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1 The Best of

Every time I come to Hong Kong, I feel as though I’ve wandered onto a movie set. Maybe I’m an incurable romantic, but when I stand at the railing of the famous Star Ferry as it glides across the harbor, ride a rickety old tram as it winds its way across Hong Kong Island, or marvel anew at the stunning views afforded from atop Victoria Peak, I can’t help but think I must have somehow landed in the middle of an epic drama where the past has melted into the present. So many images float by—wooden boats bobbing up and down in the harbor beside huge ocean liners; crumbling tenements next to ultramodern high-rises; squalid alleys behind luxury hotels; old Chinese people pushing wheelbarrows as Rolls-Royces glide by; market vendors selling chicken feet and dried squid while talking on cellular phones. In fact, one of the most striking characteristics of Hong Kong is this inter- weaving of seeming contradictions and the interplay of the exotic and the tech- nically advanced. There are as many skyscrapers here as you’re likely to see anywhere, but they’re built with bamboo scaffolding. Historic trams rumble through Central, while below ground is one of the most efficient subways in the world, complete with the world’s first “contactless” tickets, cards that are waved over a scanner. The city has what are arguably some of the best and most sophis- ticated restaurants in the world, but it also has dai , street-side food stalls. Hong Kong is home to one of the world’s largest shopping malls, but there are also lively street markets virtually everywhere. Because of these dazzling contrasts, Hong Kong offers visitors something unique—the chance to experience a vibrant Chinese city without sacrificing the comforts of home. To be sure, much of Hong Kong’s Western fabric comes from the legacy left by the British, who ruled the colony until 1997, when it was handed back to China as a Special Administrative Region (thus the SAR abbre- viation you’ll see there and throughout this book). British influence is still evi- dent everywhere, from Hong Kong’s school system to its free-market economy, from its rugby teams to its double-decker buses, and from English pubs and tea in the afternoon to (my favorite) orderly queues. But though the city was molded by the British, it has always been, at its heart, Chinese, with Chinese medicineCOPYRIGHTED shops, street vendors, lively MATERIAL restaurants, old men taking their caged birds for walks in the park, and colorful festivals. Indeed, for the casual visitor, Hong Kong seems little changed since the 1997 handover. No doubt some visitors remain oblivious to even the most visible sign of that change: the replacement of the Union Jack and old flag of the Crown Colony of Hong Kong with the red, starred flag of China and the new red Hong Kong flag with its emblem of the bauhinia flower. Hong Kong was founded as a place to conduct business and to trade, and it continues to serve that purpose both aggressively and successfully. The world’s fourth-largest banking and financial center in terms of external assets, Hong 05_576690 ch01.qxd 1/24/05 10:19 AM Page 4

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THE BEST OF HONG KONG 5

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6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF HONG KONG

Kong is the “Wall Street of Asia,” with banking, international insurance, adver- tising, and publishing among its biggest industries. Hong Kong also boasts the world’s eighth-largest trading economy, and is one of the world’s leading exporters of toys, garments, and watches. Little wonder, then, that as a duty-free port, Hong Kong attracts approxi- mately 14 million visitors a year, making tourism one of its leading industries despite a devastating downturn in tourism in 2003 due to an outbreak of Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome (SARS). Shopping is one of the main reasons peo- ple come here, and at first glance, the city does seem rather like one huge depart- ment store. But there’s much more to Hong Kong than shopping. There’s also wining, dining, and sightseeing, as well as isolated places to get away from it all. For those who wish to journey farther afield, Macau, a former Portuguese colony handed back to China in 1999, is just an hour’s boat ride away; and vast China itself lies just beyond Hong Kong’s border, making it the perfect gateway for trips to Guangzhou, Shanghai, Beijing, and beyond. The more you search for in Hong Kong, the more you’ll find. Before long, you, too, may find yourself swept up in the drama.

