..... RJZ RIGHWAT/S OP P OSITE PAGE FRON T COVER "RAINBOW IN THE CANYON" BY CHUCK ABBOTT. T he moods "CANYON D EPTHS" BY ESTHER HENDERSON. Man and his of Grand Canyon change with each passing moment, day by day, merrymaking is dwarfed, indeed, by the depth and immensity of Grand season by season. I t refl ects a ll the nuances of time and the weather. Canyon. One may spend hours read ing the yardstick m easurements of It is never lovelier, though. than when a storm comes up and a rainbow the Canyon itself, and yet not be prepared fo r the feelin g of bi gness is formed to lend enchantment to enchantment. that the C anyon gives with its first view.

THE GRANDEST CANYON Of THEM All

The Grand Canyon is all things to all people. To the less books and dissertations tell ing the Canyon story, and probably inspired it is just a hole in the ground. To others, it is cosmic the real story will still be untold. poetry. It is hard to describe because the Canyon we see today The Canyon has inspired a lot of poetry. We refer you with is not the Canyon we saw yesterday or will see tomorrow. pride and pleasure ( to prove our point) to E lizabeth Fleming This issue is devoted to the Canyon subject. We have tried McFarland's "T his is the Grand Canyon" published herein. to p ut together, in word and picture, a glimpse, at least, of a Mrs. McFarland has devoted years of research to the Canyon been place that has been descri bed as the "titan of chasms" and as subject and quotes some of the famous poets who have inspired by the grandest canyon of them all. We feel this is "one of the seven wonders of the earth." When we say glimpse, one of the most notable articles ever to grace our pages and please do not accuse us of understatement. In these few pages we know you wi ll enjoy reading it just as much as we enjoy there is room only for a s urface treatment o f something that presenting it to you. has inspired wri ters and artists through all the years it has We also take you on a vacation tour of the Canyon (both the books been known by civilized man. If you could gather all R ims) te ll ing you where you can stay, how much it costs and that have been written about the Canyon, you would have a what you can do. Y ou'll find a Canyon vacation a lot of fun. sizable library. If you doubt that, consult "The Books of the More and more thousands do each year. Colorado River and the Grand Canyon," a selective bibli­ As freq uent visitors to the Canyon, w e never cease to be ography by Francis P. Farquhar (Glen Dawson-Los Angeles, amazed by the effi cient way the area is administered by the 1953, $5 .00). One's head literally spins when one reads the National Park Service. In closing, we would like to acknowl­ titles li sted by Mr. Farquh ar that are devoted to description. edge the debt all of us owe to our devoted public servants who appreciation, explanation of Grand Canyon. Long after all of protect so well one of our greatest national treasures. To them, us are gone, presses in the future will continue to grind out are these pages humbly dedicated .. .. R . C.

Vol. XXX No. 3 MARCH 1954 RAYMOND CARLSON, Editor GEORGE M. AVEY, Art Editor HOWARD PYLE Governor of Arizana AR IZONA HIGHWAY COMMISSION C . A. Calhoun, Chairman . . . Mesa John M . Scott, V ice-Chairman . Show Low Freel D . Schemmer, Member Prescott Presents Fra nk E. Moore, Member . D ouglas Grover J. Duff, Member . . Tucson P atrick C. Downey, Secretary Phoenix THE R. C. P erkins, State H wy. Engr. Phoenix Thad G. Baker, Special Counsel Phoenix GRAND CANYON of ARIZO NA HIGHWAYS is published monthly b y t he Arizona Arizona Highway Department a few miles north of the confl uence of the Gila and Sal t in Arizona. Address: ARIZO NA H IGHWAYS, Phoenix, Arizona. $3.00 per year in U. S. and possessions; $3.50 elsewhere: 35 cents each. Entered as second-class matter Nov. 5, 1941 at Post Office in Phoenix, under Act of March 3. 1879. Copyrighted, 1954, by Arizona Highway Department.

~ 115

Allow fi ve weeks for change of addresses. Be sure to send in the old as well as new address. GRANO CANYON NAT I ONAL

vastly different and separated as they are by the mighty rnoclati ons, tra nsportation, shops and services and whose chasm th eir approaches involve considerable geography. Sea­ hospitality roles are of prime importance in developing the sons will play an important part in your plans and your own Grand Canyon's prominence as the foremost scenic attraction interest and temperament will define in part your wants and in the U nited States. establish your selection of activities. Within the area you As your offi cial hosts the Park Service employes depict to can run the range of variation in climate from sub-tropic at the highest essence the philosophy of this agency - that the the Canyon floor to the Canadian zone on the North Rim. splendor of unsurpassed nature is for the appreciation , the The South Rim, about 7000 feet elevation, may have a tem­ understanding and the enjoyment of all people. Their services perature of 90° in August, while the North Rim, some 1200 are offered to you free as part of your heritage in this country feet high er, will be a cool 80° and there is likely to be 110° and likewise extended in the spirit of American friendship to weath er at Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the gorge, only travelers from throughout the world. The only charge made 2500 feet above sea level. by the Park Service is the entrance fee for those who drive, The rock-opened chapters of geological history are re­ $1 per automobile or motorcycle and $1 per trailer. Of in­ vealed at the Grand Canyon as in no other one spot, from terest to many is the information that you are permitted to the oldest to the newest the chapters are written into the bring your pets into the Park, the only stipulation being that walls. The many zones of life and the ecology of nature are they must be kept on leash at all times. displayed in a small locale not found anywhere else and offer To return to the prosaic , you still want to know, "What a laboratory for gathering information that might otherwise can I do at the Grand Canyon?" Your own interest will deter­ have to be sought over many continents. Here is a paradise mine to a large extent what you will want to do, but some by for artists and photographers with the full glory of nature's are musts if you are truly to appreciate this splendor of FRANKLIN colors before you. Here, too, the beckoning out-of-doors nature. Since the variance in seasons and natural endowments and offers leisure walks for everyone and the more avid are is so great we will present the North and South Rims sepa­ J EA N.N E · S. GRAND challenged by remote peaks and canyons and the web of rately, their activities, accommodations and methods of trans­ NATIONAL PARK-ARIZONA trails that descend into the gorge. And to one just seeking portation. rest, rel axation and repletion of mystery and magnificence, SOUTH RIM the Canyon calls - "come unto me - bring your worries, Like all great works of nature an explanation of this phe­ your burdens, your skepticism, your frustrations and I will nomenon is necessary if you are to comprehend its magnitude. Everybody wants to see the Grand Canyon of Arizona. more of the mystic spell of the mighty gorge. The pressure give you peace and faith and power. I will open for you The naturalist programs of the Park Service are the perfect At least that is a fa ir conclusion because over nine million of on-coming visitors prevents an extension of reservations in trails of new concerns and greater dimensions." answers and it cannot be emphasized too strongly the need visitors have been awed by its splendor since the site became these busy months and gives wisdom to the suggestion of Let it be said that actually if you stay around the Grand for the expert interpretation of scholarly men if your visit is a National Park in 19 19. Of these millions who have come planning your own vacation if possible at a slightly off­ Canyon you will find yourself drawn to its Rim, spending far to be memorable and meaningful. The South Rim, since it is many have lamentingly exclaimed - "Why didn't we plan to season time. Last year some 729,181 persons came to the more time than you now imagine, sitting on a rock ledge open all year, can offer more permanent facilities for this stay longer?" or "We surely must come back again." The Canyon, and whichever month they arrived found unsur­ leaning back against a pinon or spruce tree just looking presentation. At Yavapai Observation Station, just one and a fact remains that one cannot comprehend the greatness of passed vistas to inspire them, for you can greatly enjoy a out over the vast expanse. While you watch, the changing half miles from Grand Canyon Village, much of the Canyon the Canyon by a quickie vi sit. For when you see this wonder visit at any time with the gigantic panorama changing with colors found in the play of lights and shadows as the rays of is seen before you and the complete history of the earth's of creation you will want to capture its full inspiration re­ the various seasons and each period offering its own reward. the sun run the arched gamut from east to west, constantly existence is bared to man. Its story, told by a naturalist and vealed in the moods of its constantly changin g panorama. April, May and early June bring particularly lovely days alter th e outlines of peaks, crags and canyons in the abyss, illustrated with a huge topographical map, exhibits and a That is why a fu ll vacation at the Grand Canyon is a mem­ at the South Rim, which is open all the year, or the fall and you will be entranced by the cl ouds that drift across the battery of telescopes, will convey within an hour a deeper orable experience. weather of late September, October and into November is skies often dropping within the Canyon's vastness, or per­ understanding of the miracle of the ages that produced the It was John C. Van Dyke who wrote these intriguing words: delightful. The North Rim, open only for the five warm chance will witness a summer storm bringing a rainbow arch chasm. You can drive to this majestic point, go by sight­ "The great chasm cannot be successfully exploited com­ weather months, is equally appealing in spring with its pro­ that becomes lost in the depths. Yes, you may note the seeing bus or walk the short distance over the rim path , but mercia ll y or artistically. It cannot be ploughed or plotted or fusion of flowers and the autumn months bring the beauty changin g season and the snowflakes that come to whiten whichever way you choose it should be first on your activities poetized or painted. It is too big for one to do more than of brilliant colors in the aspen and pine forests besides the the Rims and upper wa ll s, and the seemingly evergreen list. creep along the Rim and wonder over it. Perhaps that is not splendor of the Canyon. The time you plan your visit will in verdure in the little oases one mil e below those Rims. All of Mecca for those with a deep interest in the natural science cause for lamentati on. Some things should be beyond us - some ways determine what aspects of life there will be most these things, with the bird calls and scamperings of little of the Canyon is the Worksh op and Museum where a con­ aspired to but never attained." Such a land calls to you and alluring - the gleam of snow upon the Rim and against the animals in and out of rock crevices and the gentle deer tinuing program of research is being carried on by Louis will give you back from its depths and immensity of mystery redwalls, the full sweep of colors in spring and fall, or the running or walkin g un afraid even in the midst of the curious Schellbach, Park N aturalist. In the Wayside Museum of and awesome beauty a vacation that fill s the void of the warmth and full sunshine of summer - go any time that you tourist camps, will hold you. Archaeology, 20 miles east of the Village on the Rim road, yearning soul, gives rest to a weary mind as it is challenged can, but if you have a choice we suggest the times just before All of the magnitude of the Canyon has an efficient coun­ the story of earl y man in the Southwest and his place in the to greater vi sions, and new vigor to a body being cramped or just following the rushing mid-summer months. terpart in the efforts of 111 an to provide fo r your comfort and earth's history is revealed through exhibits and in an exca­ in small pl aces doing small routine things . Vacation calls As you ponder and plan, several questions come to your necessiti es while enj oying an ideal vacation. The services vated pueblo ruin nearby. Completing the Park Service's from the Grand Canyon to you! mind. How do I get to the Grand Canyon? What can I do extended to yo u by various agencies and organizations will explanatory discu ss ions of the Canyon are the Campfire A fu ll vacation will bring great rewards but if such cannot while there? What are the facilities and what are the costs? m ake your stay co111pl ete. Responsible for your recreation programs conducted each evening during the summer season possibly be your plans then arrange in advance for an ade­ Undoubtedly others will come to mind, but we hope we can and entertainment is the National Park Service under Dr. at the public campgrounds and the talks given in the evenings quate stay to realize the full glory of this natural creation. so completely answer your queries and stimulate your desire H arold Bryant, Park Superintendent. The roads, trails, regis­ in the Lodge lounges. The natural histo ry and geology of the During the peak travel months of July and August, when that you will be Grand Canyon bound for your next vacation. tration, public campgrounds, the preservation of wildlife, the gorge are presented by naturalists with the aid of color slides between five and six thousand persons per day stand on the In planning your stay the climatic variations within the naturali st programs and administration of all park activities are and the visitors themselves usuall y share in these programs rims of the Canyon, many travelers are bitterly disappointed area will be important to you as well as the means of approach. the tasks of this government agency. This includes supervision to offer entertaining h ighlights. that their reservati ons cannot be extended so they may absorb The two Rims of the Canyon, the North and the South, are of the concessioners who provide the superb hotel accom- All of these talks and exhibits will pique your interest in

