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Behind the Scenes

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Bavinck, Marc-Olivier Bergeron, Marieke Holl, OUR READERS Marius Muraska, Mariusz Lewicki, Mark Rimer, Many thanks to the travellers who used the Markus Lindner, Matthew Ashbolt, Meike last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, Sier, Melissa Lazell, Michael Konefal, Moana useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Mutscheller N Nadine Blanc, Natalie Hedges, A Annele Keller, Alex Jones, Alexa Vlaming, Neil Hankinson, Neil Hart, Noor van Hapert Andrea Meier, Andrew Crouch, Anette Czepu- O Olle Klint P Paul Buxton R Randi Johnbeck, lowski, Angelique Braat, Anne Catrien Gielens, Rita Mensink, Roger Race, Ronnie Dunetz, Annemarie Robertsen, Annette Elben, Asit Rose Hawke S Sarah Parish, Saskia Beijering, Mukhopadhyay B Binia Fraser, Birgit Malin, Saskia Fernando, Shirin Reuvers, Shirley Sim, Blanc Nadine, Brat Caroline, Brian Woodgate Siegfried Schoen, Soeren Finkbeiner, Søren & C Catharian Kaffenberger, Cecilia Jensen, Grethe Iversen, Steve Jones, Stine Porsbjerg, Cecilia Rovelli, Cheng Huang Leng, Chris Oey, Suzanne Hamilton T Thomas Winther An- Christopher Rowland, Colleen Mavris D Dani dersen, Tim Giesberts, Tobias Vishvabaratha, Carranza, David Bruce-Steer, David Dimasi, Tony Knight, Tuomo Huuskonen V Véronique David Eisenrauch, David Engstrand, David Tay- D’haens, Virginia Scott lor, Dilsiri Welikala E Elad Wexler, Elisa Janszen, Erich Malter, Ernesto Sanchez Beaumont, Esther Hermans-Spijker F Floris and Marcella, AUTHOR THANKS Frans van Assendelft G Gabriel Corens, Gary Ryan Ver Berkmoes Heiden, Gemma Stewart, George Fogh, Geral- Thanks to all who made my time in dine Plas Hans Ohrt, Herman Boerrigter H I a delight and shared valuable insights: Milroy Irene Söding James Smith, Jan Joost, Jane J Janaka and my old pal Juliet Coombe were Mason, Javi Molina, Jean-Marc Legras, Jeroen extremely helpful. Thanks to the myriad others Derichs, Jessy Nourrit, Joelle Abi Chaker, Joep who answered questions and offered advice to van Schalkwijk, John Evans, John Moore, John a seemingly confused traveller who did a lot of Turner, Jon McGowan, Jonathan Meyer Harri- note taking and always had one more question. son, Julia Antonova Karel Jan van den Heuvel K Off island, love and thanks to former Sri Lanka Rijnders, Kathryn Smyth, Kathryn Stanczyszyn, resident Alexis Averbuck, who gave me reason Katia Begall, Kevin Callaghan, Krupa Thakrar to leave. L Léa Deswarte, Lin Chia Ying, Louisa Johns- son Zea & Mario Zea, Luis Navas M Maarten 326 Stuart Butler ACKNOWLEDGMENTS First and foremost I must, once again, thank my wife, Heather, and children, Jake and Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Grace, for putting up with my extended pe- Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated riods away while working on this project and World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate (to Heather) for coping so admirably with two Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND small children on her own. As always massive Sciences, 11, 1633¬44. thanks to my Sri Lankan friends Dimuthu Cover photograph: Stilt fishing, near Priyadarshana and family, HA Anura, Milroy Weligama. Jon Hicks/Corbis Fernando, Sena and Rashinika Kolamba- hewage, Stephanie and Palitha, Ramyadava Gunasekara, Juliet Coombe, Jai and Sumana and Sue and Faiesz, at Sharon Inn. Finally, thanks to all the other nameless Sri Lankans I pestered with questions about bus schedules and so on. Iain Stewart Thanks to Somey for scenic rides and great company, Mark Wyndham and the crew for the bike trip, Dimuthu for his hospitality and all in Mannar and . And to James Smart, Joe Bindloss and the Lonely Planet team for their professionalism and help on this title.

