Journeys Along the Seventh Ring

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Advertising Hotline 400 820 8428 城市漫步北京英文版 10 月份国内统一刊号: CN 11-5232/GO China Intercontinental Press ISSN 1672-8025 Journeys Along

october 2014 the Seventh Ring

主管单位：中华人民共和国国务院新闻办公室 Supervised by the State Council Information Office of the People's Republic of China 主办单位：五洲传播出版社地址：北京市海淀区北三环中路31 号生产力大楼 B 座 602 邮编 100088 工体店 GONG TI STORE 麦子店 MAI ZI DIAN STORE B-602 Shengchanli Building, No. 31 Beisanhuan Zhonglu, First floor of Lianbao Flat, Middle 104, No.15 Zaoying Beli, Maizidian Xingfu Street, Chaoyang District, Street, Chaoyang District, Beijing Haidian District, Beijing 100088, PRC Beijing 朝阳区麦子店枣营北里 15 号 104 号 http://www.cicc.org.cn 朝阳区幸福中路联宝公寓一层 AM 8:00-PM22:00 TEL:65076361 社长 President of China Intercontinental Press 李红杰 Li Hongjie AM 8:00-PM 24:00 TEL:64177970 期刊部负责人 Supervisor of Magazine Department 邓锦辉 Deng Jinhui 三里屯店 SAN LI TUN STORE 丽都店 LIDO STORE No.1 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang No.102 The Richmond Park District, Beijing Editor-in-Chief Stephen George LeisureCenter, Fangyuan South Street, 朝阳区三里屯北小街 1 号 Senior Editors oscar Holland, Will Philipps, Chaoyang District, Beijing AM 8:00-PM21:00 TEL:84551245 Karoline Kan, Marianna cerini 朝阳区芳园南路丽都水岸会所 102 号 AM 8:00-PM22:00 TEL:84578116 乐成国际店 LANDGENT Arts Editor Andrew chin INTERNATIONAL STORE Nightlife Editor Alex taggart 公园大道店 PARK AVENUE STORE No.76 Landgent International 5-2 Online Editor Nona tepper No.111 Shopping Complex,No.6 Baiziwan South Erlu, Chaoyang District, Staff Reporter Stan Aron Chaoyang Park South Road, Chaoyang Beijing District, Beijing 朝阳区百子湾南二路 76 号院乐成国际 Assistant Editor Vivid Zhu 朝阳区朝阳公园南路 6 号公园大道商 5-2 底商 Chief Designer Ning Zhu Designer tin Wu 业中心 111 号 AM 8:00-PM22:00 TEL:87724979 Staff Photographer Noemi cassanelli AM 8:00-PM22:00 TEL:65306843 Stephy chung, Huang Xiaohui Mia Li, Ian Walker, Wang 东环广场店 DONGHUAN Contributors 新城国际店 CENTRAL PARK STORE SQUARE STORE Xuejun, Fan Xinran, Sun Yiming 8-1-102,No.6 Chaowai Avenue, No.29 Dongzhong Street South Building Chaoyang District, Beijing F-G, Dongcheng District, Beijing Urbanatomy Media 朝阳区朝外大街六号 8 号楼 1 层 102 东城区东中街 29 号东环广场 B 座 1 层临 AM 8:00-PM24:00 TEL:65970765 街铺面（近东环广场） AM 8:00-PM22:00 TEL:64183328 Beijing: 48, Dongzhimen Waidajie, Dongcheng District. 双井店 SHUANG JING STORE Ginza Mall building c, room 9G 18-06 D Shuangjing Bodied City 香江店 XIANG JIANG STORE 东城区东直门外大街 48 号东方银座公寓 c 座 9G 100027 Business District, Chaoyang District, First floor of Country club, 电话 : 010-84477002 传真 : 010-84476455 Beijing No.1Xiangjiang North Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区双井富力城区商业 D 18-06 District, Beijing 上海和舟广告有限公司 AM 8:00-PM24:00 TEL:58764233 朝阳区香江北路 1 号乡村俱乐部一层 Shanghai (Head Office) AM 8:00-PM22:00 TEL:84506882 No.10, Lane 872 Aomen Lu, Shanghai 200060 上海市澳门路 872 弄 10 号邮政编码 : 200060 电话 : 021-2213 9018 传真 : 021-2213 9010

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2 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com Thats_Beijing

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www.facebook.com/pages/Thats-Beijing EDITOR’s note october

I discussed the idea with Oscar [Holland, Senior Editor] – who Ring Roads. I soon came to view that boundary – both real and imag- When I first arrived in Beijing, I lived between the Fourth and Fifth suggested that rather than simply visiting these towns and villages, ask me where in the city I lived, instead, it was always, ‘which ring are at the time had just returned from a trip to Gansu – he immediately youined in?’ – as Later, a powerful when Isignifier moved toof Dongchengstatus. Rarely – to would an apartment Chinese friendswithin motorbikes. separately, we should travel along the Ring Road itself, preferably on view being that I had moved ‘up’. the Second Ring – those same friends congratulated me. The general continuedThe motorbike to evolve. idea For wastwo eventuallymonths, we dropped researched in favor the area,of a car and (more practical, fits more people, can sleep in it) but the plan itself The city’s rings, beginning with the walls of the Forbidden City, maintain a potent grip on the collective psyche of the capital. Over - Tplottedo help ourus with intended this task, path. we In recruited order to followHuang the Xiaohui, Ring’s the proposed tour bus time, I have come to view these rings as a sort of 21st century Great route, we would have to navigate a patchwork of small country roads. Wall,Yet a seriesunlike ofthe concentric Great Wall, demarcation the rings continue lines, separating to undulate (and outwards segre – proved invaluable. With –gating) pulling the rural ‘real’ and city suburban from the outliers encroaching into B sprawl.eijing’s orbit. Huang’sdriver for help, Beijing we devisedpunk band a week-long P.K. 14. An route, expert stopping navigator, at nine Huang key – - destinationsthe sixth and along final memberthe way. of our team

On reading of plans to build a so-called ‘Seventh Ring’, my imme- ermostdiate response limits. E wasncompassing a strange mixan area of incredulity spanning some and excitement. 216,000 square Set travelogueAware of the constraints of such a journey, and the limitations - kilometers,to open in 2017, the 940-kilometer-long the Ring will stretch road the willnotion increase of Beijing the city’sto its popuout - it placed on our reporting, we decided it would be best framed as a lation to 130 million people. . The result is a brief but honest snapshot, capturing some But who are these people, these new ‘Beijingers’? The more I thing of a world rarely visited by those of us in Beijing’s inner Rings. thought(depending about it, the on more your definitionI became convinced of city) that we should visit comingWe hopemonths, to present but in the some meantime, of what we collectedhope you (includingenjoy this specialover six hours of video footage and 1,000 plus images) in an exhibition in the these places, and find out for ourselves. edition of our magazine. Stephen George Editor-in-Chief

From left to right: Noemi Cassanelli, Stephy Chung, Stephen George, Huang Xiaohui, Karoline Kan and Oscar Holland www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 3 QUOTE OF THE MONTH

“Highways are the blood

believe it’s the wisest thing to vesselsinvest of anmoney economy. in” I

47-year-old Ma Hiujin, a truck driver from Sanhe, Hebei, on the outskirts of Beijing 6 CITY

8 TALES OF THE CITY

in Beijing in latest crackdown Tougher rules for TEFL teachers 8 URBAN DICTIONARY Contemporary Chinese made comprehensible Sign up for 9 CONFUCIAN COUNSEL 1 year Our sage advises an adulterer on 9 (12 issues) the brink of losing all home delivery 10 LIFE & STYLE of That’s 11 STYLE SPOTLIGHT Beijing for Janine Grosche, visionary founder 12 BAGS OF APPEAL RMB240 of PATH and Pharrell admirer The best clutches and holdalls for fall15 SCEand winterNE & HEARD 11 eye-catching collections Latest trends, fresh openings and 18 ARTS

18 max atlarge The New York native gets ready

for20 HalloweenThe dro p Our man Alex Taggart with the

best23 BE of IJNBeijing’sG BE nightlife-BOP Shanghai jazz academy JZ School 23

bring the free form up north 48 EAT & DRINK

53 TRIBE Kale smoothies and seven-grain

breads55 AU TforUM membersN BEER ofF ESTthis clan TEL: 84477002 Slow Boat host the inaugural [email protected] 58 CULIANG RENJIA Autumn Craft Beer Festival

55 downtown Beijing Farmers’ delight of retro dining in

4 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com THE WRAP

24 The new beijingers? We plot a course through Hebei around Beijing’s proposed Seventh Ring Road, visiting the people and places that lie within its reach

21 ONE NOTE WONDER Japanese instrumentalists Mono bring 22 SKY HIGH their album tour to Yugong Yishan

Historic New York festival awaits influential label Modern Sky

www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 5 THE BUZZ

DON‘T BOTTLE IT Balance of Power Students balance half-full water bottles on their heads during a compulsory military training exercise at the Zhengzhou Institute of Aeronautical Industry Management. Although the training drill is only carried out to discourage fidgeting, the addition of novelty drinking-straw glasses could provide instant hands-free hydration in the field. Speaking about the drill, trainer Lok Liao said: “Any student that drops their bottle will be punished.”

RANDOM NUMBER Playing the market The End for Yashow? Beijing officials have announced that all of the capital’s garment and wholesale markets will be relocated by 2016, which will most likely include knock-off treasure troves like Alien Street, Tianyi ...is the weight, in tons, of a block of jade discovered in Liaoning, and Yashow. The move is believed to be part of a thought to be the biggest in existence. ‘The King of Jade’, as it is new strategy to shift low-end industries to Tianjn known locally, measures three by eight meters at its base and is four and Hebei in order to address overcrowding in meters tall. The colossal stone’s market value is currently unknown Beijing. Sure, because the waves of shoppers but reports estimate that it may be capable of boring record numbers flocking to Yashow for Tommy Hilfiger’s 2003 of tourists in a warehouse on the way back from the Ming Tombs. button-down shirt range are just unbearable.

6 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com [email protected]

I don’t want no scrubs Ask a Laobeijing Historic Qing Dynasty Bathhouse We met Duan, a 77-year-old Qianmen resident, as she sat by her hutong home, talking with her neighbors. in Beijing Forced to Close Xinyuan Bathhouse has been scrubbing What’s the dead skin off the backs of grubby Beijingren difference for 139 years. Increasingly costly water, between electricity and gas bills, however, have marriage forced the local institution to shut down. today and Located in Xicheng, the venue leaves 90 or marriage when you so longstanding regulars looking for a new were young? place to unwind and bathe. No happy ending for this massage parlor, then. NOEMI cassanelli BY P HOTO

“Some things haven’t changed. For example, a man is supposed to pay for the wedding and buy the house – this is the same! But I support making it more flexible Quote of the Month as society develops. These things should depend on the situation. If the man is short of money and the woman is “Not only has the 2015 well-off, helping the man financially shows her belief in the relationship. But of course, if the man doesn’t have Spring Festival Gala financial problems, it’s still his responsibility to pay for the marriage. not been canceled, That’s not to say men and women aren’t different. I believe that there’s a natural division between the sexes but it will be a – women are able to give birth to the next generation, while men are better at providing a good living fantastic one. CCTV is environment for the family. It makes sense. Of course, things have changed a lot in terms of getting ready for it and women’s attitudes towards material things. When I was young, girls never complained about money. Our welcomes everyone’s marriages were much purer. It was about the men we wanted to marry rather than the houses and cars. Now advice” too many girls won't even look twice at a guy unless he ...was the statement from CCTV, after online has an apartment and a car – where’s the romance? rumors began circulating that the world’s Our whole society is like that. It’s so competitive. most watched television show might not If one girl marries a guy with a house, other girls will be broadcast in 2015. Scant details of the become jealous. Imagine telling your friends and family upcoming show have been released thus far that you found a husband who has no money, isn’t (perhaps as a result of recent high-profile successful and can’t support you? People would think arrests of public media figures as part of less of you as a result. the anti-corruption crackdown), which Back in our day, everyone was poor. When I got initially sparked rumors of a cancellation. married in 1963, I didn’t receive any gifts at all. But I The announcement comes as a relief to did not feel sad. In Chairman Mao’s time, women were countless families who have nothing really to educated ‘to hold half the sky’. We believed it was say to one another, relying on the marathon shameful to depend on men and to be material, which screening to get them through an otherwise could have been seen as pursuing a capitalist lifestyle.” torturous New Year’s Eve. As told to Karoline Kan

www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 7 city | tales

XIAO XIAN ROU TALES /xiăo xian ròu/ 小鲜肉 by Mia Li

Definition: n. somebody who is young and inexperienced, but OF THE hungry for success. Also used to describe someone youthful and innocent, but desirable by older members of the opposite sex.

How to use it: A: I remember when Justin Bieber was hot. B: What a piece of xiao xian rou he was. Now he is a dense chunk of CITY chewed up beef. A: What the Chinese soccer team really needs is 11 xiao xian rous. Strict New Rules for B: I agree! The current team is hopeless. We could use a fresh new start. Foreign Teachers in the Capital

Beijing’s underage and under-qualified teachers may soon have more to worry about than grading their students’ homework. The city’s municipal government has tightened requirements for foreigners working in the capital, with particularly stringent new measures for teachers, according to the People’s Daily. Beginning October 31, foreign English teachers must have five years of relevant experience, no criminal record China is known for its food and the Chinese are known for their food and the name of their employer specified on their work analogies. No expression better demonstrates the nation’s infinite appetite documents. The new rules stipulate they must also possess for life than xiao xian rou. Literally meaning ‘little fresh meat’, xiao xian rou a Teaching English as a Foreign Language (TEFL) certificate, paints a picture of a small cube of sizzling juicy beef. But it in fact refers most of which require a month’s professional training. to something more desirable: the young, fearless, successful and – most The lazy days of Beijing’s ‘white guy in a tie’ appear importantly – enviably good-looking. to be coming to a close. Schools may actually have to hire Xiao xian rou are the hottest new movie stars and filmmakers. They are teachers based on their qualifications alone – not, in some breakout athletes with muscled frames plastered across city billboards. They cases, just by their skin color or nationality, according to are artists with six-figure price tags and seven-figure homes. They are tech Eric Winder, CEO of beijingteach.com. entrepreneurs who made millions in their own bedrooms. “But this is still China and as much as things are Of course, the flavor of xiao xian rou can vary, depending on what dishes changing, have changed and will continue to change, the you like. The hottest pop stars are called xiao xian la ji (‘little fresh spicy simple fact is that this country runs on guanxi,” he said. chickens’); while this week’s new K-pop boy band sensation is xiao xian “There’s only an ever-increasing demand for English ren shen ji (‘little fresh ginseng chicken’). Grease up the frying pan of lexical teachers, while regulators will be hard-pressed to stop creativity and devise your own. what actually happens on the ground.” While the English-language expression ‘fresh meat’ is more passive, Such actions includes a number of infamous cases emphasizing a young target’s suitability to be on the receiving end of involving a minority of foreign teachers in China, including a practical joke or sexual advance, xiao xian rou implies a much more pedophilia and sexual assaults. Last year, That’s Beijing perceptive package. A xiao xian rou might be emotionally inexperienced, helped break the story of Neil Robinson, a teacher working but they are far from ignorant. They know what they want and have been in Beijing who was wanted by police in his native UK for a waiting for years for their turn to go out and get it. I’m not saying they are string of sex offence charges. He was extradited and jailed gold-diggers, but they ain’t messin’ with no coal miners. for 12 years in January this year. Yet, in keeping with the English expression’s more lecherous In the months that followed, the government issued connotations, xiao xian rou is increasingly used by older women to describe tougher visa laws making criminal background checks young men – probably due to the lack of words objectifying men. These days, mandatory. Arrest and deportation rates have nearly Chinese women aren’t afraid to let everyone know what makes their mouth doubled since 2012. With English teaching in China water. They talk about picking up fresh-faced young men with the same ease particularly popular among recent graduates and hardened that they shop for a fresh cut of lamb at the market. reprobates alike, the need for five years’ relevant teaching experience looks set to diminish the field of suitable mia li is a news reporter in beijing by day; at night, she tries to turn that news into standup candidates. Nona Tepper comedy.

8 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com WWCD | city

What Would confucius do? Modern Dilemmas, Age-Old Wisdom

“I recently started an affair with a man who is in a long-term relationship and has two children. Before I met him, I had also been in a long-term relationship which I decided to end to prove to my new lover I was serious. But since then, my new partner has blocked me from all forms of contact. Have I done the wrong thing, and is there anything I can do to save either relationship?

My Dear Friend – the first item in the most Kingdom, he was told that the Duke and that Confucius was against. ancient Chinese poem collection, The Book Nanzi would both receive him. Confucius’ An old Chinese saying goes: “emotion of Songs, is about a young man who falls student Zilu was worried that the meeting is as hard to control as a flowing river”. I in love with a girl who he meets once and would damage his teacher’s reputation. suppose you could not resist such attraction. never sees again. He misses her so much Confucius told him: “I will obey the But you have done well to end the first that he can’t sleep and is compelled to write principle of morality. If what I do is wrong, relationship, while he has done well to block a masterful poem professing his love and the Gods will punish me.” So when he met you. So why not just let it go? You would suffering. Confucius later read it, observing the Duke’s wife, he requested that a physical regret it either way, but which do you prefer that love should “start from attraction and screen be placed between them. This way, – doing the right thing then regretting it or end before it crosses the line.” he was able to politely accept the king’s doing a bad thing then regretting it? I know Currently, you are wandering around meeting and, at the same, time avoid any you are brave and Confucius says: “brave the ‘line’, which Confucius meant as the line rumors that might stain his reputation. people are never afraid.” separating morality from immorality. What Although his actions seem drastic, the is morality? Let’s learn from the actions of principles that hold true today originate wang Xuejun is a lecturer at beijing language and the philosopher himself. from such beliefs. Self-cultivation, building culture University, specializing in chinese culture. In 496 B.C., Duke Ling of the state a family, developing the nation and creating his most recent book is entitled teaching methods of Wei married Nanzi, a woman whose a peaceful world are the pursuits of of chinese language and traditional culture . send promiscuous past had sullied her every traditional Chinese intellectual. An your ethical dilemma for Professor wang to bjeditor@ reputation. Before Confucius visited this extramarital affair is definitely something urbanatomy.com

www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 9 Folio 线 style radar LIFE & STYLE

Covet Made in China Mr Mustachio Chinese Underpinnings Mustache-themed parties – where contained sketches of erotic positions. people stick ‘taches to their upper With such inspiration it is no surprise lips to unleash their inner Mario that this is underwear that begs to be – are the epitome of a hair-raising admired. Pillowbook’s buttery soft pieces good time these days. Chinese label are versatile, discreetly sexy and – most Simple Mills has moved beyond importantly – work around different body conventional sticky whiskers to shapes. make some seriously hip wooden After stints with big lingerie names like numbers. This classier mo’ will also Kiki de Montparnasse, Oscar de la Renta and keep your face free of any adhesive Playboy Lingerie (before setting up shop in gumminess. RMB15. a hutong by the Lama Temple), Lu refuses to > available at Kodo, 190 gulou dongdajie, use artificial padding for her bras. Instead she dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街190号 applies braiding or Chantilly lace onto satin or silk triangles. She also custom-makes modern interpretations of the dudou – an ancient undergarment resembling a modern-day camisole – which can be worn like a backless halter-top. With her latest collection, they can even be used as a light summer wrap for babies. Each Pillowbook item is handcrafted by Mrs Yin, a Shandong-born seamstress with ten years’ The clothes that are seen the least say the most experience under her belt. The range extends to about us. We wouldn’t go so far as to say a bespoke wedding lingerie and oh-so-covetable woman’s panty drawer is a window to her soul accessories for the bedroom. but it certainly says something about her life. If you can’t remember the last time you So investing in a good selection of went shopping for underwear, get yourself fitted underpinnings should be high on your priority out at this little gem of a showroom. Every good list. Lovely underwear not only makes you outfit begins with the unmentionables – they’re feel good, but it can also help the rest of your not called “foundation garments” for nothing. garments look better. And no-one wants to be let down, quite literally, by a bad bra. > beixing hutong, dongcheng 东城区北行胡同; Eco Goodness Enter Beijing lingerie label Pillowbook, by appointment only (www.love-pillowbook.com). the brainchild of Taiwan-born, New York- Aussie green pioneers Eco & Until october 5, pillowbook is participating in bJdw with educated Irene Lu. The brand takes its name More is our go-to brand for locally mondudou project, in collaboration with brand new china from traditional Chinese ‘pillow books’ – produced, chemical free toiletries (bnc). titillating works of art given to young brides that and household items. Its travel pack, which features shampoo, conditioner, lotion and body wash, is compact, lightweight and, more importantly, overheard 100 percent plant-based. RMB95. > available at a spoonful of sugar, 59 tieshu xie Jie, xicheng 西城区铁树斜街59号 “You’re so youthful, (6308 3971) but what is to be done about the pimples on your face?”

That’s the philosophical question posed by POCO, a new Chinese app that takes heavily edited (and somewhat disarming) portraits with its ‘beauty camera’. As well as transforming ‘disappointing’ regular faces into doll-like, porcelain masterpieces, the app also allows users to add huge eyelashes, anime-style makeup and even reshaped chins. The final results – unrecognizable fantasy images – can be uploaded onto social media with the tap of a screen. Creepy much?

10 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com Edited by Marianna Cerini / [email protected]

Spotlight Janine Grosche, founder and creative director of PATH

Tell us a bit about your background. I’m from Germany and studied Fashion Design at [the fashion school] ESMOD in Berlin, where I specialized in menswear. After working in Berlin for several labels I was offered a designer job in Beijing. I obviously took it straight away and moved here. I’ve been in Beijing for four years now, and launched my own menswear label, PATH, in 2012.

How does Beijing compare to Berlin? silhouettes. Berlin and Beijing are very much It’s hard to pinpoint a particular source of inspiration alike. They are both cities with but there is definitely a sportswear influence in my fall/ contrasts and both have art and winter 2014 collection. creativity aplenty. I’ve drawn ideas from motocross and cycling, but also Of course, Beijing is still growing. from 90s silhouettes I remember from my childhood. Under the lens There is still so much room for As for the color range, I’ve opted for a bright palette to Baidu Glasses development and that’s also the case survive the greyness of winter. I’ve used a lot of orange for its fashion scene. That’s what and royal blue in futuristic-looking digital prints. The Move over Google Glass – Baidu Eye makes it interesting. entire collection has a somewhat visionary tone. is what cool tech is all about this season. What drew you to menswear? Is there an iconic figure from either the past or the After a year of speculation, I’ve always been interested in present you would like to dress? the Chinese company unveiled its menswear – to me, it’s a spectrum Pharrell Williams would be a fun one. answer to Google Glass last month, that has yet to be fully exploited. presenting what we think is a rather I love to focus on new and Your aesthetic in three words. hot-looking gadget at the Baidu modern lines and shapes. Menswear Sport-luxe, experimental, voluminous. World conference in Beijing. allows me to do that. I can revisit Unlike its better known rival, classic pieces in unexpected ways Worst fashion faux pas? Baidu Eye sends visual information using new fabrics, unique prints, I think there are no longer any. Even combining white to the user’s mobile device, making individual cuts and proportions. socks with black slippers – which I think is pretty horrific it “easier to browse than on a small, – became a huge trend this summer. mounted screen.” Why the name ‘PATH’? The working prototype is also PATH is a synonym for ‘way’: it How has Beijing influenced your style? visually different from Glass – it represents the past, the present and Beijing, and China in general, have influenced my style in wraps around the back of the head the future. the sense that I’ve started integrating Chinese characters with a camera on one side and an The label is all about reinventing in my prints. I usually choose a word related to the theme earpiece on the other. It doesn’t go menswear by pushing boundaries of my collection. For fall/ winter, for instance, I am using across the face, which means that a) and presenting a different image of 未来 (weilai) – ‘future’. it’s a lot less goofy-looking than its masculinity. American counterpart and b) Baidu What’s your favorite trend for men’s fashion this fall? won’t have to enlist fashion names What inspired your fall/winter Outsized silhouettes, from sweaters to coats. And the fact like Diane von Furstenberg (who collection? that there is a lot of color instead of just black, although I designed a range of Google frames) My approach to design is about love black. to try to make it hip. looking past traditional notions of Expect these specs to give the US men’s fashion, focusing instead on Fashion is… giant a run for its money. new fabrics, new prints and new Unlimited.

www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 11 Folio 线 life & style | Fashion

Excess baggage Bold clutches, modern backpacks, embellished totes – this season is all about statement accessories. We’ve rounded up the best and busiest bags of the season that Totes Clutching at Holdalls you’ll want to grab hold of – from bargain to blowout. Take your pick and add them to your fall wish list.

by Marianna Cerini

1. Shape shifter COS relaxed shoulder bag, RMB350. > www.cosstores.com

2. A pop of color Reveries multi-purpose shoulder bag, RMB1,280. > elleshop.com.cn

3. Lighten up H&M bucket bag, RMB399. > www.hm.com

4. Major metallics Pull&Bear oversized wallet, RMB119. > www.pullandbear.com

① ②

③ ④

③ ④ 1. Classic Shape Zara, tricolor bowling bag, RMB599. > www.zara.cn

2. Edgy rucksack Topshop suede > www.topshop.com

3. Clutch it duffle backpack, RMB645. R > en.zooq.com 4. NEW SHAPES afe Handbags snakeskin clutch, RMB665. Plore fold rock bag, RMB4,250. > www.xinlelu.com

12 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com fashion | life & style

1. Hipster style > www.asos.com

Fjallraven2. Classic no good 21 medium looks backpack, RMB1,785.69. H&M leather messenger bag, RMB999. > www.hm.com

3. Perfect commuter NLGX recycled paper wool backpack, RMB350. > www.nlgxdesign.com

4. Hands on Billy Kirk buckled dopp kit, RMB1,080. > shop.projectaegis.com

① ②

③ ④

③ ④ 1. Weekender COS canvas weekend bag, RMB990. > www.cosstores.com

2. Sport casual Zara Man combined sport bowling bag, RMB499. > www.zara.cn

3. Plum job H&M bucket bag, RMB399. > www.hm.com

4. Werk werk werk Billy Kirk padded zippered briefcase. RMB2,980. > shop.projectaegis.com

www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 13 Folio 线 life & style | P.O.C

Portrait

of Yi Ye | 27 China

“I really like vintage clothes from Europe and the US. I think they’re pretty cool. They make me feel quite stylish – like I’m from a different world.”

“I’m not from Beijing but I love coming here to go shopping. My hometown doesn’t have that much choice in terms of nice fashion.”

“I would like to open my own vintage shop one day. I would import clothes from London or Paris. What I really want is to visit those cities myself, though. That’s my biggest dream. ”

By Marianna Cerini / Photo by Noemi Cassanelli

14 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com ARRIVALS | life & style

Scene & Heard by Marianna Cerini 4 3

② Vega Zaishi Wang One of the darlings of China’s ① Kodo fashion pack, Vega Zaishi ④ Bubble Mood The style phenomenon of Zakka Wang always enchants with ③ Maria Luisa – or ‘various things’ in Japanese her referential collections. Her Despite its playful name, there’s – tries to find beauty in the inspirations have spanned Maria Luisa Poumaillou first something almost sultry about mundane. Its aesthetic leans themes as diverse as the ancient Bubble Mood’s fall/winter toward kitsch, retro or cute kingdom of Loulan and Alpha when she launched one the most collection. The Shanghai-based objects that are full of hidden Lyrae, the fifth brightest star in influentialmade her name fashion 26 boutiquesyears ago, brand, known for silk Japanese meaning for the owner. the night sky. in the world. She has since kimonos and French flair, has In Beijing, the trend has For fall/winter 2014, the been a French fashion fixture, opted for a dark, romantic range become as ubiquitous as Beijing-based designer looks to opening several offshoots of her of colors this season. Gray, beards in East London. Across the Reindeer People – herders eponymous store around Paris. oxblood and black create an Dongcheng, cutesy ventures have who have roamed northern The legendary buyer has aesthetic that is sober and fluid, taken over former convenience Mongolia for thousands of years. now set her eyes on the Chinese both versatile and chic. stores and baozi shops, The result is a heavily masculine market. In March, she opened Founder and designer Olivia cramming their shelves with collection, featuring winter a store in Shanghai and, as of Gurdjan travels extensively playful, useless and, on occasion, staples like long checked blazers this month, her multi-brand around Asia seeking fabrics utterly brilliant knick-knacks. and dress pants. retailer can be found in Beijing’s and prints to integrate into Kodo is one such shop. The palette of deep blue and Taikoo Li North. Its sleek, her garments, with the aim of While the second and third black, often embellished with monochromatic space carries a creating “a flagship piece that floors offer coffee and a terrace leather trims or fur details, gives cluster of luxury brands aimed at would be at the crossroads with excellent views over Gulou, the range a cohesive, grown- Chinese consumers, from Cedric between Japan and Paris.” the ground level space is filled up aesthetic. Somber hues are Charlier and Christopher Kane to The range on offer reflects with a jumble of items – from juxtaposed with the occasional Erdem, Jonathon Saunders, Raf this eclectic aspiration. Each kitchenware and stationery to flash of vibrant red to represent Simons and Roland Mouret. item conjures images of exotic cushions, bags and candles. “the sacrifice that reindeers have Some 40 more stores are people and places, weaving Unlike many of its made for [their] owners.” planned to open across the Thai, Indonesian, Japanese and competitors, Kodo’s selection of This sharply tailored country within the next three Chinese lines together with design products and other funky ensemble of garments heralds a years, so expect Maria Luisa to European graphics and details. little items is actually worth a new level of maturity from the become a regular presence in Perfect for dressed up or browse, especially if you’re after designer. China’s shopping scene. down, and needing very little that perfect gift idea. > 63 yanyue hutong, dongsi nandajie, > 19 sanlitun lu, n4-15a taikoo li accessorizing (if any at all), these > 190 gulou dongdajie, dongcheng 东城 dongcheng 东城区东四南大街演乐胡同 sanlitun north, chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯 are effortlessly easy staples to 区鼓楼东大街190号 63号 (6512 1377, www.vegazaishiwang. 路19号太古里三里屯北区n4-15a stock in your wardrobe. com, vegazaishiwang.taobao.com) > www.bubble-mood.com

www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 15 Folio 线 life & style | hotels

Home away from Home The Sandalwood Beijing, Marriott Executive Apartments

that incident – where there was genuine fear the trust of our long term guest requires for the future of his business and livelihood special effort,” Leung adds. “Many guests – that such situations tend to rectify don’t just stay here, they live here.” He themselves with the right management. “You tells me that one of the strengths of The have to be patient and think of the long- Sandalwood is its security, a great selling term perspective. I’m still learning new things about my job even now.” apartments, ranging from comfortable So after years in a stressful industry singlepoint for bedroom families. units The to site spacious has 168 – stylishas big as requiring constant relocation, his appointment at The Sandalwood – a come with essentials like wireless Internet, spacious, relaxed, family-orientated 24-hour286 sqm assistance,– three-bedroom minimum homes. twice-weekly They all serviced complex away from the bustle housekeeping, home grocery delivery of Beijing – seems like just reward for service and parking on site. Amenities such endurance. Situated in Beijing’s include a 24-hour fitness center, indoor pool With over 35 years’ experience in the Central Business District, within walking and children’s play area. service industry and a familiarity with distance to the abundant green space of Such serenity, Mr. Leung tells us, allows Beijing that outlasts many (his first visit Xinglong Park, it makes it an ideal haven him time to relax with the guests and revel for executives and their families seeking in the community aspect of the apartments. Vincent Leung has brought a pair of safe a balanced and rewarding lifestyle in “We had a garden BBQ with all the guests handsfrom his to nativeThe Sandalwood Hong Kong Beijing, was in 1986)Marriott Beijing. Regular shuttle buses run daily to last month,” he says. “But as a football Executive Apartments. And – as he’s keen local supermarkets and weekdays to the fan, the highlight of my summer was the to tell us – in that time he’s coped with the CBD and BDA. The site is named for the World Cup. We have many German families kind of events that you just can’t foresee neighboring Red Sandalwood Museum, the living here and watching it with them was when you’re starting out. first and largest private museum in China incredible.” “I remember the SARS outbreak [of 2002- specializing in red sandalwood works of art 03], which was a terrible time for the and furniture. the sandalwood beijing, marriott executive apartments; industry. We had barely a single guest in the “Yes, these serviced apartments have a 23 Jianguo lu, chaoyang 朝阳区建国路23号 (8557 8888; hotel I was posted in.” But he learnt from more relaxed feel than a hotel, but earning www.marriott.com/bjssw) GLOBAL SERVICE, LOCAL TOUCH Capital Hospitality at Lee Garden Service Apartment

With management roles in the capital’s “Staying in a hotel and staying in a international hospitality industry often serviced apartment is quite different,” he dominated by imported talent, it is says. “Hotel visits are often temporary, refreshing to meet a Beijinger in one transit stops, but if you’re on a long-term of the top jobs. With over 30 years’ stay in an apartment then this is your home. experience working in hotels and luxury We understand how our guests like their accommodation, it is difficult to imagine room – the furniture, the cleaning times, anyone with a better knowledge about the pillows, everything – we have to focus the needs of the city’s guests than General on every little detail. It’s all personalized. Manager of Lee Garden Service Apartments, Taking care of guests is like a family thing.” James Tian. Having taken the role in June 2014, Tian “When you’re a native Beijinger you arrives at an exciting time for the residence. know the culture, you know the customs, This new era for Lee Garden has seen an you know the people and you know the city,” overhaul of its offering, which – in addition he explains. “I’m very open and I like talking to around 200 rooms – features a fitness But despite the improvements to and meeting with people, so I’m very happy centre, a spacious dance studio, indoor ‘hardware’, Tian is keen to stress that it is to be in my home town, welcoming guests swimming pool and children’s playground. people that make a difference in hospitality. from all over the world.” “We spent nearly 280 million yuan “My team is focused on our guests’ After beginning his hotel career in completely renovating the property,” he convenience and experience. Our front desk the early 1980s – when Beijing had few reveals. “We’ve completely changed the knows each guest – where they’re from, international hotels and only a smattering kitchens which now all feature modern their hobbies, their schedule – so we can of joint ventures – Tian has worked his way equipment, we’ve enlarged the room space ensure they really get that ‘home away from up to the top through roles in sales and for storage, and the lobby and public areas home’ feeling.” marketing. He made the move from hotels are completely new. There’s been a lot of to serviced apartments in 2008, which investment in the environmental set up lee garden service apartment 18 goldﬁsh lane, brought about a self-professed “change in and you can see the mixture of Chinese and wangfujing, dongcheng 东城区王府井金鱼胡同十八号 mindset.” Western styles.” (6525 8855)

16 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com hotels | life & style

when he stayed here in 1957. The Astor Hotel, A Luxury For the quintessential Astor experience, we decide a room in the heritage wing is a must. The oldest wing of the hotel, the Collection Hotel, Tianjin rooms were restored in 2010 to their former 19th century glory, and are decorated with When it comes to hotels in Tianjin – maybe Murano glass chandeliers, floor-length silk even all of China – few can compete with draperies, and a four-poster canopy bed, as the heritage and history of The Astor would have been de rigeur for Sun Yat-sen Hotel, A Luxury Collection Hotel. The first and Herbert Hoover when they stayed at the international hotel in all of China, built in turn of the century. The parquet floor wood paneling is all original we’re told; the TV was the focal point for modern Tianjin’s screen in the bathroom mirror and the high- developmentthe former British and the concession meeting inpoint 1863, for it speed wireless internet, we suspect, came some of the most important people to have considerably later. trodden ground China. One advantage to staying in the As we take in our surroundings, from heritage wing is the proximity to the Astor’s the airy Victorian Lounge atrium to the cozy museum, which provides a quite detailed O’Hara bar, we realize a night spent here is look into the history of the hotel in Tianjin less a night in a 5-star luxury hotel, more society. It’s also where O’Hara’s English- a night spent in a 5-star luxury museum. style pub and lounge can be found – which Simple actions we would otherwise take is where we sink into a Winchester leather for granted take on a special meaning here. sofa with a glass of scotch after a hard Picking up the phone and ordering room day’s voyaging. A hotel should be a place to service, for example, we remember that this unwind after all – just ask last emperor Pu was actually the first hotel in China to even Yi, who frequented the Astor’s ballrooms to have a telephone, first installed in 1877. As dance with his wife. we take the restored 1924 OTIS elevator in the heritage wing – the very first elevator in the astor hotel, a luxury collection hotel, tianjin; 33 taier a public building in China – we realize this is Zhuang road, heping district, tianjin the same elevator former Chinese Premier 天津市和平区台儿庄路33号利顺德大饭店豪华精选酒店 Zhou Enlai would have taken up to his room, (022 2331 1688)

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www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 17 collage

What’s new

The Tonight Show has been revitalized under Saturday Night Live alumni Jimmy Fallon. The perpetually nice host has created a surreal world where celebrities battle each other at charades, Britney Spears discusses the pros and cons of dating her, and ‘Neil Young’ covers pop hits like Iggy Azalea’s ‘Fancy’. Available exclusively on Iqiyi.com.