P AGE T WO ARIZONA HIGHWAYS MARCH 1954 descends too far down into the depths. appetite and the pleasant camaradarie be long remembered. One can hike from Rim to Rim over the Kaibab trail, The return trip the next morning is up Kaibab trail with its staying all night at Phantom Ranch for $10 which includes rugged switchbacks. The Phantom Ranch trip is $32.75 per accommodations, two meals and a box lunch for the second person and for an extra day at the ranch, which includes a day, or you can camp at a designated spot along Bright Angel side trip to Ribbon Falls, the charge is an additional $33.38. creek. Knapsack and camping trips have proved increasingly Much of the cost is computed on the hourly use of the mules popular each year and it is a familiar sight to watch a group and when you consider that every single thing at the ranch, of energetic hikers, laden with food and gear, start down the all its furnishings, its food for guests and for the animals, is trails. For all concerned, it is possible to have mules sent to brought in by mule pack train, over the same trails, the price meet you for the return trip to the Rim, but because it is not exorbitant. involves special guide service the charge is necessarily higher. Fishing is fine in Bright Angel creek and from the ranch There are many excellent short hikes that even the most a trail also leads to Clear creek where the trout are awaiting timid can safely undertake with confidence. From Hermit's the fisherman. Within the Park fishing is permitted all year Rest there is a three-mile round trip to a series of natural with 10 the limit. The Arizona state license is obtainable on bridges, rock arches only six feet in height that are perfect the South Rim at Moqui Camp near the Park entrance, and miniatures in conformation and color. Another is six miles on the North Rim at Jacob Lake. It is an unequalled experi­ round trip, also from Hermit's Rest, down the old Hermit ence to be camped deep within the Canyon's walls and enjoy trail to an inviting spring. Not to be overlooked are the eating a trout you have successfully played out of a swift footpaths to Yavapai Point and Powell Memorial that provide stream. . interesting studies. The activities at the South Rim also can include a trip to Here let us inject some advice about clothing, equally Havasupai Canyon, home of one of the smallest tribes of applicable whether you ride or walk, that will make your Indians in the United States whose picturesque abode is within trips into the Canyon more enjoyable. It's simply a caution the confines of the National Park. The village of Supai is to protect you from the weather conditions of each season for located on ever-flowing Havasu Creek with its three waterfalls Visitors to the Canyon for the first time are wise to attend the the trips are fascinating at all times of the year. In the summer of great height, and a three-day pack trip to this green valley Park Service lectures where they receive a thorough explana­ the sun's rays are intensified within the gorge, so brimmed of orchards and abundant growth is full of delight. Arrange­ tion of the area. The bus trips along the Rim are made more ments for this trip, which also may be undertaken by hikers, enjoyable by these lectures given by trained Park personnel. hats and long sleeved shirts ( both can be rented at the hotels) are advisable. Seems unnecessary to add a case of sunburn are made at the Grand Canyon Village. Supai offers tourist or heat fatigue to perhaps a few sore muscles and the spirit cabin accommodations and campgrounds, but no meals are will have tough sledding responding to the Canyon's splendor served, guests either bringing their own supplies or obtaining if the body is uncomfortable. On the same score, in the late them from the limited stock in the Indian-owned store. · fall, winter and early spring months, when there may be snow For you who are photographers and eager to record on upon the Rim and the crisp mountain air fills you with vigor film a lasting impression of the majestic Canyon there is a seeing as much of the Canyon as possible. From each of the rim drives and three meals at El Tovar hotel, is an ideal and ambition, just remember that although it will be some myriad of shots, ever changing, ever wonderful. A word of scenic points along the South Rim roads, east and west of the arrangement for those forced to spend only a very short time degrees warmer down in the gorge, it still won't be balmy. advice from an expert will aid you in obtaining the best Village, you will discover new and startling views as the full and costs $12.75 per person, $6.40 for children. Motor trips There are many miles both up and down where the trails are results. Norman Rhodes Garrett, FRPS, noted photographer panorama of ever-changing colors and formations opens be­ subject to federal transportation tax. in shadow and warm clothes are your guarantee for a pleasant whose inspiring pictures have appeared in many ARIZONA fore you. Westward on the West Rim Drive you will find Bridle paths extend along the rim also and into the forest, trip. HTGHW Avs, has this to say: "First and foremost, use a sun­ Powell, Hopi, Mohave and Pima Points and finally Hermit's offering Jong-remembered rides in this scenic wonderland. Undoubtedly one of the most famous and stimulating shade whether you're shooting in black and white or color, Rest, a picturesque building of canyon boulders with a mas­ Saddle horses may be rented in a regular party with guide for means of travel in the world is offered by the Grand Canyon and secondly, don't fight your light meter but believe it, even sive fireplace. Eastward the rim road leads to Yavapai Obser­ $4 for two hours, $6 for half a day or $9 for a full day's ride trail mules - your invitation to a thrilling adventure. There's though it gives a surprisingly high reading. For black and vation station, to Yaki, Moran and Lipan Points, the Wayside during summer months only. always much ado and excitement when the day trips leave the white use panchromatic film and a yellow filter to obtain a Museum and to the Watchtower at Desert View with its A we some as the view of the Canyon is from standing upon corral at the head of Bright Angel trail at 9 a.m. The return true reproduction. In color use a Skylight filter to reduce the sweeping vista of the Canyon, Kaibab National Forest and its rims, the most indelible impressions of its greatness can is about 5 o'clock with a pleasant noon stop for a box lunch. over-abundance of blue. The same advice is given to motion far into the Painted Desert and Hopi-Navajo country. Light only be realized from within the gorge. No able-bodied person The plateau trip to the brink of the inner gorge high above picture enthusiasts. For the best results shoot your pictures refreshments are served at Hermit's Rest and Desert View so should overlook this opportunity - for a memorable mule the raging current of the river is $10, while the river trip, in the early morning or late afternoon since the Canyon goes you need never shorten your meditation of the gorge because trip or a hiking expedition down the safe and wide trails somewhat longer and ending at noon on the banks of the swift flat during the middle of the day." of hunger. maintained by the Park Service. Truly the Canyon is a hiker's Colorado, costs $11.50. Even though you have doubts of your own skill with a The daily sightseeing motor trips, provided by the Fred paradise - for the stout-hearted who know with confidence Phanton Ranch, that intriguing place of mystery and an­ camera there is no reason to leave the Canyon without some Harvey Company, are the ideal way to see the South Rim what they can undertake, and for the "good walkers" who ticipation in the bottom of the Canyon on Bright Angel creek, colorful pictures, for the thousand moods and hues of the views, and some who have their own cars prefer this method will want to venture partway down one of the trails. For the extends a welcome to all who can possibly arrange their gorge have been captured for you by other photographers so their full attention can be given to "just looking." Busses advantage of all there is a manual available at the Park schedules and budgets. It is a never to be forgotten two-day and artists whose works are on sale. Lookout Studio, perched leave the El Tovar hotel and Bright Angel Lodge both morn­ Service headquarters that will make your trip pleasant and trip to this restful haven in a cottonwood grove. Starting on the very rim at Bright Angel Lodge, is the mecca for ing and afternoon for these trips. The morning drive, west­ informative. Trips to the Colorado river down Bright Angel down Bright Angel trail at 10 a.m. your mule party will photographers and can supply all camera needs as well as ward to Hermit's Rest, is $3 per person and the afternoon or Kaibab trails provide a fascinating change with each step travel to Indian Gardens, then over to the river trail to follow develop and print your film. There is an excellent collection trip to Desert View is $6 or both drives, including light as the Canyon walls heighten above you and the details of the inner gorge and cross the Colorado over the 440-foot of canyon prints and color slides for sale here as well as in refreshments at Hermit's Rest and the Watchtower, for only down yonder come into closer view. However, these are suspension bridge not far from Bright Angel creek. In the Kolb Brothers Studio, the shops at El Tovar hotel and Bright $7. Rates for children, six to eleven years, are half price. The strenuous trips for the unwary and that long last mile back summer the swimming pool is inviting, and throughout the Angel Lodge and Verkamps. Grand Canyon all-expense tour, which includes the complete up to the Rim should be carefully considered before one , year the ranch meals will more than satisfy your increased The Kolb Brothers travelogue and lecture, given each

