity and feels fat. —R.V. cused but shows good depth of flavor and an Provence); $37. This is an ambitious effort, intriguing thread of apricot. Ends with a nutty, with prominent sawdust and campfire notes from almond note. Drink up. Imported by Mara Far- toasty new oak that lead to a dense palate with SPARKLING rell Communications. —J.R. muscular tannins and strawberry fruit that car- ries over to the medium finish. Give this one a Château d’Orschwihr NV Brut Commanderie de la Bargemone few years in the cellar to come together. 88 (Crémant d’Alsace); $20. Light acid- 86 2009 Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en- Imported by Bob Bofman Selections. —J.R. ity and a crisp green-fruited texture offer fine Provence); $18. Here’s a more serious freshness in this bright wine. The acidity is a deli- Provence rosé, with a nice mineral streak and Domaine Houchart 2006 Côtes de cious streak in the not quite dry final flavor. good depth of flavor. There’s red berry fruit 87 Provence; $11. A classic Provence red: Imported by Fine Vines. —R.V. upfront that turns a bit confected in the mouth, charming, light and fresh, with pretty red fruit winding down to a taffy note on the short-to- and straightforward flavors of plum and bramble. Helfrich 2007 Crémant d’Alsace; medium finish. Perfect with a meal of grilled fish. There’s a bit of tannin here but this is a wine to 84 $NA. Lightly perfumed wine, with fla- Imported by Hand Picked Selections. —J.R. drink young, before the fresh fruit fades. Try with vors that are off dry, soft and creamy. Almonds, grilled spare ribs. Imported by David Milligan quince and pear give the wine ripeness, but the Xavier Flouret 2009 Nationale 7 Selections. —J.R. finish is rather soapy. Imported by Underdog 85 Rosé (Côtes de Provence); $18. Wine Merchants. —R.V. Pretty and fresh, with vibrant, well-defined straw- Domaine Saint Andrieu 2007 berry fruit on the nose set against a backdrop of 87 (Côtes de Provence); $13. Bright white flowers. Turns a bit simple and fleeting in and woodsy, this Syrah-dominant red is intriguing PROVENCE the mouth. Drink up. Imported by Cognac One, for its tapestry of earth and mushroom flavors LLC. —J.R. interwoven with mixed berry fruit. There’s ROSÉ WINES enough acidity in the medium, yeast-scented fin- Barton & Guestier 2009 Rosé ish to stand up to hearty red meats. Drink up. Domaine des Diables 2009 Rosé 84 (Côtes de Provence); $NA. With just Imported by USA Wine West. —J.R. 89 (Côtes de Provence Sainte-Vic- a light touch of sweet caramel, this is a gentle toire); $18. This is a berry-scented, moderately style of rosé. Fresh red fruits and acidity offer an Rimauresq 2006 Cru Classé (Côtes full-bodied Provence rosé. It’s ripe and round, attractive complement to each other. Imported 86 de Provence); $23. Raspberry and with a soft, easy-to-drink style and a moderately by Diageo Chateau & Estates. —R.V. earth tones open this medium-weight Provence long finish. Drink now. Imported by Savio Soares blend. There’s cherry fruit and a moderate level Selections. Domaine de Brigue 2009 Prestige of complexity on the palate but also a slightly 84 Rosé (Côtes de Provence); $15. A funky note in the background. Tannins are force- Bieler Père et Fils 2009 Rosé bit confected upfront with notes of saltwater taffy, ful but polite; try with pork roast. Imported by 87 (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence); $11. though there are some nice stone fruit tones at American Wine Distributors. —J.R. This fresh and flavorful rosé is as easy to like as its the back. Pear is the dominant flavor in the gentle price tag. There’s loads of youthful straw- mouth, but it doesn’t hang around too long. Domaine Saint Andrieu 2007 berry and peach fruit, propped up by a bright line Drink this crisp and dry rosé before 2011. 85 (Coteaux Varois); $13. Simple but of acidity that carries the flavors through to a Imported by Domaine de Brigue. —J.R. charming, with uncomplicated black fruit upfront medium finish. Pick this for your next warm followed by cherry and garrigue in the mouth, weather gathering. Imported by Bieler Commu- this is a good choice for a Labor Day barbecue; nications. Best Buy. —J.R. RED WINES the fresh acidity and soft tannins put us in mind of something in the pork or veal family. Imported Triennes 2009 Rosé (Vin de Pays Domaine de la Sangliere 2007 by USA Wine Imports. —J.R. 87 Var); $18. A more weighty, mineral 89 Prestige (Côtes de Provence); $28. interpretation, with upfront red fruit that transi- Here’s a Provence red to take seriously for its Commanderie de la Bargemone tions to an edgy, pear-inflected palate with good sophisticated nose of forest floor and wet stones 84 2005 (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence);

WineMag.com | 127 BUYING I GUIDE

$14. An intensely herbal wine, smelling of the rich and the wine promises many happy years garrigue where it is grown. It is lean, firmly tannic TUSCANY ahead. A Marc de Grazia selection; various Amer- with high red fruit acids, and a dry structure. It’s ican importers. Cellar Selection. —M.L. rustic, reminiscent of old-style winemaking. 2004 BRUNELLO Imported by Hand Picked Selections. —J.C. Valdicava 2004 Madonna del Altesino 2004 Riserva (Brunello di 95 Piano Riserva (Brunello di Montal- 96 Montalcino); $80. This stunning wine cino); $186. Here’s a dark and well concen- WHITE WINES boasts loads of character that peels off as aromatic trated Brunello Riserva with meaty tones of layers of cherry, cassis, soapy wild flowers, vio- smoked ham or bresaola backed by black cherry Château Paradis 2008 Terre des lets, earth, cola and church incense. There’s a and prune. You’ll get loads of leather and tobacco 90 Anges (Coteaux d’Aix-en- sweet spice element of cinnamon and nutmeg and the wine is bright and tart on the close with a Provence); $28. This striking Provence white and all the flavors last long on the finish. It’s tem- fresh fruit finale. Excellent. Imported by Vinifera opens with intense aromatics of mixed nuts and pered, elegant and smooth overall. Imported by Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L. peach that set the stage for a powerful expression Winebow. Cellar Selection. —M.L. of crushed flowers and grass in the mouth. This is Caparzo 2004 Borgo Scopeto Ris- a refreshing wine, but weighty and warm; try with Casanova di Neri 2004 Cerretalto 94 erva (Brunello di Montalcino); veal or light pork dishes. Drink now to 2011. 95 (Brunello di Montalcino); $200. $97. Soft, supple and persistent, this gorgeous Imported by Bob Bofman Selections. —J.R. The aromas are harmonious and penetrating; the Riserva Brunello offers intensity and genuine ter- mouthfeel smooth and velvety and the overall ritorial characteristics. Aromas include cherry Domaine de la Sangliere 2008 effect is one of complexity and intensity. Cerre- cola, spice and loads of balsam notes such as 88 Prestige (Côtes de Provence); $27. talto is a cru selection riserva and represents one eucalyptus and menthol. It’s tight and determined Complex and exotic, this blend of Rolle (Ver- of the most modern, fruit-forward and boldest in the mouth and this impression is reinforced by mentino) and Ugni Blanc opens with papaya and expressions from the Montalcino territory. fresh acidity and silky tannins. Imported by Vine- almond notes that fold into a flavorful palate of Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct. Cellar yard Brands. —M.L. cantaloupe and guava. Winds up on a bright Selection. —M.L. mango tone. Drink now to 2011. Imported by Castello Romitorio 2004 Riserva European Wine Imports. —J.R. Castello Banfi 2004 Poggio all’Oro 94 (Brunello di Montalcino); $140. 95 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino); Castello Romitorio’s beautiful Riserva Brunello Domaines Ott 2007 Clos Mireille $150. The last time this special Riserva was pro- delivers ripe fruit notes with inky consistency and 86 Blanc de Blancs (Côtes de duced was in 1999. Only produced in excellent elegant mineral tones framed around a core of Provence); $39. This zesty Provence white is vintages, the 2004 expression shows amazing con- solid red fruit. The wine is supple and very pol- starting to show its age a bit, with faded flowers centration, balance, complexity, depth and per- ished with impressive persistency on the finish. upfront and a slightly waxy texture. Nonetheless, sonality. Aromas include black cherry, cola, light Imported by Vinifera Imports. —M.L. there’s enough to keep the senses entertained, smoke, graphite and moist tobacco. The mouth- with a pleasant floral edge to the pear-inflected feel is deep, penetrating and long lasting with La Fiorita 2004 Riserva (Brunello palate and a final butter note. Drink up. tight but polished tannins. Drink after 2015. 94 di Montalcino); $84. La Fiorita Ris- Imported by Maisons Marques & Domaines Imported by Banfi Vintners. Cellar Selection. erva shows excellent intensity and generosity with USA. —J.R. —M.L. full notes of blackberry, cherry, spice, cigar box and smoke. The wine is big, thick and succulent Domaines Ott 2008 Clos Mireille San Polino 2004 Riserva (Brunello and the finish lasts many long, delicious minutes. 86 Blanc de Blancs (Côtes de 95 di Montalcino); $90. Here’s an imme- Very nice. Imported by Chambers & Chambers. Provence); $39. The nose is fresh and pretty diately seductive Riserva from Montalcino with Cellar Selection. —M.L. and there’s definitely a luxurious texture to the sweet cherry aromas backed by vanilla, cinnamon flower-accented palate. However, it lacks inten- and spice. The wine is terrific, from the intensity Poggio Antico 2004 Riserva sity in the mouth and a slight funkiness on the of its aromas to the smoothness of its mouthfeel. 94 (Brunello di Montalcino); $178. finish detracts. Drink soon. Imported by Maisons The finish is long, supple and very polished. This is a particularly elegant wine that empha- Marques & Domaines USA. —J.R. Imported by Premier Wine Co. Cellar Selec- sizes harmonious aromas of black fruit, spice and tion. —M.L. polished mineral. Poggio Antico is an excellent Le Classique from the 3 Springs producer and this Riserva shows the best of Mon- 86 Vineyard 2007 Coteaux d’Aix-en- Uccelliera 2004 Riserva (Brunello talcino tradition. Imported by Empson (USA) Provence; $17. At three years old, this wine is 95 di Montalcino); $112. Uccelliera is Ltd. Cellar Selection. —M.L. showing some interesting developed aromas of among an elite group that represents the best of almond paste and petrol while the lightweight the best of Montalcino. This gorgeous wine is Poggio Nardone 2004 Riserva palate displays some nice butter tones. Pick this intense and generous with nice concentration and 94 (Brunello di Montalcino); $NA. one up soon, for it seems to be fading. Imported layered aromas of cherry, blackberry, spice, black- Here’s a beautiful Brunello Riserva that comes at by OWS. —J.R. berry and plum. The mouthfeel is smooth and you in full force thanks to its compelling aromas

128 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 of spice, cherry, currants, mesquite wood and Il Palazzone 2004 Riserva (Brunello brawn or power. Imported by Monsieur Touton cola. There’s an immediate and direct manner to 93 di Montalcino); $140. Il Palazzone’s Selection Ltd. —M.L. the aromatic approach, but it’s layered and com- 2004 Riserva exhibits nicely aged aromas of dried plex at the same time. Imported by Dancing Bear currants, spice, leather, tar, Indian spice, pressed Tenuta Vitanza 2004 Riserva Cellars. Cellar Selection. —M.L. violets and cassis. There’s excellent intensity and 93 (Brunello di Montalcino); $90. complexity here and the wine closes long with lin- Here’s a dark and expertly extracted Brunello Ris- Camigliano 2004 Riserva Gualto gering layers of spice and smoke. Imported by erva from a beautiful family-run estate located in 93 (Brunello di Montalcino); $107. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. its own microclimate within the Montalcino This is a super modern and pleasurable Brunello denomination. The wine shows intense aromas of Riserva with soft, sweet aromas of cherry, choco- Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi 2004 blackberry, prune, leather, tobacco and spice. Imported by Vintners Estate Direct Importing. late and vanilla bean. The texture is rich and 93 Castelgiocondo Riserva Ripe al —M.L. smooth and the tannins are fine and extremely Convento (Brunello di Montalcino); $120. polished. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. Beautifully intense and generous. this Riserva Brunello from Frescobaldi’s Castelgioconda Fattoria La Lecciaia 2004 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino); $60. Casanova di Neri 2004 Tenuta estate boasts a modern, determined style. Aro- 92 Smokey layers of tar and asphalt open the nose of Nuova (Brunello di Montalcino); mas here include black cherry, chocolate, tobacco 93 this dark and brooding Brunello Riserva. There $82. This vineyard-designate expression from and spice. In the mouth, this wine is rich, smooth are some candied and dried fruit notes here but Giacomo Neri shows gorgeous depth and inten- and very persistent. Imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. the overall bouquet is focused on complex tertiary sity. Aromas here include red berries, currants, aromas. What sets the wine apart however is its anise seed, new leather, pipe tobacco and Spanish Mocali 2004 Vigna delle Raunate texture: firm, drying and long lasting. Drink now cedar. Its texture is rich, firm and ripe with berry Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino); or up to three years from now. Imported by Mon- nuances. Drink after 2017. Imported by Dalla 93 sieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. $75. This is an excellent Riserva from Montal- Terra Winery Direct. Cellar Selection. —M.L. cino with rich notes of bright cherry, toast, coffee, Fattoria La Lecciaia 2004 Vigna tobacco and blackberry. Aged in big oak casks, the Citille di Sopra 2004 Riserva Manapetra Riserva (Brunello di wine also shows elegance and harmony with a 92 (Brunello di Montalcino); $52. Montalcino); $65. This Brunello Riserva offers 93 pristine, vibrant finish that lasts long on the palate. Here’s an intense and immediate Brunello Ris- impressive tones of red cherry and blackberry Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. erva that needs a few more years of cellar aging to backed by spice and toast. There’s a richly succu- soften its young tannins. There’s nice balance lent or vinous nature to the wine that will surely Solaria 2004 Riserva 123 (Brunello here between fruit notes and spice and the wine integrate with more time in the cellar. In the di Montalcino); $84. Produced by is generous, rich and silky on the close. Vanilla 93 mouth, this wine is bright and fresh. Imported by vintner Patrizia Cencioni, this Brunello Riserva and vibrant cherry cap off the experience. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. is plump and succulent with loads of black fruit, Imported by Siena Imports. Cellar Selection. new leather, moist tobacco, wet earth and wild —M.L. Gianni Brunelli 2004 Riserva mushroom. You’ll love the intensity and the (Brunello di Montalcino); $105. mouthfeel, which is tonic but firm at the same 92 Conti Costanti 2004 Riserva This elegant wine is distinguished by mineral time. Imported by Sherbrooke Cellars. —M.L. 93 (Brunello di Montalcino); $138. notes of lead pencil and slate that give backbone to broader aromas of cherry, plum, currant and This is a standout Brunello Riserva thanks to the Talenti 2004 Pian di Conte Riserva prune. Oak-related layers of spice and toast add a smoothness and richness of its inviting aromas. 93 (Brunello di Montalcino); $NA. Tal- refined touch but do not distract from the overall The bouquet includes elements of cherry, choco- enti’s Riserva Brunello is a beautiful wine on all fruit characteristics. Imported by Acid Inc Selec- late fudge and soft plum and prune. Nothing is levels. There’s intensity and purity here with tions. —M.L. out of tune and the wine is equally harmonious blackberry notes that blend with mineral and and tasty on the finish. Imported by Empson light shadings of smoke and spice. The wine ends La Poderina 2004 Poggio Banale (USA) Ltd. —M.L. with power and determination and a very long, 92 (Brunello di Montalcino); $133. spicy finish. Imported by Robert Chadderdon Poggio Banale offers a clean and polished nose Fuligni 2004 Riserva (Brunello di Selections. —M.L. with spice and black fruit highlights. The wine is 93 Montalcino); $140. Compared to past chewy and deliciously succulent with tight tan- vintages, this Riserva embodies a lighter, more Tenuta di Sesta 2004 Riserva nins that make it an ideal candidate for long cellar elegant style. Aromas are delivered in a direct and 93 (Brunello di Montalcino); $NA. The aging. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. vertical manner and include cherry, red currant, bouquet opens to sophisticated aromas of dried chocolate and shadings of exotic spice. In the fruit, spice, smoke, tar and licorice. This is an aus- Mocali 2004 Riserva (Brunello di mouth, this wine shows enormous intensity, but tere and elegant wine that should be served with 92 Montalcino); $60. Mocali’s Brunello also harmony and balance. Imported by Empson the highest quality red meat. In the mouth, it Riserva offers a bright and buoyant bouquet of (USA) Ltd. —M.L. delivers complexity and elegance more than cherry, blackberry, spice, tobacco and dark choco-

