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GLOBAL VIEW PALAZZO INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS POWER SECTION II PUCCI OPENS A NEW CONCEPT STORE ON MADISON AVENUE IN NEW YORK. PAGE 6
THE RETAIL IMPACT Saks Cuts Outlook In Wake of Sandy
By DAVID MOIN
SAKS INC., amid a retail climate getting increasingly WWD precarious and discount driven, has lowered its sales forecast for the fourth quarter, citing the impact of Hurricane Sandy. WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2012 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 Saks did report gains in third-quarter sales and profi ts, but projected comparable-store sales will be fl at for the fourth quarter while gross margins could be fl at to down 50 basis points. Nor was Saks alone: The TJX Cos. Inc. also on Tuesday projected sales fl at to 1 percent up in November and fl at to 2 percent up in December and January for its Marmaxx Group, com- posed of TJ Maxx and Marshalls, though the off-pricer had a 7 percent comp-store gain in the third quarter. Other retailers, too, are responding to the storm and the macroeconomic forces by stepping up their dis- counting and accelerating Black Friday specials. Noting that many Saks stores were in the path of the storm’s epicenter, Stephen I. Sadove, chairman and chief executive offi cer, told WWD, “As much as 55 per- cent of our business was affected. New York alone is 20 Nat ura l percent. In the Northeast, we saw a substantial drop on the Internet,” because people did not have electricity. Off-5th, Saks’ outlet division, was also impacted, and there was “a high linkage” in business results be- tween stores in New York and those in Florida, which was not hit hard by the hurricane, though families Strokes there worried about relatives up north and therefore didn’t shop much, Sadove said. Brushstrokes, dying techniques and splatters Retail executives have already noticed a surge in of paint have designers at their most artful this price promoting since Sandy, though a few said busi- season. Here, H. Fredriksson’s Monet-inspired ness appeared to be softening even before Sandy hit on Oct. 29, because of consumer concerns about cupro top, worn with Mes Demoiselles’ cotton the U.S. government’s “fi scal cliff ” of tax hikes and crochet poncho, Level 99’s cotton chinos and spending cuts, the debt crisis, the nation’s political Sibilia jewelry. For more on the trend, see divide, and some dire predictions that the economy could revert back to recession. pages 4 and 5. There apparently has not been a post-presidential election lift in retailing. Craig Johnson, president of SEE PAGE 6 FASHION ASSISTANT: DEVIN HERSHEY ASSISTANT: FASHION Thanksgiving Backlash
By SHARON EDELSON
NEW YORK — Backlash or Big Biz? As more and more retailers unveil plans to open Thanksgiving Day, it’s being dubbed Black Thursday and has the potential to fi re up sales —and stir controversy. NPD chief industry analyst Marshal Cohen said that only 12 percent of consumers take advantage of Black Friday sales, and he estimates that half that number will shop on Black Thursday. “But it’s a very healthy consumer base,” he said. “The early bird gets the proverbial worm. Retailers are saying, ‘I want your wallet when your wallet’s full.’” Stores that opened earlier last year saw sales increase by 22 percent for the Black Friday weekend. “Last year, you had some stores that lost 8 percent if they didn’t ex- tend hours,” Cohen said. “They missed out.” Target on Monday became the latest retailer to say it will open on Thanksgiving — at 9 p.m. — remain- ing open through 10 p.m. or 11 p.m. on Black Friday. The retailer joins Wal-Mart, which is opening at 8 p.m. Thursday, two hours earlier than last year. Sears, which was closed on Thanksgiving 2011, will open from 8 p.m. Thursday to 10 p.m. Friday, while Kmart’s holiday schedule is 6 a.m. to 4 p.m. Thursday, to give people time to eat their meals, reopening at 8 p.m. until 3 a.m. on Black Friday. For the fi rst time, Lord & Taylor’s Fifth Avenue fl agship in New York will oper- ate on Thanksgiving, from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Gap Inc. brands will be open long hours on turkey day: Gap will operate from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Banana PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY MODEL: ANNELOT/IMG; HAIR BY SEIJI AT THE WALL GROUP; MAKEUP BY MISUZU MIYAKE FOR NARS COSMETICS; PHOTO ASSISTANT: SANG HEE MA; FOR NARS COSMETICS; PHOTO ASSISTANT: MISUZU MIYAKE GROUP; MAKEUP BY THE WALL SEIJI AT HAIR BY MODEL: ANNELOT/IMG; SEE PAGE 7 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2012 WWD.COM
CFDA Names Fashion Fund Winners THE BRIEFING BOX Christopher Bailey serving as and Alina Silberman; Jennifer By MARC KARIMZADEH the night’s keynote speaker. Fisher, and Wes Gordon. IN TODAY’S WWD Along with mentoring, Chait Past winners of the award are NEW YORK — Greg Chait of The is receiving $300,000 as part Joseph Altuzarra, Billy Reid, Elder Statesman took home the of the award, while the run- Sophie Theallet, Alexander top prize at this year’s CFDA/ ners-up are each taking home Wang, Rogan, Doo.Ri, Trovata Vogue Fashion Fund, while the $100,000 to develop their respec- and Proenza Schouler. runners-up were Jennifer Meyer tive businesses. This was the ninth edition of Maguire of Jennifer Meyer and This year’s other finalists the fund, which was created by Tabitha Simmons. were Suno’s Max Osterweis and the Council of Fashion Designers The winner and runners- Erin Beatty; A.L.C.’s Andrea of America and Vogue magazine up were revealed at a dinner Lieberman; Assembly New to help emerging talents with a gala at Center548 in Chelsea York’s Greg Armas; Giulietta’s combination of a cash prize and on Tuesday evening, with Sofia Sizzi; Illesteva’s Justin a mentorship program involving Burberry chief creative officer Salguero, Daniel Silberman industry leaders.
Kors Income Up as Sales Surge Street style at Kiev’s Fashion Days. $471 million, while PHOTO BY LIANA SATENSTEIN PHOTO BY By VICKI M. YOUNG European sales rose 97 percent to $57 mil- Saks Inc., amid a retail climate getting increasingly precarious NEW YORK — Michael Kors lion. Japan is still in and discount driven, has lowered its sales forecast for the Holdings Ltd. on Tuesday posted development, with fourth quarter citing the impact of Hurricane Sandy. PAGE 1 second-quarter gains on all fronts, sales rising 129 per- from gross margins to net income cent to $5 million in As more and more retailers unveil plans to open Thanksgiving to revenues posted for the period. the quarter. Idol said For the three months ended the firm’s travel re- Day, it’s being dubbed Black Thursday and has the potential to fire up sales — and stir controversy. PAGE 1 Sept. 29, net income attributable tail business is “de- to shareholders more than dou- veloping rapidly” as bled to $97.8 million, or 49 cents tours worldwide are Emilio Pucci unveiled its new retail concept at its new a diluted share, from $31.6 mil- bringing groups to Madison Avenue flagship on Tuesday. PAGE 6 lion, or 22 cents, a year ago. the stores when at Total revenues rose 74.4 per- the airport. Revenues at Tod’s SpA rose 7.3 percent to 749.9 million cent in the quarter to $532.9 million Second-quarter revenues jumped 74.4 percent. The company is euros, or $959.9 million, in the first nine months of the year, from $305.5 million, which include projecting the open- compared with the same period last year. PAGE 7 a 78.2 percent jump in net sales to By category, Idol said the watch ing of 40 to 50 stores in North $513.1 million from $287.9 million. business continues to be “very America during the current fiscal Nov. 11, the newly anointed Single’s Day in China, saw Retail net sales rose 82 percent to strong” for the company since it’s year. Idol said the firm remains on e-commerce sites across the country throw a Sale of the Year $242.3 million, while comparable- a significant part of the retail busi- track to open 10 to 15 stores annu- party for all the singles in front of their computers. PAGE 8 store sales gained 45.1 percent. ness in company-owned stores. ally in Europe. The planned store The results sent Kors’ shares The firm is also putting greater increase for fiscal 2013 for Japan Calvin Klein Collection brought models, bloggers and up 0.9 percent Tuesday to close emphasis on small leather goods. is 10 new locations. the Chinese fashion elite together in Beijing on Monday to at $51.01. In addition, totes seem to be a The ceo said 55 stores saw dis- celebrate the brand’s spring collection. PAGE 8 John D. Idol, chairman and huge category for “young girls,” ruptions from Hurricane Sandy, chief executive officer, told ana- with Idol noting that this consum- and while they have reopened, VF Corp. is feeling confident about its jeanswear business as lysts during a conference call, er is “not only buying a handbag he said many areas “remain chal- margins and profits return to more historical levels. PAGE 8 “Our performance was driven by from us but many times she’s buy- lenged” and it is difficult to pre- continued growth in comparable- ing a handbag and a tote.” dict when the consumer behavior store sales, strong performance As for retail sales growth, Idol would return to normal in those Peter Marino was decorated as a Chevalier de l’Ordre des
PAGE 9 of our new stores, successful con- said the business was driven in part affected areas. Arts et des Lettres on Monday. version to shop-in-shops and de- by 66 store openings since the sec- For the third quarter, the firm partment stores and the advanc- ond quarter of last year. Total rev- expects diluted earnings per share Time magazine assembled a luncheon panel of opinionated es in our international expansion enue growth was driven by a mix of at between 37 cents to 39 cents, folk on Tuesday to hash out prospective nominations for its strategy, as we continue to build accessories, footwear, watches, jew- with total revenues at between Person of the Year. PAGE 9 brand awareness.” elry and eyewear, all of which ac- $525 million to $535 million. For He told analysts that the com- counted for 79 percent of the firm’s fiscal 2013, diluted EPS range is Zaha Hadid and Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg pany’s gross margin for the quar- product assortment in the quarter. between $1.48 and $1.50 and total were among those honored at Glamour’s Women of the Year ter was 59 percent, driven pri- By region, North American revenues forecasted at $1.86 bil- awards at Carnegie Hall on Monday. PAGE 10 marily by lower markdowns. revenues rose 72 percent to lion to $1.96 billion. ON WWD.COM ·· They Are Wearing: A variety of looks came along at Kiev’s recently held Mercedes-Benz Fashion Days. For more Meyrowitz Touts TJX Growth Opportunities photos, see WWD.com/fashion-news. underrated by others,” she said. analysts to go over year-end results. By EVAN CLARK “Executed well, the off-price con- TJX’s third-quarter net in- cept can work in almost any coun- come increased 13.5 percent to CORRECTION CAROL MEYROWITZ sees plen- try where brands and value mat- $461.6 million, or 62 cents a dilut- The name of leather goods firm Mark Cross was misspelled in ty of growth ahead for The TJX ter. We believe that we’re the only ed share, from $406.5 million, or an item on page 5, Tuesday. Cos. Inc., which is already the off-price retailer with the interna- 53 cents, a year earlier. Earnings dominant off-pricer. tional experience to say that.” came in 1 cent ahead of the 61 Meyrowitz, who is chief execu- The company is also looking cents analysts projected and TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS tive officer, touted the retailer’s in- shares of the company gained 2.7 [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. ternational experience and hinted percent to $42.06 Tuesday. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. the company would get into e-com- Sales for the three months VOLUME 204, NO. 102. WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Executed well, the Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues merce in the near future. ended Oct. 27 advanced 10.7 per- in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance “We have huge opportuni- cent to $6.41 billion from $5.79 Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: off-price concept S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, ties to attract more U.S. and in- billion with a 7 percent rise in Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, ternational customers with our comparable-store sales. and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax can work in almost Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver values,” Meyrowitz said during TJX, which operates the T.J. Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North a conference call detailing solid Maxx and Marshalls chains in Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please any country where write to WWD, P.O. 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First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt to be up in the third quarter.” in earnings a year earlier, but of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New matter. York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request TJX has 2,355 stores in the U.S., below the 76 cents Wall Street for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at as well as 367 doors in Europe and had penciled in. www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. — CAROL MEYROWITZ, Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that another 324 in Canada. Comp sales are slated to we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at Meyrowitz noted the compa- THE TJX COS. INC. range from flat to up 2 percent P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ny could add up to another 508 for the quarter. TJX’s comps rose ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER stores in its current European at the opportunities in the e-com- 2 percent in the year-ago quarter UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR markets. “The opportunity for merce arena and expects to have and were up 12 percent in the DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A future growth of Europe is vastly an update when it ··reconvenes with fourth quarter of fiscal 2010. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. YEARINFASHION ALL OF THE STYLE, SCANDAL, CELEBRITY AND BUSINESS OF 2012. PLUS EDITORS REVEAL THE WWD NEWSMAKER OF THE YEAR.
ISSUE DATE: DEC. 10 CLOSE DATE: NOV. 26 For more infomation contact Pamela Firestone at 212.630.3935 or pamela_fi[email protected] 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2012
NATURAL STROKES Artists inspire designers on a frequent basis. For spring, their techniques are the real draw. WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2012 5 WWD.COM
Won Hundred’s Electric Feathers’ cotton and linen hand-painted silk jacket and Eairth’s dress and Loup’s silk bodysuit. silk pants. Grace Sibilia necklace; Hats top hat; Repetto shoes. Sibilia bracelets; Repetto shoes.
Boy by Band of Haus Alkire’s Outsiders’ silk dress and leather top and Current/Elliott’s cotton silk pants. Sibilia denim jeans. Esquivel cuffs and ring; hand-painted brogues. Clarks boots.
Rochambeau’s DEVIN HERSHEY ASSISTANT: FASHION linen blazer, Alice Roi’s silk top and Raquel Allegra’s linen shorts. Electric Feathers scarf; Kangol hat.
PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY MODEL: ANNELOT/IMG; HAIR BY SEIJI AT THE WALL GROUP; MAKEUP BY MISUZU MIYAKE FOR NARS COSMETICS; PHOTO ASSISTANT: SANG HEE MA; FOR NARS COSMETICS; PHOTO ASSISTANT: MISUZU MIYAKE GROUP; MAKEUP BY THE WALL SEIJI AT HAIR BY MODEL: ANNELOT/IMG;
6 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 14 , 2012
Pucci’s Palazzo Retail Navigates Hurricane Impact {Continued from page one} for those few weeks.” Saks was forced to close its consultancy Customer Growth Some retailers may have un- distribution center in Aberdeen, Partners, believes Sandy’s im- derestimated Sandy’s impact. Md., for a few days after the On Madison Ave. pact has been exaggerated and “I don’t think any of us had any storm. Some vendor distribu- used as an excuse for lackluster sense of it,” said·· the retail exec- tion centers were also forced to results. Historically, retailers do utive. “No one has experience close temporarily. “If customers tend to blame the weather for in dealing with this.” are not finding what they need, sales shortfalls, if it’s severe, “There’s probably no ques- it might push people to shop but Johnson did say that some tion there will be some inten- online,” Singer said. “I believe New York stores, such as Saks, sification of the promotional e-commerce is going to have a will be impacted short-term. calendar,” said Arnold Aronson, huge jump.” “Well-managed stores, based on managing director of retail strat- At Saks, sales trends were history, will make up the differ- egies at Kurt Salmon. “I don’t soft for the first two weeks of ence in the rest of Q4,” Johnson see across-the-board reductions. November in the aftermath of predicted, to a large extent on- This is not a recession thing. Hurricane Sandy, Sadove said. line or in stores over the next It was an act of God changing For the third quarter ended Oct. few weeks. 27, two days before the storm Still, discounting and pro- hit the Northeast, Saks posted moting have kicked in a few Sandy has been a net income of $22.6 million, or Inside the new store. weeks earlier than normal, 14 cents a diluted share, com- while some retailers are open- pared with net income of $17.8 PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY ing Thanksgiving Day in a bid little bit of a punch million, or 11 cents a share as the eccentricity of Emilio to grab whatever sales they can. for the year-ago period. Those By JESSICA IREDALE Pucci without resorting to “gim- A Saks First Triple Point event to the stomach. results included a reversal of micks.” His subtle ode to the running from Nov. 9 to 11 was about $3.3 million in federal THE PALAZZO PUCCI located house prints is the two-tone extended for a week, and in a income tax reserves deemed on Via de’ Pucci in Florence crushed marble Terrazzo floor, conference call Sadove acknowl- Everybody in the no longer necessary. Excluding has been in the family since its which references the Torre edged that there could be “a this item, the company would construction in the 15th cen- print from 1966. little bit more clearance selling Northeast has been have recorded net income of tury. At this point, it’s as inte- Pucci closed its two small- versus full price” in the fourth $19.3 million, or 12 cents a gral to the family heritage as er stores in New York, one on quarter, though that’s all reflect- affected. share, for the latest quarter. the colorful, geometric prints Madison, one on Fifth Avenue, ed in the wider range of guid- Total sales rose 3 percent to on which Emilio Pucci built his to open the new flagship. Pucci ance the company has supplied. $713.2 million, from $692.3 mil- — STEPHEN I. SADOVE, SAKS INC. fashion empire. When Peter president and ceo Alessandra Sports Authority has been lion a year-ago. Comparable- Dundas was hired running a Black Friday “pre- store sales increased 3.3 per- sale” event since Sunday, of- business temporarily. Most cus- cent, below expectations. The as creative director A window fering deals through Saturday tomers have not lost consider- best-performing categories of the now-LVMH- display. owned house in 2007, on more than 25 products that able parts of their net worth. were women’s and men’s con- he was so inspired by can be purchased in-store and Sandy will defer some business temporary apparel, women’s the Palazzo that he picked up over Black Friday from early November into late and men’s shoes, handbags, fine re-created his Milan weekend. Kohl’s unveiled an November and into December.” jewelry, and fragrances, while studio in its likeness “Operation: Black Friday” sale “People are going to be com- designer apparel continued and insists on holding offering more than 500 early- mitted to getting inventories in to be weak. Women’s apparel his runway shows at bird specials on kohls.com start- line by the end ··of the quarter,” continued to have a mixed per- the Palazzo Serbelloni ing Wednesday, Nov. 21. Kohl’s said another retail ceo. “The formance, with classic styles in Milan for its simi- said it was its earliest offer- storm hit one of the most densely showing weaker results than the lar atmosphere. It was ing of Black Friday deals ever. and richly populated parts of the more fashion-forward looks. only natural that when Shoppers can get $15 Kohl’s country and basically created a Sadove said the company, it came time to define Cash for every $50 spent in store paralysis for business, for the sup- post-Sandy, was taking a “more Pucci’s new retail con- or online during the event. ply chain to work, for people to get realistic view of the business…. cept, which was un- “Sandy’s impact was terrible around and lingering, unexpected We feel really good about where veiled Tuesday at its in the Northeast, and it’s still delays. People were just not think- we are going as a company. Sandy new Madison Avenue very tough,” said one senior ing about commerce or buying.” has been a little bit of a punch to flagship, it all came retail executive, who request- “Stores are open, but in some the stomach. Everybody in the back to the Palazzo. ed anonymity. “It’s acceler- cases distribution centers are Northeast has been affected. I “It’s kind of like ated promotions and discounts. not, so the flow of goods has think we will be back on track as completing the circle Black Friday has begun. Go on- been impacted, meaning in we go through the quarter.” of the settings for the line. You see it. There is going some cases stores are not get- “They’re not panicking at Pucci girl and how I to be lots more pressure on the ting fresh merchandise,” ob- all,” said Aronson. “There’s a want to expose the brand to Carra declined to gives sales fourth-quarter earnings and served Mortimer Singer, ceo of reasonable chance they will the public starting with the projections but said the flag- moving inventory that didn’t sell Marvin Traub Associates. make up this business.” Palazzo Pucci,” said Dundas, ship represents the importance while standing on a purple of the American market to the rug that carpets the back room brand. Three more stores are of the store at 855 Madison planned domestically for 2013. Ferragamo Profits Rise 8.1 Percent Avenue. To his left is a purple “We believe retail has to be velvet couch, which sits in taken to the next level,” said counting for 35.6 percent of total retail channel showed a 25.7 per- front of fitting rooms with mir- Carra. “I’m not saying we’re By LUISA ZARGANI sales. Retail growth in Mainland cent increase, to 286.6 million rored doors, key elements to going to move from 50 percent China increased more than 30 euros, or $366.8 million. the vision of French architect retail-50 percent wholesale, MILAN — Boosted by growth in percent, but Norsa conceded By category, footwear sales Joseph Dirand, whose other but we believe there are major all geographic markets and gains “China has been inconsistent gained 20.6 percent and hand- retail clients have included opportunities to have Emilio in the footwear and leather goods in recent weeks,” with a “rela- bags and leather accessories Rick Owens’ London store, Pucci stores here.” The new categories, Salvatore Ferragamo tively slow” third quarter, which were up 19.6 percent, account- Alexander Wang’s in Beijing concept is set to be replicated SpA registered an 8.1 percent in- showed a 6.1 percent gain. ing together for about 75 per- and Balmain’s in Paris. He is along all international stores, crease in net profits to 84.7 million Japan was up 9.2 percent and cent of sales. Fragrances grew known for his way with mar- which will include Shanghai, euros, or $108.4 million, in the first revenues in Central and South 23.6 percent, boosted by the suc- ble, of which there is plenty Moscow, Doha and Kuwait. nine months of the year. This in- America climbed 29.4 percent. cessful launch of the new wom- in Pucci’s new space, from From the perspective of cludes a minority interest profit of Norsa said Latin America and en’s fragrance Signorina. the console tables to the win- a member of the Pucci clan, 15 million euros, or $19.2 million. Australia are becoming “more Operating costs grew 18.8 dows. It adds a rich, minimal- Laudomia Pucci, vice president In the period ended Sept. 30, and more important” markets, percent, including a 40.3 per- ist counterpoint to some of and image director, the design revenues climbed 18.7 percent to where local consumption is grow- cent increase in communication the store’s more Baroque ele- is the perfect balance of lux- 832.6 million euros, or $1.06 bil- ing, as well as tourist flows. expenses such as sponsorship ments, such as brass-trimmed ury and legacy. “If we go back lion, compared with 701.3 million Sales in Europe grew 22.6 of the exhibition “Saint Anne – moldings, without being cold. to when we started working euros, or $981.8 million, in the percent, “far beyond expecta- Leonardo Da Vinci’s Ultimate The marble is veined in sun- with LVMH in 2000, one of the same period last year. tions,” said Norsa. The U.S. was Masterpiece” and the resort col- set-hued pinks and purples. fabulous strategic operations Dollar amounts have been con- up 16.8 percent and the execu- lection fashion show at the Louvre Dirand traveled to — where we had in mind was to cre- verted at average exchange rates tive described the mood there Museum in Paris. else? — the Palazzo Pucci when ate a strong retail network for for the periods to which they refer. as “positive.” He said the com- Capital expenditures rose 55.7 he was given the job. He want- Pucci. We very quickly opened “Consumer behavior has been pany still did not have data re- percent to 36.5 million euros, or ed the 2,600-square-foot store to stores,” she said. “It’s been a changing in recent weeks, but the garding the impact of Hurricane $46.7 million, mainly driven by “bring the kind of decor of the very successful operation. But luxury industry is very resilient,” Sandy, which forced stores to stores openings, the enlargement Palazzo to a place that doesn’t we did it very fast and we didn’t said chief executive officer Michele close for two or three days, but and refurbishment of existing have the same scale,” he said. move on. This is our big second Norsa in a conference call with an- “did not damage the units, infra- ones, in addition to logistics en- “We didn’t want it to look like step. Before we had cut with alysts. “We are well-positioned to structure or logistics.” hancements and digital projects. a pastiche.” Dirand captured the past in terms of the concept capture consumer trends.” Retail sales in the nine Ten new locations, of which five the house’s glamour, which and now we’re going back to The Asia-Pacific area was months grew 15.3 percent to 532.5 will be in China and units in has been developed consider- the roots. Now we’re showing the group’s top market, show- million euros, or $681.6 million, Atlanta and Las Vegas airports, ably under Dundas’ eye, as well what the Pucci home is like.” ing 19.5 percent growth and ac- while the wholesale and travel are coming up next. WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2012 7 WWD.COM Thanksgiving Shopping a Multisided Issue {Continued from page one} will evolve at the customers’ pace. Customers don’t Republic, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Old Navy, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. want to give up their holiday time. Kmart is open on “Every brand is determined to compete,” a Gap Inc. Christmas, while Sears reopens the day after Christmas. spokeswoman said. “We deliver a value proposition and There’s not so much of a rush to creep into Christmas.” shopping experience. We’re very optimistic.” “Last year, Target tested limited Thanksgiving Day hours Also opening on Thursday is Toys ‘R’ Us, but Macy’s, at a small group of stores in the Denver market,” a spokes- Kohl’s and Best Buy will wait until midnight on Black woman said. “The test provided some key insights. Our goal Friday. While J.C. Penney has campaigned against com- was to ensure that Target exceeds our guests’ expectations plicated, ultralow pricing, the retailer tweeted that it and meets business goals. The holiday season is highly com- will open at 6 a.m. on Black Friday with low prices on petitive, and Black Friday is one of the busiest shopping gifts for everyone — no coupons or rebates required. days of the year. Target’s opening time was carefully evalu- Retailers operating on Thanksgiving face the back- ated. Opening at 9 p.m. gives Target’s Black Friday guests lash of traditionalists who believe the holiday should added convenience and a way to create an after-dinner belong to families, feasts and football. Employees of shopping event that the entire family can enjoy.” Target Corp. and Wal-Mart Stores Inc. have been vocally “Customers have grown accustomed to shopping at opposed to working on Thanksgiving. their convenience,” said a spokesman for Lord & Taylor. “This Thanksgiving, while millions of families plan to “It’s increasingly an omnichannel world. It’s online, in- spend quality time with their loved ones, many Wal-Mart Target will open at 9 p.m. on Thanksgiving. store, multitouch points. If there wasn’t an appetite for workers have been told we will be stocking shelves and this, it wouldn’t be happening.” preparing for doors to open at 8 p.m. on Thanksgiving Lord & Taylor is advertising Thanksgiving specials night,” Mary Pitt Taft, a Wal-Mart worker in Wisconsin, on the day of the holiday through social media. “The op- wrote in a letter that was circulated online. portunity we see is a lot of tourists will be in the city Dozens of petitions were started by Making Change and out for the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade. It’s not at Wal-Mart, a campaign sponsored by the United Food that we’re trying to get people away from their dinners.” Cohen said there are a lot of impulse purchases that and Commercial Workers union, which covers retail ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY workers, and others were created on Change.org asking can be made in stores, but may be missed when shop- retailers to “save Thanksgiving.” ping online. “Retailers want to get you in the store,” he “Some [petitions] were started by family members said. “You see the extra deals, the impulse items jump who fear their loved ones — the employees — won’t out at you. They want to compete against other brick-and- make it home for Thanksgiving,” said Janna Pea, an of- mortar and online retailers. Opening stores on Thursday ficial at the UFCW. is only going to front-load the business. Consumers still Pea said there’s no official connection between “our have the same income. They may buy a little more for users [the employees who use the resources of the UFCW] themselves. Last year’s growth came from self-gifting. A and the UFCW.” Neither Wal-Mart nor Target employees big chunk of change was spent on self-gifting.” are unionized, however, and thus are not represented by Carol Spieckerman, president of Newmarketbuilders, the UFCW. Pea said that Wal-Mart workers are planning a retail consulting firm in Bentonville, Ark., said, “There a press call Thursday to make some announcements. “A are people who enjoy shopping with the family as an lot of workers in October walked off the job,” she said. “It activity on Thanksgiving. The fact is that online retail started in California and spread across the country.” The The Gap, Banana Republic and Old Navy will be open Thanksgiving. is 24/7 every day of the year. If a brick-and-mortar store employees who staged the walkouts prior to Wal-Mart’s an- goes dark and online is clicking away, there’s a break nouncement that it would be open on Thanksgiving were ing the birth of a new tradition like Cyber Monday or in the omnichannel loop. In highly competitive e-com- protesting working conditions and wages. doorbuster deals. We saw retailers open on Christmas merce categories, brick-and-mortar stores have some- “I’m not saying they will definitely be striking on Day two years ago and it didn’t really work, so they thing to gain by putting their deals out there sooner. Thanksgiving and Black Friday. The workers are getting didn’t do it again.” Omnichannel and competing against Amazon are big more and more frustrated,” said Pea. Launching holiday sales earlier is aimed at capitalizing reasons to open on Thanksgiving.” Last November, more than 200,000 people joined on consumers eager to jump-start their seasonal spending. Amazon.com launched its Black Friday deals store Target employee Anthony Hardwick’s Change.org petition Most importantly, retailers say, it offers consumers more on Nov. 1, underscoring the need for retailers to start calling on the retailer to save Thanksgiving by opening at choices of when and how to shop. “Overwhelmingly, the attracting shoppers early. 5 a.m. on Black Friday instead. Target in 2011 opened at customer appreciates having the option either way,” said Black Friday deals are being released earlier midnight on Black Friday. “We appreciate the flexibility Tom Aielo, senior vice president of Sears Holdings Corp. and earlier. of our team throughout the holiday season and will work “As consumers are plotting and planning out how to attack “Three years ago, Wal-Mart was threatening to sue peo- to develop staffing schedules that meet their needs as well Black Friday shopping, this is another option. Of course, ple who hacked into its system and released Black Friday as the needs of our guests and our business,” a Target factors like competition and operations come to bear” in deals,” said Candace Corlett, president of WSL Strategic spokeswoman said. the decision to open on Thanksgiving. Retail. “They couldn’t prevent the leaking of the deals, so “There are plenty of people in this retail environ- Black Friday deals have been finding their way to the they now release them themselves. The question is, are ment that are interested in working extra hours for Internet earlier and earlier each year. Sears plans to the pre-Thanksgiving sales and Thanksgiving Day deals di- extra pay,” said NPD’s Cohen. “This is not a religious offer Black Friday deals on Nov. 18 to members of its luting Black Friday? I don’t think so. Black Friday is a cul- holiday. Nobody is telling consumers they have to shop. Shop Your Way Club. “It gets back to that convenience tural movement and a tradition for one-third of the popu- It’s the sport of shopping. Not everybody wants to watch factor,” Aielo said. “We have more shoppers than ever lation. We’re a shopping nation. Enough sitting around the NFL all day. Criticizing stores is like criticizing the who will shop on their smartphones. Others will buy on- with the family on Thanksgiving Day, let’s celebrate our movies. The movies are the only thing to do. We’re see- line on Thanksgiving and pick up in store. Everything blessings by shopping.”
