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MAY 2017

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2 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Editor’s Note MAY 2017 DEALS

We're giving away tickets to some of If you’d told me a decade ago that my third and fourth homes would be Tianjin and Hebei the very best Beijing (after London and Beijing), I would have questioned your sanity. Then I would have asked: Where are Tianjin and Hebei? But whether we realize it or not, both play a growing role in our lives. Their integration parties, openings, with the capital – forming the fabled 110-million-person megalopolis, Jing-Jin-Ji – is fully underway, meaning big changes at China’s usual (breakneck) speed. shows and talks all My experience is probably atypical for a Beijinger. After all, at That’s we publish a bi- monthly Tianjin supplement and report regularly on happenings in Hebei (you could say that we’re the magazine of choice for the modern Jing-Jin-Ji urbanite). Nonetheless, I’ve month, alongside seen an increasing amount of crossover in the three years I’ve been working in the region. Integration sounds great on paper: more connectivity, better infrastructure and less free meals, drinks, pressure on public services. But the process isn’t without its causalities. The seemingly indiscriminate bricking-up of your favorite hutongs in recent months can’t be viewed in iso- discounts and prizes. lation. The relocation of small businesses and markets – away from the city center and into surrounding areas – is a central pillar of the strategy. Bad news for your hutong neighbors, perhaps. But there’s hope for small business else- All you have to do where in the region. In this month’s cover story, we travel to the three rural counties set to be transformed into a Shenzhen-style Special Economic Zone, and learn that there’s a great is scan the QR code - patch from the site of the Xiongan New Area (page 46), nestled alongside an introduction to below, follow us on Hebei,deal of youroptimism most inimportant places set neighbor. to benefit from change in the region. You can read our dis Elsewhere in the magazine: Karoline Kan delves into Beijing’s booming industry for live-in maternity nurses (page 10); Dr. Jonathan Chatwin explores China’s 16th-century WeChat and keep an from a micro-hutong (in our recently revived interiors section, page 24); I chat 90s synthe- eye out for your chance sizersflirtations with with the posterglobalization boy of progressive(page 14); Dominique techno, Nathan Wong Fake finds (page out how 32); to and make Noelle a hostel Mateer eats her way through the city’s best new brunches (page 58) while bringing you her charac- teristically perspicacious roundup of the latest food and drink openings (from page 52). to win. You'll get some other great stuff on your phone too.

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WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 3 6 CITY

7 TALES OF THE CITY Green cards are improving – not that you have one 13 OLYMPIC PROPORTIONS Beijing’s iconic, and bizarre, Olympic Observation Tower 14 PROTO-GLOBAL China’s surprising role in 16th century trade networks 14

18 LIFE & STYLE 21 FLOAT ON BY The latest openings include a studio for ‘floating therapy’ 22 YEEZUS WALKS This season’s hottest Kanye West-inspired kicks 24 SPACE JAM 21 Building a Beijing hostel from a micro-hutong

28 ARTS 32 NO FAKING THIS Progressive techno’s poster boy Nathan Fake 34 WET YOUR WHISTLE We guide you through Wetware Festival’s killer lineup 36 GATECRASHERS Maybe Mars’ latest signings, Gate to Otherside 36

52 EAT & DRINK 56 IMMITATION, FLATTERY New joint Peri-Peri looks suspiciously familiar 58 BRUNCH IN THE FACE Put on your Sunday best, it’s brunchin’ time 60 BEAUTY AND THE BISTRO The best new French restaurant 57 in town is… affordable?

4 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Meet Beijing’s live-in 40 OH, BABY maternity nurses

42 HEBEI OR THE HIGHWAY Beijing’s neighbor is about to change your world

P39

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 5 CITY

PODIUM FINISH Architects and Beijing residents take on Beijing’s belated Olympic Park Observation Tower, p13

Ask a Laobeijing Maternity Matrons Chinese Urban Dictionary p8 p10 p17 TALES OF THE CITY 7 - MAY 2017 | | MAY WWW.THATSMAGS.COM With all these changes on hand, we suggest With all these changes on hand, we China has also recently altered the work the work altered has also recently China permit application process, switching to a to switching permit application process, classifies which system point-based grading top- for ‘A’ categories: three into workers talent and talent, professional ‘B’ for tiered in or those working unskilled workers for ‘C’ That also coincides with the service industry. is said to which permit card,’ a new ‘work and permit employment the standard replace certificates. expert foreign visa or permit status, current your reviewing or… confusing (‘am I a B if it all gets too or, visa agency. consulting a reliable C?’), vided they were senior executives in large in large senior executives were vided they corporations). of many new initiatives being undertaken undertaken being new initiatives of many the talent to foreign more help attract to said that it would Last month, China country. permit for work be launching a five-year announced that it was In January, foreigners. could degrees with postgraduate foreigners experience. work obtain Z visas without prior the age of 60 over foreigners And last year, permits (pro obtain work to allowed were - - - - But the number of cards issued appears to issued appears to But the number of cards is one of the new card The introduction Foreigners will be able to apply for the for apply will be able to Foreigners tion date. Around 7,000 foreigners — includ 7,000 foreigners Around tion date. and soon-to-be-released star NBA ing former — Marbury Stephon player Beijing Ducks in China permanent residence granted were program card the green after in the 10 years launched in 2004. This number is just a frac are who tion of the 600,000-plus foreigners in the country during lived have to estimated this time. 1,500 rising. In 2016 alone, over be slowly a residents, became permanent foreigners last year. from increase 163 percent ports anyway, given that many locals have locals have that many given ports anyway, card. seen a green never and once training this summer, new cards place in June. In the takes work technical can holders card green meantime, current until the expira cards existing still use their up from the current ones, which are often often are ones, which the current up from machines. But incompatible with ID-reading green the number of digits on the current IDs. And that of Chinese from differs cards pass carry their need to will likely holders -

The new cards will be similar to Chinese Chinese will be similar to The new cards The new cards are said to be a huge step be a huge step said to are The new cards Once they request to renew their current their current renew to request Once they Foreigners with permanent residence with permanent residence Foreigners bank accounts and access other public ser like buy train tickets, check into hotels, open hotels, check into tickets, train buy like will make it easier for expats to do things to expats for it easier will make government agencies and institutions. This government citizens’ ID cards, and can be used at different and can be used at different ID cards, citizens’ agencies, hotels and banks. and banks. agencies, hotels be shared with railways, airlines, insurance insurance airlines, with railways, be shared features. equipped with anti-counterfeit containing identity information. The data can containing identity information. will also be the cards say vices. Authorities embedded with a machine-readable chip embedded with a machine-readable permits, applicants will receive a smart card a smart card permits, applicants will receive Card.’ ‘Foreigner’s Permanent Residence Identity Residence Permanent ‘Foreigner’s new card, which has been snappily named has been snappily which new card, permits will be able to exchange them for a them for exchange permits will be able to easier for expats working in China. working expats easier for Security, the new cards aim to make daily life life daily make aim to the new cards Security, of a new initiative by the Ministry of Public by of a new initiative with ‘smart cards.’ Starting in July as part Starting in July with ‘smart cards.’ begin replacing green cards for foreigners foreigners for cards green begin replacing Expats in Beijing take note: China will soon China note: Expats in Beijing take by Bridget O’Donnell Bridget by NEW GREEN CARDS FOR EXPATS EXPATS FOR CARDS NEW GREEN PREMIERING SUMMER 2017: 2017: SUMMER PREMIERING THE BUZZ

ASK A LAOBEIJING We meet Li, 70, enjoying the sun with his grandchild in Gulou.

CATKINS OUT OF THE BAG A man in appears indifferent to the willow and poplar catkins sweeping through the capital.

What are your thoughts on boycotting another country’s goods because of political rifts? “I think boycotting another country’s goods is inappropriate. If you don’t buy their goods, they won’t buy your goods and, in the end, the economy suffers for it. It’s a form of squabbling which, over time, can become pretty ugly. CHILL PILLS In the case of China and South Korea [the THAAD missile defense system], it’s the respective governments who have had a Public hospitals will no longer falling out. I don’t think the people should follow suit. We should buy whatever goods thanks to recent reforms to Beijing’s we feel are appropriate. Live the life you medicalbe able to system. profit fromPatients drug were sales, pay - want, buy what you want. This isn’t an issue ing markups of up to 15 percent on of patriotism. Who can bother themselves medicines, though they’ll now be with so many problems? able to purchase them at cost price. A I’ve never been to South Korea, but per- simultaneous hike in service charges haps in the future when my grandchild is means that the overall price of treat- older we can go together. I don’t have any ment will remain roughly the same. South Korean friends but if I did, these po- But it’s hoped that reforms will im- prove the standard of care by reduc- our relationship.” Aslitical told issues to Dominique wouldn't have Wong any influence on on drug sales. ing hospitals’ financial dependency

8 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EDITED BY DOMINIQUE WONG / bjeditor@ urbanatomy.com

"What happens to students from arid places that have no seaside or rivers?" … is the top reward, in , offered to Beijing residents by Web user ‘Yixunsangyao’ comments on the recent announcement the municipal government in exchange for information on foreign that students must learn to swim before they can spies. Informants can expect to earn anywhere from RMB10,000 to graduate. According to the new rules, prospective graduates must RMB500,000 for a tipoff, while RMB500,000 (USD72,000) is reserved show they can swim at least 50 meters using any stroke. The univer- for those who share prime information. Tips can be made via a spe- sity says that swimming is an essential survival skill which improves cial hotline, by mail or in person. The offer comes after last year’s ‘awareness’ campaign, which included cartoons warning against be- of such a requirement, considering many Tsinghua students come ing seduced by redheaded foreign spies called David. fromphysical inland fitness. cities. However, online commenters questioned the fairness

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 9 CITY | FEATURE

10 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FEATURE | CITY

The Maternity Nurses Meeting China’s Surging Demand for Live-In Help words by Karoline Kan, images by Victor Liu

WWW.THATSMAGS.COMWWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MARCH | MAY 2017 | 11 CITY | FEATURE

This page and previous page | Maternity nurses, or yuesao, take part in a training session in Shaoyaoju, Beijing.

ow would you feel about moms to stay at home was thought to keep having a stranger live in of its available matrons alongside introduc- inauspicious forces at bay. your home after your child is born, 24 hours torymaternity video agency.clips, many The offirm’s which website show liststhem all Regardless of women’s motivations for par- a day, seven days a week? For a growing performing massages on lifelike baby dolls. taking in zuoyuezi, the tradition has created number of Chinese couples, this is exactly Demand for Fuyou Nurse’s services has a huge market for maternity services. And as what the doctor ordered. grown dramatically in recent years, says CEO a growing number of young Chinese couples - Zhang Zheng. move to cities – away from their hometowns ing as a yuesao, or maternity matron, for one “Most Chinese families now only have one and family support networks – the need for suchDing couple. Qiong It’s has her just job finished to take 42 care days of mothwork- child, or two at the most, so they want to yuesao services has grown in turn. ers and their babies in the days and nights provide them with the best of everything,” According to Fuyou Nurse’s Zhang, the end after the birth, often for a month or more. Zhang says, “which includes services from of the one-child policy has also contributed the moment they are born. Parents want a to the industry’s recent surge. than the parents,” Ding says. “Dangerous yuesao service because they believe in tak- “Many women who were born in the 1970s things“During can thathappen first to week, babies I feel at any more time. stressed And - feel that they have one last chance to have whenever the baby cries, wants to eat, needs another baby, so in 2016 we have seen more its diaper changed or simply wakes up, I wake month,ing a scientific rather thanapproach the old to superstitiouscaring for moth need for yuesao,” he says. “And this has con- approach.”er and baby in that first, most important tinued into 2017, with most of our matrons’ when I’m working.” Demand for maternity care stems from schedules full until July.” upDing too. Isays sleep that for people less than are five surprised hours a to night hear the tradition of zuoyuezi – literally ‘sitting The industry remains lightly regulated. she makes RMB13,000 a month – more than the month.’ Traditional Chinese medicine Guidelines published last year say that yue- many college graduates. But it’s not an easy teaches that, for a month after a child’s sao should be aged between 18 and 55, un- job, she says. The hours are long, and Ding birth, mothers should avoid any activity that dertake regular training and possess at least will live with her clients over the course of might cause coldness or tiredness. Some of a middle school diploma, though these are a month or two, taking responsibility for the recommendations appear sensible, such not legal requirements. changing diapers, cleaning the baby, offer- as avoiding heavy lifting, but others have ing emotional support and making up to six Ministry of Health, matrons must partake meals a day. instructed to resist brushing their teeth, in Toa 10-day obtain training a certificate course, from culminating China’s in There were 17.5 million babies born in showering,no obvious benefit.drinking New cold mothers water or are opening often a nursing exam. But Zhang says that the ex- China in 2015, according to the National the windows. amination is easy to pass and that “working Bureau of Statistics. And a reported one-third While zuoyuezi is still widely practiced, the experience” matters more. of families with newborns will buy home more extreme rules are often ignored. But it “I think the industry has grown wild,” nursing services, leading to growing salaries still appeals to today’s young mothers, says claims Yu Jiangbei, a new father who recently in the industry. Ding now earns more than Chang Yaohua, professor of Chinese culture paid RMB16,000 for a 26-day yuesao service. four times what she did when starting out as and literature at Beijing International Studies Yu says that he conducted a lot of research a yuesao in 2007. University. Ding says that her age and experience of “You can’t say that [these restrictions] are suitable matron. He reached out to a dozen giving birth are seen as positives by potential all wrong,” he says. “In ancient times, moth- companies,online, but still interviewing found it difficult several to candidates choose a customers. ers’ environments were not as good as they before making a decision. But while Yu still “The clients think I’m more trustworthy are today, so women who’d just had babies feels stressed, he says that the decision to and patient, as I’m in my mid-forties,” she needed to be careful. But of course traditions hire help paid off. says. “I’ve raised children myself, so I have should be updated as conditions change.” “[People like me] want a better way to take more sympathy for the mothers and their Chang argues that the the practice arises care of our babies. If my mother was to help babies.” from discrimination against females – as during the zuoyuezi, I worry that there would The 43-year-old is one of around 500 well as an old superstitious belief that when be arguments over the best way to do things. yuesao contracted by Fuyou Nurse, a Beijing women bleed, it brings bad luck. Forcing new Hiring a yuesao

avoids these conflicts.”

12 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM ON THE BLOCK | CITY

OLYMPIC PARK OBSERVATION TOWER, The Building Consisting of five separate steel towers of varying height – the highest reaching 258 meters – the Olympic Park Observation Tower rests on a concrete structure in the Olympic Green beside a wide pedestrian walkway. Architect firm China Architecture Design & Research Group (CAG) won a competition in the mid- 2000s for the tower’s design. But controversy ensued when they were accused of plagiarism by Shenzhen architect Ping Caohan during construction, a charge CAG disputed. Finally completed in 2014, the tower functions as an observation platform offering views of the entire Olympic Green, as well as the Forbidden City and other sights. Urban planning guidelines forbid The Residents’ View the construction of Standing outside Olympic Park subway, Beijing local Liu tells us: “It’s quite a “bizarre” and “odd- powerful-looking tower. The design reminds me of the patterns in karst caves shaped” buildings that are [caves formed from the dissolution of limestone, dolomite and gypsum].” devoid of character or cultural Meanwhile, along the pedestrian path we meet Shi as he waits for a friend. “It’s heritage. Here, we gather nice to have a tower structure offering views across the city,” he says. opinions on some of the unusual The Architect’s View architecture that remains, from Founder of Shi Shang Architecture, Lea Chen, delivers a blunt assessment: “The both a designer’s and layman’s tower has a nickname, ‘the gigantic nails,’ given by unforgiving Beijingers. The viewpoint. idea of it representing five Olympic rings when seen from above is hard to follow, since it is impossible to actually see the structure from above. “It failed to create big headlines or rave reviews. It has neither won locals’ hearts, nor polarized opinions in heated debates,” Chen continues. “In short, it doesn’t stand for anything other than its functional purpose: an observation tower. One may argue that it was a missed opportunity to create more value within an urban context, especially compared to the ‘super-trees’ at Singapore’s ‘Gardens by the Bay,’ which take on more of a functional role in their surrounding environment. But, when compared to other [Olympic] host cities like Rio, Beijing has managed to maintain visitor flow and activity in the Olympic Green.” DW

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 13 CITY | FEATURE

Four hundred years ago, a new trading route linking Latin America with Asia put China at the heart of a globalizing world. So why do we see China as a historical recluse, asks Dr. Jonathan Chatwin, and what does it mean for today’s diplomacy?

14 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FEATURE | CITY

This page and overleaf | Each winter, the elegant Swiss ski resort of Davos Yet the view of globalization as an intrinsically A collection of 17th and plays host to some of the world’s richest and most Anglo-American idea – one to which China has 18th century maps created by - explorers on the first trading ested in the winter sports on offer, this coterie myopic view of history. For, as Peter Gordon and routes between Asia and Latin ofinfluential billionaires, people. CEOs, Besuited politicians and andentirely celebrities uninter Juanbeen Joséunwillingly Morales subjected remind us – intestifies their new to the book West’s The America convene to attend the annual meeting of the World Silver Way: China, Spanish America and the Birth Economic Forum, which modestly touts itself as ‘the of Globalization, 1565–1815, global economic net- foremost creative force for engaging the world’s works with an outward-facing China at their center top leaders in collaborative activities to shape the existed long before the emergence of America and global, regional and industry agendas.’ Great Britain as the world’s major trading nations. The opening address of 2017’s meeting was de- The Silver Way returns us to the 15th and 26th livered by Chinese President Xi Jinping who, in front centuries, when the Spanish and Portuguese of an audience rocked by a resurgence of nationalist kingdoms led international trade and exploration. sentiment in the West, offered a full-throated de- Having battled to establish global navigational fense of globalization. “We should recede from our routes, the two countries came to an agreement respective national positions and embark on the in 1494 which divided up Asia and the Americas right pathway towards economic globalization at between them. The Treaty of Tordesillas “gave the right pace,” President Xi observed. “We should Portugal all of Asia and the part of what is now not develop a habit of retreating to the harbor Brazil that sticks out into the Atlantic,” Gordon and whenever we encounter a storm, for this will never Morales write. “Meanwhile, everything west of the get us to the other side of the ocean.” line went to Spain, granting them most of what The notion of China as the world’s leading cheer- came to be called, a few years later, the Americas.” leader for globalization raised a few eyebrows. The Despite this agreement, however, Spain desired access to the riches of Asia. In 1564, Miguel López de Legazpi led an expedition from Spanish-ruled theChinese perception view of that the thewider country world had has been, been fordefined the Mexico to the Philippines – indisputably on the centuryin recent before times theby a establishment defiant nationalism, of the People’s fuelled by Portuguese side of the line – to establish a base in Republic in 1949, subject to cynical exploitation by the global community. Newsweek’s headline But in many ways, this was the easy part. Legazpi ‘Xi Jinping’s Davos Speech Showed the World Has wasthe Pacific joined fromby Andrés which de to Urdaneta,trade. whose chief Turned Upside Down’ effectively captured the sense of incredulity in the West at the apparent reversal Urdaneta, no Europeans had managed to sail east of international roles which had taken place post- responsibility was to find a route back. Before Trump and -Brexit. obvious problem in returning goods purchased across the Pacific to South America, creating an

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 15 CITY | FEATURE

in Asia – in particular Chinese silk – to Europe. Urdaneta solved century onwards – as the factory of the world,” Morales says. the problem, heading north to avoid the western-blowing trade The book also views the Silver Way as analogous to the earlier, and much better known, Silk Road. “In both cases,” the authors Acapulco in October 1565. write, “a single commodity acted to bind disparate regions and winds,“The andSilver finding Way” a is route a term which coined successfully by Gordon returned and Morales him to peoples; the trade routes thus created were both engines of de- describe the route Urdaneta established from the Philippines to velopment and conduits for culture, philosophies and religions.” Mexico, which allowed two-way maritime trade between Europe President Xi Jinping has, of course, recently invoked the - paradigm of the Silk Road in the ‘One Belt, One Road’ initiatives, rency – silver. which seek to encourage overland and maritime trade with Asia andThe Asia history via South of this America trade route predicated is not widelyon the firstknown global in the cur and Europe. The assertive approach China is currently taking in West, the two authors observe: “History has been generally told - not just from a Eurocentric point of view, as many Asians com- gion has been the cause of much disquiet in the US in particular. plain, but also an Anglo-centric one,” Morales says. “The English- establishingYet, the authors its role of as the the The major Silver economic Way suggest force that in the potential Pacific re speaking and the Spanish-speaking worlds have been particu- larly at odds for reasons of an old rivalry where the former had cultivation of a fuller understanding of their earlier economic triumphed in the end.” relationships.conflicts between As Gordon China and tells the us, West historical might networks be avoided such by asthe the Gordon adds: “We remember history that is useful to us. As Silver Way offer a template for a cooperative and mutually ben- far as the English-speaking West is concerned, we had a histori- cal narrative that explained Anglo-American world dominance “The Silver Way shows that there are alternatives where pretty well.” Easteficial and globalized West have economy. coexisted without one side dominating and However, both authors saw the relevance of the analogy be- where globalization continued and deepened, without either global institutions or national policies to that effect. The 21st have emerged in recent decades. Once again, these networks have century may not end up looking like the late 16th century – but Chinatween atthe their Pacific center: trade “China route has and opened the globalized up to foreign networks investment which it doesn't have to end up looking like the darkest days of the and repositioned itself again – as it started to be from the 16th 20th century either.”

16 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM CHINESE URBAN DICTIONARY | CITY

more about someone. However, for some folks, it is the only question needed to‘Where work are you you out. from?’ is often the first thing we ask when we’re trying to learn From Henan? You’re a liar and a cheat. From Guangdong? You must eat every animal under the sun. From Dongbei? You must only do business through shady connections. From Beijing? You must love talking about politics and telling tall tales. Sichuan? Quite the temper. Yunnan? Good at singing and dancing but probably can’t read. Inner Mongolia? How many dairy cows do you have? San Francisco? Gay! New York? Coastal elite in a liberal bubble. Literally meaning ‘map cannon,’ ditupao is the act of attacking individuals or

a map with a cannon and indiscriminately ‘killing’ all in the given region. groupsIn a homogenized based purely societyon where like they China’s, are from. you can’tIt’s the blame figurative people act for of assuming shooting Ditupao / dìtúpào / 地图炮 v. judging or discriminating homogeny among those who grew up in the same place. If you are from Henan, against individuals or groups purely based on where they are you may expect different social norms than someone from Guangdong. If you from; stereotyping are from Dongbei, you may have a higher tolerance for guanxi than someone from Shanghai. But as various parts of the country – and the world – become more integrat- People who live in Guomao are soulless money ed, stereotyping becomes increasingly problematic. The province Henan grabbers. suffers so much from ditupao that its workers are routinely discriminated against by employers due to their ‘reputation’ for dishonesty. Another thing about ditupao Why are you firing ditupao on Guomao? For example, you can aim your cannonis this: Cannons at a part canof the be country fired at any(Shanghai? point on Stingyany map, and no calculating!), matter the size zoom and in no and matter aim at how a district near or of farShanghai the magnification. (Pudong? Because I live in the Gulou area for the Tuhao!), and then zoom way out and aim at half the world (you’re from the purpose of feeling superior. Southern hemisphere? Lazy!).

ditupao and those who are from Anhui.” I know we are all tempted to simplify A common joke goes: “There are two kinds of people I hate: those who fire You are the victim of your own ditupao. things by saying “I'll never deal with those from Henan again,” but humans are best not reduced to dots on a map. Mia Li

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 17 LIFE & STYLE

SPATIAL AWARENESS Making a hostel from a 35sqm hutong courtyard, p24 Photo by Wu Qingshan

Floating Therapy Sneakers Phuket p21 p22 p26 SPOTLIGHT - 19 - - - 东城区小经厂胡同 s Bali retreat takes place ’ MAY 2017 | | MAY WWW.THATSMAGS.COM : [Laughs] cause it makes us happy and we like sharing like and we us happy cause it makes with other people. learn we what The Mind Body Project tact [email protected] for info). Community yoga takes place Every Tuesday, 6pm and 7.30pm; RMB75; Project Pengyou Courtyard, 65 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Dongcheng 65 (www.themindbodyproject.com; 152 0122 0289) to start. They want to learn how to meditate, meditate, to learn how to start. want to They a lot of apps, like are there Now but how? good access points and Apps are Headspace. can do at home without feel something you a class. to going by ing intimidated or anger? deal with stress do you How water. think about being like AF: I try to Lee? Bruce Like BD situ to I react that’s how people say AF: Yeah, important. is really ations. I think breathing you those breaths take if you reacting, Before it in that way say to have don’t you realize and that it’ll be OK. Project? Body for The Mind What’s next much at once. do too trying not to BD: We’re quality because maintain our to want We a lot of other both also managing we’re make to want at the same time. We projects say not just pumping out things to we’re sure do this be We company. the hottest we’re Jul 14-22; US100/day (flights not included, con : It’s for everyday people. I think that if everyday : It’s for sing that the to a little embarrassed : I was be different might : Our interpretation class that was about stress management and management stress about class that was and sleep better feel help people to would better. all- and welcoming really The class was just for yogis. – not inclusive BD a with something [like connected feel you think don’t it, then go for but if you mantra] something else. try maybe then you, it serves I’m when songs sing children’s I That’s why cheesy… if that was instructing classes. Sorry Boat.’ Your Row Row ‘Row AF: I liked BD it can help people know, time but,first you move painful that yoga about how forget be. could possibly out, started has ‘mindfulness’ you Since What does it popular. especially become exactly? mean BD mindfulness teacher. than the traditional of how me, is being aware Mindfulness, for each situation. It’s not to responding we’re and say day every meditate I need to like It’s practical pain.’ my or ‘honor ‘namaste’ be more to it’s trying self-care; for strategies others, and and to myself to compassionate I’m doing. of what being aware mindfulness people incorporate can How lives? their everyday into where know really AF: A lot of people don’t -

: I used to hate yoga. I’d go into a class and I’d go into yoga. hate : I used to : We wanted a space to meet like-minded meet like-minded a space to wanted : We

interview by Dominique Wong, image by Victor Liu Victor by image Dominique Wong, by interview Body Project DUNN Co-Founders of The Mind BRITTANY

FARRELLY AND AND FARRELLY ALYSSA ALYSSA make me feel OK. So, I wanted to design a to OK. So, I wanted me feel make we tried last night. It was one of our one tried last night. It was we just wouldn’t Some teachers flexible. be really And you also offer community yoga, which which yoga, also offer community you And pants and tight super wear would Everybody schedule is up to [you]. schedule is up to BD and intimidated. uncomfortable really feel meditative activity every day the rest of the the rest day every activity meditative classes. favorite my health. So, at our retreat, apart from a apart from health. So, at our retreat, my this one recipe. Your health is different from from is different health Your this one recipe. BD also want that we discovered people, and we be to have health doesn’t people that show to gyms, but they were really expensive. really were gyms, but they wanted because we retreats offering started Heyrobics instructors – Ed.] and a few new and a few – Ed.] instructors Heyrobics fitness instruction, we as offering So as well just Heyrobics [both Farrelly and Dunn are and Dunn are [both Farrelly just Heyrobics build mental connections with the body. ed to ago, we really couldn’t find anything. It was It was find anything. couldn’t really ago, we first [started out], even just a couple of years just a couple of years out], even [started first : Fitness is booming now but when we we but when AF: Fitness is booming now MindBody Project. MindBody Tell us about the evolution of The the evolution us about Tell what mindfulness means to them. mindfulness means to what give advice for dealing with stress and share share and dealing with stress for advice give founders Alyssa Farrelly and Brittany Dunn and Brittany Farrelly Alyssa founders yoga and wellbeing programs for both for programs and wellbeing yoga and businesses. Beijing-based co- individuals running fitness classes to organizing retreats, retreats, organizing running fitness classes to The Mind Body Project has gone from has gone from Project The Mind Body STYLE RADAR UNDER THE LENS Laser Egg, Upgraded Alexander Wang x Adidas Originals Drop 3

Remember that sleek pollution-moni- toring device that cropped up around The third and final drop of the collaboration Beijing a couple of years ago? You between Adidas Originals and Alexander know – the one that looks like an egg? Wang was released on April 1, the last of the Well this month marks the launch of much-hyped Spring/Summer collection. The a new and improved Laser Egg called, remaining 30-plus items stay true to the rather sensibly, Laser Egg 2. Obviously collection’s sleek vibes, and include French the key feature from the original device terry sweatsuits, windbreakers, bright- – its ability to accurately read PM2.5 colored jerseys, track pants and basketball – remains intact. But there are loads shorts. But all eyes are locked on the chunky of other neat features, including tem- 80s-style basketball sneakers, which have perature and humidity readings. The proved to be some of the most popular kicks egg can link up with your phone and www.alexanderwang.cn, www.adidas.com.cn of 2017 so far. even connect with Siri, who can give you real-time readings of the air quality in your home (or, you know, acciden- tally FaceTime your ex). The company behind the egg has undergone a name- change and is now known as Kaiterra (rather than Origins). You can still buy the pre-rebrand gear online, including the OxyBox air purifier. And keep your eyes peeled for the high-end Laser Egg 2+, which will be able to monitor Total Volatile Organic Compounds (TVOCs), www.kaiterra.com which are known carcinogens.