1 Frommer’s Favorite Hong Kong Experiences • Dining on Dim Sum: A great way • Riding the Star Ferry: To reac- to start your day, nothing conveys quaint myself with the city, one of a sense of Chinese life more vividly the first things I do on each return than a visit to a crowded, lively trip is to hop aboard the Star Ferry restaurant for breakfast for one of the most dramatic— or lunch, where trolleys of dim and cheapest—5-minute boat sum in bamboo steamers are rides in the world. Hong Kong’s wheeled from customer to cus- harbor is one of the world’s tomer. Simply peer into the pass- busiest, and beyond it rises one of ing bamboo baskets and choose earth’s most breathtaking skylines. what appears the most tempting. See p. 55. See section 7 of chapter 5, begin- • Taking a Tram: Take a double- ning on p. 153, for more on Hong decker tram ride from one end of Kong’s dim sum restaurants. Hong Kong Island to the other for • Getting Up Early to Watch Tai an unparalleled view of life in the Chi: Before breakfast, head to one crowded city as you pass skyscrap- of Hong Kong’s many parks to ers, street markets, traditional watch people going through the Chinese shops, and department slow, graceful motions of tai chi, stores. See p. 54. or shadow boxing. For the best • Gazing upon Hong Kong from viewing, go to , Victoria Peak: You don’t know Hong Kong Park, Victoria Park, Hong Kong until you’ve seen it or the Zoological and Botanical from here. Take the tram to Victo- Gardens (see section 4 of chapter ria Peak, famous for its views of 6, beginning on p. 170, for more Central, the harbor, Kowloon, and on these parks and gardens). You undulating hills beyond, followed can even participate in free prac- by a 1-hour circular hike and a tice sessions, held 3 mornings a meal with a view. Don’t miss the week on the water- nighttime view, one of the most front promenade. See p. 179. spectacular and romantic in the world. See p. 47. 05_576690 ch01.qxd 1/24/05 10:19 AM Page 7

FROMMER’S FAVORITE HONG KONG EXPERIENCES 7

• Visiting a Tailor: Nothing beats harbor and Hong Kong Island the thrill of having something cus- with its skyscrapers. After dark, tom-made to fit you perfectly. If this is a wonderful romantic stroll, this is your dream, make a trek to with the lights of Hong Kong a tailor one of your first priorities Island shimmering across the so that you’ll have time for several water. And every evening at 8pm, fittings. See p. 220. Hong Kong puts on a spectacular • Bargain-Hunting in Stanley: laser and light show projected Stall after stall of casual wear, silk from skyscrapers on Hong Kong clothing, tennis shoes, accessories, Island. The best place to see this and souvenirs and crafts imported colorful extravaganza? On the from China make this a shopper’s Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront along- paradise. And after a day of bar- side the Hong Kong Cultural gaining, I like to recuperate in one Centre. See p. 198. of Stanley’s trendy yet casual • Hearing the Birds Sing at Yuen restaurants. See p. 218. Po Street Bird Garden: See pam- • Window-Shopping on Nathan pered birds at this unusual garden, Road: Open-fronted clothing brought by their owners so they boutiques, jewelry stores, camera can sing and communicate with shops, tailors, tourists from around other birds on their daily outing. the world, international cuisine, Vendors sell wooden birdcages, huge neon signs, and whirling traf- porcelain bird dishes, and other fic combine to make this boule- paraphernalia. See p. 171. vard Hong Kong’s most famous • Paying Respects at the Big shopping street. See p. 198. Buddha: Laze on the open aft • Shopping at Shanghai Tang: This deck during the 50-minute ferry 1930s-style Chinese department ride to Lantau island (and enjoy store is oh-so-chic, with lime- great views of the harbor and sky- green- or fuchsia-colored jackets, line along the way), followed by a Mao watches, 1930s reproduction hair-raising bus ride over lush hills home decor, and more. The shop- to see the world’s largest, seated, ping bag that comes with your pur- outdoor bronze Buddha, located chase is a bonus—just way too at the Po Lin Monastery. Com- cool—and the shop’s free postcards plete your pilgrimage with a vege- are also pretty fab. See p. 212. tarian meal at the monastery. See • Browsing for Chinese Sou- the “Lantau” section of chapter venirs: In addition to Shanghai 10, beginning on p. 246. Tang and Stanley Market, many • Hiking Across Lamma: An Chinese emporiums sell vases, excursion to this outlying island vase stands, porcelain figurines, will do your soul good. Start with chinaware, calligraphy brushes, the 35-minute ferry trip, followed birdcages, jade, silk jackets, teas, by a 90-minute hike across the and various Chinese crafts and island, perhaps some swimming at products. See chapter 8. a beach, and finally a meal of fresh • Strolling Tsim Sha Tsui’s Water- seafood at an open-air waterfront front: There’s a pedestrian prome- restaurant. See the “Lamma” sec- nade that stretches from the Star tion of chapter 10, beginning on Ferry eastward along Tsim Sha p. 252. Tsui and Tsim Sha Tsui East, • Expanding Your Cultural Hori- providing close-up views of the zons at the Hong Kong Museum 05_576690 ch01.qxd 1/24/05 10:19 AM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF HONG KONG

