University of Kentucky UKnowledge European History History 1984 Ford, A Village in the West Highlands of Scotland: A Case Study of Repopulation and Social Change in a Small Community John B. Stephenson University of Kentucky Click here to let us know how access to this document benefits ou.y Thanks to the University of Kentucky Libraries and the University Press of Kentucky, this book is freely available to current faculty, students, and staff at the University of Kentucky. Find other University of Kentucky Books at uknowledge.uky.edu/upk. For more information, please contact UKnowledge at [email protected]. Recommended Citation Stephenson, John B., "Ford, A Village in the West Highlands of Scotland: A Case Study of Repopulation and Social Change in a Small Community" (1984). European History. 30. https://uknowledge.uky.edu/upk_european_history/30 FORD: A VILLAGE IN THE WEST HIGHLANDS OF SCOTLAND FORD A VILLAGE IN THE WEST HIGHLANDS OF SCOTLAND A Case Study of Repopulation and Social Change in a Small Community John B. Stephenson with the assistance ofSheena Carmichael The University Press of Kentucky Published in the United States by the University Press of Kentucky Scholarly publisher for the Commonwealth serving Bellarmine College, Berea College, Centre College of Kentucky, Eastern Kentucky University, The Filson Club, Georgetown College, Kentucky Historical Society, Kentucky State University, Morehead State University, Murray State University, Northern Kentucky University, Transylvania University, University of Kentucky, University of Louisville, and Western Kentucky University. Editorial and Sales Offices: Lexington, Kentucky 40506-0024 © Copyright John B Stephenson 1984 Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data Stephenson, John B., 1937- 1. Ford (Highland Region, Scotland)—Social conditions. 2. Highland Region (Scotland)—Rural conditions. 3. Ford (Highland Region, (Scotland)—Population. 4. Villages- Scotland—Highland Region—Case Studies. I. Title. HN398.F67S83 1984 307.7'62'094115 83-24572 ISBN 0-8131-1507-8 Printed in Great Britain Contents Acknowledgements 7 List of Illustrations 9 Preface 11 1 Introduction 15 2 The Setting: Ford and the Mid-Argyll District 24 3 The Historical Setting 39 4 Ford Today: the Structures of Social Life 80 5 Ford Today: Depopulation and Repopulation 107 6 Ford Tomorrow: Survival, Continuity, and Change 139 Appendix 168 Acknowledgements So many people have helped with this book that another volume would be required to thank them all adequately. The people of Ford are, of course, owed the greatest debt because of their interest, generosity, and patience in sharing their accustomed realities with an unforgiveably naive stranger. Sheena Carmichael is acknow- ledged on the title page for her special role in providing books, letters, photographs, and other historical materials, in accompanying me on brief but important excursions into the Mid-Argyll area, in allowing me to test half-formed impressions and rewarding me with the most kindly of corrections and admonitions, and in reading the manuscript carefully several times. Perhaps as important as all this practical assistance is the fact that Sheena imparted to me her unbounded affection for the Mid-Argyll district. Special thanks are also due David Murray, Sr., and to David and Amy Murray, who, along with Sheena Carmichael, shared what they had and without limit what they knew. And to Maimie and Dempster and Eddie and Margaret and Hamish and Jean, Alec MacDougall and Major William Warde-Aldam and all the rest— although I cannot name all of them here, I hope they will feel my gratitude. I am indebted greatly to Robin Malcolm of Poltalloch, who set me straight on many matters dealing with agriculture, local government, family history, Scottish society and culture, and local lore. I still have much to learn, but the task is made easier thanks to his good-natured tutelage. Ronald Baird, Bridge of Allan, was likewise most generous in his explanations of current agricultural practices, policies, and problems. Roy Campbell, Murdo MacDonald and especially the late Eric Cregeen were indispensable sources of advice and information regarding West Highland history. In Stirling, Dorothy and Donald Anderson were among those who simply made life possible for us during this stay in Scotland, quite beyond the contribution of their frank critiques and appraisals as the manuscript took shape. Alison Bowes is also owed thanks for her encouragements. I was more than fortunate that Alex Coupar, Dundee, a family friend of Sheena Carmichael, was able to furnish photographs for the book. His excellent work will be found between pages 80 and 81. (The others are my own.) Thanks go to my wife, Jane Ellen, and to Francene Nash, my staff assistant in Kentucky, for preparation of the manuscript, and to my daughter, Rebecca, for careful proof-reading. This study was made possible