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Behind the Scenes ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 325 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. Bavinck, Marc-Olivier Bergeron, Marieke Holl, OUR READERS Marius Muraska, Mariusz Lewicki, Mark Rimer, Many thanks to the travellers who used the Markus Lindner, Matthew Ashbolt, Meike last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, Sier, Melissa Lazell, Michael Konefal, Moana useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Mutscheller N Nadine Blanc, Natalie Hedges, A Annele Keller, Alex Jones, Alexa Vlaming, Neil Hankinson, Neil Hart, Noor van Hapert Andrea Meier, Andrew Crouch, Anette Czepu- O Olle Klint P Paul Buxton R Randi Johnbeck, lowski, Angelique Braat, Anne Catrien Gielens, Rita Mensink, Roger Race, Ronnie Dunetz, Annemarie Robertsen, Annette Elben, Asit Rose Hawke S Sarah Parish, Saskia Beijering, Mukhopadhyay B Binia Fraser, Birgit Malin, Saskia Fernando, Shirin Reuvers, Shirley Sim, Blanc Nadine, Brat Caroline, Brian Woodgate Siegfried Schoen, Soeren Finkbeiner, Søren & C Catharian Kaffenberger, Cecilia Jensen, Grethe Iversen, Steve Jones, Stine Porsbjerg, Cecilia Rovelli, Cheng Huang Leng, Chris Oey, Suzanne Hamilton T Thomas Winther An- Christopher Rowland, Colleen Mavris D Dani dersen, Tim Giesberts, Tobias Vishvabaratha, Carranza, David Bruce-Steer, David Dimasi, Tony Knight, Tuomo Huuskonen V Véronique David Eisenrauch, David Engstrand, David Tay- D’haens, Virginia Scott lor, Dilsiri Welikala E Elad Wexler, Elisa Janszen, Erich Malter, Ernesto Sanchez Beaumont, Esther Hermans-Spijker F Floris and Marcella, AUTHOR THANKS Frans van Assendelft G Gabriel Corens, Gary Ryan Ver Berkmoes Heiden, Gemma Stewart, George Fogh, Geral- Thanks to all who made my time in Sri Lanka dine Plas Hans Ohrt, Herman Boerrigter H I a delight and shared valuable insights: Milroy Irene Söding James Smith, Jan Joost, Jane J Janaka and my old pal Juliet Coombe were Mason, Javi Molina, Jean-Marc Legras, Jeroen extremely helpful. Thanks to the myriad others Derichs, Jessy Nourrit, Joelle Abi Chaker, Joep who answered questions and offered advice to van Schalkwijk, John Evans, John Moore, John a seemingly confused traveller who did a lot of Turner, Jon McGowan, Jonathan Meyer Harri- note taking and always had one more question. son, Julia Antonova Karel Jan van den Heuvel K Off island, love and thanks to former Sri Lanka Rijnders, Kathryn Smyth, Kathryn Stanczyszyn, resident Alexis Averbuck, who gave me reason Katia Begall, Kevin Callaghan, Krupa Thakrar to leave. L Léa Deswarte, Lin Chia Ying, Louisa Johns- son Zea & Mario Zea, Luis Navas M Maarten 326 Stuart Butler ACKNOWLEDGMENTS First and foremost I must, once again, thank my wife, Heather, and children, Jake and Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Grace, for putting up with my extended pe- Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated riods away while working on this project and World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate (to Heather) for coping so admirably with two Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System BEHIND THE SCENES small children on her own. As always massive Sciences, 11, 1633¬44. thanks to my Sri Lankan friends Dimuthu Cover photograph: Stilt fishing, near Priyadarshana and family, HA Anura, Milroy Weligama. Jon Hicks/Corbis Fernando, Sena and Rashinika Kolamba- hewage, Stephanie and Palitha, Ramyadava Gunasekara, Juliet Coombe, Jai and Sumana and Sue and Faiesz, at Sharon Inn. Finally, thanks to all the other nameless Sri Lankans I pestered with questions about bus schedules and so on. Iain Stewart Thanks to Somey for scenic rides and great company, Mark Wyndham and the crew for the bike trip, Dimuthu for his hospitality and all in Mannar and Jaffna. And to James Smart, Joe Bindloss and the Lonely Planet team for their professionalism and help on this title. Destination Editors Joe Assisting Cartographers THIS BOOK Bindloss, James Smart Mick Garrett, Corey Hutchison, This 13th edition of Lonely Product Editor Amanda Rachel Imeson Planet’s Sri Lanka guidebook Williamson Cover Researcher Naomi was researched and written Senior Cartographer David Parker by Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Stuart Kemp Language Content Butler and Iain Stewart. The Book Designer Jessica Rose Branislava Vladisavljevic previous two editions were Thanks to Ryan Evans, written