of Art: Hong Kong’s most impor- • Browsing Antiques Shops on tant art museum is a must-see for Hollywood Road: Whether you its vast collection of Chinese have thousands of dollars to spend antiquities, including ceramics, on Ming dynasty heirlooms or just jade, and lacquerware, as well as a couple of bucks for a snuff bot- its gallery of old paintings depict- tle, there’s something for everyone ing Hong Kong through the ages in the dozens of antiques shops and its changing exhibition of lining this famous Hong Kong contemporary Hong Kong art— Island road and from outdoor all against the dramatic backdrop vendor stalls on nearby Cat Street. of Hong Kong’s harbor outside its A sightseeing bonus is Man Mo windows. See p. 162. Temple (p. 194), Hong Kong’s • Reliving the Past at the Hong oldest temple, on Hollywood Kong Museum of History: For a Road. See the “Antiques & Col- quick 101 course on Hong Kong lectibles” section of chapter 8, history, make a visit to the Hong beginning on p. 208. Kong Museum of History one of • Hopping Aboard the Central/ your first priorities. A life-size dio- Mid-Levels Escalator: Hop aboard rama of a Neolithic settlement, the world’s longest covered people replicas of fishing boats and tradi- mover as it snakes its way uphill in tional houses, ethnic clothing, re- a series of escalators. You can hop created street scenes, displays of off at one of 29 exits to enjoy a colorful festivals, and the Chinese drink or meal at one of the many take on the opium wars are just establishments along its link, or some of the visual feasts awaiting take it to the top for a 20-minute visitors. If you see only one ride. See p. 58. museum during your stay, this • Meeting the People: Learn about should be it. See p. 164. pearls, Chinese antiques, feng shui • Having Your Fortune Told: Want (geomancy), tai chi (shadow box- to know about your future love ing), and other cultural traditions life, marriage, family, or career? on free, 1-hour tours and lectures Consult one of Hong Kong’s many given by local experts. Stop by one fortune-tellers; those who speak of the Hong Kong Tourism Board’s English can be found at Man Mo Visitor Information & Services Temple in the Western District, or Centres for the Cultural Kaleido- Wong Tai Sin temple and the Tin scope brochure outlining HKTB’s Hau Temple near the Temple “Meet the People” program. See Street Night Market. See p. 169, chapter 3’s “Visitor Information” 170, and 200, respectively. section, beginning on p. 43, for • Exploring the Western District: more information on the Hong Produce, bolts of cloth, live snakes, Kong Tourism Board. ginseng, dried seafood, Chinese • Taking High Tea at a Posh Hotel: herbs and medicines, a historic The British rulers may be gone, but temple, a museum dedicated to their legacy lives on in the after- Chinese and Western medicine, noon tea. Virtually all upper-class and antiques and collectibles are hotels offer afternoon tea, but my just some of the things you’ll see favorites are those offered by The while strolling through one of Peninsula and Hotel InterConti- Hong Kong’s most fascinating nental. Come for afternoon tea, neighborhoods. See p. 48. nibble on finger , and gaze away. See p. 156. 05_576690 ch01.qxd 1/24/05 10:19 AM Page 9

FROMMER’S FAVORITE HONG KONG EXPERIENCES 9

• Betting on the Horses: Join British pubs throughout the city. thousands of spectators (between Most pubs and bars offer a happy Sept and May) at Hong Kong’s hour that can stretch on for hours, favorite sporting event. The city with two drinks for the price of boasts two sophisticated racing one or drinks at reduced prices. tracks, and if you need help in See “The Bar, Pub & Lounge wagering bets, consider joining a Scene” section of chapter 9, begin- special tour of the races. See the ning on p. 228, for more on Hong “Spectator Sports” section of Kong’s pubs and bars. chapter 6, beginning on p. 180. • Celebrating Sundown with a • Regressing to Childhood at Cocktail: Many hotel lounges Ocean Park: Southeast Asia’s offer spectacular views of the city largest oceanarium and fun park as well as live music. As the sun boasts one of the world’s longest disappears, watch the city explode and fastest roller coasters among in neon. See “The Bar, Pub & its many thrill rides; a great cable- Lounge Scene” section of chapter car ride with breathtaking views of 9, beginning on p. 228, for venues the South China Sea; playgrounds with especially good views. just for kids; and a theater with • Stuffing Yourself at a Buffet seats that move with the action on Spread: If you have a big appetite the screen. If it’s wildlife you’re or like variety in your meal, there’s wild about, you’ll find the world’s no better bargain than Hong largest reef aquarium, a shark tank Kong’s countless all-you-can-eat with an underwater pedestrian buffet spreads. Almost all hotels tunnel, a fascinating collection of offer buffet lunches and dinners; weird and wonderful goldfish, an other restaurants may feature buf- aviary and butterfly dome, panda fets for lunch. Many offer an bears, and a dolphin and killer- assortment of international fare, whale show. A must for kids of all from Japanese sushi and Chinese ages. See p. 174. dishes to pasta and carveries. See • Escaping to the New Territories: chapter 5. The New Territories is a vast area • Relaxing at an Open-Air Seafood stretching from the densely popu- Restaurant: Get rid of stress by lated area of Kowloon to the Chi- relaxing over a meal of fresh seafood nese border. Almost half of Hong at one of Hong Kong’s rural water- Kong’s population is housed here front seafood restaurants. Favorite in huge satellite towns, but pock- places include Lamma island and ets of rural life and preserved Sai Kung in the New Territories. country parks remain. One of the See p. 253 and 245. best things to do is follow a self- • Eating Your Way Through guided hike that will take you past China: There’s no better place in traditional Chinese homes, tem- the world to sample regional Chi- ples, and other buildings in a nese cuisine than Hong Kong, small village. See p. 237. where you can eat everything from • Imbibing at Happy Hour at a the ubiquitous Cantonese food to British Pub: End a busy day of Sichuan, Shanghainese, Hunanese, sightseeing and shopping by rub- Beijing, Chiu Chow, and Pekingese bing elbows with Hong Kong’s dishes. See chapter 5. working population as they take • Dining with a View: Enjoy Chi- advantage of happy-hour prices in nese or Western cuisine at one of 05_576690 ch01.qxd 1/24/05 10:19 AM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF HONG KONG