WineMag.com | 129 BUYING I GUIDE late. The wine is elegant, generous and balanced tight, firm and long lasting. Imported by Dalla San Polo 2004 Riserva (Brunello di with a full but not overdone style. Imported by Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. 91 Montalcino); $NA. Ripe fruit and oak Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. nuances emerge from the nose of this modern Domus Vitae 2004 Riserva Brunello Riserva. Aromas include black cherry, Padelletti 2004 Riserva (Brunello 91 (Brunello di Montalcino); $80. blackberry preserves, spice and smoke. Bright 92 di Montalcino); $100. Here is a very Bursting red fruit stands opposite sophisticated fruit flavors and smooth tannins characterize the likeable Brunello Riserva with plush richness and oak-driven aromas of spice, coffee and tobacco mouthfeel. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. intense aromas of chocolate, spice, cherry and to create a successful aromatic union. You can blackberry. The wine is soft and rich and would taste the wood rendering with more precision in SassodiSole 2004 Riserva pair perfectly with succulent steak. Imported by the mouth, and the texture is consequently rich 91 (Brunello di Montalcino); $90. Aus- Uva Imports. —M.L. and smooth Imported by Superior Wines LLC. tere and elegant with ethereal tones of Spanish —M.L. cedar, cherry cola, eucalyptus and licorice, this Pian dell’Orino 2004 Riserva Brunello represents some of vintage 2004’s best 92 (Brunello di Montalcino); $135. La Fornace 2004 Riserva (Brunello qualities. The wine is elegant and tempered yet Barbecue smoke and mesquite wood are the most 91 di Montalcino); $80. Bright cherry determined and enduring in the mouth. Pair it immediate aromas you will notice here. You’ll also and wild berry aromas are enhanced by spice and with pork rolled with prunes. Imported by recognize background tones of black peppercorn, oak nuances of tobacco and leather. Count on a Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L. lead pencil and licorice. The wine delivers loads bright future for this Brunello Riserva as it inte- Abbadia Ardenga 2004 Riserva of intensity in the mouth. This a big, thick and grates with more time in the cellar. The wine is (Brunello di Montalcino); $NA. dense expression that is ready to drink now. compact, fresh and persistent in the mouth. 90 Imported by Vignaioli. —M.L. Imported by Polaner Selections. —M.L. Here’s a subdued Riserva with a clean bouquet of aromas that faithfully reflect Sangiovese’s main Sesti 2004 Phenomena Riserva La Fortuna 2004 Riserva (Brunello characteristics. You’ll recognize red currants, wet di Montalcino); $NA. Cherry, red earth, pipe tobacco, cola and tar. The mouthfeel (Brunello di Montalcino); $110. Phe- 91 92 apple, spice and moist tobacco emerge from the is simple and fresh although it does impart long- nomena Riserva offers huge intensity and fullness nose of this Brunello Riserva. The wine offers lasting flavors of cherry and spice. Imported by with opulent notes of black fruit, spice and impressive intensity and density in the mouth and Market Wine. —M.L. tobacco. The wine wins points in the mouth where the finish is long lasting and very enjoyable. it shows lovely density and persistency. Imported Imported by MHW, Ltd.. —M.L. Fattoi 2004 Riserva (Brunello di by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —M.L. 90 Montalcino); $95. This is a rich and La Togata 2004 Riserva (Brunello deeply oak-driven expression of Brunello with Tenimenti Angelini 2004 Val di di Montalcino); $134. Made in lim- layers of spice and smoke that sit heavy over ripe Suga Vigna Spuntali (Brunello di 91 92 ited quantities, this austere Riserva exhibits aged fruit aromas of plum, prune and black currant. Montalcino); $80. Elegance, harmony and tones of dried blackberries and currants, exotic The texture is smooth and rich and the tannins persistency characterize this Brunello Riserva spice, tar, cola and powdered licorice. There’s are soft. Imported by Tricana Imports. —M.L. from the Tenimenti Angelini group. Aromas great freshness here that helps propel the wine include ripe berry fruit, spice, leather, tobacco over the palate. Imported by Panebianco. —M.L. Fattoria Scopone 2004 Riserva and cola. Pair this wine with pheasant or game 90 (Brunello di Montalcino); $55. Fat- meat. The high alcohol will keep your palate Lazzeretti 2004 Riserva (Brunello toria Scopone’s 2004 Riserva opens with charred clean. —M.L. 91 di Montalcino); $NA. Buoyant and aromas of campfire, liquid smoke and barbecue fresh with penetrating aromas of red berry, cola, sauce. The fresh fruit notes tend to be on the ripe Tenuta Oliveto 2004 Riserva licorice and natural rubber, the bouquet hits the side: think mature cherry and strawberry. In the 92 (Brunello di Montalcino); $NA. nose in a vertical and direct manner. The wine is mouth, however, this well-crafted wine is smooth, There’s a smoky, meaty element to the bouquet firm and textured in the mouth with a thick tan- silky and long lasting. Imported by Siema LLC. here that recalls smoked bacon or beef jerky. nic coating that moves slowly over the palate. —M.L. Beyond those aromas, you’ll get tons of black cur- Imported by Joshua Tree Imports. —M.L. rant, plum and prune and the wine is satisfying Fornacina 2004 Riserva (Brunello and extremely smooth on the finish. Imported by Lisini 2004 Ugolaia (Brunello di 90 di Montalcino); $66. Here’s a smooth Ima Imports. —M.L. 91 Montalcino); $144. This Riserva and bright Brunello Riserva with beautiful fruit Brunello delivers instant aromas of spice, toast tones followed by delicate notes of spice and Casanova di Neri 2004 (Brunello di and leather that are wrapped seductively around black mineral. Pair this wine with pheasant with 91 Montalcino); $55. Lighter in style and a core of black fruit and plum. Those spice wild rice. Imported by Villa Italia. —M.L. consistency than this producer’s past Brunellos, nuances last long in the mouth and would pair this wine represents a return to Montalcino tradi- with braised meat or beef stew. The tannins are Il Poggione 2004 Vigna Paganelli tion. Aromas include red cherry, wet earth, white tight, so drink after 2014. Imported by Empson 90 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino); mushroom and tobacco. In the mouth, the wine is (USA) Ltd. —M.L. $96. This Brunello Riserva offers very nice inten-

130 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 sity and smoothness in the mouth, although its with a lean, compact color and vinous aromas of the wine has impressive consistency and persis- aromatic bouquet is less determined. There are forest berry and cherry. There’s crisp acidity here tency. Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.L. sweet polished tannins on the close and the wine that will pair perfectly with foods that have a fatty would work with steak marinated with garlic and element such as ricotta-filled pasta or butter Luce della Vite 2005 Luce rosemary. Imported by Terlato Wines Interna- chicken. Imported by Orvino Imports & Distrib- 93 (Brunello di Montalcino); $94. After tional. —M.L. ution. —M.L. long anticipation, this Brunello finally hits the market. The wine is sure to gain enormous suc- La Colombina 2004 Riserva Poggio dell’Aquila 2004 Riserva cess: the packaging is the essence of Italian style (Brunello di Montalcino); $75. 90 This 88 (Brunello di Montalcino); $NA. and the wine itself shows the highest level of Brunello Riserva delivers subdued aromas of Bright and buoyant, this Riserva Brunello offers quality. Rich and opulent aromas of cherry, black- cherry, blackberry, tar and spice. There’s a sour loads of easy, fresh fruit with a point of ripe apple berry, spice and leather abound and the wine cherry theme in the mouth and the finish is bright or white cherry. The wine is smooth and bright on shows enormous length on the finish. Imported and crisp. It is, however, a very food-friendly wine the finish with fresh acidity that follows polished by Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. thanks to the acidity. Pair it with grilled meats, tannins. —M.L. —M.L. wild mushroom risotto or cheesy pasta. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2004 Poggio Antico 2005 Altero 87 Vigna di Pianrosso Santa Caterina 93 (Brunello di Montalcino); $110. Pinino 2004 Pinone Riserva d’Oro Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino); Aged and sophisticated, this hearty and concen- 90 (Brunello di Montalcino); $62. $65. This Riserva Brunello shows sharp, brambly trated Brunello offers ripe tones of blackberry, There’s a raw, succulent element here that is rein- characteristics of forest berry and white cherry. forced by aromas of cherry and blackberry. This plum and prune along with subdued nuances of Although the nose is prickly and awkward, the wine is distinguished by an intensely floral bou- toast and exotic spice. There’s great personality wine wins points in the mouth thanks to its soft- quet with notes of violets, lavender, incense and and dimension here with medium body and a ness and plushness. Imported by Indigenous perfume. It’s bright and tannic at this point, so fresh, berry-driven finish. Imported by Empson Selections. —M.L. give this wine a few more years of cellar aging. (USA) Ltd. —M.L. Imported by USA Wine Imports. —M.L. 2005 BRUNELLO Tenute Silvio Nardi 2005 Vigneto Collemattoni 2004 Vigna 93 Manachiara (Brunello di Montal- Fontelontano Riserva (Brunello di cino); $96. This impressive vineyard designate 89 Cupano 2005 Brunello di Montal- Montalcino); $85. This Brunello Riserva offers Brunello delivers buoyant tones of cherry cola, cino; $140. Cupano has impressed with wood-driven notes of spice and smoke backed by 94 mesquite and balsam notes. There’s a direct and its entire line of Tuscan wines this year. Made with ripe fruit and blackberry preserves. It is sweet immediate nature to the aromas, followed by organically farmed fruit, this wine offers thick con- and rich in the mouth with loads of jammy fruit bright acidity and silky tannins that leave a lasting centration, a velvety texture and bright aromas of on the close. Imported by Vignaioli. —M.L. impression. This is a very beautiful wine that cherry and spice. It’s one of the most opulent Brunellos we’ve seen this vintage. Imported by would pair with meats and oven-roasted pasta Le Potazzine 2004 Riserva dishes. Imported by Kobrand. —M.L. 89 (Brunello di Montalcino); $120. Fairest Cape Beverage Co., Inc. —M.L. Simple and straightforward aromas of red berry Altesino 2005 Montosoli (Brunello Uccelliera 2005 Brunello di Mon- and mineral cap the aromatic nuances expressed di Montalcino); $100. 93 talcino; $60. Uccelliera makes some of in the Brunello Riserva. What the wine lacks is 93 Altesino pro- the best Brunello you will find in the USA. This complexity, although it does feel rich, smooth and duces some of our favorite Brunello and although vintage does a great job of expressing the sun- bright in the mouth. A Marc de Grazia selection; this vintage of Montosoli is less overt than others, drenched territory of Montalcino. Cherry and various American importers. —M.L. the winemakers have worked hard to craft a top shelf expression from this sun-kissed territory. spice round off the bouquet and the mouthfeel is Piccini 2004 Villa al Cortile There’s enormous depth and persistency here characterized by immense smoothness and rich- 89 (Brunello di Montalcino); $45. Pic- with aromas of black fruit, spice and cherry cola. ness. A Marc de Grazia selection; various Ameri- cini offers a great opportunity to experience It’s smooth, rich and long lasting. Imported by can importers. —M.L. Brunello di Montalcino to those who may not Winebow. —M.L. already be familiar with this storied Tuscan wine. Argiano 2005 Brunello di Montal- Available at a more attractive price, the wine is Castello Banfi 2005 Poggio alle 92 cino; $51. From one of the most beau- lean and compact with bright notes of cherry, 93 Mura (Brunello di Montalcino); tiful and historic estates in Montalcino, Argiano’s blackberry and exotic spice. Imported by Aveniu $85. Castello Banfi’s cru expression of Brunello, Brunello is redolent of cherry, cassis, exotic spice, Brands, Inc. —M.L. Poggio alle Mura, is a dark and delicious Brunello smoke and very tame, delicate oak notes of with a vertical aromatic delivery of blackberry, toasted vanilla. The wine is bright and polished Canneta 2004 Riserva (Brunello di currants, plums, cola, mesquite and spice. Sweet with firm tannins and some sour cherry nuances 88 Montalcino); $NA. This Riserva opens oak flavors of vanilla spread over the palate and on the close. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.

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Casanova di Neri 2005 Tenuta tinction thanks to its aromas of wild cherries, cas- presents a tonic, ruby color with pristine aromas 92 Nuova (Brunello di Montalcino); sis, light smoke and Spanish cedar. There’s bright of wild berry, blue flower, earth and ground clove. $75. Beyond the plump notes of cherry and acidity and elegance here. Imported by Selected You’ll like the brightness and determination the blackberry there’s an added touch of clove, car- Estates of Europe Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. wine shows in the mouth as it spreads clean over damom and rosemary sprig that sets this wine your palate. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. apart. The mouthfeel is rich and textured and Mocali 2005 Vigna delle Raunate because the tannins still need to soften, we rec- 92 (Brunello di Montalcino); $55. Caparzo 2005 Brunello di Montal- ommend you put this bottle down in your cellar Mocali boasts a consistent record of top-notch 91 cino; $45. Clean and elegant with pol- for a few more years. Imported by Dalla Terra Brunellos year after year. This expression delivers ished tannins and a silky texture. Caparzo makes Winery Direct. —M.L. meaty tones of smoked bacon backed by mature some of the nicest Brunello you will find in the cherry and raspberry. The concentration and den- USA. This vintage is characterized by bright berry Col di Lano di Giovanna Neri 2005 sity is excellent (especially for this weaker vin- tones and a lean but elegant feel in the mouth. Brunello di Montalcino; $55. Gio- tage) and the firm tannins need two or three 92 Imported by Vineyard Brands. —M.L. vanna Neri’s Brunello sports sweet and enticing more years of cellar aging to soften. Imported by notes of cherry liqueur, vanilla and soft shades of Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. Casanova di Neri 2005 Brunello di cinnamon spice. The wine is opulent and richly Montalcino; $55. Giacomo Neri has concentrated with sweet but firm tannins. Pair Padelletti 2005 Brunello di Mon- 91 seen his share of the media spotlight lately, but this wine with steak in green peppercorn sauce. 92 talcino; $40. Vintner Claudia Padelletti Imported by Vignaioli. —M.L. has crafted a lovely Brunello with bright fruit this honest base Brunello shows loads of fruit nuances and mineral tones that lend a polished, characteristics followed by power and persistency. Il Cocco 2005 Brunello di Montal- dry feel. In the mouth, the wine offers thickness You’ll recognize cherry, blackberry and spice and 92 cino; $46. The Bindi family of Montal- and length. Drink after 2012. Imported by Uva the overall delivery emphasizes pleasure and cino has crafted a fine Brunello with excellent Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. drinkability. You could serve it now or wait three personality and dimension. You’ll get aromas of or four more years. Imported by Dalla Terra Win- black cherry, tart cassis, smoke, exotic spice and Poggio Antico 2005 Brunello di ery Direct. —M.L. cola. It’s marked by elegance, balance and a full, 92 Montalcino; $96. This estate in Mon- generous feel in the mouth. Imported by Four- talcino is a favorite, thanks to its consistent pro- Da Vinci 2005 Brunello di Montal- cade & Hecht Wine Selections. —M.L. duction of seductive and charming wines. Here’s 91 cino; $70. Da Vinci delivers a bright a Brunello that shows territorial characteristics and vibrant Brunello with distinctive notes of Le Chiuse 2005 Brunello di Mon- and careful workmanship with pristine aromas of church incense and Christmas spice. There are 92 talcino; $80. This beautiful wine opens spice, cherry, blackberry and leather. Imported loads of cherry nuances as well as some sweet with impressive intensity and elegance. Aromas by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. vanilla tones. It imparts a smooth, silky feel with a recall wild raspberry, cherry, cassis, cola and sub- long, fruit-driven finish. Imported by E & J Gallo. tle spice shadings. Thanks to the silky nature of its Siro Pacenti 2005 Brunello di Mon- —M.L. tannins, you could pair this wine with lean meats 92 talcino; $70. Attractive aromas of black like game hen or rabbit. Imported by Frederick fruit, plum, coffee and cola emerge elegantly Fattoria La Lecciaia 2005 Vigna Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. from the nose of this solid Brunello di Montal- 91 Manapetra (Brunello di Montal- cino. Siro Pacenti is one of the area’s most historic cino); $55. Here’s an elegant and focused Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi 2005 estates and this expression offers endurance, per- expression from Montalcino with tight aromas of Castelgiocondo (Brunello di Mon- sistency and silky tannins. Imported by Michael 92 blackberry, cola, anise seed and polished black talcino); $70. From the historic Frescobaldi Skurnik Wines. —M.L. stone. The mouthfeel is silky and smooth. Pair family that has been making wine since the 1300s, this wine with rabbit stew with carrots and pota- this concentrated and rich Brunello delivers a Tenute Silvio Nardi 2005 Brunello toes. Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection modern touch to a territory steeped in tradition. 92 di Montalcino; $55. Tenute Silvio Aromas here include plump cherry, blackberry Nardi’s Brunello delivers a plump, ripe quality Ltd. —M.L. and cassis and all that fruit is supported by spice that emphasizes the wine’s naturally fruity and and light toast. Drink after 2012. Imported by succulent personality. Aromas recall mature Fornacina 2005 Brunello di Mon- Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. cherry, leather, pipe tobacco and blackberry. The 91 talcino; $55. Vintner Simone Biliorsi mouthfeel is rich, polished and there’s a touch of has crafted an opulent expression of Brunello Mastrojanni 2005 Brunello di bright acidity on the close. Imported by Kobrand. with sweet aromas of cherry, vanilla and spice. 92 Montalcino; $50. We are impressed —M.L. There’s a pretty, smoothing quality to this wine with what the Illy brothers (of the Italian coffee that is underscored by the silky quality of the tan- dynasty) have done with this historic brand from Altesino 2005 Brunello di Montal- nins and the long persistency of flavors. Imported Montalcino. The wine shows personality and dis- 91 cino; $50. Altesino’s base Brunello by Villa Italia. —M.L.

