Northland & the Bay of Islands

NORTHLAND & THE BAY OF ISLANDS 155 Islands Poor Knights Bay of Islands Waitangi Waipoua Kauri Forest www.nrc.govt.nz www.nrc.govt.nz Head North Ninety Mile Beach Cape Reinga

Wait- ( p189 ) www.northlandnz.com ( p165 ) Ninety Mile Beach North Head ( p190 ) ( p163 ) ( p172 ) Bay of Islands ( p183 ) Cape Reinga Cape ( p183 ) or the Hokianga’s p183 ( angi Treaty Grounds Treaty angi Waipoua Kauri Forest Poor Knights Islands the many in the sand at any of Northland’s numerous beaches at of the homage to the ancient giants Paying Diving at one of the world’s top spots, the among Claiming your own island paradise at the Delving into history and culture footprints on the Being the first to leave Watching oceans collide while souls depart Surfing the sand dunes at TELEPHONE CODE: 09 09 TELEPHONE CODE:

HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS

Beaches are the main drawcard and they’re present in profusion. Take your pick from surfy in profusion. Take present the main drawcard and they’re Beaches are ancient kauri of the Northland’s the most spectacular remnants forests shelter reserves as well. The history hangs heavily here on offer: It’s not just natural attractions that are For many New Zealanders, the phrase ‘up north’ the phrase family images of up sepia-toned Zealanders, For many New conjures in fun in the sun, pohutukawa It’s uttered in bloom and dolphins frolicking bays. in pretty to work From school playgrounds as if describing a mythical place. almost hallowed tones, a bach (holiday house) ‘up north’ owning is a passportcafeterias, to popularity. golden, grey, and from sand that’s or minuscule, fashionable or forgotten, massive or sheltered, to all sorts beaches suited of aquatic pursuits imaginable, are There pink or blindingly white. flummoxed crowded countries are from more in the nuddy. Visitors including splashing about being in sight. or another human without a scrap of development to wander onto beaches an awe-inspiring are trees giant remaining the top of the country. The that once blanketed treasures. sight and one of the nation’s migrations from Polynesia and a successive country was colonised from the top down by Bay of to this day, adding an extra to any visit. The dimension remains strong Maori presence settlement, as well as the signing of permanent European of the first Islands was also the site in 1835 and the Treaty by local chiefs Zealand the Declaration of the Independence of New Northland is unquestionably the birthplace of the nation. years later. five of Waitangi Northland & the Bay ofIslands www.lonelyplanet.com

BAY OF ISLANDS OF BAY NORTHLAND & THE THE & NORTHLAND ὈὈ NORTHLAND & THE BAY OF ISLANDS pealn weather. prevailing direction onyourinterests based andthe the eastcoast,but youshould your choose with loop,starting follows ananticlockwise ing SH1nearKaikohe. Thischapter roughly west coasttotheHokiangabefore rejoin- branches atBrynderwynandfollowsthe off SH1 ontheeastcoast,andSH12, which There are twomainroutes headingnorth: Getting There&Around coast. east warmer thanAuckland,especiallyonthe ter. Temperatures are often adegree ortwo days permonthinsummerbut16win- The ‘winterless north’averages rainy seven 156 Climate Map (p180) See TheFarNorth NORTHLAND Reinga Cape ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ OTLN H A FILNS • lmt &THEBAYNORTHLAND OFISLANDS••Climate Te Paki Ὀ Peninsula Ninety Mile Aupouri Warawara Forest Waitiki Landing Beach ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ Coastal TrampingTrack 1F Hokianga Harbour Te Kao Hokianga KaiIwi T ASMN Ahipara Herekino Ngataki S EA Exhibition Awanui Maunganui Bluff(460m) Mitimiti Pukenui Rangiputa ᝲᝲ ᝲ Kaitaia Great Bay Kawerua Reserve Omapere Opononi Panguru Kawerua Mangamuka Kai Iwi 1 Lakes Taipa Doubtless Kohukohu Rawene Bridge Whatuwhiwhi ᝲᝲ Bay Coopers Matai Beach Waima Beach Karikari Peninsula Waimamaku Matai Bay Baylys Beach Mangonui Ripiro OceanBeach Hihi

Whangaroa

Kahoe 12 Kauri Coast Kauri Omahuta Horeke Puketi Forest Forest Wairere Kauri Forest Waipoua Taheke Glinks Gully Kauri Park Trounson Kaikohe

Ma Kaeo Kaihu Tangowahine Whangaroa Waimate ᝲᝲ

Maropiu Harbour nga North 12 to Auckland(inthat direction only)viathe

fare ($55, four buses weekly) allowsyouto fare weekly) ($55,fourbuses Hokianga andKauri CoastonSH12.The fixed .magicbus.co.nz) The the HokiangaandWaipouaKauri Forest. Dargaville (sixservices per week). heading fromAucklandalongSH12 asfar Coachline withonly Other areas are poorlyserved, plySH1fromAucklandto Kaitaia.buses ( but trainservice, has nopassenger Auckland tointernational Northland flights. domestic airports,connectingthrough

Bay Tauranga

ka Wairoa 10 Only tourist buses head to Cape Reinga, headtoCape Only touristbuses hia

Whangarei, Kerikeri andKaitaia allhave Ruapekapeka Pa Dargaville 09-623 1503;www.intercity.co.nz) River Springs Ngawha Magic Travellers Network Travellers Magic Waitangi Map (p166) See BayofIslands Matauri Bay North Head Maungatapere Lighthouse

R Kerikeri

Wreck oftheRainbowWarrior

Cavalli Islands Kaipara v Ruawai ᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ

( Harbour 14 % Kaipara Wair Paparoa Whakapara Kawakawa Ὀ ua Paihia has a useful service fromPaihia service hasauseful Whangarei Heads Russell Maunu 09-278 8070;www.maincoachline.co.nz) Matakohe Islands Bay of 1 Point Pouto Parua Bay Rv McLeod Bay P ACIF 0 0 O CEAN Port Albert S OUTH Tinopai WHANGAREI Ruakaka Hikurangi 12 Waipu ᝲ Helena Uretiti Bay Forest Brett Cape Brynderwyn Dome Whangarei Airport 1 Kaiwaka Warkworth CoastalPark Mimiwhangata Tomarata Bay Bream Sandy Bay Whananaki Waipu Cove ( Ngunguru Bay

Wellsford Matapouri Ngunguru Pataua % Langs Beach Tutukaka Mt Manaia(419m) Mangawhai lonelyplanet.com Peach Bream Head Cove Mangawhai Heads Ocean Beach and associated Pakiri 09-358 5600;www Hen &Chicken Pakiri Beach Sandspit Islands Islands Poor Knights Beach Omaha InterCity Leigh 30 miles 50 km Island Goat Main

lonelyplanet.com holidays, but despite therollers it’snot espe- weekends insummer anddailyduring school beach atitsnortherntip.Life-savers patrolon sits anuncomplicated holiday townwithasurf Acrossthewater sanctuary. sheltering aseabird stretches forkilometres to formthesouthhead, hold. takes 5km furtheron,thattheenchantment really harbour.shoe Butit’satMangawhai Heads, Mangawhai of Village at the base ahorse- east (there’s nobus)willtake youtosnug SH1atKaiwaka,lie. Leaving a13kmdrive andsuch road signsays, signsdon’ttend to Magical Mangawhai –that’swhattheofficial Pop 1200 MANGAWHAI spots. diving Islands are considered oneof theworld’stop immediately. Theneighbouring PoorKnights andheadtoTutukaka fanatic, dropeverything where your footprintsare the only ones. it’s possibletofindisolated stretches of sand holidaymakers then atpeaktimes,buteven thehotspotsheaveConsequently withKiwi clear- after for swimming,surfingorjustsplashingabout. Beach wet. get watered beach offers munificentopportunities to prepared be To trulyexperiencethisarea youhave to p714. see services, tourist andhop-on,hop-off discounts, passes onbackpacker busoptions.Fordetails tailed like. you stop anywhere alongtheroute, asoften as WAGRI DISTRICT WHANGAREI A narrowspitof powderywhite sand If you’re reading thisandyou’re adiving theendof forde- each townsection See Tokerau Tourism catering totravellers are ownedorrunbyMaoriindividuals ( Crossings Hokianga p190 Tai-a-Mai), Waka ( p172 ) andCulture ( North p172 ). Manybusinesses ( p183 ) andTane ( Mahuta p191 ). tail ofthefishMaui(seeboxed text, p56 ). it’s aplacewhere Inmythologytheregion youmighthearMaoribeingspoken. isknownasthe today hasoneofthecountry’shighestpercentagesMaoripeople. AlongwiththeEastCoast, region,The Northland knowntoMaoriasTe Tai hasalongandproudMaorihistory Tokerau, MAORI NZ: NORTHLAND &THEBAY OFISLANDS are reviewed inthischapter. Highly recommendedHighly Maoriculturalexperiencesare offered byFootprintsWaipoua( p189 ), significanceincludetheWaitangiMaori sites Treaty ofparticular Grounds( p172 ), Cape Reinga WHANGAREI DISTRICT ••Mangawhai WHANGAREI DISTRICT

(www.taitokerau.co.nz) listsdozens ofthemonitswebsite, andmanyofthem next tofull-time information panels. 10am-4pmSat,10am-1pmSun) 5pm Fri, tion centre to liftthe werein the1850s.Ceremonies only performed rewarded withlandtitlesbythegovernment Britishtaboo). squatters moved inandwere Whatua andthedistrictbecame ensuing bloodbathallbutannihilated Ngati with muskets fromEuropeans. The obtained Hongi Hika,whoin1825returned, armed escape. Oneof themwas letting thesurvivors Ngapuhi fromthenorthinamajor battle, dominant. In1807NgatiWhatuadefeated fore the1660s, whenNgatiWhatuabecame tensive viewsof sea and land. (three hours return) here, ex- starts affording cially dangerous. The Mangawhai Heads hasapart-time Various Maori tribesinhabited thearea be- Waipoua ( p189 ) that putAhiparaonthemap Go green ( Kingdom p184 ) Tackiest tourist attraction Festival Swim at Watch Listen to Read Drink Eat ISLANDS FACTS NORTHLAND &THEBAY OF fame ( p192 ) ( p176) bolt’s novel set during the Northland War the Northland bolt’s novelsetduring Kumara,Dargaville’sknobblypurpleclaimto

The HouseofStrife Orange juice, Kerikeri’s signature squeeze Orangejuice,Kerikeri’s

The EndlessSummer

(www.mangawhai.co.nz; Molesworth Dr; (www.mangawhai.co.nz; Molesworth tapu WaitangiDay( p171 ) The Mermaid Pool, Matapouri ( Pool,Matapouri TheMermaid p163 )

Treaty Sing to the trees with Footprints Singtothetrees withFootprints in the 1990s. hapu (1998)byMoana&theMoahunters (subtribal)groups. (1993), Maurice Shad- (1993),Maurice Mangawhai Cliffs Walkway Cliffs Mangawhai (1966), the surf classic (1966),thesurf Ancient Kauri AncientKauri in aprefab shed tapu (sacred, informa- Tai Tai h 157

BAY OF ISLANDS ISLANDS OF BAY NORTHLAND & THE THE & NORTHLAND NORTHLAND & THE BAY OF ISLANDS 1pm Sat) from Scotlandvia Nova Scotia(Canada) between 1853 and 1860. These dour Scots 1853and 1860.These between Cove thatasitmay, Be their product’sbrandnamefortheNZ market. a goldenopportunitybyfailingtoadopt itas name ‘ Waipu’; themakers of Imodium missed ofGenerations Kiwikidshave over giggled the pop 1980 WAIPU &BREAMBAY farmers market over an ice-cold beer. place tochat aboutthebreak thatgotaway endofAt thetail aday’ssurfingthisisthe almost-religious experienceinmanyadiner. and-pepper squid,adish thatprovokes an eatery thattakes justifiedprideinitssalt- $12-27, dinner$19-30; perfect wraparound veranda. furnished roomshave access tothepicture- great views.Thevery smartly comfortable, pi 5311; www.seaviewlodge.co.nz; 4HeatherSt;s/d$150/175; croquet and uptofour).Free(sleeping videos,kayaks, cottages tropical gardensandself-contained conjure aPasifika withtheirlush paradise cottages.co.nz; 27MoirPtRd;cottages$120-225; clean and simple. themed decorative touches. Theroomsare $23/56/56; Dr;dm/d/tw 299Molesworth .mangawhaibackpackers.com; stay. in the café. (open 9amto5.30pm),anddeliciousdelifood vibrant ceramicsandglassware inthegallery live musicinthebar(open10amtilllate), a funkycomboonthevillage, withoccasional mains $9-17; ( including wineand olive oil. hall, andstockuponlocalorganic produce market artefacts. Combineitwithatriptothe Museum District 158 % Milestone Cottages Milestone &Gallery Bar,Restaurant Smashed PipiCafé, In Mangawhai Village, the The original940 British came settlers On Sundaysit’stheHeads’ turnforthe The boutique Sail Rock Café Sail RockCafé Mangawhai Heads iswhere you’llwantto 09-431 4849;www.smashedpipi.co.nz; 40MoirSt; are bonny places. wee HNAE ITIT • ap ra a ••Waipu&Bream Bay WHANGAREI DISTRICT Coastal Cow Backpackers Coastal CowBackpackers

hasatinydisplayof andMaori settler ) ( hasacommandingpositionand h p h 9am-1pm Sat) ) isahomelyhostel withcow- pétanque breakfast &lunchdaily,dinnerThu-Sun)

(Wood St;

(Moir St;adult/child$2/1; ( % Mangawhai LodgeB&B Mangawhai Waipu h 09-431 4051;12aWoodSt;brunch (

% , nextdoorinthelibrary 9am-late) h are available. andneighbouring 09-431 4018;www.milestone 10am-2pm). ( % isawonderful 09-431 5444;www Mangawhai Mangawhai h ( %

10.30am- ps farmer’s 09-431 Waipu Waipu is

) $8/3; kayak orrowingboattocrossthesaltwater amodated unitsandcanuse inseparate built of huge stoneslabs. Guestsare accom- Waipu isthisuniqueCornish-style house WaipuCoveOn themainroadbetween and .co.nz; 641CoveRd;dm/s/d/tr/q$20/110/120/150/180; Stonehouse Sleeping and thegay party crowd. Kiwi families,hardcore Europeannudists regular splitbetween with thecrowdevenly New Year’s Eve celebrationshere are ablast, is officiallydesignated as‘clothingoptional’. campsite (DOC) Conservation stretch of beach nearasuper oil refinery atthenorthend.At beach, byagiant blighted onlyslightly 1871, take placein Park.Caledonian .highlandgames.co.nz; adult/child$15/5) when the a bigget-together on1January year, every residents are direct descendants,butthere’s Museum film andinteractive displaysatthe comes tolife holograms,ashort through tled, forsunniernorthernclimes.Theirstory whereOtago, somanyof theirkindred set- toeschew frigid at leasthadthegoodsense b arrangement. by gardens tocreate breakfast orothermeals lient hostwhoraids herextensive organic Bream stylish furnishings Bay, andanebul- Waipu, Waihoihoi hassuperbviewsover with aruralambience,3kminland from 160; .waihoihoi.co.nz; Rd;s$75-140,d&tw$105- 239Massey with spotless facilities. is alarge campingground andcomfortable p waipucove.com; StAnneRd;campsites$28, cabins$50-200; home –withfree fruit in season. Waipu township – a real homeawayfrom andfriendlybackpackersat thisbright in $23/45/60/60; Rd;dm/s/d/[email protected]; 25StMarys to brave an toilet. outhouse packers loft isacutesy attic,butyou’llhave lagoon andget totheoceanbeach. Theback- o WaipuCove Camp Backpackers Waipu Wanderers Bay Bream ) pi Taking up afairchunk of beach, this h

9.30am-4.30pm) ( % Waihoihoi Lodge ) Awonderfulwomen-onlyretreat Highland Games Highland p ( % hasmilesof blissfully deserted 09-432 0746;36TheCentre; adult/child ) There are onlythree rooms 09-432 0432;www.stonehousewaipu Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

( . Only10%of current % 09-432 0410;www.camp

(SH1; adult/child$7/3.50)

( ( % % , established in 09-432 1234;www 09-432 1514;www

( % Department of Department 09-432 0532; Uretiti Waipu p , a

) a ‘sweet as’proposition,asthesurfera ‘sweet dude made toorderandbeach viewsaddupto and chips, freshplatters, sandwiches seafood 17; Café Cove Eating lonelyplanet.com Automobile Association Automobile ably different fromthe Kiwi average. ofthe standard coiffure or carisn’tnotice- of hairdressers andparking lots–although The citycentre hasaninordinate number off’-ness of the bars onaSaturdaynight. ing choice of eateries andthegeneral ‘going bytheinterest- surprised may bepleasantly you distracted inNorthland’sgateway. You tractive naturalandartisticthingstokeep far awayandtherenever are plentyof at- sits somewhere inthemiddle. Butbeautyis On thepretty-to-ugly continuum Whangarei pop 45,800 WHANGAREI daily tripstoAuckland and Whangarei. bus.com) hour). Budget operator ($24, 35minutes) viaWarkworth($24,one Auckland ($27,twohours) andWhangarei 999; www.pavlovichexpress.co.nz) ($22, 1½hours). Whangarei ($21,30minutes) viaWarkworth the wayfromAuckland($34,2¼hours) to stophereand associated dailybuses on Waipu,38kmsouth through of Whangarei. SH1heads Otherwise Beach. Langs through scenic route headingfromMangawhai Heads Waipu Cove canbereached byaparticularly Getting There&Away into a bar. asthiscoolplacemorphswith coldbeer and hunger-assuaging pizzasthatgowell logo. Italsohaspopularplatters, fare light thepizzaplacehasatartan In Waipueven $14-22; brownies’. fudge check outthiscute littledeliwith‘serious & Sun) Waipu; mains$10-14; behind thecounter isprone to say. James St; Information InterCity Pizza Barn Waipu Café/Deli h Self-caterers andcoffee houndsshould Self-caterers 11am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8.30pmSat&Sun) 11am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, h hasadvancefares from$1on starting h

( % 11.30am-late Wed-SunApr-Nov,dailyDec-Mar) 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri)

( ( 09-432 0323;CoveRd,WaipuCove;mains$6- % % WHANGAREI DISTRICT ••Whangarei WHANGAREI DISTRICT 09-623 1503;www.intercity.co.nz) 09-432 1011;2CoveRd,Waipu;mains

h Pavlovich Express Pavlovich ( % 8am-4pm Tue-Fri, 9am-4pmSat 8am-4pm Tue-Fri, (AA; 09-432 0990;29TheCentre, heads daily between headsdailybetween Naked Bus Naked % 09-438 4848;17

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149 BankSt; internet access($5 per hour). 9.30am-4.30pm Sat&Sun)Information,café,toiletsand Rd/SH1; reinz.com; 92Otaika doned quarries thathave converted been into centre thatincludestwo Reserve over a300m-longtimber truss bridge. mangrove through and passes swampsand old railwayembankment.Ittakes 1½hours Walkway cessible by car. the lookoutattop,which isequallyac- The cityisspread outforinspectionfrom (241m) andamajor encompassing the remnants of avolcaniccone upin high the treetops. designedboardwalk that includesacleverly Park Along thewayyou’llpass tothefalls(threeTown Basin hours return). The descriptions of someexcellentlocal tracks. able fromthei-SITE,hasmapsanddetailed only), leaving Stin fromRose the city. the Tikipunga bus($2,MondaytoSaturday lavabasalt flow.Thefallscanbereached on the water cascadingover theedge of anold photographed. Short walksprovide viewsof the mostimpressive butreputedly themost are theParis Hiltonof NZwaterfalls –not hire head torches ($3). Lodge ( p161 ) youcanborrowhelmetsand you’re atneighbouring LittleEarth staying a forest of crazilyshaped rockextrusions.If pare is toget wet. Thesurroundingreserve here aloneifthingsgopear-shaped) andpre- a mate (youwouldn’twanttobestuckdown east of town.Grab and atorch, strongshoes glowworms andlimestoneformations,4km networkofdeveloped three caverns fullof Abbey Caves The budget traveller’s answertoWaitomo, Sights &Activities i-SITE Whangarei Quay Info Post Office DOC visitorcentre Housed inClapham’sClocks;internetaccessis$4 per hour. Other tracks head through Other trackshead through Southeast of Whangarei, the Longer tracksheadthrough The free The 26m-high , where you cantake a35-minute detour Hatea River Walk River Hatea , an expanse of, anexpanse bushjust westof the inOnerahiisaneasytrek alongan ( (16-20 Rathbone St) (16-20Rathbone % h

(Abbey CavesRd;admissionfree) Whangarei Walks 09-438 3993;TownBasin; 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) ( % ( % Whangarei FallsWhangarei 09-438 1079;www.whanga followstheriver fromthe 09-430 2470;www.doc.govt.nz; pa h (fortifiedvillage) site. 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, pa sites andaban- brochure, avail- Coronation Scenic Parihaka Reserve Parihaka AH Reed Kauri Kauri AH Reed

h Waimahanga Waimahanga (Ngunguru Rd) isanun- 9am-5pm) 159

, BAY OF ISLANDS ISLANDS OF BAY NORTHLAND & THE THE & NORTHLAND NORTHLAND & THE BAY OF ISLANDS triguing sculpture formedfrom10 large poles atraditional Maoriuses form tocreate anin- thisandthelibrary, building. Between hibits localartists inawonderfulArtDeco www.apt.org.nz; 7RustAve; and co-operative galleries. 4.30pm) .thequarry.co.nz; Ave; 21Selwyn admissionfree; the reserve, of positive energy. Ontheothersideof the floral aromas,wildbits,orderlybits andlots blissful parkwithalake, waterfalls, pungent Russell Rd;admissionbydonation; ( volunteers have transformed inspiring communityprojects. Green-fingered 160 % (5km); Dargaville(56km) Bird RecoveryCentre House (5km);Native To Museum&Kiwi Coronation K Bordeaux (300m) Lodge (300m); To Pohutukawa Reserve WHANGAREI