nancial officer Emilio Macellari Fay, mainly still a domestic Italian wholesale distribution, said this is a “small, start-up busi- business, posted a 17.3 percent said the firm. In Italy, the com- Sales, Profits Increase at Tod’s ness that is devoting a good quan- drop to 61.4 million euros, or pany closed 130 out of 800 doors, Italy, we deemed wise and pru- tity of investments on our behalf to $78.6 million. Macellari said said Macellari. “The reduction By LUISA ZARGANI dent to adopt a very cautious launch our brands. We will be the that the company has no inten- of orders from the reduction of approach in this market and to first in their portfolio, but not the tion to “move pricing and posi- wholesale is expected to be re- MILAN — Led by the Tod’s and be even more selective with the only ones. We have saved money tioning” of Hogan and Fay be- covered in the fourth quarter. Roger Vivier brands, and lifted wholesale distribution,” said with other potential players, we cause Tod’s and Roger Vivier Part of the goods can be sold in by gains in the U.S. and Asia chairman and chief executive of- have more favorable conditions “are covering the difficulties.” our own stores, which are show- revenues at Tod’s SpA rose 7.3 ficer Diego Della Valle. “We are compared with Yoox.com or Net- Roger Vivier more than doubled ing a very good acceleration of percent to 749.9 million euros, receiving excellent results from a-porter.com, for example, and we sales, to 50.2 million euros, or business,” he said. or $959.9 million, in the first our direct distribution network, think this is the right solution.” $64.2 million, from 23.5 million Europe was up 8.3 percent, nine months of the year — de- which registered a further ac- euros, or $32.9 million, in the mainly driven by double-digit spite a drop in domestic sales celeration of the organic growth same period last year. growth in the U.K. and France; also derived by a rationalization with the start of the fall-winter Macellari offered a “prelimi- the U.S. was up 33 percent to of its wholesale channel. season. Therefore, I’m confident nary indication” that “2013 can 58.3 million euros, or $74.6 mil- In the period ended Sept. 30, that our group will post a signifi- $959.9M be a year similar to 2012 with lion, and Asia and rest of the earnings before interest, taxes, cant growth also this year.” the top line growing mid- to world rose 54.7 percent growth depreciation and amortization Also on Tuesday, the Tod’s NINE-MONTH REVENUE AT TOD’S. high-single digits, and profitabil- to 215.5 million euros, or $275.8 at the group, which also com- board approved the develop- ity stable or slightly increasing.” million, accounting for 29 per- prises the Hogan and Fay labels, ment of an e-store to be managed By category, footwear rose 9.8 cent of sales. This was led by grew 3.7 percent to 199.5 million by a new global Internet retail- percent to 555.2 million euros, Greater China, which represents euros, or $255.3 million, with a ing company, Italiantouch Srl, During the nine-month peri- or $710.6 million; leather goods about 18 percent of total sales. 26.6 percent margin on sales. focused on the sale of leading od, sales of the Tod’s brand rose and accessories were up 14 The board approved the ex- Operating profit gained 3.2 luxury brands and exclusive art 16.9 percent to 435 million euros, percent to 123.9 million euros, tension of the eyewear license percent to 169.7 million euros, works, interior design, cosmet- or $556.8 million. Hogan and or $158.6 million, and apparel with Marcolin SpA until Dec. or $217.2 million. ics, jewelry, gourmet foods, ho- Fay continued to be affected by showed a 17 percent drop to 70.1 31, 2018, an agreement which Dollar amounts have been con- tels and travels. Italiantouch is the group’s strategy to rational- million euros, or $89.7 million, was meant to expire at the end verted at average exchange rates controlled by Della Valle’s Diego ize the number of its wholesale reflecting the performance of of December 2014. The license for the periods to which they refer. Della Valle & C. Srl vehicle. The clients. Hogan showed an 11.4 the Fay brand. for Hogan will be replaced by “Given the solid growth rate virtual store will initially oper- percent drop in sales to 202.5 Italy posted a 13.9 percent a deal whereby Marcolin will of [the] Tod’s brand and of our ate in Italy and Europe and then million euros, or $259.2 million, drop in sales to 319.9 million guarantee the supply of eyewear retail network, and the still be progressively expanded. although the company said the euros, or $409.5 million, stem- to be exclusively distributed in tough economic situation in In a conference call, chief fi- brand is growing in Asia. ming from a rationalization of stores selling Hogan products. 8 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2012 FOR MORE ON SINGLE’S DAY, SEE ChinaFile WWD.com/ fashion-news.com Calvin Klein on Show in Beijing “It’s inspiring me to get creative China’s E-commerce Boom By KATHLEEN E. MCLAUGHLIN with my Christmas decorations when NOV. 11 IS the newly anointed Single’s Day away province in Western China, who I go home,” fashion blogger Hanneli in China. This is because November in buys regularly from Mr. Porter as well as BEIJING — Calvin Klein Collection Mustaparta said of the sculpture — liq- Chinese is “the eleventh month” and numer- My Habit. He is rich and does not mind brought models, bloggers and the uid bits of silver that dashed around the ically Nov. 11 is written as 11.11 — all signs. paying for the high costs of shipping and Chinese fashion elite together in Beijing room in different display cases. To celebrate 11.11, e-commerce sites customs clearance. on Monday for a low-key evening to cele- Francisco Costa, women’s creative across the country decided to throw a Another popular way to shop online brate the brand’s spring collection in the director for the label, was in town for Sale of the Year party for all the lonely is surrogate shoppers. There are special world’s fastest-growing luxury market. the event and also to check out the singles at home in front of the computer sites offering to buy specific items for About 100 people were invited to the company’s new men’s prototype store screen: Everything, or almost everything, Chinese who live in China. This could be Long March Gallery, a contemporary art in Shenyang — a second-tier market is at half price. The scores are back today. anything, from Japanese rice to a gigantic space in the capital’s converted factory in China’s northeast. Costa said he was In 24 hours, Jack Ma’s taobao. jar of La Mer. These goods are district-turned-art-zone, 798. There, impressed with both the indigenous de- com and tianmao.com alone did ChinaFile bought in the States and hand- Chinese artist Zhan Wang’s new sculp- sign he saw and excited about the coun- a whopping 19.1 billion yuan of carried into China for a fee. ture, an intriguing piece called “Form try’s ongoing emergent fashion culture. business (about $3 billion). OK, About three months ago, an air- of the Formless,” was the centerpiece at “China is an extremely important the amount of traffic did crash line stewardess was sentenced a predinner cocktail event. market for us, not only in terms of con- his servers despite serious prep- to 15 years of imprisonment for sumers,” said Costa. aration, but still, 19 billion in a smuggling goods into China as “What’s happening in Beijing is re- day is not a bad score at all. a surrogate shopper. Despite Kimbra performed ally incredible,” he added, referring to So Nov. 11 was really a deb- the heavy-handed penalty, most at the event. the city’s transformation in architec- utante party for e-commerce BY HUANG HUNG surrogate shoppers simply mail ture, style and culture in recent years. in China. Finally, retailers the goods directly to their buyer By next year, Calvin Klein expects are ready to recognize the next wave of in China. It seems not all packages are China to unseat South Korea as its consumer spending in China is online. taxed. Another way to evade tax is to mail number-one market for underwear and Although Italian and French dominate the orders to an address outside of China. jeans. The brand dressed models and high-end retail shops right now in China, There are now online shopping services other stars on hand including Zhang online high-end retail will most likely be that offer addresses in the U.S. and U.K. Zilin, Zhu Zhu, Du Juan, Shu Pei and dominated by American and British opera- for Mainland buyers. This is a holding the New Zealand-born singer Kimbra. tions. For one thing, online consumers in bay of sorts for the goods, which will be Twenty-two-year-old Kimbra, who China can already shop on Web sites oper- hand-carried or repackaged for China to rose to fame as a featured artist on ated by major U.S. retailers such as Saks avoid tax issues. Goyte’s multiplatinum selling song, Fifth Avenue, Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. There are Chinese Web sites that “Somebody That I Used to Know,” ser- The Chinese Web site of Neiman Marcus serve as a directory for Chinese who enaded the crowd with five songs be- is expected to be launched early next want to shop internationally online. fore dessert. The meal was designed by year. In addition, e-commerce sites such These Web sites make recommendations famed New York chef Daniel Boulud, as Net-a-porter.com and Yoox.com have in Chinese and provide links to interna- who runs a restaurant in Beijing. either already launched in China or plan tional e-commerce sites. “I love it,” said Kimbra, who got to do so soon. Affluent young consumers In summary, it’s time to do another con- Wang Xiao, to spend a day walking around in the in China are usually fluent in English and sumer insight study in Mainland China. Francisco Chinese capital on this, her first visit. “I many have already developed habits to You might be surprised to find that in the Costa and really like it. I always like to see the un- buy online from international Web sites. future, consumers will buy everything, Du Juan. derground of the city and I was getting I was told about a kid in Xinjiang, a far- from jewelry to potato chips, online. most inspired here by the street fashion.”
DENIM VF Sees Strength in Jeanswear Biz $335.6 million, while sales were up 1.7 By ARNOLD J. KARR percent to $2.05 billion. “We spent a lot of time last year talk- VF CORP. LIKES what it’s seeing in its ing about the impact of cotton on our jeanswear business. margins,” Shearer recalled, “and I’m “Our jeanswear business today is happy to say that these businesses are in really good shape,” Robert Shearer, absolutely back on track.” senior vice president and chief finan- Specifically, operating margin — op- cial officer of Greensboro, N.C.-based erating profit as a percentage of rev- VF, told participants at the Morgan enues — has rebounded strongly as cot- Stanley Global Consumer and Retail ton prices have returned to less inflated Conference in New York Tuesday. levels. Jeanswear’s operating margin He noted that while the company’s reached 18.3 percent in the third quar- two $1 billion-plus denim-based brands, ter, higher than either the figure for the Lee and Wrangler, might lack the excite- nine months (16.3 percent), all of 2011 ment of “the next fabrication for The (15.1 percent) or even 2010 (17 percent). North Face that takes climbers to the “The year is playing out really pretty top of Mount Everest,” they continue much as we had planned, if not even a to generate “very, very healthy margins little bit better in terms of profitabil- and a lot of cash for us.” ity within our jeanswear business,” VF’s jeanswear coalition, home to Shearer said. “The jeans margins are the two brands, “has been as successful returning to more normalized lev- in our innovation platform as any of our els and you absolutely see that in this businesses,” he said, even if those inno- fourth quarter when our operating mar- vations have been more focused on com- gin will be in the high teens.” fort and fit than fabrics and construction Shearer commented briefly on Rock details engineered for the Himalayas. & Republic, the jeans brand acquired in The focus on innovation within early 2011 for $57 million in cash out of jeanswear has helped the coalition pick bankruptcy. “It’s a brand that’s done re- up $100 million to $150 million “of rev- ally well for us and our wholesale part- enues that we wouldn’t have otherwise ner Kohl’s,” he said, without divulging had,” Shearer said. financial details. VF also has benefited from its deci- Turning to Timberland, acquired last sion to position Wrangler’s western busi- year, Shearer said the brand, part of the ness as a separate unit which, according company’s dominant Outdoor & Action to the cfo, “has delivered 10 consecutive Sports coalition, is on target to generate quarters of strong revenue growth.” full-year revenues of $1.7 billion and The jeanswear unit remains chal- operating margin of between 10 and 11 lenged by weakness in Europe, which, percent while adding $1.10 to earnings despite strength in other parts of the per share. He added that VF expects world, was substantial enough to push to exceed the target for $35 million in its third-quarter revenues down 1.2 cost reductions. Timberland apparel is percent, to $718.8 million, despite a 1 scheduled to be launched in fall 2013. percent increase at constant currency. Full-price retail stores and annual Third-quarter operating profit at the di- growth of 30 percent a year in China are vision moved up 19.8 percent to $131.4 also on VF’s agenda for the brand. million, and profit for the first nine Last year, VF generated net income of months of the year was up 2.6 percent to $888.1 million on revenues of $9.46 billion. POPPING UP IN NOLITA: Dannijo is set to open a pop- up store on Prince Street in New York on Thursday. WWD STYLE PAGE 11 Heavy Medal
PARIS — Peter Marino was decorated as a Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres on Monday. Marisa Berenson was among the crowd on hand for the ceremony, where the architect’s leather gear made the official pinning more entertaining than usual. For more, see Fashion Scoops on page 11.
PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE
panelist Padma Lakshmi. “Here while Mayor Michael Nutter of debate with his staff and to celebrate the issue out MEMO PAD in California, in Calabasas, you Philadelphia highlighted the influential outsiders. “It’s not on stands the same day. have Christian fundamentalists importance of women around scientific, it’s subjective. We Cunningham, Gregory Arlt, Lauren OBAMA, YOUSAFZAI OR ONE and Kardashians living side by the world in changing the generally reach a consensus,” Conrad and Enzo Angiolini are DIRECTION?: As the year draws side and that’s totally normal. political landscape — such as he explained. — DAVID LIPKE expected to attend. to a close, magazines and news But in Pakistan, especially in Sandra Fluke, Aung San Suu Kyi — RACHEL BROWN organizations are trotting out the Northwest region, [women] and the female crusaders who LOOKING FOR THOSE AD DOLLARS: their annual capstones, such cannot drive. You cannot read. helped foment the Arab Spring. The media spotlight on red- KABAT TO ADVANSTAR: Randy as GQ’s Men of the Year, You cannot play music. You Actor Bryan Cranston of carpet beauty is getting Kabat, senior vice president of Glamour’s Women of the cannot paint.” “Breaking Bad” and “Argo” brighter. If E Entertainment brand partner marketing at Rue Year and CNN’s Heroes of Even Newt Gingrich agreed gave shout-outs to the Television’s manicure camera La La, has joined Advanstar the Year. The most important with Lakshmi — “I hope that demographically diverse trio wasn’t enough evidence, now Fashion Group as vice franchise of this ilk is Time doesn’t scare you out of it of Jeremy Lin, Usain Bolt and Adele The Hollywood Reporter is president of marketing, a new magazine’s Person of the Year, and make you reconsider,” — but drew a groan from Lauer out with a cover story titled, post. She will oversee creative at least according to the title’s he quipped to the “Top Chef ” when he mentioned “Hollywood’s Top 25 Beauty services, digital strategies managing editor, Rick Stengel. host. The failed presidential One Direction as the new Moments of 2012.” The story and communications for the On Tuesday, Time assembled a candidate also advanced Beatles (even though the pop examines the beauty looks that Fashion Group, which includes luncheon panel of opinionated German chancellor Angela group played on the “Today” have had the biggest impacts so Magic, Project, FN Platform, folk to hash out prospective Merkel for almost single- show Tuesday morning and far this year on the red carpet, WWDMagic, Sourcing at Magic, nominations for the 85-year- handedly keeping the euro attracted a record crowd). and in television shows and Magic/Mens and Pool. Kabat, old distinction. afloat, as well as the symbolic Mayor Julian Castro of San movies. To go with the story, who reports to Tom Florio, chief While newly reelected candidate of “the American Antonio, who was in the there will be two covers: one executive officer of Advanstar, President Obama is the obvious Voter,” for confounding audience, praised another with Sarah Jessica Parker and her will develop and oversee new candidate for the accolade, prognosticators this year. unlikely candidate in Felix makeup artist, Leslie Lopez, for business initiatives. the emotional choice in the NBC’s Matt Lauer downplayed Baumgartner, the supersonic the East Coast and a second In addition, Tommy Fazio, room was Malala Yousafzai, the Obama’s election victory, skydiver who plummeted to with Drew Barrymore and her hair president of Project and Pakistani girl who in October attributing much of it to crucial earth from 24 miles up in colorist, Tracey Cunningham, for Menswear, has tapped Kenny Mac was shot in the head by Taliban changes in demographics space last month. the West Coast. as show director of S.L.A.T.E. and gunmen for speaking out in and dissatisfaction with Mitt Stengel will have the final The publication is also Street, a new post. He had been support of girls’ education. Romney as an alternative. Lauer word on who ends up on the putting on a luncheon founder and creative director of “You have this 15-year-old girl proposed the unemployed Person of the Year cover and sponsored by MAC, St. Tropez Creative Contraband, a lifestyle right in the heart of darkness American worker as the year’s he’ll reveal it on the “Today” and Ojon today at the Chateau and brand development firm. as a beacon of light,” said most-talked-about figure, show on Dec. 19, after much Marmont in West Hollywood — LISA LOCKWOOD 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2012
FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Jenny Shimizu and Michelle Harper WWD.com/eye. PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY
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Dan Colen and Yvonne Force Villareal
Chelsea Handler and Chelsea Clinton FALK EVAN PHOTOS BY
Lena Dunham Olympia On a Tear Scarry ARIANNA HUFFINGTON was Among the other guests at hobbling all over the Monkey the restaurant were honoree Bar Monday night, propped on Supreme Court Justice Ruth a shiny black cane, when she Bader Ginsburg and Mary J. Blige spotted Tyra Banks in one of the — unfortunately not seated booths and limped to her table. together — as well as Chelsea The two hadn’t seen each other Handler, Ethan Hawke and honoree in years — Huffington once Annie Leibovitz. appeared on Banks’ talk show, Huffington, who was in an episode titled “Becoming seated next to honoree Zaha Fearless” — and Huffington Hadid at the Monkey Bar, was wanted to reconnect. They familiar with the event’s are two of the most plugged-in tearjerker tendencies. She Harley Viera Newton in women around, present in just was honored last year. Miu Miu with Chrissie about every media channel, but, “I love the way they combine Miller in Betsey Johnson. somehow, they didn’t have each the moving and edifying with Arizona Muse in Bill Blass other’s numbers. the entertainment, like having with Elizabeth Gilpin in Banks handed her phone to Cory Booker, having Lena Dunham, 3.1 Phillip Lim. Huffington’s daughter Christina, having the Nora Ephron speech. Prescription Strength and barked, “Will you put your They really captured the year,” momma’s stuff in there for me?” she said, itemizing some of THE SILENT AUCTION AT her date for the evening. scenesters — Jen Brill; Hannah They were in the restaurant the highlights of the evening. Monday night’s RxArt annual Indeed, after a few cock- Bronfman; Michelle Harper, who for the dinner following Cynthia Nixon and Meryl Streep’s fund-raising soiree started out tails, the crowd’s reticence was eyeing a Scott Campbell work Glamour’s Women of the daughters, Grace and Mamie much like a game of chicken, with subsided and the giving spirit (“Fingers crossed”); Olympia Year awards at Carnegie Gummer, both read passages from nearly all of the pieces — from was in full swing at the Milk Scarry; Leigh Lezark; Cory Kennedy Hall, the magazine’s annual Ephron’s 1996 commencement the likes of KAWS, Cass Bird, Max Studios-held fete. “The Rita — as well as a coterie of art- circle cry, now going 22 years speech at Wellesley. Snow, the night’s honoree Dan Ackermann piece, that’s the one world fixtures — Bill Powers, strong. Immaculately staged, Banks’ award came earlier, Colen and other cool kids of the art I want,” said Chrissie Miller, who Johan Lindeberg and Will Cotton, the two-hour ceremony had in 2008. world — remaining bid-free for was holed up in one of the who lingered by a Jonas Wood better production values Said Banks, “I remember the first couple hours of the night. gallery’s corners with a messy- silk-screen monoprint than some rickety televised Hillary Clinton and Condoleezza Rice “I love this,” Elizabeth Gilpin, in haired, red-lipped Harley Viera For Yvonne Force Villareal, an awards shows. In a moving were both honored the year I a leather pair of overalls from Newton. “I probably won’t get it, impulsive, speedy purchase was speech, filmmaker Sharmeen was honored, and both of them 3.1 Phillip Lim, said, gravitat- though. I’m not an aggressive the way to go. “I actually have to Obaid-Chinoy pleaded the crowd said my name in their speeches, ing toward “Girl With Rainbow bidder at all,” she continued. “I get myself to a gala after this, so to take note of oppressed and I was like, ‘What?’” Asked Hair,” a Terry Richardson print find, like, the cheapest thing in I’m going to do a quick spin. I’m women in Pakistan. Activist what her favorite moment of a topless woman, her mul- the room and just bid on that.” going to find something and put Erin Merryn gave a heartfelt was in a night full of touching tichromatic locks cascading The fete — sponsored by my bid on it,” she said. “I don’t testimonial about sexual stories, Banks cited “American down her back. “Maybe we’ll Kiehl’s, Patrón and Champagne know what it is, but I have, like, abuse. Selena Gomez looked Idol” winner Phillip Phillips’ jump in and bid after a mar- Nicolas Feuillatte — drew the two minutes to go find it.” cute in her microscopic dress. performance. — ERIK MAZA garita,” she said to Arizona Muse, usual suspects. There were — TAYLOR HARRIS High Steaks OLD-SCHOOL is coming back mezzanine; exposed, yellowed in fashion — or at least that’s brick, and a large dark wood bar what Laurent Tourondel and at the entrance, diners may feel Paul Goldstein hope. as if they are stepping into the Tourondel, the chef behind past — or perhaps even Grand various restaurants, including Central’s main concourse. BLT Steak, and Goldstein, the “There’s a big push with our managing partner of Tao Group, company to bring old-school have joined forces to create back,” Golstein said. “I feel like Arlington Club, a new Upper the restaurant has somewhat East Side steak house that gotten too new-school.” opens Friday. In doing so, Golstein and Inside Inspired by old New York, the Tourondel went on a mission to Arlington eatery infuses Tourondel’s take find artifacts from the past, and Club. Laurent Tourondel and Paul Goldstein on modern American cuisine stumbled upon a stash of old- ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY with Tao Group’s atmospheric fashioned seltzer bottles, which design aesthetic. The group, read “Arlington Club Soda.” table will get a bottle of house “We want to create a convivial do it as good, if not better than, which is responsible for New They quickly snapped them spritzed club soda upon arrival. atmosphere,” the chef said. everyone else.” York sceney spots such as Lavo, up and decided to name the While steak-house favorites While the concept may not be — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD Tao and Beauty & Essex, has restaurant after their find. like côte de boeuf grace the novel, novelty isn’t exactly what transformed the 5,500-square- “The name is appropriate, menu, so too does pressed the duo is aiming to achieve. Arlington Club foot dining space into a and to me it sounds very clubby. Osaka-style sushi with a variety “We aren’t looking to 1032 Lexington Avenue restaurant inspired by the Penn In terms of the food, it’s very of sauces. Tourondel’s intention reinvent the wheel,” Goldstein New York Station of the early 1900s. related to the steak concept,” said is for noncarnivores to be able explained. “We are looking to 212-249-5700 With expansive arches; a Tourondel, who added that each to find something as well. take what everyone loves and to arlingtonclubny.com. WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2012 11 WWD.COM
apparel retailer GoJane.com for an undisclosed amount. Based in Ontario, FASHION SCOOPS Calif., the online fashion retailer was founded by Tony Pang and Kurt Kimura in 1998. It currently generates about $19 million in annual revenues. LEATHER WEATHER: After being During his speech, Millerand Thomas P. Johnson, chief executive decorated as a Chevalier de l’Ordre lauded Marino for defining luxury officer of Aéropostale, said the des Arts et des Lettres on Monday retailing via his store designs for A Dannijo bib acquisition “complements our fast night in Paris, Peter Marino lifted his left Dior, Chanel, Fendi and other elite necklace. growing e-commerce business as we arm — bare but for the leather straps clients, and for his devotion to France’s expand into new product categories encircling his bicep and wrists — and artistic riches. A rabid collector, and offerings.” — VICKI M. YOUNG pumped his fist into the air as if he he owns some 1,000 pieces of 19th- were at a football game. century French porcelain, in addition AS LOCH WOULD HAVE IT: Cashmere, It was a pitch-perfect reaction for to Renaissance and Baroque bronzes. wool and fur will be at a premium the American architect, famous for He also has an eye on contemporary for the fashion flock come Dec. 4 his growling voice and penchant for artists including Wim Delvoye, Johan when Chanel stages its next fashion skintight biker regalia. The latter Creten and Jean-Michel Othoniel, and often show — an open-air spectacle at had the crowd gathered at Les Arts commissions them to create works for the foot of the 15th-century Linlithgow Décoratifs for the ceremony wondering his retail and private clients. Palace in West Lothian, just outside how French furniture expert Thierry Berenson was dashing out after of Edinburgh. (Linlithgow means “the Millerand might pierce his outfit to pin the event to the waxworks destination loch in the damp hollow.”) Originally on the medal. “I had a little grosgrain Musée Grévin to shoot more scenes the royal palace of the Stuarts and the ribbon stitched on the leather belt,” in a film Arielle Dombasle is developing birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots, the Marino explained to a round of about Jean Cocteau. In it, Berenson palace today lies roofless and ruined, chuckles, referring to the heavy straps plays Italian heiress and muse Luisa yet still imposing. Karl Lagerfeld, who has that crisscrossed his torso. Casati, among other characters. “It’s illustrated the invitation, depicts sky Earlier, his associate Gay Gassmann very surreal,” she enthused. “And it’s a showing through the upper windows gripped onto Marino via the harness, musical.” — MILES SOCHA of the structure, though his deluxe pre- shepherding him through a crowd that DANNIJO POPS UP: Dannijo is trying its fall collection for Chanel — known as included John Elkann, Delphine Arnault, IT’S CHEAPER THAN CAUSEWAY: After hand at brick-and-mortar — opening a the Métiers d’Art for its use of the Claude Lalanne, Marisa Berenson and a raft 11 years at the top, New York’s Fifth pop-up store in New York City’s NoLIta couture ateliers Chanel owns — will of luxury executives including Chanel’s Avenue has lost its place as the world’s neighborhood on Thursday. Located be paraded after nightfall. Maureen Chiquet and Bruno Pavlovsky, most expensive retail destination to at 27 Prince Street, the 600-square- Chanel chose Edinburgh because it Bulgari’s Michael Burke, Lancôme’s Youcef Hong Kong’s Causeway Bay, according foot space will be open through Dec. is home to the tweeds and cashmeres Nabi and Francesco Trapani, president of to a report from global real estate 30, carrying the brand’s statement integral to its collections. As reported, LVMH’s watch and jewelry division. adviser Cushman & Wakefield. accessories and iPhone cases, Chanel recently acquired the elite Rents on the Asian thoroughfare including a collection that’s exclusive cashmere firm Barrie Knitwear, located average $2,630 a square foot in 2012, to the store. “We thought that holiday in Hawick in the Scottish Borders. up 34.9 percent versus the same was a great time to do a pop-up. This Meanwhile, Lagerfeld is brushing up period last year, compared with our busiest time for jewelry,” said on local lore. “I’m studying everything $2,500 for Fifth Avenue — an Dannijo cofounder Jodie Snyder. “If about the history of Scotland,” he said, increase of 11.1 percent. this is a success, we would love a “because I like to arrive informed.” But the biggest climber in the top permanent brick-and-mortar space — M.S. 10 was Avenue des Champs-Elysées in in New York City.”
PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY Paris, which jumped two places into The shop’s biggest draw by far is JEWELED TWILIGHT: Damiani has added a third spot, overtaking Tokyo’s Ginza a chandelier dedicated to the brand’s touch of sparkle to the Twilight saga’s and Sydney’s Pitt Street Mall. Rents signature bib necklaces. The duo is last episode, “Breaking Dawn: Part 2.” on the Champs-Elysées now average even bringing some of the bestselling The Italian jewelry maker has $1,129 a square foot, representing a 30 colorways back, and new versions with created the Aro Necklace, which Aro, percent jump year-on-year, boosted by more crystal, pearls and elaborate a leader of the Volturi ruling vampire the opening of Levi Strauss & Co. and beads. Snyder and cofounder and sister clan, gives to Bella Swan (Kristen Stewart) the refurbishment of the Hugo Boss Danielle Snyder plan to host weekly events for her wedding to Edward Cullen flagship, among others. for each of the six weeks the boutique is (Robert Pattinson) in the movie hitting Global rents recorded a 4.5 percent open. A selection of antique jewelry, bags theaters Friday. Taking inspiration from average increase for prime locations and a few Parisian labels the duo like the description of the necklace made as luxury retailers battled for will also stand alongside their jewelry. by author Stephanie Meyer in the fourth space in the most coveted shopping — RACHEL STRUGATZ novel of the “Twilight” series, Damiani destinations. “There has been the wrapped a large round diamond in usual jostling for the top positions GO JANE GO: Aéropostale Inc. has burnished brown gold. between Hong Kong and New York, acquired the online footwear and — ALESSANDRA TURRA but of course the real message here is the unfaltering advance of the top global cities, fuelled by a shortage of supply and the interest Delphine of international brands,” stated Arnault and John Strachan, head of the global Doris Brynner retail services at Cushman & Wakefield. — JOELLE DIDERICH For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. American Apparel Loss Expands ercised, the loss on them comes against a By ARNOLD J. KARR gain of $6.1 million in last year’s quarter. Stripping out interest and warrant lia- STRONGER SALES were insufficient to bility along with other items, the compa- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, EVENINGWEAR DESIGN DIRECTOR SALES PRODUCTIONS A leading NY women’s eveningwear Los Angeles based Junior & Girls tops offset higher interest expense and account- ny said consolidated adjusted earnings Full service shop to the trade. company is seeking an experienced manufacturer/importer looking for a ing items as American Apparel Inc. more before interest, taxes, depreciation and Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Design Director. The qualified indi- New York showroom/salesperson with vidual will have 10+ years hands-on established and successful connec- than doubled losses in the third quarter. amortization more than doubled to $13.3 experience, with a minimum five (5) tions with major chains and dept In the three months ended Sept. 30, million from $6.4 million a year ago. years designing better eveningwear; stores. Please e-mail your resume to: strong management experience; an [email protected] the net loss escalated to $18.5 million, or “EBITDA performance for the 12 outstanding taste level along with an excellent understanding of garment 18 cents a diluted share, from a loss of $7 months ended Sept. 30, 2012, was $28 mil- construction & apparel production million, or 7 cents, in the year-ago quar- lion or double that reported for the full processes. Please respond with salary history/requirements to: ter. Sales grew 15.1 percent, to $162.2 year in 2011,” said Dov Charney, chair- [email protected] million from $140.9 million, as compara- man and chief executive officer of the ble-store sales were up 20 percent and financially troubled vertical retailer. “As VP Marketing Executive Global brand is looking for an experi- comparable online sales up 21 percent. we improve store productivity and ag- enced Marketing Executive with 7-10 years’ experience with a proven track Gross margin declined to 52.5 per- gressively grow our online and wholesale record of developing a marketing cent of sales from 53.2 percent in the businesses, we expect operating expense strategy to build brand equity and con- sumer and trade awareness. Apparel 2011 quarter. leverage will allow us to continue to sig- experience a must and sports market- While interest expense was up 18.4 nificantly grow EBITDA performance.” ing a plus. Must be hands on and will- ing to relocate. Please submit your re- percent to $10.5 million from $8.8 million However, the company lowered its sume to: a year ago, the biggest toll on the bottom projections for full-year EBITDA to a [email protected] line came from a $13.3 million loss tied to range of $36 million to $40 million based the increase in the fair market value of on the impact of Hurricane Sandy and outstanding warrants based on changes in investments in advertising and store (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] the company’s stock price. Although the technologies. The earlier guidance was warrants will convert to equity when ex- for EBITDA of $36 million to $44 million. NORTHEAST
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Traffic Jam The calendar is filled with an array of trade fairs in the first half of 2013 and organizers hope to have packed houses like the one at this Bread & Butter show in Berlin. PHOTO BY STEFFI TAGGELT/©BREADANDBUTTER.COM PHOTO BY 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2012
SECTION II WWD.COM
INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS Waiting Out Euro-Zone Woes
rather than the increasingly By SAMANTHA CONTI cash-strapped and cautious The European debt crisis locals, while the middle-mar- dampens the first-half outlook. LONDON — Anyone wondering about ket continues to suffer. the future of Europe could always “Overseas visitors are have a glance at German Chancellor driving sales growth and Angela Merkel’s diary. will continue to drive it over Earlier this month, she told a the Christmas period,” said regional meeting of her Christian Michael Ward, managing di- Democratic party in Berlin that the rector of Harrods, during a sovereign debt crisis in the region roundtable breakfast spon- would last “at least” five more years. sored by Walpole, the organi- “Whoever thinks this can be fixed in zation that aims to promote one or two years is wrong,” she said. British luxury brands. Few would disagree. In September, Ward said the Chinese, consumer confidence remained broad- African, Thai, Indonesian ly flat in Europe, according to the and other Far Eastern European Commission, while consum- tourists want superluxury ers’ unemployment expectations wors- brands, while the middle ened. European households’ expecta- market is disappearing. tions about their financial situation That’s just one reason why and savings over the next 12 months Marks & Spencer is having remained broadly unchanged. problems. In its latest finan- “Most of Europe is in recession cial report, the widely regard- right now, and I don’t see how fashion ed bellwether for high-street and clothing can escape the effects sales reported a 9.7 percent of the economy,” said Nick Hood, a slide in pretax profits and a continued bleak out- look for U.K. spending. the shoe brand, and with Topman for a “A key part of the gross margin ex- Burberry’s sales “Recent trading has been series of Harris Tweed jackets and ac- pansion story for European apparel have flourished. volatile,” said chief executive cessories. retailers over the past 10 years has officer Marc Bolland. “This, While the higher end of the market been the removal or loosening of cloth- coupled with continuing pres- is thriving, the struggling middle mar- ing import quotas from outside the sure on consumers’ disposable ket could soon come under new cost EU [European Union], which has led incomes, makes us cautious pressures. to increased imports from low-cost about the outlook for the rest According to a recent report by manufacturing countries, particu- of this year.” Bernstein Research entitled “European larly China,” said the report. “While PPR, with brands ranging Apparel Retail: Apparel Cost Inflation in European apparel retailers have ben- from Gucci to Puma, encap- China and the Gross Margin Problem,” efited from these lower costs over the sulates the polarization in the the benefits of cheap production in past decade, the key question going market. Last month, Puma re- China may have reached their peak. forward is whether there are more ported an 85.1 percent slide in sourcing gains to be had, or whether third-quarter net profits, re- costs may begin to increase, pressuring flecting the impact of restruc- retailers’ gross margins.” turing measures designed to The Bernstein study said savings offset a sharp decline in sales are likely close to peak levels for the in crisis-hit Europe. Puma industry and that apparel input cost plans to shut around 80 stores, inflation is “increasingly likely” over mainly in mature markets, and the next five years. has already started cutting Hood of Company Watch said jobs, particularly in Europe. Bernstein’s projection sounds about By contrast, third-quarter right. revenues at PPR’s luxury di- “I don’t think input prices are going vision climbed 24.3 percent, to go down,” he added. “If labor costs fueled by Gucci, YSL and are rising in China, it’s only a matter of Bottega Veneta. time before they’re rising in Vietnam, A similar story applies to too, one reason why there’s more and the fabric firms that are set to more talk about bringing manufactur- show over the next six months. ing back to Europe.” Laurent Garigue, who sup- And that could be one of the engines business analyst at Company Watch, plies high-end women’s fabrics to Harris Tweed said 2012 was its driving the recovery in Europe, for a London-based firm that monitors major British, French and Italian best for production in many years. which Merkel and others are hoping. retailers’ and other companies’ finan- fashion houses, said over the past few cial health. “By general consensus, years every client has increased the the U.K. is having its worst year since quality of fabrics it buys. 2008, and the victims are the special- “There’s been a marked shift high- ist retailers without good online of- er,” Garigue said. “Even the high end ferings. Fashion is polarized between has moved up a notch.” Primark and the luxury brands, while He added that his clients are order- M&S [Marks & Spencer] is a perfect ing smaller numbers of units at higher example of how the middle market is prices. suffering.” “Four years ago, the big question Primark is a key player in the value from clients was ‘How much?’ Today, fashion retail sector, with more than the question is ‘Is it beautiful?’ Price 240 stores in the U.K., Ireland, Spain, is no longer the overriding factor,” said Portugal, Germany, the Netherlands, Garigue, who is founder and owner of Belgium and Austria. the namesake British company. “There “The feeling in the U.K. is that are no taboo prices, the product just there will be a major correction, with has to be beautiful.” almost every major retailer cutting Similarly, the Harris Tweed back on its number of stores,” Hood Industry Forum said last month that added, with companies opting for mul- 2012 had been its best year for produc- tichannel growth outside the U.K. and tion in almost 15 years. Europe. It expects total production to reach European sales at big brands such more than 1.1 million yards of cloth as Burberry are flourishing due to the by the end of the year. Over the past Chanel’s Rue Cambon store in Paris.
international, big-spending traveler year, it has collaborated with Clarks, PIASECKI/FILMMAGIC MARC PHOTO BY
4 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2012
SECTION II WWD.COM
INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS The Ethical Fashion Show. Paris Salons Primed for Foreign Visitors Bijohrca, the international jewelry ex- around 85 percent of foreign visitors. By LAURE GUILBAULT hibition to be held from Jan. 18 to 21, Messe Frankfurt France has scrapped and Maison & Objet, from Jan. 18 to 22. the Ethical Fashion Show, which would PARIS — Despite a depressed global The shows will take place amid a have taken place in January. economic context, trade shows organiz- gloomy outlook for the French mar- “We noticed that there are not enough ers in Paris are forecasting that footfall ket. According to data from the French companies in France interested in the for the first half of the year is going to be Fashion Institute, or IFM, sales of wom- ethical fashion sector,” Scherpe said. on par with last year, thanks to an uptick en’s ready-to-wear dropped 5.8 percent He added that Messe is looking to in visitors from emerging markets. in the first seven months of the year and bring back the salon with a new format, Many shows under the Paris sales of men’s rtw were down 2.5 percent. geared to consumers this time, prefer- Capitale de la Création umbrella, “Even the luxury end of the market is ably in Paris in May. the collective that groups some of the seeing a settling,” said François-Marie Another change to the Paris scene French capital’s leading trade shows Grau, general secretary of the French comes from Who’s Next, slated for and events in fashion, accessories Women’s Ready-to-Wear Federation. Jan. 19 to 22. The banner “Who’s Next ative agency La Part des Anges. and design, are upping their fashion In 2012 overall, Grau expects rtw sales Prêt-à-Porter Paris,” encompassing six “We have editions of the show in ante to generate interest. Initiatives to fall at least 2 to 3 percent. Exports are areas, will become “Who’s Next Paris.” Hong Kong and Shanghai. We wanted range from the creation of a new event, a sweet spot, however. French women’s “We dropped ‘Prêt-à-Porter’ to high- to regroup all of them under the same Tranoï Preview, to the return of Maison apparel exports to the U.S., for instance, light that we have as many accessories logo to [capitalize on the] Interfilière d’Exceptions by Première Vision and a jumped 47.5 percent in the first six brands as ready-to-wear brands,” a brand,” said Taya de Reyniès, lingerie new logo for textile fair Interfilière. months of 2012, according to the IFM. spokeswoman for the show explained. division director at organizer Eurovet. Others like Salon International de Michael Scherpe, president of Messe There are about 2,000 brands, split Première Vision, with a three-day la Lingerie hope better dates for their Frankfurt France, the organizer of the equally between apparel and accesso- session running Feb. 12 to 14 in the 2013 editions — Jan. 19 to 21 — will put Texworld and Apparel Sourcing shows ries. New this year, all rtw will be on Paris Nord Villepinte fairground, ex- them in good shape to attract Asian con- that will run simultaneously from Feb. the same level, divided into three areas: pects to maintain its position as a key sumers. Unlike in 2012, the show doesn’t 12 to 15 at Le Bourget, is feeling the Fame, Private and Mr. Brown, which upscale fabric fair. overlap with Chinese New Year, which pinch as companies lack visibility. houses men’s wear. All accessories will “In tough times, companies focus falls on Feb. 10. The same holds true of Texworld and Apparel Sourcing attract be located on the second level, divided their investments on the leading trade into Who’s Next Accessories, repre- shows,” said Philippe Pasquet, chief senting the bulk of the offer, Premiere executive officer of Première Vision. Classe and Mr. Brown Accessories. Première Vision Pluriel, the net- The new kid in town, Tranoï Preview, work of six shows under the same ban- will feature brands that produce both ner, had 55,185 visitors and 1,544 exhib- men’s and women’s collections. The itors in February. event is to take place Jan. 19 to 21 at the “I have no crystal ball, but while the Carrousel du Louvre, in tandem with euro zone was already severely impact- Tranoï’s main men’s salon at the Bourse. ed in September, we saw no collapse Visitors will have access to both shows in the number of our visitors, includ- with a single pass. ing visitors from affected markets like Salon International de la Lingerie, Spain and Italy,” said Pasquet. which will take place at the Porte de Visitors from Japan, the U.S. and Versailles, will celebrate its 50th edition China were up 19 percent, 8 percent with a 5,400-square-foot forum displaying and 11 percent, respectively. a look back at a half-century of creation. The show is bringing back its In 2012, the show attracted 18,604 visitors, Maison d’Exceptions initiative, an en- up 5.8 percent compared with 2011, and closed area showcasing about 20 inter- 565 exhibitors, 13 percent more than 2011. national companies boasting special Séverine Marchesi, the show’s director, manufacturing techniques. said about 450 exhibitors had signed up “It’s a small area, but the initiative so far and that she expects roughly the is highly symbolic of what we are capa- same numbers as last year. ble of doing in terms of creativity and
PHOTO BY O. PANIER DES TOUCHES/DOLCE VITA PANIER O. PHOTO BY SIL’s sister event, Interfilière, has a service for a value-added clientele,” The Texworld show. new logo designed by Paris-based cre- said Pasquet.
Asian Exhibitions Feeling Some Pain The Japan Creation show. back production and taken other mea- profits are slimmer than they would By KATHLEEN E. MCLAUGHLIN sures to become more competitive. be for exports. and KELLY WETHERILLE At the Intertextile trade show in Meanwhile, trade-show develop- Shanghai last month, there were signs ments in Japan are more logistical in AS ANOTHER year of trade shows and of a gradual sourcing shift away from scope. The Hikarie Building, a new events kicks off in Asia, industry watch- China as economies in Europe and the multiuse complex and shopping mall ers are eyeing macroeconomic and logis- U.S. continue to slow down. There ap- attached to Tokyo’s busy Shibuya sta- tical developments in the region. peared to be a loss of momentum with tion, has provided show organizers with China’s manufacturing sector has fewer Western attendees. an ideally located venue option, and been hit hard in recent years, entering a Overall, government figures show some are already taking advantage of slump that won’t easily be reversed. For that China’s economy continues to slow, it. Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo textile and apparel makers here, times but perhaps at a more stable rate. In made the move to use the Hikarie are tough but the field appears to at least the third quarter of this year, overall Building as its main venue starting with be stabilizing. growth was 7.4 percent, down from 7.6 its spring edition in October and it will “Business is difficult, but we are not percent a quarter earlier and a far cry use it again in March for the fall shows. losing more orders this year,” said Pan from the steady double-digit growth Also in March, the fashion, art and Xiaohai, marketing manager for a south- the country counted on just a few years lifestyle fair Plug In will be held there. ern textile factory. “We want to increase ago. Analysts have said China’s growth The complex is seen as more conve- our orders and exports, but for the com- would slow, but continue at a more mod- niently and strategically located than ing months the situation won’t change.” erate pace in the months ahead. many other Tokyo trade-show venues, as Production in China, still the world’s While the pace of manufacturing has it is in the heart of one of the city’s most largest maker of textiles and apparel, slowed significantly and demand for vibrant fashion districts. Chinese buyers canceled their trips to began backsliding with the onset of the China’s products declined somewhat, Last spring, organizers of the Tokyo for fashion week in October due global financial meltdown in late 2008. the country’s domestic consumption is RoomsLink show, which gener- to tensions between the two countries The Chinese government poured billions picking up some of the slack. The lat- ally runs concurrently with Japan stemming from a territorial dispute, a of dollars in infrastructure investment est figures this fall from the National Fashion Week, said they would hold spokeswoman for RoomsLink said they into the country, mostly in projects such Bureau of Statistics said domestic con- similar fairs in Taipei and Seoul this didn’t notice much of a drop in visitors as railways and highways. Yet the manu- sumption accounts for 55 percent of the October and November. They plan to from overseas. Of the 10,000 attendees facturing sector was left to fend largely country’s gross domestic product, having continue this push toward internation- to the most recent Tokyo installment of for itself, particularly smaller, indepen- grown steadily in recent years. alization, with another show tentative- RoomsLink, about 40 percent were buy- dent companies. Thousands of factories For manufacturers in China, that ly planned for Seoul in March and one ers. The spokeswoman said there were have shut down and a large percentage means making more products suited in Taipei next fall. Chinese visitors among these, but that of those still in business have scaled to Chinese buyers, even though the While it was reported that many exact figures were not yet available.
