Our Industry Mourns; a Memorial for Mark–P

• Our Industry Mourns; A Memorial for Mark–p. 8 • The Importance of Downsizing–p.10 THE POINT IN THIS ISSUE THE QUARTERLY JOURNAL OF THE ASSOCIATION OF PROFESSIONAL PIERCERS 4 FROM THE EDITORS BOARD OF DIRECTORS Brian Skellie—President 6 Cody Vaughn—Vice-President PRESIDENT’S CORNER Aaron Pollack—Secretary Paul King—Treasurer

(Currently Unfilled)—Medical Liaison 7 Ash Misako—Outreach Coordinator CHARLES GATEWOOD REMEMBERED Miro Hernandez—Public Relations Director Steve Joyner—Legislation Liaison 9 Jef Saunders—Membership Liaison MEMBER UPDATES ADMINISTRATOR Caitlin McDiarmid 10 EDITORIAL STAFF MENTOR PROGRAM & CONFERENCE SURVIVAL TIPS Managing Editor of Content & Archives—Kendra Jane Berndt Managing Editor of Content & Statistics—Marina Pecorino 12 Art Director & Contributing Editor—Jim Ward AN INTERVIEW WITH GUS DIAMOND Contributing Editor—Elayne Angel ADVERTISING 14 [email protected] PREPARING YOUR STUDIO FOR CONFERENCE Front Cover: Will VonDoome & Adam Richins Photo by Autumn Swisher 16 ASSOCIATION OF PROFESSIONAL PIERCERS 1.888.888.1APP • safepiercing.org • [email protected] THE SAILOR SID ARCHIVES Donations to The Point are always appreciated. 18 The Association of Professional Piercers is a California-based, international non-profit organization dedicated to the dissemination of vital health and safety information about body GUEST SPOT ETIQUETTE piercing to piercers, health care professionals, legislators, and the general public. Material submitted for publication is subject to editing. Submissions should be sent via email 20 to [email protected]. The Point is not responsible for claims made by our advertisers. However, we reserve the NOSTRIL PIERCING TECHNIQUES PART 1 right to reject advertising that is unsuitable for our publication. 24 SWEET GAUGES! AN ETHNOGRAPHY

34 BODY MODIFICATION SURVEY

ISSUE 75 3 • Marina Pecorino fessional risks, from which I’ve had some incredible experiences. It has been quite a journey to learn that there FROM I was born and raised in north Florida, which unfortu- is a place (or several) for the real “me” in the workforce. nately is not known for its diversity. So, having the chance In this issue, Stephie Von Hütter Thomas describes a THE EDITORS to experience a convention space filled with piercing in- similar sensation during her graduate studies. The peo- dustry professionals definitely has a unique impact on KENDRA BERNDT ple I’ve met and worked with as a result of Conference me each year at Conference. Seeing so many members of MARINA PECORINO and the APP have played a significant role in my profes- a subculture in close proximity is incredible on its own, The Point Editors sional identity and the course of my work life. but experiencing such a high level of colleague support As I prepare to embark on a summer’s worth of ex- and strong eagerness for professional growth makes all ploration, culminating in our shared week in Vegas, I the difference. As we all prepare for this exciting week of reflect on all the professionals I’ve connected with since classes, camaraderie, and fun, please take a read through my first APP Conference in 2012. Since then, I’ve wit- our pre-Conference issue. Julie Taylor and April Thomas nessed and been a part of industry collaborations at all have provided some tips for preparing from a business different levels around the world. As a result, I am fi- perspective. Frankie Pistone has written some very im- nally learning that travel and consistent work are not portant things to consider if you are covering at a studio mutually exclusive. • Kendra Jane B during Conference as well. Conference is a family reunion of sorts. Every year On May 1, 2016 the province I live in was struck with I think I have already read the above passage a hun- As I get ready to embark on my second Grand Sum- piercers save up, plan, and buzz about seeing all of their the largest disaster in my country’s history. What I have dred times and the contents of its message makes me mer Adventure and and a shift in career directions, I industry family. The volunteer family is already buzzing also seen come out of this tragedy is a special intimacy, look more forward to our Conference than ever before. find myself thinking about the role that APP has played with talks of hugs, coffee runs, nerdy late night puzzling, and openness to help and to share with those in need. This is the one week a year I soak in every minute, ev- in the past several years of my life. I can honestly say and Legos. It truly is an amazing week, I can’t wait to see Although I do not live in Fort McMurray, where this ery $6.00 bottle of water, every smoke filled casino, and that volunteering has forever changed me. The support my industry family and meet new members of our tribe tragedy occurred, it is a city that has supported my fam- every tired morning. There are absolutely no inconve- I’ve received from my fellow volunteers and colleagues in just a few short weeks! ily for decades and is home to many of my friends. As niences, and everything is a pure source of genuine hap- has helped provide me with the confidence to take pro- this tragedy and the recovery efforts unfold, we are all piness and awakening. coping in different ways, as is the case when struck with As you read our pre-conference issue I urge you to grief, sorrow, or any other very intense emotion. When I change your mindset as you pack and prepare. In this am sad or happy or anywhere inbetween I work through issue you will find excellent tips from our mentor team my feelings in the kitchen. to lessen the stress before you even leave home, setting ProChem SSW I have also been reading a book that has struck a yourself up for a successful week. If your worry is about Monthly Mail-In chord in me. It is is both about life and cooking and I leaving your shop while at Conference, April Thomas would like to share a little of it with you, our readers. and Julie Taylor have put together some advice on en- Spore Testing Service suring your studio will be more than prepared for your When we cook, we are expressing ourselves com- absence. pletely, for we always cook within the context of our The ProChem SSW integrates three As I wrote, edited, and compiled this issue I felt the lives. If we are feeling lonely, stressed, generous, too essential criteria for proper steam butterflies start in my stomach, but this year I will be busy, happy—whatever is happening in that mo- sterilization: time, temperature, and approaching Conference from a different perspective, ment—when we step up to the stove, we cook with steam. When processed along with a one that will allow me to see my conference family in a load, it indicates with a margin of Record Keeping Booklet: $17.95 these circumstances as much as any ingredient or reci- whole new light. I urge you to do the same; open your safety whether the proper steam Use this record keeping booklet to record pe. This kind of attention to the particulars of the mo- sterilization criteria have been achieved mechanical parameters and chemical and hearts and minds, let down your guard (as hard as it 12 Tests with Matching Controls: $84.00 biological test results. You can also document ment won’t be found in the recipe we are using, yet it at point of placement. may seem) and experience the week, really experience Our Spore Testing services are available for preventive maintenance and sterilizer repairs. will have an enormous influence on the final product Steam/Autoclave, Chemical Vapor and Dry Heat it. Amazing things can happen when you do. I look for- sterilization cycles. and how much enjoyment we will receive from both Bag of 250 Integrators: $39.95 Mesa Labs, NBBS and ATS ward very much to hugging my family, my friends, and Mesa Labs Monthly Service includes: North Bay Bioscience (NBBS) and Autoclave the doing and the consuming of it. the best colleagues on the planet. So whether this is your - Prompt phone notification on all failed tests Testing Service (ATS) have been providing I want to encourage and support us to look more - Email Statement of Test Results To check your autoclave on a daily basis between sterilizer monitoring products to body art first or your twenty-first Conference, I hope you will al- - Secure access to test results online 24/7 regular weekly spore tests: professionals for decades. Since both companies deeply and experience more deeply, in our everyday - Place one ProChem SSW Integrator in rst - Email Reminders to Test are now a part of Mesa Labs, our products and low yourself to find the extraordinary in the mundane, sterilization cycle of the day. lives. There is a hunger for a more considered life, one - 24 hour incubation of Steam Tests services are provided direct to your studio to the irreplaceable in what others dismiss as irrelevant; to - After sterilization cycle is complete, verify the enhance your infection control protocol. Call, where our everyday circumstances are not a series of - Gram staining verification on all failed tests ink has reached the ACCEPT window. have a deeper life experience. - A control strip that accompanies each test strip email or visit us online today for more details on inconveniences to get through (or around) as quickly as - If the dark bar does not reach the ACCEPT how we can assist you. 1 - Certificate of Participation possible, but rather a source of awakening and pleasure. Velden, Dana. Finding Yourself in the Kitchen. Rodale. New York. 2015. window, reprocessing is required. We don’t have to go looking for it, we don’t have to purchase it, because it’s right here. 1 1.800.289.7786 [email protected] www.sporetesting.com

4 THE POINT ISSUE 75 5 THE PRESIDENT’S CORNER CHARLES

SALUTATIONS! s I eagerly anticipate our next meeting, GATEWOOD BRIAN SKELLIE the gratitude that I feel towards my col- APP President Aleagues in this organization is respon- REMEMBERED sible for a reliable renewal of enthusiasm. The APP mission, presence, and conscientiousness KENDRA JANE B. are core to my personal experience, education, The Point Editor and priorities. My purpose remains the same although my responsibilities change after this Conference. Getting to know the membership better over harles Gatewood, 73, had an indisput- In our winter issue, we’ll thoroughly ex- these years working within the organization and able impact on our industry, although plore the incredible impact Charles had on at the helm has been a privilege. By making cer- he was never a piercer. On Thursday, our industry. tain sacrifices and spending a lot of time on the April 29, 2016 Charles passed away due road, I have appreciated real life meetings with toC complications from a fall on April 8, 2016. “Charles Gatewood, the man known as ‘the an- quite a few of you. It has been both informative According to Betty Gatewood, Charles’s sister, thropologist of the forbidden’, has been docu- and delightful to visit with you, your studios, the earlier fall from the third floor balcony of menting America’s sexual underground and al- and manufacturing facilities. his apartment was a “suicide attempt as he had ternative subcultures since the 1960s,” These days, it is much easier (via the myriad left several notes behind.”1 No matter the cause “And though his name may not be that familiar of technological advancements available) to find of his death, the burden of grief is not eased. to some younger pervs whose knowledge of fetish out more about our colleagues and their work In addition to numerous private collections, history is not that broad, the chances are that and attitudes. I’m convinced that this friendly Charles Gatewood’s images have been archived even these people will instantly recognize some professional espionage/stalking following is one in over a dozen libraries and universities across of his best known images… Gatewood’s work of the best things for collegiality in our business. the United States. The Gatewood Archive is cur- can be traced back to photographs that appeared Evermore accessible technology has facilitated rently curated at the Bancroft Library at Uni- in the late ’80s ReSearch publication “Modern a greater sense of familiarization and a willing- versity of California, Berkeley, which is now the Primitives,” the seminal work on body modifica- ness to communicate. This development has steward of the lion’s share of the Gatewood Ar- tion cults and characters, which introduced the provided a foundation for friendships and in- chive. Before his death, Charles Gatewood do- original Modern Primitive, San Francisco’s Fakir teraction with people who I may have otherwise nated his video archive to the Body Piercing Ar- Musafar, to a much wider audience.” been more reserved with, and I live with a daily chive. We digitized the first ⅓ of the collection “Much of the activity that Gatewood docu- appreciation of how online translation provides last year, with the remaining ⅔ to be digitally mented on the margins of society in the ’70s, ’80s access to the world. preserved this year. and early ’90s is now part of contemporary youth Our community seems to be rising, bolstered The Gatewood Archive contains several thou- culture, today, tattooing is commonplace, and pop by social media and a culture of sharing among sand vintage and modern silver prints, 250,000 stars regularly appear in SM-influenced attire. As peers. Access to current information and peer slides and negatives, plus contact sheets, proof sexual and body modification practices once seen review alongside beautiful examples of our work prints, personal papers, correspondence, over a as radical and taboo become increasingly accept- have created a level of accountability for achiev- thousand books, and special collections. The ar- ed by the mainstream consciousness, Gatewood’s ing our goals and is keeping this trade lively. chive also contains three films (including a copy photography can be seen as showing the way.” Aptitude and quality are continually improved of Dances Sacred and Profane) and a selection of —Fetish newsletter, TheFetishistas upon and excellence may be recognized. prints by other fine art photographers.2 Even as I step down from Presidency this summer, we have committed to participate in- ternationally to keep the momentum with fellow 1 New York Times, May 4, 2016 “Charles Gatewood, Photographer of Extremes, Dies at 73,” by William Grimes http://www.nytimes.com/movie/revi trade organizations going. I find it refreshing to ew?res=9B0DEEDF1E31F930A25755C0A961948260 see the progress of LBP and the UKAPP, along 2 Wikipedia with the continuing success of our Associate Gatewood, Charles (1999). Badlands. Goliath. ISBN 3980587649. Corporate Members, APTPI, ASAP, BMXnet Gatewood, Charles (1999). Badlands. Goliath. p. 17. ISBN 3980587649. and meetings in Germany, Spain, and France. Donohoe, Joe; Lynn Rubenzer (October 2012). “Charles Gatewood: Story of the Eye”. Specious Species (Six): 19–30. Let’s make this happen! Gatewood, Charles (1975). Sidetripping. Strawberry Hill Books. ISBN 0891550011