PAGE FOUR ARIZONA HIGHWAYS MARCH 1954 evening in their studio at the head of Bright Angel Trail, will An excellent cafeteria with very reasonably priced meals is interest all visitors. The adventure of the boat trip made by located in the main building which also includes a gift shop. Emery and Ellsworth Kolb down the Colorado river as re­ Opposite this grouping of buildings and at Desert View corded in film is a unique experience in which you see and are the public campgrounds, maintained by the Park Service feel the treacherous power of the river. Prints of outstanding for the free use of visitors bringing their own equipment or Indian artists are found in the curio shop along with beautiful house trailers. Although travelers are welcome to bring their pieces of polished petrified wood. trailers, no electrical or sewage connections have been ar­ For a true portrayal of the Southwest Indian's craftsman­ ranged. ship the Hopi House, opposite El Tovar hotel, is the center. 1¥1 all accommodations we cannot stress too strongly the In this authentically built reproduction of a Hopi mesa home, need for advance reservations, except in the public camp­ the best of Indian art is found, from the silver and turquoise grounds. The summer months are crowded and your stay may jewelry, colorful rugs and costumes to a wide selection of have to be limited to a few days because of on-coming souvenirs. No visit is complete unless you schedule your travelers. That is why off-season vacations have a definite time to see the Hopi dances presented each afternoon before advantage; you can extend your visit when the appeal of the the building, except in inclement weather when the dancers mighty Canyon calls to you. perform inside. Collections of Indian handicraft and Canyon To portray better the many other facilities found at the souvenirs are also found in beautiful displays at Verkamps, South Rim you must realize that in many ways the Grand whose founder brought the first curios to the South Rim in Canyon is unique among National Parks since there is a 1896, at the shops in the hotel and lodge and in the Village permanent population of about 1,000 persons in the Village store. and during the summer months this is almost doubled. Thus Movies are shown at the Community House two nights a many services and conveniences of a modern community are The South Rim looms high above pool at Phantom Ranch. week and the informal programs provided by cowboy musi­ offered. Besides the expected services of telephone, telegraph, Hopi House fe atures displays of Indian handicrafts. cians for dancing at Bright Angel Lodge are additional enter­ laundry, souvenirs and information, the Village has a well­ tainment. The entire area along the South Rim roads abounds stocked general store operated by Babbitt Brothers Trading in scenic picnic spots with the Village store ready to supply all company with a large grocery section, fresh produce and the ingredients for an outdoor meal. Most important is the meats, clothing, hardware and other travelers' needs in warm feeling of congeniality found among Canyon visitors. addition to a soda fountain and drug department. The garage Coupled with your own absorbing interest in the natural offers storage and repair facilities, a nearby service station splendor of the gorge with its daytime color and fantasy of provides all car necessities. An excellent, well-staffed hospital shadow and shape by moonlight, all of this means a wonderful under the direction of an able physician serves the commu­ vacation. nity the· year round, and is set up for any emergency. The In answer to your question "What accommodations will I Grand Canyon Community church, a vital part of the Village, find?" the reply can state that there are many types, de­ holds its Sunday school classes at 9: 30 a.m. and worship pending upon your tastes and finances, from free campgrounds services at 10: 30 a.m. and 8 p.m. During the summer sunrise to one of the finest resort hotels in America. The hotel, lodge, services are held at the "Shrine of the Ages" on the Rim. auto camp and transportation services at the Rim are all Natio_nal organizations are well represented including under the efficient Fred Harvey system. Rotary International, which meets each Friday noon at El El Tovar, the most famous resort hotel in the Southwest, Tovar hotel; American Legion post and auxiliary; Masonic has extended its hospitality to Canyon visitors for over forty­ Lodge; PTA; Business and Professional Women's club; Boy and Girl Scouts, and the National Federation of Federal Lookout Studio is popular place to view the Canyon. eight years. Its range of accommodations is from $3.50 per For 48 years El Tovar has been host to the world. person for room without bath to a limited number of deluxe Employes. All of these activities create a steadfastness and Founder of Verkamps brought fi rst curios to the Rim. suites. The dining room with large picture windows over­ community spirit so readily felt if one remains in this setting Fred Harvey's Bright Angel Lodge is popular resort. looking the gorge serves breakfast table d'hote for $1.50, for long. lunch $1.50 to $2 and dinner $2 to $3.50. At the Bright With so much awaiting you at the Grand Canyon, you Angel Lodge prices for both accommodations and meals are now ask, "How do I get to the South Rim?" By automobile approximately twenty-five per cent lower. A room without over modern highways from any point in the country; by the bath for one is $2.50 to $3 .50, with bath $4.50 to $7 .50 and Santa Fe railway which operates daily trains to the Rim; by the deluxe rim cabins with fireplaces are available for $10 to motor bus service, or by airplane with Frontier Airlines land­ $12 for two. The a la carte meals are at moderate prices and ing its planes at the Flagstaff airport, carrying passengers from include convenient counter service. Barber and beauty shops transcontinental lines at Phoenix, and by connecting bus to are further conveniences for guests. At both the hotel and the Canyon. lodge children from three to seven are half rate and youngsters From U. S. Highway 66, the main east and west route eight and over full rate. Some additional accommodations for through Northern Arizona, motorists drive to the South Rim guests are offered at Rowe's Well and Kachina Lodge. over State Highway 64 from the junction between Williams The Grand Canyon Auto Lodge cabins with comfortably and Flagstaff, or you can take U. S. 89 north from Flagstaff furnished sleeping and housekeeping facilities have a wide to Cameron which then connects with the rim road. All of variance in prices depending on the number in a family group. these routes are kept open throughout the year. Cabins without bath but with running hot and cold water are The branch line of the Santa Fe to the South Rim junctions $3.50 for two; with bath, $4.50, and for four persons, $6.50. at Williams with certain mainline trains carrying through

PAGE SIX ARIZONA HIGHWAYS MARCH 1954 Pullmans which are taken directly to the Canyon. An estimate trip and the abundance of wildlife enchants young and old. the departing guests are ready to leave the young men and of the travel costs by railroad can be computed from a few Because of heavy winter snows, visitors may come to the women forsake their various duties to g ather in front of the starting points in the United States, either directly by Santa Fe North Rim only between May 1 5th and October 15th. Ac­ Lodge and sing an unforgettable farewell. Both of these events or connections with other railroad lines. From Minneapolis, a commodations at Grand Canyon L odge and the full facilities are indicative of the warm friendliness that prevails through­ first class round-trip ticket would be $105.35; from New of the area a re available from June 18th to September 10th, out the season. York, $178.12; San Francisco, $54.80, and New Orleans, but the cafeteria and sleeping cabins are available throughout Although the Park Service has not established museums $99.60. The charge for berths is additional and coach travel the whole North R im season. Spring flowers are in abundance on the North Rim, its effi cient corp of naturalists and rangers of course less. here during that season and early fall is outstandingly beau­ so expertly explain the geological and natural splendor of the The Pacific Greyhound Lines and Continental Bus System tiftrl:: · To see an Alpine fall as well as the Grand Canyon is area that each visitor gains a well-rounded k nowledge of the both operate busses to Williams and Flagstaff where connec­ worth the adventure of late season travel. Canyon. One of the most i nteresting features of the entire tions are made with the Fred Harvey line to the Canyon from Visitors to the North Rim are welcomed of course by the park program is the nature walk, a d efinite must at t he N orth Williams and the Navahopi Tours operating between Flagstaff ever-congenial National Park Service and a wide program of R im. E ach morning, leaving at 9 o 'clock from the Lodge, a and the South Rim. Private plane owners may land at the activities is made available so their stay will be enjoyable and naturalist conducts a tour along one of the trails to Bright Grand Canyon Airlines airport located 18 miles from the impressive. Like the Santa Fe-Fred H arvey operations on the Angel Point or Transept Canyon, interspersing his talk on South Rim or at Valle Airport. Over Canyon flights are avail­ South Rim, the combined talents of the Union Pacific Rail­ the history of the area with a humanized discussion of the able in summer, where services are maintained. A new airport road and the Utah Parks Company form the integrated service plant and animal life found along the way. The walk i s not near the park entrance is contemplated. unit which supplies transportation, lodging, eating and other strenuous but is suffi ciently long to permit each person to The means of transportation are excellent and varied, necessary facilities. form an individual appreciation of the greatness. The Camp­ offering convenient ways by which you can reach the South The shorter season permits some highly i nteresting activi­ fire talks, presented each evening except Sunday at the public Rim of this scenic wonderland where so much awaits your ties not included in the year-round schedule at the South R im. campgrounds, are always informative interpretations. The arrival. However there is no direct bus route between the Many of the unique features center around the young college nature talk in the Lodge recreation hall is an additional South and North Rims. students who are employed by the Utah Parks Company to feature, followed by the e mployes' clever program and in­ NORTH RIM do most of the work around the Lodge and Auto C amp. In formal dancing. On the North Rim one experiences a closeness to the selecting these young men and women their individual t alents T he North R im with its dense forested beauty and spec­ Canyon that does not exist elsewhere. Approximately 1,200 for entertainment are taken into account, resulting in not tacular C anyon trails o ffers a w onderland to hikers and feet higher than the South Rim, it permits visitors to look only a proficient group of workers but an excellent combina­ campers, to the thousands who take the mule trips and to down upon the vast temples which form the background for tion of dramatic, vocal and instrumental young artists. This horseback riders. The s ame precautionary measures as to the panorama from the South. The approach to this inspiring leads to two features enjoyed wholeheartedly by everyone. clothing and health to assure pleasant t rips are urged for all view is through one of America's most beautiful forests, the One is the program the young people present in the evenings who enter into these activities. The footpaths along the rim stands of pine, fir, spruce and The mule trip into the Canyon is one of the Kaibab, with its dense virgin in the recreation hall of the Lodge following the nature talk. are always inviting to visitors and here one's own energy and highlights of a vacation on the two Rims. quaking aspen. Secluded Alpine meadows add lure to the The other i s the "singing away of the busses" each day. As interest will determine how far you will wander afield.