through a Senior Research Fellowship from the Fulbright Programme on a leave supported by the University of Kentucky and its Research Committee. Finally, I wish to thank Sir Kenneth Alexander, Principal of the University of Stirling and former Chairman of the Highlands and Islands Development Board, for his willing help throughout the entire project. My characterization of Ford, its past and future, would be considerably impoverished without the help of all those acknow- ledged here. The final result is my own, however, and I must take full responsibility for its errors and shortcomings. John B. Stephenson Lexington List of Illustrations Between pages 80 and 81 1 The Village of Ford, 1983, viewed from near the burial island on Ederline Estate. (JBS) 2 Ford Post Office, painted by A. Scott Rankin for publication in Patrick Gillies' Netherlorn, Argyllshire, and Its Neighbourhood, published in 1909. (AC) 3 Ford Post Office as it appeared in 1983. (JBS) 4 Maimie Cameron, the Postmistress, one of seven native-born residents of Ford, and her husband, Dempster, retired gamekeeper for the Forestry Commission. (AC) 5 The village of Ford as it appeared on a postcard around 1910. (AC) 6 Ford, 1982. (AC) 7 Davie Murray pumping petrol for Alasdair Carmichael next to Ford Hotel, around 1970. The nearest petrol today is atKilmartin, 7>Vi miles away. (AC) 8 David, Amy, and Ruaridh, with Davie Murray own and operate the Ford Hotel. (AC) 9 Alex MacDougall's wedding, 30 June 1932. Alex was born in 1895. The picture was taken on Cnoc an Ath, 'The Hillock at the Ford', an ancient burial mound next to the original ford and an old cattle stance. (AC) 10 Ford farmers and shepherds at a cattle sale in Oban, 1966. Although it has declined somewhat, hill-farming is still an im- portant part of the village economy. (AC) 11 Members of the Ford Gun Club in 1880, (AC) 12 Members of the Ford Gun Club in 1980. (AC) 13 Alex MacDougall practising for an upcoming ploughing match with his Clydesdales at Creaganterve Farm in 1935. (He won.) With him is the late Archie Keith. (AC) 14 Ford Bay of Loch Awe. Once the site of the pier used by loch steamers putting into Ford, Ford Bay is now used mainly by anglers. (AC) 15 Cnoc an Ath, the burial mound across from the Ford Hotel. Unexcavated and unmarked, its significance is nonetheless known and respected by villagers. (JBS) 16 Tree-planting in Inverliever Forest, about 1964. Donald MacCallum, brother to the Postmistress, is on the left. Ronnie Mathieson and Robert Gillies are in the background. The Forestry Commission still provides work for a number of men in the village, as does private forestry. (AC) 17 Houses in 'The Row'. All but the rightmost house have been built since the late 1960s and are occupied by incomers. (JBS) 18 Known as the Crown House or the Change-House, this is one of the oldest structures in Ford. Tired horses were changed for fresh ones in the days when the drove road was used heavily. John Keats is said to have stayed the night here while on a walking tour of the West Highlands. (JBS) 19 This old manor house at Ederline Estate is said to have been built in the eighteenth century. It is occupied by the estate gamekeeper; the estate owner lives in a modern house built in the 1960s. (JBS) 20 Duntrune Castle, home of Robin Malcolm, 19th Laird of Poltalloch. The foundations of the castle are Norman, dating from the twelfth century. (JBS) 21 Creaganterve Farm, with an ancient standing stone near the original Glennan Farm site in the foreground. (JBS) 22 Schoolhouse at Ford, with the school attached at the rear. It has been used as a private residence since the school closed in the 1970s. (JBS) 23 Mr MacKinnon with sheep on Torran Mor Farm. (AC) Photographs marked (AC) by Alex Coupar and those marked (JBS) by the author. Preface The case for welcoming the publication of a new book dealing with the Highlands and Highland problems is certainly not that such books are rare events. The case for welcoming this book is that the quality of perception and understanding it brings to the ex- amination of the social life of a small Highland community is quite exceptional when measured against the standards achieved in most of such studies. This quality has been achieved firstly by con- centrating on a small and reasonably distinct community, secondly by bringing to the work a personality and related attitudes which minimise the risk that what is related has been much influenced by the very presence of a researcher, thirdly by the experience of the author in comparative studies in another remote area of a developed nation and fourthly by the modesty and caution shown by the author in making his points and in drawing conclusions. The book would be difficult to classify, and this is a strength. Social history, sociology, anthropology, antiquarianism, rural development? All approaches and certainly all aspects are to be found here.