Destination Editors Joe Assisting Cartographers THIS BOOK Bindloss, James Smart Mick Garrett, Corey Hutchison, This 13th edition of Lonely Product Editor Amanda Rachel Imeson Planet’s Sri Lanka guidebook Williamson Cover Researcher Naomi was researched and written Senior Cartographer David Parker by Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Stuart Kemp Language Content Butler and Iain Stewart. The Book Designer Jessica Rose Branislava Vladisavljevic previous two editions were Thanks to Ryan Evans, written by Brett Atkinson, Assisting Editors Victoria Claire Naylor, the Kates, Stuart Butler, Ethan Gelber, Harrison, Kate Kiely, Kellie Karyn Noble, Angela Tinson, Amy Karafin and Ryan Ver Langdon, Rosie Nicholson, Samantha Tyson, Lauren Berkmoes. Christopher Pitts, Erin Richards Wellicome ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 327

Index

A highlights 194 Negombo 90 234 accommodation 20, 304-5, planning 193-4 Unawatuna 116-17, 118 Bentota Ganga 95 see also individual 14, 206-12, locations 283, 207, 208, 14 13, 134 budgeting 304 10, 200-4, 201, B Galway’s Land National languages 318, 320-1 2, 11 Badulla 185-6, 185 Park 167-8 activities 26-8, 39-45, see tickets 157, 195, see bailas 283 Hikkaduwa 99 also art, Ayurvedic also individual 68 Horton Plains National treatments, birdwatch- locations Bandarawela 178-9, 178 Park 15, 174, 15 ing, boating, canoeing, travel seasons 193 bargaining 310 Kitulgala 165 cooking, cycling, danc- animals, see wildlife Knuckles Range 161 ing, diving, dolphin- bathrooms 309 watching, individual Koggala Lake 120 watching, golfing, hiking, animals 242-5, 243, 24 horse racing, kitesurfing, Bawa, Geoffrey 63, 72 Kumana Bird Reserve 10, 215-23, 239-40 lace-making, meditating, beaches 8, 14, 22, 23, 39-45 paper-making, safaris, 281-2, 216 Minneriya National Arugam Bay 232-4, 238, snorkelling, surfing, accommodation 221-2 Park 213 239, 11 swimming, tennis, festivals & events 221 Muthurajawela walking, watersports, food 222 Batticaloa 242, 24 Marsh 86 whale-watching, history 215 Bentota 95 Nalanda Gedige 197 white-water rafting, Chempiyanpattu 274 wildlife watching, sights 215-21 Negombo 88 Elephant Pass 273 windsurfing, yoga tickets 223 237-8 107, 115 Adam’s Bridge 261 tourist information 223 Pulmoddai 255 Goyambokka 129 Adam’s Peak (Sri Pada) 12, tours 221 Sinharaja Forest 28, 163-5, 192, 12 travel to/from 223 Hikkaduwa 98-9, 42 Reserve 190 Adisham Monastery 176 travel within 223 Jaffna’s Islands 274-6 Tangamalai 177 afternoon tea 35 architecture 25, 72, see also 245-6 Udawattakelle Sanctuary 150 Ahangama 121-2 colonial architecture Kalpitiya 91-3 Wilpattu National air travel 312, 313 art galleries, see museums Mannar Island 260-1 & galleries Park 93-4 airlines 312 Matara 126 Arugam Bay 11, 22, 233, 11 Mirissa 124, 39 Wirawila Wewa Bird airports 312 Sanctuary 137 accommodation 22, 234-6 Mt Lavinia 68, 76 Aluthgama 95-8 Uda Walawe activities 233-4 Negombo 87, 88 Aluvihara 196 National Park 10, 22, drinking 236-7 Amangalla 108 253-4 188-9, 10 Ambalangod 102 food 236-7 Passekudah 245-6 Ampara 240-1 safety 237 Point Pedro 273 138-9, 2 Ancient Cities 54, 193-228, tourist information 237 southern Sri Lanka 103 boars 46-7, 138-9, 167-8, 194 travel to/from 237 Talalla 128 173-4, 189-90 accommodation 193 ATMs 308 Tangalla 130, 131, 8 boating 43 Anuradhapura 10, 215-23, Aukana Buddha 222 Trincomalee 249, 250 Batticaloa 245, 24 281-2, 216, 10 Aurudu (New Year) 26 Unawatuna 115-7, 118, 44 Bentota Ganga 