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Parihaka 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 v e Reserve B3 B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 C2 includes a chance to see NorthIslandbrown includes achance tosee Woof, the tui. talking injured birdsbacktohealth.SayhiWoof SH14; adult/child$10/5; tion of 1400ticking,gongingandcuckoo- than itsounds.Thismind-boggling collec- child $8/4; havemight you murderously agitated. the‘restful’plants andcacti,although music Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels critters includeminiature horses Tomand and amaximumof tworoommates. Resident proper cosybedwith nicelinen,comfypillows downina with nastyspongy bunks:settle furnishings. Forget dormroomscrammed is brimmingwithinteresting artand Balinese nexttoAbbeyright Caves ( p159 ), theplace the rest. onafarm4kmfrom townand Set spoilyouforall might hostels, LittleEarth $26/49/58/58/78; 85AbbeyCavesRd;dm/s/d/tw/tr .littleearthlodge.co.nz; bush to glowworms. cue area, the andashortwalkleadsthrough river. There’s anicecovered deckandbarbe- of roomsonaquiethillsideoverlooking the small, easy-going hostel hasonlyahandful 52 Punga GroveAve; dm/d/tw$24/60/60; games aid socialising. and Kiwianagarden.Biglounges andboard phere inthislovely oldvillawithanaviary There’s wornbuthomelyatmos- aslightly Rd;dm$20-22,s/tw/d$45/48/50; lodge.co.nz; 23Otaika super-shiny surfaces. stainless-steel owners, abetter-than-average of set unitsand $50-110; .whangareitop10.co.nz; St;sitesperperson$15,units 24Mair Top10HolidayParkWhangarei BUDGET Sleeping Thu, noon-4.30pmMon&Fri) .org.nz; admissionbydonation; Centre artefacts, includingsuperb feather cloaks. ings andanimpressive collectionof Maori kiwi, averitable village of 19th-centurybuild- House to Dargaville atMaunu, isthe Museum. Clock ing timepiecesconstitutes theNational Clapham’s Clocks o YHA Manaakitanga isthe themuseum Beside Bunkdown Lodge West of Whangarei, 5kmoutontheroad

( ( % % pi h 09-438 9630;www.whangareimuseum.co.nz; 4 09-438 1457;www.whangareinativebirdrecovery Little Earth Lodge Little Earth 9am-5pm) ) Thisholidayparkhasfriendly pi

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( ( % % 10.30am-4.30pm Tue- Native Bird Recovery BirdRecovery Native WHANGAREI DISTRICT ••Whangarei WHANGAREI DISTRICT . Thecomplex 09-430 6562;www 09-437 6856;www Museum & Kiwi &Kiwi Museum pi ) This p

) pis Dr;units$185-300;bordeaux.co.nz; 361WesternHills Kensington; meals$28-34; Kensington; such astuna inforsome deliciousfreshand settle dishes booths scoopedoutof darkchocolate leather foraboozylunch. Graboneofsetting the brunch $15-25,dinner$23-32; ($8). cheese rellenos is genuinely Cuban.Trythedelicious may wearsillyhatsandsay 19; Havana Cubana RESTAURANTS Eating and excellent wines available. kitchens andbathrooms,private balconies Lodge Bordeauxhastasteful unitswithstellar super-schmick motel andanapartmenthotel, looking gas oven. ultramodernandantique- the simultaneously anything wrongwiththat!).Foodieswilllove ing off riceandcannedcorn(notthatthere’s teenagershostel butwithouttheGerman liv- giving thissmartplacethesociabilityof a rooms openontoashared kitchen andlounge, .co.nz; 63HateaDr;units$130; facilities and ample parking. furnished placehas14unitswithwell-kept Just westof nicely town,thisstraightforward, Dr; units$110-190; walodge.co.nz; 362Western Hills hosts andthepriceare very nice indeed. a private butnoten-suite bathroom.Boththe andacheaper optionwith fully self-contained as this.Thethree roomsincludeonethat’s some floralfripperyinaVictorianvillaascute 83 HateaDr;d&tw$75-115; Chelsea House MIDRANGE &TOPEND of privacy with asense and space. well-kept B&Bisaregular suburbanhome s/d $55/75; charming Kiwi/Japanese hosts. fair-trade organic espresso ($2.50)fromthe toherbsfromthegardenorordera yourself Jerry, andthelovable pooch Muttley.Help o Lodge Bordeaux Lodge Pohutukawa Punga LodgeB&B Salut Bar&Brasserie Planet Pilgrim h 11am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9.30pmSat) 11am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, , acoldentréeof chilli with stuffed p ) à Deco Sittingsomewhere a between ) (

JustdownfromtheYHA, this % carpaccio ( %

( 09-437 7115;www.chelsea-house.co.nz; % 09-430 8500;7RustAve; mains$13- ( (

% % ( ( h

09-459 1099;www.pilgrimplanet % %

09-438 3879;9Punga GroveAve; 09-459 4957; 70 Kamo Rd, 09-459 4957;70Kamo ( % ($18). salad h dinner Tue-Sat) p 09-438 0404;www.lodge 09-430 8634;www.pohutuka pi 09-430 8080;69BankSt; lunch &dinner) ) Youcanforgive ‘hola’ ) Northland’s Upmarket butthefood The staff Thestaff Agrand chillies pi 161

)

BAY OF ISLANDS ISLANDS OF BAY NORTHLAND & THE THE & NORTHLAND NORTHLAND & THE BAY OF ISLANDS with white wallsandsupersized flowerpho- h budget supermarket. 8am-8pmSat&Sun) Mon-Fri, sink a ship. basketchippie ($8)thatcould withaseafood h Stumpy’s QUICK EATS &SELF-CATERING by live music on Thursdays. Dishes are wellpresented andaccompanied on thebackof oldLPs atthisquirkycafé/bar. to remember them,themenusare delivered 9am-lateSat&Sun) Fri, $10-19, dinner$26-34; ($16). mascarpone toasted brioche withpoached pearandvanilla and interesting breakfasts. TrytheFrench- tography, thischic cafédishesupgreat coffee h berry andlemonhotcake ($14). stack Breakfast couldn’tbesweeter thantheblack- views fromthebackof afabulousoldbuilding. chilled-out grooves staff, andurban tattooed hasstrongfair-tradecool, Nectar coffee, hip from something delectable the cabinet. yet relatively reasonably priced,caféandorder moulded white-plastic chairs atthisstylish, h here for. Nicebrekkies andcafé snacks too. prize forguessingwhattheregular junkiesare h Nice one, Bob. like inthebigbreakfast. theKranskysausages – that fancyproducespicesupthestandards All Deli?Café? would youdescribeyourself? 17; Bob CAFÉS marine-style villawith original fixtures. adore –awonderfullycurvaceous thesetting of horopitoandmanuka. ArtDecofanswill andthenative potato) flavoursmara (sweet mushrooms, Kaipara flounder,Dargaville ku- Northland scallops,Tutukakatuna,Waimate that prominentlyfeatures localproduce: best restaurant, withaninventive menu 162 Caffeine Vinyl Fresh Nectar Pak NSave Deluca Café h 7am-2.30pm Mon-Fri, 7am-1.30pmSat&Sun) 7am-2.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Mon-Thu, 10am-8pmFri-Sun) 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pmSat) 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 7.45am-6.30pm Mon-Sat) 7am-3pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pmSat) 7am-3pm Mon-Fri,

( % HNAE ITIT • hnae ••Whangarei WHANGAREI DISTRICT breakfast &lunch)

(

09-438 0881;29BankSt;breakfast $6-16,lunch$15- %

( ( % % (

% ( 09-438 8105; cnr Riverside Dr&Vale09-438 8105;cnrRiverside Rd;brunch %

( 09-438 2921;12JamesSt;meals$8-20; 09-438 1775; 121 Riverside Dr;meals$3-8; 09-438 1775;121Riverside

% ( 09-438 8084;88BankSt;meals$6-18; % 09-438 6925;4WaterSt;meals$6-17; 09-438 1488;CarruthSt; For those old or hip enough oldorhipenough Forthose 09-438 7154;6RustAve; mains$6-17; h Hey Bob,nicecoffee. How 5.30pm-late Tue-Thu, 11.30am-late ThebigKiwi-owned Sinkintooneof the Fresh asadaisy Oozingboho Alegendary There’s no h 8am-9pm music (tradIrish, rockand jam sessions). Lovers& Lager andlive Society),quiznights old-world décor. It’sthehomeof BALLS (Beer spot forfunkyMaori andPasifika design, h ($109, twice weekly). Island Greatbarrierairlines.co.nz) Barrier FliestoClaris, website forfares and special offers. toninedaily);check Flies toAuckland(35minutes, seven James St; Kathmandu Shopping blockbusters. mission $7-13; morning. Sunday hours toqueueinthewee ofbarn. Expect at thispopularandpopulistwood-clad packed-out scrumof boozehagsandhogs band beltsout‘LivingonaPrayer’tothe find yourself screaming alongasthecovers outside. spills the hours dissolve, DJskickinandthecrowd As beamsandso-cool-it-hurtsstaff. exposed this atmosphericwinebarhasoldstonewalls, h late) board gamesforpatrons to play. great chemical-free gardenand beers, abeer late) Brauhaus Frings Drinking &Entertainment Great Barrier Airlines Barrier Great Air NewZealand six onweekdays, buses on Saturdays). the airport,headingintocity ($2,11 cost around$17.Apublicbusroute skirts the centre. Taxis orshuttles intotownboth St) Handforth port.co.nz; Airport Whangarei AIR Getting There&Around eclectica, fromRubik’scubesto literature. residence. in art andcraft.Dropinwatch theartist tents to plug adapters. travel supplieschain, from everything selling Sun) Classics Tuatara Danger! Factory Butter McMorrissey’s Sky CityCinemas Abetter-than-average Irish pubwithcosy 4pm-late Wed-Sat) 10.30am-very late) Thispopularmicrobrewery has a range of Abranch of theexcellentoutdoorand h

( ( %

9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pmSat,10am-3pm 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, % ( % h 09-430 8867;41BankSt) 09-430 0121;29BankSt)

(

( 09-438 7193; www.kathmandu.co.nz; 22 09-438 7193;www.kathmandu.co.nz; % 10.30am-9pm)

( ( % % %

( Tucked awayinabacklane, %

Be very afraid:youmay Be isatOnerahi,6kmeastof ( 09-438 4664;104DentSt;

% ( 0800 737000;www.airnz.co.nz) 09-430 8081;7VineSt; 09-430 0044;8ButterFactory Lane; ( % % 09-436 0047;www.whangareiair 09-470 1940;18JamesSt;ad- 0800 900600;www.great 09-459 7461;37VineSt; Screens the latest lonelyplanet.com Interesting Aprimo h h noon- 10am- associated daily buses stophereassociated dailybuses ontheway Dargaville Shuttle Dargaville Centre stopoutsidethe Buses BUS Sunair Aviation Ltd lonelyplanet.com the beach insummer. Adetourfrom Parua decent surfingtobe hadandlifeguards patrol on theotherside of thepeninsula. There’s legs. smaller brochure ($1)gives optionstobreak thisinto Peach Cove Head ScenicReserve the through passes toOceanBeach Bay hour one-waywalkingtrackfromUrquharts busting 1½-hour climb. butprepare Bay, McLeod foralung- and leg- Manaia water-hugging small settlements. B&Bs andgalleriesare dotted aroundthe pohutukawa-lined bays.Holidayhomes, trance, passing mangroves andpicturesque northern reaches of theharbourtoitsen- Whangarei Heads Rdwinds35kmalongthe WHANGAREI HEADS Cabs Phoenix Cabs Carlton Kiwi A1 Cabs TAXI Cove (enquire at the i-SITE). andWaipu toOceanBeach special services ( p159 ) andtheairport.Insummerthere are St.UsefulRose routes headtoWhangarei Falls $10/16) hour). (one trips toAuckland(three hours) viaWaipu has advancefares from$1ondaily starting Budget operator ($27, 3¼hours) viaWaipu($24,35minutes). .pavlovichexpress.co.nz) utes). ($25, 70minutes) viaWaipu($21,30min- from Auckland($38,2½hours) toPaihia here. service 8.30am-2.30pm Sat&Sun) Direct flightsonweekdaystoHamilton($290, Direct one hour). Magnificent Head Bream leaveLocal buses fromacrossthesquare on A private operatorrunsa There are great viewsfromthetopof InterCity on weekdays.

( (419m),asheer rockoutcropabove ( Pavlovich Express Pavlovich % % . DOC’s . DOC’s 09-438 3206;3BankSt;

( 0800 4383377) % ( % capsoff thefinger of land.Afive- 09-623 1503;www.intercity.co.nz) Ocean Beach WHANGAREI DISTRICT ••Whangarei Heads WHANGAREI DISTRICT ( 0800 4389933) (

% % ( Naked Bus Naked andlovely headsdailytoAuckland % Whangarei District Walks 09-470 2299) . There’s aleft-luggage 07-575 7799;www.sunair.co.nz) 021 380187;oneway/return Northland Coach & Travel Coach&Travel Northland

( % stretches for miles

h (www.nakedbus.com) 0800 759999;www Smugglers Bay 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, Whangarei-to- Bream Bream and and Mt

mains $14-25; Northland’s premiere surfbeaches, comes ofsublime wideexpanse sands ofsands land, poppingout10kmlater atthegolden boats. game-fishing marina bustlingwithyachts, dive crews and campsite glorious beaches andtheOtamure Bay the coastat ing off from this roaddoublesbacknorthto back tojoinSH1at Hikurangi.Abranch lead- held here insummer. Theroadthen loops into view.Long-boarding competitionsare along therocksforabout 10 minutes. andclamber ing holeintherock,turnright anunlikelyit; followthetrackthrough look- toreachthe tide. It’s aneffort butwellworth water flushedoutby pool withcrystal-clear magnificent thelonggrassto a signpointsthrough river. lage of for 26km,you’llfirst vil- cometothesweet have sunknearbyfordivers been to explore. text, p164 ), twodecommissioned navy ships theboxedthe naturalunderwater scenery(see yourstomach toexplode.cause Apartfrom feast followedbyawafer-thin mintthatmight your appetite, divingatthe isthe Poor Knights If ( Goat IslandMarine Reserve p153 ) whetted KNIGHTS ISLANDS TUTUKAKA COAST&THEPOOR ture beyond Onerahi,soyou’llneed a car. a decent pub meal. onthedeck,acoldbeverage and Grab aseat hutukawa blazingred againstthegreen water. on athumb-shaped peninsula,withasolepo- Bay Tavern wooden interiors, aspabathand free kayaks. slice of beachfront There paradise. are warmly wherehouse thelawnterminates atasecluded $290-380; .breakawayretreat.co.nz; 1856Whangarei HeadsRd;house down to a surfbeach by a footbridge. tlement thatliesonashallow inletlinked to takes you toglorious Bay Continuing northfromMatapouri, the Following theroadnortheastof Whangarei take thelongleafydrive Bay, At McLeod From Tutukaka the road heads slightly in- From Tutukakatheroadheadsslightly Whangarei’s ven- publictransportdoesn’t A magicalspotonasummer’sday, Tutukaka Ngunguru

p (adult/child $7/3.50) Breakaway Retreat Breakaway Matapouri

( h % ) , a semidetached two-bedroom, asemidetached Whananaki Mermaid Pool Mermaid 11.30am-late) 09-436 5856;1034Whangarei HeadsRd; isakilometre furtheron,its nearthemouthof abroad . Atthebeach’s northend , where there are more . is a friendly pub set isafriendlypubset , a deep naturalrock , adeep

( Sandy Bay % Pataua 09-434 0711;www , asmallset- , oneof

Parua Parua 163

DOC

BAY OF ISLANDS ISLANDS OF BAY NORTHLAND & THE THE & NORTHLAND NORTHLAND & THE BAY OF ISLANDS complex, notfar from themarina. Facilities the giantmarlinat thegate of thiswell-kept lre catamaran. large day trip with2dives&equipment$190) day trip $90-150) of four to eight. kaka-holidaypark.co.nz; Matapouri Rd, Tutukaka; sitesper Rd,Tutukaka; Matapouri kaka-holidaypark.co.nz; in good condition. are andcommunalareas cleanandbright, are adult/child $14/6,dm$25, cabins$50-100; HolidayPark Tutukaka including dives.night mum of sixpeople)forexperienceddivers, in overnight trips(onetothree maxi- nights, blue.co.nz; inclequipment$199-1279) trips Charters Hideaway 4.15pm. at departat11am,returning Cruises fur seals. (usually), andoccasionallywhales,orcas encounters withdolphinsandrare seabirds limestonecavesthrough andarches, andclose kayaking the middleof themarinereserve, and snacks,snorkelling fromaplatformin lunch($119) which includesacommentary, much-raved-about ($595). Perhaps thejewelinitscrownis the including afive-day PADI open-water course fers avarietyof dive courses andexcursions, awards.Itof- business andenvironmental operator, winningahuge arrayof tourism, Rd; Marina first-timers and experts. Dive tripsleave from Tutukaka andcater for Activities 164 Sleeping Oceanblue Adventures Another experiencedoperatoris Yukon Dive Tutukaka Dive! flora, suchasthePoorKnightsred lily. only dotuataraandButler’sshearwater breed there, butthere are uniquespeciesoffaunaand today thepublicisbannedfromislands,inordertoprotect theirpristineenvironment.Not massacre intheearly1800sislandshavesince araiding-party been underwater vegetation. Mantaraysareof spongesandcolourful common. bottom, andare alabyrinthofarchways,caves, tunnelsandfissures awidevariety thatattract sediment orpollutionproblems. The 40mto60munderwater cliffs dropsteeply tothesandy tropical fishnotseeninothercoastalwaters are here. observed The waters are clear,withno islands are bathedinasubtropicalcurrent fromtheCoralSea,sovarieties oftropicalandsub- Established in1981,thismarinereserve israted asoneoftheworld’stop10divingspots. The MARINE RICHESAT THEPOORKNIGHTS HNAE ITIT • uuaaCat&TePo ngt Ilns Coast&ThePoorKnights ••Tutukaka WHANGAREI DISTRICT Islands The twomainvolcanicislands,Tawhiti andAorangi, were Rahi hometotheNgaiWaitribe,but isasmalloperatorthattakes groups h 7am-5pm)

( %

( ( 021 2617779;www.yukon.co.nz; trips % % is deservedly themain isdeservedly 0800 288882;www.diving.co.nz; Perfect DayOceanCruise Perfect 09-434 3762;www.divenz.co.nz;

( (

% % 09-434 3938;www.tutu 027 4880459;www.ocean , which runs a p specialises specialises Lookfor ) Pacific , Filled with expectant diversFilled withexpectant inthemorning marina at Tutukaka. A choice of eateries canbefoundonthe Eating &Drinking Matapouri. and from anevergreen Tutukaka hillsidebetween views six.Theyenjoysea cottages cansleep open-plan attractive,These self-contained, Rd;cottages$180-320; watercottages.co.nz; Matapouri four). (sleeps cottage atthebackofcontained thegarden with thewelcominghostsornab theself- cottage $120-160; .co.nz; 2049NgunguruRd,Ngunguru;s$60,d&tw$110-120, (enquire atthei-SITE, p159 ). Dive! Tutukaka In summerthere are fromWhangarei buses Getting There& Away of topping options. The pizzashave perfect thin crustsandplenty bread, thepizzaand icecream. thepasta, andrestaurantat thisexcellenttakeaway –the h locals. garrulous dren’s menuminglewithmounted fishand fish andchips, hamsteaks) andagoodchil- Moocha’s, where eats(burgers, standard This venue playshosttothenicelynamed 3249; mains$9-19; Top NZbandsplayon summer weekends. ofing –notleastbecause theexcellent coffee. thiscafé/restaurant/barevening, isoften buzz- cappingoff theirPerfectand those Daysinthe lunch $15-24,dinner$22-33; Marina Pizzeria Marina AnglersClub DeepSea Whangarei Schnappa Rock Cottages Bluewater Bellmain House 10am-8pm Thu-Sun) pi h (

% (

% ( Everything ishomemade 4-8pm Sun-Wed,4-10pmThu-Sat) % 09-434 3898;www.bellmainhouse Share thishomelyhouse )

09-434 3774;breakfast $6-15, tapu ( 09-434 3166;pizzas$13-23; % h (forbidden).Even 09-434 3423;www.blue breakfast, lunch&dinner) lonelyplanet.com

( % 09-434 p

) which has beaches, another to the The quickest route to takes SH1tothe Russell RUSSELL ROAD else. everyone its customers, charging $35return for has free daily shuttles lonelyplanet.com and the Maorione-hour walkleads through land fee. access ($80) andwalkback. Pricesincludetheland fromRussell/Paihia house ($110)orRawhiti Brettvia theHoleinRocktoCape light- Brettto take theCape Walkwaysboat service tor centre ( inRussell p168 ). Anotheroptionis visi- pay alongwithyourhutfees attheDOC private land(adult/child $30/15),which you .capebrettwalks.co.nz) $12/6) are possible in DOC’s top of thepeninsula,where overnight stays Brett Cape pointforthe trek isthestarting to Rawhiti where life stillrevolves around the to isolated fine scenery. coastal ( able atsecluded Waikahoa Bay. camping(peradult/childBasic $8/4)isavail- people. eight bothsleep to $1500perweek); cottage ($350 comfortable andbeachhouse andasimplerbut ($500 to$2000perweek), includingawell-appointed lodgereserve, manages arange of accommodationinthe beaches. kawa trees, juttingheadlandsandpicturesque of dunes,pohutu- thecoastlinewithsand to do? can’t craft. Isthere anythingthatcorrugated iron gander atsomeinteresting Kiwianaartand coffee, scrummycake, amazing viewsanda Helena forexcellentorganic Bay fair-trade breakfast $6-15,lunch$9-22; after 14km atthe Hikurangi atWhakapara. It’sworthastop adds abouthalfanhourto the trip. Rdisasnakingscenicroute that old Russell of byferry.Bay The Islandsandthencrosses % Closer to the Rawhiti turn-off, ashorter turn-off, totheRawhiti Closer Continuing northyou’llreach theturn-off Further north,anothersideroadleads At The turn-off iseasytomiss,6kmnorthofThe turn-off Mimiwhangata CoastalPark Mimiwhangata 09-433 6160;peradult/child$7/3.50) . Helena Bay Cape Brett Walkways Brett Cape Whangaruru North HeadScenicReserve Whangaruru North , ahard7½-hour,20kmwalktothe DOC Rawhiti Whangamumu ScenicReserve

( % an unsealed detourleads8km anunsealed BAY OFISLANDS charges afee forcrossingthe 09-433 6554;[email protected]) , a small Ngapuhi settlement , asmallNgapuhisettlement Gallery &Café Gallery h