6 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2012
SECTION II WWD.COM
INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS German Fairs Set to Reap Economic Benefits
tailers and we’ll help with hotel book- By MELISSA DRIER ings, shuttles and special VIP services. We’re trying to get the most important BERLIN — The German trade fair retailers to Berlin, even if business scene is going to be as packed as ever isn’t so good.” in 2013, but buyers and participants The contemporary shows Capsule may need to get their bearings as orga- and Show & Order, and The Gallery nizers introduce new events, fresh set- Berlin are all confidently moving ahead. ups and new venues. “Capsule is blooming in Berlin. We While the hub of the activity is in are continuing to grow and strengthen Berlin, where more than a dozen fairs our presence,” said cofounder Edina and trade platforms will be staged be- Sultanik. “The retailers who come to tween Jan. 15 and 18, fairs such as Ispo our show are looking for either com- and Munich Fabric Start, as well as as- mercial-mainstream product, similar sorted ready-to-wear events in Munich to our Vegas show, or the really avant- and Düsseldorf remain firmly established garde collections, so we are able to on the German trade show calendar. present a wide range of product.” Signs point to a favorable season Capsule also features young Berlin start. Europe’s largest single market is and German designers and brands still on solid economic ground, German in its mix. consumer sentiment has remained posi- Show & Order, now in its third sea- tive and the nation’s apparel retailers son, has acquired about 70 new exhibi- are expected to close 2012 somewhat tors for a total of 250 to 300 brands. ahead of or on par with 2011. Yet shift- “We’ve had queries from Spain, Capsule in Berlin. ing market conditions, consolidation on Scandinavia and Italy, so slowly, peo- both the retail and manufacturer level ple are getting to know about us,” said and euro zone worries are coloring the a “real urbanwear concept, with jeans, thing and successfully exist in the jun- show founder Verena Malta, noting the industry climate here for the year ahead. sportswear, sneakers and a bit of fash- gle of trends,” noted Premium cofound- focus is high-fashion, sophisticated, ca- Karl-Heinz Müller, founder and chief ion. We have to mix the content and the er Anita Tillmann. sual collections not necessarily from executive officer of Bread & Butter, was brands. Not this mono-culture.” Premium consistently changes about designer brands. one of the first to reshuffle the decks. To B&B’s other areas, including 25 percent of the brands showing each The Gallery Berlin is also looking reactivate the “selected” aspect of this L.O.C.K., Fire Station, Superior Men/ season “to inspire the buyers and help to get bigger in Berlin, said Mirjam “trade show for selected brands,” he Women and Sport & Street, will large- them find something new.” She sees Dietz, international brand develop- scaled back the show’s 600-brand portfo- ly remain intact, though some brands a rise in so-called avant-garde col- ment and communications director lio by some 100 to 120 exhibitors. Müller may move into the main hall. And Style lections of the Rick Owens ilk, with for the Igedo Co., but space limitations still won’t name names of the “uninvit- Society and Fashion Now are merging, a growing number of designers from means the next edition in Café Moscow ed” and the most recent exhibitor list with a stronger, young women’s fashion Japan and South Korea opting for will continue to feature about 150 has some glaring omissions. focus. Is this programmed disorienta- Premium and Berlin. brands. She said the portfolio would be “The list is updated daily, and names tion for show veterans? “There are young companies, young “more mixed. Like the market, which is only go on that list when the contract “There’s nothing worse than bore- people looking for a new spot where changing.” She added the fair business has been signed and the space is defini- dom,” he countered. “It’s important that they can move and make it,” Tillmann is also changing. tively set,” Müller explained. “People people discover things. I think a woman’s said. “[They want to] connect with new like Jason Denham will of course be boutique, for example, should look at people and also go out, so Berlin is a there, but it’s not clear whether in Sport & Street, see the different cultures.” big attraction. They’re even looking for L.O.C.K. or the main hall. The same goes Premium is gearing up for its 10th showrooms here. It’s a movement.” for Tommy Hilfiger. They’re planning anniversary this season. To help mark New to the Berlin scene is something spectacular, but it’s not clear the occasion, chosen exhibitors are of- Panorama, a trade fair for more mid- exactly where [in the halls].” fering limited-edition items that can range and broader distribution brands One thing is clear, however. The only be purchased at the show. Also in originally scheduled to debut at Berlin’s main hall, which was cleaned out the the works: a 43,000-square-foot Atelier new airport last July. The airport is most, will no longer be called Denim space representing the “essence” of still in construction, but Panorama is Base, “which it never really was,” Premium, housing brands like “Mykita, nonetheless taking off this January Müller stressed. Instead, he sees it as HTC, LaLa Berlin…who do their own with about 350 exhibitors in the 215,000-square-foot Airport ExpoCenter. Panorama ceo Jörg Wichmann sees the fair’s portfolio of moderate and casual brands like American Retro, Bandolera, Betty Barclay, Comma, Marc Cain, Pierre Cardin and S. Oliver as a supple- ment to the city’s more street, niche and designer offerings. “It’s an international mix and there are many companies who’ve never shown in Berlin or Germany,” he said. “And they’ll attract a completely new group of buyers to Berlin.” When the airport is in service, Panorama should be a natural first stop, as visitors will be landing there. But to Style Society at Bread & Butter. make sure they head in that direction now, Panorama is organizing a 150-car “You’re seeing so-called boutique fleet, transfer service, luggage delivery, fairs here, rather than big stands and after-breakfast shuttles and more. big spending,” Dietz said. “More com- Service is also a prime consideration panies here are likely to spend that at Bright, the trade show for skateboard budget on marketing to the final con- and sneaker fashion that’s moving to the sumer or their own retail.” more central Alte Münze, or Old Mint. Igedo, which formerly organized Bright’s exhibitor roster is stable at the mega CPD fair in Düsseldorf, also about 300, but business “is relatively dif- puts on The Gallery Düsseldorf with ficult for us all,” said cofounder Thomas 200 participants. In Moscow, however, Martini. Though Bright’s segment is big is still the rule, with Igedo’s 600,000 profiting from the latest sneaker boom, square-foot CPM Moscow trade fair. there have been major manufacturer The green fashion sector will con- and retail closures. Just last month, tinue to be served in Berlin by Green Burton said it was phasing out some of Showroom and Ethical Fashion, both its apparel lines, Martini noted. organized by Messe Frankfurt. The “What’s happening is a stricter se- sustainable fashion show platform Ispo in lection process,” he said. “So we’ve Showfloor Berlin, which had partnered Munich. set up a retail care program, where with Lavera cosmetics, is reorganizing exhibitors can send us their 20 top re- itself independently for January. ADVERTISEMENT Rendezvous SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA LINGERIE Be inspired by a global offer—550 brands and more than 100 new brands making their debut. in KEY EXHIBITORS Eva B.Bitzer Massana Susa Acqua By Regence Fantasie Max Holliday Swan Original Adrian Fargeot Max Mara Sweet Chic by Ghibi Aff airs by Sassa Fashion Forms Mei-Dô Sybaris Affi nitas Fauve Millesia Taubert Alba Felina Mimi Holliday Teccia Al'Dente Fever Minuit Douze Thea Alix De Riberolles Fleur Of England MiracleSuit Shapewear Thierry Poncelet by Pilus Ambra Corsetteria Foemina Miss Blackbirdy Trasparenze Andres Sarda Fordville Mixgliss Trinny and Susannah by Anita Active Freya Moda Bahia Cette Anita Care Frivole Moments by Lingadore Triolet Anita Comfort FRM Group Moretta Twin-Set Beachwear Salon International de la Lingerie and Interfi lière Paris Anita Maternity Furstenberg Myani Ulla Dessous Annette Lingerie Gabriella - Tights Producer N@t Men Ultra International Antigel de Lise Charmel Gaetano Cazzola Nansu Lenceria Un : Usual Antinea de Lise Charmel Gattina Naomi & Nicole Undressed THIS JANUARY 19-21, SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA Arianna Gerbe Naturally V.O.V.A Arijs Girl and Co Naturana Va Bien - Ultralift LINGERIE and INTERFILIERE PARIS —the international Artimaglia Good Devil Naturana Exclusiv Valcuvia Assia Gossard Nikol Djumon Valege rendezvouses for lingerie professionals—will welcome buyers Aubade Gracija-Rim Nota Lingerie Valery Bacirubati Grazia'Lliani Novella Vanilla Night & Day from all over the world in Paris at Porte de Versailles, Hall 1. 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The art of creation Edgies Madiva SK Rose & Petal event yet. Filled with magic and beauty, will be also the focus of the new Elise Anderegg Maglifi co Po SRL Skin'Up Seafolly Elly Carezza Maidenform Smooth by Cosabella Selene it will transport visitors into an ice designer’s catwalk show, presenting the Elomi Maison Close Sono Corsetterie Tatyana Ariyan Design age fantasy—balancing elegance and tradeshow's picks and favorites for Fall- Emilio Cavallini Maki Marie Sotela Timonier Eminence Marbella Soyelle Twinday creativity, tradition and innovation. Winter 2013/2014. Be guided by our Empreinte Margot Barth Spanx UnderProtection Attendees will explore more than experts to discover the bestsellers and Eprise de Lise Charmel Marie Jo Steff y Velvette Epure de Lise Charmel Maristella Creazioni Steff y Lingerie What Katie Did 550 brands of lingerie, corsetry, home- products you need for your boutique in Espiral Marjolaine Suggest by Pain de Sucre Ysabel Mora wear, loungewear, nightwear, and the “Selection Guide.” Espirit Marlies|Dekkers Suite B Yse men’s underwear, highlighting the For those looking or innovative Eva Masquerade Lingerie Superbra by Panache young designers who are providing materials, creative solutions, original more creativity than ever. designs and quality in lingerie INTERFILIÈRE PARIS This “special edition” event will and swimwear, the destination is focus on a new space called AGORA Interfi lière Paris. A showcase for exceptional materials. View a complete off ering of remarkable materials—from fi bers to Retailers—off ering ideas and tips Taking center stage this season: fabrics, laces to embroideries, and fi ndings to accessories. Featuring 150 exhibitors from 25 countries. KEY EXHIBITORS: Encajes Liberty Tex Sofi leta to improve merchandising in your lace. Timelessly on trend, lace inspires Alge Elastic Eurostick Liebaert Solstiss boutique, and the trade show's "Sweet the fashion world and constantly Anderes Asia EuroTextile Lior Soulis-Kuehnis Antik Dantel Eusebio LUNAS France Susanna Samson Design Boutique" with 50th anniversary breaks new ground. Aronne Faccio Group Fashion Resources Mastex Takeda Lace collectables. With presence on site, The lynchpin event of the tradeshow, Art Martin FeinJersey MG Creation Taubert Textil Arula Fleischmann (Hung Hon) Miroglio Textile TDI Textildruck IMST international and French retailers the General Forum has inspired a Andre Avio Fleischmann Karl Moda Pierre Tessitura Rossi associations will off er access to a wealth of creativity and successful Be Be Cotton Flexyform Mode…Information Tianhai Lace Billion Crea'lys Forster Rohner Fritz Moll TVB business center and personalized ideas. Under the artistic direction of Jos Bischoff Gamma Gabler Band MR - Creation Uhlemann & Lantzsch training on social networking Berry from the Concepts Paris trends Bischoff Roja Gayou International Muehlmeier Bodyshaping Union Bischoff Textil Grobelastic Nelly Rodi - Trendlab Louis Vidon strategies—such as creating your agency, the Trends Forum will reveal Boselli Grupo Moda Estilmar Noyon Dentelle Wing Win Enterprises boutique's Facebook page. a fi rst look at Summer 2014, including Bouvelle Hammerle & Vogel Odea Wu Tong Industrial Cap Sud - J3 Händel & Diller Papillon Ribbon & Bow Zengcheng Oriental Em- While you’re there, visit the the innovative and on-trend fabrics Carlin International Henitex International Penn Italia broidery Trends Forum and take a ticket to that will inspire designers worldwide. Chanty Lace Willy Hermann Penn Textile Solutions Cheynet Elastics Hong Tsai International Les Tissages Perrin NEW EXHIBITORS ICE LAND: discover emerging trends, Chief You Corporation Iluna Group Piave Maitex Ar-Teks Tekstil Chih Yi Embroidery Indesmalla Pizval Axel Market Management Cifra Innotex Merkel & Rau Promostyl Bra Cup Dentelles Clement Inplet Pletiva Ranitex (Strass Me Up) Brodissima X Order your pass at www.lingerie-paris.com and www.interfi liere.com Codentel Inter-Spitzen Rimteks EAT Tess. Colombo Antonio Jabouley Rocle By Isabella Hanggang Textile X Organize your trade show visit at +33 1 47 56 32 42 or Corvett-Spitzen Jotta Enterprise Royal Universal Lace Jerng Yuan Industrial [email protected] Darquer Junior Hagen (HK) Rueff Textil Johnson Lace Desseilles Laces Junior Hagen LTD Ruey Tay Fibre Ritex 2002 X Find updated information, the updated exhibitors list, a program of events, DGE Junior SRL by Adele ibetti Sakae Lace RR Collection fashion show schedules, conferences and more at www.lingerie-paris.com DJIC Limited Kewalram Indonesia Satab Sanko Tekstil and www.interfi liere.com Dresdner Spitzen Kuroda Lace Seram Stretchline Emme Latvia Lauma Fabrics Siva Lists dated 25th October. 8 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2012
SECTION II WWD.COM
INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS Italian Forecast: Clouds Starting to Clear economies are growing, and they’re on By CYNTHIA MARTENS the lookout for aspirational products, Giorgio Cannara which is an advantage for fashion com- MILAN — Italian trade fair organiz- pared to other product sectors.” ers are seeing some brightening skies Next year will also bring about or- ahead, noting that promotion of Italian ganizational changes for some trade quality and competitive pricing, com- fairs. Pitti Immagine has suspended bined with strong interest from emerg- its established trio of apparel and ac- ing markets, helped keep businesses cessories fairs — Touch, NeoZone and afloat in a challenging year. Cloudnine — and will instead show- In addition, many said the economic case a new women’s trade show called crunch had forced them to develop new Super, organized with Fiera Milano. initiatives to draw exhibitors and visitors. MIPAP is still slated to show alongside “You hear people say that 2013 will Pitti at Fieramilanocity. show the light at the end of the tun- Pitti chief executive officer nel,” said Giorgio Cannara, president of Raffaello Napoleone said exhibitors Mipel, the fair dedicated to accessories had been enthusiastic about Super, and leather goods. At Mipel’s September which will run from Feb. 23 to 25, coin- edition, “a number of companies sold ciding with Milan Fashion Week. extremely well,” he said, attributing “It’s not a short-term project,” their success to a reasonable balance Napoleone said. “It’s a fundamental between price and quality of merchan- step forward.” dise, a key factor when many customers In Florence in January, Kenzo and have limited disposable incomes. Maison Kitsuné will be the next guest Mipel takes place at the same designers at Pitti Uomo, where about time, as Mifur, the international fur 1,050 exhibitors are expected, and Pitti and leather exhibition, and shoe W, respectively. show Micam, from March 3 to 6 the Napoleone said Kenzo’s designer Fieramilano trade fair complex. Mifur duo Humberto Leon and Carol Lim had will feature 200 exhibitors from the caught the fair’s attention back when Italian and international fashion they worked at Opening Ceremony. in both fashion and music. Marcolin explained, offering exhibi- world, and will include new themed “They’ve been one of the most inter- In Vicenza, the Vicenzaoro Winter tors, buyers and visitors a variety of areas of the exhibition: B.box, focus- esting and fun sensations to emerge, edition will take place Jan. 19 to 24. The chances to network and attend in- ing on leather garments, technical fab- and they tie in perfectly with Pitti’s international gold jewelry fair of the depth seminars. This year, the fair fo- year will showcase the first collections cused on tailoring services to different of the year by the 1,700 exhibitors tak- visitor categories, offering transpor- ing part. It will coincide with T-Gold, an tation to opticians and opticians-in- international fair and one of its kind in training, and online hotel booking as- Italy dedicated to machinery and tools sistance for foreign visitors. for gold jewelry production. Many fair organizers spoke of their Also in early 2013, Pitti will be the sharp focus on emerging markets. special country guest at Copenhagen Noting that Milan remains a strong Fashion Week. Pitti Uomo is intro- draw for Russian and Middle Eastern ducing a new sportswear area called visitors, Bizzi said the city’s fashion I Play, which will replace the Sport & weeks helped make it an increasingly Sport section of previous editions. I international marketplace. In 2013, he Play will mix casual sportswear with also expects the U.S., China, Japan and more urban looks in what the fair is South Korea to be key foreign markets marketing as a crossover style, less tra- for White. ditional and with more creative punch. Marcolin said Brazil, Russia, India Designers Peter Bottazzi and Denise and China all represent promising Bonapace will create I Play’s layout at business hubs for the eyewear sector. the Cavaniglia Pavilion. “Italian eyewear is turning to these Cirillo Marcolin, president of Mido markets with increasing interest,” he optical fair, said despite market chal- added. “These are potential markets, lenges in Europe, trade fairs remain with interesting growth in percentage Vintage handbags essential business tools, and he ex- terms, but with a relatively small share at Mipel. pects Mido’s 2013 edition to surpass of total Italian exports in the sector.” this year’s strong turnout of 42,000 visi- Mipel’s Cannara said, “Russia is tors, of which 56 percent were foreign a growing market, as is Korea. China rics with trimmings and quilted jack- strategy,” he added. “They’re two and 44 percent Italian. has given us great satisfaction. ets; the designer-oriented Crossover; young people to keep an eye on.” “It’s precisely in difficult situations Products destined for the Chinese trend-spotting Glam Ave., and K.Point, Napoleone noted that Maison that it’s important to somehow attack market must be luxurious, for example where skins, accessories, buttons, mod- Kitsuné had been chosen for Pitti W the market decisively,” he said. in crocodile or python, and use highly els, machinery and tanning processing because its founders, Gildas Loaëc Mido is promoting itself increas- imaginative designs.” techniques will be showcased. and Masaya Kuroki, were influential ingly as an “event within an event,” Textiles and accessories fair Milano Massimiliano Bizzi, president of Unica, which just wrapped up its sec- White, a niche men’s and women’s fair ond Chinese edition in Shanghai, has that also displays accessories and cosmet- also been actively courting the Asian ics, was equally upbeat, noting that “the market. Milano Unica president Silvio excellent turnout and buying energy” of Albini said more than 3,000 visitors at- the fair’s September edition offered rea- tended the fair, a 50 percent increase son to hope for the next editions. over its first edition in Beijing last “Buyers who are betting on quality March. He also noted that Europe’s and research are obtaining good re- economic crisis “has imbued the mar- sults,” he said. “Certainly accessories ket with a more rational approach.” are becoming an increasingly impor- “There’s more attention to ‘value tant product category.” for money,’ so not just to price and not Emanuela Forlin, exhibition man- just to status,” Albini added. “In this, ager for MI Milano Prêt-à-Porter, also Italian textile and fashion companies known as MIPAP, said, “With the final in general have an advantage because results of 2012, we closed an unusually we have always produced things that difficult period.” She described 2013 are beautiful and well-made, synony- as a “transition phase,” with real im- mous with intrinsic quality and style.” provements only likely to be seen in Pitti’s Napoleone said, “The situa- the second semester. tion is complicated, although the sig- “Objectively speaking, in the U.S. nals we see are positive. Fashion has there have been improvements, and Italian fairs promote always come out of tough situations things happen first there, so it’s a “Made in Italy” quality. strengthened, almost empowered, and positive sign,” Forlin said. “Emerging that’s what’s happening today.”
10 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2012
SECTION II WWD.COM
INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS British Shows Taking Fresh Approach
“Coincidentally, the wedding market By LORELEI MARFIL and exhibition industry have remained remarkably buoyant over the past couple LONDON — British trade show organiz- of years,” said Alex Butler, sales man- ers are keeping calm and carrying on. ager of The National Wedding Show. Despite a tough economic climate, “Featuring three dedicated bridal areas, they’re approaching the upcoming season the show now offers retailers and design- with a positive outlook. While some are ers a platform to display and sell collec- focusing on expansion or upgrading their tions.…While other industries and media show space and extra features, others are types have suffered, the wedding indus- looking to fresh brands to boost numbers. try has continued to weather the storm “The biggest challenge to us all is to as couples continue to get married. The remain positive when faced with such an wedding show market has doubled in size extended and wide-reaching economic over the past couple of years.” climate,” said Carole Hunter, director Many of the exhibitors are focus- of marketing for LondonEdge Original, ing on expansion. Bubble London will LondonEdge Fashion and The Ledge, expand the show into a new hall this which showcases the alternative and season, which will accommodate more streetwear market. “The U.S. appears of the smaller Bubble GUM stands. It is to be finding its way through the storm also developing a visitor program that and where the U.S. goes, the U.K. usu- will provide retailers more pre-show in- ally follows. That said, there is room for formation and a more personal service. optimism. We expect, at the very least, to This year, Bubble London will un- sustain the same numbers as 2012 both veil a newly designed area: Nest and in terms of exhibitors and buyers. Bubble Hub. Hunter said the show is introducing “We believe it will give great visual some new focused areas that are expect- impact to the January edition,” said ed to generate interest. That, as well as Hoyes. “We are looking to introduce a the continued growth of the Ledge show new concept for June 2013, and this is and the introduction of Snow within it, still in the planning stages, but it will brings a favorable outlook. create extra value for those retailers Linda Hoyes, event director of attending the show.” Bubble London, which focuses on chil- She added that the team was also ex- dren’s wear, remains upbeat and eager tending the Bubble GUM area, which at- for the upcoming season. tracts add-on product and accessories. “I’m looking forward to innovative “We will also be introducing the new collections and fresh optimism after Bubble Hub, which will be a drop-in what was a difficult summer season for desk to help retailers get the most out of most brands and retailers in the U.K. the show when they are there. It will also and Europe,” Hoyes said. “Obviously, the help give the Bubble team more opportu- economic climate makes things tougher nity to interact with buyers,” said Hoyes. for everyone and we all have to work LondonEdge Original, LondonEdge harder to gain and retain success. I think Fashion and the Ledge are developing it is important for organizers to manage new features. They include London X, for brands’ expectations, especially those more risqué lingerie; The Festival Tent, that are launching into difficult trading which aims to supply music festival-go- conditions. Bubble London is lucky that ers with clothing and lifestyle products; it attracts some very unique and exclu- Horror & Costume and the continued sive collections that have been largely growth of VintEdge, which is vintage, unaffected by the downturn, but obvious- reformed vintage, vintage-inspired and ly some of the more established brands craft-inspired clothing and jewelry. have been badly affected.” Ledge is also introducing a spe- Bubble London She said the exhibition can only be a cific “snow arena” that offers retailers reflection of what is happening outside, snow-related merchandise. “All of this “but we try our best to encourage re- plus amazing stage acts, walkabout art- Moda to increase the number of busi- Coggles or Asos.com, the forward-think- tailers to look at new product and offer ists and themed areas,” said Hunter. ness seminars. In addition to the second ing stores know they need exciting new their customers something different Moda, which features contemporary edition of Flip running alongside Moda, products to maintain a difference from and unique that is worth investing in. I and classic apparel and accessories, they will also showcase Adorned, a new the high-street stores who all stock the believe that trade exhibitions are even will be enhancing its venue with a sec- area for new, niche and directional same cookie-cutter brand list.” more valuable when trading conditions ond runway. There will be new shows brands at Moda Accessories. New labels and creativity are the are difficult.” devoted to footwear, men’s wear and Textile Forum, which is celebrating its focus for Scoop International, a bou- The bridal market, meanwhile, has its urban, street and denim show Flip, 10th anniversary, plans to feature more tique trade show that features a global shown substantial growth and contin- which was launched last season. companies that manufacture in the U.K. roster of designers. ues to persevere. The new runway theater will enable “The economic climate will contin- “We’re welcoming more U.S. col- ue to be tough, and they say when the lections to Scoop International, in- going gets tough, the tough get going,” cluding Rebecca Taylor, Bleulab, said Linda Laderman, cofounder and Velvet, Mother, Cut 25, Eileen Fisher, organizer. “I think this is demonstrated Magaschoni, Art of Henri and many by the number of new businesses that more” said Scoop International attended the show, as well as represen- organizer Karen Radley. “Scoop tatives from global brands and leading International has an organic approach. edge designers. The demand for British Each year the format changes, en- made product will still be in vogue in compassing not only the exhibitors at PHOTO BY CHRISTOPHER DADEY PHOTO BY 2013 as companies want the ‘heritage’ Scoop International, but also the fabu- and also want to source closer to home.” lous works of art at the Saatchi Gallery, Odysseas Constantine, organizer of always a creative challenge. I take a Margin, a venue for emerging design- hands-on approach curating the look ers, said new brands are a key growth and the feel of the exhibition. This sets driver in tough times. Scoop International apart from your “Over this length of time we’ve seen more traditional trade shows.” the economic state of retail go up and Stitch, which focuses on men’s wear, down, but we’ve also observed that the has adjusted its show dates to accom- strongest stores are the ones who un- modate buyers. derstand that they need to provide their “We have moved to a midweek date shoppers with a reason to go to them,” line to fit better into the buying calen- he said. “Whether it’s Urban Industry dar in this tough climate. Our aim is to picking up on new U.K. streetwear increase footfall and ultimately build A display at The National Wedding Show. brands, or a young women’s wear label on the show’s success,” said Jennagh like Emily & Fin being ordered by Delaney, brand manager.”