COVET Uniqlo x André Saraiva

Over the years, Parisian graffiti artist André Saraiva (who’s also the founder of Shanghai nightclub Le Baron) has collaborated with fashion houses like Louis Vuitton and Chanel, as well as having his work showcased in some of the world’s most popular museums and galleries. His recent collaboration with Uniqlo’s UT (a specialty tee line) brings his street art to an even larger audience. These women’s and girls’ T-shirts feature prints of Saraiva’s popular character Mr. A, and show- cases the artist’s love of Paris, New York and www.uniqlo.cn Tokyo.

20 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EDITED BY DOMINIC NGAI / [email protected]

OVERHEARD

“Three years ago … proclaimed Reebok’s newest ambassador and ‘China’s hottest China didn’t have grandpa,’ Wang Deshun at a press conference for the brand’s Mainland any gyms! Now a relaunch in March. The 81-year-old is an unconventional yet inspired choice from the British sportswear lot of young people brand, and seems especially fitting considering the brand’s tagline: ‘Be work out. They More Human.’ Wang made headlines in 2015 after walking the runway during send me messages Beijing Fashion Week. Reebok hopes to capture China’s massive fitness market with 500 new Reebok Fithub stores set on Weibo saying: www.reebok.com.cn ‘Grandpa, seeing to open by 2020. you motivates me to exercise’”

SCENE&HEARD

POPCORN GENERAL STORE AWA HEALTH FLOATING CHINA WORLD MALL THERAPY Popcorn is ’s latest Kong streetwear import (following Madness China World Mall is the latest and most ambi- last year) and the store’s first Mainland tious Beijing opening of the year. There’s so Floating therapy is touted as a way to relax location. Stacked with brands like Stussy, much stuff, it’s ridiculous – but in a good way. and de-stress (unless you find small, dark Huffer and Vans, Popcorn is every skater’s There’s a Space Cycle. A new Laurent Falcon places stressful, that is). At this new Beijing dream. But there’s something for everyone. salon. A beautiful new hotel. More smoothie venture you can float weightlessly in a water Sneakerheads will love the neutral Asics and places than we can count. But there are also, tank filled with over 450 kilograms of Epsom classic New Balance kicks, while art lovers most importantly, killer terraces and jaw- salt – just as if it were the Dead Sea. The folks can pick up Frida Kahlo-printed hoodies dropping views. So grab a glass of wine at at AWA Health equate their therapy’s relax- by Ripndip. Accessories include colorful one of the mall’s approximately ten million ing effects to those of deep sleep, claiming it watches and socks, and Supreme bags for restaurants, and enjoy the view of the CCTV can reduce cortisol levels, blood pressure and days. Be quick because stock sells out quickly, Daily,Headquarters. 10am-late (individual store and restaurant hours Sessionsthe occurrence from RMB688; of migraines. Daily, 10am-10pm; 411, 4/F, Daily,we’re 10am-10pm; told. Taikoo Li South, S8, 1/F, 19 vary); China World Mall, 1 Jianguomen Wai Dajie, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号1层S8太古里 Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸商城 朝阳区光华路9号世贸天阶4层411号 (137 1618 2745)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 21 LIFE & STYLE | FASHION

YEEZY DOES IT

compiled by Victor Liu

Kanye’s iconic sneaker collection, Adidas Yeezy, has inspired a new generation of athletic, thick-soled kicks. Want to get the look without lining Mr. West’s pockets? Here are some alternatives.

22 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FASHION | LIFE & STYLE

FOR HIM

ADIDAS ORIGINALS Grey Tubular Nova PK High-Top Sneakers RMB894 www.global.adidas.com/originals

Y-3 Black Kyujo Low Sneakers RMB2,410 www.y-3.com

REEBOK CLASSICS White Low-Instapump Fury Sneakers RMB1,205 www.neighborhood.jp

FOR HER

ADIDAS ORIGINALS White Tubular Defiant Sneakers RMB757 www.global.adidas.com/originals

Y-3 Black Qasa Elle Sneakers RMB1,205 www.y-3.com

ADIDAS BY STELLA MCCARTNEY Grey Tubular Nova PK High-Top Sneakers RMB894 www.global.adidas.com/originals

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 23 LIFE & STYLE | INTERIORS

SMALL WONDER A Traditional Hutong Turned Micro-Hostel words by Dominique Wong, images by Wang Ziling

Project name: Micro Hutong Location: Building area: Design company: Xicheng, Beijing Architect: 35 square meters The brief: The teamZAO/standardarchitecture aimed to transform an Zhang Ke ultra-small hutong space into shared housing without comprising quality of life. Set in a traditional hutong, it was important for the 35-sqm house to showcase its courtyard and use transparent facades to maximize light and space.

24 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM INTERIORS | LIFE & STYLE

The courtyard, a central element of the hutong, shows the visual relationship between guest rooms, which can be seen jutting out onto the courtyard space and the main living area.

Each of the five staggered rooms includes A semi-public space used by both guests floor-to-ceiling windows, affording pleasant and members of the community, the main views and plenty of natural light. living area acts as a transitional area from the hostel’s private rooms to the street.

The street-facing exterior shows a tradi- tional hutong with touches of modernity.

Concrete mixed with Chinese ink makes up the main body of the structure while three skylight windows open up to provide ventilation.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 25 LIFE & STYLE | TRAVEL

ALL ABOARD THE PHUKET EXPRESS Think Thailand Is Too Far Away for a Weekend Getaway? Think Again

If we’re honest, we’d never considered long Phuket for a quick getaway. It we arrive feeling well-rested – at both ends of the trip. has beautiful beaches, relaxed vibes and a tropical climate – so we’d But even if you fly economy, there are a number of other ways in always assumed that it was a way from Beijing. which Phuket is more convenient than you might have imagined: Well, Thai Airways wants to prove us – and you – wrong. The On-the-spot visas are a breeze and there are a bunch of great hotels carrier’s new direct route, nicknamed the Phuket Express, takes on the northwest side of the island, right by the airport. Beijingers to the Thai Island in just over five and a half hours. And We’re hosted by the excellent Marriott Resort and Spa, which the timing of the flights is particularly well-suited to those aiming enjoys access to a placid stretch of Nai Yang Beach. (Tip: if your for a short break: Arriving in Phuket by 10am buys you a whole day, hotel doesn’t have direct access to a beach, you’re probably doing and leaving after 10pm buys you another. somethingThat’s wrong.) Beijing And after a few blissful days eating curry and In fact, if you’re really strapped for time, you could even leave drinking cocktails on the beach, we’re back – and feeling remarkably Thursday night and be back in the office by Monday morning. So, Thatfresh’s Beijing– at ’s flights weretowers provided on byMonday Thai Airlines; morning. accommodation Told you so. was with Thai Airlines inviting us to join the route’s maiden flight, that’s provided by Marriott Resort and Spa, Nai Yang Beach. For more details on the exactly what we do. And you know what? It’s totally possible. Phuket Express visit www.thaiairways.com. A quick disclaimer: Traveling business class certainly helps. The super-comfortable seats recline into a fully flat beds, meaning that

26 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM ADVERTORIAL | LIFE & STYLE LINVINA BRIDAL Customized Gowns, Without the Hefty Price Tag

Back in 2010, the founder of Linvina Bridal, tones. Wu“Getting Lin, couldn’t an evening find a dress bridesmaid from overseas dress for “I like the [curve-enhancing] fishtail shape her friend’s wedding. because I think it enhances our natural shapes. There’s no reason to hide them,” Wu was really expensive, yet most of them were says. actually made in China,” she says. Apart from wedding dresses, Linvina also So, Wu created her own brand, making cus- creates prom, ball gowns and, more recently, tomized wedding and evening dresses at af- suits. Wu relishes the responsibility of helping fordable prices for people around the world. to create memories for shoppers. “I love hear- “Our prices are really low compared to ing feedback from my customers that we’ve overseas, around half the price,” the manager made their dream dresses.” and designer says. “I really love designing It’s not all fairytale wonder though. Despite and have been dreaming about making pretty the timelessness of formalwear, Linvina is still dresses my whole life.” subject to individuals’ aesthetic tastes, Wu What began as an online store turned into a says. “People’s style preferences change so brick-and-mortar shop last year, the founder fast, so we have to keep learning.” tells us: “Online customers from Beijing However, one thing remains constant. “I wanted to meet me in person and talk about hope we can always provide high quality yet designs, so I started the shop in Beijing. Now Linvinaaffordable Bridal; customized Tue-Sun, 10.30am-7.30pm dresses,” Wu says. I have a design team and around 20 employ- (appointments in advance preferred); dresses ees.” RMB2,500-12,000 (evening dress sale price from Linvina specializes in classic, elegant and RMB300); Kuntai International , 21/F, room form-flattering designs, with shapes including 2107, Yi 12 Chaowai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街 乙12号21层2107 (www.linvinabridal.com; 185 1077 A-line, fishtail and sweetheart necklines. High 5296; WeChat ID: 532667243) quality satin and chiffon materials are avail- able in an array of candy-colored and neutral

朝阳店 STORE TEL: (010) 65016249 \ 65931220 东湖别墅店 EAST LAKE STORE West Gate of Chaoyang Park, TEL: (010) 84511168 Chaoyang District B1 of East Lake Villa Club, Dongcheng 朝阳区农展南路 1 号(朝阳公园西门南 60 米) District 东城区东湖别墅东湖俱乐部地下一层 三里屯店 SANLITUN STORE TEL: (010) 64616928 \ 64635156 观湖国际店 GREEN LAKE STORE No.6 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang TEL: (010) 59283525 \ 59283723 District A1 Building of GreenLake International 朝阳区三里屯北小街 6 号 Apartment, Chaoyang District 朝阳区观湖国际甲 1 号楼 芳草地店 STORE TEL: (010) 85630626 新城国际店 CENTRAL PARK STORE No.4 Ritan North Road, Chaoyang TEL: (010) 65336791 District No. 101, Tower 17, Central Park, NO.6, 朝阳区日坛北路 4 号 Chaowai Ave. Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝外大街 6 号新城国际 17 栋 101 香江花园店 RIVERA GARDEN STORE TEL: (010) 84701557 \ 84704095 海晟店 SEASONS PARK STORE No.1 Laiguangying East Road, TEL: (010) 64175815 Chaoyang District First floor of Dongchengyishu No.6, 朝阳区来广营东路 1 号 Shizipo Street, Chaoyang District 朝阳区十字坡街 6 号东城逸墅 1 层 建外 SOHO 店 JIANWAI SOHO STORE TEL: (010) 58692326 \ 58692253 逸盛阁店 EAST AVENUE STORE 0413 of Building 4, Jianwai SOHO, TEL: (010) 64602658 No. 39 Middle Dongsanhuan Road, Room 108 ,East Avenue, No.10 Chaoyang District Xindong Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环中路 39 号建外 SOHO4 号 朝阳区新东路 10 号逸盛阁 108 室 楼 0413

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 27 ARTS

FAKE IT TILL YOU MAKE IT Nathan Fake talks writer’s block and 90s synthesizers, p32

Douban's Music Festival Author from Down Under Pick of Six p34 p38 p39 DRUMROLL - 29

MAY 2017 | | MAY WWW.THATSMAGS.COM details) Fri May 19; Price TBD; Lantern (see Listings for sense to name all 25 – that’s just insane. My sense to a design coming from decisions were largest standpoint. hour an 50 tracks can play hear you So we or record Is this your turntables. three on average? just your and that about 45 per hour, actually It was the peak of the 90s when back during was on peaking. I’m still fast was culture vinyl now a lil’ slower probably though the decks, is much slower of techno because the tempo I Now longer. take so transitions these days, turnta [CD or CDJs [DJ software] use Traktor And I focus per hour. tracks bles], with fewer But every now. of dynamic kind on a different set out of will get a vinyl you once in a while me. what’s the the game, in 20-plus years After you had told wish someone you thing one at the start? give I would experience my Nothing, but from kingdom and own Build your this advice: the start. from sit in the king’s chair - -

series. Is Developer Archive Developer of your ment the archive? left in anything there ongoing personal pro of course – it’s my Yes, something new coming soon. have ject. I always track using decide against did you Why ? Was Form album In Pure your on names its form? that part of purifying make It didn't No, it’s because it’s 25 tracks! guarantee a crowd reaction? a crowd guarantee gets a good reaction, stuff always Most of my from anything I play when say so I would Modularz! to track favorite us your tell you can Then out on Modularz? come have I think that is an track. a favorite have I don’t – there producer any impossible question for ones! great so many are install the eighth released recently You are hip-hop producers more influential to to influential more hip-hop producers are ones? techno than you in other find inspiration to Because I prefer other so many places. I think that being into identity. own me my types of music helps give [When I’m not in] the studio or performing, or house music. almost no techno to I listen I’m work, producers hip-hop When I watch it takes the process by fascinated much more and the flow their sound – the steps create to of working. way my like is much more will know that you song one Is there

making beats vs techno producers.” Why Why producers.” techno beats vs making by hip-hop heads working in the studio in hip-hop heads working by making techno, you’re “way more inspired inspired more “way you’re techno, making You recently tweeted that when you’re you’re that when tweeted recently You and my family of contributing artists. family and my the search lists. And there you will find me you lists. And there the search If you search my label it’s number one on all my search If you important, and is attached to everything I do. important, everything and is attached to No, because my label [Modularz] is just as No, because my to search – does that ever worry you? worry – does that ever search to name Developer makes you quite difficult quite you makes Developer name That’s not what Google says. In fact, In the says. That’s Google not what None. I am the only Developer! None. I am the only or real estate developer. estate or real why? Software developer, web developer developer web developer, Software why? of developer, which would you be and be and you would which of developer, If you had to be one of the following types of the following be one had to If you since the start of the 1990s. Techno and house music have been in LA and house music have Techno or popular dance magazine or website says. says. or website popular dance magazine or I would never believe anything a commercial a commercial anything believe never I would like, already do that? already like, West Coast of America.” But didn’t you, you, But didn’t of America.” Coast West the year that “house and techno took the took techno that “house and the year recently declared that 2016 was 2016 was that declared MixMag recently at Lantern. caught up with him ahead of this month’s set up with him ahead of this month’s caught figures in LA’s electronic music scene. We music scene. We electronic in LA’s figures Developer is one of the most important Developer distributors on America’s West Coast, West on America’s distributors Co-founder of the first techno record record of the first techno Co-founder interview by Oscar Holland by interview Won’t Tech-no for an Answer an for Tech-no Won’t DEVELOPER COLLAGE

WHAT’S NEW CAUSING A SCENE 100 million Asura

That’s the budget, in USD, of , a fantasy adventure film based on a story from Buddhist mythology. Slated for a 2018 release and directed by veteran Hollywood stunt coordinator Peng Zhang, it will be China’s most expensive film to date. While many American Grim blockbusters break the USD100 million One of the best new albums to come out of The Mermaid mark, few Chinese movies do (Stephen China in 2017 so far, is the debut release Chow’s smash hit , for by math rock duo Foster Parents. The songs example, was made on a USD60 million aren’t grim at all; they’re nimble and technically The Great budget). And although money doesn’t impressive with an undertone of nostalgia (but Wall necessarily buy quality (see: not the kind that takes itself too seriously). Find - ), it’s a chance for the film to play it at fosterparentsmusic.bandcamp.com. - with the mind-boggling stunts, fantasti cal CGI, extravagant costumes and cut ting-edge production techniques fitting of a movie with the tagline “The realm of desire, the beginning of a legend.”

Hao

Notes of a Crocodile Last month’s talks between Donald Published in English for the first time, Trump and Xi Jinping may have an is the seminal novel by Qiu Miaojin, a unexpected benefit for China-based cult icon revered for her writing on queer - - film buffs. Several think-tank culture and relationships. A postmodern mix Notes of a Crocodile analysts believe that China will in of diary entries, vignettes and satirical sto - crease its quota on imported films in ries, won the China Times 2017-18. The quota has been official Literature Award when it was first published in ly set at 34 films since 2012, though 1995. Find it on amazon.com for Kindle. 38 foreign films made it through last year.

Bu Hao

Power Rangers Chinese film giant Alibaba Pictures- Group suffered a staggering RMB971Soul This reboot of 90s TV show tells Matemillion lossFerry in 2016. Man The group re - the story of six rebellious teens with the power leased homegrown films like to morph into masked – or rather, helmeted – and Star Trek Beyond, as well as helm superheroes. The Rangers are portrayed by a ing the China releases of Hollywood cast of young and relatively unknown actors, films like . But its while Bryan Cranston plays their mentor Zordon, net losses were still nearly double and Elizabeth Banks recreates iconic villain Rita those of the previous year. Repulsa. In theaters May 12.

30 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EDITED BY ERICA MARTIN / bjeditor@ urbanatomy.com

‘No Time 2 Love’ (2006) ‘The Sky Was Pink ‘She Has All Kinds of DJ Marky & Bungle (Holden Remix)’ (2004) Temperatures’ (2016) Nathan Fake Soda Plains Sped-up funk gives way to speaker-shattering bass, A nine-minute electronic odys- A classical-rave banger mixing before the two come together sey that travels through glitchy strings, claps and kicks under in a frantic, uplifting slice of crescendos, bass-drum kicks grime-infused layers – menac- liquid DnB. and fuzzy techno. ing yet thrilling.

‘Chimeras’ (2006) ‘Chemicals’ (1998) ‘No Replay’ (2015) Tim Hecker The Notwist Stolen A haunting, soul-crushing Minimalist 90s indie-pop – with The Chengdu rockers traverse production that slowly swells the killer refrain ‘you are no an atmospheric soundscape be- into darkness. So mesmerizing good’ – that would’ve sounded fore sinister bass and punchy and bleak that it’s oddly enliv- right at home on the Cruel guitar build up towards a ening. Intentions soundtrack. frenzied finale.

Our favorite tracks from artists playing in Beijing this month. For full nightlife and gig listings, visit www.thatsmags.com

GIG POSTER OF THE MONTH

FYI, Totorro isn’t a rotund Studio Ghibli character (that’s Totoro), but rather an experimental rock band from Rennes, France. It seems they're equally loveable though, with the math-rockers described by reviewers as “fun,”Come “uplifting” to Mexico and “clever.” The- band’s China tour is bound to be full of gems from sophomore album , which was re Thuleased May last 11, year.8.30-10pm; RMB100 (presale), RMB150 (door); Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details); tickets via yoopay.cn

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 31 ARTS | MUSIC

here are many remedies for writer’s block. - tion, he seems unconvinced. Roald Dahl used to climb into a sleeping bag to “It doesn’t sound super experimental to my ears. channel his inner child. Victor Hugo would in I think it’s got pretty straight-up melodies and struct his valet to hide his clothes, leaving him chords, so I guess it depends on who’s reviewing - no choice but to stay inside and write. Dan Brown it,” he says, admitting that he’s paid little attention hangs upside down in gravity boots. to the critical reception thus far. “I suppose my pre For British musician Nathan Fake, however, the vious albums have been more ‘dance floor,’ but I’ve cure was more practical – though no less unusual: also always been on the other side of [electronic He bought a largely forgotten synthesizer from the Drowningmusic] too. in a Sea of Love Providence mid-90s. “I guess if you compare my first album [2006’s The instrument in question, the Korg Prophecy, ] to , there’s- was a pioneering synth that gave players control probably quite a big difference,” he reflects. “But I over a range of effects, such as distortion and - feel that, as I’ve goneProvidence on, I’ve just got more confi reverb. Celebrated upon its release in 1995, the dent. I’m also more relaxed about what my albums three-octave keyboard cost GBP1,000 (approxi sound like. With I didn’t think too much mately RMB15,000 in today’s money). In 2017, about style. I made those tracks really naturally, however, it sounds distinctly dated. which is the opposite of what I did on my first “I saw one on eBay and remembered reading album. about them when they first came out,” Fake recalls. “I guess I just got better at producing as well,” he “At the time, I remember thinking that it must be adds with a laugh. - good, but not being able to afford one. It cost loads.” Fake’s live shows have evolved in turn. Having stalled for four years after his third Reviews of his most recent performances – espe- album, the British producer suddenly found new cially at non-club venues, like London’s Institute inspiration.Providence Pushing the instrument to its technical for Contemporary Arts – speak of a more hyp- limits, Fake decided to build a whole record around- notic, low-tempo affair. The British musician it. was complete within six months. The has added visuals to his show, and he’ll be ac deep, soaring sounds of a Korg Prophecy are wo companied in China by his “friend Dan,” who will ven conspicuously through each song. Providenceoperate them. “I’ve always liked using instruments that are “People dance as well,” Fake says of his post- quite low-end and have narrow boundaries,” he shows. “It depends on what kind of explains. “Maybe some people are into having a venue it is. There are no four-four kick drums, but blank canvas, but I like the challenge of making depending on how adventurous your audience is, music from something that I wouldn’t usually think and where you’re playing, you can get into it. For of. If there were no boundaries, it might be a bit- me, it’s really danceable. intimidating. “The show is pretty improvised in terms of track “But I didn’t really plan on making a whole al arrangements and the direction that the set takes. bum with [the Korg],” he admits. “It’s very outdated Then Dan just follows it with the live visuals. It’s – a very awkward synth. At the time it was quite always quite all over the place – but in a good way ground-breaking, because it allowed this physical I hope.” modeling [of sound]. But I wouldn’t recommend it Fake promises to “play a few old tracks,” but - to anyone. he’s an artist who appears more concerned with “Actually, maybe I would. I dunno. It depends,” progression than retrospection. This poses some he muses. thing of a problem for someone who suffers from Most producersProvidence would struggle to transform writer’s block. the Korg Prophecy into something as relevant and “Once you’ve had it, you worry more about it,” contemporary as . The record sees Fake he says. “I think everyone has it – every musician distort and manipulate the synth into undulating or artist gets it from time to time. And I’ve always cacophonies Providenceof noise, which he then feeds through had it. his distinct brand of progressive techno. “But I have actually been making quite a lot of But while still displays Fake’s unique music at the moment, which is crazy because I have musical sensibilities (he describes his sound as been on tour solidly since the album came out. “strong melodies with an overall feeling that’s sort Yesterday I made a track. And about a month ago, I of meandering”), many critics saw the album as made an EP’s worth of stuff. It’s been really good – a significant departure. Evidently influenced by - really inspiring. I’m in a good place.” How Nathan Fake artists like Orbital and Aphex Twin, the producer And, should the creativity run dry, he can sacrificed the dream-like quality of his earlier mu always just find a new instrument on eBay, right? Beat Writer’s Block sic,The replacing Skinny it with something altogether more- “Well, I’m mindful of the fact that I don’t want to challenging. repeat myself [on my next album] and just be like With a Mid-90s describedResident the Advisoralbum as “more sub- ‘oh, I’ll find another crap synth and make another stantial, and certainly more experimental” than album,” he jokes. “That might be a bit obvious. But Synthesizer his previous work. called his re if I do happen upon something new, I might have by Oscar Holland invented sound “more urgent and aggressive.” But- Thusome May fun 18; with Price it.” TBD; Dada (see Listings for details) when I venture to Fake that his new album’s critical success may be due, in part, to this experimenta

32 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM MUSIC | ARTS

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 33 ARTS | MUSIC

ONLY REAL THE BEST OF DOUBAN’S WETWARE FESTIVAL MAN by Oscar Holland and Dominique Wong INSTRUMENTS,

Recent years have been difficult for traditional stand-in-a-field- COLD CAVE style festivals. Those that weren’t canceled were relocated miles outside the city. So music networking site Douban is taking a safer route with its Wetware Festival, which is being held indoors at Cold Cave isn’t a hidden venue for Wetware Festival, but two local venues – Tango and School Bar. You can check the whole rather a gothwave, synth-pop, Joy Division-inspired one- four-day lineup over at thatsmags.com, but here’s our pick of the man act founded by former Give Up the Ghost frontman best artists coming through. Wesley Eisold. Considering Cold Cave’s intense yet oddly exultant sound, the live show should DUCK FIGHT beSun a May good’un. 21, 10.40- 11.40pm; GOOSE Main Stage

We hardly need to tell you that Shanghai band Duck Fight Goose is ‘a bit out there’ – just look Sports at that band photo. The critically acclaimed quartet plays a wide gamut fromClub indie Zvkvnft rock (on debut album ) to a more futuristic and electronics-heavy sound, as heard on sophomoreSat May 20, 5-6pm;album Main Stage .

A BIT... OUT THERE

HOWIE LEE

-

We’ve been calling Howie Lee the most ex Mùciting Chè thing Shān in Chū Chinese electronic music for - years. And with the release of 2016 album , he’s lived up to the prom ise. Sure, he’s a regular at Dada, but let’s see whatThu May he 18,can 9-9.40pm;do on the Mainbig stage. Stage RP BOO TIM HECKER RP Boo is a former footwork dancer who helped create a genre. He’s considered by many to have created the first tunes to be labeled as ‘Chicago Musician and ‘sound Juke.’ But enough with the genres. All you need artist’ Tim Hecker is one to know is that of the most important he’ll be dropping names in ambient music. - fast, syncopated His live show is, like his beats with as recorded work, a mes many nods merizing wall of sound to hip-hop as that takes audiences to - house.Sun May 21, deep places. Get ready 10-11pm; for some intense sway Second Stage ing.Sun May 21, 4-5pm; Main Stage

STRICTLY ELECTRONIC 34 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM MUSIC | ARTS

ONLY REAL INSTRUMENTS,MAN CASS MCCOMBS BAND

The titular Cass McCombs’ bio merely states he is “an American musician, best known for releasing a number of albums since 2002.” This is categorically true, though we’d hasten to add that McCombs spins reflective folk rock melodies with such sincerity that comparisons to Elliott SmithThu May are 18, common. 9-9.40pm; Main Stage LOW

STOLEN - True to name, Low specialize in - slow tempos and bare arrange From playing student punk covers to ments. Known for their outstand opening for Beijing indie institutions ing live performances, the indie- P.K. 14, ChengduLoop rock band Stolen rock band have been performing have come a long way. The band’s for more than 20 years – which debut album was released amid seems crazy until you realize that intense buzz in 2015. Combining frontman Alan Sparhawk has two- sinister vocals and frenetic children with wife Mimi Parker, instrumentation, Stolen have a darkly intriguing who is Low’s drummer and sec soundSat May – 20,for 9.20-10pm;rock and electronic Main Stage dance lovers alike. ondThu Mayvocalist. 18, 10-11pm; Main Stage

ACCESSIBLE KODE9

- - Kode9 seems to have a fondness for China, hav ing named a track ‘Xingfu Lu’ (af ter a Shanghai street) and played here multiple times in recent years. If you caught any of those shows, you’ll know to expect back-to-back genre-skipping bass stonkers from the man behind Sunpioneering May 21, label 8.20-9.10pm; Hyperdub. Main Stage NIGHTMARES ON WAX ACTRESS

Despite having a name that sounds like a bad sleepover at British electronic musician Darren Madame Tussauds, Nightmares on Cunningham, better known as Actress,AZD - Wax (the stage name of DJ George arrives in Beijing just weeks after the Evelyn) makes laid-back hip- release of his fifth studio album (pro hop-inspired instrumentals. Get nounced ‘Azid,’ btw). It’s both clubbier ready for feel-good vibes, reggae- and more experimental than his recent inspired jams, lazy bass lines and work, so get ready to either dance or rock more from Evelyn’s expansive aroundSat May looking20, 8.10-9pm; pensive. Main Stage recordMay 19, collection. 9.15-10.15pm; Second Stage

STRICTLY ELECTRONIC WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 35 ARTS | MUSIC

“Music can be transported from one world to another – one which we’re learning to create”

THEY’RE For almost a decade, Maybe Mars has been helping With a sound that marries psychedelia with heady to define indie in China. And just months ahead of its hooks inspired by Maybe Mars stalwarts, the trio have milestone 10th anniversary, the Beijing-based label is succeeded in their goal of “trying to make a specific OUT OF still at it. world with every song.” The voracity of new signings Gate to Otherside is a “The three of us enjoy [the idea that] music can be fitting tribute to a decade in the game. It’s a role that - transported from one world to another – one which THE GATE the trio’s bassist, Alex Turner, takes seriously. - we’re learning to create,” Turner adds. “Maybe Mars has developed a crowd and a sensibil Already live favorites in Beijing’sDragon Bus underground Terminal Meet Maybe Mars’ ity about music that we’ve all inherited to some de scene, the group hope to reach new fans with the gree,” he says, citing labelmates Ourself Beside Me and release of their debut disc, . The Latest Signings, Gate Snapline as influences. “[The label] is wonderful in that album was recorded and produced by co-founder of they don’t push music, plans or commercial activities The Brian Jonestown Massacre, Ricky Maymi, who to Otherside on its artists. There’s a very simple commonality, and will also produce the sophomore disc for labelmates everything flows naturally from that.” - Birdstriking. by Andrew Chin Although comprised of veterans of Beijing’s music “Recording was quick and concentrated, which scene (Turner and vocalist-guitarist Sun Heting previ didn’t allow for hesitation or regret,” Turner says. - ously played in Carsick Cars; drummer Jiang Mengyang “When we did come to a crossroads, Ricky was there is a member of riot grrrl punks Free Sex Shop), Turner to guide us – ‘Left sucks, you should go right.’ His ex describes Gate to Otherside’s formation as “chance.” perience with songwriting and understanding of what “Jiang and Sun happened to be jamming for fun and kind of sound international listeners will respond to they liked what they made, but needed a bassist,” he was invaluable.” explains. “Moreover, when we started playing, we each- To support the disc, the group is embarking on their had the feeling that this was something we should do first national tour, which stops off at School Bar this – that it was natural. This ‘ought’ comes from the en month. Turner admits, “We have some work to do vironment of the Beijing music scene, and because we before the tour, but if we’re nervous, it’s because we’re were ready to start making music.” young and excited. I bet the crowds are too.” While Turner admits that “the scene has declined,” And having only just released their debut album, the he’s hopeful that Gate to Otherside, along with other band is already eyeing a second disc. “It’s already been Beijing upstarts like Lonely Leary, Future Orients and a year since we finished recording, but in that time Dice, will turn things around. we’ve collected a lot of new material,” Turner says. “There’s a gap open to young new bands, especially “We’ll use the summer after the tour to put it since crowds seem to be growing,” he says. “Kids are Satthrough May 13; the Price grinder TBD; and School make Bar our (see next Listings piece.” for details) looking for something right now. When they find it, everyone will know.”

