CONSERVATION REPORT: THE GELLATLY HOUSE & THE GELLATLY BARN

Gellatly Nut Farm Regional Park Westside District Municipality, BC

Gellatly Barn and Log House, c. 1905

October 2008 Lorri Dauncey

Table of Contents

1. OBJECTIVE 2

2. STANDARDS AND GUIDELINES FOR THE CONSERVATION OF SIGNIFICANT 2 HERITAGE BUILDINGS

3. HISTORICAL CONTEXT 4

4. THE GELLATLY HOUSE 6 4.1 Historical Significance 6 4.2 Cultural Significance 7 4.3 Architectural Significance 7 4.4 Heritage Value and Significance 8 4.5 Alterations and Additions History and Conservation Intervention 9 4.6 Condition Report 14 4.7 Potential Use and Public Access 31 4.8 Conclusion 32

5. THE GELLATLY BARN 32 5.1 Historical Significance 32 5.2 Cultural Significance 33 5.3 Architectural Significance 33 5.4 Heritage Value and Significance 34 5.5 Alterations and Additions History and Conservation Intervention 34 5.6 Condition Report 37 5.7 Potential Use and Public Access 47 5.8 Conclusion 48

6. RECOMMENDATIONS 48

Appendixes: Photographs The Gellatly House Building Plans The Gellatly Barn Building Plans

Sources

1 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn

1. OBJECTIVE

The main objective of this report is to provide the necessary historical research, site analysis and building documentation to identify and preserve the heritage value of the Gellatly Barn and the Gellatly House, as part of the Gellatly Nut Farm Regional Park.

These vernacular log buildings have significant heritage value as part of the Gellatly Nut Farm site. It is very important to thoroughly document the buildings’ present condition and identify the character defining elements of each building. This will help to ensure that each building’s heritage value is safeguarded as much as possible for the conservation and interpretation of the buildings.

The original materials and elements will be preserved, repaired and/or replaced, using nationally and locally recognized heritage conservation standards and guidelines.

2. STANDARDS AND GUIDELINES FOR THE CONSERVATION OF SIGNIFICANT HERITAGE BUILDINGS

The Canadian Conservation Standards must be followed as closely as possible to ensure the significant heritage value of the Gellatly Nut Farm Regional Park is retained.

The Government of Canada, in collaboration with the provinces and territories, has developed the Historic Places Initiative that will help to conserve Canada’s historic places. This program has created the Canadian Register of Historic Places and the Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Historic Places in Canada. These standards and guidelines are based on universally recognized conservation principles and identify good practice versus bad practice.

The four major principles are: 1. Understanding: A comprehensive understanding of a historic place is acquired through documentary and oral research as well as physical investigation. Such research and analysis will lead to the identification of the heritage value of the historic place and the character-defining elements that embody its heritage value. (Source: Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Significant Heritage Buildings, p.2) 2. Planning: A mechanism establishing the connection between a comprehensive understanding of a place and interventions that respect its heritage value…Planning must reflect all factors affecting the future of a historic place, including the owner’s needs, resources and external constraints. (Source: Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Significant Heritage Buildings, p.3) 3. Using: Use may be part of its heritage value, in which case, it must be maintained. Otherwise, a new use compatible with the defined heritage value should be considered. Uses that are economically, socially or symbolically viable are the best guarantee of the long-term survival of a historic place. (Source: Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Significant Heritage Buildings, p.3) 4. Intervening: Intervention at a historic place must respect its heritage value and character-

2 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn defining elements. It is always better to preserve than to repair and better to repair than replace. Any additions must respect the spirit and substance of the old. This “minimal intervention” approach is the foundation of good conservation practice. (Source: Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Significant Heritage Buildings, p.3)

The conservation standards and guidelines consider three types of treatment: preservation (protecting, maintaining and/or stabilizing the materials, form and integrity of a historic place), rehabilitation (repairing, alterations and/or additions to make possible a continuing or compatible use of a historic place) and restoration (revealing, recovering or representing the state of a historic place at a particular period in its history). The primary objective of the project and its heritage value will determine the best treatment and ensure that its heritage value is protected. (Source: Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Significant Heritage Buildings, p.5)

The treatments that are most relevant to the Gellatly Barn and the Gellatly House are preserving the structures through stabilization and maintenance. Rehabilitation is also important for carrying out repairs as well as possibly making a few alterations to better interpret the structures for visitors.

There are 14 standards that are fundamental to the conservation of heritage resources and to conserve the heritage value of a historic place. The most important standards that affect the Gellatly Nut Farm Regional Park are as follows:  Do not remove, replace or substantially alter its intact or repairable character-defining elements.  Conserve changes to a historic place which, over time, have become character-defining elements in their own right. (e.g. the house addition)  Conserve heritage value by adopting an approach calling for minimal intervention.  Recognize each historic place as a physical record of its time, place and use. Do not create a false sense of historical development by adding elements from other historic places or other properties or by combining features of the same property that never coexisted. (This is especially important for the whole site, so that it does not become filled with new or heritage buildings moved on from other locations.)  Find a use for a historic place that requires minimal or no change to its character-defining elements.  Protect and, if necessary, stabilize a historic place until any subsequent intervention is undertaken. (The barn should be stabilized with a new roof and a new foundation as soon as possible to ensure its future survival.)  Evaluate the existing condition of character-defining elements to determine the appropriate intervention needed. Use the gentlest means possible for any intervention.  Make any intervention needed to preserve character-defining elements physically and visually compatible with the historic place, AND identifiable upon close inspection. Document any intervention for future reference. (This report is a record of the recommended interventions.)  Repair rather than replace character-defining elements. Where character-defining elements are too severely deteriorated to repair, and where sufficient physical evidence exists, replace them with new elements that match the forms, materials and detailing of sound versions of the same

3 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn

elements.  Conserve the heritage value and character-defining elements when creating any new additions or any related new construction. Make the new work physically and visually compatible with, subordinate to and distinguishable from the historic place. (This is important in the construction of any new buildings and infrastructure on the site.)  Replace missing features from the restoration period with new features whose forms, materials and detailing are based on sufficient physical, documentary and/or oral evidence. (Source: Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Significant Heritage Buildings, pp. 6-7)

3. HISTORICAL CONTEXT

David Erskine Gellatly, his wife Eliza (Ure) and their infant son David, immigrated from Montrose, Scotland to Nippissing Ontario in 1883. Their second child, John Ure (Jack) Gellatly was born in Canada on December 23, 1883. The Gellatly family, now adding four daughters, moved to the Okanagan Valley in 1893, where David E. Gellatly worked as a carpenter for two years. In 1895, David E. Gellatly leased land at Shorts Point (Fintry) which the family farmed for five years. The family’s success at farming, led to the shipping of the first car-lot load of potatoes out of the Okanagan Valley in 1897 on the S.S. Aberdeen. The Gellatly’s plans for bigger potato crops in the following years were stalled as they were unable to buy the Shorts Point land. Looking elsewhere, David E. Gellatly purchased 320 acres at Powers Flat in 1900.

Billy Powers had claimed the area in 1889, which soon became known as Powers Flat. C.D. Simms pre- empted the bench-land (Westbank) the same year. Both men abandoned their claims, Billy in 1890, as the Okanagan First Nations people maintained that the flat was part of their traditional territory and harassed the newcomers. Billy Powers was commemorated with the creek being named Powers Creek. The flat was next pre-empted by G.H. Rashdale, who two years later mortgaged it to Reverend George Hills, BC’s first Anglican Bishop. The Reverend took the land over and the Anglican Synod conveyed it to David Erskine Gellatly in 1900.

The Gellatly family, which now included four sons and five daughters, soon cleared the land and planted fruits and vegetables establishing a large farm. D.E. Gellatly obtained the water rights to Powers Creek for irrigating his farm. By 1904, he had constructed a 20’ x 40’ greenhouse for starting tomato plants, which replaced a smaller one. The family began shipping rail car-lots of mixed vegetables and later on fruit. In 1905, Gellatly had finished constructing the largest greenhouse (53’ x 25’) in the Interior of BC. In 1906, shortly after the greenhouse was finished, it was destroyed in a severe windstorm. A new greenhouse was completed a year later in the spring of 1907. This greenhouse remained standing until it was torn down long after David E. Gellatly’s death.

By 1907, Gellatly was shipping large quantities of tomatoes, soon earning him the title, “Tomato King of the Okanagan”. The family also grew and shipped onions and fruit. The family expanded their business by building a packing house, a box-factory and a large wharf to pack and ship their produce at the end of

4 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn the present day Gellatly Road S next to the Cove Condos.

In 1915, David E. Gellatly opened a wholesale distributing house in Calgary, which became a centre to distribute the family‘s produce, as well as that of other growers. In 1919 a disastrous fire destroyed many of the Gellatly buildings, including the wharf, packinghouse, box-factory, extensive stables and all the equipment. This was the beginning of the end for David E. Gellatly, who became financially crippled and died in 1922 after surgery. Over time the family holdings were reduced until only the ten acre nut farm property remained.

David Gellatly Jr. became interested in nut-growing in 1905, when he began specializing in selecting suitable varieties of nuts to be grown in southern BC. David became known as one of the founders of nut culture in BC. David’s interest and work in the nut growing business influenced his brother Jack. Around 1910 Jack went to University in the U.S.A. where he studied agriculture. After returning to Canada, he began to work as a grower and breeder of hardy type of nuts suitable for northern climates.

Around 1919, Jack Gellatly and his family left the USA after living there off and on for several years to return to Canada. While living in Illinois, he married Sarah Smythe, an Australian woman, and they had one son, Allan. Both Sarah and Allan predeceased Jack, who lived until he was 86 years old. Jack began crossing quality nut-producing trees with hardy local species in the 1920’s and distributed them worldwide. Jack Gellatly marketed his nut growing and breeding business through displays at local, national and international fairs in his travelling van (Refer to: Historic Photo #1) as well as in window displays in a number of Vancouver businesses. Jack Gellatly also served as a director of the Northern Nut-Growers’ Association. Jack Gellatly developed a reputation across North America as a pioneer in the nut-growing industry.

After Jack’s death in 1969, his brother William (Bill) took over and maintained the nut planting and nut nursery. William Gellatly and his wife Alma Jean looked after the ten acre nut farm until William’s death in 1987, at 93 years old.

The Gellatly family also built a number of buildings in the area. D.E. Gellatly built a large farmhouse for his wife and family in the 1908, which was later demolished. In 1907, D.E. Gellatly built a small house for his mother, which still survives on the R.J. Bennett property. The Gellatly Blacksmith shop, located across the road from the Gellatly Nut Farm also on R.J. Bennett’s property is still standing. Another Gellatly barn has been moved to the Gellatly Heritage Park (created through the impetus of Ferne Jean) which is also where the Gellatly family cemetery is located. The Gellatly Heritage Park is a partnership between trustees of the Gellatly Cemetery and the Regional District of the Central Okanagan Parks Department. David Gellatly Jr. built the “Pilot House”, which has been recently moved into the Park as a caretaker‘s residence. Jack Gellatly built his vertical log house and log barn around 1905 in their present locations near Whitworth Road. He also built the nut drying shed as well as the lakeside cottage and the 1945 cabin.

The Powers Flat area became known as Gellatly Point. Gellatly Road and Gellatly Bay were also each

5 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn named after the David E. Gellatly family. The Gellatly family played a substantial role in shaping the farming pattern and agricultural development of the entire Okanagan Valley. (Source: Gellatly Nut Farm Regional Park Concept Plan, May 2003, p. 16)

In 2002, the Gellatly Nut Farm Regional Park was created. Both a Concept Plan and a Site Development Plan were developed by consultants for the Regional District of Central Okanagan. The Park opened in 2005, the year of centennial celebration for the Gellatly Nut Farm. The Gellatly Nut Farm Society, created to save the nut farm for the community, has been a very active participant in the planning process and has played a major role in the development, management and financing of the park.

(Note: The Historical Context has been revised from the July 2007 Conservation Report: Nut Drying Shed & Root Cellar, Lakeshore Cottage and the 1945 Cabin with input from Ferne Jean, granddaughter of D.E. Gellatly )

4. THE GELLATLY HOUSE

4.1 Historical Significance

The Gellatly House is closely associated with Jack Gellatly and his family. Jack Gellatly, who built the house, earned local, national and even some international recognition for his nut growing business and interest in the science of breeding hardy nut varieties and their nutritional value.

The Gellatly family played a substantial role in shaping the farming pattern and agricultural development of the entire Okanagan Valley. The Gellatly family name is recognized in Westbank by area and road names such as Gellatly Point and Gellatly Road. The house, as part of the Gellatly Nut Farm Site, is important for its role in telling Jack Gellatly’s story as a farmer and as a nut breeder and grower.

Jack Gellatly and the Gellatly family were agricultural pioneers in the Okanagan Valley. They cleared the land, built their houses, barns and other agricultural structures using whatever materials were available (e.g. local trees for timber). The house has value because of its function as the nut farm’s residence for Jack and later Bill Gellatly. The original house’s evolution from a pioneer vernacular log house built for a bachelor to its 1920’s expansion into a family farmhouse is significant, as is its subsequent modernization. The 1920’s stucco finish both ‘modernized’ the exterior of the whole house as well as helped to unify the appearance of the new addition with the original log house.

