Under Pressure Coastal Stack & Stump: Sediment Are Thrown Against Weathering (Freeze- the Cliffs by Waves

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

Under Pressure Coastal Stack & Stump: Sediment Are Thrown Against Weathering (Freeze- the Cliffs by Waves Tides: UP1 –Waves & Tides Constructive Waves: Longshore Drift: Transportation: • These are the rise and fall of the sea level, due • Traction: mainly to the pull of the moon • Strong swash and weak backwash that • Waves approach the beach at an angle due Large boulders and sediments • As the moon travels around the Earth, it push sand and pebbles up the beach to the prevailing wind direction are rolled along the sea bed. attracts the sea and pulls it upwards. The sun • Low waves with longer gaps between the • As the wave breaks, the swash carries They are too heavy to be helps too – but its much further away. So its crests (6-8 per min – low frequency) material up the beach at the same angle pull is not as strong. • Under 1m (oblique angle) as the prevailing wind picked up fully by the waves. • High tide occurs about every 12 and ½ hours, • Known as spilling waves as they ‘spill’ up • The backwash carries material back down with low tides in between. The difference the beach the beach at a right angle (90o) due to • Saltation: between the high and low tide is called the tidal • Gently sloping wave front gravity where small pieces of shingle range • Formed by storms often 100s KMs away • This means that material is moved along the or large sand grains are • Gentle beach beach in a zig zag route bounced along the sea bed. Waves: Destructive Waves: • Suspension: • Are formed by wind that blows over the sea, friction with the surface of water causes • Weak swash and strong backwash pulling small particles such as silts ripples to form and these develop into waves. sand and pebbles back down and clays are suspended in the • The size of the wave depends on how strong the • Steep high waves where the crest is flow of the water. wind is, how far it has travelled and how long closer together (up to 15 per min – high the wind blows for (fetch), and the speed of frequency) • Solution: the wind (strong winds = stronger waves) • Known as plunging waves as they break when minerals in rocks like • As the water becomes shallower the circular they plunge downwards chalk and limestone are motion becomes more elliptical, this causes the • Steep beach dissolved in sea water and crest of the wave to rise up and collapse on the • Formed by local storms close to the beach, the water rushes up the beach (swash) coast, they can destroy the beach then carried in solution. The and then flows back towards the sea (backwash) • Over 1m UP2 – Transportation load is not visible. Erosion: Weathering: The formation of a • Abrasion – loose rocks and • Mechanical Under Pressure coastal stack & stump: sediment are thrown against weathering (freeze- the cliffs by waves. thaw weathering): ‘Sandpapering’ effect of When it gets cold, water • Cracks in the side of pebbles grinding over a rocky gets into cracks in the a headland are platform often causing it to rock, and it freezes. The enlarged by erosion become smooth water expands when it (Hydraulic action, • Hydraulic action – water is turns to ice, so it puts Mechanical abrasion etc.) forced into cracks in the rock. pressure on the rock, creating a Cave. This compresses air inside. causing it to break up. • The cave eventually When the wave retreats the • Biological is eroded through compressed air blasts out. It weathering: the headland to can force the rock apart, Plants grow in cracks in form an Arch. called cavitation the rock and their roots The formation of headlands and bays: • Over time the arch • Attrition – loose sediment push the rocks apart. Headlands and Bays form on Coastlines where is eroded from the knocked off the cliff by Animals burrow and there are differing bands of hard (resistant) base and weathered hydraulic action and abrasion break up rocks. rock and soft (weak) rock. The weak rocks like from the top until is swirled around. It • Chemical clay erodes faster than the resistant rocks like its roof collapses constantly collides with other weathering: Biological limestone. This leaves the resistant rocks sediment. Rain is slightly acidic, so leaving behind a • Corrosion –sea water dissolves when it comes into jutting out as headlands. The Weaker softer Stack detached calcium carbonate from the contact with rocks, it rocks develop as bays and often accumulate from the headland. rock, such as limestone and wears away the top layer beaches as sediments are deposited in their • The stack will chalk of rock sheltered areas as constructive waves deposit eventually collapse leaving a Stump. UP2 –Erosion and Weathering Chemical material. UP3 & 4 – Coastal Landforms The Impacts of Coastal Erosion: Method How does it work? Advantages Disadvantages The Holderness coast is the fastest eroding coastline in Europe Hard engineering – man made structures to control the erosion 1. Strong prevailing winds creating longshore drift that moves material Recurved Sea wall Made of stone or Total protection from Very expensive. Just like south along the coastline. concrete it reflects erosion and can help a cliff face it will erode 2. The cliffs are made of a soft boulder waves and withstands prevent flooding too. and need replacement clay. It will therefore erode quickly, waves breaking on it and repair especially when saturated as water weakens the clay increasing slipping and slumping speeding up erosion. 