6 THE POINT ISSUE 75 7 MEMBER UPDATES

Aaron Pollock APP Secretary

he APP has a lot going on this summer, and we mine if the meeting has met the required quorum. Non- want you to join us! Read through for all the lat- voting members are welcome to attend, as well as one est updates on Conference, Camp APP, raffle up- representative from each APP Corporate Sponsor. If you dates, and the Members Meeting Notice. wish to address the board and membership, you may re- T serve a time slot by emailing [email protected]. CONFERENCE 2016 ROOM BLOCK Attending Conference? Be sure to book in the APP There will be a Members Mingle before the meeting, room block at Bally’s! Booking within the block allows 6:30-7:00pm. Refreshments will be served. you to have the option of choosing not to pay the resort BODY PIERCING ARCHIVE RAFFLE fee (which is usually mandatory), and that alone saves The APP and Body Piercing Archive are very excited you $30 a day! to announce a charity fundraising auction for which all Filling the room block benefits the APP’s ability to ne- proceeds will go towards the BPA and their efforts in gotiate the spaces and rates we are given in the future for preserving our industry’s history! conference spaces and hotel rooms. The APP is able to Over the past year, beautiful handmade items were retain its meeting spaces only when the room block is meticulously constructed from donated iconic piercing filled. Please, help us achieve our goal of filling the room industry t-shirts. Sharon McLaughlin Gowen has gener- block this year! ously donated her time in fabricating quilts, backpacks, After a long day and night of socializing, being able to bags, and Ipad cases for this cause. take one elevator back to your room is way better than The items will be on display and the silent auction will Come learn and hangout taking a bus, taxi, or walking numerous blocks back to happen at the 2016 APP Conference! another hotel. Staying in the host hotel fosters a bigger Thank you Sharon and Gene Gowen for making this with the Latinamerican sense of community at the event and keeps you close to happen! Body Piercing community your home base for the week! CONFERENCE SITE SURVEY Check out the links below to learn more about how to Registration includes: Every year hundreds of piercers, counter staff, shop book in the APP room block at Bally’s, our host hotel for owners, and jewelry manufacturers look forward to the • All classes 2016. The room block closes June 21, so be sure to book Association of Professional Piercers Conference. For the • Almost half of the classes are taught today! APP ROOM BLOCK REGISTRATION past several years we have met in the desert oasis known • in English CONFERENCE 2016 RAFFLE as Las Vegas. As we look forward to planning our Con- • All meals during conference Do you like raffles that include awesome prizes? At- ferences for 2019 and beyond we want to hear from you! • Accommodations during the tendees have multiple opportunities to win prizes, with Please take a few minutes to complete our survey from • • event (in a shared room) separate raffles being held on Tuesday, Wednesday, and which we will be able to gather information pertinent • Transportation from Mexico City Thursday. to creating and putting on the best Conference possible. • to the venue and back Our Vendors in the past have generously donated Thank you in advance for your time, the APP appreciates prizes with wholesale values from $50-$15,000! your ideas and opinions. TAKE THE SURVEY HERE. • Opening party Don’t wait to buy your tickets at Conference! Purchase CAMP APP 2016 • Banquet Dinner in advance through your registration and have the tick- • Jewelry Expo pass Join us for CAMP APP 2016! ets waiting for you when you arrive! The 2nd Annual CAMP APP will be held OCT 11-15 at The best gamble in Vegas is waiting for you at Confer- Hard Labor Creek State Park in beautiful Rutledge, GA ence 2016! Register for Conference now! We hope you will join us for a week of fun, learning, MEMBERS MEETING NOTICE and excitement at our 2nd annual Members Retreat. Members Meeting Wednesday July 27th 7-8:30pm This meeting will cover all current APP business for the membership. Voting members will sign in to deter-

8 THE POINT ISSUE 75 9 nice shoes. We suggest bringing multiple pairs. You will ready to go on your phone or laptop can make a lasting THE MENTOR PROGRAM track a lot of miles in Vegas! impression while networking. With all this networking Even if you don’t normally use lotions and moisturizers don’t be surprised if your battery needs more charg- & CONFERENCE SURVIVAL TIPS you will very likely need them in Vegas. It’s dry in the des- ing than normal. So ensuring you have chargers for all ert and even drier in the hotel. Battling dry lips in a dry of your electronic devices is mandatory. It’s also a good CALE BELFORD climate can be even more challenging. Bring as much chap idea to have a stack of business cards at the ready. We all The Mentor Team stick as you can. If you will be laying by the pool or leaving know technology isn’t always there when we need it, so the hotel, sunscreen will save you from a nasty sunburn. in case of an emergency or if you misplace your phone, Even if you only go in the sun for a few minutes, apply keeping some contacts in your wallet can be a lifesaver. hat is the mentor program? It is a fantastic Conference, please do not hesitate to contact anyone on sunscreen! Las Vegas is no joke during the month of July! By downloading the 2016 Conference app you will be outreach system started by Ryan Ouellette the Mentor Team. This year’s Mentor Team includes Ash Pain relievers, allergy pills, and the like can make a world able to check out your schedule, find where you are go- in 2009. His dream was to essentially build Misako, Billy Wood, Chris Theis, and Cale Belford. They of difference when you need it most. Make sure to bring ing, and to get any last minute updates. small conference families that could work as well as all of our mentors can be easily identified at enough to last you through your stay and a few extra days Always have water with you! Remember that Las Ve- Wtogether as a group and lean on each other for support. Conference by their Mentor Ribbons. just in case. Taking vitamins in advance of arriving will im- gas is a desert. Staying hydrated is not only important, We have seen incredible progress and have had wonder- Part of being a mentor means that we want to ensure prove your chances of staying healthy so don’t delay. but is a key to having a good experience. Awesome APP ful feedback when it comes to the program. We look foryou are prepared and set up for success before arriving Things in Las Vegas can be expensive and eating be- water bottles are available for purchase at the merchan- ward to continuing this process for years to come. in Vegas. It’s natural to get caught up in the excitement tween classes, events, and socializing isn’t always easy to dise booth. There are also water dispensers provided Our mentors are well-rounded, experienced confer- of going to Vegas making it easy to forget even the most fit in your schedule. Having a supply of on-the-go snacks throughout the conference area so feel free to use them! ence goers who want to ensure that the new attendees at basic necessities. Las Vegas is a lot like the Bermuda Tri- that don’t require a fridge or preparation can make your The APP Board of Directors and Administrator, along Conference have an outstanding time. The mentor team angle, with all the activity and controlled chaos, it can be week less stressed. There are some grocery stores around with the Conference Staff, Volunteers and Mentors all acts to pair mentors and mentees based on similar inter- easy to lose track of things. So basically, if it will break to help you stock up for your stay if needed. want you to have an exceptional experience. If there are ests, areas of knowledge, and class schedule needs. We your heart to lose it, leave it at home! Especially during this week of networking, it is impor- any questions we can answer or concerns that should be use information built from a survey sent out during reg- However, if there are a few small creature comforts tant to stay connected. Having a copy of your portfolio addressed, please do not hesitate to contact us. istration. These small groups consisting of a mentor and from home you need to make your day a little easier three to four mentees will help to assist and encourage or brighter, especially things you don’t feel comfortable each other and provide a positive and enriching Confer- borrowing or may be difficult to find, then bring it. The ence experience. Mentors are available to support men- hotel will provide you with towels, soap, shampoo and tees; providing reassurance if they feel overwhelmed, conditioner, even an ironing board and hair dryer. Most giving assistance with class and event schedules, or to of the time you can find other items in shops around the simply give advice on where to find the tastiest tacos or a hotel, but they will be limited and expensive. If you are delicious vegan donut. Don’t be afraid to take full advan- particular, don’t forget them. tage of this opportunity! You shouldn’t bring every credit card you have, but Do you plan on attending Conference for the first unexpected things may happen and it’s best to be pre- time? Do you have questions that you would like to have pared. Always keep your emergency funds separate from answered, need help selecting your classes, or would you your spending funds. simply like to have a friend before arriving in Vegas? The When it comes to clothing, be sure to bring enough APP Mentor Program is here to help! outfits to last you a little longer than your stay. You will If you are a first or second year attendee and would be experiencing long days with many different activities like assistance from a mentor chosen specifically for you, and some people find it comfortable to change through- please email [email protected] with MENTEE in out the day. You may also want to wear different clothing the subject line. Be sure to include your name, telephone to your activities, classes, meet-ups, special events, etc. number, and other contact information in the email. And don’t forget, accidents happen, so it’s never a bad There is technically no deadline for signup, but the ear- idea to have a spare shirt or pair of pants just in case. The lier you enroll the more you will get out of the program! classrooms and the hotel can get a little chilly, so you will We are thrilled that you have decided to come to Confer- want a sweater to make sure you are comfortable! If you ence this year and we are all waiting to meet you. enjoy dressing up for the Banquet dinner, special events, We genuinely want each and every one of our new at- or just in general, make sure to bring your accessories. tendees to get the most out of their conference experi- You will likely also want to look your best while enjoying ence and hope that the mentor program helps to make the pool and hot tubs! Don’t forget about the opening this possible. If you have any questions about the men- party, which takes place this year at the Bally’s pool. tor program, becoming a mentor, or being a mentee at There may be times when you want relief from your