Grand Canyon Lodge, North Rim, operated by Utah Parks Company, blends gracefully into the rugged b eauty of Grand Canyon. The drive from Jacob Lake to N orth Rim, through t he K aibab Forest, is one of the most scenic trips in the West. since the forest country and abundant wildlife are additional supai Canyon from the South Rim. Your own motor trips or Kaibab Trail, the excellent rim-to-rim trail, is an exc1tmg surroundings. Commanding a superb scenic view, the Lodge attractions besides the Canyon's grandeur, these are always conducted tours into the Navajo and Hopi Indian reservations route for the mule trips and hikers. In places the trail is cut is built on the very rim so that one can look through its huge busy counters. The beauty and exquisite workmanship of will take you into the spectacular Painted Desert and high into the sheer redwall limestone creating a series of half­ windows directly down into the colorful depths. This is a Indian jewelry, rugs, baskets and pottery are also found in mesa country where these important Arizona tribes reside. tunnels, and the entire trip to Roaring Springs, location of strangely-moving experience, standing under a man-made roof fine displays at the curio shops along with souvenirs, postcards Sunset Crater is not far away and you can have the experience Cottonwood station, or on to Ribbon Falls or Phantom with the full glory of nature so close at hand. During the and other necessities. of seeing dinosaur tracks found in the desert. Ranch is a constant delight as new vistas of the Canyon dinner hour a concert of organ music lends enchantment to Combined with all of the excellent accommodations, activ­ But it is the strength of the Grand Canyon that will draw are revealed. The trail mules, under the management of the setting. ities and services at the North Rim is a wide variance of you to Northern Arizona with an appeal irresistible and affable Jack Church, offer the most memorable means of At the Lodge are found the dining room, lounge, recreation transportation methods by which you reach the Grand Can­ unsatisfied until you have stood upon one or both of its Rims. transportation. The round trip to Roaring Springs is $12 room, curio shop, postoffice and other services the traveling yon - each is an ideal answer to your question, "How do I It offers a soul-inspiring vacation that will instill poignant and th e two-day Phantom Ranch journey with an overnight world needs. Grouped under the pines around it are the get there?" U. S. Highway 89 , that scenic route from Mexico memories for years to come. Van Dyke described the Can­ stay at that picturesque setting is $35. Arrangements can be sleeping cabins, also built of rustic stone and logs, offering to Canada, brings you to Jacob Lake and the junction with yon's mystic appeal when he wrote that "wrapped in her made for special trips to Clear Creek for unexcelled fishing accommodations from $2.50 to $9 per day depending on your State Highway 67 for the 43 mile trip to the Rim. Because purple mists and under her blue immensity of sky she should and camping or the spectacular trek the length of Kaibab selection. The dining room serves outstanding food with table of heavy snowfall, this approach road is closed from October rest forever aloof and inviolate. The mystery that surrounds Trail to the opposite rim can be made from either rim for a d'hote meals at $1.50 for breakfast, $ 1.75 for lunch, $3 for 15th to May 15th. Whether you are driving from the north her should remain a mystery." Yes, this it is, but somehow charge of $96.25 round trip. dinner and a special steak dinner for $4. The meals, but not or the south, U. S. 89 will bring you through spectacular you, as you sit and look and listen, become a part of the vast Saddle horses for rides through Kaibab forest and along lodging, are half price for children under eight years. country to the Canyon area. mystery and are wafted away into a land of serene beauty and the rim are available with a competent guide conducting the The highly popular auto camp and cafeteria, located one The Union Pacific railroad offers fine transportation, in­ unconquerable quest. Many hours you will so spend with the parties to the most scenic points. A full day's trip is $7 .50, mile north of the Lodge, have fine accommodations for trav­ cluding many tours. Its terminus for Canyon travel is Cedar Grand Canyon if you woo her company and welcome her half day $5. elers. Standard sleeping cabins with two double beds and City, Utah, where travelers are met by Utah Park Company pleasant spell. From the panoramic view at Cape Royal, reached by car running cold water are $4 for two or $5 for four. A limited busses for the drive to the Rim. One of the outstanding advan­ or the motor busses, there is another excellent trail to a number have been set up for housekeeping but you must tages of this method of travel is that you may conveniently spring and restful picnic area. The motor bus trip to Cape provide your own cooking utensils and dishes. Meals are include visits to Bryce Canyon and Zion National Parks and A Pork Ranger conducts nature walk from the North Rim. Royal and Point Imperial, which is the highest point along served at the cafeteria in the main building with the special Cedar Breaks National Monument along with your vacation the Canyon's rim with an elevation of 8,801 feet, is a wel­ combination club menus offering tempting food for the vaca­ come convenience offering an inspiring three-hour tour at $3 tion appetite that is sure to be stimulated by the clear air plans at the Grand Canyon. Your round-trip rail fare over per person. At Cape Royal, which juts far out into the gorge, and activity. Breakfast is served from 70 cents to $1.25, lunch the UP and connecting railroads from Boston, for instance, one gains a sweeping view in all directions with the distant $1 to $1.50 and dinner, $1.50 to $2, with half prices for would be $187 .61 first class or $137.43 coach; from St. Louis, desert and South Rim panoramas contrasting with the near­ children under eight years. In the cafeteria building are also ' $98 and $75.60; from Seattle $78.45 and $60.55, and from at-hand study of formations like Wotan's Throne. Farview found a curio shop and general store with limited supplies for' Atlanta, Ga., $135.70 and $104.10. These rates do not in­ and Vista Encantadora are other scenic points on this eastward the camper's needs. clude federal tax and costs for berths would be additional. road. One of the most beautiful drives in the entire Canyon Aside from these services maintained by the Utah Parks One of the most popular tours offered by the railroad and area is to Point Sublime and journeys also can be arranged Company there are two public campgrounds established by Utah Parks Company from the terminus at Cedar City to the to remote hunting camps such as Big Saddle and Pine Valley the National Park Service at Bright Angel Point and Neil North Rim is all inclusive for $43.25, which takes you by way in the Kaibab National Forest. Undoubtedly the most astound­ Springs. The settings are perfect for a relaxed and comfort­ of Zion National Park to the Rim and the return trip is via ing trip from either rim is to Thunder river, 30 miles by able stay and the facilities well supervised. Many visitors to Cedar Breaks National Monument. This includes all meals automobile from the Lodge to Little Saddle, then by trail for the North Rim also enjoy the tranquil surroundings at Kaibab an~ci_ , overnight lodging, but you may easily extend your stay 14 miles of spectacular vistas to where a tremendous spring Lodge, located on VT Meadow just five miles from the Park at the North Rim for only $8.25 American Plan per day with erupts from the redwall limestone. Horses may be rented for entrance. Some of the first accommodations for travelers standard cabin accommodations. This arrangement is ideal the trail trip either before or after the hunting season, but to the Grand Canyon were established here 29 years ago, and for those who do not plan a motoring vacation and is a happy this journey is for the hardy only. No hunting is allowed in the Lodge continues to offer accommodations from May 15th combination of both train and bus travel to take advantage a National Park. until after the fall hunting season. There are also splendid of the full spectacle of scenic attractions in the area. Those who want to find restful retreats and unsurpassed accommodations at Jacob Lake, operated by the Bowman Cross-country bus lines make convenient connections too. nature will welcome the old fireroads through the forest. family. At Cedar City the Burlington Transportation company and Motorists travel at their own risk although the Forest Service All of the essential services that one would expect to find Interstate Transit Lines operating between Salt Lake City has kept the roads in fair condition. Information available are well established - postal, telephone, telegraph, barber­ and Los Angeles are scheduled to meet the Utah Parks Com­ from the rangers will make these side excursions outstanding shop, beauty shop, and laundry. The health of visitors is pany busses, and Jacob Lake is a scheduled stop for the Con­ for they will bring you in close contact with the abundance of guarded by a registered nurse on duty at the Lodge through­ tinental System with transportation then available to the Rim. animal and bird life found here as nowhere else. There are out the season. A modern service station is located near the For the airplane traveler one may take Western Air Lines the rare Kaibab squirrels which unfortunately delight in cafeteria and any necessary car repairs or towing may be to Cedar City and thence by motor coach, or come by Frontier sitting in the middle of roads and too often pay the extreme obtained from the Utah Parks Company garage. There are Airlines to Flagstaff , where daily bus service is available via penalty when motorists do not avoid hitting them, the band­ washing machines and irons to be rented as a further con­ Continental Bus northward. No method of bringing visitors tail pigeons and dusky grouse, the graceful deer and many venience to vacationers. to the North Rim has been neglected and all offer expedient others to intrigue you. Church services are held each Sunday morning at Grand accommodations to assure pleasant vacations. The answer to "What accommodations will I find?" brings Canyon Lodge. The Catholic service is at 6: 45 a. m. and the Besides the splendor of both the North and South Rims of information of the very best in hotel, auto camp and camp­ Protestant worship, conducted by employes, is at 10 o'clock the Grand Canyon, which will hold you spellbound and in­ ground facilities. Grand Canyon Lodge, majestically perched with visiting clergymen of any denomination invited to par­ spired, there are other outstanding scenic attractions within on Bright Angel Point, is the perfect work of man in com­ ticipate. easy driving reach of both rims that will heighten your appre­ bining the grandeur of rocks and beauty of the forest into a Well-stocked photographic supplies are provided at the ciation of the great Southwest. Already mentioned are Zion series of structures that harmoniously blend into the Canyon Lodge and auto camp so no one need "miss a shot," and and Bryce National Parks from the North Rim and Hava-

PAGE TEN ARIZONA HIGHWAYS MARCH 1954 " Watched the changing splendors from ledge to ledge ..." "Twixt iron walls thou rollest turbid waves ... " ESTHER HENDERSON ESTHER HENDERSON

People from all over the world agree that Nature's most ence at Grand Canyon than they have expressed. sublime spectacle is the Grand Canyon of Arizona. All who However, a survey of all that has been written about Grand visit it are thrilled by its majestic mystery and those who have Canyon does bring at last what we have been seeking. There not yet seen it are eager to know more about it. are poets who have written about Grand Canyon with the But it seems to be beyond the power of most of us ordi­ skill and imaginative insight to express effectively the unique nary mortals to describe Grand Canyon and the emotions it beauty of the Canyon, the feelings it arouses, and the thoughts arouses. Visitors' comments vary in feeling from "Just rocks it inspires. -what the 'ell!" to "Now I have seen God's face!" They also For those of us who have visited the Canyon, such poetry vary in length from President Howard Taft's concise "Golly, keeps vivid our recollections, puts into words what we long what a gully!" to purple passages of page-long paragraphs­ in vain to express, and deepens our understanding of the which still leave much to be desired. No wonder someone experience we have had. For those who have not yet been said, "When the Creator made Grand Canyon, He forgot to there, this poetry gives glimpses through many eyes of Grand make any adjectives to go with it! " We are likely to fumble Canyon and its profound effect upon man. for words and finally remark helplessly, "Well, it's beyond No single poet has ever-or perhaps can ever-adequately me!" express the Canyon's infinite variety and man's varied reac­ Many people, of course, have been more successful in tions to it. But from the best of the poetry, interpretations expressing themselves. Volume after volume has been pub­ can be chosen which like bits in a mosaic finally form a lished about Grand Canyon. A whole library can be filled with complete word-picture of Grand Canyon. books about different facets of this one fascinating subject. "This," we can say with satisfaction, "is Grand Canyon!"