Chinese criminal justice expert He Jiahong also doubles as a writer with his debut Hanging Devils making the Guardian’s top Drumroll 10 Asian crime novels list. He’s back with Black Holes which follows lawyer Hong DJ Max atLarge Jun investigating a corporate fraud case and unveiling a web of secrets dating back You’re called Max atLarge. Are you on the of Halloween. On October 25 we have to the start of the Cultural Revolution. lam? And if so, how long have you been Alejandro Paz (Cómeme Records) playing Available on Amazon. on the run for? at our Masquerade Ball and on the 31 we’re About six years now! That 9-to-5 prison was having the Halloween edition of Tropical a tough one to break away from. Disco.

You’re playing Parnas’ Halloween Party – As a man who is ‘at large’ you must what’s on your Halloween playlist? have some good tips on how to disguise For sure I’ll play ‘They Came at Night’ by yourself. What’s your best (and worst) Daniel Maloso and the Quinten 909 remix of Halloween costume? ‘Spooky’ by Dusty Springfield. And of course I once won a bottle of tequila for dressing no Halloween party would be complete as an iPod dancing shadow. And I would without Michael Jackson’s ‘Thriller’. say any costume that comes in a bag is the worst costume. The darling couple of Maybe Mars Where’s the scariest place you’ve ever release their third album on October 13. DJ’ed? (and why?) We’ve heard some highly-questionable Label head and P.K. 14 frontman Yang My bedroom. There wasn’t a soul in sight rumors that Sanlitun is built on the site Haisong teams up with his wife Sun Xia, and it felt like a trap! of an ancient Taoist burial ground. Have the group’s former bassist, to form Dear you ever met any ghosts or spirits in Eloise. The duo mix guitar feedback with Parnas is well known for its big, lavishly- Parnas? poetic lyrics and Farewell to the Summer themed parties – how will this one differ No ghosts, but I’ve seen some scary-looking is their most melodic to date. Available at and what should we expect? people when the lights come on! downloads.maybemars.org. Well this time around we have two weeks > oct 25 & oct 31; Parnas (see listings for details)

18 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com TRANSCRIPTED Hao Bu Hao “Everyone I know has an entourage – including the people in my entourage, and my dogs”

Mariah Carey, who plays in Beijing this month, struggles to get to the bottom of her reputation as a diva. > oct 10; 7.30pm; rmb280-1,280 beijing workers stadium, gongti bei lu, chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路 Hao It took 26 years, but The Simpsons has officially made it to the Mainland. Sohu has finalized a deal to bring the animated classic to its streaming services, exposing the country to the Bu Hao antics of Homer, Bart and company. Talk about mixed messages. After Executive producer Al Jean was so years of self-regulation, China’s video- excited he blurted out “Woo hoo! Now streaming services have increasingly we can reveal Shanghai is actually in caught the eye of officials. First The Guangdong Province.” Big Bang Theory went down and now state regulator SAPPRFT is hinting at a future cap limiting foreign content to 30 percent of content available on services like Sohu and Youku.

Canvassed Carcass

“Lock up your daughters, your mothers, your grandmothers and in the case of Carcass – your dead grandmothers” > Jeff walker, of english metal legends carcass (pictured here having a nice cup of tea) tells fans what to expect during a recent tour. find out whether the band – whose songs include ‘swarming vulgar mass of Infected virulency’ and ‘corporal Jigsore Quandary’ – bring the same level of carnage to beijing this month; oct 9; 8pm; rmb380 (door), rmb300 (presale); Yugong Yishan (see listings for details)

www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 19 Folio 线 ARTS | Undergound

Ohmahdayyyyz! Without exaggeration, other than Pitbull at Elements. It’s no hipster the drop September was the most packed month of w*nkfest either – Wordy and crew know how to electronic music events I’ve seen since arriving educate a mainstream crowd without alienating Beats, Blops in Beijing 5 years ago. The nights lived up to the them, so expect a touch of EDM and the odd hype but the October comedown allows time chart remix in there alongside hip-hop, trap, and Breaks for reflection: while underground promoters dubstep, footwork and drum ‘n’ bass. All things are undoubtedly stepping their game up, with considered, this is an excellent opportunity to more ambitious events and world-class promo, get...ahem…turn’t up. Yes. Quite. Skank out to it can sometimes feel like everyone’s getting this on October 10. a little ahead of themselves. After all, a scene Speaking of being deliberately challenging, isn’t just a group of DJs and promoters – it’s here’s a…hmm, I was about to call it a party, but a community of die-hard punters who go to I got a mental image of the organizers clawing the shows every weekend. Right now, that my eyes out. This year marks the third edition community is still not large enough to support of Sinotronics’ Beijing Electronic Music three or four big events on a single night – it Encounter, a series of, er…events that aim to seems everyone’s trying to impress each other, undermine everything you thought you knew rather than recruiting new ravers. about electronic music. There’s a whole list of… With that in mind, here are a couple of meet-ups on the agenda, ranging from beard- events that go against the grain this month. strokey experimental salons to beard-shakey I recently rediscovered DJ Wordy’s Hotpot club nights. nights, having not been to one since they were The first major date on the program, at in The Opposite House basement a few years Dada on October 24, features a live set from back. They’re currently killing it at Migas – FM3, inventors of possibly the world’s best DJs Wordy, Wes and Soulspeak, with Crash Buddhist music box (literally a little box with a on the mic, are possibly the ballsiest crew on speaker that loops Buddhist chants – Google it). the circuit right now. I’ve seen them throw No idea what they’ll be playing – which is kind down some of the most anti-Migas tunes I of the point – but this one is about “building can imagine, and the dancefloor still goes off. a bridge to the unknown,” so open your mind That’s like playing Pitbull in Dada, or anything reeeeal wide. by Alex Taggart

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20 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com feature | arts

“I was feeling a darkness that wasn’t Monochrome Nights about sadness, but more about anger and Japanese Instrumentalists Mono Take Their suffering. Like an endless disappointment New Album on the Road or an uncontrollable despair” by Andrew Chin

The music of Mono – perhaps the most scorching riffs, ominous drones and doom and make the positive ones as positive as influential band to have emerged from rhythms. Initially beguiled by what he had possible.” Japan’s post rock scene – has long skirted written, Taka admits it took time for him While guests like Envy’s Tetsu Fukagawa a line between despair and euphoria, to become comfortable with songs that he and Calexico’s Jacob Valenzuela pop up, nowhere more so, perhaps, than on their describes as representing his dark side. the new album ditches the orchestral new double release, The Last Dawn/Rays of “We gradually accepted the chaos accoutrements the group has been praised Darkness. wrapped in this negativity and really for on albums like 2009’s majestic Hymn “The two albums ended up representing wanted to express that to the world as art,” to the Immortal Wind, as well as their 10th the counterpoints of life,” guitarist and he says. Writing those songs took it’s toll anniversary concerts across the world with group leader Takaakira ‘Taka’ Goto explains. however, with Taka admitting its darkness the 25-member Wordless Music Orchestra. “Light and darkness, hope and helplessness, seeped into his daily life. “My feelings “We wanted to go back to the love and loss, the emotions which can’t be were very rebellious without thoughts,” he straightforward approach of expressing expressed, pain which you can’t put into recalls. “It was almost as though I had sold everything as a four-piece group and words, happiness which you can’t simply my soul to hell.” expand the possibilities of guitar music,” measure.” To fight off the feeling, he began writing Taka says, recalling how he started the Set for release in late October, Taka a new set of distinctly different songs as group with drummer Yasunori Takada, admits the group had no intention of an emotional outlet. He also changed his bassist Tamaki Kunishi and guitarist Hideki recording two albums. Describing them lifestyle, writing these songs during the day “Yoda” Suematsu at a time when Toyko was as exact opposites, the discs capture the rather than his preferred late night sessions. entranced by electronic music. emotional extremes he went through while Collected on The Last Dawn, Taka “The original idea was to create a writing the group’s follow-up to their sixth describes the tracks as “medicine for myself massive sound like My Bloody Valentine album, 2012’s For My Parents. just to live through everyday life,” and with ten Marshall amps; a beautiful yet “I was feeling a darkness that wasn’t summarizes the album as “about escaping extreme sound that could almost shake the about sadness, but more about anger and from darkness and seeking the light.” roof. We want to create that wall-crashing suffering. Like an endless disappointment Recorded simultaneously this May in sound like we used to back in the day.” or an uncontrollable despair,” he says. Pennsylvania, both discs capture Mono at Billed as Mono’s blackest album, Rays their most forthright and an effort to “leave rmb180-220; 9pm, oct 17; Yugong Yishan (see listings of Darkness is a foreboding collection of the chaotic ones as chaotic as possible for details)

www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 21 Folio 线 ARTS | feature

a problem that some bands only sing in the most exciting chance yet. The lineup Chinese, I don’t care. People will respond to mixes established acts such as Stars, Blood Modern a good record.” Brothers and Lenka with label standouts Sporting retro Raybans and Beatles RE:TROS, Secondhand Rose and Omnipotent Sky Goes bangs, Shen looks every part the former- Youth Society. New York favorites Cat Power frontman-turned-creative label head. He’s and Liars headline, artists that made their the gatekeeper of the Modern Sky empire Mainland debuts with Modern Sky in the Global – the Mainland’s marquee indie label last 12 months. with more than 80 record releases and “It makes a lot of sense to bring a Meet the Mainland’s First a vast roster stretching from noise-rock similar concept to cities with big Chinese Modern Music Mogul (Hedgehog) to urban folk (Song Dongye), communities like New York, San Francisco to live electronica (CNdy), and even 1980s and Vancouver,” says Modern Sky’s Director by Andrew Chin disco-pop (Zhang Qiang). He’s drawn of International Affairs, Michael LoJudice. comparisons to Virgin’s Richard Branson “You’re engaging a massive community of due to his ambitious vision of taking the kids studying from China and music fans “Why shouldn’t there be a Chinese music industry to uncharted new who are simply curious. All these people territory. who’ve come to hear Liars will also hear company from China on The 45-year-old’s story mirrors the Queen Sea Big Shark.” a global stage for music development of Mainland rock-and-roll. He With previous stints at hip New York discovered modern Western music when indie labels Grand Royal and SpinART, entertainment?” British pop act Wham! became performed LoJudice traveled to Beijing in 2006 after in Beijing in 1983. Five years later, he reading about Modern Sky. Three months This year has been one of expansion for started the quintet Sober with classmates at later, he opened their New York office, to the mighty Modern Sky empire. They’ve Beijing Arts and Crafts Institute. He used his help bring bands to China and organize organized over 20 festivals across the life savings to create Modern Sky in 1997, international shows for the label. Mainland, with Strawberry Music Festival allowing him to release his group’s sunny Modern Sky’s first American foray came arriving in cities such as Xiamen and Dali, debut Hao Ji Le? with the 2009 Sing for China Tour. Three while this month the Modern Sky Festival As the only label of its kind in town, bands traveled in a single van from coast brand ventures abroad for the first time to Modern Sky sold hundreds of thousands to coast, playing 20 shows in 22 days, an New York’s Central Park. On a less visible of early records, like dance-rockers New experience LoJudice recalls as “awesome plain, though, their artist’s songs have Pants’ eponymous debut. Their music but torturous.” also reached an increasing number of ‘zines, complete with CD compilations, were The label’s acts continue to play mainstream ears, being covered on popular gospels spreading the word of rock across overseas, New Pants performed at Coachella singing competition shows like Super Boy. a nation. “The China market is very special in 2011, and talks are ongoing to bring How bright does the future look for Modern because everything is still new,” Shen says. the Modern Sky Festival to Helsinki next Sky? “At the beginning, we were championing summer. “Soon, Chinese bands will become tastes. It was great, but then we went “Modern Sky wants to grow like Japanese bands and appeal to a small through some tough times because so much internationally. We have a lot to leverage. international market,” says Shen Lihui, CD copying was going on. Then, everything We do all these big festivals in China and the label’s founder. “While people say it’s became free with the Internet.” that’s very interesting to foreign bands,” he Despite losing money on their says, noting the Central Park festival will be releases, the label soldiered on to its an annual affair if it proves a success. “Why tenth anniversary. To celebrate, they shouldn’t there be a company from China held the first Modern Sky Festival at on a global stage for music entertainment? Beijing’s Haidian Park with Yeah Yeah Why not create localized versions of Modern Yeahs headlining a bill of more than Sky all over the world?” 120 of the country’s finest acts. Over Shen, meanwhile, has big plans at home. 10,000 people attended and it was a “For Chinese bands, the biggest market ‘eureka’ moment for the company, now is still China.” He’s considering opening best known for the Strawberry Music Modern Sky centers across the country Festival. The May Holiday tradition – part-livehouse, part-store peddling the for Beijing and Shanghai now attracts label’s records and clothing line. He foresees 30,000 fans, as well as international more collaborations with the art and acts like Justice and Explosions in the fashion worlds, with the upcoming Modern Sky. Sky Festival in Shanghai (in partnership “A record label and a festival is with ELLE’s Style Awards) a trial run. After the same thing: cool,” Shen notes. years of investing in China’s indie music “Now, we must do everything. We market, he’s thrilled to see the country take release albums, but festivals are the such an interest. most important to us and to youth “While pop still commands the biggest culture. While Strawberry has some following, young people want to try different international bands, it’s still about 80 music now and indie is becoming popular,” percent local bands. It’s very important he says. “Just like artists are different every they are given more chances to grow.” decade, so are we. In the future, there will Next month’s opportunity to be more cool things. For Modern Sky, the perform in front of 10,000 fans in only requirement is that the music must be NYC’s Central Park looks set to be good.”

22 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com feature | arts

The Low-End Theory ① Jojo Mayer & Nerve The Swiss drummer received his first drum World-Class Jazz Takes Over Yugong Yishan set as a two-year-old and has been on-beat ever since. He performed with legends like by Andrew Chin Dizzy Gillespie and Nina Simone, before embarking on a sonic journey mixing jazz Renowned Shanghai music education center the JZ School with electronic flourishes. His Prohibited Beatz parties in the 1990s were legendary, will be celebrating the 10th anniversary of its annual jazz leading to the formation of Nerve. Dubbed “the best real live electronic band in the festival this month. Beijing is getting a taste of the action, as world,” the quartet has won praise from DJ Shadow and Amon Tobin. They’re a live three of the participating acts play dates at Yugong Yishan. marvel, with Mayer wowing crowds with his ability to perform drum ‘n’ bass’ frenetic rhythms on an acoustic drum kit.

② rmb100-150; oct 19, 9.30pm; Yugong Yishan (see listings for details)

② Snarky Puppy

The Texan collective rolls nearly 40 members deep and have backed up everyone from Erykah Badu to Justin Timberlake to Snoop Dogg. A decade after their formation, they’re bigger than ever. Their last album We Like It Here topped the iTunes jazz chart, while their collaboration with singer Lalah Hathaway landed them a Grammy Award this year for Best R&B Performance. Despite the success of their studio recordings, the band shines with their live performances – an unpredictable stew of jazz, funk and world music that will get the crowd’s brains and booties moving.

rmb150-200; oct 20, 9.30pm; Yugong Yishan (see listings for details)

③ Marcus Miller ① Arguably the world’s best bass player, Miller’s known for his trademark fretless bass and his slap technique. He’s one of music’s most trusted sidemen appearing on over 500 records by artists from Michael Jackson to Aretha Franklin to Dizzy Gillespie. Throughout the 1980s, he worked closely ③ with R&B icon Luther Vandross and collaborated on a trio of albums with jazz legend Miles Davis. As band leader, he’s won two Grammy Awards, while creating a sterling discography that explores jazz-funk and jazz-fusion. In recent years, he formed the supergroup SMV with fellow bass stars Stanley Clarke and Victor Wooten, while continuing his impressive career as a film score composer for movies that include the Beyoncé‘s Obsessed.

rmb200-300; oct 21, 9.30pm; Yugong Yishan (see listings for details)

www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 23 Cover Story Journeys Along the Seventh Ring

Words by Photography by Video and Additional Reporting by

Stephen George Noemi Cassanelli Stephy Chung Karoline Kan Oscar Holland

Cover Story Construction on the Seventh Ring Road carries on into the evening a few kilometers outside Chongli

25 Journeys Along the Seventh Ring Langfang Zhuozhou Chicheng The Key Population: 760,000 Population: 645,500 (great- Population: 290,000 (greater county) (inner city), 4.2m er county) Area: 5,287 km2 (greater city) Area: 743 km2 A drought-ridden river town where urban Area: 908 km2 (inner), Would-be sub-capital, hoping to dreams collide with rural realities. “For 6,429 km2 (greater) trade the burden of overspill for years, Beijing and Chicheng were as differ- The capital’s commuter the benefits of connectivity. “We ent as heaven and hell, although there is belt. “With or without the have the Seventh Ring Road only a mountain between them. I hope the Seventh Ring, Langfang map hanging in our office to Seventh Ring Road will bring some job op- will always have a special show our clients that the dream portunities rather than rising house prices” relationship with Beijing” of becoming a Beijinger is draw- – Song Weining, 52, farmer and construc- – Mr. Zheng, 27, furniture ing close” – Li Xinlong, 25, real tion worker store owner estate salesman

26 Cover Story The story of Beijing’s Ring Roads are in many ways the story of Beijing’s urban development. The original ring (known confusingly as the Second Ring) was constructed in the early 1980s, at the behest of city planners, who, in embracing reform- minded ideals, became convinced of the need for a modern circular highway. Built along the route of the old city wall, the Ring neatly divided the inner city from its newly emergent fringes. The Third Ring was built in 1994 and the Fourth and Fifth in 2000 and 2003 respectively. The Sixth Ring, the current outermost band, was built in 2010. At each stage, the construction of a Ring accompanied – or was built to accommodate – the expansion of the city. In 1980 Beijing’s population was 9 million. By the time the Sixth Ring was constructed thirty years later, it had grown closer to its current size of 21 million. The growth of China’s urban population is among the most significant developments in recent history. In 2011, the country’s population of city dwellers surpassed that of rural areas for the very first time. Today, it is estimated that 750 million Chinese people live in cities. Set to open in 2017, the proposed Seventh Ring will extend for over 900 kilometers, with around 90 percent of its length being built through neighboring Hebei. What this means for the capital is unclear. In addition to further stretching the definition of ‘Beijing’, the expressway is being billed as the backbone of a colossal 130-million-person megalopolis. The Capital Economic Circle (nicknamed 'Jing- Jin-Ji') will see Beijing absorb eight large cities in Hebei and link the Chinese capital with Tianjin, itself one of the country’s largest metropolitan areas (over 10 million residents). Over the next 20 pages, we journey along the proposed route of the Seventh Ring, through the hinterlands of Hebei, visiting the places and meeting the people whose lives it looks set to irreversibly alter. Length Part travelogue, part road trip, the journey is intended as a momentary snapshot of a 17km 32.7km 48.3km 65.3km 98.58km 187.6km 7th Ring 940km p rarely documented world.

Zhangjiakou Chongli Fengning Chengde Population: Xinglong Sanhe Population: 780,000 Population: 125,600 Population: 400,000 390,000 Population: 324,000 Population: 652,000 (inner city), 4.6m (greater (greater county) (greater county) (inner city), 3.7m (greater county) (greater county) city) Area: 2,337 km2 Area: 8,765 km2 (greater city) Area: 3,123 km2 Area: 643 km2 Area: 530 km2 (inner), A field of Dreams. “In Manchu autonomous Area: 561 km2 (inner), Where the wild walnuts The suburban sleeper 36,947 km2 (greater) Chongli, opportunities to county, eager for economic 39,519 km2 (greater) grow. “I never think about town. “I hope with the Former garrison town turned become rich are out there assimilation. “Fengning Imperial retreat. “I hope my future. It’s too com- Seventh Ring Road there Olympic hopeful. “I am worried if you want to find them. has everything Beijing the Ring Road will connect plicated and who knows will be fewer traffic jams. I that Beijing will only hand out I hope the construction of needs – clean water and Chengde with Beijing in what will happen, even believe the highway is the things that it dislikes, such as the highway will provide air, spacious land. With the more practical ways, like tomorrow?” – Liang Ce, 23, start of a better life.” pollution and low-level industry” me with more opportuni- highway, things will speed sharing medical care and construction worker – Ma Huijun, 47, – Liu Boyu, 31, English school ties” up”– Zhang Guiqing, 52, educational resources” – truck driver principal – Yang Bao, 38, crane seafood seller Mr. Yang, 35, construction operator materials dealer

27 Journeys Along the Seventh Ring Langfang “We have none of the benefits 廊坊 that come from living in a big Beijing, Outsourced city – no culture. I hope in the future Langfang can be integrated into Beijing and develop”

28 Cover Story o make the 40-minute drive to Langfang identifiable trait. Its landscape is flat and Lanzhou, Gansu, workers can expect to make from Beijing is to glimpse into the fu- uninspiring, its architecture plain. Even its three to four times the amount they would T ture of the proposed Beijing-Tianjin- environment – ranked among the most pol- elsewhere in China. Hebei megalopolis. Although separated from luted in northern China – is resolutely gray. “When I first arrived there was nothing the capital by an ever-eroding sliver of farm- It’s nearing 7am by the time we arrive in – no infrastructure, no sewage, no working land, Langfang doesn’t so much appear, as it central Langfang and the city’s streets are a toilets. Everything you see today is new,” he does leak slowly onto the horizon, meshing noisy mess of electric bikes, trucks and slow- explains. “But there are not enough work- with Beijing’s outermost suburbs in a near- moving construction machinery. Outwardly, ers [in Langfang]. So the pay is competitive. continuous conurbation of new and partially- the city appears to be undergoing a period of Personally, I plan to stay so long as there’s completed concrete developments. transformation – much of the downtown area work. Life is good for me here.” With a population equal to that of a small resembles a building site, while billboards It’s a similar story at the Longhe Industrial European country, Langfang is among the advertising new apartments line the city’s Park, home to Foxconn, the company re- biggest stops along the proposed route of the major roads. sponsible for manufacturing and assembling Seventh Ring. Yet despite its considerable In the large central square, groups of lim- iPhones. Here, some 60,000 workers are size – official estimates put it at over 4 mil- ber seniors perform traditional dance rou- recruited from across China to help meet lion – and relative proximity to Beijing, the tines, while others – mainly school children rising demand. city remains something of an enigma. – look on. It is here we meet 79-year-old lo- Our arrival at the front gates of the Ask a Beijinger to describe this prefec- cal resident Zhao Zhenhe, a former Beijinger Foxconn complex coincides with the final ture-level city and most will come up blank. who moved to Langfang after his hutong was day of work for its live-in summer employees. Unlike neighboring Tianjin, and to a lesser demolished in the early 1990s. Thousands of (mostly college-aged) workers degree Baoding, Langfang has no single, “Langfang has always been in Beijing’s stream out, suitcases in hand. Unlicensed shadow,” says Zhao, in between puffs on taxis and minivans swarm the roads. The a cigarette. “I think people here don’t care mood is one of excitement. much about the Seventh Ring, because as Summer worker Huang Wei tells us that far as they’re concerned, for better or worse, the majority of those leaving the plant are they’re already connected [to Beijing].” contracted through their schools and uni- That connection is relative, however. versities in places such as Henan. Having lived in Beijing for most of his life, “I come here only for the money, to help Zhao still views Langfang as remote. “We pay for my studies. In the future, I definitely have none of the benefits that come from won’t do this kind of job, it’s not promising,” living in a big city – no culture. I hope in he says. the future Langfang can be integrated into Back in the city center, opposite the cen- Beijing and develop.” tral square we find the ‘New Century Walking The idea of Langfang as a ‘spillover’ town Street’. Originally built in the mid-90s, the was further enhanced in April this year when European-style parade appears to have fallen it announced an economic partnership with on hard times. Still described by various on- Xicheng District Government in Beijing. line outlets as the city’s most prized tourist Ostensibly a means of alleviating pressure attraction, the street is now depressingly di- on the capital, the move will see much of lapidated. The ‘grand’ central staircase has Xicheng’s low-grade industry relocate to quite literally collapsed, the main buildings Langfang from next year. Media reports are crumbling, the flowerbeds dead or over- initially suggested that this would include grown. Beijing’s famous Zoo Market, though officials Nevertheless, it continues to house a have since attempted to play down reports, number of small independent clothing stores. stating only that the deal would include an Inside one, the manager tells us that business unspecified “wholesale market.” is tough but dependable. “Most of the people In the city’s working class northeastern who buy clothes here are not local. Many of suburbs, business is brisk but by no means them are construction workers who come booming. The reason, according to Ms. Liu, to Langfang to make money. As Langfang the owner of a small toy shop, is the arrival develops, I expect more people to come and of what she refers to as “outsiders.” Pointing for my business to improve – even though the at one of the countless cranes that hover over buildings are old,” she explains. “Connection the city’s skyline, she counters that few of the is a positive thing.” new developments benefit local residents. But not everyone agrees. As closing time “Most of those buying houses in Langfang, approaches, Mr. Zheng, a local furniture trad- work in Beijing, earn money in Beijing and er is preparing to go home for the night. “The spend money in Beijing,” she says. “If we want Seventh Ring will only increase competition to buy an apartment, we will have to move and further suffocate local Langfang busi- elsewhere. All these new people are pricing nesses,” he tells us. us out of the market.” “For years, Beijing has been digging holes The city’s rapid growth (Langfang’s pop- and waiting for us to jump in – we are always ulation has almost doubled since the early fooled by this idea of development. But who 90s) has been spurred, in part, by an influx really benefits from the development? Not of migrant workers keen to cash in on its me. People in Langfang are given no say in construction boom. the process. As Langfang develops, it will be p At a nearby building site, workers talk en- Beijingers who get all the benefits.” thusiastically of above-average pay. According to 40-year-old Yu Zhike, who has worked in Langfang for 12 years and is originally from

29 Journeys Along the Seventh Ring Zhuozhou 涿州 Chasing the Beijing Dream

he highway between Zhuozhou and houses work in Beijing. Generally speaking, vertising a nearby shopping mall invites Langfang is still under construction in the market here is quite good. The price is you to ‘order your dream life,’ while stores T parts, giving the city an undue sense within reach of regular working people. The sell ‘European kitchens,’ ‘Milan fashion’ and of remoteness. But while Zhuozhou may local government supports real estate a lot. ‘luxury furniture.’ be small – a mere village by Chinese stand- There’s been a massive amount of develop- Outside, three-wheeled cabs wait to pick ards – it is by no means isolated. Connected ment since the opening of the high-speed rail up shoppers. Cab driver Wang Lichang, 57, to Beijing via high-speed rail, Zhuozhou is line. The city has everything today – shop- who was born and raised in Zhuozhou, is among the chief beneficiaries of the capital’s ping malls, green spaces, good schools. It’s supportive of the changes taking place. expansion plans. a paradise for young families.” “The new people are driving the economy. Once a former farming town, Zhuozhou Throughout the day, the sound of fire- They want to settle down and raise families today is a city transformed. As in Langfang, works – near and distant – can be heard, here. Young people today have many more a housing boom has seen an influx of young each succession of bangs announcing that opportunities than I did growing up. My couples and families priced out of Beijing a marriage is taking place. daughter works in Beijing but she lives here, and eager to get onto the housing market. The wedding industry appears to be an it’s perfect for her,” he explains. Apartments here, locals tell us, are less than important part of Zhuozhou’s economy – the “My dream is that one day we will all be half the price of those in the capital. high street is home to scores of bridal stores, Beijingers,” he adds. “The rail line and the In a newly opened real estate office, their windows filled with promises of ‘New Seventh Ring are bringing us all closer to- p 28-year-old Huang Zhenke, a property agent, Style Weddings’ and ‘Paris Fashion Dresses’. gether – that is good for Beijing and for us.” explains the city’s attraction: “Zhuozhou is Aspiration is evident elsewhere too. Beijing’s sub-capital. Most people buying Opposite the main square, a billboard ad-

30 Cover Story Flyers advertising new housing developments are found throughout the Seventh Ring’s route The G7 Highway G7高速公路 Ready and Waiting

he Seventh Ring may not open in its entirety until 2017 the Ring’s route has been widely reported in state media, but sections of the road are already finished and in and its construction is evidently underway, the majority of T use. Currently known as highways G95 and G7, the people who we speak with along its path have never heard project’s longest completed stretch runs from Zhuozhou to of the road. For those who have, it is little more than an ab- Zhangjiakou and is flanked by jagged mountain peaks that stract concept; a distant harbinger of threat or opportunity. rise one after another, overlapping between dense layers This is perhaps of little surprise given the isolation that of mist. The terraced fields on the mountain slopes take many of these places have existed in until now. Indeed, just the appearance of flowing green water, interrupted by oc- beyond the roadside sign, nestled behind apple trees and casional splashes of wild flowers. sunflowers, we find something that could hardly be fur- As we emerge from a series of long tunnels that carve ther from the Beijing sprawl that may soon engulf it – a through the landscape, a cargo train passes ahead of us on Catholic village. an elevated railway line. The train’s length is astonishing. It At Huangtugang’s center, a huge European-style church is still flying across the highway bridge as it disappears into dominates the landscape, its spires piercing a skyline in the horizon behind us. We are later told that the red and which nothing stands higher than a single story. With dark gray cars are loaded with coal bound for Japan. Traveling pink walls and a sharp roof, the sight is as dramatic as it from Shanxi to the coast in Qinhuangdao, the train hon- is unexpected. ors a trade agreement signed by Premier Zhou Enlai four We climb down the bank of the highway, past a barbed- decades ago. wire fence and into a field of fruit trees. A shepherd watches This is not the only reminder of the past. At one of the on cautiously, though he seems appeased as we point to infrequent rest stops we find an ‘Artware Souvenir Shop’ the church. “Are you also Catholics? Here, all the villagers (although ‘Artware’ might better read: ‘Communist’). Inside, are Catholics,” he says, leading us (and his sheep) the rest portraits of Marx, Engels, Lenin, Stalin, Mao Zedong, Deng of the way. Xiaoping and Hu Jintao sit alongside one another in a com- In the village we meet 49-year-old Zhao, who says that bination of images rarely displayed in the capital. the Bible and Church have always been important parts of But most of the items for sale are modeled on Mao. his life. Along with all the other villagers, he attends church Plaster, bronze, wood and ceramic sculptures all stand in twice a day for prayers and song. near identical poses, each in the same flowing coat, arm “I don’t know how long people here have followed outstretched in a benevolent wave. Catholicism, but I was told by my grandfather that his Far from the communist kitsch on sale in tourist spots grandfather was also Catholic, so it must be a very long in Beijing – which lies just beyond the mountains – the time,” he says. souvenirs are targeted at an altogether different market. A church has long existed on this site, though the one Many in the capital ascribe to the Party-endorsed notion stood before us was built in 2005. A local priest collected that Mao’s leadership was “70 percent right and 30 percent funds for the project at about the same time that a number wrong” but uncritical reverence for the former leader is of villagers’ fields were acquired by officials to make way for much more prominent in surrounding provinces like Hebei. the Ring Road. Zhao received compensation of RMB28,300 This has helped the steady growth of business at the shop for his plot, with some additional money given for the apple since it opened five months ago, explains 39-year-old sales trees and grapevines that he lost. Nonetheless, he would assistant Ms.Yang. have chosen land over money. “All of our customers are drivers passing by. Some “The only thing I know about the Seventh Ring is that buy gifts for their friends but most buy for themselves. big sign over there,” says Zhao as he leads us to his home. Sculptures of Chairman Mao are put in cars or even peo- “I am not optimistic about highways. The only change they ple’s homes for their safety. To them, Chairman Mao is kind bring is more noise from cars and trucks, day and night. of a god,” she tells us. There is little promise here – there has been no water on Further along the road’s western stretch, we catch the the north mountain in recent years. We can’t plant anything, first physical evidence of the Seventh Ring. On a huge sign, we only dig wells.” some ten meters above the road, red characters are set The poverty is starkly apparent. Many buildings are rein- against a backdrop of Zhuozhou’s city forced with an outer layer of dried manure and most of the planning photo proclaiming: ‘Beijing villagers earn less than RMB10,000 West Seventh Ring Road’. a year, even with a good harvest. Unbeknown to us at the time, this With drought worsening, many will be the only physical recognition of have abandoned farming and in- the project that we encounter. While stead migrate elsewhere for work. As the villagers gather for “Beijing West Seventh Ring Road”

31 Journeys Along the Seventh Ring A church in the remote catholic village of Huangtugang dominates the Hebei skyline

32 Cover Story “I don’t know how long people here have followed Catholicism, but I was told by my grandfather that his grandfather was also Catholic, so it must be a very long time”

33 Journeys Along the Seventh Ring Catholic villager Mrs Zhao at her home in Huangtugang (above) where religious imagery is proudly displayed (right)

evensong we do not see a single young face family portraits – includ- and it is only at a nearby supply shop where ing many of a priest – with we find anyone of working age. The chemi- depictions of Jesus and cal plant on the other side of the highway other religious imagery has fallen into disuse, meaning the nearest symbolizing their piety. factory is now some 47 kilometers away in Zhao’s mother, who Xuanhua. For those unable to make the jour- sits on the kang, has had ney, livelihoods must instead depend on the difficulty speaking since falling ill last year. year’s rainfall. She expresses herself through gestures, occa- “I am in my late But while poor, the villagers are some sionally putting her hands together in prayer of the most cheerful characters that we en- during the conversation. Her husband reads 80s but I am not counter on the journey. Outside Zhao’s gate, the Bible every day. a group of old women sit out on the steps en- “For me, religion gives courage,” Zhao’s afraid of death. I joying the sunshine and early autumn breeze. father says. “I am in my late 80s but I am not A few meters away, middle-aged men engross afraid of death. I believe that if I put my faith believe that if I put themselves in a game of Chinese chess. The in God and do good things when I am alive, villagers may be somewhat cautious of out- then when I die, I won’t suffer pain.” my faith in God siders – we are not allowed into the church For the people of Huangtugang, the out- service – but they are more forthcoming with side world was, until recently, a place behind and do good things their homes. the mountains and beyond the horizon. The “Come in, please don’t mind the mess,” village existed unnoticed, its inhabitants when I am alive, Zhao says, seemingly embarrassed by his practicing their religion, living and dying in simple house as he ushers us in. relative isolation. Now part of the highway then when I die, I There are two small buildings in his yard – scenery, the Seventh Ring cuts through one one old and one evidently newer – each with of its corners, exposing it to all beyond. won’t suffer pain” three rooms. In one, a hearth is set beside a We depart with good wishes and gifts of wall connected to a kang, a heated bed com- fruit. While on this occasion, Huangtugang’s monly used in northern China. In the other, visibility only lured inquisitive outsiders, it three tanks, each over a meter high, store remains to be seen whether threats to its water in case the village loses its supply. The way of life accompany the completion of them. The short remainder of the road to walls are decorated with classical images of the Seventh Ring. Beijing needs more land Zhangjiakou reveals what urban planners flowers and birds, but religion is the domi- to expand and the people here have no say hope will become of Hebei – a row of power p nant theme of the decor. Photo frames bear in the urbanization that is creeping toward plants exhaling smoke into the sunset.