The building’s use as a residence continued even after Jack Gellatly and later Bill Gellatly passed away. The nut farm, bought by the Leslie family, was rented out and the house was lived in by renters who continued to look after the trees while harvesting and selling the nuts locally. In 2002, the nut farm was bought and turned into a regional park by the Central Okanagan Regional District and the Gellatly Nut Farm Society. The house, no longer used as a residence, has since been used as an office and meeting space for the Gellatly Nut Farm Society, for storage of artifacts and archival material. Some limited

6 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn interpretive use has occurred at the log house.

The house has been important as the farm residence for the nut farm during almost its entire history and continues to be used by the Gellatly Nut Farm Society and by the Central Okanagan Regional District today.

4.2 Cultural Significance

The Gellatly House, as part of the Gellatly Nut Farm, is important for its continuity in the community because of its relatively intact site along with the barn, the nut drying shed, the lakeside cottage, the 1945 cabin, and the nut orchard. The orchard has matured but still remains largely how it was during Jack Gellatly’s time. Although the original log house had a major addition in the 1920’s, the house has undergone relatively few alterations since that time. Although the house no longer functions as a residence, its new use should have minimal impact on the exterior and the interior of the house. This will help to ensure the heritage integrity of the house into the future.

Although the park site is located off the main road of Westbank, it is a locally well-known and a significant landmark in the community. The house has a somewhat visible location next to Whitworth Road which has helped to increase its landmark status.

The Gellatly House is also important because it has survived over one hundred years in a community that has been experiencing significant land development pressures and price increases. The house’s vertical log construction and 1920’s light frame addition has likely contributed to the building’s survival as well.

The 1984 Central Okanagan Heritage Inventory identifies the Gellatly House as having low significance. However because of the unique heritage qualities of the building (e.g. construction method using vertical logs, vernacular styling, connections with Gellatly family and built by Jack Gellatly) and its relatively unchanged appearance from the 1920’s, this building is now very significant. The Gellatly Nut Farm Regional Park Concept Plan in May 2003 states that the “Gellatly House has potential for being of high significance”. (Source: The Gellatly Nut Farm Regional Park Concept Plan in May 2003 p. 17)

4.3 Architectural Significance

The Gellatly House, a pioneer vernacular structure, was built by Jack Gellatly in 1905. Vernacular can be defined as the following: unassuming, practical buildings - the heritage of everyday and everybody. While unassuming, many of these buildings have historical importance and help to define our unique sense of place. (Source: David Lovell, “Vernacular Architecture Poster”, for Heritage Week 2007) Vernacular structures were built using local materials and construction methods. Log houses, barns and outbuildings have an

7 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn integral connection to the pioneers who came to North America, where they cleared land, grew crops, raised livestock and built houses and barns to protect their families and their animals against the elements.

The house is comprised of the unique 1905 two-storey building constructed using vertical cottonwood/ poplar logs and the 1920’s ground floor frame addition and north dormer. The original walls are made of local poplar/cottonwood* hand hewn vertical logs that would have been cut from the surrounding land. The 10” to 12” in diameter logs were stood on end and placed on a stone sill plate with mortar between the logs. The 1920’s addition and stucco finish turned this log building into a more modern and roomy yet simple farmhouse. The house like the other Gellatly farm structures has used some local and even some reused materials in the construction of the original house, the addition, the dormer and even in the repairs and alterations of the building.

Like the other farm buildings on the Gellatly Nut Farm Park site, the house has value for its simple yet functional design, its use of local materials and its early building techniques. The house is also significant because it has survived, which in part is due to its location, design, materials, and construction. This early and unique farmhouse has undergone minimal change since the 1920’s.

*(Note: Poplar/Cottonwood: In researching the type of logs used in the construction of the barn and house, both poplar and cottonwood timber have been mentioned in the various reports and interpretation on the site. The cottonwoods are three species of poplars in the section Aegiros of the genus Populus, native to North America, Europe and western Asia. There are native cottonwood trees growing near the lake in the park. These would possibly have been part of the group of trees that would have provided the logs for the barn and the house.)

4.4 Heritage Value and Significance

The Gellatly House has heritage significance because it is a rare survivor of a pioneer vernacular farmhouse in its original surroundings and because of its historical association with an important pioneer family who helped to shape the farming pattern of the Okanagan Valley. The Gellatly House is a unique example of a log house turned into a 1920’s family farmhouse that was hand-built by a well- known pioneer who used local materials and early building methods. The house is an integral part of the Gellatly Nut Farm Regional Park, and helps give the site its unique sense of place and landmark status in the Central Okanagan.

The Gellatly House’s value lies not only with its significant and unique construction, but also with its continuity and its strong community and government connections and support. The Gellatly House as part of the Gellatly Nut Farm Regional Park site is a well-known destination and landmark for local residents and a tourist site of special interest for visitors.

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4.5 Alterations and Additions History and Conservation Intervention

The Gellatly House has undergone a number of changes since it was built by Jack Gellatly in 1905. The original 22’ x 17’ two-storey log house provided ample space for Jack, who was single at the time. There was an enclosed shed roof entry off the back door that led into the kitchen. (Refer to: Historic Photo #2) This early shed entry would have been removed when the 1920’s addition was added.

Jack moved to the U.S.A. to attend University about 1910. During the time Jack was in the United States, one of David Gellatly Senior’s hired men lived in the log house. Jack returned to the property around 1919 with his wife and young son. In order to accommodate his family, Jack built a large addition onto the main floor of the log house as well as the second floor north dormer. He also stuccoed almost the entire house in order to give the whole building a more ‘modern’ and uniform finish.

Since the 1920’s renovations the house has had fairly minor interior and exterior changes. Many of the changes have occurred with the installation of modern plumbing, electricity and heating in order to bring modern comforts to the farmhouse. The house was used as a seasonal home by Bill Gellatly and his wife Pearl. For about 17 or 18 years from April to November, the couple would travel to Westbank from their home in Powell River to look after the nut farm. The house remained the same during this time. After the farm was sold, renters made some changes to the house to make it more comfortable to live in; such as the addition of an upstairs bathroom. Once the farm was turned into a regional park, a couple of interior changes occurred including the dormer bedroom being dry-walled and converted into the Gellatly Nut Farm Society’s office and board room.

Should the house change its function, alterations may be necessary. These alterations should have a minimal impact on the structure’s exterior and interior as based on the Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Historic Places in Canada. Future adaptive reuse of the main floor for interpretation (e.g. ‘living history’ as recommended by the 2003 Concept Plan) and the use of the second floor for office, board room and archival space with limited public access would also be appropriate for the Gellatly House.

1920’s Addition, Dormer and Rock Dash Stucco

Addition When Jack Gellatly returned to the farm bringing his wife and son, it would have been apparent that the two-storey log house was too small for his family. Jack built a large addition to the cabin that more than doubled the main floor living area. The addition created a large dining room and living room, as well as a covered front porch and back porch. (Refer to: Historic Photo #3) Intervention As this addition is important to the heritage value of the house, no interventions are recommended.

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There have been subsequent alterations to the front and back porches. These changes and interventions will be further discussed.

Dormer A second floor north dormer was added above the new addition. (Refer to: Historic Photo #4) This room may have begun as a screened-in sleeping porch during the hot Okanagan summers. Jack made interior shutters that could close off the screened window areas from the elements. This room was not used as a bedroom until Ferne Jean (Jack’s niece) and her family came to help take care of Jack in 1948 to 1949. This screened room became their bedroom for the year or so they lived at the farm. The three screened windows were replaced with glass windows likely during the time that the Leslie’s owned the farm and rented it out. This change occurred around the same time that the upstairs bathroom was installed. A re-used wood panel door, too short for the opening, has been installed more recently. This room again underwent changes when the Society in 2005/2006 had the room drywalled, the ceiling stippled, new vinyl slider windows installed on the north wall and the west wall window was partially removed in order to put in a window air conditioning unit. The room’s interior has been significantly altered with the latest renovations. Intervention: As the replaced windows have an impact on the exterior façade, it is recommended that the north wall vinyl slider window be replaced with a wood window similar in style to the simple wood window located on the east wall. The air conditioner window unit should be removed and a simple wood window be installed in this space. The dormer room has had much of its heritage materials (except for the wood floor and mouldings) removed and/or significantly altered. As the room’s use will likely continue as an office space for the Society, it is recommended that the room’s finishes remain as they are. Perhaps at a future time, restoration of this room would be appropriate.

Stucco Most of the exterior of the house, both the new frame addition and the log house, was finished with rock dash stucco. The exceptions include the lap siding that was put on the front and the back of the house underneath the porch roof and the dormer that was sided with cedar wood shingles. Intervention: As the stucco finish is important to the heritage value of the house, the stucco finish should not be removed. The lap siding also should not be removed as it is an earlier alteration that may have happened when the house was stuccoed.

Installation and Upgrades of the Utilities and Fire Protection

Over the years the house has been modernized and upgraded with the installation of utilities.

Electricity Electricity was installed in the house between 1948 and 1949. The electrical panel has been installed in

10 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn a very visible location on the west wall of the partially filled in back porch wall. (Refer to: Photo #5) Some of the house’s interior wiring has been located on the walls, ceilings, and along the mouldings rather than within the walls or ceilings. Intervention: The electrical panel should be moved to a less visible area, either boxed-in, lowered, or moved to the inside wall of the back porch. The interior wiring should be concealed, unless it impacts on the wall or ceiling finishes.

Water The original water well was located on the south side of the house near the kitchen window. When electricity was installed in the late 1940’s, a water pump was later installed which brought running water into the house. A hot water tank was also installed. The downstairs bathroom was likely plumbed around this time. The pump (removed when hooked up to the municipal water system) and the hot water tank (still is) were located in the south-west corner of the utility room behind the bathroom. Intervention: As this room has undergone a number of changes over the years, it is recommended that in order for it to become a more usable space in the house, the appliances such as the washer and dryer should be removed. The area where the water lines and the hot water tank are located should be enclosed in a closet area that is accessible but not visible.

Heat, Ventilation, Insulation The house was originally heated with wood stoves and pipes. The chimney, which rests on top of the log wall, is still visible on the north wall of the second storey hall. The vertical log walls have been insulated using moss in the interior walls of the log house. The pipe holes are visible in the dining room, the living room and the main floor hall ceiling across from the bathroom. In the early 1960’s Jack put in an oil heater. The oil heater was installed in the north-west corner of the house (in the dining room). Also in 1966, shaving insulation was put in the attic space above the dining room and living. The pipe hole created for the oil heater in the wall and up through the roof overhang can still be seen on the exterior of the house. A gas heater was installed in the same area during the 1990’s for the renters. (Refer to: Photo #6) Intervention: The gas heater has a major visual impact on the living room and on the exterior of the house. It is recommended that the heater either be removed and an alternate less intrusive heating method be found or the gas heater be partially enclosed or covered to make it less visible in the dining room. The heating and ventilation of the house should be further examined to determine the best way to provide constant and consistent heating for the whole building, which will be necessary for both the structure and for displaying and storing artifacts and archival material. The attic and walls (especially on the addition) should also be evaluated to determine where additional insulation is needed. It is important that these changes have as minimal impact as possible on the exterior and interior of the building.

It is also recommended that heating pipes (for interpretation only, not to be used) and two vintage style electric heaters (wood stove style) be installed in the south-east corner of the dining room and in the

11 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn second storey hall next to the chimney. These could provide extra heat in the winter and would have interpretive value.

Fire Suppression System Most heritage buildings are lost because of fire. The Gellatly House does not have a fire suppression system. A sprinkler system has been considered for the house and the new water lines have been installed in anticipation of this. Intervention: For the protection and long term survival of the Gellatly House, it is recommended that a sprinkler system be installed with as minimal impact on the house as possible.

Shingle Roof Covered with Metal Sheeting and Rolled Asphalt

In 1948/1949, the cedar shingle roof was covered with metal sheeting, both corrugated and flat. Metal sheeting was likely used because it was cheaper, easier and faster to install and may last longer than re- shingling the roof. The south side of the log house roof was covered with rolled asphalt, possibly because Jack did not have enough metal to cover all of the roof surfaces. Intervention: The metal and asphalt roof has a huge impact on the heritage character and look of the house. It is recommended that the metal and asphalt roof be removed and a new cedar shingle roof be installed.

Front Porch Enclosed and the Back Porch Alterations

Front Porch Enclosed The front and back porch were built very similar to each other. The front porch was enclosed and turned into a finished sunroom around 1966 by Jack Gellatly. (Refer to: Photo #7) Two sets of two windows plus a single window were installed in the enclosed porch. A wood panel door and screen door were also installed. Horizontal wood planks were put on to finish the exterior walls of the porch. A floor was installed in the sunroom, which has raised the floor up off the ground. The north side door that leads into the living room was likely added at this time to provide access into the new space. The enclosed porch wall on the south side extends out from the original log wall about 5”. The enclosed front porch has added to the interior space of the house. It shows how Jack continued to make changes to his house to make it more livable and comfortable. Many of the materials used (e.g. the windows, the door and the siding) are likely re-used building materials that Jack picked up to use in his new sunroom. Intervention: The enclosed porch should be kept as an interior space. This porch adds to the vernacular style of the building.

