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IN ASSOCIATION WITH WELCOME CONTENTS Meet the rising stars 30 under 30 3 Me and my mentor 29 On the road to success 34 The big interview 36 of fashion retailing Competition 39 Tooled up 40 Back to the shopfloor 44 There’s nothing quite like several of these in particular this year), the editing Drapers Next fashion sector is bursting at the seams with Generation supplement to talented people. remind me of how much It’s no wonder, given how inspirational talent we have in our fashion’s established leaders are. We speak industry. Now in its third to the likes of Marks & Spencer’s Kate year, the concept never Bostock and the hugely talented ceases to amaze me. Christopher Kane about their mentors, and Just when I think we can’t better the go back to the shopfloor with Oasis previous year’s 30 under 30 feature, where managing director Liz Evans. we profile 30 talented individuals under the On March 22, we’ll welcome the Next age of 30, our industry’s future stars show Generation of stars to our exclusive one-day just how passionate and brilliant they are. academy, part of the Next Generation From buyers and merchandisers, to concept. See p39 for details on how to be designers and store managers, to garment part of it. I look forward to seeing you there. technologists and entrepreneurs (there are Ana Santi, Deputy editor IN ASSOCIATION WITH A wonderful chance PARTNERS to nurture talent For the third consecutive have eased by now. Unfortunately that is year we have decided to not the case as yet. We have to remain sponsor the Drapers Next optimistic though, and what better way Generation initiative. As than witnessing the talent and enthusiasm a major recruiter for the of young people entering the industry. fashion industry it is With regards to future opportunities, it Editor-in-Chief Caroline Nodder obviously important for occurs to me that the increase in wage and Deputy Editor Ana Santi us to keep our brand out there. transport costs out of Asia, and possible Group Production Editor Steve Draper However, this event is different because economic pressure building in China, could Supplements Production Editor Tracey Gardner it is about the nurturing and development well present an opportunity for investment Group Art Director Alison Fisher of new talent. The previous two years have in UK-based manufacturing, building a Contributors Åse Anderson, Suzanne Bearne, demonstrated how much the young stronger base for the country’s future. Manfreda Cavazza, Josephine Collins Production Manager Jo Lambert delegates gain from the day. Not only in Encouragement from the Government Group Commercial Directors terms of hearing key industry figures speak, would give a massive boost both to the Mandy Clusky and Joby Mussell but in being able to network and share economy and employment prospects for Advertising Manager Julia Jones-Collins Account Managers experiences with their peers. young people. It would re-open job prospects Peter Bruce-Smythe, Annie Hogan The 2012 event is two-and-a-half times in technology, production management Managing Director Retail Group Tracey Davies bigger than the first, three years ago, and and design that do not currently exist in the Greater London House, Hampstead Rd, we expect it to grow into one of the most UK. A resurgence of the UK clothing London NW1 7EJ Tel: 020 7728 5000 important annual events in the industry manufacturing industry? We live in hope. calendar. Last year I wrote about the tough Stephen Selby, Managing director, times that we are all facing, expecting it to Success Appointments Drapers Next Generation 1 30 UNDER 30 Dean Thomas History in the making: Dean Thomas specialises Designer, Burberry London, aged 26 in heritage fashion for Burberry London womenswear designer Burberry London Dean Thomas hails from Dulverton in Somerset, which is significant to his story. He sourced every component for the garments in his Central Saint Martins’ graduation collection in 2008 from within a 50-mile radius of his home town. This helped Thomas understand the craft of fashion as he sourced the wool, yarn, feathers and weaving locally, getting to know how artisans work. His show caught the attention of publications such as Vogue and The Daily Telegraph, and set the tone for his career. Thomas cherishes British heritage Drapers assembles 30 buyers, fashion, which has been recognised by invitations to a Buckingham Palace designers, merchandisers and Garden Party and a Clarence House discussion on the use of British wool. entrepreneurs under the age of His first job was with Hobbs, where he 30 who are tipped to become worked on the retailer’s Heritage & Artisan collection – the range used 100% fashion industry stars British materials and manufacture. He also worked on Hobbs’ NW3 sub-brand. Thomas was clearly heading for Words Josephine Collins a role at a heritage brand, and his big opportunity came along in March 2011 when he joined the Burberry London team. » Drapers Next Generation 3 30 UNDER 30 « Alexia Hentsch Founder, Hentsch Man, aged 30 With a background in graphic design and branding, Alexia Hentsch was working for influential tastemaker Tyler Brûlé at his Winkreative consultancy when she spotted a gap in the market for the perfect white shirt. It had to be well cut and a “decent price”, says Hentsch. A key piece from the Starting in 2008 with a very small run Hentsch Man collection and largely selling direct to family and friends, Hentsch Man was quickly the brand has moved away from white- noticed by super-cool indie Opening only shirts. The autumn 12 collection, Ceremony in New York, which “pushed showing at Pitti Uomo, includes knitwear us to build the brand – with trousers and is the biggest to date. and knitwear – to make it into a full As well as Opening Ceremony, collection”, she says. the brand has grown to 25 accounts With no fashion industry background, worldwide, including The Shop at Hentsch used her initiative and contacts; Bluebird, Trunk and Mr Porter in the UK. a native Brazilian Portuguese speaker, While Hentsch would eventually like she initially had all her product made in to open a Hentsch Man standalone store, Portugal. Now, as the collection has she is content for now to “have a really grown, she also uses Italian and Spanish good time and make fun of ourselves”. factories. “We’re committed to Europe, But the business is no joke – in just and it’s practical because the factories a few seasons, turnover has reached are happy with small minimums.” £1m and wholesale account orders While the emphasis remains on the fit, are doubling each year. Sarah Coomber Head of merchandising, women’s clothing, New Look, aged 30 I predicted that Sarah The combination of product and numbers was destined for the is what inspires Sarah Coomber, head of merchandising for women’s clothing at top. I’m so pleased New Look, which she joined in 2011 after that she’s now a head eight years at BHS. Starting as an assistant merchandiser of merchandising in BHS sportswear following a business Mary Anderson-Ford, director, degree at Cardiff University, she worked Bloom Retail her way up to junior merchandising and merchandising roles in a number of the retailer’s departments. With ambitions to take a merchan- “Over those eight years, I got to work dising directorship one day, Coomber closely with many great people, including says: “I love the way the numbers [owner] Sir Philip Green and [millionaire work with the products. I try to take supplier and long-term associate of everything in my stride and not get Green] Richard Caring, who helped stressed. If things do go wrong, you me learn [key] skills.” have to learn and move on.” Coomber joined New Look because she Mary Anderson-Ford, director of “wanted to test myself with fast fashion. recruitment firm Bloom Retail, says: I’ve adapted my style to it really well”. “I first met Sarah when she was an And after just six months as head assistant merchandiser at BHS, and of merchandising for footwear and predicted that she was destined for accessories, she moved up to the clothing the top. I’m so pleased that she’s now role in October. a head of merchandising.” 4 Drapers Next Generation Drapers Next Generation 5 30 UNDER 30 Louise Kluka, Merchandiser, A-Wear, aged 30 Luke Horan Starting her fashion career as an allocator UK flagship store manager, Coach, aged 30 for Kaliko, Louise Kluka A graduate from Arcadia and having that bond with being involved in the went on to Bay Trading Group’s management the team.” launch of two US brands as an assistant training scheme, Luke His latest move was to in the UK has been very merchandiser and Horan gained the US leather goods brand rewarding. I’ve also then to BHS as assistant merchandiser accolade of youngest Coach, again as part of experienced retail across level three on kidswear. Arcadia London area store the UK launch team the spectrum from volume The big change came for Kluka manager at the age of 19. and taking up the role retailing to luxury retailing when she moved to Dublin as a junior Stints at Warehouse, as manager of its where the customer merchandiser at Irish fashion multiple Burton, Principles and flagship store in New experience is key.” A-Wear. She says: “I have developed so Nicole Farhi followed, Bond Street, London. Ricci Gowland, senior much since I have been here, not only on before he was part of the Horan says: “Arcadia set resourcer at recruitment a personal level with relocating to a UK launch team for me up for success, and company HGA Group, country where I knew no one, but with Banana Republic in 2008.