F i n g e r L a k e s

VineyardNNewsletter No. 7 Novemberotes 24, 2009 The 2009 Growing Season in Review IN THIS ISSUE Hans Walter-Peterson The 2009 growing season is behind us, and many growers are One of the greatest challenges to growing grapes in the eastern U.S. is the lack of thankful for that. The consistency between growing seasons. Just look at the past four growing seasons combination of some in the Finger Lakes – two of the years were warm and dry overall (2005, 2007), one very wet weather in the year was pretty good until the end of the season (2006), and one year that kind of middle of the season and played it closer to average for most of the season (2008). Growers always need to a lack of heat made for a be prepared for Mother Nature to throw just about anything at them, and adjust difficult year, whether you were growing their practices accordingly in order to produce the best quality and quantity of fruit Catawba or Cabernet Franc. Fortunate- that they can in a given year. ly, growers produced good quality fruit that processors and wineries are pretty The 2009 growing season was one that certainly would fall under the ‘challeng- pleased with given the challenges of the ing’ category for the Finger Lakes. Cooler than normal temperatures for much of season. But perhaps the bigger chal- the season, combined with what felt like almost constant rain for part of the sum- lenge that many growers faced this year mer, meant that growers had to pull out all of the stops to get to harvest with good was the reduction in purchases by grape quality fruit, which many were able to do in the end. On top of the difficulties buyers. Hopefully a new year will bring thrown at growers by this year’s growing conditions, the industry was also faced more buyers with more demand back with a difficult market situation with a number of buyers of grapes pulling back on into the marketplace. their purchases this year, or cancelling them altogether, and lower average prices for most varieties compared to last year. In addition to the regular suspects in this year’s Harvest Issue, you will find a Winter 2008-2009 short summary of how things have been Going into last winter, vineyards looked to be in pretty good shape. Canopies going with the new Classifieds website, remained green and functional through much of October, allowing for development Chris Gerling’s article on winemak- of periderm on canes and carbohydrate reserves that could be packed away into ers’ assessment of the 2009 vintage, a the vines’ permanent structures for overwintering. There was some initial cause for wrap-up summary of the Sustainable concern in some vineyards that ended up with much higher than normal crops that Viticulture project that ended this year cold hardiness might be compromised due to the vines’ allocating resources to rip- (at least the first phase of it) and a short interview with our new enology faculty 2009 Bud Hardiness (LT50 in °F) member, Dr. Anna Katharine Mansfield. 12/11/08 12/22/08 1/6/09 1/21/09 2/4/09 2/17/09 3/3/09 3/18/09 Concord -15.2 -20.6 -19.4 -22.6 -24.1 -21.4 -19.5 -4.1 Finally, don’t forget to mark your cal- endars for Viticulture 2010 will be held Cayuga White -7.7 -14.0 -11.9 -15.5 -16.5 -11.2 -9.0 -2.3 February 17-19, 2010 at the Riverside Riesling -9.0 -13.0 -12.5 -13.0 -12.5 -11.7 -10.2 -3.5 Convention Center in Rochester. You Cabernet Franc -7.1 -12.3 -10.4 -12.2 -12.9 -10.4 -9.8 -3.3 can find program, vendor and registra- Catawba -9.2 -10.8 -12.3 -15.3 -16.1 -10.1 -10.5 -4.4 tion information at the event’s website, www.viticulture2010.org. Hope to see Table 1. Bud hardiness of five varieties during the winter of 2008-09. you there! H a r v e s t I s s u e

Fi n g e r La k e s V i n e y a r d No t e s 2009 1 Fi n g e r La k e s Gr a p e Pr o g r a m ening a large crop and less to reserves. nections as the demand for water and Ad v i s o r y Co m m i t t e e Me m b e r s However, bud samples analyzed for nutrients increased during the season. The Finger Lakes Grape Program Advisory cold hardiness showed that vines were For the most part, however, vineyards Committee is a group of grower and industry well prepared overall to survive another came out of this past winter once again representatives that provides guidance and winter. with relatively low levels of bud and direction in planning meetings and activities vine damage. of the program. Current members are: For the second consecutive year, the Ontario County: Finger Lakes Grape Program (FLGP) 2009 Growing Season Rich Jerome, Naples John Ingle, Bristol collected bud samples of 5 different The year’s growing started out very varieties from multiple sites in the region similar to the past couple of years, with Seneca County: to monitor their level of cold hardi- a couple of periods of warm weather Cameron Hosmer, Ovid ness (Table 1). By the time the first in April but not enough to get the vines Bill Dalrymple, Lodi samples were taken in mid-December, to break dormancy early. A stretch

Schuyler County: bud hardiness, measured as LT50 or the of five days with temperatures in the John Santos, Hector temperature required to kill 50% of the 70s and 80s at the end of the month, Tina Hazlitt, Hector sampled buds, was already well below however, seemed to give early varieties zero for all five varieties. Cold hardiness like Marechal Foch and Leon Millot a Steuben County: had reached its maximum by early Feb- bit of a kick start. By early May, many Ray Emery, Pulteney Mel Goldman, Hammondsport ruary, with all varieties showing aver- varieties were showing signs of budswell age LT50 values below -10°F. Concord, or even budbreak. Yates County: Cayuga White and Cabernet Franc had Eileen Farnan, Branchport better hardiness in 2008-09 than in the As it is every year, the potential for frost Harry Humphreys, Dundee previous winter, while Riesling achieved damage is a primary concern of growers Industry Representatives: similar results compared to last year. during May. Most years it seems there Rich Stabins, are one or two nights where tempera- Constellation Brands Overall, the region experienced a fairly tures are forecast to drop close to freez- mild winter once again. Low tempera- ing and growers lose a little bit of sleep. Steve Richards, tures recorded at Geneva only dipped On May 19, well after shoot growth had Farm Credit of Western New York below zero once, on January 18, and started on most vines, low temperatures Derek Wilber, then only to -0.9°F (Figure 1). Other in the Finger Lakes fell to about 32°F White Springs Winery weather stations in the region, however, as recorded at several weather stations recorded temperatures during that same in the region. Several vineyards ex- Newsletter No. 7 time period as low as -6.9°F (at Branch- perienced some minor shoot damage, November 24, 2009 port). While temperatures like this are primarily on young vines and sucker Finger Lakes Vineyard Notes still much better than those experienced shoots close to the ground. Damage

is published by 80 was more extensive in a 70 couple of vineyards where Cornell Cooperative Extension 60 air drainage may have Finger Lakes Grape Program 50

F) been restricted, but overall in Ontario, Schuyler, Seneca, Steuben, 40 30 the region was fortunate to

and Yates Counties temp ( County Office Building 20 escape the spring without 417 Liberty Street • Penn Yan, NY 10 any major frost events. 14527-1130 0 The same cold event, Comments may be directed to: -10 11/1 11/15 11/29 12/13 12/27 1/10 1/24 2/7 2/21 3/7 3/21 unfortunately, had a much Hans C. Walter-Peterson 315-536-5134 or [email protected] Figure 1. High and low temperatures recorded at Geneva, greater impact in the Lake Viticulture Extension Specialist NY from 11/1/08 - 3/31/09. Erie region, where many Finger Lakes Grape Program growers suffered signifi- in 2003 and 2004, growers reported that cant frost damage to large portions of individual thermometers or temperature their acreage. loggers in their vineyards recorded tem- peratures closer to -10°F or even colder. 2009 Heat Accumulation Walking through some vineyards later The warm weather at the end of April Cornell Cooperative Extension and its employees assume no liability for the effectiveness or results during the growing season, evidence put the region ahead of average with re- of any product. No endorsement of products is of trunk injury could be found in some gard to accumulation of growing degree made or implied. When using any recommenda- spots, primarily in lower portions of a days (GDD) early in the season (Figure tion, check the product label which is the final site or where air circulation was poor, 2). Temperatures in May were generally word with respect to product usage, or check with the manufacturer or supplier for updated with shoots collapsing due to the failure about average, which kept the region information. of vascular tissues to maintain their con- slightly ahead of the game with regard

2 Fi n g e r La k e s V i n e y a r d No t e s 2009 700.0 combined with week behind. The cool temperatures 600.0 many days with during the month did not seem to re- cloud cover and duce vine growth, however, as the vines 500.0 rain, created had access to plenty of soil moisture 400.0 less than ideal which promoted vigorous shoot growth 300.0 conditions for in many vineyards. bloom in many 200.0 gdd (base 50) varieties. As a August brought about a return to relative 100.0 result, problems normalcy with regard both to GDDs 0.0 with fruit set and rainfall, but the previous couple of Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct were evident months put the region into a heat deficit in a number of that it wasn’t likely to makeup. How- 09 GDD LT Avg GDD vineyards, with ever, with even normal temperatures clusters showing and some decent sunshine after verai- Figure 2. Monthly GDD accumulation in 2009 at Geneva, NY com- reduced berry son, there was still hope that the season pared to the long-term average. numbers per would not be lost, and that good quality cluster or a lot 150.0 of “shot ber- ...July 2009 had the third 100.0 ries” on clusters (Figure 4). In fewest number of GDDs since 50.0 most cases, 1973, with only 1992 and 1976 0.0 reduced fruit set 4/1 5/1 5/31 6/30 7/30 8/29 9/28 10/28 being cooler than this year. -50.0 was limited to

