Buying Guide Vineyards north of Hammondsport on the west side of Lake Keuka, New York. Special Advance Release Wines reviewed for the October 2010 issue, CEPHAS in home August 19 / FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS buyingguide.winemag.com PHOTO MICK ROCK BUYING GUIDE New York UPSTATE, WHERE RIESLING RULES ew York’s Finger Lakes have long her first round of tastings for Wine Enthusiast. been one of the world’s most promis- Expect more of her reviews, covering other parts ing growing regions for Riesling. of the United States and venturing into some N “Most promising,” because frankly European outposts, in upcoming issues. many of the wines haven’t lived up For red wine lovers, this month’s Buying Guide to global expectations for what seems such an obvi- also features some great Cabernet reviews com- Ghost Block 2007 Single Vineyard ous Riesling terroir. A cool, water-moderated cli- ing out of California. The 2007 vintage yielded Cabernet Sauvignon (Yountville); mate and hillside vineyards made Riesling seem a some stunners, including noteworthy efforts from 95 $100. A terrific Cabernet you want to cellar for a given. But for many years, the focus was on any- such stalwarts as Mondavi and Chappellet, but also good 5–6 years, at the very least, and could go far thing but Riesling—Chardonnay had a run, as did from newer wineries, like Ghost Block. California- longer. Shows what Yountville can do in a good Cabernet Franc; Pinot Noir has some proponents. based Contributing Editor Steve Heimoff was also year. The wine is very dry and more minerally than Finally, our latest tastings suggest that the region impressed by the quartet of single-vineyard Syrahs further north, yet is extraordinarily rich in black- as a whole is beginning to fulfill its vinous destiny from Novy Cellars. berries, chocolate-covered cherries and cassis, with as a producer of standout Riesling. Imports in this month’s collection include some a perfumed scent of violets. The mouthfeel is all The Finger Lakes have always had their share of great Grüner Veltliners from Austria, a bevy of velvet and satin—so pretty and refined. Cellar good Riesling producers—Wiemer, Frank, Heron Brunellos di Montalcino from the great 2004 and Selection. Hill, to name a few—but now there are dozens of 2005 vintages and additional selections from names to know, not just a handful. The original France, Spain and Australia. Finally, remember Robert Mon- pioneers have been joined by a host of newer ven- that you can access our collection of almost 90,000 davi 2007 tures, and the oldtimers have raised their games. wine reviews (plus Spirits and Beers) via our Web 95 Reserve Cabernet In this issue, Tasting Coordinator Anna Lee Iijima site: buyingguide.winemag.com. Cheers! Sauvignon (Napa spotlights some of the noteworthy Rieslings from —JOE CZERWINSKI Valley); $135. Bone dry and utterly balanced, of slate and lime, tart acidity and a pleasantly with deeply powerful, RIESLING long finish. Lovely all around. —A.I. long-lasting flavors of blackberries and black Belhurst 2009 Dry Riesling (Fin- Belhurst 2009 Semi-Dry Riesling currants and an intense, but integrated, coating of 89 ger Lakes); $19. There’s lots of zing 88 (Finger Lakes); $18. This aromatic smoky oak. But it’s also very tannic. Nothing soft in this lush, fresh wine with ripe pineapple, semisweet Riesling is a bouquet of jasmine blos- about this wine. As fine a cellar candidate as any melon and peach aromas. Tart tangerine notes soms and luscious pears laced with lime and Mondavi Reserve in years. Should develop for 12, meld gorgeously with a bitter lime peel finish, musk. Sweet honeycrisp apples and powdered 15, even 20 years. Cellar Selection. giving added complexity to this intensely con- sugar on the palate meld with a tang of acidity centrated although not quite “dry” Riesling. and a long, mouthwatering finish. —A.I. —A.I. Dr. Konstantin Frank 2008 Semi Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2008 88 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes); $15. 89 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes); $15. There’s a whiff of summer—ripe yellow peaches This beautiful Riesling from Chateau Lafayette caramelizing on the grill—trapped between the Reneau opens with a delicate prickle of acidity many layers of this honeyed, off-dry Riesling. that’s wonderfully enticing on the tongue. Lush The palate is polished with an undertone of wet with aromas of ripe yellow peaches and nec- stones and notes of freesia and grapefruit zest. tarines, it’s balanced artfully with a sharp, miner- Brisk acidity and a long, minerally finish round Trinchero 2007 Cloud’s Nest Vine- ally edge and bright lemony acidity. Finishes out this cheerful yet focused wine. —A.I. 95 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount quite dry. —A.I. Veeder); $50. A lovely Cabernet, brimming with Lamoreaux Landing 2009 Round complex blackberry, cherry, mineral, tobacco and Swedish Hill 2009 Dry Riesling 88 Rock Vineyard Riesling (Finger cedar flavors that impress for their sheer power. 