36 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM MUSIC | ARTS THE NOTWIST Endless Invention by Erica Martin

Every band has their own story. But if you their sound. An elegant, Neon emotionalGolden record ergy and impulsive experimentation onstage. tracked the progress of all the world’s best that is regularly named one of the best indie (A YouTube recording of their performance indie groups, some patterns might start to albums of all time, veers from at 2014’s Pitchfork Music Festival in Paris is a emerge. First comes the period of raw energy spare folk guitar andClose poppy to the hooks Glass to hints of prime example.) - and potential, then the acclaimed breakout the droning electronica that the band would Despite touring extensively throughout album, followed by a change in the band’s explore in 2014’s . It’s all their career, The Notwist have never per sound (usually by introducing electronic flavored with the nostalgic melancholy of formed in China prior to this month’s tour. elements) and accusations of selling out. By Acher’s lyrics. “I’ve been very interested in China for their seventh, eighth or ninth album, the - “There’s a certain element a long time, but never really thought there band either makes a high profile comeback would be a possibility to tour, so I’m very with a new fan base, or they fade into ob - of confusion in every song happy it’s happening now,” Acher says before scurity. complimenting Chengdu rockers Hiperson The 27-year story of German indie rock and Beijing psych-rock band Chui Wan, whom ers The Notwist shares some of these – something that doesn’t he saw on tour in Munich. tropes (a breakout album, a move from rock seem to fit at first” In addition to their expansive, genre- toward electronica), but thanks to a knack - crossing music, The Notwist are known for for reinvention and a virtuosic musicality, the unique lyricism of Acher, who writes they’ve maintained a creative edge, solidify and sings in English rather than his mother ing their status as perennial underground - “We always try to keep a certain edge to tongue. His simple, unusual word choice and favorites. everything we do, which doesn’t mean it syntax give the songs a surreal beauty. Starting out in 1989 with a noise rock al - has to sound distorted or loud,” says Acher. “As English is spoken all over the world by bum that vocalist and guitarist Markus Acher “There’s just a certain element of confusion non-native speakers, there are many forms of says was influenced by “American post-hard in every song. Something that doesn’t seem English that are very interesting and poetic,” core bands like Moving Targets, Dinosaur Jr., - to fit at first.” This is an apt description of the Acher says. “I think it’s a limitation, but also and Pitchfork,” The Notwist went on to make hard-to-place appeal that carries through the an opportunity to write in a language that’s a name for themselves by unrolling a dramat Superheroes,band’s music. Ghostvillains + Stuff - not your native one,” he continues. “I like ically new aesthetic with each passing album. The Notwist’s most recent album, 2016’s - it somehow. It’s abstract and emotional – a “With every record, the influencesNeon Golden got more… , was re Maypoem 14, right 9pm; away.” RMB120 (presale), RMB150 (door); experimental,” he says. corded live, complete with crackly audial im Yugong Yishan (see Listings for venue details; go to The band’s fifth album, , which perfections and audience cheers. Releasing- a newnoise.taobao.com for tickets) dropped in 2002, is their iconic breakout live album was a natural step for the band, as work, and it came after several overhauls to their concerts are defined by an earnest en

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 37 ARTS | BOOKS

RETURN FROM DOWN UNDER

As Tom Keneally prepares to visit Beijing for Australian Writers’ Week, Erica Martin course Oskar Schindler, would suggest otherwise. “History gives you a line to follow, and once time speaks to the acclaimed author about his has passed, you know what the ironies are,” he says. early experiences in China and his fruitful “So you can apply those ironies in a way that the contemporary situation doesn’t allow you to.” career in fiction. As is inevitably the case with historical fiction, Keneally’s personal experience seems removed from his writing fodder. But he still finds common ground with his characters. The fact that his great We anticipated plenty of good stories from our uncle was sent to Australia as a political prisoner conversation with esteemed novelist Tom Keneally. colors much of his writing on Australian history. But we never would have guessed that a first- His father’s stint fighting the Third Reich in North hand account of the earliest moments in Chinese- Africa (during which time he sent the then 8-year- Australian diplomacy would be among them. old Keneally “bits of pistols, a holster and all the “No matter what we In addition to penning dozens of novels, Schindler’s List stuff that was in the movies”) made the war more including the book that inspired the Academy for Schindler’s Ark real for him when reflecting on it decades later humans do, advance Award-winning film , Keneally toured Schindler’s List , the source material for the film China in 1980 as part of an early cultural exchange . program. or step back, it’s all “No matter what we humans do, advance or “We had an Australian politician go to China step back, it’s all bloody complicated, and there even earlier than Nixon,” Keneally tells us. “By the bloody complicated, are moral and physical casualties,” Keneally says of late 1970s, an Australia-China council had been the diverse characters who’ve inspired his writing appointed to advise Australia on the best way to and there are - through the years. “We are an amazing study.” exchange ideas. I was a member of that.” Searching for Schindler - Keneally returned to the subject of Schindler This was against the backdrop of China’s eco moral and physical more recently in , a 2008 nomic opening, and only a few years after the dis memoir about his extraordinary friendship with mantling of ‘White Australia’ policies that severely casualties. We are an Poldek Pfefferberg, a Holocaust survivor and one restricted Chinese migration to Australia. The two - of the real-life “Schindler Jews.” Keneally met nations had had very little exposure to one another, amazing study” Pfefferberg by chance in the latter’s leather goods making Keneally one of the first Australians to wit store in LA in 1980, which eventually led to the ness China on the precipice of rapid development. novel. Book tours and literary events have brought - His current project, meanwhile, isn’t exactly him back to China over the years (he’s a friend historical fiction – and it’s bound to feel more per of Michelle Garnaut, founder of the Shanghai sonal than some of his other work. The forthcoming and Beijing International Literary Festivals), and novel will interweave the life of an 80-year-old man he appears thrilled about his upcoming trip for in present-day Australia with a man who lived in Australian Writers’ Week. “I’m 81, and there will the same place 42,000 years ago. Keneally drew eventually be a last tour of China,” he says with a inspiration from an ancient skeleton discovered in cackle. “If this is it, I’m certainly looking forward to Australia – and from his own experience of aging. visiting all the old places.” “The book is about the eternal problem of dying,” Given that Keneally’s genre of choice – for almost Keneally says, “but that doesn’t mean I’m putting all of his 36 novels – has been historical fiction, it my hand up to the gods and saying, ‘Please knock seems only fitting that he has has lived through a me over now!’ I want to get my tour of China in major historic moment or two. Tomfirst.” Keneally: The story behind Schindler’s List; May 12, “It’s probably because I’m a bad plotter,” he jokes, Blood Red, Sister Rose - 7-8.30pm; RMB50 (includes a drink); The Bookworm (see though the acclaimThe Playmaker for his books about Joan of Arc Listings for details) ( ), Australia’s history as a pe nal colony ( , among others), and of

38 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM PICK OF SIX | ARTS Yu Ying, ‘Carpe Diem’ Through Jun 4; Ying Space

Group, ‘An Overlapped and Rotative Identity’ Wang Yingying, ‘Touch’ Through Jun 11, EGG Gallery Through May 7; Space Station

MyeongBeom Kim, ‘Amphibology’ Through Jun 17; Galerie Paris-Beijing

Jean-Charles Blais and Wang Keping, ‘Silhouettes’ Through Jun 3; Hadrien de Montferrand Gallery

For gallery information visit www.thatsmags.com/beijing

Wang Yuping, ‘Jingshan Hill St.’ Through May 13; Tang Contemporary Art Beijing

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 39 CITY SCENES DJ inspired by a recent viewing of Interstellar harnesses the combined power of neon lights and sick beats to take the 6th birthday party of Tianjin’s Le Procope Lounge to another dimension.

Man assumes hutong-toilet squatting position to burn optimal calories at Wine bar staff say, “hey, you guys gonna buy some wine, or just stand there Jing-A’s Kegxercise event. posing?” at Catherine de France’s Retro Pastel stylist competition.

The patron saint of dessert graces Beijing with a visit at Migas’ “La Feria” Gyms in 2017 often serve dual purposes as both training centers and novelty brunch launch. legging showrooms. Trainyard Gym at Hotel Jen Beijing is no exception.

40 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM

Cangzhou

Words by Oscar Holland, Noelle Mateer and Dominique Wong Graphics by Iris Wang Photos by Victor Liu Words by Oscar Holland, Noelle Mateer and Dominique Wong Graphics by Iris Wang Photos by Victor Liu How Hebei Province is Building a Megacity Next Door PULATION PO : 1 I 10 -J M IN I J L - BEIJING L I G MIL O N N I 21.5 J 15.5MIL HEBEI, YOUR NEW TIANJIN BEST FRIEND? MIL HEIBEI73 t feeds us. It supports us. It surrounds us. If you look at a map, Hebei envelops Beijing like a hug. (Or a choke, given that the many of China’s most pol- for Jing-Jin-Ji transport infrastructure – roads and railways luted cities are in the province.) Hebei supplies us that would turn the region into one fearsome megalopolis. city dwellers with wheat, energy and valuable natural re- Last December, Beijing completed construction of the 7th sources. Ring Road (only 38 of its 940 kilometers are in Beijing – the But how well do we really know our neighbor? Its borders rest are in Hebei). stretch south to Shandong and north to Inner Mongolia, But wait, there’s more. If there’s one thing China loves, and its topography is as diverse as its map would suggest. it’s a big ol’ project with a fancy name. And Hebei is a There are mountains, beaches, lakes. Ask a Beijinger what playground for development initiatives. There’s the Bohai they know of Hebei, though, and they might harp on cli- Economic Rim, an industrial corridor stretching from ches – The Great Wall, farmland. Ask Google about Hebei, Shandong to Liaoning via Hebei’s capital Shijiazhuang. and its suggested related search term is “pollution.” There’s the Green Necklace, a project to turn Hebei into And yet, Hebei is more important now than ever before an eco-friendly zone and reduce smog. And now, there’s (with the notable exception of the 4th century B.C., when Xiongan New Area, an ambitious push to turn three rural it was the seat of power for the ancient Yan state). It all counties into the ‘next Shenzhen’ (see overleaf for more). started with the adorably named Jing-Jin-Ji: a gargantuan In sum, there’s a lot of stuff happening. But what on economic corridor linking Beijing (Jing), Tianjin (Jin) and earth does it all mean? How does anyone know their Special Hebei (formerly known as ‘Ji’). The developing mega- Economic Zones and their New Areas from their Economic- region has sparked intermittent showers of investment in Technological Development Areas? Who lives in these places, recent years. But things really kicked off in 2016, when the and what do they think of all this kerfuffle? Chinese Government announced RMB247 billion in funding We went to rural Hebei to find out.

MUST-TRY HEBEI DISHES Hebei cuisine isn’t subtle. China Daily calls it “strong and savory.” Wikitravel calls it “meat-heavy.” These aren’t the terms we typically associate with gourmet dining experiences. But hey – we’ll let you judge for yourself. Imperial Baiyangdian Fish Palace Cuisine One of Hebei’s biggest tourist attractions, Baiyangdian Lake has This isn’t a dish, but rather been providing Hebeiren with fresh fish for centuries. Fish from the a bunch of dishes, served on 365-square-kilometer lake are served all across southern Hebei, often high-end plateware, all at once, grilled and doused in sweet brown sauce. Baiyangdian Lake also sits just by your leagues of servants, beside one of China’s most polluted cities. Try not to think about that. because you are the emperor of China. Chengde’s cuisine has been shaped by the emperors Donkey Burgers over the centuries as they Lurou huoshao (donkey burgers) are in such demand that the govern- visited the city’s Mountain ment of Burkina Faso had to ban donkey exports to China, as the coun- Resort, but even us plebs can try was running low on asses. Although demand has more to do with chow down on imperial dishes Chinese market for a gelatin made from donkey hides (it’s supposed to – like Qinglong fish, or chicken increase virility, longevity and more), donkey meat is still a specialty in wrapped in lotus leaves – at Hebei, particularly between two slices of flaky bread. restaurants around the city.

44 XIE JUN (1970-) Baoding-born Xie is a chess grandmaster, with the distinction of being only the second woman to serve two reigns as Women’s World Chess Champion: from 1991 to 1996, and 1999 to 2001. Xie is known for her success and sunny disposition, as well as being the first of a number of strong Chinese women chess players. JIANG WEN (1963-) Triple-threat (actor-screenwriter- director) Jiang was born in Tangshan but moved to Beijing when he was DONG CUNRUI (1929- ten years old, avoiding the deadly 1948) 1976 Tangshan earthquake. Jiang is A soldier in the People’s Liberation known for his roles in Zhang Yimou’s Army during the , Red Sorghum, Let the Bullets Fly Dong is famous for blowing himself (which he directed) and Rogue One: A up while destroying a Star Wars Story. bunker which guarded a key bridge in Longhua County, Hebei (Dong himself was from nearby ). Iconic images depict Dong moments before detonating the explosion, thus feeding into the NOTABLE soldier’s ‘hero’ status. HEIBEIREN

The number of prefec- ture-level cities in Hebei. Their populations range ESSENTIAL HEBEI GLOSSARY in size from 3 million (Qinhuangdao) to 10 million (Baoding). SEVENTH RING ROAD The percentage of 3.18 TRILLION Hebei’s population The informal name for the G95 Hebei’s GDP in that is ethnically Han. Capital Region Ring Expressway, JING-JIN-JI yuan, making it the The biggest ethnic a 940km ring road that connects The collective name for Beijing 8th biggest pro- minority groups in the a number of big cities in the (Jing), Tianjin (Jin) and Hebei (which 11vincial economy province are Manchu, region. Although dubbed was traditionally known as Ji). in China. By com- Hui and Mongol. Urban planners envisage the region Beijing’s Seventh Ring Road, 96 parison, Beijing’s becoming an integrated and inter- percent of it is in Hebei province. GDP in 2016 was connected megalopolis of 110 RMB2.49 trillion. million people. BOHAI The amount of steel, in metric95.68 tons, produced ECONOMIC RIM annually in Hebei’s industrial city of Tangshan – more than in the entire United States. GREEN NECKLACE An economic zone linking Jing- An initiative through which Hebei Jin-Ji with areas near the Bohai may shield Beijing from pollution. sea, including parts of Liaoning It is hoped that a combination of and Shandong provinces. The planting trees, connecting green zone’s strengths lie in heavy spaces and restoring wetlands in industry and manufacturing, es- the province can provide a protec- pecially automobiles, electronics tive ring around the capital. and petrochemicals.

45 TheTHE Rural FUTURE Hebei Counties SetIS to HERE Become the New Shenzhen

he road into Rongcheng county is wide, dusty and flanked by flat farmland. It takes us past scenes typical of this quiet part “I was surprised, of Hebei: horse stables, a roadside wet because nothing has market, wheat farmers preparing for the summer harvest. High-speed rail hasn’t changed here for reached these parts, so we’re making the journey from Beijing via Baoding, a city years” about 50 kilometers to our west. Yet, if recently announced plans come to fruition, this area will be transformed beyond recognition. Rongcheng has been named – along with neighboring counties Anxin and Xiongxian – as the location of a new Special Economic Zone, an area of targeted trade, development and invest- ment akin to Shenzhen or Shanghai’s Pudong district. Known collectively as the Xiongan New Area, these three rural counties will act as a deputy capital. Designed to relieve the

pressures facing Beijing (congestion, over- crowding and other “urban ills,” as they’re officially known), the area’s population is set to increase more than fivefold in the next 15 years. Morgan Stanley forecasts up “Xiongan New to RMB2.4 trillion in investment will flood in over the next decade – quite the transfor- Area is a historic mation in a place where, for now at least, development that there isn’t even reliable phone reception. Signal improves as we enter Rongcheng’s would have been main town, a cluster of simple one- and unimaginable to two-story brick buildings. The county is known for its textile manufacturers, and our ancestors. You this main artery is lined with clothing stores and wholesalers. Locals appear eager to can quote me on discuss the news. that. I’ll even let “I was surprised,” says a vendor sur- named Deng, of the moment she heard you photograph my the news. “Nothing has changed here for government ID” years.” Like many involved in Rongcheng’s clothing industry, Deng is selling her wares (a series of shirts branded “Calvin Klain”) on the town’s main shopping street. She’s

46 “I’m pretty sure my unsure about how the New Area will change livelihood is going to her life, but her neighboring vendors are get better” quick to show their enthusiasm. Butcher Zhang Keming says, “I’m pretty sure my livelihood is going to get better.” And Li Hua, the manager of a local veg- he admits, before launching into a speech etable market, says, “It is really good for lauding Xi Jinping, who he says is bound to all of us. It’s better for old people’s retire- improve things. ment, and it will mean better schools for We stand there, listening to him on the children.” street corner, for some time. “Let me tell Rongcheng residents seem unified in you something,” he proclaims. “Xiongan their support for the district. But a woman New Area is a historic development that from Shenzhen who works in the town would have been unimaginable to our – and asks not to be named – is furious ancestors.” To prove just how sure he is, about the plan. When she sees us conduct- when we ask his name, he says “You can ing interviews with unanimously optimistic quote me on that. I’ll even let you photo- Rongcheng locals, she rushes over to graph my government ID.” When we ask if interrupt us. he has noticed a lot of foreigners visiting “If they tear down the old buildings, there Rongcheng, post-announcement, he says: won’t be any places where I can afford to “You are the first. I’ve never seen foreigners live,” she tells us. “It’s a good thing for here before, ever.” locals, but not for me.” Perhaps so, but there have been plenty of Indeed, it’s locals who stand to ben- outsiders here in recent weeks. On the day efit most. They’re the ones who have a Xiongan was announced, real estate specu- Rongcheng hukou - which means access lators flooded in from Beijing and beyond. to local schools and benefits – and those House prices reportedly jumped overnight who own land here have already seen their from RMB10,000 per square meter to property leap in value since the announce- RM17,000 per square meter. In response, ment of the New Area. local authorities ordered an immediate Liang Guozhi is a local business owner freeze on property sales. who’s excited for the changes to come. He Burgeoning demand will surely be good and his elderly friends talk excitedly about news for local homeowners, like the propri- the plan and how it will improve local com- etor of a Rongcheng dumpling restaurant merce. “Business here has been so-so,” who also asks not to be named in our

47 “We’re not sure when we can start selling property again – we’re waiting for word from the local government. It’s a temporary thing. This is definitely good for the area. Supposedly it’s going to be good for everyone” story. Although the restaurateur is likely to We depart Rongcheng and pass along of the locals we speak to were surprised benefit when restrictions are lifted, he is country roads to the neighboring county by the announcement. And no one seems worried about the impact on his livelihood. of Xiongxian. Maize, wheat and millet are able to offer any tangible idea of what the “Personally, I’m concerned that small abundant here. Hebei may be known for future holds. businesses like mine will be shut down steel production and heavy industry, but That includes those who make a living and forced to relocate,” he says. “And I’m 40 percent of the province’s population is from speculation. At the nearby real es- just a normal guy – I can't get another employed in the forestry and agricultural tate firm Beijing Zhenyuan Construction more ‘professional’ job. sectors. And somewhat surprisingly, given Ltd. Co., we find general manager Shen “But on the other hand, the population that we’re right next to Baoding (a city Junhua and her associates enjoying an is likely to increase, which will hopefully named China’s most polluted in 2015), afternoon of baijiu and cigarettes in the bring more customers into my shop,” he this part of Hebei is remarkably green. office. With the ban on property sales, adds. “And the environment should In fact, this is one of the reasons why there’s little else to do. improve too.” this site was chosen (another being that Our slew of questions – What do you The man attests to the influx of specu- it is close to both Beijing and Tianjin, think the area will look like in 20 years? lators, directing us toward a local hotel two hubs of the Jing-Jin-Ji megalopolis What does this mean for local busi- that’s being used a temporary hub for – see page 44). By centering the Special nesses? What do you think will happen to officials. There’s business to be done here. Economic Zone around the wetlands of house prices? – are met with declarations Sure enough, we find the hotel’s entrance Baiyangdian Lake, urban planners envisage of ignorance. Shen wasn’t told anything, cordoned off and guarded by local police. Xiongan as “a city with scenic ecologi- she says, and no one knows what’s going Entry is only being granted to those with cal environment, blue skies, fresh air and to happen. pre-booked meetings. But plenty have clean water,” according to Chinese state “We’re not sure when we can start turned up to try their luck. media. transactions again, we’re waiting for Among them is property developer Ke Baiyangdian Lake is a tourist attraction word from the local government,” Shen Jingbin, who has driven the 160km from in itself, but now its visitors want to see says, before rebutting our suggestion Beijing to scope out business opportuni- the site of the New Area. Upon our arrival that the freeze may affect business. “It’s ties. He doesn’t have a meeting booked, in Xiongxian, we find a group of more not a bad thing, it’s a temporary thing. but he’s confident about the area’s than 30 tourists taking photos in front of This is definitely good for the area. prospects. the local government headquarters, an Supposedly it’s going to be good for “You can’t buy land for housing,” he austere and otherwise unremarkable slab everyone.” confirms. “But there are business permits of gray concrete. Their tour guide tells For now, Xiongan is a vision built on available for electricity, the environment us that, since the announcement, people hope. But it is also one built on politi- and infrastructure. I’m hoping to get have been requesting pilgrimages to the cal will. A circular issued by the Chinese inside.” town. Government grandiosely describes the It’s a waiting game for those hoping to “They like to say they’ve been to the project as “a strategy crucial for a millen- profit from Xiongan. When we contact Ke New Area. It makes them proud,” she says, nium to come.” the next day, he tells us that he eventu- as a large family poses for a photo with Whether it will flourish like Shenzhen ally gained access to the building, though a cry of “Xinqu jiayou!” (‘Come on, New or Pudong remains to be seen. What is he “didn’t get any good information.” He Area!’). certain is that the lives of people in these says that although there were government There’s evidently a great deal of three rural counties have been turned on officials inside, he was unable to see “the optimism and anticipation here. But their heads – and most of them are pretty main ones.” there’s a fair amount of confusion too. All happy about it.

49 Hengshui Tangshan

Hengshui is the epicenter of “inside painting,” an art that involves painting the interiors of glasses and Now a tourist attraction for its famous porcelain, snuff bottles with tiny paintbrushes. Tangshan was flattened by a deadly earthquake in 1976.

“Home “Porcelain of inside capital of painting” North China”

Which nickname excites you?

Zhangjiakou borders Inner Mongolia and will host the 2022 Yes Weird Winter Olympics.

No Are you into snow sports? Chengde

Famous

Chengde’s Mountain Resort was How about crowds? Famous ones, or weird ones? the summer getaway for Beijing’s emperors for centuries.

What does your farm grow? FARMLAND

Hate em!

Jujubes Corn Xiongan New Area Love em!

Qinhuangdao Oh wait, you can't buy Cangzhou land there currently.

After plans for the Xiongan New Area were announced Qinhuangdao is home to in April, so many speculators Cangzhou is famous for its (very crowded) beaches and rushed to the proposed site that jujubes (even though they’re the point where the Great Wall local authorities froze all prop- called ‘Tianjin pears’). tumbles into the sea. erty sales.

50 Shijiazhuang Langfang

Baoding

The capital of Hebei, Formerly China’s most Baoding Shijiazhuang is home to polluted city, is home Zhengding county, where Xi to a burgeoning green energy Langfang Jinping first served in political has quick access to industry (and, still, a lot of office. both Beijing and Tianjin. pollution).

(A) (B) Trying to lessen dependence on coal

Would you rather live (A) in the capital of Hebei or (B) near the capital of China? What’s your job?

Important Incredibly important Xingtai

How important is coal to you? Mining for coal

HEAVY INDUSTRY

TOURIST ATTRACTIONS Where would you You’ve stopped (briefly) in rather travel? Xingtai if you’ve ever taken the slow train to Hong Kong.

Hong Kong What are you most Handan interested in? Iowa START HERE

WHERE IN HEBEI SHOULD

If your hutong hasn’tYOU already been LIVE? bricked up, your rent is probably Heavily polluted Handan’s getting hiked again. So, if you’ve gotta move to Hebei, you might as well sister city is the squeaky-clean choose somewhere that's just right for you. Dubuque, Iowa.

51 EAT & DRINK

THE BRUNCH BUNCH We eat our way through the best of Beijing’s new brunches, p60

w

Australian Cafe French Bistro Italian Makeover p57 p60 p61 FOOD FOR THOUGHT 53 MAY 2017 | | MAY WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Which era of Beijing's history 's Which era lived have to most like you would in? be Beijing’s? I’m not to Does it have here. from from? you are Where Oh, cool. Shanxi. live could – if you Alright, yeah of era any during and anywhere history... period. States Shanxi, the Warring hero? Who is your Lau. Andy actor] Kong [Hong Find Liu He on Tianze Lu next to the big line of people applying for US visas. -

Which talent would you most like most like you Which talent would have? to knowledgeable. be more to I want great your consider What do you est achievement? Serving in the army. thing one change could If you it be? would what life, about your get up so early. to have I wish I didn’t most treasured What is your possession? My wife. a in most value do you What trait person? people who I like Trustworthiness. their promises. keep most dislike? What is it that you Summer. laugh? you makes What always Getting paid. What’s the most surprising thing you? that’s happened to Getting married. -

visas at the American Embassy visas at the American Embassy the street. across customer? worst Who is your is such a thing. think there I don’t is god. The customer most do you person Which living admire? My father. the happiest? you were When a little boy. When I was possible. idea of the perfect What is your day? Shopping and hanging out with my wife. best customer? Who is your for people applying The Chinese , who’s meet Liu He, who’s This month, we out selling jianbing and soft drinks side the American Embassy. today? feeling you are How ! Great thought What’sfirst thing you the up this morning? woke you when as soon as work get to to I want

A Jianbing Maker Liu and Victor Noelle Mateer by WITH...