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Back Porch Alterations The back porch has remained open with one section of the west wall (north-west corner of the original opening) enclosed with horizontal siding. This may have been done in order to install the electric meter and/or to create additional storage in this corner of the porch. The second alteration is the addition of a plywood counter with a lower plywood board under the counter between the corner post and the middle post. This rustic counter is used to display and sell the nuts in the fall. The Gellatly Nut Farm Society has continued Jack and Bill’s tradition of selling the nuts from the back porch area. The counter may have been added by the society. (Refer to: Photo #8) Intervention: It is recommended that the partial wall be removed and the electric meter box be moved to a less visible location. The rustic counter used to sell the farm’s nuts seems to fit in with the rustic vernacular nature of the house and the farm. The counter should be painted to match the posts it is attached to in order to keep the wood in good condition. This area should continue to be used for selling nuts by the Society.

Upstairs Washroom

An upstairs washroom was installed in the south end of the east bedroom (originally Alan Gellatly’s bedroom) during the late 1980’s or early 1990’s when the farm was rented out. The washroom, which included a toilet, sink and bathtub was removed after the farm was purchased by the Central Okanagan Regional District. The removal of the plumbing, toilet, sink and bathtub has left holes in the floor, damage on the walls and paint colours that show where the washroom walls were. There is also an exterior vent pipe on the roof and on the exterior wall.

Intervention: There is no need to put in an upstairs washroom, as the house may not be used as a private residence in the future. The exterior washroom pipe vent should be removed from the roof and the south wall.

Main Floor Washroom and Shower

The original log house did not have a washroom. There were two rooms on the main floor, the kitchen located in the west (present location) and the all purpose sitting room in the east. Sometime after the 1920’s addition was built, the east room was sectioned off into its present configuration. A small hallway led from the kitchen past the new washroom and into the new smaller area that Jack used as an office and was later used as a utility room for the pump and hot water tank (although the tank was first located in the washroom). Jack built a shower under the stairs by excavating down into the ground to create a concrete shower area that you stepped down into. Light was let into this space by Jack cutting out part of three stair rises and attaching hard plastic on the inside of the shower. The shower was closed off (this space is still accessible, but has water pipes running across it) when the washroom was renovated by the Regional District two to three years ago. (Refer to: Photo #9)

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Intervention A usable washroom is necessary in the house. The opening up of the shower area and the restoration of this unique feature would have significant interpretation value. The shower would be a good example of the ingenuity and resourcefulness of early pioneers.

As this building is a significant resource as part of the Gellatly Nut Farm, it is very important to conserve the exterior and interior’s character defining elements in order to maintain its heritage value. As part of the Gellatly House Conservation Report, a set of architectural drawings have been completed by Peter Chataway. These drawings include: floor plans and elevations (side views) and identify basic uses, structure and materials of the buildings. (Refer to: The Gellatly House Building Plans #1)

4.6 The Gellatly House Condition Report

View of north-west corner of Gellatly House Photo #10

It is important to thoroughly document and evaluate the existing condition of a heritage building such as the Gellatly House. The evaluation of the condition of the materials and the elements of the building will help to determine the appropriate intervention necessary to ensure that the Gellatly House’s heritage value is preserved and protected. Minimal intervention will be emphasized in which repair of original materials and elements will be recommended. Replacement of elements will only be

14 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn recommended if the material is too deteriorated to repair. Repair rather than replace character- defining elements. Where character-defining elements are too severely deteriorated to repair, and where sufficient physical evidence exists, replace them with new elements that match the forms, materials and detailing of sound versions of the same elements. (Source: Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Historic Places in Canada, p. 7)

EXTERIOR

The Gellatly House is comprised of the original 1905 two-storey vertical log house (22’ x 16’) and the 1920’s main floor and second floor north dormer additions. The front and the back (east and west) house extensions included a new interior living space and an exterior porch area (although the front porch was enclosed and turned into a sunroom). The front door and the front porch face east towards the orchard and the lake. The back door is oriented west towards Whitworth Road. The windows would have provided a cross breeze through the house helping to keep it cooler in the hot Okanagan summers. The house is a good and unique example of a vernacular farm house that has changed and grown over time as the family needs changed.

Roof

The original log house has a steep pitch gable roof while the addition and the upper north dormer each have a lower-pitch gable roof. The original log house’s roof was originally finished with cedar wood shingles. There was also a wooden cap along the ridge of the roof. The roof’s gable ends are oriented east and west. The 1920’s addition gable roof is also oriented east and west. The peak of the addition roof is located slightly to the north of the original roof. The roof was also finished with cedar wood shingles and a wood cap. The dormer, located on the north side of the addition’s roof was also finished with cedar wood shingles. Most of the cedar shingles were replaced with a new corrugated or sheet metal/tin roof in 1948/49 with metal caps along each of the roof peaks. (Refer to: Photo #10) The addition and dormer have a corrugated metal roof. The original log house has sheet metal (possibly tin) on the north side and rolled asphalt on the south side of the roof. It is likely that the metal and asphalt roofing was placed directly on top of the wood shingles, as removing the shingles would have been unnecessary. This metal and asphalt roof is still on the house today. The only section of the roof that was not covered with the metal sheeting and which still has the original wood shingles is located on the north side of the roof along the front edge of the dormer.

There are narrow fascia boards on all of the roofs’ gable ends. Fascia boards were added on the ends of the roof when the metal eaves troughs were installed, as the historic photographs show the exposed rafters on the north and south ends of the roof and on the dormer roof as well. Metal sheeting has been wrapped around the edge of the roof and nailed onto the fascia boards. This has likely kept the roof secure and dry over the many years since the metal roof was installed.

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There are seventeen (2” x 6”) exposed rafters on the north side of the roof. The roof overhang extends about 12”. A narrow fascia board has been added to the edge of the roof over top of the rafters, onto which the eaves trough is attached. There is a drain pipe in the north-east corner of the house. The dormer has 9 exposed rafters on the east and the west end of the roof.

The south side of the enclosed porch has four exposed rafters. The south side of the enclosed porch has a fascia board but the eaves trough is missing. The board is partially painted, indicating that there was likely an eaves trough at one time. The porch roof extends out and over the stucco on the log house wall about 15 ½”. The original section of the house has nine thinner exposed rafters with a 10” overhang. A fascia board has been added to the edge of the roof, with an eaves trough attached to most of its length (except for the east corner of the roof). A drain pipe in the south-west corner of the house is attached to the eaves trough on the south end of the porch roof. A drain pipe, attached to the second storey roof in the south-west corner, drains into the porch roof’s eaves trough.

The overhangs on the addition’s west and east sides are about 1’ 6”. There are 28 cross braces exposed on the south side and 29 on the north side of the overhangs. The cross braces vary in widths (3” to 3 ½”). The north side and south side of the building had newer aluminum eaves troughs and drain pipes installed. A fascia board was added to the roof edge and exposed rafters so that the eaves troughs could be attached. The north side of the building has eaves troughs on the original section of the house and the back porch addition. The eaves trough stops short of the east end of the board. If looks like the south side of the front porch may have had an eaves trough as there is a fascia board added with only part of it painted, indicating there once was something attached to it. Eaves troughs have not been added to the sides of the dormer roof. It may be appropriate to remove these aluminum eaves troughs and drain pipes and replace them with an older wooden style, more in keeping with the vernacular character of the house. The north-east corner has a drain pipe.

There is one brick chimney located in the middle of the north side of the original log house roof along the edge of the log wall. The base of the chimney sits on the top of a couple of vertical logs that have been cut down in order to accommodate the chimney. The brick chimney is 1’ 10” wide and is 3’ 6 ¼” high from the base (of the cut logs) to the top of the log wall and the ceiling of the house. The 6” circle/hole can also be seen in the brick chimney, which has had the wall finishes removed in this area in order to open up the wall in the upper floor hallway. When the stove pipe hole is opened up, daylight can be seen at the top of the chimney. The exposed vertical logs can also be seen in this area (3’ 6” exposed height from the floor to the top of the logs where the chimney base is located).

In the center of the south side of the roof near edge there is bathroom vent. There is also a metal casing (measures 58” long and 12” wide and begins about 1” to 1 ½” below the roof overhang) that has been attached to the stucco wall possibly to accommodate the bathroom venting on the exterior of the house because of the thick solid log wall. (Refer to: Photo #11)

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Condition The metal roofing is in fair to poor condition. The roof is starting to fail in many areas and will need to be repaired and will require some replacement of the roof materials. There are many visible repairs to the roof, including repairs sealed with tar on the north-east log house roof. The edges of many of the sections of the metal are coming up, so no longer protecting the roof as it once did. There is likely some water damage in these areas. The only section of the roof that still has the original wood shingles is on the north side along the edge of the dormer. These shingles are in poor condition; deteriorating with lots of debris and moss growing on them.

The cross braces/strapping are in fair condition. The wood has been protected under the overhang. The rafters are in fair condition. One of the rafters has been cut off (near north-west corner of house) near the stove pipe hole in the overhang of the roof. The fascia boards are in fair to poor condition. A piece of the fascia board is missing from the middle of the north side of the house. The fascia boards are weathered.

The brick chimney is in poor condition. Part of the chimney cap is missing. There is lots of black soot on the bricks. There is a repair on the bottom. The chimney needs to be repaired and re-pointed and may need some replacement of the bricks.

Intervention The roof should be replaced as soon as possible as it is beginning to fail in many areas. It is recommended that the roof’s supports, sheathing, strapping and rafters be repaired and materials replaced as necessary. The exposed strapping/braces and rafters should be protected using oil,* as has been done in the past. The roof should be re-shingled using cedar wood shingles of very high quality (i.e. the #1 Blue Label Western Red Cedar 18” length and 5” exposed).

The fascia boards, on top of the rafter ends, were added so that the eaves troughs could be attached to the house. These boards should be repaired if possible, or replaced if necessary. The boards should be painted prior to the addition of new eaves troughs. The rest of the fascia boards should also be repaired if possible or replaced if necessary and properly prepped and painted.

The eave troughs and drain pipes should be replaced with a ‘heritage’ profile eaves trough that is more in keeping with the character of the building. The drain pipes should be inspected to ensure that they are draining properly away from the house foundation.

The chimney should be evaluated to determine what repairs are necessary to the brick and mortar in order to stabilize it. The brick will need to be evaluated to determine if any bricks will need to be replaced and to replace any missing bricks with ‘old’ reused brick that is a similar colour and vintage. It will be necessary to re-point the bricks. The chimney bricks will need the black soot cleaned off.

*(Note: Old motor oil was likely applied to the wood to protect it, but this is not an appropriate finish for the restored exterior wood. Further research should be undertaken to determine the best type of oil (i.e. linseed oil) to

17 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn preserve the wood, to ensure that it is environmentally safe, and also to choose oil that is the least flammable. If this is not possible, then a stain that replicates the look of oiled wood would be appropriate.)

Walls

The original log house walls were constructed using vertical cottonwood/poplar logs standing on end. These 10” to 12” in diameter logs were placed on a sill plate and capped at the top. The spaces between the logs were chinked with mortar. The main floor‘s vertical log walls were first built and the second storey’s vertical log walls were built on top of the first floor. (Refer to: Historic Photo #2) This wall construction method of closely spaced vertical posts resting on a sill is an early method of wood construction that was employed by the French in some of the 18th century Forts and trading posts, so known as the Hudson Bay method. On top of the main floor windows one or two horizontal logs have been inserted above the windows to hold in the window frame. Moss was used as insulation on the inside of the log walls. Siding of some kind would often be utilized to protect log structures from weathering. As Jack left for the United States for University about four to five years after he built the log house, it was left as it was until his return around 1919-1920.

In the 1920’s, a 14’ x 36’ addition and large north side dormer was constructed using frame construction. Board and batten siding may have been put on the new addition to finish the walls. The stucco has broken apart on the east wall next to the north-east corner of the house, exposing what looks like board and batten siding with building paper between the wood and the stucco. (Refer to: Photo #12) Board and batten siding has been used on the 1945 cabin, which may indicate that this is a finish that Jack was comfortable with. Within a short time, Jack stuccoed the log house (except in the front and back porch areas) and the addition likely in order to give it a more uniform and modern appearance.

The addition and most of the original log house was finished with rock dash stucco. Rock dash is a technique for applying the stucco using pea gravel with the mud. Immediately after regular stucco is applied to the wall, stone pebbles or small rocks are thrown against the wall surface so that they stick to the wet stucco finish. Successfully applying the finish requires some skill and practice. Rock dash stucco was particularly popular in mission and bungalow buildings of the early 20th century

The east façade’s front porch was enclosed with horizontal 7” wide boards. They have been stained a reddish-orange (cedar) colour, which has worn off in areas. The original corner post has been covered with 3” wide corner boards. There is also a narrow horizontal board at the top of the enclosed wall and at the roof level (below the stucco).