Hong Kong’s many restaurants Chinese and Western musical ele- that offer spectacular views of ments. See p. 224. either Kowloon (with its glowing • Partying Till Dawn at Lan Kwai neon lights) or Hong Kong Island Fong: It’s standing-room only at (with its skyscrapers and Victoria bars and pubs in Central’s most Peak). In fact, Hong Kong boasts famous nightlife district, where so many restaurants with views, the action spills out onto the street the dilemma will be in the choos- and continues till dawn. Other ing. The absolute winners? Those burgeoning nightlife districts atop Victoria Peak. See “Victoria include SoHo, , Peak” in the “Around Hong Kong and . See chapter 9. Island” section of chapter 5, • Zipping Over to Macau: Macau, beginning on p. 149. a Portuguese colony until it was • Spending Time at the Temple handed back to the Chinese in Street Night Market: Highlights 1999, is just an hour away by jet- include shopping for casual cloth- foil and offers a fascinating blend ing, music, toys, and accessories; of Chinese and Mediterranean enjoying a meal at a lifestyles, evident in its spicy cui- (roadside food stall); watching sine, colorful architecture, temples, amateur street musicians; and hav- churches, and handful of special- ing your fortune told. See p. 236. interest museums. Although you • Listening to the World’s Largest can “do” Macau in a day, I strongly Professional Chinese Orchestra: urge you to spend at least a couple Established more than 25 years days in this tiny outpost. You’ll save ago, the 80-member Hong Kong money doing so, too—Macau’s Chinese Orchestra is the world’s hotels and restaurants cost a frac- largest, playing traditional and tion of their Hong Kong counter- modern Chinese instruments parts. See chapter 11. in orchestrations that combine

2 Best Hotel Bets Choosing a favorite hotel in Hong boasting the most ornate lobby in Kong can be a bit overwhelming, if Hong Kong, it retains the atmos- not impossible, because the choices phere of a colonial past, even are so vast and there are so many com- down to its restaurants, Gaddi’s petitors. Few cities offer such a large and The Verandah, both of which number of first-rate hotels, and few have changed little over the places can compete with the service decades. Even its new tower, with that has made the Hong Kong hotel high-tech rooms and a trendy industry legendary. With apologies to rooftop restaurant, only adds to the rest, here are my personal the general aura. See p. 71. favorites. For full details on Hong • Best for Business Travelers: If Kong’s hotels, see chapter 4. you can afford it, spring for a room • Best Historic Hotel: This cate- at The Ritz-Carlton, 3 Con- gory has no competition: The naught Rd., Central District Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim (& 800/241-3333), conveniently Sha Tsui (& 800/462-7899), located right in the heart of Cen- Hong Kong’s oldest hotel, has tral’s financial district. Small and long been the grand old hotel of intimate and filled with art and Hong Kong. Built in 1928 and antiques, it seems more like an 05_576690 ch01.qxd 1/24/05 10:19 AM Page 11