MODERATELY DEEP DEEP MODERATELY GETTING GRAPE VINE

SNACKS IN THE CITY One Small Step for Mangoes, In the wake of the Great Hutong Bricking of 2017, it feels inappropri- One Giant Leap for Mangokind ate to update you on the minutiae of other, unaffected restaurants. It would be silly for me delve into the China is making space mangoes. Yes, you read details of Sanlitun’s menu changes, that correctly. In October, two astronauts and four test tubes of mango seeds went into place for me to give you news of orbit on China’s Shenzhou XI aircraft. One someand it deep-pocketedwould definitely hotel. be out I’ll of just month later, back on Planet Earth, the say this: Some places have new samplers were inspected by Hainan- menus, OK? based scientists, and now, the results Go check them out yourself – I are in – not only have they survived, can’t do this for you all the time! they’ve mutated into dope-ass You know why? Because there are space mangoes. The harsh envi- people scared for their livelihoods. ronment of outer space caused Who are afraid they’ll have to move them to grow stronger and better than ever before. it’s not just Fangjia Hutong, or But what does this mean for whateverhome to far-flung your alleyway provinces. du jour And is. humans on Earth? Well, better A gray-brick tsunami has engulfed mangoes. According to China Daily, huge swaths of our city. So I apolo- space mangoes will be pest-resistant gize, chefs and bartenders, if I didn’t and stronger. China, after all, has a feature your pop-up this month. I’m proven track record when it comes to too busy being mad. space breeding – the country has been grow- Here’s the latest (as we go to ing plants on satellites since 1987. NM press): Fangjia Hutong is to be fully bricked. Some businesses there are closing temporarily; Ramo, in the words of one staffer, “is not closing, OFF THE BEATEN PLATE even for one hour.” The future is less certain for the Jiaodaokou hutongs Have we reached peak capitalism? to the south of Fangjia, which Or is Wagas just partnering with are also scheduled for a bricking. Mobike? (Both.) Corporations love Sanlitun’s ‘Dirty Bar Street’ is un- corporations, and nothing proves it der the hammer, and its popular like a blended mix of orange, carrot, Luga’s is looking for another loca- lemon and passionfruit juices in tion. Beixinqiao Santiao is almost the on-brand hue of Mobike orange unrecognizable. And, sadly, we have from your local branch of Danish- to say goodbye to Aotu Studio, the café-turned-China-chain Wagas. hair-salon-art-gallery-bar-event- Mobike Mad (RMB40 for a large) space that was a hipster heaven. is the latest attempt by Mobike to Fortunately we hear it’s looking for take over the world promotional a second home. juice from Wagas, and coincides But before we feel too sorry for with the stationing of rows of cycles ourselves, let’s remember the real outside select stores in Beijing and victims here. We may be missing Shanghai. The Mobike revolution a few spots to party right now, but is just getting started. We predict some people are missing their in- Element Fresh will be hawking Ofo comes. Hopefully, next month, I’ll be juice next. NM back with some better news. NM RMB40, Wagas (see Listings for details)

54 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EDITED BY NOELLE MATEER / [email protected]

MIFAN/MAFAN We Tell You HOPER if the Rice is Another month, another bespoke cocktail bar with a jazz Worth the soundtrack. This month, it’s Hoper (and a bunch of other places Hassle – we just don’t have room for them all). Menus are so last year, so tell Hoper’s bartenders what you like and they’ll create something on the spot for you. The drinks are fantastic, but slow – so don’t roll in with your entire crew.

Daily, 6.30pm-2am; 6 Huafeng Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区华丰胡同6号 (186 1843 8838)

THE MISSION A hip, stainless steel build-your-own-burrito bar, blasting an upbeat pop soundtrack and serving chips in brown paper bags – where did The Mission

Chipotle.) The Mission’s burritos lack authenticity, andget that their idea? cheese (Chipotle. is distinctly They waxy. definitely But beggars got it from can’t be choosers, and Beijingers are burrito beg- gars indeed. Add RMB10 for guac – your chips are gonna need it.

Daily, 10am-10pm; NL402 China World Mall, Chaoyang 朝阳区 国贸商城北区四层NL402

YU SHI BY CARTELEI This time last year, Beijing had practically zero wine bars. Now,

has brought the trend to Central Park. Wines start at RMB60 perwe canglass, rattle and five the offsmall, the cozytop of space our heads, differentiates and Yu Shiitself by with Cartelei a teahouse concept during the day. Daily, 1.30pm-midnight; Suite 101, Building 20, Central Park, 6 Chaowai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街6号, 新城国际20号楼101 (6561 2400)

SOCIAL CIRCLE Don’t let the Game of Thrones-esque logo fool you – Social Circle is not a rol-

decorated spot sells bottled German beers from a fridge, as well as cocktails inlicking disturbing medieval neon tavern, hues. butIt’s ratherbest to a stick raging to thehellfire beer, of but despair. if it’s aThis cold small, bottle oddly of Franziskaner you’re after, you’re better off going to 7-Eleven. It’s just around the corner anyway.

Daily, 7pm-late; 18 Xinzhong Jie, by Golden Pineapple International Hostel, Chaoyang 朝阳区新中街 18号, 金菠萝青年旅馆旁胡同

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 55 EAT & DRINK | RESTAURANTS PERI-PERI Like Nando’s, But Not So words by Oscar Holland, images by Polly Gao

Beijing has a copy of Nando’s. It’s called Peri-Peri, and it is so convinc- chicken items. But you’ll never order them, so don’t worry about it. ingly Nando-like that we needed to check the company’s website to Let’s talk about sides instead. There are sweet-potato fries in the rules on cooking. Or spelling. corn. And localization alert: There are ‘Dragon Boat Fries,’ curved to confirmBut here’s that itone isn’t way a franchise.in which Peri-Peri A franchise hits that the doesn’tmark: branding. follow any of resemblea trendy metal an ancient basket. Chinese There areboat generous and thus servings appealing of toflavorless local palates. Because if you’ve been to a branch of Nando’s, you’ll recognize it With the deception complete, all that’s left is for Peri-Peri to cover all. From the menu’s wording to the restaurant’s logo (at least they its tracks. In fact, they have inexplicably printed this strategy on its bothered to change the coloring – that’ll keep the lawyers away), it’s as napkins: ‘Now remove all evidence,’ they read. Great job, guys. if someone has just gone to Nando’s and copied everything they could. If you’re not from a country blessed with Nando’s, here’s a quick Daily, 11am-10pm; Sanlitun Lu (by Dongzhimen Wai Dajie), Chaoyang 朝阳区三里 introduction: Originally from South Africa, the restaurant chain serves 屯路 (近东直门外大街) (5620 4097) Portuguese-style peri-peri chicken – and little else. There are now over 1,000 branches in 30 countries. But, crucially, China isn’t one of them. This is what makes Peri-Peri so gloriously audacious. This and the fact that its Chinese name is 南多世 , which sounds a lot like how you’d pronounce Nando’s in Chinese – Nanduoshi. The restaurant may be rather pleasant – and convincingly Nando- esque – but what about the chicken? Well, just like in real Nando’s, you can get a quarter, half or whole chicken. There are chicken sandwiches

Some of the slightly-better-than-indifferent feedback from our table includesand platters, “decent,” and your “solid,” food and even “not comes disappointing.” with a familiar The wordtoothpick “tender” flag.

You just cook chicken and put peri-peri sauce on it. Speaking of which, is even floated at one point. But it’s kinda hard to mess up Nando’s. an overseas branch of Nando’s and brought to China in a suitcase. there’sWeirdly, a shelf Peri-Peri of said also sauces has thatpizza, definitely pasta and haven’t a whole been bunch stolen of non-from

56 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM RESTAURANTS | EAT & DRINK HOME GROUNDS Healthy, But Not Too Healthy by Noelle Mateer

Australians are really into being Australian. At least that’s what a recent spate of Aussie-proud food ventures would have us believe. At times, this can be problem- atic – there is something decidedly awkward about a Beijing restaurateur hawking the food of a rich, predominately white nation as if it’s an underdog, an underap- preciated cuisine that will save all of us in China from the terrors of local food. This is all to say: I went into Home Grounds, as I do most places, very skeptical. But Home Grounds does not preach. It is simply Australian in the best of ways: It is chill, healthy and fun. It may be just below new gym/cult BaseFit, but we detect no holier-than-thou adherence to kale and quinoa. There are salads and smoothies

The best dish of all lands squarely between the realms of health and indulgence. Joel’shere, surepancakes – but (RMB60)there are arealso named Tsingtao-battered for Joel Bennetts, fish and the chips. Australian And cocktails. chef Home Grounds brought over from Australia. (One word: Australia!) These hot cakes are and our lack of self control doesn’t leave us in carb-induced malaise. mind-bendingly,But enough about life-alteringly the pancakes good, – there and better are other yet, dishesthe combination here too. (Seriously of flapjacks though, get the pancakes.) The avo smash (RMB50) could have been an everyday avocado toast, if not for the simple, yet ingenious additions of feta and sprouts, rendering it the perfect breakfast. And speaking of zeitgeisty food items – the and chips (RMB70) are delightful, if lacking some crispiness, and accompanied by homemadeHawaii 5-0 pokesauce. bowl If it (RMB70)proves anything, comes atopit’s that a bed healthy of yummy and hearty sushi rice. can beThe friends. fish And that’s a lesson we’re down with.

Daily, 11am-10.30pm; 39-3 Xingfu Ercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福二村39-3 (5747 5511) SHANSHI Fire in the Hole-in-the-Wall by Noelle Mateer

If you haven’t had a strange dining experience lately, you’re doing them to you, swimming in a large metal bowl of red liquid. It’s the Beijing all wrong. most beautiful assault on your senses, a symphony of violence on your Instead, you may have seen Shanshi’s bizarre outer facade while tastebuds. To use a cliche, it hurts so good. drunkenly stumbling home from Slow Boat’s Sanlitun taproom, or Side dishes include spicy cucumbers, spicy eggs and spicy brains. worse, Hai Di Lao. It’s a wall painted to look like a bookshelf, Again, if you haven’t eaten brains yet, you’re doing Beijing wrong. sandwiched between two grubby fast-food restaurants. The no-real- A fridge of beers (both domestic and imported) and Arctic Ocean is door gimmick is pretentious when it comes to cocktail bars, but in there for you if you need help washing it down, anyway. the case of joints hawking chuan’r, it’s delightfully quirky. And that’s The reigning spicy-chuan’r queen of Beijing is the ferociously popu- exactly what Shanshi is – a chaotic, odorous purveyor of spicy dips of lar Sichuan restaurant and woman Zhang Mama. But we think Shanshi the highest order. *Fooled ya, this magazine is free. Pick from all manner of snacks on sticks, including tofu, chicken wings, could be a threat to her throne. If only its customers could find it. mushroomsSlide open and, the ‘bookcase,’of course, innards and you’ll and enter offal a(this world is theof fiery good delights. stuff, Daily, 11am-9.30pm; at the intersection of Gongti Nanlu and Dongdaqiao Xijie, folks). Your server will then cook them in the spiciest sauce you’ve Chaoyang 朝阳区工体南路与东大桥斜街交口 (6500 0203) ever tasted – we guarantee you, or your money back*– and then serve

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 57 EAT & DRINK | FEATURE ROLLING WITH THE BRUNCHES Your Guide to Beijing’s Best New Brunches by Noelle Mateer

- tle white fuzzy things that get all over your apartment. May we suggest you add new Beijing N’Joy brunchThere are menus many to things this list? you (Somewhere associate with between spring: cherry flowers, blossoms Easter candies, and the thoseslow fadehorrible of your lit Seasonal Affective Disorder.) For they, much like the sprouting of tree leaves each April, are a Price: RMB398 per person, add RMB268 for joyous, boozy sign of the season. Indeed, so many places have unveiled new brunches lately, it can be hard to keep track of them. We’ve eaten at them all (you’re welcome), so here’s our Who’s Going: Families on generous expat guide to the new kids on the brunch block. packages,free-flow Champagne. anyone whose mantra is ‘treat yo self.’ Good For: Hedonistic displays of marathon Napa seafood eating. The Lowdown: NUO’s Sunday Brunch at Price: RMB55-150 per person N’Joy is the big daddy of brunch buffets. Who’s Going Unlimited oysters. Sashimi. Six varieties of running in Chaoyang Park, people with dogs. bubbly. Now, good news for bon vivants Good For: The: People best damn who biscuitshave just and finished gravy everywhere: N’Joy has upped its in town. (And healthy stuff, if you’re into Sunday game with caviar. Arrive that.) at N’Joy, and you’ll be greeted The Lowdown: Napa’s rooftop terrace is so with a small tin of sturgeon nice, we’d eat there even if the food were roe, plated beautifully garbage. But the food isn’t garbage, and the alongside all your following three words prove it: biscuits and favorite accoutre- gravy. We’re not talking British-style tea ments (consider this your American biscuits, slathered with housemade caviar porkbiscuits sausage here. gravy,We’re toppedtalking big,with fluffy crispy fried starter chicken and a runny fried egg. At just pack). RMB55, this pretty paean to Southern So you decadence is a steal. But a can kick off beautiful free-range eggs Benedict your brunch plate (RMB115) is also available with a bit of for those in the mood for something more classic. going wild at the buffet. refinement… before Weekends; Napa; 20 Liulitun Zhonglu, Chaoyang Sundays; N’Joy, NUO Hotel (see 朝阳区六里屯中路20号 (6595 9181) Listings for details)

Jing-A Taproom

Price: RMB108 per person. Who’s Going: Beer nerds, people with craft beer hangovers. Good For: Brunching in Sanlitun without break- ing the bank. The Lowdown: Whoops, are all these

your thing? Don’t worry, bargain hunt- ers,fine-dining this one’s all-day for you. brunch Jing-A affairs Taproom not has teamed up with Chef Simone Thompson of Hatchery to bring you a delicious and eggy brunch at good prices – just over a hundo for a three- course set. The standout is the ‘Laoban’s Eggs,’ which come scrambled with feta atop a hearty slice of sour- dough. Add RMB30 for a beergarita – you know you want to.

Weekends; Jing-A Taproom (see Listings for details)

58 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FEATURE | EAT & DRINK

Opera Bombana

Price Who’s Going: Fans of the Michelin Guide, Chinese celebrities. Good :For RMB688 per person, RMB888 including free-flow Prosecco. The Lowdown: Who says you can’t have pasta for brunch? Each month, Opera Bombana’s: Anyone brunch who likes menu Italian is inspired food (so… by aeveryone). different region of Italy,

cuts and cheeses from the region, before moving on to soup, pasta, mains andfrom desserts. Piedmont This to Sicily.is serious The diningfive-course – so cancelmeal starts your withplans a for plate the of rest cold of the afternoon.

Sundays; Opera Bombana (see Listings for details)

The Georg

Price: RMB350 per person, RMB130 per glass of Champagne. Who’s Going: Fashionistas, fans of minimalist Nordic aesthetics. Good For: Feeling like you’re outside when you’re inside. The Lowdown: The Georg’s new ‘Phlake it ‘til You Make It’ brunch may be relaxed – but don’t let that fool you into thinking the chefs are relaxing, too. After a round of fresh-baked bread and charcuterie to start, you’ll be treated to three exquisite courses. It’s all in The Georg’s beautiful atrium, so you’ll feel like you’re outside – but not too outside.

Weekends; The Georg (see Listings for details)

The Rug

Price: RMB100-150 per person. Who’s Going: Friends who can’t agree on what to eat. Good For: Your Instagram feed, fueling up before a shop- ping trip. The Lowdown: Ever-popular brunch spot The Rug – expect to see everyone you know here – has revamped its (long) menu. Key words: fusion burritos. But the oldies are goodies here, too, so grab a fruit smoothie and a coffee to wash it all down. Or a bottle of wine. It is the weekend, after all. Stop by with your friends for a taste of the new menu – you were probably going to, anyway.

Daily; The Rug (see Listings for details) Migas

Price Who’s Going: Large groups of friends, people who left Migas at 4am the night: RMB268 before. per person, add RMB148 for two hours of free flow. Good For: Curing hangovers (with more booze). The Lowdown: Migas brunch is always a party, and the new ‘La Feria’ brunch is no exception. Inspired by Springtime carnivals in towns across Spain, the brunch starts with a festive buffet of soups, starters and mini- sandwiches before moving onto the big leagues – sausage, gambas and, of course, paella. There is also a cute little dessert cart that rolls around the restaurant, announc- ing itself with the ring of a bell. We a trough. flock to it like (drunken) pigs to Weekends; Migas (see Listings for details)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 59 EAT & DRINK | RESTAURANTS

BISTRO 108 Liberté, Egalité, Chilled Rosé words by Noelle Mateer, image by Victor Liu

When it comes to Bistro 108, do not pronounce ‘108’ as ‘one-oh-eight.’ and you’ll be served a light chicken salad amuse-bouche (that’s French No, this is Bistro cent-huit. After all, we’re just a few meters from the for ‘amuse mouth,’ you imbécile). Then, it’s time for starters. We love French Embassy here, and every lunch hour the restaurant is packed the pan-fried seafood (RMB58), which comes in the pan, and the foie with French expats. (By ‘lunch hour’ we mean lunch hours, of course – gras (RMB198) is worth the extra kuai. The pork terrine (RMB58) these are French diners we’re talking about.) comes with a crispy baguette – ideal for sharing. If you, like many Beijingers, associate French restaurants with tux- When it comes to mains, Bistro 108 caters to meat lovers. We edoed waiters and gold chandeliers, then we suggest you reconsider. Because Bistro 108 is as French as it gets, and there’s no gold here. At (RMB68) comes perfectly cooked atop diced potatoes. And at din- nertime,dare you theto find sesame-encrusted a better roast chicken salmon in (RMB148) this part ofsings, town particularly – this one of chocolate lava cake. But more on that later. alongside a bottle of white. least,Instead, no literal Bistro gold 108 – there’splays upon definitely the noble metaphorical and distinctly gold, French in the form But do not leave sans dessert. The chocolate lava cake (RMB38) is notion that multi-course meals ought not be a luxury, but rather a way the best rendition of the dish we’ve had thus far. And the thin-crust of life. And they do this by serving quality French at agreeable price apple pie, which spreads its delicate, sugary layers across the width of points. A relaxed, two-hour lunch break with a main, appetizer and, your plate, is a steal at RMB45. hell, let’s throw in a dessert – will run you less than RMB200. Bottles Honestly, we could give you 108 reasons to visit 108, but the place of wine are even more of a bargain – we enjoy a bottle of rosé on the speaks for itself. Just... in French. For a few hours. Over wine. outdoor terrace for just RMB98. But this is no cheap fare. These are French classics done right. Enter, Daily, 11.30am-10.30pm; 104 Cao Chang Plaza (across from the American Embassy), 19 Tianze Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区天泽路19号草场商业广场一层104室 (美国 大使馆对面) (5710 8106)

60 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM RESTAURANTS | EAT & DRINK

LA RUCOLA The Italian Renaissance by Noelle Mateer, image by Victor Liu

New look, same great taste. Longtime Chaoyang Park restaurant Alio Olio has reopened as La Rucola. Sure, they’re now named after the Italian word for ‘arugula,’ and there have been a few style updates, but much of the food has stayed the same. And that’s a very good thing. The base concept remains untouched: trattoria-style Italian food at rea- sonable prices. On our latest visit, we tuck into hearty lasagna (RMB88),

The new menus are more complex than, well, arugula. They offer an astoundingcheesy calzones variety, (RMB98) from salads and traditional and starters wood-fired to pastas pizza and mains. (from ARMB88). warm egg runs all over La Rucola’s charming rustic salad (RMB58). A fearsome crab sits atop a not-so-fearsome spaghetti (RMB98). And our garlic mush- rooms come stuffed with Italian ham (RMB46). There are even, believe it or not, cocktails – La Rucola’s charming wooden bar has had a face-lift as well. (Although real Italians, we hear, prefer wine – La Rucola’s got that too.) The venue’s charm has remained intact. Enter via a set of stairs to its homey loft space, creaky wood lending it all a welcome dose of old-world charm. Crucially, the upstairs dining room still has a beautiful view over Chaoyang Park. If you look out the window and squint a little (OK, a lot), it almost feels like Italy.

Daily, 10.30am-2.30pm and 5pm-2am; Chaoyang Park West Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园西一门北侧 (6500 4515)

PRESS RELEASE Read All About It by Noelle Mateer The irony of Press Release is that it doesn’t exactly announce its ar- rival. The tiny bar is behind a Southeast Asian restaurant which is behind an Italian restaurant. Neither the Southeast Asian place nor the Italian place is any good. Needless to say, we did not expect much from Press Release. But then. One step inside PR’s stunningly hip, neon-accented bar- room, and we feel a world away from the mediocre mall restaurants. And then, when we sip a glass of house wine (RMB50), we’re really sold. The Italian vintage (RMB65) is the best house wine we’ve had in recent memory, and it’s just as unexpectedly bangin’ as this the bar’s decor, which features vintage typewriters and indie magazines. “Why does every wine bar have jazz music and pictures of vineyards on the wall?” muses founder Issey Lin. Press Release is an oddity, but it owns its weirdness. Lin isn’t a pro- fessional wino, but she knows wine; she isn’t a trained mixologist, but her sous-vide cocktails are out of this world. The Dazed – a red wine cocktail with vodka, vanilla and mango – is just as good as any drink from a Sanlitun bar where the highly trained, bowtie-wearing bartend- ers spend 15 minutes mixing your drink. But at RMB75, it’s cheaper. And one last thing: we swear we’re not just saying all this because we’re journalists, and the drinks are named after writers and maga-

Daily,zines. 6pm-late; But if you’re B1-10 reading Topwin Mallthis, (Inside Issey, L'Epasar it definitely Restaurant), helped. Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯1号通盈中心B1-10 (乐芭莎美食共和国蓝墙内)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 61 EAT & DRINK | THE SPREAD

image by Victor Liu, compiled by Noelle Mateer

Piu Gusto Chips RMB15 Pizza Saporita

Blue Cheese RMB55 Fromager de Pekin (available at The Crib, April Gourmet and Farm to Neighbors)

62 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM THE SPREAD | EAT & DRINK

Labi BlondeRMB65 Beer April Gourmet

RMB99 Tussock Jumper Chardonnay Cheers

Bagels RMB54 for five The Bake Shop

(WeChat thebakeshop to order)

Citrus CuredRMB80 Salmon Viking Food (WeChat Maximilian-S to order)

Philadelphia Cream Cheese RMB31 April Gourmet

Pork Rillettes RMB28.7/100g The French Butcher

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 63 Soulja Boy / Gig Stray DJ

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Having long been associated with drum ‘n’ bass, Stray has been spreading his wings of late. Whether the hip-hop influences on Paradise or the footwork sen- sibilities of Matchsticks, his recent output has been refreshingly varied. It is a fitting booking for Beijing Dagadana Gig promoter The Syndicate, which has A portmanteau of the names Daga diversified its musical palate beyond and Dana (the band’s founders), the drum ‘n’ bass parties it was Soulja Boy exploded into the US charts in 2007 with ‘Crank That (Soulja Boy),’ Dagadana drop Ukrainian and once known for. The show marks an irritatingly catchy tune that spent seven weeks at number one. Record Polish influences in a melting pot the Beijing leg of this year’s Outlook sales dropped sharply after his 2008 hit ‘Kiss Me Thru The Phone.’ He’s failed of folk, jazz and electronica. With Festival launch tour. Support comes to chart since 2010, and while Soulja threatened to return to the limelight by Daga on electronics and Dana on from The Syndicate’s resident DJs collaborating with Nicki Minaj on her third album The Pinkprint, their song keyboards, the pair regularly tour and turntablist DJ Fu. ‘Yasss Bish’ didn’t make the final album cut. A perfect time for a China tour, Europe and Asia. For a taste, check Fri May 19, Price TBD; Dada (see then. He’ll be cashing in at Club Mix, where the star will be met with a rau- out the 2010 album Maleńka, which Listings for details) cous reception from people who aren’t entirely sure who he is. earned the band a Fryderyk Award Fri May 5; RMB260 (advance), RMB350 (door); Club Mix (see Listings for details) (a Polish Grammy, essentially). DJ Marky DJ Wed May 17, 9pm; RMB80 (ad- vance), RMB100 (door); Yugong Twinkle Star / Gig Yishan (see Listings for details)

The Meantraitors Gig

We’ll give you a free copy of That’s Drum ‘n’ bass may have originated in Beijing if you can name a Russian the UK, but Brazilian producers have psychobilly band. Got one? (Psyche – Beijing emo-punks Twinkle Star play a homecoming show at Yugong Yishan fol- made a real mark on the scene. A lead- That’s Beijing is free). If you didn’t get lowing a nationwide tour to promote their new album, Full of Hope. The band ing figure among them, DJ Marky has one, then let us introduce you to The mixes youthful energy (new drummer Gao Wei is just 21) with bona fide music spent the last 25 years fusing energetic Meantraitors, a St Petersburg band that scene credentials (vocalist Zhao Meng is also one-third of legendary pop-punk beats with the feel-good sounds of his have been mixing punk and rockabilly band New Pants), resulting in a sound that is lively and eminently melodic. home country. His tune ‘LK’ remains a since the late 1980s. The trio return Once a festival favorite at Strawberry and Midi festivals, the four-piece have undisputed genre classic. And in keep- for their second China tour, and you been plugging away since 2008. Their new album marks a coming of age, and ing with the Latin flavor, support comes can expect raw punk energy from the an evolution in their sound since their 2012 debut, The End of the Beginning. from DJ Dubatonik who’ll play an all- School Bar stage. Support comes from Tookoo, Alt Senior and others. vinyl Mexican funk set. Sat May 6; RMB100; School Bar (see Sat May 6, 8.30pm; RMB80 (advance), RMB100 (door); Yugong Yishan (see Thu May 11; Price TBD; Dada (see Listings for details) Listings for details) Listings for details)

64 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Art Garden / Festival No Lights No Lycra Dance

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A community dedicated to free-form dance, No Lights No Lycra (NLNL) began in Melbourne, Australia in 2009. It has since spread to dozens of international cities, including Beijing. The rules are: no lights, no lycra, no teacher, no steps or Yoga in the Park technique. NLNL is essentially a safe space The Art Garden Festival is a four-month event devoted to gardens, art, photography, Meditation for people to let go and shake it off with- wellbeing, nature and children. From May until mid-September, the festival will show- out fear of judgment. All proceeds go to Yoga in the Park is back, courtesy of case eight events. One event theme is a ‘garden art market,’ a crafts market selling Pojie Arts, an organization that provides Moka Bros and Yoga Yard, and just in jewelry, furniture, cosmetics and clothes. The dates for this market are May 13-14, Jul free arts education workshops to people time for the warm weather. The group 1-2, Aug 19-20 and Sep 16-17. with disabilities in China. activity is a relaxed session of yoga The second event is an organic picnic market. Here, visitors can whet their appetites Mon May 8 and Mon May 22, and meditation, guided by profes- by browsing and buying a range of gardening products, condiments, wine, and or- 7-8.15pm; RMB50; ModernSky Lab, sional instructors, followed by brunch ganic brunches. Visit on Jun 17-18, Jul 15-16, Aug 5-6 and Sep 2-3. 5-108, B1, Building D, Galaxy SOHO, (optional) at Moka Bros Solana, where The festival takes place in a renovated former factory, transformed into three Chaoyang 朝阳区银座SOHO, D座 , B1, participants receive a 15 percent dis- ephemeral 200sqm gardens by architects and landscapers. The gardens encompass 5-108 (5773 5620, www.nolightsnoly- count. Yoga in the Park is suitable for a garden kitchen, playground and an art garden hosting seven international artists. cra.com) all levels and no sign-up is required Meanwhile, a photo exhibition is displayed outside. A family-friendly event, the festival – just show up with your yoga mat and also offers children’s workshops such as kite-making. The festival aims to raise public friends. The event is cancelled if the awareness about human relationships with nature and sustainability. Conquer the Wall AQI is above 200 or if it is raining. Sun May 14-Sun Sep 17; C&C Park, 77 Meishiguan Houjie, Dongcheng 东城区美 Marathon Sundays, 9.30-11am; RMB30 per class; 术馆后街77号 (for more information contact [email protected]) Chaoyang Park North Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园北门(8950 8065) Burbex: Atlas Obscura Scavenger Hunt / Urban Exploration The Grey Life and Relationship Theater

Take your running to the next level, lit- erally, by entering the annual Conquer the Wall marathon. The self-declared Mamonahi Theatre Company pre- “first and longest-running international sents two immersive plays over the marathon on the Great Wall of China” course of one evening: The Grey Life includes a selection of runs including and Relationship. The former is la- a full marathon, half marathon, 10km beled as “a walk on the particles…” and 5km distances. The racecourse cov- while the latter is about “way[s] to Following the success of 2016’s Olympic Village Scavenger Hunt, Beijing urban ex- ers 20,518 countable steps over varied grow up and find your world.” Take ploration group ‘Burbex’ presents its Atlas Obscura Scavenger Hunt 2017. This year, terrain and travels through secluded what you will from that. Described Burbex invites urban explorers to take part in a double scavenger hunt. Scavengers and off-the-beaten-track sections of the as an improv and immersive theat- will explore two sites: the first an abandoned Peoples’ Liberation Army Hospital, and Great Wall. The once-in-a-lifetime expe- er-dance group, Mamonahi includes the second an old Catholic School. Both are purportedly haunted, so it should be a rience is no walk in the park but, while Martina Morrocchi, an actor and frighteningly good (or scary, whatever) time. challenging, also provides runners with director who graduated from the If you’re wondering what to expect, organizers suggest attendees be reasonably plenty of bomb photo opportunities. International Academy of Theatre in fit, able to climb a small fence and run around. Scavengers need to bring a fully Note: Participants must be physically Rome, and professional musicians charged smart phone (3G/4G) and wear durable dark clothing. If you are a pro and fit. If you are not and you are reading Alberto Cuéllar, Shawn Moore and have a camera, feel free to bring that as well. There are only eight spots available, this in May, it is probably too late for Xu Peng. although more spaces may open up depending on demand, so sign up quick. you, sorry. Fri May 5, 9pm; RMB150 (door), Sat May 6, 10.30am-1.30pm; USD35; meet at Anheqiao subway station 在安河桥 Sat May 13, from 6am; USD295 RMB100 (advance); Yugong Yishan 北地铁见 (advance ticket sales only via www.atlasobscura.com/event; for more (adult), USD150 (child); Great Wall (see Listings for details) information email [email protected]) (www.conquerthewallmarathon.com)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 65 NUO Dessert Bar Corona Recommends / Migas Mercado Dining

