Abrasion Corrosion Hydraulic Action Longshore Drift Deposition

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

Abrasion Corrosion Hydraulic Action Longshore Drift Deposition A process of erosion whereby cliff faces are Abrasion worn away by particles carried by waves. When salts and other acids in seawater slowly dissolve Corrosion a cliff (also known as solution) Process by which the sheer Hydraulic force of waves loosens Action rocks and cliffs by forcing open cracks. A coastal transport process Longshore by which sand and pebbles Drift are moved along a beach by waves. The dropping of material carried by the waves Deposition (usually occurs due to a drop in wave energy – largest material is deposited first) A curving indentation in the Bay coastline A steep rock face next to Cliff the sea. An area of high land consisting of resistant rock, Headland jutting out into the sea. Arch An opening through a headland cut by waves A hollow in the side of a Cave cliff formed by erosion A steep-sided rock pillar Stack surrounded by water Stump An eroded stack only visible at low tide. An indentation at the foot of Wave-cut a cliff caused by wave notch erosion A gently sloping rocky Wave-cut platform at the base of a platform cliff. A deposit of sand that has Bar grown across a bay or estuary. l An accumulation of sand Beach and shingle between the high and low tide mark. A ridge of sand and/or pebbles projecting away Spit from a bend in the coast into the sea and built up by longshore drift. Tombolo A spit that has grown out to connect an island to the mainland The return of water to the Backwash sea after the wave has broken on the beach. Constructive These waves build up beaches (stronger swash) Waves High energy waves that Destructive remove material from a beach (strong backwash) Waves The distance over which Fetch the wind has blown to form a wave Swash Water moving up the beach An artificial wooden / steel Groynes structure that projects out in to the sea to reduce longshore drift Steel mesh cages filled with rocks to absorb and Gabions dissipate wave energy. Open structure consisting of wooden planks, absorbing wave energy but Revetments allowing water and sediment to build up beyond it. A wall with a curved lip to Recurved Sea deflect the force of the wave and direct sediment Wall away from the sea front. Large boulders on the Rip Rap beach which absorb wave energy (also known as Rock Armour) .
Recommended publications
  • A Field Experiment on a Nourished Beach
    CHAPTER 157 A Field Experiment on a Nourished Beach A.J. Fernandez* G. Gomez Pina * G. Cuena* J.L. Ramirez* Abstract The performance of a beach nourishment at" Playa de Castilla" (Huel- va, Spain) is evaluated by means of accurate beach profile surveys, vi- sual breaking wave information, buoy-measured wave data and sediment samples. The shoreline recession at the nourished beach due to "profile equilibration" and "spreading out" losses is discussed. The modified equi- librium profile curve proposed by Larson (1991) is shown to accurately describe the profiles with a grain size varying across-shore. The "spread- ing out" losses measured at " Playa de Castilla" are found to be less than predicted by spreading out formulations. The utilization of borrowed material substantially coarser than the native material is suggested as an explanation. 1 INTRODUCTION Fernandez et al. (1990) presented a case study of a sand bypass project at "Playa de Castilla" (Huelva, Spain) and the corresponding monitoring project, that was going to be undertaken. The Beach Nourishment Monitoring Project at the "Playa de Castilla" was begun over two years ago. The project is being *Direcci6n General de Costas. M.O.P.T, Madrid (Spain) 2043 2044 COASTAL ENGINEERING 1992 carried out to evaluate the performance of a beach fill and to establish effective strategies of coastal management and represents one of the most comprehensive monitoring projects that has been undertaken in Spain. This paper summa- rizes and discusses the data set for wave climate, beach profiles and sediment samples. 2 STUDY SITE & MONITORING PROGRAM Playa de Castilla, Fig. 1, is a sandy beach located on the South-West coast of Spain between the Guadiana and Gualdalquivir rivers.
