CHEERIO, SPRING 2013 COLLECTIONS LONDON GILES, MULBERRY, MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF AND MORE. PAGE 4 OPEN RANGE WRANGLER OPENS FIRST FREESTANDING STORE IN EUROPE. PAGE 8

EXCLUSIVE Iconix in the Hunt To Buy HMX Group

By VICKI M. YOUNG

NEW YORK — HMX Group is fielding interest from potential buyers — and Iconix Brand Group Inc. is among the strongest suitors. WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2012 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY This isn’t the fi rst time Iconix has shown interest in the fi nancially troubled men’s wear company, according WWD to market sources. But its interest is said to have “in- tensifi ed” in recent weeks, with the fi rm now seeking partners it can work with to complete a deal. Iconix is a brand-management company and would need a partner or partners to manage the operations of HMX. Sources said that in any Iconix-led transaction, the company and its partners would share HMX’s equity, although Iconix would most likely own the trademarks. The new owners would continue to operate all of HMX’s current brands, which include Hart Schaffner Marx, Hickey Freeman, Bobby Jones and Coppley. A spokeswoman for Iconix declined comment Wednesday. Doug Williams, chief executive offi cer of HMX, said, “The company doesn’t speculate on market rumors. SKNL, management and its advisers are completely fo- cused on ensuring the future of HMX and its brands.” HMX’s history originated from the now-defunct Hartmarx Corp., which was acquired out of bank- ruptcy by Indian fi rm S. Kumars Nationwide Ltd. in August 2009 and renamed HMX. London-based Emerisque Brands holds a minority stake in HMX. While Williams and Joseph Abboud, president and chief creative offi cer of HMX, have been working to turn the group around, the men’s wear fi rm has had issues this year regarding its fi nancial structure. In August, the company closed on a new fi nancing facil- ity with Salus Capital Partners. The new one replaced the facility HMX had with its former lending group, led by Wells Fargo and J.P. Morgan. Approval of the new facility was fi nalized in June Beauty but hit a roadblock due to a required cash infusion from SKNL that never arrived. The initial glitch And SEE PAGE 12 Hedi’s New YSL Look The Bus By MILES SOCHA If there’s any city where the — To catch a glimpse of Hedi Slimane’s latest and largest handiwork for Yves Saint Laurent to date, clothes seem as good on the there’s no need to wait for his runway show here on ® streets — and at times even Oct. 1 — but you’ll have to hop a plane to Shanghai. THEY ARE WEARING better — than those on the On Tuesday, YSL is slated to open a 3,200-square- foot Saint Laurent Paris boutique in the Reel runways, it’s London. The looks around town Department Store on Nanjing Road West. It’s the during the recent collections only reinforced that, fi rst unit in the world to refl ect a new fl oor-to-ceiling like the one worn here, mixing structure and black store concept developed by Slimane, who is applying a 360-degree makeover to the mythic fashion house. with a breezy girly shape in a pretty print. For more The second Slimane-designed unit, spanning 5,400 on the city’s street fashion, see page 10. square feet, is slated to open in in November — an enlarged and revamped store at 52 Kurfürstendamm. A 9,600-square-foot, two-level fl agship at 53 Avenue Montaigne here is slated for a February opening. The retail developments were disclosed in an ex- clusive interview with YSL president and chief ex- ecutive offi cer Paul Deneve. He described an ambi- tious growth strategy designed to seize on the “new creative brand vision” of Slimane and catapult YSL, owned by retail-to-luxury conglomerate PPR, to match the scale of its French couture peers Chanel and Christian Dior. “That level of business is what we want to build. That’s the potential I would like to develop,” Deneve said, stressing that everyone from the Pinault family, PPR’s reference shareholder, to the rank and fi le at YSL are united behind that objective. “We’re pre- paring to revolutionize fashion again, as Mr. Saint Laurent did in the Sixties.” PHOTO BY KUBA DABROWSKI SEE PAGE 12

2 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2012 WWD.COM exclusive

the Briefing Box

Disney Shops Headed for Penney’s in Today’s WWd stores. The Penney’s deal is the latest one aimed By DaviD Moin at raising the profile of Disney products. The en- ’’ tertainment company has linked with Barneys new J.C. Penney will oPen Disney children’s bou- york for the retailer’s holiday campaign, “electric Freddie Fox tiques in at least 520 stores fall, advancing the Holiday,” which features a short film starring and Tamzin plan to transform its selling floors from an open sea of Disney characters. in addition, Disney worked with Merchant racks to being totally merchandised by shops-in-shop. a group of British fashion designers to create outfits at the Disney products are widely distributed to other re- for Minnie Mouse, which were exhibited this week Mulberry tailers such as Macy’s, wal-Mart and Kohl’s. However, in london to raise funds for the British Fashion show. those are licensed products whereas the products to Council/Bazaar Fashion arts Foundation charity. be sold at Penney’s will be designed and sourced by Penney’s is also expected to continue selling li- Disney Consumer Products exclusively for Penney’s, censed Disney products in other departments such as well as Disney stores and theme parks. as tweens, boys and girls. “Joe Fresh was a big deal. Disney is as big of a The Disney deal bolsters Penney’s efforts to re- deal,” liz Sweney, J.C. Penney Co. inc.’s chief mer- vamp its children’s department for back-to-school chant, said in an exclusive interview Tuesday. next year and could serve as a magnet to attract other The Disney deal gives Penney’s an edge on the com- brands, just like the Joe Fresh announcement in July. im Jenkins t petition by providing exclusive and potentially higher- Children’s wear at Penney’s will include shops for quality Disney branded Carter’s, Giggle (selling products and some products under its own Photo by unique interactive ele- label and other suppli- ments, including a video The merchandise and the ers) and Disney. Cynthia HMX Group is fielding interest from potential buyers — and wall in the back of the Rowley and Tori Spelling Iconix Brand Group is among the strongest suitors. PAGE 1 shops, which Penney’s experience will be unique to have exclusive collections is calling a mini-theater. and will be merchandised Yves Saint Laurent is slated to open a 3,200-square-foot The wall could be pro- J.C. Penney, Disney Stores to stand out, but without Saint Laurent Paris boutique Tuesday in the Reel Department grammed with Disney their own shops. Store on Nanjing Road West in Shanghai. PAGE 1 trailers, cartoons or Today at a mock-up shorts. The shops could and Disney theme parks. inside a store in Dallas, J.C. Penney will open Disney children’s boutiques inside at also at times be popu- Penney’s will unveil to least 520 stores next fall. PAGE 2 lated by associates in cos- It’s a very different situation retail analysts shops-in- tumes of Disney charac- shop for Disney, Haggar, IBM’s Birth of a Trend project is mining social media to ters to hype new products from dealing with licenses. Dockers, Carter’s and find the next big thing. PAGE 5 and films. Giggle, in addition to Zhang Na of Fake Natoo represents what is good and fresh The Disney shops — Liz Sweney, j.c. penney co. inc. those previously shown will range in size from in July for Joe Fresh, about young Chinese designers. PAGE 5 750 to 1,100 square feet levi’s, the jcp private and, according to Sweney, will command prominent brand, liz Claiborne, izod, arizona and i Jeans by Chaiken, the San Francisco-based sportswear brand, is space. Costumes, plush toys, figurines, footwear, Buffalo. By the end of 2013, Penney’s expects to putting the pieces together to become a factor again in sleepwear, underwear, backpacks, lunch totes and have 40 unique shops-in-shop on its selling floors. the fast-growing contemporary market. PAGE 5 apparel for boys, girls and babies will be in the as- Cosabella amore, Cosmopolitan, Maidenform, vanity sortment, which will be composed of 60 percent Fair and arizona Kids are among the labels also be A preview of Paris Fashion Week, with designers to softlines and 40 percent hard goods. The products, putting up shops. Ultimately, Penney’s expects to watch and things to do while in the City of Light. PAGE 6 also to be sold on jcp.com, will feature Disney char- have 100 shops-in-shop, some with multiple brands. acters such as Mickey and Minnie Mouse and Goofy, Penney’s has long sold Disney licensed products, Pomellato is trying its hand at silver and will toast its and characters from Disney movies like “Snow but when Ron Johnson became Penney’s chief execu- premiere silver collection, Pomellato 67, on Thursday with white,” “Cinderella” and “Toy Story.” tive officer about a year ago, “we started talking about an event during Milan Fashion Week. PAGE 8 “The merchandise and the experience will be a larger Disney brand presence,” said Bruce Morrison, unique to J.C. Penney, Disney Stores and Disney senior vice president of retail sales, Disney Consumer Wrangler Jeans has opened a store in Leipzig, , theme parks,” said Sweney. “it’s a very different Products. “we are really intrigued by the shop-in-shop the first of what it expects to be a network of monobrand situation from dealing with licenses.” concept Penney’s’’ is pushing. we’ve always had a strong stores in Europe. PAGE 8 For Disney, which has about 200 stores in the licensed business at Penney’s. we fully expect to con- U.S., it’s a chance to ramp up volume quickly with- tinue that in a lot of categories outside the shop-in- Condé Nast France has revealed plans to launch a French out the challenging task of opening additional shop. it’s a bit of new business model for us.” edition of Vanity Fair in 2013. PAGE 9

