KEY CONCEPT Waves and wind shape land.

BEFORE, you learned NOW, you will learn • Stream systems shape Earth’s • How waves and currents surface shape shorelines •Groundwater creates caverns •How wind shapes land and sinkholes

VOCABULARY THINK ABOUT longshore drift p. 587 How did these longshore current p. 587 sandbar p. 588 pillars of rock form? barrier island p. 588 The rock formations in this dune p. 589 photograph stand along the loess p. 590 shoreline near the small town of Port Campbell, Australia. What natural force created these isolated stone pillars? What evidence of this force can you see in the photograph?

Waves and currents shape shorelines.

NOTE-TAKING STRATEGY The stone pillars, or sea stacks, in the photograph above are a major Remember to organize tourist attraction in Port Campbell National Park. They were formed your notes in a chart or web as you read. by the movement of water. The constant action of waves breaking against the cliffs slowly wore them away, leaving behind pillarlike formations. Waves continue to wear down the pillars and cliffs at the rate of about two centimeters (one inch) a year. In the years to come, the waves will likely wear away the stone pillars completely. The force of waves, powered by wind, can wear away rock and move thousands of tons of sand on beaches. The force of wind itself can change the look of the land. Moving air can pick up sand particles and move them around to build up dunes. Wind can also carry huge amounts of fine sediment thousands of kilometers. In this section, you’ll read more about how waves and wind shape shorelines and a variety of other landforms.

586 Unit 4: Earth’s Surface Shorelines Some shorelines, like the one near Port Campbell, Australia, are made up of steep, rock cliffs. As waves crash against the rock, they wear away the bottom of the cliffs. Eventually,parts of the cliffs above break away and fall into the water, where they are worn down and carried away by the water. While high, rocky coasts get worn away, low coastlines often get built up. As you read earlier, when a stream flows into an ocean or a lake, it deposits its sediment near its mouth. This sediment mixes with the sediment formed by waves beating against the coast. Waves and currents move this sediment along the shore, building up beaches. Two terms are used to describe the movement of sediment and water along a shore: longshore drift and longshore current. • Longshore drift is the zigzag movement of sand along a beach. Waves formed by wind blowing across the water far from shore may hit a shoreline at an angle. These angled waves carry sand up onto the shore, and then gravity pulls the water and sand directly back into the water. The sand gradually moves down the beach. The illustration below shows longshore drift. • A longshore current is movement of water along a shore as waves strike the shore at an angle. The direction of the longshore current can change from day to day as the direction of the waves striking the shore changes. Longshore drift moves large amounts of sand along beaches. It can cause a beach to shrink at one location and grow at another.

Longshore Drift

1 Walls of rock extend out into Incoming waves push sand the ocean at Cape May, New up the beach at an angle. longshore current Jersey. They were built to keep beaches from being lost to longshore drift.

2 The sand washes back straight down the beach.

wave direction

587 Longshore Drift SKILL FOCUS How does sand move along a beach? Observing PROCEDURE

1 Prop up a book as shown. MATERIALS •2 or 3 books 2 Hold a coin with your finger against the bottom right corner of the book. • coin

3 Gently flick the coin up the slope of the book at an angle. The coin should TIME slide back down the book and fall off the bottom. If necessary, readjust the 15 minutes angle of the book and the strength with which you are flicking the coin.

4 Repeat step 3 several times. Observe the path the coin takes. Record your observations. Include a diagram that shows the general path the coin takes as it slides up and down the book.

WHAT DO YOU THINK? • What path did the coin take on its way up? On its way down? • In this model of longshore drift, what represents the beach, what represents the sand, and what represents a wave? CHALLENGE In this model, in which direction will the long- shore current move? How could you change the model to change the direction of the current?

Sandbars and Barrier Islands As they transport sand, ocean waves and currents shape a variety of coastal landforms. Longshore currents, for example, often deposit sand along shorelines. The sand builds up to form sandbars. A sandbar is a ridge of sand built up by the action of waves and currents. A sandbar that has built up above the water’s surface and is joined to the land at one end is called a spit. The tip of Cape Cod, Massachusetts, is a spit. Strong longshore currents that mostly move in one direction may produce sandbars that build up over time into barrier islands. A barrier island is a long, narrow island that develops parallel to a coast.

barrier island

sandbar

1 2 Waves and currents move and build up As more sand is deposited, the sandbar sand deposits to form a sandbar under rises above the surface to become a the water surface. barrier island.