BEST HOTEL BETS 11

expensive apartment complex than 57-room boutique hotel featuring a hotel; it offers rooms with sweep- whimsical furniture in its lobby ing harbor views; excellent service; but minimalist, high-tech decor a state-of-the-art business center; and gadgets in its rooms. A slew of and a health club with a heated freebies (such as Internet broad- outdoor swimming pool. For those band access and Continental who like to stay connected, there breakfast), rooms that are divided are also rooms that come with a into distinct living, dining, and computer hooked up to the Inter- working areas, and monthly rates net, a fax, printer, and scanner. For make this a shoo-in for fashion- even more pampering, executive conscious travelers ready to bur- floors offer special privileges, row in. See p. 85. including a private lounge with • Best Lobby for Pretending That complimentary snacks and drinks You’re Rich: The Peninsula has throughout the day. And for busy long been the favorite lobby for executives with no time for shop- people-watching (no Japanese ping, the hotel even offers personal tourist misses it), but there’s shoppers. See p. 74. nothing that quite matches the • Best for Business Travelers Pay- overt extravagance of the Grand ing Their Own Way: The Best Hyatt, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai Western Rosedale on the Park, 8 (& 800/233-1234), which flaunts Shelter St., Causeway Bay (& 800/ space and is decorated like a 1930s 528-1234), is making waves with Art Deco ocean liner. Just walking its complimentary broadband down the curved staircase can Internet service and cordless make you feel like Greta Garbo. phones in each room, in-house See p. 76. mobile phones that keep you con- • Best Budget Hotel: The over- nected even if you step out of your whelming number-one choice has room, free drinks in your fridge, long been The Salisbury YMCA, and—in case you left your laptop Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui at home—a lounge with comput- (& 800/537-8483), with a fan- ers hooked to the Internet. Best of tastic location right next to the all, you won’t go broke staying prestigious (and very expensive) here. See p. 92. Peninsula and just a short walk • Best for a Romantic Getaway: from the Star Ferry. Rooms are Go to Macau, where the Westin simple but offer virtually every- Resort Macau, Estrada de Hac Sa thing (from cable TVs to wireless on Colôane Island (& 800/228- Internet access and coffeemakers); 3000), has the perfect and most some even have stunning harbor idyllic setting for those who want views. Throw in two inexpensive to get away from it all, with large restaurants, a health club, and rooms (each with private terrace) laundry facilities, and you have overlooking the sea, landscaped more than enough to satisfy grounds, indoor and outdoor budget-minded vacationers who pools, and a nearby beach for don’t want to sacrifice conven- moonlit walks. See p. 270. ience. See p. 98. • Best Trendy Hotel: Design guru • Best for Families: Again, the Philippe Starck is the mastermind number-one choice for families in behind Jia, 1–5 Irving St., Cause- terms of price, facilities, and loca- way Bay (& 852/3196 9000), a tion is The Salisbury YMCA (see 05_576690 ch01.qxd 1/24/05 10:19 AM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF HONG KONG

address and telephone above). It observes architectural rules for offers large suites great for families feng shui (geomancy) and special- (and even views of the famous izes in jetlag relief and Oriental Victoria Harbour and Hong Kong treatments. And to top it off, this Island), an inexpensive cafeteria hotel even offers free tai chi classes serving buffet meals, two indoor for its guests. See p. 71. swimming pools (including a chil- • Best Hotel Pool: The Grand dren’s pool), a play area on the Hyatt (see address and telephone fourth-floor terrace, and babysit- above) and Renaissance Harbour ting. See p. 98. View Hotel Hong Kong, 1 Har- • Best Service: Other hotels may be bour Rd., Wan Chai (& 800/ just as good, but probably none 228-9898), share one of Hong can match the professional, unob- Kong’s largest outdoor pools, sur- trusive service offered by The rounded by a lush, landscaped Peninsula (see address and tele- garden and with views of the har- phone above); it has one of the bor. See p. 76 and 85. highest staff-to-guest ratios in • Best Views: Most of Hong Kong’s Hong Kong. See p. 71. deluxe hotels boast harbor views, • Best Location: The Mandarin making this category the toughest. Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd., Cen- However, in my opinion, the best tral (& 800/526-6566), a long- harbor views are from the Kowloon time landmark in the heart of side, where you can feast your eyes Central, is just a few minutes’ not only on the boats plying the walk away from the Star Ferry, water but also on Hong Kong trams, MTR, and Hong Kong Island with its stunning architec- Station with service to the airport. ture, Victoria Peak, and, at night, It’s the best place to stay if you the shimmering of neon lights want to rub elbows with profes- and laser-light extravaganza of sionals who actually live and work Hong Kong’s nightly Symphony of in Hong Kong, but even better are Lights. And no hotel is as close to its rooms with harbor views, the water as the Hotel InterConti- which boast balconies and binoc- nental Hong Kong (see address ulars, making this also a good and telephone above), built right location for would-be spies pre- over the harbor; as many as 70% of tending they’re characters in a its rooms command sweeping John Le Carré novel. See p. 72. views of the water and boast floor- • Best Health Club: Most of Hong to-ceiling and wall-to-wall win- Kong’s deluxe hotels boast state- dows, making the most of one of of-the-art health clubs. But what I the world’s most breathtaking city like most about the health club views. See p. 71. at the Hotel InterContinental • Best for Those Addicted to the Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., Internet: The Grand Hyatt (see Tsim Sha Tsui (& 800/327- address and telephone above) 0200), is that it’s open 24 hours a offers rooms with cordless key- day, so you can work out when it boards that access the Internet and fits your schedule. There’s also an e-mail through an interactive TV outdoor, filled-to-the-brim hori- at speeds 50 times faster than a zonless Jacuzzi that gives the illu- conventional modem; views of the sion of flowing into the harbor, harbor are a bonus. The moder- and a state-of-the-art spa that ately priced Kowloon Hotel, 05_576690 ch01.qxd 1/24/05 10:19 AM Page 13