The vintage fabric used to make the vibrant blue Barbara Tfank dress Michelle Obama wore on the campaign trial Monday dates back decades. PAGE 11 Burlington Coat to Open in Union Square new yoRK — after 40 years of operating stores, sixth levels of the building, though Kingsbury said Beth Ditto will perform live at the Versus show to be held Burlington Coat Factory this Friday finally gets not having the ground floor for shopping won’t be on Friday during Milan Fashion Week. PAGE 11 its “flagship.” a handicap. “Based on the traffic in that area, this The expansion-minded off-price retailer will shouldn’t be an issue. There’s dominant signage,” Versace today unveils its new e-commerce site, which open a three-level, 92,000-square-foot store at 4 visible from the street as well as in subways nearby. has been described as fully mirroring the spirit of creative Union Square South, by 14th Street and University The store’s navigation is easier than others in the director Donatella Versace. PAGE 12 Place, in a former Filene’s Basement site. “we’re chain since it displays new way-finding signs. looking at this store as our overall flagship,” Tom The flagship will employ more than 500 area on WWD.CoM Kingsbury, president and chief executive officer, residents and stage a week of activities to promote told wwD in an interview Tuesday. the opening, including distributing FRONT ROW AT MULBERRY: Kate Moss, Alexa Chung it fits the flagship criteria for several complimentary eco-totes, coffee, sav- and Lana Del Rey sat front row at the brand’s spring show. reasons, according to Kingsbury. First, ings certificates and charity donations. For more photos, see WWD.com/runway. the Union Square store will be a top- Burlington’s only other Manhattan volume location in the 470-unit chain store is located on Sixth avenue be- due to the area’s heavy pedestrian traf- tween 22nd and 23rd Streets. To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is fic, higher percentage of better and best Burlington Coat, which was acquired [email protected], using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. prices and contemporary styles, and for $2.06 billion and taken private by COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. greater square footage compared to Bain Capital Partners in 2006, has re- VOLUME 204, NO. 60. WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues other Burlington Coat units, which av- cently been performing better. The in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance erage 80,000 square feet and are more chain could eclipse the $4 billion mark Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: than twice the size of most off-price Tom this year, compared to last year’s $3.85 S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Kingsbury Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, competitors. Kingsbury declined to proj- billion in volume. it’s been capitalizing and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver ect a volume on the flagship. on the recent fallout in the sector, with Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North “we have a very diverse population that shops Syms, Filene’s Basement and Daffy’s announcing liq- Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. in our stores overall, but our intention is to make uidations in 2011 and 2012. Burlington Coat plans to Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or sure every store is a little different and empha- open 20 stores a year over the foreseeable future. inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine size the treasure hunt,” Kingsbury said. Therefore, “we feel very good about the off-price model,” is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. Union Square will emphasize categories that cater Kingsbury said. “There’s a pretty nice flow of prod- You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt to Burlington’s “core” female consumer, including uct all the time. availability is good.” of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request sportswear, dresses, coats, accessories and shoes. The roots of Burlington Coat Factory warehouse for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at Kingsbury also cited the flagship’s enhanced Corp. date back to 1924, when the company www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that store design. “The interior of the store reflects all launched as a wholesaler of ladies’ coats and junior we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at of our new stores overall. we’ve integrated new ma- suits. in 1972, Burlington opened its first outlet in P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED terials into the presentation, gone mostly to noncar- Burlington, n.J. Coats were the primary offering, ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER peted selling floors, the lights are brighter, and it’s but over time the concept evolved to offer men’s UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR a much more refreshing look overall.” and women’s suits, sportswear, shoes, accessories, DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A Burlington Coat will occupy the fourth, fifth and linens and baby merchandise. — D.M. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

w19a002a;13.indd 2 9/18/12 7:52 PM 09182012195328

4 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2012

Giles: “I wanted something embellished with flowers, one LONDON COLLECTIONS graphic and really strong, the color of a yellow highlighter but not romantic, and not pen, and a black circle skirt aggressive,” said Giles Deacon coated with a thin film of after his show. “A good smashed plastic. A gold, hand-crocheted window can be nice — it has waffle-knit dress was among the some wonderful refractional standouts. Overall, it was pure qualities.” The designer took his joy: assured, focused, and fresh, smashed-glass motif and turned with clothes that will appeal to Spring 2013 it into a print for long and short a wide variety of women. dresses, some of which had origamilike folds at the top. This Roksanda Ilincic: The contrasting THE LONDON SHOWS CLOSED WITH NODS TO THE SEVENTIES dramatic, highly embellished aesthetic languages of artists AND NINETIES, PASTELS AND NEONS, AND PRINTS INSPIRED BY collection also featured short Josef Albers and Niki de Saint dresses with delicate layers of Phalle were the foundation upon EVERYTHING FROM BROKEN GLASS TO BLOOMING FLOWERS. printed and pleated net, ostrich- which Roksanda Ilincic built feather tufts and beading. Long her spring collection. Albers’ gowns were made from tiers of luscious palette colored panels Roksanda Ilincic Thomas Tait JW Anderson double duchesse satin laser- on graphic close-to-the body cut into a similar shattered dresses, while de Saint Phalle’s pattern, some worn with stiff net free-spirited way of life inspired skirts underneath, while others the mood of the show. Set to a were adorned with blue crystal soundtrack of bossa nova beats, embroidery, lending a whiff of the models came out in looks modern-day Cinderella. that channeled the Seventies, especially the rust drop-waist Mulberry: You’re never fully shirt dress with a padded bow at dressed without a smile — or its collar and contrasting black an ice lolly. Just ask Emma Hill, cuffs. Also outstanding was a Mulberry’s creative director, pair of citrus high-waist pants whose lighthearted collection was that came with a tucked-in dusty filled with sugary pastels (one rose blouse and a white cardigan mint tweed coat was a standout), hanging from the shoulders. florals and a little gecko print scrambling over long dresses with Thomas Tait: In this assured ruffles around the sleeves. collection, Thomas Tait tapped “It’s a happy brand!” Hill into a Space Age aesthetic but declared after the show, adding gave the look a contemporary that she took her original edge. The show was staged in from pastel ice lollies — ice a gritty, graffiti-emblazoned pops, for those who don’t live in skate park and models walked the U.K. — English gardens and out in precisely cut silk shorts even the tropics. or pleated skirts paired with That translated into Sixties- tank tops or skinny striped polo inspired flower prints and necks. Coats were a standout, appliqués for both daywear including cocoon shapes in Mulberry and eveningwear. Hill also shades of lime green and electric approached accessories with blue. There were also cool biker a light touch, creating gold jackets in black or white leather, flower-shaped hardware for and sharp leather car coats. This the buttons on leather coats outing cemented Tait’s status and the buckles on bags, which as a London designer who’s came in sweet shades of mint, developing a singular vision. tangerine and blush. Richard Nicoll: Richard Nicoll Meadham Kirchhoff: Dubbed “A returned to the runway with Cautionary Tale,” designers a collection that focused on Edward Meadham and clean, athletic-inspired designs. Benjamin Kirchhoff set off The lineup ran from sporty on another madcap outing pieces, such as zippered parkas inspired this time by 18th- in white or gray nylon and century lingerie and Victorian blouson jackets in leather or attire, bringing back memories jersey, to dressier looks that of Eighties Christian Lacroix. played with the athletic theme, The collection was packed with such as a white minidress with corsetry, ruffles, embroidery, mesh panels inset at the neck and satin bows cascading and skirt. The designer worked down silk brocade boots. Little evening pieces in technical fitted jackets with peaked fabrics, as in an electric shoulders were paired with blue nylon T-shirt dress with Meadham pannier miniskirts, while sheer billowing nylon trains. While Giles Kirchhoff overcoats that looked more the collection didn’t break new like saucy dressing gowns ground, Nicoll’s creations had a were paired with matching polished, commercial appeal. Richard Simone fitted trousers. Only a few JW Anderson: Nicoll Rocha denim pieces and Minnie This was the most Mouse T-shirts grounded this cohesive and accessible outing extravagant Marie-Antoinette- yet from JW Anderson — one in-the-street collection. of London’s brightest new stars and a hot show ticket this week. Simone Rocha: “I was reminded There was a strict femininity of my own youth, and of school at play here: The opening look uniforms,” said Simone Rocha was a white, strapless bandeau of her inspirations for a top that had wide pleats falling youthful show of sweet dresses above a bare midriff. It was with a sophisticated, technical teamed with a pair of gray shorts edge. The designer (whose hemmed with a white ruffle. father is John Rocha) is rapidly Ruffles ran throughout the making a name for herself collection and, in some cases, in London with thoughtful came cascading from under collections that reflect the arm to fall at the hip on her love of mixing fabrics sleeveless knits. The designer’s and techniques — to wit, a commitment to experimental sleeveless dress with a full skirt fabrics was most successful in a FOR MORE was made from embellished white and blue trouser suit that COVERAGE, SEE plastic. Simple dresses were looked to be made of Neoprene shown in white cotton eyelet but was, in fact, screen-printed WWD.com/ with long, sheer sleeves and cotton sponges. His prints looked