10 THE POINT ISSUE 75 11 AN INTERVIEW WITH GUS DIAMOND MATTE ERICKSON The Body Piercing Archive

he Body Piercing Archive I was a hack piercer (from presents a new series of in- ‘90-’93) and opened my formal interviews with some first shop in ‘94. I opened of the most interesting people Paragon in ‘95 and sold it BPA: Many of us know that in your Tin the body piercing community. in ‘01 before leaving Hawaii. spare time you are a pirate. Why a pi- Often the importance of the spoken BPA: Who has most influenced you rate, say instead of a buccaneer? word and the stories handed down over your body piercing career? Gus: I’ll be a Pirate, Buccaneer, or from one generation to another is Privateer whatever pays the most... ;) forgotten. We hope you enjoy this Gus: Allen Falkner, him and I were lighthearted (sometimes [pierced] friends before piercing. BPA: What keeps you busy now that tongue-in-cheek) insight into our BPA: You are part of an elite group of you no longer pierce? industry’s history. people that has attended all 20 Con- Gus: I am a video editor, but am still Our first interview is with Gus ferences. What were the first confer- looking for a quality shop to help Diamond, a piercer, cigar smoker, ences like? and work with in my area. long-time supporter of the APP, Gus: It was amazing being in the BPA: Who have been your role mod- Super Volunteer, and most impor- same room with so many people that els over your involvement in the tantly a pirate. Gus is also a member wanted to make our industry better. piercing industry? of a very exclusive club that many people don’t even know exists; he BPA: What are a few of your favorite Gus: Allen Falkner, Pat Pruitt, and has attended all 20 Conferences Conference memories? Steve Joyner just to name a few. (this year will be 21) that the APP Gus: There are too many to list, but BPA: If you could pass on one piece has held. A larger than life person- if I had to narrow it down, it would of advice, what would it be? ality, yet, humble beyond measure. be the first few Conferences in ‘96- Gus: Save it while you can; some day Some just know him as Gus. Oth- ’98, the chance to meet so many like- you may not be making it like you ers know him as Funky Gus. Some, minded people for the first time, it is did. only know him as Smee. A few of unforgettable. us still remember he was the one BPA: Puppies or kittens? BPA: When did you start volunteer- that pierced Britney Spears’s navel ing at Conference and how did that Gus: Kittens. back in 2000. So without further affect your viewpoint on the experi- ado…. We hope you enjoyed this quick in- ence? sight into one of the friendliest faces at BPA: How long have you been around Gus: 2003 was my first year volun- Conference, Gus Diamond. Ask him piercing? What is your history? teering. I feel everyone should do it to share a great story from Confer- Gus: The first non-ear piercing [was] at least one year. ences past when you see him in July; in ‘89; I got my nipple pierced while he has lots. We hope you look forward BPA: Where do you see Conference in Navy Deep Sea Dive school (be- to our future interviews in The Point. in another 20 years? cause divers pierced their nipples If there is someone specific you would and “dicks”). When I started piercing Gus: In Las Vegas like to see us interview please email us at [email protected].

12 THE POINT ISSUE 75 13 PREPARING

YOUR STUDIO Vegas is not the best environment for replying to FOR CONFERENCE clients in a timely fashion.

JULIE TAYLOR & APRIL THOMAS Outreach Committee

f you or will miss you when you’re gone, they know you If most of your staff is going to Conference o t h e r will return full of inspiration and knowledge, it could be a time to close the studio and piercers and in turn they will even support you be- give your tattoo artists a week off. in your ing gone. APP Member Brian Fowler, owner/ studioI are go- piercer of Brand X Piercing, says he lets peo- ing to be at ple know that he will be away for months in Conference for a week, it is best to take stock of advance online as well as when they come in how this will affect your studio as soon as pos- to get pierced. He says that those who stop by sible. The sooner you do this the sooner you put when he is away “receive a fancy coupon to en- into place a plan for while you are away. tice them to come back.” There are a variety of approaches to determin- If you regularly answer your studio’s emails ing what will work best in each studio. Com- or other messages, have someone else take municating with your entire team and making this task over, even if they have to refer some a plan in advance can reduce your anxiety about questions and troubleshooting to you. Vegas what is happening in your studio while you’re is not the best environment for replying to enjoying your time at Conference. clients in a timely fashion. Pat Pierce, owner/ If most of your staff is going to Conference it piercer at Mauve, says he creates an email out- could be a time to close the studio and give your of-office message which “responds to anybody tattoo artists a week off. If your entire staff is that emails me, stating that I am away with the away, you might consider hiring someone who dates that I am gone, what I am away for, when can answer basic questions and book appoint- I will return, and that the reception staff are ments for you. available.” Pat will also try to look through his It could also be a time to have a guest piercer messages as time permits so that he is able to come into assist your clients while you’re away. respond to any urgent client concerns. If you are not the studio owner, offering to fill An invaluable way to ensure that your clien- the spot with another piercer could be greatly tele appreciate your absence, is to promote the appreciated. APP Member Woodstock Bader, jewelry you will be returning with. Take spe- owner/piercer of Crow’s Nest Tattoo, says, cial orders for any vendors you only shop with “quite simply, we find a piercer we trust to live while at Conference. Once you return with in our house and [work] at the shop.” Wood- your goodies, plan to do things like organize stock offers this piercer a guaranteed mini- a trunk show and/or update displays to show mum to ensure they will make money while off the year’s new releases and designs. This is a they cover for him. great way to showcase the designs that may be Use your social media and email contacts to unique or new to your studio. There’s nothing let your clients know about Conference. Get like sharing your post-Conference glow with them excited about your trip, so although they your favourite clients!

14 THE POINT ISSUE 75 15 OUR 2016 APP CONFERENCE EXHIBITION! THE SAILOR SID ARCHIVE PRESENTED BY THE APP BODY PIERCING ARCHIVE & THE LEATHER ARCHIVE & MUSEUM

The Leather Archives and Museum will curate the Sailor Sid Archive. LA&M’s archivists/collections librarian, Jakob VanLammeren, will host and give tours of this exhibition. Come check out the fragile history that YOUR contributions helped to save! Besides Sid, the collection includes images of some of our greatest piercing pioneers such as Fakir Musafar, Mr. Sebastian, Jim Ward, Doug Malloy, Ethel Granger, and more! You’ll be amazed to see the sometimes innovative and sometime LEATHER ARCHIVES & MUSEUM ghastly, well-documented piercing procedures! Please visit the Body Piercing LAUNCHES SAILOR SID DILLER Archive in Bronze 4. DIGITAL COLLECTION ONLINE

Tuesday 10:00-6:30 pm View the Digital Collection Wednesday 10:00-6:00 pm Thursday 9:00-5:00 pm When Sailor Sid passed away in 1990, his piercing collection—personal papers and effects related to his piercing career—was entrusted to Jim Ward, founder of the original piercing studio Gauntlet. Ward donated the collection to LA&M in 1997, where it has remained in climate-controlled storage ever since, largely inaccessible due to lack of processing resources. Thanks to a large community response to a 2015 crowdfunding campaign and a generous contribution from the Association of Professional Piercers this amazing collection is now easily accessible to adults around the world.

16 THE POINT ISSUE 75 17 GUEST SPOT ETIQUETTE

FRANKIE PISTONE Self-Employed Piercer Of course, one of the main goals while guest spotting is to always be respectful he opportunity to guest spot is a great and accommodating to your hosts, the cli- way to learn and grow as an industry ents, and other employees at the studio. professional. Spending time behind the scenes in studios away from your own Thome studio allows you to get a first-hand view of how other reputable shops operate day-today, as well as how other artists apply their knowledge and skills. It’s also a great way to be exposed to a broader range of personalities while learning about piercing in varying geo- graphical areas with a differing client base. Of course, one of the main goals while guest spotting is to always be respectful and accommodating to your hosts, the clients, and other employees at the studio. It is important to keep in mind that the routines in the studio you are visiting may be different from what you’re used to; do your best to follow existing policies and procedures. You should make sure that your tools are consistently and correctly processed Also, if you have any stipulations regard- and your room is kept stocked. It is important ing pay rates, or commissions, guarantees, to show up early, focused, fed, and ready for the lodging, tips, special accommodations, travel, day. The way you carry yourself and the work transportation, etc., it’s best to discuss every- ethic you ap- thing pertaining to your guest spot before you ply is an ex- decide to accept the position. Do what you can ... it’s best to discuss everything pertaining tension of to make sure there is no confusion surround- to your guest spot before you decide to ac- who you are ing any of the details for your guest spot. Out- cept the position. as a profes- lining everything in advance is a good idea. sional, so give However, shared written documentation be- every guest tween you and the studio you are visiting will spot your best and appreciate the opportunity help clarify expectations and avoid miscom- you have been given. munications. Being open and flexible with different pierc- For those artists covering for a conference at- ing techniques can be an essential attribute tendee during the week of APP Conference and when guest piercing. Every studio will have Exposition, don’t be sad that you’re missing out; different techniques and some of the tools you think of guest spotting as an equally valuable normally use may not be readily available for learning experience. This exercise in versatility you, so it is important that if there’s an item or can be a very helpful trait to have, it is a great tool you can’t live without, you are prepared by chance to test your ability to adapt to new envi- bringing it with you. ronments, techniques, and people.