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Indian Delicacy Food Festival NUO has unveiled a new dessert The Ritz-Carlton, Beijing is part- bar. And like everything at NUO, nering with The Ritz-Carlton, it’s beautiful, over-the-top and, Bangalore to showcase authentic most importantly, delicious. Stop Indian cuisine at Aroma this May. by the lobby lounge for world-class Chef Altamash Iqbal will be flying desserts by NUO’s chefs, includ- over from India to bring signature ing a traditional tarte tatin, liquid dishes – think curry lamb, Parata, nitrogen tiramisu and a gorgeous tandoor roasted chicken and more mille-feuille made with homemade – to Beijing. Chef Iqbal will also lead vanilla custard. Plus, of course, demonstrations on how to brew the much more. perfect masala tea during Aroma’s Thursdays and Fridays, 2-6pm; weekend brunch. Lobby Lounge of NUO Hotel, Level Sat May 6-Sun May 14; RMB368 per 1, NUO Hotel Beijing, 2A Jiangtai Lu, person for lunch, RMB448 for din- Chaoyang 朝阳区将台路甲2号北京诺 ner, RMB618 for brunch; Aroma, The 金酒店一层 (5926 8281) Ritz-Carlton Beijing (see Listings for details) Food Revolution Day Migas’ Sanlitun location opened in 2010. Since then, we’ve made a lot of Event memories there – whether dancing late into the night, watching the sunset Mother’s Day at Chapter Holidays on the gorgeous roof or enjoying a beautiful Spanish meal. But now, there’s a new Migas in town – and we couldn’t be more excited. Occupying a prime spot of the new China World Mall’s top floor, Migas Mercado is bringing Migas’ fun-loving Mediterranean vibes to the CBD. The space is inspired by the famous markets of Barcelona (‘mercado’ is Spanish for ‘market,’ FYI), and is set to feature Migas’ award-winning Spanish gastronomy and mouth-watering cocktails alongside a picture-perfect view of Beijing’s iconic CCTV Headquarters. So whether you’re stopping by for a quick lunch or long, riotous Friday night, grab a drink and enjoy. Daily, 11am-late; 7/F China World Mall, 1 Jianguomen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸商城7层 (6500 7579) Celebrate moms (or yourself, if you are a mom) with a delicious, family- friendly brunch at Chapter. Conrad Farm to Neighbors is teaming up Beijing’s beautiful library will play with The Hutong for an educational host to an abundance of high- yet fun day centered around sus- quality seafood, including sushi and tainable food. Stop by for a farmers sashimi. This, alongside the starters, market, DIY tea workshop, home grilled selections and Chocolate gardening workshop, plus extra Boutique make for the perfect treat. food and drink vendors on The Sun May 14, noon-2.30pm; RMB318 Hutong’s rooftop. And as a bonus, per person plus 15-percent service you can also learn how to make charge; Add RMB148 plus 15-percent Celebrity Chef Jamie Oliver’s healthy service charge for free-flow Perrier Vietnamese spring rolls. Jouët Champagne; Chapter (see Sat May 20, 11am-5pm; The Hutong Listings for details) (see Listings for details)

66 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Australian Writers Week / Culture Tranquility Exhibition

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Artist Zhang Jian’s latest solo exhibition – the artist’s first in China in 10 years – An Art Show Vol. 9 Performance The 10th anniversary edition of Australian Writers Week in China brings to- presents work from his ‘Daily Scenery’ gether a host of leading Australian authors to participate in a week of literary series. Using different techniques, the An Art Show Vol. 9 focuses on events around the country. The lineup includes Man Booker Prize winner Tom works take on a more abstract form music, digital art and animation Keneally (see our interview, page 38), Pulitzer Prize winner Geraldine Brooks, than Zhang’s previous work. By using with artists including A.Borealis celebrated young adult fiction author John Marsden (of the Tomorrow series), wild brush strokes and vivid colors, (AKA founder Shannon Lethbridge); and acclaimed indigenous children’s author and illustrator Bronwyn Bancroft. Zhang focuses more on conveying Tendai Msimang, a digital graphic Events include workshops, readings, talks and more, while the tour covers mood, rather than detail. Rural and designer from South Africa; and various cities such as Beijing, Shanghai, Chengdu, Xi’an, Guangzhou, Hohhot urban scenes form the subjects of his Yahkehbu, a composer and per- and Harbin. The annual Writers Weeks aims to raise awareness of the diver- work, yet they are simply drawn and former who specializes in playing sity of Australian literature – a must for book-lovers. illustrated in a notably impressionist the guqin, an ancient seven-stringed Wed May 10-Thu May 18; various locations; for up-to-date information visit www. style. Chinese instrument. A platform for china.embassy.gov.au Through May 28, Tue-Sun, 10am- music and art, An Art Show was cre- 6pm; PIFO Gallery, B-11, 798 Art ated over a year ago by Lethbridge. District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang Vol. 9 is Lethbridge’s final show. 朝阳区798艺术区酒仙桥路2号B-11 Sat May 13, 7.30pm; RMB50; (5978 9562) Fruityspace, 13 Meishiguan Dongjie, Dongcheng 东城区美术馆东街13号 Beijing Broads Comedy Art Theater

Yasmina Reza’s Art is a play about three best friends who find their Beijing Broads (BB) is China’s “first friendship on shaky ground after all-female improv and sketch comedy one of them spends 100,000 euros group.” By focusing on female-driven on a painting that resembles little comedy, BB provides a platform for more than a blank white canvas. women to get involved in the city’s The comedy raises questions of comedy scene, without compromis- friendship and art as the friends ing their ideals or sense of humor. fight over the painting and relation- Made up of members from six ships. different countries, the group has Thu May 11-Sat May 13, 7.30-9pm, been performing for two years. All Sun May 14, 2.30-4pm; RMB100 proceeds go to charity organization (RMB70 students); Penghao Educating Girls in Rural China. Theater, 35 Dongmianhua Hutong, Fri May 26, 8pm; RMB50; 4Corners Dongcheng东城区东棉花胡同35号 (see Listings for details); for more (for ticket information email carlo- information visit www.beijing- [email protected]) broads.com

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 67 EVENTS Happy hours Meal deals WEEKLY SPECIALS Brunch Ladies' nights Food and Drink

Tiago Home Kitchen

Tiago may be officially named “Tiago Home Kitchen,” but this ain’t your mama’s kitchen. Located inside Indigo and Joy City malls, this fun, family-friendly restaurant serves up some delectable pizzas, pastas and salads. Most dishes are distinctly Italian – we’re talking squid-ink seafood risotto, wild mushroom salad and, of course, tiramisu. But the chefs over at Tiago Home Kitchen also like to put their own unique Beijing spin on things. (The Peking duck pizza is a prime example.) But recently Tiago’s menu has gotten a makeover. The new menu features a bunch of Italian dishes, but there’s a few not-so-Italian selec- tion as well. Expect to find everything from foie gras with fruit jam to fully loaded salads and shareable seafood platters. The steaks are also a welcome protein punch after a busy afternoon shopping. And yes, Tiago has even made some adjustments to their dessert menu, with a new matcha tiramisu. But don’t worry – the restaurant still serves its signature tiramisu.

Tiago Home Kitchen (see Listings for details)

MONDAY to FRIDAY

MONDAY > RMB118/person, Mon-Fri, 12pm- WEDNESDAY THURSDAY 2:30pm, Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Mai Bar Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那 SIZZLER Domain Buy two cocktails, get one free. 里花园4楼D308号 (5208 6188 ) After 4pm, get 29 percent off your bill. Happy Burger’s Day, 2 for 1 Burger > 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区 > 3/F Shimao Plaza, 12 Gongti Beilu, promotion. 北锣鼓巷40号 (138 1125 2641) Greyhound Café Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路12号楼世茂广 > 10.30am-2pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Only RMB28 for a Tsingtao or Bud, and 场3楼 (8400 4773) Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号2层 (8414 MONDAY TO THURSDAY RMB38 for a mojito or dry martini, 5-7pm. 9830) > Greyhound Cafe (see listings for Mao Mao Chong XIU details) Cocktails RMB35, 7-11pm. Opus Terrace Buy-one-get-one-free on selected drinks, > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Ladies enjoy free cocktails; on Fridays, 6-9pm. Village Café Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区交道口南大街板 it’s bachelors night, where chaps get > 6/F, Park Hyatt Beijing, 2 Jianwai Dajie, Set Lunch, RMB98+15% (3 courses), 厂胡同12号 (6405 5718) 50 percent off beer and burgers at the Chaoyang 北京柏悦酒店, 朝阳区建国门外 RMB88+15% (2 courses) same times, 5-8pm. 大街2号6楼 (8567 1108) > 11.30am-2.30pm, Bldg 1, The Opposite MEI > Opus Bar & Terrace, 48 Liangmaqiao House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳 ‘Modern 80s’ themed music all night Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路48号 MONDAY TO FRIDAY 区三里屯路11号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 alongside 50-percent off deals on (5695 8888) 5210) bottles of Belvedere vodka. One East > 5F Rosewood Beijing, Jing Guang MEI Two-course set lunch: RMB118/ per MEI Centre, Hujialou, Chaoyang 朝阳区呼家 Free martinis for ladies from 9-11pm person, 12:00-2:30pm. All cocktails 50-percent off from 6-9pm. 楼一号京广中心北京瑰丽酒店3层 (6536 followed by a midnight lucky draw. 2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road, > 5F Rosewood Beijing, Jing Guang 0083) > 5F Rosewood Beijing, Jing Guang North Dong Sanhuan Road, Chaoyang Centre, Hujialou, Chaoyang 朝阳区呼家 Centre, Hujialou, Chaoyang 朝阳区呼家 朝阳区东三环北路东方路一号北京希尔顿 楼一号京广中心北京瑰丽酒店3层 (6536 Elements 楼一号京广中心北京瑰丽酒店3层 (6536 酒店2层 (5865 5030) 0083) Free mojitos, champagne and cosmos, 0083) 9pm-1am. > 58 Gongti Xi Men, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 Tiago 11.30am-2pm, free soft drink or juice MONDAY TO SATURDAY 体西门58号 (6551 2373) 5.30-8.30pm, RMB100 for free flow on with any burger or salad or add RMB5 Twilight selected alcoholic beverages. for a Pale Ale #6. Mon-Sat before 8pm and all day Sun, 4Corners > Shop L173, Indigo Mall, 18 Jiuxianqiao > At Xinzhong Lu branch only, (see RMB20 off cocktails. Ladies get 15 percent off red wine. Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港 Listings for details) > 0102, 3/F, Bldg 5, Jianwai SOHO, 39 cheap shots and drink deals at 4Corners’ 购物中心L173商铺 6438 8772 Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝 weekly celebration of KTV. Hagaki 阳区东三环39号建外SOHO5号3层0102室 > Dashibei Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区石 FRIDAY Set lunch, 11.30am-3pm, Bento style (5900 5376) 杯胡同7号 (6401 7797) lunch set from RMB58 with no service Mesh charge. Xian House Champagne buy 1 bottle get 1 5-10pm, Daiginjo Sake promotion, TUESDAY Whiskey night, discounts on special free. RMB550 / 150 Bottle / Carafe. Pebbles selected whiskeys. > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 > 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳 Just RMB10 per taco – order as many as > All night, 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 区酒仙桥路22号1层 (8414 9815) you want. Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号1层 (8414 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5220) > Midday to midnight; 74 Wudaoying 9810) Agua Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同74 Agua’s new set lunch menu is RMB118/ 号 (8404 0767) person for three courses.

68 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EVENTS

EVERY DAY

Parlor Flamme 南街A-11 (8563 6215) and vegetables each, varying daily. With Daily 6-8pm, buy one get one for free. Cocktail, beers and wine by the glass are R Lounge soup, appetizer for RMB78. Curry sets > 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸 50 percent off from 3-7.30pm daily. Daily 6-9pm, two-for-one standard from RMB55-65 福二村39-8 (8444 4135 ) > S4-33, 3/F, Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun drinks and cocktails. > See Listings for details Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯 > 4/F, Renaissance Beijing Capital Hotel, The Big Smoke 太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608) 61 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝 Beijing Marriott Hotel Daily 4-7pm, 20 percent off all cocktails, 阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店4 Daily 11.30-2pm, dumplings, noodles house wines and beers. Modo Urban Deli 层 (5863 8112) and desserts, including juice or tea, > 57 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳 4-7pm cocktails and house wine RMB25 RMB118. Sun/Sat 11.30-2pm, dim sum, 区幸福村中路57号楼利世楼 (6416 2683) and beer RMB15. Transit lobster and unlimited beer, RMB168. > S10-31, 3/F, Bldg 8, Sanlitun Taikooli Daily 6pm-7:30pm, two-for-one. > 26A Xiaoyun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区霄 Blue Frog South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区 > N4-36, Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11 云路甲26号 北京海航大厦万豪酒店(5927 Daily 4-8pm, buy-one-get-one-free all 三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区8号楼S10- Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 8888) drinks. 31 (6415 7207) 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) > Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, Vivid S2 Tower, S2-30 Taikoo Li, Sanlitun Lu, Mosaic Isola Daily, 6pm-10pm, two-for-one drinks. Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路太 4-8pm daily happy hour. 11:30am-3pm. Lunch for RMB138. > Vivid, Level 5, Conrad Beijing, 29 North 古里3层S2-30 (6417 4030) Additional > Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St 3-6pm Fashion high tea Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东 branches in Jiuxianqiao and U-Town (see (Behind/North of Yashow Silk Market), 5-8pm Happy hour, two-for-one on 三环北路29号北京康莱德酒店5层 (6584 www.bluefrog.com.cn for details) Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32号楼临街店 selected drinks 6310) (137 1883 7065) 6-10:30 Dinner set menu, 2-course Centro RMB238, 3-course RMB258. Transit Daily 5-8pm, two-for-one deals. Mosto > N3-47, 3/F, Building 3, Taikoo Li North, Daily 12pm-2.30pm. Choice of > Shangri-la’s Kerry Centre Hotel Beijing, 6-7pm discounts on cocktails, wine and Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院太古里 appetizers, mains, rice or noodles with 1/F, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光 beer. 北区N3-37和 47商铺 (6416 3499) dessert for RMB88. 华路1号香格里拉北京嘉里中心大酒店1层 > 3/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, > N4-36/37 Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11 (6561 8833 ext. 42) Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花 Bene Restaurant Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 园3层 (5208 6030) Daily 11.30am-2pm. RMB98 includes 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) Feast (Food by East) antipasto with main course, pizza or Works for dinner, 2 course RMB168+15% NOLA pasta. Tiago with a glass of wine or soft drinks. 3-8pm. Sun-Thu, half price on Pabst > Sheraton Dongcheng, 36 Beisanhuan Buy one, get from free refill during > 5.30-10.30pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Blue Ribbon, Tsingtao and all cocktails Donglu, Dongcheng 东城区北三环东路 happy hour, 4-8pm. Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号2层 (8414 including daiquiris. 36号 (5798 8888) > Shop L173, Indigo Mall, 18 Jiuxianqiao 9820) > A-11 Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港 Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街秀水 Cafe Sambal 购物中心L173商铺 6438 8772 Nasi Campur Malaysian set: two meats

WEEKEND

SATURDAY Dom Perignon for RMB1988 for two. Vasco’s Eudora Station > Ritz-Carlton , Sun 11.30am-3pm, international buffet Sat-Sun 10am-3pm, breakfast buffet with Great Leap Brewing Jinchengfang Dong, 1 Jinrong Jie, with free-flow champagne for RMB458 one main and free flow juice or coffee All day Tuesday and Sunday, one select Xicheng 西城区金城坊东金融街1号 (6601 plus 15 percent service charge. for RMB98. beer at RMB25. 6666) > Hilton Beijing Wangfujing, 8 > Opposite Lido Palace, 6 Fangyuan Xi >At Xinzhong Lu branch, (see listings for Wangfujing Dongjie, Dongcheng 东城区 Lu. Chaoyang 朝阳区芳园西路6号(6437 details) Senses and Prego 王府井东街8号(5812 8888 ext. 8411) 8331) Sun 11.30am-3pm, Retrolicious R Lounge Champagne Brunch, international Migas Selection of drinks for free all night. and Asian specialties with free flow SATURDAY TO SUNDAY Migas rocks two different brunch > 61 Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang champagne, wines, cocktails and juices Agua options: Saturday, grilled meat heavy; 朝阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店 for RMB 458. Prices subject to 15 percent Sat-Sun, Agua’s Infinity Weekend Brunch and Sunday, paella heavy (both RMB210, 4层 (5863 8241) service. is RMB298 for infinite food, plus RMB168 +RMB138 for 2hrs free flow cava, coffee, > The Westin Beijing Financial Street, 9B for free flow drinks. tea soft drinks). SUNDAY Financial Street, Xicheng 西城区金融大街 > 12-2:30pm (free flow until 3pm), > Daily 12pm-3pm; Migas 6/F Nali Patio, 乙9号(6629 7810) Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯 Great Leap Brewing Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花 北街那里花园6层 All day Tuesday and Sunday, one select Seasonal Tastes 园4楼D308号 (5208 6188) beer at RMB25. Sun 11.30am-3pm Unlimited buffet for Sui Yuan >At Xinzhong Lu branch, (see listings for RMB428-498 per person plus 15 percent Aroma Sat-Sun and public holidays 10.30am- details) surcharge. Sat-Sun 11.30am-3pm, international 2.30pm, unlimited dim sum for RMB128 > Westin Chaoyang, 7 North buffet starting at RMB518 plus 15 plus 15 percent surcharge. The Village Cafe Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东 percent service charge. > Hilton Double Tree, 168 Guang’anmen Sun 3:30pm-sold out. Sunday roast 三环北路7号(5922 8880) > Ritz-Carlton Beijing, 83A Jianguo Lu, Waidajie, Xicheng 西城区广安门外大街 RMB98 (+15%; 50% off for kids under China Central Place, Chaoyang 朝阳区建 168号 (6338 1999 ext. 1726) 12) Sureño 国路83甲(5908 8161) > The Opposite House, Building 1, No. 11 RMB228 for 2 courses, RMB328 for 3 Tiago Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路 courses. Supplement RMB150 for free Café Sambal Weekend brunch from noon-4pm. 11 号院 1 号楼瑜舍酒店 flow cocktails; supplement RMB200 for Sat-Sun, RMB98, Café Sambal is rolling > Shop L173, Indigo Mall, 18 Jiuxianqiao free flow Champaign (all prices subject out weekend brunch. Three courses plus Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港 Qi to 15% service charge) coffee, tea or fruit punch. 购物中心L173商铺 6438 8772 Sun 11.30am-2pm, all-you-can-eat dim > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 > 43 Doufuchi Hutong, Jiugulou Dajie, sum including one double-boiled soup Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同 for RMB288 per person. Add a bottle of 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5240) 43号 (6400 4875)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 69 Expensive...... ¥ Expense Account ...... ¥¥ Highly Recommended ...... * LISTINGS Top Ten ...... ** venue’s a class act and the plum sauce is OPEN DOOR RESTAURANTS hard to follow. > Daily 11am-10pm; 22 Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四十条甲22号 (5169 0328); see www.dadon- The Hot One Hundred gdadong.com for more locations About This guide represents our editors’ top 100 picks, and includes some That’s Duck de Chine 全鸭季 ¥ * Beijing advertisers. Restaurants rated(*) Good duck is meant to show your guests have been personally reviewed by our how wonderful you are, as much as the experts, and scored according to the food. Duck De Chine does that in spades, cuisine, experience and affordability. with fantastic presentation of its crispy, succulent duck (RMB188). > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm; Courtyard 4, CHINESE 1949 The Hidden City, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝 阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8881) ; 98 Jinbao Jie, Contemporary & Mixed Cuisine Dongcheng 东城区金宝街98号 (6521 2221) 8 Qi Nian 祈年8号 (Cantonese/Sichuan) Xihe Village Restaurant and Bar The New World Hotel’s flagship restaurant > Mon-Fri Lunch: 11am-2.30pm; Dinner: 5-9pm; has classic Chinese cuisine in abundance, Sun: 11am-9pm, S9-33, 3/F, South Area of Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19 as well as some vitality-restoring medicinal 号三里屯太古里南区三层S9-33(6417 6082) soups. (Their decent wine list is just as effective.) > Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:15pm, 5:30-9:30pm, Sat/Sun Shanghai 12-2:45pm, 5:30-9:30pm; 2/F, New World Hotel, 8 Shanghai Min 小南国 Qinian Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区祈年大街8号新世界 酒店2层 (5960 8822) Many swear this chain has the best Shanghai-style hongshaorou north of the Din Tai Fung 鼎泰丰 ¥ (Taiwanese) Yangtze. The jury’s out, but its popularity This Taipei-based franchise impressed Ken remains. Hom enough to call it one of the best 10 > 0505, 5/F Raffles City Mall, 1 Dongzhimen Nan eateries in the world, back in 1993. Famous Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门南大街1号来福士 for its dependably delicious xiaolongbao 购物中心5楼0505号铺 (400 820 9777)> Additional branches in Financial Street; Jinbao Jie; Oriental or little steam buns. Book ahead, there’s Plaza; Sanlitun Soho; Xinyuan Nan Lu (see www. always a long wait. online.thatsmags.com for details) > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm, weekends 11.30am-10pm; 24 Middle Street, Xinyuanxili, Wang Jia Sha 王家沙 朝阳区新源西里中街 号 近渔阳饭店 Chaoyang 24 ( ) Modern Shanghai cuisine – popular with (6462 4502) > Additional branches in Shin Kong Place; Parkview Green; Grand Pacific Mall Xidan; Hong Kong celebrities – famed for its crab- Modern Plaza Zhongguancun; see www.dintaifung. meat dumplings. Try the spiced-salt ribs com.cn for details (RMB62) for a bit of Adam action. > Daily, S1-30a (on the third floor Jing Yaa Tang 京雅堂 (Chinese, Peking of i.t shop) 朝阳区三里屯路19号院太古里1号楼3层 Duck) S1-30a号商铺 (6416 3469) Resembling something between a night- club and a theater, the Opposite House’s Sichuan/Hunan basement restaurant proves to be more Chuan Ban 川办 * than just style over substance with their This bright, modestly decorated dining hall range of expertly prepared classic dishes. > Daily 12-10:30pm, B1/F, The Opposite House, is frequently cited as Beijing’s best Sichuan Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号 restaurant. 楼瑜舍酒B1楼 (6410 5230) > Mon-Fri 7-9am, 10.50am-2pm, 4.50-9.30pm; Sat- Sun 7am-10pm; 5 Gongyuan Toutiao, Jianguomennei Wu Li Xiang 屋里香 (Cantonese, Sichuan) * Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区建国门内贡院头条5号 (6512 Impressive views don’t detract from the 2277, ext. 6101) exquisitely presented cuisine of Chef Kam, Karaiya Spice House 辣屋 * especially the dim sum. Swanky classics Bold and fiery Hunan cuisine in the most from all the main culinary regions of China, serene of restaurant interiors. Don’t miss including, of course, “Monk Jump Over the Wall” – braised pork in oyster sauce. the dry roasted duck with a dozen spices > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm; 2-3/F, Traders Upper and stir fried bullfrog with shiso leaves and East Hotel, Beijing, 2 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang ginger. Peanut milk is there to soothe the 朝阳区东四环北路2号北京上东盛贸饭店二三层 palate: you’ll need it. (5907 8406) > Daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-10pm; 3/F, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里19号 Peking Duck 院南区三层S9-30 (6415 3535) The Horizon 海天阁 (Cantonese Beijing South Memory 望湘园 V SHINE OYSTER BAR Duck) ** This restaurant chain is the Hunan staple Kerry Hotel’s Chinese restaurant has in the capital. The trademark shilixiang widened its predominantly Cantonese niurou (fragrant beef), duojiao shuangse Raise the Oyster Bar and Sichuan horizons to include dim sum, yutou (dual-colour spiced fish head) and double-boiled soups and Peking duck – and meltingly tender frog dishes are among the the roast bird here really is fabulous. favorites with locals. V Shine’s entrance may look unassuming, but walk through and you’ll find a > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5:30pm-10pm 1/F, Beijing > Daily 11am-10pm; 2/F, 230-232, Fenglian Plaza, 18 treasure trove of European antiques, movie posters and, most importantly, Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路 Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街 1号嘉里中心1层 (8565 2188) 18号丰联广场2楼230-232号 (6588 1797); see www. sumptuous oysters. Found in the basement of Topwin Center, this recently southmemory.com for more locations opened restaurant is bringing a touch of class to Sanlitun’s newest food desti- Honglu 红炉 Yu Xin 渝信川菜 nation. >Daily 11am-9.30pm, 5/F Beijing Raffles City, 1 Dongzhimen Nan Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门 Open since 1993, Yu Xin’s authentic Sichuan But this doesn’t mean you’ve got to spend a month’s wages to get your fix. 南大街1号北京来福士购物中心05层01号(8409 8199 dishes have earned a loyal fanbase. Their V Shine wants to bring this fine delicacy to the people, and single oysters (from / 84094310); Daily 11am-10pm, 6 Sanlitun Nanlu, liangfen – a jelly-like substance cut into Chaoyang朝阳区三里屯南6号楼南侧60米(6595 9872 chunky strips and dressed in an addictive France or New Zealand) will only set you back between RMB48 and RMB86. / 6593 8970) spicy sauce – hits the spot. The rustic, inti- Deals are available when you buy a dozen or half-dozen of the same variety. mate setting of bamboo cubicles and swift, Country Kitchen friendly service complete the experience. And if you don’t know your Belon from your Gillardeau, there are helpful The name ‘Country Kitchen’ may sound like > Daily 11am-10pm; 5A Xingfu Yicun Xili, Chaoyang tasting notes in the menu to guide you through. Better still, try a selection of a diner, but a diner this is not. Rosewood 朝阳区幸福一村西里甲5号 see www.yuxin1997.com Beijing’s resplendent Northern Chinese for other locations. different oysters with the oyster platter (RMB388 for 6, RMB768 for 12), which restaurant serves elegant Hebei fare unlike brings together a curated selection of different flavor profiles. Regardless of you’ve ever had. Excellent peking duck is Transit 渡金湖 ¥¥ ** which type you choose, be assured of this: All the oysters you try at V Shine on offer as well. Sichuan is known for its blazing spices and > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm and 5.30-10:30pm; 3F hot climate. While the latter isn’t able to were alive – and in the sea – the day before. They’re that fresh, and they taste it. Rosewood Beijing, , Hujialou, be replicated, the creative minds at Transit Don’t fancy oysters? Fear not: The menu here also boasts tapas, salads, Chaoyang 朝阳区呼家楼一号京广中心北京瑰丽酒店 have made some fiery additions to the clas- 3层 (6597 8888) soups and main courses ranging from steaks (from RMB238) to fish and chips sical, chili-thumping canon, and they will Da Dong 大董 charge you for that knowledge. But unlike (RMB68). With something for everyone, V Shine truly is your oyster. Among the city’s most famous haunts, Da many equally expensive joints, this is high- > B1-11, Topwin Center, 1 Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯1号通盈中心B1- Dong guarantees slick cuts of Beijing-style end Chinese dining at its best. > Daily 12-2.30pm, 6 -10pm; N4-36, Sanlitun Taikoo Li 11 (5619 2619) roast duck and delectable wrap fillings. The