132 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 Fuligni 2005 Brunello di Montal- and the finish is capped by long, silky tannins. sour note on the end that recalls almond skin or 91 cino; $75. Here’s an austere and sophis- Drink after 2013. Imported by Empson (USA) cassis. Imported by Italian Wine Growers. —M.L. ticated Brunello with a slightly brownish hue to Ltd. —M.L. its garnet color and aged aromas of dried currants San Felice 2005 Campogiovanni and forest berries, spice, mesquite, soy sauce and Mocali 2005 Brunello di Montal- 91 (Brunello di Montalcino); $60. Wild licorice. The wine is exceedingly silky and drying 91 cino; $40. Mocali’s base Brunello from berry and forest aromas open the nose of this in the mouth. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. the four-star 2005 vintage exhibits pretty spice lay- clean and direct Brunello. There’s very nice —M.L. ers of ground clove and black pepper backed by purity and intensity here and the wine showcases loads of fresh berry fruit. The smooth mouthfeel layers of red fruit, plum, spice, leather and rose Il Palazzone 2005 Brunello di presents both crisp freshness and polished tannins. petal. The silky and smooth mouthfeel would 91 Montalcino; $85. Il Palazzone opens Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. work with meat dishes or hearty pasta. Imported with a lean, compact appearance and a bright by Premium Brands. —M.L. ruby color. The bouquet delivers a steady aro- Pietranera 2005 Brunello di Mon- matic lineup of cherries, wild berries, blue flow- 91 talcino; $60. Soft and plush from the San Lorenzo 2005 Bramante ers and light shadings of spice. There’s more start, this bright Brunello spreads over the palate 91 (Brunello di Montalcino); $50. power and persistency here than you’d expect with ease and persistency. Along the way, it Spice, toast and black fruit drive the nose of this and Il Palazzone has succeeded in making a beau- imparts flavors of ripe fruit, blackberry, cherry, plush and ripe Brunello di Montalcino. There are tiful wine in a difficult vintage. Imported by leather and moist pipe tobacco. The mouthfeel loads of cherry, clove and eucalyptus-like aromas Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. is smooth and thick. Imported by Soilair Selec- at the back that give the wine a more youthful tion. —M.L. and fresh impact and fresh acidity seals the deal. Il Poggione 2005 Brunello di Mon- The wine is rich and velvety in the mouth. 91 talcino; $80. The folks at Il Poggione Pietroso 2005 Brunello di Montal- Imported by Votto Vines Importing. —M.L. have produced a fine Brunello with the intensity 91 cino; $60. This is a solid and attractive and aromas you should expect from this four-star Brunello with bright cherry notes backed by softer Tenimenti Angelini 2005 Val di vintage. You’ll get aromas of cherrywood, cola, tones of exotic spice, earth and white pepper. The 91 Suga (Brunello di Montalcino); wild berries and sour plum. There’s a fresh, lean wine boasts a compact and firm feel in the mouth $50. Toasty notes of spice, plum, cherry cola, nature to the mouthfeel and a touch of bitter fruit that would pair with duck, pork or game hen. mesquite and moist earth make this textbook on the close. Imported by Terlato Wines Interna- Imported by Enotria Wine Import. —M.L. Brunello. It has all the aromatic qualities you seek tional. —M.L. in a wine of this workmanship and sophistication. Podere Brizio 2005 Brunello di There’s better density and thickness here too La Fortuna 2005 Brunello di Mon- 91 Montalcino; $NA. Creamy and lus- which helps propel the wine’s persistency on the 91 talcino; $50. Here’s a fortunate cious with sweet fruit tones backed by layers of palate. —M.L. Brunello that is redolent of all the best aromas spice and tobacco, this wine does a nice job of the wine has to offer: blackberry, plump cherry, showcasing the 2005 vintage of Brunello. The Tenuta Poggio il Castellare 2005 pressed violets and exotic spice. There’s a slightly wine is less expressive in the mouth, where it 91 Brunello di Montalcino; $60. This sweet and pulpy quality to the mouthfeel that shows a lean, compact feel with bright acidity. A pretty Brunello opens with a dark garnet color helps drive this wine smoothly over the palate. Marc de Grazia selection; various American and segues to aromas of black cherry liqueur, Imported by MHW, Ltd. —M.L. importers. —M.L. blackberry, soy sauce, cola and dark spice. It’s a brooding, austere expression from Tuscany with La Poderina 2005 Brunello di Mon- Poggio Nardone 2005 Brunello di polished tannins and silky texture. Imported by 91 talcino; $75. This ruby-colored 91 Montalcino; $NA. Vintner Tiziano Margate Wine & Spirit Company. —M.L. Brunello offer a distinct mineral accent that is Ciacci delivers a beautifully extracted wine with surrounded by fruity tones of wild berries, cassis rich ruby highlights backed by mature aromas of Tiezzi 2005 Vigna Soccorso and cherry cola. There’s also a meaty or smoky blackberry, dried currants, clove and cardamom. 91 (Brunello di Montalcino); $45. quality here that gives the wine more heft and The wine is smooth and rich in the mouth with Here’s a dark and concentrated Brunello with determination in the mouth. Drink it with grilled tight tannins and bright berry freshness. thick aromas of spice, smoke and tobacco lavished sausage. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. Imported by Dancing Bear Cellars. —M.L. over a solid core of black fruit. The nose is defi- nitely on the oak-driven side but the mouth is Lisini 2005 Brunello di Montalcino; Ricci 2005 Brunello di Montalcino; bursting with fresh fruit notes. It makes for an 91 $81. From the S. Angelo in Colle sub- 91 $NA. This 2005 Brunello opens with a excellent ensemble. Imported by Michael zone of Montalcino, this seriously fruit-driven soft and supple nose that is accented by tones of Skurnik Wines. —M.L. expression relies on a solid bouquet of cherry, sweet cherry, blackberry and spice. All these ele- blackberry and cassis. Oak-driven layers of spice ments integrate well and the acidity versus tannin Villa I Cipressi 2005 Brunello di and toast appear with more clarity in the mouth equation is equally balanced. There’s a slightly 91 Montalcino; $51. This is a smooth and

WineMag.com | 133 BUYING I GUIDE enduring Brunello with beautiful tones of ripe consistently produces quality Brunello with a shows balanced notes of fruit and spice with a cherry, vanilla bean, moist tobacco and loads of large enough case production to make the wines smooth, silky texture. The density is not too thick blackberry and plum. Drying mineral tones come reasonably easy to locate in the USA. This expres- or overdone and the wine would pair with pasta or into focus on the rear and the wine is plush and sion offers a bright, ruby appearance followed by risotto. Imported by Slocum & Sons, Inc. —M.L. succulent in the mouth with polished tannins. vibrant aromas of cherry and spice. Imported by Imported by Acid Inc Selections. —M.L. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.L. Lambardi 2005 Brunello di Montal- 90 cino; $NA. Maurizio Lambardi presents Belpoggio 2005 Brunello di Mon- Fanti 2005 Brunello di Montalcino; a rich and enticing Brunello with a pretty aromatic 90 talcino; $50. This vintage of Brunello 90 $55. An important and historic player in lineup that spans from bright cherry to sophisti- from Belpoggio delivers thick and luscious tones Montalcino, Fanti comes forth this year with yet cated spice notes. The wine is smooth and firm in of black fruit, plum, spice, blackberry and plump another beautiful Brunello. The wine is elegant the mouth and is ready to drink now. —M.L. cherry. The wine is rich and smooth in the mouth and harmonious with bright layers of cherry fruit, with loads of black fruit nuances and an impres- spice and cola. The feeling it imparts in the Pian dell’Orino 2005 Brunello di sive, long finish. So far, this is our favorite vin- mouth is one of richness and smoothness and 90 Montalcino; $65. What an improve- tage from this producer. Imported by Wine there’s a playful touch of sour cherry on the close. ment over the overripe and jammy 2003 vintage. Worldwide. —M.L. Imported by Tutto Vino. —M.L. This is a nicely ripened, garnet-colored Brunello that boasts impressive aromatic intensity. You’ll Bonacchi 2005 Brunello di Montal- Fattoria La Lecciaia 2005 Brunello notice aromas of blackberry, spice, cherry cola cino; $NA. di Montalcino; $45. 90 Ripe berry fruit and plump 90 Ripe and plump and warmer tones of wet earth, leather and tones of cherry liqueur, blackberry and cassis with pretty aromatic layers of blackberry, cherry tobacco. The wine is thick and textured in the open the nose of this dark and concentrated and spice, this textbook Brunello speaks highly mouth. Imported by Polaner Selections. —M.L. Brunello. There’s also a hint of wet earth or wild of the beautiful territory that shaped it. The mushroom and the wine is rich and smooth on wine is bright, crisp and a touch sour in the Piccini 2005 Villa al Cortile the finish, with tart cherry flavors. —M.L. mouth with enduring flavors of white cherry and (Brunello di Montalcino); $45. cassis. Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection 90 Here’s a genuine and fruit-driven expression of Castello Banfi 2005 Brunello di Ltd. —M.L. Brunello with ripe notes of mature cherry and Montalcino; $55. Dark ruby red in 90 blackberry followed by a focused mineral tone of appearance, this bright Brunello opens with Ferrero 2005 Brunello di Montal- black stone or chalkboard. You’ll also get interest- vibrant fruit tones that fall harmoniously in step cino; $50. This hearty Brunello offers 90 ing layers of eucalyptus, cola and dried herbs at with spicy, oak-driven aromas. Although the wine meaty tones of smoked bacon and ham that are the back. Imported by Aveniu Brands, Inc. —M.L. drinks young now, it has the natural acidity and wrapped over aromas of prune, mature cherry and tannic structure for aging another five years or blackberry. There’s very good persistency here and Rodolfo Cosimi 2005 Bramante more. Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.L. silky tannins help shape the wine’s velvety texture. (Brunello di Montalcino); $40. Imported by Bacchanal Wines. —M.L. 90 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2005 Here is a very attractive approach: equal parts fruit (cherry, blackberry and cassis) matched by 90 Brunello di Montalcino; $33. This Fossacolle 2005 Brunello di Mon- is an elegant Brunello with pretty aromas of wild 90 talcino; $70. Bright and fresh with equal parts spice. There’s a thickness and an over- berries, cassis and white cherry enhanced by buoyant aromas of plum, blackberry and mature all integrity here that gives the wine both staying determined notes of spice and smoke. On the cherry, Fossacolle’s 2005 Brunello (by vintner power and endurance. Pair it with Cornish game nose the wine is vertical and intense but like Sergio Marchetti) is a dark and concentrated hen or roast pork with fennel seed stuffing. many expression from the 2005 vintage, the wine with impressive aromatic depth. The Imported by Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L. mouthfeel is toned down in dimension. Imported mouthfeel is lean and compact with firm, pol- by Indigenous Selections. —M.L. ished tannins. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. San Polo 2005 Brunello di Montal- 90 cino; $70. Here’s a Brunello from the Col d’Orcia 2005 Brunello di Mon- La Fornace 2005 Brunello di Mon- four-star 2005 vintage with a thick, almost creamy 90 talcino; $55. An improvement over 90 talcino; $55. La Fornace delivers a bouquet of ripe fruit, smooth cinnamon or clove, past vintages, thanks to the elegance of its fruit gorgeous Brunello this year with pristine aromas and warm tones of used leather and earth. There’s and the richness of its consistency. The wine is of blackberry, wet earth, violets, blackberries, a fresh acidic component as well with a bright bursting with cherry and cassis flavors and it cherries and pipe tobacco. The wine is thick and berry finish. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. shows harmony and a firm, streamlined nature to enduring with tight tannins and a long, but its mouthfeel. Imported by Palm Bay Interna- slightly sour finish. Drink after 2012. Imported Solaria 2005 Brunello di Montal- tional. —M.L. by Vignaioli. —M.L. 90 cino; $48. There’s a pretty, buoyant or balsamic quality to this fresh Brunello that helps Coldisole 2005 Brunello di Montal- La Gerla 2005 Brunello di Montal- delivers its fruit and spice aromas in a direct and 90 cino; $31. Part of the Lionello March- 90 cino; $40. An extensive aging program immediate manner. That clean approach gives the esi collection of Italian estates, Coldisole has beautifully shaped this Brunello. The wine wine a determined and lasting impression in the

134 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 mouth. Drink it with game meats or steak. Domus Vitae 2005 Brunello di Renieri 2005 Brunello di Montal- Imported by Sherbrooke Cellars. —M.L. 89 Montalcino; $60. Here’s a smoky, 89 cino; $NA. Renieri’s newest Brunello earthy Brunello that shows sophisticated use of offers perfumed tones of church incense backed Tenuta di Sesta 2005 Brunello di oak to render aromas of toast, spice and leather. by Indian spice and red berries. The wine is 90 Montalcino; $110. Tenuta di Sesta There are fresh fruit nuances here as well— bright and tonic with some sour fruit and a nice, consistently produces top-notch Brunello with an mainly cherry and blackberry—and the wine is silky feel to the tannins.—M.L. eye on tradition and territory. Textbook aromas bright, tonic, crisp and relatively lean on the of cherry, leather, earth and blue flowers emerge close. Imported by Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. SassodiSole 2005 Brunello di from the nose. The mouthfeel is silky, persistent 89 Montalcino; $49. This well-aged and fresh. Imported by Monsieur Touton Selec- Fattoi 2005 Brunello di Montal- Brunello shows a brownish hue in its ruby color- ing and exhibits aromas of dried currants, licorice, tion Ltd. —M.L. 89 cino; $41. Here’s a plump and rich aro- cola, balsam and ground white pepper. This matic expression from the 2005 vintage with spicy expression has more heft and determination in Tenuta Friggiali 2005 Brunello di oak tones that are woven within the wine’s natural the mouth (compared to other Brunellos from 90 Montalcino; $55. Harmony and clean fabric of cherry and black fruit. However, in the the 2005 vintage) and lasts long on the palate. delivery of fruit on the nose and mouth mark this mouth the wine is lightweight and lean with a Imported by Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L. wine. You’ll encounter layers of cherry, black- tannic dusting at the end. Imported by Tricana berry, plum, cola and spice. There’s a dusting of Imports. —M.L. Talenti 2005 Brunello di Montal- mineral as well and the tannins are silky but firm. cino; $NA. Riccardo Talenti’s 2005 Imported by Vinifera Imports. —M.L. Innocenti 2005 Brunello di Mon- 89 Brunello offers slightly raw or sharp notes of talcino; $NA. There’s a sharp, brambly Villa Poggio Salvi 2005 Brunello di 89 white cherry, forest berry, spice and cola. There’s quality to this Brunello that recalls aromas of for- definition and linearity here capped by fresh acid- Montalcino; $50. Surrounded by 90 est floor, chopped herb and wild berries. You’ll ity and a specifically firm or polished quality to forests teeming with wild animals and boars, Pog- also get mineral tones, slight graphite tones and the tannins. Imported by Robert Chadderdon gio Salvi has one of Montalcino’s most isolated the mouthfeel is both drying and polished. Pair Selections. —M.L. and unique vineyards. This wine offers cherry and this wine with Porcini risotto or pork medallions. spice aromas with an easy but extremely polished Imported by Mission Wine Company. —M.L. Tassi 2005 Brunello di Montalcino; mouthfeel. Bright acidity at the end underlines $60. Elegant and refined with small aro- those vibrant berries flavors. Imported by Shaw- 89 La Colombina 2005 Brunello di matic pulses of cherry, violets and white mush- Ross International Importers. —M.L. 89 Montalcino; $40. There’s a meaty, room, this wine is very true to the Sangiovese variety. The mouthfeel is light and thin and there’s Abbadia Ardenga 2005 Brunello di smoked element to the nose of this Brunello that recalls beef jerky or sizzling bacon. Those hearty a truly feminine nature to this expression of Montalcino; $NA. This hearty but 89 aromas are followed by delicate layers of black- Brunello. Imported by Wine Emporium. —M.L. genuine Brunello delivers steady aromas of berry, cherry and spice. The wine is bright and cherry, forest fruit, cola, leather and black Tenuta San Giorgio 2005 Ugolforte licorice. It feels simple and easy in the mouth and acidic in the mouth, which makes for an excel- (Brunello di Montalcino); $50. This would make a perfect companion to lasagna with lent balance. Imported by Michael Skurnik 89 Wines. —M.L. is a ripe and plump Brunello that could use two or meat sauce. Imported by Market Wine. —M.L. three years of cellar aging to allow the oak notes to fully integrate. The quality of the fruit is excel- Casanuova delle Cerbaie 2005 Lazzeretti 2005 Brunello di Mon- lent—cherry, blackberry and currants abound. talcino; $NA. This rich expression from 89 Brunello di Montalcino; $65. This 89 Immediately behind those aromas, however, is the 2005 vintage shows some signs of aging that Brunello represents the 2005 vintage perfectly. loads of spice, smoke and tar. Drink after 2012. are evident in its brownish-garnet color and in The wine is not dense or over-concentrated and Imported by Blavod Extreme Spirits. —M.L. the aromas are bright and polished. Everything the wine’s aromas of candied fruit, dried currants, comes in moderation. Pair this wine with lean mesquite, cola and licorice. It’s powerful and Tiezzi 2005 Brunello di Montal- cuts of red meat on the grill. Imported by Castle pleasantly intense in the mouth with bright acid- 89 cino; $40. Toasty notes of almond and Brands. —M.L. ity and silky tannins. Drink now. Imported by walnut are followed by black fruit, cherry and cas- Joshua Tree Imports. —M.L. sis. The wine is bright, sharp and cleansing in the Casisano Colombaio 2005 mouth with tonic acidity and a compact feel over- 89 Brunello di Montalcino; $NA. Com- Poggio dell’Aquila 2005 Brunello all. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. pact and lean in texture, this bright Brunello 89 di Montalcino; $NA. Leaner in con- offers brambly notes of wild berry, cassis, white sistency and milder in temper, this is an elegant Canalicchio di Sopra 2005 Brunello cherry and licorice. The wine is a bit raw and Brunello that puts more emphasis on aromatics 88 di Montalcino; $65. Here’s a tight and thorny in places but the fresh acidity and berry than it does on build and heft. It’s a feminine, compact expression from Montalcino with bright flavors pull it forward. Imported by Laird & delicate expression with enduring notes of spice, tones of cherry wood, wild berries and violets that Company. —M.L. cola and cassis on the finish. —M.L. are delivered in steady aromatic pulses. The fin-