runway. GIANNONI GIOVANNI white bouclé with sheer like painterly daubs of color embroidered panels placed on white backgrounds, and here and there. Color came in appeared on pajamalike trouser

PHOTOS BY the form of organza suits and in a full skirt. WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2012 5 WWD.COM IBM Taps Social Media to Root Out Trends Chaiken Brand Rebuilds What this trend is showing is that there are CHAIKEN, the San Francisco- to San Francisco in April. A win- By EVAN CLARK people out there who have a different outlook based sportswear brand, is ner of the Ecco Domani Fashion on life, particularly around the relationship be- putting the pieces together to Foundation Award, Chow has IS STEAMPUNK THE NEXT CYCLE CHIC? tween how they transport themselves and their become a factor again in the fast- worked for Poleci, Perry Ellis The sci-fi subgenre that obsesses over ornate goods around cities.” growing contemporary market. International, Esprit, Tommy Hilfiger, steam-driven creations and the urban practice The trend then jumped to Portland, Ore., and The brand, which was re- Emilio Pucci and Lilly Pulitzer, in ad- of dressing well to bicycle share very little DNA, Outlier, in New York, introduced its “bike-to- launched in 2010 as Chaiken and dition to having his own line. but both are examples of slow-moving trends boardroom” pants. London’s Tweed Run start- Capone and has since gone back “He’s helping us to move [the that offer opportunities for brands to connect ed on Savile Row in 2009, and by 2010, people to the simpler Chaiken, is building brand] forward,” said Chaiken. with very specific consumer groups. were talking about chic cycling from to on several fronts. The company His influence will be felt in the Tapping into such trends has always been a Shanghai, Rio de Janeiro to City. Then relaunched its Web site, designed spring collection. The line is pro- matter of getting on the right bandwagon before it came the Missoni for Target bicycle for $399 and by Unltd.; is begin- duced in San Francisco, New gets rolling — earning street cred for being current the Bianchi by Gucci bike for $14,000. ning to show major specialty York, Peru and China. and catching enough of the action to make some- “When you start to see commercial business- stores the collection, and has For spring, Paul Maffi pho- thing of it. But trends and memes have become es get involved, that’s another good indicator hired Jeffrey Chow as design tographed Chaiken’s look more promiscuous with blogs, message boards that the trend is…amplifying,” Davis said. director. Other moves in the book for its retail custom- and social networks facilitating a Early on, trends often find past year and a half were ers and clients. Styled by continuous global conversation on their most fertile ground in com- the naming of a president, Vanessa Traina, the book everything, all at once. munities that are connected to David Lazar, who is based will be published in print the arts or design, or favor alter- in San Francisco, and the and digital forms. EXCLUSIVE native lifestyles. So trends tend to hiring of Kim Vernon, pres- Chaiken, which has al- jump between the likes of not just ident and chief executive ways been known for its Berlin, Paris, New York, Sydney officer of Vernon Co., as a great-fitting pants, is round- The question for brands look- and Shanghai, but also Portland business consultant. ing out the line with knits, ing to tap into trends has be- or Tallinn, the capital of Estonia, “Since David [Lazar] skirts, sweaters and dresses. come, “How to get there before which Davis described as “one of has come aboard, we’ve “It’s not for a girly girl,” said the Twitter hashtag?” the most digitally connected cities done a lot of refining,” Chaiken. “It’s sport inspired.” IBM has a techie answer. in the world.” said creative director Julie Spring’s wholesale prices The company’s “Birth of a Trends are combining now, Chaiken, who cofounded the range from $75 to $400. Trend” project has developed an tripping over each other, said brand in 1994. For fall, Chaiken’s line algorithm that sifts through so- Cycling Davis, noting brands have to par- Lazar joined the company is available at Knit Wit in cial media and other sites to find chic. ticipate in the right way, one that in January 2011, having previ- ; Wendy Foster “weak signals” — things that only makes sense for the trend. ously been founder and ceo of in Santa Barbara, Calif.; The a few people are talking about “Spotting the trend is one thing, Twenty, president of Three Store in Mill Valley, Calif., but register as genuinely new and have the poten- deciding what to do about it as a big company is Dots and vice president and Jamie Lyn in Beverly tial to hit the big time. another thing altogether,” he said. “There’s a lot of of merchandising, men’s, Hills. “The goal for spring The project looks for telling juxtapositions inertia in big companies.” at Express. Chaiken’s long- 2013 is to take it to the in online commentary, as well as signs of people Davis said the Levi’s brand has been smart Since the relaunch, sleeve shirt, cycle next level,” said Vernon. struggling to describe something they’ve never about Cycle Chic and how it tapped into the Chaiken said they’ve top and pant. Chaiken noted that seen before, said Trevor Davis, consumer prod- trend, launching the cyclist-friendly Commuter taken stock of what was the redesigned Web site, ucts expert with IBM’s Global Business Services. by Levi’s jeans with very targeted marketing. working and what wasn’t and chaikenclothing.com, will add Davis’ radar started picking up hints in Research by IBM shows that Steampunk, moved into a new space at 785 e-commerce in the fourth quar- 2006 of a more fashionable kind of bicycling, which has been around since at least the early Market Street in San Francisco, ter. They’ve also redone their with old-school bikes and riders dressed to the Nineties, is still boiling just below the surface. and opened a showroom in New Facebook page and their Tumblr nines. Mikael Colville-Andersen — a sort of pa- Rihanna arrived at the Paralympics closing York at 230 West 39th Street. account is active. The brand also tient zero for the chic cycling phenomenon — ceremony this month on a Steampunk pirate Chaiken, which has previ- has a YouTube channel. started his Cycle Chic blog in Copenhagen the ship, and, Davis said, the social-media world lit ously shown at Fashion Coterie, “I’m really proud of what

following year. up, with devotees seeing Steampunk as having MAFFI decided this time to show at Julie has done in the past 10 “A lot of people gathered around that site,” arrived and the uninitiated trying to understand Designers & Agents, which runs months. A fantastic foundation is Davis said. “What we’ve done is track, over a what they were seeing. PAUL through Thursday. being laid to create a great con- period of years, how the sentiment around the “I think Steampunk is going through some Hiring Chow was a key move temporary brand,” said Vernon. — LISA LOCKWOOD thing called Cycle Chic has changed and grown. kind of birth in the mainstream,” Davis said. PHOTO BY for the brand. The designer moved