    [Show full text]
  • USER MANUAL SWASH Version 7.01
    SWASH USER MANUAL SWASH version 7.01 SWASH USER MANUAL by : TheSWASHteam mail address : Delft University of Technology Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences Environmental Fluid Mechanics Section P.O. Box 5048 2600 GA Delft The Netherlands website : http://www.tudelft.nl/swash Copyright (c) 2010-2020 Delft University of Technology. Permission is granted to copy, distribute and/or modify this document under the terms of the GNU Free Documentation License, Version 1.2 or any later version published by the Free Software Foundation; with no Invariant Sections, no Front-Cover Texts, and no Back- Cover Texts. A copy of the license is available at http://www.gnu.org/licenses/fdl.html#TOC1. iv Contents 1 About this manual 1 2 Generaldescriptionandinstructionsforuse 3 2.1 Introduction................................... 3 2.2 Background,featuresandapplications . ...... 3 2.2.1 Objectiveandcontext ......................... 3 2.2.2 Abird’s-eyeviewofSWASH. 4 2.2.3 ModelfeaturesandvalidityofSWASH . 7 2.2.4 Relation to Boussinesq-type wave models . .... 8 2.2.5 Relation to circulation and coastal flow models. ...... 9 2.3 Internal scenarios, shortcomings and coding bugs . ......... 9 2.4 Unitsandcoordinatesystems . 10 2.5 Choiceofgridsandtimewindows . .. 11 2.5.1 Introduction............................... 11 2.5.2 Computationalgridandtimewindow . 12 2.5.3 Inputgrid(s)andtimewindow(s) . 13 2.5.4 Input grid(s) for transport of constituents . ...... 14 2.5.5 Outputgrids .............................. 15 2.6 Boundaryconditions .............................. 16 2.7 Timeanddatenotation ............................ 17 2.8 Troubleshooting................................. 17 3 Input and output files 19 3.1 General ..................................... 19 3.2 Input/outputfacilities . .. 19 3.3 Printfileanderrormessages . .. 20 4 Description of commands 21 4.1 Listofavailablecommands.
    [Show full text]
  • Coastal Landform Processes 29/03/2018 Do Now Copy Below: When Waves Lose Energy Material Is Deposited
    Coastal Landform Processes 29/03/2018 Do Now Copy below: When waves lose energy material is deposited. This typical happens in sheltered areas such as bays, this explains why beaches are found here. Wave refraction is where the energy of the wave is reduced Aim ▪ To understand process acting on the coast that lead to landforms Wave energy converges on the headlands Wave energy is diverged Wave energy converges on the headlands Sediment moves and is deposited http://www.bbc.co.uk/education/cli ps/zsmb4wx Erosion Destructive waves will erode the coastline in four different ways: 1. Hydraulic Power Complete your 2. Corrasion erosion sheet 3. Attrition 4. Corrosion 5. Abrasion Longshore Drift • “Longshore drift is a process by which sediments such as sand or other materials are transported along a beach.” • The general direction of longshore drift around the coasts of the British Isles is controlled by the direction of the dominant wind. http://www.bbc.co.uk/learningzo ne/clips/the-coastline- longshore-drift-and- spits/3086.html Longshore Drift: A bird’s eye view Cliff Beach Sea Longshore Drift: A bird’s eye view Cliff Eroded material Beach from the cliffs is left on the beach Bob the pebble Sea Longshore Drift: A bird’s eye view Cliff Beach Waves The waves from the sea come onto the beach at an angle and pick Bob and other material up and move them up the beach. Sea Longshore Drift: A bird’s eye view Cliff Beach Swash This movement of the waves is called SWASH. The waves come in at an angle due to Sea wind direction Longshore Drift: A bird’s eye view Cliff Beach The waves then move back down the beach in a straight Swash direction due to gravity.
    [Show full text]
  • 3.2.6. Methods for Field Measurement and Remote Sensing of the Swash Zone
    © Author(s) 2014. CC Attribution 4.0 License. ISSN 2047-0371 3.2.6. Methods for field measurement and remote sensing of the swash zone Sebastian J. Pitman1 1 Ocean and Earth Sciences, National Oceanography Centre, University of Southampton ([email protected]) ABSTRACT: Swash action is the dominant process responsible for the cross-shore exchange of sediment between the subaerial and subaqueous zones, with a significant part of the littoral drift also taking place as a result of swash motions. The swash zone is the area of the beach between the inner surfzone and backbeach that is intermittently submerged and exposed by the processes of wave uprush and backwash. Given the dominant role that swash plays in the morphological evolution of a beach, it is important to understand and quantify the main processes. The extent of swash (horizontally and vertically), current velocities and suspended sediment concentrations are all parameters of interest in the study of swash processes. In situ methods of measurements in this energetic zone were instrumental in developing early understanding of swash processes, however, the field has experienced a shift towards remote sensing methods. This article outlines the emergence of high precision technologies such as video imaging and LIDAR (light detection and ranging) for the study of swash processes. Furthermore, the applicability of these methods to large-scale datasets for quantitative analysis is demonstrated. KEYWORDS: run-up, morphodynamics, coastal imaging, video, LIDAR. Introduction al., 2004) and its dominant responses are largely well understood. It is the most The beachface is a highly spatially and energetic zone in terms of bed sediment temporally dynamic zone, predominantly due movement and is characterised by strong and to swash processes such as wave run up.