The dormer walls were finished with cedar wood shingles on the three exposed sides (to match with the original cedar roof). The east wall of the dormer has had strips of metal (tin) flashing attached along the bottom edge of the roof and the dormer. This may be where the wood shingles have failed and this was a quick way to repair this area.

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The log walls (front and back porch area) have been sided with horizontal lap siding that has been nailed on, as some of the nails are visible (exposed width is between 6 ¾” t 7 ½’ width, between 5/8” to 7/8” thickness at the bottom of the board). Lap siding is one of the earliest types of finish siding. The siding has been painted a pink-beige colour, other colour layers include from most recent to older beige, white, yellow/cream.

The north end of the west wall of the porch has been partially filled in from the edge of the house to the first post (as seen in historic photograph). This section has been sided with 5 ¾” drop siding (5” exposed). The two remaining posts are original. A counter/storage area has been put in between the 5” square south-west corner post and the second post. The porch is 6’ 3” wide. The porch floor is a poured concrete slab, with two major cracks visible extending from the house to the middle post, and from the house to the center of the shelf. There is a piece of old carpet on top of the concrete.

The stucco has been painted a grey/cream colour. The wood planks that were used to enclose the front are stained orange-brown. The shingles on the dormer have been stained/oiled a dark brown colour. The siding on the back porch has been painted a pink-beige colour (the west and east living room window moldings are the same/similar colour).

Condition The stucco walls are in fair to good condition. There are cracks visible in the walls, especially from settling near the window and door frames and mouldings. There are major cracks from the roof to the windows on the east wall. Poor repairs in the stucco can also be seen. Next to the window on the north wall at the east end has a large crack in the plaster from the right-hand edge of the sill to the ground. Large cracks in the stucco also include the east wall addition. Moss is growing on the edge of the stucco near the dirt of the flower beds and on the bottom of the walls.

The shingle siding on the dormer is in fair condition. There are some deteriorated, weathered and missing shingles. The corner boards are also weathered. The wood shingle walls have not been painted or stained; instead they look like they were once protected with motor oil. The wood is beginning to dry out as the wood is fading from dark brown to yellow or lighter in some areas. This indicates that there is little oil left on the wood to provide protection from the elements.

The lap siding is in fair condition. Many of the boards are have horizontal cracks and some breakage, which indicate a possible weakness in the wood or design. The back porch siding is fairly weathered with some bare wood/chipped /bubbly paint and holes in it. The newer wood planks on the back porch’s partial wall and the front enclosed porch’s exterior walls appear to be in good condition.

Intervention The stucco walls should be repaired with the same rock dash technique. The walls should be prepped and painted. The walls should be colour sampled to determine the original or early colour scheme of the house.

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The wood has not been properly protected for a very long time. It is recommended that as much of the exterior walls and details be repaired and refinished as possible. Where replacement is necessary, new shingles, siding and trims should replicate the deteriorated pieces. The wood should be prepped and painted as part of the house’s heritage colour scheme.

The dormer wood shingles will need to be protected from the elements. Old motor oil was likely applied to the wood to protect it, but this is not an appropriate finish for the restored exterior wood. Further research should be undertaken to determine the best type of oil (i.e. linseed oil) to preserve the wood, to ensure that it is environmentally safe, and also to choose oil that is the least flammable. If this is not possible, then a stain that replicates the look of oiled wood would be appropriate.

It is recommended that all the vegetation and irrigation heads that are close to the building be removed. This will prevent further and future damage to the building’s walls, foundation and roof. There is a wooden trellis that has been added to the north wall, in between the two windows, this should be removed.

Windows and Trims

Most of the windows are original to either the log house or the addition to the house. There are a number of different windows in the Gellatly House.

The original log house has three original main floor windows located on the east, south (west end) and west walls that are of a similar style. These three windows are single-hung vertical windows with each sash divided into two panes of glass by a vertical mullion creating four window panes (2 x 2). The two window sashes are 32” wide x 61” high. The mullions are 3/8” wide and they angle back to the glass for a total width of about 1”. The bottom window sash slides upwards on a rope and pulley system in behind the upper window. The ropes (part of the rope and pulley system) for opening the windows have been removed on all of the windows. The plain exterior window mouldings are 5 ½” wide, with about a 4” sill depth and 1 ¾” thick. The sill extends past the side mouldings for a total length of 44 ½”.

The south window has had 2 ½” wide newer moulding strips added overlapping the sides and top of the original moulding (3” to 3 ¼” exposed original moulding plus the 2 ½” newer strip). These strips may have been added to seal the edges of the stucco walls due to deterioration. The horizontal window next to this window (south wall utility room) has also had similar newer moulding strips added on the sides of the original moulding.

The south wall’s central window is a horizontal window that may have been added after the log house was built. (Refer to: Photo #13) This window is a different shape and size then the other main floor log house windows. It may have been added to let in more light to this room when the bathroom was added or the when the front porch was enclosed. The moulding is similar to the other window

20 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn mouldings, although the sill does not extend past the side mouldings, like the other window sills and the sill is also thinner than the other sills. The window has recently had a smaller modern metal sliding window replace the earlier wood window. The sides of the window have been filled in and a vent added for the dryer. This change was likely done to accommodate the renters when a washer and dryer were installed in the house.

The main floor addition has three single and one double vertical single hung windows that are 52” high and about 32” wide. Two of the single windows are located in the dining room’s west and north (west end) walls. The living room has one single window on the north (east end) wall and the double window on the east (north end) wall. The plain exterior window mouldings are 5 ½” wide, with a 4” sill depth. The 4 ½” deep sill extends past the side mouldings (about ½” past on each side, ¾” deep from side moulding, ½” thick) for a total length of about 44 ½”.

The exterior east windows that were added when the porch was enclosed are vertical windows divided into four panes of glass by four horizontal mullions. Next to the door there is one single window frame. There are two sets of two windows in the south-east and the south corner of the enclosed porch. Each window has a thin strip of 2” moulding on the four sides of the window. The window sashes have older bubbled glazing, which likely indicates that they are re-used windows from another building. Each of the windows has a bottom vent hole to let in fresh air.

There are four second floor bedroom windows in the original log house. These wood windows are simple slider windows with two panes of glass separated by a center vertical mullion (8 ½” wide x 6 ¼” high in total). (Refer to: Photo #14)

(Note: Window mouldings are flush with stucco. This may suggest that the addition had board and batten siding with the mouldings attached on top of the siding. When the stucco was applied to whole exterior, the mouldings were left in place. The window mouldings are also flush with the siding on the walls in the front and back porches.)

Condition The windows and mouldings are in fair to poor condition. There has been little or no maintenance of the windows over the years. Most of the window frames and sashes have bare weathered wood, peeling paint and even some cracked glazing (west porch window). The putty around the windows is falling off and worn. There are also many staples, nails and holes in the mouldings. These were made when the windows were winterized with the use of wood strips nailed into the mouldings to hold the plastic or stapling the plastic directly onto the mouldings.

The windows on the south and west sides of the house have sustained more damage because of the intense sun and wind exposure. The windows that have suffered the most damage include: the two south side windows on the main floor (kitchen and utility) and the two west side windows on the second floor (west bedroom). Most of the windows open, however they are either not opening as they were built (i.e. using the rope and pulley system on the single hung windows) or they are not opening smoothly.

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Intervention The window frames, sashes, glazing and mouldings should be carefully repaired, prepped, primed and painted with two high quality topcoats in an appropriate heritage colour on the interior and the exterior of the windows. Only replace deteriorated materials that cannot be repaired. Any replacement of original material should be with the same wood and should be replicated to match the replaced parts. Remove any attached wood strips that have been added on the mouldings. The single hung windows should be repaired with new ropes so that they will once again open up as they were built. If possible replace broken or cracked glazing with re-used older wavy/bubbled glazing.

It is also recommended that exterior storm windows be made for the main floor windows and interior storm windows for the second floor windows. Storm windows will help prevent heat loss and will also help to protect the original windows on the main floor from the elements. The second floor interior storms will also be easier to remove and re-install as needed. The storm window should look very similar to the window it is being installed with.

Ongoing maintenance is a very important part of the building use and care, and good window conservation is not exception… A good overhaul and retrofit will ensure their (windows) longevity and upgrade their functionality for another 100 years. This is more likely to provide long term solutions than inserting a replacement window and throwing out the original frame, sash and glass. Most of today’s manufactured replacement windows carry warranties of about 8-10 years and failures are usually not repairable. Maintenance and conservation are very green behaviors. (Source: Upgrading Windows in Heritage Buildings, p 2) The rehabilitation of the windows will ensure that they will last at least another eighty to a hundred years as the wood is of excellent quality and is virtually unavailable in today’s market place and forest. It is also recommended that sealing/caulking and weather-stripping be used to draft proof and insulate window frames.

Doors and Trims

The east front porch has a door with a screen. The front door is wood four panel style. The screen door is a simple older style, as is the back porch’s screen door. Under the bottom of the door frame, there are at least three layers of plywood and wood used to build up the floor that are exposed, as there is no piece of wood closing/sealing off this section of the wall under the doors. The screen door protects this area somewhat, when the screen is closed. However this gap allows rodents, insects, etc. underneath the porch floor.

The west back porch has a fir door with a screen. It is a simple two panel door with the top panel glazed (1’11” wide by 1’ 11” high) and a wood insert (2’ 11 ¼” high by 1’ 11” wide) in the bottom panel. The door has 4” wide sides, a 3 ½” top and a 8 ¾”-9” bottom. The door is painted and orange-red colour. The door handle is an older style with a worn metal 2 ¼” x 7” plate and round handle. The door sill is 11” deep. The threshold is a piece of wood with a metal piece of weather stripping about 3” wide. The

22 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn fir threshold is ¾” thick and 3’ 8” long. Newer weather stripping (plastic and rubber) have been attached to the exterior of the door frame. The depth/thickness of the exterior wall to the door is 11 ½” to accommodate the vertical log wall. The back porch (west) screen door is an older style, although it is likely not original. The doorway is 6’ 8 ¾” high and 2’ 8” wide.

The door mouldings, like the rest of the house mouldings are simple with 5 3/8” to 5 ½” wide pieces of ¾” thick moulding with the top piece running the whole length of the opening and width of the side mouldings.

Condition The east front porch door is in poor to fair condition. It is very weathered and the paint is flaking off with bare areas showing. The door also does not open. There appears to be newer weather stripping and a door jam and newer sill. The screen door is in fair condition, it has peeling paint on the wood and the screen needs to be repaired.

The west porch door is in good condition, although there are holes and staples, wear and tear, scuffs visible. A thin board has been attached onto the inside (kitchen) of the door. This board has likely been added to prevent heat loss through the spaces in the panels. The screen door is in fair to good condition. The screening has pulled out of the metal strip on the exterior of the door that is meant to hold the screen in place.

The door mouldings are in fair to good condition, although there is some peeling paint and bare weathered areas. The door thresholds are well-worn.

Intervention The doors should be repaired, prepped and painted in an appropriate heritage colour scheme. The thin board on the inside of the door should be removed. The front porch door will need to be repaired so that it can open. The door frame (at the bottom) needs to be properly sealed off. As screen doors were necessary for air flow through the house, it is recommended that the screen doors be repaired and repainted and continue to be used.

West Back Porch and Entry

The north end of the west wall of the porch has been partially filled in from the edge of the house to the first post. (Refer to: Photo #5) This section has been sided with 5 ¾” drop siding (5” exposed). The two remaining posts are original. A counter/storage area has been put in between the 5” square south-west corner post and the second post. The porch is 6’ 3” wide. The porch floor is a poured concrete slab, with two major cracks visible extending from the house to the middle post, and from the house to the center of the shelf. There is a piece of old carpet on top of the concrete. The porch ceiling, height is 8’ 8” is comprised of boards (with 7 ¼” exposed) running in a north-south direction. There is also a porch

23 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn light, electrical panel, various wires all attached to the exterior of the walls, and attic opening (no cover) in which you can see the roof structure.

Condition The porch floor is a poured concrete slab, with two major cracks visible extending from the house to the middle post, and from the house to the center of the shelf.

Intervention Repair material if needed, prep and paint.

Foundation

The original log house’s foundation consists of the vertical logs either placed directly on a concrete or rock sill plate. There appears to be a 3 ¼” to 4 ½” concrete footing along the edge of the house on the west and south walls. This concrete footing looks like it extends to the end of the log house and stops at the enclosed front porch. Where the shower was installed underneath the stairs, concrete was poured in the excavated area up to the ground level. When the municipal water was installed in the house, this area’s concrete walls were likely where the pipes came through to get into the house. The addition appears to be built on a poured concrete pad, which is the floor in the living room and dining room areas.

Condition The house foundations appear to be in good stable condition. Although deterioration is not evident, the vertical logs have likely been placed directly on the concrete/stone sill plates, without any vapour barrier and the garden soil may be in contact with the logs. There has been some settling of the house, as there are minor and some major cracks evident in the stucco walls.

Intervention The house’s foundation should be thoroughly assessed to determine if there is any deterioration of the sill and base of the logs and to what the extent is. If deterioration is found then the log ends should be repaired and put on a proper sealed concrete footing. The foundation of the addition should also be assessed to determine if and what is needed to ensure the stabilization of the building. The garden surrounding most of the house should be moved away from the house’s foundation and walls. A layer of drainage rock between the walls and foundation and the soil would help to prevent further or future deterioration especially of the wood structure.