Cape Brett Hut Brett Cape from Whangarei for 10am-5pm)

( % , agorgeous part 09-403 8823;www

( % DOC campsite , walksand high above high 09-433 9616; (adult/child

marae to , .

today (see p34 ). mains thelinchpin of racerelations inNZ up andfirst signed in1840;thetreaty re- here thattheTreaty of wasdrawn Waitangi birthplace of Itwas Europeancolonisation. itisthe (atRussell), ent English settlement migrations. As thesite of NZ’sfirst perman- Pewhairangi here andsettled earlyintheir historical significance. Maori knewitas to fork out. don’t headoutonthewater, sobeprepared wallet. There’s nopointcominghere ifyou trips clamourtowrestle moneyoutof your the windowasabewilderingarrayof boat the country.After out thatthebudget goes of budget accommodationof anywhere in structure. Paihia hasoneof thebestselections touristinfra- ating historyandsubstantial teensy bit overhyped. and thisbay,whilewonderful,couldbea reality isthatNZhasmanybeautifulspots ated islands.The byaround150undeveloped waters turquoise punctu- floating atopthese ing shots of lazy,sun-filled daysona yacht in thefirst placenodoubtfeatured linger- footage thatmadeyouwanttocomeNZ as oneof NZ’stoptouristdrawcards.The Undeniably pretty, the ofBay Islandsranks BAY OFISLANDS a further16km to Russell. four).Fromhere bach (sleeping contained it’s andaself- aroominthehouse between bush locationoverlooking thewater. Choose Rd;d$125-135,bach$140) 24 Kingfisher Russell B&B tosproutup.AtJacks start and houses Bay, and the10-minute walks –the20-minute Northland.Therethroughout are twoshort themixed forest thatonceprevailedconserves access tothe easy shot in. down whalessotheharpooners couldget an toensnareand NetRockwasused orslow themainland tion. Anetfastened between and theremains of anunusualwhalingsta- than 40ancientMaori sites onthepeninsula Whangamumu Harbour. There are more What sets itapartfromtherestWhat sets isitsfascin- A successionof idyllictinybaysfollows The Bay ofThe Bay Islandsisaplaceof enormous Rdthere’sContinuing southalongRussell

( % Ngaiotonga ScenicReserve 09-403 7887;www.fernzecotours.co.nz; Twin Bole Walk Kauri Kauri Grove Nature Walk Nature Grove Kauri hasaquiet , which . 165

BAY OF ISLANDS ISLANDS OF BAY NORTHLAND & THE THE & NORTHLAND NORTHLAND & THE BAY OF ISLANDS plenty of vessels keen to get youonboard, some sortof and theretaking cruise are You can’tleave of theBay Islandswithout CRUISING change during thelifetime of this book. if sometours are combinedorthenames websites willremain active. Don’tbesurprised will continueandthephonenumbers and assured thatallof theirusualtourproducts this willmeanforthefuture, butwe’ve been nounced amerger. No-oneisquite sure what ( Fullers stop. first callingintotheothertownastheir or Russell, packer specials.Boatsleave fromeitherPaihia ofand several themainoperators offer back- Some of thehostels canarrange cheap deals are extremely helpfulandcanbooktours. The informationcentres atPaihia andRussell couldliterally putadampeneronthings. seas good weather,astorrential rainorchoppy Where First doyoustart? byprayingfor 166 Activities &Tours Kaitaia (76km) To Kaikohe(12km); Ake Marsden EstateWinery % Airport Kerikeri BAY OFISLANDS (84km) To Kaitaia At thetimeof research thetwobigplayers, ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ 0800 222979;www.kings-tours.co.nz) Waipapa 1 A FILNS • ciiis&Tus BAY &Tours OFISLANDS••Activities Winery Kerikeri Pakaraka Cottle

( % Hill Owhareiti Lake Takou Bay

10 Purerura Rd Waitangi 0800 653339;www.fboi.co.nz) River Puketona Taronui Moerewa Bay ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ Waitangi Forest Wreck (10km) Rainbow Warrior To CavalliIslands(3km); Haruru Falls Airfield Te Tii

To Whangarei Aroha Island Te Puna Inlet Puna Te Purerua Peninsula (48km) Haruru Falls Haruru Forest Opua 1 Kawakawa Moturoa Waitangi Island , hadjustan- Black Rocks Opua Marsden Cross Paihia and Pa (7.5km) To Ruapekapeka Okiato ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ Wikiki Cape Bay ofIslands Tapeka Point Tapeka Peninsula Russell Motuarohia Kings Waikare Inlet Island Orongo Bay Moturua Parou Bay Island launches. Sometimesthetripiscombinedwith boats,jetboatsandlargeincluding sailing phasis on themarineenvironment. Prices ocean-going yacht aboard the72ft cruise sailing day/two-night dm/d $495/1150) kayaking, snorkelling and swimming. then afulldayspentisland-hopping, fishing, dinnerwithlive music, barbecue andseafood departs atabout5pmandincludesan excellent room costsanextra$20perperson. The cruise double rooms,and(of abar. course) Aprivate floating hostel, withfour-bed dorms,twinand a formervehicle ferry that’snowacomfortable ( onthe mantic night water isaboardthe The cheapest waytospendapossiblyro- OVERNIGHT CRUISES Island. Urupukapuka tions are andstoppingforanhouron right) Brett itifcondi- Cape (andpassingthrough tours, intheHoleRockoff taking ($77/39) (adult/child $82/41)andhalf-day swimming withdolphins.Fullers runsfull- Jacks Bay % Waihaha P ACIF Okahu Island O CEAN S OUTH Ecocruz Urupukapuka 0800 762527;www.rocktheboat.co.nz; 22hrcruises$168) Waewaetorea Island Russell Forest Island Rawhiti ᝲᝲ Scenic Reserve

( Ngaiotonga % Deep Water ὈὈ is a highly recommended isahighly three- 0800 432627;www.ecocruz.co.nz; cruises (315m) Te Ranga Walkway Russell Cove Taupiri Bay 0 0 Pahi Bay Te ToroaBay Ngaiotonga Manawanui Whangamumu Harbour Whangaruru Cape Brett Harbour Scenic Reserve Whangamumu Oakura (Hole intheRock) Piercy Island Bland Bay lonelyplanet.com Home Point Head ScenicReserve Whangaruru North , withanem- 6 miles 10 km Rock ,

and Fuller’s capable ofspeedsover30knots. Italsohasa licensed bar. adult/child $115/79)NZ’sfastestcommercialcatamaran, In most cases youcaneitherhelpcrewIn mostcases the The bestwaytoexplore thebayisundersail. SAILING ing, kayaking and snorkelling. include accommodation,awesomefood,fish- lonelyplanet.com young. As wellasencountering bottlenose tions, withrestrictions ifthedolphinshave swims are condi- subjecttoweather andsea free tripifdolphins are not sighted. Dolphin success rate andoperators generally offer a swim withthe dolphins. Theyhave ahigh aroundtheislandsaswellwatch or cruise tripsoperate allyearandyougetThese to DOLPHIN SWIMMING adult/child $77/39) ( and handyifyou’re shortontime. the Rocktriponboarda jetboat –goodfun Fasten Holein forahigh-speed yourseatbelt JETBOATING three-day yacht hire ($590). which canbecombinedwithanadditional lessons, ($345), includinga two-daycourse cape.co.nz; yachthire perday$160-390) Escape Yacht Charters If you’re interested inlearning to sail, She’s aLady Thompson R Tucker Phantom On theEdge Gungha II Carino Recommended boatsoffering day trips: swimming, snorkelling, kayakingandfishing. the afternoon island-hopping,sunbathing, boat (noexperiencerequired), orjustspend wonderful food(10peoplemaximum, wonderful BYO allowed). racing sloop,knownforits adult/child $99/50)Afast50ft with dolphinsanda barbecue lunch. swimming catamaranoffering adult/child $85/45)A50ft ing or paddling about in a see-through-bottomed ing orpaddlingaboutinasee-through-bottomed kayak. $90)Allowsyoutotryyourhandatkneeboarding,tub- trips Places Trust and DOC for special sailings during Places TrustandDOCforspecialsailingsduring the year. withtheHistoric trust withaneducationfocus,itpartners tours thatincludeabarbecuelunch.Runbycharitable .co.nz; adult/child$120/60)Amajestictallshipwithdaily friendly crew freshly offering made friendly sandwiches. oceanyachtwitha ing.co.nz; $85)Abeautiful65ft trips % 0800 622 528; www.mackattack.co.nz; adult/child$75/38) 0800 622528;www.mackattack.co.nz; ( % ( ( % % Excitor 09-402 8040;www.sailingdolphins.co.nz; ( ( % % 0800 224421;www.yachtphantom.com; 0800 478900;www.bayofislandssail have daily 1½-hour trips. 0800 724584;www.bay-of-islands.com; 0800 397567;www.explorenz.co.nz; BAY &Tours OFISLANDS••Activities

( ( % %

( % 0800 882537;www.tucker 09-402 7020;www.excitor.co.nz; 09-402 7143;www.greates offers sailing Mack Attack Mack Great Great

$85), leaving from Paihia’s wharf hourly $85), leavingfromPaihia’s wharf summer.during ($75to parasailingtrips -nz.co.nz) Organisesone-hour adm syie ($295). skydives tandem Operates fromHaruruFalls 12,000ft offering Airfield, canalsoberented (half-/full people. Kayaks day $30/40). tours$55/75/130);minimumtwo tours (half-/full-/two-day Te.coastalkayakers.co.nz; Pde,Paihia) Runsguided Karuwha NZ Skydive NZ Skydive Parasail Flying Kiwi gear. snorkelling ($20 perday),boogieboards,fishingrods,wet suitsand small sailingcatamarans($50perhour),mountain bikes (from $10perhour), kayaks justabouteverything: Hires beachhire.co.nz; Rd,Paihia; Marsden Bay BeachHire OTHER ACTIVITIES can be hired. Various PADI courses are available andgear dives atthe Warrior .com; WilliamsRd,Paihia) Islands, about anhour fromPaihia by boat. wreck of the to snorkellers. Localoperators also headtothe of itsits10mbelowthesurfaceandisvisible Waterin Deep Cove Brett. nearCape Thetop of the113mnavy frigate HMNZS betterdiving, madeeven bytherecent sinking ofThe Bay Islandsoffers somefinesubtropical SCUBA DIVING Island Kayaks Coastal Kayakers renting akayakandgoing it alone. around thebay,eitheronaguidedtourorby There are plentyof opportunitiesfor kayaking SEA KAYAKING humans tobedragged in, not dolphins). Island, whileKingsincludesboomnetting(for ($115, 5½hours). Fullers stopsatUrupukapuka $30 payable ifyou choose to swim. includes afour-hour trip,withanadditional phin-swimming tripsinthebay.Theprice .co.nz; adult/child$79/39) DOC. via tion of towardsmarineresearch, thecostgoes orcas andpenguins.Withalloperators apor- whales, and commondolphins,youmaysee $55/90) OperatesfromBay Beach Hire. beachhire.co.nz; Rd,Paihia; Marsden half-/full-daytour Dive HQ Dive Fullers andKings( opposite ) bothruntrips Dolphin Discoveries Dolphin Discoveries andreef dive trips($205)ortwo

( % Mp p173; (Map Mp p173; (Map Rainbow Warrior Canterbury (Map (Map p173 ; 0800 427593;www.nzskydive.com) (Map (Map p173 ; ( offers combined % wasthefirst tododol-

( % % % 0800 359691;www.parasail % 09-402 8234;www.dolphinz 09-402 7551;www.divenz % for the same price. forthesame 09-402 6078;www.bay 09-402 6078;www.bay 09-402 8105;www h off the Cavalli the Cavalli off 9am-5.30pm) Canterbury Rainbow 167

BAY OF ISLANDS ISLANDS OF BAY NORTHLAND & THE THE & NORTHLAND NORTHLAND & THE BAY OF ISLANDS change in the future. forest foraone-hourtourwithFootprints 6 February. Waitangi Day Waitangi Tall ShipRace Festivals &Events the rest of thetourata later date. overnightbe possibletostopoff andpickup itwill rundaily.Ifitdoes that itwilleventually scheduled accordingtodemand,withthehope andwas time of research thiswasanew service follow, thenit’sbacktoPaihia by4pm.Atthe andKohukohuoptional picniclunch). Rawene ( lunch ($65) oraharbourcruise p190 ; $16for Opononi, where there’s achoice of acrayfish Waipoua guide( p189 ). Thenit’sbackto $105/53) adult/child 979; www.dolphincruises.co.nz/crossings-hokianga; Kings’ starved. you don’thave yourowncarorifyou’re time ations are limited, if soadaytripmakes sense west-coastdestin- Transport optionstothese HOKIANGA &WAIPOUA FORESTTOURS sandboarding and swimming. andmakes buses) plentyofseater stopsfor .co.nz; adult/child$105/55) .co.nz; $95) trips Exposure to Puketi Forest. Kings’version is swimming atTapotupotu andavisit Bay $105) Bldg,Paihia;653 339;www.awesomenz.co.nz; Maritime trips Fullers’ is bus tours andbackpacker-oriented versions. stops andwhetherlunch is included. onthedunes,butchecksandboarding the withvisitstoPuketi ForestMile Beach, and pretty similar,drivingonewayalongNinety of12 hours) fromtheBay Islands.They’re all operators offerseveral longdaytrips(10to (see Bay p184 ). Butifyou’re shortontime, Reinga fromAhipara,Kaitaia orDoubtless It’s cheaper andquicker todotripsCape CAPE REINGATOURS Salt Air 168 flights outtotheHoleinRock cost $190. Beach($375).Helicopter andNinetyMile Cape Reinga flight-and-4WDtourto of Islands($195)toafive-hour discoverytouroftheBay flights rangingfromaone-hour January. Dune-Rider Fullers andKings( p166 ) runbothregular , with sandboarding onthe85mdunes, , withsandboarding A FILNS • usl BAY OFISLANDS••Russell ( leaves Paihia at8amandheadstothe % ( % Awesome Adventures Awesome Adventures 09-402 8338;www.saltair.co.nz) Has scenic . It’s possible these maymerge. It’spossiblethese or Various atWaitangion ceremonial events Held inRussellonthefirst Saturdayof

0800 573875;www.northernexposure 4X4 Crossings Hokianga Crossings Hokianga ( % takes smallergroups(20- 0800 494868;www.dunerider Mp p173; (Map

( % Northern Northern 0800 222 % 0800 waters totheamusement of all. (July) intothefrigid contraptions jumpoffthewharf separate areas theymanage intheBay of Islands. The Strand; weekend in August. weekend Second in May. so-called Girls’War,whentwopairs of Maori 1835 asfullof ‘therefuse of society’. in theharbour. CharlesDarwindescribeditin dozens of whalingshipsatatimewere anchored victs, whalers anddrunken sailors. Bythe1830s elementssuch con- magnet forrough asfleeing first Itquicklybecamea Europeansettlement. tury thetribepermitted ittobecomeAotearoa’s fortified Ngapuhivillage. Intheearly19thcen- itwasKororareka Penguin),Russell, (Sweet a gift shops and B&Bs. historictownthatisabastionofsweetly cafés, the beach by170years. Instead they’llfinda they’ve theorgiesdisappointed: missed on ing to fordebauchery willbesadly Russell as ‘thehellholeof thePacific’, com- those itwasonceknownprosaically Although pop 1140 RUSSELL CoastalClassic Weekend Jazz &BluesFestival Russell Birdman Country RockFestival DOC visitor centre DOC visitorcentre ally better choice thanBruce or Barry. toKororarekaultimately passed –amargin- abandoned.ThenameRussell was eventually Okiato, which wasbythenknownasRussell, movedwas officially toAucklandin1841and ernor andthetemporaryThe capital capital. leaves from)wastheresidence of thegov- in 1840,Okiato(where thecarferry now aries managed tobroker a peace agreement. injured over periodbefore atwo-week mission- respective relatives. Hundreds were killedand to avenge theinsultandharmdonetotheir escalated asfamilymembers ralliedaround Thisminorconflictquickly andfighting. abuse therivalsonbeachbetween ledtoverbal calledBrind.Achanceing captain meeting women were vyingfortheattention of awhal- Islands, held on Labour Weekend Islands, heldonLabourWeekend in October. NZ’s largestyachtrace,fromAuckland totheBayof Information After thesigning of theTreaty of Waitangi In 1830 the settlement wasthesceneof In 1830thesettlement the as itwasknownasahellhole,oreven Before h 9am-5pm) Excellentdisplays onthe40 Where abunchoflunatics withflying ( % (www.jazz-blues.co.nz) Second (www.jazz-blues.co.nz) Second (www.country-rock.co.nz) (www.country-rock.co.nz) 09-403 9005; www.doc.govt.nz; 09-403 9005;www.doc.govt.nz; (www.coastalclassic.co.nz) lonelyplanet.com ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Endeavour large Cook’s 1:5-scalemodelof Captain access. 10am-1pmSat,1-4pmSun)Internet 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, Apr-Sep, 8am-8pm Oct-Mar) On 8am-8pmOct-Mar) Apr-Sep, the pier. 8020; www.russell-information.co.nz; lonelyplanet.com Hone Heke in the Northland War. chief fromtheHokiangawho sidedagainst yard istoWakaNene, apowerfulNgapuhi biggest memorialinthe fascinating grave- cannonball holes from the1845battle. The construction. It’sscarred withmusket and made adonationtowardsthecost of its the country’soldestchurch. CharlesDarwin est buildings,including history. town’s 4pm) ( The smallbutmodern Sights &Activities &InformationCentre Russell Booking Post Office Centre Medical Russell Enterprise % Kororareka Point Scenic 1 3 2 RUSSELL Reserve ὈὈ ὈὈ Russell laysclaimtosomeofRussell NZ’sold- 09-403 7701;2YorkSt;adult/child$5/free; hasawell-presented Maori a section, SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Backpackers...... Russell Top10HolidayPark... Pukematu Lodge...... Pukeko Cottage...... Kororareka Lodge...... Commodore's Lodge...... Russell Museum...... Russell MiniTours...... Pompallier...... Maiki (FlagstaffHill)...... Kahu's Hire...... Christ Church...... Centre...... Post Office...... (see2) Medical Centre...... Enterprise Russell...... DOC VisitorCentre...... Sheltered Waters D3 End oftheRoadBackpackers.. Russell Booking&Information (Traders Mall) (Traders AC anda10-minute videoonthe ( % BAY OFISLANDS••Russell ( % 09-403 7690;ChurchSt) (Flagstaff Hill) Ὀ 09-403 8843; Traders Mall; 09-403 8843;TradersMall; Maiki 7 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Christ Church Christ D2 C2 B1 D3 D1 B2 C3 B2 C3 A1 B3 C2 B2 B2 C2 C3 h 15 Russell Museum Ramp Boat Kororareka

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2 Beresford St Beresford James St 10 Traders In summer,weatherpermitting, is Russell Overlooking About and aneasy 1.5km behind Russell

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BAY OF ISLANDS ISLANDS OF BAY NORTHLAND & THE THE & NORTHLAND NORTHLAND & THE BAY OF ISLANDS to find but well worth the effort, thismod- to findbutwellworththeeffort, cottagebackpackers.co.nz; 14 Brind Rd;s/d/tw$25/50/50) cottagebackpackers.co.nz; 14Brind in the back garden. potshots atpeskymynahbirds taking tween ist owner,isalways upforachat –inbe- theart- cleanliness isbloke-standard. Barry, notdirty,butthe back garden.It’s certainly andacaravanin thishomelyhouse inthe hostel, there are justtwobedroomsforrent More like atamate’s staying placethana Way. Waiaruhe Te into WahapuRd andthenturnright onthewaytocarferry.Russell Take communalspace. It’s5kmfrom a pleasant ern bush retreat hasonlytworoomssharing .pelnet.org; 92dTe Rd;dm/d$23/56; Wahapu o BUDGET luxury does very well. times. Ifbudget’s notaconsideration,Russell lodges, tobookaheadatbusy butyou’llneed tions are scarce. There are tinybudget several atouristtrap,decentmidrange op- Being Sleeping interest. of from 10am(notatnoon)andvisitlocalsites Wharf,sixtimesdailyonthehour Russell depart fromtheFullers office,which fronts Tours Russell Mini Tours 170 Pukeko Cottage Pukeko See See p166 forothertours aroundthebay. Kawiti inseveral battles.Kawiti Duringthistimethemodern of theNewZealand Wars hadbegun. ordered theships’cannonstobefired onthetown;mostofbuildings were razed. The first anchor. The captainoftheHMS andfinaltime. The forthefourth Britishwere(Flagstaff Hill) forcedtoevacuate toshipslyingat felledWhile thetroopsrushedofftoprotect thetownship,HoneHeke theUnionJackonMaiki fromLongBeach. attacking fromthesouthandanotherparty attacking success, withChiefKawiti garrisoned thetownwithsoldiersandmarines. time. Governorauthority, forthefourth FitzRoy wasdetermined nottoletthathappenand so disaffected flagstaff,asymbolofBritish thathewasplanningtochopdownKororareka’s Just five yearsafter hehadbeenthefirstsignatorytotreaty, Ngapuhichief wasHone Heke HONE HEKE&THENORTHLANDWAR and George Grey (thenewgovernor) madetheirpeace,withnosidetheclearwinner. toseehowimpressive were. thesefortifications EventuallySH1 southofKawakawa, Kawiti Heke, sophisticated system stoppingattheRuapekapeka oftrench warfare. It’sworth A FILNS • usl BAY OFISLANDS••Russell In the months that followed, British troops (united with Hokianga Ngapuhi) fought Heke and Ngapuhi)foughtHeke In themonthsthatfollowed,Britishtroops(united withHokianga On 11March1845theNgapuhistagedadiversionary siegeofthetown.Itwasagreat tactical Wainui

