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CONTENTS Meet the rising stars 30 under 30 3 Me and my mentor 29 On the road to success 34 The big interview 36 of fashion retailing Competition 39 Tooled up 40 Back to the shopfloor 44 There’s nothing quite like several of these in particular this year), the editing Drapers Next fashion sector is bursting at the seams with Generation supplement to talented people. remind me of how much It’s no wonder, given how inspirational talent we have in our fashion’s established leaders are. We speak industry. Now in its third to the likes of Marks & Spencer’s Kate year, the concept never Bostock and the hugely talented ceases to amaze me. Christopher Kane about their mentors, and Just when I think we can’t better the go back to the shopfloor with Oasis previous year’s 30 under 30 feature, where managing director Liz Evans. we profile 30 talented individuals under the On March 22, we’ll welcome the Next age of 30, our industry’s future stars show Generation of stars to our exclusive one-day just how passionate and brilliant they are. academy, part of the Next Generation From buyers and merchandisers, to concept. See p39 for details on how to be designers and store managers, to garment part of it. I look forward to seeing you there. technologists and entrepreneurs (there are Ana Santi, Deputy editor
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For the third consecutive have eased by now. Unfortunately that is year we have decided to not the case as yet. We have to remain sponsor the Drapers Next optimistic though, and what better way Generation initiative. As than witnessing the talent and enthusiasm a major recruiter for the of young people entering the industry. fashion industry it is With regards to future opportunities, it Editor-in-Chief Caroline Nodder obviously important for occurs to me that the increase in wage and Deputy Editor Ana Santi us to keep our brand out there. transport costs out of Asia, and possible Group Production Editor Steve Draper However, this event is different because economic pressure building in China, could Supplements Production Editor Tracey Gardner it is about the nurturing and development well present an opportunity for investment Group Art Director Alison Fisher of new talent. The previous two years have in UK-based manufacturing, building a Contributors Åse Anderson, Suzanne Bearne, demonstrated how much the young stronger base for the country’s future. Manfreda Cavazza, Josephine Collins Production Manager Jo Lambert delegates gain from the day. Not only in Encouragement from the Government Group Commercial Directors terms of hearing key industry figures speak, would give a massive boost both to the Mandy Clusky and Joby Mussell but in being able to network and share economy and employment prospects for Advertising Manager Julia Jones-Collins Account Managers experiences with their peers. young people. It would re-open job prospects Peter Bruce-Smythe, Annie Hogan The 2012 event is two-and-a-half times in technology, production management Managing Director Retail Group Tracey Davies bigger than the first, three years ago, and and design that do not currently exist in the Greater London House, Hampstead Rd, we expect it to grow into one of the most UK. A resurgence of the UK clothing London NW1 7EJ Tel: 020 7728 5000 important annual events in the industry manufacturing industry? We live in hope. calendar. Last year I wrote about the tough Stephen Selby, Managing director, times that we are all facing, expecting it to Success Appointments
Drapers Next Generation 1 30 UNDER 30
Dean Thomas History in the making: Dean Thomas specialises Designer, Burberry London, aged 26 in heritage fashion for Burberry London womenswear designer Burberry London Dean Thomas hails from Dulverton in Somerset, which is significant to his story. He sourced every component for the garments in his Central Saint Martins’ graduation collection in 2008 from within a 50-mile radius of his home town. This helped Thomas understand the craft of fashion as he sourced the wool, yarn, feathers and weaving locally, getting to know how artisans work. His show caught the attention of publications such as Vogue and The Daily Telegraph, and set the tone for his career. Thomas cherishes British heritage Drapers assembles 30 buyers, fashion, which has been recognised by invitations to a Buckingham Palace designers, merchandisers and Garden Party and a Clarence House discussion on the use of British wool. entrepreneurs under the age of His first job was with Hobbs, where he 30 who are tipped to become worked on the retailer’s Heritage & Artisan collection – the range used 100% fashion industry stars British materials and manufacture. He also worked on Hobbs’ NW3 sub-brand. Thomas was clearly heading for Words Josephine Collins a role at a heritage brand, and his big opportunity came along in March 2011 when he joined the Burberry London team. »
Drapers Next Generation 3 30 UNDER 30
« Alexia Hentsch Founder, Hentsch Man, aged 30
With a background in graphic design and branding, Alexia Hentsch was working for influential tastemaker Tyler Brûlé at his Winkreative consultancy when she spotted a gap in the market for the perfect white shirt. It had to be well cut and a “decent price”, says Hentsch. A key piece from the Starting in 2008 with a very small run Hentsch Man collection and largely selling direct to family and friends, Hentsch Man was quickly the brand has moved away from white- noticed by super-cool indie Opening only shirts. The autumn 12 collection, Ceremony in New York, which “pushed showing at Pitti Uomo, includes knitwear us to build the brand – with trousers and is the biggest to date. and knitwear – to make it into a full As well as Opening Ceremony, collection”, she says. the brand has grown to 25 accounts With no fashion industry background, worldwide, including The Shop at Hentsch used her initiative and contacts; Bluebird, Trunk and Mr Porter in the UK. a native Brazilian Portuguese speaker, While Hentsch would eventually like she initially had all her product made in to open a Hentsch Man standalone store, Portugal. Now, as the collection has she is content for now to “have a really grown, she also uses Italian and Spanish good time and make fun of ourselves”. factories. “We’re committed to Europe, But the business is no joke – in just and it’s practical because the factories a few seasons, turnover has reached are happy with small minimums.” £1m and wholesale account orders While the emphasis remains on the fit, are doubling each year.
Sarah Coomber Head of merchandising, women’s clothing, New Look, aged 30 I predicted that Sarah The combination of product and numbers was destined for the is what inspires Sarah Coomber, head of merchandising for women’s clothing at top. I’m so pleased New Look, which she joined in 2011 after that she’s now a head eight years at BHS. Starting as an assistant merchandiser of merchandising in BHS sportswear following a business Mary Anderson-Ford, director, degree at Cardiff University, she worked Bloom Retail her way up to junior merchandising and merchandising roles in a number of the retailer’s departments. With ambitions to take a merchan- “Over those eight years, I got to work dising directorship one day, Coomber closely with many great people, including says: “I love the way the numbers [owner] Sir Philip Green and [millionaire work with the products. I try to take supplier and long-term associate of everything in my stride and not get Green] Richard Caring, who helped stressed. If things do go wrong, you me learn [key] skills.” have to learn and move on.” Coomber joined New Look because she Mary Anderson-Ford, director of “wanted to test myself with fast fashion. recruitment firm Bloom Retail, says: I’ve adapted my style to it really well”. “I first met Sarah when she was an And after just six months as head assistant merchandiser at BHS, and of merchandising for footwear and predicted that she was destined for accessories, she moved up to the clothing the top. I’m so pleased that she’s now role in October. a head of merchandising.”