Exterior Paint Colour

The exterior has not been painted a consistent colour scheme. This is likely because sections of the

24 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn house have been repainted as needed, using whatever paint colour that was available.

The exterior stucco has been painted a grey-white colour. It appears that it has been this same colour for a long time.

The wood elements on the back west porch (including the screen door and moulding, window and moulding and the partial plank wall) and the west window on the addition have fairly recently been painted a pink-beige colour. The back door has been painted orange. The second floor windows and mouldings look like they were once painted white, but are now bare. The north windows and mouldings have been painted white. The dormer windows are white on the west side and north (new white vinyl windows) side with oiled wood mouldings. The east side living room window and moulding has been painted a cream colour. The screen door, door, enclosed porch windows and the second floor windows have all been painted white. The mouldings on the enclosed porch and the wood plank siding have been stained reddish-orange. The second floor east window mouldings are also white. The south windows and mouldings (except for the enclosed porch mouldings which are stained) are white. The fascia boards are either bare wood or have been painted white.

Recommendations The new heritage colour scheme should either be determined through colour sampling the major elements of the exterior of the house by sanding in an inconspicuous spot. Or the colour scheme should be based on an appropriate heritage colour scheme, using heritage colours such as Historical True Colours for Western Canada created for Benjamin Moore and funded by the Vancouver Heritage Foundation.

The recommended guidelines for determining the exterior house colour are as follows:

The stucco should be painted a light cream or buff. (e.g. Benjamin Moore VC-5 Dunbar Buff, VC-6 Edwardian Buff or VC-8 Mount Pleasant Buff) The window and door mouldings should be painted a contrasting colour. Presently the mouldings are the same light colour as the windows. A contrasting heritage colour would give the building more character and style. (e.g. Benjamin Moore High Gloss VC-33 Harris Brown) The window frames and sashes, doors and frames and fascia boards should be painted a light cream, buff or possibly white, similar to the stucco wall colour. (e.g. Benjamin Moore VC-1 Oxford Ivory) The dormer wood shingles should be oiled or stained to continue the deep cedar brown colour that is still evident on some of the shingles. The wood planks on the enclosed east porch should either be stained the same colour or a deep cedar brown colour similar to the dormer wall shingles.

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INTERIOR

The Gellatly House’s main floor is made up of the original kitchen; the original sitting room turned into a washroom, hall and utility room; the addition of a dining room, living room and enclosed porch. The staircase leads up to the second floor hall, the west bedroom, the east bedroom and the dormer screen room/bedroom/office.

The important heritage features/elements of the interior that should be preserved are: the ceilings, the walls, the windows and the doors, the mouldings and trims, the kitchen cupboards, the washroom and shower (to be restored for interpretation).

Ceilings

The main floor ceilings are about 107” high in the original log cabin. The addition and the bathroom are slightly less at 105” in height. The kitchen ceiling is finished with board and batten and quarter-round crown moulding. The bathroom also has wall board and quarter-round crown moulding on the ceiling, but without the battens. The utility room was been finished with unpainted (possibly fir) boards. The dining room and living room have been plastered, as they are the more formal living spaces. The enclosed porch, like the back porch has been finished with 7” to 7 ¼” wide shiplap planks on the ceiling. The second floor ceilings are lower at about 86” to 88” in height. The hall, east and west bedrooms’ ceilings have been covered with wall boards. The dormer has been re-finished with drywall. The house has had fluorescent lights added in many of the rooms. Most of the wiring is visible as it has been attached to the ceilings or the walls.

Condition Generally, the ceilings are in fair to good condition. The main floor wall board ceilings in the kitchen and bathroom are in good condition with some small holes and past repairs visible. The ceiling in the utility room has holes, because of the plumbing that once went through to the second floor washroom. The plaster ceilings in the addition have visible cracks and there appears to be some water damage in the north-east corner of the living room. The second floor ceiling in the east bedroom is in poor condition. There are many cracks, nails, holes and water damage visible (likely due to a leaking roof). The west bedroom wall board ceiling is in better condition.

Intervention The ceiling cracks, holes and any other damage should be carefully spot repaired. All of the ceilings should be re-painted, as part of a new heritage colour scheme that is appropriate for the building. The main floor hall ceiling has been partially lowered. This alteration should be removed to reveal the original ceiling.

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The present fluorescent lighting in the house does not add to the heritage character or atmosphere of the house and it actually detracts from it. Lighting for a heritage house of this period and style should be further researched to determine appropriate lighting that is more in keeping with the style of the building and should be part of the heritage interpretation of the house.

Walls

In the 1920’s, the dining room and living room walls were finished with lathe and plaster. The original log house walls have been mainly finished with wall board (pressed board) on the main floor and on the second floor. The second floor walls were also finished in the 1920’s, when the family moved back into the house. When the log house was originally built, the second floor was one open space. There are also built in bookcases and small closets in each of the bedrooms. The dormer room has been recently renovated and finished with new drywall.

Condition The lathe and plaster walls are in fair to good condition. There are surface cracks visible. The wall board is in poor to good condition, depending on the room and location. The east bedroom has significant water damage to the walls. The east bedroom’s walls have also suffered because of the addition and subsequent removal of the washroom at the south end of the room. Some of the wall board has been removed. The west bedroom’s and hall’s walls are in better condition. There are many holes and repairs evident in all the rooms. The bookcases are in fair to good condition.

Intervention The plaster and wall board walls should be carefully repaired, prepped and painted in a heritage colour scheme. Where the wall board is too badly damaged or missing, similar material should be used. The bookcases and closets should be repaired and painted as part of the heritage colour scheme.

Floor

The house’s main floor has a concrete base for the floor. The concrete floors have been covered with period linoleum. The enclosed porch has a raised floor. The second floor has 3” to 3 ¼” wide stained fir tongue in groove flooring that runs north and south throughout. The 5 ¾” to 6 ¼” subfloor (runs east to west) can be seen in the east bedroom. The two bedrooms have been covered with 1930’s to 1950’s period linoleum. (Refer to Photo #15) The west bedroom has rug on top of the linoleum. The dormer room has a wood floor that has been covered with rug as well.

Condition The concrete floor appears to be in good condition, although there are some cracks evident. The period linoleum on top of the floor is in poor to fair condition. There are many holes and worn areas. The second floor fir floor is in fair to good condition. There are holes in the east bedroom floor where the

27 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn plumbing for the bathroom was installed and later removed. The linoleum in the east bedroom is in poor condition as it is worn and has many holes. The flooring in the west bedroom and dormer room are covered and protected by the rug and is likely in good condition.

Intervention The concrete floors should be recovered with period reproduction linoleum. The original second storey wood flooring should be repaired and refinished. The carpet in the west bedroom and dormer room should be removed to expose the wood floors. Appropriate heritage style area rugs may be used.

Door and Window Mouldings

The house has simple painted or stained fir door and window mouldings that are 3 ¾” wide in the utility room; 4 ¼” wide in the dining room and living room. (Refer to: Photo #16) The door mouldings also have a 12” high plinth block. (Refer to: Photo #17) The kitchen does not have either door or window mouldings. The washroom has been finished with newer window and door mouldings. On the second floor the windows have a 1 ½” top moulding piece added in the two bedrooms. A similar moulding can be seen around the doors in the hallway and in the two bedrooms.

Condition The mouldings are in fair to good condition. The window and door mouldings show some wear throughout the house.

Intervention The window and door mouldings should be repaired, prepped and stained or repainted in an appropriate heritage colour. The dining room and living room mouldings and trims should be refinished in the same red-brown stain to match the existing finish. The rest of the mouldings in the house should be painted. It is recommended that any missing mouldings be replaced with the same materials and in the same size and profile. As there are a couple of different moulding widths and profiles in the house, the moulding that has survived should provide guidance to what is appropriate for each room. It is NOT recommended that one moulding be installed throughout the house.

Floor Moulding

The house has simple painted or stained fir floor mouldings that range between 9” to 9 ¼” in height in the more formal rooms and range between 5” to 7 ½” in the utilitarian rooms. Most of the mouldings have been finished off with quarter-round trim at the floor level. (Refer to: Photo #17) There are some missing or removed floor mouldings and quarter-round trim pieces in the building.

The dining room and living room have 9” to 9 ¼” high stained fir mouldings. They are plain flat ¾” thick

28 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn with quarter-round bottom trim. The kitchen has painted 5” to 5 ¾” mouldings without the quarter- round trim. The north wall has a ¾” trim that has been added to the top of the flat moulding piece. The washroom does not have any floor mouldings or trim. There are some plain fir mouldings in the utility room. The second floor bedrooms and hallway have 7” to 7 ½” high flat ¾” thick moulding that is finished with a quarter-round trim. Both bedrooms are missing sections of moulding and quarter-round trim. The moulding and trim have been removed from the hall.

Condition The floor mouldings are in fair to good condition. The floor mouldings show significant wear throughout the house. Most of the floor mouldings on the main and some on the second floor have survived, although much of the quarter-round trims are missing.

Intervention The floor mouldings and trim should be repaired, prepped and stained or repainted in an appropriate heritage colour. The dining room and living room mouldings and trims should be refinished in the same red-brown stain to match the existing finish. The rest of the mouldings in the house should be painted. It is recommended that any missing floor mouldings or quarter-round trim be replaced with the same materials and in the same size and profile. As there are a number of different moulding heights in the house, the moulding that has survived should provide guidance to what is appropriate for each room. It is NOT recommended that one moulding height be installed throughout the house.

Interior Washroom Windows

These are the only set of interior windows in the house. (Refer to: Photo #18) These windows, set high up next to the ceiling, were likely added to help increase the amount of natural light into the washroom. There is one vertical window with a horizontal mullion on the south washroom wall. The two sets of windows on the east wall each have a middle vertical mullion. The glazing is set into a natural fir frame.

Condition These windows are in good condition.

Intervention These windows should be repaired as needed. The wood should be protected using a clear stain.

Interior Doors

All of the Gellatly house wood doors, except for two similar doors, are different styles. In the living room there is a three panel stained fir door with brass knobs and plate with a window leading onto the enclosed porch and a five panel fir door leading into the utility room (which is now closed off in the

29 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn utility room as it is being used as a closet). The door between the dining room and the kitchen has been removed. The washroom door is a one panel door with an interesting character latch. The original three panel fir front door now leads onto the enclosed porch. The washroom door is a simple one panel painted door with an interesting latch that Ferne Jean remembers from when her uncle Jack lived in the house.

The second floor has two doors. The east bedroom’s door has been removed. The west bedroom door is a plain newer style wood door with glass knobs. The door leading from the hall to the dormer office is a three panel painted door with a privacy glass window and brass knobs and plate (similar to the living room door that leads onto the enclosed porch). This door is too short for the opening. The door may have been moved from the opening between the kitchen and the dining room at some time. Ferne Jean remembers that there was not a door, but a curtain in this opening for a very long time.

Condition The interior doors are in fair to good condition. The three main floor doors, except for the washroom door, are stained with brass knobs and plate. The washroom door and the two second floor doors have been painted. The doors all show wear and tear.

Intervention The doors that have damage should be carefully repaired. It is important to keep as much of the door’s original finish as possible when doing these repairs. New stain may be added to the doors, as long as the colour is matched. The painted doors should be carefully stripped and re-stained their original colour. The door handles should all work properly and will need repair work done if necessary. The west bedroom door should be replaced with a vintage panel door with brass knobs and plate. The east bedroom is missing and should have a vintage panel door with brass knobs and plate installed. The removed door between the kitchen and dining room may be re-installed if desired or left open. There are a couple of panel doors that are being stored in the barn loft and in the 1945 cabin (in 2007). Original or at least appropriate doors may be found and re-installed in the house.

Kitchen Cupboards

The cupboards and counter in the south-west corner and on the west wall are part of the original or at least early kitchen in the house. (Refer to Photo #19) There have been few changes to this area. Newer cupboards and a sink have been added on the east wall.

Condition The cupboards and even the counter are in fairly good condition.

Intervention These early cupboards and counter should be repaired as necessary. Newer changes may be removed and the restoration of the original cupboards may be appropriate. The newer cupboards and sink on the

30 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn opposite wall should be replaced with a more vintage style of cupboards, sink and possibly even a wood stove for the interpretation of the kitchen.

Staircase

The fir staircase is fairly steep (about 7 ½” to 8” rise with about a 9” to 9 ¼” run) and narrow (2’ 10 ½” in width). It has been stained a deep red-brown colour. The three stairs below the turn in the staircase have had part of their rise cut out and a piece of plastic added to the inside of the shower to help bring natural light into this space. (Refer to: Photo #20) A newer hand rail has been added for safety.

Condition The stairs are in fair condition. The wood on the stairs is well-worn.

Intervention Repair and stain the stairs using the same red-brown colour. The plastic and cut out rises should be preserved, as the shower may be restored for interpretation.