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09-403 8278;www.bay-of-islands ( % 09-403 7866;adult/child$20/10) 09-403 8498;www.pukeko Hazard p waswoundedseverely inthebattleandhisreplacement Hard Hard )

ps modoreslodgemotel.co.nz; 28 The Strand;units$150-650; spot withviewsover the marina. bedrooms (adoubleandatwin).It’squiet this basicbach onlyfourpeopleintwo sleeps Rd;dm/d/tw$30/60/60; Brind en-suite double rooms. include aspapool,verdant gardenandsome vibe thatwouldsuitunfussy dudes.Treats a bitgrungybutthere’s afriendlycommunal good fall-back ifthemicrohostels are full.It’s $65-75; www.russellbackpackers.co.nz; 18FloranceAve; dm$25,d Spacious, nicelypresented units are the order apartments facing thewaterfront promenade. makes upforthelackof privacyinthefront and deck compensate. share bathrooms.Anicecommunallounge ones atthebackonlyhave smallwindows and front roomshave views,while thecheaper thetownshipand thebeach. Thebetween clean option,thislodge sits on thehilltop -lodge.co.nz; 22OneroaRd;units$140-175; Lodge Kororareka MIDRANGE &TOPEND metered. but tidy cabinsandniceunits.Showers are clean, store, good facilities,wonderfulhydrangeas, 110, units$150-230; .russelltop10.co.nz; LongBeachRd;campsites$40,cabins$95- Commodore’s Lodge Commodore’s Backpackers Waters Sheltered Russell Top10HolidayPark End oftheRoadBackpackers pa pi ) wasborn,effectively theworld’sfirst Being theenvyof passer-by every Being ) Thelarge dorm(12beds)isa p Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels ( % ) This leafyparkhasasmall 09-403 8494;www.kororareka ( % p 09-403 7899;www.com

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09-403 7826;www ( % 09-403 8827;13 p 09-403 8818; Asolid, ) i town. in at thegate tothe warm hospitality. culture isattheforefront, fromthecarvings Maorithe hillopposite thefamousflagstaff. top end,bothliterally andfiguratively, on high lodge.co.nz; FlagstaffRd;r$395) and free kayaks,dinghies and bikes. of thedayhere, alongwithareally nicepool lonelyplanet.com in the same complexas in thesame Tuk Tuk. cosy tavern gardenandpooltables, withabeer h fully presented and delicious meals. fully plunders Asian stylestoproducebeauti- feel.beachhouse The Pacific Rimmenugain- way, thisrestaurant andbreezy hasabright Thu-Sun) $14-21, dinner$28-35; put asmileonany gannet’s beak. thatwould eatery hasan emphasisonseafood Chapel Sts;mains$27-33; littleworld Russell’s go by. ent weathergrab outfrontandwatch a table and Thaifavourites fillthemenu.Inclem- h best Russell’s breakfast option. roll-and-custard-square kindof place,butit’s mains $12-18; beach. the wood-fired at pizzasandbattlingtheseagulls you’re better grabbingoneof off thegourmet 18; have doesn’t moreRussell on offer. thata townsotouristy,it’sdisappointing For acountrysohooked oncaféculture and Eating &Drinking arrangement). by that thebreakfast willbememorable (dinners an acclaimedfoodcritic,youcanbeassured box lake. Whenoneof thecharming hostsis two intheconverted barnfacingachocolate- and stylishly plushrooms,twointhehouse four rabble.from Russell’s Itnowcontains American consulate, located adiscreet 4km tiful woodenhomestead (c1860)wasNZ’sfirst homestead.co.nz; AucksRd;s/d$400/650; Pukematu Lodge Pukematu o Restaurant Gannets Tuk Tuk Café Waterfront Fidel’s Pizza Orongo BayHomestead There’s a Pub ’roundthecorner h 11am-10pm Sun-Mon,11am-midnight Tue-Sat) 10am-11pm; 8am-3pm) The flashest option in Russell byalong The flashestoptioninRussell

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( v There are acoupleof but tables, % 09-403 7111;19YorkSt;mains$15-24; noon-late Tue-Sun) BAY OFISLANDS••Paihia &Waitangi Thai fabrics adorn the tables Thaifabricsadornthetables ) 09-403 8869;CassSt;mediumpizza$6-

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09-403 8500;www.pukematu % dinner Tue-Sun) ( 09-402 7771;TheStrand;lunch % Pukematu sitsatthe ( % 09-403 7990;cnrYork& 09-403 7831;19YorkSt; 09-403 7527;www.the It’sasausage- p Thisbeau- This funky ) (The Strand) (The

Acool, internet access ($6perhour);buses stop outside. hour). Informationand internetaccess($4 8pm Nov-Mar) per Rd; landnz.com; Marsden Maritime Building Maritime Bay ofIslandsi-SITE Islands. of if itwasn’tthemainentrypointto theBay town would beafairlynondescriptcoastal this istheplace to start. to gripswithNZ’shistoryandracerelations, the document.Ifyou’re interested incoming you’re reading theEnglish orMaori version of something abitlike it,dependingonwhether BritishsovereigntyCrown, establishing or Maorisigned between chiefs andtheBritish much-contested Treaty of wasfirst Waitangi Day, 6 February). companies thenation’sbirthday(Waitangi commemoration, protest andapathythatac- demonstrated bythemixture of celebration, plex placeinthenationalpsyche –aptly Waitangi inhabits aspecial,somewhatcom- The birthplaceof toAotearoa), NZ(asopposed pop 7250 board. on Buyyourticketsbut hourlyintheevenings. October toMay), generally 20minutes every It runsfrom7amto7pm(until10.30pm (adult/child oneway$6/3,return $10/5) reach isontheregular Russell is Russell Rd ( p165 ). travelling fromthesouth,ascenicalternative and 10pm.Buyyourtickets onboard.Ifyou’re 6.50am between Okiato (8kmfromRussell), minutes fromOpua(5kmPaihia) to passenger adult/child$1/50c) via the The quickest waytoreach bycaris Russell Getting There&Away also offers artjunkiesa fix. caffeine gorgeous glassware andpaintings,thisgallery theirwares selling been forover 20 years. inely localgallery,where artistshave Russell’s Entrance Gallery Shopping Information PAIHIA &WAITANGI Joined to Waitangi by abridge,Joined toWaitangi Paihia It washere thatthelong-neglected and On foot,thequickest andeasiestwayto Just Imagine… car ferry

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% (car & driver $10, motorcycle & rider $5, $10,motorcycle&rider (car &driver

(Marsden Rd)Touroperatorsand (Marsden ( % ( 09-403 7716;13YorkSt) % h 09-403 8360;25YorkSt) , which 10 runs every 09-402 7345;www.north 8am-5pm Apr-Oct, 8am- 8am-5pm Apr-Oct, fromPaihia. passenger ferry Agenu- Fullof 171

BAY OF ISLANDS ISLANDS OF BAY NORTHLAND & THE THE & NORTHLAND NORTHLAND & THE BAY OF ISLANDS h 7437; www.waitangi.net.nz;1Tau Henare Dr;admission$12; h canoe) canoe) of all-powerfulchiefs and gods. andsummonupaworld explain thecarvings legends, songsandstoriesto uses presentation major Maori tribes;a15-minute audiovisual representthe treaty. the Thefinecarvings completed in1940tomarkthecentenary of detailed copy of the treaty. tographs anddisplays,includingafacsimile Insideareas amemorialandmuseum. pho- the bay,wasrestored in1989andispreserved gardens andbeautifullawnrunningdownto the Treaty withits of The house, Waitangi. years forthesigningof later itwasthesetting home of British resident James Busby, eight NZ’s history.Builtin1832asthefour-room side viewsof a still-beautiful land. three flags(UK,NZandMaori), andthehill- spiritual the surroundingbush fullof native birds,the withitsmanicuredHouse gardenandlawns, full of culturalicons–thecolonial-style Treaty A visittothe GROUNDS TREATY WAITANGI Sights &Activities Post Office Services Medical 172 9am-6pm) Near thecove isthe35m Just acrossthelawn,magnificently The and photographs ofhiswork. other ofhisdesigns, andinsideare books TheOsaka. café opposite thetoiletswasan- asVienna andbe seenincitiesas far apart on theroof. examplesofhisworkcan Other coloured bottles, andwithgrassplants decorated withceramicmosaicsandbrightly –lotsofwavylines typical Hundertwasser tricity from1973untilhisdeathin2000. inanisolated housewithoutelec- Kawakawa Friedensreich Hundertwasser. Helived near andecoarchitectby Austrian-born artist public toilets(60GilliesSt)were designed located onSH1southofPaihia, butthe town, isjustanordinaryKiwi Kawakawa HUNDERTWASSER’S LOO 8.30am-5pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm 8.30am-5pm Mon&Wed-Fri, Tue) A FILNS • aha&Wiag BAY OFISLANDS••Paihia &Waitangi The mostphotographedtoiletsinNZare Treaty House Treaty Ngatokimatawhaorua whare runanga whare whare (2WilliamsRd) is a must for every itinerary.It’s isamustforevery Waitangi Treaty Grounds Treaty Waitangi ( andthewarlike % hasspecialsignificancein 09-402 8407; Selwyn Rd; 09-402 8407;Selwyn (meeting house) was house) (meeting . Ittoowasbuilt waka taua waka waka, (

% 09-402 (war the and performance times. November itpaystocallaheadcheck tour May and a tourandperformance. Between The 10.30am, 1.30pm&3pmOct-Apr) t rise. to port. Pricesforoverseas visitors are likely ifyou’re aKiwi,bringyourpass- Zealanders; cess totheTreaty Grounds free forallNew Paihia are includedin the price. show.Freeby asound-and-light transfers from pheric theatricalperformanceaccompanied Maori welcomeandheadsintoanatmos- whare runanga. ofdramatisation Maori historyheldinthe h ( $30/10) guides lead woven flax)and dance thatinvolves manipulatingaballof dance, including demonstrates traditionalMaori songand $12/6; logs. kauri howitwasfashionedfromgigantic details for thecentenary, andaphotographicexhibit NZ’s first church –asimple raupo (bulrush) onthesitelarly old(1925),but itstands of Paihia’s ST PAUL’S CHURCH well assome excellent storytelling. perform theproper The Ngapuhihostsweartraditional garband Falls before visitingareplica Maori village. bridge, thejourneyheadsupto Haruru waka portunity topaddleatraditional50ft carved $75; 2hr trip Tai-a-Mai Waka For ahands-onexperienceof Maori culture, WAKA JOURNEY as towhetherit’s reopened.been and theTreaty Grounds.Enquire atthei-SITE heredestroyed awalkwaythatledbetween are In2007severe flooding litup at night. Haruruthe attractive horseshoe Falls, which A few kilometres upstream are fromWaitangi HARURU FALLS % Finally, thetwo-hour In October 2008it isplannedtomake ac- A 30-minute 7.30pm Mon,Wed,Thu&SatOct-Apr) 09-402 5990; www.culturenorth.co.nz; admission$55; 09-402 5990;www.culturenorth.co.nz; h (canoe). Leaving fromtheWaitangi Leaving (canoe). Ultimate Waitangi Experience Waitangi Ultimate isacombinedticket includingentry, St Paul’s Church 10.30am, 11.30am, 12.30pm & 1.30pm Oct-Apr) 10.30am, 11.30am,12.30pm&1.30pmOct-Apr) h tours 10am &1pmOct-Apr) (

% Itbeginswithatraditional cultural performance 09-405 9990;www.taiamaitours.co.nz; haka haka

poi (adult/child $10/5; karakia (Marsden Rd) (Marsden

(a women’sformation (war dance).Maori Culture North NightShow North Culture of thegrounds. gives youtheop- (incantations), as (incantations), lonelyplanet.com isawonderful isn’tparticu-

h (adult/child

(adult/child 9.15am,

ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ lonelyplanet.com (2km) To MtBledisloe 4 6 1 3 2 5 PAIHIA &WAITANGI ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Kerikeri (26km) Haruru FallsAirfield(6km); Haruru FallsResort(3km); Baystay B&B(3km); To HaruruFalls(3km); AC Waitangi Opua Forest River Golf Course BAY OFISLANDS••Paihia &Waitangi Waitangi

ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Tahuna ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

Puketona Rd

29 Te Kemara Waitangi National Rd 18 6

Ti Point

Te Karuwha Te 10 Ave Reserve Horotutu Scenic 28 9 Reserve

B Pde 11 16 12 Te Ti

Bay Davis Paihia Whare Runanga...... Waka Taua...... Waitangi TreatyGrounds...... St Paul'sChurch...... Island Kayaks...... (see5) Dive HQ...... Coastal Kayakers...... Bay BeachHire...... Awesome Adventures...... (see2) Post Office...... Medical Services...... Maritime Building...... Bay ofIslandsi-SITE...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION rayHue...... B2 Treaty House......

Cres 25 Haumai River

Bayview Rd 1km 0.5miles 0 0

17 Williams Rd Rd Selwyn 3 30 School Paihia Rd 27 7 Motumaire 4 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

1 Marsden Rd Marsden Island 26 B2 B2 B2 C5 C4 B3 D5 C4 C4 C4 C4 20 2 24 Bedggood Cl 19 Ferry &Launch Kings Rd Terminal 8

TRANSPORT Salty...... (see 22) Pipi PatchBar...... (see14) Bay ofIslandsSwordfishClub.. DRINKING Woolworths Supermarket...... Waikokopu Café...... Toast...... Swiss Café&Grill...... Pure Tastes...... Only Seafood...... Beachhouse...... EATING Saltwater Lodge...... Pickled Parrot...... Peppertree Lodge...... Mousetrap...... Mayfair Lodge...... Decks ofPaihia...... Cap'n Bob'sBeachhouse...... Bay Adventurer...... Base PipiPatch...... Admiral's ViewLodge...... SLEEPING Bus Stop...... (see2) 13 McMurray Rd McMurray Ὀ

22 14

Greys La Greys 23

21 Ferry to Russell

Seaview

Paihia Rd Paihia Kawakawa Kororareka Island Taylor Opua (5km);Russell Lodge (4.5km); Bay ofIslands Homestay (2.5km); To TeHaumi Kawakawa (15km) via CarFerry(12km); Motuarahi D Bay Sullivans Rd Island 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13

173 C4 B4 B2 C4 C5 B4 C5 D5 D5 D5 C5 C5 B4 C5 B4 C5 D5 C5

BAY OF ISLANDS ISLANDS OF BAY NORTHLAND & THE THE & NORTHLAND NORTHLAND & THE BAY OF ISLANDS nautical-themed (which ismuch better than plenty of smallchill-out areas inthisfriendly there’s of astash bikes, racquets,kayaks and ceilingsaretidy roomswithhigh onoffer, plus Rd;dm$23-26,r$65-75; .co.nz; 15Kings vibe. The parrot nips. wart hascute cabins,free bikes andagood backpackers’friendly, well-maintained stal- pi .co.nz; Greys Lane;sitesperperson $16,dm$23-26,r$60; inset seats with shellfish. has colourfulfishonthewallsandresin toilet- handy forthesupermarket, thiswell-runplace $52/60/62; .co.nz; Rd;sitesperperson$14,dm$23-25,s/tw/d 7Puketona boules ety of nicerooms,plusbikes, barbecuesand being rodent-themed)hostel. Ithasavari- Rd;dm$22-24,d&tw$60; 11 Kings excellent. are tered aroundelsewhere. Allof thefollowing packers’ there row’,although are gems scat- choice of hostels. KingsRdisthemain‘back- backpackers andgreat standard isthehigh What makes Paihia for adesirablebase BUDGET Sleeping Rdwest ing Oromahoe from Opua. i-SITEs. Youcandrive intotheforest bytak- walks ($1)are and offices available fromDOC Pamphlets onalltheOpuaForest withdetails minutes, you’ll findacoupleof goodlookouts. If youwalkupfromSchool Rdforabout 20 escaped axe andfire, includingsomebigkauri. the access roads,andafew large trees have There are lookouts up gradedtracksfrom trails rangingfrom10minutes tofive hours. forest of withasmallstand kauri andwalking Just behindPaihia is WALKING upthemission ful) whoset here.station Williams brothers (onescholarly, oneforce- (wood pigeon) portraythepersonalities of the men’), whilethetui(parson bird)andkereru represents Jesus (the kingplus‘fisher of glass above – thealtar stone. Spotthenative birdsinthestained charming building,builtfromKawakawa hut constructed in1823.It’sanaltogether 174 Peppertree Lodge Peppertree Pickled Parrot Lodge Mayfair Mousetrap A FILNS • aha&Wiag BAY OFISLANDS••Paihia &Waitangi out the front. ) Surroundedbytropicalplants,this pi

( %

)

Set apartfrom therest but Set ( ( % % 09-402 8182;www.mousetrap.co.nz;

( % 09-402 6222;www.pickledparrot 09-402 7471;www.mayfairlodge Opua Forest 09-402 6122;www.peppertree the kotare (kingfisher) pi pi , aregenerating There are ) Simple, ) .capnbobs.co.nz; 44DavisCres; dm/s/d$25/47/58; pi Rd;dm$24-27,d&tw$110-130;lodge.co.nz; 14Kings large, purpose-built backpackers have en eight-bed dorms,aspaandtheworld’s tini- party dudeof thepack,thisbackpackers has Rd;dm $26,r$67-85; .com; 18Kings dios orbigger apartments are available. stu- tropical centralgarden.Self-contained blocks have comfyroomsopeningontoa tennis, kayaksandbikes. Thesmartcedar tures includeawonderfulpoolandspaarea, Adventurer’sThe Bay ‘andthat’snotall’fea- Rd;dm/r$25/85,apt$125-225; .co.nz; 28Kings It’s ridiculouslypopular,so book ahead. veranda andmore thanatouch of charm. viewsfromthehard-working owners, sea is aspotlesshome-away-from-home with pi but there is a gym. racquets. There’s of nofree set steak-knives, bar ( opposite ), andfree bicycles,movies and munal lounge. There are large balconies,a red-leather couches make foracoolcom- suites, bedding andlockers. Cow-printand you’ll have The all theprivacyyou’ll need. once you’re inyourcomfy downstairs room –yet and winenibbles intheevening hostsforbreakfasthospitable inthemorning atTeproper homestay, Haumi you’lljointhe [email protected]; 41bTe HaumiDr;s/d$125/140; tonic. Somehave spabaths and bay views. gin-and- for asunset balconies justbegging This hillsidelodge offers nattyunitswith ralsviewlodge.co.nz; Rd;apt $110-275; 2McMurray nishings. There’s alsoabar and restaurant. has resulted inswankynewcarpetsandfur- accommodation options.Floodingin2007 friendly resort hasreasonable andvaried 150; Rd; .co.nz; OldWharf Haruru Falls Resort MIDRANGE out inthe bar ( opposite ). lounge get crammedyoucanalwayshang est swimmingpool.Ifthelittlekitchen and scal choice. sociable makingthisa two barbecuesforguests’use, o Lodge Admiral’s View Base PipiPatch Bay Adventurer Bob’sBeachhouse Cap’n Lodge Saltwater pis ) ) Thissmallbutstylishbackpackers Even thedormsatthisexcellent, Te HaumiHomestay ) Facing thefalls,thisfamily-

Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels sites peradult/child$18/9,units$130-

( % (

% ( ( % % 09-402 5162;www.bayadventurer 09-402 7111;www.stayatbase 09-402 7525;www.harurufalls ( 09-402 7075;www.saltwater %

( 09-402 6236;www.admi % pis 09-402 8668;www ( % 09-402 6818; pis pi ) p The A )

) ) landslodge.co.nz; SH11, Port Opua;d$580; landslodge.co.nz; SH11,Port room, thisisn’tyouraverage B&B. Enjoy Mnemonic pinballmachine inthelounge only accommodationinNZtohave aJohnny Rd,HaruruFalls;93a Yorke r$145; bay views.Listen forkiwi at night. andhas backsontoanaturehouse reserve lonelyplanet.com has lovely fresh juices, all-daybreakfasts and leis andatrippysurfie/Pasifika-fantasy mural h Beachhouse CAFÉS &QUICKEATS balanced withgreen banana,lime and chilli. Try thesignature dish–blacklacquerduck sion foodusingmainlyNorthlandingredients. interesting, beautifullypresented Pacific fu- Resort, thisfirst-rate restaurantBeach serves small canvas-and-glass cornerof thePaihia $31-33; pickled ginger are sublime. fat Pacific and withsoy,wasabi oysters served all mannerof creamy, spicyconcoctions. The withlemonandparsley) to (catch-of-the-day withdishesrangingfromthesimple seafood, $25-30; food such as homemade strudel. pared fishdishesand wonderfulSwisscomfort tic menuincludesvegetable curry,nicelypre- romantic touch. Thewide-rangingandeclec- options,andcandlesadda outdoor seating this waterfront restaurant hasindoorand $19-30; &Grill Swiss Café RESTAURANTS Eating is also available. ity lip.Asmartwheelchair-accessible room views andhasachic littlepoolwithaninfin- luxurious, private retreat glorious affords andbush, house is irresistible. between with bayviews.Theelegantpool,set bedrooms, granite bathroomsandabigdeck impressive, thisplaceoffers modern light, .com; 69SchoolRd;d$220; Decks ofPaihia TOP END establishment. gay-friendly valley viewsfromthespapoolof thisslick, Baystay B&B Pure TastesPure Only Seafood Bay ofIslandsLodge 8am-midnight) h h h dinner) dinner) breakfast, lunch&dinner)

( %

( Thislively placedecorated with %

( Unpretentious but excellent,

( ( Anexcellentplaceforlocal ( 09-402 7479; 16 Kings Rd;mains$6-12; 09-402 7479;16Kings % % % BAY OFISLANDS••Paihia &Waitangi % 09-402 0003; 116 Marsden Rd;mains 09-402 0003;116Marsden 09-402 6066; 40 Marsden Rd;mains 09-402 6066;40Marsden 09-402 7511;www.baystay.co.nz; 09-402 6146;www.decksofpaihia 09-402 6701; 48 Marsden Rd;mains 09-402 6701;48Marsden pis ( % 09-402 6075;www.bayofis p Architecturally ) Occupyinga ) Probablythe ps ) This are atthis great tales andtall views,cold beer -tours.co.nz) 1½ hours) whenitsCrossings Hokiangatour 1am) h serves OKpizzasandhaskaraoke, games serves of the the of thePaihia–Aucklandtion istopurchase leg ( p168 ) isrunning.Another Opononiop- (see p168 ), and Kerikeri ($16, 25 minutes). four hours), Whangarei ($25,70minutes) and headdailytoAuckland($50, associated buses from theMaritime Buildingby the wharf. Paihia arrive atanddepart serving All buses Getting There&Around quizzes. and anyway. here most of themare backpackers who’llbe to keep theneighbours happy–although terrace. insideatmidnight You’llbeshuffled spot withlarge videoscreens andadecent late) at very prices. sensible club barthatwelcomesvisitors andfeeds them Rd; Marsden ( Beachhouse left ) and Toast ( above also so don’tfeel hemmedinbyourlist.See ). Kings Rdandinthetowncentre toexplore, bars buzzing.There are plentyof placesalong God blessbackpackers: keep the theycertainly Drinking &Entertainment supermarket excellent. are bar.wine andcocktail Thethin-crustpizzas rather thanbitsof drybread, atthis petite fish. chocolate withmini and flat-white coffees served popular‘fushmenu –theever andchups’ The localeismatched byKiwiiconsonthe bush andoverlooking theTreaty Grounds. –byapond,backedting isacrackingstart by Grounds; mains$7-19; through Sunday nights. gourmet burgers. There’s live musicThursday Various Reinga dailytours headtoCape Salty Pipi Patch Bar Bay ofIslandsSwordfishClub canbuysuppliesat Self-caterers Toast Waikokopu Café InterCity noon-late Tue-Sat) Thepartyhostel hasthepartybar,afunky Attached toSaltwater Lodge, thisbar Magic Travellers Network Travellers Magic