70 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM LISTINGS

North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 native green gourmet option in town. 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) >Mon-Fri: 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm; Sat-Sun: 11am- OPEN DOOR 2.30pm, 5.30-10pm; 1/F, NUO Hotel Beijing, 2A Yunnan Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区将台路甲2号北京诺金酒 店一层(5926 8281) Dali Courtyard 大里院子 * If you like authentic Yunnanese food, you’ll Da Gui (Guizhou) have to trust the staff: there’s no menu, it Guizhou’s famed hot-and-sour cuisine nes- all just arrives in an intimate courtyard set- tled into a charming traditional alleyway. ting. The price (RMB120/person) matches Munch happily into pickled greens and the rustic ingredients. don’t miss the salty-sweet deep-fried black > Daily 12-2pm, 6-10.30pm; Gulou Dong Dajie, 67 sesame balls. They’re sensational. Xiaojingchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大 > Daily 10am-2pm, 5-10pm; 69 Daxing Hutong, 街小经厂胡同67号 (8404 1430) Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng 东城区交道口大兴胡同69 号 (6407 1800) Lost Heaven 花马天堂 (Yunnan, SE Asian) An emphasis on Yunnan characterizes this Jia Chinese Restaurant禾家中餐厅Makye menu’s fresh journey through the SE Asia Ame (Tibetan) passage, with a grandiose yet dark teak Determined to prove that Tibetan cuisine interior. consists of more than just yak-butter tea, > Daily noon-2pm, 5pm-10.30 (bar open till 1am). the Beijing branch of this nationwide chain Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng serves up nomadic classics such as curried 东城区前门东大街23号(8516 2698) potatoes and roast lamb. > Daily 10-midnight; 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Middle 8 Restaurant 中8楼 * Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外秀水南街 甲11号 (6506 9616)

Xinjiang Red Rose (Xinjiang) * One of Beijing’s most famous Xinjiang restaurant, Red Rose serves some of the tenderest lamb skewers around, matched by enormous servings of classics like da- panji (a chicken, potato and pepper stew), latiaozi (noodles with a spicy tomato sauce) and nang (baked flatbrea). > Daily 10.30am-11pm; Inside 7 Xingfuyicun, oppo- site Workers’ Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区 工人体育场北门对面幸福一村7巷内 (6415 5741) WESTERN Fine Dining

An oasis at the top of Taikoo Li, Middle 8 Barolo ¥¥ (Italian) * is the go-to destination for fresh authentic Average Italian abounds in Beijing: not Yunnan cuisine. The restaurant, stylish yet here, though. Quite the opposite, in fact, understated, has plenty of flavorsome well- meaning Barolo is as well-regarded as the priced dishes and a killer view to boot. Piedmont wine it is named after. > Mon-Sun 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm. Ritz Carlton > Sanlitun: Daily 11am-10pm, Taikoo Li Sanlitun Hotel, China Central Place, 83A Jianguo Lu, South South Area F4, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古 Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路甲83号华贸中心丽思卡尔顿 里南区4层(6415 8858); Indigo: Daily 11am-10pm, Jiuxianqiao Road No.20 Indigo F2 , Chaoyang 朝阳区 酒店内 (5908 8151) 酒仙桥路20号颐堤港2层(8420 0883); Zhongguancun: Daily 11am-10pm, Zhongguancun Plaza Pedestrian Maison Flo ¥¥ (French) * Street, No.R17, Haidian海淀区中关村广场步行街R17 Marble slabs, mosaic floors and brass 号(5172 1728); Fenglan: Daily 11am-10pm, Xizhimen fittings establish the Parisian bona fides; North Street No.32 Maples International Center Blok dishes like snails (RMB78), oysters (RMB48 B, 1 Floor, Haidian海淀区西直门大街32号枫蓝国际中 each) and steak tartare (RMB158) confirm. 心B座1层(6223 5583) The grandeur is matched only by the ser- vice, and the prices reflect the authenticity Yun’er Small Town 云洱小镇 of the experience. Folksy and affordable Yunnanese fare on > Daily 11am-midnight; 18 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang 朝 Beiluoguxiang. Fragrant dishes including 阳区霄云路18号 (6595 5135) the jasmine bulbs with scrambled eggs, lemongrass shrimp and banana leaf The Georg ** wrapped bolete mushrooms will keep us This hutong mansion has an elegant crawling back. restaurant, leather-couched lounge area, > Daily 10am-11pm, 84 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng sleek bar and sick location near Houhai. But 东城区北锣鼓巷84号 (8404 2407) most importantly, it has some of the most thoughtful, innovative cuisine in town. Go Dumplings for a dinner you won’t forget. >10.30am-midnight (dinner 6-10.30pm), closed Baoyuan Jiaoziwu 宝源饺子屋 Mondays; 45 Dongbuyaqiao Hutong, Dongcheng 东 Famous for their rainbow of dyed dump- 城区东不压桥胡同45号 (8408 5300) lings, Baoyuan have their jiaozi (six, under RMB10) wrapped in a larger yuanbao Capital M ¥ (Contemporary Western) ** silver-ingot shape, with creative vegetarian The Art Deco interior, swish staff and options and authentic Sichuan food. breathtaking views over the archery towers > Daily 11am-10pm; north of 6 Maizidian Jie, from Qianmen ensures the pinnacle of Chaoyang 朝阳区麦子店街6号楼北侧 (6586 4967) al-fresco dining, with world-class modern European stylings and deliciously posh Mr Shi’s Dumplings 老石饺子馆 afternoon tea. Since recieving a Lonely Planet recommen- > Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Floor 3, 2 Qianmen dation the prices have risen and the walls Buxingjie, Dongcheng 东城区前门步行街2号3层 are covered in backpackers’ scribbles, but (6702 2727) the fantastic dumplings – boiled and fried – are still fantastic. Héritage ¥¥ LEGEND BEER > 74 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, A French country-style chateau in the Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同74号 (8405 heart of Beijing. A chef de cuisine with 0399, 131 6100 3826) Michelin star restaurant experience and an Have a Legendary Weekend extensive wine cellar make this Sofitel Hotel Regional restaurant one of the best French dining Warm weather is here – it’s time to have a beer. More specifically, it’s time to experiences in town. Crescent Moon (Xinjiang) * > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, grab a brewski at Legend Beer’s spacious terrace. The spot, outfitted with plush Roast mutton enthusiasts go over the 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场 couches and chairs, is conveniently located in the heart of Gongti. (So if you moon at this reputable Xinjiang Muslim C座索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666) fancy a spot of clubbing later, you’re in good hands.) restaurant. Eastern European and Central Asian influences are evident throughout, Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB) ¥¥ ** But there’s more to Legend than good vibes and beer. The brewery has re- with peppery and cumin-spiced dishes Setting is everything here, especially if cently launched a new menu. And whether you’re looking to impress a date or livening up traditional Chinese favorites. it’s fashioned inside a restored Buddhist > Daily 10am-11:30pm; 16 Dongsi Liutiao, temple. The bold contemporary European soak up a hangover, the menu has something you’re bound to love. Take the Dongcheng 东四六条16号 (6400 5281) cuisine is fitting in majesty and the service BBQ Kebab Platter (RMB108), for example, which is way better than your greasy alone is worthy of worship. neighborhood chuan’r – stacked with grilled bell peppers and tasty hunks of (Cantonese) > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10pm; 23 Songzhusi Featuring modern Ming elements with Temple, Shatan Beijie, Dongcheng 东城区沙滩北街嵩 beef, it’s the perfect snack to have with beer. Meanwhile, the paella (RMB98) inspired paintings from Xu Wei, a painter, 祝寺23号 (8400 2232) comes topped with all sorts of tasty seafood, and is perfect for sharing with calligrapher and food and wine connois- seur, the quintessentially authentic house Mio ¥¥ friends. But just because you’re at a brewery doesn’t mean you can’t be healthy of agriculture produces, Jia Chinese restau- Glitzy Italian fare at the Four Seasons, with – try the roasted prawns on avocado (RMB38) for a light, healthy bite. a mobile Bellini cart, wheeled straight to rant serves exquisite traditional Cantonese There’s something for everyone on this menu. So drop by with your friends, specialties in their purest form with chefs your table.The Chef crafts a superb squash hailing from Hong Kong. Using the freshest tortellini by hand, and pampers diners with and get ready to say “cheers.” ingredients from NUO’s very own green desserts like the deconstructed tiramisu. > Daily, 11am-3am; Worker’s Stadium West Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体西路工人 farms, NUO Hotel Beijing provides an alter- >Daily lunch 11.30am - 2.30pm, dinner 5.30pm -10.30pm, Four Seasons Hotel, 48 Liangmaqiao 体育场西门(6551 9026)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 71 LISTINGS

JF Royal Teahouse airy and with a terrace for summer, the only OPEN DOOR >Daily 10am-9:30pm;B215 China World Trade downside is it’s always packed. Center Tower 3, Jintong East Road,Chaoyang Beijing > Daily 9.30am-midnight,42 Gulou Dongdajie, 北京市朝阳区国贸商城区域3 地下二层B215(8535 Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街42号 (8403 9807) 1625) Domain 域 Miss K Cafe (Xing Fu Cafe) A blend of café, business center and Whether it’s a rainy morning or a sunny af- lounge, it has a gentle buzz all of its own. ternoon, relax with your favorite novel and For privacy, Domain also provides worksta- a cup of freshly brewed coffee. Experience tions equipped with computers and ipads. a quiet moment of serenity amid the hustle >Daily 7am-8pm, 2/F, EAST Beijing, 22 Jiuxianqiao and bustle of Beijing. Lu,Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号东隅酒店2层 >Daily, 8am-8.30pm; 1/F, Tower A, East Gate Plaza, (8414 9830) Dongzhimen, Dongcheng 东城区东直门东环广场A座 一层幸福咖啡馆 (6418 1096) Café Flatwhite Hailing from New Zealand, Café Flatwhite Mosto (European, South American) ¥ * uses fresh and healthy ingredients in its A perpetually busy lunch and evening spot, tasty selection of sandwiches, pizzas, salads thanks to chef Daniel Urdaneta’s skill for and brunch options, all served alongside modernising South American-style dishes some of the best coffee in Beijing. like ceviche and risotto in his open kitchen. > Open Daily, Mon-Fri 8am-9pm, Sat-Sun 9am-9pm; > Sun-Thu noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; Fri-Sat noon- 798 Art District Store: D09-1, No.4, 798 2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Dashanzi Art District, Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 (5208 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号 798艺术区D09-1 (5978 9067 / 6030) 13051771436); Jianguomenwai DRC Store: Building 7-1-11, 1 , Chaoyang 朝阳区秀水街1号建 Sizzler 国门外外交公寓7-1-11 (8532 2633 / 18701092189); Sizzler invented ‘casual dining’ in Australia FFCStore:-107,B1/F,Fortune Financial Center,5 when it introduced the first soup, salad, Dongsanhuan Zhonglu,Chaoyang District朝阳区东三 pasta and fresh fruit concept. Since those 环中路5号楼财富金融中心1层107 (6596 9108); China pioneering days, it has expanded its ‘classic Central Mall Store:L315,China Central Mall,Chaoyang grill’ to include, not only steak and sea- District朝阳区华贸中心写字楼三层L315单元 (8588 7978)www.cafeflatwhite.com, cafeflatwhite@hot- food, but also delicious chicken dishes, BBQ mail.com, WeChat username: Cafe-Flatwhite ribs, combination meals and burgers. ‘Variety’ and ‘freedom to choose’ set Sizzler awfullychocolate HIGH TOWN apart from other dining experiences. At This place is anything but awful. The cakes, Sizzler customers are free to control the ice creams and pastries are enough to volume, nutritional balance and variety of satisfy any sweet tooth. High But Not Dry each meal by ordering from the grill and >Daily 9am-10.30pm, 1) Sanlitun: Opposite to BHG, helping themselves to our famous soup, B1/F, Southern area of Taikooli, Sanlitun, Chaoyang salad, pasta and fruits. 朝阳区三里屯太古里地下一层华联超市对面 (8468 Nali Patio’s High Town is a top spot to fuel up before a night out or simply chill >All stores open daily, 10am-10pm ;Wangfujing 3802); 2) Indigo: B1/F, Indigo Mall, 18 Jiuxianqiao Oriental Plaza Store 王府井东方广场店 (8518 6315); Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港地下一 out for the evening thanks to its casual environment and great-value food and Chongwenmen Glory Mall Store 崇文门国瑞购物中 层 (8426 0917); 3) Joy City Chaoyang: 5/F Joy City drink. Fuel your night out with one (or two or three) of High Town’s craft beers. 心店 (6714 0399); Wangjing Capital Mall 望京凯德购 Chaoyang, Qingnian Lu, Chaoyang Beilu, Chaoyang 物中心店 (6471 3876); Wanliu BHG 万柳华联商场店 朝阳区朝阳北路青年路朝阳大悦城5楼悦界区 (8582 Along with its own brews, such as the refreshing osmanthus ale (RMB40) and (8258 9405) Wan Shoulu Crystal Capital Mall 万寿路 2677); 4) Raffles City: B1/F, Raffles City, Dongzhimen, heady milk stout (RMB50), High Town also offers a range of guest craft beers. 凯德晶品店 (6826 086); Xizhimen Capital Mall 西直 Dongcheng 东城区东直门来福士地下一层 (8409 8038) Try the rich Kentucky Bourbon barrel ale (RMB60). Meanwhile the kitchen of- 门凯德购物中心店Mall (5830 2199); Sanlitun Shimao Gongsan 三里屯世茂工三店 (8400 4014); Changying Element Fresh (Contemporary Western) fers hearty food to go alongside its brews. For something light we suggest the Paradise Walk 常营龙湖天街店 (8539 0438); Tianjin Chain of restaurants and one of the longest avocado salad (RMB58) or, on the opposite spectrum, the BBQ pork ribs with Joy City 天津大悦城店 (8728 1620) running with quality ingredients and good service. One of the mainstays in Beijing. French fries and apple cranberry salad (large RMB168, small RMB98). The English Tearoom英国茶房 > Daily Mon-Fri 10am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am-11pm. > Daily, 10am-midnight; D205, 2/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang >Daily 10am-9.30pm; 101, Bldg 10, North area of 833, Building 8, 19 Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, Sanlitun Xiangyun Town, 9 Antai Dajie, Shunyi 顺义区安泰 Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区 大街9号院中粮祥云小镇北区10号楼101(8047 9661 朝阳区 三里屯北街81号1幢那里花园二层D205 (5208 6095) 8号楼833 (6417 1318) / 8047 9661); Daliy 10am-7pm Creativity Garden,1 Shunhuang Lu,Sunhe xiang,Chaoyang 朝阳区孙河 Maan Coffee漫咖啡文化体验馆 乡顺黄路甲1号创意园内(8459 4407) >Daily 9am-20:00pm;The south gate of Jiangfu Lu, Chaoyang, 朝阳区亮马桥路48号北京四季酒店 C Pearl (Oysters, Seafood) ¥ * Park,Half tower road,Chaoyang 朝阳区半截塔路将府 (5695 8888) This slick oyster restaurant imports fresh Tomacado 公园南门西侧(5949 8336) shells from Canada, South Africa, France, Tomacado is indeed a mash-up of ‘tomato’ Grange Grill ** USA and more – and they are well worth and ‘avocado’ – and while you’ll certainly MOKA Bros (Contemporary Western) * Located in the Westin Beijing Chaoyang, the price. The fries are the best we’ve had find these ingredients on the menu, you Power bowls, salads and wraps are the kind Grange Grill serves up some of the city’s in Beijing, beer and wine selection also can also expect pleasant drinks, light soups of fare on offer at this trendy Nali Patio best steak, seafood and grill offerings. The excellent. and heartier main courses from this charm- space, which also has a great selection of restaurant’s welcoming decor provides a > Tue-Sun 5.30pm-2am; 14-2, Bldg 14, Shunyuanli, ing cafe. Fowers are also available for sale. cakes and pastries if you’re feeling more relaxing atmosphere to enjoy a cocktail or Xinyuan Jie, Yansha Qiao, Chaoyang 朝阳区燕莎桥新 > Daily 10am-10pm (Lunch start from 11am, Only indulgent. a glass of fine vintage from the extensive 源街顺源里14号楼14-2号 (5724 5886) afternoon tea served on Mon-Fri 2.30-5pm), No. > Sanlitun: Sun-Thu 11am-10:30pm, Fri/Sat 11am- wine collection. Be sure to try the ‘luxuri- 19/20, B1/F, Jia Ming Center, 27 Dongsanhuan Beilu, 11:30pm, B101b Nali Patio South, 81 Sanlitun Beilu ous oyster feast,’ where you can enjoy the Feast (Food by East) Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路27号嘉铭中心地下一层 Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号B101B南楼 (5208 delicacy raw, grilled or with cheese. Bustling café with a philosophy of ‘Simple 19/20号(6500 3354) 6079) ; Solana: Solana Lakeside Dining Street, 6 > Lunch: Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, Sat and Sun Chaoyang Park Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区湖畔美食街 things, done well’. International favorites, VIC 11.30am-3.pm; Dinner: Daily 5.30-10.30pm; The using freshest ingredients , cooked on 朝阳公园路6号院蓝色港湾 (5905 6259) Westin Beijing Chaoyang 7 North East Third Ring Not to be confused with the notorious the spot. nightclub of the same name, this VIC is Road, Chaoyang 东三环北路7号 (5922 8888) >Daily 6am-10.30pm, 2/F, EAST Beijing, 22 Ricci Jiuxianqiao Lu,Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号东隅酒 the Sofitel Beijing’s casual dining restau- Named after a 17th century Italian Jesuit Contemporary Western 店2层 8414 9820 rant. All the major world cuisines are in (duh), this creative café has a funky, kooky- attendance here – make sure you pay meets-organic vibe and serves up some of Alfie’s ¥ (British) Grill 79 (Steak) special attentions to the French-inspired the best casual western food in town, and What’s all this about, then? British gastro- With views this good, Grill 79 would prob- breads and pastries – as is the customary a great brunch at the Wudaokou location pub classics, (like pukker fish and chips, ably make it onto the list even if the food Sunday champagne brunch. (Chaoyang branch closed weekends). RMB188), a swanky gentleman’s club was terrible. It’s something of a bonus then > Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 > 1/F, Building D, Tsinghua Science Park, 1 interior, and located in a chic modern art that the kitchen is superb, and supported Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C Zhongguancun Donglu, Haidian 海淀区中关村东路1 gallery-cum-mall. That’s what, mate. by one of the most extensive wine lists 座索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666) 号院清华科技园D座1楼 (8215 8826 ) > Daily, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, brunch served in town. Yi House (Contemporary Western) on weekends; Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, > Daily 6.30-10.30am, noon-2pm, 6-10pm. TRIBE * Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号芳草地L1-22 (5662 79/F, Phase 3, 1 Nestled in the confines of 798, Yi’s great Salads, wraps and sandwiches, and noodle 8777) Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大 tasting brunch is bettered only by their and grain bowls are as tasty as they are 街1号国贸大酒店79楼 (6505 2299 ext 6424) wide range of cocktails. Sundays offer jazz holistic, and there are more superfoods in Bistrot B brunches with lobster and champagne. one single dish than we even knew existed. Rosewood Beijing’s exquisite French res- Lin’s Dinning > Daily 11am-3pm, 6pm-12am; 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798 Come hungry, leave basking in the warm taurant is the sort of place chefs like to eat. Yishu Qu, No.1 706 Houjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥 glow that comes from knowing that you Expect lavish luxury. 路2号院798艺术区706后街1号 (6436 1818) are eating well. Kombucha is the icing on > Daily, 11.30am-2.30pm and 5.30-10:30pm; 1F the (organic, locally-sourced) cake. Rosewood Beijing, Jing Guang Centre, Hujialou, Wood > Daily 8am-10.30pm, 1/F, Building 3, China View Chaoyang 朝阳区呼家楼一号京广中心北京瑰丽酒店 >Daily 10.30am-11pm, Lakeside Gourmet Street, Plaza, 2A Gongti Dong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 3层 (6536 0066) Solana, 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区 体东路甲2号中国红街大厦3号楼1层大厅入口南侧 朝阳公园路6号蓝色港湾南边湖畔美食街 近南边地面 (8587 1899) Caribeño (Latin) 停车场 5726 8255 Heavy Cuban influence, but there are The Rug (Contemporary Western, Stuff’d (Contemporary Western) dishes from all over the Latin continent Organic) * The concept of Stuff’d is to simply stuff here. The Ropa Vieja (shredded beef on With ingredients supplied by local organic one kind of food in another. From sausage potato) is excellent – as are the Mojitos. farms like Dahe and De Run Wu, and an calzone pizzas (RMB68) to scotch eggs – it > Daily 11:30am-9:30pm, 1/F, China Overseas Plaza, emphasis on sustainability, this café’s wide all works. On-site micro brewery a bonus. 8 Guanghua Dongli, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东里8号中 ranging menu has something for everyone, 海广场北楼1层 (5977 2789) > Wed-Mon, 11:30am-2:45pm, 6-10pm, 9 Jianchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区箭厂胡同9号 (6407 6308) especially green types, bored foreign moms and freelance Macbook types. Chi (Organic, Fusion) > Mon-Fri 7.30am-10:30pm, Sat/Sun 9:30am- Hutong set-menu dining par-excellence, Café/Deli/Sandwich 10:30pm; Bldg 4, Lishui Jiayuan, Chaoyang with organic ingredients all locally sourced. Café Zarah (Café) * Gongyuan Nanlu (opposite Chaoyang Park South From the owners of neighboring Saffron. > Daily 11am-10pm, 2/F, New Grand Dynasty Hotel, Gate), Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园南路丽水嘉园4 > Daily, opens 10:30am, last order 9:30pm, 67 58 Maizidian Jie, Chaoyang 朝阳区麦子店街58号新 A smart new interior and menu for this 号楼(朝阳公园南门对面) (8550 2722) > Additional Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同 大宗饭店二层(6500 6766) longstanding cafe has propelled it from location in Sanlitun Nan Jie (see online.thatsmags. 67号 (6445 7076) hipster hangout to Gulou institution. Large,