-100.0 certain vines or certain portions fruit could still be harvested. Fortunate- gdd deviation from lt avg -150.0 of vineyards ly, September responded somewhat to -200.0 rather than be- the industry’s needs dry, sunny weather 08 GDD Deviation 09 GDD Deviation ing found over for most of the month. While heat ac- large areas. It cumulation remained just below average Figure 3. Deviation of GDD accumulation from the long-term average at Geneva. The region experienced below average GDDs in June and was not unusual for the month, the lack of rainfall was a July and could not make up the deficit the rest of the season. to see vines with welcome change of pace and helped to poorly set clus- keep development of late season bunch to GDD accumulation by the time June ters directly adjacent to others that had rots in check. October, however, de- rolled around. As of June 1, wild grapes more normal-looking clusters. cided to give the region one last change and clusters on rootstocks were in of pace, as the month finished off the bloom, which led to hope on the part of In 2009, June will be remembered as season with low GDD accumulation many of an earlier than normal bloom a wet month, and July will be remem- and more rainfall than normal. for cultivated varieties. Trace bloom bered as a cold month. In fact, July Despite the cooler than normal sea- was evident on early varieties like Baco 2009 had the third fewest number of son, harvest in Finger Lakes started on and GR7 by June 6, with Concord and GDDs since 1973, with only 1992 and August 31, which was only a few days Niagara starting bloom about 4-5 days 1976 being later than the start date most years. The later, which was still a little bit earlier cooler than sunny weather in September made har- than normal. this year vest go smoothly for most growers pick- (July 2000 ing earlier varieties. Vineyards around The tide for the growing season really had the Branchport and Dresden experienced started to turn near the beginning of exact same the first freezing temperatures of the June. At the beginning of the month, GDDs as season on October 12, when morning GDD accumulation was running about this year as lows dropped to around 27°F in some 10% higher than the long-term aver- well). In spots. To some growers, this was a age, or about 2 days ahead (Figure 3). the span of signal to get fruit off the vines, while Below average temperatures seemed to one month, others decided to wait longer to harvest become the rule for the month, howev- the grow- despite the lack of functional leaf area. er, as the region went from 10% above ing season Some late season varieties like Catawba average GDD accumulation to about went from Figure 4. Cool temperatures and Cabernet Sauvignon ended up 4% below normal. The bigger issue in being 2 and rain after bloom caused being picked with no leaves remaining June for the Finger Lakes, however, was days behind problems with fruit set in on the canopy. Other vineyards in the the seemingly almost constant rainfall average to some Finger Lakes vine- region, such as some of those on the (see next section). The cool weather, almost one yards. west side of Cayuga Lake, did not lose

Ha r v e s t Is s u e 3 their leaves until the end of the month. gives us a different picture of the year The last grapes in the region, except than the impressions that the season left those destined for dessert wines, were with us. The impact of when the rains harvested by the end of the first week of came and when they did not certainly November. makes a difference as well.

Rainfall in 2009. The year started off dry, with April be- Let me open with a statement that will ing the driest month of the season with probably surprise most people – over only 1.4” of rain. While this early deficit the entirety of the growing season, 2009 certainly contributed to the “drier than was a drier than normal year. That’s normal” status of the growing season, one could easily argue that a wet or right – we had less rain from April to Figure 7. High rainfall during the middle October this year than we normally do, dry April has less impact on the char- acteristics of the growing season than of the growing season promoted shoot at least according to the data collected growth and forced many growers to hedge other months simply by the lack of vine by the weather station at Geneva (Figure more than once. 5). This may not necessarily have been growth during that time. Rainfall in May was a bit above average in Geneva, high rainfall amounts also made weed 3.00 but as an example of how control more challenging as the season patterns can be different 2.00 progressed, particularly when it came to depending on where you late season grasses. 1.00 are, Branchport had about 1.5” less than Geneva (Fig- The region finally started to experi- 0.00 ure 6). This relatively dry ence a break from the cool and wet of 4/1 5/1 5/31 6/30 7/30 8/29 9/28 10/28 weather in portions of the -1.00 June and July starting around August Finger Lakes meant it was 10, when a prolonged period of lower -2.00 less likely to find phomop-

rainfall deviation from lt avg rainfall took over almost until the end sis infections on shoots in -3.00 of September. On August 10, rainfall at areas like Branchport and Geneva was 1.7” above normal for the 09 Precip 08 Precip Pulteney later in the season. season. Over the following six week Figure 5. Deviation of 2009 rainfall from the long-term period, rainfall amounts were about 3.5” average. While June and July were wetter than normal, Rain seemed to be an below average, with September total- April and September were very dry and brought the over- almost constant reality in ing only 1.6” of rain for the month. The all season total back down below average. Most people, the month of June, par- lack of rain helped to prevent significant however, will probably still say that 2009 was a wet year ticularly during the latter outbreaks of botrytis and other bunch because of the timing. half of the month and the rots in most vineyards, allowing growers 6.0 early part of July when it to feel more comfortable about letting

5.0 seemed like it rained almost fruit hang longer before picking. The every day, which it turns rains made a final return appearance 4.0 out, it did. During the last in October, but only to the extent of 3.0 21 days of June, 15 days what growers are used to during the last

rainfall (in) 2.0 had some level of measur- month of harvest. able rainfall. Rainfall at 1.0 Geneva totaled just over 5” So yes, all in all the year ended up drier 0.0 for June, about 1.5” above than normal, but the timing and consis- Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct the average for the month, tency of the rainfall, especially during 09 Rainfall LT Avg Rainfall Branch 09 while Branchport recorded the middle of the season, left everyone 5.7 inches. This heavy with the impression of 2009 as a wet Figure 6. 2009 rainfall by month at Geneva (blue) and rain made vineyard work and cloudy year overall. Branchport (green) compared to Geneva’s long-term aver- age. more difficult, particularly spraying as growers had Pest Management true everywhere in the Finger Lakes. difficulty finding enough time without Pest management in Finger Lakes We know that in some years, certain rain to apply materials to their vineyards. vineyards is a challenge every year, to areas can receive significantly more Ample soil moisture also promoted say the least. This year, growers found or less rain than others, but the notion strong shoot growth in many vineyards. themselves pulling sprayers through the that there was anyplace this year which Many growers ended up having to make vineyards more often than they usually recorded less rain than average was sur- more than one hedging pass in order to have to, thanks to the rains during June prising to say the least. This is likely one keep shoots from getting too long and and July, prime periods of the year for of those cases where looking at the data shading the fruiting zone (Figure 7). The infections to get established on clusters. Continued on page 15