( ( % hasan8ambus to Opononi($45, % h

(

% (6 Puketona Rd; (6 Puketona 09-402 7783; 14 Kings Rd; 09-402 7783;14Kings 09-402 8684; Selwyn Mall; mains$8-24; Mall; 09-402 8684;Selwyn 4-9pm Sun-Thu, &Sat) 4-10pmFri

09-623 1503;www.intercity.co.nz) ( % Kings Kings h

It’stoastasin‘cheers’, ( % 09-402 7111; 18 Kings Rd; 09-402 7111;18Kings 9am-5pm) ( 09-402 6275;WaitangiTreaty % h 0800 222979;www.kings 7am-10pm) Thesublimeset-

( ( % % 09-402 7773; 09-358 5600; h Woolworths Woolworths . There 4.30pm- h

175 and 5pm-

BAY OF ISLANDS ISLANDS OF BAY NORTHLAND & THE THE & NORTHLAND NORTHLAND & THE BAY OF ISLANDS www.baybeachhire.co.nz; Rd; Marsden www.zanegrey.co.nz; Otehei Bay;mains$15-20; www.zanegrey.co.nz; Otehei Cable and Urupukapuka Bays. Theyhave andUrupukapukaBays. Cable sat here. starts aren’t keen todo,your workingholiday tokiwifruit)Kiwis (thepeople, asopposed some back-breaking, poorlypaidwork that increasingly, wine. Ifyou’re lookingfor you wanttooffend Kiwis), vegetables and, of kiwifruit(don’tcallthemkiwisunless its oranges, Kerikeri alsoproduces plenty surrounding fertile farmland. Famous for oninthe alotof goes although digging that thetown’sahole. That’snotthecase, Kerikeri means‘digdig’,which imply might pop 5000 KERIKERI April). to October toDecember,five dailyJanuary parting fromPaihia (three daily andRussell 744 487;adult/child$39/23) be hired (single/double$15/20 per hour). a smallstore, andkayakspedalboatscan per adult/child$15/10,dm/d/cottage$30/85/125) dinner) than ing toilets;bringfood,astove and fuel. water supplies, coldshowers andcompost- Ngapuhi in 1829. were Ngare defeated Raumati by from DOC. the 16thcentury–apamphlet($1)isavailable visits Ngare Raumati Walk Island Archaeological a choice of accommodation.The and is theonlyonewitharegular ferry service The largest of thebayislands, Urupukapuka URUPUKAPUKA ISLAND anywhere. you ( [email protected]) to wait, If you’ve more moneytospendandlesstime p171 ) andUrupukapukaIsland(see below ). Dargaville. and the route, including theWaipouaForest limited stopsandpick-upsanywhere along fare includesun- weekly) ($55,fourbuses www.magicbus.co.nz) 176 % There are Ferries departregularly (see forRussell Fullers’ It’s hardtoimagineamore idyllicsetting For bikes, visit 0800 387892;www.islandshuttle.co.nz) A FILNS • rpkpk sad BAY Island OFISLANDS••Urupukapuka Zane Grey’s Restaurant &Bar Restaurant Zane Grey’s , which alsoprovides Ocean Blue Water TaxisOcean BlueWater Urupukapuka Island Adventure Island Adventure Urupukapuka DOC campsites hop-on, hop-off service. The service. hop-on,hop-off Bay BeachHire and is a ferry service de- isaferry service pa takes five hours and Paihia IslandShuttle sites datingbackto accommodation

(adult/child $8/2) h

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% 9am-5.30pm) Urupukapuka Urupukapuka 021 2731655; 0800 400430; willtake 09-402 6078; h . There’s ( % lunch & (sites 0800 at .

a pre-European Maori village. h Hrtg Site. Heritage bouring the area includingthestore, andneigh- house chattels. There’s anongoingcampaigntohave someoriginalfittingsand ing andcontains (1822). It’sthecountry’soldestwoodenbuild- incl StoneStore $7.50/free; controversial. remains The roleof missionaries inarmingNgapuhi worth apigbutmusket pigs. costeight missionary relics. Atonetimeablanket was and blankets, aswelldiariesandother be bartered inthestore, includingmuskets It’s fullof thetypeof to goodsthatused is theoldeststonebuilding(1836)inNZ. 10am-4pm May-Oct) House$7.50/free; incl Mission The HISTORICAL SITES Sights &Activities Post Office Kerikeri DOC visitorcentre in some cottage industryorother, asthe Everyone inKerikeri tobeinvolved seems FOOD &WINE it’sonlya case 10-minute walk. FallsRainbow from WaipapaRd,inwhich Fairy Pools.Alternatively, youcanreach the passing bytheWharepoke Falls andthe Walkway leadstothe27m markedseveral tracks. The4kmKerikeri cute wooden Wars (see p33 ). Thewalkemerges near the duringtheMusketslaughtering thousands here, terrorising much of theNorthIslandand war partiesledbyHikaoncedeparted from of famousNgapuhichief HongiHika. Huge minutes andleadsto marked historicalwalk,which takes about10 Just upthehillbehind theStoneStore isa WALKING 6454; adult/child$5/1; 9am-2pmSat,9am-1pmSun)Thelibrary Mon-Fri, CobhamRd; 9297; www.kerikeri.co.nz; information availableandinternetaccess($7.50 per hour). Information Across with theriver isascenicreserve Just acrosstheriver, Adjacent, the 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Stone Store

visitor informationcentre pa (6HobsonAve) recognised asaUnescoWorld St JamesAnglican Church

( ( % , neartheKerikeri River, % Mission House Mission h 09-407 9236;adult/child$5/free, h 09-407 0300;34LandingRd; 10am-4pm) Kororipo Pa Kororipo Rewa’s Village Rewa’s 10am-4pm) h 10am-5pm Nov-Apr, isamock-upof lonelyplanet.com h

(adult/child $5/free, ( Rainbow Falls Rainbow is even older iseven % , thefortress 8am-5pm 09-407 ( (1878).

has 09-407 , ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ lonelyplanet.com estate.co.nz; Wiroa Rd; Winery Estate lunch platters.has acaféthatsells 5203; www.cottlehill.co.nz; SH10; tastings. and offers free vineyard tours (11.30am)and (mains$28)and a taurant Rd; North % with Pinotage and Syrah. suited tothesubtropicalhumidity,along grape Chambourcinhasproved particularly best tochange that.Thelittle-knownred three vineyardsnearKerikeri are doingtheir attests. town bombardment of craftshopsonthewayinto Kerikeri Course 4 1 3 2 KERIKERI Golf

While Northlandisn’tknownforitswine,

09-407 8230; www.akeakevineyard.co.nz; 165Waimate 09-407 8230;www.akeakevineyard.co.nz; 14 Falls Rainbow Rainbow Falls

12 Puketotara Stream Rd Kerikeri Kerikeri

h Kerikeri Airport(8km);Paihia(26km) Farm Hostel(4km);SH10(5km); Get Fudged(2.5km);Kerikeri To MakanaConfections(2km); Walkway Cottle Hill Winery Cottle Hill

10am-6pm Wed-Sun)

Golf View Golf

Rd Butler Mp p166; (Map Cannon Dr Cannon

Homestead BAY OFISLANDS••Kerikeri

Fairway Rd

St h 16 Dr Ὀ Ὀ 17 3 21 Augusta Pl Fairy Hobson Ave Pools

10am-4pm Tue-Sun) 18 20 Bypass Gourmet Grocer(9km)

Kerikeri Rd Rd Clark

To SH10(5km);

09-407 9398;www.marsden (Under 22 Rd King

h 2 hasaswankyres- Construction) Mp p166; (Map 15 Domain Kerikeri Ake Ake Ake Norfolk Pl pétanque 10am-5pm Wed-Sun) Kerikeri

Mall Cobblestone

Wendywood Kerikeri Cobham Rd Cobham Walkway

Stella Dr Support St Support Mill La Kerikeri B

Mp p166; (Map % Hawking

ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ River Gr Marsden Marsden offers offers Wharepoke Jacaranda Pl court, 09-407 SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION eieiVstrIfrainCnr. B3 Kerikeri VisitorInformationCentre.. Stone Store...... (see5) St JamesAnglicanChurch...... Rewa's Village...... Mission House...... Kororipo Pa...... Post Office...... DOC VisitorCentre...... Falls 9 Dr Garden Peacock

Cres

Hone 8

Kerikeri River

Heke Scenic Reserve 9am-4pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) .thegourmetgrocer.co.nz; SH10; to visitthe foodies should make thedrive toWaipapa Rd; ( Rd; .co.nz; 504Kerikeri Confections Makana toavoidclosed theboutiquechocolate factory todrivemay need intotownwithyoureyes the Kerikeri township. takes inallthree vineyards,pickingupfrom 4hrtour$40; .kerikeritaxis.co.nz; The a range of mealsand platters onitsdeck. Rd Waipapa % Kerikeri Rd It’s 7kmfromKerikeri, butself-catering If you’re arecovering sugarjunkie, you 11 h 09-407 1111; www.getfudged.co.nz; 560 Kerikeri 09-407 1111;www.getfudged.co.nz; 560Kerikeri Ὀ Kerikeri WineTrail Kerikeri Hongi Hika Recreation 8.30am-5pm) Reserve 10 Recreation Reserve Basin Gourmet Grocer 1 5 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Wai 7 Inlet roa Stream C2 C2 C2 D2 A4 C1 Landing 19

. Rd h

Bus Stop...... Cathay Cinema...... Rocksalt...... Kerikeri Bakehouse...... Fishbone...... Café Zest...... Café Jerusalem...... Black Olive...... Pagoda Lodge...... Kerikeri Top10HolidayPark...... Hone HekeLodge...... Glenfalloch...... Colonial HouseMotel...... Bed ofRoses...... SLEEPING TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING EATING adn...... C2 Landing...... 0 0 ( % 6 9am-5.30pm)

(10km) To ArohaIsland

13 Darwin Rd Darwin Mission Rd Mission

. Rd Rd Pa 09-407 6800;www.makana Rd Kemp

h ( % h

4 ( % 8am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 09-407 9515;www tours 11am&noon) and 09-407 1122;www Marsden Pl

D Kendall Get Fudged Get

Kerikeri Inlet Selwyn Pl 0.3 miles 500 m 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 177

Rd B3 A4 A3 A3 A3 A3 B3 A4 D2 A4 C3 C1 B2 B2

BAY OF ISLANDS ISLANDS OF BAY NORTHLAND & THE THE & NORTHLAND NORTHLAND & THE BAY OF ISLANDS a farm,more anorange grove, thisspot4km driveway, thisrelaxing B&Bhasabeautiful pi Rd;dm$23,s$35-55,d&tw$50-70; .co.nz; 65HoneHeke units that cater mainly to those workingin units thatcater mainlytothose sui cottage. studio – isasmartlydecoratedBritish Museum to holdacollection thatnowresides inthe three-‘room’ tents. TheJade –built House river and isdotted with Buddhasandseven cottages. Thepropertydescends tothe shaped roofs grafted ontoweatherboard an Asian fetish, thislodge features pagoda- in the1930sbyanoddballScotsman with 81 Pa Rd;4-persontent$95,d/q$150/200; of theirway to please. suite orprivate facilitiesandthehostsgoout garden andatennis court.Roomshave en Landing Rd;s/d$90/115; Glenfalloch MIDRANGE &TOPEND lounge. cosy sole chandelier addingabitof blingtothe only12.It’sahomelyplace,with sleeps out of townfeatures aquietruralcottage that xtra.co.nz; 1579SH10;dm/s/d/tw$23/38/56/56; the livingareas are a bit ropey. pong, barbecues)are someof good,although recreation areas ping (volleyball,pooltables, rateslocal orchards. are Weekly available and joyless backpackers.attached ofwalking distance thetowncentre. Avoid the camping groundwithgoodfacilitiesiswithin units $75-160) ArangaDr;sitesperadult/child$16/12, .kerikeritop10.co.nz; Top10HolidayPark Kerikeri BUDGET Sleeping aks canberented ($25for two hours). There’s aninteresting visitorcentre andkay- picnic spotfortheirnonfeathered admirers. and othernative birds,aswellanexcellent vides ahaven fortheNorthIslandbrownkiwi mangrovethrough bushes. Theislandpro- Kerikeri, reached viaapermanentcauseway hectare island(Map p166 ), 10kmnortheastof 5.30pm Thu-Tue Sep-May) Rd;admissionfree; .aroha.net.nz; Rangitane Centre ArohaIslandEcological AROHA ISLAND 178 Kerikeri Farm Hostel Kerikeri Pagoda Lodge Lodge Hone Heke A FILNS • eiei BAY OFISLANDS••Kerikeri ) HoneHeke hasalineof single-storey

Thislarge, attractive, riverside ( %

09-407 5471;[email protected]; 48 ( %

( ps % 09-407 8617;www.pagoda.co.nz; islocated onatiny5- (

% 09-407 8170;www.honeheke 09-407 6989;kkfarmhostel@ ) Downalonglush

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( % % 09-407 9326;www 09-407 5243;www p h p ) 9.30am- Built Less ) Bathed inKerikeri’sBathed orange glow,cute little the basinfromthishomestead are themain ish B&Bisfurnished withFrench antiques, thananactualbedoffortable thisstyl- roses, and munch outonanexcellentpie and coffee. 165 Kerikeri Rd;d$225-295; 165 Kerikeri The most popular nightspot intown,thisThe mostpopularnightspot Mon-Tue, 11am-11pmWed-Thu, &Sat) 11am-2amFri up popular pasta and pizza takeaways, oryou andpizzatakeaways, up popularpasta 27; the green (pesto)eggs and ham. fansshould try twist.DrSeuss Italian/Kiwi imaginative foodwithan coffee andserves h organic and free-range treats. upatempting arrayof vegetarian, serves Zest 14; $3.40-6; Bakehouse Kerikeri Eating views. awesome ing buildinghasanArtDecoambienceand luxe linensandcomfybeds.Theinterest- upwithwi-fiitself and DVD players. It maybegetting onabit,butit’sfreshened good roomsopeningontoatropicalgarden. The Colonialisafriendly,well-runjoint,with Rd;units$125-195; housemotel.co.nz; 178Kerikeri das available. deals at thiscute localcinema. There are dinner h radiance. orange-neon gardenandan smart barhasadecentbeer Rocksalt Drinking &Entertainment catering options. vibe. social withasmileand best falafels, served Rd;mains$16-19; Kerikeri meals are perfectly good too. reason forcominghere, themeat although 17, dinner$27-30; to escape your accommodation. can sitdownandeatinthebackifyouneed Cathay Cinema Cathay Food&Wine, See p176 , forsomeself- Jerusalem Café Landing Black Olive Fishbone Zest Café Colonial HouseMotel Bed ofRoses h h breakfast &lunch) 3pm-late Mon-Sat) 11am-10pm Wed-Sun; 7.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-2pmSat&Sun; 7.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, h

( % 6am-5pm)

( % ( ( % ( % 09-407 1050; Kerikeri Rd; 09-407 1050;Kerikeri % ( 09-407 8479;StoneStore Basin;lunch$14- h % 09-407 6065; 88 Kerikeri Rd;meals$7-20; 09-407 6065;88Kerikeri 09-407 7164; 73 Kerikeri Rd;mains$4- 09-407 7164;73Kerikeri 09-407 9693; 308 Kerikeri Rd;meals$11- 09-407 9693;308Kerikeri Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

Stylish Fishbone agreat does ( Nab a table in the window Nab inthewindow atable

lunch &dinner) % 09-407 4666;www.bedofroses.co.nz; ( Treat yourself toamovie ( % % h 09-407 1001; Cobblestone Mall, 09-407 1001;CobblestoneMall, ( % 09-407 7266;Fairway Dr; mains p 09-407 9121;Hobson Ave; v 11am-late) 09-407 9106;www.colonial ) Much more com- ) This place serves Thisplaceserves Lovely viewsof Northland’s h 11am-9pm ps v

) ) town. Auckland (40 minutes). See itswebsite for Auckland (40minutes). See .co.nz) WiroaRd) .kerikeri-airport.co.nz; Airport Kerikeri Getting There&Away lonelyplanet.com reach tobook ahead.Only itandyou’llneed aboatorkayak toIsland, butyou’ll need 8474; dm$12,exclusive use$120) p167). (see site Islandsisapopulardiveamong theCavalli Greenpeace ship’sunderwater resting place Warrior headland isamonumenttothe Ontopoflicence andpetrolstation. thefar end of thebeach hasashopwithanoff- tered offshore. The campsite at thenorth surf beach withthe17 Islandsscat- Cavalli few kilometres It’salongsandy unsealed. caravans. or ble, withdwellingslittlemore thanshacks In somecommunitiesthepoverty ispalpa- presented of fortouristsintheBay Islands. beaches is aworldawayfromtheglitzyface awesomeroute leading inlandtothese It’s ashortdetourfromSH10,buttheloop roads. unsealed the beaten thatoften track,although means and leisurely. Here’s yourchance toget off when wevisited), summers here are long popular misnomer(itwasbucketing down While the‘winterless north’maybea in placescouldbestbedescribedasgritty. are noticeablyeconomicallydepressed and the offshore islands.Parts of theFar North line persquare kilometre thananywhere but North Islandhasmore breathtaking coast- and funding,yetthesubtropicaltipof the ofond fiddletotheBay Islandsforattention far-flung Far Northisalwaysplayingsec- If itsoundsremote, itis.The that’sbecause THE FARNORTH Mangonui ($23, 80 minutes). ($52, 4½hours), Paihia ($16,25minutes) and headtoAuckland the library.Dailyservices leave fromastoponCobham Rd,opposite prices and discounts. MATAURI &TAURANGABAYS DOC maintains a12-person maintains DOC Bay Matauri InterCity operates about four flights dailyfrom operates aboutfourflights Air NewZealand (see theboxed (see text, p181 ); the

( % is18kmoff SH10,withthelast 09-623 1503;www.intercity.co.nz)

THEFAR &Tauranga ••Matauri NORTH Bays Mp p166; (Map

( % is8kmsouthwestof 0800 737000;www.airnz onMotukawanui % 09-407 7147;www hut Rainbow (

% buses buses 09-407 picturesque beachfront, butitlackstrees and accommodationonthe has well-maintained 2) perperson$90,minimum 1963; www.seaeaglecharters.com; .taurangabay.co.nz; sitesperperson$12,cabins$50-70; tours toexplore thismagicalcoastlineof it worth the effort. up, buttheviewsmakecable topullyourself the village. Atthetopyouhave awire touse up goes car parkattheend of Rdand OldHospital also bearranged. The15m opportunities andwalks.Longer charters can are excellentbeaches, divingspots,snorkelling Islands,whereday tripstotheCavalli there per person$85,$180minimum) p182). text, theboxed species(see least-sustainable –stripedmarlinisoneofonce caught NZ’s hook amarlin,insistonitbeingreleased around $1200aday.Ifyou’re planningto fishing but alsoactsasatourist information office. 0230; WhangaroaRd; monster.Marvin–sized locate your shoulderwhiletryingtolandaLee of NZ’,meaningit’sapopularplacetodis- the‘Marlinfrom SH10andcallsitself Capital The smallfishingvillage of Whangaroais6km is thenarrowentranceto Whangaroa Harbour. Just aroundtheheadlandfromTauranga Bay or toneighbouring Whangaroa. extra per person. is available inconjunctionwithtours for$20 coves, caves sea andislands.Accommodation tours$85) .northlandseakayaking.co.nz; Bay, campsites andaseven-night minimum stay. there’s aminimum$45charge for pernight bears thebruntof theweather. InJanuary isapeachythe sand pink colour. turn-off to lage andasuccessionof littlebays before the Te pleasant west, passingthrough Ngaire vil- provided; bring else. everything water, mattresses andacompostingtoiletare WAGRA HARBOUR WHANGAROA runsa similar service. An excellent30-minute hike fromthe starts Down aprivate roadleadingfromTauranga onthemainroadroute headsBack Snow Cloud There are plentyof charter boatsfor There’s parts nopublictransporttothese Tauranga BayHolidayPark Northland Sea Kayaking Sea Northland (December to April). Prices start at (DecembertoApril).Pricesstart St Paul’s Rock Tauranga Bay

( % h 09-405 1663;www.snowcloud.co.nz; 8am-7pm) (213m),which dominates , an11myacht, makes , asmallerbeach where Boyd Gallery isthegeneral store

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( % Sea Eagle Sea % 09-405 0436;www 09-405 0381;www offers kayak ( (

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BAY OF ISLANDS ISLANDS OF BAY NORTHLAND & THE THE & NORTHLAND NORTHLAND & THE BAY OF ISLANDS which has16beds,coldshowers andcom- and willpick youupfrom Kaeo on SH10. spa withajaw-dropping view,hires outkayaks Whangaroa, thisfriendly lodge hasasublime d $50-60,units$100-250; .co.nz; OldHospital Rd; sitesperperson$14,dm/s/tr$22/50/75, Lodge Sunseeker Sleeping &Eating ahead. book and else posting toilets.Bringeverything DOC’s land, hillsandshoreline before arrivingat bay. Thetwo-hourhike farm- through passes NorthontheothersideofRd inTotara the beginsnearthechurchBay hallonCampbell 180 4 1 3 2 THE FARNORTH The WairakautracknorthtoPekapeka H A OT • DutesBy THE FAR ••DoubtlessBay NORTH Te WerahiBeach Lane Cove Cottage Lane Cove SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES kh saeWnr...... C4 Okahu EstateWinery...... Tapotupotu BayCampsite...... Rusty Anchor...... Rockhouse...... Rarawa BeachCampsite...... Kapowairua Campsite...... Houhora Lodge...... Farmstay Backpackers...... Ratana Temple...... Karikari Estate...... Gumdiggers Park...... Cape ReingaAdventures...... Ancient KauriKingdom...... van Diemen Cape Maria ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Cape Reinga AC