ChinaFile A look be the end of it — a very nice from marketing idea. But Zhang con- Fake tinued to make RCB another Natoo. line for her studio. She in fact Zhang Na, China’s Gen-X Designer contributes 10 percent of the revenue from RCB to a training COMPARED TO other fashion to gain some experience and then tenants, and force them to ac- center for unemployed women. designers in China, Zhang Na of start her own label. She did exact- cept advertising above their As her business grows and Fake Natoo is very low-key. She ly that, designing for a local brand store signs. Zhang gave up trying her original plans as a fashion is not media shy, but so far, she for three years as its chief design- to reason with her landlord. She designer continue to come true, has not attracted any media at- er before going off on her own. just closed the shop. Zhang finds herself in a differ- tention. To me, she represents She said that “2007 was the right “In hindsight, it was prob- ent mood than when she first what is good and fresh about time, Changle Road was happen- ably a good thing. Not having started. “When I first graduated, young Chinese designers. ing in Shanghai, all the indepen- the shop allowed me to focus on I had plans,” she said. “I was Zhang Na was born in 1981, a dent designers had opened their my design,” she said. “ Yo u really going to go places, I wanted to member of China’s Generation X, boutiques there. And I was ready.” need a partner to handle retail show everyone what I can do. It which is often characterized by Zhang registered her brand if you want to open boutiques.” was all about me. But now I think the Chinese media Natoo in April Just when she had reconciled I should be more contemplative, as the “lost gen- ChinaFile 2008 and opened herself to losing the lease for the more grateful. I didn’t get here all eration.” She is her own shop on boutique, she had another nasty by myself. I should be thankful.” from Beijing, her Changle Road. surprise in early 2011. The reply Fake Natoo’s business is parents are both “I believe from her trademark application growing at 50 percent a year. artists, and she clothes are about finally came back after nearly Zhang has already turned down majored in art at a the people who three years. Apparently, her several interested investors. “I university in Xian, wear them,” she trademark, Natoo, was already don’t really need money right a major city in cen- said. “I wanted registered by a Tianjin company. now,” she said. “However, some tral China. After to make easygo- She tried to buy back the trade- expertise in managing opera- graduation, she ing and relaxed mark from the company but about the environmental haz- tions and marketing would be took a year off in clothes for my failed. So she added “Fake” in ards of fast fashion. She wasn’t much more helpful.” Europe — wander- BY HUANG HUNG generation of front of her original label. happy just to be doing well; At the end of the interview, ing, taking fashion Chinese. I want Zhang was very calm when she didn’t want people to throw Zhang told me that she broke classes and going people to feel she talked about these prob- away clothes after one season. her leg recently and was con- to parties and hanging out. In free in my clothes.” lems, but I remember when this So she started a new line called fined to bed for two months. As 2004, she came back to settle in But as they say in China, happened, she was a bit upset Re-Clothing Bank (RCB). usual, she seems to have taken Shanghai as a fashion designer. planning can never catch up on Weibo, the Chinese equiva- “ Yo u don’t throw away money this adversity in stride. “I added “I always knew I wanted to with changes. By 2010, Zhang lent to Twitter. Her ability to after you use it once,” she said. some new twists to the collec- be a fashion designer,” Zhang was forced to close her bou- cope with change is amazing. “Why should you throw away tion, more urban and sophisti- said. “My entire family are art- tique. It was the year of the “I like Fake Natoo as a clothes? I started to ask family cated,” she said. ists — my parents, aunts and World Expo, the municipal name now,” she said. “It’s got and friends to give me all their Among many Chinese design- uncles, cousins. I was not inter- government wanted to pro- a sense of humor considering old clothes and I would make ers and Generation X, Zhang is ested in that life.” mote local business and named what happened.” new ones out of them. “ the exception rather than the Despite her generation’s repu- Changle Road as a recom- Fake Natoo became popu- It attracted a lot of media rule. She denies it. “I can suffer tation, Zhang had a goal in mind mended shopping street. The lar and a top seller in the bou- attention as well as interest more,” she said, and paused to from the get-go: She wanted to landlords took this as a sign to tiques. As merchandise moved from entertainment celebrities. rephrase herself: “I guess you work for a large fashion company double rent for their current quickly, she became concerned Everyone thought that would can say I got stamina.” 6 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2012

PARIS PREVIEW silk jersey — two elements that were The fabrics are technically compli- missing from Simoens’ fall lineup of cated but visually low-key, the colors edgy, rock ’n’ roll fare. faded, the self-designed prints mildly Requiem designer Raffaele Borriello “deranged” in shapes that favor bias cuts has taken on the design helm and said and draping that also look disordered. Ones to Watch he is more keen on working with the “The biggest news,” said chief execu- Fresh starts at Paris Fashion Week. house’s codes. Since arriving last tive officer Thomas Engelkamp, “is that March, he plunged into Leonard’s we’re back. With the Wunderkind DNA extensive archives. in place. Which means [the collection] PACO RABANNE will always be demanding in some way, A Paco Rabanne He was particularly attracted yet with a better balance between ex- spring dress in Young designer Lydia Maurer, by the graphic elements of some traordinary pieces and sales pieces.” the making. recently promoted to creative of the floral and vegetal director after two seasons prints from late Sixties — MELISSA DRIER as studio design director, and early Seventies. said she wants to put “the The clothes are ADIEU woman at the center stage likewise sharp, as Designing couple of the collection.” in a short coat- Isabelle Guedon Inspirations include dress with con- and Benjamin Marisa Berenson and structed, narrow Caron draw inspira- Anita Pallenberg wearing shoulders and tion from their love Rabanne creations in the a mix of draped for the British punk Sixties and Seventies, sexy and tailored rock scene to create and psychedelic. elements. a wardrobe of cool, Maurer’s debut collec- Borriello said classic shoes. tion references Rabanne’s he wishes “to Both have a strong iconic metal dresses, with bring structure” background in both the discs appearing in me- to its core silk jer- the footwear and tallic fabrics, eyelet em- sey fabric, while fashion business. broidery and silicon, while not forgetting the Caron was trained in metal mesh is mixed with evening potential of shoemaking ateliers translucent water snake those signature prints. Adieu shoes. and Guedon has worked or textured silk and em- The spring collection spans for fashion houses such as broidered to blend the two from daywear to a couple of Guy Laroche under Alber Elbaz and Yves fabrics. Eager to lighten long evening frocks in organza, Saint Laurent. Their goal is to create things up and bring even some overlaid with transparent basic shapes such as derby, loafers and more sensuality and move- plastic sequins. creepers with a subtle “bad boy” retro ment to the intricately worked — L.F. edge. Shoes are underpinned by a crepe short dresses and tunics, she is sole made in three parts for ultracomfort creating some body jewelry piec- WUNDERKIND and resistance. es in collaboration with jewelry After a three-season break, This shoe brand for men and women designer Taher Chemirik. There Wunderkind is returning to the is only in its second season but has al- are also new lightweight, leather Paris runway this sea- ready attracted many influ- versions of the 1969 bag with a son — not once, but FOR MORE ONES TO ential retailers, including

DOMINIQUE MAITRE zippered closure, adding prag- three times. Designer WATCH AND SCENE, SEE Colette, Dover Street Market matism to the house heritage. Wolfgang Joop, and Lane Crawford. — LAURENT FOLCHER who bought back all WWD.com/ Next up is an Adieu store rights to his Potsdam, Eye. slated to open in October at LEONARD Germany-based luxury 7 Rue d’Aboukir in the 2nd Forget about the false start last sea- label in March 2011, is arrondissement of Paris. son. After French designer Maxime staging three intimate showings in The line is produced in Portugal and Simoens left Leonard after only one Fondation Dosne-Thiers so viewers retail prices are around 400 to 450 runway outing, the house is going can focus on the clothes. euros ($520 to $650).

PHOTOS BY AND LEONARD RABANNE back to its roots — floral prints and A Leonard look. — L.F.

La Dame de Pic, 20 Rue du Louvre, 75001 SCENE Tel.: +33-1-42-60-40-40 Hard Times Some tastes, shops and Web: [email protected] FRENCH CLOTHING SALES scents of Paris. Fixed price menus at 79 euros, 100 euros and fell 3.7 percent in the first half 120 euros, or $103, $130 and $157, respectively, of 2012 as freak weather and a FRAGRANT FEAST: If French cuisine had a at current exchange. The lunch menu is 49 flat economy wreaked havoc couturière, it would be chef Anne-Sophie euros, or $64. with buying intentions, accord- Pic. The fact that she is the only woman in Reservations are essential; Closed Sunday. ing to the most recent data pub- France to hold three lished by the French Women’s Michelin stars makes GALLIC FLAIR: Fans Ready-to-Wear Federation. the opening of her of quality basics Sales of women’s rtw were first Paris restaurant made in France The French Trotters Paris flagship. worst hit, falling 5.8 percent, a headline event. should head to while sales of men’s rtw de- But rather than the new French portant, especially with lighting — but we’re clined by 2.5 percent and chil- spin out what she’s Trotters flagship not a disco, so it’s all very flattering.” dren’s rtw by 2 percent. doing at her home- in the capital’s hip Anchored by an authentic 1740 Aubusson Accessories continued to stead, La Maison Marais district. tapestry of a Chinese garden, the bar picks buck the trend, registering Pic in Valence, Founders Clarent up on a peacock motif with a trompe l’oeil