4 Fi n g e r La k e s V i n e y a r d No t e s 2009 acid reduction is happening in the juice, because, as Barry Tortolon puts it, “the juice seems indestructible compared to WINEMAKING the wine.” The later reds are just now no getting around the basic truths that happening or have yet to happen for the Harvest report 2009: the season was a.) cool and b.) wet, it most part, but Dave Breeden sees no was consistently so, and this consistency green favors, and Peter Bell at Fox Run The Waiting is gave people the opportunity to adjust. is seeing the best color he can remem- In the Finger Lakes, where nature didn’t ber in Lemberger. the Hardest Part thin, people did. As John Herbert at Wagner said, “We saw this coming, so In the twenty-first century, we have Chris Gerling, Statewide Extension we thinned most everything, and we apparently adopted a triennial cycle of Enology thinned the Pinot Noir twice.” Mario cold, wet seasons. 2000, 2003, 2006 Mazza of Mazza Vineyards and Mazza and now 2009 have distinguished In late October of Chautauqua said that shoot thinning, themselves as years where money could 2008, I talked to especially for white hybrids, “paid huge be saved on sunscreen but not spray winemakers from dividends.” materials. But when the winemakers across the state to looked back on the previous gray years, get their impressions After the thinning came the waiting. things seemed a lot brighter this time of the season, the “We didn’t touch a grape in Septem- around. 2009 is not as “wrenching,” harvest and what kind ber,” said Barry Tortolon of Rooster as Peter Bell put it, and I don’t think it’s of wines we might ex- Hill. Dave Breeden estimates that they because the weather was so much more pect. Making contact are picking on a schedule that’s about favorable. My theory is that New York this year to ask the same questions, I three full weeks behind last year. Wait- vineyards and wineries are gaining expe- noted one area of contrast fairly quickly. ing would not be a viable option if the rience and sophistication, and they are As Dave Breeden at Sheldrake Point told grapes weren’t clean, however, and all responding more quickly and accurately me, “I’m happy to share my thoughts, of the winemakers were quick to praise to changing conditions. This is not to but we won’t be harvesting Riesling, the heroic efforts of vineyard person- say our troubles are behind us, or even Cab Franc or Cab Sauv for a couple of nel in keeping up with the sprays and that we’re out of the woods this year weeks yet. “ Waiting is the tactic that is canopy management. In a year plant (we’re not even out of the vineyard). both physically easiest and emotionally pathologists have described as ready- The point is that we will expect excel- hardest on winemakers and vineyard made for powdery mildew, all winemak- lent wines from New York State in 2009, managers, and 2009 has featured plenty ers were quick to praise tireless work and, all things considered, I think that’s of it. While having Halloween serve as from their outdoor counterparts. John really saying something about where more of a checkpoint than a finish line Herbert said the words every vineyard this industry is and where it’s going. Just may be one of the notable features of manager loves to hear: “We didn’t pick you wait. the season, however, delays are not all on disease pressure at all.” there is to talk about. In a year where the challenges were plentiful and the The varieties we usually describe as degree days were not, winemakers and “early” have been praised for hav- vineyard managers used all of the tools ing excellent varietal character and at their disposal to focus on producing Gewurztraminer was mentioned more high-quality cool climate wines. than once as being a highlight to date. People are also happy with Pinot Noir, In a general sense, we’ve had a pretty and I would definitely put this info into good idea about the look and feel of the category of pleasant surprise. Along 2009 for quite some time. The tone was with Gewz., Christopher Tracy is excited set early on as late freezes and ill-timed by Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Tocai moisture wreaked havoc on fruit set in and more. Mario Mazza said he has Western NY and on Long Island, lower- seen some “fantastic whites,” and quite ing crop levels by half or more in some good reds where the vineyard was bal- cases. The silver lining to the apparent anced. “The acids are a little high” was disaster is that 2009 was a fantastic year a phrase I heard repeatedly, but every- to have some pre-thinning. This idea one had a plan and was dealing ac- was echoed by Christopher Tracy of cordingly. Dave Breeden went further, Channing Daughters, who explained, saying, “we usually have to add acid to “what we have will be super; there’s just some of these early wines, so this year not that much of it.” And while there’s we’re saving money.” A fair amount of

Ha r v e s t Is s u e 5 2009 Grape Prices 2009 Grape Price Analysis year’s prices. The average price for the Corot Noir (-12%), Marechal Foch varieties in the category increased by (-8%), Baco Noir (-6%) and Chambour- Hans Walter-Peterson 4% over last year, due in large part to an cin, which had its average price drop 11% increase in the price for Elvira this by 25%, the largest decrease for any According to the information gathered year. Delaware prices increased by 8% variety this year. for the Finger Lakes Grape Program’s on average, while Concord and Niagara grape pricing list, grape prices in the prices inched up slightly. Only Catawba Vinifera. Prices for vinifera varieties fol- Finger Lakes continued a similar pattern saw a drop in its average price, but then lowed the same trend as hybrid prices, as 2008, with prices for most variet- only by 1%. Prices for other native with all varieties but one having lower ies dropping from those paid from the varieties were flat except for Diamond, average prices in 2009. The average previous year, except for native varieties. which saw a slight increase of 2%. price for white vinifera varieties overall The downward price pressure was a fell by 5%, with the biggest drops by result of high inventories at most winer- Hybrids. Prices for most red and white Gewürtztraminer (-12%), Pinot Blanc ies, which caused buyers to cut back hybrids fell this year, reinforcing a trend (-9%) and Riesling (-9%). The lone on their annual grape purchases, if not from last year. The average price for all bright spot in vinifera prices this year cutting them entirely. The number of white hybrids (as a category) fell by 10% was Sauvignon Blanc, which saw an buyers in 2009 also decreased for 28 of this year (this was partly influenced by increase of 9% in its price. Sauvignon the 51 varieties included in the survey, the price for Verdelet Blanc, which was Blanc is still a relatively new variety for while only 3 varieties saw more buyers not included in the 2008 list but was this the Finger Lakes, and it will be interest- this year. Those buyers who were in year). Every variety in the category had ing to see what kind of demand there the market to purchase grapes were in lower average prices this year except will be for it in the future, and just the driver’s seat when it came to setting for Aurore, which gained 3%. Cayuga where its price will settle as a result. prices and deciding which growers to White saw its average price fall by 6%, purchase grapes from this year. which was not surprising given the tons Red vinifera prices fell across the board, that were listed as available on the Clas- which resulted in a drop of 8% in the The information in this analysis, and the sifieds website. Average prices also fell overall average price for the category. following table, is based on price lists for Seyval (2%), Traminette (7%), Vidal Besides Sangiovese, the largest price submitted to the Department of Agricul- (4%) and Vignoles (6%). drop was for Cabernet Sauvignon ture and Markets and voluntarily submit- (-10%). This was a little surprising at ted to the FLGP by participating grape Price changes were a bit more of a first, but it is likely that at least part of buyers. The full price list was published mixed bag with red hybrids. As a cat- the reason for this is fewer Finger Lakes in the Finger Lakes Vineyard Notes egory, the average price for red hybrids wineries purchasing these grapes from newsletter, and is available at our web- fell by 2%, but there was a wide range Long Island this year. The average price site, http://flg.cce.cornell.edu. This data of price changes for individual variet- for Cabernet Franc, another variety with does not take into account the number ies. Four varieties increased in price a surplus this year based on ads in the of tons purchased by any specific buyer, this year – Chancellor (+5%), Chelois Classifieds, dropped by 7% in 2009. and therefore may not reflect the ‘true’ (+10%), GR7 (+5%) and Noiret (+3%), Prices also fell for Lemberger (-9%), Pi- average price of particular varieties. but this positive move in price was not Noir (-8%) and Merlot (-7%). Syrah tempered a bit by a reduction in buyers was one of the few varieties with any Natives. Overall, the major native for all four varieties. Significant variet- gain at all in the number of buyers this varieties were the lone bright spot in this ies with lower prices this year included year, going from one buyer to two.

2008 2009 % Change (2008-2009) # of 2009 # of 2008 Variety Average High Low Average High Low Average High Low Buyers Buyers Native Catawba 338 400 150 333 400 200 -1% 0% 33% 12 13 Concord 297 450 215 301 450 233 1% 0% 8% 11 11 Delaware 370 600 250 399 600 295 8% 0% 18% 8 10 Elvira 265 290 230 295 295 295 11% 2% 28% 2 3 Niagara 321 450 225 329 450 233 2% 0% 4% 14 18 Average (Majors) 318 438 214 331 439 251 4% 0% 17%

6 Fi n g e r La k e s V i n e y a r d No t e s 2009 2008 2009 % Change (2008-2009) # of 2009 # of 2008 Variety Average High Low Average High Low Average High Low Buyers Buyers Diamond 431 475 400 442 475 400 2% 0% 0% 3 4 Dutchess 400 400 400 ------0 1 Golden Muscat 375 375 375 375 375 375 0% 0% 0% 2 1 Isabella 492 525 475 492 525 475 0% 0% 0% 3 3 Ives 415 450 380 415 450 380 0% 0% 0% 2 2 Average (Others) 423 445 406 431 456 408 2% 3% 0% Red Hybrid Baco noir 636 850 510 598 700 510 -6% -18% 0% 8 10 Cascade 375 400 350 ------0 2 Castel 543 700 385 543 700 385 0% 0% 0% 2 2 Chambourcin 917 950 900 688 825 525 -25% -13% -42% 4 3 Chancellor 667 750 600 700 700 700 5% -7% 17% 3 6 Chelois 706 900 600 775 900 650 10% 0% 8% 2 4 Colobel 700 800 600 667 700 600 -5% -13% 0% 3 3 Corot Noir 628 700 585 554 700 400 -12% 0% -32% 6 3 De Chaunac 526 650 450 491 630 450 -7% -3% 0% 5 6 GR7 549 630 510 579 650 510 5% 3% 0% 4 5 Leon Millot 650 700 625 625 650 600 -4% -7% -4% 4 5 Marechal foch 666 725 600 609 700 540 -8% -3% -10% 7 8 Noiret 692 800 600 715 750 625 3% -6% 4% 5 6 Rosette 417 525 350 375 375 375 -10% -29% 7% 1 3 Rougeon 538 650 400 528 650 400 -2% 0% 0% 8 10 Vincent 669 750 600 613 700 525 -8% -7% -13% 7 8 Average 617 718 542 604 689 520 -2% -4% -4% White Hybrid Aurore 381 440 300 393 440 325 3% 0% 8% 4 4 Cayuga White 622 700 550 587 700 495 -6% 0% -10% 17 19 Seyval blanc 625 700 500 613 700 500 -2% 0% 0% 10 11 Traminette 1003 1100 800 935 1100 800 -7% 0% 0% 10 10 Verdelet blanc - - - 400 400 400 - - - 1 0 Vidal blanc 665 800 500 638 900 500 -4% 13% 0% 8 13 Vignoles 800 900 700 756 900 525 -6% 0% -25% 9 11 Villard blanc 800 800 800 700 700 700 -13% -13% -13% 1 1 Average 699 777 593 628 730 531 -10% -6% -10% Vidal late harvest 2000 2000 2000 ------0 1 Vignoles late harvest 1500 1800 1000 1600 1600 1600 7% -11% 60% 2 4 Average Late Harvest 1750 1900 1500 1600 1600 1600 -9% -16% 7% Red Vinifera Cabernet franc 1328 1750 650 1242 1550 800 -7% -11% 23% 12 15 Cabernet sauvignon 1789 2800 1500 1605 1700 1200 -10% -39% -20% 10 14 Gamay noir 1600 1600 1600 ------0 1 Lemberger 1400 1750 1000 1269 1500 1000 -9% -14% 0% 8 9 Merlot 1936 2800 1600 1806 2000 1500 -7% -29% -6% 8 14 Pinot noir 1663 1800 1500 1532 1800 1000 -8% 0% -33% 11 14