4.7 Potential Use and Public Access

The 2003 Concept Plan identifies the “Heritage Core area”, including the residence, barn and nut drying shed as the focus for heritage interpretation, which could provide the opportunity for “living interpretation”. This may include hosts in period costumes guiding visitors and going about daily chores on the nut farm. The interior should be conserved with the principal of minimal intervention, in order to preserve the heritage integrity and significance of the building as much as possible.

The Concept Plan suggests that the Gellatly House’s main floor be used to recreate the décor, furnishings and collections of a specific period during Jack Gellatly’s time. (Source: Concept Plan 2003, p 41-42) This would be an appropriate use for this building, as it has undergone fairly minor alterations since the 1920’s and would only need minor alterations, such as repairs, paint and new linoleum. The second floor would likely have limited public access because of the steep staircase. An appropriate use for this area may include storage and access to the Gellatly archival materials in both the west and east bedrooms. The dormer room has been adapted into an office and boardroom for the Gellatly Nut Farm Society. It is appropriate to continue this use of the room. The second floor (except for possibly the dormer room) should be included in small guided tours of the house, such as school tours. The log wall and the base of the chimney have been exposed on the north wall of the hall. (Refer to: Photo #21) This would be a very interesting and educational viewing area of the vertical log structure of the house. The back porch was used by Jack Gellatly for his fall nut sales. This use of this area has been continued by the Gellatly Nut Farm Society. This is a good and appropriate use for the porch area, as it has a minimal

31 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn impact on the building, brings the public to the Heritage Core area and continues the tradition set by Jack Gellatly.

The Concept Plan also examines threats to the heritage buildings, which includes the condition of the buildings, the potential impact of high traffic of the buildings (e.g. potential for damage or deterioration from constant use) and the potential hazard to the public. A balance is needed between public access and the enjoyment and the need to preserve the integrity of the heritage buildings.

4.8 Conclusion

The Gellatly House has significant heritage value as part of the Gellatly Nut Farm. This simple vernacular farmhouse plays an important role in the Nut Farm’s story specifically about Jack Gellatly, part of an important Okanagan pioneer and early agricultural family. The building’s continued use as a residence for the people who farmed the property, by looking after the trees and selling the nuts up until recently is significant. The house’s new function as an office and meeting space for the Gellatly Nut Farm Society is also important. As well, an interpretation function for the Gellatly House will contribute to the Gellatly Nut Farm’s sense of place and value to the community.

5. THE GELLATLY BARN

5.1 Historical Significance

The Gellatly Barn is closely associated with Jack Gellatly and his family. Jack Gellatly, who built the barn, earned local, national and even some international recognition for his nut growing business and interest in the science of breeding hardy nut varieties and their nutritional value.

The Gellatly family played a substantial role in shaping the farming pattern and agricultural development of the entire Okanagan Valley. The Gellatly family name is recognized in Westbank by area and roads names such as Gellatly Point and Gellatly Road. The barn, as part of the Gellatly Nut Farm Site, is important for its role in telling Jack Gellatly’s story as a farmer and as a nut breeder and grower.

Jack Gellatly and the Gellatly family were agricultural pioneers in the Okanagan Valley. They cleared the land, built their houses, barns and other agricultural structures using whatever materials were available (e.g. local trees for timber). The barn is significant because of its function as a shelter for Jack Gellatly’s horse and/or cow and its use as storage for the farm equipment, supplies and even nuts that were grown on the farm. The barn has been important in the operation of the nut farm during its entire history and continues to be used by the Society and by the Regional District for storage.

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5.2 Cultural Significance

The barn, as part of the Gellatly Nut Farm, is important for its continuity in the community because of its relatively intact site along with the house, the barn, the nut drying shed, the lakeside cottage, the 1945 cabin, and the nut orchard. The orchard has matured but still remains largely how it was during Jack Gellatly’s time.

The site and especially the barn have maintained much of its heritage integrity, as there have been minimal alterations or additions to the structure. The barn also continues to functions as part of the nut farm operations.

Although the park site is located off the main road of Westbank, it is a locally well-known and a significant landmark in the community. The barn’s more visible location next to Whitworth Road has helped to increase its landmark status.

The Gellatly Barn’s value also lies in its survival. Barns are becoming ‘endangered species’ with changes in the agricultural economy that have caused many farmers in Canada to go bankrupt and farms to be abandoned. On farms that are still prosperous, new barns have often been built that lack the cultural and architectural interest of early barns. It is rare that these types of buildings have survived the last seventy-five to one hundred years, especially in a community that has been experiencing significant land development pressures. Being constructed of logs and not built using ‘barn boards’ has probably contributed to the barn’s survival as well.

The barn has been recognized as one of two of the most significant heritage buildings in the Westbank area in the 1985 Central Okanagan Heritage Resource Inventory. The Gellatly Nut Farm Regional Park Concept Plan in May 2003 also identified the barn as having high significance.

5.3 Architectural Significance

The Gellatly Barn, a pioneer vernacular agricultural structure, was built by Jack Gellatly in 1905. Vernacular can be defined as the following: unassuming, practical buildings - the heritage of everyday and everybody. While unassuming, many of these buildings have historical importance and help to define our unique sense of place. (Source: David Lovell, “Vernacular Architecture Poster”, for Heritage Week 2007) Vernacular structures were built using local materials and construction methods. Log barns and outbuildings have an integral connection to the pioneers who came to North America, where they cleared land, grew crops, raised livestock and built houses and barns to protect themselves and their animals against the elements.

The barn is a rectangular 1 ½ storey structure with a medium pitched gable roof. The structure’s walls are made of local poplar/cottonwood* hand hewn squared logs that would have been cut from the

33 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn surrounding land. The barn was built using hand hewn chinked squared logs with dovetailed corners for the main floor walls. In the attic space the two end walls and the roof were constructed using rough sawn planks. The barn is a good example of the earlier hand hewn squared log construction and the later use of rough sawn planks. The hand hewn and saw marks are visible on the logs and timber. These marks on the wood remind us of the feat that Jack Gellatly and other pioneers undertook in clearing their land and creating structures and a farm from the ground up.

The barn is architecturally important for its simple yet functional design, its use of local materials and its early building techniques. The barn is also significant because it has survived, which in part is due to its location, design, materials, and construction. This early and unique barn has undergone little change over the years.

*(Note: Poplar/Cottonwood: In researching the type of logs used in the construction of the barn and house, both popular and cottonwood timber have been mentioned in the various reports and interpretation on the site. The cottonwoods are three species of poplars in the section Aegiros of the genus Populus, native to North America, Europe and western Asia. There are native cottonwood trees growing near the lake in the park. These would possibly have been part of the group of trees that would have provided the logs for the barn and the house.)

5.4 Heritage Value and Significance

The Gellatly Barn has heritage significance because it is a rare survivor of a pioneer vernacular barn in its original surroundings and because of its historical association with an important pioneer family who helped to shape the farming pattern of the Okanagan Valley. The Gellatly Barn is a very good example of an early barn hand-built by a well-known pioneer who used local materials and early building methods. The barn is an integral part of the Gellatly Nut Farm Regional Park, and helps give the site its unique sense of place and landmark status in the Central Okanagan.

The Gellatly Barn’s value lies not only with its historical and architectural significance, but also with its continuity and its strong community and government connections and support. The Gellatly Barn as part of the Gellatly Nut Farm Regional Park site is a well-known destination and landmark for local residents and a tourist site of special interest for visitors.

5.5 Alterations and Additions History and Conservation Intervention

The Gellatly Barn has undergone very few changes since it was built by Jack Gellatly in 1905. The barn was built at about the same time as the Gellatly Log House, as a barn was necessary for housing animals and storing farm equipment and supplies. The barn continued to be used in the operation of the Gellatly Nut Farm, even after Jack and his brother William died. The farm was rented out and eventually bought and turned into a community park by the Central Okanagan Regional District and the Gellatly

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Nut Farm Society who have continued the nut cultivation business. The continued use of the barn has preserved the structure largely intact with minimal alterations.

West Façade Shed Roof Addition (Ice Shed)

When Jack Gellatly returned to his farm around 1919/1920, he created a space to store ice in sawdust for the farm by attaching a shed roof off the west side of the barn. (Refer to: Historic Photo #22) The roof, which looks like it extended about 10’ to 12’ from the barn wall, was held up with two corner posts. There does not appear to be any enclosed space under the shingled shed roof. The shed roof was attached to the log wall via a horizontal board that was nailed into the log wall. This board is still attached to the third log from the top of the wall. (Refer to: Photo #23) Its temporary design and construction would suggest that it would likely have deteriorated and would have had to be either rebuilt over the years or removed. As an ice shed was no longer needed when electricity was brought to the farm in the late 1940’s, this area may have been used for wood storage or for farm equipment or supplies. It is not known when the shed roof was removed.

Intervention It is recommended that the west shed roof addition be restored, using the historic photographs and building evidence to replicate where it was located, its size (it will likely need to be built shorter due to the limited space created by the fence and road) and shape. This would create usable space as well as add to the vernacular farm character of the building. The shed roof addition would also provide a wonderful interpretation opportunity for talking about ice storage in the summer. The barn has been incorrectly ‘cleaned up’ and ‘sanitized’ with the removal of this shed roof addition.

North Façade Shed Roof Addition and Wood Platform

In the 2003 Concept Plan, the photograph of the barn shows a shed roof addition supported by two corner posts over the barn door on the north side. (Refer to: Photo #24) The shed roof extends from the log wall (located about the third log from the top of the log wall) and looks to be about the same size as the wooden platform below it. This addition is very similar to the west façade shed roof addition. The awning roof was put on by the Leslie’s around 1989/1990 to provide shelter as they sold nuts. The awning roof was removed prior to 2007, likely due to its poor condition.

This photograph also shows the existing wood platform underneath the overhang. A newer wooden 4’5” x 12’1” platform has been built outside the barn door. The boards run lengthwise from east to west. This wood platform is similar to the one recently built for the Nut Drying Shed. The platform is in poor condition as it is sitting directly on the ground and is deteriorating from the ground moisture and the water from the sprinklers.

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Intervention It is recommended that the shed roof be left off as it was a recent addition to the barn and has since been removed. The wood platform should be repaired as needed, as it provides a good viewing area into the barn.

South Façade Horizontal Opening

The most significant alteration to the barn was the removal of the two windows on the south side to create one large horizontal opening. (Refer to: Historic Photo #25 and Photos #26 & #27) A plywood shutter has been attached to the exterior of the barn secured by top hinges. The shutter would have been propped open with temporary posts holding up each end. This opening to the interior of the barn let light into the barn. This opening was likely created by Bill Gellatly, as Ferne Jean is fairly certain that this alteration was not done during Jack’s time. Ferne Jean also spoke with the Leslies who said that the opening had already been created when they bought the farm in 1989. The south opening will be discussed further in the Condition Report (section 5.6).

Intervention It is recommended that the two original windows be restored, using the historic photographs and building evidence to replicate where they were located and their size and shape. The log wall in between the two windows will be filled in with cottonwood hand-hewn squared logs, like on the rest of the log building. This would restore the original character of the building and also help ensure the structural integrity that may have been compromised by the removal of the wall and window frames.

Electricity

Florescent lights have been installed in the barn. This is a fairly modern alteration as there would not have been a need for lights in a barn.

Intervention The electrical wiring, lighting and junction box should not be exposed, as the barn will likely be used for interpretation. The fluorescent lights are not appropriate for the building, more ‘character’ and/or discrete lighting would add to the atmosphere of the barn.

Fire Suppression System

Most heritage buildings are lost because of fire. The Gellatly Barn does not have a fire suppression system. A sprinkler system has been considered for the house and possibly for the barn. New water lines have been installed in anticipation of a sprinkler system in the heritage buildings.

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Intervention For the protection and long term survival of the Gellatly Barn, it is recommended that a sprinkler system be installed with as minimal impact on the building as possible.

5.6 Gellatly Barn Condition Report

View of north-east façades of Gellatly Barn Photo #30

It is important to thoroughly document and evaluate the existing condition of a heritage building such as the Gellatly Barn. This will lead to a conservation plan which will identify the significant character defining elements and the interventions necessary.

The evaluation of the condition of the materials and the elements of the building will also help to determine the appropriate intervention necessary to ensure that the Gellatly barn’s heritage value is preserved and protected. Minimal intervention will be emphasized in which repair of original materials

37 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn and elements will be recommended. Replacement of elements will only be recommended if the material is too deteriorated to repair. Repair rather than replace character-defining elements. Where character-defining elements are too severely deteriorated to repair, and where sufficient physical evidence exists, replace them with new elements that match the forms, materials and detailing of sound versions of the same elements. (Source: Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Historic Places in Canada, p. 7)

As part of the Gellatly Barn Conservation Report, a set of architectural drawings have been completed by Peter Chataway. These drawings include: floor plans and elevations (side views) and identify basic uses, structure and materials of the buildings. (Refer to: The Gellatly Barn Building Plan #2)

EXTERIOR

Roof/Loft Ceiling

The barn has a medium pitch gable roof that is covered with cedar wood shingles. The peak of the roof has a 90 degree angle butt join. The peak, running east to west, has a top wood ridge cap made up of one board overlapping the other board, leaving a small ventilation gap at the ridge. The roof has nine exposed rough finished roof rafters on the south and north sides of the barn. The 2” wide by 4” in height rafters are spaced about 2’ 8” (32” on centers). The roof overhangs the walls by about 1’ on all sides (the length of exposed rafters are about 1’2”). In the loft space, a fir sill plate (2”x 6”) has been attached on the top of the north and south log walls. The rafters are attached to the sill plate. The fir rafters have been notched about 2 ¾” from the bottom, leaving about 1 ¼” width to fit on top of the log wall and exposed on the exterior. Wood shims have been added to square the roof under the sill plate. There is a gap between the roof and the walls, also for air circulation.