a 5.5 percent rise, though France, Pic opted GOIZE FRANCOIS and Carole Delhouz entry by artist Thierry Bruet, a stuffed pea- sales of shoes fell 1 percent for an original new have grouped their cock and a palette of neutrals with shots of during the period. concept, La Dame own lines for men, teal or leopard pattern. PHOTO BY French consumers were de Pic, in collabora- The main dining room women and chil- Behind the bar, head barman Maxime particularly cautious head- tion with Takasago at La Dame de Pic. dren with a multibrand selection of ready-to- Hoerth and first barman Roman Devaux ing into presidential and perfumer Philippe wear, home goods and cosmetics brands that (formerly second to Colin Field at the parliamentary elections Bousseton. The pair created three fragranc- reflect their understated aesthetic. Hemingway Bar) shake up variations on in May and June, with the es, each representative of a different fixed- A deceptively small entry provides access classics, such as the Bristol Old Fashioned prospect of further austerity price menu. Guests are first presented not to a spacious first floor at the recently opened No. 1 (bourbon, whiskey, coffee and maple measures prompting many to with a menu but mouillettes bearing scents 2,150-square-foot boutique, which also sells syrup) or the Heartbreaker (vodka, ver- tighten their purse strings. called Vanille ambré, Iode et fleur and Sous- the label’s collaborations with the likes of mouth and rosemary). Tapas, such as King This was reflected in the bois épicés. The fragrances and menus will Avril Gau, Alden and Commune de Paris. crab maki, shrimp tempura and pata negra growing proportion of pur- change every two months. — J.D. ham, by three-star chef Eric Fréchon, chases made during sales Then come dishes with surprising tex- round out the menu. and promotional events: 39.7 tures, such as the small tomatoes nestled French Trotters Keeping the vibe current is a rotating ros- percent versus 36.7 percent among peaks of vanilla flavored with rum and 128 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 ter of DJs and featured video artists whose in the first half of 2011. mozzarella cream, or Gillardeau oysters with Tel.: +33-1-64-13-17-36 films loop on a mirror-screen over the bar. The outlook for the sec- cauliflower puree sprinkled with jasmine. Open Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. — T.I. ond half is not much bright- Decor by Philippe Starck protégé Bruno er. Provisional data released Borrione echoes Pic’s sensibility, offsetting FINE FEATHERS: Star decorator Pierre-Yves Le Bristol by the French Fashion white brick with neo-baroque crystal lamps Rochon and the owner of Le Bristol hotel, 112 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Institute showed clothing and mirrors, massive wooden tables and 3-D Maja Oetker, have just put the finishing Tel.: +33-1-53-43-42-41 sales fell 6 percent in August “couture” leather tableaux by English artist touches on the new Bar du Bristol. Email: [email protected]. after remaining broadly flat Helen Amy Murray. The storefront is an open “We wanted to create a cozy space for a Open daily 5 p.m.-2 a.m. Cocktails start at 26 in June and July. kitchen, already a reliable draw for onlook- nightcap, combining an English club with the euros ($34 ). — JOELLE DIDERICH ers day and night. spirit of joie de vivre,” said Oetker. “Being A 50 euro ($66) table fee applies on DJ nights, — TINA ISAAC able to create different ambiances was im- Thursday through Saturday.

8 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2012 WWD.COM Pomellato Makes a Move Into Silver helping to accelerate the deci- ness — followed by By RACHEL STRUGATZ sion to introduce the line. He the rest of Europe projects that by the end of next and the United A Pomellato POMELLATO IS trying its hand year, sales from the Pomellato States at 38 and 12 67 bracelet. at silver — and the company will 67 offerings will comprise 10 percent, respective- toast its premiere silver collec- percent of the company’s sales, ly. The best-per- tion, Pomellato 67, on Thursday which represents two-thirds of forming store on a with an event during Milan the Pomellato Group’s overall global basis is in Fashion Week. business. The remaining third Paris, while “This is more than [just] ex- comes from its 20-year-old ju- the fastest- panding the brand. In this case, nior brand, Dodo. With that growing we see it as a new collection breakdown, Pomellato 67 will markets and, potentially, a new brand,” hopefully reach sales of $13 are the said Andrea Morante, chief million to $15 million for 2013, executive officer of Pomellato depending on the current ex- A Pomellato Group, the fifth-largest jewelry change rate. 67 ring. brand in Europe, in terms of Morante estimates 2012 sales sales, after Cartier, Chopard, for the group — including the Bulgari and Tiffany & Co. three brands under its umbrella The 47-piece silver line is — will reach $192 million, about available exclusively at 21 Saks a 10 percent increase from Fifth Avenue doors and its Web last year. He expects a similar consumers are starting to ap- site, as well as Pomellato’s four A pair of Pomellato 67 earrings. jump from 2012 to 2013 and an- preciate the concept of style U.S. boutiques — in Miami, ticipates sales will surpass the — as opposed to status — in a , Beverly Hills and New tor Sergio Silvestris, contain $210 million mark, thanks to the brand. The market [is still] at York. During the holiday sea- marcasite detailing and are opening of at least 10 boutiques a stage where perhaps status son, the collection will launch based on iconic pieces dating in the coming year, in places is the most relevant element of throughout Europe in 22 of back to the Sixties. Marcasite- such as Singapore (the second reference when it comes to con- Pomellato’s freestanding doors encrusted silver hoop earrings, in the city), Hong Kong, Dubai sumer preferences, so I guess and more than 150 wholesale of varying sizes, range from and Santa Fe. In the last three U.S., Germany and France. The we thought that it was a bit early accounts, and this number will $510 to $800, and an oversize years alone, Pomellato’s retail company also is seeing good for us to try and enter the mar- increase to 30 branded shops chain-link bracelet with mar- presence has almost doubled. growth in and Singapore ket immediately — especially and 175 retail partners in 2013. casite links interspersed at Morante said the company will (where the brand will open its in jewelry, where traditions are All jewelry in the new silver random retails for $2,465. go from having 42 directly op- second store in November). very strong,” Morante said. range, named after the year This is the first time the erated shops in 2009 to 87 by The Far East is responsible The end goal is to become a the company was founded, is 45-year-old company — his- December. Forty of those doors for just 5 percent of the busi- global brand, which for Morante produced in the same Milan torically known for its gold are Dodo, and 47 are Pomellato, ness, and Morante admits that means a balanced presence in factory as the main gold line. jewelry — has worked with sil- and there are an additional 500 the company has not expanded the U.S., Europe and Asia. The Many of the necklaces, pen- ver. Morante is optimistic the points of distribution globally. sufficiently in the region and is Pomellato Group is concentrated dants, earrings and chain-link market will embrace the $200 The Pomellato Group’s larg- “not that present in China.” in Europe, which represents 75 bracelets, conceptualized by to $4,000 collection, and he est market is — currently “The idea is to take advan- percent of the business, with just Pomellato creative direc- points to higher gold prices as 43 percent of the overall busi- tage of the fact that the Chinese 15 percent in the U.S. and Canada. Wrangler Ventures Into European Retail