Ha r v e s t Is s u e 7 2008 2009 % Change (2008-2009) # of 2009 # of 2008 Variety Average High Low Average High Low Average High Low Buyers Buyers Sangiovese 1800 1800 1800 1500 1500 1500 -17% -17% -17% 1 1 Syrah 1800 1800 1800 1750 2000 1500 -3% 11% -17% 2 1 Average 1664 2013 1431 1529 1721 1214 -8% -14% -15% White Vinifera Chardonnay 1299 1600 900 1238 1500 900 -5% -6% 0% 14 18 Gewurztraminer 1643 1800 1400 1440 1700 1000 -12% -6% -29% 10 15 Pinot blanc 1600 1700 1500 1450 1500 1400 -9% -12% -7% 2 2 Pinot gris 1623 1725 1450 1540 1700 1150 -5% -1% -21% 10 12 Riesling 1565 1750 1100 1417 1900 1000 -9% 9% -9% 15 20 Sauvignon blanc 1633 1800 1500 1775 1800 1750 9% 0% 17% 2 3 Average 1561 1729 1308 1477 1683 1200 -5% -3% -8%

We thank the following processors and wineries for EXTENSION providing copies of their 2009 Field Meetings and Demonstrations price lists for this report.

Anthony Road Wine Company December 8. Compost Use in Bully Hill Vineyards Vineyards. With growers becom- Constellation Wines ing more conscious about the Chateau Lafayette Reneau importance of their vineyard soils’ Cliffstar Corporation quality and health, along with Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine the increasing costs of fertilizers, Cellars there continues to be interest in Fall Bright Winemakers Shop the benefits growers might find Fox Run Vineyards by using compost, pomace and Fulkerson’s Winery other organic materials in their Glenora Wine Cellars vineyards. This meeting provided Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards growers with some guidance Heart and Hands Winery when it comes to using these Heron Hill Winery John Santos discusses his composting system at materials. Cornell extension staff Hunt Country Vineyards Hazlitt 1852. discussed compost management Imagine Moore Winery practices and resources to help King Ferry Winery find finished compost or feed stocks, along with the nutrient impact composts Lakewood Vineyards might have in vineyards. Local growers Matt Doyle and John Santos shared their Lucas Vineyards experiences with using composted materials in some of their vineyards. The meet- Rooster Hill Winery ing also included an outdoor demonstration on the construction and composition of Royal Kedem / Springledge Farms compost piles, and equipment used to spread the material in the vineyard. Partici- Sheldrake Point Vineyards pants: Jean Bonhotal (Cornell Waste Management Institute), Hans Walter-Peterson Swedish Hill Vineyards (Finger Lakes Grape Program), Matt Doyle (Doyle Vineyard Management), John White Springs Winery Santos (Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards).

May 12. Canopy Management for Hybrids. Canopy management practices like leaf pulling, shoot thinning and crop adjustment are becoming standard practices for growers of vinifera varieties. This meeting was held to provide growers with an update on research by Dr. Justine Vanden Heuvel that is looking at the potential benefits of these practices on the quality of hybrid grape varieties. The meeting covered not only impacts on fruit parameters, but also productions costs and po- tential returns and labor requirements for these practices. Experimental wines from several of the treatments were brought for growers to compare as well. Partici- pants: Justine Vanden Heuvel (Cornell University), Tim Martinson (Cornell Univer- sity), Trent Preszler (Cornell University, grad student).

8 Fi n g e r La k e s V i n e y a r d No t e s 2009 May 19. Spring Grape IPM Field Meeting. The FLGP’s annual Spring NEW Grape IPM Field Meeting was held this year at the Dresden farm operated by FACULTY Doyle Vineyard Management. The program for this year’s meeting cov- Dr. Anna Katharine Mansfield is Cor- ered an array of topics including equip- nell’s new enology faculty member in ment for more precise pesticide appli- the Department of Food Science in cation, grape berry moth management, Geneva. Anna Katharine started her updates on disease and weed manage- position this past January, and while she ment, scouting for pests, DEC rules has had the opportunity to meet many regarding recordkeeping and others. members of the Finger Lakes industry, Thanks to Matt Doyle and his crew for Growers watch a sprayer demonstration dur- I thought this might be a chance for hosting the event this year, as well as ing the annual Spring Grape IPM meeting. her to tell us a little bit about herself, the program’s sponsors who provided what she’s been up to over the past 10 financial support for this year’s meeting. Participants: Andrew Landers (NYSAES – months, and some initial thoughts about Entomology), Greg Loeb (NYSAES – Entomology), Wayne Wilcox (NYSAES – Plant where she sees her program starting to Pathology), Rick Dunst (CLEREL – Portland), Andy Muza (Penn State Cooperative focus in the near future. - HCW Extension), Tim Weigle (CLEREL - Portland), Ed Hanbach (DEC – Bath). Sponsors: Bayer, Syngenta, Crop Production Services, Valent, United Phosphorus, Shake Away, Tell us a little bit JMS Flower Farms, Acadian Agritech, BASF, Dow, Helena, Gowan. about your back- ground and how May 20. Mechanical Shoot Thinning Demonstration. Shoot thinning can be one you ended up at of the most effective means of both reducing crop and shoot density in vigorous Cornell? vineyards, which can lead to improved fruit quality and disease control. Mechani- cal means of doing this are gaining interest from growers because of the potential I was an English to do this practice with minimal labor costs while still gaining the benefits. This major in col- meeting demonstrated a mechanical shoot thinner that is being used commercially lege, but took an in other parts of the country. The demonstration took place in a Concord vineyard, internship in a but the machine was also used successfully on a Vignoles block on the same farm. winery in what is now the Yadkin Valley Participants: Hans Walter-Peterson (FLGP), Wade Heinemann, Andy Joy (OXBO), AVA of North Carolina and realized that Jim Bedient (Branchport – host). I loved the work. After a few years at the Biltmore Estate winery in Asheville, June 15. Industry ‘Roundtable’ with Ted NC, I went to Virginia Tech for an MS Bennett and Deborah Cahn, Navarro in food science, focusing on wine flavor Vineyards. Ted Bennett and Deborah precursors. This led to a job as the first Cahn founded Navarro Vineyards over Enology Project Leader at the University 20 years ago in California’s Anderson of Minnesota, where I developed an Valley. The vineyard is committed to sus- extension program to serve the grow- tainable farming practices, and specializ- ing cold-climate wine industry in that es in cool climate white varieties, includ- state, and became very familiar with ing Riesling, Gewürtztraminer and Pinot cold-hardy winegrape cultivars. I also Gris, similar to the Finger Lakes. Ted worked on a PhD part time, focusing on and Deborah discussed their company’s wine flavor chemistry and sensory char- Ted Bennett from Navarro Vineyards discusses his business with members of the history, production practices and market- acterization. I completed that degree Finger Lakes industry. ing strategies with about 20 growers and in 2008, and was excited to have the winemakers from the Finger Lakes. One chance to return to the east coast and area that the discussion focused on was their success at marketing to the 70,000 work in another interesting and variable customers on their mailing list, to whom they sell over 95% of their 35,000 case wine region. production directly. Participants: Anthony Road Wine Company (hosts). Can you tell us a little bit about your June 18. Marketing for Grape Growers. About 18 growers and winery owners position, your specialties or areas of met to hash out ideas about marketing grapes to potential buyers both within and interest? outside of New York. Trent Preszler, chief operating officer of Bedell Cellars on Long Island, and a graduate student of Justine Vanden Heuvel, talked about his per- In the new, expanded enology program spective on how growers can help make themselves stand out in the crowd, which at Cornell, I’m often called “the new is always an important undertaking, but can help to pay even better dividends in Thomas,” and it’s true to some extent; Continued on page 18