There are 32 horizontal fir strapping boards (16 on each side of the peak) attached to the roof framing/rafters. There are usually at least two board lengths that make up the strapping row. The strapping boards are about 5 ¾” wide x 1” thick. There is a gap of about 3” to 3 ½” between each row of board lengths. The curve lines of the saw can be seen in the strapping boards. This indicates that these are likely original or at least early boards. The shingles are attached directly onto these horizontal boards. At least two layers of wood shingles (they vary from 5” to 9” wide) are evident on the roof.

In the loft space, the strapping and underside of the shingles can be seen. (Refer to: Photos #28 & 29) The wood shingles and roof structure show evidence that they were oiled to protect the wood. The wood under the roof overhang on the exterior also shows evidence that oil was used to protect the wood.

Cross bracing on every rafter including each end rafter can be seen in the attic space. The bracing is about 13” down from the peak. The bracing pieces are about 3 ½” in width and are made out of reused

38 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn tongue and groove flooring (as seen in the nut drying shed). The top height of the loft floor to the peak of the ceiling is 9’ 9”.

Condition The cedar shingles on the roof are in very poor condition. The shingles are deteriorating and very weathered; some are missing, split, broken, weathered and have moss growing on them. The moss is especially prevalent on the north facing side of the roof. (Refer to: Photo #30) The north facing roof is more shaded and protected from the sun, wind and the elements. On the north side of the roof, there is a rectangular area that has no moss growing on it. The 2003 photograph (Refer to: Photo #24) shows a board or piece of metal on that section of the roof, likely to temporarily seal off this part of the roof as it likely failed. This section of the roof has been repaired. The design and condition of the ridge cap leaves a gap in the roof which allows in moisture, although the attic floor shows minimal water damage likely due to evaporation.

The middle of the roof and towards the west side, the roof appears to be sagging. The rafters look to be in fair to good condition, although where the rafters, strapping and cross bracing are exposed to the exterior because of the failure of the shingles, there has been deterioration. Some of the strapping boards are split and broken. The sill plate appears to be in good condition. The tongue in groove wood diagonal strapping, added as cross supports to the roof, seem to be in good condition. Some of the wood in the attic space has some of the oil left on it, helping to preserve the wood.

Intervention It is recommended that the roof’s rafters and strapping be repaired and materials replaced as necessary, using as much of the original material as possible. The roof should be re-shingled using cedar wood shingles of very high quality (i.e. the #1 Blue Label Western Red Cedar 18” length and 5” exposed). It is recommended that the roof ridge be evaluated further and be stabilized and repaired with a wood ridge cap when re-roofing the barn. The roof ridge design should be reconsidered, as the gap lets in moisture. It is important that the roof be repaired as soon as possible to help stabilize the building so that it won’t deteriorate any further. The tongue in groove wood strapping, added as cross supports to the roof, seems to be in good condition, and should be left to show how early vernacular buildings were not only built, but were also repaired using local materials from around the farm.

Log Walls

The 18’ x 21’ barn is constructed of hand-hewn cottonwood logs (native trees grown nearby) laid horizontally and fitted with dovetail corners. (Refer to: Photo #31) When the logs were squared on the upper/top and lower/bottom faces, the bark was left on the uncut round sections of each of the logs. The bark is still visible on some of the logs. The axe marks are visible on many of the logs. The logs range from a width of 8” to 11”, with lengths of: the east and west wall logs are about 17’ 1”; the south and north wall logs are about 20’ 11”. Each wall was comprised of twelve logs stacked.

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The chinking between the logs are split pieces of wood that has been nailed between the logs on the exterior with a mud and grass mix chinking on the interior for insulation. The gaps between the logs vary from small to quite large gaps. The average gap is between 1/2” to 3” wide. There are a couple of places that have gaps between 4 ½” to 5” (e.g. above the south enlarged window). The wood chinking lengths varies from 5” to 3’4”. The wood chinking was custom made for each area, as the gaps vary according to each log.

The top of the log wall can be seen in the loft space. The height of the north wall is 34” to 35” from the attic floor, which is about 3 ¼ to 3 ½ logs that are exposed in this space. The north and south wall top logs have two wood pins between the top and under the log to keep the wall stable and to keep from moving. Axe marks can be seen on many of the logs. The east wall is about 29” to 31” high (3 exposed logs). The top log length is about 17’ 4”. The south wall has 3 ½ logs exposed (34” to 35”), similar to the north wall. The length of the top log is also 20’ 11”. Like the other log walls there are lots of gaps (2” to 6” wide) with the split boards added as chinking. The west log wall has 3 logs exposed and is about the same height as the east wall. The top log is 17’ 2” in length, which is about 2” shorter than the east wall. In the loft space, the mud and grass chinking material is not evident, only on the main floor.

The exterior logs show some traces of oil that would have been applied to protect the wood. Jack Gellatly probably oiled the logs with old motor oil used on the farm.

Condition When Jack Gellatly built the barn, he likely did not dry the cottonwood logs slowly or allowed them to season for a year. He likely built the barn as he cut the logs. As the logs dried out, the logs “checked” (cracked and split) as the wood has high moisture content. Cottonwood and popular trees should be cut in the winter when the sap retreats from the tree's trunk to the roots, making the logs less likely to check. Seasoning the logs also prevents cracking, so it is suggested that they should be stacked and left in the shade for a full year.

The logs range from poor to good condition, depending on their location. There are some deep cracks/checking and many surface cracks in the log caused by shrinkage from the drying process. There are very deep cracks running length wise in the logs. The cracks are up to 3”, which is about a 1/3 of the log’s width. Although there is debris (i.e. dirt, nuts, animal droppings, etc) in some of these deep cracks that should be cleaned out, there does not seem to be much active deterioration. The upper logs appear to be stable.

Originally each wall was constructed of 12 logs each. The bottom one or two logs on every wall is has either totally disintegrated or is in the process of disintegrating. A couple of areas have lost more than the bottom log. The disintegration of the bottom logs is due to the logs being placed either directly or partially in the dirt with only a few rocks in the corners as a base. The west wall’s bottom log still partially exists, although it is in very poor condition and is disintegrating. The north wall’s bottom log is deteriorating at both the west and east ends of the wall. The east wall’s bottom log has partially disintegrated at the north end, but has totally disappeared in the middle of the wall to the south end.

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The south end’s second from the bottom log has also disintegrated where it has also disappeared in the south end corner. The south-east corner has been propped up and supported by cut logs sitting on end. (Refer to: Photo #32) The south wall’s bottom log has disintegrated at the east end. The log has partially survived towards the west end of the wall.

The exterior wood chinking is missing in many areas, leaving gaps through the walls. The interior mud and grass chinking on the main floor has also fallen out in many areas. There is evidence of insect holes and burrowing in the surface of the logs. There are various nails, screws, etc. stuck into the logs. The log walls have not been painted or stained; instead they look like they were once protected with motor oil. There is little or no oil left on the log walls to provide protection from the elements. This has caused the wood to grey in many areas and become very weathered. The greying is especially noticeable on the south side and the bottom half of the exterior walls likely due to sprinklers. The top half is still brown in colour indicating that the wood has not totally dried out.

Intervention It is recommended that every log be assessed and evaluated to determine what logs need to be repaired or replaced. All of the bottom logs and possibly the next one or two rows may need to be replaced as well. It is recommended that as much of the logs and chinking be repaired and preserved as possible. Where necessary, new cottonwood logs should be hand hewn and squared with dovetail corners as the original logs were (same technique/method, materials and similar log size as replacement logs). Chinking should also be replicated with wood pieces cut to fit each space on the exterior and the mud and grass interior chinking on the main floor.

The exterior logs will need to be protected from the elements. Old motor oil* was likely applied to the wood to protect it, but this is not an appropriate finish for the restored exterior wood. The rustic weathered patina of the exterior is part of this building’s charm and character and should be preserved as much as possible.

It is recommended that there should be nothing leaning against the walls and the vegetation should also be kept away from the building. This will prevent further and future damage to the building’s walls, foundation and roof. Also the sprinklers must be set to ensure that the water spray and mist does not touch/hit the log walls. This will help prevent further damage to the log walls.

*(Note: Further research should be undertaken to determine the best type of oil (i.e. linseed oil) to preserve the wood, to ensure that it is environmentally safe, and also to choose oil that is the least flammable. If this is not possible, then a stain that replicates the look of oiled wood would be appropriate.)

Plank Walls

The loft space, under the east and west gables, has been finished/enclosed with vertical rough cut planks. These planks vary in widths from a 5 ¾” board, to 8” to 9” to 9 ½”. There are gaps, some fairly

41 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn wide spaces, between each plank. The planks were likely a tighter fit, but over the years the wood has dried out leaving gaps between the boards. The rough cut planks have been nailed to the top log on the exterior and the planks overlap the log about ½ the width of the log. The top of the planks have been attached (angled slightly) to the exterior of the last/outside rafter. The south east corner has a bottom wood piece added out from the log for added support. This closes off the gap between the planks and the log wall and gives something for the planks to be nailed to as there is a large space between the log at this corner and the planks.

The west wall also has vertical boards that have been nailed to the exterior of the roof rafter and the exterior of the top log (about halfway down the log). (Refer to: Photo #23) The planks also vary in width from 9 ½” to 8” to 7 ½”. The gaps are large from ¼” to ¾”. On the west wall there is one replaced board. This is a reused board as the hinge marks are visible and the board is painted yellow on the interior side. This board is a piece of drop siding placed vertically like the other planks.

Condition The plank walls are in fair to good condition. There are knot holes and missing corners in some of the planks. Cracks and weathering of the wood is also visible in some of the planks. The east façade planks are dark brown from being preserved with oil. The planks have gone grey and are quite weathered on the west façade.

Intervention It is recommended that the rough cut planks be repaired as possible. Where replacement is necessary, new planks should replicate the deteriorated pieces that they are replacing. Replacement of the planks may be necessary on the west façade where the wood is extremely damaged.

The exterior wood will need to be protected from the elements. Old motor oil was likely applied to the wood to protect it, but this is not an appropriate finish for the restored exterior wood. The rustic weathered patina of the exterior is part of this building’s charm and character and should be preserved as much as possible.

North Façade Door

The fir door, typical of a handmade farm door, is located in the center of the north wall. (Refer to: Photo #33) The 3’ 2 ½” x 6’ 4 ¾” (76.75”) fir door may be original or is at least an older replaced door. The door is comprised of four vertical planks of wood with, with three horizontal braces across the exterior of the door. There are noticeable gaps between each plank. A bark edge can be seen between some of the planks. There are two large rusty metal hinges attached to the top and the bottom cross brace and the matching right-hand side (west side) horizontal pieces. There are two different widths of boards attached to each side of the door. The right-hand side (west end) was two horizontal pieces extending out from the cross brace that the two hinges are attached to. It appears that there may have been different hinges or possibly an earlier door, as there are many holes and discoloration on the right-hand

42 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn side board. There are also many nails and nail holes in the cross bars. The left-hand side (east side) of the door is a narrower board, which has both a piece of wood on a nail, that turns to keep the door shut, as well as the addition of a new security lock.

The interior of the door is very simple with no interior bracing. There is an interior wire and latch that can be hooked onto the frame to keep the door shut from the inside. It is in fair condition. The wood on the interior is in better condition, as the oil preservative can be still seen on the interior of the door. The log at the top of the opening has been partially cut out for the top of the doorway.

Condition The exterior of the door is very grey and weathered and in poor condition. The edges of the wood door planks are broken and somewhat uneven. There are lots of nails, nail holes and knots in the wood. The wood planks have dried out and shrunk over the years, creating significant gaps in the door between each vertical plank. The wood is deteriorating, especially along the bottom quarter of the door, partially due to the water sprinklers spraying on the wood. The door sill is well-worn and in poor condition. If necessary, the door sill should be replaced with a new wood sill. The door frame is in fair condition; the top board is split. The door frame should be repaired as necessary. The east side of the door frame has a board with writing that has been attached to the upper section of the door frame. This board should be preserved as it may offer an opportunity for interpretation of how the barn was used.

Intervention It is recommended that the door be repaired and refinished. The wood on the exterior side of the door will need to be protected with oil, like the rest of the exterior walls. Some replacement of materials may be necessary. It may be necessary to attach new wood planks to the back of the door to reinforce it. The existing hinges seem to be still working, so they should be cleaned up and kept. A new handle and lock, in keeping with the heritage character, should be installed to secure the building. A new sill, similar to the original is necessary.