3. Land is being lost on an average of 2-3m Groynes A low wall built out into Traps beach material Costly to build and per year along this coastline. the sea that traps sand and creates a protective maintain (still cheaper that is moved by beach, which acts as a than a seawall) and may longshore drift. Usually natural barrier to be viewed as made out of wooden erosion and which is also unattractive. fences but can also be attractive to tourists. Can create problems made out of large ‘down-drift’ as in the boulders such as at case of Mappleton and Mappleton. Sue Earl’s farm UP5 & 6 – Impacts of Erosion Rock armour (rip rap) Large boulders which Absorbs wave energy Still relatively expensive protect the coast by and cheaper than a and again will erode and Sea level rise is a threat to many coastal communities. Sea levels are rising and are predicted to rise further due to breaking up the waves, seawall. need maintenance. global climate change: dissipating the energy of • The melting of ice pack particularly in the Arctic and Antarctic. the waves. • Thermal expansion of the oceans (heating of the Ocean causing expansion) UP7, 8 & 9 – Coastal Management The Maldives: Soft engineering – more sustainable methods that work with natural processes This is a group of around a thousand Beach nourishment Adding sand to the Creates a natural Requires constant low-lying islands to the south west of beach to make it wider. defence, relatively maintenance and India in the Indian Ocean. Their low- This can be brought inexpensive and beach is replacement each year, lying landscape is particularly from elsewhere or attractive to tourists vulnerable to sea level rise caused by dredged from the sea global warming. bed. The islanders are concerned that Dune Regeneration Obstacles are put on the Creates a natural Have to be maintained rising sea levels will inundate (flood) and can be destroyed in UP5, 8 & 9 – Sea Level Rise beach for sand dunes to barrier against erosion their islands as well as increase the form around. Marram and a new habitat for stormy weather. Blocks access to the severity of erosion. This will cause Managing sea level rise in the Maldives: grass is planted to bind wildlife. beach for tourists. problems such the sand together. Loss of Tourist industry • Building dykes to hold back sea water. Protecting the islands from Loss of Fishing industry flooding and allowing tourism to continue for now. Managed retreat Abandoning the existing Low cost & encourages People will still lose their Houses and land lost • Build the islands upwards, sea defences and the creation of beaches property and may need Fresh water supplies • Educate world leaders on the impacts of climate change and populations building new ones and salt marshes which compensation contaminated at risk. further inland, creating are good for the Climate refugees (forced a salt marsh which also environment • Build sea walls in densely populated areas floods in storm migration as a result of climate • Begin to abandon the islands slowly, becoming environmental refugees. conditions. change). • Ask for foreign aid to build defences and offer advice. .
Recommended publications
  • A Field Experiment on a Nourished Beach
    CHAPTER 157 A Field Experiment on a Nourished Beach A.J. Fernandez* G. Gomez Pina * G. Cuena* J.L. Ramirez* Abstract The performance of a beach nourishment at" Playa de Castilla" (Huel- va, Spain) is evaluated by means of accurate beach profile surveys, vi- sual breaking wave information, buoy-measured wave data and sediment samples. The shoreline recession at the nourished beach due to "profile equilibration" and "spreading out" losses is discussed. The modified equi- librium profile curve proposed by Larson (1991) is shown to accurately describe the profiles with a grain size varying across-shore. The "spread- ing out" losses measured at " Playa de Castilla" are found to be less than predicted by spreading out formulations. The utilization of borrowed material substantially coarser than the native material is suggested as an explanation. 1 INTRODUCTION Fernandez et al. (1990) presented a case study of a sand bypass project at "Playa de Castilla" (Huelva, Spain) and the corresponding monitoring project, that was going to be undertaken. The Beach Nourishment Monitoring Project at the "Playa de Castilla" was begun over two years ago. The project is being *Direcci6n General de Costas. M.O.P.T, Madrid (Spain) 2043 2044 COASTAL ENGINEERING 1992 carried out to evaluate the performance of a beach fill and to establish effective strategies of coastal management and represents one of the most comprehensive monitoring projects that has been undertaken in Spain. This paper summa- rizes and discusses the data set for wave climate, beach profiles and sediment samples. 2 STUDY SITE & MONITORING PROGRAM Playa de Castilla, Fig. 1, is a sandy beach located on the South-West coast of Spain between the Guadiana and Gualdalquivir rivers.