95 climate 193 Ayurvedic treatments 13, 25, Uppuveli 251-2, 14 151 food 193 96, 307, 13 Belihul Oya 175 Pigeon Island National 69-70 Bentota 95-8 Park 253-4 Ella 182 bicycle travel, see cycling Pottuvil 238 Hikkaduwa 101 birds, see birdwatching books 278, 284, 285, 286, Map Pages 000 287, 288, 291, 295 Kandy area 151, 161 birdwatching 24-5, 47, 50, Photo Pages 000 Mirissa 124 2, 10 64-5 328 Bridge on the River Dowa Temple 179 car travel 22, 250, 314-16 highlights 57 Kwai 165 Gadaladeniya Cargills Main Store 59, 16 history 58 Buddha statues, see Temple 160 casinos 80 internet access 82 also Buddhist temples Gangarama Maha cell phones 18, 19, 309 itineraries 58 Aluvihara 196 Vihara 99 cemeteries neighbourhoods 59 Gangaramaya Anuradhapura 219, 10 Commonwealth War planning 56-7

INDEX INDEX Temple 63 Aukana Buddha 222 Cemetery 251 safety 82 Kataluwa Purwarama Buduruwagala 187 Kandy Garrison shopping 17, 22, 80-2 Temple 120 Dambulla 197-9, 31 Cemetery 150 sights 58-63, 67-9 Maha B-D Degal Doruwa Raja Kandy War  Vihara 69 tourist information 82 Maha Vihara 150 Cemetery 158 Kirinda Temple 138 tours 70 Dowa Temple 179 149 Kirivehara 140 travel seasons 56 children, travel with 51-2, Maligawila 232, 5 travel to/from 82-3 Kudimbigala Forest 154 Mulkirigala 128 Hermitage 239 travel within 63, 83 299 Polonnaruwa 210, 14 Lankatilake Temple churches & cathedrals Colombo 60-1 Pottuvil 238 158, 160 Colombo to Kandy 144 Dutch Reformed Buddhangala Rock Mahiyangana Church 107 Colombo to Negombo 86 Hermitage 241 Dagoba 162 Our Lady of Madhu colonial architecture 16, 25 282, 297-8 Magul Maha Church 262 Colombo 22, 58-63, Buddhist sites, see also Vihara 240 67-9, 16 Buddhist temples St Anthony’s 69 24, 223-6, 224 Galle 13, 22, 105, Adam’s Peak (Sri Pada) St Lucia’s 69 Mulkirigala rock 107-8, 13 12, 28, 163-5, 192, 12 temples 128 St Mark’s Church 185 Jaffna 263-7 Aluvihara 196 Muthiyagana St Paul’s Church 150 Matara 126 Anuradhapura 215-21, 10 Vihara 185 St Peter’s Church 59 consulates 305-6 Buddhangala Rock Nagadipa Temple 275-6 Wolvendaal Church 61 cooking classes 35 Hermitage 241 Polonnaruwa 206-10, 14 Gardens 64-5 Beruwela 96 Buduruwagala 187 Rakkhiththakanda classes Colombo 70 Dambulla Cave Temples Len Viharaya Cave art 70 197-8, 31 Temple 186 cooking 35, 70, 96, Ella 182-3 Deegawapi 241-2 Ravanna Ella 112, 113, 117, 126, Galle 112, 113 140-1 Temple 185 182-3, 212 Giritale 212 Magul Maha Vihara 240 Ridi Vihara 227-8 dance 102 Matara 126 Mandalagiri Vihara 213 Rumassala Peace diving 45, 87, 88, 99, Unawatuna 117 Pagoda 115 117, 123, 243, 251, 254 Mihintale 223-6 courses, see classes Sri Maha Bodhi 10 kitesurfing 87, Panduwasnuwara 227 41 credit cards 308 Tanaveram lace-making 114 Pathma Vihara 232 cricket 80, 108 Buddhist Temple 128 meditation 70, 96, Ridi Vihara 227-8 crocodiles 86, 93, 134, Temple of the Sacred 155, 160 138-9, 188, 213, 239-40, Ritigala Ruins 214-15 Tooth Relic 15, 24, paper-making 114 245, 294 Sigiriya 200-3, 2, 11 145-9, , 15 28 surfing 42-3, 99, 121, cultural triangle, see Situlpahuwa 139 Tissa Dagoba 134-5 11, 42 Ancient Cities Temple of the Sacred Wewurukannala watersports 95 currency 18 Tooth Relic 15, 24, Vihara 129 windsurfing 43 curry 37, see also food 145-9, 15, 28 Yatagala Raja Maha yoga 96, 115-17, 129, customs regulations 305 Rock Viharaya 115 235, 239 cycling 313-14, 316 Fortress 226-7 Yatala Wehera 134 climate 18, 26-8, 40, see Adam’s Peak Yudaganawa 231-2 budgeting 19, 304, 306 also individual regions (Sri Pada) 