Cape Reinga ( Lighthouse % T ASMN Te Paki Stream 09-405 0496;www.sunseekerlodge 13 S EA pi Te PakiRecreational Tapotupotu ( Bay Te Paki % ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ Reserve Spirits Kapowairua 09-407 8474;dm$12) Bay 13 12 11 10 ) 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Shenstone Up thehillin Forest The Bluff A1 D3 D3 C2 B1 C3 C3 B2 D3 C3 B2 C3 Ninety MileBeach Landing Waitiki 2 Aupouri (Thom's Landing) Karatia Forest B ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲ Mokaikai Scenic 9 Kerr Point Te Hapua Reserve Te Kao Peninsula Aupouri Tauroa Point Forest Te Kao Ὀ Ngataki , Surville 1F Cliffs 6 Waihopo Harbour Parengarenga Te Raupo Hukatere Houhora Waipapakauri pub with good honest tucker served from pub withgoodhonesttucker served Cap’n. It’sabloodybig bayatthat,with a Cap’n. body of water was‘doubtlessabay’. Noshit, in Cook’slogbook, where he wrote thatthe The bay gets itsunusualname fromanentry pop 6030 bistro. its dinner $15-27; kayaks ($40 per day). foodandhasexcellent homemadeItalian up this hostel hasagreat reputation, serves 10km northof toWhangaroa, theturn-off farms.co.nz; dm/s$25/47,d&tw$60-80) DUTES BAY DOUBTLESS Peninsula Pukenui Tauroa North Cape Ahipara 10 Kahoe Farms Hostel Kahoe Rarawa Beach Marlin Beach 7 Ahipara Great Exhibition Aupouri Beach Waiharara Forest Bay Ahipara Henderson Point 8 Waipapakauri Henderson Bay Herekino Heads Houhora

Bay ( Greenville Point Motutangi % Junction Wainui Houhora Harbour h Awanui 09-405 0347;WhangaroaRd;lunch$12-16, 3 Kaitaia Rangaunu Pukepoto lunch &dinner) Bay Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Rangaunu Harbour P ACIF 1 Kaimaumau O CEAN 5 S OUTH Rangiputa 0 0 Puheke Kaitaia Airport Beach

( % 1 09-405 1804;www.kahoe Peninsula Karikari 12 Afriendlylocal Tokerau Beach 11 Doubtless Bay Whatuwhiwhi 4 Matai Bay D OnSH10, 12 miles 20 km Internet accessfor$2per 20 minutes. Mangonui; Mangonui; Rd, 406 2046;www.doubtlessbay.co.nz; 118Waterfront labelled lineof historicalwaterfront build- cafés andgiftshops nowinfesting itswell- Shark’), retains afishing-port feel, despite towards the Karikari Peninsula. string of pretty swimmingbeaches heading lonelyplanet.com lead toattractive in22historicsites.walk taking Otherwalks information centre fora3kmself-guided Grab thefree Sights &Activities Post Office Doubtless Bayvisitorinformationcentre Information beachside gentrification. Beach wood and gum. dustry (1792–1850)andexported flax,kauri Mangonui wasacentre of thewhalingin- ings. Theywere constructed inthedayswhen The popular holiday settlements ofThe popularholidaysettlements The maincentre, once-proud boatsitsatopaMaori once-proud murdered campaignerendures inapeacefulbird hide inThames. Ahaunting memorialtothe were boughtbytheDargaville Museum,where theyare proudlydisplayed.The memoryofthe Cavalli Islands,where they cannowbeexplored bydivers. The mastsofthisoceanic crusader ists. Bang!–aninnocentmandead,a boat sunkandinternational outrage. in theFar They were North. driven toAuckland inaKombivanbyFrench agentsposingastour- delivered themupfromasubmarine)Parengarenga byayacht(whichhadpicked Harbour sentence, theyreturned toFrancereceive ahero’swelcome. island asiftheyhadwonatriptoClubMed.Withintwoyears,andwellbefore theendoftheir two terrorists, andinafarcicalturnofevents theagentswere imprisonedonaFrench Pacific political andeconomicmight(includingboycottsofNZgoods)toforce torepatriate the world wars,butbecausetheagentshadbeencaughtandimprisoned.The French usedalltheir a deliberate ofterrorism andlethalact onthesoil ofanationthathadfoughtforthemintwo captured, triedandfoundguilty.The othershave never beenbroughttojustice. Fernando activist sives tothesideofshipandsankher,killing Pereira. testing. French officers,intheemployof French secret government, service attachedexplo- preparing tosail toMoruroaAtoll nearTahitiMarsden Wharf, toprotest againstFrench nuclear a maninAuckland Harbour. The Greenpeace flagship On themorningof10July1985,NewZealanders tonewsthataterrorist awoke attackhadkilled THE BOMBINGOFRAINBOWWARRIOR story atwww.rainbow-warrior.org.nz. The remains skeletal ofthe wasthestaging pointforthisdeadlymission.ExplosivesNorthland forthesabotagewere The incidentcausedanuproarinFrance– notbecausetheFrench government hadconducted whathadhappened,buttwooftheterroristsIt tooksometimetofindoutexactly were French nucleartesting atMoruroa ceasedforgoodin1996.Youcanfind outmore aboutthe , Cable Bay Cable h

(Beach Rd,Mangonui) 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat,10am-5pmSun) Heritage Trail Heritage and THEFAR ••DoubtlessBay NORTH Mill Bay Mill Taipa Mangonui are restful pockets of , westof Mangonui, brochure fromthe (meaning‘Big Rainbow Warrior pa ( site at Matauri Bay, north of theBayofIslands. site atMatauri Bay,north % Coopers 09- were beautiful tothewaters taken ofNorthland’s sralnd cousins. streamlined phinrendezvous.co.nz; Mangonui Wharf; 4hr/full-day trip 4hr/full-daytrip Wharf; Mangonui phinrendezvous.co.nz; disenz.co.nz) person (minimum charge $600). or overnight furtherafieldfor$150per cruises onthe13myachtsix-hour sails Bay;perperson$75-100) Mill .sailingchartersnz.co.nz; $90/145) Member of Parliament. and becameatrader,farmer,magistrate and ship. He here settled in1839,had13children ofwas 14andat24captain awhaling whenhe Butler,left Dorset owner, Captain homestead (1843)withlovely gardens.Itsfirst $12/2; Rd;adult/child 406 0006;www.butlerpoint.co.nz; Marchant tour aroundthesmall is tothetopofBay the of AwalkwayrunsfromMill Doubtless Bay. cient Maori terracing view andaspectacular and Teddy BearSailingCharters Butler Point Paradise Connexion Dolphin Rendezvous At Hihi,15kmnortheastof Mangonui, Rangikapiti Pa Historic Reserve Pa Historic Rangikapiti Rainbow Warrior h sets youupforawatery trystwithour sets by appointment) has4WDbustours upNinetyMile , where you cantake aguided hadbeenanchored at

, housed inaVictorian , housed

( pa % ( % Whaling Museum . 0800 494392;www.para 0800 732432;www.dol

( % 09-406 1554;www Mr Roosevelt , withan- (

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BAY OF ISLANDS ISLANDS OF BAY NORTHLAND & THE THE & NORTHLAND NORTHLAND & THE BAY OF ISLANDS .puketitilodge.co.nz; 10 Puketiti Dr, Mangonui; dm/s/d/tw Dr,Mangonui; .puketitilodge.co.nz; 10Puketiti village, just after the Hihi turn-off. land atMidgleyRd, 6kmsouthof Mangonui luxurious thanthe priceimplies.Turnin- The private en-suite roomsare much more backpack and,most surprisingly,breakfast. views, alocker fortheburliest bigenough opening ontoalarge deckwithawesome a comfybunkinspacioussix-person dorm by flash-packing,bringiton.For$40 youget $40/90/130/130; haunted, which addstoits charm.rough ($15 to$18),andthebuildingisreputedly café andbardownstairs offers bistromeals ofen suites) upanarrowflight stairs. The tion andwornprivate rooms(somewith pheric 1861kauriinnhasabackpacker sec- dm$30-35,s$40,d$80-100) Mangonui; Old OakInn BUDGET months thingssettle down considerably. being noble exceptions.Outsideof thepeak summer –thefollowingrecommendations the baybutmostishorriblyoverpriced in There’s plentyof accommodationaround Sleeping golf. or terests, wine whethertheybesightseeing, a4WDtourtoyourin- you cancustomise Reinga(see toCape Beach p184 ). Otherwise 182 o for aseafoodchow-down. best andworstchoicesifyou’re hankering able fromitswebsite. The followingare the annual 200 064;www.forestandbird.org.nz) Forest &BirdProtection Society unsustainable atpresent levels. The quick topointoutthatmostfishingisstill groupsaretrolled thanmost,conservation While NZ’sfisheriesare more tightlycon- FISH FORTHEFUTURE

H A OT • DutesBy THE FAR ••DoubtlessBay NORTH rig/lemonfish, stripedmarlin,scampi snapper,swordfish,oreos, shark,hoki, Ten worst lobster/crayfish rock eyed mullet,cockles,kahawai, yellow- tuna,garfish, mackerel, skipjack Ten best Best Fish Guide Puketiti Lodge Puketiti

pi Kina, anchovy, Kina, pilchard,blue ( % Orangeroughy,bluefintuna, 09-406 0665; 66 Waterfront Rd, 09-406 0665;66Waterfront Ifthisiswhattheymean ) , whichisdownload-

( % 09-406 0369;www publishesan Thisatmos- ( % Royal 0800 Rd) .mangonuiwaterfront.co.nz; Waterfront Rd;apt$160-280; Waterfront .mangonuiwaterfront.co.nz; Waterfront hasaninventive menu,water scattered aroundtheotherbeaches, but There are afew andstores cafés,takeaways Eating have terrific harbour-admiring balconies. different. TrytobookTahi orRua–they waterfront have loadsof character, each one painted historicapartmentsontheMangonui p on to Coopers Beach. in anewenclave of upmarket homesbacking its ownprivate barbecuearea. You’llfindit apartmenthasstyle–and this self-contained .com; 3BaysideDr;r$125; ing a nice cuppa. andfacilitiesformak- Rooms have cableTV pled withB&B-stylefriendliness andfood. hillside lodge offers motel-style privacycou- thisA 10-minute walkfromCoopers Beach, lessbaylodge.co.nz; 33CableBayBlockRd;s/d$80/110; with views. sea the upstairs one;it’ssmallbuthasabalcony Tryfor house. rooms inaCoopers Beach unremarkable butreasonably priceden-suite 136 SH10;r$80; Rosie’s MIDRANGE &TOPEND friendly but sometimes haphazard. is elegantly rusticatmosphere. Theservice decentdishesinan restaurant andbarserves 19, dinner$19-30; with citrus ($17). hollandaise For breakfast trythemarket fishonspinach andold-worldcharm. views, friendlyservice 9.30pm) Rd;brunch$7-20,dinner$24-29; Waterfront with all willberight the world. and andacoldbeer, Grab acrayfish salad smoked salads. also sells fish andseafood famous fish-and-chip shop,which servedly doors over andde- thewater inthislicensed meals $5-25; they’re actually pretty great. Mangonui hasthebesteatingoptions–and o Fish Shop Mangonui Apartments Waterfront Bayside Studio Doubtless BayLodge There’s a Galley next tothe post office. ) Sleeping two to eight people, these gaily people,these twotoeight Sleeping ( ThebestcaféintheFar North, % ( % Waterfront Café &Bar Café Waterfront h 09-406 1443; [email protected]; 09-406 1443;[email protected]; 09-406 1233; 118 Waterfront Rd;brunch$10- 09-406 1233;118Waterfront Four Square supermarket Four Square p 8.30am-8.30pm) h

( Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels ) InformalRosie’soffers two % 8.30am-1am) 09-406 1410;baysidestudio@gmail ( p

% ( % ) Itmaybesmallbut 09-406 0478; Waterfront Rd; 09-406 0478;Waterfront

09-406 1661;www.doubt Thislovely-looking ( Youcaneatout- % 09-406 0347;www

( % 09-406 0850; h

(Waterfront (Waterfront 7.30am- p

) flat water before headingto the surf. peninsula; learners get tohone their skillson white sand and crystal-clear sheltered andcrystal-clear white sand waters west attheelbowof thepeninsula. Thepure Taipa. from bal prelude tothescreenings. It’s7km inland tiny cinemaisquite theexperience,withaver- SwampPalace Cinema Entertainment Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels p180; to Matai Impressive Bay. is theluxurygolfclub andwineryontheway ( experienced crew at boarding, oratleastthat’stheopinion of the one of theworld’spremium spotsforkite- Karikari’s northern edge. stretch of dunesforming snow-white sand to remote takes you A turn-off ontheroadtoRangiputa fromaPacificcome straight Islanddaydream. swellto but withenough body surf. for swimming–sheltered forthekids enough road.It’sagreatsula downanunsealed spot est of themall,atthelonelyendof thepenin- Bay Matai more built-up, facingbackacrossthebay. Neighbouring forming thewestern edge of DoubtlessBay. won’t findalotof shopsor eateries either. erators. There’s nopublictransportandyou with farmers welloutnumberingtouristop- thepeninsula’sblissfully undeveloped, assets, justswapbeaches. Despitesunset, itsnatural ora or youwanttocatch somesurf,asunrise proximity;close ifthewind’sannoyingyou beaches facingnorth,south,eastandwestin into anear-perfect angle. right The result is The oddlyshaped Karikari Peninsula bends KARIKARI PENINSULA andoutsidetheShell Bay station in Taipa. opposite theshopinCable in Coopers Beach, alsostopoutsidethewholesalers services same minutes) andKerikeri ($23,80minutes). The Rd inMangonui, travelling toKaitaia ($20,40 onWaterfront station stop attheBPservice InterCity Getting There&Away $150/275) % An ominoussignof creeping gentrification makesThis uniquesetup Karikari Peninsula Beach Tokerau A close second-best beach,A close 021 202 7949; [email protected]; 1-/2-daycourse 021 2027949;[email protected]; % . You can chase thewindaround . Youcanchase 09-408 7222; www.karikariestate.co.nz; Matai Bay Matai 09-408 7222; www.karikariestate.co.nz;

( , withitstinytwincoves, istheloveli- % Puheke Beach Puheke 09-623 1503;www.intercity.co.nz) Whatuwhiwhi isthelong,lovely stretch (

% Doubtless Bay Kitesurf School Doubtless BayKitesurf 09-408 7040;OruruRd) , along,windswept Karikari Estate Karikari issmallerand THE FAR NORTH •• Karikari Peninsula THEFAR ••Karikari NORTH Rangiputa buses buses This faces

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hammered together. tobecomea Itlooksset the timeof research thisplacewasstillbeing red winesandhas a café attached. the beach. Thefacilitiesare good,theman- location, sheltered byhills andoverlooking toilets and cold water. up to 10m high instormyweather.up to10m high Atthevery breakingOcean meet, together into waves the waters of theTasman and Pacific Sea feeling. Thisiswherea real end-of-the-world and lookingoutover theendless oceangives atwindswept Standing Sights flanked bythe Aupouri Forest. tinuous stretch dunes, sand linedwithhigh would bemore accurate)Beach isacon- coast (NinetyKilometre Ninety MileBeach form NZ’snorthernextremity. Onitswest bles one–longandthin,itreaches 108kmto resem-a giantdivingboard,anditcertainly homeland. Thatmakes theAupouriPeninsula they departonthejourneytotheirspiritual pointforsoulsas Wairua) thejumping-off Maori consider Reinga(TeCape Rerenga- CAPE REINGA&NINETYMILEBEACH the white sand. stairs andwithinafew steps yourfeet willfind Is thatnearlyashagpile? There’s ashop down- woodenunits. comfortable style imbuesthese Beach;units$165-225; 408 7580;Rangiputa hire. for andthereagement isefficient are kayaks sites $40,units$70-300; 7202; www.whatuwhiwhitop10.co.nz; WhatuwhiwhiRd; laid-back, friendly host. en-suitecomfortable accommodationanda SH10,which1km off hasunusualbutvery just atthisguesthouse, Hundertwasser meets clear.net.nz; InlandRd;dm$25; laundromat aspartof the complex. information centre, and bar,café,takeaways one-stop backpackers’ haven, withavisitor $30, d&tw$90-110,tr$120-140,q$150-170; anchor.co.nz; BeachRd;sitesperperson$14,dm 1Tokerau p DOC campsite Sleeping &Eating Rd; tastings$10; Rusty Anchor Whatuwhiwhi Top10HolidayPark White SandsMotorLodge White Rockhouse ) Alarge campinggroundwithchemical (

% Mp p180; (Map h

Mp p180; (Map 09-408 6014; Matai Bay;adult/child$8/4; 09-408 6014;Matai 11am-5pm) p % ) This parkhasagreat % producesacclaimed Cape Reinga lighthouse Reinga Cape p 09-406 7151;rochousian@

( % 09-406 7141;www.rusty ) Fred Flintstone 09-408 7080;fax09- p

Seventies Seventies pi ( ) % 09-408 183 At )

BAY OF ISLANDS ISLANDS OF BAY NORTHLAND & THE THE & NORTHLAND NORTHLAND & THE BAY OF ISLANDS .co.nz; Heath Rd,Waiharara;adult/child $10/5; park and linoleum)buried beneath. formaking varnish much-prized gum(used 100,000 years, leaving ancientlogsandthe moon. crescent emblemof and thestar and theRatana ers (Arepa andOmeka,alphaomega) amosque,withitstwodomed tow- sembles oncestood.Itre-built onlandwhere Ratana as ‘themouthpieceof God’.Thistemple is Tahupotiki whowasknown Wiremu Ratana, than 50,000adherents, formedin1925by isaMaori withmore Christiansect Ratana Mangai (theSacred Steps of theMouthpiece). 6576 Far Rd) North of Reinga,stands Cape Harbour. Parengarenga land orapproach bykayakfrom thesand a no publicroadaccess,butsometours pay dazzling snow-white silicadunes.There’s pick upDOC’s them. Formore onwalksinthearea details down thedunesortoboggan ing leapsoff of Te Paki Stream. Clamberuptotake fly- dunesoneithersideofgiant sand themouth don’t disturbtheanimals.There are 7sqkmof access; leave thegates asyoufoundthemand Reinga ispartof the Bay walk to FromTapotupotucliffs. it’saneight-hour Bay andthe east of Reinga,viaSandyBay Cape Beautiful loop) takes youtothewesternmost point. to Beach further totheeast.AwalkalongTe Werahi Cliffs country; thathonourbelongstoSurville isn’t actuallythenorthernmostpointof the box is OK though. what mustsurely beNZ’smostremote mail- anywhere inthearea. Posting aletter from the tree andrefrain fromeatingordrinking most sacred site inMaoridom, don’tgonear to slidedownitsroots.Outof respect tothe year-old tip of thecapeisaspirituallysignificant800- 184 bohr ($1). brochure It’spubliclandwithfree managed byDOC. koha A large chunk of thelandaroundCape Reinga Cape Contrary toexpectation, Kauri forests covered thisarea forover On theeastcoast, Beside the highway at Te thehighway Beside Kao, 46kmsouth . Bothbaysare alsoaccessible by road.