Ha r v e s t Is s u e 9 like Thomas Henick-Kling, I have both This year I was astounded to see Right now, I have a graduate student extension and research duties. This Rieslings with TA’s that reminded me working on a comparative sensory means that I’ll collaborate with Chris strongly of the high-sugar, high-acid study of Rieslings grown in various Gerling in providing technical support hybrids we were working with in Min- microclimates in the Finger Lakes; it to wineries and planning educational nesota. It’s been quite a year! Beyond was partially funded by the NYWGF, programs, but will also advise graduate that, I was surprised to find that there’s and I hope it will help the region start to students and develop a research pro- a broad range of expertise in New York. define what differentiates a FL Riesling gram to address applied research prob- After coming from Minnesota, where from other great Rieslings of the world. lems. My lab will be involved in more nearly everyone is new to the industry, Prompted by industry members, I have short-term projects covering a range of I expected that the New York industry another graduate student working to questions. The goal will be to answer would have less need for extension optimize tannin addition protocol for pressing industry questions that might help - it’s an established wine region, so low tannin reds; it was a perfect year not be suitable for longer-term studies. everyone knows everything, right? It’s for that project! We received funding been fun to work both with all the new from the NYFVI for that work, and will My areas of interest are fairly broad; my wineries that are still opening in the extend the project next year to some academic training was in wine flavor state, and with some of the more estab- expanded winery trials. I’m currently and sensory evaluation, and I’ve spent lished producers who have more chal- working with colleagues from other most of the past 8 years working brand lenging questions, issues that I haven’t universities to put together multi-state new, cold-hardy winegrapes. In a more had a chance to tackle in a smaller grants to look at various parameters of general sense, I see a need in NY to region. Further, I have been very pleas- interest - how to optimize white wine look at some basic quality issues and antly surprised to see how open the processing to improve sensory profiles- characterization questions - how yeast industry is, how people work together ie, reduce bitterness - and how phenolic assimilable nitrogen (YAN) varies in and cooperate, and how welcoming profiles are implicated in that. Some of various parts of the state, how we can they have been to me. That varies from the YAN data we saw in the Veraison to grow or process wine grapes to optimize region to region, and I was pleased to Harvest samples this year is intriguing, phenolic profiles, and how regional see the camaraderie that exists here. and I would like to look at that more differences affect wine sensory profiles. closely- track variability from year to There are a lot of interesting questions I know you have been in your position year and cultivar to cultivar, for instance, still waiting to be answered. for only a short time, but can you tell and see if we can link vineyard practices us a little bit about any projects you more closely to yeast nutrient issues. What have you been discovering about are starting to work on? What about The biggest driver, of course, is industry the grape and wine industry in New any research ideas a little further down interest, so I hope to keep communicat- York? Has anything surprised you at the road? ing with winery owners, and continue all? to focus on projects that will positively impact the NY wine industry.

Impacts. The program has reached 85 NY vineyards, representing 7,300 acres SUSTAINABILITY of grapes, or 23% of New York grape acreage. Forty growers completed an action plan, and changed 15 practices Sustainable Viticulture VineBalance program has reached over per plan (on average). Seventeen ap- 85 growers and wineries, providing plied for cost-sharing through local Soil Project Enters a New a means to evaluate, document and and Water Conservation districts, and 8 address environmental issues on their were funded, at an estimated $77,000- Phase farms. 100,000. The most common improve- ments were in the areas of: The heart of this program is the New Timothy E. Martinson York Guide to Sustainable Viticulture • safe storage and handling of fertil- Senior Extension Associate Practices, which allows growers to rate izers and pesticides Dept. Horticultural Sciences - Geneva specific production practices for sustain- ability- and to develop a detailed action • Improving soil health (including Since 2005, grape extension programs plan to address issues they have identi- changes in N fertilization) across New York have teamed up with fied. The guide was developed col- industry groups in the Finger Lakes, laboratively by extension, industry, and • Modifying spray practices to reduce Lake Erie, and Long Island regions to the New York State Agricultural Environ- drift and increase deposition. promote and document sustainable mental Management (AEM) program. viticulture practices in New York. The Continued on page 11

10 Fi n g e r La k e s V i n e y a r d No t e s 2009 ads placed on the site within its first sev- en months of operation, almost 5 times MARTKETING the number of ads that the previous site would receive in any given year. In a In April 2009, the FLGP launched the recent survey, almost 80% of users had ‘NY Grape and Wine NY Grape and Wine Classifieds website a favorable impression of the site, and to take the place of the previous service. 88% who had used the previous version Classified’ Website In addition to listing ads for grapes and of the service indicated that the new bulk wine to purchase or sell, the web- site was an improvement over the old Debuts in 2009 site lets growers, wineries and others in one. The 32 respondents to the survey the New York grape and wine industry indicated that the site helped them to Several years ago, the Finger Lakes to advertise for equipment and vines sell over 280 tons of grapes and 6,500 Grape Program developed the Finger for sale or to purchase, and contains a gallons of bulk wine this year. Lakes Grape Listing website to help help wanted section as well. The new grape growers and winemakers in New site is organized in a similar fashion to In order to expand the reach of the Clas- York who were looking to buy and sell the popular classifieds site, Craig’s List, sifieds service, the FLGP has also been grapes and bulk wine to connect with and is free to use. Growers and winer- working with the New York Wine & each other. In November 2008, the ies from other states looking to purchase Grape Foundation to promote the site in Grape Listing site had to be taken down, fruit or wine from New York are also other states to help growers to develop leaving industry members without an able to post ads, in an effort help grow- new customers and markets in areas easy and convenient way to let others ers to find new buyers in new markets. outside of New York. The Foundation know what they had available or were has also provided financial support for looking to buy. The site has been well-received by the the development and maintenance of industry. There have been almost 500 the site, which we thank them for.

SUSTAINABILITY, continued Funding Support. The effort to produce funding from the New York Farm Viabil- the workbook and provide outreach to ity Institute. We wish Rob and Peter suc- The program documented significant growers was made possible with fund- cess in carrying forward this new effort decreases in N fertilization use over the ing from the Northeast Center for Risk to benefit grape growers in New York. past 5 years- leading to an estimated Management Education and the New 40% overall reduction, and savings of York Farm Viability Institute, who fund- around 90 tons (actual N) applied per ed two separate grants for this project. year. The Future. Now that educational Green Marketing. Industry interest in materials for documenting sustainable documenting sustainability stems from practices are in place, industry represen- interest by consumers in food safety tatives are taking the lead in developing and sustainability. The VineBalance ‘green labeling’ and certification proce- workbook has allowed major proces- dures. The New York State Winegrape sors (such as Welchs) to shape policies Growers and National Grape Coopera- and evolution of retailers’ sustainability tive have teamed up on a new project to programs, maintaining and expanding develop green labeling and certification. markets for NY grape juice. Wineries Peter Martini of Anthony Road Vine- are incorporating their use of sustainable yard and Rob Smith of National Grape practices into their marketing programs. Cooperative are leading the effort, with