    [Show full text]
  • Assessing Long-Term Changes in the Beach Width of Reef Islands Based on Temporally Fragmented Remote Sensing Data
    Remote Sens. 2014, 6, 6961-6987; doi:10.3390/rs6086961 OPEN ACCESS remote sensing ISSN 2072-4292 www.mdpi.com/journal/remotesensing Article Assessing Long-Term Changes in the Beach Width of Reef Islands Based on Temporally Fragmented Remote Sensing Data Thomas Mann 1,* and Hildegard Westphal 1,2 1 Leibniz Center for Tropical Marine Ecology, Fahrenheitstrasse 6, D-28359 Bremen, Germany; E-Mail: [email protected] 2 Department of Geosciences, University of Bremen, D-28359 Bremen, Germany * Author to whom correspondence should be addressed; E-Mail: [email protected]; Tel.: +49-421-2380-0132; Fax: +49-421-2380-030. Received: 30 May 2014; in revised form: 7 July 2014 / Accepted: 18 July 2014 / Published: 25 July 2014 Abstract: Atoll islands are subject to a variety of processes that influence their geomorphological development. Analysis of historical shoreline changes using remotely sensed images has become an efficient approach to both quantify past changes and estimate future island response. However, the detection of long-term changes in beach width is challenging mainly for two reasons: first, data availability is limited for many remote Pacific islands. Second, beach environments are highly dynamic and strongly influenced by seasonal or episodic shoreline oscillations. Consequently, remote-sensing studies on beach morphodynamics of atoll islands deal with dynamic features covered by a low sampling frequency. Here we present a study of beach dynamics for nine islands on Takú Atoll, Papua New Guinea, over a seven-decade period. A considerable chronological gap between aerial photographs and satellite images was addressed by applying a new method that reweighted positions of the beach limit by identifying “outlier” shoreline positions.
    [Show full text]
  • Under Pressure Coastal Stack & Stump: Sediment Are Thrown Against Weathering (Freeze- the Cliffs by Waves
    Tides: UP1 –Waves & Tides Constructive Waves: Longshore Drift: Transportation: • These are the rise and fall of the sea level, due • Traction: mainly to the pull of the moon • Strong swash and weak backwash that • Waves approach the beach at an angle due Large boulders and sediments • As the moon travels around the Earth, it push sand and pebbles up the beach to the prevailing wind direction are rolled along the sea bed. attracts the sea and pulls it upwards. The sun • Low waves with longer gaps between the • As the wave breaks, the swash carries They are too heavy to be helps too – but its much further away. So its crests (6-8 per min – low frequency) material up the beach at the same angle pull is not as strong. • Under 1m (oblique angle) as the prevailing wind picked up fully by the waves. • High tide occurs about every 12 and ½ hours, • Known as spilling waves as they ‘spill’ up • The backwash carries material back down with low tides in between. The difference the beach the beach at a right angle (90o) due to • Saltation: between the high and low tide is called the tidal • Gently sloping wave front gravity where small pieces of shingle range • Formed by storms often 100s KMs away • This means that material is moved along the or large sand grains are • Gentle beach beach in a zig zag route bounced along the sea bed. Waves: Destructive Waves: • Suspension: • Are formed by wind that blows over the sea, friction with the surface of water causes • Weak swash and strong backwash pulling small particles such as silts ripples to form and these develop into waves.