588 Unit 4: Earth’s Surface This lighthouse on a A barrier island gets its name from the fact that it forms a barrier barrier island in North Carolina had to be moved between the ocean waves and the shore of the mainland. As a barrier because of beach erosion. island builds up, grasses, bushes, and trees begin to grow on it. The photograph shows the lighthouse before it Barrier islands are common along gently sloping coasts around the was moved. world. They occur along the coasts of New Jersey and North Carolina and along the coastline of the Gulf of Mexico. Padre Island in Texas is a barrier island about 180 kilometers (110 mi) in length. Barrier islands constantly change shape. Hurricanes or other storms can speed up the change. During large storms, waves can surge across the land, carrying away huge amounts of sediment and depositing it elsewhere. Houses on beaches can be destroyed in storms.

Check Your Reading How and where do barrier islands form?

Wind shapes land. At Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore, not far from the skyscrapers of Chicago, you can tumble or slide down huge sand dunes. First-time visitors to the Indiana dunes find it hard to believe that sand forma- tions like these can be found so far from a desert or an ocean. What created this long stretch of dune land along the southern shore of Lake Michigan? The answer: wind. A dune is a mound of sand built up by wind. Like water, wind has the power to transport and deposit sediment. Although wind is a less powerful force of erosion than moving water, it can still shape landforms, especially in dry regions and in areas that have few or no plants to hold soil in place. Wind can build up dunes, deposit layers of dust, or make a land surface as hard as pavement.

Chapter 17: Erosion and Deposition 589 wind

sand-particle movement

dune movement

Wind makes sand particles build up and tumble down, causing a dune to migrate, or move.

These hills of sand are at the Great Sand Dunes Dune Formation National Monument in Even a light breeze can carry dust. A moderate wind can roll and slide Colorado. grains of sand along a beach or desert, creating ripples. Only a strong wind, however, can actually pick up and carry sand particles. When the wind dies down or hits something—such as a cliff or a hill—it drops the sand. Over time, the deposits of sand build up to create dunes. Some dunes start out as ripples that grow larger. Others form as wind-carried sand settles around a rock, log, or other obstacle. In climates with enough rainfall, plants begin to grow on dunes a short distance from beaches. Dunes form only where there are strong winds and a constant supply of loose sand. They can be found on the inland side of beaches of oceans and large lakes, on the sandy floodplains of large rivers, and in sandy deserts. Dunes can form in a variety of sizes and shapes. They can reach heights of up to 300 meters (about 1000 ft). Some dunes are curved; others are long, straight ridges; still others are mound-shaped hills. A dune usually has a gentle slope on the side that faces the wind and a steeper slope on the side sheltered from the wind.

Loess Besides forming dunes, wind also changes the soil over large regions of Earth by depositing dust. A strong windstorm can move millions of tons of dust. As the wind dies down, the dust drops to the ground. Deposits of fine wind-blown sediment are called loess (LOH-uhs). In some regions, deposits of loess have built up over thousands and even millions of years. Loess is a valuable resource because it forms good soil for growing crops.

590 Unit 4: Earth’s Surface This loess deposit in Iowa built up over many thou- sands of years.

Loess covers about 10 percent of the land surface of Earth. China has especially large deposits of loess, covering hundreds of thousands of square kilometers. Some of the deposits are more than 300 meters (about 1000 ft) thick. Such thick deposits take a long time to develop. Some of the loess deposits in China are 2 million years old. Winds blowing over the deserts and dry regions of central Asia carried the dust that formed these deposits. Parts of east central Europe and the Mississippi Valley in the United States also contain significant loess deposits. In the central United States, loess deposits are between 8 and 30 meters (25 and 100 ft) thick.

Desert Pavement Not only does wind shape land surfaces by depositing dust; it also shapes land surfaces by removing dust. When wind blows away all the smallest particles from a mixture of sand, silt, and gravel, it leaves behind just a layer of stones and gravel. This stony surface is called desert pavement because it looks like a cobblestone pavement. The coarse gravel and rocks are too large to be picked up by wind.

Check Your Reading How are both loess and desert pavement formed Desert pavement is made up of by wind? particles too large to be picked up by wind.

KEY CONCEPTS CRITICAL THINKING CHALLENGE 1. What kinds of landforms do 4. Identify Cause and Effect 6. Hypothesize The south and longshore drift and longshore Is longshore drift the cause or east shores of Lake Michigan currents produce? effect of a longshore current? have large areas of sand 2. How do dunes form? Explain. dunes, but the north and west shores do not. Write a 3. How does loess form, and 5. Predict What effect would a hypothesis that explains why. why is it important? barrier island have on the shoreline of the mainland? You might want to use a map and draw the shape of Lake Michigan to explain.

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