SECTION II WWD.COM
INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS Canadian Organizers See Brighter Skies
By BRIAN DUNN
MONTREAL — Canada’s economic growth in 2012 is expect- ed to come in around 1.8 percent, revised downward from August, due to continuing high risk in Europe, the slower- than-expected U.S. recovery and the softening of growth in China and emerging markets, according to TD Bank, but trade show organizers see improvement on the horizon. The forecast for 2013 is for a continuation in the U.S. recovery and a “soft landing in emerging markets,” which should boost Canada’s gross domestic product to 2 percent. Of more concern for retailers is Ottawa’s decision to double the amount of duty-free goods Canadians are allowed to bring back from the U.S. Another compelling reason to bor- der shop is that prices on average in Canada are 13 percent higher than in the U.S. “The steady drain of Canadian shoppers heading south is weighing on retail sales in this country,” said a report from BMO Capital Markets. “For the first time in years, U.S. retail sales growth is running faster than in Canada.” For Canadian trade shows, the concern is a currency close to on par with the U.S., taking away any economic advan- tage. So far, it doesn’t appear to have had any impact, according On the to Alice Chee, manager of the runway at Mode Accessories Show, set for Toronto Jan. 27 to 29 at the DoubleTree Fashion Toronto Airport Hotel. Week. “Our numbers have been pretty steady at about 200 ex- hibitors and 3,600 buyers,” Chee said. “One thing we’ve noticed is a lot of independents are adding shoes to their prod- uct mix to compete with the chains. They also have to buy in shorter cycles to compete with fast-fashion stores like Zara.” The Ontario Fashion Exhibitors Profile Show, March 2 to 5 at the Toronto Congress Center, is expecting 180 exhibi- tors and 2,000 buyers, said show manager Michael Dargavel. A popular feature of the past two seasons that will continue is a group of 50 mannequins in the center aisle displaying the exhibitors’ hottest lines. The last show also featured motiva- tional speaker Bob Negen, who discussed how “to explode your sales,” said Dargavel, who is lining up another speaker for March. Toronto Fashion Week in March, now called World MasterCard Fashion Week, has more marketing muscle behind it now that it’s run by marketing powerhouse IMG, which operates several fashion weeks internationally. IMG took over from the Fashion Design Council of Canada last August, so there was little lead time to make any wholesale changes to the last fashion week in October, said Carolyn Quinn, director, fashion events for IMG Canada, who previ- ously worked at FDCC. “But with their expertise running other shows, they raised the standard of production, including better lighting, replacing bleachers with risers and chairs, and providing better working space for the media,” Quinn said. “We also had an on-site cafe that was catered by the Ritz Carlton.” The week attracted over 30,000 attendees and featured some 50 designers, including eight new Canadian design- ers promoted in an event called Mercedes-Benz Start Up. The event also attracted a lot of international press thanks to support from the Canadian Tourism Commission, which flew in media from South Korea, China, Japan, Brazil, France and India. After the warmest winter in recent memory, the fur industry hopes to bounce back at the North American Fur & Fashion Exhibition in Montreal, April 28 to 30 at Place Bonaventure. “The last show was challenging, which was reflected in attendance, which was down about six percent, while the number of exhibitors was down by 10 percent because a lot of Europeans knew how tough the market was,” said Alan Herscovici, vice president of the Fur Council of Canada, which organizes NAFFEM. “People are looking forward to a better season because November started off cold, the U.S. election is over and there’s an uptick in the economy.”
14 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2012 SECTION II
INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS 15-17, Bread & Butter Berlin, Airport Moskau, Karl-Marx Allee 34, Berlin, Berlin-Tempelhof, Platz der Luftbrücke Germany. Contact: Igedo Co. 5, Berlin, Germany. Contact: Bread & Tel.: +49-211-43-9601. Fax: Butter GmbH. Tel.: +49-30-200-0370. +49-211-439-6345. Web: igedo.com. Web: breadandbutter.com. 15-16, Capsule Men and Women, 15-17, Premium and Premium Men, Postbahnhof, Straße der Pariser Station-Berlin, Luckenwalder Strasse Kommune 8, Berlin. Contact: BPMW 4-6, Berlin, Germany. Contact: Agency. Tel.: 212-206-8310. Calendar Premium Exhibitions GmbH. E-mail: [email protected]. Listings are accurate as of press time, but attendees are encouraged to confirm dates and locations. Tel.: +49-30-629-0850. Web: capsuleshow.com. E-mail: [email protected]. 15-18, Mercedes-Benz Fashion JANUARY E-mail: [email protected]. Web: premiumexhibitions.com. Week Berlin, Strasse des 17. Juni at 6 Canada’s Bridal Show, Metro Web: exporivaschuh.it. 15-17, Seek, Kühlhaus, Luckenwalder Brandenburger Tor, Berlin. Contact: Toronto Convention Center, 12-16, Milano Moda Uomo, Milan. Strasse 3, Berlin, Germany. Contact: IMG, Invalidenstrasse 35, Berlin. Toronto. Tel.: 905-264-7000. Contact: Camera Nazionale della Seek at Premium Exhibitions GmbH. Tel.: +49-30-889-2289 0. Fax: 905-264-7300. Moda Italiana. Tel.: +39-02-777-1081. Tel.: +49-30-6290-8511. Web: mercedes-benzfashionweek.com. E-mail: lorie@canadasbridalshow. Fax: +39-02-777-108-5062. E-mail: [email protected]. 15-18, China Wedding Expo 2012, com. Web: canadasbridalshow.com. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: seekexhibitions.com. Shanghai World Expo Exhibition 8-11, Pitti Immagine Uomo n.83, Web: cameramoda.it. 15-17, Panorama Berlin, Flughafen & Convention Center. Tel.: Fortezza da Basso, Viale Strozzi, 1, 13-15, Top Drawer, Earls Court One, Berlin-Schönefeld SFX, Berlin, Germany. +86-21-6279-2828 or 6247-2387. Florence. Contact: Pitti Immagine. Warwick Road, London. Contact: Contact: Tel.: +490-302-0889-1340. Fax: +86-21-6386-6972. Tel.: +39-055-36-931. Raj Gill at Clarion Events. Fax +490-302-0889-1341. E-mail: [email protected]. Fax: +39-55-36-932. Tel.: +44-020-7370-8929. E-mail: offi[email protected]. Web: chinaweddingexpo.com.cn. E-mail: [email protected]. E-mail:[email protected]. Web: panorama-berlin.com. 16-18, Bright, Alte Münze Am Krögel E-mail: [email protected]. Web: pittimmagine.com. Web: topdrawer.co.uk. 15-17, Show & Order, Kraftwerk, 2, Berlin. Contact: Bright GmbH. Web: capsuleshow.com. 8-11, Pitti W n.11, Dogana, Via 14-17, Hong Kong Fashion Week Köpenicker Strasse 70, Berlin, Tel.: +49-69-6696-2157. 18-20, Total Wedding Show, Valfonda, 25, Florence. Contact: Pitti Fall-Winter, Hong Kong Convention and Germany. Contact: Verena Malta E-mail: [email protected]. International Center, Toronto. Tel.: Immagine. Tel.: +39-055-36-931. Exhibition Center, 1 Expo Drive, Wan +49-30-7072-6291. Web: brighttradeshow.com. 905-845-2644. Fax: 905-845-8050. Fax: +39-55-36-932. Chai, Hong Kong. Contact: Beatrice Lee Fax. +49-30-7072-6292. 16-20, Men’s Fashion Collections E-mail: [email protected]. E-mail: [email protected]. or Lily Kwong. Tel.: +852-2240-4323 E-mail: [email protected]. FW 2013, Paris. Contact: Fédération Web: totalweddingshow.com. Web: pittimmagine.com. or +852-2240-4061. Web: showandorder.de. Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à- 18-21, Bijorhca Paris, Porte de 9-12, Heimtextil, Messe Frankfurt Fax: +852-2824-0026. 15-17, Greenshowroom, Hotel Adlon Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs Versailles, Pavillon 5, Paris. For visitors: Exhibition Grounds, Frankfurt, Germany. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: Kempinski, Unter den Linden 77, Berlin, de Mode. Tel.: +331-42-66-64-44. +331-47-56-52-82. Exhibitors: Contact: Tel.: +(49 69) 75-750. hktdc.com./fair/hkfashionweekfw-en. Germany. Contact: Messe Frankfurt Fax: +331-42-66-94-63. +331-47-56-21-82. E-mail: info@ Fax: +(49 69) 7575-6609. 14-20, The Projekt Galerie Showroom, GmbH. Tel.: +49-711-7616-0866. E-mail: [email protected]. bijorhca.com. Web: bijorhca.com. E-mail: heimtextil@messefrankfurt. different locations throughout Berlin, E-mail: [email protected]. Web: modeaparis.com. 18-22, Maison & Objet, Paris Nord com. Web: messefrankfurt.com. Germany. Contact: Projekt Galerie Web: green-showroom.net. 17-19, Pitti Immagine Bimbo n.76, Villepinte, Paris. Contact: Maison 12-14, White Milano, Via Tortona Tel.: +49-30-6040-5703. 15-17, Ethical Fashion Show Berlin, Fortezza da Basso, Viale Strozzi, 1, & Objet/Philippe Bazin: Tel.: 27,54, Milan. Contact: White Milano. E-mail: [email protected]. fair-trade casual and streetwear, Ewerk, Florence. Contact: Pitti Immagine. Tel.: 212-564-0404. Fax: 703-229-4176. Tel.: +39-02-3459-2785. E-mail: Web: projektgalerie.net. Wilhelmstrasse 43, Berlin, Germany. +39-0553-6931. Fax: +39-553-6932. E-mail: [email protected]. [email protected]. Web: whiteshow.it. 15-16, Capsule, Postbahnhof, StraBe Contact: Messe Frankfurt GmbH. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: maison-objet.com. 12-15, Expo Riva Schuh, Quartiere der Pariser Kommune 8, Berlin, Tel.: +49-69-7575-5855. E-mail: Web: pittimmagine.com. 19-21, Interfilière Paris, Porte de Versailles, Fieristico, Riva Del Garda. Germany. Contact: BPMW Agency. [email protected]. 18-20, Capsule Men, Cité de la Mode, Pavillon 1, Paris. Contact: Laurence Tel.: +39-04-6457-0153. Tel.: 212-206-8310. E-mail: info@ Web: ethicalfashionshowberlin.com. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz, Paris. Contact: Nérée. Tel.: +331-47-56-32-32. Fax: +39-04-6457-0130. capsuleshow.com. Web: capsuleshow.com. 15-17, The Gallery Berlin, Café BPMW Agency. Tel.: 212-206-8310. Fax: +331-47-56-32-99.
PARIS
THE INTERNATIONAL FINE & FASHION JEWELLERY SHOW
FROM FRIDAY 18TH TO MONDAY 21ST JANUARY 2013 PARIS PORTE DE VERSAILLES I PAVILION 5 I WWW.BIJORHCA.COM WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2012 15 WWD.COM
Koto-ku, Tokyo. E-mail: iff-12@ Tel.: +39-24-9971. E-mail: macef@ Olympia, Hammersmith Road, London, [email protected]. senken.co.jp. Web: senken-ex.com./iff_en. fieramilano.it or macef_eventi@ W14 8UX. Contact: Carole Hunter Web: bubblelondon.com. 23-26, International Jewelry Tokyo, fieramilano.it. Web: macef.it. Email: [email protected]. 27-29, Mode Accessories Show, Tokyo Big Sight, 3-11-1 Ariake, Koto-ku, 24-27, MACEF/Bijoux, Fieramilano, Web: theledgeshow.com. Double Tree by Hilton, Tokyo. E-mail: [email protected]. Strada Statale del Sempione, 28, 26-28, InNaTex (international trade fair Toronto Airport Hotel. Contact: Web: ijt.jp/en. 20017 Rho, Milan. Contact: Macef for sustainable textiles), ardek-Center Alice Chee. Tel.: 416-510-0114. 23-27, Vintage Selection n.21, Milano. Tel.: +39-024-997 1. Rhein-Main, Robert-Bosch-Straße 5-7, Fax: 416-510-0165. E-mail: Stazione Leopolda, Viale Fratelli Fax: +39-02-4997-6591. E-mail: Hofheim, Germany. Contact: Muveo. [email protected]. Rosselli, 5, Florence. Contact: Pitti bijoux@fieramilano.it or macef@ Tel.: +49-06-1227-2101. Web: mode-accessories.com. Immagine. Tel.: +39-0553-6931. fieramilano.it. Web: macef.it/bijoux. Fax: +49-06-1227-2105. 31-Feb. 2, Gallery International Fax: +39-55-369-3200. 25-27, The Brandery, Fira Barcelona- Web: innatex.muveo.de. Fashion Fair CPH, Forum Copenhagen, E-mail: [email protected]. Montjuïc, Barcelona. Contact: Gloria 26-29, AltaRomaAltaModa, S. Copenhagen. Contact: Christian Web: pittimmagine.com. Dilluvio. Tel.: +34-93-233-2172. Spirito in Sassia, Tempio di Adriano, Gregersen. Tel.: +45-4033-0930. E-mail: 23-28, 080 Barcelona Fashion,Disseny E-mail: gdilluvio@firabcn.es. Rome. Tel.: +39-06-678-1313. [email protected]. Web: gallery.dk/. DHUB, Barcelona. Contact: C/Provença Web: thebrandery.com. Fax: +39-06-6920-0303. 31-Feb. 2, CPH Vision, 339. Tel.: +34-93-551-5452. 25-27, LondonEdge Original & E-mail: uffi[email protected]. Scandinavian design and streetwear, Fax: +34-93-567-1496. E-mail: LondonEdge Fashion, National Hall, Web: altaroma.it. Lokomotivvaerkstedet, Building OBV [email protected]. Olympia, Hammersmith Road, London, 27-28, Bubble London, Business 037, Otto Busses Vej 5A 2450, Web: 080barcelonafashion.com. W14 8UX. Contact: Carole Hunter Design Centre, 52 Upper Street, Copenhagen, Denmark. 24-27, MACEF, Fieramilano, Strada E-mail: carole.hunter@londonedge. Islington, London, N1 OQH. Contact: Exhibition Professionals. Statale del Sempione, 28 20017 com. Web: londonedge.com. Contact: Raquel Monroy. Tel.: +45-39-64-8586. The Japan Creation show. Rho, Milan. Contact: Macef Milano. 25-27, The Ledge, The National Hall, Tel: +44-014-8484-6069. E-mail: {Continued on page 16}
E-mail: [email protected]. Web: interfiliere.com/paris/. 19-21, Salon International de la Lingerie, Porte de Versailles, Pavillon 1, Paris. Contact: Séverine Marchesi. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: lingerie-paris.com. 19-21, Tranoï Homme, Palais de la Bourse, Paris. Contact: Céline Gomes. Tel.: +331-53-01-84-90 or +336-19-90-07-12. Fax: +331-42-71-07-03. E-mail: celine@ celinegomes.com. or [email protected]. Web: tranoi.com. 19-21, Tranoï Preview, Carrousel du Louvre, Paris. Céline Gomes. Tel.: +331-53-01-84-90 or +336-19-90-07-12. Fax: +331-42-71-07-03. E-mail: celine@ celinegomes.com. or [email protected]. Also: [email protected]. Web: tranoi.com/preview. 19-22, Vendôme Luxury Preview, Hôtel © Olivier Roller de Noailles, 221 Rue Saint Honoré, Paris. Contact: Studio XXb. Tel.: +33-01-42-86-98-28. Fax: +33-01-42-86-98-27. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: xxb.fr. 19-22, Who’s Next Paris, Parc des Expositions, Porte de Versailles, Paris. Contact: WSN Developpement. Tel.: +331-40-13-74-74. Fax: +331-40-13-74-84. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: whosnext.com. 19-24, T-GOLD, Fiera di Vicenza, via dell’Oreficeria, 16, 36100, Vicenza. Tel.: +39-04-4496-9111. Fax: +39-04-4496-9000. E-mail: info@ vicenzafiera.it. Web: vicenzaorospring.it or vicenzaoro.org. Also: vicenzafiera.it. 19-24, Vicenzaoro Winter, Fiera di Vicenza, via dell’Oreficeria, 16, 36100 Vicenza. Tel.: +39-04-4496-9111. Fax: +39-04-4496-9000. E-mail: info@ vicenzafiera.it. Web: vicenzaorospring. it or vicenzaoro.org; vicenzafiera.it. 20-21, Modefabriek, Amsterdam RAI, Europaplein 22, Amsterdam. Contact: Modefabriek BV. Tel.: +31-20-442-1960. Fax: +31-20-442-1961. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: modefabriek.nl. 21-24, Paris Haute Couture Collections SS 2013, Paris. Contact: Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à- Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode. Tel.: +331-42-66-64-44. Fax: +331-42-66-94-63. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: modeaparis.com. 22-23, Première Brasil SS14, Center ExpoNorte, Rua José Bernardo Pinto, 333 Vila Guilherme, São Paolo. Tel.: +55-21-3035-3197. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: premierebrasil.com. 23-25, Pitti Immagine Filati n.72, Fortezza da Basso, Viale Strozzi, 1, Florence. Contact: Pitti Immagine. Tel.: +39-0553-6931. Fax: +39-553-6932. E-mail: [email protected]. 12-14 Feb. 2013 / spring summer 14 / The World’s Premier Fabric Show™ Web: pittimmagine.com. Parc d’Expositions Paris-Nord Villepinte France / T. 1 [646] 351-1942 / [email protected] 23-25, JFW International Fashion Fair, www.premierevision.com Tokyo Big Sight, 3-11-1 Ariake, 16 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2012 SECTION II
INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS Tel.: +39-02-4801-5026. Fax: +39-02-481-534. E-mail: [email protected]. {Continued from page 15} Centre, 2 Clarendon Street, Web: intertex-milano.it. Fax: +45-39-64-8587. Southbank, Melbourne, Victoria, 6-8, Milano Unica, Fieramilano City, Web: cphvision.com. Australia. Contact: Reed Exhibitions. Portello, Milan. Contact: Segreteria 31-Feb. 3, Copenhagen International Tel.: +61-29-422-8686. Organizzativa S.I.TEX SpA. Fashion Fair, or CIFF, Bella Center, Web: reedgiftfairs.com.au. Tel.: +39-02-6610-1105. Center Boulevard 5, Copenhagen. 3-5, Can-Am Western Apparel Trade Fax: +39-02-6611-1335. Contact: Johanna Leitch. Tel.: Show, Spruce Meadows Equiplex, E-mail: [email protected]. +45-5276-3658. E-mail: johanna@ Calgary, Alberta. Tel.: 403-995-1003. Web: milanounica.it. bellacenter.dk. Web: ciff.dk E-mail: [email protected]. 6-8, Ready to Show, Palazzo Delle 31-Feb. 4, Mercedes-Benz Madrid Web: canammarket.ca. Stelline, Corso magenta 61, 20123, Fashion Week, Feria de Madrid, 3-6, ISPO, New Munich Trade Fair Milan. Contact: Dott. Georges Papa. Madrid. Contact: Leonor Pérez Pita/ Center, Munich. Contact: Messe Tel.: +39-02-4801-5026. IFEMA. Tel.: +34-91-722-5084. München. Tel.: +49-89-9491-1388. Fax: +39-02-481-534. Milano Unica Shanghai E-mail: [email protected]. Web: Fax: +49-89-9491-1389. E-mail: [email protected]. mercedesbenzfashionweekmadrid.com. Web: ispo.com. Web: readytoshow.it. Tel.: +44-207-728-3512. E-mail: 12-14, Expofil AW14-15, Parc des 4-7, Centre International de Mode de 6-8, Tokyo International Gift Show, [email protected]. Expositions, Hall 5, Paris-Nord FEBRUARY Montréal (CIMM) Montreal Fashion Tokyo Big Sight, 3-11-1 Ariake, Web: purelondon.com. Villepinte, Paris. Contact: Thierry 1-3, Immagine Italia & Co., Fortezza da Mart, 555 Chabanel. Contact: Eyal Koto-ku, Tokyo. E-mail: d-haga@ 10-12, Scoop International, Saatchi Langlais. Tel.: 646-351-1942. Fax: Basso, Florence. Contact: Segreteria Cohen. Tel.: 514-381-5921. giftshow.co.jp. Web: giftshow.co.jp/ Gallery, Duke of York HQ, King’s Road, 646-213-7373. E-mail: t.langlais@ Corso Silvano Fedi, 36, 51100 Pistoia. E-mail: [email protected]. english/75tigs. London, SW3 4RY. Contact: Karen premierevision.com. Web: expofil.com. Tel.: +39-05-7399-1483. Web: 555chabanel.com. 6-10, FX Fashion Exchange, 1951 Radley. Tel.: +44-079-4740-8643 12-14, Indigo Paris Fashion Edition, Fax: +39-05-7399-1470. 4-7, Montreal Fashion Week, The Glen Drive, Rosedale Hotel, 838 E-mail: [email protected]. Hall 5, Parc des Expositions, Paris- E-mail: [email protected]. Arsenal, 2020 William, Montreal. Hamilton Street, Yaletown Fashion Web: scoop-international.com. Nord Villepinte, Paris. Contact: Thierry Web: immagineitalia.org. Contact: Sophie Des Marais. District & other locations, Vancouver. 12-13, Stitch, Business Design Langlais. Tel.: 646-351-1942. 1-4, The Gallery Düsseldorf (women’s Tel.: 514-234-4736. 604-929-8995. E-mail: info@ Centre, 52 Upper Street, Islington, Fax: 646-213-7373. E-mail: wear), Botschaft, Cecilienallee 5, E-mail: [email protected]. fxfashionexchange.com. London, N1 OQH. Contact: Jennagh [email protected]. Düsseldorf. Contact: Igedo Co. Web: sensationmode.com. Web: fxfashionexchange.com. Delaney. Tel.: +44-207-240-4311. Web: indigo-salon.com. Tel.: +49-21-1439-601. Fax: 5-7, Munich Fabric Start, MOC and 8-10, SIMM (Salón Internacional E-mail: [email protected]. 12-14, Zoom by Fatex, Parc des +49-21-1439-6345. Web: igedo.com. Zenith Halle, Lilienthalallee 40 and 29, de Moda de Madrid), Madrid Web: stitchmenswear.com. Expositions, Paris-Nord Villepinte, 2-5, Premium Order Düsseldorf, Munich. Contact: Munichfabricstart. International Fashion Fair, Juan 12-14, Le Cuir à Paris, Parc des Paris. Contact: Frédéric Pellerin. Hammer Hallen, Hammer Str. 27, Tel.: +49-89-452-2470. Carlos I fairgrounds, Madrid. Contact: Expositions, Hall 4, Paris-Nord Tel.: +33-1-40-22-63-19. Düsseldorf. Premium Exhibitions Fax: +49-89-4522-4722. Francesco Malatesta/IFEMA. Villepinte, Paris. Contact: Juliette Fax: +33-1-40-22-63-20. GmbH. Tel.: +49-30-6290-8578. Web: munichfabricstart.com. Tel.: +34-91-722-5174. E-mail: Sebille. Tel.: +33-1-43-59-89-44. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: remiumexhibitions.com. 6-7, MICO Fieramilanocity, Via [email protected]. Web: simm.ifema.es. Fax: +33-1-43-59-30-02. Web: zoombyfatex.com. 2-5, Supreme by Munich Fashion Colleoni 20, Milan. Contact: Segreteria 10-11, Margin London, The Music E-mail: [email protected]. 12-14, ModAmont, Parc des Company, Bennigsen Platz 1, Anteprima. Tel.: +39-02-880-7711. Room, 26 South Molton Lane, Web: lecuiraparis.com. Expositions, Hall 3, Paris-Nord Düsseldorf. Contact: Munichfashion Fax: +39-02-860-032. London, W1K 5LF. Contact: Odysseas 12-14, Première Vision SS14, Parc Villepinte, Paris. Contact: Aimeline Co. Tel.: +49-81-0699-40330. E-mail: anteprima@anteprima-fair. Constantine. Tel.: +44-077-1033-0805. des Expositions, Paris-Nord Villepinte, Marsura. Tel.: +33-1-70-38-70-20. Fax: +49-81-0699-40337. com. Web: anteprima-fair.com. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: margin.tv. Paris. Contact: Thierry Langlais. Tel.: Fax: +33-1-70-38-70-21. Web: munichfashioncompany.com. 6-8, Interex, Palazzo Delle Stelline, 10-12, Pure London, Grand Hall, 646-351-1942. Fax: 646-213-7373. E-mail: [email protected]. 2-5, The Melbourne Gift Trade Fair, Corso magenta 61, 20123, Milan. Olympia, Kensington, London. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: modamont.com. Melbourne Convention & Exhibition Contact: Dott. Georges Papa. Contact: Sarah Lawrence. Web: premierevision.com. 12-14, Rooms, Yoyogi National
