Tides Longshore Drift

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

Tides Longshore Drift 9613 - SC&H KS2 FactSheet - TIDES&WAVES-vB01 03/04/2012 14:12 Page 2 Suffolk Coast and Heaths www.suffolkcoastandheaths.org Coastal Knowledge Longshore drift Waves also transport sand and shingle along the shore, a process known as longshore drift. Waves often hit the shore at & an angle, depending on the direction of the wind. Longshore Tides waves drift has created features like Orford Ness and Landguard Point. Sometimes man tries to slow down longshore drift by building defences called groynes. “Hi I’m Marvin Moon. Did you know I act like a big magnet? Using the “Longshore drift moves sand sideways force of gravity, I pull the oceans towards me as the along the beach in a zig-zag pattern – this can earth spins. You see this as movement of water up sometimes cause sand to pile up on one side of and down a beach or in and out of an estuary. the beach! Look out for this next time These are called tides.” you go to the beach”. Things to do: See how currents Things to do: move sand Tides How tides are made Using the same You need 7 people and 7 When you’ve been at the beach, have you noticed tray and water add a balloons. 1 green balloon is the 1 that the water level changes? drop of ink or paint and earth, 1 white balloon is the blow and watch how the Sometimes it changes so much you may need to move moon, 1 yellow balloon is the ink moves. your deck chairs further up the beach as the tide sun and 4 blue balloons are the See how groynes work comes in! This is all because of the invisible attraction sea. The sun and earth stay in The amazing effect of the same place Using a clean tray and 1 Longshore drift can be acting between the moon and the earth, called gravity. 2water this time put a ruler and spin whilst half way across the tray and seen at Orford Ness As the Moon moves and spins around the Earth, gravity the moon moves around blow the paint towards the pulls – like a magnet - on the earth’s seas that are closest the earth ruler. See what happens! to it. This causes water to bulge towards the moon (see Longshore drift attracting diagram below) and a balancing bulge occurs on the the sea. Direction of opposite side of the earth. Of course, the continents get in Beach Have fun! movement the way, and the bulges of water can’t move smoothly Swash around the earth as it rotates. If you stay in one place you Backwash Waves Direction will normally see water levels go up and down, making high of waves and low tides, twice a day and just over six hours apart. Low tide 2 Moon Produced by EFMS Design & Print High High The Coastal Knowledge Fact Sheets have Sun been produced by the Suffolk Coast and Heaths tide tide AONB with co-funding from our partners. Photographs by Malcolm Farrow, Tony Pick, Rolando Ugolini and Mike Page Cartoons: Marvin Moon © Simon Reid. Gravitational Illustrations: Rolando Ugolini attraction Sun also has a Low tide www.suffolkcoastandheaths.org gravitational effect 9613 - SC&H KS2 FactSheet - TIDES&WAVES-vB01 03/04/2012 14:12 Page 4 Destructive waves Waves These are tall, steep waves that carry a lot of Things to do: energy. These waves hit the beach hard and Making waves As wind passes over the sea, it forces the water fast, with lots of water and energy, and can Get a tray and pour in water to surface to ripple, and eventually to form into waves. destroy the beach by washing beach material – cover the bottom then blow! As waves approach the beach, they touch against the sand and pebbles – away. See what happens? sea bottom, which makes them become higher and Large waves steeper until they finally break, creating the white hitting the beach water that rushes up the beach. The size of a wave is affected by the speed of the wind, and how long it blows for, how deep the water “Did you know is, and how great is the fetch – the distance the wind that the wind has travelled across open water. makes waves on We can recognise the difference between the sea?” constructive and destructive waves. Rocks protecting the beach Constructive waves These are small waves below one metre in height that are low in energy. As the wave breaks gently on the beach it Destructive waves at Slaughden taking carries sand and pebbles with shingle away it, which are then left behind as the tide goes out. This type of wave helps to put sand Large wave with back on the beaches. lots of energy Shingle pushed up Strong by small waves backwash Constructive waves leaving shingle Waves at Felixstowe behind at Hollesley Bay Destructive Wave Constructive Wave Larger in height, Smaller in height, more energy less energy Weak backwash: little or no erosion Strong swash: pushes shingle and sand up the Strong backwash: Weak swash: little or no beach building it up erodes the beach beach building.