4 Drapers Next Generation Drapers Next Generation 5 30 UNDER 30
Louise Kluka, Merchandiser, A-Wear, aged 30 Luke Horan Starting her fashion career as an allocator UK flagship store manager, Coach, aged 30 for Kaliko, Louise Kluka A graduate from Arcadia and having that bond with being involved in the went on to Bay Trading Group’s management the team.” launch of two US brands as an assistant training scheme, Luke His latest move was to in the UK has been very merchandiser and Horan gained the US leather goods brand rewarding. I’ve also then to BHS as assistant merchandiser accolade of youngest Coach, again as part of experienced retail across level three on kidswear. Arcadia London area store the UK launch team the spectrum from volume The big change came for Kluka manager at the age of 19. and taking up the role retailing to luxury retailing when she moved to Dublin as a junior Stints at Warehouse, as manager of its where the customer merchandiser at Irish fashion multiple Burton, Principles and flagship store in New experience is key.” A-Wear. She says: “I have developed so Nicole Farhi followed, Bond Street, London. Ricci Gowland, senior much since I have been here, not only on before he was part of the Horan says: “Arcadia set resourcer at recruitment a personal level with relocating to a UK launch team for me up for success, and company HGA Group, country where I knew no one, but with Banana Republic in 2008. says: “Luke is a passionate implementing processes and different Horan then joined retailer who uses logic ways of working and adapting to an All Saints and became and common sense to international customer.” general manager of the drive sales and build Kluka was just 28 when promoted Regent Street flagship. customer-focused teams. to merchandiser, a role that proved He says: “What motivates In a 12-year career, Luke challenging. “It was a huge learning me is my ability to develop has become well respected curve going from junior merchandiser and enhance the talent in the retail industry as to full merchandiser, but being involved of others around me. I someone who is destined with the strategy and planning process is love working with people for big things.” great. I love working alongside the buyers – range building and seeing the fruits of our labour going into stores – and achieving high return on sales.” Dan O’Callaghan And what makes her love A-Wear? Senior manager, merchandise planning and “Each week is different,” she says. “There allocation, Timberland Europe, aged 30 is always a deadline you are working towards. You can never get bored as you A veteran of George at merchandising branded are constantly working on three seasons Asda and of Tesco’s hardlines and softlines for at any one time.” Central European Tesco’s biggest stores. Mary Anderson-Ford, director of clothing team in Prague, Now working for a Bloom Retail, says of Kluka: “Louise is as well as having spent a brand, rather than one of the most liked and respected year teaching maths in retailer, O’Callaghan says: merchandisers in the business. She’s Uganda, Dan O’Callaghan “You can see the passion carved a career working for some of the started at Timberland in in peoples’ attitudes best fashion brands, and will go far.” March 2011, overseeing towards Timberland. a merchandising team of It’s creative and dynamic 11 for its 77 European with some inspirational multichannel stores. people at the helm, which “My BSc in business European clothing team. pushes you to do well in management was part Based in Prague, he was your own area. business and part maths, part of the team of buyers “Merchandising is a so gave me a perfect and merchandisers who very satisfying role for platform for my current launched own-brand a process-driven mind role,” he says. F&F. Starting as assistant like my own, with every Starting out as an merchandiser on ladies’ action taken having assistant merchandiser wovens, he quickly a quantative reaction. So for boyswear at George, moved up the ladder and analysing performances O’Callaghan moved to was made merchandise to make a difference Tesco after 18 months, manager in 2008 – taking to your brand is very joining the new Central responsibility for gratifying.” »
4 Drapers Next Generation Drapers Next Generation 5 30 UNDER 30
« Annie Burrows Product development manager, Planet, aged 30
Making the move was a key achievement in my career,” from menswear to she says, “as these areas formed a large womenswear is never percentage of the brand’s range.” easy, but that’s what But Burrows hankered after a Annie Burrows has womenswear role, and after two more achieved, with stints years with Austin Reed she won the at some of the UK’s best known retailers Country Casuals petites buyership and brands. within the Austin Reed group. Now a year into her job as product “I’d been advised that I would find development manager for Jacques it difficult to get a role in womenswear Vert-owned womenswear retailer Planet, as my career history had been in Burrows’ degree in fashion buying and menswear, but this never deterred fashion design from De Montfort me from my ambition.” University first led her to a job as buyers’ A product director in the making, admin assistant for the men’s Linea range Burrows says of her career so far: “As at House of Fraser. This was followed everyone who works as part of a fashion by a move to House of Fraser’s own-label buying team will probably tell you, I’ve kidswear and, later, a promotion to always loved clothes and love to shop, and assistant buyer. in my role at Planet you have to live and Burrows consolidated her menswear breathe fashion every day. It’s not easy experience at Austin Reed where she and a good job is not just going to fall bagged her first buyer’s role on accessories into your lap – you need to work hard, and footwear – just five years after leaving stay focused and, most of all, always be university. Shortly afterwards, shirts and enthusiastic no matter what task you ties were added to her remit. “I believe this are doing.”
Joanne Easthope Junior garment technologist, George at Asda, aged 26
Earmarked as a future George brand director technical manager, Joanne Fiona Lambert says: “Jo Easthope’s love of fashion demonstrates maturity, and textiles was sparked with a strong desire to when she joined her local learn from her peers and George at Asda while line managers. She has studying for her A-Levels. undertaken several After a textile and retail key projects that we management degree, would normally expect including an internship at colleagues at a higher New Look, Easthope grade to undertake.” joined value chain Easthope says: “I love Peacocks as assistant waking in the morning garment technologist on selected as an ‘accelerate to know I’m going to do lingerie. But she was back colleague’ – George’s way something I enjoy and at Asda in 2009 to join of identifying staff with make a difference the head office staff as potential. Often working delivering exceptional a George assistant overseas, Easthope is product to a customer. garment technologist developing a broad When I walk into a store on menswear. Within a range of skills, including and see a garment I’ve year, she was promoted being part of the Hope helped to create I get to junior garment School committee, a real buzz – it’s technologist. a school set up in overwhelming and Easthope is seen as a Bangladesh by George makes me feel very proud high-flyer in the business, and the Hope Foundation. of my achievements.” »
6 Drapers Next Generation Month 00 2010 Drapers 6 30 UNDER 30
« Samuel d’Avoine Footwear designer, Dr Martens, aged 26 Don’t depend on or Described by Success Appointments wait for anyone else operations director Kate Barron as a “real ball of talent”, Samuel d’Avoine to get where you is in his second season as a designer at want. Work super Dr Martens. Asked to describe his role, he says: “Evolving one of the best hard and stay hungry footwear brands in the world. Dr Samuel d’Avoine, footwear designer, Martens was a revolutionary footwear Dr Martens invention and remains unique in function and construction. They’re iconic and one of few footwear brands that have His next move was to shoemaker been adopted by different cult groups.” Loake in its factory in Kettering. D’Avoine studied footwear design D’Avoine was involved in the entire and making at De Montfort University footwear creation process. After just before becoming an accessories designer a year, he joined Dr Martens, where for Puma, feeding his passion for he considers himself to be “extremely performance fashion design. fortunate”. He says: “I get paid to design “Working for Puma gave me insight shoes and travel the world. It’s nice. and understanding of how both the I play a part in the evolution of footwear [fashion] industry and a global brand design and manufacturing.” operate, which was essential experience He adds: “Don’t depend on or wait for me,” he says. “It helped me realise my for anyone else to get where you want. passion was as much in making as in It’s all on you. Work super hard, stay design. The experience taught me the hungry, keep the passion, keep your importance of being as close to the conscience, and put some love into manufacturing process as possible.” all the work you do.”
Katrín Alda and Rebekka Rafnsdóttir Founders, Kalda, aged 28 and 24
Splitting their time sell clothes in 2009. between Reykjavík and “We’re not designers so London, sisters Katrín we needed to figure out Alda and Rebekka how to express ourselves.” Rafnsdóttir founded The pair found a contemporary casual formula and launched womenswear brand their first full range at Kalda in 2010. It was trade show CPH Vision picked up exclusively in Copenhagen for by Liberty in London for autumn 11. autumn 11 and spring 12. The brand is picking up Alda describes Kalda, media interest, garnering which is made in Iceland, coverage in British Vogue, as channelling a “modern Rafnsdóttir studied Time Out and Swedish minimalism that results philosophy and creative Elle, as well as several in undemanding yet writing in Iceland. Icelandic publications. discretely seductive After a brief stint at Kalda also has a shop in clothes”. Marios Schwab, assisting Reykjavík. “So far the Alda graduated with mainly with production, shop has been keeping us a degree in fashion Alda began to focus on alive,” says Alda. “But we management from her ambition to have her have ambitions – we’ve London College of own label. With her sister, always seen it as an Fashion in 2008 and she started to make and international brand.” »
9 Drapers Month 00 2010 Drapers Next Generation 9 30 UNDER 30
« Harry Brantly Laura Davies, Founder, FB Collection, aged 29 Key account manager, Boardman Bros, aged 28