    [Show full text]
  • USER MANUAL SWASH Version 7.01
    SWASH USER MANUAL SWASH version 7.01 SWASH USER MANUAL by : TheSWASHteam mail address : Delft University of Technology Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences Environmental Fluid Mechanics Section P.O. Box 5048 2600 GA Delft The Netherlands website : http://www.tudelft.nl/swash Copyright (c) 2010-2020 Delft University of Technology. Permission is granted to copy, distribute and/or modify this document under the terms of the GNU Free Documentation License, Version 1.2 or any later version published by the Free Software Foundation; with no Invariant Sections, no Front-Cover Texts, and no Back- Cover Texts. A copy of the license is available at http://www.gnu.org/licenses/fdl.html#TOC1. iv Contents 1 About this manual 1 2 Generaldescriptionandinstructionsforuse 3 2.1 Introduction................................... 3 2.2 Background,featuresandapplications . ...... 3 2.2.1 Objectiveandcontext ......................... 3 2.2.2 Abird’s-eyeviewofSWASH. 4 2.2.3 ModelfeaturesandvalidityofSWASH . 7 2.2.4 Relation to Boussinesq-type wave models . .... 8 2.2.5 Relation to circulation and coastal flow models. ...... 9 2.3 Internal scenarios, shortcomings and coding bugs . ......... 9 2.4 Unitsandcoordinatesystems . 10 2.5 Choiceofgridsandtimewindows . .. 11 2.5.1 Introduction............................... 11 2.5.2 Computationalgridandtimewindow . 12 2.5.3 Inputgrid(s)andtimewindow(s) . 13 2.5.4 Input grid(s) for transport of constituents . ...... 14 2.5.5 Outputgrids .............................. 15 2.6 Boundaryconditions .............................. 16 2.7 Timeanddatenotation ............................ 17 2.8 Troubleshooting................................. 17 3 Input and output files 19 3.1 General ..................................... 19 3.2 Input/outputfacilities . .. 19 3.3 Printfileanderrormessages . .. 20 4 Description of commands 21 4.1 Listofavailablecommands.
    [Show full text]
  • Coastal Landform Processes 29/03/2018 Do Now Copy Below: When Waves Lose Energy Material Is Deposited
    Coastal Landform Processes 29/03/2018 Do Now Copy below: When waves lose energy material is deposited. This typical happens in sheltered areas such as bays, this explains why beaches are found here. Wave refraction is where the energy of the wave is reduced Aim ▪ To understand process acting on the coast that lead to landforms Wave energy converges on the headlands Wave energy is diverged Wave energy converges on the headlands Sediment moves and is deposited http://www.bbc.co.uk/education/cli ps/zsmb4wx Erosion Destructive waves will erode the coastline in four different ways: 1. Hydraulic Power Complete your 2. Corrasion erosion sheet 3. Attrition 4. Corrosion 5. Abrasion Longshore Drift • “Longshore drift is a process by which sediments such as sand or other materials are transported along a beach.” • The general direction of longshore drift around the coasts of the British Isles is controlled by the direction of the dominant wind. http://www.bbc.co.uk/learningzo ne/clips/the-coastline- longshore-drift-and- spits/3086.html Longshore Drift: A bird’s eye view Cliff Beach Sea Longshore Drift: A bird’s eye view Cliff Eroded material Beach from the cliffs is left on the beach Bob the pebble Sea Longshore Drift: A bird’s eye view Cliff Beach Waves The waves from the sea come onto the beach at an angle and pick Bob and other material up and move them up the beach. Sea Longshore Drift: A bird’s eye view Cliff Beach Swash This movement of the waves is called SWASH. The waves come in at an angle due to Sea wind direction Longshore Drift: A bird’s eye view Cliff Beach The waves then move back down the beach in a straight Swash direction due to gravity.