Ha r v e s t Is s u e 11 RESEARCH BRIEFS

Finger Lakes Growers Trials are underway to investigate the grapes by 2-3 weeks as measured by optimum quantities to be applied. Effi- Brix levels; they increase also titratable and Wineries Cooperate cacy trials with Wayne Wilcox and Greg acidity in fruit juice. The objectives of on Research and Loeb. Cooperator: John Santos, Hector. our study are to identify the potential of insecticides at managing populations Demonstration Projects Development of a Precision vineyard of insect vectors and to evaluate the sprayer. Andrew Landers (Entomol- budget costs of leafroll management. Each year, a number of growers and win- ogy – Geneva). Two major projects are Finger Lakes Cooperators: Hazlitt 1852, eries in the Finger Lakes cooperate with underway at the NYSAES at Geneva. Hosmer, Wagner, Dr. Frank, Anthony Cornell research and extension staff on One project is developing an adjustable Road, Fox Run, Prejean, Lucas, Knapp, applied research projects that deal with real air louvre for both sprayers with a grape Goose Watch, Rooster Hill, Keuka issues in the vineyard and the winery. The tower and traditional airblast sprayers. Spring, Atwater, Swedish Hill, Chateau participation of these people is a valuable The second project is to develop a GPS/ Lafayette Reneau, and Sheldrake. contribution to the success of these proj- GIS flow recording system, to monitor ects, and we all appreciate their support of flow and location for farm management High Resolution Vineyard Temperature this work. Following are short summaries and traceability purposes. Monitoring. Alan Lakso (Horticulture – of many of these cooperative projects over Geneva), Art DeGaetano (Earth and At- the past year. Leafroll Disease: Occurrence, Impact, mospheric Science – Ithaca). Variations Spread, and Budget Costs. Marc Fuchs in vineyard temperatures as affected Software to determine the optimal vol- (Plant Pathology – Geneva), Greg Loeb by topography, distance from the lake, ume rate for pesticides Andrew Landers (Entomology – Geneva), Tim Martinson distance from trees, drought, etc. are and Emilio Gil (Entomology – Geneva). (Horticulture – Geneva), Brad Rickard, being documented with over 100 small A computer program was developed by Miguel Gomez (Applied Economics temperature loggers placed in grids or Emilio Gil at the University Polytecnica and Management – Ithaca). Leafroll transects in Finger Lakes vineyards. In du Catalonia in Barcelona, Spain, to is one of the major virus diseases of 2009, we also are documenting the determine application volume based grapevines. It’s transmission from vine effects of wind machines at Glenora for upon canopy dimensions at the time of to vine is achieved by mealybug and effects on cold temperatures. Under- application, pesticide, trellis and sprayer soft scale insects. A survey of Finger standing these effects will help the type. Two cooperating growers con- Lakes vineyards for leafroll disease grower to better match variety to site or ducted a second season-long trial using indicated a widespread distribution optimize sampling and harvest timing. recommended rates from the program. and high infection rate in most of the This work is in collaboration with the Cooperators: Bill Dalrymple, Lodi and sites tested. Similarly, three species of Institute for Application of Geospatial Mike Jordan, Westfield. insect vectors were found in most of Technologies (IAGT), a GIS center the vineyards surveyed although at low in Auburn, and Cornell's Northeast Evaluation of weed control nozzles. population densities. However, most of Regional Climate Center. Cooperators: Andrew Landers (Entomology – Ge- the insect vectors collected in leafroll- Multiple Finger Lakes growers. neva), Rick Dunst and Mike Vercant affected vineyards were viruliferous and (CLEREL – Portland). This project, natural spread of leafroll viruses was Vigor Effects on Bell Pepper Aromas funded by the Kaplan Fund, is the third determined in a few vineyards. Lea- in Cabernet Franc. Alan Lakso (Hor- year of a trial to select the best nozzle froll viruses delay fruit ripening in wine ticultre – Geneva), Gavin Sacks (Food type for weed control. It is being con- Science – Geneva). To help control ducted at the new Portland Lab vineyard amounts of the methoxypyrazine (MP) and at Westfield. Cooperators: Bob and bell pepper character in Cabernet types, Dawn Betts we are examining shoot vigor on MP levels in Cabernet Franc in experimental Evaluation of a Botrytis and GBM vineyards and commercial Finger Lakes sprayer. Andrew Landers (Entomol- vineyards. Fruit MP values are being ogy – Geneva). A secondary sprayer determined in relation to vigor,but also was developed to apply a botryticide wines are being made from fruit from or insecticide to the fruit zone at the weak, moderate and very vigorous same time as the main canopy sprayer shoots. Cooperators: Fox Run Vine- was applying a fungicide to the canopy. yards, Anthony Road Wine Company, A second tank, pump, manifold and Grape leaf showing symptoms of infection Prejean Winery. focused nozzle system was developed. by leafroll virus.

12 Fi n g e r La k e s V i n e y a r d No t e s 2009 Site Evaluation and Selection. Alan parameters that correlated with MPs in their canopy microclimates. Employing Lakso, Tim Martinson (Horticulture – 2008 were measured. The objective of these tools early in the growing season Geneva), Art DeGaetano (Earth and At- this study is to identify factors that affect can provide growers with the data re- mospheric Science – Ithaca). A continu- MP concentrations in grape berries and quired to guide deliberate, efficient, and ing project is compiling all the available develop management practices to con- cost-effective cultural decisions in sup- digital data in NY on soils, topography, trol MPs to desired levels. Finger Lakes port of their quality goals. In 2008 we elevation, location, and climate in one Cooperators: Hazlitt 1852, Shalestone, demonstrated (and distributed) software place to provide a site on the web that Fox Run, Anthony Road, Anyela’s. Long tools for producing cluster exposure allows users to identify sites and obtain Island Cooperators: Bedell, Raphael. maps (CEMs) and demonstrated the sen- useful information on that site. This is a sory differences among wines produced joint statewide effort with Cornell grape Determining Optimal Cropload for from canopies with different cluster research and extension specialists, Cor- Riesling. Justine Vanden Heuvel, Trent exposure profiles. In 2009 we contin- nell's Northeast Regional Climate Center Preszler (Horticulture – Geneva). While ued ongoing research using these tools and Center for Advanced Computing, optimal cropload varies to some extent to quantify light environment in Riesling the Institute for Application of Geospa- with growing conditions and grape canopies, and to produce light response tial Technologies (IAGT) a GIS center in varieties, in general a well-balanced curves for aroma and flavor compounds Auburn, and industry specialists. vine will have a cropload ratio (yield of interest. These curves will be used divided by pruning weight) between to guide grower practices for determin- 5 and 10. However, cluster thinning ing optimal exposure levels required for is unique among viticultural practices producing fruit with specific flavor and because it presents growers with a com- aroma profiles. Cooperators: Lamor- plex decision in which two seemingly eaux Landing, Sawmill Creek Vineyards, disparate considerations – vine physiol- Wagner Vineyards. ogy and economics – are pitted against one another, with potentially beneficial Canopy Management in Riesling. and deleterious consequences existing Justine Vanden Heuvel, Tim Martinson simultaneously. It is not clear from any (Horticulture – Geneva), Wayne Wil- existing research whether the costs as- cox (Plant Pathology – Geneva), Gavin sociated with cropload adjustment result Sacks (Food Science – Geneva), Todd Map of Seasonal GDDs in Finger Lakes in justifiably significant enhancements Schmit (Applied Economics and Man- from the NY Site Evaluation website, www. to flavor and aroma attributes of the fin- agement – Ithaca). The primary goal of nyvineyardsite.org. ished wine. The objective of this study, this project is to develop, demonstrate, which began in 2008, is to understand and implement canopy management Viticultural and Environmental Impacts the response of Riesling grapevines in practices in NY vineyards that reduce on MPs. Justine Vanden Heuvel, Justin the Finger Lakes to varying levels of fungicide use and improve wine quality, Scheiner (Horticulture – Geneva), Gavin cropload. Specific cropload effects be- resulting in increased economic returns Sacks (Food Science – Geneva). The ing studied are vine health, fruit com- to wine grape growers. Currently, a most notorious contributor to herba- position, wine quality, production costs, minority of growers of Riesling practice ceousness in wines are the methoxy- and consumer willingness-to-pay for canopy management techniques such pyrazines (MP), a class of compounds resulting wines. Results will be merged as shoot thinning and leaf removal. As associated with the green, “bell pepper” under one utility-theoretic behavioral a result, many white wine grape cano- aroma of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and choice framework called the “Cropload pies are dense and shaded, with a high other Bordeaux varieties. The primary Economic Index,” intended to enhance incidence of disease. We are investigat- determinant of MPs in finished wine judgment certainty among growers is the concentration present in grapes seeking to optimize their Riesling yields. at harvest; therefore efforts to control Cooperators: King Ferry Winery. MPs should be focused in the vineyard. Research suggests that MPs in grapes Developing Easy-To-Use Computa- are influenced by complex interaction tional Tools for Vineyard Management. of viticulture and environmental factors Justine Vanden Heuvel, James Myers that are not well understood. Beginning (Horticulture – Geneva). Some of our in 2008 and continuing through 2009, a recent research (led by Ph.D. student mulitvariate study has been conducted Jim Meyers) has focused on the develop- to identify factors that most directly ment of computational tools for assisting affect MPs. This year we worked with growers in making cultural decisions Measuring Riesling yields in a canopy man- six grower-cooperators in the Finger for canopy management. These tools agement trial at White Springs Winery. Lakes, and two in Long Island. A variety enable growers to turn simple field-col- of physiological and environmental lected data into detailed descriptions of Photo: Tim Martinson