18 THE POINT ISSUE 75 19 truly is, and makes it significantly more challenging to A BRIEF DISCUSSION ABOUT CLAMPS NOSTRIL PIERCING TECHNIQUES PART 1: get our x and y axes right. Body piercing clamps evolved from sponge forceps and Clamped Nostril Piercings I mentioned before that the outside of a nostril is rigid, many piercers (myself included) have trouble not referring and unlikely to be distorted. That isn’t true of the inside to them by their “original” names. For the purpose of sepa- of the nostril. The inside of the nostril is soft, delicate rating our modified versions of these sponge forceps, I will tissue. Having anything up the nose can cause your cli- not call our clamps by their sponge forceps names; Don- JEF SAUNDERS ent discomfort. That’s why, when placing a clamp on the nington or Pennington or Foerster. (But I’ll be thinking it!) nostril, I gently place the clamp on the inside first. After As for choosing a clamp style, I prefer the smallest I I have established a comfortable place for the clamp to sit can get my hands on. Mini-oval jawed clamps are great. on the inside of the nostril, I gently apply pressure with Mini-triangular jawed can work as well, although you Editor’s Note: This article is reprinted from an October 29, the other side of the clamp. will want to make sure not to poke your client with the 2014 blog post on Confessions of a Piercing Nerd. VISUAL CUES edge. Unfortunately disposable clamp technology hasn’t fter the Nostril Piercing: Advanced Fundamen- One of the best aspects of using clamps for nostrils is yet achieved very small jawed disposable models, but I tals class (which I had the pleasure of teaching they give us visual cues as to 90 degrees. When we line am confident those are on the way. Disposable models with the incomparable Alicia Cardenas) at the up a needle in a clamp, we can see it line up with the tend to be built on the “tweezer” model instead of the 2014 Association of Professional Piercers Con- handle of the clamp. This lets us know if we are wildly hinged models we know by using metal clamps. I don’t Aference my friend “Tall” Gary Vargas came up to me and off of perpendicular (needle drift because of needle bevel mind either, so long as I feel like I have control over the said, “10 years in the industry. This is my first confer- should still to be accommodated for). pressure I am placing on the nostril. ence. I come to see your class …and you tell me to clamp We can also visualize our X axis by looking for 90 de- SLOTTED CLAMPS? a nostril”. grees from the side of the clamp. Yes, you should be able When I saw slotted piercing clamps introduced, I was Frankly, I understand where Gary is coming from and to do that without the clamp… but the clamp takes the skeptical of their effectiveness. If we are using a clamp to I imagine this sentiment was not rare within the ranks of guess work out. provide support, cutting a big chunk of that support out our more than 200(!) attendees. Clamping nostrils isn’t with well placed piercings that heal well than they are Finally, the clamp provides a visual cue for itself. didn’t make a ton of sense to me. I also didn’t like the edges just abnormal, it’s downright passé. with innovative piercing techniques that impress other What I mean by that, is when you see the visible jaw of on slotted clamps. Over time, my stance against them has The piercing industry has a love/hate relationship piercers. the clamp on the outside of the nose, you can visualize mellowed. Most disposable options are only available slot- with tools in general. I actually run a piercing studio that I have established from my previous entries that (by (in yer noggin) what the jaw on the inside of the nose ted, which meant I had to learn to use them. Now that I disposes of every tool we use, which means I am always and large) we as piercers are attempting to make pierc- looks like. On all but the widest nostrils, you are piercing have experience with them, I’d say my initial concerns were looking for opportunities to safely eliminate tool usage. ings that enter and exit perpendicular to the the nostril. where you are not able to see, so having all of these visual overblown, to an extent. I still prefer non-slotted options, Still, I really like tools. I like things that make my job The most simple and effective way to make this happen cues really adds up. but I feel comfortable with either option being effective. easier. Piercers sometimes forget that tools are not the is by clamping the nostril. This isn’t just because clamps devil. At the end of the day our clients are much happier are exceptionally good at delivering perpendicular piercings, but also because needle receiver tubes and freehand techniques can make it much harder than necessary. To put it another way: clamping can make nostril piercings (nearly) idiot proof. The rigid stiffness of the outside of the nostril means that when you place a clamp on, it is unlikely to distort the tissue (on the visible part of the nose). Since the clamp applies pressure on the inside and outside of the nostril equally, we have a very strong indication of how to pierce perpendicular to the tissue. Try placing a clamp on your own nostril crooked. Not only will you find it nearly impossible to do so, you’ll also see that if you manage to get a clamp on your nose crooked, it hurts. A lot. Your client will let you know if you’ve got the clamp on wrong, I promise. Clamping also eliminates a problem that receiver tubes create. Receiver tubes only support the inside of the nose. What many piercers do is push too hard on the receiver tube, pushing the nostril out of it’s natural position. This distorts our view of of what perpendicular The clamp provides a line to measure against. The clamp allows us to visualize perpendicular easier.

20 THE POINT ISSUE 75 21 PERFORMING THE PIERCING What this means is, when I pierce I first set my needle At this point, I am ready to execute the piercing. on the tissue that I am piercing. Then make sure my bev- There are two schools of thought when it comes to pre- el orientation is correct (and that I am using the cutting paring to pierce. Some piercers “hover” their needle surface of the needle). Once I have that side of the clamp above the dot they are about to pierce through, while set, I can divert all of my attention to the exit side of the others place the needle on the mark and let their cli- piercing. My auto-correcting mechanism will make sure ent get used to the sensation of the needle against their I do not pierce at a strange angle. I will focus on the exit skin. I am in the latter category, and you will notice in and I will hit it, over and over and over again. I suggest my tutorial videos I am not shy about setting the needle practicing this technique a lot on a piece of foam board against the skin for some time before I proceed with or silicone. Once you have established confidence with the piercing. I don’t think there is a right or wrong ap- the auto-correcting mechanism, then you can use it to proach, honestly. It comes down to the comfort level of assist you in piercing your client. the practitioner. I do think the hover method is better If I cannot see inside the nostril (even while wear- for more experienced piercers. ing my trusty headlamp), I make sure I am visualizing Before performing the piercing, you need to make the clamp on the inside of the nose. I know where I sure the needle will not go through the nostril and right want the needle to exit, in reference to the perfect exit into the septum. If you did that, it would not be the end position in the clamp. I concentrate on that spot and of the world; although it probably won’t feel good and pierce smoothly right at the spot. I will always hit it, will result in some unnecessary bleeding. We are in the and you will too. business of keeping clients, after all, so let’s take steps to At that point, it is easy to insert jewelry, clean your prevent doing that. I suggest holding the needle with a client, and proceed with the rest of your day. One more thumb and middle finger about ¼ to 5/16ths of an inch from perfect piercing leaves your studio and the world is a bet- the end of the bevel of the needle, while supporting the ter place for it. Have you wowed piercers on the internet? back of the needle with the index finger. This way, when No. Have you wowed your client? Yes. And that’s what’s your thumb and index finger hit the clamp, the needle important here. has traveled the average length of your jewelry plus the This video is an example of a clamped nostril pierc- length of the bevel, which is enough for the needle to exit ing using a Snaptile disposable clamp. The insertion is the skin but not so much that the needle pokes the sep- performed using sterile needle blanks (19 gauge and 26 tum. Obviously, your client’s nose will determine exactly gauge) from Industrial Strength, LLC. The jewelry is an “ ”* how far you can push without hitting their septum. Hold 18 gauge 5/16" Neometal flatback with a 2.5mm moon- Essential reading… your needle accordingly. stone end. Once the needle bevel has completely come out the Clamped nostrils are not a step backward as a pierc- exit side, then and only then can you change angles and er. Often times, stepping outside of your comfort zone running get the needle out of the nasal cavity. After this, you can (safely) will only improve your usual piercing routine. safely insert the jewelry of your client’s choice. Good piercers routinely challenge themselves with THE AUTO-CORRECTING MECHANISM new techniques or revisiting old ones. Ken Coyote the gauntlet suggests you try a new technique 25 times. After ap- An Intimate History of the Modern Body Piercing Movement by Jim Ward I really can’t go a blog entry without mentioning Fa- plying “the rule of 25”, you should have enough ex- kir Musafar, mostly because these principles I am writ- In this revealing autobiography, Jim Ward, considered by many to be the father of the modern piercing perience to really form an opinion on the technique. industry, tells the engaging and candid story of discovering his own fascination with body piercing, his ing about originated with my training at the Fakir In- When clamping nostrils, the first few tries will seem founding of Gauntlet, the world’s first body piercing studio, and how he transformed a personal fetish and tensives. I’d love to say I came up with most of this, but foreign. The few after that, you’ll start to see how backroom, amateur pursuit into a respected profession and spearheaded a world-wide social phenomenon. I didn’t. Fakir Musafar and Course Administrator Ken Essential reading for everyone with an interest in body piercing; you, your shop staff, and your customers clamping tissue like this provides tremendous tissue Coyote are to thank for most of my understanding of will treasure this book. support and visual cues. After that, well, you will be body piercing. for more information and to order a copy of Running the Gauntlet signed especially for you by the author, able to decide if clamped nostril technique is really for visit runningthegauntlet-book.com. Also available wholesale and retail at safepiercing.org/publications/ In the Fakir Basic class, Fakir introduces the concept you... Or if I am totally crazy. running-the-gauntlet. of the “Auto-Correcting Mechanism”. This is a trick your * I hope you enjoy this first technique installment. In “Essential reading for anyone who wants to brain plays on your hand-eye coordination to make you •• Deluxe,Deluxe, large-format, large-format hardcoverboth hard and soft cover understand how modern body piercing subsequent blog entries I will discuss receiver tube and arrived at the place it currently occupies.” hit what you want to hit. Fakir learned this by doing trick • Over 180 pages freehand techniques. • Over 180 pages James Weber, Former President shooting. You don’t look at your gun, you look at your • More than• More 250 than photos, 250 over photos, half over of them half in of color them! in color! Association of Professional Piercers target. Your brain will auto-correct and help you hit the target (with practice, of course). www.runningthegauntlet-book.com

22 THE POINT ISSUE 75 wHOlESAlE ORDERS NOw AvAIlABlE THROugH THE APP! 23 The Piercing bible The definiTiVe gUide To sAfe body Piercing by Elayne Angel

This one-of-a-kind comprehensive resource covers everything piercers and piercees need to know about the subject. Piercing pioneer and authority Elayne Angel shares her exhaustive knowledge about piercing techniques, jewelry, placements, aftercare, troubleshooting, and more.

ABOuT THE AuTHOR - ELAYnE AnGEL has been a professional piercer for more than 20 years and has performed over 40,000 piercings. She was awarded the President’s Lifetime Achievement Award by the Association of Professional Piercers in 2006 and is a contributing writer for PAIN Magazine. She lives in Mérida, Mexico. Visit www.piercingbible.com for more information.