89 (Finger Lakes); $16. Crisp and Lakes); $20. There’s a hint of smoke through- Shows the firm, hard tannins this mountain always refreshing with notes of grated ginger, white out the nose and palate that adds a layer of com- lends Cabs, but they’re so finely ground, the wine flowers and cantaloupe. This dry Riesling bal- plexity to this sweet, pretty Riesling. Aromas of is drinkable now with a good decanting. Should ances peachy fruit flavors with a steely backbone age well for a decade. Editors’ Choice. Continued on page 84 76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2010 Zaca Mesa 2007 Grenache (Santa Baxter 2007 Oppenlander Vine- 95 Ynez Valley); $32. This spectacular Chappellet 2007 Signature Caber- 93 yard Pinot Noir (Mendocino); $60. 100% Grenache is a huge success. It’s so deli- 94 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $42. A fresh, vibrant but tight young Pinot Noir. It’s cious, you can hardly stop drinking it. Just oozes This is the winery’s basic Cabernet, but there’s rich in wild raspberry, cherry and cola flavors, in raspberry and red cherry purée and nothing common about it. It’s dry and complex enhanced with spicy oak, and firm in acidity and caramelized, smoky oak richness, yet is thor- and moderately ageworthy, a hillside Cabernet tannins. Should be cellared for a good 3–5 years. oughly dry. An amazing, unforgettable wine that that revels in its plush, firm tannins and ripe fruit. Cellar Selection. establishes a new benchmark for California There’s a minerality that seems to come from the Grenache from this winery that was an early pio- soil, with expressive blackberry, currant, choco- Castello Banfi neer in Rhône varieties. Editors’ Choice. late and anise flavors. Really fine now after a 93 2005 Poggio decant, and should develop through this decade. alle Mura (Brunello di Astrales 2007 Montalcino); $85. 94 Tempranillo Castello Banfi’s cru expres- (Ribera del Duero); sion of Brunello, Poggio $67. Shows almost all alle Mura, is a dark and that’s great about the delicious Brunello with a region: dark, smoky, floral vertical aromatic delivery berry and chocolate aro- of blackberry, currants, plums, cola, mesquite and mas followed by juicy, spice. Sweet oak flavors of vanilla spread over the acid-driven boysenberry, palate and the wine has impressive consistency spice, bitter chocolate and and persistency. Imported by Banfi Vintners. peppery flavors. An excellent effort for a tough Pago de los Capellanes 2006 vintage, with dynamite power and a poise. Drink 94 Reserva (Ribera del Duero); $54. 2012–2018. Imported by Grapes of Spain. Sensational RDD Reserva with dry, smoky, ele- gant aromas and then a super-juicy, fresh, finely etched palate with composed cola, cherry, rasp- berry and more. This wine exhibits merit after merit; it’s complex yet easy to like. Really excel- lent for the money. Drink 2011–2018. Imported by Antalva Imports. Dutcher Crossing 2008 Bernier- 93 Sibary Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Baxter 2007 Run Dog Vineyard Creek Valley); $39. Quite a beautiful Zinfan- 94 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley); $45. del. It takes Dry Creek’s briary fruit and lifts it, An exotic Pinot of a type usually limited to although the wine retains a peppery, brambly Anderson Valley. It’s marked as much by gamy, character. Blended with Petite Sirah, Carignane mushroom and forest floor notes as by raspber- and Mataro (Mourvèdre), it’s rich in wild rasp- ries, cherries and red currants, with notes of Stonestreet 2008 Lower Rim berry, cherry, sweet cured tobacco, anise and san- licorice and pepper. Drily crisp and elegantly 94 Chardonnay (Alexander Valley); dalwood flavors, with a squeeze of orange constructed, this complex young wine should $55. Ultrarich, an oily, unctuous wine offering essence. develop for 4–6 years. tiers of pineapples, pears, limes and mangoes, enriched with sweet, smoky oak. Made in the superripe California style, yet always retains a crisp, dry elegance. WineMag.com | 77 BUYING GUIDE Val Sotillo 2004 93 Reserva (Ribera del Duero); $60. Wonder- ful on the bouquet, where earthy notes blend perfectly with alert, bright fruit aro- mas. This is a sizable, full- bodied wine with leather, lively fruit character and a Oakville Winery 2007 Estate dose of rich chocolate. It’s in excellent shape and Ghost Block 2007 Estate Cabernet 93 Grown & Produced Cabernet shows impressive balance and depth. Delicious 93 Sauvignon (Oakville); $60. A beau- Sauvignon (Oakville); $46. Very ripe and to the core, with heft and noticeable oak that tiful Cabernet. Dark, dry and elegantly struc- extracted, almost jammy, with primary fruit fla- should lessen if given more time. Drink tured, it has classic Napa tannins and is nicely vors of blackberries, black cherries, red plums, now–2019.