By NORMA QUINTO

WRANGLER JEANS HAS opened its first stand-alone store in Europe, a 1,500-square-foot For the truly creative mind, monobrand shop in Leipzig, Germany, and plans to roll out the concept to major cities through- out Europe in the next few years. a good idea is just the beginning. Germany is Wrangler’s big- gest market outside the U.S., Wrangler International presi- dent Frans van Zeeland pointed School of Continuing and Professional Studies out: “It has the biggest economy and our brand equity is very The interior of the Wrangler store in Leipzig. FIT offers hundreds of courses and a wide variety of certifi cate programs tailored strong here.” As for kicking off in Leipzig, for professionals in fashion and related fi elds. Our convenient weekend, evening, and he told WWD, “We wanted to start with our ity. He did not give specific sales goals, first store in a city that is not the biggest though the plan includes rolling out day classes cover a wide range of topics: city but is representative of the German stores throughout Germany, and then • Design, product development, and sourcing market. Leipzig is…quite modern, up-and- major cities in other European countries. coming, and there are lots of young people Challenged to reenergize the brand, • Industry-specifi c computer applications and lots of denim activity here.” Wrangler started a program around four Within walking distance to two major years ago, van Zeeland explained, “using • Fashion styling, pet product design, and video for the web universities, the store is nestled among the good things from the past to shape major department stores and cultural in- the future. It was designed to support • Retail math, business, and fi nance stitutions with lots of fashion company, in- consumers’ brand loyalty and empha- cluding G-Star Raw across the street, Levi’s size the Wrangler DNA with elements of around the corner and Timberland just one cowboy, individualism, rugged, outdoors Go to fi tnyc.edu/wwd today to view door down. The store design was developed and freedom that represent the brand.” by the U.K. agency Checkland Kindleysides. The marketing strategy focuses on social courses and register online, or Inspired by Wrangler’s original 1904 media and the Internet. call 888-FIT-IS-NYC x5 to U.S. factory in Greensboro, N.C., the in- “Our distribution is different in the terior features fake skylights in metal U.S.,” he said. “We have two big business- request a catalogue. and Plexiglas, as well as vintage oxidized es [there]: one selling to the western out- steel metal fixtures and naturally worn door specialty trade and the other to mass recycled wood floors and shelving dis- market retail chains such as Wal-Mart.” FIT is a State University of New York college. plays. The large fitting rooms have U.S. In Europe the focus is midtier special- flags in dip-dyed indigo canvas as cur- ty stores and high-end department stores. tains “that are not in-your-face American Price points are higher in Europe, fall- flags but subdued,” said van Zeeland. ing closer to Levi’s and G-Star. Jeans sell Retail development is at the top from 60 euros to 100 euros, or $77 to $128 of Wrangler’s current brand strategy. at current exchange, with a few styles “The next step to our global expansion running higher. At Wal-Mart stores in the is to own and operate stores,” said van U.S., the top price for Wrangler is roughly Zeeland. “The purpose is to be closer to half the lowest price in Europe. Fashion Institute of Technology the end consumer, to tell our story and He added that the design details of to show the whole product range.” the jeans are the same in Europe as Where creativity gets down to business. He explained that this accelerated in the U.S., but the execution is more expansion will boost the wholesale busi- elaborate and at a higher level for the ness through enhanced brand visibil- European market. TIMELESS CLASSIC: Michelle Obama dons a blue Barbara Tfank dress featuring archival WWD STYLE fabric. PAGE 11 MEMO PAD

GAGA’S OSCAR VOTE: Oscar de la Renta’s beef toward Cathy Horyn’s review of his runway show got even meatier Tuesday morning as Lady Gaga weighed in on Twitter in support of the designer. The pop star, who has openly criticized Horyn in the past, going so far as to single her out in the September 2011 issue of V magazine, crafted a pointed tweet to her 29.5 million followers and OscarPRGirl, otherwise known as Erika Bearman, senior vice president of public relations. “@ OscarPRGirl Bravo Oscar. Only you would be so chic as to purchase an entire page in WWD, making statements like a good fashion citizen.” This isn’t the first time Gaga has taken on Horyn. In a piece in the September 2011 issue of V magazine about “extreme critic fundamentalism,” Gaga said, “In the age of the Internet, when collections and performances are so accessible to the public and anyone can post a review on Facebook or Twitter, shouldn’t columnists and reviewers, such as Cathy Horyn, employ a more modern and forward approach to criticism, one that separates them from the average individual at home on their laptop?” The pop star continued her rant: “Why do we harp on the predictability of the infamous fashion critic? The predictability of the most notoriously harsh critics who continue writing their notoriously harsh reviews? Why give the elephant in the room a peanut if it has already snapped its trunk at you? That peanut was dead on arrival. To be fair, Ms. Horyn, the more critical question to ask is: when did the pretense of fashion become more important than its influence on a generation? Why have we decided that one person’s opinion matters more than anyone else’s?” — AMY WICKS

FRENCH ACCENT: Condé Nast France has revealed plans to launch a French edition of Vanity Fair in 2013. Although the magazine is launching in a time of economic crisis, Xavier Romatet, president of Condé Nast France, said, “It is precisely in difficult times that we need to take initiatives.” The monthly magazine will be run by veteran journalist Michel Denizot, who has been presenting the weeknight program “Le Grand Journal” on pay-television channel Canal Plus for close to a decade. Formerly president of the Paris Saint-Germain football club, Denizot has strong connections to the world of sports, politics and entertainment. Anne Boulay, editor in chief of the French edition of GQ, has been named editor in chief of Vanity Fair France. She will be succeeded at GQ by her second- in-command, Emmanuel Poncet. Virginie Mouzat has been named editor in chief overseeing fashion, lifestyle and That Other Kate feature stories. After a 15-year career at Le Figaro, she is to start at Vanity Fair after Paris Fashion Week. The editorial LONDON — While the Duchess of Cambridge has been team will be made up of about 20 people. The French edition of VF is expected to abroad during this city’s fashion week, Kate Moss, fashion include a mix of investigative journalism and entertainment features, drawing on royalty if nothing else, surfaced in the front row at Mulberry’s the success of its U.S. counterpart. About runway show on Tuesday. For more, see page 11. 80 percent of the content will be exclusive to the French edition. Romatet said that the magazine’s content will be anchored in French culture alongside international culture, noting that it is unlikely that the Duchess of Cambridge or the Kennedy clan would land on the cover of PHOTO BY TIM JENKINS the French version. — JOELLE DIDERICH AND LAURE GUILBAULT 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2012

FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE WWD.com/eye.

eye

® THEY ARE WEARING

SIDELINE VIEW While the clothes on London’s spring runways were a shade or three brighter, the street style hewed more seasonally appropriate this week. Showgoers and hangers-on kept things more muted, which made the occasional print, statement accessory or splash of color all the more powerful. Of course, this being a fashion crowd, sunglasses were always in the mix, gray skies or blue.

PHOTOS BY KUBA DABROWSKI WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2012 11 WWD.COM

show, to be held at Versace’s headquarters 125th anniversary. FASHION SCOOPS on Friday at 10 p.m., right after the Smythson chief executive officer Andy signature brand’s show. “I’m a big fan of Janowski and Samantha Cameron, creative Beth’s voice and energy,” said Donatella consultant and Britain’s First Lady, Versace, who designs the Versus line with hosted the party at the newly refurbished TFANK’S SILK ROAD: The vibrant blue name.’ This definitely helps increase Christopher Kane. “Beth has an absolutely store on Bond Street with guests such Barbara Tfank dress Michelle Obama wore visibility and name recognition. It is fearless attitude, the same animating as Christopher Kane, Erdem Moralioglu, Edie on the campaign trial Monday was a great honor and a pleasure to be of Versus. It will be a fabulous night of Campbell, Otis Ferry, Portia Freeman, Azealia very of-the-moment colorwise, but the assistance to the First Lady. She kind fashion and . I can’t wait for it to be Banks, Ellen von Unwerth and Amber Le Bon. vintage fabric used to make it dates of personifies everything that is great Friday.” — ALESSANDRA TURRA Bryan Ferry performed, and later his son back decades. The rolled-neck dress about women.” — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Isaac took over the decks. was made from Bianchini-Férier silk MASSENET’S MOMENT: “If you had told me Kane said he was happy that Cameron twill in a mosaic tile motif. The print when I was rookie journalist at Women’s chose to wear one of his dresses for the was created by artist-designer Raoul Wear Daily that one day I’d be standing up evening. “I love strong women,” he said, Dufy, who worked for the company here, I wouldn’t have believed you. I think adding that he’s off to Paris later this week from 1912 to about 1928. At that time, this is a tremendous honor and I intend to to work on fabric development for fall. Dufy was known for the fabrics he take it very seriously,” Natalie Massenet said Nearby, Liberty was hosting a party for made for Paul Poiret. Having collected Tuesday night as chairman of the British Kenzo’s creative directors, Humberto Leon Bianchini-Férier fabrics for 10 years, Fashion Council Harold Tillman handed and Carol Lim, in the first-floor atrium of Tfank bought the Dufy-made mosaic her the reins of the organization at Brew the Regent Street store. The clothes had one at an auction. Wharf in London’s Borough Market. been cleared away to make way for guests “Talk about the holy grail. I have “I really, sincerely believe [Natalie] such as Lulu Kennedy, Olivier Zahm, Susie collected archival fabric for years can take the baton and propel the BFC Bubble, Henry Holland, Alexa Chung, Daisy Lowe and this particular one was done forward,” Tillman said. “She has the and Matthew Stone. with roller printing by hand,” she Kate Moss vision, talent, international perspective, said. “When you look at the design JENKINS and Alexa style and personality to take the BFC to compared to today’s digital printing, TIM Chung the next stage.” the difference is between artwork and BY In her capacity as BFC ambassador, making a Xerox.” Samantha Cameron thanked Tillman and PHOTO The First Lady wore the dress at said, “You have been a fantastic chairman Florida State University. A friend, DRAMA QUEENS: It was the battle of during the past five years of dedication and who Tfank had shown the unusual the Edwardian TV stars in the front hard work to British fashion.” She praised fabric to, spotted the dress on C-SPAN row at the Mulberry show on Tuesday him for building such a strong team and and called the designer to tell her the morning inside Claridge’s ballroom, added, “Part of the job is to find a great news. Monday’s sighting marked the with cast members from “Downton successor and, Harold, you have done that. fifth time Tfank has dressed the First Abbey” sitting just a few seats down It’s going to be an incredible experience to HARVEY