Ha r v e s t Is s u e 13 ing the impact of shoot thinning and leaf Management of grape mealybug and Preharvest Fruit Sampling for Veraison removal (timing and intensity) in Riesling grape leafroll disease in New York to Harvest. Tim Martinson (Horticulture on canopy microclimate, fruit composi- vineyards. Greg Loeb, Steve Hesler (En- - Geneva), Ben Gavitt and Becky Nelson tion, disease incidence, and wine qual- tomology – Geneva), Marc Fuchs (Plant (Food Science- Geneva), Bill Wilsey ity. Cooperator: White Springs Winery. Pathology – Geneva), Tim Martinson, and Hans Walter-Peterson (Finger Lakes Bill Wilsey (Horticulture – Geneva). Grape Program), Jodi Creasap-Gee and Field testing a plant-based lure for We initiated a new two-year study this Terry Bates (CLEREL - Portland), Alice capturing female grape berry moth. spring to investigate the effectiveness of Wise and Libby Tarleton (Long Island Greg Loeb, Dong Cha, Steve Hesler, different insecticides in controlling grape Grape Program), Steve Hoying and Charlie Linn, Wendell Roelofs (Entomol- mealybug and the consequences of Stephen McKay (Hudson Valley Fruit ogy – Geneva), Tim Weigle (CLEREL mealybug control on the spread of virus Program). We collected preharvest – Portland). Pheromone-baited traps associated with grapevine leafroll dis- fruit samples from 68 vineyards in four only capture male grape berry moth ease. Cooperator: Hosmer Vineyards. regions of NY from September - Octo- and often, this reveals little about the ber, for publication in nine Veraison to activity of female moths and damage in Impact of Terroir on Finger Lakes Ries- Harvest newsletters. Twenty-eight of the the vineyard. We know from laboratory ling Typicity. Anna Katharine Mansfield, sample sites were from the Finger Lakes. experiments that female Grape berry Becky Nelson (Food Science – Geneva), Cooperators: Multiple Finger Lakes moths use volatiles (organic compounds Justine Vanden Heuvel (Horticulture – growers. released by plant tissue) to locate grape Geneva). Riesling is recognized as the plants for egg laying. Over the past flagship wine in the state of New York Evaluating the impact of a foliar nutri- several years we have identified many of due to its long history and high qual- ent solution on productivity, nutrient the key compounds in the volatile blend ity potential in the state’s wine grow- status and fruit quality of Concord. and in 2009 we tested synthetic lures ing regions. Furthermore, Riesling has Hans Walter-Peterson, Bill Wilsey (Finger based on these compounds to monitor become the core varietal in the Finger Lakes Grape Program). Production female moths in a commercial vineyard Lakes AVA based on its compatibility costs for grape growers have increased in the Finger Lakes and in the Lake Erie with the local environmental condi- dramatically over past couple of years, region. So far the traps are not working tions. Informal sensory assessments of while prices they receive for their grapes well enough to be commercialized, but Riesling have shown differences that have not kept up, making it even more we are still looking at ways to improve are attributed to the terroir of Keuka, critical to make sure that every dollar the technology. Finger Lakes Coopera- Seneca, and Cayuga Lakes. In order to spent on inputs is cost effective. Some tors: Jeff and June Pendleton. Lake Erie scientifically support these assertions, a growers of native varieties have been Cooperators: John and Jay Hardenburg, controlled terroir study with standard- incorporating various foliar nutrients Joel Ramelt. ized wine production, chemical analy- into their vineyard nutrient management ses, and detailed sensory evaluation of practices. This trial is looking at wheth- Testing the Use of a Degree Day Model Riesling commenced during the 2009 er the use of a foliar nutrient material to Time Control of Grape Berry Moth. vintage. Two Riesling blocks were cho- has an impact on productivity, nutrient Greg Loeb, Steve Hesler (Entomol- sen from each of the aforementioned status and fruit quality in Concords. In ogy – Geneva), Tim Weigle (CLEREL Finger Lakes, and a Riesling crop was addition to collecting viticultural data – Portland), Mike Saunders, Jodi Timer produced from each vineyard site with such as vine nutrient status, yield, and (Entomology – Penn State), Rufus Isaacs similar viticultural practices while stan- soluble solids content, we will also (Entomology – Michigan State), Andy dardizing viticultural treatments through- analyze the costs and benefits of these Muza (Penn State Extension – Erie). out the growing season. Data collection materials. This was the trial’s second This is the second year of a cooperative in the vineyard involved measurements project being conducted in commercial of defined terroir components which and research vineyards in the Finger will be evaluated alongside juice/wine Lakes area of NY, Lake Erie Grape Belt, chemistries and sensory results from and the major grape-growing region descriptive analysis with a trained panel of Michigan. Our objective is to test a of white wine consumers. The objective temperature-based phenology model of this study is to define Riesling typicity for predicting the timing of pest control according to each lake microclimate and for grape berry moth compared to the identify the factors of terroir that are cor- current procedure of using calendar date related with specific chemistries and fla- for the second the third generation (risk vors in Finger Lakes Rieslings. Coopera- assessment protocols). Cooperators: tors: Keuka Spring Vineyards, King Ferry Jeff and June Pendleton. Winery, Rooster Hill Vineyards, Sawmill Is Concord productivity and quality im- Creek Vineyards, Wagner Vineyards. proved with annual foliar nutrient applica- tions? We should know after next year.

Continued on page 20

14 Fi n g e r La k e s V i n e y a r d No t e s 2009 GROWING SEASON, continued Some growers who were affected by harvest even got started. clean for most of the duration of harvest, heavy botrytis pressure last year were and even where botrytis infections were also probably worried about a repeat The disease took advantage of condi- able to get established, there was little performance, especially given the con- tions later in the season as well, and evidence of significant sour or bitter rot sistent rains during the bloom to post- started to spread in vineyards that up in the clusters. The relative lack of fruit bloom period. until then had been able to keep the rots enabled growers and winemakers to level of infections down to a dull roar. make decisions to let fruit hang longer Diseases. The primary issues that most While rains were few and far between and try to squeeze out every last bit of growers seemed to struggle with this in late August and September, cool tem- ripening potential this year. year were downy mildew and, to an peratures in the evenings resulted in the extent, botrytis. The other three main formation of morning dews on canopies. Insects. The bug that’s been “bugging” fungal diseases that we work to control The result was some serious infection everybody the past couple of years has – phomopsis, black rot, and powdery periods for downy mildew to estab- been Japanese beetles. Populations of mildew – could all certainly be found lish a new, more significant foothold the insect have been increasing over here and there, but were kept in check in vineyards around the Finger Lakes the past two years, and growers have for the most part. (Figure 9). New infections were easy to become more and more concerned spot in a number of vineyards in early about the impacts that large populations September, even in those that had been of these insects could have on vines. sprayed recently. Within a couple of In 2009, however, populations never weeks, downy infections were fairly well reached the levels that they had gotten established in most vineyards, but only to in previous years, and there were in a few cases did the disease cause the fewer vineyards with significant feeding majority of leaves on vines to drop. damage. In addition, vineyards that had experienced heavy feeding damage from The wet weather at bloom also raised beetles over the last two seasons did not concerns about 2009 being another appear to be impacted in any noticeable banner year for botrytis infections. It way this season. While there is no sure seemed that more growers were proac- answer as to why this happened this tive with spraying for the disease after year, one possible reason could be the bloom in order to reduce the potential low GDD totals, particularly in June and for it to gain an early foothold. Similar July. Whatever the reason was, grow- to last year, however, early infections ers were glad to have one less thing to could be found in some Chardonnay worry about in the vineyard, at least for clusters just prior to veraison. All of one season. these early signs pointed to another difficult year for controlling botrytis. The presence of mites, or at least the Fortunately, the lack of rain that we leaf bronzing symptoms of feeding, in Figure 8. Yellow oilspots indicating downy mildew infections were prevalent in many had starting in late August, along with a few vineyards was a total surprise vineyards this year. somewhat cooler temperatures, made this year. As has been mentioned it more difficult for the disease to really previously, we typically associate mite Given the cool and wet conditions take off. Fruit in most vineyards stayed problems with warm, dry summers, like around bloom and the following several 2007. We’re unclear as to why weeks, it is a testament to growers that this is occurring in years that there were not more disease issues we wouldn’t normally expect this year. But often when the words them. In speaking with the “wet” and “cool” are used to describe a growers where these symp- growing season, downy mildew is likely toms were found, there was no to be part of the conversation (Figure indication of use of any materi- 8). Downy infections started to appear als that would have significant on varieties like Catawba and Niagara impacts on predatory mites. shortly after bloom, but most grow- Also, there is little consistency ers’ vigilance with their spray programs to where the problem shows seemed to keep the disease under up. A vineyard that had mites control during the post-bloom period. in 2008 did not in 2009, and By late July, however, it was becom- vice versa. The problem was ing apparent that a few vineyards were Figure 9. Wet conditions after bloom and cool damp not widespread by any means already losing the battle, and that they mornings later in the season made downy mildew – we only saw it in a couple might end up losing their leaves before control difficult in 2009. of vineyards this year. But the

Ha r v e s t Is s u e 15 fact that we saw any at all makes us wonder about just what is going on.

Crop Results in 2009 The Finger Lakes grape harvest got underway on August 31, with Constella- tion starting to bring in Aurora that day. While this year’s start of harvest was not significantly delayed compared to other years, picking was delayed at least to some extent for most varieties thanks to the cool weather. Niagara harvest for major processors did not start until the end of September, and ripe Concords did not start getting picked until early October. The first freeze of the fall hit vineyards in Branchport and certain areas around Dresden, mostly on the west side of Rt. 14 (Figure 10), causing the loss of a good portion of the func- tional canopy. In a number of cases, growers continued to let fruit hang even after the leaves were frozen in hopes of seeing some more acidity drop from the fruit before harvesting it. Final loads of Figure 11. Cabernet Franc brix and TA (upper and lower left), and Riesling brix and late varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon TA(upper and lower right) in 2009 compared to 2007 and 2008. Data shown is from mul- and Franc were brought in by the end of tiple regions in NY including the Finger Lakes, which followed the same trends. the first week in November for the most Source: Veraison to Harvest Issue #9 part. Tim Martinson