Inspired by the beach We knew so Laura Davies was lucky in-house designers and culture of Brazil and many people enough to be spotted merchandisers who created for design- when she was on a control the critical path at conscious men, Harry who wanted placement year with high order placement stage.” Brantly launched high-end street fashion accessories Traveling extensively, FB Collection in 2009. supplier Boardman Bros managing production, It was initially a beach men’s on her year out from buying textiles and trims, bat-and-ball brand, which later her fashion marketing Davies says: “I absolutely flourished to include a swimwear swimwear, degree at Manchester love working at range for spring 11. and they Metropolitan University. much on product Boardmans. Sometimes The brand captures the Brazilian “I was in a very basic development as she does it can be very stressful – lifestyle perfectly. The beach bat-and- also wanted support role, but the on sales. “My job is to the challenge is to get as ball sets are called Frescobol, after the anything managing director Philip develop fashion accessory much of the retail buy Portuguese word for the game played Wright saw something product such as hats, as possible. In meetings along the beaches in Brazil. from Brazil in me.” She stayed on gloves and scarves for it can be daunting, but Brantly has built the brand to 50 Harry Brantly, working for the business retailers including it’s like a performance stockists and 100 doors worldwide founder, FB Collection during her final year and Next, Claire’s, Oasis, and I’m good at it.” in two years, including Selfridges, joined full-time in 2004. Debenhams, Tesco, Davies sees herself as Bloomingdale’s and luxury resort Six months in and she Forever 21 and Arcadia. part of the next generation hotels for the trunks, which sell for moved to the sales team as I work closely with the of directors. “I’m going to between £115 and £135. a junior account manager. buyers on developing keep doing the best I can, Based in London and Rio, Brantly Today, as key account their collections and and become a member of previously worked in banking, and set manager she works as I head up a team of the board one day.” up the business with Max Leese, a university and banking friend. “We knew so many people who wanted high-end men’s swimwear, and they Adam Schneider also wanted anything from Brazil.” Topman buyer, Lloyd Shoe Company, aged 29 He continues: “The world is intrigued and inspired by everything Brazilian as he started in the right now, and there is the added tail business so young. wind of the 2014 Football World Cup He had five years on and the 2016 Olympics.” the shopfloor at Office, Genuinely authentic, FB Collection followed by four years uses prints designed by Brazilian at Debenhams with artist Caio Locke. trainee assistant buyer Brantly says: “One more year of and senior assistant building the brand internationally buyer roles, and then and adding product, then a standalone on to Lloyd Shoe store within a year.” Company as buyer With 13 years’ experience four years ago. under his belt in footwear With supply, buying retailing, Adam Schneider and consumer-facing buys for one of the most experience, Schneider directional retailers in relishes the challenge the sector – Topman, of keeping Topman in via concessionaire pole position. “I’d love Lloyd Shoe Company. to be a buying director With responsibility for one day, but right now the Topman own brand my challenge is to make and for the branded offer, sure that Topman stays Schneider says he has at number one.” managed to rack up many more years of Top buyer: Schneider heads experience than some up Topman’s own brand of his contemporaries, and branded offer »
10 Drapers Next Generation Month 00 2010 Drapers 10 30 UNDER 30
« Natalie Hamilton Acting head of product development, Hobbs, aged 29
Natalie Hamilton has role. You are working around 10 risen to the challenge other buyers’ admin assistants all of being acting head of wanting promotion.” product development She worked up to assistant buyer at Hobbs, following before leaving Principles for LK on from a product Bennett for her first senior assistant development role across womenswear. buyer job. “LK Bennett gave me “I’m extremely happy at Hobbs,” the opportunity to work across she says. “It’s a contemporary all categories as there is only one British brand that still has British buying team. And the business manufacturing and British fabric mills was growing fast.” in its profile. I enjoy the pace and From LK Bennett, Hamilton joined variety and the opportunity to see Hobbs where she worked on both product develop from first design the main line and NW3. The acting sketch to product in store.” position soon followed to cover Hamilton started out as a buyers’ maternity leave. admin assistant at Principles after She advises newcomers to the studying at Winchester School of Art. fashion industry to “work really “It was a good grounding,” she says, hard”. She says: “Buyers’ admin jobs but also a very tough role. “It was can be very challenging, but you must competitive to get the job at Principles, keep at it. As you move up the ladder, and then it’s competitive within the it really is worth it.”
Alice Stone Founder and director, Lily and Lionel, aged 28
Alice Stone is no The brand has achieved a lot of press stranger to the fashion coverage. “We have a great PR agency accessories business – and have been getting very strong press. her parents own high You couldn’t pay for that and it’s a great street supplier Bandana. way of linking the website and the But it was an “innocent retailers.” conversation” on a buying trip to India Plans include a relaunch of the that sparked the idea for premium scarf website and a new collection in brand Lily and Lionel, named after her collaboration with the V&A museum. maternal grandparents. And Stone has a clear plan for the brand Having studied fashion design in – more international stockists, a men’s Leeds, and then worked in PR – and with accessories collection launching for her family’s background – Stone had autumn 12, and potentially a lower price everything she needed for a web launch point brand. But that, she says, “would in 2009. “I knew I didn’t want to be a be a different baby”. wholesaler, but I needed to understand how to turn the idea into a business,” she says. “We had to tackle problems such as, how people find you.” From then it’s been “organic”, she says. Wholesale wasn’t “Matches was our first proper stockist. the plan, but now Wholesale wasn’t the plan at all, but that is how it has turned out and now we we have product have product shining in some amazing shining in some retailers.” Liberty, Whistles and Harvey Nichols in the UK; Anthropology in the amazing retailers US. Impressive stuff for someone who Alice Stone, founder and director, didn’t want to wholesale. Lily and Lionel »
13 Drapers Month 00 2010 Drapers Next Generation 13 30 UNDER 30
« Thomas Tait Womenswear designer, aged 24 GETTY
Recipient of a British Collection Fashion Fashion Council NewGen Award, was identified as presentation sponsorship ‘one to watch’ by US for London Fashion Week Vogue, and became the autumn 12, Thomas Tait first designer collaborator is already making waves in the Asos young talent with his restrained, incubator scheme, Asos sculptural silhouettes. Inc. Tait’s spring 11 debut Lauded as one of the collection was shown in youngest ever Central the Wilkinson Gallery in Saint Martins MA east London, and featured Fashion graduates at just his own footwear as well 22 in 2010, Canadian-born as ready-to-wear. Tait came to London after Footwear designer completing a technical Manolo Blahnik, who womenswear course at La was on the Dorchester Salle College in Montreal. judging panel, said: In 2010, he was “Thomas has such included in the Central potential. The couture Saint Martins graduate of it, the lines – his show, won the inaugural work is exceptional £25,000 Dorchester and wonderful.”
Jake Bancroft Menswear buyer, Sarah Coggles, aged 25
Jake Bancroft is described position became available by Sarah Coggles and Bancroft took it, managing director Mark relocating to the London Bage as “clever, insightful buying office for the store and hard-working. and online businesses. He’s exceptionally well “I’ve always been thought of in the a product boy. I’m industry”. fascinated by the detail. Bancroft moved to York But I wanted to be a five years ago, working menswear buyer and with initially at footwear a business like Coggles retailer Office. Driven by you have the ability to his passion for fashion, he really do it, to change targeted Coggles with things, to see how it a calculated approach. works,” he says. Bancroft says: “I got to Describing himself know Coggles first and as a denim geek, who then Mark, and told him has grown up with I’d like to run his store.” contemporary tailoring It wasn’t long before from the likes of Oliver he was doing just that, Spencer and Maison joining the business four Martin Margiela, years ago as menswear Bancroft says his ambition manager and Paul Smith was initially to have his manager, assisting Bage own store: “[But] I’d like on buying. to progress at a buying Two years later, the level [now] and become menswear buying a buying director one day.” »
14 Drapers Next Generation Month 00 2010 Drapers 14 30 UNDER 30
« Kerrie McGowan Head of visual merchandising, Boux Avenue, aged 29
Joining the eight-store Boux Avenue business from footwear retailer Office, Kerrie She has a brilliant McGowan is getting balance between the lingerie retailer’s visual merchandising being commercially up and running from scratch. “This is a driven and being brand new challenge for me. It’s a new business, so everything is possible.” creative Following a degree in textiles and Charlotte Yates, consultant, fashion at the University of the West of Michael Page Design England, McGowan was not sure what she wanted to do. Stints as a fashion want to make sure the VM appeals to the assistant on the Mail on Sunday and in customers with displays that capture the the buying office at Asos did not inspire price points. It’s very exciting.” her. But it was at Asos that her eyes Charlotte Yates, consultant at Michael were opened to visual merchandising. Page Design, says of McGowan: “Kerrie’s Her first job in this field was as allocator recent promotion to head of VM shows at Principles, where she spent nine how capable she is. She has a brilliant months before joining Office as balance between being commercially visual merchandising co-ordinator. driven and being creative.” A year later she was the visual Describing herself as someone who merchandising manager. “cannot sit still”, McGowan also runs her She says: “I’m always pushing to get my own business, renting out vintage creativity out there and I’m directing crockery and props. She also makes bridal where we can go with Boux Avenue. I hairpieces and has built her own website.