    [Show full text]
  • 3.2.6. Methods for Field Measurement and Remote Sensing of the Swash Zone
    © Author(s) 2014. CC Attribution 4.0 License. ISSN 2047-0371 3.2.6. Methods for field measurement and remote sensing of the swash zone Sebastian J. Pitman1 1 Ocean and Earth Sciences, National Oceanography Centre, University of Southampton ([email protected]) ABSTRACT: Swash action is the dominant process responsible for the cross-shore exchange of sediment between the subaerial and subaqueous zones, with a significant part of the littoral drift also taking place as a result of swash motions. The swash zone is the area of the beach between the inner surfzone and backbeach that is intermittently submerged and exposed by the processes of wave uprush and backwash. Given the dominant role that swash plays in the morphological evolution of a beach, it is important to understand and quantify the main processes. The extent of swash (horizontally and vertically), current velocities and suspended sediment concentrations are all parameters of interest in the study of swash processes. In situ methods of measurements in this energetic zone were instrumental in developing early understanding of swash processes, however, the field has experienced a shift towards remote sensing methods. This article outlines the emergence of high precision technologies such as video imaging and LIDAR (light detection and ranging) for the study of swash processes. Furthermore, the applicability of these methods to large-scale datasets for quantitative analysis is demonstrated. KEYWORDS: run-up, morphodynamics, coastal imaging, video, LIDAR. Introduction al., 2004) and its dominant responses are largely well understood. It is the most The beachface is a highly spatially and energetic zone in terms of bed sediment temporally dynamic zone, predominantly due movement and is characterised by strong and to swash processes such as wave run up.
    [Show full text]
  • Turbulence in the Swash and Surf Zones: a Review
    Coastal Engineering 45 (2002) 129–147 www.elsevier.com/locate/coastaleng Turbulence in the swash and surf zones: a review Sandro Longo a,*, Marco Petti b,1, Inigo J. Losada c,2 aDepartment of Civil Engineering, University of Parma, Parco Area delle Scienze, 181/A, 43100 Parma, Italy bDipartimento di Georisorse e Territorio, Faculty of Engineering, University of Udine, Via del Cotonificio, 114, 33100 Udine, Italy cOcean and Coastal Research Group, Universidad de Cantabria, E.T.S.I.C.C. y P. Av. de los Castros s/n, 39005 Santander, Spain Abstract This paper reviews mainly conceptual models and experimental work, in the field and in the laboratory, dedicated during the last decades to studying turbulence of breaking waves and bores moving in very shallow water and in the swash zone. The phenomena associated with vorticity and turbulence structures measured are summarised, including the measurement techniques and the laboratory generation of breaking waves or of flow fields sharing several characteristics with breaking waves. The effect of air entrapment during breaking is discussed. The limits of the present knowledge, especially in modelling a two- or three-phase system, with air and sediment entrapped at high turbulence level, and perspectives of future research are discussed. D 2002 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved. Keywords: Swash zone; Surf zone; Breaking waves; Turbulence; Length scales; Coastal hydrodynamics 1. Introduction short and long waves, currents, turbulence and vorti- ces may be present. Therefore, the hydrodynamics to The swash zone is defined as the part of the beach be found in the swash zone is largely determined by between the minimum and maximum water levels the boundary conditions imposed by the beach face during wave runup and rundown.
    [Show full text]
  • National List of Beaches 2008
    National List of Beaches September 2008 U.S. Environmental Protection Agency Office of Water 1200 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW Washington DC 20460 EPA-823-R-08-004 Contents Introduction ...................................................................................................................................... 1 States Alabama........................................................................................................................................... 3 Alaska .............................................................................................................................................. 5 California.......................................................................................................................................... 6 Connecticut .................................................................................................................................... 15 Delaware........................................................................................................................................ 17 Florida ............................................................................................................................................ 18 Georgia .......................................................................................................................................... 31 Hawaii ............................................................................................................................................ 33 Illinois ............................................................................................................................................
    [Show full text]
  • Shaping the Beach, One Wave at a Time New Research Is Deciphering How Currents, Waves, and Sands Change Our Shorelines
    http://oceanusmag.whoi.edu/v43n1/raubenheimer.html Shaping the Beach, One Wave at a Time New research is deciphering how currents, waves, and sands change our shorelines By Britt Raubenheimer, Associate Scientist nearshore region—the stretch of sand, for a beach to erode or build up. Applied Ocean Physics & Engineering Dept. rock, and water between the dry land be- Understanding beaches and the adja- Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution hind the beach and the beginning of deep cent nearshore ocean is critical because or years, scientists who study the water far from shore. To comprehend and nearly half of the U.S. population lives Fshoreline have wondered at the appar- predict how shorelines will change from within a day’s drive of a coast. Shoreline ent fickleness of storms, which can dev- day to day and year to year, we have to: recreation is also a significant part of the astate one part of a coastline, yet leave an • decipher how waves evolve; economy of many states. adjacent part untouched. One beach may • determine where currents will form For more than a decade, I have been wash away, with houses tumbling into the and why; working with WHOI Senior Scientist Steve sea, while a nearby beach weathers a storm • learn where sand comes from and Elgar and colleagues across the coun- without a scratch. How can this be? where it goes; try to decipher patterns and processes in The answers lie in the physics of the • understand when conditions are right this environment. Most of our work takes A Mess of Physics Near the Shore Many forces intersect and interact in the surf and swash zones of the coastal ocean, pushing sand and water up, down, and along the coast.