Mp p180; (Map H A OT • Cp ena&Nnt ieBah THE FAR Beach &NinetyMile ••CapeReinga NORTH (donation)tocrossMaori farm- Kapowairua pohutukawa tree pohutukawa Tapotupotu Bay Cape Maria vanDiemen Maria Cape , knownasNga-Tapuwae-Ote- % Cape Reinga&Te Paki Walks 09-406 7166;www.gumdiggerspark attheeastern endof Te Paki Recreation Reserve Te Recreation Paki Great ExhibitionBay Great Ratana temple Ratana isatwo-hourwalk ; soulsare believed (five hours Gumdiggers h Mp p180; (Map

9am-4pm) Spirits Spirits has

at 8.30amand returning at 5.30pm. departing Beachto CapeReinga, upNinetyMile Mangonui nz.co.nz; adult/child$69/39)Operates4WD bustoursfrom ($80for24hours)and kayaks sandboards ($20). ($150to$220).Theyalsohire as dayorovernighttrips anddune-surfing quadbiking horsetrekking, snorkelling, hiking, men who offer 4WDtours,fishing,kayaking, action $85/135) Real Thom’s Landing;half-/full-day4WDtrips 8445; www.capereingaadventures.co.nz; Far Rd, North tours are available($350).Prices include lunch. atAhipara. Personalised 4WD Beach,starting Ninety Mile intheentire lengthof adult/child $55/28)Smallbusestake [email protected]; GumdiggersCafé,AhiparaRd; person access fee). can visitremote areas suchasGreat ExhibitionBay($10per for$550(uptosixpeople),includinglunch.You Kaitaia Flexible,day-longtours from www.farnorthtours.co.nz) the unsealed roadnorthofthe unsealed Waitiki Landing. or ofdriving onthesands NinetyMileBeach here andmany car-rental companiesprohibit p168 ). There’s nootherpublictransportup Ahipara, Mangonui of andtheBay Islands(see Reinga fromKaitaia,Bus tours gotoCape Tours level. mezzanine intoitthattakes youtothe carved staircase and workshop. Ahuge kauriloghasaspiral The large complexincludesacafé,giftshop woodcraft productsandafairbitof touristtat. from swamps,are fashionedintofurniture, 50,000-year-old kauristumps,dragged up Awanui; Kingdom bedding and clothing. workers, fortheirtents, jute sacks whoused left bythediggers. Itwasahardlife forthe diggers’ huts,ancientkauristumpsandholes the bush,leadingpastreproductions of gum- the gumindustry.Ropepaths headthrough the trees, theirmysterious destructionand with the15-minute videotelling thestoryof were holesallover digging Northland.Start gumboots –theNZnameforWellingtons) In 1900,some7000gumdiggers (wearing main industryfromthe1870sto1920s. covers amajor site gum-digging –theregion’s Paradise Connexion sand tobogganinganda picnic lunch. thatinclude adult/child$45/25)Daybustrips Rd, Kaitaia; Runner Cape Harrison’s OutbackAdventure Far North Adventures Reinga Cape Adventures Ahipara Safari It’s tacky andoverpriced,It’s tacky but h

Mp p180; (Map 8.30am-5pm) ( % % isstillworthastop.Here ( 09-406 7172;229Far Rd, North (Map (Map p180 ; 0800 494392;www.paradise % ( % 0800 227 373; 123 North 0800 227373;123North ( % 0800 287868;gum- lonelyplanet.com 09-408 0927; % Ancient Kauri Ancient Kauri 09-409 Festivals &Events Sand Safaris Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels stylish architect-designed home are airy and .topstay.co.nz; 3994 SH1;r$180; the decentbutstandard motel units. cient TV. It’samore charming prospect than filled withmismatched furniture andanan- backpackers occupiesahistoricvilla(1891) units $114-124; dm/r$23/60, Rd,Pukenui; nuilodge.co.nz; cnrSH1&Wharf doesn’t DOC spring for. camping groundwiththekindof facilitiesthat tered bushlandatthiswelcoming,good-value $12/6, cabins$55-75; land-camping.co.nz; sitesperadult/child 34LambRd,Pukenui; – fantasies within reason. indulgerooms. Youcaneven yourmilkmaid worshipping verandaset- andthree guest withasun- road isthissimplewoodenhouse $20/56; LambRd, Pukenui; [email protected]; sandflies. and of repellent mosquitoes theevil towardoff a cooker, asfires are notallowed,andplenty water and toilet facilitiesare provided. Bring Tapotupotu Only Beach. andRarawa Bay are stunninglypositionedsites atKapowairua, and Waitiki Landing. Kauri Kingdom( opposite ), Houhora Heads tions are unremarkable eateries atAncient andsuperette.takeaways Theonlyotherop- best placetofillyours; there’s adecentcafé, Pukenui. Literally ‘BigStomach’, it’salsothe find much decentaccommodationnorthof Unless you’re ahappycamperyouwon’t Sleeping &Eating pursued. angrily returning withtwofullbaskets after being to steal kumarafromtheTe people, Rarawa length of thebeach fromTe Kao toAhipara Te agreat Houtaewa, runnerwhoranthe Itsoriginisthestoryof Ninety MileBeach. competition,takes placealong surf-canoe (www.newzealand-marathon.co.nz) In March lunch andaguidedtourof Gumdiggers Park. includingapicnic owned operationrunningcoachtrips, adult/child$65/35)Afamily- 221 CommerceSt,Kaitaia; Houhora Lodge LodgeMotel Pukenui DOC campsites Pukenui HolidayPark Pukenui Farmstay Backpackers p ) Just2kmdownamostlyunsealed Te Houtaewa Challenge & Waka Ama Te HoutaewaChallenge&Waka ( pis % (Map (Map p180 ; adult/child$7/3.50) 0800 869090;www.sandsafaris.co.nz;

p Mp p180; (Map ) Relaxamongtheshel- ) Thisclean,welcoming

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Mp p180 ; (Map % pi 09-409 8803;www.north 09-409 8837;www.puke % , amarathonand THEFAR ••Kaitaia NORTH 09-409 7884;www Roomsinthis ) % 09-409 7863; There

dm/r Aupouri Peninsula. at Thepetrolstation old yellow-and-purple-trimmed cottage with St; dm$26,s$50-60,d & tw$56-64; ( tastings. free &AwaroaRds; cnr Okahu p180; (Map including amassive 1769 anchor. lectic mixof exhibitsfocusingonlocalhistory, 1403; 6SouthRd;admission$4; Nearby, the ternet accessand informationontheregion. .co.nz; JayceePark, SouthRd; opposite ). (see ReingaandNinetyMileBeach tours toCape fice orATM. It’salsoajumping-off pointfor stop ifyou’re after asupermarket, postof- out inthisprovincial town,butit’sahandy Nobody comestotheFar Northtohang pop 5630 knownto hasbeen Waitiki Landing run out. hire. 4WD you. Enquire atTuatuaTours ( p186 ) about stuck, yourhire-car insurancewon’tcover at Te Paki Stream –keep moving. Ifyouget side of tide. Watch high outfor‘quicksand’ before out;avoid setting it2½hours either Checktidetimes thesands. poking through by thetides–lookoutforunfortunate vehicles knowntohitsoft andbeswallowed been sand suited torugged vehicles.itself, have Cars car parkto the lighthouse. end of theroadthere’s a1kmwalkfromthe pleted until 2012;prepare for delays.Atthe wards. Thisproject isn’texpected tobecom- Reingaandheadingback- fromCape starting The final21kmare currently beingsealed, asfarWaitikiLanding. (SH1F) issealed there’s nopublictransport.Far NorthRd Apart fromnumeroustours (see opposite ), Getting There&Around KAITAIA % mi road. main lodge situated 2kmsouthof Pukenui onthe of thewood-fired pizzaoven. You’llfindthe one tokickbackonitafter makinggooduse forsome- escape, withadeckthat’sbegging attractive. Itmakes anidealspotforaquiet Just southof Kaitaia, Fill upwithpetrolbefore hittingthe The othermajor route isNinetyMileBeach Maori carvings aboundat Maori carvings The 09-408 1275;www.mainstreetlodge.co.nz; 235Commerce Far North i-SITE Far North % Far North Regional Museum Regional Far North 09-408 2066; www.okahuestate.co.nz; 09-408 2066;www.okahuestate.co.nz; h

( % h noon-4pm Mon-Fri) h 09-408 0879;www.topofnz Okahu Estate Winery Estate Okahu 8.30am-5pm) 10am-4pm) pi Mainstreet Lodge Mainstreet hasanec- , agroovy ) ( hasin- %

offers offers 09-408 185

BAY OF ISLANDS ISLANDS OF BAY NORTHLAND & THE THE & NORTHLAND NORTHLAND & THE BAY OF ISLANDS quad bikes ($60 per hour). yachtingblokarts forsand ($50perhour)and bikes ($10perhour),kayaks ($10perhour), 5pm) St; 15Takahe .ahipara.co.nz/adventurecenter; Centre Ahipara Adventure Activities the Tauroa Peninsula. the dunesabove Ahipara andfurtheraround and quad-bike ridesare popularactivitieson once worked. beach Sandtobogganing, safaris and massive gumfield,where 2000people area dunes sand isknownforitsmountainous rubbing shoulders withvisitingsurfers. The but mostlyit’sjustthelocalskeeping itreal, town. Afew holidaymansionshave snuckin, itatthisspunkybeach does Ninety MileBeach All goodthingsmustcometoanend,and pop 1000 AHIPARA Kerikeri ($31,onehourand 40 minutes). travelling toMangonui ($20,40minutes) and 623 1503;www.intercity.co.nz) airport is6kmnorthof Kaitaia. Kaitaiafor prices)between andAuckland.The (45minutes, checkhas dailyflights website bar. salad ice, awide-rangingmenuandwell-stocked serv- best placetoeatintown,withdelightful $16-30; friendly owners knowthe area inside-out. a modernwingfacingtherear courtyard.The 186 Beachcomber Ahipara isn’t served bypublictransport. Ahipara isn’tserved Air NewZealand Dargaville andWestAuckland. Urlich andformerAllBlackFranoBotica. You’llfindlarge Tarara communitiesintheFar North, clans thathave leftseveral singerMargaret oftoday’sfamousMaoriwithCroatiansurnames,like ‘ta-ra-ra-ra-ra’toMaoriears.like ManyCroatianmenmarriedlocal of injusticeatthehandscolonialpowers. lage life, withitsemphasisonextended familyandhospitality,nottomentionashared history Here theyfoundanechoofDalmatianvil- Not sointhesmallMaoricommunitiesofnorth. duringWWI–theywere consideredwelcoming tothenewimmigrants,particularly Austrians. gumfields. Pakeha ManyendedupinNorthland’s forwork. societywasn’tparticularly NZ looking of themore inthecountry. peculiarethnicconjunctions in ‘-ich’. As you’re youmightnoticethepreponderance travelling ofroadnamesending aroundthenorth NGATI TARARA hires andsurfboards,mountain outsand- H A OT • Aiaa THE FAR ••Ahipara NORTH The Maori jokingly namedthemTarara,The Maorijokingly sounded astheirrapidconversation inSerbo-Croat arrivinginFrom theendof19thcentury,menfromDalmatiancoastCroatiastarted h lunch Mon-Fri, dinnerMon-Sat) lunch Mon-Fri, Haere mai,dobrodošli (

% ( % 09-408 2010;222CommerceSt;mains 0800 737000;www.airnz.co.nz) buses stop at the i-SITE, stopatthei-SITE, buses

( % 09-409 2055;www and welcome (as the sign leading into Kaitaia proclaims)toone andwelcome(asthesignleadingintoKaitaia InterCity iseasilythe h ( 9.30am- %

09-

11 KororaSt;apt$140-210; www.ahiparamotorcamp.co.nz; 170 Takahe St;sitesper 170Takahe www.ahiparamotorcamp.co.nz; &MotorCamp Ahipara Backpackers Sleeping companies. hire withoutriskingthewrathof regularBeach day) sothatvisitors canexplore NinetyMile are planstoprovide 4WDhire ($250per gum-field (cheaper safaris fortwo).There and dune-ridertours and mouth foritsreef- .co.nz; $125) AhiparaRd;2hrride self in self the view. your-apartment, orjust lieinbedandlose studioortwo-bedroom your self-contained subtropical garden tothebeachfront from ($20). Bookaheadorbe very sorry. are available, andsurfboards canbehired race. Free andsandboards boogieboards onthevine-coveredlong table backter- encouragingbondingaround theTV, into Northland’sbesthostel. There’s no beautifullyrestoredbeen andconverted beach, thissuperbkaurivilla(1880)has $25, d&tw$60-66; 4181; www.endlesssummer.co.nz; 245Foreshore Rd;dm and colourful murals. lodge. Thecommunalhall hasanopenfire a wornbutperfectly presentable backpackers holiday park,includingonsite caravans and of accommodationonoffer atthiswell-run 60, cabins$30-205; person $14,caravans$20-90,dm$26,s$46-50,d&tw$56- Beach Abode o Tuatua Tours See alsoAhiparaSafariAdventures,See p184 . Endless SummerLodge ( %

pi ( Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels % wahine pi 09-409 4070;www.beachabode.co.nz; 09-409 4875;www.tuatuatours p ) There’s alarge range (women),founding ) Wander through the Wanderthrough ) gets great word-of- Acrossfromthe (

( 09-409 4864; % 09-409 nz; 14Kotare St;apt$175-300; the beach. upto Bothsleep four people. stunning viewsandthere’s direct accessto apartmentshave upmarket, self-contained it’s abitbourgeois two forAhipara?These lonelyplanet.com Logging inPuketiLogging was stopped in1951 to ofform acontinuous expanse native bush. harbour, the Puketi Forests andOmahuta Inland fromthe eastern reaches of the Puketi &Omahuta Forests EASTERN HOKIANGA the waymanyof thelocals like it. country remarkably which undeveloped, is leaving thistrulyfascinatingcorner of the channelled of eastward totheBay Islands, government bodies. Tourismdollars are in poorrepair after decadesof neglectfrom scene. artistic 1960s andtheirlegacyisathrivinglittle inthelatethe 14thcentury.Hippiessettled byNgapuhisince settled Kupe, it’sbeen turies. Discovered bylegendary explorer many inletsastheyhave doneforcen- communities nestlearoundtheharbour’s place here. Isolated, predominantly Maori from themainstream. Pretension hasno is thepocket thatfeels themostremoved that feed it. colour of ginger alefromthebushstreams isrenderedand brown.Thewater itself the landscape ispainted shade inevery of green biggest inthecountry.Itsruggedly beautiful skinny tentacles tobecomethefourth- The Hokianga Harbour stretches outits HOKIANGA (p184). Adventures It’s alsotheheadquarters of AhiparaSafari are thehallmarksof thisfunkynewcafé. $6-16; attached. store ters, andfish. scallops,mussels There’s a mouth –it’sjam-packed withbattered oys- burgerto fitBidz’seafood ($10)intoyour 10; Bidz Takeaways Eating Beachfront Many of theroadsremain and unsealed Of alltheremote partsof Northland, this Gumdiggers Café h h 7.30am-late) 7am-5pm)

( %

( % HOKIANGA••EasternHokianga You’ll need aflip-tophead You’llneed Goodcoffee treats andtasty 09-409 4007;www.beachfront.net.

( % 09-409 4727; Takahe St;meals$5- 09-409 4727;Takahe 09-409 2012;AhiparaRd;meals p ) Whocares if 0300; Waiare Rd;adult/child$7/3.50) Recreation Area ontheforests’ eastern hut DOC. There’s a DOC. thetracksisavailable($1) detailing from ing WaipapaRiver track).Apamphlet kauri walk)totwodays(thechalleng- (the wheelchair-accessible Manginangina tracks varyinginlengthfrom15minutes anetworkoftrances andcontain walking erally looking downonHoreke. The cheaper 1871 kaurivillawith old-worldfurnishings lit- Rd; r $95-110) Main .co.nz/riverheadguesthouse; GuestHouse Riverhead Horeke; the last3km are unsealed. valley. Theparkissignposted fromSH1and est toaplatformattheendof theboulder rainfor-An additionalhourleadsthrough andexpectafewshoes ducks andclimbs. stream. It’sagoodpath,butwearsensible and followsaburblingCoca-Cola–coloured ests. Themainlooptakes about40minutes shapes bytheacidityof ancient kauri for- tions thathave erodedintooddfluted been around andover massive rock forma- basalt garden.Paths aJurassicZen sembles lead $10/5; www.wairereboulders.co.nz; McDonnellRd;adult/child harbour from Horeke village. roadleadingalongthe down theunsealed simple woodenchurch. You’llfindit1km grounds there’s alarge stonecrossanda ies andHoreke’s shipbuildingpast.Inthe wooden cottage withrelics of the missionar- Rd; adult/child$3/1; House Waitangi. of was thesinglebiggest signingof theTreaty 1840, 3000Ngapuhigathered here forwhat sion operated here from1828to1855.In AWesleyanmis- after Russell. settlement Tiny Horeke European wasNZ’ssecond Horeke and composting toilets. fringe. Thehuthashotshowers, akitchen blue wattle)on your wanders. eye outforthisrare charmer (grey witha also theendangered kokakobird.Keep an protect notonlytheremaining kauribut You’ll feel like lordof the manorin Park BouldersNature Wairere Completed in1839, The forests are reached en- byseveral

(adult/child $9/4.50,exclusiveuse$60)

h ( % 8am-7pm summer,9am-5pmrest ofyear) 09-401 9640; www.historic.org.nz; Motukiore 09-401 9640;www.historic.org.nz; Motukiore h noon-4pm Sat&Sun) DOC (

09-401 9610;www.hokianga campsite Mangungu Mission Mission Mangungu and18-bunk ( %

atPuketi is a sweet isasweet 09-401 9935; ( % , agrand 09-407

187

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BAY OF ISLANDS ISLANDS OF BAY NORTHLAND & THE THE & NORTHLAND NORTHLAND & THE BAY OF ISLANDS can arrange tojumpon interesting pizzas and burgers. with kedgeree onthebreakfast menuand Thefood issuperb, imbedded inthe tables. and newspaperclippingsaboutthe townare like they’ve raidedfromanoldschool, been overlooking the waterfront. Thechairs look 5pm Sun-Thu, &Sat) 8am-8pmFri lounge. communal orchard orjustsinkintobeanbagsinthe bus ($48),playvolleyballinthemacadamia off theferry). inanoldschool Youcansleep the ferry terminus (turnsharpleftasyoucome and nuttrees. Thisquietretreat is2kmfrom amongexoticfruit painted little cottages set placewithhelpfulhostsandbrightly fantastic .co.nz; sites perperson$16,dm$27-29,s/d/tw$50/66/66) the car ferry ( opposite ). north sideof HokiangaHarbour, 4kmfrom daysit’saveryThese quietbackwater onthe shipyard, twonewspaperssawmill, andbanks. the kauriindustryitwasabusytownwith of Duringtheheight monstrosity tobeseen. withnaryamodern so completely preserved full of interesting kauribuildingshasbeen few placesinNZwhere aVictorianvillage Kohukohu before it’stoolate. There canbe orderon Quick, someoneslapapreservation pop 220 Kohukohu bour viewsmore than compensate. upstairs roomsshare abathroombutthehar- 188 NRHR HOKIANGA NORTHERN Waterline Café Waterline The There butyou are noregular busservices, h Springs Pools to eachother,thebetter ofwhichis peratures. Ngawhahastwocomplexes next murky water insmallpoolsofvaryingtem- showers. Here it’sallaboutstewing inthe to splashaboutin.There aren’t even any are nohydroslidesorbigpoolsforthekids War.Northland brought hisinjured warriorshere duringthe powers sincethe17thcentury.HoneHeke been usedbyNgapuhifortheircurative thesehotspringshaveNear Kaikohe, SPRINGS NGAWHA OINA • otenHkag Hokianga HOKIANGA ••Northern Unlike many of NZ’s thermal resorts, there manyofNZ’sthermalresorts, Unlike 9am-9pm) Tree House Tree . (

( % %

( % 09-405 5552;meals$7-18; 09-405 2245;adult/child$4/2; 09-405 5855;www.treehouse serves wicked coffee serves Kings’ Kings’ ( % Ngawha 0800 222979; h isa 8am- the Hokiangain1838,celebratingNZ’sfirst the altar. Jean Pompallierarrived Baptiste in bishop isburiedbeneath NZ’s first Catholic pop 515 RAWENE beach. often-deserted forexploringthe base It’s acomfortable ($25peradditionalperson).up toeight three-bedroomcontained bach, sleeping -house.co.nz; WestCoastRd;d$130; back from France. full of Maori ceremony hisremains brought pilgrimage2002 after an emotional14-week Point.Hemass atTotara wasinterred here in detour tovisit pigs, potholesandburnt-out car wrecks. is quite anexperience:prepare tododge cows, Kohukohu viaPanguru (14kmof itunsealed), Harbours The40kmdrive alltoitself. from theHokiangaandWhangape coast between has theruggedly beautiful20kmstretch of sists of ashop, only30familiesandnoteven The tinycommunityat Mitimiti, which con- Mitimiti one hourand40minutes). Call to arrange. bus at2.20pmasitheadsbacktoPaihia ($45, www.kings-tours.co.nz) out kayaks (half-/full day$30/45). Italso out kayaks (half-/full tour $65,minimum twopeople)andhires .co.nz; 49Parnell St) Trust. Places totheHistoric until 1972,whenitpassed and herdescendantsremained inthehouse £5000 debt.She managed toclearthedebt left withabroodof kidsandawhopping his 34-year-old widowJane half-Maori was shipowner andmagistrate. After hisdeath, bustling 1860sbyJames Clendon, atrader, Apr, 10am-4pmMon&Tue May-Oct) Esplanade; adult/child$5/2.50; House tion boardstours themainsights. you canget petrol here. now. There aren’t anyATMs orbanks,but harbour wasconsiderably busierthanitis cluding sixchurches) fromatimewhenthe a surprisingnumberof historicbuildings(in- ThereNZ’s thirdEuropeansettlement. isstill Founded shortlyafter Horeke, was Rawene A heritage trailcomplete withinforma- About halfwayalong,it’sworthashort Mitimiti BeachHouse Mitimiti Hokianga Blue Hokianga

( % 09-405 7874;www.historic.org.nz; Clendon St Mary’s Church St Mary’s runs kayak tours (half-day runskayaktours (half-day ( % CrossingsHokiangatour 09-405 7675;www.hokiangablue

( % h 09-409 5347;www.beach 10am-4pm Sat-MonNov- wasbuiltinthe pi (Motuti Rd) lonelyplanet.com

isaself- ) Clendon , where place withheart-warmingfood and service. looking thewater atthisexcellentcafé,acute nw books. new and clothing, music,andbothsecond-hand Parnell St; views anda kitchenette ($110). rents outastudioapartmentwithharbour Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels the hour. There are noregular bus services. andthenorthside on onthehalf-hour Rawene this 15-minute rideonboard. Itusuallyleaves at leasthourly.You canbuyyourticket for northern Hokianga, dockingnearKohukohu return $14/19,passenger$2/4; The Getting There&Away ( organic fruit,vegetables andmeat at western music. local pub,withoccasionallive country-and- mains $5-15; Boatshed Café Eating &Drinking in the off-season. quest. Roompricesare much more palatable three-course dinner($70)orasongonre- and musicianswhowilldeliver asumptuous nearby. Theowners are enthusiasticcooks has finelinenandariverside swimminghole thisluxuryB&B 23km southeastof Rawene, .co.nz; 2465SH12;s/d$310/340; er’s workshop downstairs. dress,after aglamcocktail check outtheown- apartment behindthehistoricstore. Ifyou’re accommodation isoffered inaself-contained Clendon Esplanade;r$120) offered inthislovely kauri villa. veranda are allpartof theold-worldcharm rolled-end leathercouches andawraparound high-ceilinged rooms,four-poster beds, .co.nz/postmasters; 3Parnell St;r$85-125) cabins are simple but supertidy. bush atthisnicelymanaged caravan park.The 88; internet.co.nz; St;sitesperperson$12,cabins$48- 1Marmon MotorCamp Rawene Sleeping % Quirky Masonic Hotel Masonic Waima Lodge Homestay Old Lane’sStore Lodgings Postmaster’s Budding cooksshould stockuponmainly pis 09-405 7717;12Parnell St; car ferry h h 9.30am-5.30pm) Outpost Hokianga )

Sheltered tent sites hideinthe ( 8am-4pm; ( % %

( ( % % 09-405 2602; car & driver oneway/ 09-405 2602;car&driver 09-405 7728;8ClendonEsplanade; 09-405 3808;www.waimalodge 09-405 7822;8Parnell St) ( Right bytheharbour, Right % ( v

% stockslocalart,crafts, h h p 09-405 7720;bobsmow@ ) Youcaneatover- 09-405 7676;www.rawene 7.30am-8pm) 8.30am-5.30pm) In a sleepy valley Inasleepy