164 Buddhist temples 23-4, Buduruwagala 187 Colombo 17, 53, 56-83, Anuradhapura 223 215, see also Buddhist buffaloes 138, 188, 213, sites, Buddhist statues, 57, 60-1, 64-5, 68, Giritale 212 234, 293 monasteries 16, 17 Jaffna 271 Bundala National Park accommodation 22, Anuradhapura 215-21, 10 Kandy 151 13, 134, 13 56, 71-5 Dambulla Cave Temples Nuwara Eliya 169 Burghers 297 activities 69-70 197-8, 31 Polonnaruwa 212 bus travel 314, 316 climate 56 Degal Doruwa Raja Maha Vihara 150 business hours 19, 308 drinking & nightlife 78-9 emergency services 82 D entertainment 79-80 Dambatenne Tea Map Pages C festivals & events 70-1 Factory 176 000 canals 86, 87 Photo Pages food 56, 75-8, 21 Dambulla 197-200 000 canoeing 43 329 Dambulla Cave Temples Arugam Bay 234 Karaitivu 276 Knuckles Range 161-2 197-8, 198, 31 Ampara 240 Mannar Town 260 Monaragala 230 dancing 102 Elephant Transit Matara 126 Pidurutalagala 169 dangers, see safety Home 188 Negombo 86 Hikkaduwa 98-102, 99, 42 deer 47, 93, 138-9, 188, Kaudulla National Trincomalee 247 Hikkaduwa National 190, 213-14 Park 213-14 Yapahuwa 226-7 Park 98

Degal Doruwa Raja Millennium Elephant frescoes Hill Country 54, 142-92, INDEX Maha Vihara 150 Foundation 144 Aluvihara 196 143 Minneriya National 70 Kolawenigama accommodation 142 Park 213-14 Dematal Vihara 232 Temple 190 climate 142  D-H Pinnewala Elephant Dikwella 129 food 142 Orphanage 144 Sigiriya 201-2, 2 disabilities, travellers Tivanka Image highlights 143 with 310 Uda Walawe National Park 188 House 210 planning 142-3 discount cards 305 Yala National Park Yapahuwa 226-7 travel seasons 142 diving 23, 40, 45, 316 138-40, 2, 48 fruit 34, 172, 36 Hindu temples 16, 28 Batticaloa 243 Ella 179-84, 180 Anipandi Sitivigniswara Dutch Bay 92 accommodation 181-2 Alayar 242 Great Basses 137 drinking 182-3 G Colombo 61, 69 Hikkaduwa 98 Galle 13, 104-15, 106, 111, food 182-3 Embekka Devale 158 Kalpitiya 92 13, 24 shopping 183 Gadaladeniya Temple Negombo 87, 88 accommodation 22, 160 tourist information 183 Nilaveli 253-4 109-10, 112 Kandasamy Kovil 247-9 travel to/from 183-4 Unawatuna 117 activities 108-9 Kataragama Devale 185 Ella environs 184-5, 184 Uppuveli 251 drinking & nightlife 113-14 Kathiresan Kovil 61 Ella Rock 180 Weligama 123 festivals & events 109 Lankatilake Temple embassies 305-6 dolphin-watching 43, food 22, 112-13 158, 160 Embilipitiya 187-8 45, 44 history 104-5 Maha Devale 140 Dutch Bay 92 emergencies 319, 321, shopping 114 Munneswaram 91 see also individual Kalpitiya 91-2 sights 105, 107-8 locations Naga Pooshani Amman Uppuveli 252 tourist information 114 Kovil 275 endangered species 294 128 travel to/from 114-15 Naguleswaram Shiva environmental issues 118, Kovil 271 drinks 34-8, see also tea, 292-5 travel within 114-15 individual locations Nalanda Gedige 197 etiquette 21 Galle Face Green 61-2, 21 budgeting 306 Nallur Kandaswamy beaches 41 13, 110-11, 13 languages 318-19, 321 Kovil 263-5, 271 photography 308-9 Galway’s Land National tipping 21, 308 Park 22 Okanda Sri Murugan temples 215 Kovil 239 driving 22, 250, 314-16 24 exchange rates 19 Polonnaruwa 206-10 Duruthu Perahera 26 gay travellers 306 Ravanna Ella Temple 185 Dutch Bay 91-3 gem stones 192 Salli Muthumariamunam Dutch Canal 86 Giritale 212-13 F Kovil 251 Dutch Fort, Batticaloa 242 golfing 151, 169 festivals & events 26-8, Seetha Amman Temple Dutch Fort, Negombo 86 28, see also poya, Goyambokka 129-30 169 individual locations Sivam Kovil 140 Sri Muthumariamman 149 E H Kovil 69 