Recommended publications
  • Turning the Tide on Trash: Great Lakes
    Turning the Tide On Trash A LEARNING GUIDE ON MARINE DEBRIS Turning the Tide On Trash A LEARNING GUIDE ON MARINE DEBRIS Floating marine debris in Hawaii NOAA PIFSC CRED Educators, parents, students, and Unfortunately, the ocean is currently researchers can use Turning the Tide under considerable pressure. The on Trash as they explore the serious seeming vastness of the ocean has impacts that marine debris can have on prompted people to overestimate its wildlife, the environment, our well being, ability to safely absorb our wastes. For and our economy. too long, we have used these waters as a receptacle for our trash and other Covering nearly three-quarters of the wastes. Integrating the following lessons Earth, the ocean is an extraordinary and background chapters into your resource. The ocean supports fishing curriculum can help to teach students industries and coastal economies, that they can be an important part of the provides recreational opportunities, solution. Many of the lessons can also and serves as a nurturing home for a be modified for science fair projects and multitude of marine plants and wildlife. other learning extensions. C ON T EN T S 1 Acknowledgments & History of Turning the Tide on Trash 2 For Educators and Parents: How to Use This Learning Guide UNIT ONE 5 The Definition, Characteristics, and Sources of Marine Debris 17 Lesson One: Coming to Terms with Marine Debris 20 Lesson Two: Trash Traits 23 Lesson Three: A Degrading Experience 30 Lesson Four: Marine Debris – Data Mining 34 Lesson Five: Waste Inventory 38 Lesson
    [Show full text]
  • A Numerical Study of the Long- and Short-Term Temperature Variability and Thermal Circulation in the North Sea
    JANUARY 2003 LUYTEN ET AL. 37 A Numerical Study of the Long- and Short-Term Temperature Variability and Thermal Circulation in the North Sea PATRICK J. LUYTEN Management Unit of the Mathematical Models, Brussels, Belgium JOHN E. JONES AND ROGER PROCTOR Proudman Oceanographic Laboratory, Bidston, United Kingdom (Manuscript received 3 January 2001, in ®nal form 4 April 2002) ABSTRACT A three-dimensional numerical study is presented of the seasonal, semimonthly, and tidal-inertial cycles of temperature and density-driven circulation within the North Sea. The simulations are conducted using realistic forcing data and are compared with the 1989 data of the North Sea Project. Sensitivity experiments are performed to test the physical and numerical impact of the heat ¯ux parameterizations, turbulence scheme, and advective transport. Parameterizations of the surface ¯uxes with the Monin±Obukhov similarity theory provide a relaxation mechanism and can partially explain the previously obtained overestimate of the depth mean temperatures in summer. Temperature strati®cation and thermocline depth are reasonably predicted using a variant of the Mellor±Yamada turbulence closure with limiting conditions for turbulence variables. The results question the common view to adopt a tuned background scheme for internal wave mixing. Two mechanisms are discussed that describe the feedback of the turbulence scheme on the surface forcing and the baroclinic circulation, generated at the tidal mixing fronts. First, an increased vertical mixing increases the depth mean temperature in summer through the surface heat ¯ux, with a restoring mechanism acting during autumn. Second, the magnitude and horizontal shear of the density ¯ow are reduced in response to a higher mixing rate.