Leon Soulsby Brand manager, Without Prejudice, Geko Fashion, aged 29
With his background Jon Saberton as a buyer between in menswear retailing, 2004 and 2007. Leon Soulsby is the Soulsby is helping to keep Without perfect ambassador I’ll be able to Prejudice at the front of consumers’ for Geko Fashion’s transfer every minds, as well as keeping the orders contemporary coming in from retailers. He is dressing tailoring brand, experience celebrities Jude Law, Harry and Jamie Without Prejudice, as he understands to my own Redknapp and Paul Weller, plus the both retailers’ and brands’ points of view. cast of TV series Hustle to promote the He joined Geko Fashion in 2007, and business brand. He also writes a monthly column has since become brand manager for in Wed magazine, answering male Without Prejudice, taking it around the one day grooming questions. UK as well as abroad. “Independent Leon Soulsby, brand With his whole family working in retail, retailers get lots of brands coming to see manager, Geko Fashion Soulsby talks about the buzz of working them. I could see that I could grow the on Christmas Eve and the adrenalin rush brand by building their trust, because when going back on Boxing Day. It’s no I can see issues from both sides of surprise then that his ambition is to open the industry.” his own store in the Essex/Hertfordshire He moved to London from the borders in about five years. West Country, where he worked for “It’s great training to see the business the then Dingles (now House of Fraser) from both sides, and I’ll be able to as menswear floor manager between transfer every experience to my own 2001 and 2004, and at Plymouth indie business one day.” »
17 Drapers Month 00 2010 Drapers Next Generation 17 30 UNDER 30
« Harry Farnsworth Sales executive, Nike, aged 30
The products Managing accounts for Nike’s work for me fashion-led ranges – the sports fashion crossover collection found in ‘cool’ – I’m a retailers such as London’s Dover consumer of Street Market and Urban Outfitters – Harry Farnsworth already has a brands and a much broader experience than many people older than him. genuine lover Farnsworth was on Arcadia’s of brands 12-month fast-track scheme in 2001 Harry Farnsworth, and was given the Dorothy Perkins sales executive, Nike and Burton store in Guildford to manage when he completed the scheme. After a year, however, he was ready for a new challenge. “I’m very much a brand guy and wanted to be in a more creative environment,” he says, so working in the then new Diesel flagship in Covent Garden was just the thing. Importantly, Diesel opened Farnsworth’s eyes to the world of wholesale and after two years with the brand he moved to Sixty Group, working on Energie and Sixty Men in the UK. “It was a good, fun atmosphere and we got to work on product development,” he says. Quiksilver UK and VF Corp’s Wrangler followed before Farnsworth joined Nike. “It was wholesale that resonated with me and represented my ideal,” he says. “The products work for me – I’m a consumer of brands and a genuine Joanne Stoker lover of brands. And now I’m combining my love of brands with my major Footwear designer, aged 28 interest in sport. It keeps life exciting.” London-based footwear from London College of would love to walk down designer Joanne Stoker Fashion’s Cordwainers in the street and see people has just one thing in 2009, Stoker has won the wearing my shoes. It mind: “To create beautiful First Into Fashion Award makes me happy when and conceptual shoes, headed by Jimmy Choo people buy my shoes and stepping out to astound and fashion editor at large email me with thanks, and delight.” Melanie Rickey, and the especially when it’s for Stoker came to Footwear Friends Award, their wedding,” she says. footwear after stints in sponsored by the British So how did she go textiles – her first degree Footwear Association, as about launching her own was in textile design – well as being a finalist in brand? “You really have to and model making, and the ITS International be passionate about what you can see how the two Competition in Italy. She you want to do and be led to footwear. She was mentored at Jimmy prepared to work hard. says: “I love constructing Choo before establishing Sometimes you might shoes, watching all the her own label in 2010, feel like you’re not getting components come and is now stocked in anywhere, then one together.” Selfridges. morning you wake up An award-winning MA Stoker dreams of being and it all starts to come graduate in footwear a household name. “I together.” »
18 Drapers Next Generation January 2012 Drapers 18 30 UNDER 30
« Beth Coburn Area manager, house brand fashion accessories, House of Fraser, aged 29
Beth Coburn recently house brands, Coburn says. It’s a role that became area manager is also raising her profile in the business. for own-brand “I know what it’s like to get a head accessories in House office visit. But I hope I can talk easily of Fraser’s top 21 stores. about what will make a difference to She began working sales. I like people, I like working with part-time in the retailer’s MetroCentre customers, and I treat people store while at university in Leeds and with respect.” joined the management training Peter Gross, House of Fraser’s scheme after graduating. Since executive director, retail operations east, then Coburn has worked for key says: “Beth is committed to her personal House of Fraser stores, gaining broad development, which has seen her experience of the business. progress her management career in “The product area manager role stores such as the MetroCentre, Glasgow, is a completely different challenge for Birmingham and Leeds. Having me as I’m used to managing within one benchmarked for a store manager role store,” she says. The role is an important last year, she has now moved into a new one – accessories are the second most house brand area manager role. Her important category for Christmas, and stores are already seeing the benefit of House of Fraser is driving sales from its her support and guidance.”
Brad Brook UK key account manager, Tommy Hilfiger Denim, aged 25
Brad Brook joined “I love the product, I love the people, I Tommy Hilfiger after love travelling to trade shows, seeing the graduating with a fresh faces, getting into relationships with degree in business retailers. I enjoy everything about it,” he and marketing from says. And he’s keen on how much influence Stirling University, he has at Tommy Hilfiger Denim. “We get and has quickly moved through the ranks an input on behalf of the UK and I really from regional sales rep roles to take enjoy that – especially when the product on UK-wide key account management starts to sell, that’s a real big part of it.” in 2010. He says Tommy Hilfiger UK managing He works with UK retailers including director David Pyne is a great mentor. John Lewis, House of Fraser, USC, “I’ve been really lucky to have great Fenwick and Asos as well as influential people around me. They’ve believed in me indies such as Javelin in Bury St Edmunds and influenced other people, too.” and Badger in Brighton. Garry Finnegan, sales director at With a good understanding of retail – consultancy Hga Group, says: “Brad is a his father previously owned Redditch driven, sales-focused individual who truly indie Jazz, which Brook worked in while understands his industry. He acts as a studying – he says he “never saw myself brand guardian at all times and ensures doing anything else” other than joining his customers receive a first-class service the fashion industry. from the showroom to their shopfloors.”
Brad is a driven, sales-focused individual who truly understands his industry Garry Finnegan, sales director, Hga Group »
21 Drapers Month 00 2010 Drapers Next Generation 21 30 UNDER 30
« JW Anderson Designer, aged 27
Recently awarded NewGen sponsorship for both his men’s and women’s autumn 12 London Fashion Week catwalk shows, Jonathan William Anderson, known as JW Anderson, is making his mark with androgynous, clean-cut fashion, reinterpreted in unexpected fabrics. Anderson is unusual in finding critical acclaim – and sponsor support – for both collections so early in his career. And there is also his creative director role at heritage menswear brand Sunspel. A menswear graduate of the London College of Fashion, Anderson quickly established himself as a menswear designer in London after showing off- schedule during London Fashion Week in September 2008. He was selected for the MAN showcase for the following two seasons, and womenswear followed in autumn 10. His own collections are stocked in the UK and overseas in influential retailers such as Harrods, Liberty, Oki-ni in the UK, Colette in Paris, Opening Simone Rocha Ceremony and Scanlan & Designer, aged 25 Theodore in the US. Of his work for Sunspel, the First-time NewGen While the connection is doubtlessly brand’s chief executive, Nicholas recipient for her opening doors commercially – and Brooke, says: “Jonathan has brought autumn 12 women’s she is already stocked in prestigious a really fresh, contemporary catwalk, Dublin-born international stores such as Dover Street feel to [Sunspel]. He has tremendous Simone Rocha Market, IT in Hong Kong, Opening potential as a designer due to his graduated with a BA Ceremony in the US and Colette in Paris talent, youth and enthusiasm.” in Fashion from the – Rocha was noticed for the creativity National College of Art and Design in and quality of her work while studying. Dublin in 2008, and with a Fashion MA Topshop selected her as one of three from Central Saint Martins in London in Central Saint Martins MA graduates to 2010. She debuted via the Fashion East have one-off designs stocked in the He has tremendous initiative at London Fashion Week Oxford Circus flagship. She has gone on potential as a where she showed her spring 11 and to create a capsule collection for Topshop. subsequent autumn 11 collections. She She was also one of Selfridges’ ‘Bright designer due to held her first solo show for spring 12. Young Things’ of 2011, with an Oxford his talent, youth Her familiar name is no coincidence; Street window devoted to her spring 11 Rocha is the daughter of Irish designer collection in January last year. Colette and enthusiasm John Rocha – but her style is very also displayed Rocha’s autumn 11 Nicholas Brooke, chief executive, different. She describes it as “modern collection in its window during last Sunspel and strong, yet romantic”. season’s couture week in Paris. »
22 Drapers Next Generation Month 00 2010 Drapers 22 30 UNDER 30
« Treve Jackson Senior video editor, marketing, Asos, aged 26
with the production organically, but I really team, working mostly enjoy anything visual – on catwalk coverage. He especially making an increasingly took on work idea work and look for the promotional team cool. When I joined, – to a point where he I thought fashion moved to the marketing would be interesting department last year, because it is such a where he was promoted visual medium.” Newly promoted to senior to his current role. He also finds video editor in the His role involves freedom in working marketing department at translating the ideas and with fashion. “There online retailer Asos, Treve concepts of the marketing doesn’t always have to Jackson describes his team into video. He be a reason for doing introduction to fashion as works with the head of art, something in a particular accidental. He studied producers, plus freelance way – other than that film production at photographers and stylists. it is interesting.” Staffordshire University, Jackson appreciates Appreciating the graduating in 2007, when the creative possibilities “infinite scope” of his he worked briefly for that product brings to role, Jackson sees himself a now-defunct internet his role of creating “learning and growing” start-up and with online moving images at Asos. with Asos. “Online video publisher CNet. He says: “The shift from is evolving, and there is no Jackson joined Asos in production to creative standard – you can make 2008 as a video editor work at Asos happened it whatever you want to.”