WineMag.com | 135 BUYING I GUIDE ish is not too long or persistent, but the flavors are Le Potazzine 2005 Gorelli Il Marroneto 2005 Brunello di fresh and very tasty while they last. Imported by 88 (Brunello di Montalcino); $65. This 87 Montalcino; $60. There’s a brambly, Vinifera Imports. —M.L. Brunello opens with a bright ruby color and deliv- slightly raw or sharp note here that comes off as ers aromas of cherry cola, Spanish cedar, cigar white cherry, wild berry and spice. In the mouth, Cantina di Montalcino 2005 box, wild berries and spice. It’s a streamlined the wine shows bright acidity and polished tan- 88 Brunello di Montalcino; $NA. A wine that puts more emphasis on elegance than nins. Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates. deep garnet color and rich concentration charac- brawn or power. A Marc de Grazia selection; var- —M.L. terize this austere Brunello di Montalcino. The ious American importers. —M.L. nose is redolent of wild berries, cassis, currants, Vasco Sassetti 2005 Brunello di Rodolfo Cosimi 2005 Terra Rossa leather, dried tobacco and forest floor. In the Montalcino; $NA. Earthy aromas of (Brunello di Montalcino); $60. 87 mouth, the wine is smooth, silky and polished. — 88 white mushroom and dried roses that are charac- Terra Rossa is a bright and polished Brunello with M.L. teristic of Tuscan Sangiovese are what you notice pretty aromas of spice, anise seed, blackberry, first here. The wine then segues to fruit and spice cherry and cola. There’s a note of sour cherry on Conti Costanti 2005 Brunello di aromas, although those berry notes are on the Montalcino; $79. the close and the wine shows bright acidity that 88 Here’s a simple but mature and jammy side. Fresh acidity and firm would pair well with succulent meat and cheesy genuine expression from Montalcino with bright, tannins suggest a pairing with red meat. Imported pasta dishes. Imported by Enotec Imports, Inc. easy fruit tones covered by a delicate layer of by Franco Wine Imports. —M.L. spice and dried tobacco. It’s not too complicated —M.L. or rich, but the wine offers a fresh, easy experi- Tenuta Oliveto 2005 Brunello di ence nonetheless. Imported by Empson (USA) Montalcino; $NA. ROSSO DI MONTALCINO Ltd. —M.L. 88 Among the most extracted and thick Brunellos of this vintage, Poggio Nardone 2008 Rosso di Fattoria Scopone 2005 Brunello di Tenuta Oliveto offers a compelling wine with fresh tones of cherry, red apple and wild berries. 91 Montalcino; $NA. This is a truly out- Montalcino; $40. This is a thick and 88 There’s a slightly thorny or sharp nature to the standing Rosso di Montalcino that shows all the brawny Brunello that shows a lot more heft and bouquet that reminds you of sour fruit, blue flow- ripe and opulent characteristics of the promising personality than some of the weaker expression ers and underbrush. Imported by Ima Imports. 2008 vintage. The wine is rich, smooth and deter- from the 2005 vintage. Fattoria Scopone presents —M.L. mined. The tannins are polished and silky. a rich and textured wine with ripe notes of cherry Imported by Dancing Bear Cellars. —M.L. liqueur and blackberry followed by firm, gritty Baccinetti 2005 Saporoia (Brunello tannins. Imported by Siema LLC. —M.L. 87 di Montalcino); $45. Here’s a dark Mocali 2008 Rosso di Montalcino; and well concentrated Brunello with aromas that $20. Gianni Brunelli 2005 Brunello di 90 Mocali’s bright Rosso di Montal- recall wild berries and appleskin. The fresh inten- cino makes a great first impression thanks to its Montalcino; $75. Gianni Brunelli’s ele- 88 sity of those aromas suggest slight volatility, but vibrant aromas of cherry, blackberry, spice and gant Brunello opens with a bright ruby color and a this doesn’t seem to distract too much from the root beer. The wine is very rich and smooth in lean, tonic appearance. Yet the aromas of cherry, overall picture. In the mouth, the wine is very the mouth with impressive persistency. Imported anise seed and wild flowers are intense and beau- polished and squeaky clean. Imported by Premier by Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. tiful. The mouthfeel is streamlined and compact. Wine Co. —M.L. Imported by Acid Inc Selections. —M.L. Ricci 2008 Rosso di Montalcino; Canneta 2005 Brunello di Montal- $NA. Tenimenti Ricci offers a dark and Il Marroneto 2005 Selezione cino; $NA. There’s a meaty, ripe aspect 90 87 luscious wine with deep aromas of blackberry, 88 Madonna delle Grazie (Brunello di to the aromas here that recall black cherry and cherry, exotic spice and old leather. It’s not as Montalcino); $90. This special selection smoked ham. But there’s also an edgy green tone thick or extracted as the estate’s Brunello, but this Brunello shows ripe notes of strawberry and rasp- that lends a slightly bitter impression in the wine is designed to offer an informal expression berry backed by spice and mature cherry. It’s mouth. Imported by Orvino Imports & Distribu- that can still stand up to grilled meats. This Rosso smooth and bright with a touch of sour fruit on tion. —M.L. the close. Imported by Domaine Select Wine does exactly that. Imported by Italian Wine Estates. —M.L. Collemattoni 2005 Brunello di Growers. —M.L. 87 Montalcino; $55. Collemattoni deliv- La Togata 2005 Brunello di Mon- ers a ripe, fruit-driven Brunello that will appeal to La Poderina 2008 Rosso di Mon- 88 talcino; $72. Here’s a simple but gen- those who enjoy plump, jammy notes in their red 89 talcino; $40. La Poderina’s Rosso uine rendition of Brunello with measured aromas wine. Raspberry, strawberry and mature cherry offers elegant notes of fine spice backed by small of cherry, wild berry and Indian spice. There’s stand out within a larger embroidery of spice and forest berries and currants. This wine excels at more personality in the mouth, however, where tobacco. The wine is soft and smooth with sweet being intense and powerful but in a uniquely the wine shows a soft, supple and smooth texture. berry notes on the close. Imported by Vignaioli. understated way. The finish is silky and smooth. Imported by Panebianco. —M.L. —M.L. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.

136 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 Le Ragnaie 2008 Rosso di Montal- Tenute Silvio Nardi 2008 Rosso di balanced against its spicy finish. Imported by 89 cino; $15. Le Ragnaie offers an attrac- 88 Montalcino; $25. Here’s a lush and Panebianco. —M.L. tively well-balanced Rosso with equal parts spice, modern Rosso di Montalcino with bright aromas dark fruit and tobacco on the nose. In the mouth, of spice and vanilla that play background roles to Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi 2007 this wine is full of dimension and power and its fresh cherry and raspberry. The wine boasts a 87 Castelgiocondo Campo ai Sassi rich berry flavors last a long time. Imported by smooth, supple texture and sweet fruit on the fin- (Rosso di Montalcino); $25. Campo ai Sassi Vine Street Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. ish. Imported by Kobrand. —M.L. is a lush and ripe Rosso with a point of cherry liqueur that appears alongside blueberry, spice, Tenuta Il Poggione 2008 Rosso di Fanti 2007 Rosso di Montalcino; leather and tobacco. The wine is fresh, compact 89 Montalcino; $28. This is the kind of 87 $25. Light and cheerful, this ruby-col- and would pair with succulent cuts of red meat. Rosso di Montalcino you could pair with sea- ored Rosso delivers a mixed bag of aromas. You’ll Imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. soned pork or chicken curry. It has the heft and detect red fruit, barbecue spice, smoked meat, substance to stand up to those spicy foods and leather and prune. It shows very nice intensity and Pinino 2008 Clandestino (Rosso di offers loads of fresh fruit intensity on the close. persistency on the close with a playful touch of 87 Montalcino); $27. Clandestino is an Imported by Terlato Wines International. —M.L. refreshing acidity. Imported by Tutto Vino. —M.L. oak-influenced Rosso di Montalcino with bright aromas of cinnamon, vanilla and chocolate that Camigliano 2008 Rosso di Montal- Fattoria Scopone 2008 Rosso di intermingle with cherry, blackberry and cassis 88 cino; $25. Elegant but austere, this 87 Montalcino; $20. Apart from an obvi- syrup. Pair this wine with pork or poultry. bright Rosso delivers lively aromas of cherry cola, ous emphasis on oak-related aromas of vanilla, Imported by USA Wine Imports. —M.L. dried blueberries, spice and moist pipe tobacco. spice and carpentry shop, this is a satisfying Rosso Floral and mineral tones appear in the mouth and that would pair with roast chicken, potatoes, gar- Pinino 2008 Cupio (Rosso di Mon- the wine ends with a sweet but polished feel. lic and rosemary. The garlic and rosemary would 87 talcino); $19. Cupio offers sharp aro- Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. take the edge off those wood tones. Imported by mas of bramble and spice backed by softer Siema LLC. —M.L. aromas of plum, prune and vanilla bean. The Casisano Colombaio 2008 Rosso di fresh acidity really keeps the palate polished and 88 Montalcino; $NA. This is a very suc- Il Poggiolo 2007 Sassello (Rosso di this wine would pair with cheesy pasta or buttery cessful Rosso di Montalcino with great intensity 87 Montalcino); $25. Here’s a heavily dishes. Imported by USA Wine Imports. —M.L. and loads of cherry and bright berry personality. oak-influenced Rosso that delivers aromas of There are austere notes of earth, cola and spice at vanilla, spice and woodshop over the wine’s natu- San Lorenzo 2007 (Rosso di Mon- the back and the wine feels smooth and silky on ral fruit. In fact, blueberry and cherry flavors 87 talcino); $24. Well balanced and meas- the palate. Imported by Laird & Company. — come through with more clarity in the mouth, ured in terms of its aromatic intensity, this is a M.L. backed by soft, silky tannins. Imported by Enotec clean, straight-shooting Rosso di Montalcino that Imports, Inc. —M.L. will pair with everything from lasagna to ham- Fossacolle 2008 Rosso di Montal- burgers. The wine shows more determination in 88 cino; $33. Here’s a very balanced Rosso La Colombina 2008 Rosso di Mon- the mouth thanks to its thick, supple texture. with contrasting aromas of cherry and red fruit 87 talcino; $20. A brambly note of forest Imported by Votto Vines Importing. —M.L. that stand against spice, chocolate and tobacco. floor or exotic spice emerges first from the nose It’s a bright, spicy wine with power, persistency of this ruby-colored Rosso and is followed by flo- SassodiSole 2008 Rosso di Mon- and a much-needed touch of zesty acidity. ral notes of violets and dried lavender. The wine 87 talcino; $23. Straightforward and hon- Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. is fresh, thin and offers easy informality overall. est, this bright Rosso delivers clean aromas of Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. cherry, blueberry and subtle shadings of smoke Pietranera 2008 Rosso di Montal- and spice. You could pair this wine with lasagna, 88 cino; $NA. An austere element of La Fornace 2007 Rosso di Montal- meat-filled ravioli or light pork or beef roasts. smoked meat, moist pipe tobacco and ripe black- 87 cino; $23. Lean and compact with sub- Imported by Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L. berry opens the nose of this concentrated Rosso di dued aromas of cherry and wild berry, this is an Montalcino. This is a brawny, masculine wine with informal Rosso to drink with roast chicken or Tenimenti Angelini 2008 Val di loads of spicy intensity to match marinated barbe- home-cooked meatloaf. The wine is smooth and 87 Suga (Rosso di Montalcino); $25. cue steak. Imported by Soilair Selection. —M.L. rich on the palate and it offers a cleaning touch True to its definition, this Rosso truly does act as of acidity on the finish. Imported by Vignaioli. “Brunello’s little sister.” It shows the same ele- San Polo 2007 (Rosso di Montal- —M.L. gant aromas of spice and black fruit, but does so 88 cino); $25. San Polo’s Rosso di Montal- in a less intense and more informal manner. That cino offers classic aromas of cherry, black fruit La Togata 2007 Rosso di Montal- same easy feeling translates to the mouth as well. and spice. But it also adds an extra layer of vanilla 87 cino; $30. From the very nice 2007 vin- —M.L. and sweet spice that makes for a very nice ensem- tage, this fresh Rosso di Montalcino offers ble. It’s smooth, rich and spicy on the close. measured aromas of black fruit, spice, plum, cur- Uccelliera 2008 Rosso di Montal- Imported by Winebow. —M.L. rant and moist earth. The wine’s acidity is well 87 cino; $28. Uccelliera regularly pro-

WineMag.com | 137 BUYING I GUIDE duces powerhouse Brunellos. This Rosso evi- brambly note here of forest green and sour spice. The density is thick and opulent and the dently represents a change of pace because cherry that eventually transforms into spice and succulent tannins give the wine even more heft instead of power and intensity, you get ethereal blackberry as the wine spends more time in the and dimension in the mouth. Imported by Vini- aromas of wild berry and green spice. There’s also glass. The mouthfeel is smooth and silky. A Marc landia USA. —M.L. an unexpected touch of sour cherry on the close. de Grazia selection; various American importers. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American —M.L. Fanti 2007 Sassomagno (Sant’An- importers. —M.L. 88 timo); $15. From the Castelnuovo del- Canneta 2008 Rosso di Montal- l’Abate subzone of Montalcino, this bright super Villa I Cipressi 2007 Rosso di Mon- 84 cino; $NA. Canneta presents a thin, Tuscan blend delivers ripe notes of mature 87 talcino; $25. This luminous, ruby-col- ruby-colored Rosso with immediate aromas of cherry, coffee grounds, dried tobacco leaf and ored Rosso delivers aromas of cherry, ripe berry raspberry, red apple, tobacco and spice. The wine cassis syrup. There’s a sweet tone of cherry and fruit and sweet vanilla. There’s a soft, modern is bright and streamlined on the finish with a vanilla in the mouth and the wine’s texture is touch here that has been shaped by oak aging and prickly acidic endnote. Imported by Orvino thick and chewy. Imported by Tutto Vino. —M.L. you’ll taste background flavors of smoke and Imports & Distribution. —M.L. spice. Imported by Acid Inc Selections. —M.L. Mocali 2008 I Piaggioni (Toscana); Poggio dell’Aquila 2008 Rosso di 88 $15. Mocali is a well-established estate Baccinetti 2007 Saporoia (Rosso di 83 Montalcino; $NA. This Rosso shows in Montalcino and I Piaggioni is one of its super Montalcino); $25. 86 This is a powerful awkward aromas of almond paste and lemon zest Tuscan wines. This youthful expression of San- wine, both in terms of alcohol and aromatic inten- on top of characteristic layers of wild berry and giovese offers hearty cherry aromas with loads of sity. You’ll recognize tones of cherry liqueur, spice. It’s light and lean on the palate with crisp pretty spice and vanilla at the back. Imported by blackberry preserves and Indian spice. It’s soft fruit flavors on the close. —M.L. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. and sweeter than most other Rosso di Montal- Tenuta Oliveto 2007 Il Roccolo cino. Imported by Premier Wine Co. —M.L. Mocali 2008 Fossetti (Toscana); (Rosso di Montalcino); $NA. There’s 82 $12. This blend of Sangiovese and Castello Tricerchi 2008 Rosso di an overripe or jammy element to this Rosso that 87 Canaiolo offers a nose of berry fruit and light Montalcino; $NA. Light and luminous resembles blackberry preserves, smoked ham and 86 almond shadings backed by an easy, informal in appearance, this bright Rosso di Montalcino moist tobacco. The wine tastes sweet and sticky in mouthfeel. Pair this fruit-driven red with pasta delivers subdued aromas of raspberry, cherry, cola the mouth and leaves the palate covered with or pizza. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. and wet earth. None of these aromas are particu- strawberry-like flavors. Imported by Ima Imports. —M.L. larly intense, but they are balanced. Imported by —M.L. Monarchia Matt International. —M.L. Poggio Lungo 2007 Morellino di Scansano; $22. Poggio Antico 2008 Rosso di Mon- OTHER TUSCAN REDS 84 Good growing condi- tions in 2007 helped shape this bright, berry- 86 talcino; $48. There’s a brambly, slightly unripe or green aroma that characterizes this vin- Casanova di Neri 2006 Pietradon- driven wine from southern Tuscany. You’ll tage of Poggio Antico’s popular Rosso di Montal- 93 ice (Toscana); $110. This full, plump recognize aromas of cherry, blueberry and min- cino. That said, the wine does fill in smoothly and generous Cabernet Sauvignon offers loads of eral backed by a firm texture and sour cherry fla- over the palate with wild berry and spice flavors. ripe fruit, smoothness and intensity. If you love vors. This is a simple, easy-drinking expression. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. rich, sun-filled red wines from Tuscany, this is a Imported by R&R Wine Imports Inc. —M.L. perfect choice. In the mouth, you get firm tan- Fornacina 2008 Rosso di Montal- nins and bright cherry flavors on the close. Excel- Poggio Lungo 2008 Morellino di 85 cino; $24. This is a light and loosely fra- lent. Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct. 83 Scansano; $20. Jammy notes of straw- grant Rosso with tones of raspberry, cherry and —M.L. berry and raspberry preserves open the nose of blueberry. It’s easygoing and simple in style with this overripe Morellino di Scansano. The wine is fresh acidity on the close. Imported by Villa Italia. Fattoria La Lecciaia 2005 Sant’An- dark and concentrated but all that mature fruit —M.L. 90 timo; $20. This deeply colored blend leaves a raw, chewy sensation on the finish. of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese Imported by R&R Wine Imports Inc. —M.L. La Fortuna 2008 Rosso di Montal- offers a soft and layered bouquet of cherry, spice, 85 cino; $22. La Fortuna’s Rosso offers leather and tobacco. The wine is smooth and lus- contrasting aromas of spice, red apple, wild berry, cious with a particularly spicy finish. Imported by TUSCAN ROSÉ bramble and cherry liqueur. It boasts a deep ruby Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. color and in the mouth, it feels pointed and edgy. Belguardo 2009 Belguardo Rosé Imported by MHW, Ltd.. —M.L. Máté 2006 Mantus (Sant’Antimo); 85 (Toscana); $17. A 50-50 blend of Syrah 89 $45. Here’s a thick, powerful and sweet- and Sangiovese, this delicately pink Tuscan rosé Le Potazzine 2008 Gorelli (Rosso smelling expression of Merlot from Montalcino offers bright aromas of raspberry, pink grapefruit, 85 di Montalcino); $28. There’s a sharp, with ripe aromas of cherry, blackberry and Indian cranberry and almond skin. Pair this wine with