    [Show full text]
  • Prioritization of Oxygen Delivery During Elevated Metabolic States
    Respiratory Physiology & Neurobiology 144 (2004) 215–224 Eat and run: prioritization of oxygen delivery during elevated metabolic states James W. Hicks∗, Albert F. Bennett Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology, University of California, Irvine, CA 92697, USA Accepted 25 May 2004 Abstract The principal function of the cardiopulmonary system is the matching of oxygen and carbon dioxide transport to the metabolic V˙ requirements of different tissues. Increased oxygen demands ( O2 ), for example during physical activity, result in a rapid compensatory increase in cardiac output and redistribution of blood flow to the appropriate skeletal muscles. These cardiovascular changes are matched by suitable ventilatory increments. This matching of cardiopulmonary performance and metabolism during activity has been demonstrated in a number of different taxa, and is universal among vertebrates. In some animals, large V˙ increments in aerobic metabolism may also be associated with physiological states other than activity. In particular, O2 may increase following feeding due to the energy requiring processes associated with prey handling, digestion and ensuing protein V˙ V˙ synthesis. This large increase in O2 is termed “specific dynamic action” (SDA). In reptiles, the increase in O2 during SDA may be 3–40-fold above resting values, peaking 24–36 h following ingestion, and remaining elevated for up to 7 days. In addition to the increased metabolic demands, digestion is associated with secretion of H+ into the stomach, resulting in a large metabolic − alkalosis (alkaline tide) and a near doubling in plasma [HCO3 ]. During digestion then, the cardiopulmonary system must meet the simultaneous challenges of an elevated oxygen demand and a pronounced metabolic alkalosis.
    [Show full text]
  • Arenicola Marina During Low Tide
    MARINE ECOLOGY PROGRESS SERIES Published June 15 Mar Ecol Prog Ser Sulfide stress and tolerance in the lugworm Arenicola marina during low tide Susanne Volkel, Kerstin Hauschild, Manfred K. Grieshaber Institut fiir Zoologie, Lehrstuhl fur Tierphysiologie, Heinrich-Heine-Universitat, Universitatsstr. 1, D-40225 Dusseldorf, Germany ABSTRACT: In the present study environmental sulfide concentrations in the vicinity of and within burrows of the lugworm Arenicola marina during tidal exposure are presented. Sulfide concentrations in the pore water of the sediment ranged from 0.4 to 252 pM. During 4 h of tidal exposure no significant changes of pore water sulfide concentrations were observed. Up to 32 pM sulfide were measured in the water of lugworm burrows. During 4 h of low tide the percentage of burrows containing sulfide increased from 20 to 50% in July and from 36 to 77% in October A significant increase of median sulfide concentrations from 0 to 14.5 pM was observed after 5 h of emersion. Sulfide and thiosulfate concentrations in the coelomic fluid and succinate, alanopine and strombine levels in the body wall musculature of freshly caught A. marina were measured. During 4 h of tidal exposure in July the percentage of lugworms containing sulfide and maximal sulfide concentrations increased from 17 % and 5.4 pM to 62% and 150 pM, respectively. A significant increase of median sulfide concentrations was observed after 2 and 3 h of emersion. In October, changes of sulfide concentrations were less pronounced. Median thiosulfate concentrations were 18 to 32 FM in July and 7 to 12 ~.IMin October No significant changes were observed during tidal exposure.