East Sri Lanka 54, Kataragama Festival Habarana 204-6 Sri Muthumariamman 141 229-55, 230 Hambantota 136 Thevasthanam 196 Festival 163 accommodation 229 Haputale 175-8, 176 Sri Ponnambalam climate 229 food 14, 34-8, 77, 14, health 306-8 Vanesar Kovil 69 food 229 21, 36, see also Helga’s Folly 152 Thiruchendur Murugan individual locations highlights 230 Henerathgoda Botanic Alayam Temple 242 planning 229-30 budgeting 306 Gardens 144 Thirukketeeswaram travel seasons 229 languages 318-19, hiking, see also walking Kovil 261 321, 322 eating 34-8, see also food, Adam’s Peak Thurkkai Amman individual locations tipping 21, 308 (Sri Pada) 163 Kovil 271 economy 21, 278-9 forts 284 Ella 180-1 Valipura Kovil 273 electricity 305 Batticaloa 242 Haputale 177 298-9 Elephant Pass 267, 273-4 Colombo 58-9 Kandy 151 history 280-91 elephants 10, 13, 47, 134, Galle 13, 105, 107-8, 13 Kitulgala 165 after the tsunami 289 293-4 Jaffna 265-6 Anuradhapura 281-2 330 history, continued history 258 Labookellie Tea Factory 166 Mannar Island 261 birth of the Tigers planning 256-7 languages 18, 21, 318-24 Midigama 121-2 286-7 safety 263 Sinhala 318-20 Mihintale 24, 223-6, 224 end of the war 289-91 travel seasons 256, 258 Sri Lankan English 322 military 275, 278 Polonnaruwa 283 265-6 Tamil 320-2 Millennium Elephant prehistory & early Jaffna Peninsula 22, 271-4, legal matters 308 Foundation 144

INDEX INDEX arrivals 280-1 272 leopards 138 Minneriya National road to independence Jaffna’s Islands 274-6 213-14 285-6 Japanese Peace Park 239-40 Mirissa 17, 123-6, 17, 39 trade & conquest H-M Pagoda 240 Sinharaja Forest mobile phones 18, 19, 309  283-4 Reserve 190 Monaragala 231

war & attempts at  Wilpattu National monasteries, see also peace 287-9 K Park 93, 48 Buddhist temples hitching 316 Kalpitiya 91-3 lesbian travellers 306 Abhayagiri 218-19 holidays 309 Kandy 15, 144-58, 146-7, Liberation Tigers of Adisham Monastery Ho-o-maniya 15, 28 Tamil Eelam 274, 176-7 Blowhole 129 accommodation 151-4 286-91 Aluvihara 196 horse racing 169 activities 150-1 Lighthouse Point 238 210, 14 Horton Plains drinking & nightlife 155 Lionel Wendt Centre 67 National Park 15, Indikatu Seya 226 entertainment 155 Lipton, Thomas 175 173-5, 15 Ritigala ruins 214 food 154 literature 278 human rights 278-9 Sigiriya 10, 200-3, 2, 11 internet access 156 Little Adam’s Peak 180 Hundungoda Tea money 18, 19, 21, 308, 310 Estate 121 safety 156 moneychangers 308 shopping 155-6 monkeys 46-7, 86, 138-9, sights 145-50 M 150 Magul Maha Vihara 240 I tourist information 156-7 297 Induruwa 95-8 Maha Sivarathri 26 travel to/from 157 mosques insurance 306, 308 Mahiyangana Dagoba 162 travel within 158 Auliya Mosque 242 internet access 308, Maligawila 232, 5 Kandy environs 158-62, Dewata-Gaha see also individual Mandalagiri Vihara 213 locations 159 Mosque 67 Kandy Esala Perahera Mannar Island 260-2 internet resources 19 Grand Jummah 27, 149 maps 308 Mosque 259 299 145 Marawila 91 Grand Mosque 61 itineraries 29-33, 29-33 Kandy to Nuwara Eliya 166 markets Jami-ul-Alfar 61 Kandy War Cemetery 158 Aluthgama 95 Ul-Khizr Mosque 141 Bandarawela 178 J 156 motorcycle travel 314-16 Kantarodai Ruins 271 Batticaloa 242 Jaffna 16, 262-71, 264-5, Mt Lavinia 70 Colombo 60, 77, 81, 16, 28 Karaitivu 276 Mulkirigala 24, 128 82, accommodation 267-8 Kataragama 140-1, 140 17 museums & galleries Dambulla 199 drinking 268-9 Kaudulla National Abhayagiri Museum 219 Galle 108, 119 festivals & events 267 Park 213, 213-14 Archaeological