Lady; a visit to Buckingham Palace from Rebecca Hall, who’s starring in see the next few years unfold.” NICK Bryan Ferry performs at last summer and the President’s State the rival British TV drama “Parade’s “Don’t let the American accent fool BY the Smythson party. of the Union address earlier this year End,” based on a series of Ford Madox you,” Massenet joked with the crowd. PHOTO were two of the other occasions. Tfank Ford novels. “We haven’t had the “I am British. My mom is British; I’ve declined to comment on dressing definite go-ahead to start filming [a been here for 20 years and I started my Leon and Lim were on a flying visit Obama, nor would she offer retail third series] but if it does go ahead business here. I have precise and specific to London, checking out their favorite prices for her collection. Polyvore it will be in February,” said Joanne plans that I intend to put into . But, vintage haunts. Lim is now the proud listed 10 Barbara Tfank dresses Froggatt, who plays the maid Anna before then, over the next few months, I owner of “an old Ossie Clark dress — retailing from $2,140 to $3,340. Bates in “Downton Abbey,” and who’s intend to do my homework.” — JULIA NEEL superprinted with an open neck and a As for how the First Lady’s set to jet off to Los Angeles for the lot of embroidery” — from the Vintage allegiance affects Tfank, she said, Emmy Awards — and hoping to come FERRY LIGHTS: “Diet. That’s the secret,” Emporium off of Brick Lane. “I jokingly said to someone, ‘People home with one. said David Gandy. “You can do as many ab Holland said his new eyewear now know how to pronounce my Kate Moss, Alexa Chung, a newly crunches as you want, but if you have fat collection comes out in November at brunette Lana Del Rey and Olivia Palermo over it, you’re not going to see it.” The Browns. “They look like eyelashes and were among the other front-row model — who just created a new have the words ‘Cross my heart and hope guests. Moss was carrying the new app — joined fellow revelers at Smythson to die stick a needle in my eye’ on them,” Mulberry bag, the Willow. “Look, the on Monday night to mark the brand’s he explained. — S.H. pocket comes off, it’s genius,” the model said, adding that she has a book coming out in November: “It’s the Kate book with photos from my

SANDLIN/AP whole career from age 14 right up to Fabien Baron

PHIL the present. did it with

BY Rizzoli.” — STEPHANIE HIRSCHMILLER

PHOTO DITTO THAT: Beth Ditto is set to rock Michelle Obama in a Barbara Tfank dress made Milan Fashion Week. The American For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. from an archival print designed by Raoul Dufy. singer will perform live at the Versus

ENK Inks Joint Venture for Shanghai Show

have had a successful show over they — BOUTIQUE CLOSING SALE — By DAVID LIPKE NEW VENDOR DAY MERCHANDISER past three years and we feel we can grow Elegant women’s mannequins original- Need motivated, sharp, organized for ly from top NY Dept store. Female The Darien Sport Shop is an upscale the business substantially,” said Nastos. family department store catering to fast paced high fashion co. Email: bust forms, size 2,4, like new. Fixtures, [email protected] ENK INTERNATIONAL has signed a About 60 percent of the brands that ex- lights, cash wrap, printers, more. the Darien Connecticut lifestyle. On Contact: [email protected] Tuesday October 9 we will be inter- joint venture agreement with Shanghai- hibited were China-based and 40 percent viewing new vendors for our Men’s, Woman’s, Children’s, Gifts, Accesso- Shipping Coordinator / based Shangtex Development Corp. to were international brands. The Shanghai ries, Jewelry and Community driven General Office Duties operate Mode Shanghai, the contempo- show focuses on the high-end contem- Sports Apparel departments. We are a F/T Multi-tasker for quick paced small rary trade show in China. porary market, while the larger Beijing unique multi department specialty co. Must have 5+ yrs experience in store that prides ourselves on partner- order processing & handling of logis- The deal expands ENK’s reach in show caters to a broader audience. ship with vendors. A sampling of the tics issues with Kohls, Macys & other brands we carry include Vineyard major dept stores. Need good comput- China, following its initial foray into the ENK is aiming to expand the scope of Vines, Eileen Fisher, Polo, Under er skills. Additional responsibilities in- market in March 2011 when it established buyers attending Mode Shanghai from Armour and DVF. Visit our web site at clude general office duties. Please www.dariensport.com for further in- email resume to [email protected]. its own branded pavilion at the China the Greater Asia region. “Shanghai is sight into our store. Please email Lin- da at [email protected] for an International Clothing and Accessories such a fashion capital and we want buy- Exp. Design Consultant offering: appointment. No phone calls please. If SKETCHERS (Freelance) Fair in Beijing, the largest apparel show ers from the entire region coming here Creative Direction, Merchandising, you are not able to join us on October 9, Women’s Outerwear Co. Seeks a Part- Line Design from Concept to Sample, you are welcome to email Linda any time experienced Flat Sketcher. Must in China. Dubbed ENKUSA@CHIC, and will be reaching out to Hong Kong, & All Phases of Product Development photos, your website address or any in- be proficient in illustrator. Salary email: [email protected] formation that may be of interest and she negotiable. Please e-mail resume to: among the first participating brands at Taipei, Manila, Seoul, , Singapore will forward to the appropriate Buyer. that show were AG Adriano Goldschmied, and even Jakarta,” said Nastos. [email protected] J Brand, Hudson Jeans, Paige Denim, The next edition of Mode Shanghai Nanette Lepore and Robert Rodriguez. is scheduled for March 12 to 14 at the U.S. brands do not yet participate in Shanghai New International Expo Mode Shanghai, and ENK is aiming to Center, concurrent with Shanghai leverage its relationships to change that Fashion Week. The ENKUSA@CHIC in the new 50-50 partnership. “Without show in Beijing will follow on March question, this will become a critical 26 to 29. market for American fashion brands ENK International, which is owned going forward,” predicted Tom Nastos, by Forstmann Little & Co., oper- president of New York-based ENK. ates 25 trade shows a year, including Mode Shanghai was founded in 2010 Fashion Coterie, ENK Vegas, ENK by Shangtex Development Corp. This NYC, Accessorie Circuit, Intermezzo (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] year, the show hosted 500 brands from Collections, Children’s Club, ENK 14 countries with 7,000 attendees. “They WSA, Sole Commerce and TMRW. 12 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2012 WWD.COM HMX Getting Buyer Interest, Versace Spirit Comes to E-commerce be approached.” Ferraris said he expected online By LUISA ZARGANI sales to account for a “minimum” of 1 percent of Iconix Among the Suitors the group’s total revenues next year. {Continued from page one} ries that are part of its opera- MILAN — Expect a “very Versace” online store “Versace is all about boldness and glamour,” was resolved as continued ne- tions. HMX operates three facto- when the company unveils its new e-commerce said Donatella Versace, expressing excitement gotiations centered around a ries — in Chicago, Rochester and site today. about the new site before adding, “Online shop- timetable through which SKNL Hamilton, Ontario. In an exclusive interview, the brand’s chief ping has never been so sexy and fun.” would provide funding via in- executive officer, Gian Giacomo Ferraris, de- Dramatic photography — one of Donatella stallments. scribed the new site as fully mirroring the spirit Versace’s passions — is a strong element of the site. But market sources indicate Doug of creative director Donatella Versace and the Products are shot on golden mannequins “that look that SKNL might be unwilling to Williams label’s lifestyle and aesthetics. like androids,” said Andreas Bergbaur, group direc- continue to fund HMX, increas- The site will be controlled by the company, tor of marketing, e-commerce and digital strategy. ing the pressure on the firm to which is partnering with German e-commerce Zoom effects; standout detailing of fabrics find a new owner. One source firm Netrada. The latter will set up and operate and textures; frequently changing front-end floor familiar with the financial struc- all back-office functions and manage technology displays of merchandise, and dedicated capsule ture of HMX acknowledged that and logistics. “This is in line with our strategy collections are also noteworthy. “timing is critical” in connection to bring everything in-house,” said Ferraris, who Bergbaur, who joined the company in January, with any acquisition of the firm. has been restructuring the company and return- said the site is “dynamic, innovative and content- If SKNL does not provide its ing it to the black. “We can control all functions driven.” He mentioned “Donatella’s Hot Picks,” agreed funding, that could jeop- and be totally independent, from the definition with the designer’s favorite items, and the “My ardize the availability of HMX’s of the site and its marketing and ads to the infor- Versace” section, where she invites visitors to SEE new facility with Salus Capital. n mation to our customers and their feedback. We tune a “display mixer like an old radio” to per- HI