    [Show full text]
  • Effects of Porous Mesh Groynes on Macroinvertebrates of a Sandy Beach, Santa Rosa Island, Florida, U.S.A
    Gulf of Mexico Science Volume 26 Article 4 Number 1 Number 1 2008 Effects of Porous Mesh Groynes on Macroinvertebrates of a Sandy Beach, Santa Rosa Island, Florida, U.S.A. W.J. Keller University of West Florida C.M. Pomory University of West Florida DOI: 10.18785/goms.2601.04 Follow this and additional works at: https://aquila.usm.edu/goms Recommended Citation Keller, W. and C. Pomory. 2008. Effects of Porous Mesh Groynes on Macroinvertebrates of a Sandy Beach, Santa Rosa Island, Florida, U.S.A.. Gulf of Mexico Science 26 (1). Retrieved from https://aquila.usm.edu/goms/vol26/iss1/4 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by The Aquila Digital Community. It has been accepted for inclusion in Gulf of Mexico Science by an authorized editor of The Aquila Digital Community. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Keller and Pomory: Effects of Porous Mesh Groynes on Macroinvertebrates of a Sandy B Gv.ljofMexiw Sdcnct, 2008(1), pp. 36-45 Effects of Porous Mesh Groynes on Macroinvertebrates of a Sandy Beach, Santa Rosa Island, Florida, U.S.A. W . .J. KELLER iu'ID C. M. POMORY The use of porous mesh groynes to accrete sand and stop erosion is a relath·ely new method of beach nourishment. Five groyne, five intergroync, and five control transects outside the groyne area on a beach near Destin, FL were santpled during the initial 3 mo after installment of groynes for Arenicola crista/a (polychaete) burrow numbers, benthic macroinvertcbrate numbers, and dry mass.
    [Show full text]
  • Chapter 43 Turbulence Scales in the Surf And
    CHAPTER 43 TURBULENCE SCALES IN THE SURF AND SWASH Reinhard E. Flick California Department of Boating and Waterways and Ronald A. George Center for Coastal Studies-0209 Scripps Institution of Oceanography La Jolla, California, USA 92093-0209 Abstract Ocean surface gravity waves breaking on gently sloping beaches generate sub- stantial turbulent velocity fluctuations, both from overturning at the surface bore and from shear stresses at the bottom. We have used measurements made with laboratory-style hotfilm anemometers in the surf and swash on a natural beach to determine the relevant length and velocity scales. Battjes (1975) has pointed out the importance of determining the turbulence scales in the surf zone. Modelers, such as Svendsen and Madsen (1984), for example, rely on length and velocity scale esti- mates to parameterize and solve the complicated equations that govern surf zone flows. We find that turbulence length scales depend essentially on the bore height, and therefore on the local depth, but may decrease sharply under the bore. We also determine that at least the horizontal velocities approach isotropy at frequencies of 2 to 3 Hz, which turn out to also correspond to length scales on the order of the local depth. Introduction The determination of "scales" plays an important role in turbulence research, since turbulent flows must be described by their characteristic times, lengths, veloci- ties, kinetic energies, Reynolds stresses, eddy viscosities and dissipation rates. Much of the theory of turbulence is concerned with establishing connections and relationships between these parameters and much experimental effort has gone into guiding these concerns. The basic reason why this approach is necessary, is that tur- bulent flows typically contain velocity fluctuations at a broad range of length scales, particularly small ones, so that direct analytical or numerical solution of the govern- ing equations is unmanageable.