Museum, Jaffna 269-70 food 268-9 Keerimalai spring 272 Anuradhapura 220 Kandy 155 history 263 kitesurfing 43, 41 Archaeological Museum, Matara 127 Deegawapi 242 internet access 270 Dutch Bay 92 Monaragala 230 Archaeological Museum, shopping 269-70 Kalpitiya 92 Negombo 86-7 Jaffna 266-7 sights 263-7 Negombo 87 Nuwara Eliya 169 Archaeological Museum, tourist information 270 Kitulgala 165-6, 43 Ratnapura 192 Polonnaruwa 207 travel to/from 270-1 Knuckles Range 161-2 Udappuwa 91 Archaeological Museum, travel within 271 Koggala Lake 120 Vavuniya 258 masks 102, 310 Jaffna & the North 54, 64-5 Archaeological Museum, Matale 195-7 256-76, 257 Koslanda 186 Wellawaya 187 accommodation 256 kotthu 77, see also food Matara 126-8, 127 Ariyapala Mask climate 256, 258 Kudimbigala Forest measures 309 Museum 102 food 256 Hermitage 239 medical services 306, Central Point 59 see also individual highlights 257 Kumana National Park Ceylon Tea Museum 149 locations 239-40 Dambulla Museum 199 meditating 228 Dutch Period Museum 61 Beruwela 96 Map Pages 000 Folk Museum 220 Colombo 63, 70 Photo Pages 000 Gangaramaya Temple 63 L Kandy 150, 155, 160 331 Geoffrey Bawa House 63 Hikkaduwa National tours 170 Polonnaruwa 14, 206-12, Jaffna Archaelogical Park 98 travel to/from 173 283, 207, 208, 14 Museum 266-7 Horton Plains accommodation 210-11 Jaffna Art Gallery 270 National Park 15, food 211 Jetavanarama 173-5, 15 O history 206 Museum 219-20 Kaudulla National Old Dutch Hospital 58 internet access 211 Park 213-14 Kataragama Museum 141 opening hours 19, 308 sights 206-10 INDEX Lionel Wendt Centre 67 Conservation Forest 115 tickets 211 Marine Archeological tourist information Museum 107-8 Kumana Bird P Reserve 239-40 211-12  M-R Martin Wickramasinghe Padeniya Raja Kumana National travel to/from 212  Folk Art Museum 120 Mahavihara 227 Park 239-40 travel within 212 Mihintale Museum 226 palmyra 269 Minneriya National population 279 National Art Gallery 67 239 Park 213-14 Pottuvil 237-8, 238 National Maritime Panduwasnuwara 227 Pigeon Island National Pottuvil Lagoon 237-8 Museum 108 parks & gardens, see Park 253-4 poya 27, 298, 309, see also National Museum, also national parks & Ritigala Strict Nature festivals & events Colombo 67 reserves Reserve 214-15 public holidays 309 National Museum, Brief Garden 95 Sinharaja Forest Galle 108 Henerathgoda Botanic Pulmoddai 255 Reserve 189-92 National Museum, Gardens 144 Punkudutivu 275 Uda Walawe National Kandy 149-50 Peradeniya Botanic Park 10, 22, 188-9, 10 Rangala House Gardens 158 Gallery 155 Royal Pleasure R 22, 93-4 Saskia Fernando Gardens 220 Rajapaksa, 278-9 Wirawila Wewa Bird Gallery 67 Victoria Park 167 Ratnapura 192 Sanctuary 137-8 Sigiriya Museum 203 Viharamahadevi Rawana 249 Yala National Park Shoba Display Park 67 religion 279, 297-9 138-40, 2 Gallery 14 passports 312 reserves, see national Neduntivu (Delft) 276 Temple of the Pearl Island 260 parks & reserves, parks Sacred Tooth Relic Negombo 86-91, 87, 88 people 296-9 & gardens 15, 24, 145-9, 15, 28 accommodation 88-90 Peradeniya Botanic responsible travel 295 Traditional Puppet activities 87-8 Gardens 158 Ridi Vihara 227-8 Art Museum 68 drinking & nightlife 90 Pettah 60-1 Ritigala Ruins 214-15 Tsunami Photo food 90 Pettah Markets 60, 17 Ritigala Strict Nature Museum 100 sights 86-7 photography 308-9 Reserve 214-15 World Buddhism tourist information 90 Pidurangala Rock 203 rock monasteries & Museum 148-9 temples travel to/from 91 Pigeon Island National Vavuniya 258 