Sources said that more than C need the interactivity. And we are more flexible sonalize their shopping experience depending two dozen firms have looked at if we are on our own turf.” on the occasion — ranging from “Red Carpet” EORGE

HMX, although Iconix seems G With subsidiaries in the U.S. and China, and “First Date” to an “Out for Business” and BY to be the most interested. Netrada has the infrastructure to support “Getaway Weekend.” The designer’s interest in

Rumblings over the future of HOTO Versace’s ambitious plans for a global rollout the site and her desire to encourage a dialogue HMX and its funding first sur- P of its e-commerce offer, said Ferraris, revealing with customers is evident throughout. faced at the MAGIC show in Market sources believe that the company invested 2 million euros, or $2.62 Bergbaur said there is a strong editorial ap- Las Vegas in August. There discussions may have already in- million at current exchange, in the start-up, and proach: “We plan to make changes every four were also rumors that a man- cluded union feedback, and that worked on the project for the past year. weeks, so that the site is dynamic, while we can’t agement-led buyout might be in the unions are already on board The site goes live today in Italy, the U.K., redo a store every four weeks. This is possible the works. While the accuracy with a possible sale of the com- France and Germany, and will be available only online.” of the speculation could not be pany. One source familiar with in the U.S., Belgium, the , Spain Coming up next are Versace-dedicated micro- determined, sources said any the discussions said “there’s and from Oct. 17. More countries will sites and apps in the near future, he said. new owner would likely keep been no discussion or intent be added next year. The store carries all of The site reflects the brand’s new concept Williams and Abboud on board, to shut down any factory.” The Versace’s product ranges — from clothing, fra- store conceived by Donatella Versace with ar- given their efforts in overhaul- source concluded that the unions grances, handbags and small leather goods to chitect Jamie Fobert, which will be unveiled in ing the business and updating see a sale with continued factory its home collection, footwear and the new Young October on Mercer Street in New York. A mosaic the collections. production as a “commitment to Versace line. It will add Versus at a later stage. pattern — a reference to Gianni Versace — and There are major hurdles to American manufacturing,” and Asked about the timing of the launch, Ferraris Plexiglas fixtures will be central elements in any possible acquisition of HMX, as a result, the factories would said that “this is a moment where there is a strong both brick-and-mortar and online stores. namely the status of the unions not be an issue in any transaction interest in the brand. We wouldn’t be able to physi- A boutique in Paris with the new look will and the North American facto- currently under discussion. cally open that many stores, and this is one way to open early next year on Avenue Montaigne. Slimane’s YSL Concept to Be Unveiled in Shanghai

{Continued from page one} to strong revenue growth, interrupt YSL’s Marble, in black and white, is a key material recent profitable streak. Sales in the first Plans call for the 51-year-old fashion in Hedi Slimane’s new store concept. half rose 46.4 percent to 223.5 million house to open about 15 directly operated euros, or $290 million at average exchange. stores and shops-in-shop a year, all under YSL opened five stores last year and the the new Saint Laurent banner, which network stood at 89 locations as of June 30. Slimane chose to symbolize the principles Deneve arrived at YSL in April 2011 of youth, freedom and modernity that in- following a three-year stint heading spired the creation of Saint Laurent Rive Lanvin, where he oversaw explosive Gauche ready-to-wear back in 1966. growth for the French brand under cre- “The store concept has been completed, ative director Alber Elbaz. designed and perfected, and is ready for In his time at YSL, Deneve’s most vis- rollout,” Deneve said. “Ver y rapidly, we ible move has been to recruit Slimane to will see the overall store network evolve.” succeed Pilati, who had been YSL’s cre- YSL said the store design refer- ative director since 2004. ences the French Art Deco and Union Deneve also described additional des Artistes Modernes (French Union of transformations behind the scenes, “laying

Modern Artists) movements. SCHWOERER the groundwork for the change” around Key materials include black and Slimane, known for his “to the millime- white marble, raw concrete and Thirties- ter” approach. These include streamlining esque display furniture with gold, silver, PATRICIA product development cycles, deepening mirror and glass. merchandising skills “and applying them

No opening event is planned for the PHOTO BY to make products that are more focused, Shanghai store, which will carry exist- exclusive and coherent,” Deneve said. ing products designed by Stefano Pilati, ing, and a spare leather bag named Duffle That said, Deneve said his objective is Changes and upgrades in production, Slimane’s predecessor. “By January, ev- dangling from the arm of Gwyneth Paltrow, to drive all categories to new heights. and strict quality controls for Slimane’s erything will be in place,” Deneve said, have leaked into the blogosphere. As of the end of June, rtw accounted for collections will mean later-than-usual referring to the collections, store design Lauding Slimane’s fashion perspective, 21 percent of YSL sales, versus 23 percent deliveries for the first season, with the and other elements of brand identity. Deneve said “not only has he redefined a for shoes, 42 percent for leather goods and first products arriving in January. Signaling it is serious about leapfrog- strong men’s and women’s wardrobe for Saint 14 percent for other products, such as jew- For example, he said Slimane’s “quest ging into the big leagues, YSL has set an Laurent today, but he’s worked on a new of- elry and silk. Europe is a key region for for perfection,” especially in tailoring, a interim goal of reaching one billion euros fering of shoes, leather goods and jewelry.” YSL, accounting for 46 percent of revenues key trait of the house, meant the company in sales before the end of this decade, Deneve said YSL carried over certain versus 26 percent for North America, 21 had to invest time and resources to get the according to industry sources. YSL rev- hit products like the Cabas Chyc bag and percent for Asia, and 8 percent for Japan. fits right. He noted production cycles would enues in 2011 totaled 354 million euros, or Tribute shoes, which were “upgraded and “We’re growing strongly in each of the be less affected in leather goods and shoes. $493.6 million at average exchange rates. reworked.” In addition, Slimane’s first collec- regions since the beginning of the year,” Deneve said he was able to shave seven Given YSL’s ambitions to rival the likes tion included a “very strong offering” of nov- Deneve said, adding that China, where weeks from deliveries, and reduce stock- of Chanel and Dior in size and cachet, elty in accessories that yielded solid orders. YSL has only half a dozen stores, offers keeping units in leather goods by about 40 might Slimane return the brand to couture? He noted the rtw collection reflects a “tremendous upside” potential. percent. He also shelved what he called “It could be a natural step, but no time- broader range of prices to appeal to “new, YSL quietly resumed expansion of its re- “side collections,” alluding to capsule table has been defined,” Deneve said. younger clients,” with prices on some ex- tail network in 2010 after battling for years ranges devoted to unisex, eveningwear To be sure, the executive has his ceptional items heading higher. to lift revenues sufficiently to support the and travel wardrobes, in order to focus on hands full facilitating the change in cre- “Saint Laurent, in order to be suc- 60-some doors constructed during the Tom the show collections and pre-collections. ative leadership. cessful, is creating a very strong desire Ford-Domenico De Sole era, when a radical “For the organization, it’s been an ex- Slimane unveiled his first collections — through the ready-to-wear: That’s what attempt to engineer a Gucci-esque rejuve- hilarating moment, but also so intense,” women’s resort and men’s spring 2013 — to has been at the heart of our business. nation drove YSL deeply into the red. The he said. “Hedi has set very high stan- retailers only in June, fanning anticipation We’re one of the iconic names, the ulti- company finally posted a profit in 2010. dards, and expects people to meet them. — and some consternation — among the mate French fashion house. This trickles Deneve noted investments in the retail He has such a clear vision, from Day One, fashion press. Only images of new packag- down to all products,” said the ceo. revamp and other costs would not, thanks about where he wants to go.”

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