    [Show full text]
  • POLÍTICA DE DIVERSIDADE E INCLUSÃO Sumário
    POLÍTICA DE DIVERSIDADE E INCLUSÃO Sumário 5 Diversidade para combater as desigualdades 9 O Comitê de Diversidade e Inclusão 11 Entendendo um pouco sobre preconceito, discriminação, opressão estrutural, diversidade e inclusão 23 Quais temas serão tratados na Política de Diversidade e Inclusão da Fundação Tide Setubal? 39 Fundação Tide Setubal: princípios e compromissos 49 Canais de acolhimento 51 Referências Dezembro, 2020 Diversidade para combater as 1 desigualdades A Fundação Tide Setubal tem como missão “fomentar iniciativas que promovam a justiça social e o desenvol- vimento sustentável de periferias urbanas e contribuam para o enfrentamento das desigualdades socioespaciais das grandes cidades, em articulação com diversos agen- tes da sociedade civil, de instituições de pesquisa, do Estado e do mercado”. O uso do termo desigualdades, no plural, implica reconhecer que a vida dos sujeitos é atravessada não apenas pelas diferenças econômicas, mas também por uma série de fatores estruturais carac- terísticos de nossa sociedade que impactam a capacida- de das pessoas de viver e exercer seus direitos de forma plena. A discriminação e o preconceito sofridos por gru- pos minorizados também são vetores de exclusão social e contribuem para a reprodução e o aprofundamento do abismo social que separa incluídos e excluídos no Brasil. POLÍTICA DE DIVERSIDADE E INCLUSÃO 6 É com base nesse compromisso de combater as de- sigualdades em todas as suas formas que a Fundação apresenta esta Política de Diversidade e Inclusão. Nela, ficam estabelecidas as regras e compromissos que de- vem pautar a atuação de nossas colaboradoras e cola- boradores no sentido de combater ativamente todas as formas de discriminação e preconceito e promover a inclusão de todas as pessoas, independentemente de raça, gênero, orientação sexual, identidade de gênero, capacidade e origem nacional ou territorial.
    [Show full text]
  • Assessing Long-Term Changes in the Beach Width of Reef Islands Based on Temporally Fragmented Remote Sensing Data
    Remote Sens. 2014, 6, 6961-6987; doi:10.3390/rs6086961 OPEN ACCESS remote sensing ISSN 2072-4292 www.mdpi.com/journal/remotesensing Article Assessing Long-Term Changes in the Beach Width of Reef Islands Based on Temporally Fragmented Remote Sensing Data Thomas Mann 1,* and Hildegard Westphal 1,2 1 Leibniz Center for Tropical Marine Ecology, Fahrenheitstrasse 6, D-28359 Bremen, Germany; E-Mail: [email protected] 2 Department of Geosciences, University of Bremen, D-28359 Bremen, Germany * Author to whom correspondence should be addressed; E-Mail: [email protected]; Tel.: +49-421-2380-0132; Fax: +49-421-2380-030. Received: 30 May 2014; in revised form: 7 July 2014 / Accepted: 18 July 2014 / Published: 25 July 2014 Abstract: Atoll islands are subject to a variety of processes that influence their geomorphological development. Analysis of historical shoreline changes using remotely sensed images has become an efficient approach to both quantify past changes and estimate future island response. However, the detection of long-term changes in beach width is challenging mainly for two reasons: first, data availability is limited for many remote Pacific islands. Second, beach environments are highly dynamic and strongly influenced by seasonal or episodic shoreline oscillations. Consequently, remote-sensing studies on beach morphodynamics of atoll islands deal with dynamic features covered by a low sampling frequency. Here we present a study of beach dynamics for nine islands on Takú Atoll, Papua New Guinea, over a seven-decade period. A considerable chronological gap between aerial photographs and satellite images was addressed by applying a new method that reweighted positions of the beach limit by identifying “outlier” shoreline positions.
    [Show full text]
  • Subsurface Dinoflagellate Populations, Frontal Blooms and the Formation of Red Tide in the Southern Benguela Upwelling System
    MARINE ECOLOGY PROGRESS SERIES Vol. 172: 253-264. 1998 Published October 22 Mar Ecol Prog Ser Subsurface dinoflagellate populations, frontal blooms and the formation of red tide in the southern Benguela upwelling system G. C. Pitcher*,A. J. Boyd, D. A. Horstman, B. A. Mitchell-Innes Sea Fisheries Research Institute, Private Bag X2, Rogge Bay 8012, Cape Town. South Africa ABSTRACT- The West Coast of South Africa is often subjected to problems associated with red tides which are usually attributed to blooms of migratory dinoflagellates. This study investigates the cou- pling between the physical environment and the biological behaviour and physiological adaptation of dinoflagellates in an attempt to understand bloom development, maintenance and decline. Widespread and persistent subsurface dinoflagellate populations domlnate the stratified waters of the southern Benguela during the latter part of the upwelling season. Chlorophyll concentrations as high as 50 mg m-3 are associated with the the]-mocline at approximately 20 m depth but photosynthesis in this region is restricted by low light. The subsurface population is brought to the surface in the region of the upwelling front. Here increased light levels are responsible for enhanced production, in some instances exceeding 80 mgC rn.' h ', and resulting in dense dinoflagellate concentrations in and around the uplifted thermocline. Under particular wind and current conditions these frontal bloon~sare trans- ported and accumulated inshore and red tides are formed. KEY WORDS: Dinoflagellates Subsurface populations . Frontal bloolns Red tide - Upwelling systems INTRODUCTION Pitcher 1996), or from physical damage, such as the clogging of fish gills (Grindley & Nel 1968, Brown et al.