travel within 91 Park 253-4 Buddhangala Rock Yapahuwa 227 Hermitage 241 Negombo to Kalpitiya 91 Pinnewala Elephant Muthurajawela newspapers 309 Orphanage 144 Dambulla Cave Temples Marsh 86 197-8, 198, 31 Nilaveli 253-5, 254 planning, see also Gal Vihara 210 North Sri Lanka 54, individual regions Isurumuniya Vihara 256-76, 257 budgeting 19, 304, 306 N 220-1 accommodation 256 calendar of events 26-8 Nagadipa 24 Mulkirigala 128 climate 256, 258 children 51-2, 154 (Nagadipa) Sigiriya 10, 200-3, food 256 drinks 34-8 275-6 201, 2, 11 exchange rates 19 Nalanda Gedige 197 highlights 257 Yapahuwa Rock National Museum, history 258 first-time visitors 20-1 Fortress 226-7 Colombo 67 planning 256-7 flag 290 Yatagala Raja Maha National Museum, safety 263 food 34-8, 14, 21, 36 Viharaya 115 Galle 108 travel seasons 256, 258 internet resources 19 ruins National Museum, Nuwara Eliya 166-73, 168 itineraries 29-33 Anuradhpura 217-9 Kandy 149-50 activities 169 repeat visitors 22 Colombo 86 national parks & reserves Sri Lankan basics 18-19 Deegawapi 241-2 46-50, 139, see also drinking 173 parks & gardens food 172 Sri Lankan regions 53-4 Jaffna 266 Bundala National history 167 telephone services 19 Kantarodai 271 Park 13, 134, 13 sights 167-9 travel seasons 18, 26-8 Mandalagiri Vihara 213 Galway’s Land National sleeping 170-2 Point Pedro 273 Mihintale 223-6 Park 22, 167-8 tourist information 173 politics 278-9 Panduwasnuwara 227 332 ruins, continued Marble Beach 250 see also drinks, tea U Polonnaruwa 208-209 Nilaveli 253-4 plantations Uda Walawe National Park Pottuvil 238 Pigeon Island 254 tea plantations 12, 166, 10, 22, 188-9, 10 302, see also tea Ritigala Strict Nature Unawatuna 117 Unawatuna 115-20, 116, 44 Dambatenne Tea Reserve 214 Weligama 123 accommodation 117-19 Factory 176 South Sri Lanka 53, activities 115-17

INDEX INDEX Hundungoda Tea 103-41, 104 Estate 121 drinking 119 S accommodation 103 food 119 safaris 46-50, 316, see Labookellie Tea beaches 103 also national parks & Factory 166 internet access 120 R-W reserves climate 103 Newburgh Green Tea tourist information  Kumana National highlights 104 Factory 180, 31 119-20 Park 240 planning 103-4 Pedro Tea Estate 167, 12 travel to/from 120 Kaudulla National travel seasons 103 Uva Halpewaththa travel within 120 Park 213 spice gardens 195 Tea Factory 184-5 Unesco World Heritage Minneriya National sports, see individual telephone services 18, 309 Sites 25, 294 Park 213-4 activities, individual Temple of the Sacred Adam’s Peak (Sri Pada) Wilpattu National sports Tooth Relic 24, 145-9, 12, 28, 163-5, 192, 12 Park 93-4 Sri Maha Bodhi 10, 24, 15, 28 Anuradhapura 10, Uda Walawe National 215-17, 294 tennis 169 215-21, 10 Park 188-9, 10 Star Fortress 260 theft 308 Central Highlands 15 Yala National Park stilt fishermen 120 three-wheelers 316 Dambulla Cave 138-40, 2 strawberries 172 time 18, 309 Temples 197-8, 31 safety 306, 309 surfing 42-3 tipping 21, 308 Galle Fort 13, 105, Arugam Bay 237 107-8, Ahangama 121 Tissa Wewa 134 13 Colombo 82 Horton Plains National Arugam Bay 11, 233-4, 11 Tissamaharama 22, 134-7, Park 15, 173-5, 15 diving 45 Hikkaduwa 99, 42 135 Jaffna 16, 262-71, hitching 316 Midigama 121 toilets 309 264-5, 16 Jaffna 263 Panama 239 tourism 279 Kandy 15, 144-58, Kandy 156 Pottuvil 238 tourist information 310, 146-7, 15, 28 North Sri Lanka 262 Weligama 123 see also individual Knuckles Range 161-2 swimming 40-1 Whiskey Point 238 locations Polonnaruwa 14, 206-12, World’s End 174 Swami Rock 247 