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THE BEST OF HONG KONG 1 ong Kong is such a feast for the senses it reminds me of a movie set. Maybe I’m an incurable romantic, but Hwhen I stand at the railing of the famous Star Ferry as it glides across the harbor, ride a rickety old tram as it winds its way across Hong Kong Island, or marvel at the stunning views afforded from atop Victoria Peak, I can’t help but think I must have somehow landed in the middle of an epic drama where the past has melted into the present. So many images float by—wooden boats bobbing up and down in the harbor beside huge ocean liners; crumbling tenements next to ultramodern high-rises; squalid alleys behind luxury hotels; elderly people pushing wheelbarrows as Rolls-Royces glide by; market vendors selling chicken feet and dried squid while talking on cellphones. In fact, one of the most striking characteristics of Hong Kong is this inter- weaving of seeming contradictions and the interplay of the exotic and the technically advanced. There are as many skyscrapers here as you’re likely to see anywhere, but they’re built with bamboo scaffolding and in accor- dance with the principles of feng shui. Historic trams rumble through Central, while below ground is one of the most efficient subways in the world, complete with the world’s first “contactless” tickets, cards that can be waved over a scanner without even taking them out of your purse or wallet. The city has some of the best and most sophisticated restaurants in the world, but it also has dai pai dong, street-side food stalls. Hong Kong is home to one of the world’s largest shopping malls, but lively make- shift street markets are virtually everywhere. The more you search for in Hong Kong, the more you’ll find. Before long, you, too, may find yourself swept up in the drama. THE most UNFORGETTABLECOPYRIGHTED TRAVEL MATERIAL EXPERIENCES W Observing a Chinese Festival: Hong Kong celebrates with several col- orful festivals throughout the year, featuring everything from dragon boat races to celebrations honoring Tin Hau, goddess of the sea. Cantonese opera, performed on temporary stages, is also common at Chinese festivals. See “Hong Kong Calendar of Events” in chapter 3. 004_9780470876336-ch01.indd4_9780470876336-ch01.indd 1 11/13/11/13/11 11:58:58 PMPM 1 Hong Kong Region PPEOPLE'SEOPLE'S REPUBLICREPUBLIC OOFF CHINACHINA Shataukok SSHENZHENHENZHEN GGUANGDONGUANGDONG PPROVINCEROVINCE LLoo WWuu Lok Ma Chau Lok Ma Chau . Rd ok K SShenzhenhenzhen BBayay 1 au a T ShekouShekou Sh MMaiai PPoo SSheungheung SShuihui NNatureature RReserveeserve Fanling LauLau Fau Fau Sha Shann 2 d. ok R K ng Ti LLongong PPinging YYuenuen LLongong Tai Po KamKam TinTin Tai Wo TTinin SShuihui d. 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The trip is a good reminder that Hong Kong, with its breathtaking skyline, is dominated by water, with one of the world’s busiest harbors. See p. 41. W Gazing upon Hong Kong from Victoria Peak: You don’t know Hong Kong until you’ve seen it from here. Take the funicular to Victoria Peak, famous for its views of Central, Victoria Harbour, South China Sea, Kowloon, and undulating hills beyond, followed by a 1-hour circular hike and a meal with a view. Don’t miss the nighttime view, one of the most spectacular and romantic in the world. See p. 254. The Best Splurge Hotels Splurge Best The W Listening to the World’s Largest Professional Chinese Orchestra: Established 30 years ago, the 80-member Hong Kong Chinese Orchestra is the world’s largest, playing traditional and modern Chinese instruments in orchestrations that combine Chinese and Western musical elements. See p. 242. W Celebrating Sundown with a Cocktail: Many hotel lounges offer spectacular views of the city as well as live music. As the sun disappears, watch the city explode in neon. See “Bars, Pubs & Lounges” in chapter 10, beginning on p. 246, for ven- ues with especially good views. W Partying until Dawn in Lan Kwai Fong: It’s standing room only at bars and pubs in Central’s most famous nightlife district, where the action spills out onto the street and continues until dawn. Other burgeoning nightlife districts include SoHo, Knutsford Terrace, and Wan Chai. See chapter 10. THE BEST OF HONG KONG THE BEST W Paying Respects at the Big Buddha: Laze on the open aft deck during the 50-minute ferry ride to Lantau Island (and enjoy great views of the harbor and skyline along the way), followed by a hair-raising bus ride over lush hills to see the world’s largest, seated, outdoor bronze Buddha, located at the Po Lin Monastery. Complete your pilgrimage with a vegetarian meal at the monastery and a visit to Ngong Ping Village with its shopping and Walking with Buddha museum, and then make your return trip via cable car offering more great views. See the “Lantau” section of chapter 11, beginning on p. 267. W Zipping over to Macau: Macau, for centuries a Portuguese outpost until it was handed back to the Chinese in 1999, is just an hour away by jetfoil and offers a fascinating blend of Chinese and Mediterranean lifestyles, evident in its spicy Macanese cuisine, colorful architecture, temples, churches, and many special- interest museums.