    [Show full text]
  • Laurentian Great Lakes, Interaction of Coastal and Offshore Waters Introduction
    1Encyclopedia of Earth Sciences Series IEncyclopedia of Lakes and Reservoirs ISpringer Science+Business Media B.V. 2012 110.1007/978-1-4020-4410-6_264 ILars Bengtsson, Reginald W. Herschyand Rhodes W. Fairbridge Laurentian Great Lakes, Interaction of Coastal and Offshore Waters 1 21S3 Yerubandi R. Rao IS3 and David J. Schwab (1) Environment Canada, National Water Research Institute, Canada Center for Inland Waters, 867 Lakeshore Road, Burlington, ON, Canada (2) Great Lakes Environmental Research Laboratory, 2205 Commonwealth Blvd, Ann Arbor, MI 48105, USA IS::l Yerubandi R. Rao (Corresponding author) Email: [email protected] [;] David J. Schwab Email: [email protected] Without Abstract Introduction The Laurentian Great Lakes represent an extensive, interconnected aquatic system dominated by its coastal nature. While the lakes are large enough to be significantly influenced by the earth's rotation, they are at the same time closed basins to be strongly influenced by coastal processes (Csanady, 1984). Nowhere is an understanding of how physical, geological, chemical, and biological processes interact in a coastal system more important to a body of water than the Great Lakes. Several factors combine to create complex hydrodynamics in coastal systems, and the associated physical transport and dispersal processes of the resulting coastal flow field are equally complex. Physical transport processes are often the dominant factor in mediating geochemical and biological processes in the coastal environment. Thus, it is critically important to have a thorough understanding of the coastal physical processes responsible for the distribution of chemical and biological species in this zone. However, the coastal regions are not isolated but are coupled with mid-lake waters by exchanges involving transport of materials, momentum, and energy.
    [Show full text]
  • Wave Runup on Atoll Reefs
    MSc. Thesis Wave runup on atoll reefs Ellen Quataert January 2015 Front cover: Aerial view of the southern tip of the Kwajalein Atoll in the Republic of the Marshall Islands. Source: www.fayeandsteve.com Wave runup on atoll reefs Ellen Quataert 1210070-000 © Deltares, 2015, B Keywords Runup, atoll reef, XBeach, infragravity wave, wave-induced setup, incident swash, infragravity swash, Kwajalein Summary The aim of this research was to take the first step in understanding the wave runup process on an atoll reef using the XBeach model. Field data collected from 3 November 2013 to 13 April 2014 at Kwajalein Atoll in the Republic of the Marshall Islands was used. The dataset included data on bathymetry, waves, water levels and wave-induced runup. The data was analysed and subsequently used to model the hydrodynamics across the reef and the wave runup. The hydrostatic and non-hydrostatic XBeach models were used to capture both components of runup, infragravity and incident swash. Finally, a conceptual model was created to investigate the effect of variations in the atoll reef parameter space on the wave runup. References 1210070-000 Version Date Author Initials Review Initials Approval Initials Jan. 2015 E. Quataert A.R. van Dongeren F. Hoozemans A.A. van Rooijen State final Wave runup on atoll reefs Wave runup on atoll reefs by Ellen Quataert in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science in Civil Engineering Delft University of Technology January 2015 In collaboration with: Graduation committee: Prof. dr. ir. M.J.F. Stive Delft University of Technology ir.
    [Show full text]
  • Connecting Wind-Driven Upwelling and Offshore Stratification To
    CORE Metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk Provided by DigitalCommons@CalPoly PUBLICATIONS Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans RESEARCH ARTICLE Connecting wind-driven upwelling and offshore stratification 10.1002/2014JC009998 to nearshore internal bores and oxygen variability 1 2 3 1 Key Points: Ryan K. Walter , C. Brock Woodson , Paul R. Leary , and Stephen G. Monismith • Regional upwelling and relaxation 1 2 cycles modulate offshore Environmental Fluid Mechanics Laboratory, Stanford University, Stanford, California, USA, COBIA Lab, College of stratification 3 Engineering, University of Georgia, Athens, Georgia, USA, Hopkins Marine Station, Stanford University, Pacific Grove, • Changes in offshore stratification California, USA modify the nearshore internal bore field • Upwelling regimes and bores are important for assessing oxygen Abstract This study utilizes field observations in southern Monterey Bay, CA, to examine how regional- variability scale upwelling and changing offshore (shelf) conditions influence nearshore internal bores. We show that the low-frequency wind forcing (e.g., upwelling/relaxation time scales) modifies the offshore stratification Correspondence to: and thermocline depth. This in turn alters the strength and structure of observed internal bores in the near- R. K. Walter, [email protected] shore. An internal bore strength index is defined using the high-pass filtered potential energy density anomaly in the nearshore. During weak upwelling favorable conditions and wind relaxations, the offshore Citation: thermocline deepens. In this case, both the amplitude of the offshore internal tide and the strength of the Walter, R. K., C. B. Woodson, P. R. Leary, nearshore internal bores increase. In contrast, during strong upwelling conditions, the offshore thermocline and S.
    [Show full text]