Creative textile & surface design show
I NEW YORK I PARIS I FASHION EDITION, Metropolitan Pavilion I FASHION EDITION, Paris Nord Villepinte I 15 & 16 January 2013 I 12 -14 February 2013 I 9 & 10 April 2013 indigo-salon.com WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2012 17 WWD.COM
Stadium First Gymnasium, 2-1-1 E-mail: [email protected]. Sydney Convention & Exhibition 1-4, Paris Sur Mode Atelier, Jardin International Trade Promotion Co. Jinnan, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. E-mail: Web: playtimetokyo.com. Centre, Darling Harbour, Sydney, NSW des Tuileries, Terrasse des Feuillants, Tel.: +86-21-6353-9977. [email protected]. Web: roomsroom.com. 19-21, Tex-Style, Poznan fairgrounds, Australia. Contact: Reed Exhibitions. Paris. Contact: WSN Developpement. Web: ecf.gov.cn/en. 12-15, Texworld, Le Bourget, Paris. Glogowska St 14, Poznan, Poland. Tel.: +61-2-9422-8686. Tel.: +33-1-40-13-74-74. 2-4, Mido, Fieramilano, Strada Statale Tel.: +33-1-55-26-89-89. Fax: Contact: Poznan International Fair Web: reedgiftfairs.com.au. Fax: +33-1-40-13-74-84. E-mail: del Sempione, 28, 20017 Rho, +33-1-40-35-09-00. E-mail: Ltd. Tel.: +48-61-869-2000. 24-25, ABC Salon, MOC Center, [email protected]. Milan. Contact: Mido. Tel.: +39-02- [email protected]. Fax: +48-61-869-2999. E-mail: Lilienthalallee 40, Munich. Web: parissurmodeatelier.com. 3267-3673. Fax: +39-02-324-233. Web: texworld.messefrankfurt.com. [email protected]. Web: fashion.mtp.pl. Contact: Messe München. 1-4, Atmosphere, Paris. Contact: E-mail: [email protected]. Web: mido. 12-15, Apparel Sourcing Paris, 20-26, Milano Moda Donna, Milan. Tel.: +49-89-3235-3185. WSN Developpement. com. Le Bourget, Paris. Contact: Camera Nazionale della Moda Fax: +49-89-3235-3197. Tel.: +33-1-40-13-74-74. 2-5, Ontario Fashion Exhibitors Profile Tel.: +33-1-55-26-89-89. Italiana. Tel.: +39-02-777-1081. Web: abc-salon.de. Fax: +33-1-40-13-74-84. Show, Toronto Congress Center, Fax: +33-1-40-35-09-00. Fax: +39-02-777-108-5062. 26-March 1, CPM Collection Premiere E-mail: [email protected]. Toronto. Contact: Serge Micheli. Tel.: E-mail: apparelsourcing@france. E-mail: [email protected]. Moscow, Expocentre Fairgrounds, Web: atmospheres-paris.com. 416-596-2401. Fax: 416-596-1808. messefrankfurt.com. Web: Web: cameramoda.it. Krasnopresenskaya nab.,14, Moscow. 1-4, Premiere Classe, Jardin des E-mail: info@profileshow.ca. apparelsourcing.messefrankfurt.com. 22-24, The National Wedding Shows, Contact: Christian Kasch. Tuileries, Terrasse des Feuillants, Web: profileshow.ca. 15-18, Premium Order Munich, Zenith Olympia, England. Contact: Alex Tel.: +49-211-4396-444. Paris. Contact: WSN Developpement. 3-4, Budapest International Leather Area, Lilienthalallee 29, Munich. Butler. Tel: +44-207-772-8319. E-mail: [email protected]. Tel.: +33-1-40-13-74-70. and Shoe Week, SYMA Event Center, Premium Exhibitions GmbH. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: cpm-moscow.com. Fax: +33-1-40-13-74-80. Budapest XIV, Hungary. Contact: Tel.: +49-30-6290-8578. Web: nationalweddingshow.co.uk. 26-March 6, Women’s Ready-to-Wear E-mail: [email protected]. BCE Fair. Tel.: +36-12-518-987. Web: premiumexhibitions.com. 22-25, Inhorgenta, Messe Munich Fall 2013, Paris. Contact: Web: premiere-classe-tuileries.com. Fax: +36-12-515-887. E-mail: i 15-19, London Fashion Week, International Fair Center, Munich. Fédération Française de la Couture, 1-4, The Box, Paris. Contact: [email protected]. Web: bcefair.hu. Somerset House, The Strand, London. Contact: Inhorgenta. du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers WSN Developpement. 3-5, Autumn Gift & Homeware Fair, Contact: Shanne Oshea. Tel.: Tel.: +49-89-9491-1398. et des Créateurs de Mode. Tel.: +33-1-40-13-74-70. ASB Showgrounds, Greenlane, +44-207-759 1977. E-mail: Shanne. Fax: +49-89-9491-1399. Tel.: +33-1-42-66-64-44. Fax: +33-1-40-13-74-80. Auckland, New Zealand. Contact: XPO [email protected]. Web: inhorgenta.com. Fax: +33-1-42-66-94-63. E-mail: [email protected]. Exhibitions Ltd. Tel.: +64-9-976-8300. Web: londonfashionweek.co.uk. 23-25, MIPAP, Fieramilanocity, MICO E-mail: [email protected]. Web: thebox-paris.com. Web: giftfairs.co.nz. 16-18, In Fashion Munich, - Ala Nord Via Gattamelata, Gate 15, Web: modeaparis.com. 1-4, Vendôme Luxury Tradeshow, Hôtel 3-6, MICAM, Fieramilano, Strada Praterinsel, Praterinsel 3-4, Munich. Milan. Contact: MIPAP. Le Meurice, 6 Rue de Castiglione; Statale del Sempione, 28, 20017 Contact: In Fashion Munich. Tel.: +39-02-499-71. MARCH Hôtel d’Evreux, 19 Place Vendôme, Rho, Milan. Contact: Segreteria Tel.: +49-89-1270-0700. E-mail: milanopretaporter@ 1-3, Tracht and Country, Messezentrum and Park Hyatt Paris Vendôme, 5 Rue Organizzativa the MICAM. Fax: +49-89-2020-4446. fieramilano.it. Web: mipap.it. Salzburg, Salzburg, Austria. Contact: de la Paix, Paris. Contact: Studio XXb. Tel.: +39-02-43-82-91. Web: in-fashion-munich.de. 23–25, Toronto Shoe Show, Toronto Reed Exhibitions Messe Salzburg Tel.: +33-1-42-86-98-28. Fax: +39-02-4382-9233. 17-19, Moda, National Exhibition Congress Center & Radisson Suite GmbH. Tel.: +43-662-4477-2243. Fax: +33-1-42-86-98-27. E-mail: [email protected]. Center, Birmingham, England. Hotel, Toronto. Tel.: 416-444-0005. Fax: +43-662-4477-2287. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: xxb.fr. Web: micamonline.com. Contact: Caroline Mackinnon. Fax 416-391-2928. E-mail: E-mail: [email protected]. 1-4, Designers & Agents Paris, Espace 3-6, Mifur, Fieramilano, Strada Statale Tel.: +44-014-8484-8313. [email protected]. Web: fj.trachtsalzburg.at. 5 Bis, 5 Bis Rue Froissart, Paris. del Sempione, 28, 20017 Rho, E-mail: [email protected]. Web: torontoshoeshow.com. 1-3, Capsule Women, Cité de la Mode, Contact: Cédric Galonské, Dovie Milan. Contact: Ufficio Segreteria Web: moda-uk.co.uk. 23-26, Home & Giving Fair, Sydney 34 Quai d’Austerlitz, Paris. Contact: Mamikunian/DM Media. Tel.: Mifur. Tel.: +39-02-7600-3315. 19-21, Interstyle, Pacifico Yokohama, Showground, Sydney Olympic Park, BPMW Agency. Tel.: 212-206-8310. 212-302-9575. Fax: 212-302-9576. Fax: +39-02-7602-2024. E-mail: 1-1-1 Minato Mirai, Nishi-ku, Yokohama. 1 Showground Road, Homebush Bay, E-mail: [email protected]. E-mail: [email protected]. [email protected]. Web: mifur.com. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: Sydney, NSW Australia. Contact: Web: capsuleshow.com. Web: designersandagents.com. 3-6, Mipel, Fieramilano City, interstyle.jp/english/english.html. The Australian Gift & Homewares 1-3, NEC. Contact: Alex Butler. 1-5, The 23rd East China Fair, Portello, Milan. Contact: Segreteria 19-21, Playtime Tokyo, Belle Association. Tel.: +61-2-9763-3222. Tel: +44-207-772-8319 E-mail: Shanghai New International Expo Organizzativa S.I.TEX S.p.A. Salle Shibuya Garden, 16-17 Web: homeandgiving.com. [email protected]. Center, 2345 Longyang Road, Tel.: +39-02-6610-1105. Nanpeidaicho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. 23-27, The Sydney Gift Trade Fair, Web: nationalweddingshow.co.uk. Pudong Shanghai, Shanghai. Contact: {Continued on page 18} 18 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2012 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia SECTION II WWD.COM
INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS
{Continued from page 17} Shanghai. Contact: Well Link Consultants Fax: +39-02-6611-1335. E-mail: Ltd. Tel.: +85-22-824-8581. [email protected]. Web: milanounica.it. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: 4-6, China Shanghai International Hosiery spinexpo.com/shanghai/index.php. Purchasing Expo, Shanghai World 12-14, The 94th China International Expo Exhibition & Convention Center, Trade Fair for Mode Underwear & Home Shanghai. Tel.: +86-21-5445-1978. Textiles, Shanghai New International Fax: +86-21-5445-1978. Expo Center, 2345 Long Yang Road, E-mail: [email protected] or Pudong Area, Shanghai. Contact: [email protected]. Amy Li. E-mail: [email protected] Tel.: Web: chpe.com.cn/en. +86-10-6853-5419. Web: ckcf.cn. 4-6, China Shanghai International 12-14, Mode Shanghai, Shanghai Fashion Production Exhibition, New International Expo Center, Shanghai World Expo Exhibition Shanghai. Contact: Fashion World & Convention Center, Shanghai. Wide. E-mail: info@modeshanghai. Contact: Cindy Yu. net. Web: modeshanghai.net. Tel.: +86-21-5445-1970. 13-15, Interstoff Asia Essential, Hong 2-6-5 Hanakawado, Taito-ku, Tokyo. E-mail: makeup-in-saopaulo.com. E-mail: [email protected]. E-mail: [email protected]. Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: makeup-in-saopaulo.com/ Web: beautyworldjapan.com/english. Web: ctfe.com.cn/en. Contact: Cindy Chee, Trade Fair Web: isf-web.jp/english. english/concept. 18-22, Vicenzaoro Spring, Fiera di 4-6, China Shanghai Textiles, Fabrics Manager, Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd., 26-29, China International 10-13, China International Textile & Vicenza, via dell’Oreficeria, 16, 36100, & Accessories Exhibition, Shanghai Hong Kong. Tel.: +85-2-2238-9917. Clothing and Accessories Fair, Clothing Industry Fair, Guangdong Vicenza. Tel.: +39-04-4496-9111. World Expo Exhibition & Convention Fax: +85-2-2598-8771. E-mail: New China International Modern International Exhibition Fax: +39-04-4496-9000. Center, 1099 Guozhan Road, [email protected]. Exhibition Center, Beijing. Center, Guangdong, China. E-mail: info@vicenzafiera.it. Web: Shanghai. Contact: Cindy Yu. com. or messefrankfurt.com.hk. Tel.: +86-10-6505-0546 or 6505-0617. Tel.: +85-2-2763-9011. vicenzaorospring.it or vicenzaoro.org; Mobile: +86-136-6188-3350. 13-15, GDS International Shoe and Web: biztradeshows.com/cwtc. E-mail: [email protected]. vicenzafiera.it. Tel.: +86-21-5445-1970. Fax: Accessories Fair, Messe Düsseldorf, 26-29, Chic Beijing, New China Web: chinaexhibition.com. 22-23, Denim by Première Vision +86-21-5445-1218. E-mail: cindy. Düsseldorf. Contact: Messe International Exhibition Center, 13-16, Oroarezzo, Via Lazzaro AW 14/15, Halle Freyssinet, Paris. [email protected]. Düsseldorf. Tel.: +49-211-456-0900. Beijing. Contact: Beijing Convention Spallanzani, 23, 52100, Arezzo. Contact: Thierry Langlais. Tel.: Web: shssny.com/en. Web: gds-online.de. & Exhibition Co., China World Trade Tel.: +39-05-75-93-61. 646-351-1942. Fax: 646-213-7373. 6-7, Osaka International Gift Show, 14-21, FX Fashion Exchange, 1951 Center Co. Tel.: +86-10-6505-3207. Fax: +39-05-75-38-30-28. E-mail: [email protected]. Osaka Merchandise Mart, 1-7-31 Glen Drive, Rosedale Hotel, 838 Fax: +86-10-6505-3260. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: denimbypremierevision.com. Otemae, Chuo-ku, Osaka. E-mail: Hamilton Street, Yaletown Fashion Web: chiconline.com.cn. Web: oroarezzo.it. 22-24, International Jewellery Fair [email protected]. District & other locations, Vancouver. 27-29, Intertextile Beijing Apparel 21-23, Luggage, Leathergoods, Kobe, Kobe International Exhibition Web: giftshow.co.jp/english/49oigs/ Tel.: (604) 929-8995. E-mail: Fabrics, China International Exhibition Handbags, Apparel, Shoes & Hall, 6-11-1 Minatojima Nakamachi, 6-7, Textile Forum, The Music Room, [email protected]. Center, Beijing. Contact: Wilmet Shea, Accessories Show, Toronto Congress Chuo-ku, Kobe. E-mail: ijk-eng@ 26 South Molton Lane, London. Web: fxfashionexchange.com. Group Manager, Trade Fairs, Messe Center, Toronto. Tel.: 866-872-2420. reedexpo.co.jp. Web: ijk-fair.jp/en. Contact: Linda Laderman. 17-18, JAA Brisbane Jewellery Fair, Frankfurt (HK) Ltd., Hong Kong. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: llha.ca. Tel.: +44-207-843-9496. Brisbane Convention & Exhibition Tel.: +85-2-2238 9967. Fax: 23-25, JITAC European Textile Fair, JUNE E-mail: [email protected]. Centre, Merivale Street, South Bank, +85-2-2598 8771. E-mail: wilmet. Tokyo International Forum, 3-5-1 8-10, Hair Expo Australia, Sydney Web: textileforum.co.uk Brisbane, Queensland, Australia. [email protected]. Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. Convention & Exhibition Centre, Darling 7-10, Quartiere Fieristico, Bologna. Contact: Expertise Events. Web: messefrankfurt.com.hk. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: jitac.jp/en. Harbour, Sydney. Contact: Hair Expo Tel.: +39-02-796-420. Tel.: +61-2-9452-7575. 27-29, Plug In, Shibuya Hikarie, 27-30, China Sourcing Fair: Garments Australia. Tel.: +61-2-9422-2859. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: australianjewelleryfair.com.au. 2-21-1 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. and Textiles, Asia World Expo, Hong Web: hairexpoaustralia.com. Web: cosmoprof.com. 17-20, Centre International de Mode E-mail: [email protected]. Kong. Tel.: +85-2-8199-7308. 10-12, Fukuoka International Beauty 7-11, Trends the Apparel Show, de Montréal (CIMM) Montreal Fashion Web: senken-ex.com/plugin. E-mail: [email protected]. Show, Marine Messe Fukuoka, 7-1 Edmonton Expo Centre, 7515-118 Mart, 555 Chabanel. Contact: Eyal 27-29, Yarn Expo Spring, National Web: globalsources.com/. Okihama Machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka. Avenue, Edmonton. Tel.: Cohen. Tel.: 514-381-5921. Agriculture Exhibition Center, 27-30, China Sourcing Fair: Fashion E-mail: [email protected]. 780-455-1881. Fax: 780-455-3969. E-mail: [email protected]. Dongsanhuan Beilu No. 16 of and Accessories, Asia World Expo, Web: giftshow.co.jp/english/2fibs. Web: trendsapparel.com. E-mail: Web: 555chabanel.com. Chaoyang District, Beijing. Contact: Hong Kong. Tel.: +85-2-8199-7308. 10-12, Fukuoka International Gift [email protected]. 18-23, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Carrie Chan. Tel.: +85-2-2238-9991. E-mail: [email protected]. Show, Marine Messe Fukuoka, 7-1 8-11, Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna, Tokyo, Shibuya Hikarie (main venue), Fax: +85-2-2598-8771. E-mail: Web: globalsources.com. Okihama Machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka. Quartiere Fieristico, Bologna. Tel.: 2-21-1 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. [email protected]. 27-30, Garments & Textiles China E-mail: [email protected]. +39-02-796-420. E-mail: sogecos@ E-mail: [email protected]. com. Web: messefrankfurt.com.hk/ Sourcing Fair, AsiaWorld-Expo, Hong Web: giftshow.co.jp/english/9figs. cosmoprof.it. Web: cosmoprof.com. Web: tokyo-mbfashionweek.com./en. fair_homepage. Kong. Tel.: +85-2-8199-7308. 10-13, Shanghai Tex 2013, Shanghai 9-10, Berliner Fahrrad Shau, 18-24, L’Oréal Melbourne Fashion Fax: +85-2-8199-7628. E-mail: visit@ New International Expo Center, 2345 Station-Berlin, Luckenwalder Str. Festival Autumn/Winter 2013, APRIL chinasourcingfair.com. Web: tradeshow. Longyang Road, Shanghai. Contact: 4-6, Berlin, Germany. Contact: various venues around Melbourne, 3-5, BolognaFiere, Bologna. globalsources.com/tradeshow. Li Xiaoqiang or Dai Xianjun. Tel.: +49-30-20-88 9-1313. Victoria, Australia. Contact: L’Oréal Contact: Segreteria Lineapelle. 28-30, NAFFEM - North American Tel.: +86-21-6279-2828. Fax: +49-30-20-88-91-311. Melbourne Fashion Festival office. Tel.: +39-02-880-7711. Fur & Fashion Exhibition, Place E-mail: [email protected]. E-mail: [email protected]. Tel.: +61-3-9654-5599. Fax: +39-02-860-032. Bonaventure, Montreal. Contact: Web: expo.data.people.com. Web: berlinerfahrradschau.de. Web: lmff.com.au. E-mail: [email protected]. Teresa Eloy. Tel.: 514-844-1945. 11-13, TechTextil (textile trade fair), 10-12, Fashion Exposed Spring- 19-24, Vancouver Fashion Week, Web: lineapelle-fair.com. Fax: 514-844-8593. E-mail: teloy@ Messe Frankfurt, Ludwig-Erhard- Summer 2013-2014, Sydney various locations. Tel.: 778-773-8451. 6-7, Sydney Bridal Expo (consumer), furcouncil.com. Web: naffem.com. Anlage 1, Frankfurt. Contact: Convention & Exhibition Centre, Darling E-mail: [email protected]. Sydney Convention & Exhibition Centre 30-May 5, Barcelona Bridal Week, Tel.: +49-69-75-75-0. Harbour, Sydney, NSW, Australia. Web: vanfashionweek.com. (Hall 1), Darling Harbour, Sydney. Gran Via Fira de Barcelona, Pavilion Fax: +49-69-75-75-64-33. Contact: Australian Exhibitions & 20-21, Filo, Palazzo Delle Stelline, Contact: Graham Stroud Events & 8, Barcelona. Contact: Xavier E-mail: [email protected]. Conferences. Tel.: +61-3-8672-1200. Corso magenta 61, 20123, Milan. Marketing. Tel.: +61-2-9362-0278. Monfort. Tel.: +34-93-209-3639 Web: messefrankfurt.com. Web: fashionexposed.com. Tel.: +39-01-584-8271. Web: sydneybridalexpo.com.au. or +34-93-201-1230. 11-13, Avantex, Messe Frankfurt, 10-12, The Bags & Accessories Fair, E-mail: info@filo.it. Web: filo.it. 8-12, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Fax: +34-93-202-1378. E-mail: Ludwig-Erhard-Anlage 1, Frankfurt. Sydney Convention & Exhibition 21-22, POS (shoe trade fair), Week Australia Spring-Summer [email protected]. Contact: Tel.: +49-69-75-75-0. Centre, Darling Harbour, Sydney, Zeppelinstrasse 11, Pirmasens, 2013-2014, Carriageworks, 245 Web: barcelonabridalweek.com. Fax: +49-69-75-75-64-33. NSW. Contact: Australian Exhibitions Germany. Contact: ISC Germany. Wilson Street, Eveleigh NSW 2015, E-mail: [email protected]. & Conferences. Tel.: +61-3-8672-1200. Tel.: +49-6331-1453-3417. Australia. Contact: IMG Fashion Asia MAY Web: messefrankfurt.com. Web: bagsaccessories.com.au. Fax: +49-6331-1453-3430. Pacific. Tel.: +61-2-9285-8000. 3-5, Noviaespana International Show, 16-18, Winter Gift & Homeware Fair, 10-12, The Australian Shoe Fair, Web: point-of-shoes.com. Web: australia.mbfashionweek.com. Gran Via Fira de Barcelona, Pavilion CBS Canterbury Arena, Addington Sydney Convention & Exhibition 24-26, Moda Made in Italy, MOC 8-12, Premiere Spring-Summer 8, Barcelona. Contact: Lourdes Sola. Christchurch, New Zealand. Contact: Centre, Darling Harbour, Sydney, Center, Lilienthalallee 40, Munich. 2013-2104, Carriageworks, 245 Tel.: +34-93-209-3639 or XPO Exhibitions. Tel.: +64-9-976-8300. NSW. Contact: Australian Exhibitions Contact: Tel.: +39-02-438-291. Wilson Street, Eveleigh NSW 2015, +34-93-201-1230. Fax: Web: giftfairs.co.nz. & Conferences. Tel.: +61-3-8672-1200. Fax: +39-02-4800-5833. Australia. Contact: Australian +34-93-202-1378. E-mail: lsola@ 20-21, Makeup in Paris, Carrousel du Web: australianshoefair.com. E-mail: [email protected]. Exhibitions & Conferences. Tel.: +61- barcelonabridalweek.com. Louvre, Paris. Contact: Beauteam. 11-21, FX Fashion Exchange, 1951 Web: ancionline.com. 3-8672-1200. Web: premiere.net.au. Web: barcelonabridalweek.com. Tel.: +33-1-42-73-96-61. Glen Drive, Rosedale Hotel, 838 25-27, APLF Fashion Access, Hong 9-14, Salone Internazionale del Mobile 8-9, Premium Textile Japan, E-mail: contact@makeup-in-paris. Hamilton Street, Yaletown Fashion Kong Convention & Exhibition Center. Milano, S.S. 33 del Sempione, 28, Tokyo International Forum, 3-5-1 com. Web: makeup-in-paris.com. District & other locations, Vancouver. Tel.: +85-2-2827-6211. E-mail: 20017 RHO, Milan. Web: cosmit.it. Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. 26-28, Cosme Innovation, Tokyo Big Tel.: 604-929-8995. [email protected] or [email protected]. 10-11, Made in France by Fatex, E-mail: [email protected]. Sight, 3-11-1 Ariake, Koto-ku, Tokyo. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: aplf.com. Carrousel du Louvre, Paris. Web: ptjapan.com/english. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: fxfashionexchange.com. 26-27, Prime Source Forum, Hong Contact: Agnès Etame-Yescot. 10-13, Jewelry Shanghai 2012, Web: cosme-i.jp/en. 12-14, Shanghai International Textile Kong Convention and Exhibition Tel.: +33-1-47-56-32-32. Shanghai World Expo Exihibition 26-30, Men’s Fashion Collections, & Clothing Expo, Shanghai New Center. Contact: Kennise Pang or Fax: +33-1-47-56-32-99 & Convention Center, Shanghai. Paris. Contact: Fédération Française International Expo Center. Tiffini Yao. Tel.: +85-2-2827-6211. E-mail: [email protected]. Tel.: +86-21-6587-6481. de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Contact: Noel Tian or Teresa Too. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: salonmadeinfrance.com. Fax: +86-21-5666-6192. Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode. Tel.: +86-21-6277-5353. Web: primesourceforum.com. 10-11, Makeup in São Paulo, Hotel E-mail: [email protected]. Tel.: +33-1-42-66-64-44. Web: chinaexhibition.com. 26-28, International Shoe Unique, São Paulo. Contact: Beauteam, Web: chinajewelryshow.com./english. Fax: +33-1-42-66-94-63. E-mail: 12-14, Spinexpo, The Shanghai World & Leathergoods Fair, Tokyo 124 Rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris 13-15, Beautyworld Japan, Tokyo Big [email protected]. Expo Exhibition & Convention Center, Metropolitan Industrial Trade Center, 75006. Tel: +33+01-42-73-96-61. Sight, 3-11-1 Ariake, Koto-ku, Tokyo. Web: modeaparis.com.