138 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 salmon canapé and other appetizers. Imported palate of raw blackness and finally an explosion of by Palm Bay International. —M.L. SPAIN creamy mocha, vanilla and woodspice. Needs a couple of more years but not 10 or 20. Imported RED WINES by European Cellars. Cellar Selection. —M.S. TUSCAN WHITES RIBERA DEL DUERO Viña Sastre 1999 Pago de Santa Cruz Gran Reserva (Ribera del Mazzei 2009 Belguardo (Toscana); 96 Viña Sastre 2006 Pesus (Ribera Duero); $119. A classic wine with maturity but $17. 88 Here’s a gorgeous Vermentino (with 100 del Duero); $750. If there’s any still a lot to give. Aged 24 months in American small percentages of other white grapes blended such thing as the perfect Spanish red, Pesus is it. oak then 12 more months in French barrels, this in) that shows a luminous, golden color and bright A blend of 80% Tempranillo with other grapes GR is leathery and powerful, with firm tannins aromas of white peach, apricot and dried hay. The including Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine sees supporting dry berry fruit flavors accented by wine makes an extremely clean, fresh and vibrant 200% new oak, resulting in a thick, dark, tannic copious amounts of tobacco, mint, vanilla and beauty that bubbles over with toast, cola, mint, more. Will continue to age and soften; drink now impact in the mouth. Imported by Palm Bay chocolate and spice aromas. The mouth is sheer through 2025. Imported by De Maison Selec- International. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. heaven; a mile deep in terms of berry flavor and tions, Inc. Cellar Selection. —M.S. more, but faultless and smooth. Shows outstand- Castello Montaúto 2008 Vernaccia ing structure and power, and should age well for Monteabellón 2006 Finca La Blan- 87 di San Gimignano; $20. You’ll really 15–20 years. Hails from two 100-year-old vine- 95 quera Tempranillo (Ribera del love this simple and clean white wine from sunny yards and some baby vines with but 25 years of Duero); $NA. Having only tasted this winery’s age. Crazy expensive but only 150 cases were basic RdDs, this single-vineyard whopper comes Tuscany. The aromas here are crisp and fragrant, made; drink 2013–2030. Imported by De Maison as a huge and pleasant surprise. The nose is pure recalling peach, apricot and pear. The wine is Selections, Inc. Cellar Selection. —M.S. as can be and driving, with richness, coffee and zippy in the mouth but it also awards enough nat- more. The palate is juicy and intense, with boy- ural structure for tuna or sushi. Imported by Viña Sastre 2005 Regina Vides senberry, blackberry, toast and chocolate. Very Banfi Vintners. —M.L. 98 (Ribera del Duero); $195. From concentrated and powerful; a wine that exudes vines that are between 80 and 100 years, this is a and also inspires passion. Drink 2012–2021. Cecchi 2008 Litorale (Maremma); marvelous example of top-notch Spanish red Imported by JW Sieg Wines. Editors’ Choice. wine, regardless of region and grape variety. Hails —M.S. 87 $18. Cecchi, the historic estate in Chi- from four vineyards, and the product is dark, con- anti Classico, is doing beautiful work at their sec- centrated, sultry, masculine and impressive. Giant Vega Sicilia 2000 Unico (Ribera del ond property in Maremma, southern Tuscany. black fruit flavors, texture, richness, coffee and 95 Duero); $450. Like liquid silk, it’s so Litorale Vermentino really does conjure up cola make it truly special. Drinkable now; best in smooth and supple. Aromas of fresh mountain images of sea, sand and heaping servings of 3–5 more years. Imported by De Maison Selec- herbs pour forth from the glass along with the seafood. The wine is light, fresh and very tasty. tions, Inc. —M.S. scents of cherry, cough drop and dried spices. Very light on its feet with pronounced elegance as Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.L. Aalto 2006 PS (Ribera del Duero); opposed to raw power. The palate is sleek and $115. A beautiful but enormous style of feminine, with flavors of dried red fruits, rasp- Mocali 2009 Fossetti (Toscana); 97 red wine with char, leather and saturated black berry and light medicinality. Spectacular as per 87 $15. Mocali’s Fossetti estate delivers a fruit aromas. There’s also some lemony oak that usual, with 85% Tempranillo and 15% Cab Sauvi- fantastically crisp and easy white blend of will shed itself with time. Overall, it’s rich, deli- gnon. Drink now–2025. Imported by Europvin. Chardonnay, Moscato and Trebbiano with the cious and a real fruit bomb with chocolate, Editors’ Choice. —M.S. natural creaminess, floral aromatics and freshness vanilla, caramel, coffee and mocha, all of which are reflections of the oak aging it sees. PS stands Astrales 2007 Tempranillo (Ribera you’d expect of those three grapes respectively. for s seleccionados, and it’s really an example of 94 del Duero); $67. Shows almost all It’s the perfect fish or pasta salad wine. Imported the new school in full session. Best 2013–2017 that’s great about the region: dark, smoky, floral by Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. due to its heft and extraction. Imported by Euro- berry and chocolate aromas followed by juicy, pean Cellars. Cellar Selection. —M.S. acid-driven boysenberry, spice, bitter chocolate Morisfarms 2009 Maremma; $19. and peppery flavors. An excellent effort for a 86 This is a very attractive and straightfor- Aalto 2006 Tempranillo (Ribera del tough vintage, with dynamite power and a poise. Duero); $55. ward Vermentino from southern Tuscany. This 96 Mariano Garcia’s deft Drink 2012–2018. Imported by Grapes of Spain. winemaking touch and propensity for making —M.S. native variety is gaining in popularity and it’s easy monster RDDs is etched into this massive, to see why: the wine is fresh, crisp and very extracted heavyweight, and wow is it good! After Pago de los Capellanes 2006 bright on the close. Imported by Polaner a touch of early heat, there’s dusty black fruit aro- 94 Reserva (Ribera del Duero); $54. Selections. —M.L. mas, spice galore, floral notes and then a huge Sensational RDD Reserva with dry, smoky, ele-

WineMag.com | 139 BUYING I GUIDE gant aromas and then a super-juicy, fresh, finely Wonderful on the bouquet, where earthy notes Pago de los Capellanes 2005 etched palate with composed cola, cherry, rasp- blend perfectly with alert, bright fruit aromas. 92 Parcela El Nogal Tempranillo (Rib- berry and more. This wine exhibits merit after This is a sizable, full-bodied wine with leather, era del Duero); $NA. A super-classy wine with merit; it’s complex yet easy to like. Really excel- lively fruit character and a dose of rich chocolate. intensity to spare. The nose and palate are both lent for the money. Drink 2011–2018. Imported It’s in excellent shape and shows impressive bal- high-toned and piercing, and red fruit aromas and by Antalva Imports. —M.S. ance and depth. Delicious to the core, with heft flavors are supreme. Along with the currant and and noticeable oak that should lessen if given raspberry character, there’s mild medicinal fla- Viña Sastre 2006 Pago de Santa more time. Drink now–2019. Imported by vors, cherry cough drop and lots of length and Cruz Tempranillo (Ribera del 94 Tradewinds Specialty Imports. —M.S. power. Impressive for sure. Drink 2012–2020. Duero); $84. A unique style of old-vines, single- Imported by Antalva Imports. —M.S. vineyard Ribera aged 100% in new American oak, Vizcarra 2006 Ines Tempranillo thus it delivers telltale aromas of fennel, dill, Vega Sicilia 2005 Valbuena (Ribera (Ribera del Duero); $125. More vanilla and licorice/anisette. Aged 18 months in 93 del Duero); $190. Opens with classy muscular and dark than its sibling Celia, with 92 barrel so it’s oaky, but it’s also dark, loaded with aromas of lavender, thyme, sage and medicinality, rich, jammy, sweet aromas of mocha and baked black fruit and spice, and chocolaty. Nuances i.e. plum liqueur. Super-silky and smooth in the berries. It’s an oaky style that works due to the include cola and the perfect raisin. A lovely wine mouth, with velvety tannins and an elegance not wine’s massive concentration and structure. It that hits the spot. Best 2012– 2020. Imported by found in most of the staunch, powerful wines of flows easily with no coarseness or roughness. De Maison Selections, Inc. —M.S. the region. Finishes almost creamy, with notes of Excellent and cut from the modern mold. Drink tobacco, vanilla and cedar. 85% Tempranillo with Alion 2006 Tempranillo (Ribera del now–2018. Imported by Ole Imports. —M.S. 15% Merlot and Malbec. Imported by Europvin. 93 Duero); $90. A lovely, modern-styled —M.S. wine with clean, pure elegance on the nose, Carmelo Rodero 2005 Reserva palate and finish. It opens with a blast of toast, 92 Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero); Garcia Figuero 2006 Tinus (Ribera and then unfolds with fresh black fruit flavors, $NA. A very fruity, forward wine that’s rich and 91 del Duero); $599. A new specialty smooth but lively tannins, and nice touches of friendly and quite delicious. The nose tips things wine from the Figuero family shows a meaty, heft, drive and simplicity. As good as Alion is, it’s off with black plum, chocolate and other sweet, roasted bouquet and some leather, while below not a complicated or overly complex wine. Best dense aromas, while the palate is full of boysen- the aromas there’s a palate that’s rich, profound, 2011–2017. Imported by Europvin. Editors’ berry, raspberry, cherry and fine tannins and slightly baked in character and very sweet and Choice. —M.S. overall balance. Simply put, this is a fine RDD deep. A Yum Yum type of rich RDD with a finish with vibrancy and lots of quality. Drink defined by baked blackberry and molasses. Astrales 2006 Christina Tem- now–2018. —M.S. Drink now–2013. Imported by Quintessential 93 pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $87. Wines. —M.S. Not as expressive as other Astrales wines, but still Luis Cañas 2006 Hiru 3 Racimos very rich and bruising, with a smooth, lush, won- 92 Tempranillo (Rioja); $118. Dense, Montecastro 2006 Tempranillo derful mouthfeel and attractive aromas. Concen- rich and well carved, with chocolate, balsamic 91 (Ribera del Duero); $45. Shows some trated but not as voluminous as many RDD notes, moss and burnt toast to go with beefy black youthful spunk and minerality on the nose along top-rate wines, with flavors of fig, wild berry, fruit aromas. The palate is full, generous and not with ample char and pepper. The palate is deep chocolate and pepper. Lots to ponder here; an at all lazy, with blasting blackberry, cassis, tobacco and layered with pure black fruit flavors, choco- excellent example of what this winery is capable late and mellow tannins, and overall there’s no and toasty flavors. Acidic and tannic on one hand, of. Drink 2012–2020. Imported by Grapes of off aromas, tastes or textures to do battle with. but deep and pure on the other. It needs a few Spain. —M.S. Drink now–2015. Imported by Classical Wines. more years to knit together. Drink 2012–2018. —M.S. Imported by Henriot Inc. —M.S. Felix Callejo 2005 Seleccion de Vinedos de la Familia Tempranillo Val Sotillo 2006 Crianza (Ribera 93 Pago de los Capellanes 2004 El (Ribera del Duero); $100. A rich, deep style del Duero); $35. Vibrant and honest, Picón (Ribera del Duero); $240. 91 of Tempranillo with earth and leather aromas 92 with expressive raspberry and cherry aromas and along with a lot of new oak. Violet in color, with Bright, snappy and somewhat high in acidity, but flavors accented by mint leaf, liqueur and cassis. matching aromas of plum, berry, tobacco and also vibrant and excellent as a whole. The fruit Really hits the spot and then fades away in no chocolate. Pretty yet stout in the mouth, with falls squarely into the plum, raspberry and red hurry. A smoking-good crianza that hammers intense berry fruit flavors and all the length one currant spectrum, while that acidity pushes the home the fact that Ismael Arroyo’s wines are still could ask for. Rich and ready to drink, but can wine to run and run. A dynamo with length, char- leaders in RDD. Drink now–2015. Imported by age until 2018 with no problem. Imported by The acter, structure and angularity. Probably not for Tradewinds Specialty Imports. —M.S. Artisan Collection. —M.S. those who prefer dark, lush RDDs. Drinkable now but could still use another five years of time Viña Sastre 2007 Crianza Tem- Val Sotillo 2004 Reserva Tem- on its side. Imported by Antalva Imports. Cellar 91 pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $33. 93 pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $60. Selection. —M.S. Kicks off with a blend of herbs, wild flowers,

140 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 lavender and toasty oak. It’s a fresh, clean, semi- thus the wine is kind of spiky and angular. Still, it’s on the finish. Needs another year in bottle to show rich RDD with beautiful berry fruit, chocolate a very nice RDD, just not as generous as it could better. Imported by RV Distributors. —M.S. and a slight bit of char. An exciting wine with deli- or should be. Drink now–2019. Imported by The cious core flavors and no toughness, hard tannins Artisan Collection. —M.S. Protos 2007 Crianza Tempranillo or heat. A bit dark and bitter on the finish, like a 86 (Ribera del Duero); $NA. A simple good espresso. Drink now–2014. Imported by De Montecastro 2007 Alconte Tem- but nice style of Ribera wine with open plum and Maison Selections, Inc. —M.S. 89 pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $23. berry aromas as well as snappy, juicy, fresh red Alconte is the new second wine from Montecas- fruit flavors. It’s a touch biting and zesty at this Vizcarra 2006 Celia Tempranillo tro, but it doesn’t take a back seat to anything. point, but if you don’t mind a little bite and zap 91 (Ribera del Duero); $125. A bright It’s powerful juice, with a strong mineral/floral it’s perfectly good. Imported by RV Distributors. and very pretty wine that bursts with raspberry element on the bouquet. Aged only a year in oak, —M.S. and plum aromas. The palate is finely balanced it maintains a crisp, charred character and shows and clean as a whistle, and in general this small- tight raspberry flavors, chocolate and pepper. Protos 2008 Roble Tempranillo production bottling represents the region grace- Features all the right stuff for a debut wine from 84 (Ribera del Duero); $NA. Quite can- fully, but with some kick and power. It only gets a strained vintage. Imported by Classical Wines. died and jumpy on the nose, what some might richer and more serious with airing. Drink —M.S. call bug juice. Having spent six months in Ameri- 2012–2022. Imported by Ole Imports. —M.S. can oak, it’s tight and tough on the palate, with Neo 2007 Punta Esencia Tem- fresh, juicy acidity that’s a bit scouring. Tastes Felix Callejo 2006 Reserva Tem- pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $95. much like milk chocolate and candied fruit. pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $40. 89 90 Floral and fruity, with clean aromas. In the Imported by RV Distributors. —M.S. Rich and very good, with depth and a chocolaty mouth, it’s saturated and intense as if offers up a essence that shows itself on the front and back meaty set of dense fruit flavors. Doesn’t show as ends of the wine. Pure in terms of berry fruit fla- much complexity, layering and variety as we RIOJA vors, and with good verve and mouthfeel. A bal- might like to see, but it’s pretty flashy and good anced, spot-on wine with serious structure, style Muga 2006 Torre Muga (Rioja); for a 2007, a vintage that was problematic in this and follow through. Drink now–2015. Imported $94. Among the world’s bruising, full- region. Imported by Grapes of Spain. —M.S. 93 by The Artisan Collection. —M.S. bodied wines, Torre Muga is a flag bearer. This vintage offers cola, pepper, coffee and sweet Neo 2007 Tempranillo (Ribera del O. Fournier 2006 Spiga Tem- blackberry fruit aromas, and the palate is tannic, Duero); $69. A good to very good wine pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $31. 88 acidic, grabby and full of life. Flavors of black- 90 with medicinality on the nose that takes over the Starts with dark, statuesque aromas led by min- berry, dark plum and spice are pure as they come, aromatics. There’s also the slightest bit of hard eral, leather and wood smoke. A powerful, with espresso on the finish. Let this sit another cheese and stem on the bouquet, so overall it is intense wine with clean, rich flavors of black few years to allow the fierce tannins to mellow; fighting an uphill battle. Along the way it delivers plum, chocolate and raisin. It’s a touch on the best 2012–2017. Imported by Fine Estates From flavors of cough drop, cherry and a good, solid sweet and chewy side, with some tannic bite and Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S. heat, but overall it’s rock-solid and very nice. finish. Imported by Grapes of Spain. —M.S. Drink now–2013. Imported by Fine Estates Muga 2006 Aro (Rioja); $201. Deep Viña Sastre 2008 Roble Tem- From Spain. —M.S. and lavishly oaked, with aromas of pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $20. 91 88 toasted hickory, purple grapes, gaseous earth and Carmelo Rodero 2007 Crianza Opens with young, punchy aromas of candied black, heavy fruit. Nothing is shy or subtle here; 89 Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero); raspberry and strawberry. The body is easygoing it’s an erupting volcano of hard black fruit, tannin, $NA. For an ’07, this shows nice fruit and a but the flavors and overall character are more hickory smoke and heat. It shows flashes of ele- direct, honest approach. The nose offers up spice complex than you might expect because Sastre gance and potential but also a lot of raw power. and berry aromas along with some buttery oak, only made this wine and a crianza in ’08 while Needs a minimum of 3–4 years of cellar time to and that creamy woodiness carries onto the palate eschewing its high-end wines. With this youngster soften up. Tempranillo with 30% Graciano. and blends well with juicy, crisp red fruit flavors expect moderate size and intensity, and a full, Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. Cellar that are representative of the vintage and region. semilong finish. Imported by De Maison Selec- Selection. —M.S. Drink now–2014. —M.S. tions, Inc. —M.S. Solabal 2006 Esculle de Solabal Felix Callejo 2004 Gran Reserva Protos 2005 Reserva Tempranillo 91 (Rioja); $118. A ruggedly dark and 89 Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero); 87 (Ribera del Duero); $NA. Seems modern Rioja with cola, rooty black fruit and $70. A wine that reflects its northern Ribera more earthy and damp than you might expect, burnt toast draped on a thick, mocha-laden nose. location (Sotillo) through zesty, pointed aromas with minerally notes. Sort of fiery and rugged on The palate is huge and grabby as well as rich and and some gritty char and minerality. The nose the palate, with tough tannins and only modest lovable, with black fruit, mocha, coffee ice cream shows plenty of solid oak, chocolate and spice, roundness and richness for a reserva-level wine and slight raisin flavors. Tannic and tough on the and in the mouth the acids are a bit sharp and from a good vintage. Shows some bitter chocolate finish, with spice, herbs and chocolate. Drink

WineMag.com | 141 BUYING I GUIDE from 2011 through 2015. Imported by Fine Altanza 2007 Capitoso Tem- heavy. Drink now through 2012. Imported by Estates From Spain. —M.S. 88 pranillo (Rioja); $16. Good, pure, Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. dark and teetering on powerful, with strong, rich Baron De Ley 2004 7 Viñas Reserva black plum aromas. The mouth is staunch and Pagos del Rey 2007 El Circulo Cri- 90 (Rioja); $68. A rich, more modern type balanced, with full dark fruit flavors of blackberry 87 anza (Rioja); $14. Sort of scratchy and of Rioja with dark color, slightly raisiny berry aro- along with bitter chocolate. Solid and clean generic on the nose, with reasonably fresh red mas and molasses, vanilla and mocha on the nose. throughout. A winner in its price range. Imported fruit aromas. The mouthfeel is angular and The palate is full and chewy, with cola, fig and by The Artisan Collection. —M.S. clipped by piercing acidity, while the flavors are wild berry flavors. Stylish and creamy on the fin- of nice but regular black cherry and plum. Fairly Bodegas Franco-Españolas 2006 ish, and very pleasant as a whole. 55% Tem- juicy and fresh as a whole. Imported by Luneau Rioja Bordón Crianza Tempranillo USA Inc. —M.S. pranillo with four other grapes blended in, 88 (Rioja); $12. A nice, floral, medium-bodied including Graciano and Garnacha. Imported by Rioja that should not steer anyone wrong. The Bodegas San Prudencio 2007 Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. nose is harmonized and not overpowering, while 87 Envite Crianza (Rioja); $22. Opens the feel is good and easy and the flavors of berry, with sweet fruit aromas, a whiff of oak and red Finca Allende 2006 Calvario plum and mild chocolaty oak work well together. candy, while the mouthfeeel is juicy and mostly (Rioja); $145. A fine wine but not up to 90 Holds its line on the finish as well. Imported by fresh, with clean fruit flavors and more than ade- par with previous renditions. This vintage has Admiral Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. quate ripeness and sweetness. Fresh, composed proprietary blueberry, floral and jammy aromas, and pleasant in the scheme of things. Imported while the palate is narrow and a touch sheering Bodegas Valdemar 2006 Conde de by The Artisan Collection. —M.S. and tannic, with jammy dark berry flavors and not 88 Valdemar Crianza Tempranillo a lot of variety or complexity. Forward, linear and (Rioja); $15. In many ways, this is Valdemar’s Finca del Marquesado 2006 Cri- monotone, but what’s here is quite good. Drink best wine in that it’s always consistent and satisfy- 87 anza (Rioja); $10. Composed, bal- now–2013. Imported by Fine Estates From ing. The nose on this vintage offers a blast of anced and with all the dots connected; this is Spain. —M.S. sweet coconut and then black fruit aromas, and what we like about basic, affordable Rioja. It’s while there’s acidity front and center it doesn’t fleshy yet fresh, with snappy cherry and raspberry Marqués de Campo Nuble 2006 come across sharp. Instead, the focus is on plum flavors accented by a wave of vanilla that contin- 90 Reserva Tempranillo (Rioja); $22. and raspberry fruit and a finish that picks up ues onto the finish. Blends good flavors, weight Full and spicy from the get-go, with hints of clove steam. Imported by CIV/USA. —M.S. and acidic crispness. Imported by CIV/USA. Best vying with savory berry and leather. The optimum Buy. —M.S. word to describe this wine is friendly, meaning it Castillo Labastida 2004 Reserva delivers ripeness, berry flavors and sweet, spicy 88 (Rioja); $22. Nice wine with standard Altanza 2004 Lealtanza Selección accents that complete the package. Leans toward Rioja aromas of raspberry, vanilla, licorice and 86 Especial Reserva Tempranillo baked and sweet but keeps things properly dill. The palate has life and kick due to protrud- (Rioja); $36. A chunky wine with compost, cof- framed. Imported by USA Wine West. —M.S. ing acidity, while the flavor profile is based on fee and leather on the nose. The palate holds snappy, high-toned plum and red berry. Softer on onto that chunkiness with clumsy flatness that Sierra Cantabria 2006 Crianza the finish, where butter and vanilla notes rise up. goes with herbal plum and berry flavors. Airing 90 Tempranillo (Rioja); $19. Like almost Drinkable now but will hold for another few allows it to unfold and find a better place, but years. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. always does it seem heavy and on the murky side. all wines from this label, the welcome mat is Imported by The Artisan Collection. —M.S. rolled out. The nose shows textbook tea, herb, Marques de Tomares 2006 Crianza black cherry and leathery notes, while the palate (Rioja); $19. Falls into the dark and Bodegas Bilbainas 2007 Viña Zaco is round, pure in feel, and full, with sous bois, 88 roasted category, with aromas of leather, black Tempranillo (Rioja); $15. Opens with light oak and dark fruit flavors. Long and persist- 86 fruits and toast. The palate is saturated and full, bright, popping cherry aromas that are straight- ent on the finish. A wine that gets it right. with dark, roasted black fruit, molasses and spice forward, much like the rest of the show. The Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. flavors. Warm on the finish almost to the point of palate is regular and healthy in feel, with stan- being hot, but not quite. A very solid wine overall. dard cherry and raspberry flavors. Finishes the Marqués de Campo Nuble 2006 Imported by Parador Selections, LLC. —M.S. slightest bit toasty and warm. Nice but basic 89 Campo Burgo Reserva Tempranillo Rioja. Imported by Aveniu Brands, Inc. —M.S. (Rioja); $20. Roasted and charred, with a a clear Ramirez de la Piscina 2004 and present barrel influence along with thyme, 88 Reserva Tempranillo (Rioja); $20. Bodegas Palacio 2007 Glorioso herbs and tomato leaf. In the mouth, it’s sweet Familiar aromas of black fruit, licorice and earth 86 Tempranillo (Rioja); $10. Mildly and ready, with ripe berry flavors touched up by get it going, followed by saturated body weight earthy, leathery and light in color, with rooty aro- cocoa. Toasty and a little minty on the finish, but that reaches all corners of the mouth while dis- mas and tree bark on the nose. The palate is good, flavorful and perfectly good as a whole. Imported playing earthy, chunky blackberry and black maybe a bit sharp and angular, with savory flavors by USA Wine West. —M.S. cherry flavors. Flush, comfortable and slightly of tomato, red plum and earth. Dry on the finish

142 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 and good for everyday consumption. Imported by cherry and chocolate mint character is present Sweet and fiery on the nose, with piercing aromas HAB North America. Best Buy. —M.S. throughout. Creamy on the tongue, but con- that burn right up your nasal passages. The palate fected in terms of flavors and finish. Imported by is pinched and super tannic, with biting flavors of Finca Nueva 2006 Crianza Tem- Opici Import Company. —M.S. black licorice, blackberry and cola. Could be bet- 86 pranillo (Rioja); $15. Grapey and ter with a softer, smoother mouthfeel but seeing potent as Rioja crianzas go, with a medium-to- Marqués de Campo Nuble 2007 that this is an ’04 with six years behind it, it isn’t full-sized palate that’s full of bright acidity and 84 Crianza Tempranillo (Rioja); $15. going to soften up much. Imported by Specialty standard but solid berry fruit flavors. It’s the Somewhat stewy and leathery for starters, with a Cellars. —M.S. slightest bit creamy and thick on the finish, but thick, creamy palate that shows stemmy, roasted overall it’s about as middle of the road as any wine plum and berry flavors. The feel is solid and Marqués de Olivara 2005 Reserva on the market. Imported by Fine Estates From thick, but the flavors don’t really come around 83 (Toro); $14. Balsamic and hard, with a Spain. —M.S. and settle. Imported by USA Wine West. —M.S. briney, stemmy set of chemical-tinged black fruit aromas. The palate hits with force and noise; it’s Marques de Tomares 2007 Don Rioja Vega 2007 Crianza (Rioja); hard, tannic and unforgiving. The flavors of baked 85 Román (Rioja); $15. A standard Rio- 83 $12. Smells fairly burnt and dull, with berry are rich, but the finish is grating and blazes jano red with crisp cherry aromas followed by a earthy, stemmy aromas that are strained and with tannic burn. Imported by USA Wine West. zesty, slightly tart palate that carries punchy cherry tough. The palate reflects the nose with heavy, —M.S. fruit, acidity and little nuance or character. Tastes roasted, leathery plum flavors that finish with a a tiny bit sour by today’s measurements, but it’s meaty thud. Rustic and stemmy, with a low pulse. still pretty good for being crisp and acid-driven. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. CAMPO DE BORJA Imported by Parador Selections, LLC. —M.S. Alto Moncayo 2007 Garnacha Vallobera 2004 Reserva Tem- TORO (Campo de Borja); $45. Excellent pranillo (Rioja); $29. For an ’04 92 85 Garnacha in very modern dressing. The nose is reserva, this wine is more edgy, grabby and high Finca Sobreño 2005 Seleccion sweet, candied, lightly baked and rich, with hints in acid than expected. The nose shows old world Especial (Toro); $35. Earthy, rich and 90 of prune, coconut and fine aged cheese. The leather, spearmint and smoked meat more than black as night, with roasted blackberry aromas palate is smooth and deep, with blackberry, vibrant fruit, yet the palate is tangy, citric and that draw you in. Then the palate keeps you molasses and licorice flavors. Sturdy and studly tastes of red raspberry and plum. Slightly more there, and even if it runs a bit hard and tannic, wine, with weight and only a pinch of heat and creamy on the finish, but still it remains scratchy. the integrity and flavors of coconut, roasted berry bite. Six hundred cases produced; drink Imported by Axial Wines USA. —M.S. and coffee are fine and dandy. Boisterous and big, now–2012. Imported by Fine Estates From but that’s Toro for you. Imported by Kysela Père Spain. —M.S. Bodegas Valdemar 2007 et Fils. —M.S. Inspiración Valdemar (Rioja); $20. 84 Alto Moncayo 2007 Aquilon Gar- Smells a little too much like berry candy and Tardencuba 2005 Crianza Tem- nacha (Campo de Borja); $161. cough syrup to win you over, and the palate is 86 pranillo (Toro); $22. Starts out mud- 91 kind of flat and chunky as well as thick with dled and murky, and eventually settles on rich, Smoky, toasty and rich, with no shortage of power creamy berry fruit. Points of acidic bite give it raisiny and slightly stewed. Seeing that this is and fire in the hole. The palate is meaty and life, but things are brought back down on the fin- Toro, some overripeness is almost a given, and dense, with black fruit, black pepper and heat. ish with green, creamy oak notes. Imported by thus the black fruit and licorice flavors are But even with the unavoidable heat the wine CIV/USA. —M.S. expected. Finishes warm, toasty and short, with a shows balance along with attractive finishing fla- candied hollowness. Imported by The Artisan vors of fig, beef jerky, licorice and chocolate. Campo Viejo 2006 Crianza Tem- Collection. —M.S. Undeniably big and powerful at 16.5% alcohol. 84 pranillo (Rioja); $10. Fairly light and Drink soon, and with food. Otherwise it might leathery, with strained aromas of animal hide and Bodega Carmen Rodríguez 2005 seem too hot and burning. Imported by Fine burnt berry fruit. The palate feel is light to 84 Carodorum Tinta de Toro Crianza Estates From Spain. —M.S. medium, with scratchiness, and the flavors are of (Toro); $35. Opens with vinaigrette and bal- roasted fruit, leather and dryness. Spice and a samic notes along with leather and black fruit aro- Alto Moncayo 2007 Veraton Gar- slight bitterness define the finish. Has a few mas. The palate is soft and muddled, with soupy, 91 nacha (Campo de Borja); $28. issues but still a good wine for $10. Imported by stewy flavors and a jagged, candied finish. Seems Smoky, roasted and spicy on the nose, with berry Pernod Ricard. —M.S. to struggle for balance, which is a common flaw fruit, licorice and black pepper scents. Definitely in many Toro wines. Imported by The Artisan a warm, ripe, chunky wine with smooth black- Dinastía Vivanco 2007 Crianza Collection. —M.S. berry, chocolate and mocha flavors. Big and with 84 Tempranillo (Rioja); $18. Aromas of plenty of oak, but the integration and overall bal- chocolate mint, creamy vanilla and candy reflect a Bodegas Farina 2004 Gran Dama ance are commendable. Best now through 2012. heavy-handed oak treatment, and a sweet burnt 84 de Toro Tempranillo (Toro); $45. Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S.

WineMag.com | 143 BUYING I GUIDE

Borsao 2008 Tres Picos Garnacha Borsao 2009 Viña Borgia but there’s also some mild cleanser and paint 90 (Campo de Borja); $17. Tres Picos, 87 Grenache (Campo de Borja); $6. A scents to the nose. The palate is basic, snappy, or Three Peaks, ranks as a go-to wine for fans of steal for six bucks; the nose is floral and black, fresh and carries good weight, while the flavors round, smooth, slightly oaky reds. The bouquet is but under control. Meanwhile, the palate is are sweet, berry-oriented and softened by vanilla. all mocha and smoky/oaky richness, while the bouncy, round and balanced, with juicy black A good Grenache with good balance. Imported sticky, rich palate deals blackberry and chewy, plum and wild berry flavors. Clean and solid. by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. rooty medicinality. Oaky and spicy late, with Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. licorice and warmth. The best thing is that it’s not —M.S. Bodegas y Vinedos de Jalón 2008 Viña Alarba Old Vines Grenache heavy or overextracted despite being youthful and 86 Borsao 2009 Monte Oton Gar- (Calatayud); $10. modern in style. Imported by Fine Estates From The opening of smoke, rub- nacha (Campo de Borja); $7. Here’s ber and black cherry comes across as being dark Spain. —M.S. 86 another good value red from Borsao. It’s about as and good. The palate holds form with lively Pagos del Moncayo 2008 Gar- potent and packed a wine as you’ll find for $7, cherry, plum and currant flavors and finally a and while it’s jumpy, young and aggressive, it’s medium-long, somewhat warm and meaty finish. nacha (Campo de Borja); $30. 90 also full of jammy black fruit, sticky extraction Good for an everyday, no-frills Garnacha. Immediately this wine stands out from most and firm tannins. A classic mouthfiller with Imported by The Artisan Collection. Best Buy. Aragón-region Garnachas. It’s deep and poised, spunk, color and heft. Imported by Fine Estates —M.S. with smoky blackberry aromas. The palate is From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. deftly woven, saturated and meaty but also Bodegas y Vinedos de Jalón 2008 creamy and smooth, with mocha and controlled Pagos del Moncayo 2008 Tinto 85 Los Pinos Old Vines Grenache tannins. Freshness is not lost despite its modern, 86 Joven Garnacha-Syrah (Campo de (Calatayud); $13. Clean, fruity and snappy, clean power. Drink now through 2013. Imported Borja); $17. Piercing to start, with leathery, with pointed red fruit aromas and flavors as well by Axial Wines USA. —M.S. bacony and campfire aromas. Saturated, although as higher than normal acidity. Tastes fresh and healthy, if a bit hard and tannic. Flavors of bacon forward and entirely straightforward, with a hol- Borsao 2007 Crianza Selección and clove are right up there with black fruit and low but easy finish and mild but controlled sharp- 89 (Campo de Borja); $16. This is a syupy richness, and clove carries onto the finish. ness. Imported by The Artisan Collection. —M.S. really good example of a blended wine from Needs time to breathe and unfold; 65% Garnacha Aragón. It’s 50% Garnacha with 25% each Tem- and 35% Syrah. Imported by Axial Wines USA. Cruz de Piedra 2007 Capricho Gar- pranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon, and thus it is —M.S. 85 nacha (Calatayud); $20. Aromas of more complex and interesting than your run-of- pine, rubber and rhubarb are austere, and so is the-mill varietal Grenache. Mellow aromas of ripe Coto de Hayas 2008 Tinto (Campo the rest of the wine. The palate is run by acidity, fruit and spice open things up, followed by bal- 84 de Borja); $8. Simple at best early on, which is sharp and scouring. Flavors are tart and anced flavors of berry fruits, vanilla and cream. with leathery, rustic aromas and a truly basic set underdone, with pie cherry and red raspberry. Easygoing and highly recommended for the price. of flavors. Should you allow it to breathe, it Sheering but admittedly cleansing, with surprising Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. rounds into a good (but still basic), semisoft and sourness. Imported by Axial Wines USA. —M.S. fruity red with solid cherry/berry flavors and Quo 2008 Old Vines Grenache nothing offputting. Imported by Scoperta Garnacha de Fuego 2009 Gar- nacha (Calatayud); $8. 88 (Campo de Borja); $15. Deep and Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. 84 Neon purple in color, young and jumpy, but hey, that’s what earthy smelling, with meatiness, black fruit and simple Garnacha from this part of Spain is all hickory notes to the bouquet. The wine offers CALATAYUD about. Expect fruity, jammy aromas and a blazing, concentration and thickness, with ripe, slightly full-fruited palate of rubber, black fruits and medicinal flavors of plum and blackberry. The Bodegas Ateca 2007 Atteca Armas bacon. It’s grapey but honest, and for the price it’s same goes for the finish, and overall this is a Old Vines Garnacha (Calatayud); as expected. Imported by Fine Estates From medium-to-full Grenache that gets it done. 92 $45. Potent, deep and lush, with minty aromas Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. Imported by The Artisan Collection. —M.S. and a lot more wild berry and tobacco than any- thing crisp or piquant. The palate is lush and Almira 2009 Los Dos Old Vines packed full of ripe berry and black plum, while PENEDÈS 87 Grenache-Syrah (Campo de Borja); the finish is spirited, ripe, full and lusty. A rich, $8. Like most base-level Garnachas, this one has dark style of wine for modern palates. Ready now Torres 2006 Reserva Real a sweet, candied aromatic cover. But unlike many and over the next two years. Imported by Fine 94 (Penedès); $160. A beauty of a wine, it has depth, purity and avoids boring, offensive Estates From Spain. —M.S. with black plum, berry, cocoa, sandalwood and sweetness. The flavors of raspberry and boysen- moss on the nose. The palate is huge but per- berry are bright, and it maintains balance and Bodegas Ateca 2008 Atteca Old fectly balanced, with flavors of tobacco, black- integrity through the finish. A nice wine for under 87 Vines Garnacha (Calatayud); $16. berry and cassis. The blend is straight from $10. Imported by Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. Minty black cherry aromas give it a solid opening, Bordeaux (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc and