    [Show full text]
  • Hydrographic Surveys Specifications and Deliverables
    HYDROGRAPHIC SURVEYS SPECIFICATIONS AND DELIVERABLES March 2019 U.S. Department of Commerce National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration National Ocean Service Contents 1 Introduction ......................................................................................................................................1 1.1 Change Management ............................................................................................................................................. 2 1.2 Changes from April 2018 ...................................................................................................................................... 2 1.3 Definitions ............................................................................................................................................................... 4 1.3.1 Hydrographer ................................................................................................................................................. 4 1.3.2 Navigable Area Survey .................................................................................................................................. 4 1.4 Pre-Survey Assessment ......................................................................................................................................... 5 1.5 Environmental Compliance .................................................................................................................................. 5 1.6 Dangers to Navigation ..........................................................................................................................................
    [Show full text]
  • Doppler Sonar Current Indicator 8
    DOPPLER SONAR CURRENT INDICATOR 8 Model High-performance current indicator displays accurate speed and current data at five depth layers on a 10.4" color TFT or virtually any VGA monitor utilizing a Black Box system www.furuno.com Obtain highly accurate water current measurements using FURUNO’s reliable acoustic technology. The FURUNO CI-68 is a Doppler Sonar Current The absolute movements of tide Indicator designed for various types of fish and measuring layers are displayed in colors. hydrographic survey vessels. The CI-68 displays tide speed and direction at five depth layers and ship’s speed on a high defi- nition 10.4” color LCD. Using this information, you can predict net shape and plan when to throw your net. Tide vector for Layer 1 The CI-68 has a triple-beam emission system for providing highly accurate current measurement. This system greatly reduces the effects of the Tide vector for Layer 2 rolling, pitching and heaving motions, providing a continuous display of tide information. When ground (bottom) reference is not available Tide vector for Layer 3 acoustically in deep water, the CI-68 can provide true tide current information by receiving position and speed data from a GPS navigator and head- ing data from the satellite (GPS) compass SC- 50/110 or gyrocompass. In addition, navigation Tide vector for Layer 4 information, including position, course and ship ’s track, can also be displayed The CI-68 consists of a display unit, processor Tide vector for Layer 5 unit and transducer. The control unit and display unit can be installed separately for flexible instal- lation.
    [Show full text]
  • Waves and Wind Shape Land
    KEY CONCEPT Waves and wind shape land. BEFORE, you learned NOW, you will learn • Stream systems shape Earth’s • How waves and currents surface shape shorelines •Groundwater creates caverns •How wind shapes land and sinkholes VOCABULARY THINK ABOUT longshore drift p. 587 How did these longshore current p. 587 sandbar p. 588 pillars of rock form? barrier island p. 588 The rock formations in this dune p. 589 photograph stand along the loess p. 590 shoreline near the small town of Port Campbell, Australia. What natural force created these isolated stone pillars? What evidence of this force can you see in the photograph? Waves and currents shape shorelines. NOTE-TAKING STRATEGY The stone pillars, or sea stacks, in the photograph above are a major Remember to organize tourist attraction in Port Campbell National Park. They were formed your notes in a chart or web as you read. by the movement of water. The constant action of waves breaking against the cliffs slowly wore them away, leaving behind pillarlike formations. Waves continue to wear down the pillars and cliffs at the rate of about two centimeters (one inch) a year. In the years to come, the waves will likely wear away the stone pillars completely. The force of waves, powered by wind, can wear away rock and move thousands of tons of sand on beaches. The force of wind itself can change the look of the land. Moving air can pick up sand particles and move them around to build up dunes. Wind can also carry huge amounts of fine sediment thousands of kilometers.