    [Show full text]
  • Turbulence in the Swash and Surf Zones: a Review
    Coastal Engineering 45 (2002) 129–147 www.elsevier.com/locate/coastaleng Turbulence in the swash and surf zones: a review Sandro Longo a,*, Marco Petti b,1, Inigo J. Losada c,2 aDepartment of Civil Engineering, University of Parma, Parco Area delle Scienze, 181/A, 43100 Parma, Italy bDipartimento di Georisorse e Territorio, Faculty of Engineering, University of Udine, Via del Cotonificio, 114, 33100 Udine, Italy cOcean and Coastal Research Group, Universidad de Cantabria, E.T.S.I.C.C. y P. Av. de los Castros s/n, 39005 Santander, Spain Abstract This paper reviews mainly conceptual models and experimental work, in the field and in the laboratory, dedicated during the last decades to studying turbulence of breaking waves and bores moving in very shallow water and in the swash zone. The phenomena associated with vorticity and turbulence structures measured are summarised, including the measurement techniques and the laboratory generation of breaking waves or of flow fields sharing several characteristics with breaking waves. The effect of air entrapment during breaking is discussed. The limits of the present knowledge, especially in modelling a two- or three-phase system, with air and sediment entrapped at high turbulence level, and perspectives of future research are discussed. D 2002 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved. Keywords: Swash zone; Surf zone; Breaking waves; Turbulence; Length scales; Coastal hydrodynamics 1. Introduction short and long waves, currents, turbulence and vorti- ces may be present. Therefore, the hydrodynamics to The swash zone is defined as the part of the beach be found in the swash zone is largely determined by between the minimum and maximum water levels the boundary conditions imposed by the beach face during wave runup and rundown.
    [Show full text]
  • Waves and Wind Shape Land
    KEY CONCEPT Waves and wind shape land. BEFORE, you learned NOW, you will learn • Stream systems shape Earth’s • How waves and currents surface shape shorelines •Groundwater creates caverns •How wind shapes land and sinkholes VOCABULARY THINK ABOUT longshore drift p. 587 How did these longshore current p. 587 sandbar p. 588 pillars of rock form? barrier island p. 588 The rock formations in this dune p. 589 photograph stand along the loess p. 590 shoreline near the small town of Port Campbell, Australia. What natural force created these isolated stone pillars? What evidence of this force can you see in the photograph? Waves and currents shape shorelines. NOTE-TAKING STRATEGY The stone pillars, or sea stacks, in the photograph above are a major Remember to organize tourist attraction in Port Campbell National Park. They were formed your notes in a chart or web as you read. by the movement of water. The constant action of waves breaking against the cliffs slowly wore them away, leaving behind pillarlike formations. Waves continue to wear down the pillars and cliffs at the rate of about two centimeters (one inch) a year. In the years to come, the waves will likely wear away the stone pillars completely. The force of waves, powered by wind, can wear away rock and move thousands of tons of sand on beaches. The force of wind itself can change the look of the land. Moving air can pick up sand particles and move them around to build up dunes. Wind can also carry huge amounts of fine sediment thousands of kilometers.
    [Show full text]
  • National List of Beaches 2008
    National List of Beaches September 2008 U.S. Environmental Protection Agency Office of Water 1200 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW Washington DC 20460 EPA-823-R-08-004 Contents Introduction ...................................................................................................................................... 1 States Alabama........................................................................................................................................... 3 Alaska .............................................................................................................................................. 5 California.......................................................................................................................................... 6 Connecticut .................................................................................................................................... 15 Delaware........................................................................................................................................ 17 Florida ............................................................................................................................................ 18 Georgia .......................................................................................................................................... 31 Hawaii ............................................................................................................................................ 33 Illinois ............................................................................................................................................