Explorers, historians, scientists, novelists are among those ~ who have recorded certain aspects of the Canyon. But in The amazement of our first look at Grand Canyon can most cases they have merely given us facts or vague but never be forgotten. Modern man learns much about the Canyon wordy descriptions. Interesting as these records often are, we before seeing it. Still we share the incredulous wonder felt by are still unsatisfied. We realize there is more to our experi- the first to view it:

PAGE TWELVE • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • MARCH 1954 "I have seen that which is mysterious . .. " - ESTHER HENDERSON [; "I dare not tell of you, lest while the tale were told ..." - CHUCK ABBOTT "A silence deeper than the dearth of sound ... - HUBERT A. LOWMAN " ... each one makes his own Canyon . . . " - TAD NICHOLS FOLLOWING PANEL "Inconstant as the colors of the sea ... " - HULBERT BURROUGHS "That this is sublimity for the human soul . . . " - RAY MANLEY "This was the Devil's Brickyard . .." - RUSSELL K. GRATER

"Thou settest splendors in my sight, 0 Lord!" - FRANK PROCTOR [; "Moulded and fashioned forever in durable ageless stone" - HULBERT BURROUGHS "These embattlements where Titan hosts have warred." - ART RILEY "Such splendor was unreal . .. " - JOSEF MUENCH "Here, now, the eternal miracle is renewed." - GENE MORRIS r\ . sounds of wind and water storms, all frozen and held . ," - JOSEF MUENCH L/ <) "I know what becomes Of the many-colored days ..." - CHUCK ABBOTT

Upon its swimming edge The silence of the Canyon contributes much to its mystery. The first men of America wondering A stillness deeper than the dearth of sound Watched how the changing splendors from ledge to ledge, Broods over thee: a living silence breathes To pinnacle from plinth Perpetual incense from thy dim abyss .... Shifted, as if by restless spirits fanned; How still it isl Dear God, I hardly dare And how the diminished eagle's wing To breathe, for fear the fathomless abyss Was as a gnat's along this labyrinth Will draw me down into eternal sleep. Of gorges. From "The Grand Canyon-Daybreak" From "The Grand Canyon" Henry Van Dyke Edgar Lee Masters Color adds its enchantment to the Canyon - color that We have a fellow-feeling for the Spaniard Cardenas who changes constantly with the shifting of light and shadow. was the first white man to give the news of Grand Canyon to The sun and the air are endless with the civilized world more than four centuries ago. silver tricks - the light of the sun has You, Cardenas the Spaniard, three centuries crimson stratagems - the changes go on before the next first white man, in stop-watch split seconds - the blues slide You, with your handful of starvelings down a box of yellow and mix with stood on this Rim of the Canyon, reds that melt into grey and come back And looked down at flecks of water in the deeps, saffron clay and granite pink - a weaving Like yellow petals fallen. gamble of color twists on and it is You scrambled a few hundred feet down anybody's guess what is next. the sheer rock wall, From "Many Hats" And knew you would never drink Carl Sandburg of that tawny torrent. These changing aspects make Grand Canyon at the same You gave it up, and thirsted, and cursed your guides. time the fascination and the despair of artists and writers- And your leader, Coronado the adventurer, I dare not tell of you, lest while the tale Thought you mad when you told your story - Were told a cloud should pass and all untrue Mad of thirst in the desert, Would be my words. No sooner would the hue Dreaming of loud deep rivers Of sunset gold unfold your depths, unveil In demon-haunted caverns. Your soul, than towers, silver-tipped, would hail But I believe you. The moon, the maiden of the night, and you Here where I stand you stood - Would wrap yourself in that dim, misty blue On the rim of the world. Of her - so e'er I had begun, I'd fail. From "At O'Neill's Point" From "The Grand Canyon" Harriet Monroe Lou Ella Archer Even in our day, Grand Canyon seems out of this world, Many attempts are made to portray the Canyon when in a literal sense rather than in slang. sunrise and sunset make the lighting and colors the most dramatic, but awed silence still remains the most eloquent I have seen that which is mysterious, tribute. Aloof, divided, silent; It is the shifting colors of light and shadow that give to the Something not of this earth. massive formations of the Canyon an atmosphere of ethereal Suddenly the endless dark green piney uplands insubstantiality. Stopped. Yellow, red, grey-green, purple-black chasms fell There gigantic walls of rock, swiftly below each other. Sheer as the world's end, seemed to float in air On the other side, Over the hollows of space, and change their forms Strong-built, arose Like soft blue wood-smoke, with each change of light. ... Towers, whose durable terraces For, over them, the abysmal tides of air, were hammered from red sandstone, Inconstant as the colours of the sea, Purple granite, and gold. From amethyst into wreathing opal flowed, Beyond Ebbed into rose through grey, then melted all A golden wall, In universal amethyst again. Aloof, inscrutable. From "The Book of Earth" It was hidden Alfred Noyes Behind layers of white silence. Deep rose and violet-blue are perhaps the most character­ No voice might reach it; istic Canyon colors, but there are also myriad gradations of It was not of this earth. every color often intermingled as in an iridescent changeable From "The Grand Canyon of the Colorado" taffeta. Explanations based on physical laws of color seem John Gould Fletcher too prosaic - poetic fancies are more appropriate.

PAGE TWENTY-FIVE • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • MARCH 1954 Now I know what becomes All of these elements of the Canyon's grandeur make it Of the many-colored days, easy to imagine that it must have been designed for some­ Rose yellow evenings, thing more than human. Red mornings and the hours By Zeus! When alt the hills Shout word of this Are low and round like grapes To the eldest dead! Titans, Amber and purple-juiced, Gods, Heroes, come who have once more And the leaf-colored earth A home! Pulses with light like sap. "The Grand Canyon" Now I know where they go, Adelaide Crapsey Touching Sandia, Jemez, and San Francisco peaks, So widespread is this association of the Canyon with figures Wing and wing to the west. legendary lore of many races, They are on their way to the Grand Canon. from classical mythology and that such names have come to be accepted as the official There they lie, overlapping of Grand Canyon. In motionless unreality. designation for many parts And all the dim blue dawns, In a different aspect, these same elements sometimes sug­ The lost twilights, hyacinth-hued, gest destruction that has overwhelmed the glories of the past- Cuddle down in the cleft, in the deepening gulf beyond, Old as the world Far down in that vast hollow of violet air, And all its many-colored days. Winding between the huge Plutonian walls, "The Grand Canon" The semblance of a ruined city lay. Mary Austin Dungeons flung wide, and palaces brought low, After the first dazed impressions of the Canyon's vastness, Altars and temples, wrecked and overthrown, the silence, the changing colors, comes wonder at the array of Gigantic stairs that climbed into the light mighty forms filling it. Nearly everyone who looks at Grand And found no hope, and ended in the void: Canyon starts mentally cataloging the forms he sees. One It burned and darkened, a city of porphyry, "Soft wine-tinted mists close over them •••" - JOSEF M UENCH man's list begins thus: Paved with obsidian, walled with serpentine, Battering rams, blind mules, mounted policemen, Beautiful, desolate, stricken as by strange gods trucks hauling caverns of granite, elephants Who, long ago, from cloudy summits, flung and another man, Who is God and why? Who am I and At Grand Canyon, one can hardly escape meditating upon grappling gorillas in a death strangle, cathedrals, Boulder on mountainous boulder of blood-red m arl why? Time - and Timelessness. Spread before one at a single arenas, platforms, somersaults of telescoped rail­ Into a gulf so deep that, when they fell, He told himself, This may be glance lies layer above layer of the earth's formations, each road train wrecks, exhausted eggheads, piles of The soft wine-tinted mists closed over them something else than what I created through aeons beyond the power of scientists to skulls, mountains of empty sockets, mummies of kings Like ocean, and the Indian heard no sound. see when I look - how do I compute - and mobs, memories of work gangs and wrecking crews, From "The Book of Earth" know? For each man sees him­ one sempiternal page sobs of wind and water storms, all frozen and held Alfred Noyes self in the Grand Canyon - Baring those awful hieroglyphs of stone, on paths leading on to spirals of new zigzags - Somewhat the same conception may be expressed in terms each one makes his own Canyon ... darkly scrolled From "Slabs of the Sunburnt West" of the ridiculous rather than the sublime - before he comes, each one brings In the deep Book of Earth. Carl Sandburg and carries away his own Canyon ••• This was the Devil's Brickyard; here were From "The Book of Earth" Another sees Grand Canyon as From "Many Hats" the kilns to make the Kitchens of Hell; A lfred Noyes cleft Carl Sandburg made to last And carved into a hundred curving miles after bricks enough were At the same time that the Canyon reveals origins so Hell a million years, the Devil said, Regardless of what each person's reaction may be, the Of unimagined architecture! Tombs, ancient, it makes the span of man's life as an individual and "Shut 'er down"; they had a big pay-day individual c an hardly fail to be affected by the Canyon's Temples, and colonnades are neighbored there even as a race seem incredibly minute, a moment's breath night and left it busted from hell to subtle speH. A possible exception is that unhappy breed of By fortresses that Titans might defend, compared to a million years. For breakfast; the Hopis looked it over and tourist (American, I need not add) who remarks after a And amphitheatres where gods might strive. Man was not, when first their mythic shapes decided to live eighty miles away where hasty look, "OK, now we've seen Grand Canyon." Then with Cathedrals, buttressed with unnumbered tiers Emerged phantasmal in the Great Gulf's terror; Powell, Hance, the Santa Fe, tense impatience, " Well, come on, can'tcha? Let's get goin'!" Of ruddy rock, lift to the sapphire sky there was water; then came Nor shall man be when the last silence drapes , and Fred Harvey with Of course, he doesn't actually see Grand Canyon at all - he A single spire of marble pure as snow; the boys shooting the rapids Their desolation's drear and deathless error. El Tovar. is too preoccupied with his own restless rush to be some­ And huge aerial palaces arise From ",Wountains in the Grand Canyon" where else whenever he has arrived anywhere! But the longer Like mountains built of unconsuming flame. From "Many Hats" Cale Y oung R ice the stay at Grand Canyon, the more fascinated one usually Along the weathered walls, or standing deep Carl Sandburg becomes with the endless variations of the Canyon's aspects Some are oppressed by such a reminder of their insignifi­ In riven valleys where no foot may tread, Whatever phase of the Canyon one considers, there is and of the moods and musings they inspire in the onlooker cance. They realize, too, how meaningless is man's invention Are lonely pillars, and tall monuments always an emotional effect far more important than mere content to yield himself to their sway. of Time, to which he has become a slave. Of perished aeons and forgotten things. sensory impressions. Perhaps the secret of Grand Canyon's My sight is baffled by the wide array fascination for the sensitive beholder lies not in what is For this is more than rock and air, Yes, let this be dedicated to Time Of countless forms; my vision reels and swings actuall y perceived, but in the thoughts and feelings it arouses. than hands may touch, and Ice; a memorial of the Human Above them, like a bird in whirling winds. Each person necessarily tends to interpret his experience or eyes may think they see ... Family, which came, was, and went; From "The Grand Canyon- Daybreak" in terms of his own individuality - From "Primal" let it stand as a witness of the Henry Van Dyke One man says, There goes God with an army of banners, W illiam Haskell Simpson short miserable pilgrimage of man-