144 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 Merlot), but everything else screams Spain. Pure, tobacco. The palate is fresh but a touch spiky and Gonzalez Byass 2006 Finca Mon- long, smooth and easy in terms of tannic bite, grabby, with herbal plum and berry flavors. Solid 87 cloa Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah with good aging potential. Drink 2012–2020. mouthfeel and length make it worthwhile even if (Vino de la Tierra de Cádiz); $35. A bit Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Editors’ it’s herbal and slightly green tasting. Imported by earthy and leafy on the nose and palate, with Choice. —M.S. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. lightweight strawberry and raspberry aromas and flavors. The wine has a clacky, almost metallic feel Torres 2006 Mas La Plana Caber- to it along with hints of tobacco and green bean. 93 net Sauvignon (Penedès); $63. OTHER SPANISH REDS Vanilla and sweetness push the finish, which is Mocha, toasty smoke and pure berry aromas ring also slightly green. Hails from Cádiz in south- the bell, and the palate follows with fine balance Cellers Sant Rafel 2007 Solpost western Spain. Imported by San Francisco Wine and flavors of vanilla-infused raspberry, plum and 90 Fresc (Montsant); $19. An impressive Exchange. —M.S. cassis. A little rich and creamy now but still struc- Montsant blend of Grenache, Cabernet and tured and ageable for another 10 years. A seri- Syrah with a purple color and friendly black fruit Agricola Falset-Marca 2007 Ètim ously good Spanish Cabernet with world-class aromas. Not overly complex but deeply drawn Old Vines Grenache (Montsant); character. Best from 2013–2018. Imported by 86 and balanced. The plum, fresh raisin and black- $27. More basic and strained than prior wines Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Cellar Selection. —M.S. berry flavors are smooth and structured, and from this producer. The nose is rubbery and Torres 2007 Mas La Plana Caber- overall flavor and liveliness are key attributes. cheesy at first, with leather and blackberry. Hard, Drink now through 2012. Imported by Parador 92 net Sauvignon (Penedès); $63. An tannic and acidic as well, and only a little softer opening salvo of coffee, tobacco and pure berry Selections, LLC. —M.S. with airing. Flavors are of snappy, tough cherry fruit give this Cabernet a fine lift-off. The palate and berry, and the finish shows tannic bite. Could Gonzalez Byass 2005 Finca Mon- exhibits freshness and full-bodied power, while improve some with aging; now it’s a tough go. the flavors run toward deep black fruits, tobacco, 89 cloa Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah Imported by North American Beverage Group. herbs, vanilla and cocoa. Long and rich as well on (Vino de la Tierra de Cádiz); $35. Concen- —M.S. the finish. Best to set this aside for at least four trated and solid, but not a wrecking ball. The years before revisiting, but drinkable now with nose offers tobacco and earthy aromas, while the Finca Antigua 2007 Garnacha (La decanting. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. palate is jammy and smooth, with sweet flavors of 86 Mancha); $12. Kicks off with minty Cellar Selection. —M.S. blackberry, fig and tobacco. Spicy enough and coconut aromas and prune, then a hint of creamy pretty long on the finish, with another wave of green. The palate shows proper acidity and tan- tobacco. Almost too ripe but not quite. 70% nin balance, so the framing for the wine’s rasp- NAVARRA Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Syrah, as is the 87- berry flavors is good. Grabby but fresh on the point 2006 vintage. Imported by San Francisco finish, with just enough grapey richness. Dominio Lasierpe 2007 Flor de Wine Exchange. —M.S. Imported by MJM Imports. —M.S. 85 Lasierpe Viñas Viejas Garnacha (Navarra); $22. For a higher-priced wine, this Viñas del Vero 2007 La Miranda Bodegas Tempore 2005 Viña Cen- has some issues. The nose is heavy and murky, 88 de Secastilla Garnacha (Somon- 85 turia Garnacha (Vino de la Tierra with leathery, baked aromas. In the mouth, it’s tano); $15. Sweet and full of raspberry aromas, del Bajo Aragón); $17. Rusty in hue, with somewhat choppy and acidic, thus punctuating foresty scents and sandalwood. Overall it’s a well- mature, slightly old aromas of leather, gym bag, the cherry tomato portion of the earth-and- made, intriguing Grenache with a fleshy, sturdy dried leaves and mature berry. The palate has leather flavor profile. Lingering oak accents the body and deep cherry, berry and chocolate fla- depth and concentration, while the flavors are finish, which is zesty and leans toward sour. vors. It’s a bit tannic, but that only helps the struc- herbal and run toward baked black cherry and Imported by Weisler Imports, LLC. —M.S. ture. Finishes nicely, with dry spice and vanilla tobacco. Caramel and mature fruit flavors vie for Bodegas la Casa de Lúcolo 2008 notes. Imported by San Francisco Wine control of the roasted finish. Imported by RV 84 Jardín de Lúcolo Garnacha Exchange. —M.S. Distributors. —M.S. (Navarra); $20. Begins with pasty, lactic aro- Volver 2008 Tempranillo (La Man- Grandes Vinos y Viñedos 2005 mas and heavy fruit. The palate is both big and cha); $16. Corona d’Aragón Reserva (Car- clumsy, with sharp acidity amid bulk leading to 88 Dark as night and thick, with 85 choppy plum and medicinal cherry flavors. A heavy, modern aromas of shoe polish, bacon and iñena); $18. Quite an oaky wine, with aromas of clacky wine with power but not much finesse. ripe, roasted black fruits. The feel is concen- BBQ, hickory, roasted plum and spice. The body Imported by Axial Wines USA. —M.S. trated and healthy, while the flavors run very ripe is full but scratchy, with additional oak manifest- and dark, with plenty of oak thrown in. Finishes ing itself in the form of baked, rooty, vanilla fla- Castillo de Monjardin 2008 La rich, with bacon, resin, black pepper and some vors that override the wine’s simple but quiet fruit 84 Cantera Garnacha (Navarra); $8. burn. Seems more jacked up than its listed content. Finishes dark and toasty, with coffee, Starts with tough, almost harsh green aromas on 14.5% alcohol. Imported by Fine Estates From mocha and vanilla flavors. Imported by Great the nose, but with time it settles on herbs and Spain. —M.S. Wines & Vineyards. —M.S.

WineMag.com | 145 BUYING I GUIDE

Spartico NV Organic Wine Tem- olive-influenced plum, berry and cola flavors. youth is wasted on the young in this case. Gar- 85 pranillo (Utiel-Requena); $12. A From down south in Spain, it shows pretty good nacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and the indige- clean, nice, regular Tempranillo with normal body and an okay mouthfeel, but the flavor pro- nous Parraleta. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. black cherry and berry aromas that offer hints of file is a litte funky and strange. Imported by rubber and bacon. The palate is tannic and Winebow. —M.S. grabby but balanced for the most part, with pure, SPAIN basic blackberry and cherry flavors. Modest in its Finca Milena 2009 Tempranillo scope, but fresh and untainted. Imported by Nat- 83 (Utiel-Requena); $7. Strawberry and WHITE WINES ural Merchants LLC. —M.S. raspberry aromas come on with aggression, and the bouquet doesn’t really evolve. The palate is RÍAS BAIXAS Alvear 2006 Palacio Quemado Cri- crisp, snappy and high in acid, with grating red 84 anza Tempranillo (Ribera del Gua- cherry and red plum flavors. Decent red fruit Dom Bardo 2008 Albariño (Rías diana); $15. Palacio Quemado, which means character throughout but not much feel or depth. 89 Baixas); $16. Delicious and ready to the Burnt Palace, is a funky wine from Imported by Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —M.S. drink. The nose brims with lemon peel, mineral- Extremadura that mixes forceful floral aromas ity, saline and natural vanilla. In the mouth, it’s with barnyard and grape juice scents. It’s a fuller- Legado Muñoz 2009 Tempranillo healthy and ready to go, with citrusy lead flavors bodied, grabby wine with chunky, medicinal fla- 83 (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla); $10. along with requisite green apple. Still fresh and vors and a finish that meanders before settling on Jammy aromas mix with grassy green notes in crisp despite having been released a year ago. A big and herbal. Has its good points and weak- front of a sweet, chunky palate that offers uncon- wine to enjoy immediately. Imported by Fine nesses. Imported by Parador Selections, LLC. — vincing, generic berry flavors. Devoid of elegance Estates From Spain. —M.S. M.S. and character but loaded with heft and baked fruit. A sweet, rudimentary wine. Imported by Terras Gauda 2009 Abadia de San Ermita San Antonio 2009 Tem- The Artisan Collection. —M.S. 89 Campio Albariño (Rías Baixas); 84 pranillo (Vino de la Tierra de $20. Lemon, apple blossom and honey aromas Castilla); $8. Slightly vinegary on the cherry- Bodegas Iranzo 2009 Vertus Tem- make for a correct, attractive bouquet. Mean- laden nose, with a mild but persistent briney 82 pranillo (Utiel-Requena); $10. while, the palate is typically crisp and vibrant, character. The palate is high in acid, leading to Jammy and flat smelling, with little to no depth to with cutting acids that push the pineapple and some scour, but the flavors of plum and berry, the nose. The palate is snappy but there’s just citrus flavors to a point. Long and exact on the while generic, are pretty good. Finishes with hints enough body to offset the acidity, while the fla- finish, and overall there’s not an ounce of flab to of toast, pepper and spice. Solid enough for $8. vors of red fruits are tart and regular. Dull tasting, this streamlined white. Imported by Aveniu Imported by Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best with a fairly long finish that’s unexciting. Brands, Inc. —M.S. Buy. —M.S. Imported by Natural Merchants LLC. —M.S. La Cana 2009 Albariño (Rías Venta Morales 2009 Tempranillo Montgó 2009 Picos del Montgó 88 Baixas); $16. Smooth, fresh aromas 84 (La Mancha); $7. Jammy, dark and 82 Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de suggest apple blossoms and sea air. The palate reduced, with breadth along with leather and Castilla); $9. Hard, pickled aromas settle on offers a proper zesty mouthfeel, zingy acidity, nat- compost aromas. The palate is leathery, funky and leathery and burnt after airing. The palate is ural creaminess and nice flavors of green apple, medicinal, with viscosity and creamy berry fla- jammy and sticky, with sweet, heavy, roasted, sour melon and pineapple. At the end, lemony vors. Has richness and body but the flavors and burnt-tasting black fruit flavors. Resiny as well. zap and lemongrass grace the finish. Imported by congruety are sketchy until you remember that it Tempranillo with 10% Syrah. Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. costs but $7. Imported by Fine Estates From Regency Wine Group. —M.S. Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. Don Olegario 2009 Albariño (Rías Bodegas y Vinos de Lécera NV 87 Baixas); $22. Pungent and sweaty Bodegas Farina 2009 Peromato 82 Esenzia Garnacha (Vino de la smelling on first blush, almost suggesting Verdejo 83 Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Tierra del Bajo Aragón); $9. A green, strug- or Sauvignon Blanc. It remains oily and nettled Castilla y León); $9. Sweet, plummy and unre- gling wine from front to back. The nose kicks up on the nose, with sharpness. Sooner rather than fined on both the nose and palate. This is nothing underripe aromas to go with distant red fruit, later it softens, unveiling flavors of green melon, more than simple juice that isn’t terrible. It’s while the palate is edgy and prickly, with high passionfruit and citrus. And the finish goes out grapey, sweet and tart, with an edgy bit of tang to acidity creating snappy cherry and green flavors. with snap, orange and grapefruit. Potent for the the finish. Regular at best; subpar if you’re being Imported by RV Distributors. —M.S. variety. Imported by Kobrand. —M.S. critical. Imported by Specialty Cellars. —M.S. Bodegas Pirineos 2008 Mesache Pazo de Barrantes 2008 Pazo Bar- Bodegas Piqueras 2008 Castillo de 81 (Somontano); $11. Jammy smelling 86 rantes Albariño (Rías Baixas); $19. 83 Almansa Tintorera Garnacha but also lean and minty. The palate is almost sour, Husky on the nose but mostly it comes across as (Almansa); $10. Mint, carob and green-tinged a bit better later on, but never does it rise above wild, with jumpy, loud pear, melon and apple aro- fruit aromas precede an herbal-tasting palate with tight, lean and tart. Mesache means youthful but mas. The mouth is spunky and all over the map,

146 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 while flavors of tangy yellow fruits carry an acidic, overall it’s a round, stout, creamy wine with apple, finish is easy and clean. A welcome entry into the herbal twinge and even a grassy quality. Lacks vanilla and toasty, resiny flavors and finishing land of Rueda and its Verdejo. Imported by Vinos perfect poise but it can’t be called timid or dull. notes. A little heavy and sticky but nice for barrel- Libres. Best Buy. —M.S. Imported by Maisons Marques & Domaines aged white Rioja. Imported by Fine Estates USA. —M.S. From Spain. —M.S. SPAIN RIOJA RUEDA SPARKLING Finca Allende 2007 Allende Shaya 2008 Habis Old Vines WINES 89 (Rioja); $36. Yellowing to the eye, with 91 Verdejo (Rueda); $30. Butter, toast waxy vanilla aromas along with toasty lemon and and resiny aromas tell you immediately that it’s CAVA apple scents. For an ’07 it’s hanging in well even if barrel fermented, but unlike some of the compe- it’s creamy and rich, with banana and lemon tition, this wine manages to hold onto its core of Albet I Noya NV Petit Albet Brut cream pie flavors. Best to drink now; 70% Viura green apple, white peach and pear without letting 89 (Cava); $19. Toasty right away, with and 30% Malvasia. Imported by Fine Estates the oak interfere. Excellent with food, and it lightly baked apple aromas. The palate has a fine From Spain. —M.S. improves rapidly with each ten-minute interval. A feel and good overall intensity, while the flavors of great example of oak-aged Verdejo. Drink now. lemon, white grapefruit and apple are subtle and Muga 2009 Barrel Fermented Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. clean. Long and persistent, and showing quite a 89 (Rioja); $16. Clean lines and fresh, oak- bit for a standard nonvintage Cava. Imported by tinged aromas is what this Viura (with 10% Mal- José Pariente 2009 Verdejo Opici Import Company. —M.S. vasia) is all about. The nose starts with lemon, 90 (Rueda); $23. Fresh, perky, sweaty and green apple and a spot of vanilla, while the juicy citric on the nose, which all creates a textbook Marques de Gelida 2007 Brut palate brings bright white fruits, toasty oak and bouquet. The palate is slightly spritzy, with fla- 89 Reserva Made with Organic smoke. Not overly complex but not rudimentary vors of passionfruit, pineapple and sweet white Grapes (Cava); $18. A toasty, yeasty, organic - or dull. A nice food wine and probably the best grapefruit. Fresh yet a little fleshy, with a long, grape Cava with butterscotch, vanilla and baked barrel-fermented white from Muga we’ve tried. zesty finish. Drink as soon as possible to capture fruit aromas. The palate has good balance, while Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. the essence of a fine vintage. Imported by Grapes the flavors are citric but not sour, with pineapple of Spain. —M.S. and orange leading the fight. Clean and not com- Finca Nueva 2008 Viura (Rioja); plicated, but more elegant than the average Span- 88 $15. From Miguel Angel de Gregorio of Shaya 2009 Old Vines Verdejo ish sparkler. Imported by Fine Estates From Finca Allende, this is a nice, thorough, creamy 90 (Rueda); $15. As far as value-priced Spain. —M.S. white with aromas of white fruits, vanilla and Ruedas go, this is at the top of the heap. The nose straw. The palate has spiced peach, apple and is forward, clean as glass and not too pungent or Juvé y Camps 2006 Brut Reserva pear flavors, and the finish is exceedingly creamy demanding. Solid as can be across the tongue, 88 (Cava); $13. Snappy and a little green and deep. Shows elegance and adequate power, with green fruit flavors that shine and don’t force on the nose, with hints of juniper and green but needs to be drunk soon. Imported by Fine the issue. Crystalline and pure from start to fin- apple. The palate is perfectly good but nothing Estates From Spain. —M.S. ish. Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. Best special, while the flavors of apple and citrus are Buy. —M.S. punchy and pure. Frothy but controlled, with lots Marqués de Murrieta 2005 Capel- of flavor and forward kick. Apéritif city! Imported 88 lanía (Rioja); $26. For those who like Cuatro Rayas 2009 Viñedos Cen- by Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. an old-school, oxidized style of white Rioja (think 89 tenarios Verdejo (Rueda); $18. López de Heredia), Murrieta’s Capellanía is up Pungent, grassy and ultrafresh, with citric aromas Marques de Gelida 2007 Brut your alley. The nose is almost like Sherry in its and textbook scents of wild grass, nettles and pas- 88 Reserva Pinot Noir (Cava); $16. creamy, maderized state, while the palate is low sionfruit. The palate is similar, with passionfruit, Floral lilac and plum aromas greet you, followed in power, with coconut and lemon flavors. Fin- green melon and citrus front and center. The feel by a chunky, frothy palate with crisp core acidity ishes soft, with vanilla. A unique, identifiable is wet and flashy, and overall this is a very nice and toasty flavors of baked cherry and caramel. white wine that’s not for everyone. Drink now. wine to match with salads, fish and the like. Finishes smooth and long, with peppery notes Imported by Maisons Marques & Domaines Imported by The Artisan Collection. —M.S. and dryness. Imported by Fine Estates From USA. —M.S. Spain. —M.S. Emina 2009 Verdejo (Rueda); $11. Sierra Cantabria 2008 Organza 88 Crisp, clean and nice on the nose, with a Vilarnau NV Brut (Cava); $15. If 88 (Rioja); $29. Broad, bold and buttery, hint of white pepper. The palate is round and not 88 someone says Vilarnau brut, you should with aromas of toasted white peach, flower blos- overly acidic, making it friendly and endowed say, yes, I’d love a glass. This bubbly will win you som, vanilla and mild oxidation. The blend is 65% with mass appeal. Flavors of green melon and cit- over with its dense but controlled palate and fla- Viura with Malvasia and white Garnacha, and rus are smooth and not too demanding, while the vors of orange and sweet, ripe grapefruit. It has a

WineMag.com | 147 BUYING I GUIDE bit of green to it and it draws back nicely on the Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. tongue without overfizzing. Imported by San —M.S. Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. Marqués de Cáceres 2009 Rosé Juvé y Camps NV Brut Rosé Pinot 87 (Rioja); $9. Crisp, natural and lightly 87 Noir (Cava); $18. A little gritty and salinic on the nose, with medium weight, good tough on the nose, with hard strawberry and freshness and solid peach and citrus flavors. This kirsch aromas. The palate is voluminous and is a standard but nicely done Rioja rosé with a foamy, with flavors of burnt blood orange and pithy finish and just the right edge to it. Drink grilled pink grapefruit. Yes, there’s a hard, burnt liberally with appetizers and you shouldn’t go element to the wine, but this being Pinot Noir wrong. Imported by Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. from Penedès that’s to be expected. Imported by —M.S. Winebow. —M.S. Muga 2009 Rosé (Rioja); $12. Very Mistinguett NV Brut (Cava); $14. 86 light in body, color and aromas. The nose 86 Soda pop-like on the nose, with a clear is punchy and a bit sharp, and so is the palate, reference to Sprite and 7Up. The palate is some- which offers crisp, bracing acids to highlight what candied and simple, but it has good feel and zesty, lean nectarine and tangerine flavors. Quite the flavors of lemon-lime are likable. Mild on the linear and citric, but experience with this wine finish, with flavors that extend from the lemon- says it shows best with food. Imported by Fine lime bouquet and palate. Imported by Ecosur Estates From Spain. —M.S. Group, LLC. —M.S. Iranzo Fields 2009 Bobal Rosé Marques de Gelida 2006 Brut 85 (Utiel-Requena); $6. Almost red in 85 Exclusive Reserva (Cava); $15. color, with dusty aromas that mix in a blast of Dusty and with nice apple and spice aromas. The latex and dried cherry notes. The wine is made palate, however, is quite flat and devoid of a lively from organically grown Bobal grapes, and it offers bubble bead. Flavors of pear and melon run sweet, tang and bite along with crisp flavors of plum while the finish is dull and lacks effervesence. skins, raspberry and citrus. Almost sour, but not. Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. A solid quaffer for the price. Imported by Lati- tude Wines, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.