James Williamson Menswear designer, outerwear, River Island, aged 27
“No job in fashion is nine to five, and you At Republic in Leeds, Williamson was genuinely do get out of your role what a multi-product designer. “I was covering you put into it. I think it’s possibly the a whole brand. It was enjoyable and most rewarding industry you could work challenging, as I had to learn a lot of in as long as you put in the effort and have disciplines while also managing the the determination to prove yourself.” different lead times in each product area. Wise words from James Williamson, But working across a whole brand, who is already being talked of as a developing a trend concept, designing designer who will go far. and building a range right down to the He joined River Island as men’s branding touches, is an amazing job.” outerwear designer in summer 2011 Now at River Island, he says he is from Republic, following stints with gaining more experience in a nurturing suppliers Visage in Manchester and atmosphere. “The constant reward of Christy Group in Barnsley. He turned seeing your product in store is a real to fashion after initially starting a degree motivation to better yourself each season. in art, design and photography, swapping I love seeing my designs made into to a BA(Hons) in fashion and clothing at garments, and it’s even better when you Leeds College of Art and Design. see members of the public wearing them.”
The constant reward of seeing your product in store is a real motivation to better yourself James Williamson, menswear designer, outerwear, River Island »
25 Drapers Month 00 2010 Drapers Next Generation 25 30 UNDER 30
« Rachel Stechler Retail allocator, Radley & Co, aged 20
With work experience frustrating because took on the extra at Fenwick, Vintage I craved the practical responsibility. “It was Academe, Tesco, Cath opportunities that a moment to prove my Kidston and Sports Direct would set me apart worth and I enjoyed rising under her belt, Stechler from my peers.” to the challenge,” she says. started a degree in retail Before her first year at Stechler describes management at London university was over, herself as a passionate, College of Fashion in Stechler started looking ambitious person – she October 2010. But after a for non-graduate roles in already has her mind set year she wanted to get her fashion retail and was on becoming a head of Rachel Stechler, the hands dirty. snapped up by Radley & merchandising – and off-price allocator at “It has always been my Co. She made her mark wants to go far at accessories brand Radley ambition to work in quickly – a team player, Radley & Co. & Co, is the youngest fashion retail,” she says. working hard, running “I love that success can member of the 30 under “By the time I was 18, reports to maximise be measured concretely 30 but has already been I’d already gained stock potential. and that growth is easily earmarked as a high-flyer. considerable insight, Working closely with quantifiable,” she says. Fashion Personnel undertaking short-term the merchandisers, “The clear outcome of managing director roles in merchandising, Stechler excelled in the reaching sales targets Shelley Pinto says she is buying and licensing. role and when the lead drives me to work harder “a real rising star”. I found academic study merchandiser left she every week.”
David Hobson Amy Louise Keating Ecommerce director, Late Night Chameleon Cafe, aged 28 Buyer, Boudoir Boutique, aged 22
“The emergence of With responsibility for mobile and social PR as well as buying at ecommerce will change Boudoir Boutique, the face of retail over the Amy Louise Keating has next few years, so it’s an a lot on her plate what interesting place to be,” with the Liverpool indie says David Hobson, also building a transactional website and ecommerce director creating its own brand. and one of the founding Although Boudoir Boutique is partners of critically owned by her mother, Louise Kavanagh, acclaimed London Keating is nonetheless driven to succeed. concept store Late Night She cut her teeth at Liverpool indie Chameleon Cafe Drome, where she worked in (LN-CC). online fashion at place. All the plaudits PR as well as assisting on buying trips. Located in Dalston, designer menswear site have fallen because we After Drome, she moved to New Look LN-CC is a 6,000 sq ft Oki-ni, before he joined are uncompromising.” as a personal stylist and visual space set out as seven LN-CC in March 2010. Hobson believes merchandiser. “It was great experience different concept rooms – “There are no ecommerce is still in its working for such a big company,” its website also reflects compromises in anything pioneer stage. “There are she says. the mood of the store. that we do at LN-CC, no preconceptions of For Keating, the essence Apart from established whether that is in the how online should be of the job is the product international and store, the website or in and LN-CC is ambitious,” and the customers. “I’m emerging designerwear the product,” he says. he says. “We have an very passionate about for men and women, “Everything we do is the aggressive growth researching the market it also offers music and best that it can possibly strategy and are set and sourcing things from books. Like several of the be. And as long as the to be at the forefront all over the world that seven founders – five of quality of the product is of traditional retailing make our store unique. whom are under 30 – right then everything and of ecommerce and Also creating our own Hobson cut his teeth in else should really fall into online retail.” brand is so exciting.”
26 Drapers Next Generation Month 00 2010 Drapers 26 INSPIRATION
Me and my mentor Whether you’re a senior director or a rising star, there will have been someone along the way who you will never forget as a mentor. Three of fashion’s biggest names reveal theirs
Words Suzanne Bearne
KATE BOSTOCK Executive director of general merchandise at Marks & Spencer, Bostock looks to former Asda chief executive Andy Bond as her mentor
“I’m very lucky to have been mentored and inspired by a number of people in my career. David Jones [former chief ANDY BOND executive of Next] gave me my first direc- Chairman of young torship at Next and was an invaluable fashion chain guiding hand through my early career. Republic and Sir Stuart Rose [former Marks & Spencer cycling and sports chief executive]… what Stuart doesn’t etailer Wiggle, and know about the high street isn’t worth former Asda chief knowing. However, it was Andy Bond executive who gave me the confidence to succeed Bond joined Asda as and instilled in me a belief that is still marketing manager in with me today. 1994 and quickly “Andy and I worked together at Asda Belief is all: climbed up the ranks Bostock for three years from 2001 when he was to become marketing advocates hard managing director of George at Asda director, then work for success and I was design director for George, and managing director of at the time he believed in me more than George at Asda and I believed in myself. That really helped very exciting time to be there “He taught me how important finally chief executive push me on in my career. He’s brilliant and it was Andy’s inspiration being a mentor is in business. in 2005. at spotting someone’s strengths and that drove us forward to Because of the inspiration Andy The once firm developing them. He certainly did that achieve such big numbers. and others have given me, I favourite to become with me and that helped me develop “As a strategist and now lecture at fashion M&S chief executive as a professional. visionary, Andy was second universities and colleges, surprised the City in “Andy told me: ‘If you believe in your- to none. When something mentor executives here at April 2010 when he self and work hard, you can realise your looked impossible, he chal- M&S and advise and stood down to become dreams.’ He was right and it’s a piece of lenged it and we found a way coach external contacts. I part-time chairman of advice I use time and time again when to succeed and make it work. work closely with Claire Watt- the supermarket. A few speaking with young professionals. Smith, founder of boutique months later he “In my early days at George it was fashion house BoBelle London. combined his love of Andy’s vision and backing that led She doesn’t need my advice when it cycling with his passion me to put on a fashion show – Walmart’s If you have the comes to fashion, but back-end opera- for business when he first ever – to more than 20,000 Walmart tional work like logistics and banking became chair of employees at a Dallas sales conference. It belief and are don’t always come naturally to people Wiggle.co.uk in August was a huge success and it kick-started prepared to work in our industry. 2010. Bond has George’s global push. “I support women who are looking continued to invest his “Working with Andy taught me hard, women can to make it to the top. If you have the time and money into retailing on a global scale. We took succeed in the belief and are prepared to work hard, retail by becoming George from a few hundred UK stores to women can make it to and succeed chairman of Republic. more than 4,000 internationally. It was a boardroom in the boardroom.” »
Drapers Next Generation 29 INSPIRATION
« CHRISTOPHER KANE Designer Kane studied at Central Saint Martins (CSM) before launching his eponymous fashion label and taking the trophy for New Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards in 2007. He says CSM’s influential fashion MA course director, Louise Wilson, is his mentor