Available for wholesale or retail purchase through the APP office: 1 (888) 888-1APP or APP website: www. safepiercing.org $20.00 A portion of the proceeds from each sale goes to the APP. PaPerBack

To sell The Piercing Bible in your studio, 6 x 9 Inches place a “retailer order” with the publisher: Photos & IllustratIons email [email protected] 308 Pages or call 800.733.3000, ext. 86384 ISBN: 978-1-58091-193-1 THE STRETCHED EARLOBE PIERCING AS SITE subtleties and complexities of the changing significations AN Since the early 1990s, the phrase ‘body piercing’ has of the stretched earlobe piercing for individuals when become widely known in Western popular culture. This positioned with self-identified social groups, authority ETHNOGRAPHY term encompasses all forms of the mechanical process of figures, and random strangers. perforating the skin’s surface to install jewelry. However, THE AMERICAN PIERCED EARLOBE OF THE among people living in the United States, the earlobe is This research emphasizes the variable of time. Sym- a unique piercing site. An examination of the history of bolic meanings shift with time. To gain an understand- pierced earlobes in the U.S. reveals it as a corporeal site ing of the significance of the stretched earlobe piercing STRETCHED embodied with changing ideas about naturalness, privi- as a symbol for an individual, for an intended audience, lege, ethnicity, gender, sexuality, and class. and for an unintended audience, the symbol and the EARLOBE PIERCING Since the 1990s, there has been a significant increase individual must be considered together within the his- in the stretching of earlobe piercings. The physiology torical context of relevant social norms of ear piercing, AS SITE of an enlarged earlobe piercing resists seasonal fashion status, gender, and sexuality. trends and behavioral normative shifts. Unlike the im- Today, for a vast majority of Americans, females with mediacy of piercing, sustained stretching cannot be im- pierced ears are acceptable. Data vary widely; however, by Paul King pulsive. Stretching requires an enduring commitment of somewhere up to 80% of adult American females have time, care, and often finances. Usually this process takes had their ears pierced (Laumann et al., 2006). Since 1974, years to reach the exceptionally large sizes, those that Inverness’ piercing stud guns have pierced 400 million ACKNOWLEDGMENTS allow for gazing through the earlobe.1 With the larger earlobes (“Customer Service FAQs,” 2012). Inverness is stretched earlobes, to change one’s mind and reverse the The author would like to express appreciation for the guidance just one of several major piercing gun manufacturers. process requires expensive surgery. from Matthew Kennedy, Joshua Craze, Laurence Cohen, Arpita Their statistics provide a sense of the prevalence of ear- Often, social scientists attempt to assign “fixed iden- Roy, and Justin Underhill. He offers his deepest gratitude to the lobe piercing today. tities.” These are inscribed research participants for their generosity of time and trust. However, the “normal” onto individuals within ABSTRACT “I started stretching in 2003–2004. It mirrors like pierced earlobe has been designated social groups subject to cycles of fluc- “Sweet Gauges!” is an ethnography of the stretched earlobe piercing in a way that seeks to sup- when I got my ears pierced when I was 15; it was tuating acceptance. The as a site of investigation. Often, social scientists attempt to assign “fixed port the scientists’ theo- something I saw happening, something I thought was most significant shift of identities.” These are inscribed onto individuals within designated social retical claims. With few attractive, and something I wanted to be a part of.” social norms for pierced groups in a way that seeks to support the scientists’ theoretical claims. exceptions, social science ears in the last 100 years Research of body modification practices often inductively simplifies an research inductively sim- began a few days prior to entire range of corporeal processes into an over-generalized in-group plifies an entire range of corporeal processes into an June 2, 1953. Queen Elizabeth II had her ears pierced to signifier. I wish to elucidate a more comprehensive perspective of the over-generalized, in-group signifier. However, from a wear the heirloom regalia during her coronation. This individual from a more focused site of the body. What are the ideas that SWEET diachronic perspective, individuals with stretched ears highly publicized affair was seminal in changing public stretched earlobes communicate about one’s identity? How successful transition through various and sometimes overlapping opinion (Wruck, 1980, p. 193). In 1957, Life magazine are these transmissions within and outside one’s social groups? Most social roles and social groups. ran an article on the new fad of ear piercing that had importantly, how do intended communications and their correspond- I interviewed 16 people for this paper. In total, I collect- spread to America from the United Kingdom. Prior GAUGES! ing interpretations change over time? This paper explores the subtleties ed approximately 60 pages of transcript, which spanned to this, females with earlobe piercings were negatively and the complexities of the changing significations of stretched earlobe 30 hours of conversation. I talked to friends, colleagues, viewed through the prevailing dominant social norms as piercing for individuals, especially when positioned with self-identified so- and strangers. This sample includes diverse ethnicities low class, sexually promiscuous, non-white, and foreign cial groups, authority figures, and random strangers. It finds that over time from a spectrum of young and old, males, females, and (Wruck, p. 84–90). However, by the 1960s, mainstream individuals with stretched ears transition through various and sometimes over- one self-identified sexually indeterminate individual. magazines such as Time, ABCs of Beauty, Ladies’ Circle, lapping social roles and social groups. In-depth interviews revealed varied and From a more focused site of the body, I wish to elu- Cosmopolitan, and Glamour enthusiastically encouraged complex experiences with unique insights into understandings of selfhood, agen- cidate a more comprehensive perspective of the indi- women and girls to pierce their earlobes (Wruck, p. 192). cy, sexuality, ethnicity, and age, many of which are divergent from categorical vidual by asking several questions: What are the ideas For Becky and Morgan, pierced ears signaled to the tropes of “self-mutilation.” that stretched earlobes communicate about one’s iden- world that they were females. Neither of these two wom- Keywords: body piercing, stretched earlobes, enlarged earlobes, tity? How successful are these transmissions within and en knows each other, although both share a strikingly gauged earlobes, gauges, body modification, modern primitives, outside one’s social groups? Most importantly, how do similar childhood story. At the age of nine (for Becky earlobe piercing, ear piercing, body art. intended communications and their corresponding in- in 1994, and for Morgan in 1983), they experienced re- terpretations change over time? This paper explores the sponses of gender confusion from strangers. They had

1 Download Chart 1 for a categorization of stretched earlobe sizes.

Bryan’s Ear photo24 courtesy of Born This Way Body Arts THE POINT ISSUE 75 25 while wearing biker leather and a what my peers were doing, but it looker’s gaze as outside of the ordi- what you need in your character a self-determined aesthetic beauty single earring (p. 92). During the wasn’t peer pressure. It was a pop- nary.3 Drawing from Roy Baumeis- to be able to step off that bridge, and spirituality through engagement 1960s, the incidence of males with ular mythology that if you got your ter’s and P.L. Callero’s earlier works, to stand in front of people and say with and manipulation of the body. pierced earlobes increased in mar- left ear pierced you’d not be seen the sociologist Lisiunia Romanienko this is who I am… For many, Modern Primitivism is ginalized groups such as homosexu- as a homosexual. My dad had his (2011) distinguishes piercings that Even as a teenager, Brian’s experi- seen as an alternative to dominant als and bikers. However, in actual left ear pierced. My desire to have are exposed and readily available to ence reveals a complex series of “who norms of sacred naturalness and/or numbers, male earlobe piercing re- it done was more a reflection of the public gaze, such as the enlarged I am” explorations. Both private and the intrinsic sinfulness of the body. mained rare. the male kids I was hanging with earlobe, as a “public self-symbolizer.” public self-symbolizers work as part Pitt (2003) notes some academics The initial challenges to the popu- and male celebrities like George The individual with a public self- of a continuous process for testing criticize Modern Primitives as privi- lar culture and the dominant social Michaels and Prince. I had both symbolizing piercing asserts self- ideas of the self and the self’s place leged white Westerners, exoticizing structures which defined the 1960s, ears pierced by like 3 years later; autonomy of his or her body while in society. and even symbolically colonizing the strengthened and spread in the 1970s. it was the early 90s. The right ear simultaneously opening oneself to Brian studied magazines for al- third world. Pitt and others contend: The mainstream media started to was definitely after I moved out unpredictable visual, verbal, and ternatives to non-Western styles and “Rather than establishing believable received short haircuts, preferred to take notice of males with pierced ear- of the house, after turning 18. It sometimes physical responses of ap- significations of body adornment. ‘tribal’ identities and communities, wear pants, and had not yet devel- lobes in the Gay liberation and Punk was a statement for me, part of my proval or disapproval from others. In Prior to the 1970s, public self- sym- the gestures of modern primitivism oped the secondary sexual charac- Rock movements. During the 1960s, coming out process, and certainly contrast, piercings as “private symbolizing piercings that were uncon- call into question the fixity of identity teristics of puberty. Morgan’s gen- East Coast Gays and West Coast from that it was how I expressed bols” are covered by clothing, which ventional in size, in gender, or in as such” (p. 133). der-ambiguous first name added to Gays had opposite in-group signi- my sexuality, because I knew I’d be allows the pierced individual some quantity, were extremely rare. The Late 1993 marks the rise of the strangers’ confusion. Both of their fiers for dominant and passive roles identified as gay. control in selecting who may know “self-made freak” Rasmus Neilson, a significantly enlarged earlobe pierc- mothers decided having the young within sexual relations. Accessories Jody’s story implies a more per- of and when another may gaze at the circus sideshow performer, is one of ing among non-indigenous peoples girls’ ears pierced would clarify for such as bandanas, keys, and earrings sonal definition of peer pressure, piercing (Romanienko, 2011, p. 5). the only known examples in Ameri- of the United States. It transitioned all that their children were not little worn on the left or right could mean which probably is similar to coer- My interview with Brian illustrates can history. From the 1930s through from an individual’s action, as prac- boys. For Morgan, the piercing was a “top” or a “bottom” sexual role cion. However, social norms and role the dichotomy of private versus pub- the 1950s, Rasmus toured extensively ticed by less than a dozen people, to a sweet victory. Morgan had wanted preference depending on locality. By models clearly influence his choices. lic self-symbolizers: with Ringling Brothers, Barnum and a collective behavior, as practiced by to get her ears pierced previously, the mid-1970s, most American Gay When the earlobe piercing is con- I pierced my lobes when I was Bailey circuses, and Ripley’s Believe thousands.4 Blake Perlingieri (2003) but her mom had forbidden it until males agreed that a right ear pierc- textualized with personal experienc- 17 [1991], but they were not my It or Not. His act included swinging and Kristian White teamed together she was in high school. For Morgan’s ing signified you were publicly “out.” es and historical writings, broader first piercings…I’d seen maga- 10-pound hammers from the rings to open Nomad’s in San Francisco. family, the social pressure to have Some in the straight world started understandings begin to take shape. zines of tribal/traditional peoples. through his distended earlobes. His Nomad’s was the first shop to spe- their child accurately and clearly to say: “Left is right, right is wrong.” The sociologist Victoria Pitts (2003) I was pushing my limits and pierc- act was seen by tens of thousands of cialize in enlarging earlobe pierc- signal gender normalcy took prior- By the early 1980s, males started to has recognized that “instead of one ing my genitals and nipples just to people and influenced some of the ity over their values and ideas of age pierce both earlobes. This remained truth of the body or of ontology, have the intense experience. In an earliest pioneers of the modern body appropriateness for this feminine, risky. A single lobe piercing on the there are competing truths that are area like Atlanta, [with] the moral piercing movement. In 1977, the pe- sensuous display. For Becky, the ex- “wrong” side, might be interpreted productions of time, place, space, ge- majority, the Southern Bible belt, riodical Piercing Fans International perience was somewhat traumatic: “I as “Gay,” but having both ears pierced ography, and culture” (p. 28). there is going to be people rebel- Quarterly (PFIQ) disseminated im- screamed and cried; the experience violated widely entrenched gendered EXPANDING HOLES ling against that. I didn’t do my ages of stretched earlobes to a broad- was awful… I didn’t want to do it visual cues. With the growing occur- lobes first because I lived in a er, receptive audience. In one of the and was pushed into it.” rence among high profile music and Stretching is the most common method for the enlargement of the town where I got shit for long hair earliest issues, Fakir Musafar coined For males, historical trends of ac- sport celebrities in the late 1980s and already. I ended up getting more the phrase “Modern Primitive.” Vale’s ceptability and meaning have been through the 1990s, a more general healed channel of scar tissue or fis- tula known as a “piercing.” Stretch- shit for having my hair long than and Juno’s book RE/Search Modern markedly different. Dr. Samuel acceptance gradually built for both or pierced ears. I pierced my ears Primitives (1989) coalesced a loose Steward(1990), author and profes- either male lobes being pierced. Jody ing is a gradual process. Depending on the method, the tissue’s condi- after I felt I had already under- network of individuals exploring sor-turned-tattooist, reports of only tells of his experience: gone some rites of passage. Before identity, spirituality, art, and sexual- thugs and sailors with pierced ears, tion, and the individual’s preference, It was my 15th birthday; I had stretching up one size in the estab- I pierced my ears, I wasn’t ready ity through their bodies, into a bona as well the subsection of homosexual my left ear pierced, in the mall at to talk about it publicly. Piercing fide movement. Musafar and other men who fetishized and emulated lished category can take seconds or Spenser’s gifts, with a gun. It was a days.2 Allowing for the ear piercing was attractive in a sensual, not Modern Primitives describe their these hyper-masculine males. Fol- gold stud in my left ear. This was necessarily sexual way, and [in] practices as reverent of other cultures lowing the 1953 release of The Wild to heal and produce more skin cells the mid to late 80s [1988]. At that generally takes several months. It can a self-reliance [way], in terms of and as an integrative narrative for One, starring Marlon Brando, Stew- time, it was very important that I ard marks a noticeable increase in take many months, or even years, to got my ear pierced because it was get to a size that registers with an on- 3 The objective is to apply pressure to the cells of the walls of the scar tissue. Under the proper amount of such stress, the tissue does not tear, but homosexual men requesting tattoos rather generates more cells. An analogous process occurs with weight gain or pregnancy. 2 Download Chart 1 for an example of the established size categories. 4 In this case, significantly enlarged earlobe piercing means greater than 3/4”.