tours 316, see also individual locations 283, 207, 208, 14 salt pans 255 Swayamghu Lingam 249 car travel 315 Sigiriya 10, 200-4, sea travel 313 swimming 40-1 cycling 313 201, 2, 11 shopping 25, 310, see Arugam Bay 234 also individual tea 302 Sinharaja Forest Colombo 71 Reserve 189-92 locations walking 70, 108, 110-11 Karaitivu 276 Uppuveli 251-3, , bargaining 310 train travel 8, 22, 316-17 252 14 Kottawa Conservation Uva Halpewaththa Tea languages 319, 321 transport 312-17, see also Forest 115 Factory 184-5 opening hours 308 individual locations Marble Beach 250 Sigiriya 10, 200-4, highways 315 Passekudah Beach 246 201, 2, 11 languages 320, 322 Urumale 261 V 318-20 travel to/from vacations 309 Sri Lanka 312-13 296 vaccinations 306-7 travel within Sinharaja Forest T vahalkadas 225 Reserve 189-92 Sri Lanka 313-17 Talalla 128-9 Valvettiturai 272-3 Situlpahuwa, 139 320-2 travel seasons, see also individual regions Vavuniya 258-60, 258 sloth bears 93, 138, Tamil people 296 188, 214 travel to/from Veddahs 162, 280, 296 Tamil Tigers, see Liberation Sri Lanka 312-13 Velanai 275 smoking 309 Tigers of Tamil Eelam snorkelling 23, 40, 45 travel within Vesak Poya 27 Tangalla 22, 130-3, 132, 8 Sri Lanka 313-17 Bentota 95 Viharamahadevi tanks 282 trekking, see hiking Park 67 Dutch Bay 92 Anuradhapura 220 visas 18, 310-11 Hikkaduwa 98 Trincomalee 247-51, 248 214 volunteering 311 Kalpitiya 92 tsunami 118 Sigiriya 202 Tsunami Photo Tissa Wewa 134 Museum 100 Taprobane Island 123 turtles 94, 130, 131, 134, W Map Pages 000 taxis 316 239-40, 253-4 Waikkal 91 Photo Pages 000 tea 35, 149, 300-2, 31, TV 309 walking 23, see also hiking, 333 Adam’s Peak (Sri Pada) watersports Whiskey Point 238 Wilpattu National 12, 28, 163-5, 192, 12 Bentota 95 white-water rafting 40, 43, Park 22, 93-4, 48 Colombo 70 Uppuveli 251 165, 316, 43 Yala National Park 138-9, Ella 180-1 weather 18, 26-8, 40 wildlife watching 24-5, 2, 48 Galle Fort 108, 110-11, 111 websites, see internet 46-7, 50, 234, 292, Wilpattu National Park 293-4, 295, 316, see Haputale 177 resources 22, 93-4 also individual animals Kandy 150 Weligama 123 windsurfing 43, 95 INDEX Arugam Bay 234 Kataragama 141 Wellawatta 68 Wirawila Wewa Bird Bundala National Sanctuary 137-8 Knuckles Range 161-2 Wellawaya 186-7 Park 13, 134, 13 Wolvendaal Church 61 Kottawa Conservation West Sri Lanka 53,  W-Y Horton Plains National women travellers 311 Forest 115 84-102, 85  Park 15, 173-4, 15 Monaragala 231 accommodation 84 World’s End 15, 173-5, 15 Kaudulla National Nuwara Eliya 169 climate 84 Park 213-14 Tissamaharama 22, 134 food 84 Kumana National Y Unawatuna 117 highlights 85 Park 239-40 Yala National Park 138- World’s End 15, 174-5, 15 planning 84-5 Millennium Elephant 40, 2 waterfalls travel seasons 84 Foundation 144 Yapahuwa 226-7 Bambarakanda Falls 175 Wewurukannala Minneriya National yoga Vihara 129 Park 213-14 Diyaluma Falls 186 Arugam Bay 235, 239 whale-watching 40, 43, 45 Pinnewala Elephant Dunhinda Falls 185-6 Beruwela 96 Dutch Bay 92 Orphanage 144 Kiruwananaganga Habarana 204 Falls 190 Kalpitiya 92 Pottuvil 237-8 Kandy 153, 161 Lovers Leap 168 Mirissa 17, 124, 17 Sinharaja Forest Reserve 189-90 Talalla 129 Ramboda Falls 166 Trincomalee 247 Turtle Watch Rekawa 130 Unawatuna 115-17, 118 Rawana Ella Falls 185 Uppuveli 252, 254 Uda Walawe National Yudaganawa 231-2 Park 10, 22, 188-9, 10 334 NOTES NOTES  ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 335

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