Fall / Winter 2013/14 INTERNATIONAL FASHION TRADE SHOW JANUARY 15–17, 2013 STATION-BERLIN Luckenwalder Str. 4-6, 10963 Berlin www.premiumexhibitions.com ADVERTISEMENT
ELEVATING the ART of JEWELRY
The National Jewelry Institute celebrates 10 years ADVERTISEMENT A DAZZLING DECADE: The National Jewelry Institute Celebrates 10 Years
“La Jolie” by Man Ray. Fabricated in 1971 Pair of Earrings, Greater Iran, 11th - 12th century by Montebello from a 1961 drawing. CE, gold. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Collection of Roz Jacobs Image from Masterpieces of Ancient Jewelry, used by kind permission, copyright Running Press
Flower Brooch, Van Cleef and Arpels (1976). Collection of Iris Cantor
Judith Price and Dior President and CEO Sidney Toledano, on the occasion of Mrs. Price’s receiving the Legion d’Honneur (2011), Photo courtesy of Thierry Orban, Abacapress
Launched in 2002, the National Jewelry Institute Institute’s 10th anniversary, we sat down with her for Jewelry Institute in response to that. As the major was founded with the mission to elevate jewelry and a look back and a glimpse into the future. fashion firms accelerate their extension into high its rich heritage, and to better educate consumers jewelry brands, our mission is being fulfilled. about the legacy and future of fine jewelry. Since What was your initial vision for the National Jewelry then, the non-profit has worked with some of the Institute? How has it evolved? What does the 10-year milestone mean to you? world’s most iconic brands and designers to deliver its message around the world. During my career as a business reporter for Time Our 10th anniversary is credit to the leading jewelry Magazine, and then the proprietor of Avenue firms and major museums who gave their support, At the helm is Judith Price, an elegant and fiercely magazine for 25 years, I followed the luxury goods making our 15 exhibitions and four books possible dedicated connoisseur who has initiated a decade industry and its trends closely. It became apparent (Masterpieces of American Jewelry, Running Press; of unbelievable exhibits, remarkable books, and that the fashion industry was largely branded but Masterpieces of French Jewelry, Running Press; and brilliant partnerships. On the occasion of the the jewelry industry was not. I launched the National Masterpieces of Ancient Jewelry, Running Press).
On the cover – Clockwise from top left: The Karl Lagerfeld Dress by Chanel, from collection of the Museum at FIT, 91.255.9, gift from the estate of Tina Chow; Panther Brooch by Cartier (c. 1928), image from Masterpieces of French Jewelry used by kind permission, copyright Running Press; Necklace by Graff, Collection of Hilary Geary Ross; Bracelet “Le train des restrictions” (“Restriction train”) by Boucheron (France, 1942) Courtesy of Taylor Trade Publishing, a division of the Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group; Evening Gown by Christian Dior (1947-50), Courtesy of the Museum of the City of New York; Boite a sucre (“Sugar Box”) by Hermes (France, 1940) Courtesy of Taylor Trade Publishing, a division of the Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group; Vandopis Parishii Orchid Brooch by Paulding Farnham for Tiffany & Co. (1889), Photo by Carlton Davis © Tiffany & Co.; Fish Lighter, Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., (c. 1940), owned by Diana Vreeland, courtesy of Kenneth Jay Lane; Jeweled Ballerina Brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels (New York, 1946), image from Masterpieces of American Jewelry, used by kind permission, copyright Running Press
[2] ELEVATING the ART of JEWELRY ADVERTISEMENT
The non-profit has worked with some of the world’s most iconic brands and designers to deliver its message around the world.
Four Bunny Pins by Raymond C. Yard, 1931-1940, Courtesy of Vartanian & Sons.
Insignia of the Order of the Iron Crown of Napoleon I by Regnault Nitot (France, c. 1810). Musee de l’Armee. Courtesy of Taylor Trade Publishing, a division of the Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group
“Vegetable Bracelet” by Lorenz Baumer (c. 2004)
Diamond and Platinum Bracelet by Raymond C. Yard (1935), Joan Crawford, owner, courtesy of Vartanian & Sons
These firms and institutions are well-represented in Honneur et Distinctions will be launched at the before concluding its tour at the Musée Carnavalet in my most recent book, Lest We Forget: Masterpieces prestigious Académie des Beaux-Arts of the Institut Paris as “Bijoux des Stars,” complete with a French of Patriotic Jewelry and Military Decorations de France, across the Seine from the Louvre in Paris edition of the book. (Rowman and Littlefield), which will be transformed on June 6, 2013, the eve of the Normandy landing into an exhibition and translated into a French and run through September 15, 2013. It was a tremendous success in Paris. Did that language edition under the title Honneur et surprise you? Distinctions: des Medailles et des Hommes. Your book and the exhibit that brought it to life, Masterpieces of American Jewelry, were ground- I was most impressed by the record attendance of That is exciting—can you tell us a little about that breaking. Can you give us insight into how this visitors to the Carnavalet, which is the official upcoming exhibit? was conceived? museum of the City of Paris. In particular, I was amazed that the majority of these visitors were It is our most ambitious exhibition to date, and will No one had ever staged an exhibition celebrating French nationals fascinated with the legacy of tell the story of American, British, and French military the history of American jewelry. As the National American jewelry. history through iconic medals, commemorative Jewelry Institute, naturally, our first task was to jewelry, and precious objects belonging to some of illuminate this heritage with an informative, dazzling Your exhibitions result from loans and from the world’s history’s most celebrated war heroes. The pieces exhibition and accompanying book. Masterpieces of most prestigious institutions. Can you tell us a bit derive from 22 world-class international institutions. American Jewelry travelled to major U.S. museums about how you work with these world-class museums?
The National Jewelry Institute [3] ADVERTISEMENT
“We are privileged to have gained the trust and respect of the world’s leading museums whose expert curators are diligent gatekeepers of iconic treasures.”
We are privileged to have gained the trust and respect of the world’s leading museums whose expert curators are diligent gatekeepers of iconic treasures. These institutions include the Taj Mahal Diamond Necklace, gold and ruby chain by Cartier, (c. 1970). Metropolitan Museum, the British Museum, the Collection of Elizabeth Taylor. Victoria and Albert Museum, the Louvre, the Berlin Photo by John Bigelow Taylor Museum, The American Numismatic Society, the Israel Museum, the Princeton University Museum, the Museum of the City of New York, the Field Museum, the American Folk Art Museum, the Musée de l’Armée, the Imperial War Museum, and the West Point Museum. Fort Sumter Decoration, Memory Brooch. Belonging to the Anderson Family, Tiffany & Co., (c. 1861). The West Point Museum. Courtesy of We work to ensure that what they lend is cared for Taylor Trade Publishing, a division of the in the same way it is in their institution. We follow Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group rigorous lending requirements, beginning with curatorial approval and followed by extensive documentation ensuring secured transport, museum quality conditions of the installation site, onsite security measures, installation procedures, and insurance.
You also borrow items from very prominent individuals.
Yes, we have enjoyed incredible support from the Bracelet designed by Coco Chanel © Ali Elia, NewYork. Courtesy of patrimony of the leading firms as well as their Primavera Gallery, NewYork foundations and individual collectors. Some notable individuals include Iris Cantor, Hilary Geary Ross, Roz Jacobs, Marlene Rankin (daughter of Olympian Jesse Owens), Carolina Herrera, Corice Arman, Susan Gutfreund, Dina Merrill, Barbara Taylor Bradford, and very notably a number of prominent men including: Kenneth Jay Lane, Arthur Sulzburger Jr., and George Patton Waters, the grandson of General Patton. Goat Figurine, Iran, Islamic Period, What can we expect from the fall 2013 exhibition 12th to 13th Century C.E.. Collection of the Israel “Destination New York: Travelling in Style,” which Museum, Jerusalem. Photo ©The Israel Museum, Jerusalem by Peter Lanyi will debut in New York City?
This show has three exciting components. First, we will display vintage photos of famous figures arriving to New York by plane, train, or ship for the last 100 years. Second, the show will feature videos of A-list celebrities arriving in or departing from the ports of New York. Third, we will display the travel accessories and jewelry belonging to all of these important celebrities: from Hollywood stars to Olympic athletes, legendary artists to history’s greatest business tycoons, from Earrings, designed by Prince Dimitri, loaned to presidents to princes. In short, the show features NJI by Carolina Herrera. Given to Mrs. Herrera famous people and their precious possessions, by Reinaldo Herrera
[4] ELEVATING the ART of JEWELRY ADVERTISEMENT
“We aspire to continue telling stories of people, industry, art, design, society, politics, war and peace through jewelry and precious objects.”
From left to right: Pierre Rainero, Image, Style, and Heritage Director, Boite a megots, “Cigarette Butts Box,” Cartier; with NJI Board Members Christopher Forbes, Christiane by Hermes (France, 1940). Courtesy of Fischer, and Ashton Hawkins at NJI opening event Taylor Trade Publishing, a division of the Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group recalling an era of travelling in style, unfortunately lost to our generation.
In celebration of the Institute’s 10th anniversary, you are celebrating alongside some iconic jewelry brands. Tell us a bit about why you chose them.
The leading firms recognized in this section represent the rich history of growth and innovation Suite of Jewelry with Bracelet, Earrings, and Ring of the high jewelry marketplace. What defines their by Carvin French Jewelers for Bulgari (c. 1985). © David Behl Photography leadership is a commitment to fine design and product excellence. Together they have set a high bar for others to follow as the fine jewelry market continues to grow globally during even a challenging economy.
It seems you find tremendously successful partnerships and support.
The NJI has enjoyed growing support from a rapidly expanding fine jewelry industry and our commercial sponsors, including AXA Art Insurance, Nespresso, Openskies, Renault, and UBS as well as leading commercial and residential real estate companies. It is their support and encouragement that continues to fund our books and exhibitions as well as Buddha earrings by Cartier (New York, c. 1928,) extensive educational programs. Finally, my thanks Cartier Collection, © Nick Welsh the Cartier Collection go out to our esteemed Board! Chairman Ashton Hawkins, Vice Chairman Kip Forbes, and trustees Christiana Fischer, Chantal Miller, Peter Price, and our exhibition manager, Allison Barker.
Tahitian Pearl Necklace, Where do you see the NJI 10 years from now? Assael International (c. 1990). © David Behl Photography We aspire to continue telling stories of people, industry, art, design, society, politics, war, and peace through jewelry and precious objects. We will continue to maintain the highest curatorial standards as we expand the breadth and themes of the exhibitions and books.
The National Jewelry Institute [5] ADVERTISEMENT GRAFF DIAMONDS: A Vision in Diamonds
The Graff Sweethearts, pair of Sapphire and Diamond Scroll Motif necklace, perfectly matching heart shape, D 1VNZ\[Q` &#Pa` @N]]UV_R` "## Pa` color Internally Flawless, Type IIa QVNZ\[Q` " " Pa` " $#Pa`
The brand remains exceptional within the industry, both as a family business and as a vertically inte- grated company, with interests in procuring rough stones through cutting and polishing through to the QR`VT[ N[Q `RaaV[T \S aUR ¿[V`URQ ]VRPR
Laurence Graff’s expertise is extra- Barguirdjian. “[They] know to come to ordinary—which is why more rare and Graff Diamonds for the finest quality historical stones have passed through diamonds and gemstones in the world.” his hands than any other living diamantaire. “Mr. Graff is a visionary,” The brand’s status in the industry is not says Henri Barguirdjian, President of easily won. “It is really quite incredible Graff Diamonds. “He saw the for a relative newcomer to Haute opportunity in the retail jewelry Joaillerie to achieve such recognition industry over the traditional wholesale and success in so short a period of environment…and the potential of time,” says the NJI’s Judith Price. traveling abroad and reaching a broader global client base.” Creatively, the brand continues to astound. The latest design to come out Mr. Graff’s foresight paid off: Founded of Graff Diamonds’ in-house design in 1960, Graff Diamonds today boasts team is the stunning Sautoire more than 30 stores worldwide. The Collection, featuring a range of brand remains exceptional within the necklaces, bracelets, and earrings in industry, both as a family business and white and yellow diamonds accented Henri Barguirdjian – President of Graff Diamonds as a vertically integrated company, with rubies, emeralds, and sapphires. with interests in procuring rough From a business perspective, Graff stones through cutting and polishing Diamonds’ strategic expansion into through to the design and setting of Asia continues at lightning speed, with The Delaire Sunrise, the the finished piece. new stores opening this year. largest square emerald cut Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond in the world With an established reputation and “We are thrilled to have such a valued % %Pa` legendary status, the diamond purveyor partner,” says Ms. Price. “Graff has attracted a particularly savvy Diamonds graciously sponsored our clientele. “Graff Diamonds’ clients are last show at the Museum of the City of acutely astute and knowledgeable New York, “Notorious and Notable:
when it comes to fine jewelry,” says Mr. 20th Century Women of Style.” Diamonds Graff of courtesy provided Images
[6] ELEVATING the ART of JEWELRY
ADVERTISEMENT
CARTIER: The awe-inspiring Cartier Collection gathers more than 1,450 pieces A Jewel of History sourced from private individuals, the trade or at auction. The house of Cartier stands as a This history is recorded in the Cartier tribute to the highest ideals of luxury, Archives, an unparalleled treasure grandeur, and magnificence. trove conserved in Paris, London, and New York. Throughout the last decade, The widely praised new collection, the National Jewelry Institute has Bernard Fornas featuring 150 unique high jewelry been given access to these archives – President & CEO pieces and precious objects, debuted and the most historic pieces of of Cartier this September at the Biennale des Cartier—even those that are not jewels. Antiquaires in Paris. While the house continuously creates exquisite con- “I first encountered Cartier when temporary jewelry, Cartier’s long- writing my book, Executive Style,” says standing commitment to quality and NJI Founder Judith Price. “We design can be seen by looking to featured the President’s office of the its past. The awe-inspiring Cartier Cartier Mansion on Fifth Avenue. Collection gathers more than 1,450 Honoring history, with a devotion to pieces sourced from private individuals, quality, Cartier has restored every the trade, or at auction. detail of that New York monument.”
“It is difficult to pick a favorite, I like Since then, the NJI has enjoyed the Necklace, Cartier, Paris 1951 them all like my children,” says support of Cartier, including pieces altered in 1953; Platinum, gold, President & CEO Bernard Fornas. in countless exhibits and publications. diamonds, rubies; tiara fitting allows necklace to be worn as “The sapphire cabochon panther Currently on display, “The Art of head ornament; provenance: brooch of the Duchess of Windsor or Cartier,” at the Thyssen-Bornemisza Elizabeth Taylor; Studio her amazing colorful flamingo brooch Museum in Madrid features 413 Gérard, Cartier Collection are iconic symbols of Cartier creations, pieces illustrating the stylistic and I cherish the timeless white evolution of Cartier. art deco bracelets from the actress Gloria Swanson. The recently acquired It is history—and a dazzling legacy— ruby necklace of Liz Taylor is on display. just astonishing.”
Flamingo brooch; Cartier Paris, 1940; Platinum, gold, diamonds, Gloria Swanson bracelet; Biennale 2012 emeralds, sapphires, and rubies, Collection; platinum, opal, diamond, sapphire cabochons, citrine;
chrysoberyl, opal beads, emerald beads, provenance: the Duke of Windsor © Cartier Cartier of Courtesy photos: Cartier All emerald eyes, and brillants
Panther clip brooch; Cartier Paris, 1949; platinum, white gold, diamonds; yellow diamonds (eyes), Kashmir; sapphire cabochons
[8] ELEVATING the ART of JEWELRY Panthère www.cartier.us - 1-800-cartier ®
de Cartier collection ©2012 Cartier ©2012 ADVERTISEMENT
DIOR: FINE JEWELRY Victoire de Castellane – Dior Fine Jewelry Creative Director
When divining inspiration for a brand the ateliers based in Paris. A constant An Iconic Influence of legendary stature, Victoire de communication between Ms. de Castellane, Creative Director of Dior Castellane and the atelier follows each Fine Jewelry, needs only to look into stage—from casting to final polishing— Dior Fine Jewelry her own history. “My grandmother until the initial vision is realized. Resille bouquet d’Opales Ring wore jewels matching her outfits, and 2012 (front & back) changed them up to three times a day. In a business sense, Dior has secured She was impeccable—a true vision of its reputation as an industry leader. loveliness,” she says. “Through the “Dior holds a special place among the eyes of a child, her stones, mounted in LVMH companies as the seminal a very classic manner, seemed inspiration for its growing family of enormous.” It’s a disproportion found luxury brands,” says the NJI’s Judith in haute couture, and one that has Price. “That stewardship has been informed Ms. de Castellane’s designs. the responsibility of CEO Sidney “When I updated the taste for cocktail Toledano, with whom I have worked rings, people thought I was crazy!” closely over the years, collaborating she recalls. on any number of projects and exhibitions. He and his team are Getting from concept to realization is truly remarkable.” a studied process. “I begin with the image of the finished jewel in my The brilliance of their business is in head,” says Ms. de Castellane. “and harmony with Dior’s extraordinary make a quick sketch on a Post-it.” From creativity. Says Ms. de Castellane, “I there, the studio creates a gouache never grow tired of creating new drawing—a drawing in the real stories and designs.” A valued partner dimensions of the jewel from various of the NJI, we look forward to the next angles—which is then submitted to chapter of the Dior story.
Dior Fine Jewelry Dentelle Opale d’Orient Bracelet 2012 (front & back)
Dior Fine Jewelry Dentelle Opale d’Orient Ring 2012
Dior Fine Jewelry Resille bouquet d’Opales Earrings 2012 Constant communication between Ms. de Castellane and the atelier follows each stage of design—
S_\Z PN`aV[T a\ ¿[NY ]\YV`UV[T³b[aVY aUR V[VaVNY cV`V\[ V` _RNYVgRQ Demarchelier by Patrick photo de Castellane Dior; Victoire of courtesy photos: Jewelry Dior Fine
[10] ELEVATING the ART of JEWELRY
Christian www.dior.com Boutiques: Dior
My Dior collection, gold, diamonds and precious stones. ADVERTISEMENT VAN CLEEF & ARPELS:
Vision and Beauty “Zip Antique” necklace featuring round diamonds and turquoise set in 18K yellow gold by Van Cleef & Arpels
“Chrysanthème clip” circa 1937, from “Etoile Filante” clip from the “Palais de la L’Art de la Haute Joaillerie exhibit at Chance” collection featuring round, pear- the Musée des Arts Décoratifs featuring shaped, baguette, and rose-cut diamonds, Mystery Set rubies and diamonds set and cushion-cut sapphires set in platinum in 18K yellow gold and platinum by by Van Cleef & Arpels Van Cleef & Arpels
The legacy of Van Cleef & Arpels goes The rich history of the brand is After 100 years, the brand beyond the beauty of their creations— peppered with vintage masterpieces it speaks to a fine balance of of extraordinary beauty. From the _RZNV[` ]\aR[aYf V[ÀbR[aVNY imagination and vision. “Van Cleef & technical innovation of 1951’s “Zip” Arpels has lasted because of its ability necklace to 1968’s iconic motif, “the not only because it is to combine great creativity, technique, Alhambra,” signifying luck, true love, and sense of business and innovation,” health, and prosperity, the brand’s responsible for such stunning says Nicolas Bos, President & CEO, the designs have been as forward thinking Americas; Creative Director, Van Cleef as its business plan. treasures, but also because & Arpels. A longtime partner of the NJI, Van its leaders have proven After 100 years, the brand remains Cleef & Arpels displays its own history potently influential not only because it through exhibitions: this September, to be business visionaries. is responsible for such stunning the brand presented its “Palais de la treasures, but also because its leaders Chance” collection at the Biennale have proven to be business visionaries. de Antiquaires, and its exceptional “Vintage Alhambra” necklace from the “I began to really appreciate both presentation “The Art of Fine Jewelry” “Vintage Alhambra” collection featuring 10 white mother-of-pearl motifs set in 18K the brand and its vitality when at Les Arts Décoratifs in Paris will run yellow gold by Van Cleef & Arpels Stanislas de Quercize was appointed through February 10, 2013. President in the United States years ago,” says the NJI’s Judith Price. “Van Cleef & Arpels will always stand “Stanislas has always been an for continuity and timelessness,” says energetic and successful ambassador Mr. Bos. “I am proud to continue the of the brand through his many story and take it into the future, Nicolas Bos innovative contributions to both creating jewelry and timepieces that – President & CEO, the Americas; Creative Director, design and exhibitions.” will find their way into museum
Van Cleef & Arpels exhibitions for decades to come.” Cleef & Arpels Van of courtesy Photos
[12] ELEVATING the ART of JEWELRY Fascinating Zip Necklace, transformable into a bracelet, coloured sapphires and diamonds.
Haute Joaillerie, place Vendôme since 1906
www.vancleefarpels.com - 877-VAN-CLEEF ADVERTISEMENT HERMÈS: Inspired Art
Art inspires art—that is the philosophy artistic imagination,” says Ms. de of the Hermès museum, which seeks Bazelaire du Chatelle. to find and display examples of high- quality artistry to stimulate the Today, the Hermès Museum is still imagination. “It creates a bridge focused on this original mission to between the past and the future,” says give inspiration to the Hermès Menehould de Bazelaire du Chatelle, creative team. Director of Cultural Patrimony at Hermès, “and proposes a secret “There are about 11,000 objects— garden where this house can refresh paintings, drawings, objects of art at the source of its know-how.” or applied arts—in the collection,” Pauline Bonaparte’s hand bag Morocco leather, tortoiseshell and steel says Ms. de Bazelaire du Chatelle, Boite à sucre (Sugar box) First quarter of the 19th century. The Hermès private museum began “including the first objects acquired by Maker unknown, Silver, France, 1918 Emile Hermès Collection with Emile-Maurice Hermès, an Mr. Hermès when he was a boy, such Emile Hermès Collection. Courtesy of Taylor Trade Publishing, a division enthusiastic collector who began as an exquisite walking stick containing of the Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group picking up treasures at the age of 12 a silk parasol.” and continued to do so until his death nearly 70 years later. The Hermès The Hermès Museum is where family business—started by Thierry appreciation meets inspiration. Hermès as a horse harness workshop— “Collecting is for Hermès a pretext to
inspired Mr. Hermès’ passion for keep our house’s curiosity widely des Fleurs by Studio photograph cane Parasol b; horses and a desire to understand the open,” notes Ms. de Bazelaire du history of any beautiful object, painting, Chatelle. “To exercise our admiration or book on the subject. Soon, he was for other cultures, to renew and to filling up his office with treasures refresh our creativity, to quest endlessly acquired in auctions or at antique the secret of beauty that can last.” dealers, even at the flea market. Taking The Imperial Prince’s the reins at the family’s firm in 1920, Mr. “Like the NJI, Hermès exhibits the finest mechanical horse Hermès gave the venerable company’s treasures to elevate jewelry as an art Wood, foal skin, horsehair, leather, silk, velvet, bronze, productions a new twist. Holding fast form,” say the NJI’s Judith Price. “Iconic ivory, and iron Parasol cane to the quality and excellence that was objects of Hermès will be included in France, circa 1858. Silk, pheasant feathers, Emile Hermès Collection porcelain, wood the hallmark of the house since 1837, my next and most ambitious exhibition Germany, 19th century. he utilized his collection as inspiration to date, “Honneur et Distinctions: des Emile Hermès Collection for his craftsmen and designers. “[They Médailles et des Hommes” to open in found] examples of high quality and Paris in June 2013—we are proud to wonderful ideas to stimulate their have them as a valued partner.”