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19–21 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui Kong. Bishop Lei International (& 800/262-9467), impresses House, 4 Robinson Rd., Mid- with its sophisticated “interactive Levels (& 852/2868 0828), is telecenter,” allowing access to the located about halfway up Victoria Internet, interfacing with a fax Peak, with great views from its machine (which also acts as a smallish rooms. Nearby ethnic printer), and even containing restaurants and neighborhood video games. Best of all: Internet bars abound, but for a real taste of access is free. See p. 76 and 89, Mid-Levels living, travel the esca- respectively. lator that local residents use to get • Best for Art Lovers: The Island to and from their jobs in Central. Shangri-La Hong Kong, Pacific See p. 91. Place, Central (& 800/942-5050), • Best Hotel for Dining: Hong is a gorgeous hotel with more than Kong boasts some of the best 700 Viennese chandeliers, lush Tai hotel restaurants in the world, Ping carpets, flower arrangements, but for an all-around winner, and more than 500 paintings and The Peninsula (see address and artworks. But the clincher is the telephone above) offers a variety 16-story-high Chinese painting in of restaurants that never disap- the hotel atrium, drawn by 40 point, from the longtime favorite artists from Beijing and believed to Gaddi’s, serving traditional French be the largest landscape painting in cuisine, to the over-the-top Felix, the world. See p. 84. designed by Philippe Starck, as • Best for Ex-Pat Wannabes: well as restaurants serving Can- Mid-Levels has long been a tonese, Swiss, and Japanese food. favorite residential area for ex-pats See p. 71. living and working in Hong

3 Best Dining Bets I’m convinced Hong Kong has some • Best Spot for a Business Lunch: of the best restaurants in the world— Since 1963, business travelers which makes it extremely difficult to have favored the Mandarin Grill, choose the best of the best. Neverthe- Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 5 Con- less, the following are my personal naught Rd., Central (& 852/ favorites. For full details on Hong 2522 0111), conveniently located Kong’s restaurants, see chapter 5. in the heart of Hong Kong’s • Best Spot for a Romantic Din- financial and business district. It ner: With views of Hong Kong’s offers drawing-room comfort and fabled harbor, live piano music, high-powered food, a winning French cuisine, and one of Hong combination for clinching those Kong’s best wine lists, Petrus, business deals. And since no chil- Island Shangri-La Hotel, Supreme dren are allowed except for Sun- Court Road, Central (& 852/ day brunch, business deals won’t 2820 8590), sets the mood for a have to compete with toddler the- special evening à deux. You’ll want atrics. See p. 130. to linger for some time here, savor- • Best Spot for a Celebration: An ing the Mediterranean-influenced elegant, colonial-age setting, atten- food, the castle-like ambience, the tive service, dependably good view, and each other. See p. 132. French haute cuisine, and an 05_576690 ch01.qxd 1/24/05 10:19 AM Page 14