“When I first created one of those lace dresses [for his MA Graduate collection] I was in my flat in Dalston thinking ‘Oh my God, not everyone is going to like this and people are going to think it is cheap and nasty’. Everyone on the course always thinks they are a conceptual artist and I’m so anti that. I took it into college and Louise loved it. She taught me to just believe in myself and be confident in what you do. “Louise said that there’s always better people who are going to get that job and bigger and better designers out there so you need to work your guts out. “It’s such a competitive industry and you need your hands on deck all the time and that’s what she was brutally honest about. She taught me to work 10 times harder so I can always be the best I can be. Hard work paid “She also told me to be real and off: Kane has grounded. That’s one thing about won an award fashion: there’s so many characters with for New Designer airs and graces but Louise is honest and of the Year real. Hopefully – actually I will – always be like that. “I see Louise a lot. She helped with my [spring 12] preview. I can PROFESSOR MA Fashion course designer stripes under lecturer on the CSM trust Louise as she always gives LOUISE WILSON director, Central Wilson include Alexander MA fashion course, then her honest opinion. Actually, Louise Saint Martins College McQueen, Giles Deacon, director. In 1997, she is blatantly honest, she knows a lot Scanning the list of British Jonathan Saunders as joined Donna Karan as about the industry. There have catwalk designers there’s well as Christopher Kane. design director, taking a been moments when I’ve needed an overwhelming number Wilson learned her own one-year sabbatical from advice and she’s always given me that have been taught fashion craft as a student CSM, and continued in sound advice. under Wilson, perhaps on the MA fashion the role as a consultant “People think Louise is always really the world’s most well- course, graduating with a until 2001. In 1999, serious but she’s really funny as well. known fashion course distinction from the she was awarded a We’ve got common taste in good leader. She may have a much-revered Central professorship at the and bad TV; we watch anything and fearsome reputation but Saint Martins (CSM). University of the Arts everything. Wilson has helped build What followed was a London and almost a “Absolutely everyone has her on a a remarkable set of career in fashion design, decade later, in 2008, huge pedestal but she hates it. alumni since running including designing for she was appointed an “She sees teaching as her role. She’s the course. denim brands such as OBE for her services to a genius. I think she’s one of a kind. Former students that Guess Jeans before the fashion industry and You know what? I don’t think there’s have earned their becoming associate education. a word to describe Louise Wilson.” »
Drapers Next Generation 31 INSPIRATION
« MIKE GORING Retail director of Debenhams, and former BHS managing director Described by one former colleague as the “steady hand at Arcadia” and as “very calm, keeps a cool head, and is well liked within the business”, Goring has gone from strength to strength in his long career operating some of the UK’s biggest clothing businesses. He has held a variety of senior roles within Direct vision: Arcadia and the former Burton Group, Mazza’s ranging from group retail director at integrity has Arcadia to managing director of BHS in ensured 2009. He jumped ship this January to Hobbs take up the retail director role at remains at Debenhams. fashion’s Aside from a great track record in sharp end retail, Goring is so well regarded in the business as a mentor that in September he scored an industry- wide award recognising him for ALANA MAZZA “I remember when I first had to nurturing women in retail. Goring Hobbs’ retail director says she is still represent the brand at trade meetings, was presented with a Lifetime influenced today by the leadership of her which Mike chaired on Monday morn- Achievement Award from the former Arcadia colleague, Mike Goring, ings, with all the brand’s retail directors Specsavers Everywoman in Retail who this month became retail director in attendance. It was quite terrifying Awards after many senior retail of Debenhams as Mike would select at random executives commended him. each brand for you to go through the “I’m a little embarrassed about the “As retail director at Hobbs, there are previous week’s trading. However, he whole thing [the awards],” he says. many times when I think of Mike’s always made me feel at ease and added “I’ve come across good people who style of leadership, which gives people a bit of humour to it, but at the same just needed that help and support the opportunity to shine, without time it was challenging. and they just took advantage of that; stifling the creativity. He was always “Mike’s a great, natural retailer Alana was one of them. encouraging the team at Arcadia to and always put things in the simplest “When I first met her she was a Mike’s a stretch and grow and was coaching format. He used diagrams a lot to person with so much passion and along the way. explain and show theory. Many of the energy. She was like a cable with no great, natural “I first met Mike when he was retail diagrams were on leadership such as plug on the end. My role was to give retailer and director at Topshop and I was with the getting the best out of people. her work and structure to channel Burton Group as an area manager “When I was an Arcadia Area that energy. always put for Principles in 1986. Straight away Manager of the Year contender, and six “I told her how she should set her things in the he was very charismatic and had a months pregnant, I had to do a presen- own goals and standards, not to great presence. tation to the board, which included waste energy turning right and left simplest “But it was when I began working Mike. He was questioning but motiva- and that as a consequence that format in retail operations that Mike really tional in response and he applauded would mean her vision would stay inspired me. He was always the the creativity of the presentation. intact, and she got that. Her integrity utmost professional, very focused and “Many of my friends are now level is of the highest standard. extremely personable. He’s extremely successful in their careers, most of them Looking at her now I can see she has positive about what can be achieved, are in retail and Mike has probably great empathy with people and she and always encouraged me to think on influenced all of them in their career can really engage with them.” a bigger scale. at some point.”
32 Drapers Next Generation CAREER CHOICES
On the road to success Rising tuition fees and fewer jobs mean choosing the right access route is crucial if you want to make it in the fashion industry
Words Åse Anderson Illustration Noma Bar
ith fees set to soar to £9,000 Retail experience is also a must, Island and Warehouse. Along with work among many colleges and whether this is working on the shopfloor placements, these projects help students universities this year, it’s no at weekends or head office placements as gain industry experience and build up W wonder young people are part of a university degree. their portfolios. questioning whether there are more cost- For budding designers, who need to “The strong reputation of UK fashion effective ways to land their dream job. build up a portfolio, apprenticeships can designers clearly helps encourage The high fees are likely to deter one in be a viable option, although they have to talented students to continue with their 10 potential students, according to a BBC be prepared to work for free. studies,” says Swain. survey, while the number of 16 to 24-year- Della Swain, course leader for BA Hons However, while graduates tend to olds out of work in the UK has risen to Fashion Design at De Montfort Univer- command better starting salaries than nearly one million this year. sity, says a university course helps students those without degrees, a university educa- Success Appointments operations develop a range of skills from illustration tion is not an essential requirement for a director Kate Barron says: “Regardless of and design to pattern cutting and career in fashion retail. the state of the economy, I think the pres- garment manufacturing. Students also Karen Dennison, principal of the sures on candidates wanting to get into develop organisational and time manage- Fashion Retail Academy (FRA), says what the fashion industry will stay the same. ment skills, and the ability to multi-task. the industry really wants is “job-ready There are always going to be more people people”. The FRA offers a range of courses competing over a small number of highly Getting on the ladder to prepare students to enter the work- sought-after jobs.” De Montfort works with organisations force or go on to higher education. While She adds that a fashion or business such as the British Fashion Council, and the number of applications for the FRA degree will always stand candidates “in Graduate Fashion Week where students has risen this year, Dennison says it is too good stead” and is especially important have the opportunity to design for compe- early to tell if this is as a result of the rise in for those looking to get into buying or titions run by the likes of Burberry, River higher education fees. merchandising, where analytical skills and a head for numbers are essential. Bloom Retail senior consultant Lucy Julia Yates careers consultant, University of the Arts Killian says candidates interested in buying and design have usually known People make it into the suit you better. Do you to show them something from a young age that this is their dream fashion industry through a enjoy the freedom of special, whether that is career and mapped out their education variety of different routes, being able to make amazing dedication, accordingly. She says: “Often, those that but there are two well mistakes in a classroom, raw talent or superb are looking for their first buyers admin trodden paths. You can or does it make better people skills. assistant post, have a buying degree and work your way up from sense to you when you But above and beyond internships on their CV before they even the bottom, finding an can see it all in the real all that, it’s about your get to interview stage, indicating that the apprenticeship straight world? Most people attitude. You need to be buying and design arenas at entry level after leaving school, or you entering the fashion world brimming with self- are super-competitive.” can continue in education at the moment are confidence but aware that Merchandising, however, tends to to gain a degree and then educated to degree level, you have a lot to learn, attract graduates from a wider range of find a job after graduation. so if you want to go focused but flexible, disciplines, including law, geography and Have a think about straight in from school, enthusiastic and history, who have perhaps not considered which route is going to you are likely to have extremely passionate. a career in retail before leaving university.
34 Drapers Next Generation CAREER CHOICES
“I think the view that you need a degree is outdated. We work with 90 companies on the high street and we have students who have been at the FRA for one year and then go into entry-level merchandiser’s and buyer’s admin assistant roles. We teach the skills required for those roles and the students are well versed in what the job is about.”
Experience vs education Following the Government’s announce- ment last year that it will help fund an additional 100,000 apprenticeships, the FRA is adding apprenticeship schemes to its portfolio and will work with fashion retailers to deliver the right ones for their needs. Dennison said it is likely that the FRA-run apprenticeship schemes will include higher-level skills such as buying and merchandising. Debenhams learning and development manager Sophie Hosier says the most important thing is for young people to gain as much experience as possible: “NVQs and apprenticeships are becoming a more accepted route into the industry as these offer a great hands-on experience, not just an academic understanding.” Similarly, Sophie Adams, head of grad- uate recruitment at John Lewis, says when recruiting for entry-level positions, she is “far more interested in an appli- cant’s work experience and interests [than in their degree], as that is what makes someone stand out.” While John Lewis doesn’t offer any head office apprenticeships, it is trialling an in-store apprenticeship scheme. Aimed mainly at those who want to become department and store managers, the scheme was launched internally last year, with a view to opening it up to external applicants this year. John Lewis’s merchandising graduate scheme, which was launched in September 2010, attracted about 900 applicants for three places. Last year, the figure rose to 1,300. John Lewis is currently recruiting for this year’s intake. It may look glamorous, but building a career in fashion requires both passion and hard work, while a thick skin and sharp elbows may also come in handy. Barron says: “People don’t tend to fall into fashion. Those who get the most sought-after roles have got a real single- minded determination and CVs that really stand out.” l
Drapers Next Generation 35 THE BIG INTERVIEW
Sir Philip Green Few within the fashion sector have been as outspoken or active on the issue of promoting new talent as Arcadia Group’s boss
Words Caroline Nodder
s one of the trade’s highest- changes in shopping habits for decades. tion online worldwide, so tapping into profile figures, with the ear of New recruits can’t afford to stand still. this mindset will help shape the changing government and a circle of He says: “Fashion retail has become face of fashion retail – what retailers have A influential contacts, Sir Philip more and more about entertainment done before is not going to be good Green uses this sway not only to home- rather than merely shopping for clothes enough tomorrow,” says Green. grow talent within his own business but and accessories, so having fresh and rele- “The challenge is to create retailers of also to win funding and cross-sector vant newness within product is more the future who understand all areas of support for the Fashion Retail Academy, important than ever. the business, so that whatever area they which trains the trade’s stars of the future. “There has to be excitement within want to specialise in, be it buying and He masterminded the launch of the store environments, and a compelling merchandising, marketing, store design Academy in 2006 and it now trains more reason to visit – I believe our flagship or on the shopfloor, they have the apti- than 720 students every year in practical Topshop/Topman store at Oxford Circus is tude and understanding of how a fashion disciplines including buying, mechan- a world class example of this philosophy.” retailer works.” dising and visual merchandising. One challenge is reaching potential All this has stemmed from Green’s Web savvy recruits early enough to sell them the own 35-year experience in the trade And alongside this, the growth of online idea of a career in fashion retail. and a belief that it’s not only the best means new recruits need to be as Green says: “As the second largest product but the best people that make comfortable in the world of internet private employment sector, it is key that a business great. shopping as they are in store. future generations are encouraged into He tells Drapers: “It’s very important to “Bricks and clicks is my ideal business the retail industry, and that schools, invest in our people – encouraging them model,” says Green. “In addition to colleges, universities and academies are to fulfil their potential and be the best purchasing online, so many people supported by both the public and private they can be. What’s good for them is good now do their research on fashion sector to develop this talent.” for creating a dynamic business environ- retailers’ sites. Arcadia delivers to more And putting his money where his ment that people want to develop their than 110 countries worldwide via our mouth is, through Arcadia Green has also careers in.” brands’ websites, and further interna- developed a network of contacts in the So what skills does he look for in a tional expansion in both stores and sphere of education to influence the rising star? “An instinct and a good eye via the internet is key to the development nature of the training and education and feel for the product is a key skill for of our business.” students are receiving. those involved in design and buying,” says So it’s not just about imparting knowl- For more than eight years, Arcadia has Green, adding that attitude is vital too. edge but about learning from the new had a business link with 50 secondary “Across all areas of retail, you need generation as well? “For young people schools, bridging the gap between curric- to have a passion for what you do, and coming into the industry, they are more ulum and the world of work. This link feel that you can implement any ideas savvy and have instant access to informa- provides practical support in areas such and creativity that you have. You have as CV workshops, fashion shows and pres- to wake up every morning loving entations, and gives industry advice to what you do, and believing you can students on things such as marketing, make a difference.” design and finance. This relationship with “I like the old-fashioned way of talking schools also helps to identify at a young to people; it’s relationships with people You have to wake up age those students who have a desire to at the end of the day that help every morning loving work within the business sector, and businesses succeed. ” several of the schools now run Entrepre- He may like the “old-fashioned” paths what you do, and neurs Societies and Business units. of communication, but the Arcadia boss believing you can Green adds: “We have also developed has been at the forefront of a rapidly close relationships with 15 key universi- changing retail landscape and dramatic make a difference ties and we attend careers fairs, seminars
36 Drapers Next Generation THE BIG INTERVIEW
and presentations, and offer support with running skill sessions for the students. We also run speed interview sessions at selected universities to help us identify talent early.”
The next big thing Arcadia recruits more than 300 graduates every year in areas such as buying, merchandising, HR, retail, finance, ecom- merce and international customer care. Last year, more than 20,000 applications were received for these roles. Since the launch of the Fashion Retail Academy in 2006, it has gained cross- industry support from the likes of Marks & Spencer, Tesco, Next and Home Retail Group and has become a trailblazer for the National Skills Academies network across other industries. More than 65% of the students who left the Fashion Retail Academy last summer went on to jobs within the fashion retail industry, with 30% going on to further education. And Green has plans to build on this success with a second Academy in the north of England, as well as discussing options to extend its remit into manufacturing. “We’re exploring the opportunity of possibly opening an Academy in the North – it’s work in progress,” he tells Drapers. “We’re also talking to industry partners and the Government about developing technical skills and manufac- turing facilities in the UK.” With Topshop among Arcadia’s most successful retail fascias, Green is also keen to promote design talent and for 10 years now, the young fashion chain has been the headline sponsor of the NewGen initiative run by the British Fashion Council at London Fashion Week to support emerging British design talent. Green says: “We will use this anniver- sary as a platform to announce some great new initiatives for continuing to develop, mentor and support young British designers.” And his final word? “I’ve been in the industry for more than 35 years, and it’s of great importance to me that both myself personally, and Arcadia as a group, remain at the fore- Sir Philip Green front of innovation and we actively (middle, left) at the engage in bringing on the huge talent and annual Fashion Retail energy that is out there across so many Academy Awards 2011 different facets of fashion retail.” l
Drapers Next Generation 37 COMPETITION
Next Generation Academy If you want to make your mark in fashion, or want expert career advice, enter our exclusive competition
f you’re looking to make a name for Next Generation yourself in the fabulous fashion industry, then enter Drapers’ Next Academy will IGeneration Academy competition. feature exclusive For the third year in a row, Drapers is looking for the industry’s most content from passionate and career-driven individuals to enter our competition and win leading names a place at our exclusive event at Altitude in fashion in Westminster, London, on March 22. Next Generation Academy will The Next Generation Academy will feature exclusive content from leading provide an invaluable networking names in fashion, including interviews opportunity and you will also hear from and panel discussions. Among the some of the inspirational individuals IN ASSOCIATION WITH stellar line-up in the previous two who made our 30 under 30 list (p3). years were Pentland Group chief This competition is open to anyone in executive Andy Rubin, London their first, second or third jobs with Fashion Week designer Henry Holland, commercial experience of working in PARTNERS Reiss brand director Andy Rogers, the fashion sector, be it in retail, at a fashion commentator Colin McDowell brand or supplier in any position from and Topman design director design to buying, merchandising and Gordon Richardson. retail operations. The speakers this year, who will We are looking for candidates who are be announced in due course, will ambitious, driven and enthused by reveal their tips on how to progress your fashion. If you fit this description and are career and maximise opportunities in looking to make a name for yourself in the current climate. They will fashion, then enter this competition also answer your individual questions. now. Places are limited.