PAGE TWENTY-SIX • AR IZONA HIGHWAYS • MARCH 1954 kind, of flame faiths, of blood and fire , and of Ice which was here first and will be here again - Faces once frozen you shall all be frozen again - the little clocks of Man shall all be frozen and nobody will be too late or too early ever again. From "Many Hats" Carl Sandburg Grand Canyon often arouses an actual sensation of terror, physical as well as mental in origin. In its sheer depths is the ever-present threat of sudden destruction for any who may be reckless or merely heedless momentarily. It provides no quarter for wishful thinking nor personal dominance. Here mortal power avails little. In certain aspects the very splen­ dors of the Canyon seem grim, forbidding, even inimical to man. Thou settest splendors in my sight, 0 Lord! It seems as though a deep-hued sunset falls "No toiler of the earth has wrought as I . .." - RAY MANLEY Forever on these Cyclopean walls, These battlements where Titan hosts have warred, And hewn the world with devastating sword, In such contemplation, one may receive the comfort of From fears and sorrows which assail the breast. sensory impressions, others value also the emotions aroused, And shook with trumpets the eternal halls a momentary healing release from the trivial tensions that From "The Grand Canyon" but some are not content without trying to comprehend the Where Seraphim lay hid by bloody palls nevertheless bind so tightly. Edgar Lee Masters Canyon intellectually. Less personal than the other reactions, their interest has wider implications for man's whole phi­ And only Hell and Silence were adored. I came upon it suddenly, To sophisticated modern man, so beset by continual in­ losophy of life. Lo! the abyss wherein the wings of Death And I could only feel trospection and so self centered, Grand Canyon may give the One of the first questions raised is concerning the force Might beat unchallenged, and his fatal breath Immensity and mystery­ simple sense of cosmic unity natural to many primitive which formed Grand Canyon. Scientists write volumes in Fume up in pestilence. Beneath the sky Such splendor was unreal. ... peoples, a sense uncomplicated by consciousness of personal answer, an answer that may be condensed into one word - Is no such testimony unto grief. The little cares that fretted me identity and oblivious of individual limitations. erosion. Their learned explanations may be satisfactory until Here Terror walks with Beauty ere she die. Were lost in shining space - And you, for first time looking or the last - one actually sees the Canyon. Then their scientific terms seem Oh! hasten to me, Love, for life is brief! My heart exulted I might see stranger of other breed and time - inadequate for the reality. "At the Grand Canyon" The light of glory's face. you too belong. There is an initial shock of astonishment as one catches George Sterling From "Grand Canyon" Here, where red rock is gashed to granite, a glimpse far below of the Colorado River, maker of Grand Irene W etch Grissom To many, however, Grand Canyon gives a feeling of se­ and gnaws the river-wolf; Canyon. Dwarfed by the depth, it almost escapes notice - curity, with its changeless realities symbolizing the absolute Another may experience a much deeper reaction, a reac­ Here, where that you are floats out and out in an ephemeral world. tion in which the mystic in man's nature triumphs over the and sisters with the vast. at this height skeptic and he attains in an instant of insight the emotional From "Primal" Soundless and still, and sinuous as a strand When the free thunder-spirit Of yellow vapor. Had built and carved these terrace walls, satisfaction years of intellectual inquiry had not yielded. For William Haskell Simpson the time being, at least, he is From "The Grand Canyon" Completing his task of ages, An ultimate result of such a feeling is the longing for a Edgar Lee Masters lifted to infinity, He wrote upon them final merging of identity with the Canyon: It is still more astounding, though for opposite reasons, In dark invisible words, Consoled and calmed, inspired, Should I by chance deserve some last reward from earth,­ to stand on the bank of the Colorado River, after a half day's "It is finished." And made to feel that somehow he must be jolting journey muleback along miles of narrow, winding, Silent and windless, Part of the scheme which he has glorified .... The rewards of earth are usually unwholesome;- One single thing I would ask for, steeply descending trails. Nothing else can make itself heard The forever completed The searching heart that questions the final boum, above the mighty thunder of the swift and turbulent water. Is never broken but by clouds •••• Sounds what it is, and why it must return Burn my body here. Yet still behind them, To dust, is stayed and made to rest Kindle the pyre Down at the darkest depths, miles down, U nscarred, unaltered, Here where its sense of grandeur is possessed Upon this jutting point: the Colorado River grinds, toils, driving The work stands finished. By grandeur. Here Nirvana is attained Dry aromatic juniper, the channel deeper. ... Smooth as glass Without a cry of protest, Through beauty, which is peace. Lean flame, blue smoke, run the streaming waters - then a break for protest is uncompletion, Here biding the mortal fate which is ordained, Ashes and dust. into rapids, into tumblers, into spray, Moulded and fashioned forever Time, Space, the Vast Caprice The winds would drift the ash into voices, roars, growls, into commanding monotones in durable ageless stone, Which trifle with man's heart by faith constrained, Outwards across the canyon, that hunt far corners and jumping- And on every surface is written For an ecstatic moment cannot shake To the rose-purple rim of the desert off places. In strong, invisible words: A deep indifference, a wise content. Beyond the red-barred towers. From "Many Hats" From "The Grand Canyon of the Colorado" "It is finished." That this sublimity for the human soul Carl Sandburg John Gould Fletcher From "The Grand Canyon of the Colorado" Is here its thirst to slake Here is a force of nature with such strong individual char­ John Gould Fletcher Brings sweet release Many visitors to Grand Canyon are satisfied fully by acteristics that even modern man is tempted to personify it:

PAGE TWENTY-EIGHT • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • MARCH 1954 Let all the shining pillars signal, God! The invisible thought that sees; thought that reveals Fierce Colorado, prisoned by thy toil, Who dupes his heart with immortality,­ He only, on the mystic loom of light, The miracle of the eternal paradox - And blindly toiling still to reach the sea,- Man is a living lie,- a bitter jest Hath woven webs of loveliness to clothe The pure unsearchable Being that cannot be Thy waters, gathered from the snows and springs Upon himself,- a conscious grain of sand His most majestic works .... Yet IS, and still creates and governs all . . . • Amid the Utah hills, have carved this road Lost in a desert of unconsciousness, 0 Beauty, handiwork of the Most High, Far away Of glory to the Californian Gulf. Thirsting for God and mocked by his own thirst. Where'er thou art He tells his Love to man, Along the unfathomable abyss it flowed, But now, 0 sunken stream, thy splendour lost, From "The Grand Canyon-Daybreak" And lo, the day breaks, and the shadows flee! ... A harmony so consummate that it shared 'Twixt iron walls thou rollest turbid waves, Henry Van Dyke If God were blind thy Beauty could not be! The silence of the sky; a song so deep Too far away to make their fury heard! The Canyon may seem to others the result of a creative From "The Grand Canyon- Daybreak" That only the still soul could hear it now: From "The Grand Canyon-Daybreak" impulse rather than mere natural force, yet still without pur: Henry Van Dyke Now every morning the Creative Word Henry Van Dyke pose. Its mountains - Moves upon chaos. Yea, our God grows young. Indeed, for those who meditate deeply, Grand Canyon Here, now, the eternal miracle is renewed. It is easy to go a step further and imagine the Colorado Each a primeval vastness, shaped by hands may - like a great symphony - blend varied concepts into speaking in first person - Whose cosmic strength carved idly, then forgot, Now, and forever, God makes heaven and earth. harmony. th" In half-created awfulness here stands, From "The Book of Ear My brother, Man, shapes him a plan It opens, and it opens, and it opens,- Alfred Noyes And builds him a house in a day, For sun and wind and cloud and rain to rot. The abyss of Heaven, the rock-leaved Book of E arth, But I have toiled through a million years No chaos do they seem; but as the work And that Abyss as dreadful and profound So we see that Grand Canyon is "all things to all men." For a home to last alway. Of a lone God, or one to purpose blind - Locked in each atom.. . . Those who know the Canyon best may accept a ll these inter­ I have flooded the sands and washed them down, Who could not his creative urgence shirk, Man is himself pretations as valid, however contradictory some may seem at I have cut through gneiss and granite, Yet without love or hope has wrought his mind. The key to all he seeks. first. Each gives us a partial glimpse of the Canyon - and No toiler of earth has wrought as I, From "Mountains in the Grand Canyon" He is not exiled from this majesty, through it of man's relationship to the whole scheme of nature Since God's first breath began it. Cale·Youn g Rice But is himself a part of it. To know itself. H igh mountain-buttes I have chiselled, to shade Those who go a step further may find solace in the reason­ Himself, and read this Book of Earth aright ••• "You knock at any door of the universe," says John Bur­ My wanderings to the sea. ing that what is created cannot be greater than that which Were to discover music that out-soars roughs, "and Infinity comes to answer." Certainly this is true With the wind's aid, and the cloud's aid, created it. His plodding thought, and all his fables, too; of Grand Canyon. The more familiar it becomes the more mysterious it seems. While it fascinates us with its revelations, Unweary and mighty and unafraid, If this gorge came from that which is not Love, A song of truth that deepens, not destroys it remains e ver beyond our comprehension. We end with I have bodied eternity. Nor Will, nor Vision gazing many-eyed, The ethereal realm of wonder; and still lures From "The Chant of the Colorado" A force alone which pours out fair, venene The spirit of man on more adventurous quests the .feeling - Grand Canyon Cale Young Rice Life as a blind and heedless tide; Into the wildest mystery of all, The Miracle of reality which he shares .... States theorem Creation - But many seek for an answer beyond anything the Colo- And we thrown here are of Man that doubts Could mortal phrase rado River can present. Its unconcern, nor planned for, nor foreseen - sound, Formula for Canyon Yet that which awakens thought is it but thought, All but the sensuous veils of colour and At sight of thee, thou sullen labouring slave and weigh, It might metaphor Seeing it taxes man beyond his power? The appearances that he can measure Of gravitation,- yellow torrent poured t, Cosmic equation. That which stirs love is it risen and Wrought Trusts, as the very fashioner of his doub From distant mountains by no will of thine, the worlds, This is Grand Canyon! Of flame no brighter than man's passionate hour? The imponderable thought that weighs Through thrice a hundred centuries of slow Fail ings and liftings of the crust of Earth,- That which creates, if without love and blind, If and without mind, At sight of thee my spirit sinks and fails. without thought ing like the dawn, Art thou alone the Maker? Is the blind Is yet a forehead brood Instinct with genius, inevitable and swift, Unconscious power that drew thee dumbly down ing dove, or songless swan, To cut this gash across the layered globe, And as the wander The sole creative cause of all I see? Or as the bee on summer winds adrift Are force and matter all? The rest a dream? Find home again, so That from which you came From "The Grand Canyon- Daybreak" Grand Canyon, by its own subconscious gift l, a fl ame. Henry Van Dyke Shaped what it dreamed: rocks, flesh, a sou From "The Grand Canyon" If force and matter be regarded as the sole cause of Grand Edgar Lee Masters Canyon, it may become a symbol for the bitter hopelessness Untroubled by all such involved philosophical consider­ to wh ich man can condemn himself. ations are those who accept the Canyon with instinctive faith. Then is thy gorge a canyon of despair, This faith may be almost pagan in its simplicity. A prison for the soul of man, a grave Back of all silences and our tears, Of all his dearest daring hopes! The world We see the slow shadow of You - Wherein we live and move is meaningless, Who work with the winds and earth-shocks; No spirit here to answer to our own! Of You, who work with raindrop patter. The stars without a guide : The chance-born Earth They are the fingers of your long weaving, Adrift in space, no Captain on the ship: And fleet feet of your long journeying. Nothing in all the universe to prove From "Grand Canyon Again" Eternal wisdom and eternal love! William Haskell Simpson And man, the latest accident of Time,- Who thinks he loves, and longs to understand, Or it may be a faith patterned after the Psalmist tradition: Who vainly suffers, and in vain is brave, God! let the radiant cliffs bear witness, God!

PAGE THIRTY • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • MARCH 1954 BY R U S S. E L L K .

· The muddy Colorado flows peacefully between the high walls of From Grand Canyon, Grand Wash Cliffs stretch to the northward. They Granite Gorge · in the isolated lower end of the Grand Canyon. mark westernmost edge of Canyon region, 3,000 feet above Lake Mead.

If anyone were to put out a story that a canyon a mile deep visited, and which would be world famous were it not for its for a considerable distance until it pauses dizzily on the brink (Pine) Mountains rise high above the canyon, their slopes and a hundred miles in length was lost somewhere in north­ proximity to its better known portion. Gray, himself, might of a spectacular, sheer-walled gorge plunging over 3,000 feet covered with fine forests of pinyon pine, juniper and ponder­ western Arizona, it would seem so fantastic that no one would well have been describing just such a situation when he wrote into the river far beneath. It is this view that makes one osa pine. On the other side a narrow ridge rises about 3,000 pay any particular attention to it. Yet such is almost literally the oft quoted "many a rose is born to blush unseen and waste instinctively search for something solid and stable to sit on feet, separating Whitmore from Parashont. As for the name true - there is such a canyon and most people have never its sweetness on the desert air." There is certainly little doubt while absorbing the spectacle unfolded below. In the National of Whitmore, turn back the pages of history a bit to a scene heard of its existence. Before reaching for your maps to brand that this scenic gem has thus far gone virtually unnoticed. Park, one views the canyon from far back on the rim; in the that took place at Pipe Springs, Arizona, in the winter of this an irresponsible fabrication, let me hasten to say that Why is it that we don't know about this canyon if it is so western end, the view is from the middle of the gorge, and 1865-66. It was here that Indians attacked and killed James this hundred mile long section of canyon is a part of the fine? Simply for the reason that we know about those places the rim is actually a considerable distance away. Whitmore and Robert McIntyre, the first settlers of the fabulous Grand Canyon - and, of course, everyone has seen that we hear lots about - and we just don't hear about the It is in the side canyons that another great difference is to spring. Whitmore's young son would have suffered the same the Grand Canyon - but not this part! To put it perhaps a western end of the Grand Canyon! Suppose, then, that we be seen. Bright Angel Canyon, and other great tributaries to fate, but the Indians failed to find where he was hiding. Rising bit more accurately. just about everyone has seen the extreme treat ourselves to a bird's-eye view of this "lost canyon" the eastward, are vast gashes in the earth that are viewed from high in the Uinkaret Range is Mount Trumbull - named by eastern end of this famous canyon from the rim in Grand country, and see why it should rate more than the mere men­ a considerable distance. The western end of Grand is a Major John Wesley Powell on his epic trip down the Colorado Canyon National Park, and goes away feeling that he has tion it receives today. network of "finger canyons," with little to warn of their River by boat back in 1869 for his friend Senator Lyman seen Arizona's greatest scenic attraction. In this belief, he is To begin with, don't ever suppose that it is just a reason­ presence until the rims are actually reached. Looking out Trumbull, of Connecticut, with Mount Emma (named for only partially correct, because the major portion of the canyon ably good imitation of its better known eastern section. across this vast expanse of red and white rocks, the region Powell's wife) one of the nearby high peaks. he never sees, and thus he isn't even aware that he missed it. Actually it has little in common insofar as general appear­ appears so easy of access, yet one feels the hopelessness of Some of the canyons have suggestive names - such as Standing on the rim of the vast gorge in the National Park, ances go. True, it is also a "mile deep and eight miles wide," attempting to find a way across its maze of broken and eroded Parashont, Surprise and Twin - all heading on the Shivwits he has no conception of what lies out of his sight to the and it has the Colorado River roaring along a narrow channel canyons. Plateau. Parashont is a Paiute word meaning "plenty of westward. lf you should ask him about what lies beyond in at the bottom, but it doesn't look the same. At Grand Canyon The names of these side canyons, and the stories these water," and it heads in the highland country where moisture the purplish distance, he is almost certain to have a vague National Park there is a breath-taking drop of about 3,500 names bring to mind, are picturesque and often historic. is more abundant. At Surprise, one passes by the mouth of notion that the canyon just ceases to exist after he can no feet from the canyon rim down a series of sharp cliffs and Picture, if you will, Whitmore, Parashont, Andrus, Green­ the canyon where it junctions with the Colorado before even longer see it. slopes to the broad Tonto Platform, and then a 1,500 foot spring, Twin, Burnt, Quartermaster, Spencer, Separation and being aware that a major side canyon is close. Twin is a Now, no one would be so foolish as to attempt to belittle drop from the edge of the Inner Gorge into the turbulent Surprise Canyons, and famous Diamond Creek. Take Whit­ beautiful forked canyon that has some of the most colorful the magnificent scenery at Grand Canyon National Park - Colorado River. The western end of the canyon just reverses more, for example. Heading on the Shivwits Plateau, it drops rocks of the region. but it is rivaled by that part of the canyon stretching on to the scenery. Here there is a drop of about 1,000 feet or so steadily into the earth until it becomes a spectacular sight in It is Quartermaster Canyon that deserves much more than the westward - a vast abyss that is little known, seldom from the rim onto a broad platform which then reaches out its own right. On one side the volcanic peaks of the Uinkaret passing mention. In a region apparently almost devoid of any