    [Show full text]
  • Shaping the Beach, One Wave at a Time New Research Is Deciphering How Currents, Waves, and Sands Change Our Shorelines
    http://oceanusmag.whoi.edu/v43n1/raubenheimer.html Shaping the Beach, One Wave at a Time New research is deciphering how currents, waves, and sands change our shorelines By Britt Raubenheimer, Associate Scientist nearshore region—the stretch of sand, for a beach to erode or build up. Applied Ocean Physics & Engineering Dept. rock, and water between the dry land be- Understanding beaches and the adja- Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution hind the beach and the beginning of deep cent nearshore ocean is critical because or years, scientists who study the water far from shore. To comprehend and nearly half of the U.S. population lives Fshoreline have wondered at the appar- predict how shorelines will change from within a day’s drive of a coast. Shoreline ent fickleness of storms, which can dev- day to day and year to year, we have to: recreation is also a significant part of the astate one part of a coastline, yet leave an • decipher how waves evolve; economy of many states. adjacent part untouched. One beach may • determine where currents will form For more than a decade, I have been wash away, with houses tumbling into the and why; working with WHOI Senior Scientist Steve sea, while a nearby beach weathers a storm • learn where sand comes from and Elgar and colleagues across the coun- without a scratch. How can this be? where it goes; try to decipher patterns and processes in The answers lie in the physics of the • understand when conditions are right this environment. Most of our work takes A Mess of Physics Near the Shore Many forces intersect and interact in the surf and swash zones of the coastal ocean, pushing sand and water up, down, and along the coast.
    [Show full text]
  • Effects of Porous Mesh Groynes on Macroinvertebrates of a Sandy Beach, Santa Rosa Island, Florida, U.S.A
    Gulf of Mexico Science Volume 26 Article 4 Number 1 Number 1 2008 Effects of Porous Mesh Groynes on Macroinvertebrates of a Sandy Beach, Santa Rosa Island, Florida, U.S.A. W.J. Keller University of West Florida C.M. Pomory University of West Florida DOI: 10.18785/goms.2601.04 Follow this and additional works at: https://aquila.usm.edu/goms Recommended Citation Keller, W. and C. Pomory. 2008. Effects of Porous Mesh Groynes on Macroinvertebrates of a Sandy Beach, Santa Rosa Island, Florida, U.S.A.. Gulf of Mexico Science 26 (1). Retrieved from https://aquila.usm.edu/goms/vol26/iss1/4 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by The Aquila Digital Community. It has been accepted for inclusion in Gulf of Mexico Science by an authorized editor of The Aquila Digital Community. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Keller and Pomory: Effects of Porous Mesh Groynes on Macroinvertebrates of a Sandy B Gv.ljofMexiw Sdcnct, 2008(1), pp. 36-45 Effects of Porous Mesh Groynes on Macroinvertebrates of a Sandy Beach, Santa Rosa Island, Florida, U.S.A. W . .J. KELLER iu'ID C. M. POMORY The use of porous mesh groynes to accrete sand and stop erosion is a relath·ely new method of beach nourishment. Five groyne, five intergroync, and five control transects outside the groyne area on a beach near Destin, FL were santpled during the initial 3 mo after installment of groynes for Arenicola crista/a (polychaete) burrow numbers, benthic macroinvertcbrate numbers, and dry mass.
    [Show full text]
  • Chapter 43 Turbulence Scales in the Surf And
    CHAPTER 43 TURBULENCE SCALES IN THE SURF AND SWASH Reinhard E. Flick California Department of Boating and Waterways and Ronald A. George Center for Coastal Studies-0209 Scripps Institution of Oceanography La Jolla, California, USA 92093-0209 Abstract Ocean surface gravity waves breaking on gently sloping beaches generate sub- stantial turbulent velocity fluctuations, both from overturning at the surface bore and from shear stresses at the bottom. We have used measurements made with laboratory-style hotfilm anemometers in the surf and swash on a natural beach to determine the relevant length and velocity scales. Battjes (1975) has pointed out the importance of determining the turbulence scales in the surf zone. Modelers, such as Svendsen and Madsen (1984), for example, rely on length and velocity scale esti- mates to parameterize and solve the complicated equations that govern surf zone flows. We find that turbulence length scales depend essentially on the bore height, and therefore on the local depth, but may decrease sharply under the bore. We also determine that at least the horizontal velocities approach isotropy at frequencies of 2 to 3 Hz, which turn out to also correspond to length scales on the order of the local depth. Introduction The determination of "scales" plays an important role in turbulence research, since turbulent flows must be described by their characteristic times, lengths, veloci- ties, kinetic energies, Reynolds stresses, eddy viscosities and dissipation rates. Much of the theory of turbulence is concerned with establishing connections and relationships between these parameters and much experimental effort has gone into guiding these concerns. The basic reason why this approach is necessary, is that tur- bulent flows typically contain velocity fluctuations at a broad range of length scales, particularly small ones, so that direct analytical or numerical solution of the govern- ing equations is unmanageable.
    [Show full text]