by Brett Atkinson, Assisting Editors Victoria Claire Naylor, the Kates, Stuart Butler, Ethan Gelber, Harrison, Kate Kiely, Kellie Karyn Noble, Angela Tinson, Amy Karafin and Ryan Ver Langdon, Rosie Nicholson, Samantha Tyson, Lauren Berkmoes. Christopher Pitts, Erin Richards Wellicome ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 327 Index A highlights 194 Negombo 90 Arugam Bay 234 accommodation 20, 304-5, planning 193-4 Unawatuna 116-17, 118 Bentota Ganga 95 see also individual Polonnaruwa 14, 206-12, Bundala National Park locations 283, 207, 208, 14 13, 134 budgeting 304 Sigiriya 10, 200-4, 201, B Galway’s Land National languages 318, 320-1 2, 11 Badulla 185-6, 185 Park 167-8 activities 26-8, 39-45, see tickets 157, 195, see bailas 283 Hikkaduwa 99 also art, Ayurvedic also individual Bambalapitiya 68 Horton Plains National treatments, birdwatch- locations Bandarawela 178-9, 178 Park 15, 174, 15 ing, boating, canoeing, travel seasons 193 bargaining 310 Kitulgala 165 cooking, cycling, danc- animals, see wildlife Knuckles Range 161 ing, diving, dolphin- bathrooms 309 watching, individual Koggala Lake 120 watching, golfing, hiking, animals Batticaloa 242-5, 243, 24 horse racing, kitesurfing, Bawa, Geoffrey 63, 72 Kumana Bird Reserve Anuradhapura 10, 215-23, 239-40 lace-making, meditating, beaches 8, 14, 22, 23, 39-45 paper-making, safaris, 281-2, 216 Minneriya National Arugam Bay 232-4, 238, snorkelling, surfing, accommodation 221-2 Park 213 239, 11 swimming, tennis, festivals & events 221 Muthurajawela walking, watersports, food 222 Batticaloa 242, 24 Marsh 86 whale-watching, history 215 Bentota 95 Nalanda Gedige 197 white-water rafting, Chempiyanpattu 274 wildlife watching, sights 215-21 Negombo 88 Elephant Pass 273 windsurfing, yoga tickets 223 Pottuvil 237-8 Galle 107, 115 Adam’s Bridge 261 tourist information 223 Pulmoddai 255 Goyambokka 129 Adam’s Peak (Sri Pada) 12, tours 221 Sinharaja Forest 28, 163-5, 192, 12 travel to/from 223 Hikkaduwa 98-9, 42 Reserve 190 Adisham Monastery 176 travel within 223 Jaffna’s Islands 274-6 Tangamalai 177 afternoon tea 35 architecture 25, 72, see also Kalkudah 245-6 Udawattakelle Sanctuary 150 Ahangama 121-2 colonial architecture Kalpitiya 91-3 Wilpattu National air travel 312, 313 art galleries, see museums Mannar Island 260-1 & galleries Park 93-4 airlines 312 Matara 126 Arugam Bay 11, 22, 233, 11 Mirissa 124, 39 Wirawila Wewa Bird airports 312 Sanctuary 137 accommodation 22, 234-6 Mt Lavinia 68, 76 Aluthgama 95-8 Uda Walawe activities 233-4 Negombo 87, 88 Aluvihara 196 National Park 10, 22, drinking 236-7 Amangalla 108 Nilaveli 253-4 188-9, 10 Ambalangod 102 food 236-7 Passekudah 245-6 Yala National Park Ampara 240-1 safety 237 Point Pedro 273 138-9, 2 Ancient Cities 54, 193-228, tourist information 237 southern Sri Lanka 103 boars 46-7, 138-9, 167-8, 194 travel to/from 237 Talalla 128 173-4, 189-90 accommodation 193 ATMs 308 Tangalla 130, 131, 8 boating 43 Anuradhapura 10, 215-23, Aukana Buddha 222 Trincomalee 249, 250 Batticaloa 245, 24 281-2, 216, 10 Aurudu (New Year) 26 Unawatuna 115-7, 118, 44 Bentota Ganga 95 climate 193 Ayurvedic treatments 13, 25, Uppuveli 251-2, 14 Kandy 151 food 193 96, 307, 13 Belihul Oya 175 Pigeon Island National Colombo 69-70 Bentota 95-8 Park 253-4 Ella 182 bicycle travel, see cycling Pottuvil 238 Hikkaduwa 101 birds, see birdwatching books 278, 284, 285, 286, Map Pages 000 287, 288, 291, 295 Kandy area 151, 161 birdwatching 24-5, 47, 50, Photo Pages 000 Mirissa 124 2, 10 Borella 64-5 328 Bridge on the River Dowa Temple 179 car travel 22, 250, 314-16 highlights 57 Kwai 165 Gadaladeniya Cargills Main Store 59, 16 history 58 Buddha statues, see Temple 160 casinos 80 internet access 82 also Buddhist temples Gangarama Maha cell phones 18, 19, 309 itineraries 58 Aluvihara 196 Vihara 99 cemeteries neighbourhoods 59 Gangaramaya Anuradhapura 219, 10 Commonwealth War planning 56-7 INDEX Temple 63 Aukana Buddha 222 Cemetery 251 safety 82 Kataluwa Purwarama Buduruwagala 187 Kandy Garrison shopping 17, 22, 80-2 Temple 120 Dambulla 197-9, 31 Cemetery 150 sights 58-63, 67-9 Kelaniya Raja Maha B-D Degal Doruwa Raja Kandy War Vihara 69 tourist information 82 Maha Vihara 150 Cemetery 158 Kirinda Temple 138 tours 70 Dowa Temple 179 Ceylon Tea Museum 149 Kirivehara 140 travel seasons 56 children, travel with 51-2, Maligawila 232, 5 travel to/from 82-3 Kudimbigala
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