PAGE THIRTY-TWO ARIZONA HIGHWAYS MARCH 1954 Quartermaster Rim is easily reached by gravel road In the distance is Shivwits Plateau, part of the By jeep one can go from Peach Springs through Separation Canyon joins Colorado over the Hualpai Plateau, a choice place to see gorge. Arizana Strip. It stretches into the Canyon. this canyon to the scenic . Diamond Springs area. at Shivwits Plateau. Its name was given from the fact that three of Powell's party semblance of a road, the rim just above the junction of Quar­ that Mount Dellenbaugh should look down upon one of the then you will find several places where spectacular views of left the main group only to be killed by termaster and the Colorado River is readily accessible by car most famous of the many canyons in lower Grand. It was the canyon are to be had. However, there are really only Indians on the Plateau. over a good highway. Take a close look at a regional map, on that hazardous trip of 1869 commanded by Major Powell, about two roads, one on either side of the canyon, that can and you will notice that a first class Indian Service road leads that hopes of success gave way to a feeling of approaching be recommended for almost any kind of a car or driver. from Peach Springs through the Hualpai Reservation almost disaster among some of his men. Three of them, thinking that The most accessible of these two roads, and leading to one to the rim of Quartermaster, with the final three miles over the chances of coming through the ordeal alive were very of the really prize viewpoints, takes off of U. S. 66 one mile a pretty good dirt road. This is a scenic setting that more than slim, decided to leave the party when the expedition was west of Peach Springs. It is a gravel road, but a good one, pays for any troubles in getting to it. It is in this region that confronted by a vicious looking rapid at the mouth of a and was built by the Indian Service. For more than 40 miles Lake Mead has pushed back into lower Grand Canyon, and huge side canyon. Hoping the men would change their minds it winds its scenic way across the Hualpai Indian Reservation, the view of this body of water far beneath defies adequate after a night's rest, Powell waited until the following morning finally leaving the forested area as the rim of the canyon the vast sweep of the Canyon country. description. You simply have to see it for yourself to grasp before tackling the fast water. However, nothing could get the approaches. Here the region becomes grasslands for the most One other road that should be mentioned is a "jeep" or its dramatic appeal. men to change their minds, so on the morning of August 28, part - and here the wide roadway comes to an end. Just power wagon road. It leads directly into Peach Springs Directly across the Grand Canyon from the rim of Quarter­ 1869, the two Howland brothers and a man named Dunn, before it terminates, a narrow road branches off to the east­ Canyon from the town of Peach Springs. This is a scenic master is the Shivwits Plateau, a wilderness of pinyon pine left the party and made their way up the side canyon to the ward, passes a fenced in area, and heads out across the flats, route, but difficult to follow due to washouts, etc., toward the and juniper forests, broken here and there with grassy valleys Shivwits Plateau. Here their hopes of success were wiped out past an old stockman tank and into somewhat rolling country. lower end of the canyon, but a power wagon will enable you and stretches of ponderosa pine. Like a stubby thumb, a when they were attacked by Indians and killed. Ironically, Just don't decide at this point that the road is going to dis­ to get most of the way to where it junctions with Diamond branch of the Shivwits pushes out into the main canyon to had they stayed with the river party, all would have been appear and go nowhere - Quartermaster Canyon is just ahead Creek about one mile from the Colorado River. You may form the Sanup Plateau, reminding one somewhat of the saved, because the Powell expedition not only safely navi­ a short distance and with it one of the finest views in the have to hike some distance in Peach Springs Canyon to get Great Thumb country farther to the eastward. While modern gated the rapid that had appeared so dangerous, but actually Lower Grand Canyon. Lake Mead is almost directly beneath to Diamond Creek (I did!), but it is a rewarding trip. The man hasn't seemed to find this region as yet, ancient man did. reached the end of the Grand Canyon a few hours later. Since the point where you stop your car on the rim. hiking is easy and the scenic views are magnificent. Here and there are found considerable evidence to show that that time, the canyon used by the three men has been known The other road is much less accessible and goes to the rim Most of the other roads in the region that reach the canyon early day Indians lived along the canyon rim during the warm as Separation Canyon, and the rapids as Separation Rapids. of the Canyon at Twin Springs Poirtt on the Shivwits Plateau. rim or invade the depths of some of the side canyons require summer months, no doubt hunting mule deer, an animal that A bronze plaque, fastened on the rocky cliff at the mouth of This road may be reached from St. George, Utah, via Wolf either a "jeep" or power wagon, and local inquiry about the is still common on the plateau today. In some places, large the canyon, commemorates the event today, while the waters Hole, or from Grand Canyon National Monument via the condition of these as a means of access is strongly urged. quantities of worked stone points have been found where of Lake Mead back up and cover the boiling rapid when the little village of Mt. Trumbull. For most of the distance, the Even in a land so blessed with scenery and natural beauty these people left or lost them hundreds of years ago. lake is filled to normal elevation. ·road has been kept in pretty good shape by logging opera­ of all kinds, it still seems strange that Arizona should have Topping the plateau in this region is a rather low, extinct One would naturally suppose there would be a few fairly tions near Green Spring Canyon. However, at a point known thus far overlooked the great potential of lower Grand volcano bearing another familiar name - that of Dellenbaugh. good roads leading into country like this. If you are used to as Oak Grove, a narrow road leads southward through a Canyon. While it is almost touched at Peach Springs by U. S. It was Dellenbaugh who helped Major Powell make history taking off across the flats where the "road" almost loses itself pinyon pine-juniper forest for about 10 miles to Twin Springs 66, its superb beauty, its history, its vast wilderness areas - on his second trip through the Grand Canyon, and then in the brushlands, and where, in many cases, you have to Point. While the view from the point doesn't give one a all remain hidden from most people, comprising Arizona's wrote about it in such a descriptive manner. It is rather fitting look sharp to find anything that even resembles a cow path, glimpse of the Colorado River and Lake Mead, it does show unique "lost canyon."

PAGE THIRTY-FIVE • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • MARCH 1954 STILLNESS To see the stillness of a tree, ,, Knowing it has been torn with wind - To see the stillness of a pool, Knowing it has been swept by flood - To see the stillness of a stone, Knowing what fires gave it form ... YOURS SINCERELY This is to know that stress will end, This is to know that peace will come - For wind and flood and flame have passed To leave this quiet here at last. ROLAND ENGLISH HARTLEY

WEATHER SAMPLER March threads her needles with strands of blues and grays, Stitching flower motifs and blending together Icy storms, high winds and sun-warmed days, • NOT JUST CACTUS: tation of the subject. Believe me, I know. I am In a sampler of versicolored weather. a trailerite and I have now spent three winters .. . Well, what do you know! I thought Arizona GRACE McLEAN BROWN along the Colorado and I hope to spend many was nothing but sage, sand and cactus until I more. I have followed the trailer trails all the opened your February issue and learned, to my SUNSET way from Florida to California but I have never amazement, that you raise stocks, one of my A bard found such a delightful place to spend the winter. favorite flowers. Would dip his pen With the river nearby there is always something Alice LeMoir, Into the chalice of to do and, furthermore, you seem to find the Buffalo, New York The melting western sky and make nicest neighbors and the most accommodating A song. of trailer court operators. I predict that the com­ • Yep! We raise stock, strawberries, cotton, But I ing years will find all the country from Davis citrus, lettuce, dates and a thousand other things. Before the glow ... Dam to Yuma a trailer paradise. Miss LeMoir should browse around our state The spreading red and gold sometime. Will she be surprised! Samuel Southforth, Of days slow merging into night ... Dayton, Ohio Stand mute. • HOORAY FOR BILLY THE KID: GERTRUDE M. OLSON ... Was Billy the Kid just a frontier ruffian or a ... Three cheers for your article, "Trailers on RANCH VISITOR person who felt his actions were justified by the the River," in your January issue. I know hun­ place and times in which he lived? I have always dreds just like us: when the wintry winds begin I turned up at the stable been fascinated by history and stories of the to blow we head for the Colorado in our trailer, And chose my mount with care; West. No person, so it seems to me, represents set up camp and forget there ever was such a In new riding togs felt able the violence of the untamed frontier life as Billy thing as winter. To show quite a horsey fl.air. the Kid. I was interested to know, from your Mr. and Mrs. J. H . Firth. I may have fooled the tourists some, article in February ARIZONA HIGHWAYS. Portland, Oregon. , But that horse knew where I was from. that the Kid spent some time in Arizona. I always ANNABELLE STEWART ALTWATER thought he was a New Mexico product, exclu­ .. . If you are a trailer dweller and a fisherman sively. (I am both) I recommend your trailer story in THE SETTING SUN Mrs. Helena Mortimer your January issue. The Colorado is the answer. The setting sun beams, radiant, Chicago, Illinois My fourth winter on the river convinces me Then slowly fades away, • Billy the Kid has become a legend. No better nothing could be finer ( even in Caroliner because Just like a ruby tail light I have been there, too! ) . Of each departing day. presentation of his colorful life has ever been THELMA IRELAND made than by Edwin Corle in his fascinating Ogden Thomasson, "Billy the Kid," a book highly recommended to Memphis, Tennessee FOR A CRICKET anyone interested in the old West. If a cricket needs a reason • Trailer folks are coming to realize more and For his wrinkled, vibrant singing, • CONFESSIONS OF A TRAILERITE: more that the Colorado River country from I would reckon, not the season, .. . I must tell you how much I enjoyed the article Davis Dam south is a perfect hideaway from win­ Not a mating call sent winging in your January issue which was devoted to the ter. Future development of facilities will attract ,: Or that evolution grew it, trailerites living along the Colorado River. more and more visitors each winter. One thing But, because he likes to do .it! Charles and Gladys Niehuis gave a fine presen- for sure: there is plenty of room for everyone. GASTON BURRIDGE

BACK COVER OPPOSITE PAGE "SPRING - GRAND CANYON" BY JOSEF MUENCH. The "IN SUPAILAND" BY RAY MANLEY. The Havasupai In­ delicate Cliff Rose and the brilliant Prickly Pear Cactus blossoms dian Reservation occupies one of the most spectacular canyons that form the vast beauty _of Grand Canyon. This small tribe frame a canyon panorama of depth and profundity from the lives in a canyon solitude whose silence is broken by a series of soaring cliffs of distant South Rim to massive walls within the waterfalls formed by Cataract Creek. Children, here, learn to gorge from Point Sublime on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. swim before they walk.

PAGE THIRTY-SIX ARIZONA HIGHWAYS MARCH ]954