Figure 10. The first freezing temperatures of the season on October 12 crisped up leaves in some vineyards before fruit could be harvested. Fruit chemistry in 2009 reflected what one would expect in a year cooler than normal year – reduced Brix and higher acidity. Brix accumulation was almost 2 weeks behind normal this year, and some wineries reported picking varieties as much as three weeks later than they Figure 12. 2009 berry weight curves for Cabernet Franc (upper left), Riesling (upper right), normally would. While some varieties, Noiret (lower right), and Traminette (lower left), compared with 2007 and 2008. Data like Riesling, were able to reach more shown is from multiple regions in NY, including the Finger Lakes. “normal” sugar levels by harvest in Source: Veraison to Harvest Issue #9 many cases, other varieties like Cab- Tim Martinson

16 Fi n g e r La k e s V i n e y a r d No t e s 2009 ernet Franc did not. Titratable acidity ing season that the region had this year was higher across the board this year, prompted growers to drop fruit in order but winemakers and processors have to try to improve ripening in those clus- said that they are at levels that can be ters that remained. Most vineyads fo- addressed during processing. Concord cused their thinning on red varieties like growers who sell their fruit to processors Cabernet Franc and Pinot noir (Figure with higher sugar standards were sweat- 13), but a few growers also dropped fruit ing a little bit during harvest as well. on varieties like Gewurtztraminer. More Many Concord vineyards never reach than a few growers also reported mak- 16 Brix this year, due to both the cool ing multiple thinning passes during the growing season and the lack of early season, as the weather conditions and season frost damage to reduce the crop. conditions in their vineyards dictated. Figure 14. Many clusters of Cabernet Franc However, there were few if any loads Growers did a lot of “green thinning” of were slow to change color this year. rejected from Finger Lakes growers due fruit towards the end of veraison in or- to inadequate sugar. der to remove clusters that were lagging be made until the wines are released (or in their development. This year, Caber- even later), early comments from wine- Yields tended to be average to a little net France seemed to be especially slow makers are positive with regard to the below average this year. A few varieties, to go through veraison (Figure 14), and quality in this year’s fruit, despite all of such as Aurore and Elvira, seemed to there were similar reports from Long the difficulties that the year presented. perform well for growers this year, but Island and Ontario as well. The lack of bunch rots helped winemak- a number of growers reported that crop ers and growers to make decisions to levels were running a little lower than let fruit hang longer in order to develop they expected. This was particularly flavors and reduce acid as much as true in the case of some vinifera variet- possible. Winemakers have been find- ies, where several growers said that their ing good varietal flavors in most white pre-harvest estimates were running a varieties, including Gewurtztraminer, little higher than what was actually com- Traminette and Riesling, as well as Pinot ing off the vines. This was perhaps due, Noir. Years like this are typically more at least to some extent, to a greater im- of a struggle for reds, but winemakers pact on fruit set in some vineyards than and growers alike continue to make was initially thought. Berry size tended strides in pulling good quality wines out to be slightly larger than average, but of what might be considered poor qual- in most cases not significantly (Figure ity years, so we will have to wait and Figure 13. Pinot Noir clusters thinned in 12). This was in contrast to areas like mid-September. Many growers made more see what will come out of the cellars Long Island and the Lake Erie region, than one thinning pass to reduce crop over the next 1-2 years. which saw much higher than average load. berry weight in Merlot and Concord, Probably one of the best indicators respectively, most likely due to a greater After harvesting higher than normal of the advances that the Finger Lakes impact of low fruit set and causing the yields in a number of vineyards last year, grape and wine industry has made in vines to compensate with larger berries. there was concern that some vineyards recent years is the level of fruit and wine One variety that bucked the trend in with vinifera and premium hybrid variet- quality that can still be achieved even the Finger Lakes this year was Cabernet ies would swing the other way and have in more challenging seasons like 2009. Franc which actually had the lowest significantly lower than average crops This is a testament to both growers and average berry weight in 3 years. Due this year. In most cases, this did not pan winemakers who continue to improve to the major frost damage in the Lake out and most vineyards expressed nor- their practices, learning from previous Erie region this spring and poor ripening mal to even above normal fruitfulness experiences, to make wines that still conditions, National Grape has reported (in terms of clusters per vine) early in the reflect the conditions of the growing that it received its smallest Concord season. Due to both the cool season season but are of good quality. crop since 1977, and its smallest Niagara and the looming surplus of grapes this crop since 1998. Finger Lakes growers year, many growers made one or even Grape Market Situation in 2009 were fortunate to avoid major frost dam- two fruit thinning passes in red vinifera The surplus situation that the Finger age this year, and were able to harvest varieties to bring yields down in order Lakes found itself in last year at harvest native and bulk hybrid varieties with to improve ripening. Yields on white was only magnified this year. Most near normal crops. varieties this year were more in line with small and mid-sized wineries cut back normal expectations. on purchases of grapes this year, and Fruit thinning was employed by most in some cases, did not purchase any growers this year, both for economic While any overall assessment of wines grapes at all. Most wineries were facing and quality reasons. The cool grow- produced from a growing season can’t an excess of inventory this year, caused

Ha r v e s t Is s u e 17 FIELD MEETINGS, continued by a combination of slowing sales due place of the former Finger Lakes Grape years such as this one where market- to the economy and larger purchases Listing (see article in this issue), and was ing grapes will be difficult. Tina Hazlitt of grapes over the past couple of years. heavily used by members of the industry shared some strategies that she is using Growers and wineries alike were aware to try to sell excess fruit and bulk wine to help promote her family’s vineyard of the situation early in the growing this year. Over 3,000 tons of grapes operation as well. The discussion that season, and knew that it likely meant and over 114,000 gallons of bulk wine ensued at the meeting was lively, and lower prices for many varieties at har- were listed for sale on the site this year. demonstrated the importance of this vest, which is what ended up happening Varieties that were listed most often for topic for the industry. Further program- (see article on this year’s grape prices sale included Cayuga White, Riesling, ming in this area will be developed in this issue). Some growers were able and Cabernet Franc. While it is likely over the coming seasons. Participants: to find new markets for small lots of that some fruit was never able to find a Trent Preszler (Bedell Cellars / Cornell fruit in other states, but the difficulty in home, many growers ended up selling grad student), Tina Hazlitt (Sawmill searching for new buyers in other states excess fruit at very low prices again this Creek Vineyards), Hans Walter-Peterson is that most wineries in the East are very year. The best hope for bringing the (FLGP). small, especially compared to the large supply and demand for grapes back into amounts of fruit that some growers had balance is for both wineries and growers available to sell this year. to be able to increase sales and open new markets. A new website, the ‘NY Grape and Wine Classifieds’, was developed by the Finger Lakes Grape Program to take the

Growers heard about canopy manage- ment in Riesling at the Pre-Harvest Field Meeting.

August 24. Pre-Harvest Field Meeting. The final field meeting of the season fea- tured a discussion and walk-through of a canopy management trial in a Riesling block at White Springs Winery. Justine Vanden Heuvel led the discussion of the trial, which is examining the impacts of various amounts and timing of canopy management practices on disease con- trol and aromatic and flavor compounds in the fruit. There was a brief discussion about important factors in collecting pre-harvest fruit samples to make them more accurate, and finally the 2009 Finger Lakes grape price list was handed out and discussed. Participants: Justine Vanden Heuvel (Cornell – Horticulture), Hans Walter-Peterson (FLGP), Derek Wilber (White Springs Winery – host).

18 Fi n g e r La k e s V i n e y a r d No t e s 2009 Ha r v e s t Is s u e 19 RESEARCH BRIEFS, continued year, and we anticipate running it for one more season. Cooperator: Don UPCOMING EVENTS Tones, Clearview Farms. Unified Wine & Grape Symposium Cluster Weight to Improve Crop January 26-29, 2010 Estimation. Hans Walter-Peterson, Bill Sacramento Convention Center Wilsey (Finger Lakes Grape Program), Sacramento, CA Justine Vanden Heuvel (Horticulture – Visit http://unifiedsymposium.org Geneva). Development of a database of for information. average cluster weights can help grow- ers to better estimate their crop early in the season. If reliable data can be given Viticulture 2010 and to growers about average cluster weights 39th Annual Wine Industry Workshop for different varieties at harvest, the only February 17-19, 2009 Rochester Convention Center data growers would need to collect is Rochester, NY average number of clusters per vine, and Information is available at then adjust their estimates based on fruit http://www.viticulture2010.com set and weather conditions when neces- sary. We started collecting clusters of ten native, hybrid and vinifera varieties Wineries Unlimited in mid-July and continued collection March 9-12, 2010 through harvest. We should begin to Valley Forge Convention Center have reliable cluster weight data for King of Prussia, PA growers to use within 3-4 more years. Visit http:// wineriesunlimited.vwm-online.com for information. Cooperators: Multiple Finger Lakes growers.

Finger Lakes Grape Program Cornell Cooperative Extension 417 Liberty Street Penn Yan, New York 14527

Helping You Put Knowledge to Work Cornell Cooperative Extension provides equal program and employment oppor- tunities. NYS College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, NYS College of Human Ecology, and NYS College of Veterinary Medicine at Cornell University, Coop- erative Extension associations, county governing bodies, and U.S. Department of Agriculture, cooperating.

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