HOW TO ENTER Either fill in the form below and post to Caroline Nodder, Editor-in-Chief, Drapers, Greater London House, Hampstead Road, NW1 7EJ, or go to www.drapersonline.com/people/next-generation where you can complete your entry online
Next Generation Academy competition Name Please state in no more than 10 words why you deserve to be a part of the Drapers Next Generation Job Title Academy on March 22. Company
(Please tick box) I confirm I am able to attend the Drapers Next Generation Academy from 8.30am to 5.30pm on March 22 2012 For full terms and conditions please go to www.drapersonline.com/people/next-generation
Drapers Next Generation 39 CAREER ADVICE
EXCEL AT INTERVIEW First impressions count, so doing your research before an interview is paramount. Make sure you give some thought to everything, from Tooled up your outfit to key questions to ask at the end
Make sure you secure that dream job by arming “Brands love it when you brands to show they have yourself with both traditional and modern means have read the latest article their own style, says about them in Drapers or Katherine Mather, senior Words Manfreda Cavazza Illustration Robert Samuel Hanson seen them in Vogue that consultant at Success month,” says Nicola Appointments. Steadman, senior Keep excessive hand consultant at Bloom Retail. movements to a minimum, Visit the business don’t lean forward too MAKE THE MOST OF TWITTER before an interview if it’s a much and maintain eye Twitter has become such as #UKjobs, Faye Mclean says: “We store, or if it’s a brand go contact. people’s tool of choice #fashion and #London. use our careers feed to to see a collection in a Knowing what questions when searching for Arcadia group communicate directly store or online. to ask at the end can be a their ideal job resourcing manager with students about Never be negative about stumbling block. Mather Rachael Harvey adds: opportunities at Asos. It previous employers. “It is a suggests asking how the Twitter is a great source “Don't be afraid to directly helps people understand small world and everyone interviewers got to where of information for ask a company on Twitter what we are about.” knows everyone else,” says they are now. Three career advice and job if it has any opportunities If you are active on Steadman. separate recruiters said opportunities. Candidates for you – they should point Twitter, make sure your Some companies, such preparing a SWOT should search and follow you in the right direction.” tweets are current and as White Stuff, love it when (strengths, weaknesses, companies they would like Some companies, such relevant to the job you candidates arrive dressed opportunities and threats) to work for, using hashtag as Asos, have dedicated are going for, especially if head to toe in its products. analysis of the business is streams connected with HR Twitter feeds. Asos the role involves using Whereas Topshop prefers it worthwhile to present at the jobs, roles or locations, recruitment manager social media. if people mix up different end of the interview.
CEO
40 Drapers Next Generation CEO
CAREER ADVICE
WRITE THE PERFECT CV Create a CV that will Sentences should ensure you stand be short and concise. out from the crowd The layout should be clear and eye-catching. Your CV must be Make sure key accurately written. “We see achievements are visible hundreds of CVs every day and always state why and it is incredible how you left your last job. many spelling and Talisman International grammatical errors there managing director Vicki are,” says Katherine Morisetti says you could Mather, senior consultant use colour, have a at Success Appointments. watermark in the “There’s no excuse for background or do mistakes. You simply won’t something a “little off the get an interview.” wall” to attract attention.
USE LINKEDIN NETWORK Recruiters across the board say Networking will ensure Mary Anderson-Ford, to rub shoulders with this online networking tool is that your professional director of Bloom Retail, senior people. essential at all stages of your life is successful says: “The art of Success AppointmentsCEO career. It is the easiest way to networking is a skill, managing director Stephen stay in touch with your business The adage ‘it’s not which can carry you Selby agrees: “Make sure contacts and hear about job what you know but who through in life as well as you are seen to be doing a opportunities you know’ might be your career.” She advises very good job.” a cliché, however, it can people to attend seminars Good networking Even being new to the industry is no excuse be true in the world and events where there extends beyond the for not having a profile on LinkedIn, says of fashion. will be the opportunity day-to-day job, adds Selby. Fashion and Retail Personnel managing director Shelly Pinto. Almost anyone you meet could be useful later on in life. “I have met people in the gym, on the beach, while USE BLOGS walking the dog,” she says. Pinto advises Showcase your sense of style and industry younger people to add to their page knowledge by setting up your own blog contacts they have made while doing work experience or at college. It is not uncommon to see However, Helen Taylor, associate fashion bloggers sitting in director at Fashion and Retail the front row of catwalk Personnel, warns: “Keep it shows, so don’t professional. This is not Facebook.” underestimate the She advises to only connect with importance of blogs as a people you know. Start source of industry news. small and slowly build Well-known sites include up your network. The Business of Fashion Consider adding a and Style Bubble. It is more detailed worth considering setting of style and your description of your role or up your own blog, knowledge of aspirations in the ‘job title’ especially if you work in the the latest trends. section of your profile. creative sector. Arcadia But she warns: “Make Ask colleagues or college group resourcing manager sure it is kept updated. tutors to write a short Rachael Harvey says many There is nothing worse recommendation of your buyers and designers have than saying you have a strengths and abilities. Only add their own sites. blog when nothing has a link to your Twitter account if your Blogs are a great way of been added to it in the tweets are work or industry-related. demonstrating your sense past two months.”
Drapers Next Generation 41
CEO RETAIL MANAGEMENT
Back to the shopfloor She may helm Oasis, but Liz Evans insists that a day in store is still the best source of knowledge
Words Ana Santi
hen I started out, we didn’t have online,” says Oasis’s Liz Evans, as she tweaks an Technology is giving W almost-perfect rail at the retailer’s Argyll Street store in London. us the opportunity “Technology is giving us the opportunity to enhance the shopping experience. The to enhance the fundamentals of retail haven’t changed, shopping experience but the pace at which people want things Liz Evans, managing director, Oasis has changed. Shopping isn’t just a func- tional experience anymore; stores are about creating an experience.” Saturday,” she says, before picking up Despite her reign as managing one of the many iPads dotted across the director of the womenswear chain, store and expertly demonstrating how Evans doesn’t lock herself away in an shoppers can browse the entire Oasis ivory tower. Today, she has gone back to collection. “You used to be entertained the shopfloor forDrapers , but you can by magazines near the changing rooms, tell she spends a lot of time there now it’s iPads.” already – two days a week in fact, either But Evans admits that Oasis’s focus on in an Oasis store or a competitor’s. technology had its teething problems. With her youthful looks, she could “We were getting so excited about easily be mistaken for a shop assistant. online, but the store managers saw it as “That falls really nicely when you put competition because it was taking sales it on,” she advises a customer, who is On the frontline: Liz Evans says the shopfloor still gives her a buzz from their stores,” she explains. holding up a dress. “So we brought them together. Now we can attribute an online sale to The customer comes first CV a particular store. We were asking Evans began her retail career at Marks & [store managers] to embrace Spencer, an experience that taught her to 2010 Managing multichannel but we didn’t give them put the customer first. “When I left director, Oasis the tools to do so.” school, I didn’t really know what I wanted 2007 Managing In the Argyll Street store, staff carry to do. I didn’t want to go to university but director, Coast hand-held mobile scanners so customers I wanted to work in retail. That’s where 2006 Retail director, can purchase items without queuing at I still get my buzz; with retail, you get an Coast the tills; the receipt is emailed to them. instant reaction,” she says. “You have to 1996-2005 Again, Evans is a natural with the tech- have a desire to be close to the customer. Management roles, nology, but where she shines is at the tills. I don’t know how anyone can do this job Marks & Spencer “Did you find what you were after?” she from just behind a desk.” 1994 International smiles at a customer, as she neatly packs At the fitting rooms, she proudly assignment, M&S, the purchases. “And have you shopped points to one of the sales assistants, who Paris here before?” is advising a customer on how best to 1991 Store There’s no doubt that Oasis parent wear a particular dress. “There’s nothing management roles, company Aurora Fashions is at the like being in a fitting room. Maybe we’ve M&S forefront of technology, but as Evans got the lining wrong on a garment, for 1989 Management shows, technology should facilitate the example. I don’t need to look at a report trainee, M&S art of retailing, which comes down to to see what the best-sellers are; you can Plugged in: technology and customer one thing only: knowing and satisfying find that out by being in a store on a service come together in Argyll Street your customer. l
44 Drapers Next Generation