South Façade Window Opening

There were originally two window openings located on the south wall. These two windows are visible in the early historic photograph that shows the house and barn just after they were built. These windows are also visible in the early 1920’s photographs, after Jack returned to the farm with his wife and young son. (Refer to: Historic Photo #25) More recently the two windows were removed along with the log wall in between the two windows to create one large horizontal opening. The bottom log of the opening has been partially cut out at each end. (Refer to: Photo #27) There is a board (2” thick x 10” wide x 5 ¾” high) that has been fitted into the side of the log wall on each side of the new opening. The partial log above it has been cut off to open up the opening even more. Originally, the two window openings would have had a partial log above which the frame would have fit snugly into. The two original windows and frames would have been in this space.

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A plywood shutter has been attached with four door hinges (two older and two newer hinges) to the log above the opening. It may have been propped open to access the interior of the barn and to let light into the barn. The shutter is presently screwed shut for security.

Condition The window opening is in fair condition. There are many nail holes, large splits in the wood (likely from the wood drying out after it was cut), some insect surface burrowing and some weathering and deterioration in the logs. The plywood shutter, made up of three pieces of plywood held together with two wood braces, is in fair condition. It is really a temporary cover for the large opening into the barn.

Intervention It is recommended that the two original windows and log wall in between the two windows be restored back to the original design. The physical evidence and the historic photographs reveal enough information to recreate the original openings. The window sashes are harder to determine as it is very difficult to see what they looked like from the photographs. However, a simple sash with glass and/or a wood interior shutter may be appropriate. Research into local barns from the same time period may provide additional guidance. The removal of these logs between the windows may have or will compromise the integrity of the upper logs. The space in between the windows should be filled in with squared off popular logs (with some bark exposed), like the rest of the building. The newer plywood exterior shutter should be removed.

East Façade Loft Opening

There is an opening (4’ 4 ½” high x 3’ wide) on the east wall starting at the top of the log wall. At the top of the opening on the inside of the wall, there is a wood brace (5 ½” wide; 2” thick and 64” long). On the outside of the plank wall (on the south end) there are what is left of two old leather hinges and nails and nail holes to indicate a third hinge which is gone. There is a different metal hinge (only a piece left) there is another partial hinge. (Refer to: Photo #34) There are nail holes on the lower part of the plank board on the north side of the opening which may indicate where a latch held the wood door/shutter closed. The door has been removed and has disappeared and a piece of plywood has been nailed on to close off this space.

Condition The opening is in fair condition.

Intervention A door similar to the barn door may be appropriate. (I.e. vertical planks with interior bracing) The door should be attached to the exterior of the plank wall with hinges that are similar to either the leather or metal. A wood latch at the inside and the outside should also be attached in order to keep the door shut.

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Foundation

The logs appear to have been placed directly on the dirt using field stone to level the first course. It is possible that the barn has a field stone foundation. The Concept Plan 2003 indicates that the bottom logs rest on flat stones at the corners. As the south-east corner has lost 2-3 of its bottom logs to deterioration, the remaining logs have been propped up on some log ends in the corner in an attempt to stabilize and level the building. (Refer to: Photo #32) The exterior has been partially covered with plywood to help enclose the space.

Condition The foundation is in poor condition. Because the wood foundation has been placed directly on the dirt and rocks with no moisture separation, the wood logs are deteriorating. The south-east corner of the foundation is missing. The corner of the building is sloping downwards due to settlement as there is no longer any support under this part of the structure. This indicates that the foundation on this end of the building is failing. The walls (gable ends) are bowed from the middle and turn downwards to each corner.

Intervention The foundation will need to be thoroughly assessed to determine what should be done to stabilize the building, based on the Canadian Heritage Conservation Standards and Guidelines. It is recommended that reinforced concrete foundation wall and footing be installed in order to stabilize the building. The footing should be at least 18” wide by 8”-10” thick/deep and placed 2’0” below finished grade for protection.

INTERIOR

The Gellatly Barn is comprised of an elevated stall in the south-east corner, handmade shelf units and wall shelves with handmade brackets and an open loft that is accessed by a handmade ladder attached to the wall in the north-east corner.

The important heritage elements of the interior that should be preserved are: the dirt/wood floor, the stall and platform, the shelves and wall brackets, the ladder and the open loft area.

Floor

The barn originally had a dirt floor in the main area of the building. Recently a floating wood floor was put on top of the dirt in the main section of the building. A wood platform was built in the south-east corner of the barn as a stall for a cow or horse. A partial wood floor was also built in front of the stall,

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Condition and Intervention The platform appears to be in fair to good condition. The partial wood floor in front of the stall is in poor condition. It is deteriorating into the dirt. The newer floating floor is in fair condition.

It is recommended that the stall floor be repaired as necessary. The older partial wood floor will likely need to be replaced with a similar floor. The dirt floor, recently covered up with a new floating floor may be appropriate in the barn. Even though the dirt floor is original, it may not be practical in the use of the barn for either storage or a new interpretive use, with public access. If a new floor is deemed necessary it should be the same wood type, profile, width and run the same direction as the existing floor in front of the stall. Another option might be to leave most of the dirt floor where it was originally, except for a section (platform area) in entry into barn that would delineate where the public could stand to view the interior.

Ceiling

The eight ceiling beams (floor joists for the loft area) run north-south. The beams are partially supported by boards nailed into the log walls and a centre cross beam that is supported by the stall. There are also some cross braces to add support to the ceiling and shelves. The ceiling is being used for the storage of wood, tools, etc.

Condition and Intervention The ceiling appears to be in fair to good condition. The ceiling is dirty and every gap is full of nuts and debris. The ceiling should be maintained as it is, repairing and cleaning materials as needed.

Shelves and Brackets

The main floor of the barn contains various hand-made elements such as built-in shelves, wall shelves with unique carved brackets (Refer to: Photo #36) and many hooks, spikes, etc. which all help in the function of the barn for the storage of farm tools, supplies and nuts. These features have been attached to the log walls.

Condition and Intervention These features are in fair to good condition. These unique features should be repaired if necessary. The shelves and hooks should continue to be used as they always have been.

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Opening and Ladder

The opening in the attic floor that accesses the attic space is located in the north-east corner of the building. It is 2’5” (north to south) x 2’7” (east to west). There likely would have been a cover/door to close off the opening into the loft. There is a heavy cover (2’ 4 ½” x 3’) made of similar planks like the floor that also runs the same way, that seems to fit into the space. The rustic hand-made ladder is nailed onto the east wall. (Refer to: Photo #37) It is made up of two round slim logs/poles (one is 3” thick and the other one is 1 ½” thick) with a top cross piece nailed to the top of the log, securing the two poles to the wall. There are seven slats for rungs, which vary from tongue and groove flooring pieces to a plain bottom and top rung. The rungs are nailed to the front of the poles and the ladder poles are nailed into the log walls. The bottom of the ladder poles are set on the dirt floor. This is a functional ladder. It works and is in good shape. It is rustic and built re-using available materials around the farm.

Condition and Intervention The ladder is in good condition and seems to be stable and functional. This is probably as a result of on- going maintenance by the Gellatlys for safety reasons. No intervention is needed, as the public will not use this ladder to access the loft.

Loft Area

There are lots of hanging wires from the ceiling rafters and cross braces. There are many spikes, nails, pulleys, hooks from which ropes, etc are hanging. Two 3 ½” tongue and groove boards have been attached across the width of the attic (height about 6’ 1 ½” from the floor). This is being used as a space to store wood, paddles, etc. The loft may have originally been used for hay storage as well as used to store all sorts of farm equipment. (Refer to: Photo #29)

Condition and Intervention The loft area is very dusty, dirty, with lots of cobwebs, wasps’ nests and loose nuts. Like the main floor of the barn, this area should be cleaned and the debris and loose nuts removed.

5.7 Potential Use and Public Access

The 2003 Concept Plan identifies the “Heritage Core area”, including the residence, barn and nut drying shed, as the focus for heritage interpretation, which could provide the opportunity for “living interpretation”. This may include hosts in period costumes guiding visitors and going about daily chores on the nut farm.

The 2003 Concept Plan suggests that the barn would be suitable for the display of agricultural artifacts or for storage. (Source: Concept Plan, 2003, p. 19) Public access may be considered as the barn is an important

47 | P a g e Conservation R e p o r t : The Gellatly House & The Gellatly Barn part of the interpretation of the site. However, public access should be limited due to the concern for public safety and the fragile nature of the structure. Entry into the barn should be limited to a secured section of the main floor of the barn near the entry, in which the visitor can still have a full experience of the barn. Public access should also be limited to guided tours to ensure both public and the barn’s safety. The loft area should be used only for limited storage.

5.8 Conclusion

The Log Barn has significant heritage value as part of the Gellatly Nut Farm. This simple vernacular barn plays an important role in the Nut Farm’s story specifically about Jack Gellatly, part of an important Okanagan pioneer and early agricultural family. The building’s continued use as a barn for the nut farm is significant. The barn contributes to the Gellatly Nut Farm’s sense of place and value to the community.

6. RECOMMENDATIONS

It is recommended that the Log Barn and the Gellatly House undergo appropriate interventions as soon as possible based on the Canadian Heritage Conservation Standards and Guidelines to ensure that these buildings are stabilized and properly conserved in order to preserve their heritage value. The conservation and the interpretation of these two buildings should not negatively impact their heritage significance. To further protect and to commemorate these buildings as part of the Gellatly Nut Farm, it would be appropriate to apply for inclusion on to the Canadian National Heritage Register. These buildings, as part of the Gellatly Nut Farm Regional Park, along with the Gellatly residence and barn, could also be further protected with heritage designation at the local (municipal) jurisdiction and by the provincial and/or the federal governments.

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Jack & Gellatly children with travelling van Historic Photo #1

View north of log house and log barn Historic Photo #2

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1920’s addition & stucco finish Historic Photo #3

1920’s dormer & shingle finish Historic Photo #4

West façade electrical panel Photo #5

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Gas heater in north-west corner of dining room Photo #6

East façade enclosed front porch Photo #7

West façade back porch area being used to sell nuts Photo #8

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Closed off shower Photo #9

South façade covered vent Photo #11

North-east corner with board and batten exposed under stucco Photo #12

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South façade horizontal window Photo #13

East façade second floor windows Photo #14

Second floor bedroom period linoleum Photo #15

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Dining room north wall window Door and floor moulding Photo #16 Photo #17

View from Utility room of interior bathroom windows Photo #18

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Older style kitchen cupboards Staircase converted to let light into the shower Photo #19 Photo #20

Second floor hall with exposed brick chimney sitting on log wall Photo #21

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South façade of barn with ice shed Historic Photo #22

West façade of barn with ice shed board & plank wall Photo #23

North & east façades of barn with shed roof addition Photo #24

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South façade of barn with two windows Historic Photo #25

South façade of barn with plywood shutter Photo #26

South façade of barn with enlarged opening Photo #27

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Loft ceiling of barn Photo #28

Loft ceiling of barn Photo #29

Cottonwood log wall with dovetail corners & wood chinking Photo #31

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South-east corner of barn North façade barn door Photo #32 Photo #33

East façade loft opening Photo #34

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Wood floor in north-east corner Photo #35

Hand-made shelf and brackets Photo #36

Hand-made ladder up to loft Photo #37

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The Gellatly House Building Plans #1 Peter Chataway, 2008

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The Gellatly Barn Building Plans #2 Peter Chataway, 2008

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Sources

Bawlf, N. Your Old House - Wood Siding. Victoria Heritage Foundation, 2000.

Brotherton, Dorothy. Nut farm supporters spend lavishly. Westside Weekly. August 8, 2001, p. 1.

Central Okanagan Heritage Resource Inventory. Regional District of Central Okanagan, 1985.

Chataway, Peter. The Gellatly House Building Plans. October 2008. (copy in report)

Chataway, Peter. The Gellatly Barn Building Plans. October 2008. (copy in report)

FORECON Consulting Services. Gellatly Nut Farm Regional Park Concept Plan. May 2003.

FORECON Consulting Services. Gellatly Nut Farm Regional Park Site Development Plan. July 2003.

Gellatly, Dorothy Hewlett. A Bit of Okanagan History. Published with assistance from The Heritage Trust, 1983.

Gellatly Nut Farm Archival Materials. Family Photographs, Newspaper Articles, Jack Gellatly Farm Records, Diaries, etc. Collected and donated by Ferne Jean and the Gellatly Family.

Historical True Colours for Western Canada. Vancouver Heritage Foundation &Benjamin Moore, 2005.

Iredale, Jennifer. “Upgrading Windows in Heritage Buildings.” Heritage BC Quarterly,Victoria, Spring 2008, pp 1-2.

Lovell, David. Vernacular Architecture Poster. KSAN. Kelowna Heritage Week, 2007.

Murphy, Bill. Your Old House - Wood Windows. Victoria Heritage Foundation, 2000.

Parks Canada. Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Historic Places in Canada. The Government of Canada, in collaboration with provincial and territorial governments, 2004.

Patterson, Robert. Your Old House - Masonry. Victoria Heritage Foundation, 2000.

Sugars, John A. An Okanagan History the Diaries of Roger John Sugars 1905-1919. John Sugars Publishing, 2005.

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