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extensive wine list make Gaddi’s, • Best : With The Peninsula hotel, Salisbury some of the world’s best Can- Road, Tsim Sha Tsui (& 852/ tonese restaurants located in 2315 3171), a natural for a splurge Hong Kong, this is obviously a or special celebration. If, however, tough call, but you can’t go wrong your idea of a celebration is more at the very sophisticated and classy exuberant and youthful, you can Yan Toh Heen, Hotel InterConti- do no better than M at the Fringe, nental Hong Kong, Salisbury 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central Road, Tsim Sha Tsui (& 852/ (& 852/2877 4000), a Hong 2721 1211), where the emphasis Kong favorite for its quirky inte- is on stark simplicity, a view of the rior, artsy crowd, and always excel- harbor, and traditional and cre- lent creative cuisine. See p. 135. ative dishes that border on Chi- • Best Decor: The avant-garde nese nouvelle cuisine. See p. 118. Felix, in The Peninsula hotel, • Best Chinese for the Uninitiated: Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui If you’re unfamiliar with Chinese (& 852/2315 3188), was designed food beyond sweet-and-sour pork by Philippe Starck. In addition to and feel—perhaps reluctantly— providing Hong Kong’s most that Hong Kong is the place to unusual, innovative setting, the widen your horizons, Shang restaurant offers stunning views, Palace, Kowloon Shangri-La one of the world’s smallest discos, Hotel, 64 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha and slightly exhibitionist bath- Tsui East (& 852/2733 8754), is a rooms. Wear your trendiest duds— good introduction to the almost you, too, will be part of the display. limitless variety of Cantonese food, See p. 116. all listed on an English menu. It’s • Best View: In a town famous for its also a good place to try dim sum views, you might as well go to the for the first time. The helpful staff very top, where the curved facade of is happy to make recommenda- Cafe Deco, Peak Galleria, Victoria tions. The elaborately decorated Peak (& 852/2849 5111), offers lacquered walls and Chinese Hong Kong’s best panorama, along lanterns all fit the fantasy of a Chi- with live jazz in the evening and nese restaurant in Asia. See p. 118. moderately priced—though occa- • Best Chinese Hot Spot: Make sionally mediocre—international reservations early for Hutong, on cuisine. Reserve a harbor-view win- the 28th floor of an office build- dow seat a couple of weeks in ing at 1 , Tsim Sha advance; what you’re really paying Tsui (& 852/3428 8342). This for here is the unparalleled view. See place is as hip as a Chinese restau- p. 149. rant can be, with fantastic views • Best Wine List: Not only does over Hong Kong, a darkened inte- SPOON by Alain Ducasse, rior with splashes of red lighting, Hotel InterContinental Hong and innovative northern Chinese Kong, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha cuisine. Dining here will want to Tsui (& 852/2313 2256), offer make you live forever, if only to great harbor views, excellent con- see what can possibly top this; this temporary French cuisine, and being Hong Kong, something impeccable service, but it also eventually will. See p. 122. boasts a selection of 3,000 bottles • Best Dim Sum Experience: The of wine, on view at the restaurant’s quaint ceiling fans, spittoons, and entrance. See p. 113. wooden booths evoke a 1930s 05_576690 ch01.qxd 1/24/05 10:19 AM Page 15

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ambience at Tea House, interpretation of Franco-Asian 24–26 Stanley St., Central cuisine in this part of the hemi- (&852/2523 5464). First opened sphere (same owner/chef as the in 1933, it’s one of Hong Kong’s Vong in New York City), as well as oldest restaurants, famous for its great views of the harbor and a dim sum and filled daily with reg- nattily dressed crowd. See p. 133. ular customers. It’s hard to find an • Best Seafood: Huge decorative empty seat here but worth the seafood tanks and views of Victoria effort. See p. 139. Harbour provide the perfect setting • Best American Cuisine: There’s for a memorable seafood dinner at no better place in town for a Cae- Yü, Hotel InterContinental Hong sar salad than Napa, Kowloon Kong, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Shangri-La Hotel, 64 Mody Rd., Tsui (& 852/2721 1211). Lobster, Tsim Sha Tsui East (& 852/2733 crabs, prawns, abalone, mussels, 8752), where you can follow your and fish are kept alive until the salad with Californian cuisine that decisive moment. Chefs prepare includes pastas and seafood. The your food according to your great harbor views make it a per- wishes; there are also imported oys- fect place for a relaxed lunch or ters and a sushi bar. See p. 114. dinner. See p. 117. • Best Buffet Spread: Lots of hotels • Best French Cuisine: Petrus, offer buffets, but none can match Island Shangri-La (see “Best Spot the sheer extravagance and chic for a Romantic Dinner,” above) is atmosphere of café TOO, Island the top French restaurant in more Shangri-La Hotel, Supreme Court ways than one: It’s located on the Road, Central (& 852/2820 56th floor and offers breathtaking 8571, ext. 8571). Overlooking the harbor views. Decorated like a greenery of Hong Kong Park and French castle, it features contem- sporting a hip, contemporary look, porary French creations and one of it features open kitchens and seven Hong Kong’s most definitive wine “stations” of food presentations lists, delivered by a professional spread throughout the restaurant, and discreet staff. See p. 132. eliminating the assembly-line • Best Italian Cuisine: There are a atmosphere inherent in most buf- lot of contenders in this category, fet restaurants. The danger? The but the harbor views, airy palatial temptation to try every delectable setting, and traditional northern dish on display. See p. 136. Italian home-style cooking com- • Best Steaks: Juicy U.S. prime bine to make Grissini, Grand Midwestern beef, broiled to perfec- Hyatt Hong Kong Hotel, 1 Har- tion, is the forte of American chain bour Rd., Wan Chai (&852/2588 Ruth’s Chris Steak House, 68 1234), a favorite choice for lunch Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East or dinner. See p. 143. (& 852/2366 6000) and 89 • Best Western/Asian Fusion Cui- Queensway, Central (& 852/2522 sine: Trendy restaurants utilizing 9090), along with side dishes of Western and Asian ingredients to mashed potatoes, sautéed spinach, create new dishes are the vogue in and Caesar salad. This place is Hong Kong, but few carry it off as guaranteed to satisfy the cravings of masterfully as Vong, Mandarin the most dedicated carnivore. See Oriental Hotel, 5 Connaught Rd., p. 117. Central (& 852/2522 0111), • Best Burgers and Beer: Dan offering what is arguably the best Ryan’s Chicago Grill, with two 05_576690 ch01.qxd 1/24/05 10:19 AM Page 16