72 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM LISTINGS com for details) taste buds with a bevy of specialty and Beixinqiao. Brotzeit German Bier Bar & Restaurant original cocktails, mocktails, shots, beer, > Dinner: 5-10pm; Lunch: 10am-3pm; 3/F, 277 博璨德国啤酒餐厅 Wagas (Contemporary Western) wine and healthy drinks inspired by popu- Dongzhimen Nei Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门内 Brotzeit offers its customers a unique expe- Quality eats with minimal pretension. This lar ingredients. 大街277号三楼 雍和宫大街和北新桥头条交叉处的四 rience with authentic German cuisine and stylish, no-fuss Shanghai rival to Element > All open Daily 10am-late; S2-30, Level 3, S2 Tower, 层商业楼三楼 (6455 3832, 1391 0969 240) world famous German beers in a casual en- Fresh offers some of the best and most 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三 Cepe ¥ vironment. Coupled with its contemporary affordable Western lunch options in town. 里屯太古里南区三楼S2-30 (6417 4030) ; No.167, In a city inundated with Italian offerings, setting and unique brand appeal, Brotzeit The zesty carrot-and-zucchini cake is a 1/F, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路 is distinct from the traditional-style German 18号1层167号 (8426 0017) ; No.125, 1/F, Bldg 1, Cepe manages to stand out thanks to its crowd pleaser. attention to the smallest detail – everything restaurants still seen in Germany and other > Daily 8am-10pm; S8-33, 3/F, Bldg 8, Taikoo Li Sanfeng(North), Chaoyang 朝阳区三丰北里1号楼1层 125号 (8561 2665) ; Unit 15-16, 1/F, Bldg AB, Ocean from the vinaigrette to the Parma ham is parts of the world. South, 19 South Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区三 > Daily 11am-late; F109, Grand Summit, bldg 5, 19 里屯太古里南区三层 (6416 5829) > Additional loca- International Center, 10 Jintong Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳 import quality, and the wine is superb. > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. The Ritz- Dongfang Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东方东路19号 tions in The Kerry Centre, Raffles Mall Dongzhimen 区金桐西路10号远洋光华国际中心AB座一层15 16单 Carlton Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang Dongjie, 楼(DRC外交办公大楼)一层F109 (8531 5166, www. (see www.thatsmags.com for details) 元 (8590 3168) Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街 brotzeit.co) Steak 丽思卡顿酒店大堂 (6601 6666) American/BBQ/Grill Pizza Morton’s of Chicago (American) ¥¥ * Florentina 翡冷翠意大利餐厅 Eudora Station 亿多瑞站 La Pizza > (Near Lidu place))No 6,Fangyuanli Chaoyang 朝 Meat so tender the knife falls through it: ritzy Morton’s deserves the worldwide Among the upper echelons of Beijing 阳区 芳园西里6号(丽都广场对面)(6437 8331, 6437 pizzerias is this Sanlitun goldfish bowl 8334) praise. Expensive, but where else are you going to get steak this good? (Try the with a wood-fired oven and Neapolitan Home Plate BBQ * RMB550 set menu if you want to save cash) manners. Further branches in Solana and Scruffy looks and laid-back staff belie the > Mon-Sat 5:30-11pm, Sun 5-10:30pm; 2/F, Regent pasta/salad/mains-buffet restaurant in popularity of this entry-level brick-smoker Hotel, 99 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng 东城区金宝街99号 Sanlitun 3.3 barbecue joint, that blossoms in the 丽晶酒店二层 (6523 7777) > Sanlitun Branch: daily 10.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. 1/F, 3.3 Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯 sunny months. Pulled-pork sandwiches Steak Exchange Restaurant+Bar (Contem- 路33号3.3服装大厦西北角底商(5136 5582); Solana are the favorites, followed by baby-back Branch: SA-48, 1/F, Bldg 3, Solana, 6 Chaoyang rib racks. Beer and bourbons are taken porary Western) ¥¥ * Park Road, Chaoyang 朝阳公园西路6号蓝色港 care of, too. The bill is hopefully on the company kuai at 湾3号1层 SA-48 ( 5905 6106) > SOHU Shangdu > Daily 11am-10pm. 35 Xiaoyun Lu courtyard this opulent eatery, where charcoal-grilled Branch: SH1112, SOHO Shangdu, 8 Dongdaqiao Lu, (20m north of Xiaoyun Lu intersection, first right), cuts of 250-day, grain-fed Australian Angus Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路8号SOHO尚都 Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路35号院过霄云路路口, start from around RMB428 and merrily SH1112号(5900 3112); La Pizza Buffet: 4F, Sanlitun 往北走20米,到第一个路口右转(5128 5584) spiral. But the meat is unquestionably suc- 3.3 Mall, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯3.3服装大厦4层 > Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie (see www. culent, and cooked exactly to order. (5136 5990) thatsmags.com for details) > Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10.30pm. InterContinen- tal Beijing Financial Street, 11 Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西 Florentina serves authentic Italian fare in Tube Station NOLA 城区金融街11号北京金融街洲际酒店 (5852 5921) low-key, yet elegant surrounds. Cuisine is Nowhere does gigantic toppen-laden pizza N’Orleans finds a dark-wood home in the high-end, the environment is relaxed. A quite like Beijing, and these guys claim to leafy embassy area, with a jazz soundtrack, O’Steak beautiful outdoor terrace makes this place be the biggest in town. shrimp and grits, gumbo, fried chicken, A well-cooked steak in Beijng isn’t all that a godsend for Lido residents. > Sanlitun 3.3 Branch: Mon-Fri 10am-10pm, Sat/Sun jambalaya and decent-enough po’boys – rare anymore, and here we have affordable > Daily 11-late (Kitchen serves until 10pm), 1/F, Bldg 10am-11pm, delivery Mon-Thu 11:30am-10:30pm, yes’m. Excellent Cajun snacks, craft beers but quality cuts. Don’t be fooled by the 2, No. 6 Yard, Fangyuan Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区芳园 Fri-Sun 11:30am-11pm 3/F, 3.3 Building, No. 33 and cocktails also make NOLA a popular Irish sounding name, it’s an authentic 西路6号院2号楼1层(8431 0027) Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang 三里屯北街33号3.3服 watering hole. French bistro – not a Guinness in sight. 装大厦3层3008号 ( 5136 5571, delivery 8989 177) > Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-11pm. 11A > Daily midday-midnight, Xingfu: No.55-7 Xingfucun Mercante ¥ * > Additional branches in Gongti, Beida, Beitai, Xiushui Nanjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区秀水南街11号 Zhonglu, opposite of April courmet, Chaoyang 朝 Old World family charm in an intimate Yayancun, Solana and Weigongcun, see www.on- line.thatsmags.com for details) (8563 6215) 阳区幸福村中路55-7杰作大厦底商绿叶子超市斜对 hutong setting. Time (and, occasionally, 面 (8448 8250) ; Central Park: No.o103 building 20, The Big Smoke * service) slows with a rustic menu from Bo- Central Park, No.6 Chaowai Avenue, Chaoyang 朝 logna offering an assortment of homemade Spanish Taking the Home Plate BBQ concept and 阳区朝外大街6号新城国际20号楼103 (6533 6599); upscaling was a gourmet masterstroke. Full shunyi: No.11-102 Shine Hills, No.9 Antai Avenue, pastas and seasonal mains. Agua ¥ * > Tue-Sun 6-10.30pm. 4 Fangzhuanchang Hutong, menu evenings only (also delivers rotisserie Shunyi 顺义区后沙峪安泰大街9号祥云小镇南门 11号 Occupying the high end of Nali’s Spanish Dongcheng 东城区方砖厂胡同4号 (8402 5098) chicken via Uncle Otis). 楼102 (8048 5080) invasion, Agua excels with reasonably > Daily Mon-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-10pm. priced classics like suckling pig, chorizo First Floor, Lee World Building (opposite Frost Nails), 29 Grill (Contemporary Western) * Tiago Home Kitchen Even the most exacting palettes are delight- and jamon. Winner of the 2014 Golden 57 Xingfucun Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村 Top-notch steak, along with just about eve- Fork Editors’ Pick for best restaurant. 中路 57号楼利世楼 (6416 5195, 6416 268, www. ed by TIAGO, whose team prepares globally ry other cut of meat found in the barnyard > Daily Midday-2pm, 6pm-10pm. 4/F, Nali Patio, 81 uncle-otis.com) in this well-priced meat-eaters’ mecca. sourced ingredients and sustainably grown Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花 > Mon-Fri lunch: 11.30am-2.30pm; Mon-Sat dinner: produce. TIAGO’s dining experience is dis- 园 (5208 6188) The Woods * 6-10.30pm (closed Sundays); Conrad Beijing, 2/F, 29 tinctly Italian, but its menu also offers such New York native-owned, Manhattan-style North Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路9 classics as Australian steaks and Boston lob- Casa Talia by Tiago restaurant, tucked in amongst the skyscrap- 号2层 (6584 6270) ster - plus a wide selection of salads, pizza, >Daily 11.30am-9pm, 01B, 4/F, Raffles City, 1 Dong- ers of CBD: you can’t get more Big Apple pasta and desserts. zhimen Nan Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门南大街1 than that. Italian >Indigo: Daily 11.30am-10pm, Shop L173, Indigo 号来福士购物中心4层01B 8409 4009 > Daily 12pm-10pm, Central Park Tower 1, Suite 101, Mall, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路 No. 6 Chaowai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街6号 Assaggi ¥ * 18号颐堤港购物中心L173商铺(6438 8772); Chaoyang Niajo ¥ * 新城国际1号搂101 (6533 6380) This fine Italian spot in the leafy embassy Joy City: Daily 11am-10pm, 5F50/6F, Chaoyang Joy With homely Mediterranean influences and district has one of Beijing’s best terraces for City, 101 Chaoyang Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳北路 101号朝阳大悦城5F50/6F(8558 3892) a charming management, Niajo is prime Mexican/Tex Mex summer dining. The tagliata steak is worth Sanlitun smart-casual dining. Order the a return visit. Cantina Agave (Tex-Mex) Opera Bombana ¥ paella (their star dish) together with some > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11:30pm. 1 Sanlitun tapas and be automatically transported to Great selection of burritos, tacos and 80+ Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街1号 (8454 4508) Head chef Umberto Bombana boasts three imported tequilas. Spice up dishes with the Michelin stars to his name, earned at his Spain (minus the constant sunshine). > Daily noon-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun walk-up salsa bar and don’t leave without a Annie’s ¥ * wildly successful Hong Kong restaurant Otto e Mezzo. He’s the only Italian chef to Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 bite of the custardy flan. Now a certified Beijing institution, Annie’s (5208 6052) >Sun-Thurs 11am to midnight. Fri–Sat 11am to 2am, serves up the city’s most reliable Italian do so outside of his native land, and cer- S4-32 South Block, Sanlitun Taikoo Li, 19 Sanlitun fare. Delivery is free anywhere between tainly the only to have opened a restaurant Migas ¥ * Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里太古里南区 Line 5 and the the Fifth Ring Road (call for in Beijing. (6416 5212) The boys at Migas have turned a concept delivery prices outside this area), and can > Daily, 12pm-10:30pm; LG2-21 Parkview Green bar into a thriving Mediterranean res- be ordered in English between 10.30am Fangcaodi, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大 Taco Bar 桥路9号侨福芳草地地下2层21号 (5690 7177) taurant, bar and party venue, and one of Rising from the ashes of its deceased and 10.30pm from www.annies.com.cn. summer’s rooftop destinations. hutong location, the new Taco Bar is hip, Alternatively, drop in to your local branch. > Daily 10am-3pm, 5pm- late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 > All open Daily,10.30am-11pm; Beijing Riviera: German popular and able to produce some of the Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 opposite west gate of Lane Bridge Villa, Shunyi 朝 6层 (5208 6061) most authentic Mexican fare in town. Only 阳区来广营东路5号长岛澜桥别墅西门对面尚古城一 Drei Kronen 1308 * RMB45 for three and great cocktails to 楼 (8470 4768); Lido: Jiangtai Lu, opposite United Authentic (truly – when they say 1308 they Asian complement. Family Hospital 朝阳区将台商业街4号楼2楼和睦家 mean it) displays of armour and brewing > Tue-Thu 5.30pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5.30pm-2.30am, Sun 医院对面 (6436 3735); Wangjing: 2F, beside the kits draw regular evening crowds for the Indian 11am-1am; 1/F, Unit 10, Electrical Research Institute, Daimler Tower, LSH Plaza, 8 Wangjing Jie 朝阳区利星 superb pork knuckle and heavy-duty helles Sanlitun Nan Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南路机电研 行广场A座戴勒姆大厦裙楼2层近望京商业中心 (8476 (pale lager), wheat and dark beer (brewed Indian Kitchen 究院内10号1层 (6501 6026) 0398); Chaoyang Park: West Gate of Chaoyang on-site). Park 朝阳区朝阳公园老西门南侧 (6591 1931); > Daily 11am-2am. 1/F, Bldg 5, China View, Gongti Palms L.A. Kitchen and Bar * (Korean- Sanlitun: China View Building, opposite East Gate of Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体东路中国红街5号楼1 Mexican fusion) Workers’Stadium 朝阳区工体东门对面中国红街一楼 层(6503 5555) Tucked away near Gulou, this hip little (8587 1469); Ritan Park: Ritan High Life, 3F, north of hutong concept is truly one of a kind in Ritan Park 朝阳区神路街39号日坛上街3-108号 (8569 Hacker-Pschorr Brauhaus Beijing. Quesadillas with kimchi and bibim- 3031); The Place: East of the Place, south of Central If you’re looking for authentic German baps with melted cheese and hot sauce. Park 朝阳区金桐西路10号远洋光华国际中心AB座1 fare and, most importantly, German-style Guess what? It works. Killer range of classic 层 (8590 6428); Guomao: Ruisai Business Building beer, then you can’t go wrong with Hacker- (southest of Guomao subway) 朝阳区东三环南路2 Pschorr Brauhaus. Made from centuries-old Cali’ cocktails, too. 号瑞赛大厦商务楼1层 (6568 5890); Sunshine 100: > Daily 11:30am-midnight (closed Mondays); 14 Guanghua Lu, opposite Sunshine 100 Building 朝阳 recipes – and in accordance with the 1516 Zhangwang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街 区光华路阳光100公寓对面首经贸南门 (858 98366) German Beer Purity Law – the brews here 张旺胡同14号 (6405 4352) are some of the finest in Beijing. Prost! Bene ¥ * > Room 3, Building 3, No 12 ,Xindonglu Chaoyang Q Mex Bar & Grill Chef Ricci will have you singing like a sopra- 朝阳区 新东路12号院3号楼3门(5323 3399) > Sanlitun Courtyard (across from Salsa Caribe, no with his pork ravioli and prize-winning nearby Bookworm), Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院 Paulaner Brauhaus 机电研究院餐饮街内 6585 3828 tiramisu. Excellent set menus (RMB588) and extensive wine selection. The grand old man of Beijing brauhauses, > Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. Sheraton Paulaner delivers the Teutonic goods in the Burgers hands of lederhosen-clad staff from the The go to curry house among Beijing’s Beijing Dongcheng, 36 Northeast Third Ring Road, homesick Indian community, this ever Dongcheng District 东城区北三环东路36号(5798 8995) provinces. It can be pricey but is usually Blue Frog worthwhile, especially during Oktoberfest. popular no-nonsense restaurant has built Blue Frog is pleased to introduce a creative BOCCA DELLA VERITA¥ > Daily 11am-1am. Kempinski Hotel, 50 Liangmaqiao up a solid reputation thanks to its wide new Drinks Menu. As the new year begins, Good-value homestyle Italian is the order Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路50号凯宾斯基饭店 range of quality dishes and particularly this new menu will wake up everyone’s of the day at this little-known spot in (6465 3388 ext. 5732) friendly service. Looking good after a

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 73 LISTINGS recent rennovation and very available on (8400 2699) is an absolute bargain. popular to properly enjoy their company. JinShiSong online delivery. > Daily 11am-10pm, Sat and Sun until At weekends, it gets aggressively full, with > Daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm, 2/F 2 Sanlitun Japanese 9.30pm; 5/F, LG Twin Towers (East Tower), 12 regulars and the passing tourist trade all Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街2号2楼 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建 baying at the bar. A good place to meet (6462 7255) HAGAKI 叶书 * 国门外大街乙12号双子座大厦东塔5层 (5109 new friends, perhaps. Serves up a selection of signature maki 6036/6037) see www.thatsmags.com for other > Daily, 4pm-late, Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳 Raj rolls, as well as classics like tonkatsu, locations) 区三里屯北小街 (6413 0587, first.floorbeijing.com) Tucked away in musty old building just un- tempura and udon, Hagaki specializes derneath the drum tower, this curryhouse in Californian-inspired Japanese cuisine Vegetarian Great Leap Brewing 大跃啤酒 ¥ * may look Chinese but everything on the and has a lively sushi bar. The bar that began the whole Beijing mi- menu is authentic Indian, espcially the >Daily 11am-2.30pm, 1/F, EAST Beijing, 22 Tianchu Maoxiang (Asian) crobrewing frenzy (yes, frenzy) specializes rather fine naan. Jiuxianqiao Lu,Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号东隅酒 Like many arrivals to Beijing, this place in idiosyncratic, local-style brews (RMB25- > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-11pm, 31 Gulou Xidajie 店1层 8414 9815 started out in Wudaokou and it’s 40) with intriguing flavors – their Sichuan Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼西大街31号 (6401 1675) since made a successful migration to peppercorn ale was memorably good. Hatsune ¥ * (California Japanese) Chaoyang. Great range of veggie fare, Reservations used to be recommended Ganges As much a California roll joint as true reasonably priced and they offer cook- for their original hutong brewhouse, but Conveniently located above popular Japanese, Hatsune is now an old favorite ing classes as well. the opening of a wildly popular new pub Irish sports bar Paddy O’Sheas, this solid among the sake-swilling, sushi-swallowing > Daily 10am-10pm; 19 Rm 0260, 2/F, Bldg D, on Xinzhong Lu has shifted most drinkers Indian curry house provides the perfect set, though less so among sashimi purists. Chaowai SOHO, 6B Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳门外大街乙6朝外SOHOD座2层 there instead. post-match culinary accompaniment. Or > Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm; 2/F, Heqiao Bldg > Gulou: 5pm-late, Tue-Fri, 2pm-late Sat-Sun 2-10pm, 0260 (5900 1288)(see www.online.thatsmags. put another way: it’s what you’ll be craving C, 8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路甲8号 6 DouJiao Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区豆角胡同6号 com for details) after eight pints of beer. 和乔大厦C座2层 (6581 3939) >Additional locations (5717 1399) ; Sanlitun: Daily 11:30am-2pm; Sun-Thu > Daily 11am to 10.30pm; Dongzhimen Branch: 2/F, in Sanlitun Tai Koo Li South; Kerry Centre Mall (see Veggie Table (Western, Asian) * 5pm-midnight, Fri /Sat 5pm-1am, B12 Xinzhong 28 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门 www.online.thatsmags.com for details) Proving that Beijing-style vegetarian cuisine Street 新中街乙12号 (6416 6887, www.greatleap- 外大街28号2层 (6417-0900) > Additional branch in is by no means the exclusive preserve of brewing.com) Inagiku * Sanlitun, see online.thatsmags.com for details. Buddhist monks and soppy Jack Johnson This Beijing branch of one of Tokyo’s oldest fans, this superbly honed eatery offers some Heaven Supermarket and most celebrated restaurants is as near South-East Asian of the very best sandwiches – vegetarian or A purgatory of bottles, bongs and bedrag- to perfection as you’re likely to find. otherwise – found anywhere in the city. gled English teachers, Heaven sells the 4Corners (Vietnamese, Fusion) Deceptively simple yet finely crafted, > Daily 10.30am-11.30pm (last order 10.30pm); 19 cheapest alcoholic takeaways in town. You The definitive hutong bar/restaurant? Chef the handmade Inaniwa udon (RMB80) Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同 can also hang around and appreciate the is not to be missed. Jun Trinh took a break from his celebrity TV 19号 (6446 2073) afterlife (clientele) if you want. Caveat: the work to host this part-Vietnamese venue, > Daily 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm; Rm 315, 3/F, food is straight from Hell’s own kitchen. Park Life, Yintai Centre, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, serving up steaming bowls of pho with > Daily 11-4am. 14 Xindong Lu (next to The James Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街2号银泰中心悦生 zesty, fresh rolls, as well as a great bar, with Joyce), Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路14号 (6415 6513) frequent live indie performances. 活3层315室 (8517 2838) BARS > Tue-Sun 11am-2am, 27 Dashibei Hutong (near Hidden Lounge * Hyoki ¥ (Japanese) west end of Yandai Xiejie), Xicheng 西城区大石碑胡 TOP 40 BARS AND CLUBS Although frustrating to find, Hidden Hidden away in the depths of the 同27号烟袋斜街西口附近) (6401 7797) About This guide represents our editors’ Lounge rewards the intrepid with good art- Sofitel Hotel, this labyrinthine Japanese work and comfortable seating, suggesting restaurant of all private dining rooms top 40 picks, and includes some That’s Bhoomi Store Philippines Food Shop a Kasbah, plus well-made drinks at great has some stunning food, and is the Beijing advertisers. Bars rated(*) have Bhoomi store One stop destination where been personally reviewed by our experts, prices (wine from RMB100 a bottle, mix a wide range of Philippines food products only place to sample traditional Japa- and scored according to the cuisine, drinks from RMB25). You’ll probably have are served. nese paper hot pot in Beijing. > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing 100022 93 Jianguo experience and affordability. to call them to find it, though. > Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm, Sunday 2-7pm. 266 > Daily 6pm-1am. Room 101, Bldg 8, CBD , Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号索菲特万达 Yaohong Lu by Hongsong Dong Lu, Minhang Shuanghuayuan Nanli Erqu, Chaoyang 朝阳区双花园 Shanghai, 上海闵行区姚虹路266号, 近红松东路 021 北京酒店6层 (6581 0072) ( Arrow Factory 南里二区CBD公寓8号楼101屋 (8772 1613) 2428 3400) Sake Manzo * The newest craft beer taproom on the Jane’s & Hooch ¥ * Cafe Sambal (Malaysian) The barmen here are serious about block, Arrow Factory is a rustic hideaway Acclaimed by some foreign press as one When it comes to Malay-style food in a their sake. Boasting one of the best brimming with good Anglo-Scandinavian of the best bars in the world (cough), this hutong, nowhere does it better. Admittedly, stocked drinks cabinets in town with vibes (courtesy of the brew-masters) and not-so-plain Jane has been at the vanguard it’s something of a niche category, but then over 60 different sakes on offer, this the brand’s distinctive Chinese brewed ales. of the South Sanlitun gentrification. It so is the food on offer. The spicy Kapitan- super-cool little eatery is the perfect A winning combination serves RMB60-80 measures of your favorite style chicken is pricey, but worth it. place to unwind after a hard day’s toil. > 38 Jianchang Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区箭 厂胡同38号(6407 6308) Prohibiotion-era hooches in a fanstastic > Daily 11am-midnight. 43 Doufuchi Hutong (just The sashimi is fresh to the cut, and the east of Jiugulou Dajie), Xicheng 西城区豆腐池胡同43 beer-marinated chicken is out of this speakeasy atmosphere, with attentive staff 号 旧鼓楼大街往东走(6400 4875) world. One of the very best and least 8-Bit and unimpeachable cocktails. appreciated restaurants in town. Drinking alongside multiplayer retro gam- > Daily 8pm-2am, Courtyard 4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院 ( 6503 2757) Purple Haze (Thai) > Daily 6pm-midnight. 7A Tuanjiehu Beisantiao, ing – why didn’t anyone do this sooner? Given Beijing’s lack of white sand beaches Chaoyang 朝阳区团结湖北三条甲7号(6436 1608 Megadrive, Super Nintendo, N64... some and backpacker bars, Purple Haze has to real gems make up an ever-growing col- Jing-A Taproom ** make do for the best Thai experience in Saveurs de Coree lection. Draft Kirin goes for a reasonable In just a few years, these guys developed town. Has all the classics like veggie spring This upmarket Korean bistro has RMB25 a glass. from shady guerrilla brewers to upstanding rolls (RMB40), papaya salad (RMB46) and undergone several changes in recent > Daily 1pm-2am; 13 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东 publicans with their own range of souvenir curries (RMB44-180) – but our pick’s the years, not least its move away from 城区北锣鼓巷13号 (159 1025 6538) T-shirts. Their bar is a peach: a bricks-and- seafood pad Thai (RMB45). the hipper-than-thou confines of mortar taproom, which is large, warm and > Daily 11am-11pm, 55 Xingfu Yicun, Chaoyang 朝 Nanluoguxiang. Fortunately, the menu BBC (Bottle, Boot & Cigar) sociable, and has up to 16 different beers 阳区幸福一村55号 (6413 0899) remains largely intact. The Shin Ramyun The brainchild of local spirits professional on tap. is among the best in Beijing, while the Douglas Williams, this bar provides the > Building B, 1949 The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, Greyhound Café (Modern Thai/Fusion) Wagyu barbecued beef is almost too discerning Beijing drinker with a peerless Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院 Greyhound Café originated in Bangkok of- good to be true. selection of liquor for sale, cocktails and Mao Mao Chong ** fering Thai food with a twist and served in > Daily noon-11pm; 128-1 Xiang’er Hutong, coming soon, shoe shines, cigars and The cocktails at Mao’s – such as their a fashionable surrounds. Perfect for Taikoo Dongcheng 东城区香饵胡同128-1号(5741 5753) straight-razor shaves. Li Sanlitun then. > 1pm-late. 1 Taipingzhuang Nanli (At Xingfucun, sublime ‘Mala’ Mule, a Sichuan peppercorn- > Daily 11am-11pm, S1-30B, Building 1, Sanlitun Yotsuba ** between Frost: Coffee, Nails & Cocktails and Commix infused vodka drink that’s a long way from Road 19, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号1号楼 S1-30B It doesn’t come cheap (tasting menu Bar), Chaoyang 朝阳区太平庄南里1号 (1861 405 7407, Moscow – are unique infusions using (6416 3439)> Additional branch in Shin Kong Place RMB1,000), but what would you expect www.bbcbeijing.com) local ingredients and know-how. Grungey (see online.thatsmags.com for details) from some of the best sushi in town? without being grimey, Mao’s eschews flash Capital Spirits Buttery and meaty fatty tuna sashimi is while still keeping it real. And those pizzas. A team of non-China natives doing a baijiu Nyonya Kitchen (Malaysian, Nyonya) a cut above. > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng 东 bar? Brave and, luckily, brilliant. Lovely 城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718, www. This chain specializes in Nyonya style cook- > Dongcheng: Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. Sanlitun ing – ostensibly Malaysian but with a mix branch: 2 Sanlitun Bei Xiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区 hutong setting, friendly owners and great maomaochongbeijing.com) of Chinese, South-East Asian and European 三里屯北小街2号 (6464 2365); Lido branch: 2F, bottle collection. influences resulting in lots of bold flavors No.9-3, Jiangtai Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区将台西路 > Tue-Sun 8pm-late; 3 Da Ju Hutong, Dongcheng 东城 Mesh ¥ and bright colors. 9-3号2层 (8420 0998) 区大菊胡同3号 (6409 3319; www.capitalspirits.com) Whether it’s an early evening cocktail or a > CBD: EB105, B1/F, China World Mall Phase late-night infusion, Mesh’s moody interior 1, 1 Jianguomen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门 Sui Ka China Bar ¥¥ and underground soundtrack draws the 外大街1号国贸商城一期地下一层EB105 (6505 Is this what after-work hangouts are Top views from the 65th floor and flash bright young things (and on LGBT Thurs- 0376); Taiyanggong: Unit 10-11, 4/F, CapitaMall like in Japan? We’re not sure, but we drinks are the attractions on offer at this days, quite a few old things, too). Taiyanggong, Chaoyang 朝阳区凯德Mall太阳宫4层 hope so: This charming izakaya nails hip hotel bar. > Daily 5pm-1am. Building 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, 10/11号 (8415 0863,www.nyonyakitchen.com) it when it comes to sake selection and > Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. 65/F, Park Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼 (6417 6688) fried delights to munch alongside it. Hyatt, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国 Malacca Legend >Daily 5pm-1am, Ichibangai First Avenue Food 门外大街2号柏悦酒店65层 (8567 1838/40) Maggie’s ¥ Malaysian food with a view, this spacious Court, Zaoying Nanli, Maizidian, East 3rd Ring A notorious sausage fest (we refer, of and airy restaurant sits on the banks of Road, Chaoyang朝阳区东三环农展馆北路宾都苑 Daily Routine 日常生活 course, to the hot-dog stand outside), Shunyi’s Roma Lake and at a new unit in 东侧一层底商一番街内 (137 1692 7543) This cozy bar is a diamond in the rough. Maggie’s has been providing its special the heart of the city at The Place, making a Owner Travis is a cocktail aficionado, and comforts for so long, it’s practically a time- great spot for their beef rendang or green Hyoki ¥ (Japanese) the drinks at this establishment change sea- honored Beijing brand – although it’s also a curry prawns. Hidden away in the depths of the sonally according to ingredient availability. bastion of Mongolian culture. > Daily 11am-10pm; 6 Roma Lake: 6 Luodong Lu, Sofitel Hotel, this labyrinthine Japanese Light cafe fare is available during the day. > Sun-Thur 8pm-4am, Fri-Sat 8pm-5am, Ritan Park Luogezhuang Village, Hoshayu Town, Shunyi 顺义 restaurant of all private dining rooms > Daily 11am-11pm. 34 Wudaoying Hutong, South Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛公园南 区后沙峪镇罗各庄村罗马湖东北三路6号C院 (8049 has some stunning food, and is the Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同34号 (8400 1159) 门 (8562 8142) 8902); Signature: Shop L203, 2/F, The Place, 9 only place to sample traditional Japa- Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路9号世贸天阶2 nese paper hot pot in Beijing. El Nido * Parlor 层L203 (6587 1393) > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing 100022 93 Jianguo The first hutong hang-out to patent the Learn a few quotes from Gatsby before Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号索菲特万达 fridge-full-of-cheap-imports formula, El heading to this 20s Shanghai-style speak- Susu (Vietnamese) 北京酒店6层 (6581 0072) Nido inspires a loyal following, particularly easy and you’ll fit right in. The first step is finding it. Follow that up in summer. The roast leg of mutton place > Daily 6pm-2am, 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区 with a dreamlike renovated courtyard, ex- Korean next door is one of the best locally. 新东路幸福二村39-8 (8444 4135) tensive wine list and a listing of top-notch > Daily 6pm-late, 59 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng 东 Vietnamese curries, banh mi sandwiches, Ai Jiang Shan 城区方家胡同50号(158 1038 2089) Mai Bar * stews, soups and la Vong fish. This upscale seafood restaurant proves Understated hutong hideaway with a long > Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm; 10 Qianliang Hutong that chargrill and composure can go First Floor list of some of the best cocktails in town. Xixiang, Dongcheng 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10号 together. Their RMB58 bibimbap lunch First Floor is like that friend who’s too > Daily 5pm-late, 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城