    [Show full text]
  • Time-Variable Refraction of the Internal Tide at the Hawaiian Ridge
    Portland State University PDXScholar Civil and Environmental Engineering Faculty Publications and Presentations Civil and Environmental Engineering 2-2014 Time-Variable Refraction of the Internal Tide at the Hawaiian Ridge Edward D. Zaron Portland State University, [email protected] Gary D. Egbert Oregon State University Follow this and additional works at: https://pdxscholar.library.pdx.edu/cengin_fac Part of the Civil Engineering Commons, and the Environmental Engineering Commons Let us know how access to this document benefits ou.y Citation Details Zaron, E. D., & Egbert, G. D. (2014). Time-Variable Refraction of the Internal Tide at the Hawaiian Ridge. Journal Of Physical Oceanography, 44(2), 538-557. This Article is brought to you for free and open access. It has been accepted for inclusion in Civil and Environmental Engineering Faculty Publications and Presentations by an authorized administrator of PDXScholar. Please contact us if we can make this document more accessible: [email protected]. 538 JOURNAL OF PHYSICAL OCEANOGRAPHY VOLUME 44 Time-Variable Refraction of the Internal Tide at the Hawaiian Ridge EDWARD D. ZARON Portland State University, Portland, Oregon GARY D. EGBERT Oregon State University, Corvallis, Oregon (Manuscript received 14 December 2012, in final form 5 September 2013) ABSTRACT The interaction of the dominant semidiurnal M2 internal tide with the large-scale subtidal flow is examined in an ocean model by propagating the tide through an ensemble of background fields in a domain centered on the Hawaiian Ridge. The background fields are taken from the Simple Ocean Data Assimilation (SODA) ocean analysis, at 2-month intervals from 1992 through 2001. Tides are computed with the Primitive Equation Z-coordinate Harmonic Analysis of Tides (PEZ-HAT) model by 14-day integrations using SODA initial conditions and M2 tidal forcing.
    [Show full text]
  • Lecture 1: Introduction to Ocean Tides
    Lecture 1: Introduction to ocean tides Myrl Hendershott 1 Introduction The phenomenon of oceanic tides has been observed and studied by humanity for centuries. Success in localized tidal prediction and in the general understanding of tidal propagation in ocean basins led to the belief that this was a well understood phenomenon and no longer of interest for scientific investigation. However, recent decades have seen a renewal of interest for this subject by the scientific community. The goal is now to understand the dissipation of tidal energy in the ocean. Research done in the seventies suggested that rather than being mostly dissipated on continental shelves and shallow seas, tidal energy could excite far traveling internal waves in the ocean. Through interaction with oceanic currents, topographic features or with other waves, these could transfer energy to smaller scales and contribute to oceanic mixing. This has been suggested as a possible driving mechanism for the thermohaline circulation. This first lecture is introductory and its aim is to review the tidal generating mechanisms and to arrive at a mathematical expression for the tide generating potential. 2 Tide Generating Forces Tidal oscillations are the response of the ocean and the Earth to the gravitational pull of celestial bodies other than the Earth. Because of their movement relative to the Earth, this gravitational pull changes in time, and because of the finite size of the Earth, it also varies in space over its surface. Fortunately for local tidal prediction, the temporal response of the ocean is very linear, allowing tidal records to be interpreted as the superposition of periodic components with frequencies associated with the movements of the celestial bodies exerting the force.
    [Show full text]