26 THE POINT ISSUE 75 27 have been exposed to enlarged ear- Over the years I was stretching, and forth in front of the septum, Danny, earlobe piercing and the sub- the psychiatrist Armando Favazza lobe piercings by celebrities such I would ask myself, “Who am I, symbolizing the Caddo’s pierced sequent stretching may demonstrate (2011) reserves the label of “self mu- as Travie McCoy, Davey Havoc, What am I? What do I want to septum and thus a sign for the en- adaptive behaviors of psychological tilation” for “self-injury involving a Lil Wayne, Brandon Boyd, Adam do with my life?” Looking in the tire tribe. At the annual powwow, healing and self-esteem building. major, significant body part such as Lambert, and Chester Bennington, mirror, after 5/8 inch, I saw myself the elders would say, “Hey, you look By 15 years old, Christian’s earlobe enucleation of an eye or limb ampu- films such as Apocalypto, and chain as a person with stretched ears like an old timer.” I started stretch- piercings were stretched to ½”. He tation” (p. 71). Naming matters; the stores such as Hot Topic, which sells and I’m continuing as a person ing because I liked the look of the discusses his exuberant process of opinions of the general public and stretched earlobe jewelry and sup- with stretched ears… my overall jewelry. And today it’s the same. The exploring meditative traditions and of the policy makers are influenced plies to the youth masses. In March journey will end at the person I bigger jewelry is more decorative the interconnectivity of the mind- through taxonomic associations par- of 2013, a YouTube search yielded really am. and detailed with better designs. The body relationship: ticularly when asserted by persons in over 1200 instructional videos of Examination of Becky’s state- meaning of my stretched ears hasn’t I developed an interest in the Ti- positions of authority and expertise. “How to Stretch Your Ear Piercing.” ments reveals an alignment with evolved into anything, just like any betan culture, emotionally and re- When we resist the urge to reduce As in the beginning, the professional Wicklund and Gollwitzer’s (1982) other ear piercings, maybe that’s be- ligiously. I honestly think then is complex behaviors and associations body piercer displaying the latest symbolic self-completion theory. cause I’ve had my ears pierced my when everything became more sen- into discreet categories, we avoid developments in jewelry styles and Romanienko’s (2011) asserts that whole life. timental and serious. I was a freakin’ the construction of artificially fixed demonstrating the anatomical pos- in symbolic self-completion theory, Weston adeptly reconciles his hippie. I was practicing and learning identities and, in this case, patholo- sibilities of sizes is still the best ad- “individuals strive emphatically to- identification with the past tradi- about different religions; spiritual- gized behaviors. vertisement for stretched ears. Jody ward their identity goals, which of- tions of his people while enjoying the ity became a huge influence. At 17, Thaoe’s family history shares the from San Francisco shares: “I started ten requires the use of symbols to current aesthetics of non-traditional it became an obsession overall to see ongoing tensions between in- group stretching in 2003-2004. It mirrors most comprehensively construct the sizes and jewelry designs. Weston what the human body could willing- beliefs and the normative social poli- like when I got my ears pierced when goes on to share a proud memory of ly withstand, you know, how the Ti- cies set by dominant institutions: ings. They fostered relationships intended self one aspires to present” I was 15; it was something I saw hap- his father’s protection of the family’s betan monks would go out into the with local artisans to produce large (pg. 3). The importance and com- My grandfather had approxi- pening, something I thought was at- traditional practices against an insti- snow and embracing physical chal- earrings for a fledgling market. They plexity of how Becky situates herself mately 00ga earlobes. Traditional- tractive, and something I wanted to tutional authority: lenges during meditation. To make a displayed beautiful antique ‘tribal’ in society and of how she is situated ly, stretched ears are a sign of age, be a part of.” When I was in school, they tried long story short, I just stretched the earrings and decorated the shop in by society shapes her symbolic im- status, and wisdom. His father to make me take them out. My dad hell out of them. traditional designs of Borneo. The LOCATING SYMBOL age production. Currently, Becky’s [Thaoe’s paternal great grandfa- went to school, wearing his tur- idyllic ambiance was completed with Some ideas of self can be ex- earlobe sizes are holding at 11/16". ENGAGING OTHERS ther] took out his own earrings quoise studs and won! He told them exotic birds, plants, and reptiles. The pressed quite clearly in non-verbal Weston situates his stretched ear- Whether self-reported or aca- when he worked for the US gov- it was our peoples’ way. Then we, me Modern Primitive aesthetic wasn’t a symbolism. Abigail exemplifies such lobes within his identity as an indig- demically studied, interpretations of ernment, and then put them back and my brother, were cool.” contrived marketing ploy but rather a readily apparent communication, enous ethnic minority even though what is being communicated can be in. My uncle took them out when From a very young age, a female a genuine pursuit of passionate ide- “The bicycles engraved on my ear- the relative size of his lobe piercings highly subjective. For this paper, I am he was the tribal sheriff, then put named “Danny,” realized that ear- als. Kristian and Blake pioneered the plugs represent [that] I agree with puts him outside the current prac- most concerned with self-reported them back in afterwards. Two lobe piercing was an act of asserting practice of scalpeling the earlobe.5 the green movement, sustainability, tices of his group: evaluations of the individual’s public other uncles had stretched lobes. herself and demonstrating agency: Innovations in the enlargement pro- and it’s my main mode of transport.” I was born into Caddo, so it’s just self-symbolizing when considered I remember the first pierced ear- cess and the jewelry selection result- In 2012, most of her San Franciscan how it is. It’s not a chosen commu- with intended as well as unintended lobes I saw on one of my mom’s bik- ed in dramatic increases in the pop- co-habitants could probably deduce nity. I’m just tattooed and pierced; I observers. According to the ideas of er friends. I was about 6 years old. I ulation of enlarged earlobe piercings this message. In contrast, Becky’s ex- didn’t stretch my ears to be part of Pitts (2003) what is at stake for those probably saw them earlier, but this in San Francisco (pp. 59-76). pressions and reflections of identity a group. I’m not “Mod Prim” [Mod- who stretch their ears resides in Al- was the age when I realized they did The high visibility of stretched are more complex to decipher: ern Primitive] or “Bod Mod” [Body berto Melucci’s concept of the “pow- that to themselves. They WANTED earlobes attracted the media and Modification community]. I don’t er of naming” (1996). In her book There was a lot of soul search- it, and I like it and I want it too. I’ve subsequently the local phenomenon want to be associated with that. Mutilating the Body, the academic ing on the journey of stretching been a fatty since birth, and had is- went global. Back in the early 1980s, Stretching was the impetus for my Kim Hewitt defends her choice of my ears, “Who am I? Do I want to sues early on, “you mean you can Genesis Breyer P-Orridge, perfor- aunts to tell me the stories of the naming all forms of body piercing go past the point of no return?” I control what you look like? You can mance artist, musician, and self- de- Caddo’s body art history. The Osage as “self-mutilation” in order to situ- didn’t want to cut myself off from have a say in it?” scribed “cultural engineer,” was the people had a sign language and for ate, compare, and contrast this prac- other options; but stretching my Danny’s awareness of her weight first celebrity to have stretched his the Caddo they would have the bent tice with eating disorders and Non- ears, the commitment helped to difference at such a young age re- earlobe piercing. Most Americans solidify and support my resolve. index finger horizontally move back Suicidal Self Injuries (NSSI), such veals the social mechanisms at work as cutting and head-banging. (She by which the individual internal- 5 does not name acts such as weight- “Scalpelling” enlarges the earlobe piercing instantaneously up many gauge sizes by incision with a knife. Although implementation of the scalpel- izes social pressures to conform to ling method spread among body modification practitioners as a way to reduce stretching time and jewelry cost, it remains legally, medically, and lifting, dieting, or teeth straighten- socially controversial even within modified communities. norms of beauty and self-worth. For ing as “self-mutilation.”) In contrast,