34 Cover Story Zhangjiakou come central to Zhangjiakou’s renewed sense floor, at the reduced price of RMB300 and a of self. Few people we talk with during our complimentary round of beers. 张家口 visit express doubt over the city’s chances of It is a Tuesday night but the club is full securing the Games – while a small number, to capacity. A singer dressed in a red fur coat, Olympic Bargain like our hotel receptionist, appear convinced leather trousers, chunky gold chains and a the city has already won. studded cod piece, performs in front of a or decades, Zhangjiakou was regarded With enthusiasm so high, competing young, fashionably dressed crowd. Bottles as something of a backwater – a low- bids from Oslo and Almaty barely register, of Chivas Regal and green tea are ferried be- F level administrative city, where less- the common consensus being that only the tween tables and the music is thumping – a fortunate PLA generals would be forced to Chinese government has the political will to relentless mix of hard techno beats and EDM spend their winters, scanning the horizon deliver the Winter Olympics. Confidence is club bangers. Two brightly-adorned circus for signs of invasion. high among investors Today, with the threat of a surprise too, many of whom “Zhangjiakou is not as developed as Russian attack long since past, Zhangjiakou have begun buying up is attempting to redefine its image. Although land in preparation of Beijing yet – but it’s not as pressured still home to the colossal 65th Group – one of the Games’ arrival. either. There is more freedom. Young the three large-scale military units assigned At the two-story to protect Beijing – the ‘gate of the north’, as Tianlai nightclub, no- people here are good at having fun” it was once known, now invites visitors to one mentions the bid di- enter into the city via a succession of ornate rectly, though evidence European-style bridges. A gritty garrison of its effects are soon made clear. While the clowns wander the club on stilts, handing town this is not. manager appears taken aback at the prospect out balloon animals, while above the dance Driving under the flashing neon lights of foreigners entering his club, he is equally floor, skimpily dressed female podium danc- of the downtown area, we are met with the quick to assure us of its “international repu- ers work the crowd. Unlike similar clubs in first of several large signs proudly announc- tation” – and by extension, the relatively low Beijing – where all too often, people seem ing the city’s joint bid with Beijing to host the cost of the RMB1,000 table fee required to set content to affect an air of aloofness from be- 2022 Winter Olympics. Dismissed by many foot inside. Eventually, after much negotiation, hind a ‘VIP’ table – almost everyone at Tianlai outside China as audacious, the bid has be- we are ushered to a table next to the dance appears eager to dance.

Enthusiasm for Zhangjiakou’s bid to co-host the 2022 Winter Olympics can be seen across the city

35 Journeys Along the Seventh Ring “Young people come here to let loose after most people here in Zhangjiakou can’t afford offices of the local government. work,” explains 23-year-old Wang Wei, the to use it – and maybe never will.” Wang is awaiting our arrival at the en- club’s floor manager. His colleague, a bar- Bowie, who also serves as a delegate to trance of the hotel. A tall, slender man in his man who goes by the single English name the CPPCC (the Chinese People's Political mid-30s, with a firm handshake and a shrewd ‘Diamond’, agrees: “Zhangjiakou is not as de- Consultative Conference), fails to buy into grin, Wang seems at ease in our presence and veloped as Beijing yet – but it’s not as pres- the much lauded ‘trickle down’ argument leads our group through the hotel to a private sured either. There is more freedom. Young that increased tourism would benefit ordi- restaurant on the top floor. people here are good at having fun.” nary citizens. The restaurant is lavishly decorated – and As the night wears on, the crowd slowly “Officials like to say that we are ‘Beijing’s the menu expensive. But Wang assures us not filters out into the nearby parking lot, where backyard.’ I don't like that definition. Our to worry, we are his guests. He encourages us lines of BMWs, Mercedes and Audis await. city’s slogans are all about how to ‘serve to order whatever we like, and instructs the We decide to head back to our hotel and flag Beijing’. Beijing takes all our water. Locals waitresses to bring in some cold beer (“it’s too down a taxi. There are too many of us for a here today can’t farm rice, because there is early for baijiu”). After several days eating in single car but our driver – a towering man no longer enough water, so instead they grow roadside diners and second-tier snack-stops, of Mongolian heritage – seems unconcerned. corn. In the summer, the government cuts the sudden change of scenery feels somewhat He pretends not to notice as five passengers our water supply even more – why? Because surreal. squeeze into four seats and as we pull away, Beijing’s water supply is more important. It’s As we prepare to sit down, Wang intro- he begins to sing. His voice has a melancholic the same with power too. The huge power duces us to a third friend, Liu, a “big time” quality that quiets our drunken conversation stations you saw on your way into town do Shanxi steel broker with an elaborate dragon and for the rest of the journey we travel in not generate power for people here – it is for sleeve tattoo and an outsized chunky gold silence. Beijing. And yet all the pollution the power watch. A reticent character, he remains sus- We get up early the following morning stations create stays right here in Zhangjiakou. piciously mute throughout the encounter. The and head to the local market to buy some breakfast – the sight of several foreigners in a neighborhood rarely visited by tourists, prompts several vendors to ask us if we’re linked somehow to the Olympics. It is bustling and the produce fresh; many of those here are from nearby villages – their rural wares a marked contrast to the shim- mering new buildings that form the market’s backdrop. The vendors appear keen to talk, with many telling us of the changes that have taken place. “I've been in Zhangjiakou for ten years in total,” says Sun Wei, leaning over a pile of cauli- flower. “Not so long ago, where we are today was all fields. The changes have been good for us ordinary people. There are more job opportunities and higher wages. General living conditions are improving too. When I started out, ten years ago, I made just 400 yuan a month, today I can earn as much as 2,000.” On the way back, we encounter 36-year-old Liu Boyu, the principal of a nearby English language school, and part-time snowboarding in- Despite optimism about the Olympics, Liu Boyu, or ‘Bowie’, bemoans the negative impact Beijing has on his hometown, Zhangjiakou structor. Despite his passion for winter sports, Liu, who requests that we call The relationship is uneven. Beijing is the em- two are business partners, explains Wang, him ‘Bowie’ (“I love Ziggy Stardust!”) views peror, we are the servants.” and together they are planning the develop- the Olympic bid – and the changes it might After spending much of the morning with ment of a new ski resort. bring, with a certain trepidation. Bowie, he invites us to join him for lunch “We have bought the right to develop “There’s no reason to think it will be a good alongside his friend, Wang, a former mining two mountains, between here and Chongli,” thing” he begins. “Aside from fame, I don't magnate turned real estate developer. explains Wang, lighting a cigarette. “We are know what hosting the games would bring We travel by car across town, stopping waiting for the approval from the government us ordinary citizens. The skiing facilities are briefly to admire the city’s immaculately to go ahead – all building is suspended until some of the best in China. But who does it manicured central square, before arriving at July next year [when the IOC announces the serve exactly? Yes, it creates a few jobs, but a newly built hotel, not far from the head winning host city of the 2022 Olympics], after

36 Cover Story Former mining magnate, Wang, raises a toast at a luxury hotel restaurant “Our city’s slogans are all about how to ‘serve Beijing’... The relationship is uneven. Beijing is the emperor, we are the servants”

which the government will create a plan of Wang was never compensated for the forced er elite now face a dilemma: move closer to how to develop the area.” closure. Beijing, and risk having their local monopo- As the food arrives – plates of classic deli- The experience taught Wang to be weary lies broken up – or retreat, and miss out on cacies including steamed mandarin fish and of the capital – “You can’t fully trust Beijing,” the potentially lucrative opportunities made braised duck tongue – Wang tells us how he he says at one point. possible by increased development. came to be in his current position. But as Wang openly admits, his new For the moment, however, Wang remains A self-made man, with a large property mountain resort remains dependent on unperturbed by the changes ahead, and we portfolio, Wang entered the mining business Beijing’s backing – specifically its support join him in a toast to “new friends”. in his early twenties, opening his first mine for the Olympic bid – without which his ven- Later in the day, as we drive out of several years later, though he never discloses ture will likely remain in the planning stages. Zhangjiakou, we pass the ‘old square’ where exactly how. He shakes off the apparent contradic- elaborate Olympic-themed decorations are For a while, business was good. But then, tion. “We don’t need Beijing – Beijing needs being arranged under the city’s last remaining midway through last year – the government us. Where else are they going to ski?” statue of Chairman Mao. The Olympics are ordered that all mining operations be halted, There is perhaps some truth in that, but coming, they appear intent on announcing. p as part of a Hebei-wide initiative to improve it appears to us that having reached a certain The Olympics are coming..? the local environment. According to Bowie, level of prosperity, Zhangjiakou’s new pow-

37 Journeys Along the Seventh Ring Chongli 崇礼 If You Build it They Will Come

angshang village lies less than 30 minutes drive from Zhangjiakou, very close to us will be a part of the Seventh Ring Road,” says Wang’s though for all the similarity the two possess they could be at friend, who walks over to join the conversation. “If Beijing can integrate Y separate ends of the country. At the entrance we meet 68-year- us, it will be the best thing that ever happened here – we will be able old former village secretary, Wang Zhanmei. to sell our vegetables to people in the city.” “Four tons of vegetables around Zhangjiakou and Chongli have Near to the village, work continues apace on the Zhang-Cheng been left to rot in the fields,” he says, pointing to the mass of untended highway – the so-called ‘northern roof’ of the Seventh Ring. It has been crops. “Last year, the price of beans was 4.8 yuan per kilogram – very raining a lot and the project is behind. Crane operator Yang Bao, 38, high – and so this year, all the farmers decided to grow beans. But tells us how he can expect to make around RMB150 per hour. Though this year’s price is just 0.8 yuan, the income won’t even cover the he stresses it is not nearly as much as truck drivers. expenses,” he explains. “I have been working as a crane operator for almost 10 years and Most of the villagers have since left in desperation, hoping to find last year I finally collected enough money to buy my own crane,” says work in the city. Yet despite this year’s bad crop, Wang remains hope- Yang, who believes that there will be more projects around Chongli ful about the future. in the coming years. As he points out, the village is changing. The once muddy road Construction on the highway began last April and is scheduled to has been paved; households now have running water (although vil- finish next October. However, Yang prefers to work on a temporary lagers still prefer water from their spring); street lights were installed contract in case better opportunities suddenly arise. last year; and all anybody wants to talk about is the Winter Olympics. “Chongli is different every day. There is money out there, if you “I think I am so lucky that it will take place when I am still alive,” want to earn it. I have land too but I rent it out. There’s no money to says Wang. “I think the Olympics will make our lives better. I imagine be made in farming the lands. Even during a good year the maximum foreigners from around the world will come and 10 years later, we will you might earn is 10,000 yuan,” says Yang, pointing to abandoned fields move to a house with two floors.” alongside the construction site. “The government paid farmers here Others in the village talk excitedly of the possibility of further 22,000 yuan for each acre they needed for the highway. Most of them p integration with Beijing. “I heard the Zhang-Cheng highway which is are happy and, besides, the highway will bring us all good fortune.”

38 Cover Story Chicheng 赤城 Welcome to Christmas Town

t is Christmas day when we arrive in Chicheng. Or so proclaims with Beijing. Song is from one of Chicheng county’s villages, though the digital calendar at the entrance of our hotel. As the first for- he now rents a small apartment in the town for RMB1,000 a month. I eign guests to ever stay here, perhaps we are the only ones to find “I have no choice. In the countryside, there are no jobs, but in the amusement in the error. town, I can’t even afford my own apartment.” It is actually early September, though we could have been fooled. Song is skeptical about the future. People in his village believe that Aside from being noticeably colder by night than in Beijing, the entire the Seventh Ring will make their lives easier, but since leaving, he has length of the river that runs through the center of the city is draped begun to see things differently. “Take the housing price for example, in fluorescent lights. Lampposts, railings and bridges all pulsate with the more the place develops, the more us poor people suffer. We are luminescent shades of red, green and purple that shoot out across always left behind,” he says. the water’s surface. Beside the river, a giant multi-colored LED screen Manually shoveling soil with a spade for more than 10 hours at displays the message: “It is our responsibility to protect our river town’s a time, seven days a week, Song earns just RMB100 a day. The pipes water!” he unearths carry one of the region’s most precious commodities – By nightfall, the town may be practically empty, save for a few water. But despite its abundance, drought is evident in this part of solitary fishermen, but it appears remarkably festive. Even the sur- the province. rounding mountains have been colorfully lit with the phrase ‘green We pass the nearby Yunzhou reservoir which is filled with water water and city with sunset clouds’ (which sounds a great deal more bound for Beijing. A local saying states that one in every two glasses poetic in Chinese). of water in the capital comes from Chicheng. This may not be strictly Daytime reveals the harsher realities of life in Beijing’s so-called true, but there are reservoirs in Beijing which take more than 50 per- ‘poverty belt’. The county in which Chicheng is situated (and shares cent of their water from three of the county’s rivers. its name with), remains one of the poorest in Hebei. It is reported A few kilometers out of town we chance upon a potato farm that 35 villages in the area have an average annual income of less than nestled between rows of maize. The irrigation ditch beside it is com- RMB1,227 per person. The main town’s riverside strip may have been gentrified, but just behind the new-build facade lie dilapidated, single-story buildings that “Look at the corn fields... No corn, form the reality for most of the 30,000 or so residents. just stalks. They are dying from Here the rural and urban co-exist in awkward union. Many of the trappings of modernity are present — new cars and drought. The water is all sold to aspirational consumer goods on faded advertising boards. But just as the town’s Chongli skiing resorts. They don’t river flows rapidly at the center while sitting stagnant at either bank, the changes in Chicheng appear to be unfolding at care if we farmers need water” varying speeds. Men in straw hats lead donkeys past high-street fashion stores selling items that would have, until recently, been unobtainable luxuries. pletely dry. The area has suffered in recent years, explains farm boss On the roof top of a new building, a man unfurls a banner advertising Po Yanlin, who says that last winter, water was siphoned away to pro- face creams, while below, a woman wearing an eye patch sells water- duce fake snow at local ski resorts frequented by Beijing’s burgeoning melons from the back of a wooden cart. middle class. The town clearly benefits in some way from its proximity to Beijing, “Look at the corn fields,” says 64-year-old farmer turned potato- but what does it stand to gain, or lose, from being pulled further into picker Wang Ziyou. “No corn, just stalks. They are dying from drought. the capital’s orbit? All the water is all sold to Chongli skiing resorts. They don’t care if Outside the newly opened Wanhe Shopping Mall, 50-year-old we farmers need water.” Mu, owner of the city’s first cosmetic store, is explaining the differ- The farm workers here, like elsewhere in China, all own small plots ences between Lancôme and Estée Lauder to his two young female of land, but the lure of a stable income and the risk of drought outweigh employees. Since opening several months ago, Mu’s store has failed the potential gains. They rent their land to Po and richer villagers who to attract many customers. then sell the produce to urban consumers. Po pays them each a salary “Every day I am losing money on rent, salaries and waste prod- and uses his motorized ploughs to dig up the potatoes, leaving the ucts,” he explains. “But it’s my strategy, I believe there will be a big farmers to stoop in the searing sun and collect them up into sacks. market here thanks to the Olympic Games and the Seventh Ring. The “This way I can at least get 500 yuan for renting out each acre Olympics only last for a month, but the highway, once finished, will of land,” says farmer Wang. “Plus I earn 70 yuan a day working here. attract more factories and companies.” What else can I do? In the countryside, old men have to work until But alongside opportunity comes the threat of the county’s rising they can’t move any more. I am very appreciative of the government house prices, which in 2011, almost doubled. With land costs on the for giving us 55 yuan a month after the age of 60, but that is barely Seventh Ring's route already jumping significantly in some areas since enough for food.” its announcement, the problem will only worsen if the road cannot As with the county’s water, agriculture here also serves the capi- bring equivalent rises in income. tal’s insatiable appetite — in this instance, for fries. While Chicheng’s Song Weining, 52, is helping to install underground piping outside main town must make do with a counterfeit fast food outlet MDC the Wanhe Shopping Mall. He is frustrated by what he considers to be (that combines KFC’s font with an all-too-familiar clown mascot), the uneven distribution of wealth generated by increased interaction this farm’s produce will be sold to McDonalds in Beijing, explains Po.

39 Journeys Along the Seventh Ring Farmers amid rows of broccoli in Chicheng County 41 Journeys Along the Seventh Ring Chicheng County, to the north of Beijing, is home to 35 villages with an average annual income of less than RMB1,227 per person

42 Cover Story Currently Chicheng County’s relation- tury, Fengning’s history has long been tied main junction, we see the most pervasive ship with the capital appears one-sided. Water, with that of Manchuria. After conquering sight of our journey across the Seventh Ring: agriculture and talent all flow out from the the capital, many low-ranking Manchu sol- a building under construction. Development area, with little returning, aside from a small diers remained in the county to develop the is endemic here too. In the past two years, share of the profits. The arrival of the Seventh land. The story of how the town was named more than ten residential compounds were Ring Road may simply increase the ease with is carved into a huge stone tablet in the built in this town of less than 15 square kil- which the area can be exploited for its natural town’s busy main square, where we find Liu ometers. assets. Zongguo, 73, returning home with his grocer- A short walk away, we find more cranes But conversely, increased connectiv- ies. The retired factory manager expresses his parked in a construction site. But there are ity with Beijing may help the area become disappointment that people here, even the no workers here. Hubei native Huang Chaofu, more than just a source of food and water older generation, can barely speak or read who is unemployed and out enjoying the sun, for the capital. If the Beijing-Tianjin-Hebei their ancestors’ language. In fact, fewer than tells us that the project is in trouble. Two days megalopolis comes to fruition, it will be ac- 70 native or semi-speakers of the language previously, a worker threatened to jump from companied by more shared decision-making remain. the building in protest for having not been and planning policies which should, in theory, “Here, most shops have bilingual signs,” he paid his year’s salary. The local government ensure that resources are better distributed says, pointing to a small ice cream store bear- paid the bill to buy his silence, Huang claims, across the region. ing markings of the near-extinct language. though the development has now been stalled. “This year, the government helped us dig “But sadly none of us can read it. We did not “In a small town like this, you don’t see the some wells to solve the water problem. Of value our own culture and the country did not darkness behind the prosperous face,” he says. course, you need to pay to get water. I am very make the same effort to preserve it as they did Dependant on a crutch to walk and blind optimistic about this year’s business,” says Po, for the Mongolians, Tibetans and Uighurs.” in one eye following an accident last year at who claims he can earn up to a million yuan Just as their language was incorporated a local coal mine, 30-something Huang en- from his potato business during a good year. into today’s putonghua, the Manchus’ pro- joys slightly better treatment. Despite having “I pay more attention to the future. People cess of conquer and assimilation left them never signed a formal employment contract, only notice things like rising living costs. But with few remnants of their unique culture. the mine’s boss provides him with RMB8,000 at the same time, the more industries come Although Fengning was granted autonomous a month for treatment and living expenses. in, the more jobs are created and the more county status in 1987 – ostensibly to help pre- This is far from the million yuan he hopes for. open the city is to the outside world.” serve its traditions – there is scant evidence “If I get the money, I will leave this place We continue along the Ring’s northern of history in the town. immediately. But I know the boss’ situation. stretch, past silver birches, wild hemp and At the distinctly ‘pan-China’ Intangible Many mines have their minerals heaped up long-neglected terraces carved into moun- Cultural Heritage Museum, images of Mao there because there is no market right now. tainside. This beautiful and comparatively and Lei Feng feature more prominently than The housing market is also full of bubbles,” remote area is perhaps the poorest on our any of the Qing emperors. We are enthusi- Huang tells us. route and the one most in need of the wealth astically shown to an exhibition floor where Economic concerns appear to take prec- diffusing outwards from Beijing. Critics of the artifacts progress through time from prehis- edence over cultural ones. Back in the town Seventh Ring believe that it may exacerbate tory before abruptly stopping at the 1500s, square, Liu Zongguo, who earlier shared the development gap between the capital just as the Manchus were coming to rule. The his dismay about the loss of the Manchu and surrounding areas. It is in counties like ‘Manchu Heritage Village’, a little outside the Chicheng where the strategy’s wisdom will town, tries a little harder. But it is clearly for p be most evidently put to test. tourists in search of horses, bows and arrows. The village employees no doubt change from their Manchu clothing as soon as their shift ends. But while the preservation of Manchu Fengning culture feels somewhat futile, a certain yearn- ing exists nonetheless – even among the 丰宁 young. We stop at a roadside wedding and, as the couple pass beneath a banner reading Once Were Warriors ‘I Love You’ in English, the bride’s sister tells us: “I hope that [Fengning] can develop and, at the same time, preserve Manchu culture.” he notion of a Manchu Autonomous Little cannons fire confetti into the air and the County may conjure images of horses, eruption of firecrackers sends guests ducking T grasslands and ethnic clothing. But, in for cover. The flowing white bridal dress and appearance at least, Fengning’s main county tiara, like the entire ceremony, are not exactly town appears little different from others in steeped in Manchurian tradition. Hebei. Ethnic distinctions can, we are told, be This is not to say that all Western trends spotted by a trained eye (and moustaches are have caught on with such vigor. Our attempt more prominent), but aside from speaking a to order cafe lattes at a nearby ice cream shop more ‘standard’ Mandarin, it is not always instigates visible panic among the employees, easy to differentiate. According to official three of whom stand around the high tech estimates, around two-thirds of the county’s silver coffee machine in bemusement. After 380,000 residents are Manchu (a figure sup- over ten minutes of prodding, debate and dis- ported by our wiry hotelier), though everyone appearing into the backroom, two drinks are that we speak to in the town, without excep- produced. We are told that the store has no tion, claims Manchu heritage. milk, but we are assured that these are lattes. As one of the most important stopovers We take our black-coffee-with-unknown- for the ethnically Manchu Qing Dynasty as milk-substitute and return to the one of the they descended on Beijing in the 17th cen- town’s busier streets. Protruding from the

43 Journeys Along the Seventh Ring language, hopes that the Seventh Ring can help Fengning replicate the development found in Langfang, the first city we visited. “It will be great if the Seventh Ring Road brings more industries, like in Langfang, which used to be very poor but now has a booming economy,” says Liu who, along with his wife, lives on a pension of around RMB5,000. Everybody will benefit from the economy’s development. In ten years time, I am sure there will be huge changes in this city. The highway will bring in everything.” Liu’s hope that prosperity can be better spread through the region is echoed by 58-year-old government employee, Li Hua, who we find a few meters beyond him in the square. “Fengning cannot compare with Beijing at all, not even with Langfang. Huairou District [in Beijing] is only 18 kilometers away – they’re as different as heaven and earth,” he says. The gap between Fengning and the capital is clear. We are told that the highest housing price here is less than RMB6,000 per square meter, less than a fifth of the average price in Beijing. Civil servants in Fengning can expect an average of RMB2,700 per month – significantly lower than the starting salary of their Beijing counterparts. Meanwhile, farmers here receive a state subsidy of just RMB55 a month, rather than the RMB350 enjoyed less than 20 kilometers away. But the move towards an integrated megalopolis – the wider project that the Ring Road epitomizes – is already having an impact here, some locals claim. Fengning’s beef, mutton and vegetables are sold to the capital, and companies from Beijing are buying land at the provincial border to set up business. There is optimism that the town can catch up with its neighbors. Small business owner Zhang Guiqing, 52, takes a break from his game of badminton to share his hopes for the town’s future. Sporting a counterfeit Liverpool soccer jersey, he is positive about rumors of a high-speed rail link and explains that ties with the capital are already expanding. “As I’ve long expected, the Seventh Ring Road will go through Fengning. Beijing has no other choice than to expand to our small places. It is exploding – too much noise, pollution and pressure from overpopulation. Beijingers are coming here for our clean air, water and comfortable climate. In summer, cars with Beijing plates are even blocking the road to the grasslands,” he declares proudly. Given that the Manchus once swarmed down to take Beijing, there is a certain irony in the fact that they may soon be consumed by the capital. What’s more, as we pass a crowded square on our way from the town, it transpires that the once fierce warriors are now also willing conscripts to the Chinese army. Around 100 youths, most in their late teens, stand in line with red flowers attached to their military uniforms. Hordes of family members stand around them, holding their hands and, in some cases, wiping tears. These newly recruited soldiers are bound for military camps in cities like Beijing, Tianjin and Shijiazhuang for a minimum of two years. A red carpet is laid out on the stage in preparation for a speech by the leaders of the county’s military office, who recruit new soldiers here twice a year. Loud songs with lyrics that include “being a soldier protecting the nation is the biggest honor” play repeatedly. A banner hung above the parade instructs: “Join the army using your cultural knowledge to show the true color of men,” and reminds the young A power station in Chengde conscripts that their loyalty to the army will “repay the motherland provides the backdrop to the for her kindness.” Haichao Amusement Park As conscription is voluntary in China, all have made a careful Chengde and mature decision, says Mrs Ma, whose 19-year-old son is among the recruits. 承德 “Most families want to send their son to the army if he is not attending university. It’s a good choice,” she says. “First, it gets him The Tourist some exercise, both physical and mental, and after he comes back it Factory will benefit his future career.” Prospects remain limited for young people in Fengning. The economy is significantly stunted when compared to that of the capital, or even other stops along the Ring Road. The expansion of Beijing is likely to further erode ethnic identities in this Manchu county. But the opportunities that it brings may, for many, make this a sacrifice p worth making.

44 Cover Story number of the stops along the Seventh Ring have, until now, Despite the city’s apparent success in attracting tourists, the pros- existed away from the capital, each in varying degrees of iso- pect of integration with Beijing bringing in new customers is welcome, A lation. But movement between Beijing and Chengde, on the says 45-year-old Cong, who sells trinkets outside the 18th Century route’s northeastern tip, enjoys a long and important history. The Putuo Zongcheng temple complex, which was modeled on Tibet’s city’s Mountain Resort — a colossal collection of palaces, gardens and Potala Palace. pavilions — acted as a summer residence for Qing Dynasty emperors “There are only seven to eight weeks of tourism a year but the before falling out of favor in 1861, when the Emperor Xianfeng died management of the industry is getting stricter, which means it’s harder there and irreversibly damaged its feng shui in the process. for me to make money,” says Cong. “Last year, a regulation was imple- Consequently, the city has become one of Hebei’s most popular mented preventing tour guides from taking tourists to unregulated sou- tourist destinations. One of the province’s three UNESCO World venir shops to gain commission,” he explains. “Hopefully the Seventh Heritage sites, Chengde appears to be booming, even without the con- Ring will mean more tourists, not only Chinese, but also foreigners, nectivity that the Ring Road will offer. The number of annual visitors who are more likely to visit my stand without a guide.” stood at 24 million in 2013, more than three times as many as in 2009. But not all attractions in Chengde are quite so steeped in history.

45 Journeys Along the Seventh Ring Nor are they so successful in luring visitors. Xinglong On the outskirts of the city we stop at the near-deserted Haichao Amusement Park, a 兴隆 rather depressing collection of merry-go- rounds and rides that periodically grind into Happy Hardcore life, most of their seats unoccupied. Business at the funfair has been variable, according to one of its employees, 20-year-old Wei he power stations adorned with neon Rongzhi. lights on the road to Xinglong should “At first, crowds of people came here every T have hinted at the mild lunacy that day. Right now, students have to go back to would reveal itself in the city by day. Because school, so we are going through the quiet although it is barely past 8am, the sound of season. But business will go up during the happy hardcore (one of the more demented holidays. Also, people from Beijing, Tianjin genres of dance music) is pumping relent- and Shijiazhuang will come here,” he says lessly through the main parade. Yet people are hopefully. going about their business as normal, seem- Ostensibly, the creation of the Seventh ingly unaware of the contradiction between Ring is less likely to make a difference to their mundane morning stroll and the intense places like Chengde that are already easily rave soundtrack that accompanies it. reached from the capital by road and rail. The square is markedly oblong and large- While opening access to other places in Hebei ly empty, though the surrounding streets are will undoubtedly boost tourist numbers to lively enough. A butcher lays out raw meat an extent, it may have little impact on the on the back of a motorized tricycle alongside most sizeable group of outside sightseers — vendors selling walnuts (a local specialty) and Beijingers. loose, dried tobacco (a rarity on the streets But despite the city’s reputation as a sum- of northern China). Their corner of the city mer getaway, in 2013 the service industries is not as dilapidated as the old town through accounted for less than one-third of the econ- which we enter. But the smell of urine — so omy, according to the Chengde Statistical gloriously absent in our journey thus far — re- Bureau, which puts farming at 16.5 percent turns in short bursts, momentarily revealing and heavy industry at 51.1 percent. Stray from itself at alley openings before being masked the imperial attractions and you find a sprawl- once more by wafts of street food. Moving down a narrow street to escape ing three-and-half million-person urban area, As we enter the final leg of our trip, it from the noise, we meet 53-year-old “Walnut” littered with factories and distribution ware- seems fitting that Xinglong feels the most like Liu, a handyman who repairs shoes, buttons, houses. Indeed, the immediate skyline behind being back in Beijing. Urban scowls pass us zippers and keys. But he is more famous in the amusement park is dominated by cooling through a filter of what appears to be toxic the town as an expert on the walnuts that towers that billow foreboding fumes into the smog; plastic bottles are stacked and prepared grow wild in the nearby mountains. afternoon sky. for recycling; loud looped voices advertise Although Xinglong is rich in nuts of all Elsewhere, the areas away from the their wares through crackled speakers. varieties, it is the wild walnut – rough, thick Summer Resort appear largely residential, After five days of leniency toward police and dark – for which it is well known. Above with new housing developments alluding registration, we are forced to stay in one of Liu’s tool kit are two such specimens, claimed to Western luxury and boasting titles like only two hotels permitted to accept foreign- by Liu to be worth RMB1,000 for the pair. Beverly Hills and Tuscany. As with many of the places we visit, Chengde seems to be expecting an influx. But from where? Critics of increased intergration have ex- “I never think about my future. It’s pressed fears that creating a Beijing-Tianjin- Hebei megalopolis would only serve to at- too complicated and who knows tract more migrants from elsewhere in China rather than relieving overpopulation in the capital. what will happen, even tomorrow?” We find one such example in a Xinjiang restaurant on the west side of the city. Li Feng, 21, moved to Chengde from Beijing ers (our laowai tax does not provide WiFi, “At first finding nice walnuts and selling with his best friend last month for a more though facilities include table tennis and an them to people was just a habit. But now, comfortable life. Originally from Gansu, Li ominous-sounding ‘disinfection chamber’). word has spread and rich businessmen from spent three years working in a restaurant in Nonetheless, we are still far enough away Beijing seek me out – they like to grind the Beijing’s Xidan area and renting a basement from the capital’s corporate gaze for an ‘Apple’ walnuts in their hands to relieve stress,” says in Fengtai District for a few hundred yuan clothes store and two fake McDonalds to Liu, as he fixes a woman’s jacket zipper for each month. stand shamelessly in the heart of town. Inside a comparatively paltry RMB5. “But still my “Beijing is good but everybody wants one of the latter (which even has a low-quality main job is repairing things. As life improves, to have a share of the good life,” says Li. “It reprint of the fast food chain’s menu) we find fewer people ask for repairs – they’d rather turned out to be a very harsh life for me. 23-year-old Liang Ce who knows nothing buy something new instead.” What I earned in Beijing is not enough to about the Seventh Ring Road. He seems ut- Liu is worried about the future. He can’t rent an apartment. While here, I pay about terly disinterested in its potential impact and, walk without the aid of a crutch due to polio. 1,000 yuan and can afford a nice apartment more generally, his own future. “I’ve spent ten years applying to the lo- with good air. Plus the work is not busy. I “I never think about my future. It’s too cal government for disability allowance, but think more people will make the same deci- complicated and who knows what will hap- they always tell me: ‘There are other people p sion and move here in the future.” pen, even tomorrow?” he says. ahead of you – more important people – who

46 Cover Story Residents of Xinglong go about their morning business to the sound of intense rave music we can’t reject’. But most of these important might be the very model of a city to lure mi- Many of the stops on our journey look set people aren’t disabled – one of them owns grants away from the capital. to benefit from increased links with Beijing, a two cars!” Its existing residents also have much to city upon which they heavily rely. The indus- We express surprise that a healthy person gain from the Seventh Ring. Not least because try, investment and opportunity that could would knowingly steal money from the disa- the roads entering and leaving the city are the flow toward them may transform the lives bled. Liu looks on scornfully, “You are from most dangerous we encounter; the former for of people for whom the capital is currently the city. You’re educated and idealistic. You their lack of streetlights, the latter for their a drain. can’t understand the cruel game in poorer lack of asphalt (and the mountain drop that For others whose isolation has thus far Chinese cities like Xinglong.” awaits those who misjudge it). proven beneficial, the prospects could be less Not everyone shares Liu’s pessimism, After successfully navigating said perils, encouraging. What’s more, if the Beijing- however. Just as the physical beauty of the the final leg of our journey through Sanhe Tianjin-Hebei megalopolis only serves to Ring’s northern stretch belies its poverty, the and Pinggu sees the last vestiges of green give move all that is undesirable out of Beijing, it grimaces and glumness of Xinglong disguise way to Beijing’s urban sprawl. We pull over will be those living along the road’s route that a certain positivity about life in the city. Many at a dusty truck stop. It is these men whose bear the burden. who we speak with praise the quality of life daily lives will be most affected by the Ring The plan ultimately revolves around the and, in particular, the clean air. This is not Road, in a physical sense at least. need to relieve the unsustainable pressures on pollution hanging over us today, we are told, “I hope with the Seventh Ring Road it will the capital. What is less clear is whether the but simply a mountain fog that the area is be less crowded,” says 47-year-old Ma Huijun surrounding areas become mutual beneficiar- p renowned for. as he makes repairs to his truck. A Sanhe na- ies or necessary victims of Beijing’s growth. As if to further remind us that appear- tive, Ma has been transporting goods from ances can be deceptive, a doorway leading Beijing to nearby cities in Hebei for 20 years. from the square takes us away from crazed He tells us how, before the creation of the thumping techno music to a tranquil, debris- Sixth Ring Road, the journey which now takes strewn atrium where a middle-aged man is three hours could take up to two days. teaching two children to play the erhu (a two- “Highways are the blood vessels of an stringed fiddle). economy. I believe it’s the wisest thing to The peaceful interlude is shattered as we invest money in.” pass back onto the road. A hard dance remix Our return to the familiarity of Beijing of the ‘Crazy Frog’ song has commenced and brings into perspective the sheer variety of it is difficult to know whether to laud or la- what we have encountered. The route of the ment this as a possible future for small cities Seventh Ring Road passes through fertile g like Chicheng, that we visited earlier. mountains and expansive farmland, impov- Ultimately however, creating urban areas erished villages and thriving cities. But per- A more complete version in Hebei that people actually want to live in haps most varied are the views of the people of this feature, including many more images is the biggest challenge facing government whose lives will be affected. They express and nine short documentary videos, planners if they are to reduce the pressure on optimism, cynicism, indifference and, often, will be available online in the coming weeks. Beijing. With its coming transport infrastruc- a complete lack of awareness about what the Visit www.online.thatsmags.com or ture and apparent quality of life, Xinglong road may bring. follow us on Twitter @thats_beijing for more details.

47 Journeys Along the Seventh Ring grapevine

nibbles pick of three: Hairy Crab dishes

Marathons, often painful ordeals for thousands, are something that tend to eliminate fine dining not encourage it. Or rather, we thought they were, until we heard about the Marathon du Médoc in France, where racers pass scenic vineyards and refuel with oysters and fine wine. With that in mind (and less tenuous thematic ideas for this column most definitely not) we present a gastronomic endurance race right here in Beijing. As well as an obligatory DIN TAI FUNG WU LI XIANG SHANGHAI MIN carbo-boosting roadside jian bing (or as they call it in France, DTF’s crabs are sourced from the The Traders Upper East Hotel’s Tang dynasty poet Li Bai wrote un crêpe… or as they might call famous Yancheng Lake, before flagship restaurant serves a range of the delights of this seasonal it at the new El Gran Bocado being wrapped in their signature of hairy crab dishes, including a delicacy – try the classic steamed Shunyi, el taco), we’d load up xiaolongbao dumplings. stir-fried variety with asparagus. version at Shanghai Min. on pizza at new Fangjia Hutong > price tba; available late Oct/nov; din > prices vary; available Oct/nov; wu li Xiang > prices tba; available Oct/nov; shanghai joint Ramo. Nali Patio’s Mosto tai fung (see listings for details) (see listings for details) min (see listings for details) will get bypassed for now as it temporarily closes in October for a makeover, but nearby Union Bar and Grille has Head-to-Head reopened post-refurb. Speaking of American, the Corner Melt’s Domestic Red Bull grilled cheese sandwiches are back, and it’s gone all Bansky by vs. tagging up the walls of its new Imported Red Bull digs on Xingfucun. The Challenge: For hydration, forget wine Drinking of the bulls – beer is Beijing’s alcoholic energy drink of choice. The Country of Origin: China. Country of Origin: Austria. Autumn Craft Beer Festival (see p55) should feature, as Price: RMB6. Price: RMB14. might the upcoming Great Leap Invitational Craft Beer Festival Caffeine: 50mg per 250ml can (a 30ml espresso Caffeine: 50mg per 250ml can (it also has in November. Pitstops at Jing-A’s has anywhere between 40-70mg). 1,000mg of taurine, ten times the amount of the new taproom in Sanlitun’s 1949 Chinese version). Courtyard (p63), will include all Taste: Less flavor, more sugar. The Chinese hong their beers and some top pub niu isn’t carbonated so it slips down smoother Taste: Fruitier and fizzier. The imported beverage grub. Local brewers Panda have – worth remembering if you’re a Jägerbomb is more palatable but it still tastes like liquefied birthed a gleaming new brewpub enthusiast. gummy bears on steroids. Vodka helps. in Beixinqiao – worth a look. Something stronger might Slogan: Your energy – exceeding expectations Slogan: Red Bull gives you wings. be needed for the final few (你的能量超乎想像). kilometers, and with baijiu’s Energy Rating: Extreme. 30 minutes after recent mini-resurgence, we’d Energy Rating: Wired. A single can provides drinking we have a sudden urge to paraglide out go for Capital Spirits (see enough energy to reply to 76 letters-to-the-editor of our office window. opposite) or Oriental Lounge in a single sitting. (p59). A Craft Baijiu Festival in 2015? Maybe, but we predict Verdict home-distilled gin will be the next big trend. You heard it here The two Red Bulls taste very similar indeed. But when the need for a borderline-unhealthy dose of first. WP caffeine and sugar is needed we’ll seek out the imported option, despite the cost. WP

48 | October 2014 | www.thatsmags.com [email protected]

SOUNDBITE bartisans In Bartisans, Beijing’s best barmen and women introduce a “Eat more seafood drink of their choice. This month: Capital Spirits’ Bill Isler. and fewer instant noodles” ... was the advice President Xi Jinping urged Chinese tourists to adhere to when traveling abroad. The president was adressing an audience in the Maldives, which can expect 400,000 mainland tourists next year. by n o emi cassanelli o by t

... is the total value (in RMB) of online sales ph o of alcohol in China during 2013, according to The Drink. We ask barman Bill Isler, who first tasted China Alcoholic Drinks Association, which is baijiu in 2000, which cocktail he recommends: “Well, almost double the amount in 2012. we’ve just dialed the baijiu sour recipe, or you could try billion the crab island iced tea – but as first timers you should really go for ‘The Intro Flight’ – an introduction to the four major styles (like a Greatest Hits of baijiu).” Not many westerners know such variation exists: “comparing Lanzhou Beef Noodles Originated in Henan different types is like comparing gin and vodka.” Tasting Notes. The first baijiu in the flight is GuiLin A newspaper has sparked controversy by claiming that Lanzhou beef noodles, SanHua (Guangxi, 38% ABV). Since it’s a rice baijiu it which are ubiquitous in hole-in-the-wall restaurants all over China, actually tastes like a strong saké. Slips down easily and we predict originated in Bo’ai County, Henan. New information uncovered by Henan sterner tests are to come. Next up is XingHuaCun Fenjiu Business Daily suggests that a student in the province, Chen Weijing, first (Shanxi, 53% ABV). It has the prettiest bottle, but the created the hand-pulled noodles during the reign of Qing dynasty emperor fieriest taste, despite being described as ‘light’. Jiaqing (1796-1820). It then claims the dish traveled hundreds of miles to The third is the ‘strong’ category: WuLiangChun Lanzhou, Gansu, when Chen’s classmate Ma Liuqi, a Gansu native, learnt of the (Sichuan, 45% ABV). We’re struggling to find ways to recipe. In what is undoubtedly one of the biggest shocks in the world of wheat- describe the flavor when Bill steps in: “It’s made in based staple foodstuffs since China claimed to have invented pasta, netizens are hundred-year-old earthen pits which are full of bacteria. said to be outraged. Bosses at famous Lanzhou beef noodle chain, Mijia, aren’t That’s why it tastes a bit like strong blue cheese.” It does, fazed though, boasting “[the dish] may have first been made in Henan, but after but don’t let that deter – strong blue cheese is no bad it came to Lanzhou it was greatly improved upon.” thing. Finally we have MouTai Prince (Guizhou, 53% ABV) in the ‘sauce’ category. It’s not our favorite, but we finish and are rewarded with… another shot of baijiu. Ganbei. The Bar. Four friends – including long-time China residents, former bar owners and an award-winning vodka distiller – opened Capital Spirits, which they run after their day jobs. It was borne not only through a respect for baijiu culture, but also because they wanted to create an authentic, foreigner-accessible Chinese drinking experience. There’s not a whiff of a cheap gimmick and the small hutong space is beautifully decorated. “You don’t need to be an expert to enjoy it, in the same way that not every westerner who drinks whisky is an expert.” Chinese beers (and plenty of water) also available. WP

> the intro flight is available at capital spirits, rmb40; tue-sun 8pm- late; 3 da Ju hutong, dongcheng 东城区大菊胡同3号 (10 6409 3319; www.capitalspiritsbj.com)

www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 49 eat & drink | restaurants

Dining at a top restaurant is about much more rendang (RMB118), cooked for four hours with open page副标题底线 than just the food on your plate. In Beijing, think coconut and lemongrass. It’s spicy – like Thai and PADANG Capital M, Temple Restaurant, and – dare we say it – Malaysian – but oilier than those neighboring Starbucks: setting is key. It’s all about matching the cuisines (which should please many Chinese South-East Asian mood to the food, while the right interior creates palates). Not in a heavy, slimy way, however – Persuasion character, atmosphere and even a recognizable more a tinned tuna refined oiliness way. Then we brand. It can also house a small wildlife sanctuary, order the ikan bakar colo colo grilled fish (mainly by Will Philipps if you so desire. because we want to say it out loud), a dish thats And so we have Padang. Sometimes you think exuberance manages to trump even the decor, you know every little nook, cranny and oddity in given that it successfully marries good taste with your neighborhood, and then something like this its eye-catching appearance. The nasi goreng suddenly leaps from the bushes. Padang is the seafood pineapple rice (RMB58, left) and beef satay largest city on the west coast of the Indonesian (RMB58) complete the set of Padang classics. island of Sumatra, and its eponymous Beijing Yet the most memorable part of the evening restaurant might be the largest in town. (Official is our adventure to find the bathroom. We are led accolades include making the top 50 restaurants, down a leafy corridor, which must be at least 50 ranked by atmosphere, on Chinese listings website meters in length. Reaching the end, we start to Dianping. And that’s out of 96,708.) It’s located in hear some commotion. Peering our heads round the Shimao Department Store on Gongti Bei Lu and a corner, half expecting to see a caged rhino, we was set up by a local businessman who fell in love in fact see a full-blown wedding ceremony taking with Indonesian cuisine on frequent trips there. place. They’ll probably be honeymooning in some Before we see Padang, we hear it: the chirping other wing of this maze-like venue. of dozens of caged parakeets welcoming guests We arrive back ten minutes later and cool off through the door. The interior has a kind of palatial- with a happy soda (RMB26), a combination cherry banquet-hall-meets-rainforest-eco-lodge vibe, and apple fruit juice, condensed milk and Sprite, complete with reptile house accoutrements. On a obviously. Thankfully alcohol is available, which you between-course safari, we spot a crocodile, flying might need to deal with the sensory overload of the fish, a tarantula, a few snakes and some jellyfish. wildly eccentric Padang. They’re not on the menu, though. What is on the menu is a huge range of daily 10am-10pm, 3f shimao department store, gongti bei lu, authentic Sumatran dishes. Highlight is the beef chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯工体北路世茂广场3层 (6409 4988)

photo by noemi cassanelli

50 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com restaurants | eat & drink

FACTORY Conveyor Belt Cuisine

by Will Philipps

Since the closure of their previous venture SALT, executive chef Camila Betin and her team have upped sticks to 798 for a new challenge. What’s the idea behind FACTORY? With FACTORY we wanted to create more than just a Located in an old military factory, it’s an intimate restaurant – it’s a center for food. On top of a rotating set- restaurant by day and city-wide catering service menu lunch venue, we have a catering service and a big open kitchen space for workshops and events. by night, with the occasional cooking workshop or competition thrown in for good measure. What’s the biggest challenge for a catering business? Everyone demands so much for such a low price! With catering, clients tell us their budget and then we come up with the menu to fit that. In a restaurant it’s the complete opposite. And since food is often prepared onsite at events, you have to deal with a lack of equipment and resources: no utensils, no sink, no running water. You have to take so much with you – it’s a bit like going camping. It’s less about being creative, more about survival.

What’s the secret to hosting a great dinner party? Know your guests. Ask them what they like to eat. People like attention, so don’t spend all your time in the kitchen. Working in a smaller restaurant like FACTORY I’ve come to realize that. I can actually get out among the guests, talk to them and hear what they have to say.

Tell us about the cuisine. I source most of the ingredients depending on the season and what I find in the local markets, so the lunch set menu changes each month. I’m Brazilian and my cooking background is mainly Italian but overall it’s simply contemporary. There’s a touch of Asian but it’s not fusion – it’s freestyle. One of my favorites is pumpkin and lemongrass mousseline with seared scallops and coconut foam. And our black cod with potato, chorizo and Spanish beans has been popular.

Why 798? If we’d gone to an area like Sanlitun, we’d have just been another restaurant among all the crowds. We’re offering something a bit different and that suits 798, an art district where an offbeat dining scene is developing. Plus, this area is about creation and production and we’re housed in an old military factory – it fits. There is a craftsmanship to what we do, but it’s simple. I’m not interested in molecular gastronomy, I want food that looks like food. factOry is open for lunch and offers catering to all levels of parties and events; a1, north business building, 797 middle street, 798 art Zone a, 2 Jiuxianqiao lu, chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号789艺术区797中街(近商务楼北楼一层1号) (5762 Events manager, Luciana Lamantea, and executive chef, Camila Betin, pictured outside FACTORY 6451; www.factorycateringbeijing.com) photo by noemi cassanelli

www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 51 eat & drink | restaurants open page副标题底线 Saboten Home Comforts

by Will Philipps

photos by noemi cassanelli

Would you be surprised to hear that some of the best comfort It’s what your school canteen wishes it could have prepared food for homesick Westerners can be found at Japanese but never came anywhere close. restaurant Saboten? We stumble across this chain when our There’s a more zesty raddish tenderloin (RMB74, above), dear, aged and somewhat blinkered parents are visiting China. or a claypot-style tenderloin katsuni with egg and soy sauce After six days of culinary experimentation, they are in need of (RMB68). The truly adventurous might go for Saboten’s hotpot something “crisp, not oily and consisting of animal parts not (RMB98-135) but that would be like ordering the french fries discernable from their outlines.” at a Chinese takeaway. The kushiage options (yakitori-like We don’t do fast food, thank you very much, so it is the breadcrumbed chuan’r) include scallop (RMB12), asaparagus unlikely combination of Saboten’s tonkatsu pork cutlets with with bacon (RMB10) and lotus root with minced pork (RMB8) rice and shredded cabbage salad that comes to the rescue. – all recommended. Unusually for a visit to a Japanese The chain first opened in 1966 and has over 500 branches restaurant there’s almost no foodstuff we’re unacquainted with worldwide. We visit a Taikoo Li South branch, one of three in on the menu, save perhaps for a can of lychee beer. Beijing (additional branches can be found in Wangfujing and Comfort levels are high when the bill is ordered – enough the Parkview Green mall.) The restaurant’s resplendent display even to entertain the idea of a lamb-spine hotpot lunch the of fake food models in the window confirms its suitability: next day. In fact, a little later research reveals (and perhaps we the 5-foot tall display of innocuous-looking breaded meat and should have realized this earlier on) tonkatsu was invented at boiled rice beckon us in with an alluring plainness. the turn of the 20th century in Japan as an attempt to recreate The main event is the loin set (RMB78). It’s a sliced pork the European cuisine of former colonialist occupiers. Credit cutlet in breadcrumbs, accompanied by white rice, miso soup where it’s due then – it has passed the ‘homesick parent test’ and a large bowl of cabbage. If moisture is a must, there’s a with flying colors, as good an endorsement as any, we feel. Take pestle and mortar full of sesame seeds to crush into some note, all you Chinese ‘Western-style bakeries’. thick vinegary sauce – but we suggest the truly homesick forgo the accompaniment. It’s a meal of recognizable textures, daily 10am-10pm; slg21a-2 sanlitun taikoo li south, 19 sanlitun lu, monochrome palates and distinctly uncomplicated dining. chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区slg21a-2 (6417 0533) Unexciting to some, maybe, but we find it immensely satisfying.

52 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com feature | eat & drink by n o emi cassanelli o by t ph o Tribe The Noble Savage by Stephen George

Tribe, get it? It’s hip, in an agrarian, non-industrialized ironic kind of way. An upscale organic deli, whose name hints at a pre-state society, where everyone trades freshly-picked berries and eats super grains. In the East, as well as the West, tribal societies remain indelibly bound – for better or worse – to varying notions of savagery and mysticism. They are enigmatic worlds beyond our ken, untouched by modern civilization. To understand them is to be a sage. The fact that cafes and restaurants are now in the business of selling that concept – specifically the idea of ultra-healthy, exotic foodstuffs – back to urban consumers at premium prices is telling. Beijing, a city in thrall to environment-be-damned urban development, has become home in recent months to a number of eco-friendly organic delis – each with its own pseudo-aspirational message of culinary redemption. But how do you know if you belong in the tribe – what are the signifiers? (A secret handshake, maybe?) And more importantly, how do you go about joining? (By completing an initiation ritual that sees you leave polite society and wander, semi-naked and alone, through the edges of Fengtai District awaiting The Vision, perhaps?) Having ventured into Tribe – a two story New York-style wood paneled salad bar cafe and loft space – it appears that induction involves spending somewhere in the region of RMB100 on a kale salad and a freshly pressed juice, while basking in the warm, conceited glow that comes from knowing that you are Eating Well. The large chalkboard menu is split into three distinct sections: salads (RMB48 to RMB68), wraps and sandwiches (RMB45 to RMB78), and noodle and grain bowls (RMB48 to RMB68). We tried the Tribe house salad, a well-proportioned, exceedingly colorful mix of Peruvian quinoa, kale, orange, fennel, hummus and pistachio, with chili citrus vinaigrette (RMB52), while the sizable lamb meatball sandwich, with feta cheese, hummus and carrot-slaw on “sprouted seven grain” bread (RMB68) is a dish that, according to Tribe’s ‘Glossary of Goodness’ contains a ‘Vitamin Load’ (of what Advertising Hotline exactly, we’re not sure). Both dishes proved wholly satisfying, though as is the case with so much ‘healthy food’, it’s often easier to say what it wasn’t – greasy, processed, sugary – than what it was. But Tribe, like its namesakes the world over, stands in opposition to the other – in this case, mass produced, prepackaged foodstuffs – and that is no bad thing. daily 10:30am-10:30pm; 2 gongti dong lu, chaoyang 朝阳区工体东路3号 (8587 1899)

www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 53 eat & drink | restaurants

open page副标题底线 s by n o emi cassanelli o s by t ph o

MOSAIC Ode to Autumnal Shawarmas

by Oscar Holland

“Winter is an etching, spring a watercolor, summer an oil painting marinated meat grilled and rolled into a tender package with some and autumn a mosaic of them all.” tangy sauce. The wraps themselves are lightly toasted (mitigating This short, slightly nauseating poem appeared in a 1983 issue the perennial threat of sogginess) and the accompanying garlic dip of the influential literary journal Reader’s Digest, no doubt nestled is as moreish as a group of medieval North Africans. between the latest housekeeping tips and an implausible courage- The menu, and indeed the owners, remain guarded about the in-the-face-of-adversity tale featuring a heroic dog. The poet in exact ingredients of all the sauces. All power to them. We probably question, a certain Stanley Horowitz, doesn’t even have a Wikipedia wouldn’t go blabbing about it either. page. Yet somehow his 18-word saccharine opus has spread like Elsewhere, the culinary offerings are as authentic as you’ll find some benign virus. in the city (as prepared by the restaurant’s bona fide Syrian chef). Instagram memes, inspirational fridge magnets and a public The standout classics include hummus (RMB28, or RMB35 with park in Arizona now all bear his seasonal observations. This alone little chunks of lamb) which is served at a near-perfect consistency; should make them instantly detestable. But we should never be too falafel (RMB42); and a fattoush salad with wonderful little bites of proud to admit when a cutesy, seemingly vacuous saying holds true. crispy bread (RMB32, all pictured above). Because it possesses particular relevance in Beijing. Sure, The inspiration for the establishment’s name apparently winter is more of an impressionist ice carving than an etching, and came from the variety of food found across the Middle East. It summer more resembles a sweaty body painting than oil on canvas. seems fitting therefore, that there is some fusion on offer too. The But autumn genuinely is a mosaic. So combine the fact that Mosaic shawarma burrito (RMB52) may be even better than the original, is also a Middle Eastern bar-slash-restaurant in Sanlitun with the and why has no-one thought about putting shawarma on a pizza realization that it is now very much autumn, and by some warped (RMB65) until now? logic you should conclude that this is probably a good time to eat Interior-wise, we find the expected regional stylings but as shawarmas. renovations are imminent we shan’t dwell. All you need to know is Enter Ashi and Jenny, the establishment’s co-owners who that the well-stocked bar and shisha pipes will live on. An insulated provide the perfect spot to do just that. Although open for about patio is also on the way, so winter may very well be a mosaic this a year, Mosaic is coming into season. Not only is its outdoor patio year as well. furnished with comfortable seats on which to enjoy the last al fresco dinners of the year, but their wraps are also superb. daily, midday-2am; rm 102, Unit 1, 32 sanlitun south, chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南 Have a shawarma platter of the chicken variety (three for the 32号1单元102室 (137 1883 7065) most affordable sum of RMB58, with fries to boot), which sees

54 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com feature | eat & drink Autumn Craft Beer Festival Interview by Will Philipps by n o emi cassanelli o by t ph o

China is a nation of beer lovers – pure chefs and kitchens (see below), and music drank mass-market lager when we were and simple. This country drinks a higher provided by local bands and DJs. But Jurinka young and thought ‘This is crap!’ but then quantity of beer than anyone else and Snow adds that it’s more than just a garden party – later tried craft beer and found something is the world’s biggest selling brand. But it’s a celebration of entrepreneurial spirit. more interesting. But at the festival there’ll that’s mass-produced lager – the craft beer “We want the focus to be on China so be a beer for everyone and heads will be industry is still very much in its infancy. we’re only bringing in China-based brewers. swimming with all sorts of different flavors “That’s our aim with this festival,” says This won’t be like festivals abroad where you that they didn’t even know existed before.” Chandler Jurinka, founder of Slow Boat have 700 different beers. I know all these Disparity in cost between a humble 3.2 Brewery and driving force behind October’s guys; we’ve bootstrapped these businesses percent Shandong lager and an American- festival, the first his team has organized ourselves and we’ve bitched about the style imperial IPA might deter some, but the in Beijing. “We’re hoping it will add value same employment problems. For us, every Slow Boat captain argues his case: “Craft to the market, as Beijing and China-based time a new beer comes out the tank it’s like beer is a labor intensive process; we use the brewers are looking to establish themselves. Christmas. If you look at the festival that way, highest quality malts, and hard-to-source As brewers, we need to work closer together this is like Christmas times twelve.” ingredients. And all that yeast – it’s so much and this festival will aid that.” But that’s But as Jurinka himself admits, most of healthier than the mass-produced stuff; we only one side of it. “The vast majority of these companies were set up by foreigners never use chemicals. But above all: the flavor. beer drinkers in China think in very simple and only 40 percent of visitors are expected There’ll be something for everyone at this terms. This festival and its 50 beers will be to be Chinese. Can it compete with lager festival and the chance to try something you introducing craft beer to a new generation of culture? “Accompaniment of food is part can’t get anywhere else in the world.” drinkers.” and parcel of Chinese drinking culture and For the uninitiated, then, some words Over October 10 and 11, (the traditional the Snows and Tsingtaos suit that. But 40 of advice: “Drink the least bitter beers (like harvest season and a great time of year for percent of women in northern China drink IPAs) last, as they can destroy the palette. brewers) the festival hopes to attract over beer – a huge number. Most locals that come Always check the ABV, anything above 8 5,000 ale enthusiasts through its doors, with into our taproom claim they don’t like bitter percent is very strong so don’t go downing it 12 independent breweries from all over but they love the IPAs. They simply haven’t like water. And above all, don’t rock up with a China, food supplied by nine independent been baptized into it – in the same way we bottle of Yanjing.”

www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 55 eat & drink | Feature

open page副标题底线

Beijing Homebrewing Society The home for homebrewers in Beijing, from first-timers to professionals, this society NB Craft Brewing Company meets bi-weekly to promote beer culture, discuss techniques and invent wacky flavors. NB has one of the largest bottled beer selections Meetings take place in English or Chinese, but in the capital, from obscure, RMB2,000-per-bottle all are united by a common language: beer. imports, to Tibetan red ale and local faves like Brewer’s choice: Gongbao Porter, 5-6% ABV Jing-A. But owner Yin Hai is most passionate about A brewer called Yob concocted this beer – his own brewing operations at his Xicheng bar, hints of cucumber and peanut. where the team can even show you, step-by-step, how to brew your own. Brewer’s choice: NB Beijing Pumpkin Ale 3-4% ABV A pint of fresh pumpkin, four Chinese spices and sheer brewing passion.

iBrew Homebrew Beers and Ciders This one-man microbrewery has an impressive repertoire for such a small operation. Specializing 18 Brewery in fruit beers and ciders, iBrew (aka Brandon Fisher) honed his craft with the Beijing Homebrewing Society. His Bad Apple cider won 18 Brewery is the home of great first place at this year’s Beijing Craft Beer Festival beer in Wuhan, where owner in the cider division. Wanda has committed himself to providing the city’s loyal drinkers Brewer’s choice: Honey Alt, 5-6% ABV with 200 different kinds of craft Combines German-style altbier with honey to balance a sweet but hoppy flavor. beer as well as its own brewery. The team also hold homebrewing competitions at the bar for the local community. Brewer’s choice: Summer Ale 5-6% ABV Drink in the last of the summer – rich fruit flavors and long-lasting freshness.

Boxing Cat Brewery Chengdu Harvest Brewing Co. Brewmaster Michael Jordan has been Former electronic musician Wang Rui founded pulling pints at this American-style this brewery in 2010. In four years, it has brewery and restaurant in Shanghai since developed from a 200-liter capacity operation 2008. Using only the highest quality malt to a factory with an annual output of 600 tons. and hops, his multi-award winning beers Wang’s approach to beer is like his music – range from experimental coffee bean and delicate, elegant and with a focus on quality, not tealeaf brews to old-fashioned European quantity – the reason they only create one or two lagers and hoppy American pale ales. new ales each year. Brewer’s choice: Sucker Punch Pale Ale, 5.5% ABV Brewer’s choice: Hoppy Weizen 5% ABV Strong German wheat Gold medal winner at International Beer Cup in Japan. beer, vigorous with a complex flavor. Fruity and refreshing.

56 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com feature | eat & drink

Nanjing Craft Brewing Company

China’s first licensed craft brewery. Set up by the inimitable Gao Yan in 2008, he’s produced a range of recognizable China Jing-A Brewing brews, including Master Gao, Mad Ting At the core of Jing-A’s brewing philosophy and Baby IPA, the latter holding the world is “you should never settle for mediocre record for the highest priced beer sold at beer.” Nor should you settle for boring beer, auction. Having penned the only Chinese as every concoction dreamt up by brewers language book on the subject, few have Alex and Kristian is as eye-catching as it is been as important at promoting craft beer thirst-quenching. From the pollution-inspired culture in China than Gao. Airpocalypse, to the Mandarin Summer Wheat Brewer’s choice: Baby IPA, 6% ABV – it’s China through-and-through. Bestseller in China – lightly hopped with a malty Brewer’s choice: Guizhou Smoked Chili Porter, 5.5% ABV sweetness. Essential drinking. Contains beechwood-smoked malt and smokin’ hot chili peppers from Guizhou.

Great Leap Brewing Calvin Beer Company Beijing’s Great Leap was founded in 2010 with “an This brewery started the way many aim to foster a Chinese brewing culture.” It wants others do in China – with two expats to present a growing beer-drinking market with making up for a lack of quality beer by creative, local creations that are inherently and brewing their own. Wisconsin-native proudly Chinese. The majority of ingredients are brewmaster Calvin Jameson turned locally produced, while the hops, teas, spices, coffees the hobby into a full-scale operation – even fruits and vegetables – are 100 percent local. in 2013, making “a mix of American, Brewer’s choice: Imperial Pumpkin Ale, 7.8% ABV Belgian and German beers – or just Full-bodied ale made with fresh, local pumpkin and delicately spiced whatever we love to drink.” with cinnamon. Brewer’s choice: Bourbon Barrel Porter 9% ABV Rich and heavy – perfect for colder weather.

Slow Boat Brewery Strong Ale Works A family-run brewery and now large- scale distributor, Slow Boat is on tap and Based in the spiritual home of Chinese beer, Strong in bottle at venues throughout Beijing Ale Works has been educating the palates of Qingdao’s and Shanghai. The brand set sail in 2009 beer drinkers since 2011. Owner John Herrington when founders Chandler Jurinka and brews high quality pale ales, IPAs, stouts and Daniel Herbert met and bonded over a smoked beers – served fresh and cold, using the best love of their native US beers. They serve ingredients. Just don’t mention that watery, green- 17 types of good honest ale, and are bottled filth they call Ts*ngtao! bringing eight or nine to their inaugural Brewer’s choice: Double Hoppiness, 6.8% ABV beer fest. The logo (苦苦) means ‘double bitter’ – expect some bite with this one. Brewer’s choice: Triple IPA, 9% ABV It‘s tempting to choose the Imperial Pumpkin Stout, but this new Triple IPA is off the charts.

www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 57 eat & drink | restaurants restaurants | eat & drink open page副标题底线 CULIANG RENJIA 粗粮人家 A Thing of the Past

by Oscar Holland, additional eating by Will Philipps

Decor standard pan-China fare. But a quick back- many collectives of raucous senior citizen of-a-cigarette-packet calculation reveals that diners, plates stacked high and conversation What do a brass bugle, an antique drinking (given the magnitude of dishes available) flowing, suggest we are in a minority. They flask and a huge mural of people playing to estimate how good the restaurant’s food are the customers to whom words like mahjong have in common? To us – very is, with a 95 percent confidence interval, ‘gluten free’ and ‘gastro-’ sound as related to little. But if you grew up in 1970s rural would require 8.32 months’ worth of That’s illnesses as they do dining. China, they’re all relics of childhood Beijing’s food budget [Editor: go away]. nostalgia that now feature prominently Live animal count at Maoist retro-restaurant Culiang Renjia. Food Symbolizing the rural, we find huge Surprisingly high. The main attraction must agricultural tires in the place of lampshades, Disclaimer: In light of the above, this is not surely be the drift of tiny pigs sniffling plastic crops and vegetables hanging from statistically representative of the quality of around in a pen by the restaurant’s Gui a thatched ceiling and a life-size tractor, the food. Jie entrance. Didn’t know that ‘drift’ is the which – to our childish delight – can be sat Aside from a disanxian eggplant, potato collective noun for pigs? Well you could upon for photographs. and bell pepper classic (RMB22, tastes be forgiven for thinking that it should be a On the nostalgia front, the two-floor exactly as you would expect) we opt for ‘murder’ – as in a murder of crows – given space is littered with vestiges of the past – some selections from the throwback menu. the aforementioned Dongbei pork dish. [Ed: old newspapers line the walls championing We allow our learned hosts to choose the We have absolutely no evidence that the pen ‘Chairman Mao, the red sun in our hearts’ most traditional dishes on our behalf. leads directly to a hongshao rou chef]. There and instead of table numbers there are This decision bears mixed results. are also goldfish inside, but they pale into patriotic slogans like ‘The East is Rising’. For The paigu dun doujiao (stewed pork and insignificance compared to actual pigs. Both added authenticity, our cup and bowl are green beans, RMB48) is a balanced meat- prove difficult to touch. made of tin and decorated with little-red- and-veg combo, but the cunzhang zhaodai book-wielding workers looking satisfied cai (lit. ‘village chief entertaining guests Drinks with their lot. dish’, RMB48), with fatty pork, tofu and We ask for the most traditional beverage Forty years ago a revolution was most eggs, offers something more substantial. and are provided with a jug of what can certainly not a dinner party, but these days, It’s the exactly the kind of hearty stew only be described as a date smoothie. It is a dinner at Culiang Renjia comes highly to fill an empty stomach after a long day disconcertingly viscous – the sort of high- recommended for anybody looking to showing your boundless loyalty to the fiber drink that our mothers would describe rediscover their Maoist zeal. great helmsman. Sadly, the clumps of as ‘binding’. This is probably a poor choice congealed blood in the Dongbei sha zhu of restaurant to visit with a date. Because it cai (lit. ‘northeastern pig murder dish’ Menu will end up being blended and served in a RMB38) are a little too overpowering for drink [Ed: you’re fired]. The offering at Culiang Renjia, a gargantuan these precious, modern palettes. At Culiang patchwork of photos that take up an entire Renjia earthy, stewed flavors win out over daily 11am-5am, 5 dongzhimen nei, dongcheng 东城 wall, can be broadly divided into two spiced and seasoned dishes. Not all of these 区东直门内大街5号 (5129 0123 ext.5) categories: 1970s throwback classics and choices are winners in our minds – but the s by n o emi cassanelli o s by t ph o

58 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com restaurants | eat & drink by n o emi cassanelli o by t ph o Oriental Lounge Eastern Promises by Will Philipps

When a gregarious Taiwanese restaurant owner with a predilection for baijiu and other Chinese spirits invites you for a banquet, there’s only really one way the night can end. As the owner of the Oriental Lounge leads us to that banquet table, three shot glasses neatly RECRUITMENT positioned in front of each place setting confirm our suspicions. We’ve been told that Oriental Lounge is a Taiwanese bar and Shanghai Sales Manager restaurant, yet there’s not a single chopstick on the table. But before any glasses are filled, we are introduced to the restaurant. It’s located Job Description: in Sanlitun SOHO, a sleek yet unloved plaza that we always feel is 1) Report directly to the General Manager of Urbanatomy Shanghai. better enjoyed from a distance. This is, of course, the exact opposite 2) Take full responsibility for the advertising sales performance of the of what a shopping mall should offer but Oriental Lounge gives us Shanghai sales team, including That’s Shanghai Magazine, Urban reason to enter. Family and all digital products. Luckily, chopsticks and plates soon arrive and after the first toast 3) Devise and oversee an annual and monthly sales plan. of many (we’re not sure what for but it doesn’t seem to matter), we 4) Evaluate and ﬁnalize annual advertising pricing strategies. dive in. Braised squid in mustard (RMB48, above) and three-pot 5) Maxmize team resources to reach annual and monthly sales chicken (RMB42) are recommended. They both contain extremely targets. strong garnishes – mustard and whole garlic cloves respectively – 6) Recruit, train, and manage the Shanghai sales team on a which battle against the hellfire and brimstone that toasting with day-to-day basis. 60% ABV liquor entails. The cuisine is mostly in typical Taiwanese 7) Work closely and liase with the sales teams from Urbanatomy xiaochi form – plates and plates of smaller bite-sized dishes that can operations in other cities. be grazed through over a few hours – none too filling or heavy. We Qualiﬁcations: try some peeled cherry tomatoes that have been pickled in baijiu (RMB18), while the pork ribs (RMB48) are perhaps best suited to 1) Strong sense of business ethics. 2) Bachelor’s degree or above. less adventurous palates. 3) Experience working in media is a major advantage. Baijiu cocktails are also available – the owner is not afraid to 4) Two or three years relevent managerial experience. market his favorite spirit in ways that might appeal to everyone 5) Excellent people and communication skills. – but we think those are for the less adventurous too. “It’s not to 6) Fluent English skills, both oral and written. everyone’s taste,” our host admits. But to forgo pure baijiu is to miss 7) Keen to take the ‘Salary Plus Commission’ structured the point – you must learn to withstand the burn and appreciate the compensation. fragrance. We’re not sure we’ll swap it for our Talisker 18 years just yet, but every once in a while it’s important to branch out a little. At least that is the line of thought as the fourth (or is it fifth?) bottle is Please send your CV to [email protected] opened. The rest of the evening, as they say, is a bit of a blur. daily 11am-2am; 1123 sanlitun sOhO bldg 1, 8 gongti bei lu, chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路8号院三里屯sOhO1号楼1123 (5785 3628)

www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 59 COMMUNITY community | tiger father

best days of our lives Birth of a Child or the Melbourne Cup?

by Trevor Marshallsea

“You experience an almost spiritual joy. I speak, of course, of the day school resumes after summer holidays”

When you’re a parent, the answer to the The resumption of school in Expatland When I asked something as adult-basic as question “Happiest day of your life?” is different. Friends in Australia assumed where she was from, Evie had to think long becomes a no-brainer. The day my child we’d be out buying new books, pencil and hard. Finally she said India. My mind was born. If you have multiple kids, you’ll cases, uniforms, etc. But like a lot of expats, put all their Delivery Days, or D-Days, in it was none of the above. International dinner parties with the parents. school kids don’t need uniforms or exercise was full of exotic ideas of magnificent better be your answers, or you’ll get in real books. The pencil is almost a museum hair and blue eyes, and sounded more from troublea dead tie with for yourfirst. wife. Or at least these had piece. ManchesterThen I met than the Mumbai. friend. She It turned had blonde out I get enough grief as it is for not cry- They use laptops and they learn via she had lived in India for a time. ing at either of my children’s births. This the internet. As if their handwriting wouldn’t have been so bad, but three wasn’t bad enough, their desktops – and I less where people are from. It doesn’t yet mean the tops of their desks – have been enterStill, their it’s heads nice that whether kids couldn’ttheir friends care champion racehorse called Makybe Diva turned into whiteboards. They write (well, are, say, from a pub culture, a place with wonmonths Australia’s after the biggest arrival race, of our the first, Mel a- scrawl) on them with big felt markers. a similar sense of humor, or a place where bourne Cup, for an unprecedented third Mind you, for the fees paid at people go to the beach at 6am to reserve international schools, you should expect their sun lounge. My defense was straightforward. In the best. In fact, not to sound too colonial These things aren’t important to kids. thetime history and I was of the in floodsworld, oflots tears. of babies had about it, but at this price the kids should What’s important are Furbies, and how been born. No horse had ever won three each really have some sort of manservant Melbourne Cups. It’s hard enough to win to tap the laptop keys for them. by their parents. We saw Furbies as an one. The new year often brings new friends. irritating,to get them. talking, Our kids furry were toy flatly that deniedrequired My main feeling at the births of Lani, Expat kids tend to change friends like now 9, and Evie, 7, was relief. Nothing had socks. That’s because little friends, like This was a mere speed bump for our gone wrong. mobsters, leave the country on a regular 7-year-old.an appropriate Evie iPad was apptaken for shopping optimal use.for I was extremely happy. I don’t usually basis. I’ve never seen a seven-year-old turn Lani’s birthday present, not by us, but by cry when I’m happy, unlike my wife to another and sing that old song ‘Baby, her aunt. And guess what she convinced watching all those romance movies where the aunt to buy? the ending usually arrives with a man they should. We now have a Furby in our house and a woman agreeing that they should BabyIn Don’t general, Get it’sHooked funny On what Me,’ kids but perhapsview - enter into a relationship – as predictable as important. And given their transient na- ing by the creepy way it bursts to life at as winning three Melbourne Cups is ture, expat kids perhaps have more reason anythat’s given not onlymoment, capable is probably of speech also but, capa judg- improbable. not to bother with the getting-to-know- ble of murdering us in our sleep. But while the D-Days are special, it’s you niceties. I bet the plot to acquire it was hatched not long before they’re relegated to second in the school playground, perhaps with spot at the top of your list. This is when interact. Their impersonations of our that friend who was, or was not, Indian. dinnerOurs parties think consistit’s hilarious of standing how we around adults The child’s mind is truly an intriguing you never thought you would feel. I speak, repeating “Hi, how you going?” and “Let’s place. I love studying it at close range. ofyou course, first experience of the day schoolan almost resumes spiritual after joy drink coffee!” Then I also love when it goes back to summer holidays. No 7-year-old has ever asked another school. The D-Days then drop one further how they are going. Conversations are place each year for the next 12, until the more likely to start with the blurting out Trevor Marshallsea was a foreign correspondent in Beijing kids leave home at an appropriate time, in the 1990s and returned a decade later. This time which I currently see as being two or three around he stays at home to grow the kids. Read more of hours after they turn 18. of “I’VEEvie GOT told Ame BAND-AID!” she had a new or “THERE’S best friend. A his domestic adventures at www.thetigerfather.com NEW DRAGON APP!”

60 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com feature | community training day Neil Fraser is On & Off Track Manager and Head Coach at HeyRunning, one of China’s largest international and Chinese running communities. With the 2014 Beijing Marathon taking place this month, we thought we’d ask him to share some training advice and what to expect on race day Sunday, October 19th.

We live in polluted city. What advice do district. It’s not the most scenic but it’s a of runners, drop off your bags and get you have for training in high PM2.5? part of the city I rarely visit. warmed up. My golden rule, especially if it’s

get pretty deep in places which is fun to see. WorkoutIf PM2.5 isfor over some 250 extra we won’t strength train training. – so The crowds of local Beijing residents youyour want first totime, be smilingis pace yourselfwhen you carefully. cross the If Balancingtake a rest rest day daysor join and an training indoor Heyrobics days line.you go too fast you won’t enjoy your race – is crucial before a race. If the reading is Be careful at the end though – the last 5km is in the hilly Forest Green Park with sparse See you at the finish? length/intensity of the session or focus usuallysupport. fantastic. But the last 1km joins the road morebetween on strength150 and 250or stride we might (technique) reduce the to the Olympic Stadium and the support is training – less aerobic exercise, so less Any advice on race day? Maybe… I just took part in a grueling three- heavy breathing in particulate matter. Then Fuelling yourself correctly is important. I mountainday adventure biking, run kayaking, in Fujian. climbing We covered tend to have a carb-heavy meal at 3-4pm on abseiling.about 55-65km It was per quite day, low-impact by running, and not hard! But it’s not gospel – different runners the day before, then something light in the so tiring aerobically, but it was mentally respondif it’s less differently than 150 we’ll to the train pollution. as normal… Listen challenging and a steep learning curve – I to your body and do what feels comfortable. a muesli bar for some sugar and slow- came off the mountain bike a few times. The releaseevening. energy Race day but will nothing be some more fruit, than maybe that. scenery was incredible, though. You’ve run the Beijing marathon before. Most importantly, don’t try anything What’s it like? new - make sure you’ve tested your pre- The Fall 2014 HeyRunning Camp will help up to 100 runners It looks to be a similar route to previous race meal and run in your shoes and gear of all skill levels and abilities who are either training many times before. Also it gets crowded at for the Beijing Half or Full Marathon, or just for fun. The - the start in Tiananmen. Allow yourself an Camp runs until Oct 19 with up to four sessions per week years. The start at Tiananmen Square and hour from arriving to the start of the race. included. There’s still time to join if you’re interested – the finish near the Olympic Park are fantas You’ll need the time to navigate the throngs email [email protected] for more info. tic. The rest… well it’s mostly just running along the Third and Fourth Ring in Haidian

www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 61 STELLA ARTOIS URBAN MOMENTS

Do you have party pictures to contribute? Send them to us at [email protected] and we’ll run the best.

“Food Paring aFternoon Beer” Stella artoiS X BromPton City tour @ Beer Mania – August 30th

“the Beer Puzzle “Street KidS PreSentS game” Stella artoiS nguzunguzu” X BromPton City @ Dada – September 19th tour @ The Rug – August 31st Events are editors’ picks of the best activities and are not comprehensive. To list an event, email bjevents@urbanatomy. STELLA ARTOIS URBAN MOMENTS Events com. For some details, see Listings. Do you have party pictures to contribute? Send them to us at [email protected] OCT 1 EAT / DRINK Gig: LiMinHo Fan Meeting in Beijing and we’ll run the best. South Korean actor, singer, model Li Min- NIGHTLIFE Ho will sing Chinese songs, interact with his fans and give gifts as a “thank you” Gig: Lesoir for their support. “Food Paring aFternoon Beer” Stella artoiS Incredible Dutch band presents a new > RMB1,280; 7.30pm; MasterCard Center brand of musical theory and mixed style. (formerly the Wukesong Arena), 12 Xicui Combined with a raging dance floor and Road, Xicheng X BromPton City tour drinks, it’s sure to be an unforgettable @ Beer Mania – August 30th night. Music: Vol.4 Bad Education > RMB50 (door), RMB40 (presale); 9pm; Part four of School Bar’s “Bad Education” Dust Dawn Club,14 Shanlao Hutong, series rolls on, featuring punk bands Dongcheng 东城区山老胡同14号 (6407 Bedstars, Me Guan Me, Hell City and the 8969) hilariously named Green Tea Bitch. > Free for ladies, RMB50 for guys; DJ: Fritz Kalkbrenner 9.30pm; School Bar (see Listings for German DJ Fritz Kalkbrenner, the voice details) behind the Berlin Calling trajicomedy movie, returns to Beijing for the third time for a night of hip-hop, soul and OCT 7 house. > RMB150 (door, including a drink), NIGHTLIFE RMB80 (presale, including a drink); 9pm; Every Fri-Sun Gig: Northern Light Trios Club 5F, 5 Floor, The Place, Tower A, With a name that suits the aim, Northern 9 Guaghua Lu, Chaoyang (6587 2968, Lights music is meant to stir the imagina- www. 5FCLUB.com, for tickets 138 103 Eat: Weekends at BAO House tion and evoke the unbounded expanse 12612) of Canadian prairies. BAO House is Beijing first gourmet food truck. It’s located outside The Opposite > RMB60 (door), RMB50 (presale); 9pm; Shanghai Punk Tour House Hotel, next to Taikoo Li North. They offer gourmet baozi and mantou (plus Dust Dawn Club,14 Shanlao Hutong, Shanghai noise makers Goushen join Slow Boat on tap and home-made iced teas) that make for a great little pre-party Dongcheng 东城区山老胡同14号 (6407 Bedstars and Round Eye for a night of dinner option. Especially since on Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings a big 8969) drunk punk tunes and good times. sound system is there to get everyone in the party mood. If you’re thinking Why >RMB50; 9.30pm; School Bar (see spend all that money on a snack I can pick up in my xiaoqu for 5 kuai?, then you Music: Folk Song Circle and Listings for details) are mistaken. BAO House baozi are no ordinary baozi. With fillings like wagyu Beef Instrumental Jam and Mushroom with Black Truffle; Thai Pork with Red Curry and Kaffir Lime; and Bring your guitar, ukulele, fiddle or Lemongrass Pork with Pickled Vegetables, Chilli and Coriander these innovative, spoons and play along! The sing-along OCT 2 one of a kind bao that would make any lao taitai question the very fabric of their features music from the classic collection Rise Up Singing, and will be followed by COMMUNITY own dumpling making existence. a jam by members of the Beijing blue- > Fri/Sat 5:30-8:30pm, Sun 3-6pm; runs till late October; The Opposite House Performance: Beijing Improv Long- grass and old time community. Form Performance Hotel, Building #1, 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼瑜舍 > Free; 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see Beijing Improv, China’s oldest and largest (6417 6688) Listings for details) Improvised Theater organization, promises attendees a laugh and good time, COMMUNITY guaranteed. EAT / DRINK > RMB75 (door), RMB65 (member); Workshop: A writing collective for he eer uzzle “Street KidS PreSentS 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see Listings for emerging writers “t B P details). Get over that writers block! Experiment, game” Stella artoiS nguzunguzu” learn and develop your hand at writing NIGHTLIFE at WoW writers collective, which prides X BromPton City @ Dada – September 19th itself on creating a “safe” environment Music: Miss Lulu Galore & Friends for all writers. tour One of the leading figures and co-pro- > Free; 6.30pm; The Bookworm (see ducers of Beijing’s Moonglow Burlesque Listings for details) @ The Rug – August 31st dance troupe, Miss Lulu Galore and her lovely friends promise to set Beijing on fire with their sultry jazz sounds and sen- OCT 8 sual burlesque strip tease. > Free; 8pm; The Bookworm (see Listings NIGHTLIFE for details). Gig: Blackwater Developed in Beijing in 2009, Irish band Les Booze, Les Chat, Les Connect Blackwater is back on stage with their An inclusive and open event for queer signature accordion, guitar, tenor banjo, women, their friends and allies, the bodhran, tin whistle and wooden flute pop-up girl bar on the rooftop of Funky sound. provides a safe space for all to mingle, > Free, 9pm, Salud Nanluoguxiang, 66 drink and connect. Nanluoguxiang, Dongcheng > Free for all who identify as female; ALL MONTH 9pm; Funky (see listings for details) Drink: Taproom Tastings at Jing-A OCT 8-NOV 16 EAT/DRINK OCT 3 The eccentric brewmasters at Jing-A have eked out a somewhat nomadic existence Food: Saveurs Du Monde till now – but with the opening of a new taproom in Sanlitun all that has changed. COMMUNITY The Ritz-Carlton and GODIVA come to- Talk: Beijing Design Week: BarCamp at “I think the one thing that’s been missing up until this point has been our own gether to create “Saveurs Du Monde,” an Capital M flagship bar – now we have a place where we can control every last detail,” owner afternoon celebrating premium choco- Designers, entrepreneurs, programmers, Alex told us last month. “The bar, the decor, the food, the service. The complete late from five continents. and many more professionals come Jing-A experience.” That includes all their beers, including the new Smoked > RMB248; 1.30-5.30pm; Ritz-Carlton together to share new developments in Guizhou Chili Porter and Harmonious Session Ale, accompanied by a short menu Beijing, 83A Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang (emi- their fields. In honor of Beijing Design of artisanal-inspired food featuring Andy’s Sausages, gourmet grilled cheese and [email protected]; 5908 8180) Week, discussions will have a design homemade pickles, with more to come in future weeks. And because the Jing-A ex- focus. perience is all about togetherness, they’ve invited Shanghai’s The Brew to provide > Free; 1pm; Capital M (see listings for two guest ales, the multiple award-winning Pils and new Chrysanthemum Saison. OCT 9 details) The bar should be fully up and running by the start of October, call ahead or check NIGHTLIFE online for updates and details. Gig: Painkiller Magazine 14th > Building B, 1949 The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang Anniversary Carcass OCT 4 朝阳区工体北路4号院 visit www.capitalbrew.com for more info NIGHTLIFE One of the most creative metal bands

www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 63 events

from the UK, CARCASS arrives in Beijing in time for the Painkiller Mag getaways OCT 12 14th Anniversary. “Take your CARCASS,” they advertise. “And prepare for the NIGHTLIFE medicine they prescribe and the mind Music: Folk Night with Liu Yusi surgery they do.” Shenzhen singer-songwriter Liu Yusi > RMB380 (door), RMB300 (presale); takes the stage to croon some crunchy 8pm; Yugong Yishan Livehouse Beijing tunes. You may recognize the musician (see listings for details). as the guitarist from band Randy Abel Stable. >Free; 9.30pm; School Bar (see Listings OCT 10 for details) NIGHTLIFE Gig: Yosi Horikawa Yosi performs a melodic-but-abstract OCT 11-14 mix of bass music, similar to DJs such as Bonobo and early Aphex Twin. ART > RMB50; 9pm; Dada (see listings for Stage: Marco Polo details). Actors recreate scenes from the dreamy travelogue of Marco Polo, the Venetian Gig: Hotpot merchant credited with connecting DJ Wordy, DJ Soulspeak and DJ Wes play Eastern and Western civilizations. across all genres of dance music: bass, > RMB60-600; 7.30pm; National Centre house, trap, hip-hop, funk and soulful for the Performing Arts, 2 Xi Chang’anjie, banger beats. Xicheng > RMB60; 10pm; Migas (see Listings for details). OCT 12 Gig: Housing the Bar with Special K & Yang Bing COMMUNITY DJs Bite-Size Buddha, Special K and Yang Film: A Touch of Zen Bing bring their groove-heavy vinyl to Serving as inspiration for the film the decks. Get up to Migas terrace and “Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon” and get ready for some house music. the first Chinese film to ever win an > RMB50; 10pm; Migas (see Listings for award at the Cannes Film Festival, “A details). Touch of Zen” will be screened at The Culture Yard as part of the organization’s Chinese Ghost Stories series. Mandarin OCT 10 & 11 with English subtitles. Eat & DRINK >RMB50, RMB30 for members; 6- 9.30pm; Culture Yard, 10 Shique Hutong, Party: Autumn Craft Beer Festival Dongcheng District (Reserve at https:// Slow Boat Brewery plays host more than cultureyard.typeform.com/to/Dj2nVT or 20 Chinese microbreweries and food [email protected], 84044166) vendors. Mention the beer festival for special discounted rates at the hotel. (see Eat & Drink section for our feature.) OCT 12 & 26 > Free; Fri 5pm, Sat 12pm; EAST Beijing, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang COMMUNITY Workshop: Beginners’ Mahjong Local Mahjong experts pass on extensive OCT 11 knowledge of this immensely popular COMMUNITY New Opening game of skill, tactics and calculation. > RMB80, RMB40 for members; 10am- Workshop: Bookworm Writers Group 12pm; Culture Yard, 10 Shique Hutong, Group of writers read, reflect and discuss Dongcheng District (Reserve at https:// what they’re working on. Members may The Pan Pacific Hotel cultureyard.typeform.com/to/BFhfDF or share short stories or novel chapters by sending your name and number of for in-depth feedback , and sometimes Launches in Tianjin seats required to workshop@cultureyard. the group picks apart a short story from Extremely soft beds and tall windows cater to travelers searching for temporary net. 84044166) well-known writers for inspiration. > Free; 11am; The Bookworm (see homes, a spa and pool appeal to Beijingers looking for that perfect spot for a Listings for details) weekend getaway, while high-speed Internet and conference rooms have got those busy men on business covered. OCT 12-31 NIGHTLIFE Yes, once you enter the stylish Pan Pacific Hotel in Tianjin, there’s really no ART reason to leave – from the bridal room to fitness spa, all of life’s necessities are Exhibition: Paris Fashion Week 30 DJ: Shaolin Funk covered within. Years Ago Parnas and Limelight Entertainment Operating more than 10 hotels nationwide, the fact that staff at the Pan Early pictures of now-famous models present Shaolin Funk, where resident Pacific are trained to deal with customer needs is evident not only in the site’s Linda Spierings, Tatjana Patitz, Marpessa DJs Max atLarge, Juhstynn and MRG will Hennink exhibited at Inter Gallery. Taken play host a night of funk and disco with thoughtful architectural design- rarely will you be unable to find what you’re look- when artist Benedicte Bro was still a de- a dash of house. ing for, but also in their incredibly personalized service. sign student, these pictures will take you Free; 9pm; Parnas (see Listings for Upon arrival, hand written personalized notes welcoming you to the hotel are back to Paris Fashion Week 30 years ago. details) propped next to bowls of fresh fruit. Of the 319 rooms located in the hotel, guests > Free, 10am- 7pm; Inter Gallery, have the choice of staying in serviced apartments (accommodation outfitted with Sevenstar Lu, 798 Art Aream 4 kitchenettes and washing machines), smoking/non-smoking spaces and handicap Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang (5978 0929) Music: Jagermeister Rock Night rooms. Try and enjoy cheap Jager shots all Each living space is tastefully composed with glass walls, granite flooring and night and listen as rock bands End of all-cream everything. The suite interior is reminiscent of a Greek isle. But, fresh lil- OCT 13 the World, The Harridans and Candy ies and a large flat screen TV reinforce the idea of a luxury staycation. The fitness Monster play their rowdy music. centre and possibility of booking full spa days enhances that perspective. COMMUNITY > RMB40; 9.30pm; School Bar (see Inside the Pan Pacific building, Hai Tien Lo Chinese restaurant, the ultra-hip Talk: Literary Lunch: Juan Gabriel Listings for details) Asian-inspired Noodle Bar, the Pacifica all-day dining restaurant and wine-centric Vasquez Lobby Lounge are available for hungry guests. The ballroom can be booked for Award-winning author Juan Gabriel Vasquez joins diners for a three-course weddings, award ceremonies, family reunions or other occasions. For those whose lunch and talks about his novels and his ART trip requires business, a business center and meeting rooms are available. reaction against magical realism. Piano Recital: Pierre- Laurent Aimard Located along the wide Haihe river (most rooms have excellent river views), > RMB188 includes three course lunch; Prominent pianist Pierre- Laurent Aimard the Pan Pacific is just a short walk from tourist sites such as the Tianjin Ancient 12pm; Capital M (see listings for details) plays both traditional and modern music Culture Street, the Palace of Mazu and Italian Street. The Pan Pacific Hotel in Tianjin at this concert. is slated to become the newest addition to the city’s The Esplanade, an iconic com- > RMB80-380; 7.30pm; National Centre mercial, residential and cultural area located in Tianjin’s Hongqiao district. for the Performing Arts, 2 Xi Chang’anjie, OCT 14 Xicheng > 1 Zhangzizhong Lu, Hongqiao, Tianjin 天津市红桥区张自忠路1号泛太平洋酒店 NIGHTLIFE (022 5863 8888) Music: Yan Colors “The Sunshine Goes

64 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com events

Through The Window” Album Release styles. Show arts > Free (tickets are available at Yugong Join this rock-blues-jazz band for the re- Yishan and the Goethe-Institut China); lease of their first album, which includes 8pm; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for A Yan on vocals along with guitar, bass, details) drums and two keyboard players. > Free; 8.30pm; School Bar (see Listings Party: Murder Mystery Dinner for details) It’s the year 1926, and the city of Chester is buzzing about an upcoming marriage. That is, before someone discovers OCT 15 a secret they are dying to share! Nine COMMUNITY international actors will present this year’s “Murder Mystery Dinner Party and Talk: Book Talk with Kerry Brown Performance.” Includes three-course din- Brown iterates his tale of two China’s: ner, and free-flowing alcohol. one founded on the Communist prin- > RMB398 (three courses and a free- ciples of Mao Zedong, and another in flowing alcohol), RMB358 (presale, three which ‘to get rich is glorious’. courses and a free-flowing alcohol); > RMB50 (door), RMB40 (for members); 7pm; Crowne Plaza Beijing International 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see Listings for Airport Hotel (5810 8601, conrad.geske@ details) ihg.com; see listings for more details) NIGHTLIFE Gig: The Groove Collective OCT 19 The Groove Collective spins a mix in- NIGHTLIFE spired by Beijing’s international commu- Festival: THE DISTANCE BETWEEN 0 & 1 nity, the disparate rhythms and melting Oct 21-26 To commemorate the 10th Jazz Festival pot of music styles and sounds meant Anniversary, the JZ Group will play host to symbolize the many cultures listeners jazz masters’: Jojo Mayer, Nerve, Snarky come from. Arts: Brussels Days at China Puppy, Marcus Miller and many more > Free, 9pm, Salud Nanluoguxiang, 66 in Beijing. Nanluoguxiang, Dongcheng > RMB150, RMB100 (presale); 9.30pm; Central Academy of Fine Arts Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details) EAT/ DRINK Beijing and Brussels became sister cities in October 1994. Twenty years and nine formidable art installations later, Beijing is cementing this year’s sisterhood with Party: Nocturnal Gig: Roy McGrath Jazz Quartet Isolate your sense of taste and only taste “Brussels Days,” a series of exhibits uniting Chinese and Belgian artists. Tenor sax extraordinaire Roy McGrath, at Nocturnal conceptual dining experi- “MASTER MOULD AND COPY ROOM,” the first installation, will debut on pianist Joaquin Garcia, bassist Kitt Lyles ence, where a three-course meal will be October 21 at the China Central Academy of Fine Arts. The work discusses the and drummer Gustavo Cortiñas come served in the dark. eastern and western perspectives on originality, and highlights include a copy together to perform the “sonorous > RMB588 includes food and wine pair- of Marcel Broodthaers famous ‘White Room’, an original of artist Frank Theys’ dialogue,” a ensemble that promises to move listeners to laughter and tears. ings and drink at reception; 7-9pm; ‘Transhumanist’ video documentary and a work specially made for Beijing by con- > RMB50, RMB40 (presale); 9pm; Parnas (see Listings for details) ceptual artist Joelle Tuerlinkckx. Dust Dawn Club14, Shanlao Hutong, All pieces are meant to highlight the idea that, in spite of wildly differ- Dongcheng 东城区山老胡同14号 (6407 ent backgrounds or beliefs, fine art and culture can be enjoyed by Chinese and 8969). OCT 16 Belgians alike. COMMUNITY > 9.30am-5.30pm; China Central Academy of Fine Arts, 8 Huajiadi Nan Lu, Talk: The Thoughts of Chairmen Now- Chaoyang 朝阳区花家地南路8号 (6477 1018) OCT 15 Book talk with Jonathan Geldart COMMUNITY Co-author of book Jonathan Geldart takes you into the mind of the modern nightlife Film: “Red White”- After the Sichuan Chinese businessman and discusses the Earthquake business tactics, strategies and subtleties The Culture Yard screens the award- used to get work done in China. winning film “Red White,” which tells > RMB50 (door), RMB40 (for members); the stories of townsfolk who lost their 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see Listings for families, friends and homes after details) the devastating Sichuan earthquake. Discussion after. > RMB50, RMB30 for members; 6-9.30pm; Culture Yard, 10 Shique OCT 17 Hutong, Dongcheng (Reserve at https:// NIGHTLIFE cultureyard.typeform.com/to/FjpjAb or Gig: Horse Meat Disco by sending your name and number of Advertised as the “queer party for eve- seats required to workshop@cultureyard. ryone,” Horse Meat Disco celebrates its net, 84044166) 11th year of disco parties, second year in Beijing, with DJ James Hillard spinning house tracks. OCT 22 > RMB50; 9pm; DADA (see Listings for COMMUNITY details). Talk: The New Chinese Traveler-Book Future Music Festival 2014 talk with Gary Bowerman Dim Mak label boss Steve Aoki makes his Bowerman explains the trends and de- annual pilgrimage to Beijing to headline velopments of Chinese outbound travel, the Future Music Festival. alongside the motivations, desires and > RMB280 (early bird), RMB380 (presale); expectations of Chinese leisure and business travelers. Marketed to business 9pm; Tango 1F & 3F, 79 Hepingli Xijie, Oct 25 Dongcheng executives hoping to hone their products and services to better meet require- Music: Pyongyang Star Vol.2 Party: Experience Festival Warm ments of tech-savvy Chinese travelers. Part two of this intriguingly named > RMB50, RMB40 (members); 7:30pm; indie group’s theme night, where bands The Bookworm (see Listings for details) NAKOMA, We’re Not Invited, Glow Curve Up Tour Beijing and WHAI take the stage. Think tie-dye, think mind-altering audio, visual and stimulants – but also remem- NIGHTLIFE > RMB60; 9.30pm; School Bar (see ber to stay safe out there, kids – we’re talking coffee and Red Bull. In the “interests Music: Mammals CD Release Show Listings for details) of promoting psychedelic culture and awareness,” this October Dada will parrot Beijing upstart rock band Mammals the infamous New Year’s Eve party that takes place on Thailand’s Koh Tao island release their aptly-named new CD, OCT 18 each year. DJs Rigel Made, Acid Echoes and Anan will provide the swirly mashups, “Animals That Don’t Lay Eggs Volume 1.” but it’s DJ NOTE – resident DJ at both the Halfmoon and Fullmoon Festivals in Admission includes a copy of what’s sure NIGHTLIFE Thailand – who will add a layer of authenticity to the event, transporting us from to be a rowdy and fun CD. > RMB40; 9.30pm; School Bar (see Gig: Tocotronic smoggy Beijing to starlit skies, sandy beaches and the throbbing beats of Koh Tao. Listings for details) From punk to grunge to electro to pop, See you on the trance floor. German band Tocotronic will present > RMB50; 10pm; Dada (see Listings for details) one night of music with a diversity of

www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 65 events

> RMB50, RMB40 (for members); 7:30pm; OCT 23 opening party The Bookworm (see Listings for details) COMMUNITY Talk: China and the Supernatural OCT 31 Newman Tours will explore the unique nature of Chinese ghost lore, trace it’s COMMUNITY development and discuss its recent com- Comedy: Paul Ogata mercialization. Winner of the prestigious San Francisco > RMB70, RMB60 (for members); 7.30pm; International Comedy Competition, Paul The Bookworm (see Listings for details). Ogata will extend previous award winners legacy, by delivering Beijing comedy-lovers a side-splitting evening. OCT 24-26 > RMB180 (door), RMB150 (presale); NIGHTLIFE 8pm; The Bookworm (see Listings for details). Gig: BEME III Beijing-based electronic music label SINOTRONICS presents the third an- NIGHTLIFE nual Beijing Electronic Music Encounter Gig: Halloween Night (BEME), China’s most progressive show- Halloween with the Black Eyeliner! Ben case of electronic sounds. Stretched Bacon and friends are back to rock your three nights, BEME III hosts 14 artists Halloween night with dark, spooky music from China and India, and provides an from 80s pop to future electro punk. account of the city’s musical future. > Free; 9pm; Dada (see Listings for > 24th, RMB40, 8pm, DADA; 25th, details) RMB80, 8pm, Yugong YIshan; 26th, OCT 28 RMB60, Beijing XP, (see Listings for Gig: House of Freaks details) Migas’s first Halloween party will trans- Opening Party at Laurent Falcon form its dance floor into what’s advertised as a “random, weird, trashy, alien OCT 25 Coiffure Studio Paris Guomao haunted house.” COMMUNITY > RMB60; 10pm; Migas (see Listings for Featured in magazines such as Cosmopolitan and Bazaar for his expert cuts and details) Workshop: Bookworm Writers Group designs, stylist Laurent Falcon is offering to share his expertise on how you should Group of writers read, reflect and discuss cut, curl or color your hair. On October 28 men, women and their hair-conscious Party: Trick or Toast what they’re working on. Members may children (we all had a pigtails phase) who walk into the Frenchman’s luxury new Tim’s BBQ will transform their American share short stories or novel chapters salon in Guomao can receive a personal haircut, coloring and perm advice free of restaurant into a haunted lair, celebrat- for in-depth feedback, and sometimes charge (all day, available for all walk-in guests), plus vouchers for a hair/scalp SPA ing with alcoholic Bubbly Spiked Witch’s the group picks apart a short story from (to be booked for a later date at any Falcon branch). That same evening, the 28th, Brew and a costume contest! Winner well-known writers for inspiration. gets a spooky surprise. > Free; 11am; The Bookworm (see the Guomao store will host a cocktail party from 7-10pm, with free cocktails, where everyone can show off their stylish new ‘do’s. >Free; 9pm party starts, costume contest Listings for details) at 11pm; Tim’s Texas BBQ (see Listings > Laurent Falcon Cioffure Studio Paris; 3L209 Phase 3, The China World Trade for details) Center Shopping Mall, Chaoyang 朝阳区国贸商城三期二层 3L209 (5900 0676, 153 NIGHTLIFE 1311 1519); 43 Sanlitun Beijie Nan, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北街南43号楼 Party: Masquerade Ball with Alejandro (135 0137 2971) Paz Start the Halloween partying a little early EVERY SUNDAY with a costume and masquerade ball fea- nightlife COMMUNITY turing DJ and producer Alejandro Paz. Story: Sunday Story Time > RMB60 includes a drink; 9pm; Parnas Come for this Sunday session of read- (see Listings for details) ing, games, music and activities for little readers. Each week teacher Emily reads new and classic children’s books with the OCT 26 help of their storytellers. Ages 4 and up. COMMUNITY RMB50; 11am; The Bookworm (see listings for details). Film: A Chinese Ghost Story (1987) The Culture Yard screens Hong Kong hor- Tour: The Emperors, Eunuchs and ror film A Chinese Ghost Story, a modern Concubines take on a Qing Dynasty classic about a Learn about the nightmares that forced human and ghost who fall in love. Emperor Yongle to move his capital to > RMB50, RMB30 for members; Beijing and find out why men were will- 6-9.30pm; Culture Yard, 10 Shique ing to become eunuchs in order to get Hutong, Dongcheng District (Reserve at access to the inner realms of his palace. https://cultureyard.typeform.com/to/ > RMB290 (for adults), RMB220 (for kids Dj2nVT or by sending your name and under 14); 1.30pm-3.30pm (138 1777 number of seats required to workshop@ 0229, [email protected], www. cultureyard.net, 84044166) newmantours.com). OCT 28 EVERY MONDAY NIGHTLIFE COMMUNITY Gig: Crash & Compute Quiz: Quiz Night Crash & Compute—now called “Emil de Quiz night returns to The Bookworm! Waal”—bring their many genre’d electro, Every Monday prove you’re the smart- techno, experimental jazz and ambient OCT 31 est in the room over the six rounds of music to Beijing. intellectual and pop culture questions. >RMB40; 9pm; Dust Dawn Club, 14 Winners earn drinks and respect. 东城区山老 Shanlao Hutong, Dongcheng Party: Halloween Pillow Battle > Free; 8pm; The Bookworm (see listings 胡同14号 (6407 8969) at School Bar for details). OCT 30 Two months ago we were writing about a pillow fight to celebrate Chinese EVERY TUESDAY COMMUNITY Valentine’s Day and now we are writing about a pillow fight to celebrate NIGHTLIFE Talk: Sex and The Citadel - Book talk Halloween. Love? Fear? Violence? Whatever the emotion we hope the overrid- ing one is fun. Local promotions group Qingchun Zhizao is sponsoring a pillow Gig: Hot Club of Beijing with Shereen El Feki Hot Club of Beijing channels the spirit of fight... no, make that ‘Battle Royale’, this Halloween on Wudaoying Hutong in Author and journalist Shereen El Feki Django Reinhardt, Benny Goodman and Yonghegong. Whack ghouls, goblins and ghosts with these feathered weapons. examines the sexual lives of men and Duke Ellington with their raucous brand women in Egypt. Sex is entwined with After, keep the party going with bands Virus Base (a group that’s self-described of swing and gypsy jazz. religion, politics and economics, and the music is “kung fu electro-core nuclear metal”) and punk heroes Own Up. > Free; 8.30pm; Migas (see listings for result is an engaging account of a highly > RMB60 students, RMB80; 9pm; School Bar, 53 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng details). sensitive, and still largely secret, aspect 东城区五道营胡同53号 (6402 8881) of Arab society.

66 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com CITY SCENES

Parnas celebrates turning a year old with a wild heaven and hell party. You may Indigo Mall helps Disney celebrate 90 years with an exhibtion of exclusive be dressed like an angel, buddy, but watch where that hand is going. Disney artwork. Grown men look awkward around lifesize cartoon characters.

Tang Dynasty – a band who formed in 1988 and haven’t changed their look since, clearly – call forth a sea of devilhorns from the crowd at the Modern Sky Music Festival. Parkway Health Centre’s therapists give physical examination checks for 1,000 hardy souls about to climb the 2,041 steps of the China World Summit Wing Vertical Marathon.

The two conga lines at the Kerry Residence Mid-Autumn Family Day Celebrations col- Somerset Zhongguancun Beijing celebrates Mid-Autumn with a BBQ lide dramatically but luckily everyone regains composure in time for a photo. Party with over 50 people and preceisely zero mooncakes. Hooray!

www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 67 Happy hours Meal deals Weekly Specials Brunch Food and Drink Ladies' nights

El Gran Bocado Guac Burger Fridays and Weekends

When El Gran Bocado first opened a year ago, we pre- dicted big things for the casual neighborhood taqueria. Well fast forward to 2014 and a second chain, El Gran Bocado Shunyi, has already opened up – even the Mexican Embassy are fans who’ve asked the team to cater their events. The steady menu hasn’t seen much evolu- tion, but this new arrival is worth mentioning. The El Gran Bocado Guac Burger is 100% Aussie grass-fed beef with double layers of cheese, lettuce, sweet jicama (Mexican yam), and guacamole, on top of crushed crispy chicharron (pork skin), with fries, chipotle mayonnaise coleslaw, pico- de-gallo and tortilla chips on the side. The beef is freshly ground every Thursday and the burger is sold Fridays thru Sundays. Friday is deal time, though – get the burger with a coke for just RMB55. Gran bocado – poco denaro! > El Gran Bocado, (see Listings for details)

MONDAY to FRIDAY

Monday 区酒仙桥路22号1层 8414 9815 太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608) The World of Suzie Wong’s Free drinks for girls, 9pm-12am. Mai Bar Jing Yaa Tang El Gran Bocado > Gate 8, West Gate of Chaoyang Park, Buy two cocktails, get one free. Set lunch, RMB88/person, 4 for 3. Just RMB10 per taco – order as many as Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园西门8号 (6500 > 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区 > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 you want. 3377) 北锣鼓巷40号 (138 1125 2641) Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 > 1/F, Just Make Bldg, Xingfucun 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6140 5230) Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路杰 Xian Parlor 作大厦1层 (6416 1715) Whiskey night, discounts on special Buy-two-get-one-free on selected Agua selected whiskeys. cocktails. Agua’s new set lunch menu is RMB118/ > All night, 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, > 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸 person for three courses. tuesday to Friday Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号1层 (8414 福二村39-8 (8444 4135 ) > RMB118/person, Mon-Fri, 12pm- S.T.A.Y Restaurant 9810) 2:30pm, Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Three courses including coffee and tea Monday to Thursday Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那 for RMB388/person with 15 percent 里花园4楼D308号 (5208 6188 ) service charge, 11.30am-2.30pm. thursday XIU > Level 1, Valley Wing, Shangri-La Hotel, Buy-one-get-one-free on selected drinks, Greyhound Café 29 Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian 海淀区紫竹院路 Domain 6-9pm. Only RMB28 for a Tsingtao or Bud, and 29号香格里拉酒店1层 (6841 2211-6727) Happy Burger’s Day, 2 for 1 Burger > 6/F, Park Hyatt Beijing, 2 Jianwai Dajie, RMB38 for a mojito or dry martini, 5-7pm. promotion. Chaoyang 北京柏悦酒店, 朝阳区建国门外 > Greyhound Cafe (see listings for > 10.30am-2pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 大街2号6楼 (8567 1108) details) wednesday Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号2层 (8414 Great Leap Brewing 9830) Monday to friday Village Café All day Wednesday, one select beer at Set Lunch, RMB98+15% (3 courses), RMB25. Opus Terrace One East RMB88+15% (2 courses) >At Number 6 Courtyard branch, (see Ladies enjoy free cocktails; on Fridays, it’s Two-course set lunch: RMB118/ per > 11.30am-2.30pm, Bldg 1, The Opposite listings for details) bachelors night, where chaps get 50 percent person, 12:00-2:30pm. House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳 off beer and burgers at the same times, 5-8pm. 2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road, 区三里屯路11号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 Mao Mao Chong > Opus Bar & Terrace, 48 Liangmaqiao North Dong Sanhuan Road, Chaoyang 5210) Cocktails RMB35, 7-11pm. Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路48号朝阳区东三环北路东方路一号北京希尔顿 > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan (5695 8888) 酒店2层 5865 5030 Monday to Saturday Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718) Vics Great Leap Brewing Twilight Free drinks for ladies until midnight. 11:30-2pm, free soft drink or juice with Mon-Sat before 8pm and all day Sun, > Inside the north gate of the Workers’ any burger or salad or add RMB5 for a Elements RMB20 off cocktails. Free mojitos, champagne and cosmos, Stadium, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北门内 Pale Ale #6. > 0102, 3/F, Bldg 5, Jianwai SOHO, 39 9pm-1am. (5293 0333) > At Xinzhong Lu branch only, (see Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝 > 58 Gongti Xi Men, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 listings for details) 阳区东三环39号建外SOHO5号3层0102室体西门58号 (6551 2373) Friday (5900 5376) Hagaki 4Corners Mesh Set lunch, 11.30am-3pm, Bento style House Champaign buy 1 bottle get 1 lunch set from RMB58 with no service Tuesday Ladies get 15 percent off red wine. cheap shots and drink deals at 4Corners’ free. charge. > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 Flamme weekly celebration of KTV. 5-10pm, Daiginjo Sake promotion, Two-for-one steak all day. Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 RMB550 / 150 Bottle / Carafe. > Dashibei Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区石 > 3/F, S4-33 Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun 杯胡同7号 (6401 7797) 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5220) > 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳 Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯

68 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com events

Every day

The Big Smoke 9820) drinks and cocktails. from RMB55-65 Daily 4-7pm, 20 percent off all cocktails, > 4/F, Renaissance Beijing Capital Hotel, > See Listings for details house wines and beers. Flamme 61 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝 > 57 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳 Cocktail, beers and wine by the glass are 阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店4 Beijing Marriott Hotel 区幸福村中路57号楼利世楼 (6416 2683) 50 percent off from 3-7.30pm daily. 层 (5863 8112) Daily 11.30-2pm, dumplings, noodles > S4-33, 3/F, Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun and desserts, including juice or tea, Blue Frog Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯 Transit RMB118. Sun/Sat 11.30-2pm, dim sum, Daily 4-8pm, buy-one-get-one-free all 太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608) Daily 6pm-7:30pm, two-for-one. lobster and unlimited beer, RMB168. drinks. > N4-36, Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11 > 26A Xiaoyun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区霄 > Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, Modo Urban Deli Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 云路甲26号北京海航大厦万豪酒店(5927 S2 Tower, S2-30 Taikoo Li, Sanlitun Lu, 4-7pm cocktails and house wine RMB25 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) 8888) Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路太 and beer RMB15. 古里3层S2-30 (6417 4030) Additional > S10-31, 3/F, Bldg 8, Sanlitun Taikooli Isola Vivid branches in Jiuxianqiao and U-Town (see South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区 11:30am-3pm. Lunch for RMB138. Daily, 6pm-10pm, two-for-one drinks. www.bluefrog.com.cn for details) 三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区8号楼S10- 3-6pm Fashion high tea > Vivid, Level 5, Conrad Beijing, 29 North 31 (6415 7207) 5-8pm Happy hour, two-for-one on Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东 Centro selected drinks 三环北路29号北京康莱德酒店5层 (6584 Daily 5-8pm, two-for-one deals. Mosto 6-10:30 Dinner set menu, 2-course 6310) > Shangri-la’s Kerry Centre Hotel Beijing, 6-7pm discounts on cocktails, wine and RMB238, 3-course RMB258. 1/F, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光 beer. > N3-47, 3/F, Building 3, Taikoo Li North, Transit 华路1号香格里拉北京嘉里中心大酒店1层 > 3/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院太古里 Daily 12pm-2.30pm. Choice of (6561 8833 ext. 42) Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花北区N3-37和 47商铺 (6416 3499) appetizers, mains, rice or noodles with 园3层 (5208 6030) dessert for RMB88. Cuju Bene Restaurant > N4-36/37 Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11 Daily 6-9pm, buy-one-get-one-free draft NOLA Daily 11.30am-2pm. RMB98 includes Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 beer, mixed drinks and soft drinks. 3-8pm. Sun-Thu, half price on Pabst antipasto with main course, pizza or pasta. 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) > 28 Xiguan Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区 Blue Ribbon, Tsingtao and all cocktails > Sheraton Dongcheng, 36 Beisanhuan 西管胡同28号 (6407 9782) including daiquiris. Donglu, Dongcheng 东城区北三环东路36 Factory (By Salt) > A-11 Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai 号 (5798 8888) Until Sep 30 order summer BBQ Feast (Food by East) Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街秀水 catering, from RMB150pp Works for dinner, 2 course RMB168+15% 南街A-11 (8563 6215) Cafe Sambal > Factory A1 North, 797 Middle Street, with a glass of wine or soft drinks. Nasi Campur Malaysian set: two meats 798 Art Zone A, Chaoyang 朝阳区 > 5.30-10.30pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, R Lounge and vegetables each, varying daily. With 798艺术区A区七九七中街01#商务楼北楼 Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号2层 (8414 Daily 6-9pm, two-for-one standard soup, appetizer for RMB78. Curry sets 一层1号 (010 5762-6451)

Weekend

saturday Dom Perignon for RMB1988 for two. Sun 11.30am-3pm, international buffet One East > Ritz-Carlton Beijing Financial Street, with free-flow champagne for RMB458 Either organic tenderloin steak (200g), Great Leap Brewing Jinchengfang Dong, 1 Jinrong Jie, plus 15 percent service charge. organic rib-eye (220g) or angus sirloin All day Tuesday and Sunday, one select Xicheng 西城区金城坊东金融街1号 (6601 > Hilton Beijing Wangfujing, 8 (220g) plus veg or fries incl. a pint of beer at RMB25. 6666) Wangfujing Dongjie, Dongcheng 东城区 beer for RMB270/person 6-10:30pm >At Xinzhong Lu branch, (see listings for 王府井东街8号(5812 8888 ext. 8411) 2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road, details) Senses and Prego North Dong Sanhuan, Chaoyang Sun 11.30am-3pm, Retrolicious Champagne 朝阳区东三环北路东方路一号北京希尔顿 R Lounge Brunch, international and Asian specialties saturday to sunday 酒店2层 5865 5030 Selection of drinks for free all night. with free flow champagne, wines, cocktails Agua > 61 Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang and juices for RMB 458. Prices subject to 15 Sat-Sun, Agua’s Infinity Weekend Brunch Eudora Station 朝阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店 percent service. is RMB298 for infinite food, plus RMB168 Sat-Sun 10am-3pm, breakfast buffet with 4层 (5863 8241) > The Westin Beijing Financial Street, 9B for free flow drinks. one main and free flow juice or coffee Financial Street, Xicheng 西城区金融大街 > 12-2:30pm (free flow until 3pm), for RMB98. sunday 乙9号(6629 7810) Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, > Opposite Lido Palace, 6 Fangyuan Xi Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花 Lu. Chaoyang 朝阳区芳园西路6号(6437 Great Leap Brewing Seasonal Tastes 园4楼D308号 (5208 6188) 8331) All day Tuesday and Sunday, one select Sun 11.30am-3pm Unlimited buffet for beer at RMB25. RMB428-498 per person plus 15 percent Aroma Sui Yuan >At Xinzhong Lu branch, (see listings for surcharge. Sat-Sun 11.30am-3pm, international Sat-Sun and public holidays 10.30am- details) > Westin Chaoyang, 7 North buffet starting at RMB518 plus 15 2.30pm, unlimited dim sum for RMB128 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东 percent service charge. plus 15 percent surcharge. The Village Cafe 三环北路7号(5922 8880) Ritz-Carlton Beijing, 83A Jianguo Lu, > Hilton Double Tree, 168 Guang’anmen Sun 3:30pm-sold out. Sunday roast China Central Place, Chaoyang 朝阳区建 Waidajie, Xicheng 西城区广安门外大街 RMB98 (+15%; 50% off for kids under Sureño 国路83甲(5908 8161) 168号 (6338 1999 ext. 1726) 12) RMB228 for 2 courses, RMB328 for 3 > The Opposite House, Building 1, No. 11 courses. Supplement RMB150 for free Café Sambal Yi House Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路 flow cocktails; supplement RMB200 for Sat-Sun, RMB98, Café Sambal is rolling Sat-Sun international set menu for 11 号院 1 号楼瑜舍酒店 free flow Champaign (all prices subject out weekend brunch. Three courses plus RMB308. to 15% service charge) coffee, tea or fruit punch. > Grace Hotel, Bldg 2, 1, 706 Hou Jie, 798 Qi > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 > 43 Doufuchi Hutong, Jiugulou Dajie, Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang Sun 11.30am-2pm, all-you-can-eat dim Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同朝阳区酒仙桥路2号院798艺术区706后街1 sum including one double-boiled soup 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5240) 43号 (6400 4875) 号 (6436 1818) for RMB288 per person. Add a bottle of Vasco’s

www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 69 Expensive...... ¥ Expense Account ...... ¥¥ Recommended ...... * listings Top Ten ...... ** The Horizon (Cantonese, Sichuan, Beijing OPEN DOOR restaurant Duck)* Kerry Hotel’s recently rennovated Chinese The Hot One Hundred restaurant has widened its predominantly About This guide represents our editors’ Cantonese and Sichuan horizons to include top 100 picks, and includes some That’s dim sum, double-boiled soups and Peking Beijing advertisers. Restaurants rated(*) Duck – and the roast bird here really is fabulous. have been personally reviewed by our > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5:30pm-10pm 1/F, Beijing experts, and scored according to the Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路 cuisine, experience and affordability. 1号嘉里中心1层 (8565 2188)

Jing Yaa Tang (Chinese, Peking Duck) CHINESE Resembling something between a nightclub and theater, the Opposite House’s Contemporary & Mixed Cuisine basement restaurant proves to be more than just style over substance with their 8 Qi Nian (Cantonese/Sichuan/Hunan) range of classic dishes. Don’t ask about the The New World Hotel’s flagship restaurant double A, though. has classic Chinese cuisine in abundance, > Daily 12-10:30pm, B1/F, The Opposite House, as well as some vitality-restoring medicinal Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号 soups. (Their decent wine list is just as 楼瑜舍酒B1楼 (6410 5230) effective.) >Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:15pm, 5:30-9:30pm, Sat/Sun Wu Li Xiang (Cantonese, Sichuan) * 12-2:45pm, 5:30-9:30pm; 2/F, New World Hotel, 8 Impressive views don’t detract from the Qinian Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区祈年大街8号新世界 exquisitely presented cuisine of Chef Kam, 酒店2层 (5960 8822) especially the famous dim sum. Swanky classics from all the main culinary regions Bellagio (Taiwanese) of China, like Sichuan and Hong Kong, Where else can you carve through moun- including “Monk Jump Over the Wall,” tainous shaved ice desserts and suck down photo by noemi cassanelli noemi by photo braised pork in oyster sauce. creamy bubble teas at 5am? A favorite > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm. 2-3/F, Traders Upper among the city’s hip and young, this East Hotel, Beijing, 2 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang ART-RESTAURANT DACHA swanky Taiwanese restaurant chain is best District 朝阳区东四环北路2号北京上东盛贸饭店二三 enjoyed long after dark. 层 (5907 8406) > 6 Gongti Xilu Chaoyang 工体西路6号 (6551 3533) Modeled On a Classic See www.bellagiocafe.com.cn for more locations Peking Duck Din Tai Fung ¥ (Taiwanese) Russia is a country with a weighty political history; we always assumed the Da Dong * Among the city’s most famous haunts, Da state’s staple potato and meat dishes reflected bureaucrat exuberance. But, Dong guarantees slick carvings of Beijing- the heaviest thing about the cuisine at Art-Restaurant Dacha in Yabaolu are style roast duck and delectable wrap fillings. The venue’s a class act and the plum the place’s wooden menus. Decorated in creamy linen and finished wood, res- sauce is hard to follow. taurant diners can lean into cushy couches while enjoying appetizers of fresh > Daily 11am-10pm. No.22 Dongsishitiao, mango salad with chicken, tiger shrimp and sweet chili (RMB48), and the lamb Dongcheng 东城区东四十条甲22号 (5169 0328 See www.dadongdadong.com for more locations Daily rack with mustard sauce (RMB98) as an entree. At a restaurant whose main cli- 11am-10pm) entele is Beijing’s vast model population, plates are dressed to perfection, and a Duck de Chine ¥ * stage is located in the front where dance shows are performed every evening at Good duck is meant to show your guests 8:30pm and 10:45pm. how wonderful you are, as much as the food. Duck De Chine does that in spades, > Daily 10am-3am, 1 Ritan Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区日坛路1号 (8563 5765) with fantastic presentation of its crispy, succulent duck (RMB188). > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm; 6-10.30pm. Courtyard 4, 1949 The Hidden City, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8881): 98 This Taipei-based franchise impressed Ken Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng District 东城区金宝街98号 Hom enough to call it one of the best 10 (6521 2221) eateries in the world, back in 1993. Famous for its dependably delicious xiaolongbao Shanghai or little steam buns. Book ahead, there’s always a long wait. Jade Garden (Shanghainese) > Xinyuanli branch: 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm Southern cuisine in a sophisticated setting. Weekends 11.30am-10pm. Yu Yang Branch (渔阳店): Jardin de Jade Jasmine-tea Smoked Duck 24 Middle Street, Xinyuanxili, Chaoyang 朝阳区新源 (RMB78), Xiaolongbao dumplings (RMB 西里中街24号 (近渔阳饭店) (6462 4502) > Additional 22), Eight Treasure Rice (Babao Fan, RMB branches in Shin Kong Place; Parkview Green; Grand 22) and more. Particularly convivial on the Pacific Mall Xidan; Modern Plaza Zhongguancun weekends with Cantonese families gather- (see www.dintaifung.com.cn for details) ing for dim-sum feasts. > Daily 11am-10.30pm Bldg 6, Jiqingli, Green T (Fine Dining) Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝 Although the inspiration is ‘Tang Dynasty 外大街吉庆里6号楼 (6552 8688, for other locations bathhouse,’ the effect is more ‘Whoah.’ An visit www.jade388.com/su/index.aspx) indoor tea bath occupies a slate-tiled space scattered with artistic curios, along side Shanghai Min Indian Kitchen a vegetable allotment, outdoor Jacuzzi, Many swear this chain has the best wooden trestle table and 1,500-sqm villa. Shanghai-style hongshaorou north of the The space has a design award by Wallpa- Yangtze. The jury’s out, but its popularity Food Meant for Sharing per* magazine and came third in the Daily remains. Meal’s Top 101 Asian restaurants. > 0505, 5/F Raffles City Mall, 1 Dongzhimen Nan Expect the Chinese waiting staff to be dressed in vibrant Indian sherwanis; > Daily 11.30am-11.30pm. 318 Hegezhuang Village, Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门南大街1号来福士购 Cuigezhuang, Chaoyang 朝阳区崔各庄乡合各庄村物中心5楼0505号铺 (400 820 9777) Additional loca- expect the mutton vindaloo (RMB60) to be exceptionally creamy; expect droves 318号 (8456 4922 Ext 8, 136 0113 7132, 136 0113 tions in Financial Street; Jinbao Jie; Oriental Plaza; of in-the-know Indians to be there relishing a taste of home; but, most of all, 7232; www.green-t-house.com) Sanlitun Soho; Xinyuan Nan Lu (see www.online. thatsmags.com for details) expect to be surprised by the informality of Indian Kitchen. Located directly Najia Xiaoguan (Imperial Dining) south of the Liangma River in Sanlitun, the casual atmosphere of Indian Kitchen A hugely popular Manchu restaurant, Wang Jia Sha (Shanghainese) makes it an anomaly among other white table clothed options nearby. first opened by an emperor’s doctor, you Modern Shanghai cuisine – popular with choose your dishes from a carved wooden Hong Kong celebrities – famed for its crab- Indian food is like Chinese in that sharing is best. Don’t miss the tandoori plat- tray: 18-hour stewed huang tanzi, fatty meat dumplings. Try the spiced-salt ribs ter (RMB136), a weighty dish of sizzling marinated cuts or the mango chicken ox hoof,crispy fried shrimp, chicken with (RMB62) for a bit of Adam action. walnut. Reservations are required to get > Reservation (86 10) 6416 3469 S1-30a Taikoo Li (RMB60), which offers something a bit zingier to cut through any creamy cur- a place in this two-storey, quintessentially Sanlitun(on the third floor of i.t shop)朝阳区三里屯 ries. Any meals at Indian kitchen is punctuated by grabbing and dipping and Imperial China restaurant. 路19号院太古里1号楼3层S1-30a号商铺 (hopefully graceful) accidental splattering is encouraged. Expect to finish your > Daily 1130am-10pm; 10 Yonganli (south of the LG Twin Towers, west of 119 Middle School), Sichuan meal at Indian Kitchen with very little room left for dessert. Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大 > Mon-Fri 11am- 2:30pm, 5:30pm- 11pm; 2/F Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 街永安里10号(双子座大厦南侧, 119中学西侧)(6567 Chuan Ban * 3663, 6568 6553) This bright, modestly decorated dining hall 朝阳区三里屯北小街2F (6462 7255) is frequently cited as Beijing’s best Sichuan

70 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com listings restaurant. Haidilao > Mon-Fri 7-9am, 10.50am-2pm, 4.50-9.30pm; Sat- Hot pot in China is like religion; everyone’s OPEN DOOR Sun 7am-10pm 5 Gongyuan Toutiao, Jianguomennei got their own brand. Either way, the raw Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区建国门内贡院头条5 meats and vegetables, cooked communally, 号 (6512 2277, ext. 6101) is divine, and the outstanding customer service makes Haidilao a fitting church Transit ¥¥ * > Daily, 24 hours. 2A Baijiazhuang Lu (beside No. 80 Sichuan is known for its blazing spices and Middle School), Chaoyang District 朝阳区白家庄路 its equally hot girls. While the latter are up 甲2号 (八十中学西侧)(6595 2982, for other locations to you, the creative minds at Transit have visit http:>www.haidilaohuoguo.com) made some fiery additions to the classical, chili-thumping canon, and they will charge Regional you for that knowledge. But unlike many equally expensive joints, this is high-end Crescent Moon (Xinjiang) * Chinese dining at its best. Roast mutton enthusiasts go over the > Daily 12-2.30pm, 6 -10pm. N4-36, Sanlintun Taikoo moon at this reputable Xinjiang Muslim Li North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三 restaurant. Eastern European and Central 里屯路11号三里屯Taikooli北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) Asian influences are evident throughout, with peppery and cumin-spiced dishes Yuxiang Renjia livening up traditional Chinese favorites. Most branches maintain simple decora- > 弯弯月亮 16 Dongsi Liutiao 东四六条16号 (6400- tions, with black-and-white photos of 5281) traditional houses, river towns in the south, and strings of dried red chilis and garlic Da Gui (Guizhou) hanging on the wall. So, too, is their menu: Guizhou’s famed hot-and-sour cuisine nes- old-fashion and reliably good. The lazi ji is tled into a charming traditional alleyway. crispy but not too greasy, the pepper-sauce Munch happily into pickled greens and noodle, with spinach, is filling and refresh- don’t miss the salty-sweet deep-fried black ing. Assorted confections are guaranteed sesame balls. They’re sensational. to offer comfort to numbed-and-burned > Daily 10am-2pm, 5-10pm. 69 Daxing Hutong, SóU, TANGLA HOTEL TIANJIN tongues, too. Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口大兴胡 > Daily 11am-2pm, 5-9pm 5/F, Lianhe Dasha (Union 同69号 (6407 1800) Plaza), 20 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District So Very High 朝阳区朝阳门外大街20号联合大厦五层 (6588 3841 Makye Ame (Tibetan) for other locations visit www.yuxiangrenjia.com) Determined to prove that Tibetan cuisine consists of more than just yak-butter tea, Located on the 49th floor of the Tangla Hotel, with insurmountable views over Yunnan the Beijing branch of this nationwide chain the towers of central Tianjin, SóU ranks as one of the city’s more imposing serves up nomadic classics such as curried Dali Courtyard * potatoes and roast lamb. The original cosy dining destinations. In the quiet serenity that such elevation offers, take in the If you like authentic Yunnanese food, you’ll Xiushui location is great for winter. view of Tianjin’s ever-growing collection of skyscrapers poking through the have to trust the staff: there’s no menu, > Daily 10-midnight, 11A Xiushui Nanjie, clouds as you prepare for a blowout dinner in their black marbled penthouse. it all just arrives in an intimate courtyard Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外 setting. The price (RMB120pp) matches the 秀水南街甲11号, (6506 9616) However, despite the appearance, a dinner at SóU doesn’t actually need to rustic ingredients. be so wallet-busting. The buffet and a la carte combo (RMB388/pp + service) > Daily Midday-2pm; 6-10.30pm. Gulou Dong Dajie, Xinjiang Red Rose (Xinjiang) * 67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城 Beijing’s most famous Xinjiang restaurant blends the best of Japanese and European cuisine, equally suited to feasting 区鼓楼东大街小经厂胡同67号 (8404 1430) serves some of the tenderest lamb skewers with colleagues or impressing a date. We select some hand crafted sashimi and around, matched by enormous servings of sushi, followed by some tempura and mixed salads, before sitting down to the Lost Heaven ¥ (Yunnan, SE Asian) dishes like dapan ji (a chicken, potato and An emphasis on Yunnan characterises this pepper stew), latiaozi (noodles with a spicy à la carte mains – Boston half lobster with cheese gratin or garlic butter, fol- menu’s fresh journey through the SE Asia tomato sauce) and baked flatbread (nang). lowed by a choice of Australian lamb chop, grain-fed sirloin steak or grain-fed passage, with a grandiose yet Nightly performances (starting at 7.40pm) dark teak interior. feature live music and belly dancers with beef tenderloin. After dinner it’s cocktails and jazz in the upstairs bar > Daily noon-2pm, 5pm-10.30 (bar open till 1am). snakes – you might find yourself dragged > Daily 6am-9:30pm (breakfast 6:30-10am, lunch 11:30am-2pm, dinner 5:30- Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng on-stage to join in. District 东城区前门东大街23号(8516 2698) > Daily 10.30am-11pm. Inside 7 Xingfu Yicun alley, 9:30pm); 49F, Tangla Hotel Tianjin, No. 219 Nanjing Road, Heping District, opposite Workers’ Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang Tianjin天津市和平区南京路219号49层天津中心唐拉雅秀酒店(022 2321 5888) Middle 8th Restaurant * District 朝阳区工人体育场北门对面幸福一村7巷内 Make room for the mushrooms – especially (6415 5741) the Kungpao – at this busy chain. Hip and slightly swanky, without being pretentious, WESTERN this is a celebration of all things ‘south of the clouds’ – so try crisp-fried worms, or Fine Dining “crossing-the-bridge” noodles, beef jerky- style yak meat and fresh, wild herbs galore. Aria ¥¥ (European) * > The Place Branch: Daily 11am-11pm, L404A, South A gold standard of opulence and, at Tower, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District RMB1,100 for the Wagyu beef and starters 朝阳区光化路9号世贸天阶南楼L404A (6587 1431) around RMB150, the prices reflect that. Additional venues in Sanlitun; Tai Koo Li Mall; Indigo In-house sommeliers help tailor your meal Mall (see www.middle8th.com for details) perfectly. > Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-midnight; Sat- Yun’er Small Town Sun 6-10pm. Second floor, China World Hotel, 1 Folksy Yunnanese fare on Beiluoguxiang. Jianguomenwai Waidajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 Fragrant dishes including the jasmine bulbs 建国门外大街 (6505 2266 ext. 36) with scrambled eggs, lemongrass shrimp, and banana leaf wrapped bolete mush- Barolo ¥¥ (Italian) * rooms will keep us crawling back. Average Italian abounds in Beijing: not > Daily 10am-11pm, 84 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng here, though. Quite the opposite, in fact, District, 东城区北锣鼓巷84号 (8404 2407) meaning Barolo is as well-regarded as the Piedmont wine it is named after. We have a RMB1,000 meal voucher to Dumplings > Mon-Sun 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm. Ritz Carlton Hotel, China Central Place, 83A Jianguo Lu, give away. To win, Baoyuan Jiaoziwu Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国路甲83号华贸中心丽思 email bjeditor@ 卡尔顿酒店内 (5908 8151) Famous for their rainbow of dyed dump- urbanatomy.com

‘Mai Westin’ cassanelli noemi by photo lings, Baoyuan have their jiaozi (six, under Brasserie Flo ¥¥ (French) * RMB10) wrapped in a larger yuanbao Marble slabs, mosaic floors and brass silver-ingot shape, with creative vegetarian fittings establish the Parisian bona fides; Mai, The Westin Chaoyang options and authentic Sichuan food. dishes like snails (RMB78), oysters (RMB48 > Daily 11am-10pm. North of 6 Maizidian Jie, each) and steak tartare (RMB158) confirm. Chaoyang District 朝阳区麦子店街6号楼北侧 (6586 4967) The grandeur is matched only by the ser- Bento-ver Backwards to Serve You vice, and the prices reflect the authenticity of the experience. Mr Shi’s Dumplings * For a country known for its minimalism, Mai Japanese restaurant in The Westin The ultimate in Beijing-style dumplings, > Daily 11am-midnight. 18 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路18号 (6595 5135, www.flo.cn/ Chaoyang strikes a lavish alternative. Gold and satin line the interior, and sushi they really don’t come better than this. Find brasserie/restaurants/beijing) it and you’ll never go elsewhere. and champagne bars are located within.The opulence extends to its food, too, > 74 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, Brian McKenna @The Courtyard ¥¥ (Con- Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同74号 with more than 30 kinds of sushi available on the menu; two types of fish are (8405 0399, 131 6100 3826) temporary Western) * Innovative and creative dishes are de rigeur imported directly from Japan. The sushi and sashimi tray (RMB358) includes Hot Pot at the Michelin-starred Irish chef’s reinven- the chef’s choice of seven nigiri and three kinds of sashimi. Top that with the tion of this long-standing Beijing fine restaurants selection of sake and it would appear Mai was built exclusively for dining institution. Ding Ding Xiang * the hotel’s businessmen clientele. Not so. For much of the appeal of Mai can be Classier than most hot-pot joints, Ding Ding > Daily, restaurant 6pm-10pm, bar 5-11pm, 95 XIang features a spacious dining room of Donghuamen Avenue, Dongcheng District 东城区东 found in lunchtime bento boxes. The unajyu dozen (RMB148) includes a large 华门大街95号 (6526 8883) sweaty-faced patrons enjoying high-grade portion of eel on rice, tuna and salmon sashimi, miso soup, several kinds of huo guo in their own individual pot. The Capital M ¥ (Contemporary Western) ** preserved vegetables, steamed egg and a small fruit plate. If the sushi and sake delicious sesame sauce (the recipe is a The Art Deco interior, swish staff and closely guarded secret) is a Beijing classic. breathtaking views over the archery towers are for businessmen looking to spend, then this bento is for the layman feeling > Daily 11am-10pm. 2/F, Yuanjia International from Qianmen ensures the pinnacle of starved – we weren’t even able to finish the vast plate. Apartments, Dongzhimenwai, Dongzhong Jie (opposite East Gate Plaza), Dongcheng District 东城区 al-fresco dining, with world-class modern > Mon-Sun 5:30pm-10:30pm (Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm); 2/F, The Westin European stylings and deliciously posh 东直门外东中街东环广场对面元嘉国际公寓2层 (6417 Beijing Chaoyang, 7 Dongsanhuan Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路7号金茂威 9289, for other locations visit www.dingdingxiang. afternoon tea. Our 2013 editor’s pick for com.cn) restaurant of the year. 斯汀大饭店2层 (5922 8888 ext. 8758)

www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 71 listings

> Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Floor 3, 2 Qianmen (6407 6308) OPEN DOOR Buxingjie, Chongwen District 东城区前门步行街2 号3层 (6702 2727, www.m-restaurantgroup.com/ Yi House (Contemporary Western) capitalm/home.html) Nestled in the confines of the 798 Art District, Yi’s great tasting brunch is bettered Mio ¥¥ only by their wide range of cocktail concoc- Glitzy Italian fare at the Four Seasons, with tions. Sundays offer jazz brunches with a mobile Bellini cart, wheeled straight lobster and champagne. Our 2013 readers’ to your table. Chef Marco Calenzo crafts choice for Restaurant of the Year. a superb squash tortellini by hand, and > Daily 11am-3pm, 6pm-12am. 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798 pampers diners with desserts like the Yishu Qu, No.1 706 Houjie, Chaoyang District 朝阳 deconstructed tiramisu. 区酒仙桥路2号院798艺术区706后街1号 (6436 1818) >Daily, lunch 11:30am - 2:30pm, dinner 5:30pm -10:30pm Four Seasons Hotel, 48 Liang Ma Qiao Café/Deli/Sandwich Road, Chaoyang District, 北京四季酒店亮马桥路48 号, 朝阳区(5695 8888) Allday’s (Café) S.T.A.Y. ¥¥ (French) Luxury dining with three-Michelin-starred chef Alléno Yannick’s back-to-basics kitchen concept, managed by the youthful team of Maxime Gilbert as ‘Chef de Cuisine’ executing the quarterly menus, and Florian Couteau working the ‘pastry library.’ Classic dishes usually include dishes such as steak, foie gras, rack of lamb, plus a spit roast and grill for simple fine-dining. > Daily 11:30am -2:30pm; 5:30pm-10pm; Sundays 11am- 4pm. Shangri La, Valley Wing, Level 1, 29 Tim’s Texas BBQ Zizhuyuan Road, Beijing 紫竹院路29号北京香格里拉饭店 (6841 2211, Ext. 6727) Don’t Mess with Texas Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB) ¥¥ (Contemporary Western) ** Setting is everything here, especially if You’ve got to hand it to Tim and that indistinguishable Texas BBQ of his. When it’s fashioned inside a restored Buddhist Japanese-owned Allday’s is an oasis of calm temple. The bold contemporary European a fire in a neighboring restaurant forced authorities to shut off power to his just outside the hustle and bustle of cuisine is fitting in majesty and the service Sanlitun. Plenty of options for a caffeine building, instead of kicking up a fuss he simply found a way to light up his digs alone is worthy of worship. boost compliment a wide range of Western (using some e-bike batteries and some strip lighting) and continued to serve > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6–10pm. 23 Songzhusi Temple, Shatan Beijie, Dongcheng District 东城 staples from the kitchen. the coldest beers and best margarita’s in town. Talk about stoic southern hos- 区沙滩北街嵩祝寺23号 (8400 2232, www.temple- > Daily 7am-11pm, Unit 1, Tongguang Plaza, 12 restaurant.com/) Nongzhanguan South Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳 pitality in the face of uncertainty. Nevertheless it’s been a rocky time for Tim, so 区农展馆南里12号通广大厦1楼底商 (6538 9488) pay him a visit near the Silk Market to show your support. Monday night after Contemporary Western Beiluo Bread Bar (Café) 5pm it’s buy one get one free on brisket plate or sandwich; Wednesdays are This local hipster café favorite offers in- half dozen wings for RMB28, dozen for RMB50; Friday is unlimited cocktails and Alﬁe’s ¥ (British) house baked bread and sandwiches but What’s all this about, then? British gastro- we usually go for the hand-pulled noodles. well drink from 6-10pm for RMB98; and Saturdays is Shrimp Boil time – large pub classics, (like pukker fish Gets cozy at night. juicy shrimp in a spicy Cajun sauce. Reservations recommended. and chips, RMB188), a swanky gentle- > Tue-Sun 12-10pm. 70A Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng man’s club interior, and located in a chic District 东城区北锣鼓巷甲70号(近南锣鼓巷)(8408 > Daily 9am-midnight, Silk#2 building, 14 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District modern art gallery-cum-mall. That’s what, 3069) 朝阳区东大桥路14号秀水2号院 (6591 9161) mate. > Daily, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, brunch served Café Zarah (Café) on weekends, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Red armchairs, table candles and a match- Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路9号芳草地L1-22 ing Gaggia machine harmonize the creamy, (5662 8777) minimalist interior of this cafe, popular with young professionals. The Austrian- Caribeño (Latin) style breakfast sets here are the real deal, Heavy Cuban influence, but there are while Zarah’s coffee also trumps just about dished from all over the Latin continent any in town. here. The Ropa Vieja (shredded beef on > Daily 9.30am-midnight 42 Gulou Dongdajie, potato) is excellent – as are the Mojitos. Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街42号 (8403 > Daily 11:30am-9:30pm, 1/F, China Overseas Plaza, 9807) 8 Guanghua Dongli, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东里8号中海广场北楼1层 (5977 2789) Element Fresh (Contemporary Western) Another import from Shanggers, this is Chi (Organic, Fusion) boutique salads-and-sandwich lunching, Hutong dining par-excellence, with organic with somewhat questionable price tags. ingredients all locally sourced, from the The recent revamp also affected the latter. owners of neighboring Saffron. > Daily Mon-Fri 10am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am-11pm. > Daily, opens 10:30am, last order 9:30pm, 67 833, Building 8, 19 Sanlitun Village South, Sanlitun Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区五道 Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯营胡同67号 (6445 7076) Village南区8号楼833 (6417 1318)

Grill 79 (Steak) MODO Urban Deli (Contemporary With views this good, Grill 79 would prob- Western)* ably make it onto the list even if the food Yates Wine Lodge this is not. Unconven- was terrible. It’s something of a bonus then tional and great fun, this compact eatery that the kitchen is superb, and supported was designed around an ever-changing by one of the most extensive wine lists in selection of fine wines. Serves up fresh town. tapas style food and original finger foods. > Daily 6.30-10.30am, noon-2pm, 6-10pm. 79/F, The luxury sandwiches are fantastic for China World Trade Center Phase 3, 1 Jianguomenwai picnics, with the smoked salmon and the TRANSIT Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸 Cuban (RMB68), complete with crispy pork 大酒店79楼 (6505 2299 ext 6424) belly, is one of the best sarnies ever. > Sun-Thu noon-10pm, Fri-Sat noon-10.30pm. 3/F, Sichuan in Motion Missa (European) * Sanlitun Taikoo Li South (close to Element Fresh), 19 Whether it is the tender, imported cuts of Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号 meat or the long list of expertly made and 三里屯Taikooli南区3楼(近新元素) (6415 7207) Transit tells a tale of relocation in modern China, first opening in 2002 in a creative cocktails going down your gullet, hutong near Gongti, before the locale was slated for demolition four years you can’t really go wrong at this refined MOKA Bros (Contemporary Western) * later. It has since found refuge on the third floor of Taikoo Li North in Sanlitun, relaxed lounge like restaurant. Highly Power bowls, salads and wraps are the kind recommended of fare on offer at this trendy Nali Patio but has remained consistent throughout is its frankly stunning Sichuanese- > Daily 6pm-late. 32-33, 3/F, Bldg 3, Sanlitun Taikoo space, which also has a great selection of Southeast Asian fusion cuisine. Li North, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯Taikooli北区3号楼3 cakes and pastries if you’re feeling more 层32-33 (137 1851 7917) The beauty of Transit’s fare lies in its ability to maintain the cuisine’s dis- indulgent. Mosto * ¥ (European, South American) > Sanlitun: Sun-Thu 11am-10:30pm, Fri/Sat 11am- tinct sense of spice, without losing the complexity behind it, best exemplified 11:30pm, B101b Nali Patio South, 81 Sanlitun Beilu A perpetually busy lunch and evening spot, by dishes like the perennially popular ma-la Spicy Chicken (RMB98) and the Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号B101B南楼 (5208 thanks to chef Daniel Urdaneta’s skill for 6079) > Solana: Solana Lakeside Dining Street, 6 gloriously subtle braised Atlantic cod fish in Sichuan sauce (RMB 238) among modernising South American-style dishes Chaoyang Park Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区湖畔美食街 like ceviche and risotto in his open kitchen. 朝阳公园路6号院蓝色港湾 (5905 6259) many others. > Sun-Thu noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; Fri-Sat noon- The restaurant is tastefully decorated throughout and while this is certainly 2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Nasca Café fine dining, it also feels relaxed and accessible. If you want to top off your meal Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3 Colorful and quirky shopping mall style 层 (5208 6030) café, with Amazonian coffee, teas and with a superbly-crafted cocktail, then the adjoining Cicada Ultralounge is just there’s a decent range of sandwiches and ’ moments away. Stuﬀ d (Contemporary Western) pizzas, available for delivery. The concept of Stuff’d is to simply stuff If you’ve been to Transit you’ll know that this is an absolute must in > Daily 11am-10pm, B1/F, City Mall, 1 Xinyuan Nanlu, one kind of food in another. From sausage Chaoyang 朝阳区新源南路1号都汇天地购物中心B1 Beijing. If you haven’t – go now. calzone pizzas (RMB68) to scotch eggs – it 楼 (6592 4537) > Additional branches in Sanlitun all works. On-site micro brewery a bonus. South; Volkswagen Building, Liangmahe (see online. > Daily 11am-2.30pm, 6-10pm; N4-36, Third Floor, Taikoo Li North, Sanlitun Lu, > Wed-Mon, 11:30am-2:45pm, 6-10pm, 9 Jianchang thatsmags.com for details) Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路三里屯VILLAGE北区 N4-36三层 (6417 9090) Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区箭厂胡同9号

72 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com listings

The Rug (Contemporary Western, Burgers Guess what? It works. Killer range of classic be the biggest in town. Organic)* Cali’ cocktails, too. > Sanlitun 3.3 Branch: Mon-Fri 10am-10pm, Sat/Sun With ingredients supplied by local organic Blue Frog > Daily 11:30am-midnight (closed Mondays) 14 10am-11pm, delivery Mon-Thu 11:30am-10:30pm, farms like Dahe and De Run Wu, and an This Shanghai hamburger franchise has Zhangwang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街 Fri-Sun 11:30am-11pm 3/F, 3.3 Building, No. 33 emphasis on sustainability, this Chaoyang been keeping Americans in China obese 张旺胡同14号 (6405 4352) Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District 三里屯北街33号 Park café’s menu of locally milled bagels is since it opened. Monday’s burger deal is 3.3服装大厦3层3008号 ( 5136 5571, delivery 8989 always packed. Italian 177) Additional branches in Gongti, Beida, Beitai, a hit with green types, bored foreign moms Yayancun, Solana and Weigongcun, see www. > Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, S2 Tower, and freelance Macbook types. tubestationpizza.com.cn for details) > Mon-Fri 7.30am-10:30pm, Sat/Sun 9:30am- S2-30 Taikoo Li, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳 Assaggi ¥ * This fine Italian spot in the leafy embassy 10:30pm; Bldg 4, Lishui Jiayuan, Chaoyang 区三里屯路太古里3层S2-30 (6417 4030) Additional Spanish Gongyuan Nanlu (opposite Chaoyang Park South branches in Jiuxianqiao and U-Town (see www.blue- district has one of Beijing’s best terraces for frog.com.cn for details) summer dining. The tagliata steak is worth Gate), Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园南路丽水嘉 Agua ¥ 园4号楼(朝阳公园南门对面) (8550 2722) > Additional a return visit. location in Sanlitun Nan Jie Burger Bar > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11:30pm. 1 Sanlitun Don’t be fooled by the American diner-style Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街1号 (8454 Vineyard Cafe on the River (British) interior, Burger Bar’s pedigree of bap 4508) New Vineyard offshoot opposite of the Li- fillings include wagyu beef, foie gras and angma River. Menu features British classics truffles. Burger King this ain’t. Bene ¥ * like Fish & Chips and Bangers & Mash. The > Sun-Thu 11:30am-10pm, Fri/Sat 11:30am-midnight, Chef Ricci will have you singing like a sopra- breezy terrace is primed for a pint of the B2/F, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Road 朝阳区东 no with his pork ravioli and prize-winning handcraft beer or a carafe of Pimms. 大桥路9号侨福芳草地大厦地下二层 ( 5690 7000) tiramisu. Excellent set menus (RMB588) and 6th Anniversary >Daily Tu-Fr 1130am-3pm 6pm-12am kitchen extensive wine selection. closes at 10pm, Sa-Su 1130am-3ppm 6pm-12am, Steak > Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. Sheraton Liangmahe Nanlu, west side of Xindong Lu, across Beijing Dongcheng, 36 Northeast Third Ring Road, is Coming Soon! the street from Yuyang Hotel, Chaoyang District, 朝 29 Grill (Contemporary Western) * Dongcheng District 东城区北三环东路36号(5798 阳区亮马河南路新东路西侧渔阳饭店对面(8532 5335) Top-notch steak, along with just about eve- 8995) ry other cut of meat found in the barnyard Wagas (Contemporary Western) in this well-priced meat-eaters’ mecca. Cepe ¥ Quality eats with minimal pretension. This > Tues-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm; 3/F Corad Beijing, 29 In a city inundated with Italian offerings, stylish, no-fuss Shanghai rival to Element Dongsanhuan Beilu. Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环 Cepe manages to stand out thanks to it’s Fresh offers some of the best and most 北路9号1层 (6584 6270) attention to the smallest detail – everything affordable Western lunch options in town. from the vinaigrette to the Parma ham Occupying the high end of Nali’s Spanish The zesty carrot-and-zucchini cake is a Morton’s of Chicago ¥¥ (American) * is import quality, and the wine is superb. invasion, Agua excels with reasonably crowd pleaser. Meat so tender the knife falls through it: Consider it the culinary equivalent of a priced classics like suckling pig, chorizo and > Daily 8am-10pmS8-33, 3/F, 8 building, 19 South ritzy Morton’s deserves the worldwide finely tailored suit. jamon. Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯 praise. Expensive, but where else are you > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. The Ritz- > Daily Midday-2pm, 6pm-10pm. 4/F, Nali Patio, 81 Village南区三层 (6416-5829) Additional location in going to get steak this good? (Try the Carlton Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang Dongjie, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号 The Kerry Centre (see www.online.thatsmags.com RMB550 set menu if you want to save cash) Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District 那里花园 (5208 6188) for details) > Mon-Sat 5:30-11pm, Sun 5-10:30pm; 2/F, Regent 西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街丽思卡顿酒店大堂 Hotel, 99 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng District 东城区金宝 (6601 6666) Migas ¥ * American/BBQ/Grill 街99号丽晶酒店二层 (6523 7777) The boys at Migas have turned a concept Isola Bar & Grill bar into a thriving Mediterranean res- The Big Smoke Steak Exchange Restaurant+Bar ¥¥ (Con- Isola’s elegant design, even by Tai Koo Li taurant, bar and party venue, and one of Taking the Home Plate BBQ concept and temporary Western) * North standards, is classic Italian panache – summer’s rooftop destinations. upscaling was a gourmet masterstroke. Full The bill is hopefully on the company kuai at and so is the food. Beef carpaccio, burrata, > Daily 10am-3pm, 5pm- late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 menu evenings-only (also delivers rotisserie this opulent eatery, where charcoal-grilled Strozzapreti (handed twisted pasta) are chicken via Uncle Otis). cuts of 250-day, grain-fed Australian Angus Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号 all fantastic, but just as good is a classic 那里花园6层 (5208 6061) > Daily Mon-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-10pm. start from around RMB428 and merrily Margherita pizza. First Floor, Lee World Building (opposite Frost Nails), spiral. But the meat is unquestionably suc- > Daily, 11:30am-10:30pm, N3-47, 3/F, Building O’Steak 57 Xingfucun Zhong Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区幸 culent, and cooked exactly to order. Quality 3, Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang A well-cooked steak in Beijng isn’t all that 福村中路 57号楼利世楼 (6416 5195, 6416 268,www. seafood and gorgeous desserts, too. District 朝阳区三里屯路11号院太古里北区N3-37和 47 rare anymore, and here we have affordable uncle-otis.com) > Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10.30pm. 商铺 (www.gaiagroup.com.hk/isola-beijing, reserva- but quality cuts. Don’t be fooled by the InterContinental Beijing Financial Street, 11 Jinrong [email protected]; 6416 3499) Irish sounding name, not a pint of Guinness Home Plate BBQ * Jie, Xicheng District 西城区金融街11号北京金融街洲 in sight. Scruffy looks and laid-back staff belie the 际酒店 (5852 5921) Mercante ¥ * > Daily midday-midnight, 55-7 Xingfucun Zhonglu, popularity of this entry-level Old World family charm in an intimate Chaoyang District, 朝阳区幸福村中路55-7 (8488 brick-smoker barbecue joint, that blos- Flamme (Contemporary Western) hutong setting. Time (and, occasionally, 8250) soms in the sunny months. Pulled-pork service) slows with a rustic menu from Bo- sandwiches are the favorites, followed by logna offering an assortment of homemade Parnas ¥ baby-back rib racks, but lesser dishes like pastas and seasonal mains. Don’t be fooled by the Greek name – this the rib tips, sides and burgers are just as > Tue-Sun 6-10.30pm. 4 Fangzhuanchang Hutong, Nali Patio is true Gallic gastronomy, albeit good. Beer and bourbons are taken care Dongcheng District 东城区方砖厂胡同4号 (8402 with a hint of Asian fusion. Nice terrace bar of, too. 5098) on the roof. > Daily 11am-10pm. 35 Xiaoyun Lu courtyard > Mon-Thu 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-9:30pm; Fri/ (20m north of Xiaoyun Lu intersection, first right), Opera Bombana ¥ Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm; 1F, Nali Patio, 81 Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路35号院过霄云路 Head chef Umberto Bombana boasts three Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那路口,往北走20米,到第一个路口右转(5128 5584) Michelin stars to his name, earned at his 里花园一层 (5288 7665) Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie wildly successful Hong Kong restaurant Otto e Mezzo. He’s the only Italian chef German NOLA to do so outside of his native land, and N’Orleans finds a dark-wood home in the certainly the only one in Beijing. Drei Kronen 1308 * leafy embassy area, with a jazz soundtrack, > Daily, 12pm-10:30pm; LG2-21 Parkview Green Authentic (in as much as any brauhaus shrimp and grits, gumbo, fried chicken, Fangcaodi, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大 with a Filipino cover band can be) displays jambalaya and decent-enough po’boys – 桥路9号侨福芳草地地下2层21号 (5690 7177) of armour and brewing kits draw regular yes’m. Excellent Cajun snacks, craft beers evening crowds for the superb pork and cocktail also make NOLA a popular Pizza knuckle (RMB148) and heavy-duty helles watering hole. Great service comes as Expensive steaks are now invading Beijing. Flamme (pronounced ‘Flame,’ apparently) (pale lager), wheat and dark beer (brewed standard. La Pizza on-site, RMB48-108). > Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-11pm. 11A remains top value, however, especially on 2-4-1 Tuesdays, while bar staff maintain an > Daily 11am-2am. 1/F, Bldg 5, China View, Gongti Xiushui Nanjie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区秀水南街11 Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体东路中国红街5 号 (8563 6215) eclectic (and genuinely exciting) cocktail 号楼1层(6503 5555) menu. Tim’s Texas BBQ > Daily 11am-10.30pm Sun-Thur; 11am-11pm Fri- Niajo ¥ * Who is Tim, you ask, and what’s his Texas Sat. S4-33, Third Floor, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, 19 BBQ doing in Beijing? Providing all ya’ll Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯 homesick ‘Murricans with the best damn Taikooli南区3层S4-33室 (6417 8608) > 269 Indigo home-style briskets, ribs and steaks – Mall, Jixianqiao Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路18 号颐堤港商场269号 (8420 0270) slow-cooked over a mesquite wood BBQ – this side of the Rio Grande. Tex Mex and Mexican/Tex Mex Margherita’s recommended, partner. > Daily 9am-midnight, Silk#2 building, 14 Cantina Agave (Tex-Mex) Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路14 Great selection of burritos, tacos and 80+ 号秀水2号院 (6591 9161) imported tequilas. Spice up dishes with the Union Bar and Grill walk-up salsa bar and don’t leave without a The definitive US-style diner in Beijing, bite of the custardy flan. Union’s extensive menu – from eggs >Sun-Thurs 11am to midnight. Fri–Sat 11am to 2am, S4-32 South Block, Sanlitun Taikoo Li, 19 Sanlitun Benedict to baby back ribs – covers all At the higher echelon of Beijing pizzeria is Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯Taikooli南 this Sanlitun goldfish bowl with a bases and hours, served by friendly staff. 区(6416 5212) The warm atmosphere tempts many to wood-fired oven and Neapolitan manners. Further branch in Solana and buffet stay all day. El Gran Bocado (Mexican) restaurant in Sanlitun 3.3 > Mon-Fri 11am-11pm,Sat-Sun 11am-midnight. S6- This unassuming little taquiera has a color- 31, 3/F, Bldg 6, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun > Sanlitun Branch: daily 10.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. Order the paella (their star dish) together ful menu of classic Mexican and Tex Mex 1/F, 3.3 Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝 with some tapas and be automatically Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯Village南区 dishes, and one of the best nacho plates 6号楼3层S6-31 (6415 9117) 阳区三里屯路33号3.3服装大厦西北角底商(5136 transported to Spain. With homely we’ve had in Beijing. 5582) > Solana Branch: SA-48, 1/F, Bldg 3, Solana, 6 Mediterranean influences and a charming The Woods * > Daily 11am-midnight, 1/F, Just Make Bldg, Chaoyang Park Road 朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色港湾3号 management, Niajo is a prefect option to Xingfucun Zhonglu 幸福村中路杰作大厦1层 (6416 1层, SA-48 ( 5905 6106) La Pizza Buffet: 4F, Sanlitun enjoy a pleasant meal at the heart of New York native-owned, Manhattan-style 1715) restaurant, tucked in amongst the skyscrap- 3.3 Mall, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯3.3服装大 Sanlitun. Pro tip: a fantastic set-lunch deal 厦4层 (5136 5990) > SOHU Shangdu Branch: SH1112, is also offered. ers of CBD: you can’t get more Big Apple Palms L.A. Kitchen and Bar (Korean- SOHO Shangdu, 8 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District > Daily 12.00am - 10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 than that. Mexican fusion) 朝阳区东大桥路8号SOHO尚都SH1112号(5900 3112) > Daily 12pm-10pm, Central Park Tower 1, Suite 101, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号 Tucked away near Gulou, this hip little 那里花园3层 (5208 6052)French No. 6 Chaowai Dajie, 朝外大街6号新城国际1号搂 Tube Station 101 (6533 6380) hutong concept is truly one of a kind in Beijing. Quesadillas with kimchi and bibim- Nowhere does gigantic toppen-laden pizza Paulaner Brauhaus baps with melted cheese and hot sauce. quite like Beijing, and these guys claim to

www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 73 listings

The grand old man of Beijing brauhauses, everything on the menu is authenticI Greyhound Café (Modern Thai/Fusion) This upscale seafood restaurant proves that Paulaner delivers the Teutonic goods in the Indian, espcially the rather fine naan. Greyhound Café originated in Bangkok of- chargrill and composure can go together. hands of lederhosen-clad staff from the > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-11pm, 31 Gulou Xidajie fering Thai food with a twist and served in Their RMB58 bibimbap lunch is an absolute provinces. It can be pricey but is usually Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼西大街31号 (6401- a fashionable surrounds. Perfect for Tai Koo bargain. worthwhile, especially during Oktoberfest. 1675) Li Sanlitun then. > Daily 11am-10pm, Sat and Sun until 9.30pm. 5/F, > Daily 11am-1am. Kempinski Hotel, 50 Liangmaqiao > Daily 11am-11pm, S1-30B, Building 1, Sanlitun LG Twin Towers (East Tower), 12 Jianguomenwai Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路50号凯宾斯基 Indian Kitchen Road 19, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号1号 Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街乙12号饭店 (6465 3388 ext. 5732) 楼 S1-30B (64163439, http:>www.greyhoundcafe. 双子座大厦东塔5层 (51096036/6037, for other loca- com.hk, (6416 3439) tions visit http:>www.aijiangshan.com) African/Middle Eastern Purple Haze (Thai) Saveurs de Coree 1001 Nights (Middle Eastern) Given Beijing’s lack of white sand beaches This upmarket Korean bistro has undergone There’s no missing this beast of a Middle and backpacker bars, Purple Haze has to several changes in recent years, not least Eastern on the way into Sanlitun. The make do for the best Thai experience in its move away from the hipper-than-thou whole Arabic dining package is on offer town. Has all the classics like veggie spring confines of Nanluguxiang. Fortunately, here, from Kebabs, to shisha to belly danc- rolls (RMB40), papaya salad (RMB46) and the menu remains largely intact. The Shin ing shows between courses. curries (RMB44-180) – but our pick’s the Ramyun is among the best in Beijing, while > Daily 11am-2am, 3-4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳 seafood pad Thai (RMB45). the Wagyu barbecued beef is almost too 区工体北路3-4号 (6532 4050) > Daily 11am-11pm, 55 Xingfu Yicun, Chaoyang good to be true. District 朝阳区幸福一村55号 (6413 0899) > Daily noon-11pm. 128-1 Xiang’er Hutong, Biteapitta (Middle Eastern) * Dongcheng District 东城区香饵胡同128-1号(5741 Enjoyed by vegetarians (hummus, falafel) Susu (Vietnamese) 5753) and RMB58 kebab-lovers alike, Biteapitta The first step is finding it. Follow that up has the Middle-East mid-range market all with a dreamlike renovated courtyard, ex- Vegetarian wrapped up in a fluffy pitta. tensive wine list and a listing of top-notch > Daily 11am-11pm, Second Floor, Tongli Studio, Vietnamese curries, banh mi sandwiches, Tianchu Maoxiang (Asian) Like many Beijing residents, this place start- Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang District The go to curry house among Beijing’s stews, soups and la Vong fish. ed out in Wudaokou and it’s since made 朝阳区三里屯后街同里2层 (6467 2961) homesick Indian community, this ever > Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 Qianliang Hutong a successful migration to Chaoyang. Great popular no-nonsense restaurant has built Xixiang, Dongcheng District 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10 号 (8400 2699) range of veggie fare, reasonably priced and Mosaic Restaurant & Bar (Middle up a solid reputation thanks to its wide they offer cooking classes as well. Eastern) range of quality dishes and particularly Japanese > Daily 10am-10pm 19 Rm 0260, 2/F, Bldg D, friendly service. Looking good after a Chaowai SOHO, 6B Chaoyangmenwai Dajie 朝阳 recent rennovation and available on Hatsune ¥ (California Japanese) 门外大街乙6, 朝外SOHO, D座2层0260 (5900 1288) JinShiSong online delivery. Less a Japanese than a California roll joint, Additional location in Wudaokou (see www.online. > Daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm, 2/F 2 Sanlitun Hatsune is now an old favorite among the thatsmags.com for details) Beixiaojie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北小街2号 2楼 (6462 7255) sake-swilling, sushi-swallowing set, though less so among sashimi purists. Veggie Table (Western, Asian) * > Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm 2/F, Heqiao Bldg Proving that Beijing-style vegetarian cuisine Ganges is by no means the exclusive preserve of Conveniently located above popular C, 8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路甲8号和乔大厦C座2层 (6581 3939) >Additional loca- Buddhist monks and soppy Jack Johnson Irish sports bar Paddy O’Sheas, this solid tions in Sanlitun Tai Koo Li South; Kerry Centre Mall fans, this superbly honed eatery offers Indian curry house provides the perfect (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details) some of the very best sandwiches – veg- post-match culinary accompaniment. Or etarian or otherwise – found anywhere in put another way: it’s what you’ll be craving Hyoki ¥ (Japanese) the city. after eight pints of beer. > Daily 10.30am to 11.30pm (last order 10.30pm) 19 > Daily 11am to 10.30pm. 2nd Floor, 28 Dongzhimen Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区五道 Wai Dajie, Chaoyang District 营胡同19号. (6446 2073) Dongzhimen Branch: 朝阳区东直门外大街28号2层 (6417-0900) Sanlitun Branch: 朝阳区工体北路13号世 Promising “the best shawarmas and 贸百货1号楼2楼202室 (64160181) bars shishas in town”, Mosaic restaurant & bar See www.ganges-restaurant.com/en/ for more offers a range of great value delicacies and locations. TOP 40 BARS AND CLUBS cocktails, served up in a cozy setting with About This guide represents our a friendly and personalized service. One of South-East Asian the few places in Beijing to offer genuine editors’ top 40 picks, and includes some Arabic shishas (hookah), Mosaic is the Nyonya Kitchen (Malaysian, Nyonya) That’s Beijing advertisers. Bars rated(*) hidden secret of Sanlitun! Be sure to ask for have been personally reviewed by our the boss’s Arabian fusion creations that are experts, and scored according to the sure to rock your taste buds. cuisine, experience and affordability. > Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St (Behind/North of Yashow Silk Market), Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32 号楼临街店 (137 1883 7065) 8-Bit Hidden away in the depths of the Sofitel Drinking alongside multiplayer retro gam- Rumi (Middle Eastern) Hotel, this labyrinthine Japanese restaurant ing – why didn’t anyone do this sooner? Worlds away from the filth of nearby dirty of all private dining rooms has some Megadrive, Super Nintendo, N64... some Bar Street, Rumi dishes out plentiful help- stunning food, and is the only place to real gems make up an ever-growing col- ings of traditional Persian stews and tasty sample traditional Japanese paper hot pot lection. Draft Kirin goes for a reasonable kebabs. Try the juicy Chicken Shish kebab, in Beijing. RMB25 a glass. the tastier cousin to cheap chuan’r. > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing 100022 93 Jianguo Road, > Daily, 1pm-2am, 49 Jiaodaokou Nandajie, > Daily 11.30am-12am, Gongti Beilu and Third Ring Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国路93号索菲特万达北京 Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街49号 (159 Road 工体北路和三环内,兆龙饭店对面 (8454 3838) 酒店6层 (6581 0072) 1025 6538))

Pinotage ¥ (South African) * Inagiku * Apothecary ¥ * A seasonal blend of Dutch, English This Beijing branch of one of Tokyo’s old- Golf ball-sized ice cubes, infusions, fussy and regional African influences, this This chain specializes in Nyonya style est and most celebrated restaurants is as bar-tending and (allegedly) snooty staff contemporary and stylish eatery has an cooking – ostensibly Malaysian but with a near to perfection as you’re likely to find. have made the Japanese-style Apothecary impressive selection of fine import-quality mix of Chinese, South-East Asian and Deceptively simple yet finely crafted, the bar a divisive choice to visit. See for your- meats, and wines to match. The traditional European influences resulting in lots of handmade Inaniwa udon (RMB 80) is not self: they also serve quality Cajun food. borewor ground beer-sausage (RMB100) is bold flavors and bright colors. to be missed. > Tue-Sun 6pm-late (kitchen closes 1am). 3/F, Nali tender and sweet, while the red-wine pork > CBD: EB105, B1/F, China World Mall Phase > Daily 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm. Rm 315, 3/F, Park Life, Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯 tenderloin (RMB120) makes the trip out to 1, 1 Jianguomen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门 Yintai Centre, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 路81号那里花园3层 (5208 6040) Shunyi worth it. 外大街1号国贸商城一期地下一层EB105 (6505 District 朝阳区建国门外大街2号银泰中心悦生活3层 > Dongmen Building, 12 Dongzhimen Wai, 0376); Taiyanggong: Unit 10-11, 4/F, CapitaMall 315室 (8517 2838) The Bar * Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门外大街12号东门下楼 (5785 Taiyanggong, Chaoyang 朝阳区凯德Mall太阳宫4层 This relative newcomer (sometimes known 3538) > Additional location in Shunyi (see online 10/11号 (8415 0863) www.nyonyakitchen.com Sushi Yotsuba ** as Third Floor) has years of savvy behind for details) It doesn’t come cheap (tasting menu it, meaning you can absolutely trust the Malacca Legend RMB1,000), but what would you expect Asian cocktail menu. Manager Jack Zhou and his Malaysian food with a view, this spacious from some of the best sushi in town? brother offer sterling service, while the and airy restaurant sits on the banks of Shu- Buttery and meaty fatty tuna sashimi is a Indian décor is handsome and low-key. nyi’s Roma Lake, making a great spot for cut above. > Daily 4pm-late. 3/F Friendship Youth Hostel, (100m some beef rendang or green curry prawns. > Dongcheng branch: Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 west of Sanlitun Houjie), Chaoyang District 朝阳区北 Raj Qianliang Hutong Xixiang, Dongcheng District 东城 > Daily 11am-10pm; 6 Luodong Road, Luogezhuang 三里屯友谊青年酒店三层(3.3大厦西侧) (6415 9954) Village, Houshayu Town, Shunyi 顺义区后沙峪镇罗区钱粮胡同西巷10号 (8400 2699) 各庄村罗各东路6号 (8049 8902, www.malaccaleg- Lido branch: 2F, No.9-3, Jiangtai Xilu, Chaoyang The Brick end.com) District 朝阳区将台西路9-3号2层 (8420 0998) A Cheers-style atmosphere ensures you’ll find this neighbourhood drinking hole-in- Cafe Sambal (Malaysian) Sake Manzo * the brick-wall faux dive bar either cliquey When it comes to Malay-style food in a The barmen here are serious about their or inclusive. The heavy-duty cocktails hutong, nowhere does it better. Admittedly, sake. Boasting one of the best stocked (including the devastatingly boozy RMB80 it’s something of a niche category, but then drinks cabinets in town with over 60 dif- Terminator) are probably needed for the so is the food on offer. The spicy Kapitan- ferent sakes on offer, this super-cool little bizarre Wednesday pub quiz. style chicken is pricey, but worth it. eatery is the perfect place to unwind after > Daily 4pm-late. Unit 2-11, Bldg 2, Tianzhi Jiaozi, 31 > Daily 11am-midnight. 43 Doufuchi Hutong (just a hard day’s toil. The sashimi is fresh to the Guangqu Lu (northeast corner of Shuangjing Qiao), east of Jiugulou Dajie), Xicheng District西城区豆腐池 cut, and the beer-marinated chicken is out Chaoyang District 朝阳区双井桥东北角广渠路31号院胡同43号旧鼓楼大街往东走(6400 4875) of this world. One of the very best and least 天之骄子2号楼底商2-11 (134 2616 6677) 4Corners (Vietnamese, Fusion) appreciated restaurants in town. > Daily 6pm-midnight. 7A Tuanjiehu Beisantiao, Chef Jun Trinh took a break from his celeb- CICADA Ultralounge ¥ Chaoyang District 朝阳区团结湖北三条甲7号(6436 The latest – and perhaps only – ultralounge rity TV work to host this part-Vietnamese 1608) venue, serving up steaming bowls of pho in Beijing is fast becoming one of Sanlitun’s trendiest bars. A Shanghai style lounge Tucked away in musty old building just with zesty, fresh rolls, as well as a great bar. Korean > Tue-Sun 11am-2am, 27 Dashibei Hutong (near bar with mixology credentials, the Whisky underneath the drum tower, this Sours and Smoky Havana’s are worth the curryhouse may look Chinese but west end of Yandai Xiejie), Xicheng 西城区大石碑胡 Ai Jiang Shan 同27号烟袋斜街西口附近) (6401 7797) cost.

74 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com listings

> Mon-Sat, 6pm-late, 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang Lounge rewards the intrepid with good art- www.maomaochongbeijing.com) Atmosphere ¥¥ District 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯太古里北区N4-33 work and comfortable seating, suggesting Beijing’s highest bar, on the 80th floor of (6418 9898) a Kasbah, plus well-made drinks at great Mesh ¥ the 1,082-ft China World Tower, offers 300+ prices (wine from RMB100 a bottle, mix Whether it’s an early evening cocktail or a swanky cocktails from RMB65 with 360-de- d.Lounge ¥ * drinks from RMB25). You’ll probably have late-night infusion, Mesh’s moody interior gree views of the 700AQI PM2.5. The fancy spelling tells you all you need to to call them to find it, though. and underground soundtrack draws the > Mon-Fri noon-2am, Sat and Sun noon-4am. 80/F, know about this chic cocktail lounge in a > Daily 6pm-1am. Room 101, Bldg 8, CBD Apartments, bright young things (and on LGBT Thurs- China World Summit Wing, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, stunning archway location. Great on school Shuanghuayuan Nanli Erqu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 days, quite a few old things, too). Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号北京国贸大 nights, this place can become horribly busy 双花园南里二区CBD公寓8号楼101屋 (8772 1613) > Daily 5pm-1am. Building 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, 酒店80 (6505 2299 ext. 6433) at weekend. Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼 (6417 > Daily 8pm-late. Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu (opposite Ichikura ¥ 6688) Centro ¥ the Rock and Roll Club), Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体 One of the best-known ‘secrets’ in town, Although it’s no longer quite the go-to 北路4号 (6593 7710) this Japanese whisky bar tucked behind Modernista Old Cafe and Tapas Bar ¥ * place for beautiful people it once was, Cen- a theater also offers terrific cocktails. The hipsters love this little brasserie- tro still draws a cute crowd with its nightly El Nido * Although less expensive than several rivals, themed absinthe bar. Regular live shows jazz performaces, spacious and recently The first hutong hang-out to patent the you’ll want to indulge. mean it can often get pretty crowded. That renovated lounge areas and classic drinks fridge-full-of-cheap-imports formula, El > Daily 7pm-2am. 2/F Chaoyang Theater, 36 should piss off the hipsters, yet still they like the blue-cheese martini. Nido inspires a loyal following, particularly Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环 keep coming. > Open 24 hours. 1/F, Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, in summer. The roast leg of mutton place 北路36号朝阳剧场南侧 (6507 1107) > Tuesday to Sunday 12pm-2am. 44 Baochao Hutong, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路1号北京嘉里大饭店 next door is one of the best locally. Dong Cheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同44号 1层 (6561 8833) > Daily 6pm-late, 59 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng The Irish Volunteer (136 9142 5744) District 东城区方家胡同50号(158 1038 2089) Everything – from the red-faced owner to China Bar ¥¥ the grub – is authentically Irish: tinged with Parlor Top views from the 65th floor and flash Enoterra alcoholism, doggerel and drunken regret. Learn a few quotes from Gatsby before drinks are the attractions on offer at this Looking for an affordable glass of wine A good place to down a pint and a pizza heading to this 20s Shanghai-style speak- hip hotel bar. with that date? Look no further than Nali before heading into town, then. easy and you’ll fit right in. > Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. 65/F, Park Hyatt, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝 Patio’s wine center. Although the food > Daily 9pm-2am. 311 Jiangtai Lu (opposite Lido > Daily 6pm-2am, 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区阳区建国门外大街2号柏悦酒店65层 (8567 1838/40) Hotel East Gate), Chaoyang District 朝阳区将台路311 leaves a bit to be desired, the selections are 新东路幸福二村39-8 (8444 4135) vast, and if anything, you can enjoy a nice 号 (6438 5581) Q Bar ¥ Xian ¥ cheese plate with that tart glass of vino. This enlongated bar space makes a nice > Daily 10am-2am, 4/F Sanlutun Nali Patio, 81 The James Joyce * Atop one of the city’s most average-looking spot for refreshment after a day spent Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那 With its roaring fire and portraits of Joyce, hotels is one of its classiest (and certainly shopping at neighboring Indigo. 里花园D405室 (5208 6076) the ‘JJ’ is a homing beacon to anyone crav- oldest) institutions. Be prepared to wait for your drinks, though. The rooftop terrace > Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am, 1/F, EAST ing an authentic Irish pub atmosphere (i.e. Beijing, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥22 First Floor without tacky Guinness-related gimmicks). is one of the main lures, so in winter, you 号北京东隅酒店一层 (8414 9810, www.xian-bar.com) First Floor is like that friend who’s too > Daily 11am-2am14 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang may want to look elsewhere. popular to properly enjoy their company. District 朝阳区新东路14号 (6415 9125) > Daily 5pm-2am. Top floor of Eastern Inn Hotel, 6 Sports Bars At weekends, it gets aggressively full, with Baijiazhuang Lu (on the corner of Sanlitun Nanlu), regulars and the passing tourist trade all Jane’s & Hooch ¥ * Chaoyang District 朝阳区白家庄6号朝阳门医院北门东 Cuju * 100米三里屯南路逸羽连锁酒店顶楼 (6595 9239, www. baying at the bar. A good place to meet Acclaimed by some foreign press as one This tiny sports bar is frequently packed new friends, perhaps. of the best bars in the world (cough), this qbarbeijing.com) with NFL fans but don’t expect rowdy jocks. > Daily, 4pm-late, Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang not-so-plain Jane has been at the vanguard Great Moroccan food and a connoisseur’s Revolution * District 朝阳区三里屯北小街 (6413 0587, first.floor- of the South Sanlitun gentrification. It selection of rums and beers lure a more Sanlitun doesnt really do hipster bars but beijing.com) serves RMB60-80 measures of your favorite sophisticated set. It’s popular with the if it did, this cramped ode to Maomorabilia Prohibiotion-era hooches in a fanstastic owner’s friends but all are welcome. would be it. The East may be red but their Fubar speakeasy atmosphere, with attentive > 28 Xiguan Hutong, off Dongsibeidajie staff and unimpeachable cocktails. The cocktails (RMB45) are fit for a Chairman. Slightly past its prime, this basement bar is 细管胡同28号东四北大街 (6407 9782) drawbacks? Weekends can be horriblky > Daily, 12pm-late, west of Yashow, Gongti Bei Lu, 朝 trying to rediscover the speakeasy pretence 阳区工体北路雅秀市场西侧 (6415 8776) that made the place its name. Live lounge busy – and there is a frankly absurd list of The Den music and a vast amount of pours are start- house rules marring the menu. At the opposite end of the 24-hour drink- > Daily 8pm-2am, Courtyard 4 Gongti Beilu, 工体北路 Salud 老伍 * ing to persuade people it’s succeeding. ing spectrum from Centro, The Den is a 4号院 ( 6503 2757) A Nanluoguxiang institution, with every- > 6pm-2am Sunday to Thursday, 6pm-4am Friday thing from cheap beer to (loud) live music seedy sports joint that starts off sedate and and Saturday. 8 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District, grows steadily sadder as night turns to day. LIV Club and low beams. The rum infusions are a Workers’ Stadium East Gate 朝阳区工体北路8号工人 It can get rough and ready come dawn. Another cavernous, kitsch and costly club – particular favorite on cold nights. Latest 体育场东门内 (6593 8227) Solid (cheap) menu, good location and exactly what Gongti needs, where bars are branch in WDK a welcome addition to sur- those opening times earn it a place. Glen ¥ already crammed next each other like shiny rouding student dives. > NLGX: Mon-Fri 3pm-late, Sat-Sun noon-late. 66 > Open 24 hours. 4 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang Experiences can vary at Glen (we’ve stilettos on Imelda Marcos’s shelves. But District 朝阳区工体东路4号城市宾馆正门旁边 who cares, right? Spend it, flaunt it – buy Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District 东城区南锣鼓巷 endured poor service and drinks that are 66号 (6402 5086) scandalous at the price), which is located in another pair. The Local * a decidedly downbeat compound. But whis- > Mon-Sun 9pm - 5am. 6 Gonti Xi Lu, Chaoyang > Wudaokou: 2/F, Qijixin Building, Zhanchunyuan Formerly Brussels, this beery bar has come ky lovers have been known to swear by its District 朝阳区工体西路6号 (6708 9898) Xilu 展春园西路奇蓟鑫大厦南侧2层 into its own, with large (yet strangely selections and dark, intimate atmosphere. unobtrusive) screenings of sports and Lucky Man ¥ * See for yourself. Slow Boat Brewery Taproom ** political events, a pub quiz, quality fare and The cognoscenti rate this quiet Gulou > 6.30pm-2am. 203, 2/F, Taiyue Suites Hotel Beijing, This popular microbrewery has its own a nice selection of draughts and cocktails. whisky bar as one of the smartest to satisfy 16 Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南三里屯 pub hidden away in Dongcheng’s hutongs. Try the Bourbon Street Ice Tea – you won’t your lust for the other ‘amber nectar.’ 路16号泰悦豪庭2楼203室 (6591 1191) Quality ales that change depending on need another. > Daily 7pm-1.30am. 157 Gulou Dongdajie, the season, heated floors and a great little > Daily 11-2am. 4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街157 (6405 Glen Classic ¥ kitchen round out the deal. 体北路4号院 (6591 9525) Tucked away in the grounds of Face hotel, 4167) > Mon Closed, Tues-Wed: 5pm-midnight, Thu 5pm- Glen Classic is a Japanese-owned whisky 1am, Fri 5pm-late, Sat 2pm-late, Sun 2-10pm; 56 Paddy O’Shea’s bar where discerning drinkers can sink Luga’s Dongsi Batiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四八条56号 Owner Karl Long has airlifted an entire into an arm-chair, glass in hand, and while The closest Beijing has to a municipal (6538 5537) Irish theme pub, including residents, from away the hours. Huge range of whiskies drinking hall, the four-storey Luga’s has a council estate in Limerick and gently and rums are personally selected by expert it all: terrible Tex-Mex, decent Italian, a The Tree deposited it in central Beijing. With plenty owner Daiki Kanetaka – let him recommend busy pool table, loud music, smoke, 400 A cozy stalwart of the Beijing bar scene, going on, including pub quiz and sports, you something special. flatscreen TVs all showing different sports… you’ll find wood-fired comfort pizza, beer no one seems to have noticed. > Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am, reservation required, yet still we like it (sort of). Basement bar aplenty and a hearty, mature atmosphere. > Dongzhimen: Daily 10am-late, 28 Dongzhimenwai minimum spend RMB200, Face Hotel Courtyard, 26 Taps provides a German-themed refuge, Has two neighborhood offshoots: By the Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东直门外大街28号 Dongcaoyuan, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路东草 with serve-your-own draught Paulaner and Tree (brickwork, pool, old man’s pub) and (6592 6290) 园26号 (6551 6788) quality food. Nearby the Tree (live music, two floors). > Daily 11am-2am. 2/F, 7 Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang > Daily noon-2am. 100m west of Sanlitun Bar Street, > Sanlitun: 2/F, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Back Street 三里屯北路43号同里二层 (6415 0299) Great Leap Brewery 大跃啤酒 ¥ * District 朝阳区三里屯后街7号 (6416 2575) Youyi Youth Hostel, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯酒吧街往西100米友谊旅馆后面三里屯医院东面 The bar that began the whole Beijing mi- V Sports crobrewing frenzy (yes, frenzy) specializes MIX (6415 1954) A bit like a trip to the Forbidden City, Mix Spacious, comfortable, huge screens and in idiosyncratic, local-style brews (RMB25- no rowdy drunken cretins, V Sports makes 40) with intriguing flavors – their Sichuan is one of those places in Beijing you have Twilight ¥ * to experience before you leave. Not much A downtown version of Sanlitun mainstay a claim for the champion of Beijing sports peppercorn ale was memorably good. bars. Reservations used to be recommended is forbidden in this underground hip-hop Apothecary, complete with mood jazz and disco palace and if you don’t leave with those premium cocktails, this Japanese > Daily 5:30pm-6am, Gongti North Gate East side, for their original hutong brewhouse, but Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北门内东侧 (5293 0333) the opening of a wildly popular new pub hook-up in tow then you’re doing some- whisky bar makes you feel as far away from on Xinzhong Lu has shifted most drinkers thing very wrong. the busy boulevards whizzing below as Nightclubs there instead. > Daily 8pm-6am, Inside Worker’s Stadium North you’d want. Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 > Gulou: 5pm-late, Tue-Fri, 2pm-late Sat-Sun 2-10pm, > Daily 6pm-2am. 3/F, villa 5 east Jianwai SOHO, The Bar at Migas ¥ 6506 9888, 6530 2889, 150 1138 2219, mixclub@ Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东 6 DouJiao Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区豆角 A place to dance and prowl, perhaps, rather sohu.com 三环中路39号建外SOHO东区5号别墅3层 (5900 5376) 胡同6号 (5717 1399) >Sanlitun: Daily 11:30am-2pm; than a drinks destination, TBAM, as no one Sun-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri /Sat 5pm-1am, B12 Mai Bar * XIU ¥¥ calls it, focuses on upscale local DJs to get Xinzhong Street 新中街乙12号 ( 6416-6887, www. the party started. Good-enough cocktails greatleapbrewing.com) Understated hutong hideaway with a long While Thursday’s Ladies Nights attracts list of some of the best cocktails in town. the sort we’d sooner avoid, XIU is beloved range from RM55-70 but mostly it’s about the music, man. Heaven Supermarket > Daily 5pm-late, 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城 among aspirational white-collar Chinese, A purgatory of bottles, bongs and bedrag- 区北锣鼓巷40号 (6406 1871) wooed by its sprawling chic-ness and > Sunday to Wednesday 6pm-2am, Thursday to gled English teachers, Heaven sells the playboy clientele. A lively house band keeps Friday 6pm-late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号 (5208-6061) cheapest alcoholic takeaways in town. You Mao Mao Chong ** you indoors, but a superb terrace backons can also hang around and appreciate the The cocktails at Mao’s – such as their you otherwise: a fantastic midweek drink- Dada * afterlife (clientele) if you want. Caveat: the sublime ‘Mala’ Mule, a Sichuan peppercorn- ing venue in the summer. It hasn’t been on the Beijing scene for food is straight from Hell’s own kitchen. infused vodka drink that’s a long way from > Daily 6pm-2am. 3/F, villa 5 east Jianwai SOHO, too long, but already Dada is the hippest 朝阳区东三 > Daily 12pm-4am. 12 Xindong Lu (next to The Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District Moscow – are unique infusions using 环中路39号建外SOHO东区5号别墅3层 (5900 5376) hangout in town. Their cosy Gulou confines James Joyce), Chaoyang District 朝阳区新东路16号 local ingredients and know-how. Grungey under rock house Temple offer an intimate (6415 6513) without being grimey, Mao’s eschews flash place to nod along to an eclectic range of while still keeping it real. And those pizzas. all things electro from the best names on Hidden Lounge * > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng Hotel Bars the underground scene. Although frustrating to find, Hidden District 东城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718, > Daily, 9pm-late, Rm 101, Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong

www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 75 listings

Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B 朝阳区新源南路1号威斯汀酒店五层 ( 139 1029 0260, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路乙118号国贸桥东南北街南43号楼 (135 0137 2971) 栋101室 (183 1108 0818) www.alonapilates.com) 角京汇大厦201室 (6567 5670); 2) Rm 208, Tower A, CITIC Building, 19 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang Tony & Guy Lantern * Broadwell International Tennis Academy District朝阳区建国门外大街19号国际大厦A座208室 A favorite of many Beijing expats, the Founded by now-defunct Acupuncture Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis (6500 6473); 3) Rm 308, Tower A, Raycom Info Tech trendy British chain features interna- Records, Lantern is a beacon of light in the Center, this indoor club boasts a complete Park 2 Kexueyuan Nanlu, Haidian District海淀区中关 tional products, knowledgeable (generally strip of truly ghastly nightclubs and bars state-of-the-art air-supported structure for 村科学院南路2号融科资讯中心A座308室 (8286 1956); somewhat English-speaking) staff, and a known as ‘Gongti.’ Serious about its music, all-weather year-round indoor tennis, with 4) Rm 101, Bldg 16, China Central Place, 89 Jianguo never-ending stream of well-heeled hip it also makes good drinks and attracts an advanced lighting system and controlled Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路89号华贸中心公 clientele. Cuts run the gamut from basic to 寓16号楼101室 (8588 8550/60/70); 5) 1/F, Somerset haute coiffure, depending on which grade international electronica DJs. climate. Ideal for peeps looking to perfect Fortune Garden, 46 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang > Thurs-Sat 9pm-6.30am. 100m north of Worker’s their service and batting a few balls. of stylish you select. District朝阳区亮马桥路46号燕莎东侧盛捷福景苑1层 > Daily, 10am-9pm. LG 41, INDIGO, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Stadium West Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体 > Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区农南路 (8440 1926) 育场西门向北100米(139 119 77989) 1号朝阳公园网球中心(4006406800/ 65958885,www. Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港地铁层 41号 (8426 0688, for other branches see) broadwell.cn1) United Family Shunyi Dental Clinic School Bar The Beijing United Family Dental Clinic in Crap drinks and regular, unscheduled Lily Nails Shunyi is a satellite of the main hospital HEALTH SERVICES fights: no wonder the cool kids adore this A long-time favorite among locals and in Lido (which has its own dental clinic alternative livehouse/ DJ bar, founded by expats alike, Lily Nails is much more than a onsite). A comprehensive range of services Amcare Women’s & Children’s Hospital Beijing and Shanghai rock n’ rollers. nail spa; they have a variety of pampering are at hand, including restorative dentistry With a zero waiting-time policy, top-quality > Daily 8pm-late. 53 Wudaoying Hutong, Chaoyang treatments and waxing services too. and cosmetic dentistry. Call ahead for all inpatient facilities, home visits, night ser- District 朝阳区五道营胡同53号 (6402 8881, 6406 > Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) 2 Ginza Mall, 48 vices and transportation assistance, Amcare 9947) Dongzhimenwai Dajie (southeast of Dongzhimen appointments. > 818 Pinnacle Plaza, Tianzhu Real Estate provides a trustworthy experience. English- Bridge), Dongcheng District东城区东直门外大街48号 Development Zone, Shunyi District北京和睦家医院牙 Vics 东方银座2楼(东直门桥东南侧) (8447 7178); 2) Shop speaking services include pediatrics, 科诊所, 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场818 (8046 1102) Separated at birth from its identical twin 2049, 2/F, 3.3 Shopping Center, 33 Sanlitun Beijie, gynecology and obstetrics. brother, Mix, this is the definition of Gongti Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯北街33号3.3大厦2层 > 9 Fangyuan XiLu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园西 SDM Dental 固瑞齿科路9号 (6434 2399, 24hr hotline 800 610 6200, www. sweatbox meat-market chic at its very 2049号 ( 5136 5829, 136 8148 3308) The full spectrum of dentistry. Services amcare.com.cn) finest. The Chinese love it – as do moody Yihe 42° Hot Yoga include teeth cleaning, root-canal treat- Russians and jailbait students, helping Vics ment, porcelain crowns, dental implants, Beijing International Medical Center to become one of the most infamous clubs orthodontics, cosmetic dentistry, fillings, (IMC) in the capital. pediatric dentistry, extraction, teeth-whit- Established in 1993, the International Medi- > Daily 8:30pm late, Inside Worker’s Stadium North cal Center-Beijing counts on an expert team Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 (5293 ening and veneers. Credit cards accepted. > www.sdmdental.com**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. CBD/ 0333) of foreign doctors, offering a wide range of Guomao>2/F,NB210, China World Shopping Mall, medical services, including family medicine, 建外大街号国贸商城地下愚公移山 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie 1 2 psychological services, dental, ob/gyn, Yugong Yishan 层 Tel:6505-9439/31/93**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm.Olympic We’ve lost more body weight than we’d pediatrics and TCM. Drop-in services for Area>F-0186B Sunshine Plaza, 68 Anli Lu(east of travelers; x-rays and ultrasounds are also care to remember in YY’s mosh pit. Fortu- Sunshine Plaza)亚运村安立路68号阳光广场东侧 . nately, almost all the acts – usually hip-hop available. English, Farsi, Japanese, Chinese, Tel: 6497-2173,6498-2173**Mon-Sun 10am-19pm. Arabic and Russian spoken. DJs, emo rocks and obscure indie outfits Shunyi>LB07-08, No.99 Euro Plaza, YuXiang Road.北 > 24hours. Room S106/111 Lufthansa Center, 50 from across the globe – were worth it. The 京顺义区天竺镇裕翔路99号欧陆广场LB07-08号.Tel: Liangmahe Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区亮马桥路 upstairs bar area is a refuge from the sweat 8046-6084**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. Sanyuanqiao>FC222, 50号燕莎中心写字楼1层S106 (6465 1561/2/3, 6465 21st Century Hotel, 40 Liang Maqiao Lu亮马桥40号 glands below. 1384/28, www.imclinics.com) > Daily 7pm-late. 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu (100m west 21世纪饭店2层 Tel: 6466-4814, 6461-2745**Mon- Fri 9am-8pm.Haidian>4076B, 4/F, New Yansha of Zhangzizhong Lu subway station), Dongcheng Beijing HarMoniCare Women and Chil- District 东城区张自忠路3-2号(6404 2711) Mall, Yuanda Lu远大路金源燕莎购物中心Mall4层 4076B Tel:8859-6912/13**Mon-Sun, 10am-7pm dren’s Hospital 北京和美妇儿医院 3 locations in Beijing: the best Yoga for Guomao>Rm 5, 3/F, North Tower, China Overseas Bookstores Beginners! No previous experience Plaza, 8 Guanghua Dongli. 北京朝阳区光华东里8号中 necessary - and if your body is a bit stiff – 海广场北楼3层05号.Tel: 5977-2488 The Bookworm * that’s okay! Yihe knows it can be a little This glass cube looks over Sanlitun Village, intimidating to begin your journey into HAIR SALONS providing a cozy atmosphere for browsing Yoga, so they are available to answer any bibliophiles. The Western bookstore, li- questions you may have. It’s a great Catherine de France brary, film house, bar, bistro-cafe and event workout for the body and calming for the space always has a cultured evening on its mind. Call them today on (5905 6067, 8405 shelves for both adults and kids. 9996, 8599 7395) > Daily 9am-2am. Building 4, Nan Sanlitun Road, > Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) 3/F, No. 2 South Building, Blue Chaoyang District, Beijing 三里屯南街4号楼 (6586 Castle, Dawang Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区大望路 9507, www.beijingbookworm.com) 蓝堡国际中心南写字楼2座3层 (8599 7395/96, www. yh42.com); 2) 3/F, Bldg. 14, Solana, No. 6 Chaoyang Page One Gongyuan Xilu Chaoyang District朝阳区朝阳公园西 The go-to shop for new releases and special 路6号,蓝色港湾14号,三层 (5905 6067/77, www.yh42. requests. With sister venues in Hong Kong, com) ; 3) 3/FA Shimao Plaza 13 Gongti Beilu Chaoyang Taiwan and Singapore, and two locations in District朝阳工体北路新中西里13号巨石大厦3FA Beijing, its network allows for fresh authors Wi-Fi available. Chaoyang: 2 Xiaoguan Beili, Beiyuan whilst upholding an extensive collection Sport Lu北苑路小关北里甲2号. Tel: 6499-0000. contact@hm- of titles. care.org, en.hmcare.net > Daily 10am-9pm. Shop 3B 201, Zone 3 China World Heyrobics Mall, No.1 Jian Guo Men Wai Avenue, Chaoyang “Sweat like a Swede!” they say with Beijing United Family Hospital and Clin- District 朝阳区国贸商城三期地下二层3B201 (8535 annoyingly smug grin and toned abs. ics 北京和睦家医院 1055, www.pageonegroup.com) The only fitness craze worth following in Wi-fi internet. Lido, Emergency Room is open Page One Indigo. Shop LG50, INDIGO, 18 Jiuxianqiao Beijing, Heyrobics is all about a punish- 24/7/365, Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5pm.> 2 Jiangtai Road, Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商业 ing full-body workout set to pumping Awarded best expat salon in 2014, with a Chaoyang District, 朝阳区将台路2号. Tel: (10) 5927 中心B1楼50号(8426 0408, www.pageonegroup.com) beats – not forgetting the fluores- trained team of international and local 7000 / 5927 7120(Emergency Hotline). United cent spandex. Differing classes for all stylists, colorists and beauticians, this salon Family CBD Clinic和睦家朝外诊所, Mon-Sat, 9:30am- abilities, check online for the full schedule. welcomes all ages and budgets in a 6:30pm.> Suite 3017, Building AB, Vantone Center, 6 BEAUTY & FITNESS > www.heyrobics.com, [email protected] modern and relaxed atmosphere for a wide Chaowai Street, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区朝阳门外 range of hair and beauty treatments, 大街6号万通中心AB座2层3017室. Tel: (10) 5907 1266. California Fitness Beijing Club JM Cosmetic Plastic Surgery Clinic including manicures, pedicures & waxing. Jianguomen Health and Wellness Center和睦家建国 California Fitness Beijing’s Group X program 门保健中心 A top cosmetic & plastic surgery clinic with Wella, SP, INOA, TIGI. , Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sun 8:30am-5pm>21 Jianguomen Dajie, B1, The St. Regis Residence, St. over 18 years of experience in Beijing. is among the best in the region, and with EAST AVENUE BLD Ground Floor, No.10 Xindong Lu, Regis Hotel朝阳区建国门外大街21号北京国际俱乐部 They provide a full range of surgical and membership you have access to over 150 Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路10号逸盛阁首层饭店. Tel: (10) 8532 1221 / 8532 1678 (Immigration non-surgical cosmetic procedures. Their weekly Group X classes and a team of Salon: 0086 10 84425120, Mobile: 0086 13521473492 Clinic ). Shunyi Clinic和睦家顺义诊所Wi-fi internet, standard for service is focused on maintain- professional personal trainers in Asia. Your E-mail: [email protected] Mon-Fri, 9:30am-5:30pm, Sat and Sun, 9:30am- ing the best technologies in the field of membership also includes free towel usage Wechat: CDFSalon; Web: www.catherinedefrance.com and a fitness assessment. 4:30pm.> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 806, Tian Zhu Real cosmetic surgery and achieving beautiful Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District, 顺义区天 >South Tower, L4, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District Laurent Falcon results safely. 竺开发区荣祥广场806号,Tel: (10) 8046 5432. Shunyi 4008-100-988 www,californiafitness.com > Building C-D, Dawang Building, 12 Xi Dawang Lu, Dental Clinic顺义牙科诊所, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sat, Chaoyang 朝阳区西大望路12号大望写字楼C-D座 (400 9:30am-7:30pm> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 818, Tian Zhu 0989 809, 138 1088 7442, www.jingmeihui.cn) Cycle China Inc. 北京非常之旅 Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District顺义 Cycle China provides organized cycling and 区天竺开发区荣祥广场818号. Tel: (10) 8046 1102. Luxura Tanning Center hiking tours in and aroundBeijing as well Liangma Clinic亮马诊所 Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri, This tanning salon has some of the city’s as longer tours throughout China. Some 8:30am-5pm>2nd Floor Grand Summit, 19 Dongfang best state-of-the-art tanning beds, all of their more popular tours take cyclists East Road朝阳区东方东路19号1号楼会所27号外交人 imported from Europe. For the sexiest tan through the Olympic Green, Tian’anmen 员公寓B区官舍16号 . Tel: (10) 5927 7005 www.ufh. possible, get custom-made tanning tips Square, and Beijing’s traditional hutongs. com.cn, [email protected] from the well-trained staff. >12 Jingshan East Street, Dongcheng District 东城区 > Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) Rm 307, Bldg 4, Jianwai Soho 景山东街12号 (6402 5653 Mobile: 13911886524, re- Hongkong International Medical Clinic, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District朝阳 [email protected] or [email protected]) Beijing 北京港澳国际医务诊所区东三环中路建外SOHO西区4楼307室(5900 0427, Dongsishitiao: 9/F, Office Tower, Hongkong Macau www.luxura.net) 2) 5005, 5/F, 3.3 Sanlitun, Chaoyang Center-Swiss Hotel, 2 Chaoyangmen Bei Dajie朝阳门 District朝阳区三里屯3.3大厦5层5005号 (5136 5186, DENTAL 北大街2号港澳中心瑞士酒店办公楼9层; 6553-9752, www.luxura.net) 6553-2288/2345/6/7; [email protected]; www. Arrail Dental hkclinic.com Alona Pilates Studio Affiliated with the University of Pennsyl- vania, Arrail Dental has access to top-class Pairing up traditional Pilates with an in- The salon is a cut above, thanks to skills of International SOS equipment. Its well-trained staff, multiple novative, full-body workout, Alona Pilates experienced French stylist Laurent Falcon. Since 1989, International SOS has been run locations across town and excellent facili- offers classes designed to tone and whip Guys/girls. Blow-dry, up-dos, highlights, by globally trained medical professionals ties make it one of the best dental provid- you into shape fast. It also provides a coloring available. L’Oreal, Schwarzkopf, and provides medical, security and travel ers in Beijing. English-speaking staff. Dental personalized experience for all its students, KeraSraight, Inoa. RMB165-980 women, advice, as well as emergency help 24/7. Its services including examinations, whitening, regardless of fitness, strength and RMB115-468 men. alarm centers operate house calls, ambu- flexibility levels. root-canal treatment, orthodontics and 3L209 Phase 3, The China World Trade Center Shop- lance and evacuation services, and standard > Daily, 7.30, late. 5/F at Heavenly Spa by Westin, 1 implants. ping Mall. 国贸商城三期二层3L209 (59000676,153 health treatments. Languages spoken Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District > 1) Rm 201, the Exchange-Beijing, 118B Jianguo Lu, 1311 1519). 43 Sanlitun Beijie Nan,Chaoyang.三里屯 include English, German, French, Mandarin,

76 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com listings

Spanish, Japanese, Italian and Cantonese. program offers world class executive and Beijing Rego British School The Western Academy of Beijing (WAB) is > Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Building, No.16 leadership education from some of the best 北京瑞金英国学校 a creative and innovative IB World School Xinyuanli, Chaoyang District朝阳区新源里16号琨莎 professors the world has to offer. Every >15 Liyuan Jie, Tianzhu Town, Shunyi District built upon a solid foundation of core 中心1座105室(6462 9112/ 6462 9100, www.interna- month one of the professors from the 顺义区天竺镇丽苑街15号(8416 7718 www.bjrego.org) values and our mission to Connect, Inspire, tionalsos.com) University of Maryland comes to Beijing Challenge; Make a Difference. Our students Beijing World Youth Academy to instruct the class for 4 consecutive exemplify these values through their aware- ParkwayHealth Vantone Medical and 北京世青国际学校 Rehabilitation Center days (Thurs – Sun). The program lasts 18 ness of the world around them, service to months; the impact lasts a lifetime. Beijing World Youth Academy (BWYA) is an others, can-do spirit and commitment to Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm. CBD>1-2/F, Vantone Center, 6 international school for students of all na- Chaowai Street朝阳门外大街甲六号万通中心AB座一 Email: [email protected] excellence. WAB graduates are accepted Tel: 8526 2528/29 tionalities ages 6 to 18, offering programs into world-class colleges and universities 二层; (4000-662-882(24hrs); enquiry@parkwayhealth. on its campuses conveniently located in cn; www.parkwayhealth.cn across the globe. Rutgers International Executive MBA Wangjing and Lido. An IB World School > 5/F China Life Tower, 16 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang > 10 Lai Guang Ying Dong Lu, Chao Yang District Vista Medical Center 维世达诊所 since 2001, BWYA values holistic education 朝阳区来广营东路10号(5986 5588) District 朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦 (5877 and seeks to give students ample oppor- 24hours. Wi-Fi internet. 3/F Kerry Center. 1 Guanghua 1706, www.rutgersinasia.com) Lu 光华路1号嘉里中心商场3层 Tel: 8529-6618. Email: tunity to develop as globally-aware critical Yew Chung International School [email protected]. Website: www.vista-china.net thinkers. A wide varity of co-curricular 耀中国际学校 Mandarin Schools activities are offered to further enrich > Honglingjin Park, 5 Houbalizhuang, Chaoyang OASIS International Hospital student life. Graduates of BWYA have been District 朝阳区后八里庄5号红领巾公园 (8583 3731 The Frontiers School www.ycis-bj.com) OASIS International Hospital specializes in accepted at prestigious universities around the world. Age range: 6-18. Tuition: RMB serving the expatriate community with the Kindergartens latest world-class technology and a broad 100,000- 140,000/year. range of services, all in a pristine facility de- > Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm. 18 Huajiadi Beili, Wangjing, Beanstalk International Bilingual School signed to provide patients with the utmost Chaoyang District Inside 94 Middle school 北京市青苗国际双语学校 comfort, care and privacy. 朝阳区望京花家地北里18号(6461 7787 ext.32, 8454 > 1) Kindergarten > 1/F, Tower B, 40 Liangmaqiao Lu, > Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm; Sat-Sun, 8.30am-12.30pm; 3478/0649, [email protected], www.ibwya.net) Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路40号B座一层 (6466 24 Hour Emergency Bldg C1, 9 Jiuxianqiao Beilu 9255) 2) Primary School > Block 2, Upper East Side, Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥北路9号C1栋 (400 876 The British School of Beijing 北京英国 6 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东四环 2747, 5985-0333, www.oasishealth.cn) 学校北路6号阳光上东二区 (5130 7951) 3) Middle & High The British School of Beijing, established in School > 38 Nan Shiliju, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南十 2003, has campuses in Shunyi (primary & 里居38号 (8456 6019) SPA & MASSAGE secondary) and Sanlitun (primary). BSB offers an enhanced English National Curricu- La Maison Montessori de Pekin Happy Time Massage Center lum to 1,500 expatriate students, aged 1 to 北京中法双语蒙氏儿童之家 Pretty girl quality provide professional mas- 18, beginning with Early Years Foundation The first bilingual French-Chinese Montes- sage relax massage, oil massage 300/60 Stage, Primary, Secondary, IGCSE exams in sori kindergarten in Beijing, it welcomes mins, full body tantric massage 500/60 Year 10 and 11 and the International Bac- children between ages 2 to 6 years old. mins. calaureate (IB) Diploma programme in Year The kindergarten is located in a beautiful > Landgent city mall, Shuangjing bridge east north, Join the friendly and professional team at 12 and 13. Admission & Fees: RMB102,993- courtyard in the hutongs. Schedule: Mon- Chaoyang District 朝阳区双井桥东北侧乐成中心 (137 Frontiers, who’ve been teaching Mandarin 246,057. Contact our Admissions team to day to Friday: 8:30am to 3:30pm. After class 1790 8546 / 188 1170 6650) for 11 years. arrange a school tour. activities also offered. > 3/F, Bldg 30, Dongzhongjie, Dongzhimenwai, > 50 Dongsi Shisitiao, Dongcheng Dragonﬂy Therapeutic Retreat > Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm, South Side, 9 An Hua Street, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外东中街30号三层 6413 Shunyi District 顺义区安华街9号南侧(8047 3558, 东城区东四十四条50号 Created as a contemporary urban retreat, 1547, www.frontiers.com.cn, frontiers@frontiers. www.britishschool.org.cn, admissions@britishschool. Tel: 131 2025 0341/ 8401 3974; Dragonfly is an oasis of peace and tranquil- com.cn) org.cn) e-mail: [email protected] ity in the midst of the hectic city. www.lamaisonmontessoridepk.com > Daily, 10am-late. 1)60 Donghuamen Dajie (near Beijing Mandarin Language School Canadian International School of Beijing House of Knowledge International Kin- The Peninsula Hotel and Oriental Plaza) Dongcheng Established in 1998, Beijing Mandarin 北京加拿大国际学校 District东城区东华门大街60号(近王府饭店和东方广 dergarten (HOK) School is the city’s top institute for teaching Located in the Third Embassy Quarter of 场) (6527 9368, www.dragonfly.net.cn); 2) 1/F Eastern spoken and written Mandarin as a second House of Knowledge International kinder- Inn, Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区南三 downtown Beijing, the Canadian Interna- garten (HOK) has locations in both Shunyi language. More than 5,000 students tional School of Beijing (CISB) opened its and Chaoyang. Both locations offer a 里屯路逸羽酒店一层 (6593 6066); 3) Grand Summit from over 66 countries and more than 80 Plaza, 19 Dongfang Donglu (100m north of Lufthansa doors in September 2006. This world-class Kindergarten program for children aged 10 Center), Chaoyang District朝阳区燕莎桥东方东路19号 companies and embassies have successfully facility offers an internationally recognized months to 6 years (Pre-school). Students 外交会所1层(燕莎中心路北100米) (8532 3122) learned with us each year. Canadian & IB PYP, IB MYP and IBDP educa- are treated as competent learners and the > Guangming Hotel School: Room 0709, 7/F tion. The Canadian International School school emphasizes critical thinking and col- Angel Hands Massage Center Guangming Hotel (near the U.S Embassy) 朝阳区 of Beijing develops the whole child in an laboration skills, in an environment where 光明饭店7层0709 (8441 8391; info@beijingmanda- children “Lean to Learn”. In additional, rinschool.com; www.beijingmandarinschool.com; environmentally sensitive school within a kind, caring community to become a citizen the Shunyi location also has a elementary Skype: beijingmandarinschool1998) school starting from grade 1 in September of the world. 2014. > 38 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥 Beijing Juncheng Language School > 1) Quanfa Gardens Campus: North gate of Quanfa 路38号 (6465 7788 www.cisb.com.cn) 北京君诚语言学校 compound, 15 Maquanying, Chaoyang District 朝 > 1) Room 208, 1 Panjiapo Hutong, Chaoyangmenwai, 阳区马泉营15号泉发花园北门(6431 8452, www. Dongcheng District 东城区朝阳门外潘家坡胡同1号 Dulwich College Beijing hokschools.com) 2) Victoria Gardens Campus: 15 东城区职工大学208办室 (6525 9932/6526 7539) 2) 北京德威英国国际学校 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳 Gucheng Village, 15 Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, 1) Legend Garden Campus: 89 Jichang Lu, Shunyi 区朝阳公园西路15号维多利亚花园公寓(6538 2624, Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 District 首都机场路89号丽京花园 (6454 9000; www. www.hokschools.com) (8049 0307) dulwich-beijing.cn); 2) Beijing Riviera Campus: 1 Xiangjiang Beilu, Jingshun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝 EtonKids International Kindergarten The Bridge School 阳区京顺路香江北路1号香江花园 (8450 7676); 3) 伊顿国际幼儿园北京桥汉语言学校 River Garden Campus: River Garden Villas, Houshayu 1) Lido – 6436 7368 www.etonkids.com > Room C103 > (The Bridge School Head office)Room 503, 5/F, Baixinzhuang, Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪白辛庄裕 Lido Country Club, Lido Place Jichang Lu, Chaoyang Guangming Hotel, 42 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 京花园别墅 8046 5132 District 朝阳区蒋台路机场路丽都广场 2) 6506 4805 District 朝阳区亮马桥路42号光明饭店5层503室 3/F, Block D Global Trade Mansion Guanghua Lu, (15321793321 Grettchin) Harrow International School Beijing Chaoyang District 北京哈罗英国学校 www.harrowbeijing.cn 朝阳区光华路世贸国际公寓D座3层 3) 8437 1006 Let us release your stress and make you International Schools Harrow International School Beijing prides smile wherever you go... Aroma Soothes itself on its high academic standards, a Southwest corner of Beichen Xilu and Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区北辰西路与科荟路交汇处 Therapy Massage, Rose Oil (RMB 280/min); Beijing BISS International School close-knit school community, a rich extra- curricular activity program and the quality 西南角 4) 8480 5538 Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District, Aroma Relaxation Massage; Aroma Lomi 北京BISS国际学校 Lomi; Deep Relaxation Massage; Happy of its pastoral care provision. Leadership Beijing 朝阳区科荟路大屯里社区 5) 6533 6995 Bldg > Building 17, Area 4, Anzhen Xili Chaoyang District 19, Central Park, 6 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang District Hour at weekend, all services are 20% off. skills are promoted school-wide, with a 朝阳区安贞西里4区17楼 (6443 3151 www.biss. range of enrichment activities to help 朝阳区朝外大街6号新城国际19号楼 6) 6539 8967 Our masseuses will know how to pamper com.cn) Palm Springs International Apartments 8 Chaoyang you and attend to your every need. students develop teamwork and creative thinking skills, as well as independence and Park Nanlu Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园南路 > Room 1801, Building 2, JianwaiSOHO, CBDGuomao, Beijing City International School responsibility. Students graduating from 8号棕榈泉国际公寓 7) 6749 5008 Bldg 21, Guangqu Chaoyang 朝阳区国贸建外SOHO2号楼1801 (138 北京乐成国际学校 Harrow Beijing have won places at a range Jiayuan, Guangqumen- wai, Dongcheng District 东 1182 1008) Located in Beijing’s Central Business of universities across the world including 城区广渠门外广渠家园21号楼 8) 8478 0578 Baoxing District, Beijing City International School Princeton, Yale, Oxford and Cambridge. International Phase 2, Wangjing Chaoyang District Oriental Taipan Massage & Spa (BCIS) lives by its motto: “Empowering > Address: 287, Hegezhuang, Cuigezhuang County, 朝阳区望京宝星园国际社区2期 9) 8047 2983 Block 1, Since 2002, Oriental Taipan has been pam- and Inspiring through Challenge and Chaoyang District Arcadia Villas, Houshayu Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪 pering Beijing’s finest in their small chain 罗马环岛北侧天北路阿凯笛亚庄园1座 10) 5870 6779 Compassion.” This non-profit, independent of contemporary spas. Calming flower 朝阳区崔各庄乡何各庄村 287 号 Tel: +8610 20A Xidawang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区西大望路 co-educational day school offers an inter- aromas, Zen music, and trickling feng shui 6444 8900 Ext. 6900 Fax: +8610 6445 3870 甲20号首府社区内 national curriculum under the International fountains create a soothing atmosphere in Email: [email protected] Baccalaureate (IB) World School system and each of their locations, while a long list of Ivy Schools 艾毅幼儿园 is authorized to teach all three IB programs International School of Beijing treatments from around the world cater to www.ivyschools.com 1) East Lake Campus (8451 (Primary Years, Middle Years, and Diploma all pampering needs. 北京顺义国际学校 1380/1) C-101, East Lake Villas, 35 Dongzhimenwai > www.isb.bj.edu.cn 10 Anhua Lu, Shunyi District 顺 Main Street, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外大街35号东 > Daily, 12am-midnight. Sunjoy Mansion, 6 Ritan Lu, Programme). > 77 Baiziwan Nan’er Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区百义区安华路10号 (8149 2345) 湖别墅C座101室; 2) Ivy Bilingual School 艾毅双语幼儿 Chaoyang District朝阳区日坛路6号 (400 001 0202, 子湾南二路77号 (8771 7171 www.bcis.cn) 园 Ocean Express Campus: (8446 7286/7) Building E, www.taipan.com.cn) SIBS Springboard International Blingual Ocean Express, 2 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝 The International Montessori School of School 君城国际双语学院阳区东三环北路2号远洋新干线E座 3) Orchid Garden EDUCATION Beijing 北京蒙台梭利国际学校 Springboard International Bilingual School Campus: (8439 7080) Orchid Garden, 18 Xinjin Lu, Founded in 1990, MSB is Beijing’s first fully is a place where children, staff and parents Cuige Xiang, Chaoyang 朝阳区崔各乡新锦路18号 MBA & EMBA Schools registered international Montessori school. work in partnership to enable all their 卓锦万代 4) Wangjing Campus: (5738 9166/1332 The school also boasts an unsurpassed dual 110 6167) Kylin Zone, Bldg 11, Fuan Xilu, Wangjing, students to realize their full potential. They Chaoyang 朝阳区望京阜安西路11号楼合生麒麟社内 BBA at BFSU-SolBridge Mandarin/English program geared towards are offering a stimulating and full inter- 7) Rm106, warehouse4, 653 Waima Lu, by Wangjia 北京外国语大学国际商学院 helping students achieve fluency in either national curriculum as well as an exciting Matou Lu (3376 8308) 外马路653号4库106室, 近王 > 19 Xisanhuan Beilu, Haidian District, 海淀区西三 language from an early age. Curriculum after school program, which will include 家码头路环北路19号 (solbridge.bfsu.edu.cn, 8881 6563/8881 aside, MSB boasts spacious classrooms, a Kung Fu, calligraphy, health and fitness and 6763/8881 8537) high teacher-student ratio and impres- football. 3e International 北京3e国际学校 sive staff longevity. Tuition: RMB98,000 > 15 Gucheng Duan, Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, 6437 3344 - RMB177,000/year. Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 LEMBA www.3eik.com, 9-1 Jiangtai Xilu Chaoyang 朝阳区将 > Bldg 8, 2A, Xiangjiang Beilu, Chaoyang District (www.sibs.com.cn, [email protected]; 8049 2450) The Leadership EMBA from the University 台西路9-1号(四德公园旁) of Maryland 朝阳区香江北路甲2号院8号楼 6432 8228 ext. 800, Robert H. Smith School of Business is a http:>www.msb.edu.cn, [email protected] Western Academy of Beijing unique learning experience in Beijing. The 京西国际学校

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www.thatsmags.com | october 2014 | 79 sports | football Derby day Why local rivalries make football what it is

by Ian Walker

“You wish that the violent behavior could be controlled but it’s part and parcel of the tribalism of football...”

On the morning of an important football we’re now the top dogs in town. While we safety of the bus on the way out of the sta- match, coaches always tell players to relax needed the three points to push for that dium, you could see our fans were ecstatic. but stay focused. Sounds easy enough, but going head to head – it’s a whole different theACL chance place, Shenhua to restore have some had much their needed noses derbyAnd you was, could and also what see is theon the Arsenal line. fans story.when it’s derby day – two fierce local rivals put out of joint, and this game gave them- wereBack on the to last floor. month’s I realized game then and what the a Walking into a packed derby day sta- ing days it was always the derby games we dium in Shanghai last month, I could tell anticipated.pride. And I’d The know, results because would in affectmy play our are under so much pressure, big derbies the atmosphere was special. The turnout morale for weeks after. match ended 1-1. Considering the players was huge. I don’t think the Shenhua fans When I was playing for Tottenham that takes risks – but this game was a real thought that Dongya would bring so many, can often end in draws – brave is the team last year I can see it’s grown considerably. Hotspur back in England, our twice-yearly cracker. All 22 players gave it everything but Thethe rivalry tension is had real been now building – even in all the week games against Arsenal were the first thing they could and the tackles were flying in. the fans looked for when the fixture list A great advert for the Chinese game, no Weibo posts uploaded by Shenhua fans had kilometerswas released. apart.) (Both It teamsmeant are so muchin North to the Dongya.doubt about Sadly it. forAll him,the post-match he missed atalk pen will- and everybody had been talking about it. London – the two stadiums are only 6 - alty,be about as well Wu as Lei, a golden our 22-year-old chance near striker the at ished 15th in the league as long as you beat gone viral online, with their Colombian fans, that they would ‘let you off’ if you fin right,Captain gun Giovanni meaning Moreno ‘get lost!’). standing over threeend that goals I swear in three he could games have – and scored despite in our Chinese international Wu Lei (above, Arsenal twice. That was the feeling: “Just anhis injury sleep. setback,He’d started he’d thebeen season creating on fire goals – beat Arsenal, just beat Arsenal.” When we for the team all season. But I guess the surprising;Word had you reached don’t normally us that violence see crowd used to play them, you’d see fighting at the pressure of the derby got to him. had flared up outside the stadium. It was Metro stops from the team bus on the way Two years ago Dongya were still only adds to the pressure, knowing that andto the parcel ground. of the You tribalism wish that that the goes violent with violence at Chinese games. As a player it behavior could be controlled but it’s part- outcome that rests on your shoulders. try’s league. playing in the league below the CSL, they the fans invest so much emotion on an football, visible in just about every coun ofbarely the biggest registered of the on season. Shenhua’s I think radar. that Now handful of derby matches, so when they was a part of; I’d just made the Spurs squad showsthe Dongya what versusa threat Shenhua Dongya clash is to Shenhuais one comeThe around Chinese all Supereyes are League on them. only The has two a at 19I didn’tyears oldactually and was play on in thefirst bench. big derby It I in recent years. I bet I know which game theand Shanghaithe impact fans they’ve will be made marking in the in CSL their Guangzhou sides, Evergrande and R&F, was the Semi Final of the FA Cup in 1991, thatis one often fixture, only while one set the of rivalry fans is between allowed getsand thein club first football, one to be between played attwo Wembley, of the released. inneighbors the stadium. Beijing But and for Tianjin us, the isShanghai so fierce the national stadium. About as big as it diaries when next season’s fixture list is Former england international goalkeeper, ian walker loser.biggest So sides much in at English stake. Wefootball. won 3-1, Winner with played for tottenham hotspur, leicester city and boys,derby but trumps with all.my Mynew former club Dongya club Shanghai push- makes the FA Cup final – nothing for the bolton wanderers. he is now goalkeeper coach of Shenhua have always been seen as the big shanghai east asia. Paul Gascoigne scoring one of the best free ing for an Asian Champions League spot, kicks Wembley has ever seen. From the 80 | october 2014 | www.thatsmags.com