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( HOKIANGA••Opononi&Omapere ( % % Comfortable Comfortable 09-405 7554;9 09-405 7423;5 headsto Wardy’s . The

and takes youacross theharbourtolarge is afastboatthatleaves fromOpononiJetty light tour ledbyMaorilight guidesintoWaipoua recited before the giant trees. stories are shared, andmesmerising Maori culture, Tribal historyand it’sfantastic. Kauri Forest ( p190 ). As anintroduction to waipoua.co.nz; adult/child$75/25) Trips leave hourly. down a30mslopeandskimover thewater. dunes,wheregolden sand youcan sandboard Express Hokianga Tours access tomanyWaima Forest walks. Rd (nearOkopakoLodge Farm Hostel) gives passing kauriand a picturesque waterfall. place, fromthesame two-hour loopstarting summit (sixhours return), butthere’s ashorter Hauturu (679m).It’safour-hour walktothe to the Waiotemarama Gorge Rdturnssouthfor6km up climbleads skirts of Opononi,ahalf-hour particularly todiscuss the river crossings. that youcheck withthembefore out, setting advises possible tocamponthebeach. DOC two hours eithersideof low tide. It’susually and food,crossthemajor rivers within HikersIwi Lakes. mustcarryalltheirownwater entire 15hours (allowabout three days)toKai hours totheKerr Rdexit,oryoucantrampthe sixhoursto Kaikai toKawerua Beach, and12 Head of HokiangaHarbour. It’sthree hours Reserve Recreation south alongthecoastfrom The Activities access andatinylocalmuseum upstairs. xtra.co.nz; SH12,Omapere; the water at dunesacross sand nated bythemountainous here andgoodforswimming.Viewsare domi- into oneanother. Thewater’s much clearer head of HokiangaHarbour more orlessrun nearthesouth tranquilsettlements These pop 630 OPONONI &OMAPERE of the harbour. Footprints Waipoua Footprints Two kilometres eastof Opononi, Rdontheeastern out- From Cemetery The The Mt Whiria Hokianga Kai IwiCoastalTrampingTrack Kai Hokianga Waiotemarama bushtrack Waiotemarama Hokianga i-SITE Hokianga Six FootTrack , a North Head North

pa ( % (Signal StationRd) site withasplendidview ( attheendof Mountain

h 09-405 8872;adult/child$20/10) % (

% . 8.30am-5pm) 0800 687836;www.footprints 09-405 8869;hokiangainfo@ isafour-hour twi- , which climbsMt , on the South , ontheSouth hasinternet Arai-Te-Uru karakia leads leads 189

BAY OF ISLANDS ISLANDS OF BAY NORTHLAND & THE THE & NORTHLAND NORTHLAND & THE BAY OF ISLANDS the bottomof the house. The roomopens on toabeautifulgardenat theheads. through withviews straight house (bedding)inthishilltop inpinksatin nights of Opononiand1.5kmdown agravel road, 140 MountainRd;sitesperadult/child Rawene ( Rawene p188 ) andincludesatourof the $55/45, 2¾hours, departs8.30am)visits .omapere.co.nz; SH12; units$140-155; 68 SignalStationRd;s/d$80/90; can justrelax andunwindin casual style. you intouch withmyriadlocalactivities,oryou a particularlysillydogisideallyplaced toput pi SH12;dm/d/tw$23/56/56; [email protected]; Lodge Backpackers’ Globe Trekkers OMAPERE eat downthisend(mealsless than $20). late), which alsohappenstobethebestspot away fromthevery coolpub(open9amtill facing aimforthose the bestviews.Otherwise of thefronttwo–they’re abitbigger andhave has leftthemquietlystylish. Trytograb one the white-paint andblond-woodmakeover accommodation. Theroomsaren’t huge, but reinvented asavery of itself elegantset simple the beginningof time,theOpononiHotel has .co.nz; SH12;r$150; andwaterfall inthe lighthouse front garden. communal barbecue,spapool,andacutesy very harbourside comfortable units,plusagreat Scrupulously clean,thisrefurbished motel has .lighthousemotel.co.nz; SH12;units$140-235; (the SixFootTrack here).starts this simplehostel isquietandsuited tohikers $24/40/58/58; Okopako LodgeFarm Hostel OPONONI own superette and takeaways. of neighbouring villagesEach these hasits Sleeping &Eating and the dunes. sand departs 11.45am)addsonKohukohu ( p188 ) ternoon tour(adult/child $65/35,3½hours, Mangungu ( Mission House p187 ). Theaf- ianga.co.nz) Harbour Cruises 190 Opononi Lighthouse Motel Opononi LighthouseMotel crowdrunsthe The same Copthorne Hotel & Resort &Resort Copthorne Hotel B&B Ti Kouka Opononi Hotel AR OS • Hkag oDrail ToDargaville KAURI COAST ••Hokianga ) Thisconsiderate, home-stylelodge with . Themorningtour(adult/child p

) High upinthebush5kmeast High

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( p % ( % % ) 0800 687836;www.crossingshok Despite beinghere since 09-405 8622; [email protected]; 09-405 8622;[email protected]; 09-405 8858;www.opononihotel p

( ( ( % % % ) Lookforwardto Crossings Hokianga Crossings Hokianga ps

09-405 8737;www 09-405 8824;www /fax 09-4058815;

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is basically unbroken and undeveloped for the is basicallyunbroken forthe andundeveloped andriver, thiscoast Apart fromtheoddbluff KAURI COAST Waipoua Kauri Forest and Dargaville. ups anywhere alongtheroute, includingthe includesunlimited stopsandpick- weekly) Thefare ($55,fourbuses service. on, hop-off Network Paihia–Auckland legof the is running.Abetter the optionistopurchase 8am) whenitsCrossingsHokiangatour( p168 ) .co.nz) Opononi. There’s noregular publictransportto Getting There&Away can be arranged. There’s aspa andalternative healingtherapies edge andgloriousviewsof dunes. thesand ceptional accommodationontheharbour’s with originalKiwiartonthewallsoffers ex- haven.co.nz; 226SH12;r$160; expensive have terraces and water views. A modernwinghassmartunits;themore summer’s drinkorbistromeal($12to$22). complex remains anattractive spotfora lated byaluminiumjoinery,thiswaterside the originalgrandVictorianvillabeingvio- of forest northernNZ.The roadthrough remnant of theonce-extensive kauriforests after much publicpressure –is thelargest superb forest –proclaimedin1952 sanctuary of Northland’s westcoast,this The highlight Waipoua KauriForest Forests a copyof DOC’s ATMs. Trampers should considergrabbing OpononiandDargaville,between andno food asthere are few stores orrestaurants overnight,planning tostay bringyourown Here’s where mostof theactionlies.Ifyou’re HOKIANGA TODARGAVILLE get themaroundsomeof thebig boys here. fraternityhugging This isoneforthechubby chasers of thetree- one of thegreat of NZ. naturalhighlights atthemagnificentkauriforests, is tomarvel harbours. Themainreason forcominghere theHokiangaandKaipara110km between Hokianga Haven Hokianga hasabusfromPaihia ($45,1½hours, brochure ($1).

( % Kings Kings 09-358 5600;www.magicbus.co.nz) Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels ( %

Waipoua &TrounsonKauri (

% – you’d need 8m arms to 8marmsto – you’dneed 0800 222979;www.kings-tours 09-405 8285;www.hokianga p This modern house Thismodernhouse ) Magic Travellers Travellers Magic hop- iwi to return controlof theforest totheTe Roroa andhaveheight atrunk5m in diameter. trees –afullygrownkauricanreach 60min stretches somehuge for18kmandpasses Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels ($90) are available. Prices includebreakfast, and decadentdinners thewoolshed stables, ous, spacioussuites, which were originallythe the southernedge of theforest hasfourluxuri- lodge.co.nz; SH12;r$540-570; Waipoua LodgeB&B SLEEPING &EATING walk is1km further on. views.The10-minute tacular a turn-off toa seventh-largest kauri. A40-minutethe base. walkleadsto of trees fourtall thathave together at fused like matchsticks in comparison. clearing surroundedbymature trees thatlook he’s thewidestlivingkauri.He presides over a reinforced girth–at16.4m byhissubstantial nobleMahuta, presence, buthehasthesame wasn’t afence. At30mhe’sshorter thanTane iftherearound himandcall‘Daddy’,even sider rushing forward tothrowtheirarms the mostardenttree-hugger wouldn’tcon- Ngahere Matua guarded ($2 donation suggested). aproblem andthecarparkisnow has been the Kauri Walkscarpark.Theftfromcars 1200and between 2000 years. He’s holdingcourt here been forsomewhere granted an audiencetohishushed presence. so much lookatTane Mahuta; it’sasifyou’re metres, he’s thelargest kaurialive. Youdon’t a 13.8mgirthandwoodmassof 244.5cubic named fortheMaori forest god.At51m,with mighty from theroad,stands or Dargaville i-SITEs. orattheHokianga office quire atanyDOC centre out,en- youset isunknown.Before campinggroundnearthevisitor of DOC’s willmoveoffice toDargaville. Thefuture near thesouthendof thepark,butDOC likely tocontinuerunningthevisitorcentre breaches of theTreaty of The Waitangi. Near thevery southendof theparkthere’s byareClose the From here, a20-minute walkleadsto Near thenorthendof thepark,notfar A littlefurthersouthashort roadleadsto At thetimeof research, planswere afoot (tribe)aspartof for Crown asettlement (theFather of theForest). Even forest lookout forest

Four Sisters ( % and the calf-rearing pen! and thecalf-rearing p 09-439 0422;www.waipoua Thisfineoldvillaat ) thatoffers spec- KAURI COAST •• Hokianga ToDargaville KAURI COAST ••Hokianga , a graceful stand , agracefulstand Toatoa viewpoint Tane Mahuta Tane Mahuta Yakas iwi , the Te Te is ,

kitchen and hot showers. the edge of thepark,which hasacommunal hours toreach of thebase Maunganui Bluff. the lakes tothecoast and it’sanothertwo walkleads from tively untouched. Ahalf-hour with water-skiers, Kai whileLake Iwiisrela- patches andpinetrees. Waikere Lake ispopular Taharoa, hasbluewater fringed withsandy SH12.The largest,near thecoast,12kmoff three trout-filledThese freshwater lakes nestle Kai IwiLakes road. unsealed park, nearKaihu, which avoids arough tothe turn-off it’s easiertotake thesecond nocturnal nature walks. facilities andasmallshop. Italsoorganises attractive riverside campinggroundwithgood Trounson Park Rd;sites $32,units$85-180; Holiday Park and transporttolocalattractions(for a fee). worms. Thehostscanprovide low-costmeals andabush walkwithglow- produce forsale north of theTrounsonturn-off, hasfarm a cosyandwell-kept farm-based hostel 2km .co.nz; 3344 SH12;sitesperperson$18,dm/s/d/tw$28/48/66/66) kiwi. brown at leasthearamorepork (anative owl)ora threatened native birdspecies,soyoushould gramme andhasbecomeamainlandrefuge for wild. Trounsonhasapredator-eradication pro- here. Thisisarare akiwiinthe chance tosee the floraandnocturnalwildlife thatthrives $20/12) trunks. conjoined other FourSisters –twopairs of trees with acoupleofkauri stands, fallentrees andan- a beautifulforest withstreams, somefine the picnicarea through bytheroad.Itpasses loop walkleadingfrom an easyhalf-hour The 450-hectare Trounson Kauri Park has Trounson KauriPark forest. the former cheese factorynearthenorthendof snacksina up tasty and craftshop serves music’s pretty café good.Thisbright-yellow the Hokianga’s hippiesendedup.Certainly mains $8-14; Kaihu Farm Hostel Kaihu If you’re approaching fromthenorth Just 2kmfromSH12, Guided night-time Café Morrell’s DOC operates a DOC , runbytheTop10HolidayPark, explain h (

% 9am-4pm; (

% 09-439 0621; www.kauricoasttop10.co.nz; 09-439 0621;www.kauricoasttop10.co.nz;

09-405 4545; 7235 SH12, Waimamaku; 09-405 4545;7235SH12,Waimamaku; ( % campsite v 09-439 4004;www.kaihufarm nature walks nature Perhaps thisiswhere ) Kauri CoastTop10 Kauri

(adult/child $10/5) pi

(adult/child isan ) 191 at

BAY OF ISLANDS ISLANDS OF BAY NORTHLAND & THE THE & NORTHLAND NORTHLAND & THE BAY OF ISLANDS ing water andflush toilets are provided. Taharoa; coldshowers, gasbarbecues,drink- mitted amongthepinesatsideof Lake $5-18; park. Ridenorthalongthebeach toview has a wide-ranging menu, although thefish has awide-ranging menu, although popularrestaurant,this highly caféandbar decorated Brightly withmuralsandmosaics, 15, dinner$14-28; store– cum-bar-cum-takeaway. day atthishandybottleshop–cum–general and all-daybreakfasts are theorderof the in the guest lounge. barwithanhonestybox there’s aself-service the bill.Allroomshave viewsand sea large, modern,brand-spanking-newB&Bfits isyourthing,this gin-in-hand sunset-gazing setviewlodge.co.nz; Alcemene Lane;r$150-179; 4WD vantours ($45to$85 per person). bikes forhire ($60perhour).Italsoruns good management andfacilities,quad cabins $40-65,units$85-110; lysbeach.co.nz; Rd;sitesperadult/child$13/6, 24Seaview Baylys BeachHolidayPark SLEEPING &EATING should costaround $25. ahead Call someone’s house. for bookings. telescope andit’slocated onthefrontlawnof gazing $40) ( up anddownittakes five hours. volcanic Maunganui (460m);thehike Bluff fore venturing onto the sand. tions andcheck yourhire-car agreement be- Ask localsaboutcondi- Ninety MileBeach. less wellknownandhencelesstravelled than Despite beingNZ’slongest drivablebeach, it’s itisprimarilyfor4WDs. low tide,although youcandrive at highway: alongitshardsand of manyshipwrecks. Thebeach isagazetted pounded stretch of thesite coastthathasbeen asurf- 100km-long RipiroOceanBeach, 12km fromDargaville, SH12.Itlieson off few newholidaymansions, is Beach Baylys A village of coloured brightly baches anda Baylys Beach 192 % It’s pretty kooky,but Quad bikes canbehired attheholiday Camping Sharky’s Lodge Sunset View fromDargaville Beach toBaylys A taxi Funky Fish 09-439 1856;www.skydome.org.nz; Rd;star- 28Seaview AR OS • Drail KAURI COAST ••Dargaville h isamassive, technologically advanced breakfast, lunch&dinner) (

( % % ( % 09-439 8360;adult/child$13/8) h 09-439 4549; 1 Seaview Rd;meals09-439 4549;1Seaview 09-439 8883; 34 Seaview Rd;lunch$9- 09-439 8883;34Seaview 5pm-late Mon,11am-late Tue-Sun)

( % pi

( % Skydome Observatory 09-439 4342;www.sun 09-439 6349;www.bay Quicksnacks Thisplacehas ) pi isper- If )

pi St;dm/d/tw$21/50/50; [email protected]; 13Portland originally builtforthemayor. Theaffable large lounge inthis spacious1934house, Sun) Hasinternetaccessandlocal walk pamphlets. 69 NormanbySt; are mounted atalookoutnear the and aneatmodelrailway.Outside,themastsof time, Maori andmusical-instrumentsections There’s alarge display,plusmari- gum-digging $10/2; ( Perched ontopof ahill,the Sights Post Office i-SITE Dargaville Information area. Wairoa theagriculturalNorthern backwater servicing decimated, itdeclinedandtodayisaquiet kauri timberandgum.As theforests were riverimportant portthrived ontheexport of timber merchant Joseph Dargaville, thisonce- not toexpecttoomuch. Foundedin1872by youshould know potatoes) country’s sweet ofcapital NZ’(itproducestwo-thirdsof the the‘kumara When atownproclaimsitself pop 4530 DARGAVILLE Mon, 9am-1am Tue-Sat, 9am-3.30pm Sun) breakfast $6-15,lunch$7-24,dinner $20-28; and yummy biscuits. hosts provide breakfast, tea-making facilities Rd;s/d/tw$50/90/90) 136 Hokianga murals. school-like cosy unitsinthebackgardenand colourful, classrooms partitionedintolarge dorms, Backpackers Greenhouse Sleeping &Eating ings before joiningthe leads fromhere, passing someinteresting build- gardens.A40-minuteswamp andcoastal walk jawbone. There’s also afernery, andscented, playground shaped like ship anda whale atall Gardens % able in summer. dishes are Bookingsare thestandouts. advis- In thecentre of town, Blah, Blah, Blah… Blah, Blah, McLeans B&B Rainbow Warrior 09-439 7555;www.dargavillemuseum.co.nz; adult/child h ) Thisconverted has 1921schoolhouse has cool stuff for the kids, including a forthekids,includinga hascoolstuff 9am-4pm) (80 Victoria St) (80 Victoria h (

% ( ismore interesting thanmost. 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & 10am-4pmSat& 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, % Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 09-439 8360; www.kauricoast.co.nz; 09-439 8360;www.kauricoast.co.nz; 09-439 5915;[email protected];

( % (see theboxed (see text, p181 ) ( Memorial Park Memorial Bush Walk % 09-439 6300; 101 Victoria St; 09-439 6300;101Victoria 09-439 6342;greenhouse Taha Awa Riverside AwaRiverside Taha Guestsshare a Dargaville Museum Dargaville Thenumber- pa h site. 9am-5pm .

supermarket burritos, steak) and cocktails. deli-style snacks,aglobal menu(cannelloni, much) hasagardenarea,saying hipmusic, one pickinDargaville (admittedly that’snot Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Kauri Museum Kauri charms, thereason forvisiting isthesuperb Kaipara’s manyinlets.Apartfrom itsrural Matakohe’s village asweet ononeof the pop 400 MATAKOHE Meals andtours canbearranged on request. abaranddiningroom. views. There’s SkyTV, stylishroomswith verandaswith bright, andsea is acontemporary buildinginaremote spot, 6577PoutoRd;d$250, ste$350-450; house-lodge.co.nz; winding and partly unsealed. butit’s The inlandroadisasimilardistance ing bothyourcarandthefragileecosystem. ful guideformotorists,withtipsprotect- Pouto Hidden Treasures 71km stretch of beach to drive thetwoyou’d between cover 267km. north andsouthheads,butifyouwere to Kaipara than10kmseparates Less Harbour’s Lighthouse Kaipara by dozensof petite dunelakes andthelonely an incredibly remote headland, punctuated trance of Kaipara Harbour, NZ’sbiggest. It’s River, andcomestoanabrupthaltattheen- bordered bytheTasman andWairoa Sea A narrow spitdescendssouthof Dargaville, POUTO POINT route, includingOpononi and Matakohe. cludes unlimited stopsandpick-upsalongthe thatin- hop-on,hop-off service weekly) buses www.magicbus.co.nz) leg of the $10/16) Shuttle to-Dargaville utes). Aprivate operatorrunsa three hours) viaMatakohe ($18,35min- toandfromAuckland($45, perweek buses ( The mainbusstopisinKapia St. Getting There&Away in arefreshingly honest NZ pub. Sts) the % Self-caterers shouldheadto Self-caterers Lighthouse LodgeB&B A 4WD can be put to its proper use onthe A 4WDcanbeputtoitsproperuse ifyoufeel like ahandle of somethingcold Central Hotel Central 09-278 8070;www.maincoachline.co.nz) on weekdays. ThePaihia–Auckland onweekdays. Magic Travellers Network Travellers Magic

(129 Victoria St; (129 Victoria

( % (

% hasafixed fare ($55,four 09-431 7417; www.kaurimuseum.com; 09-431 7417; www.kaurimuseum.com; (builtfromkauriin1884).

( 09-439 8034; cnr Victoria &Edward 09-439 8034;cnrVictoria % ( 021 380187;oneway/return % pamphlethasahelp- h Pouto Point 09-439 5150;www.light 7am-9pm) KAURI COAST ••PoutoPoint ( %

Main Coachline Main Woolworths Woolworths Whangarei- . Popinto runssix 09-358 5600; . DOC’s . DOC’s pi

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walk from the museum, thisB&Boccupiesa walk fromthemuseum, tractive, French-influenced B&Bisapopular or fit-outscreams but NorthAfricandesert, brunch &dinnerFri-Sun) Rds, Paparoa; brunch$8-18,dinner$22-27; line.co.nz) Auckland ($40,2½ hours) andDargaville Magic Travellers Network service. ($18, 35minutes). See left of fordetails the Coachline Main Getting There&Away local produce. Book ahead. offers asmallbut stellar menuwithafocuson in alovingly restored bankbuilding,Sahara little Paparoa, 6kmeast of Matakohe. Housed ofsurprise findingsuch astylishrestaurant in the incongruityof thenameisnothingon a bargain $40 per person. dinnersahead. Excellent canbearranged for weekender forAucklanders, soitpaystobook vence.co.nz; 703cTinopai Rd; s/d$100/145; port complementary and chocolates. onto averanda andoffer winningtouches like $29). Thesimplyfurnished roomsopenout pretty villawithacaféattached (mains$25to .co.nz; 24ChurchRd;s$60,d$135-145; and isonly350mfrom the museum. space andgoodviewsof Kaipara Harbour, little parkhasmodernamenities,plentyof find inacampingground,thisvery friendly pi .matakohetop10.co.nz; ChurchRd;sites$32,cabins/units$60/98; Top10HolidayPark Matakohe Sleeping &Eating the community’shall and school. both Methodists andAnglicans,acted as PioneerChurch Matakohe tos crafted from kauriwood and gum. like shopstocksmemen- quality.Themuseum sculpted andpolished toajewel- can becarved, lection of that kaurigum,theamber substance Gum Roomholdsaweirdandwonderfulcol- and fabulousfurniture andmarquetry.The Victorian home–alongwithphotos,artefacts, gum-digger’s hutand boardinghouse, sawmill, life-sizedthrough reproductions of apioneer selves, buttheentire tolight industryisbrought ofcross-sections trees are astoundinginthem- Church Rd;adult/child$15/3; Petite Provence Petite House Matakohe Sahara Facing isthetinykauri-built themuseum ) Withperhapsthecosiestlounge you’ll runs six buses per week to/from per week runssixbuses

( % 09-431 6833;cnrFranklin&Paparoa Valley

( %

Nothingabout thecuisine ( ( % % 09-278 8070;www.maincoach 09-431 7552;www.petitepro h 09-431 7091;mathouse@xtra (1867), which served (1867),which served 8.30am-5pm). (

% pi 09-431 6431;www p h The giant Thegiant Thisat- ) Ashort ) dinner Thu,

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