28 THE POINT ISSUE 75 29 awe, “…because they don’t have shit.” the doctors, and my family to re- pressures, career decisions, and aes- of shrinking starts. For many, this ap- and it being an aesthetic decision, Becky’s story discusses the com- move them [his 2" stretched ear- thetic preferences. The topic of ear- pears glacially slow, taking days or as I’ve gotten older, I feel I’ve been plexity of family members’, intended lobes]. I know medical doctors lobe reconstruction entails difficult weeks to “lose a stretch” and to have pigeonholed and disregarded. As observers’, and unintended observ- that are fully sleeved [tattooed] questions of economics, access, and to go down in size. But for others this a woman who is almost 50, I’ve ers’ reactions that correlate to the and could be in the O.R., but I, ethics. Professional body modifiers process starts to happen in hours or disappeared in some ways. So continuum of size: with my ears stretched, couldn’t offer an affordable option for people even in minutes. Over time, innumer- the stretched ears, in some way, I remember ALWAYS getting be? It’s almost like social con- who don’t have health care or money, able variables shift: finances, style pref- counter balance that, if not for compliments until I hit 5/8", com- formity has a dress code. I was or have health care but want a pro- erences, jobs, relationships, respon- anybody else, then for me. I’ve ments like, “I really like your size, told by numerous surgeons that cedure that’s not covered because sibilities, hobbies, and social groups, had a LOT of body modification it’s not too big.” My mom was SO I couldn’t have stretched earlobes it is medically defined as “elective so what choices factor in keeping over the years, and then undone funny, “Oh that’s perfect! That’s in the O.R. I distinctly remember surgery.” Body modifiers charge ap- stretched earlobes? Melody’s long re- a lot over the next years, and this the perfect size, you don’t need to a plastic surgeon had a half hour proximately $400 while surgeons can lationship with her stretched earlobes bout or period of changing things consultation with me about it; he charge $4000 and up. The procedure traces such life changes and her corre- on my body has been very much My great uncle went to a US gov- go ANY bigger!” [Laughter] Now today, “Are your ears BIGGER?” was even from Africa! I think Ke- supplements the income for body sponding choices to stretch or not: about grounding and solidifying ernment boarding school and nya? He was calm and even-toned modifiers who are generally at the my own identity… my ears seem couldn’t speak the native language or “Why are you going bigger?” [In 1990] When I got to 4 Dad never was a fan, but they’re but very offensive. At 23, I had lower end of middle-class earnings. gauge, I stopped because I didn’t to be a way, to make a statement and didn’t have stretched earlobes. my ears reconstructed by a plas- So far my research suggests that about who I am while at the same My other great uncle, the other supportive of me, of course they think I could go any bigger and wish I’d been a doctor. [Laughter] tic surgeon in Pasadena. I cried procedural outcomes are usually have it look right…. At that time, time balancing the confines of one’s brother, went to boarding in the car after the operation. A better when performed by the body how I need to look as a profes- school too, but had an illness, Up until 5/8", I’d get compliments people were JUST starting to do from the general public, from ev- piece of me was gone, that’s how modifiers than by plastic surgeons. crazy body modifications; some sional, to be taken seriously and and went deaf. My deaf uncle got it felt. It’s weird how you mourn These better outcomes correlate with treated respectfully. pierced after boarding school and eryone, but past that, only from looked awesome while others people in the industry, or compli- over that [he pulls his reconstruct- elite body modifiers that are highly seemed ugly and deforming. As My lifestyle has been punk rock, engaged in other rituals. The fam- ed ear] but I paid someone to cut networked, specialized, and experi- ily believes this was because since ments just about the jewelry or a piercer, I was really aware that radical lesbian, SM, Mod Prim, radi- the dedication [to stretching], but off a piece of that [he points to his enced with this particular procedure. some people were modifying cally political and Queer; it’s been a he was deaf he couldn’t hear the adominoplasty]…. Everyone was But what about the ethics of per- school’s teachings. not as often and not about how their bodies for aesthetics and LOT of different things that [were] beautiful my ears were. very shocked after the operation, forming what could be considered others were modifying without far, FAR outside the norm and to a Thaoe receives positive and negative some even mentioned they liked “plastic surgery” outside the legally that regard. I was 4 gauge for great extent I don’t practice that any- responses from unintended observers. Becky’s experience reflects a dis- the old me, even to this day. Most sanctioned medical field? What of tinct size at which she noticed a years and years. I stopped being more but it’s still a part of me an in- He shares a memorable interaction of my interactions are with people the ethical consequences of my in- a piercer and got another career tegral part of that. that asserts his ideas of class, ethnicity, change in observers’ reactions. How- without stretched ears. vestigating this activity? Bringing ever, descriptions such as “large,” entirely. Going into a more pro- It’s almost as if age trumps every- sovereignty, and authenticity: There is little doubt that the sur- an apparently adaptive system of fessional, straight job, I wanted thing else. “small,” “noticeable,” or “too big,” are underground services under scru- “I was with a friend on the sub- all relative to an observer’s exposure geons were doing what they thought to maintain my individuality in For Thaoe, the custom of stretched way and a yuppie lady said, ‘Oh was best for Christian. Christian’s tiny could have far-reaching reper- a way. It’s funny, at work, I see earlobes sustains his connection to his and knowledge of stretched ears, cussions for practitioners trying to I’ve been to Africa where people aesthetic preference, and relation- medical condition may be incom- myself edgy as compared with grandfather, to his identity as Native actually do that.’ I told her, ‘You’re prehensible to these surgeons who make a living, for clients trying to my colleagues and clients. And American and to his reservation. His ship to the individual with stretched access affordable alternatives, and standing on my ancestors’ land earlobes. exclusively construct normative ide- they see me as edgy, because of traditions teach him the importance and WE did this too.’” als of Western beauty. Therefore his for my professional and personal re- my ears… even though I tone it of an evolving relationship one should After stretching too fast, Christian lationships. As a single young adult living in offers a cautionary tale of physical desires to keep his stretched earlobes down. Even though at the same have with enlarged earlobe piercings: CONSIDERING CHANGE San Francisco, Thaoe’s intersecting and emotional harm: were dismissed with encumbered time from 1990 to 2012, body communities are complex. He has a medical categorizations such as “self- To form more durable understand- modification has become com- I had some complications… inflicted, cosmetic, and elective.” ings of human behaviors, this research monplace, and now I’m TOTAL- Spanish last name and self- identi- People were doing lobe repairs, ties as a tattooist, artist, and musi- Christian’s case appears indicative must consider the effects of time. Hu- LY tame compared to some peo- but it just wasn’t an option. I went of a more general problem, in which mans change. The impulse and the act ple. I get questions like… “Didn’t cian. Those who don’t know his story to two different surgeons; a Fort may never consider the richness and doctors confuse their morality for of piercing the earlobe can transpire that hurt?” It hasn’t gone away, Collins’ doctor said, “No” to fix- beneficence and override a patient’s in moments. In fact, most people can it’s such a funny question. I un- uniqueness of his belief associations ing them, so I flew back home to with his stretched earlobes. Thaoe autonomy. As more people stretch leave the jewelry out for months or derstand the question isn’t really LA, and that surgeon also said, their earlobes, more people will even years at a time and the hole will “does that hurt,” but rather, “even recognizes that living and working “No.” My career goal at the time in the city affords him greater access seek earlobe reconstructions result- remain open, without consideration though it does hurt, why did you was to become a medical doc- ing from physical problems such as or action. But the physiology of the subject yourself to that pain? Help to jewelry choice. The old people still tor and at the time I felt a little living on the reservation will react in structural tears, infections, and scars stretched earlobe is different. The mo- me to understand.” In addition to bit pressured, by my career goal, or personal choices such as social ment jewelry is removed, the process maintaining my individual style

30 THE POINT ISSUE 75 31 Stretching is a time thing; when plugs fall out you REFERENCES Steiner, C.B. (1990). Body Personal and Body Politic. go up. I’m guessing I was 8 gauge by junior high. The Burton, B.W. (2001). Culture and the Human Body: An Adornment and Leadership in Cross Cultural Perspec- stretching is not forced; it happens with time. It’s nat- Anthropological Perspective. Long Grove: Waveland tive. Anthropos, Bd. 85, H. 4/6, pp. 431-445. Retrieved ural. There is no stopping stretching until you die, un- Press, Inc. from http://www.jstor.org/stable/40463569. Accessed: less they stay at a certain size. You should never push Customer Service FAQs. Inverness Safe Ear Piercing. Re- 08/09/2012 11:44 it; they’re the size they’re supposed to be. If there is a trieved from: http://www.invernesscorp.com/custom- Steward, S. M. (1990). Bad Boys and Tough Tattoos: A problem, then maybe you need to go down in size, erService/index.asp#how_ many. Accessed: 09/29/2012. Social History of the Tattoo with Gangs, Sailors, and think about what’s going on in your life, and reflect Favazza, A. (2011). Bodies Under Siege: Self-Mutilation, Street-Corner Punks, 1950-1965.New York: Har- on your mental state. It’s time to slow down, time to Nonsuicidal Self- Injury, and Body Modification in Cul- rington Park Press. think and reflect. ture and Psychiatry (3rd ed.). Baltimore: John Hopkins Thomas, H. & Ahmed, J. (eds.) (2008). Cultural Bodies: CONCLUDING THOUGHTS University Press. Ethnography and Theory. Blackwell Publishing Ltd, This ethnography of people’s self-reported stories un- Halliburton, M. (2002). Rethinking Anthropological Oxford, UK. folds diverse experiences, ethnicities, communities, and Studies of the Body: Manas and Bōdham in Kerala. Vale, V. & Juno, A. (1989). RE/Search #12: Modern Primi- motivations, all of which inform and evolve the choices American Anthropologist, New Series, 104(4), pp. tives. San Francisco: RE/Search Publications. to stretch and to have enlarged earlobe piercings. As a 1123-1134. Retrieved from http://www.jstor.org/sta- Wicklund, R. A., & Gollwizter, P. M. (1982). Symbolic research tool, ethnography allows for depth, dimen- ble/3567101. Accessed: 08/09/2012 11:53 Self-completion. Hillsdale, NJ: Erlbaum. sion, variation, and personalization within a research Hayes, M.O., & Harness, G.A. (2001). Body Piercing as Wruck, C. (1980). Jewels for Their Ears: Why Earrings cohort that shares commonalities, such as persons with a Risk Factor for Viral Hepatitis: An Integrative Re- Are as Popular Today as They Were Ten Thousand Years stretched earlobe piercings. search Review. American Journal of Infection Control. Ago. New York: Vantage Press, Inc. From the stretched earlobe as a locus of study, in- University of New Hampshire, School of Health and terviewees revealed varied and complex experiences. Human Services.doi: 10.1067/ mic.2001.114402 Article reprinted with the author’s permission from These unique insights diverge from categorical general- Hewitt, K. (1997). Mutilating the Body: Identity in Blood http://media.wix.com/ugd/1a898c_e2c18ac54e- izations that attempt to aggregate all body modification and Ink. Bowling Green: Bowling Green State Univer- 744150be8a3c71b20332f9.pdf outside the current social norm as “self-mutilation”. sity Popular Press. Inverness Corporation. (n.d.) For example, Weston and Thaoe shared their evolving Lemma, A. (2010). Under the Skin: A Psychoanalytic indigenous understandings of stretched earlobe tradi- Study of Body Modification. New York: Routledge. tions. For Abigail and Jody, the stretched earlobe sig- Melucci, A. (1996). Challenging Codes: Collective Ac- nified a classic sociological understanding of ingroup tion in the Information Age. New York: Cambridge BODY PIERCING SHOPS affiliation. Jody, Becky, and Morgan each presented the University Press. INDEPENDENT CONTRACTORS Moglen, H. & Chen, N. (2006). Bodies—Inside and Out. pierced and stretched earlobe as a demonstration of PROFESSIONAL PROGRAM COVERAGE FOR MINORS selfhood; however, each original ear piercing was initi- In N.N. Chen, & H. Moglen (eds.), Bodies in the Mak- INSURANCE BROKERAGE GUEST ARTIST PIERCERS ated by external pressures of gender inscription. Brian ing: Transgressions and Transformations (pp. ix-xvi). reflected back on a younger self with sophisticated un- Santa Cruz: New Pacific Press. ADVANCED PIERCING Perlingieri, B.A. (2003). A Brief History of the Evolution TATTOO SHOPS derstandings of his personal explorations of earlobe INSURING THE BODY PIERCING modification within his particular social landscape of of Body Adornment in Western Culture: Ancient Ori- INDUSTRY FOR TATTOO REMOVAL place and time. Danny’s earlobe piercing and the sub- gins and Today. Eugene: Tribalife Publications. COMMUNICABLE DISEASE Pitts, V. (2003). In the Flesh: The Cultural Politics of Body sequent stretching appeared to be a successful ongoing SEXUAL ABUSE reinforcement of psychological healing and self-esteem Modification. New York: Palgrave Macmillan. APPRENTICESHIP building. Christian revealed his emotional pain from Pitts, V. (2006).The Body, Beauty, and Psychosocial Pow- being pressured into an unwanted surgical removal of er. In N.N. Chen, & H. Moglen (eds.), Bodies in the CONVENTIONS stretched earlobe tissue presented as imperative to con- Making: Transgressions and Transformations (pp. 28- MOBILE UNITS form to a prevalent moral bias within the medical field. 46). Santa Cruz: New Pacific Press. PROFESSIONAL LIABILITY Romanienko, L. A. (2011). Body Piercing and Identi- Melody eloquently examined her shifting relationship 415.475.4300 PROPERTY COVERAGE to her stretched earlobes, transformed by her growing ty Construction: A Comparative Perspective – New TATTOO-INS.COM LANDLORD ENDORSEMENT age and increasing socioeconomic status. York, New Orleans, Wroclaw. New York: Palgrave Seeking out alternative narratives to a chosen hypoth- Macmillan. SIGNS / GLASS / FLASH esis may be a more holistic approach to studying difficult Ruben, A. (1988). Marks of Civilization. Los Angeles: CYBER PROTECTION social systems and psychological behaviors. Including Museum of Cultural History, University of California, Novato, California 94949 WORKERS COMP Los Angeles. CA LIC #OB17238 / CA LIC #OH27235 the richness of diversity may give balance to otherwise TATTOO & BODY PIERCING reductive and essentialized research conclusions. Shilling, C. (2003). The Body and Social Theory, (2nd SUPPLY DISTRIBUTOR ed.). London: SAGE.

32 THE POINT ISSUE 75 33 person to be extremely modified while others study will not remedy all our struggles, it is my BODY within the community approach their body art hope that this research will serve as a founda- more conservatively. tion for future research relating to the modified MODIFICATION For those who aren’t aware, there is a great community. I hope that many of those attending deal of misinformation in the world of Psychol- Conference will consider participating in this ogy regarding body art practices. Much of this study, if not for me, but for the betterment of the SURVEY misinformation is due to the use of research community and it’s future. sampling methods that do not accurately repre- The moral of this story is that you can be any- Stephanie Hutter-Thomas, PhDc sent the overall community. For example, how thing you want, regardless of your appearance. can anyone determine motivations to pursue In my case, it was the love and support of my radical forms of body art by interviewing 10 family and close friends that got me through white American females, ages 20-25, on a mid- the rough spots and believed in me even when I western college campus? The simple answer struggled to believe in myself. There are always is that you can’t; yet, many psychologists have opportunities to make a difference; it is sim- done exactly that, largely due to a lack of under- ply a matter of deciding where you fit into the standing. This issue has led to generalizations mix. Find your gifts, then find ways to incorpo- about our community that may or may not be rate those gifts into your pursuits and never let true, many of which are damaging within cer- your body art be a problem or an excuse. We t is no secret that the subject of psychol- one enjoys. I was certain that I would be gawked tain social constructs. This in combination with often allow others to stifle our dreams based on ogy has been my passion for a very long at, scoffed at, judged, and possibly even shunned the ongoing fascination the psychology profes- choices we made when we were young without time, particularly the field of behavioral by my academic peers, but to my surprise, none sion has with pathological diagnosis has led to ever actually putting ourselves out there to see research. It is this passion for understand- of these things happened. In fact, I will be bold negative categorizations of anyone wishing to what actually happens. If you had asked me 10 ingI human nature that ultimately drove me to and go as far as saying that I receive more ac- alter their appearance outside of social norms. years ago, I would have told you that the idea of embark on what has become a six-year journey ceptance from the academic community at this Since all respectable research is born out of enrolling in graduate school was insane because in higher education. level than in any other peer group I have been need, I was essentially tasked with finding the I truly thought those days were over. At the very The journey began in 2010, when I enrolled a part of. It was as if for the first time in my life gaps in the literature, choosing one such gap to least, I would have said “not for me,” laughed as a graduate student through Capella Univer- I was being taken at face value, judged only by pursue and determining a way to fill this gap sci- and walked away shaking my head. I decided to sity, almost a decade after completing my un- my merits with my physical appearance having entifically. Aside from the obvious issues relat- become more moderately modified during my dergraduate degree in Accounting. In 2013, I nothing to do with any of it beyond the topic of ing to sampling in prior studies, peer reviewed late 20’s and early 30’s so at that time I saw my completed my masters degree in Industrial Or- my study. How refreshing! articles repeatedly indicate the need for a means commitment to body art as closing the door to ganizational Psychology while running our stu- After years of completing course work, resi- to measure quantity of body modifications. This more mainstream pursuits. Later it became clear dio, piercing full-time, and volunteering to work dency requirements, and taking on a part-time measurement tool must be simplistic while also to me that the only person stopping me from in state legislation. These were crazy times to say job as a teaching assistant in Research Statistics, measuring body art in a way that is meaning- pursuing everything I wanted in life was ME, the least, however in the end, I could not have I am finally in the dissertation phase of my ter- ful with corresponding language to describe it not my body art. Today, I can’t imagine being asked for a better experience. minal degree. The dissertation process requires consistently. This gap in research resulted in my anything other than a scholar, a scientist, a pro- Immediately after graduation I enrolled in the a study that is inferential by design as opposed development of the first instrument for quan- fessor, a writer, and a psychological researcher. doctoral program for General Psychology. My to descriptive, meaning that the study must tifying body modification known as the Un- My dissertation mentor once said to me, “you thoughts at the time were that I had already in- compare variables in order to demonstrate re- orthodox Elective Body Modification (UEBM) are not a modified person who happens to be corporated study habits into my daily lifestyle so search skill at the doctoral level. Dimensional Assessment. The approach used getting a PhD; you are a research scientist who there was no point in stopping. After all, Capella My study topic is one that I selected very in this instrument is definitely simplistic by happens to be modified.” I can live with that. was a great school and I had enough student early, but spent a great deal of time revising in design, using formulas already seen in science Stephanie Hutter-Thomas, PhDc loan debt to desensitize me from the financial order to meet academic requirements while also and medicine, yet promises to change the way (a.k.a - Stephie Von Hütter Thomas) fears, so what was stopping me? This move was attempting to create a study worthwhile for the psychologist study the body modification com- Co-Owner/Piercer/APP Member something I viewed as a “no-brainer” because it body modification community. The purpose of munity. This instrument will be used for the —Skinethics Body Art Studio promised to afford me the opportunity to offer a the study is to compare a series of variables using first time in my data collection process to be Founder/Co-Owner valuable contribution to the body modification a multiple regression statistical analysis in order conducted at this year’s annual APP Conference —Bodies of Knowledge community while also nurturing my own per- to report any noted patterns or relationships be- in Vegas. The results for each individual will be Girard, Ohio sonal growth and future security. tween age, gender, personality type, impact of compared to their determined personality type www.skinethicsbodyart.com I must admit that I was utterly terrified to en- life experiences, perceived spirituality, and how along with the other psychosocial constructs www.bodiesofknowledge.net ter the world of doctoral education as a modi- extremely modified an individual chooses to be. previously mentioned to determine if there are [email protected] fied person; rejection isn’t something that any- In other words, I am exploring what drives one any relationships or visible patterns. While this

34 THE POINT ISSUE 75 35 DONATE TO SCIENCE FINE BODY JEWELRY AND HELP A FELLOW PIERCER, STUDIO OWNER, & DOCTORAL CANDIDATE Welcome to the new Leroi.com

You are invited to be part of a research study being conducted by Capella University PhD candidate, Stephanie Hutter-Thomas (Stephie Von Hütter Thomas). In order to fulfill her PhD requirements, Steph- anie must complete a doctoral dissertation that presents new information for the scientific knowledge SHOP base. As a result, Stephanie has chosen to invest her time in research that will serve to promote a deeper understanding of the modified community. Some of the details regarding the study are listed here in or- - Wholesale customers only der to help you determine if participation is right foryou. ONLINE - Fully secure e-commerce site STUDY TITLE: - Products added daily Sociocultural Evolution: An examination of personality type, life events, age, gender and perceived spirituality and the influence these variables have on self-reported levels of body modification. 24/7 - Shop 24/7 WHAT IS THIS STUDY ABOUT? The purpose of this study is to determine if there is a relationship between personality and impact of life experiences, spirituality/religiosity, age, gender, and how modified one chooses to become. The study will include only APP 2016 conference attendees in the interest of limiting participants to only those over GAUGES age 18 and those who view body modification as their lifestyle choice. You do not need to be an APP member to participate, however, you must be attending conference this year. 16g The goal is to secure 150 participants to take part in this study in order to use the desired statistical analysis. If you decide to be in this study, your participation will last about two hours. The questionnaires LENGTH/DIAMETER you will be completing will be administered in a meeting room at the APP 2016 conference in Las Vegas. 1/4” Information regarding rooms and time slots will be announced. WHAT WILL I HAVE TO DO AND DOES IT COST ANYTHING? MATERIALS If you decide to be a part of this study, all you need to do is watch for this year’s conference course 14K Yellow Gold schedule, choose a timeslot that works best for your schedule, and make it to the indicated room number. Participants will not be paid, however all participants in this study will receive a gift for giving their time freely to this endeavor. It is important to note that Stephanie is NOT receiving any funding from the ADD TO CART University, the Association of Professional Piercers, or any other third party for conducting this study. All costs relating to the purchase of copywrited instruments/questionnaires, promo materials and gifts to participants are paid solely by Stephanie. This study will help to expand the information currently published by offering data compiled from those who see body modification as a part of their lifestyle, not a trend. By donating your time to this project you will not only help another piercer complete a major academic goal, you will also be helping to improve the overall understanding of the modified community. for all APP Researcher: Stephanie Hutter-Thomas 10% OFF members Email Address: [email protected] or [email protected] Telephone Number: (studio) 330-545-8317 (mobile) 330-509-8956 Research Supervisor: Dr. Herb Hauser Email Address: [email protected] www.Leroi.com Phone: 1.888.298.7766 Fax: 315.402.2136

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