“Collecting is for Hermès a pretext to keep our house’s curiosity widely open...to exercise our admiration for other cultures, to renew and to refresh our creativity, to quest endlessly the secret of beauty that can last.” Pauline Bonaparte’s hand bag, The Imperial Prince’s mechanical horse, Boite a sucre (Sugar Box) photography by © Thierry Jaco photography Box) (Sugar a sucre Boite horse, mechanical Prince’s hand bag, The Imperial Bonaparte’s Pauline
[14] ELEVATING the ART of JEWELRY TIME ON YOUR SIDE
Hermes.com ADVERTISEMENT LOUIS VUITTON HAUTE JOAILLERIE: Necklace in white gold, white and yellow diamonds for 74.37 carats including 1 LV cut diamond for 3.05 carats, collection L’Ame du Leadership & Luxury voyage, Haute Joaillerie Bracelet in white gold, white and yellow diamonds for 23.19 carats including Necklace in white gold, rose and brillant cut 1 LV cut diamond for 1.76 diamonds, collection Voyage dans le temps, carat, collection L’Ame du Haute Joaillerie voyage, Haute Joaillerie
Bague in white gold, white and yellow diamonds, collection L’Ame du voyage, Haute Joaillerie
“I believe that [Vuitton’s] success was not just the
result of executive and creative leadership, but also a AZEMARD / FRANCIS VUITTON © LOUIS e dans le Temps quite conceptual approach to marketing.”
Pendant earrings in white gold, blue ceramic powder, 2 sapphires for 6.58 carats, marquise cut diamonds, collection Voyage dans le temps, Haute Joaillerie Lorenz Bäumer Necklace in white gold, blue ceramic dust, marquise and – Art Director, Louis Vuitton brillant cut diamonds and 1 LV cut diamond for 2.56 Haute Joaillerie carats, collection Voyage dans le temps, Haute Joaillerie
“I am fascinated by the power of jewels to make a woman feel more beautiful and The Louis Vuitton philosophy is simpatico with that of the National Jewelry confident,” says Louis Vuitton Haute Joaillerie Art Director Lorenz Bäumer, Institute. Witnessing its extraordinary growth and evolution as a brand, Judith “I have always dreamt of being the man who would make women feel beautiful. ” Price marvels at the strategic thinking that has brought it to the forefront of the luxury market. “Always famous for its design and quality,” she says, “Vuitton has It’s an accomplishment that Mr. Bäumer—and the Louis Vuitton brand—have emerged as a leader of new design and international growth. I believe that such achieved. There are few names that conjure luxe sophistication the way Vuitton success was not just the result of executive and creative leadership, but also a does, or whose iconic artistry is so well attuned to its customer. “The Louis conceptual approach to marketing.” It was their promotion of “The Art Vuitton woman is my muse,” says Mr. Bäumer. “She’s accomplished and multi- of Travel,” Ms. Price says, that was a cultural lightning rod. “Such creative faceted. She’s contented yet incredibly curious—open and daring. I strive to marketing was an innovation and still represents one of the unique strengths of create jewels for every moment of her life.” the Vuitton culture.”
With perfect balance, Mr. Bäumer uses the Louis Vuitton heritage, adapts it, and “Jewelry is at the heart of life,” Mr. Bäumer notes, “at the crossroads of art and re-invents it. “I like to infuse it with boldness, create the unexpected, and technique, desire and pleasure.”
facilitate an amazing journey.” Voyag Joaillerie de Haute Collection Images / ANNA LEROY; VUITTON © LOUIS du Voyage L’Ame Joaillerie Collection de Haute Images
[16] ELEVATING the ART of JEWELRY
ADVERTISEMENT TIFFANY & CO.: True & Timeless
An international icon of glamour, Tiffany & Co. had remarkably humble beginnings. “In 1837 Charles Lewis Tiffany founded Tiffany & Co. in New York City with only a thousand-dollar loan from his father and dreams of building the finest specialty goods retail store in America,” says Design Aztec collar by Paulding Farnham, (1900) Director Emeritus John Loring. “While I served on MOMA’s Junior Council early in my career, I collaborated with John Loring, then an aspiring artist,” says Judith Price. Tiffany & Co. diamond and gemstone rings in Now a prolific author, he has become platinum (clockwise from top): oval tsavorite with an essential source for the long and a border of yellow diamonds in 18 karat gold, oval , earrings, rings and Aztec collar: photo by Tiffany & Co.; Enameled Orchid Brooches: photo by Carlton Davis © Tiffany & Co. Davis © Tiffany by Carlton photo Brooches: Orchid Enameled & Co.; by Tiffany photo collar: , earrings, rings and Aztec colorful history of jewelry. kunzite, cushion-cut morganite, oval tanzanite ®
Tiffany & Co. earrings with oval tsavorites and diamonds in platinum
Jean Schlumberger’s whimsical “Trophy Brooch” (c. 1940) Tiffany Blue Box®
Soon Tiffany & Co. was attracting “Trophy Brooch”: photo by Tiffany & Co. Archives; Tiffany Blue Box Tiffany Archives; & Co. by Tiffany photo Brooch”: “Trophy unstoppable attention. Tiffany himself Today, Tiffany & Co. was dubbed the “King of Diamonds” for purchasing the French Crown has evolved from that Jewels from public auction after the fall of Napoleon III. Later, he crafted Enameled Orchid Brooches with diamonds small specialty shop the iconic blue box to honor the in the style of Paulding Farnham, the celebrated emperor’s bride, Empress Eugénie, 19th-century Tiffany & Co. designer into a globally admired who proclaimed the shade her official color. At the 1889 World’s Fair, Celebrating 175 years, Tiffany & Co. is brand, with 250 stores Tiffany & Co. received six gold medals. introducing a high jewelry collection “If Gustav Eiffel’s 986-foot tower was featuring white and yellow diamonds in 22 countries. the first attraction of that fair,” says Mr. and four colored gemstones which Loring, “Tiffany & Co.’s dazzling jewels they introduced to the fine jewelry world: were its second.” blue Tanzanite; lilac-pink Kunzite; green Tsavorite; and rose-pink Morganite. Today, Tiffany & Co. has evolved from that small specialty shop into a A valued partner of the NJI, the John Loring globally admired brand, with 250 Tiffany & Co. brand is synonymous –Design Director Emeritus, stores in 22 countries. with luxury and craftsmanship. Tiffany & Co.
[18] ELEVATING the ART of JEWELRY ©T&CO. 2012 CONGRATULATES THENATIONAL JEWELRY INSTITUTE ON ITS 10 TIFFANY &CO. TH ANNIVERSARY ADVERTISEMENT
Nicola Bulgari –Vice Chairman of the BULGARI: Bulgari S.p.A. Board of Directors The Bulgari story began centuries ago with a family of craftsmen in the village of Epirus in 19th century Centuries of Craftsmanship Greece. “My family descends from a line of silversmiths,” says Nicola Bulgari, Vice Chairman of the Bulgari S.p.A. Board of Directors. “That is Buckle in gilded silver with blue and red paste, where my grandfather, Sotirios Georgis Boulgaris, ca. 1870-1880; Courtesy of Bulgari’s Historical Archive Collection Boulgaris, learned the ancient craft of silversmithing that had been passed down for generations.”
It was Sotirios Boulgaris who moved the business to Italy, changing the family name to Bulgari and opening his first shop in Rome in 1884. It was known for its antique silverware, “curios,” or objets d’art, and jewels.
In 1932, upon Sotirio’s death, his sons took the helm and turned the Necklace in platinum with company’s core focus to jewelry, each emeralds and dimaonds, highlighting their own strength. Says ca. 1962. The necklace, undoubtedly one of Mr. Bulgari, “Costantino was a self- Elizabeth Taylor’s favorite taught scholar who wrote the only jewels, was a gift from existing encyclopedia of Italian Richard Burton for their marriage in 1964 silversmithing and silver hallmarks, Argentieri, Gemmari e Orafri d’Italia. My father, Giorgio, embodied the soul of Bulgari jewelry, developing design that utilized a combination of colored stones—an innovation in style that then became the Bulgari standard.”
Today, Bulgari is known for its legacy Serpenti pink gold necklace & earrings of artistic design—in silver, in with rubellite beads and timepieces, and in jewelry. Recent pavé-set diamond scales; extraordinary items include beautiful Serpenti Jewelry Collection, launched September 2012 scale models of buildings, and the Serpenti pink gold coil “The Bulgari name and currently available in Bulgari basic jewelry collection is bracelet & ring with Bulgari stores worldwide rubellite head and pavé-set filled with new designs as well as evokes centuries diamond scales; Serpenti updated classics. “For the first time Jewelry Collection, 2012 we are offering Serpenti jewels made of artistry— with colorful gemstones,” says Mr. Bulgari, “and our newest antique coin committed to the core pieces and marble BZero1 rings are all values of a the rage these days.” This extraordinary brand is a cherished family business.” partner of the NJI. “The Bulgari name evokes centuries of artistry—committed to the core values of craftsmanship, quality, and design,” says Judith Price. Necklace and pendent earrings in gold set with emeralds, “It has evolved to remain not only rubies, sapphires and diamonds, 1967-1968 relevant, but extraordinary.“ of Bulgari. images courtesy Serpenti Collection Collection. Archive Historical of Bulgari’s courtesy Photos
[20] ELEVATING the ART of JEWELRY
ADVERTISEMENT BOUCHERON: The Past & Future of Luxury
“Our priority is to continue the codes established by Frédéric Boucheron, with a contemporary vision in our creations.”
Perle au Trésor pendant earrings, pavéd with slice diamonds, cultured pearls and opals, on white gold
Mosaïque Delilah necklace, set with a rose-cut diamond and a rubellite drop, pavéd with diamonds and orange, yellow and Python bracelet, pavéd with pink sapphires, on diamonds, on white gold pink gold
Perle au Trésor object, set with a cushion-cut diamond, pavéd with slice and round diamonds, cultured pearls, opals, and mother-of-pearl, on white gold. The object opens and unveils a necklace, two brooches, and a bracelet
Among the most historic high jewelry 1859, they will now revisit the archives brands in the world, and the first and present a contemporary watch contemporary jeweler to open on line that reflects the Boucheron legacy. the Place Vendôme, Boucheron has Pierre Bouissou established a tremendous legacy of The National Jewelry Institute treasures – President and CEO luxury. As the market opens and the their partnership with the brand, of Boucheron field becomes more crowded, CEO highlighting it in its most successful Pierre Bouissou has a vision for the global exhibitions. Boucheron’s Restriction future to transform the brand while Train, (cover), features in the upcoming honoring its storied past and staying exhibition, “Honneur et Distinctions: true to its core values. des Médailles et des Hommes,” Plume de Paon necklace, set with pear-shaped emeralds, as opening June 2013 in Paris. “The well as diamonds and emeralds, “Our aim is to ensure that anyone who Restriction Train (1942) represents the on white gold knows jewelry and luxury recognizes hardships of World War II as charms on the Boucheron aesthetic,” says the bracelet. A touching piece of Bouissou. “Our strategy is to return to history, as a personal object, this our roots.” The brand embraces the bracelet sheds intimate new light on an spirit of its founder in its collections austere and familiar tale. It shows that and its business approach. “Our Boucheron has always been in touch priority is to continue the codes with the times,” says Judith Price. Plume de Paon pendant earrings, established by Frédéric Boucheron, set with pear-shaped emeralds, with a contemporary vision in our Building on a strong heritage, with an pavéd with diamonds and emeralds, creations.” eye for innovation, Boucheron—an on white gold essential partner of the National Plume de Paon ring, set with a pear- This strategy is evidenced by Boucheron Jewelry Institute—is bringing a legacy shaped emerald, pavéd with diamonds
Watches. Creating timepieces since of luxury into the future. and emeralds, on white gold Boucheron of courtesy Images
[22] ELEVATING the ART of JEWELRY NEIMAN MARCUS : BAL HARBOUR | BEVERLY HILLS | CHICAGO | DALLAS DOWNTOWN | HONOLULU BELLEVUE | NEWPORT BEACH | SAN DIEGO | SAN FRANCISCO | SEATTLE | TYSON’S | WHITE PLAINS Customer service : (310) 385 -7625 | online boutique : www.boucheron.com ADVERTISEMENT
DE BEERS: François Delage – CEO, De Beers Diamond Jewellers A Brilliant Future
De Beers, The Jeweller of Light, has been the foremost name in diamonds. De Beers, The Jeweller of Light, creates timeless treasures that reveal and celebrate natural beauty. As the definitive destination for diamond jewellery, De Beers has a quest for inner brilliance, bringing lightness, femininity and delicacy to our sublime diamond jewellery.
The brand’s pioneering legacy is matched by its passion. Combined with their De Beers Imaginary expertise, it allows the brand to create designs that focus on the diamond as the Nature Necklace, 2012 hero. “They are creations that will be treasured forever,” says François Delage, De Beers Diamond Jewellers World Wide CEO.
De Beers Diamond Jewellers was established in 2001 as an independently managed and operated company by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the world’s leading luxury products group, and De Beers SA, the world’s premier diamond mining and marketing company. “The balance of skills through our unique ownership structure has allowed the brand to flourish over the past decade,” says Mr. Delage.
The years to come promise even more brilliance. In July, De Beers unveiled their most creative high jewellery collection to date, “Imaginary Nature.” The brand has also taken tremendous steps forward globally and is now present in 15 markets with 45 stores. “We will continue to expand our network wherever there are unique opportunities to serve our clients where we don’t today,” says Mr. Delage. Imaginary Nature The brand’s relationship with the NJI is mutually treasured, and Judith Price Unveiling Earrings, 2012 looks forward to seeing De Beers Diamond Jewellers continue to evolve. “De Beers Diamond Jewellers has established itself as a prominent retail brand, highly regarded for their process, the quality of their diamonds, their remarkable craftsmanship, and innovative design,” says Ms. Price. “For De Beers, the Jeweller of Light, the future is dazzling—and I look forward to showcasing their exemplary work.“
The Adonis Rose Ring and The Adonis Rose Bands
Talisman Pink Gold Medal, Talisman Pink Gold Earrings, Talisman Pink Gold Band
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to impeccable craftsmanship and sophisticated designs, is the De Beers Difference. De Beers of Diamond courtesy Jewellers Photos
[24] ELEVATING the ART of JEWELRY
ADVERTISEMENT ASSAEL INC.: “Salvador adored pearls, and was always A Pearl of the Industry able to meet the demand for perfection by UNcV[T aUR Z\`a ZNT[V¿PR[a ]RN_Y` NcNVYNOYR In the jewelry world, they’re royalty. “When we met, my husband had already been dubbed the ‘Pearl King’ by the press,” says Christina Assael. “Salvador a standard that I am proud to uphold.” adored pearls, and was always able to meet the demand for perfection by having the most magnificent pearls available, a standard that I am proud to uphold.”
It was a perfect match: passion meeting perfectionism, resulting in a true love affair—for everyone. The brand became renowned for its style and quality. “Our necklaces and other jewelry are favored by the most sophisticated ladies around the world,” says Ms. Assael. Pair 18K white gold The role of Assael Inc.—the people and the brand—was unique in the industry. earring with fresh “Salvador and his firm were really quite special in the business,” says the NJI’s water pearls Judith Price. “Under Salvador—and today, under Christina—Assael provides the highest quality pearls for any number of great brands, and they create their own striking pieces.“
As the company evolves, Ms. Assael remains fiercely dedicated to their core values. In jewelry, she says, “Change is a constant.” Trends may come and go, but quality remains. “As with everything, the better the quality of the pearls the less trendy it becomes,” she says. “Pearls are sophisticated, timeless, classic. Always right.”
Ms. Price has seen the fashion shifts firsthand. “Pearls have evolved from simply a beautiful string for very fashionable ladies into an important element of many fine jewelry pieces,” she notes. 18k white gold necklace with fresh water pearls For Assael the future is bright as the brand looks to add more designers to their and moonstone collection and introduce fresh materials to combine with pearls.
“We are confident that whatever Assael Inc. does next, it will be remarkable,” says Ms. Price. Pair 18k yellow gold earring, with south sea pearls
Christina Assael, Chairman of the Board, Assael Inc., pictured with her late husband Salvador Assael, Founder, Assael Inc.
18k yellow gold necklace and bracelet, with south sea pearls and moon stones
18K white gold Brooch w/ South
Sea cultured pearl, Diamonds Inc. Assael of courtesy Images
[26] ELEVATING the ART of JEWELRY
ADVERTISEMENT MARINA B: Pneu crystal ear pendants, launched in 1978 (please note, the beads are interchangeable) A Treasured Heritage
Renowned for her emphasis on timeless designs inspire today, and Mr. geometric design and distinctive use Lubetsky notes, “We are going into the of color, Marina Bulgari—the driving archives and making one-of-a-kind force behind Marina B jewelry—has pieces that were designed but never created a style that is distinctly her put into production.” own. Born into the legendary Bulgari family, jewelry was her birthright. This past year, the brand recreated and Blending her storied Italian heritage re-launched Marina B’s best-selling with a keen eye for innovation and a pieces and introduced designs they playful sense of design, Ms. Bulgari left felt were “of the moment.” Bold classics the family company in 1976 to pursue such as the ATOMO collection— her dream of creating jewelry for the originally created by the designer in international, jet-setting woman. 1989—pay homage to the brand’s 30 years of Italian craftsmanship with a Fuji Yama Bracelet and Her creations became instantly recog- distinctly modern sensibility. “We also Fuji Yama Ring, created by Jewelry photos courtesy of Marina B; Paul & Toni Lubetsky photo by Patrick McMullan by Patrick photo Lubetsky & Toni B; Paul Marina of courtesy photos Jewelry nizable, thanks in part to generous have re-introduced the Simona bangle Marina Bulgari in 1987 volumes and proportions, the use of into our ‘Extraordinary’ collection,” 18 karat yellow gold, colored semi- says Mr. Lubetsky. precious stones, and diamond pave. A distinguished clientele, already familiar “Long before Madison Avenue was with her work, became devotees of known for its constellation of luxury the designer. boutiques, Marina B. opened her beautifully architected space,” says the “Marina made one-of-a-kind pieces for NJI’s Judith Price. “There, you could prominent socialites and celebrities. quite easily find the designer herself We have spent time buying back many present. She is a true artist, following a of those pieces,” says Paul Lubetsky, long tradition and an immense talent in President and CEO of Marina B. The her own right.”
Bold classics such as the ATOMO collection— originally created by the designer in 1989— pay homage to the brand’s 30 years of Italian craftsmanship with a distinctly modern sensibility.
Paul Lubetsky -President & CEO of Marina B Atomo Ring, Atomo Earrings, with Atomo Necklace (long version) Toni Lubetsky and Atomo Bracelet, all created by -Executive Director of Marina B Marina Bulgari in 1989
[28] ELEVATING the ART of JEWELRY
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What setsyouapartfromother You havesomeoftheworld’stop f |DirectorofFineArts 516.390.3625 also relocated to prevent damage. also relocatedtopreventdamage. handbags andavastshoecollection,whichwe way. Also,theclienthadanumberofHermès along withotherundamageditems—outofharms an artrestorerwhomovedalldamageditems— two hoursofreceivingthecallwewereonsitewith client wasinParisatthetimeofloss.Within was acollectorofart,antiques,andcouture.The loss intheirNewYorkCityapartment.Theclient Brian: how youwereabletoresolve? that aclientmayhaverecentlysufferedand Judith: Canyougiveanexampleofaclaim in theworld. Velandiaone—one ofthetopartconservators collection reviewfreeofchargewithGloria conservation program.Weprovideanannual One suchprogramisourprivatecollection in protectingtheirartandcollectibles. that nootherbrokerhastoassistourclients Brian: I recently had a client that had a large water I recentlyhadaclientthatlargewater We havesetupvariousprograms ADVERTISEMENT BROWN HARRIS STEVENS: Finding New York’s Best Treasures
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Available for purchase on Amazon.com
Masterpieces of American Jewelry, Masterpieces of French Jewelry, Masterpieces of Ancient Jewelry given by kind permission, Running Press; Lest We Forget: Masterpieces of Patriotic Jewelry and Military Decorations given by kind permission, Rowman & Littlefield of Taylor Trade Publishing
Salutes the NATIONAL JEWELRY INSTITUTE
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National Jewelry Institute A Decade of Exhibitions
Masterpieces of American Jewelry – 2003-2007 Museum of American Folk Art, New York; The Carnegie Museum, Pittsburgh Somerset House, London
Treasures of the Titans I – 2005 Forbes Galleries, New York
Treasures of the Titans II – 2006 Forbes Galleries, New York
Bijoux des Stars – 2006 Musée Carnavalet, Paris
Olympic Gold – 2007 Forbes Galleries, New York
Lorenz Bäumer: The Creative Process of a Jeweler – 2007 Forbes Galleries, New York
Masterpieces of French Jewelry – 2008 Forbes Galleries, New York De Young Museum, San Francisco
Masterpieces of Ancient Jewelry: – 2008 Forbes Galleries, New York Exquisite Objects from the Cradle of Civilization and The Field Museum, Chicago
Designer Showcase – 2008 Forbes Galleries, New York
Masters of Time – 2009 Forbes Galleries, New York
Designer Showcase – 2009 Bristol Hotel, Paris
Notorious and Notable: 20th Century Women of Style – 2010 Museum of the City of New York, New York
Honneur et Distinctions: des Médailles et des Hommes – 2013 Académie des Beaux-Arts, l’Institut de France, Paris
[34] ELEVATING the ART of JEWELRY ADVERTISEMENT CHANEL: Blending Tradition & Innovation
Launched in November 1932, Chanel Fine Jewelry Constellation du Lion Bracelet & Necklace was inspired by the icons that still resonate in its design today: stars, comets, bows and ribbons, feathers and fringe.
Nowhere is this more evident than in the latest offering—a tribute to the 1932 “Bijoux de Diamants” collection in celebration of its 80th anniversary. When she presented the debut collection many Cosmos Secret Watch years ago, Mademoiselle Chanel said, “If I have features an incredible 15-carat diamond at its center. chosen diamonds, it is because they represent the The piece pays homage to the original, a reference greatest value in the smallest volume.” Shown in to the brand’s timeless artistry and the vision of the October, a reimagination of the Comète necklace designer herself. Balancing tradition with innovation, it reflects the themes that have become signature of Chanel. “Mademoiselle Chanel was the ultimate innovator, designing her collection in an incredibly modern way. Driven by design, with flexibility in how it was worn, giving women the freedom to move,” says Barbara Cirkva, Division President of Chanel Inc., Fashion, Watches, and Fine Jewelry. “Those principles, combined with a tradition of great Comète Necklace craftsmanship, guides new collections today, inspired by original icons that are constantly reimagined.” Fontaine Earrings Keeping such a legacy intact is the life’s work of many, and as a purveyor of art and jewelry the NJI’s Judith Price has seen firsthand the collaboration that takes place.
“The rich history of Chanel certainly owes a debt to the style of the amazing Coco Chanel,” says Ms. Price, “as well as decades of creative inspiration by some of the greatest minds in design history.” She notes that Chanel’s prominence today is not only due to an investment in building the brand and initiating its extension into jewelry and accessories, “Guided by a but also to the nurturing of both executive and timeless creativity, design talent through the years. This autumn, Chanel Fine Jewelry presented 80 Chanel masterfully new high jewelry pieces in celebration of the 80th anniversary of their debut collection. This blends innovation exceptional collection displays the full scope of the creativity and know-how of high jewelry within and iconic style. the brand.
Their jewels are “Guided by a timeless creativity, Chanel masterfully blends innovation and iconic style,” says Ms. Price.
Photos courtesy of Chanel of courtesy Photos truly treasures.” “Their jewels are truly treasures.“
The National Jewelry Institute [35] CHANEL.COM CHANEL CHANEL FINE CHANEL.COM JEWELRY BOUTIQUES 800.550.0005 ©2012 CHANEL ® , Inc.
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