SPAIN Bodegas Valdemar 2009 Conde de 84 Valdemar Rosado (Rioja); $9. Neon ROSÉ WINES pink in color, with heavier aromas that split time between chemical and candied. The palate is a ROSADOS bit awkward and heavy, with jumbled flavors of pomegranate juice, cherry and strawberry. Loses Bodegas Nekeas 2009 Vega Sin- focus as it moves along, and finishes with a 87 doa Rosé (Navarra); $8. Reddish in slightly bitter aftertaste. Imported by CIV/USA. color, with solid aromas of tire rubber, cherry and —M.S. plum. The palate shows fine lift and balance, and the flavors of juicy, slightly pithy and bitter rasp- berry and plum are just right for Navarran Gar- nacha-based rosé. Drink soon with salads and finger foods. Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S.

Dominio de Eguren 2009 Proto- 87 colo Rosé (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla); $7. Pink meets orange in terms of hue, while the nose gives a nice blend of sweet and snappy berry and citrus. The palate has a lit- tle weight and heft along with dry, white-peppery flavors of nectarine and apricot. Pithy, citrusy and healthy throughout. Good wine for the money.

148 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 Spirits SKYY Infusions Citrus (Skyy Spir- 91 its, San Francisco, CA, U.S.) 35% abv, $19. Bright, lemon-lime soda aromas, a CITRUS VODKAS touch ersatz. The pleasant flavor is reminiscent of arrowing the scope of this month’s of delicate peels or slightly bitter pith; others sweet lemonade, finishing with a surprising herbal vodka reviews was a challenge. clearly echoed the bigger, juicier flavors of the note. It braced up further over ice. These days, vodka is distilled from fruit itself. N not just potatoes and grain, but also In the end, two very different citrus vodkas Finlandia Lime Fusion (Altia Corp., materials such as grapes, maple stood out. The first was Absolut Citron, a Swedish 90 Helskinki, Finland); 37.5% abv, sugar, even milk. It’s made just about anywhere, vodka with a crisp, classic profile and a lingering $19. Despite a faint lime-lollipop scent, the flavor and it comes in a dizzying spectrum of flavors. lemon finish. The second was a fragrant, full-fla- of this vodka tilted more toward lemon than lime, But citrus-flavored vodkas have become a staple vored Mandarin Blossom vodka made by Califor- with perhaps a touch of lime-leaf essence. The in the cocktail world, and so the compass needle nia artisan distiller Hangar One. subtle flavor and light feel would make for a pol- settled there. Which brings me right back to the incredible ished, high-end cocktail. Discovering the wide range of citrus flavors was diversity in vodkas now: one is made by a global a particular delight of this tasting. The spectrum conglomerate perhaps best known for its cool, Smirnoff Twist of Orange tilted from light and fresh to deep and ripe. I felt iconic advertising campaign, and the other is made 90 (Smirnoff Co./Diageo, Norwalk, like I’d been handed a virtual fruit bowl: the vod- by hand-picking 50 pounds of blossoms, just to CT, U.S.); 35% abv, $17. True fruit fragrance kas reflected not just orange or lemon, but Man- perfume a single bottle, clearly a passionate of orange peel oils, tangerine and a touch of darin orange, Clementine, blood orange and endeavor. Two very different approaches and lemon. Restrained and light on the palate, with tangerine; Meyer lemon and citron and Buddha’s- products, and both are very much worth a try. If most of the orange on the lingering finish. hand citrus. (I ran to a grocer to scoop up exotic that’s not enough to make you want to celebrate, fruit so I could learn to tell apart the real-life inspi- how about this: October 4 is National Vodka Day. Orange V (Dynamic Beverages, rations.) Some flavorings were more reminiscent —Kara Newman 89 Westport, CT, U.S.); 38% abv, $26. Crystal clear appearance, despite the striking orange bottle, and slightly viscous body. Nothing Absolut Citron (Absolut Spirits, Van Gogh Oranje (Van Gogh subtle here: get ready for big, sweet, Orange Ahus, Sweden); 40% abv, Vodka, Dirkzwager Distilleries, 98 92 Crush aromas mirrored by sweet, absolutely huge $24/1000 ml. Features a bright, pleasantly Schiedam, Holland); 40% abv, $27. The orange flavors. While it was too sweet neat, almost familiar orange-lemon lollipop scent and fresh, sweet, high but slightly orange-soda ersatz scent like a liqueur, it gained more bite and structure clean and brisk flavors, with most of the lemon in accurately reflects the equally sweet and intensely over ice, and finished with a touch of lemon/cit- the finish. Balanced, with the right amount of orange taste of this vodka. Because it finishes ron. Very sippable. alcohol bite. A sure classic for vodka tonics. smooth, with rounded orange and tangerine notes and a Cognac-like, warming touch of honey, it’s Finlandia Tangerine Fusion (Altia Hangar One Mandarin Blossom addictively sippable. (Hangar One Distillers, Alameda, 88 Corp., Helskinki, Finland); 37.5% 97 abv, $19. CA, U.S.); 40% abv, $35. The deep, sweet TRU Organic Lemon (TRU Organic The flavors are more reminiscent of orange and honeyed-floral fragrance is the first 91 Spirits, Los Angeles, CA, U.S.); pear than orange, and lead to a mouthwatering signal this vodka will be special. The flavors are 35% abv, $37. Eco-advocates will love that the finish, with just the right amount of bite to balance clean and brisk, followed by a strong bite and packaging is carbon-negative. But how’s the liquid it out. Juicy, almost too overripe tangerine scent. honey and tangerine notes. It finishes sweet, with inside? Subtle and lovely. It’s one of the few vod- faint floral and vanilla notes coaxed out over ice. kas with a hint of pale yellow tint, as well as a Stolichnaya Citros (S.P.I. Group, slightly viscous body. The scent is light, natural, 87 Russia); 35% abv, $25. The fragrance Belvedere Orange (Polmos Zyrar- and lemon zest-y. The flavors also are on the sub- is sweet and like lemonade. Initially neutral flavor 92 dow, Poland); 40% abv, $40. Pleas- tle side, hinting at orange blossom, and tapering to gives over to alcohol bite, and then a powerful, antly aromatic, with punchy orange blossom and lemon peel on the finish. This vodka would blend lingering bitter lemon finish. Probably would be lime candy notes. An initially neutral flavor gives particularly well into sour-based cocktails. good in a lemon drop, or cocktail that adds some way to a touch of sweetness. It finishes smooth, sweetness to balance out the bite. with a lingering hint of orange. Absolut Mandarin (Absolut Spirits, 91 Ahus, Sweden); 40% abv, Belvedere Citrus (Polmos Zyrardow, Finlandia Grapefruit Fusion (Altia $24/1000 ml. Luscious and perfumy, with 87 Poland); 40% abv, $40. High, sugary, 92 Corp., Helskinki, Finland); 37.5% Christmas clementine and vanilla aromas. How- slightly floral scent reminiscent of gumdrops or abv, $19. Opens with a fruity, slightly overripe ever, there’s far more orange on the nose than on lemon-lime soda. Although this vodka starts with a aroma, very close to true grapefruit. The flavors of the palate: a big alcohol bite comes first, followed neutral flavor and faint lemon-lime finish on the pomelo and lychee are more dry than sweet, fin- by neutral flavor with just a suggestion of orange, tongue, it’s quickly overwhelmed by wallop of ishing with a touch of anise and moderate bite. and a floral finish. alcohol bite and a touch of bitterness.

WineMag.com | 149 BUYING I GUIDE THE WINE ENTHUSIAST Smirnoff Twist of Citrus (Smirnoff SPIRITS 82 Co./Diageo, Norwalk, CT); 35% BUYING GUIDE abv, $17. The high, floral aroma reads a bit sug- ary and soapy. Flavors tease out lemon-vanilla The Spirits Buying Guide is a summary of recent notes, with touches of light honeysuckle. Over ice detailed evaluations and product ratings of a single the botanical and white tea notes become more reviewer, Spirits Reviewer Kara Newman. Every tasting pronounced. Light to medium body. note is accompanied by a rating. Also noted are the full name of the product, its alcoholic strength expressed as percent alcohol by volume, the producer’s name, and the suggested U.S. retail price. If the price cannot be CORRECTIONS confirmed, an $NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottle unless otherwise indicated. In the September issue Spirits Buying Guide, TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS three of the names of the reviewed Bourbons were Tastings are conducted individually in a controlled tast- presented incorrectly. The full, correct reviews are ing environment. Spirits are tasted alone; no formal below. reviews are ever conducted in the presence of any pro- ducer or industry representative. Samples are tasted blind in flights of no more than six to eight products. Elijah Craig 12-Year-Old Kentucky Price is not a factor in the evaluation. 95 Straight Bourbon Whiskey (Heaven Hill Distilleries, Louisville, KY, ABOUT THE SCORES U.S.); 47% abv, $29. Deep color, medium-to- Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accom- heavy feel. Strong, sweet fragrance with wood and panying tasting note to learn about each spirit’s special characteristics. The numerical ratings correspond to spice tones. Butterscotch candy flavors, so strong I quality in the following manner: almost hear cellophane unwrapping, are echoed by some oak, caramel and vanilla. Smooth, not too Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. much alcohol fire. Mellow, long finish with a touch Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. of herbal and anise notes. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Parker’s Heritage Collection Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- 95 Golden Anniversary Bourbon critical circumstances. (Heaven Hill Distilleries, Louisville, KY, Spirits receiving a rating below 80 are not reviewed. U.S.); 50% abv, $150. Extremely well bal- anced—it’s complex but no single element stands Certain spirits are designated as Best Buys. Spirits earn- ing this designation offer a high level of quality in rela- out. Flavors are of caramel, burnt orange peel, tion to price. There are no specific guidelines or toastiness and oak. Medium body, silky and long formulae for determining Best Buys. finish, with the right amount of bite, lingering aniseed note. Highly versatile. SUBMITTING SPIRITS FOR REVIEW Spirits should be submitted to the following reviewing Maker’s 46 Kentucky Bourbon location: Kara Newman c/o 36 West 20th St, 3rd Floor, New York, NY, 10011. Inquiries should 94 Whiskey (Maker’s Mark Distillery, be addressed to Spirits Reviewer Kara Newman at Loretto, KY, U.S.) 47% abv, $35. The nose [email protected]. There is no charge for finds supersweet deep caramel candy and almond submitting spirits, and Wine Enthusiast will make every effort to sample all spirits submitted for review. extract, but don’t be fooled. On the tongue, it’s There is, however, no guarantee that all submissions will punch-in-the-nose dry and biting. Best served on be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All ice, which takes down the burn and lets the pro- submissions must be accompanied by a submission form, nounced woody flavors come through: lots of oak, which may be downloaded from our website. Please be sure to check the spirits tasting schedule prior to submit- strong tea and cigar tobacco. ting samples.

LABELS Labels are paid promotions. Producers and their representatives are given the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza by phone at 813.571.1122; by fax at 866.896.8786; or email [email protected].

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150 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 BUYING I GUIDE

Beer Light and thin but not watery; definitely a versa- tile, food-friendly brew.

LAST OF THE LAGERS Cable Car Small Batch Lager Beer ctober is one of those funny top-fermenting yeast while lagers are brewed with 86 (American Adjunct Lager; Cable months, when you can still remem- bottom-fermenting yeast. What exactly does that Car Brewing Co, NY); 4.8% abv, $7/6 ber summer’s blazing heat while mean for the beer? Lager yeast is inherently more pack. Light straw-colored in the glass. There’s a O fall warns you of the chilly days fragile than ale yeasts; it has a lower alcohol toler- slight metallic note in the bouquet alongside hints ahead. Some days it’s warm and ance and undergoes fermentation at a lower tem- of sweet malt. Clean and straightforward in the sunny, and perfect for that baseball outing or perature. The lower temperature leads to a slower, mouth with an overall light flavor profile, offering weekend barbecue, while others it’s cold and longer fermentation and storage period (hence the hints of citrus and more sweet grain flavors. Light windy and you’re forced to rake leaves from the name, from the German lagern, “to store”). The bodied and easy to drink with a clean finish; an yard or winterize the boat. For either occasion, result is fewer esters and aromas, greater clarity excellent session beer. Best Buy. and just about everything in between, the best way and a more full-bodied beer with a mellow palate to grin and make the most of it is to take a look in that’s crisper in character and less fruity than ale. R.J. King Wingwalker Lager the fridge and grab a refreshing lager. Given the wide range of lager styles available 85 (American Pale Lager; R.J. King Though they might be left over from your sum- today, there are plenty of options for every palate’s Wingwalker Brewing Co, NY); 4.5% abv, mer entertaining, lagers make excellent early fall preference, and the reviews for this month’s beer $7/6 pack. Pours a very light gold color with a transitional beers. Why a lager and not, say, an ale? buying guide illustrate that point for you. thick head that falls fast but leaves decent lacing. The main difference is that ales are brewed with Prost! —LAUREN BUZZEO The aromas are faint, with the slightest sugges- tions of sweet cereal malt and stone fruit. Crisp and refreshing in the mouth, with notes of apple Full Sail LTD Series Lager Recipe molasses, candied walnuts and raisin cake spice and soft citrus hops along with a touch of bitter- 89 No. 03 (German Pilsener; Full Sail throughout. Big and roasty in the mouth with ness on the end. Brisk and easy to drink. Brewing Co, OR); 5.6% abv, $8/6 pack. notes of coffee and roasted malts alongside the There’s a slight haze to this light gold-colored notes found in the bouquet. The finish is very long Tap Room No 21 Moe’s Backroom beer, with a solid malt backbone along with notes and tinged with hop oils and soft bitterness as well 84 Lager (American Pale Lager; Tap of floral and citrusy hops throughout. The carbon- as a bit of an alcoholic bite. A perfect fall brew, Room No 21 Brewing Co, NY); 4.8% abv; ation is fairly assertive and livens up the palate, strong but clean. $7/6 pack. Pale straw in color with a decent with softly bitter grassy hop notes dancing along- head that falls fast. Aromas of sweet biscuit malt, side toasty malt, orange rind and sweet spice fla- Full Sail Session Premium Lager soft citrus and a touch of metallic character unfold vors. Flavorful and a bit more complex than other 88 (American Pale Lager; Full Sail in the nose. The carbonation is lively and offerings of the same style. Snag what you find of Brewing Co, OR); 5.1% abv, $11/11 oz 12 assertive, and the flavors of Cheerios and husky this limited-edition brew while you can. pack. This brew comes in an adorable little grains lead through to the crisp, dry finish. stubby bottle, like Red Stripe, and it just makes Maui Brewing Co Bikini Blonde you want to love it. Light golden yellow color in THE WINE ENTHUSIAST 89 Lager (Munich Helles Lager; Maui the glass with beautiful lacing left behind after the BEER BUYING GUIDE Brewing Co, Hawaii); 4.5% abv, $9/6 pack head falls. Aromas of clean grass, softly toasted cans. The Beer Buying Guide is a summary of recent Pours a slightly cloudy pale yellow color grains and mild hop citrus fill the bouquet. Clean detailed evaluations and product ratings of a single with a significant head that leaves little lacing but and balanced on the palate, with nice fresh citrus reviewer, Assistant Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo. a nice ring. Aromas are medium-intense with lime notes countering the rich malt backbone. The car- Every tasting note is accompanied by a rating. Also rind citrus, soft spice and a touch of pineapple. bonation is mild but appropriate, allowing the noted are the full name of the product, beer style, alcoholic strength expressed as percent alcohol by The mouth is lightweight but very satisfying, with nuanced flavors to come through to the dry finish. volume, producer’s name, and the suggested/average strong but not overly assertive carbonation and a Flavorful and satisfying but easy to consume and U.S. retail price. If price cannot be confirmed, an $NA crisp maltiness. Not too grainy or bitter, with soft enjoy. Best Buy. (not available) will be printed. Prices are for the bottle size or packaging indicated. hoppy notes lingering on the finish. An easy-to- drink, very well-balanced lager. Bohemia Clásica (German Pilsner; ABOUT THE SCORES 87 Cerveceria Cuauhtemoc The numerical ratings correspond to quality in the Coney Island Human Blockhead Moctezuma, Mexico); 5.3% abv, $9/6 following manner: 88 Tough-as-Nails Lager (American pack. Pours a pale straw color with a small head Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Amber/Red Lager; Shmaltz Brewing Co, that falls fast. The aromas are faint but clean, with Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. NY); 10.0% abv, $5/22 oz. You can tell from notes of sweet grains, softly floral hops and a hint Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recom- the rich mahogany color and slight haze that this of yeast. The taste is clean and well balanced, with mended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; isn’t going to be your typical amber lager. The aro- nice earthy hops adding a touch of bitterness to often good value. mas are a little caramelized and heady, almost like the finish alongside the grainy malt backbone. A Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances. a Scotch ale, with strong caramel, dried figs, hint of sweet vanilla bean appears on the finish.

134 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010