<<

151

BOOK REVIEWS

TIDAL DYNAMICS: COASTAL FLOODING enhancement of that combined luni-solar ­ AND CYCLES OF GRAVITATIONAL raising effect, which the author calls a "proxi­ FORCE, by Fergus J. Wood, 1985, D. Reidel gee" situation. At a proxigee-syzygy alignment Publ. Co., Dordrecht/Boston, etc. 558p $149.00, the comes on average 27,923 km closer to ISBN 90-277-1910-1. the than at ordinary syzygy, and 3,366 km closer than at average perigee-syzygy. The lunar nodical cycle of 18.6134 yr. corre­ This is a very remarkable volume, a unique sponds to the Moon's changing declination and source of information. It is regrettably expen­ the Earth's precessional nutation, but is not sive but nevertheless copies of it should be in itself a tide-generating periodicity, only the every coastal library. It treats with the long­ angle of its orbit with respect to the equator. It term behavior of from the point of view of does however affect the alignment. At times it people living on the coast, and of engineers and is almost coincident (in phase) with the "B environmentalists who need to plan for cycle", e.g. Jan. 4, 1912, so the extreme proxi­ extremely hazardous situations that occur from gee-syzygy peaks occurred on, and for several time to time. Disregarding all the other factors decades before and after that date. A compara­ such as tsunamis, hurricane surges, wave set­ ble crest was 186.04 (2 x 93.02) yrs. before, on up, low-atmospheric pressure and so on, just Dec. 19, 1725. Nevertheless convergences of the consider the 40% augmentation of mean spring various cycles result in much more frequent at during a perigee­ peak tidal events, e.g. December 31,1986. Coin­ syzygy alignment! Synchronous incidence of cidences of extreme proxigee-syzygy with high both the latter and the passage of a low pres­ lunar declination (nodical cycle) took place in sure frontal cannot be predicted with any long­ 1632,1725,1818,1912,2005. term precision, but it has an actuarial proba­ From the humanistic point of view, one bility. The chances are greatly increased, how­ should refer to the supplement section (p. ever, because the tsunami, or the weather con­ 431.15-431.26). Here the incredibly destructive dition itself may be triggered by the same lunar North Sea coastal disasters of the last millen­ stress peak. nium are documented. Each major disaster cor­ The author is a scientist formerly with the responds to some combination of the series A National Ocean Survey of NOAA (the National and B cycles, +1- 2 or 3 days. Of course, this Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, does not imply that prediction is possible, Washington), for whom a first edition of this because storm fronts must coincide with the book was written in 1978. Excellent at the time, tide peaks, but probabilities are greatly it was very little publicized or reviewed. The enhanced. new edition contains all the useful information I would strongly recommend starting at the of the first version but has now been expanded beginning and not just browsing. There is so by about one third. The author assumes no prior much interesting and important material for knowledge of , so that any literate coastal people that one cannot afford to ignore person can pick up the book and start reading. either the fundamental principles or the fasci­ According to the analyses of Fergus Wood, nating historical data. For example, did you only two fundamental tidal cycles explain all of know that the most destructive (non-tropical) the great historical coastal flooding events. His coastal storm ever recorded in northeastern "series A" is the 1.13 tropical-year lunar evec­ North America was at the (18.03 yr tional period (14 lunar ) which gener­ perigee-syzygy and 31.008 yr perihelion align­ ates a perigee-syzygy approximation. Secondly, ment) on March 6-7, 1962? And incidentally, in his "series B", an 18.03 ... yr. cycle, leads to Europe three earlier there was a similar

Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 4. No.1, 1988 152

storm in the North Sea area on February 16, informed reflection on the state of the subject 1962? We might add that Robert Currie has with a view of planning the next steps forward. identified the 18.6 yr. lunar nodical cycle in The book, with eleven Chapters and some 340 long-term tree-ring records and several geo­ pages, is well illustrated throughout, with some physical parameters, so that we are evidently two hundred line drawings and two half tones. not dealing with a simple oceanographic effect, The short, introductory Chapter 1 outlines the but with one that modulates geomagnetic sig­ descriptive, empirical and deterministic nals and atmospheric dynamics. approaches and argues for the last based upon Fergus Wood's major contribution to this the first but resorting reluctantly to the second increasingly important field comes at a most when inadequate theory is available. The book appropriate time when the eyes of scientists remains true to these objectives. The Chapter around the world are being directed to the ris­ also sets a temporal context through sea-level ing dangers and threats of large-scale coastal change and concludes with a patchy discussion disasters. of fluvial sediment inputs to the world ocean. Chapter Two is a well written, concise but comprehensive description of the mineralogical Rhodes W. Fairbridge and physical properties of sediments, the bulk Columbia University of which deals with the acquisition and analysis New York, New York of grain size distributions and with their poten­ tial for palaeoenvironmental interpretation. Dyer presents all of the old arguments but makes no choices. The sixty pages of Chapter 3, COASTAL AND ESTAURINE SEDIMENT DYNAM­ on Fluid Flow, begin at the beginning with ICS, by Keith R. Dyer, 1986, John Wiley & Sons, mass continuity, drag and open channel flow. Chichester, 342 p, £36.50stg, ISBN 0-471­ Dyer then finds his pace with a very detailed 90876-2. description of boundary layers exemplified by flow over bedforms. The reader is brought right up to date with Dyer's Group's last work on The author, Professor Dyer, was Head of the some of the subject's theoretical shortcomings Sedimentation Group at the Institute of Ocean­ through detailed discussions of the reference ographic Sciences until savage financial cuts height for roughness lengths and turbulent broke up the team which he had assembled and bursting phenomena. Tides are covered descrip­ led to the forefront of rigorous research. The tively in six pages and Airy wave theory field of marine sediment dynamics will sadly receives similarly short shrift, and then Dyer miss the collective works of Heathershaw, again changes pace for a brief but comprehen­ Langhorne, Carr, Davies, SouIsby and of Dyer sible section on wave-induced boundary layers. himself and will echo the hope, which is There are two possible solutions to the prob­ expressed in the preface, that the group will lem of summarising and explaining the vast reform with the same zeal elsewhere, possibly body of theory and Iiterature which lies behind in Plymouth where the author has now taken Chapters 4 to 8, the Sediment Dynamics of the up again as Dean ofthe new Institute of Marine book's title. This is because the initiation and Studies. The work of Dyer's group reflected the subsequent transport of sediment must be dealt decades of change in Marine Geoscience from with in both steady and reversing flows. Dyer the geologists broad description of the seafloor, chooses the route which presents the initiation through the demands of engineering and pilo­ of bedload transport in first steady and then tage for an improved understanding of bathy­ reversing flow (Chapter 4: Sediment Movement metric evolution and into our ongoing technical and Chapter 5: Sediment Movement Under and mathematical assault on the fine scale Waves) before combining both initiation and physics of wave and tidal boundary layers and flux of suspended sediment under both steady the resulting seabed sand transport. Coastal and reversing currents in Chapter 6 (Sediment and Estuarine Sediment Dynamics is not a his­ Suspension). Dyer then returns to bedload rates tory book, but it is the story of those develop­ in Chapter 7 (Sediment Transport Rate) and ments written by, and one suspects for, finally deals wi th Cohensive Sediments in

Journal of Coastal Research. Vol. 4, No. 1. 1988