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The Hair Ster Eotype Is Dead Rock ’N’ ROLL DARK BRAINY BROWN cOLD chesTNUT DITZY BLONDE guLLibLe goLdeN MOUseY BROWN THE HAIR STER EOTYPE IS DEAD Fiery redheads, clever brunettes, dumb blondes – how we’re finally defying hair colour conventions… Words: AMERLEY OLLENU KOOKY PEAch NOtice-Me MiNt creepY cOBALT BEAUTY FIEsTY AUBURN RAcY RED good-tiMe giNger serious siLVER boriNg beige ice queeN greY THE HAIR STER EOTYPE IS DEAD Fiery redheads, clever brunettes, dumb blondes – how we’re finally defying hair colour conventions… Words: AMERLEY OLLENU Misfit PURPLE NOT-A-giNger sTRAWBERRY gothic bLAck BEAUTY unny, isn’t it. study’s authors. They discovered Marilyn Monroe dyed her subject tested four different wigs We’ve spent that, “participants imagined ‘mousy’ hair blonde her career to see which appealed best to men centuries blondes to be younger and more skyrocketed, surpassing the in social situations. Overall 127 F campaigning attractive but lacking leadership success of other brunette starlets men approached her in the blonde for the vote, skills – which aligns with the of the time like Sophia Loren.” wig, 84 in the brown, 82 in the shattering the dominant stereotype. Yet when we So what of the brunette? She black but only 29 in the red. glass ceiling became everything the blonde described a blonde woman with THE FUTURE OF cOLOUR and fighting for equal pay – yet ‘wasn’t’ – in fact a British study on more dominant behaviours to The years of social conditioning society still, all too often, disregards hair colour and heterosexual participants, we found that, unlike have led us to a space where hair our actions or achievements and attraction found that 62% of men brunettes, blonde hair seemed to colour has been defined for and by instead defines us solely by our associated brown-haired women protect the wearer from the social the male gaze – from Hollywood hair colour. From advertising with stability and competence. backlash of being a dominant casting directors to business campaigns to TV shows, a nuanced Another survey found that though woman in a male-dominated world.” leaders, categorising women’s bias has for decades attached hair men found blondes ‘sexier’ they hisTORY OF sTEREOTYPEs existence into tick-boxes of colour to personality types. Just married brunettes because they shades and matching personality think how often blonde is pre-fixed While frustrating to live with, where were more ‘stable’. Offensive, much? types that just don’t exist in this by sexy, nevermind other lazy these stereotypes come from is Most of the studies leave out simple dichotomous way. It’s an pairings such as feisty redhead, fascinating. In ancient Rome, women with black hair who are example of the patriarchy insidiously a boring brunette or a kooky pink. prostitutes were forced to wear either viewed as ‘mysterious’ like seeping into our everyday lives. As Meanwhile, celebrities are blonde wigs or bleach their hair to Uma Thurman in Pulp Fiction or with Carey’s example, we know the portrayed as having everything mark them out from dark-haired ruthless like Cruella, Maleficent male-dominated tech industry is from a rebirth to a breakdown rife with well-publicised sexism. based solely on their latest hair But for someone of her stature to shade of choice. Hair colour, it ColOUR Chameleon follow these man-made ‘rules’ by seems, counts for more than we Katy Perry’s amazing hair tone transformations dying her hair to get ahead opens give it credit for – and far more a new set of quandaries – namely than is both feminist or healthy. – are women being complicit in And it’s not just a case of perpetuating the stereotypes of reductive tabloid speak. Earlier this hair colour and trying to manipulate month, Silicon Valley CEO Eileen them to our advantage? Berdalh Carey, who runs Glassbreakers thinks so: “At an individual level (which provides companies with what we can do is to stop software aimed at attracting perpetrating these ideas that just a diverse workforce), revealed she don’t lift up the sisterhood.” 2011 Her natural 2012 A mix of 2013 Katy dyed her hair after being told by However, the tide is actively brown turns blue and purple channels her colleagues that the investors she turning on these attitudes, and a bold rosy hue. for her high pony. inner goth. was pitching to would feel more rather than a mass feminist comfortable dealing with a brunette outrage, it’s partly the result of the rather than a blonde woman. “I was advancements in hair colouring told for this raise [of funds], it techniques which allow you to would be to my benefit to dye my change your hair so many times hair brown as there was a stronger you defy definition. ‘Bond’ pattern of recognition of brunette treatments like Olaplex work from women CEOs,” she told the BBC. inside the hair strand to repair And when she interviewed other damaged locks where the women, she found some were also 2015 Grown out 2015 Later that 2017 Katy opts structure has broken down. It’s strategically darkening their hair. lilac makes Katy year she goes for a crop in essentially allowed us to change But it’s not that unusual, says art-school cool. classic auburn. traditional blonde. hair colour more easily and applied colour psychologist Karen frequently than ever before – Haller. “Unconsciously or, in this especially if that colour change case, consciously, impression noblewomen. However, it had the and countless other gothic Disney is dramatic. It’s what’s enabled management is a process in which opposite effect and blonde villains. Women of colour have celebrities to dramatically change we attempt to influence perceptions became more desirable, creating historically been ignored by this hues one week to the next – of others by controlling what they the link between blonde hair and categorisation (save a cursory notably Katy Perry, Beyoncé and see – usually via clothing. In this sexuality. “What ingrained this ‘exotic’ tag). Yet it is redheads, who Rihanna (who all also wear wigs, case, it’s been done via hair colour.” and extensions – nobody’s hair can Yet despite Carey’s experiences “Years of social conditioning have led take six colour changes in a week) other research suggests that there Using hair colour as a style are a disproportionate amount of us to a space where hair colour has accessory (like a new handbag or blonde female US senators, CEOs been defined for and by the male gaze” this season’s red boot) has filtered at Fortune 500 companies and US down to the high street. Now we’ve university presidents, despite only stereotype in modern times was make up less than two per cent got the technology, the inspiration around 2% of the world’s classic cinema,” says Carol of the world’s population that and the freedom to be whatever population and 5% of Caucasians Dyhouse, author of Heartthrobs: historically have suffered the most. colour we choose, with societal in the US being natural blondes. A History Of Women And Desire. Just being born a redhead was diktats ignored entirely. And it’s “This was paradoxical given the “The idea of the blonde bombshell enough to warrant death during made things easier and more ‘dumb blonde’ stereotype, and we – a mixture of sexual prowess and the time of the Spanish inquisition accessible for all hair types, wanted to explore why this could innocence – leapt into prominence though now they’re most including afro, mixed and be the case,” says Professor in the Thirties – think Jean associated with being ‘fiery’. In Asian hair, which traditional Jennifer Berdahl of the University Harlow’s platinum locks. And a study by the Université de colouring methods haven’t ADDITIONAL Words: ANITA BHAGWANDS, ALICE MANNING PHOTOGRAPHY: reX, PIXELEYES reX, ALICE MANNING PHOTOGRAPHY: BHAGWANDS, ANITA Words: ADDITIONAL of British Columbia, one of the there’s no denying that once Bretagne-Sud, in France, a female been kind to. STYLIST.CO.UK 47 BEAUTY Charlotte Mensah, At home colour cheat sheet multi-award winning afro hair stylist, says bond What shade do you feel like being today? Find your natural hair colour on the left, then treatments like Olaplex are a must discover your options for a radical change from an instant wash out hit, a slight tint, (and godsend) for colouring afro a medium colour shift and a total overhaul… and mixed hair, allowing women of colour to experiment with dye. MEDIUM “Above all, it’s much harder to insTANT TINT DRAMAtic stereotype someone when they’re ✃ blonde one minute, red the next,” she says. Pixie Lott Lee Stafford Superdrug Garnier Technologically, we’ve moved Bright Hair Bleach Colour Olia in way past the four dye colours that Chalks Blondes Kiss Vibrance 6.66 Vivid were available in the Fifties (red, Collection of Colour in Permanent in Garnet, black, brown and blonde) which in 2975C, Playful Pink, 11.11 Silver, £6.99 limited what we could be. That’s why £4.99 £5.99 £4.49 the ‘vivid colour’ (think emerald green and sunshine yellow) sector WHITE BLONDE is growing exponentially, explains colourist and owner of London’s Not Another Salon, Sophia Hilton, whose bright yellow hair has Superdrug Redken Garnier Bleach become a trademark, but also “an Pick & Mix Blonde Idol Nutrisse London in extension of her personality and Instant Custom- Crème in 7N The Big a tool for self-expression.” They’re Colour Spray Tone Gold Nude Dark Pink Super one of the salons giving rise to in Grey, Conditioner, Blonde, Cool Colour, Instagram’s myriad rainbow hair BLONDE £3.99 £18.50 £5.79 £6 colour trends. “We are much more in control of our colour now,” says Hilton.
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