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locations both sides of the harbor crowds of Hong Kong have at 88 Queensway, Central (&852/ pushed you to the breaking point, 2845 4600), and Ocean Terminal take a ferry to one of the open-air (& 852/2735 6111), offers casual seafood restaurants on the water- dining, good burgers (and other front of Sok Kwu Wan village on good American food), and drinks Lamma island, where you can throughout the day; its Kowloon dine on fresh seafood, drink a beer branch even provides a view of the or two, and regain perspective. For busy harbor. See p. 120. even more relaxation, hike to one • Best Pizza: Located in Hong of the island’s beaches. See p. 252. Kong’s prime nightlife district, • Best Afternoon Tea: For that Baci Pizza, 1 Lan Kwai Fong, most British institution, no place Central (& 852/2840 0153), is a is more famous than the golden- small casual pizzeria offering age and unparalleled Peninsula delicious, wafer-thin pizzas at rea- Hotel Lobby, Salisbury Road, sonable prices, as well as pastas. Tsim Sha Tsui (& 852/2920 See p. 142. 2888), where you can nibble on • Best Outdoor Dining: Atop Vic- delicate finger sandwiches and toria Peak, away from the constant scones, watch the parade of peo- drone of Hong Kong’s traffic, is the ple, and listen to live classical delightful Peak Lookout, 121 music being played from an Peak Rd., Victoria Peak (& 852/ upstairs balcony. See p. 156. 2849 1000), which serves interna- • Best Sunday Brunch: You’ll be tional cuisine. From an outdoor spoiled forever—or at least for the terrace surrounded by lush foliage, rest of the day—if you begin Sun- you can actually hear the birds day morning at The Verandah, sing. Some tables provide views of 109 Repulse Bay Rd., Repulse Bay Hong Kong Island’s southern (& 852/2812 2722), complete coast. Musicians entertain nightly with a three-piece band. Wonder- with oldies but goldies. See p. 150. fully reminiscent of the colonial • Best for Families: Mövenpick era, it features Hong Kong’s most Marché, Peak Tower, Victoria famous Sunday spread, with main Peak (& 852/2849 2000), is a courses like eggs Benedict from a cafeteria offering something for menu, a carving of the day, pasta everyone (pizza and pasta for the cooked to order, sushi, dim sum, kids, international fare and drinks and more. If ever there were a for the parents), along with great place that inspired champagne for views of Hong Kong. It’s also one breakfast, this is it. See p. 151. of the few restaurants that actually • Best Desserts: I was born without acknowledge the existence of kids, a sweet tooth, but even I was with a children’s corner complete tempted when the dessert cart was with a toddler slide, toys, crayons, wheeled out at the end of a mem- and other diversions. For older orable dinner at Sabatini, Royal kids, there’s a Ripley’s Believe It or Garden hotel, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Not! Odditorium, Madame Tus- Sha Tsui East (& 852/2733 saud’s, and a motion-simulation 2000). The sinfully rich creations theater in the same building on were all lovingly described and the Peak. See p. 150. looked equally delicious. In the • Best Place to Chill Out: If the end, I went for the tiramisu, and I stress of travel and the noise and can’t imagine the meal without it. See p. 118.