74 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM LISTINGS

区北锣鼓巷40号 (6406 1871) keep things low-key enough for the get- regular floor shows. healthy-looking color. home-for-the-babysitter crowd. > Daily 7pm-6am. 19 Ritan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区日 > Sanlitun: 11am-9pm, 2/f, Bldg 3, Sanlitun SOHO, Revolution * > 7 Dongmianhua Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie, 坛北路19号 (8561 3988) Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路三里屯Soho3 Sanlitun doesnt really do hipster bars but Dongcheng 东城区交道口南大街东棉花胡同7号 (6401 号楼2层217 (5785 3711, [email protected]); if it did, this cramped ode to Maomorabilia 5269, site.douban.com/jianghujiubar, jincanzh@ Dada * Wangjing: 11am-9pm, Rm T5, 3/F, BOTAI International would be it. The East may be red but their gmail.com) It hasn’t been on the Beijing scene for Building, 36 Guangshun Bei Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳 cocktails (RMB45) are fit for a Chairman. too long, but already Dada is the hippest 区望京广顺北大街36号博泰国际商业广场3层T—5 (8472 2855) > Daily, 12pm-late, west of Yashow, Gongti Bei Lu, 朝 Dusk Dawn Club (DDC) 黄昏黎明俱乐部 hangout in town. Their cosy Gulou confines 阳区工体北路雅秀市场西侧 (6415 8776) Great little livehouse near Meishuguan under rock house Temple offer an intimate with a focus on jazz, folk and indie rock. place to nod along to an eclectic range of Alona Pilates Studio The Brick Craft beer and whisky means you won’t get all things electro from the best names on Pairing up traditional Pilates with an in- A Cheers-style atmosphere ensures you’ll bored of the drinks list quickly. the underground scene. novative, full-body workout, Alona Pilates find this neighbourhood drinking hole-in- > Tue-Sun 1pm-2am; 14 Shanlao Hutong, > Daily 9pm-late, Rm 101, Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong offers classes designed to tone and whip the brick-wall faux dive bar either cliquey Dongcheng 东城区美术馆后街山老胡同14号 (6407 Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B栋101室 you into shape fast. It also provides a or inclusive. The heavy-duty cocktails 8969) (183 1108 0818) personalized experience for all its students, (including the devastatingly boozy RMB80 regardless of fitness, strength and Terminator) are probably needed for the Hot Cat Club 热力猫 Lantern * flexibility levels. bizarre Wednesday pub quiz. A true stalwart of the Beijing scene, Hot Founded by now-defunct Acupuncture > Daily, 7.30, late. 5/F at Heavenly Spa by Westin, 1 Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang 朝阳区新源南路1号威斯汀 > Daily 4pm-late. Unit 2-11, Bldg 2, Tianzhi Jiaozi, 31 Cat is the type of hard-working venue that Records, Lantern is a beacon of light in the 酒店五层 ( 139 1029 0260, www.alonapilates.com) Guangqu Lu (northeast corner of Shuangjing Qiao), helps cement a city’s music scene. strip of truly ghastly nightclubs and bars Chaoyang 朝阳区双井桥东北角广渠路31号院天之骄子 > Daily 10am-late, 46 Fangjia Hutong (just south known as ‘Gongti.’ Serious about its music, 2号楼底商2-11 (134 2616 6677) of Guozijian Jie), Dongcheng 东城区方家胡同46号 it also makes good drinks and attracts Narcisse Beauty Brands Encompassed (6400 7868) international electronica DJs. One of a kind! A 600 m2 brand-new concept The Irish Volunteer The Post Mountain 后山 > Thurs-Sat 9pm-6.30am. 100m north of Worker’s of beauty salon——Narcisse, encompassed Everything – from the red-faced owner to Built into a man-made hill in the center of Stadium West Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场西 with professional brands on skincare, the grub – is authentically Irish: tinged the MOMA Complex, this new addition to 门向北100米 (139 119 77989) manicure and hair removal. Not only can with alcoholism, doggerel and drunken Beijing’s growing livehouse empire is The we guarantee to give you the highest qual- regret. A good place to down a pint and a Hobbit meets Manhattan. With as much MIX ity of products and treatments, but also an pizza before heading into town, then. vibe as a sterile modern-art gallery. Its A bit like a trip to the Forbidden City, Mix impressive one-stop beauty experience. > Daily 9pm-2am. 311 Jiangtai Lu (opposite Lido is one of those places in Beijing you have imported sound system and ramped floor Brands inside Narcisse: Hotel East Gate), Chaoyang 朝阳区将台路311 makes for decent sound and sightlines. to experience before you leave. Not much 号 (6438 5581) > Bldg T8, MOMA, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu, is forbidden in this underground hip-hop Youngfo: Facial Cleansing Center Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng (next to MOMA disco palace and if you don’t leave with Clean Out What’s Deeply Buried In Your Skin The Tree Cinemateque) 东城区东直门外香河园路1号当代 hook-up in tow then you’re doing some- 10+10: Minimal-Design Nail A cozy stalwart of the Beijing bar scene, MOMA园区T8楼北百老汇电影中心北侧 (8400 4774) thing very wrong. Chic Workaholic’s Luv! ’ you’ll find wood-fired comfort pizza, beer > Daily 8pm-6am, Inside Worker s Stadium North Edelweiss: Laser Hair Removal Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 (6506 9888, aplenty and a hearty, mature atmosphere. Temple 坛 * Latest Technology, Safe&Permanent Has two neighborhood offshoots: By the Probably the manliest venue in town, this 6530 2889, 150 1138 2219, [email protected]) Tree (brickwork, pool, old man’s pub) and dimly lit and unventilated space is owned Deep Facial Cleaning- 880rmb/once Nearby the Tree (live music, two floors). by rockers (Gao Xu, Gao Jian and Clement Vics > 10.30am-10.30pm, Bldg. 1,No.6 West Fangyuan > Daily noon-2am. 100m west of Sanlitun Bar Street, Burger) and known for late sets of hard Separated at birth from its identical twin rd, Chaoyang (inside Narcisse Beauty Brands Youyi Youth Hostel, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯酒吧街往 rock, punk and ska, with weekend gigs brother, Mix, this is the definition of Gongti Encompassed)朝阳区芳园西路6号院1号楼水仙美容品 牌集合店内 西100米友谊旅馆后面三里屯医院东面 (6415 1954) and DJ sets every fortnight. It offers a long sweatbox meat-market chic at its very (5365 9418) finest. The Chinese love it – as do moody drinks menu, with plenty of cheap pastis Daisy’s Beauty Salon Slow Boat Brewery Taproom ** and shooters, but you’ll probably stick to Russians and jailbait students – helping Vics This popular microbrewery has its own to become one of the most infamous clubs Since 2001, Daisy’s beauty salon has the RMB15 draught. catered to thousands of Beijing expats and pub hidden away in Dongcheng’s hutongs. > Daily, 7pm-late. Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, in the capital. Quality ales that change depending on Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B楼202 (131 > Daily 8.30pm late, Inside Worker’s Stadium North locals and is renowned for its premium the season, heated floors and a great little 6107 0713) Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 (5293 0333) waxing services and imported wax that kitchen round out the deal. smells like hot chocolate. If waxing isn’t > Mon Closed, Tues-Wed: 5pm-midnight, Thu 5pm- Yugong Yishan 愚公移山 * Hotel Bars your thing, the salon also specializes in 1am, Fri 5pm-late, Sat 2pm-late, Sun 2-10pm; 56 We’ve lost more body weight than we’d an array of other treatments including IPL Dongsi Batiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四八条56号 care to remember in YY’s mosh pit. Fortu- Atmosphere ¥¥ Facial Rejuvenation and lifting, a 90-minute (6538 5537) nately, almost all the acts – usually hip-hop Beijing’s highest bar, on the 80th floor of treatment that uses a laser to stimulate DJs, emo rocks and obscure indie outfits the 1,082-ft China World Tower, offers 300+ collagen production and soften lines. Laser Glen ¥ from across the globe – were worth it. The swanky cocktails from RMB65 with 360-de- and IPL permanent hair removal treatment Experiences can vary at Glen (we’ve upstairs bar area is a refuge from the sweat gree views of the 700AQI PM2.5. is also proving popular and effective. endured poor service and drinks that are glands below. > Mon-Fri noon-2am, Sat and Sun noon-4am. 80/F, > Daily, 10am-8.30pm, Rm301, Building scandalous at the price), which is located in > Daily 7pm-late. 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu (100m west China World Summit Wing, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, B,Sunshine100 International Apartment, Guanghua a decidedly downbeat compound. But whis- of Zhangzizhong Lu subway station), Dongcheng 东 Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号北京国贸大酒店80 Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东路2号阳光100国际 ky lovers have been known to swear by its 城区张自忠路3-2号(6404 2711) (6505 2299 ext. 6433) 公寓B座301室 (5100 0556 / 0557, www.daisysbeau- selections and dark, intimate atmosphere. tysalon.com) See for yourself. Sports Bars Centro ¥ >Daily 6.30pm-2am. 203, 2/F, Taiyue Suites Hotel Although it’s no longer quite the go-to Beijing Hikers Beijing, 16 Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区南三里屯 The Local * place for beautiful people it once was, Cen- Want to experience the wild, unrestored 路16号泰悦豪庭2楼203室 (6591 1191) Formerly Brussels, this beery bar has come tro still draws a cute crowd with its nightly Great Wall, away from the tourist masses? into its own, with large (yet strangely jazz performaces, spacious and recently Or do you just want to get out of the city Glen Classic ¥ unobtrusive) screenings of sports and renovated lounge areas and classic drinks for some exercise? Beijing Hikers offers Tucked away in the grounds of Face hotel, political events, a pub quiz, quality fare and like the blue-cheese martini. hikes in the countryside of Beijing every Glen Classic is a Japanese-owned whisky a nice selection of draughts and cocktails. > Open 24 hours. 1/F, Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua week all year round. Hikes for all fitness lev- bar where discerning drinkers can sink Try the Bourbon Street Ice Tea – you won’t Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路1号北京嘉里大饭店1层 els! Regular hikes are priced from RMB380, into an arm-chair, glass in hand, and while need another. (6561 8833) with discounts for members. Cost includes away the hours. Huge range of whiskies > Daily 11-2am. 4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 hiking guide, transportation, tickets, food 体北路4号院 (6591 9525) MEI and rums are personally selected by expert and water. We’ve also got adventures all One of the livelier hotel bars in town, owner Daiki Kanetaka – let him recommend over China. Paddy O’Shea’s * MEI has a nightly band, serves creatively you something special. > For more information, visit www.beijinghikers.com An entire Irish-themed pub, which could delicious cocktails and overlooks the CCTV > Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am, reservation required, Shang Xia minimum spend RMB200, Face Hotel Courtyard, 26 easily been trasnsported, untouched, from ‘trousers.’ Don’t leave without trying the a back alley in Limerick and gently depos- frightfully delicious Panjiayuan Bramble. >L118 & 119, L1 China World Mall, China World Dongcaoyuan, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体南路东草园26 Trade Center 1, Jianguomen Waidajie, Chaoyang 朝 ited in central Beijing. With plenty going Mon-Wed 6pm-2am, Thu-Sat 6pm-3am, Sun 5pm- 号 (6551 6788) 阳区建国门外大街1号中国国际贸易中心国贸商城1楼 midnight; 5F Rosewood Beijing, Jing Guang Centre, on, including pub quiz and sports. L118 & 119 (6505 3446) Trouble Bar > Dongzhimen: Daily 10am-late, 28 Dongzhimen- Hujialou, Chaoyang District朝阳区呼家楼一号京广中 朝阳区东直门外大街 号 心北京瑰丽酒店3层 (6536 0083) Beijing’s leading venue for imported craft wai Dajie, Chaoyang 28 (6592 Lily Nails beers. Stocks a large draft selection and 6290); Sanlitun: 2/F, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Back Street 三里屯北路43号同里二层 (6415 0299) O’Bar an even larger selection of bottles. Also With both a fantastic cocktail menu and does a nice line in creative cocktails, if V Sports one of the finest terraces in the city, NUO brews aren’t your thing. Conveniently Spacious, comfortable, huge screens and Hotel’s O’Bar is a sure bet for classy evening located next to Gung-Ho, hosts a full-sized no rowdy drunken cretins, V Sports makes drinks in the city. foos-ball table, darts, and plenty of TV’s to a claim for the champion of Beijing sports >Sun-Thr:6pm-1am;Fri-Sat:6pm-2am;2 Jiangtai accommodate any event, meetings, and bars. Lu,Chaoyang朝阳区将台路甲2号(5926 8888) gatherings. > Daily 5.30pm-6am, Gongti North Gate East side, > 2-101, China View Building, 2B Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北门内东侧 (5293 0333) Xian 仙 Chaoyang (Next To Gung-Ho) 朝阳区工人体育场东 Bold multi – element bar Xian on the 路乙2号中国红街2-101叫板比萨隔壁 (8590 0390, Nightclubs [email protected], www.trouble.bar) ground floor mixes a pub, whiskey bar, live music venue and games room into one The Bar at Migas * vibrant entertainment hotspot. A place to dance and prowl, perhaps, rather 10 Best Livehouses >Daily 5pm-2am, 1/F, EAST Beijing, 22 Jiuxianqiao than a drinks destination, TBAM, as no one Lu,Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号东隅酒店1层 School Bar 学校酒吧 * calls it, focuses on upscale local DJs to get (8414 9810) Crap drinks and regular, unscheduled the party started. Good-enough cocktails fights: no wonder the cool kids adore this range from RM55-70 but mostly it’s about alternative livehouse/ DJ bar, founded by the music, man. BEAUTY & FITNESS A long-time favorite among locals and Beijing and Shanghai rock n’ rollers. > Sunday to Wednesday 6pm-2am, Thursday to Friday expats alike, Lily Nails is much more than a 6pm-late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang > Daily 8pm-late. 53 Wudaoying Hutong, Chaoyang Black Golden Tanning Studio District 朝阳区三里屯路81号 (5208-6061) nail spa; they eyelash services, of pamper- 朝阳区五道营胡同53号 (6402 8881, 6406 9947) 古铜日晒中心 ing treatments and waxing too. Beijing is hardly the best place to pick up >3.3 Flagship store: Daily 11am-11pm, Shop Jianghu 江湖酒吧 Chocolate a natural tan. When it finally reaches the It’s impossible to discuss Chocolate without 5009, 5/F, 3.3 Fashion Plaza, Sanlitun, Chaoyang This former Qing Dynasty courtyard home warm summer, the sun’s rays struggle 朝阳区三里屯3.3大厦5层5009号(5136 5919); 3.3 is exactly where you’d take that friend from mentioning gold leaf, dwarves, cabaret to penetrate the smog. Thankfully, Black Star store: Daily 11am-11pm, Shop 2049, 2/F, 3.3 out of town to prove you’re cool. Its cozy dancers and oddly-friendly Russian women. Golden Tanning Studio is on hand to give Fashion Plaza, Sanlitun, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯 atmosphere is also its downfall – any show Timed right, a visit can be raucous fun, with you that golden glow with its quick, safe 3.3大厦2层2049号(5136 5829); Yashow shopping with under 40 people and you’re stuck bottles of spirits from around RMB200, and effective technology. With a member- mall: Daily 10am-10pm, Shop 22, 4/F, Yashow looking through the windows. Hip and cocktails under RMB50 (including the ship card, enjoy a 50-minute session for shopping Mall, Sanlitun, Chaoyang 朝阳区三 casually familiar, the jazz and folk bookings absinthe-based Flaming Armageddon) and RMB400 and come away with natural, 里屯雅秀购物中心4层22号(6416 6441); Shimao

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 75 LISTINGS store: Daily 10am-10pm, Shop E301, 3/F, ShiMao Blow+Bar broadwell.cn1) shopping center, Sanlitun, Chaoyang 朝阳区 DENTAL 三里屯工体北路世茂购物中心3层E-301号(8590 0569 ); Ginza store: Daily 10am-10pm, Shop B1- HEALTH SERVICES Arrail Dental 11H, Ginza Mall, Dongzhimen, Dongcheng 东 Affiliated with the University of Pennsyl- 城区东直门东方银座Mall B1-11H号(8447 7178) Amcare Women’s & Children’s Hospital vania, Arrail Dental has access to top-class ; CapitaMall Crystal store: Daily 10am-10pm, With a zero waiting-time policy, top-quality equipment. Its well-trained staff, multiple Shop B1-09,CapitaMall Crystal, Haidian 海淀区复 inpatient facilities, home visits, night ser- locations across town and excellent facili- 兴路51号凯德晶品购物中心B1-09号(8819 7078); vices and transportation assistance, Amcare ties make it one of the best dental provid- CapitaMall Wangjing store: Daily 10am-10pm, provides a trustworthy experience. English- Shop K01, 2/F, CapitaMall Wangjing store, ers in Beijing. English-speaking staff. Dental speaking services include pediatrics, services including examinations, whitening, Guangshun Beidajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区广顺北 gynecology and obstetrics. 大街凯德望京购物中心2层02-K1(5602 0736) ; root-canal treatment, orthodontics and > 9 Fangyuan XiLu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园西 Carrefour Siyuanqiao store: Daily 10am-10pm, implants. 路9号 (6434 2399, 24hr hotline 800 610 6200, www. Shop 08, 3/F, Carrefour Siyuanqiao store,Yiju Lu, >Rm 201, the Exchange-Beijing, 118B Jianguo Lu, amcare.com.cn) Chaoyang 朝阳区四元桥家乐福购物中心3层08号 Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路乙118号国贸桥东南角京 (647 71889) AWARD WINNING HAIR SALON 汇大厦201室 (6567 5670); Rm 208, Tower A, CITIC American-Sino OB/GYN/Pediatrics Ser- Building, 19 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝 FROM SINGAPORE FREE vices 北京美华妇儿医院 阳区建国门外大街19号国际大厦A座208室 (6500 HAIR SALONS Sanlitun 3.3 Mall L3 | Contact 51365432 WINE > 18 anyuan road,chaoyang district,Beijing 北京市朝 6473); Rm 308, Tower A, Raycom Info Tech Park 2 Wechat/Instagram: blowplusbar 阳区安苑路18号 (8443 9666, bj.americanobgyn.com) Kexueyuan Nanlu, Haidian 海淀区中关村科学院南路2 Laurent Falcon 号融科资讯中心A座308室 (8286 1956); Rm 101, Bldg This salon is equipped with more than Beijing International Medical Center 16, China Central Place, 89 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang shampoo – the team here provides (IMC) 朝阳区建国路89号华贸中心公寓16号楼101室 (8588 haircuts, dye, updos, hair treatments and Established in 1993, the International Medi- 8550/60/70); 1/F, Somerset Fortune Garden, 46 more. With prices for almost everything cal Center-Beijing counts on an expert team Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路46号燕莎 listed under RMB1,000, Blow+ is a haven of of foreign doctors, offering a wide range of 东侧盛捷福景苑1层 (8440 1926) reasonably priced good taste in Sanlitun’s medical services, including family medicine, PrettySmile Dental 3.3 Mall. They have champagne and a psychological services, dental, ob/gyn, If you are looking for professional and well-stocked bar, so bring your friends and pediatrics and TCM. Drop-in services for comfortable dental care, PrettySmile Dental make a night of it. travelers; x-rays and ultrasounds are also ishighly recommended by many patients. available. English, Farsi, Japanese, Chinese, >3/F 3.3 Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Sanlitun, Chaoyang朝 The clinic is standing out because of the Arabic and Russian spoken. 阳区三里屯路33号3.3服3/F (for appointments, call professional team, all doctors are from the 5136 5432) > 24hours. Room S106/111 Lufthansa Center, 50 Liangmahe Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路50号燕莎 dental hospital of and Sport 中心写字楼1层S106 (6465 1561/2/3, 6465 1384/28, most of them got professional training in www.imclinics.com) USA. The strictest sterilization processes California Fitness Beijing Club and high-end imported equipment and California Fitness Beijing’s Group X program Beijing United Family Hospital and Clin- materials all help guarantee the highest is among the best in the region, and with ics 北京和睦家医院 quality of all dental services. membership you have access to over 150 > Wi-fi internet. Lido, Emergency Room is open >Mon-Fri, 9.30am-6pm (closed Thu); 5-105-1, weekly Group X classes and a team of 24/7/365, Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm; 2 Jiangtai Road, Building 5, Sanlitun SOHO Chaoyang 朝阳区三里 professional personal trainers in Asia. Your Chaoyang District, 朝阳区将台路2号. (5927 7000 / 屯SOHO 5号商场1层5-105 (5785 3689/5785 3898, membership also includes free towel usage 5927 7120 Emergency Hotline);United Family CBD www.prettysmiledental.cn, [email protected]) and a fitness assessment. Clinic和睦家朝外诊所 Mon-Sat, 9.30am-6.30pm, >South Tower, L4, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang (4008 Suite 3017, Building AB, Vantone Center, 6 Chaowai Joinway Dental 100-988,www,californiafitness.com) Street, Chaoyang, 朝阳区朝阳门外大街6号万通中心 A reputable and trusted dental practice, AB座2层3017室(5907 1266); Jianguomen Health and Joinway Dental provides the perfect com- Cycle China Inc. 北京非常之旅 Wellness Center和睦家建国门保健中心, Wi-fi internet, bination of cutting edge technology and Cycle China provides organized cycling and Mon-Sun 8:30am-5pm, 21 Jianguomen Dajie, B1, The comfortable treatment, while maintain- hiking tours in and aroundBeijing as well St. Regis Residence, St. Regis Hotel朝阳区建国门外大 ing the strictest sanitary and sterilization as longer tours throughout China. 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NB210, 2/F, CBD, Guomao, China World Shopping Mall, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie建外 of quality with a focus on innovative and 大街1号国贸商城地下2层 (6505 9439/31/93, www. expanded clinical services and excellent sdmdental.com); Mon-Fri 9am-8pm.Olympic Area,F- patient care. 0186B, Sunshine Plaza, 68 Anli Lu(east of Sunshine > Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Building, No.16 Plaza)亚运村安立路68号阳光广场东侧 (6497 Xinyuanli, Chaoyang 朝阳区新源里16号琨莎中心1座105 2173,6498 2173) ; Mon-Sun 10am-19pm.LB07-08, 室(6462 9112/ 6462 9100, www.internationalsos.com) Euro Plaza, No.99 YuXiang Road,Shunyi 北京顺义区 天竺镇裕翔路99号欧陆广场LB07-08号 (8046 6084); 2 locations in Beijing: the best Yoga for Be- OASIS International Hospital Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. FC222, 21st Century Hotel, 40 ginners! No previous experience necessary OASIS International Hospital specializes in Liang Maqiao Lu,Sanyuanqiao 亮马桥40号21世纪饭 - and if your body is a bit stiff – that’s okay! serving the expatriate community with the 店2层 (6466 4814, 6461 2745); Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. 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Wi-Fi internet. 3/F Kerry Center. 1 Castle, Dawang Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区大望路蓝堡国际 Guanghua Lu 光华路1号嘉里中心商场3层 (8529 Awarded best expat salon in 2014/ 2015, 中心南写字楼2座3层 (8599 7395/96, www.yh42.com); 6618, [email protected], www.vista-china.net) with a trained team of international and 3/F, Bldg. 14, Solana, No. 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu Beijing HarMoniCare Women and Chil- local stylists, colorists and beauticians, this Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色港湾14号,三层 dren’s Hospital 北京和美妇儿医院 > Wi-Fi available. Chaoyang: 2 Xiaoguan Beili, Beijing New Century Harmony Pediatric salon welcomes all ages and budgets in a (5905 6065/67, www.yh42.com) Clinic modern and relaxed atmosphere for a wide Beiyuan Lu 北苑路小关北里甲2号 (6499 0000. con- [email protected], en.hmcare.net) > Shunyi, K-01, Building No.19, Harmony Business range of hair and beauty treatments, Broadwell International Tennis Academy Centre, Liyuan Street, Tianzhu Town 天竺镇丽苑街荣 Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis include manicure, pedicure and waxing. Hongkong International Medical Clinic, 和商业中心19号楼K-01 (6456 2599; harmonypeds@ Wella, SP, INOA, TIGI Center, this indoor club boasts a complete ncich.com.cn, www.ncich.com.cn) state-of-the-art air-supported structure for Beijing 北京港澳国际医务诊所 Language: French, English, Spanish, Chi- > Dongsishitiao: 9/F, Office Tower, Hongkong Macau nese, Russian. all-weather year-round indoor tennis, with Beijing Passion International Medical an advanced lighting system and controlled Center-Swiss Hotel, 2 Chaoyangmen Bei Dajie 朝阳门 > East Avenue BLD Ground Floor, No.10 Xindong Lu, 北大街 号 港澳中心瑞士酒店办公楼 层 Center climate. Ideal for peeps looking to perfect 2 9 (6553 9752, Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路10号逸盛阁首层(8442 5120, 6553 2288/2345/6/7; [email protected]; www. This full-service international clinic 135 2147 3492, [email protected], their service and batting a few balls. hkclinic.com) provides 24-hr general medical care and a Wechat: CDFSalon, www.catherinedefrance.com) > Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang 朝阳区农南路1号朝 patient-centered attitude. Beijing Passion 阳公园网球中心(400 6406 800/ 6595 8885, www. International Medical Center is equipped

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Curriculum 马环岛北侧天北路阿凯笛亚庄园1座(8047 2983); > Free. Tues-Sun 10.30am-6pm. 798 Factory, 2 Jiuxianqiao Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区大山子酒 aside, MSB boasts spacious classrooms, a 20A Xidawang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区西大 >Room 1501, 15/F, Zhongyu Plaza, A6 Gongti Beilu, 望路甲20号首府社区内 (5870 6779) 仙桥路798工厂2号入口前行300米 (5978 9610, www. Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路甲6号中宇大厦1501室 high teacher-student ratio and impres- atngcontemporary.com) sive staff longevity. Tuition: RMB98,000 Beanstalk International Bilingual School Galleria Continua * Gloria Chinese School - RMB177,000/year. 青苗国际双语学校 > Bldg 8, 2A, Xiangjiang Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区香 > Kindergarten: 1/F, Tower B, 40 Liangmaqiao In the often-insular 798, Galleria Continua Focusing on teaching Chinese, making is the international gallery. Their ware- sure your improvements, organizing task- 江北路甲2号院8号楼 (6432 8228 ext. 800, www.msb. 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WeChat:1381 186 4656,www.gloriachinese.com) > Building 17, Area 4, Anzhen Xili Chaoyang 安贞西里4区17楼 (6443 3151 www.biss.com.cn) 大山子艺术区 (5978 9505, www.galleriacontinua.com) Ivy Schools 艾毅幼儿园 The Bridge School Pace Beijing 北京桥汉语言学校 Beijing World Youth Academy > www.ivyschools.com ; East Lake Campus C-101, East Lake Villas, 35 Dongzhimenwai Main With locations in New York, London and Beijing >The Bridge School Head office, Room 503, 5/F, 北京世青国际学校 hosting the likes of Zhang Xiaogang, Yue Minjun, Guangming Hotel, 42 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝 Street, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外大街35号东 Beijing World Youth Academy (BWYA) is an Robert Rauschenberg, Mark Rothko, Kiki Smith 阳区亮马桥路42号光明饭店5层503室(153 2179 3321 international school for students of all na- 湖别墅C座101室(8451 1380/1) ; Ivy Bilingual 艾毅双语幼儿园 and Sol LeWitt, Pace inhabits Bauhaus-style Grettchin) tionalities ages 6 to 18, offering programs School Ocean Express Campus: Building E, Ocean Express, 2 Dongsanhuan buildings 798 is idealized for. 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The Canadian International School > Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm. 18 Huajiadi Beili, Wangjing, MBA & EMBA Schools Chinese and international art, the UCCA has of Beijing develops the whole child in an Chaoyang Inside 94 Middle school 北京市朝阳 the curatorial power and financial backing environmentally sensitive school within a 区望京花家地北里18号(6461 7787 ext.32, 8454 Rutgers International Executive MBA to put together some of Beijing’s most kind, caring community to become a citizen 3478/0649, [email protected], www.ibwya.net) > 5/F China Life Tower, 16 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang impressive exhibitions. of the world. 朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦 (5877 1706, La Maison Montessori de Pekin > RMB10, free Thursdays. Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. 798 > 38 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路38 www.rutgersinasia.com) Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝 号 (6465 7788,www.cisb.com.cn) 北京中法双语蒙氏儿童之家 The first bilingual French-Chinese Montes- 阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区 (5780 0200, www.ucca. BBA at BFSU-SolBridge org.cn) Springboard International Bilingual sori kindergarten in Beijing, it welcomes 北京外国语大学国际商学院 School 君诚国际双语学校 children between ages 2 to 6 years old. > 19 Xisanhuan Beilu, Haidian, 海淀区西三环北 Space Station Springboard International Bilingual School The kindergarten is located in a beautiful 路19号 (solbridge.bfsu.edu.cn, 8881 6563/8881 Not often shown in 789’s sea of elites, Space Sta- is a place where children, staff and parents courtyard in the hutongs. Schedule: Mon- 6763/8881 8537) tion presents a younger generation of domestic work in partnership to enable all their day to Friday: 8:30am to 3:30pm. After class artists. Exhibitions tend to have a good curatorial students to realize their full potential. They activities also offered. LEMBA understanding of space and high-quality 2D work. > 50 Dongsi Shisitiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四十四条 are offering a stimulating and full inter- The Leadership EMBA from the University > Free, Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 4 Jiuxianqiao Rd798 Art District, 50号 (131 2025 0341/ 8401 3974; lamaisonmontes- national curriculum as well as an exciting of Maryland Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区中一街 [email protected]; www.lamaisonmontessoridepk. after school program, which will include Robert H. Smith School of Business is (5978 9671) Kung Fu, calligraphy, health and fitness and com) a unique learning experience in Beijing. football. The program offers world class executive Tang Contemporary Art Beijing Mandarin School and leadership education from some of > 15 Gucheng Duan, Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, Established in 1998, Beijing Mandarin Stressing cutting-edge exhibition installa- 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段 号 the best professors the world has to offer. Shunyi 15 (8049 School is the city’s top institute for teaching tion and curatorial theory. With locations 2450; www.sibs.com.cn, [email protected]) spoken and written Mandarin as a second Every month one of the professors from the in Bangkok, Hong Kong and Beijing, Tang language, more than 5,000 students University of Maryland comes to Beijing to focuses on promoting artistic exchange The British School of Beijing 北京英国学校 from over 66 countries and more than 80 instruct the class for 4 consecutive throughout East Asia. The British School of Beijing, established in companies and embassies have successfully > days (Thurs – Sun). The program lasts 18 months; > Free. Tues-Sun 10.30am-6pm. 798 Factory, 2 2003, has campuses in Shunyi (primary & learned with us each year. Also recognized the impact lasts a lifetime. (8526 2528/29, beijing@ Jiuxianqiao Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区大山子酒 secondary) and Sanlitun (primary). BSB of- and recommended by BBC News as one of rhsmith.umd.edu) 仙桥路798工厂2号入口前行300米 (5978 9610, www. atngcontemporary.com)

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WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2017 | 79 MAY That’s Beijing Horoscopes Finally, a horoscope that understands your life in Beijing. by Noelle Mateer

Taurus Gemini Cancer Leo 4.21~5.21 5.22~6.21 6.22~7.22 7.23~8.23

It’s a stressful, anxiety-ridden You’ve been bad lately, and now it’s You’re searching, looking for Your celestial house of intellect is month. Try some TCM or cupping, or, time to repent. Climb on top of a answers. Perhaps you’ll find those strong this month, so learn something well, just ask one of the old ladies really tall thing – the Bird’s Nest is answers in a book at The Bookworm. new or study something old. But who hangs out in your neighborhood open now – and look out over Beijing Or maybe you won’t – we don’t we hope you aren’t studying for the courtyard – she’ll know what to do. while thinking about your choices. actually know. Only enter subway gaokao. The stars spell bad luck if Follow her advice and your troubles Drink snake baijiu on the 4th and you stations from the south. you’re taking the gaokao. will go away by the 16th. will find love. Maybe.

Virgo Libra Scorpio Sagittarius 8.24~9.23 9.24~10.23 10.24~11.22 11.23~12.21

You’re in a fighting mood this month. You will accomplish whatever you set Your advice from the stars this month Take time to go outside this month Haggle your rent down, ask for a out to achieve this May – as long as is toilet-specific. When using the – maybe even outside the Fifth Ring raise, or challenge the Laobeijing in you set really easy goals. Vow to read bathroom anywhere in Dongcheng Road (wild, we know). We hear the your apartment block to a ping-pong one chapter of a book, or go for one district, do not flush your toilet Great Wall is supposed to be cool. match. Wear purple on the 19th or run at Chaoyang Park. Spin around paper. How many times do we have to As for inauspicious omens, avoid your favorite lamian place will shut three times before boarding the tell you to put it in the trash? Nanluoguxiang on weekends. For the down. Airport Express. rest of your life.

Capricorn Aquarius Pisces Aries 12.22~1.20 1.21~2.19 2.20~3.20 3.21~4.20

You’re feeling creative this month, You will meet a beautiful stranger May is a month of ups and downs for Tell that special someone how so take time to express yourself. at a Sanlitun bar and spend hours you. Maintain a sense of normality by you really feel with a romantic, Consider taking a painting class, or conversing under the night sky. establishing a routine. We suggest smelly boat ride on Houhai or a long singing loudly in a public park. Do Unfortunately that stranger will turn starting every day with congee and walk past all your favorite hutong not ride Subway Line 4, or misfortune out to be a backpacker staying in a ending it with niurou gaifan. Only construction sites. Wear a face mask will befall you. hostel near the Forbidden City. Ditch speak Mandarin under a full moon. on the 15th for good luck. them.

80 | MAY 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM