DONNA DONNA TALKS Karan on life Donna Karan, after Donna and her emotional departure. 48 p. Feature KARL’S FABULOUS FENDI Lagerfeld gets Karl set to celebrate 50 at the Italianyears house. fashion 40 p. Feature EVER GREEN Catching up with Sir Philip Green, merchant Britain’s billionaire. 44 p. Feature 800 JAPAN ¥1500 JAPAN CHINA ¥80 HONG KONG HK100 INDIA US $9.99 $13CANADA UK £ 8 €EUROPE 11

Fall

Paris

Delight Earthly

season bloomed. 8 p. Fashion Agenda Bosch as the couture Bosch as the couture with Hieronymus with Hieronymus went to the garden the garden to went Dior’s Raf Simons Dior’s

Couture Fashion. Beauty. Business. Business. Beauty. Fashion. No.1

2015 2015 JUL JUL

EARTHLY DELIGHT “Every girl loves posing in her underwear. It’s always fun to do that.” KENDALL JENNER Edward Nardoza EDITOR IN CHIEF Pete Born EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Bridget Foley EXECUTIVE EDITOR The James Fallon EDITOR Robb Rice GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR Features John B. Fairchild 1927 — 2015

MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera MANAGING EDITOR, Dianne M. Pogoda FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS EUROPEAN EDITOR Miles Socha DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR Evan Clark NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood DEPUTY EDITOR, DATA AND ANALYSIS Arthur Zaczkiewicz DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR Donna Heiderstadt SITTINGS DIRECTOR Alex Badia SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, Arthur Friedman TEXTILES & TRADE SENIOR EDITORS, FINANCIAL Arnold J. Karr, Vicki M. Young ASSOCIATE EDITOR Lorna Koski BUREAU CHIEF, LONDON Samantha Conti BUREAU CHIEF, MILAN Luisa Zargani BUREAU CHIEF, LOS ANGELES Marcy Medina ASIAN EDITOR Amanda Kaiser BUREAU CHIEF, WASHINGTON Kristi Ellis SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Bobbi Queen ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jenny B. Fine SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIALTY RETAIL Sharon Edelson SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET Julie Naughton BEAUTY EDITOR SENIOR FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Jessica Iredale SENIOR ACCESSORIES EDITOR Roxanne Robinson SENIOR MARKET EDITOR Mayte Allende A First for Fendi: EYE EDITORS Taylor Harris, Erik Maza MEN’S Karl’s Big Week SENIOR EDITOR Jean E. Palmieri FASHION DIRECTOR Alex Badia 40 Karl Lagerfeld is showing ASSOCIATE FASHION EDITOR Luis Campuzano MEN’S REPORTER Aria Hughes a full couture fur collection MARKET EDITORS for Fendi — marking the first FINANCIAL NEWS AND ANALYSIS Debra Borchardt ACCESSORIES Lauren McCarthy, time a designer is showing Misty White Sidell BEAUTY Molly Prior, Jayme Cyk two high collections during DIGITAL Rachel Strugatz READY-TO-WEAR, Bobbi Queen one couture week. FURS & INNERWEAR FASHION READY-TO-WEAR & SPORTSWEAR NEWS Rosemary Feitelberg MEDIA Alexandra Steigrad READY-TO-WEAR AND Kristi Garced Sir Philip Unleashed SPORTSWEAR FASHION EYE Ally Betker, 44 One of Britain’s Leigh Nordstrom CORRESPONDENTS richest men, self-made LONDON Nina Jones LONDON, EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lorelei Marfil multibillionaire Sir Philip LOS ANGELES Khanh T.L. Tran Green is celebrating the 10th LOS ANGELES Kari Hamanaka MILAN, FASHION AND NEWS Alessandra Turra anniversary of London’s NEW YORK, EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS William Cotto, Tara Bonet-Black, Fashion Retail Academy, the Kelsi Zimmerman NEW YORK, FASHION ASSISTANTS Andrew Shang, Ashley Davis, school he founded to help Kayana Cordwell, Milton Dixon, Emily Mercer young people develop their PARIS, EUROPEAN BEAUTY EDITOR Jennifer Weil PARIS, SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Laurent Folcher skills and talents in the sector. PARIS, SENIOR BUSINESS NEWS EDITOR Joelle Diderich PARIS, GENERAL ASSIGNMENT Paulina Szmydke REPORTER, NEWS PARIS, EDITORIAL AND WEB ASSISTANT Anne-Aymone Gheerbrant Donna Karan: WEB EDITOR, EUROPE Laure Guilbault SAN FRANCISCO, TECHNOLOGY Maghan McDowell To Be Continued DESIGN DEPARTMENT 48 The designer reflects on CREATIVE DIRECTOR Nick Mrozowski ART DIRECTOR Geraldson Chua her emotional departure SENIOR DESIGNER Christa Guerra DESIGNER Robyn Boehler from the brand she founded ASSOCIATE DESIGNER Jewelyn Butron PHOTOGRAPHY with her late husband, PHOTO DIRECTOR Ash Barhamand Stephan Weiss, 30 years ago, ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR Jenna Greene BOOKINGS AND PRODUCTION EDITOR Tricia VanGessel and tells what’s next on her ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR Katrina Brown PHOTO ASSISTANT Morrigan Maza agenda. PHOTO STUDIO PHOTO STUDIO MANAGER Eileen Tsuji PHOTO STUDIO ASSISTANT Emily Taylor Blooming Bold PHOTOGRAPHERS George Chinsee, Steve Eichner, Thomas Iannaccone 52 COPY DESK Bright botanical motifs COPY CHIEF Maureen Morrison-Shulas give resort collections a flirty, COPY EDITORS Danielle Gilliard, David Podgurski, Maxine Wally feminine appeal. PREPRESS PRODUCTION DIGITAL IMAGING Alex Sharfman PREPRESS ASSEMBLY David Lee Chin WWD.COM SITE DIRECTOR Michelle Preli WEB EDITOR Roberta Correia ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR Kristen Tauer Prabal Gurung’s silk satin dress. DIGITAL DAILY DESIGNER Sharon Ber Cuff by Alexis Bittar; necklaces WEB PRODUCER Robert Tutton by Orly Genger by Jaclyn PUBLIC RELATIONS

Photograph by JUCO by Photograph Mayer; shoes by Brian Atwood. PR COORDINATOR Christina Mastroianni Contents

Paul Jowdy SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER

ADVERTISING ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Pamela Firestone INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR, Renee Moskowitz RMM MEDIA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S Brett Mitchell BEAUTY DIRECTOR Carly Gresh JEWELRY AND WATCH DIRECTOR Jennifer Petersen ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Samantha Hartje Shannon Fitzgerald Alexandra Smith SENIOR CLIENT SERVICES MANAGER Joanna Block CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERS Annie Belfield Suzette Minetti Tina Schissel REGIONAL OFFICES/ INTERNATIONAL OFFICES

WEST COAST DIRECTOR Jill Biren +1-323-965-7283 EUROPEAN ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Giulia Squeri +39-02-722-33602 ACCOUNT MANAGER, ITALY Olga Kouznetsova +39-02-722-33603 SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR, ITALY Emanuela Altimani EUROPEAN DIRECTOR, FRANCE Valérie Deschamps-Wright +33-1-44-51-07-611 EUROPEAN SALES REPRESENTATIVE Marjorie Thomas +33-240-31-6541 ADVERTISING ASSISTANT, FRANCE Pascale Rajac

DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES MARKETING DIRECTOR Shannon Nobles CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING Cass Spencer DIGITAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Cassie Leventhal “It’s like, ‘Oh, that’s the line? Well, guess what? DIGITAL SALES PLANNER Amy Keiser I moved the f--king line, so deal with it.’” AUDIENCE MARKETING VP & SENIOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Ellen Dealy CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR Peggy Pyle — Austin Stowell, on his role in the forthcoming SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Janet Menaker police drama “Public Morals.” Arts & Culture, page 32 & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENT PLANNING & OPERATIONS DIRECTOR John Cross SENIOR DIRECTOR, Randi Segal INSTITUTIONAL SALES SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER Suzanne Berardi SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Tamra Febesh ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER Lauren Busch PRODUCTION PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Kevin Hurley Agenda PRODUCTION MANAGER Providence Rao SUMMITS & EVENTS VICE PRESIDENT, NEW VENTURES AND GM Amber Mundinger EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mary Ann Bacher Fashion 8 Accessories 19 DIRECTOR, ATTENDEE SALES Kim Mancuso The couture collections begin Saddle Up: Dior accessories SPONSORSHIP DIRECTOR Alexis Coyle in Paris…Kendall Jenner gets from the John Galliano era DIRECTOR OF EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING Amelia Ewert

intimate…Eva Longoria has a are gaining momentum in the secret…Fashion Briefs vintage market…Accessories FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC Briefs Stephanie George PRESIDENT AND VICE CHAIRMAN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF Michael Atmore FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT Retail 15 Markets 21 FINANCE DIRECTOR Devon Beemer What keeps fashion’s top A preview of New York textile DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS Ron Wilson executives up all night? There’s week, which is launching at a plenty…Retail Briefs crucial and complicated time… Markets Briefs WWD AND FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC ARE DIVISIONS OF PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION

Jay Penske CHAIRMAN & CEO VICE CHAIRMAN Gerry Byrne Beauty 17 25 EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, George Grobar IFF chairman Andreas Fibig Wrapping up the Paris men’s STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS collections…The Dandy Man: EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, Paul Woolnough details the fragrance company’s BUSINESS AFFAIRS plans for growth and Will the overly embellished SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, Craig Perreault innovation…Beauty Briefs styles play in New York?… BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT M Briefs GENERAL COUNSEL & Todd Greene SVP HUMAN RESOURCES VICE PRESIDENT, CREATIVE Nelson Anderson VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE Ken Delacazar VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES Tarik West VICE PRESIDENT, ENGINEERING Gabriel Koen DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Lauren Gullion DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS Joni Antonacci DEPARTMENTS CONTROLLER Young Ko SENIOR PROGRAM MANAGERS Christina Yeoh, 6 Social Studies • Report Card Amber Heard and Kate Middleton Derek Ramsey The best and worst in social media, what’s lead the ladies, while Chris Christie and The Donald DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Eddie Ko DIRECTOR OF IT OPERATIONS Rick Gascon, trending, whom to follow. drag down the average for the gents. & PRODUCTION Matt Williamson SENIOR IT ANALYSTS Carl Foner 31 Eye 62 They Are Wearing Aramis Miranda-Reyes IT ANALYSTS Don Gerber • Parties Scenes from Rosetta Getty’s Fourth of July They’re sweltering all over Paris and Barcelona. Fred Baez bash in the Tuscan countryside, and Miu Miu’s Paris fete. 64 Remember TO CONTACT WWD • Arts & Culture Actor Austin Stowell talks about An update on the Geoffrey Beene Cancer Research EDITORIAL +1-212-256-8130 his role as a cop who bends the rules in the Center at Memorial Sloan-Kettering. ADVERTISING +1-212-256-8103 CIRCULATION +1-515-237-3650 forthcoming TNT series “Public Morals.” • They Are Partying on the high seas, munching 66 Finale on a better burger, finding the next Red Bull, and The Debut: In her first WWD interview, a 25-year- ON THE COVER: Backstage at Dior Couture. generally letting it all hang out. old Donna Karan wants to get “très chic.” Photograph by Kuba Dabrowski

4 JULY 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM SOCIAL STUDIES THE WEEK IN SOCIAL MEDIA Follow Us @WWD Best EDITED BY KRISTEN TAUER

L.L. Bean’s most popular shoe was made Pamella Roland indulges her model’s sweet Barneys New York planned ahead for a wild Announcing Lupita’s latest role: helping to for more than just walking. tooth in Paris. (and dare we say whimsical?) weekend. save endangered elephants in Africa.

@llbean @pamellaroland @barneysnyofficial @lupitanyongo Retailer Fashion designer Retailer Actress

Worst

“Monday calls for S’mores Pizza. #IMNY #nyc “Look” #instayum” We’re looking and looking but still can’t spot Some things should stay around a weekend Josh Ostrovsky shows off his rosier side. On-brand but massively off-putting. Justin’s #Calvins. campfire.

@thefatjewish @terryrichardson @justinbieber @isaacmizrahiny Personality Photographer Singer Fashion designer

Trending #COUTURE Week in Paris Let’s Follow

@Kendalljenner @CameronDecades of course I said yes #Chanel Parisian couturiers please DANCING QUEENBERTRAND DEBUTS RACHEL’S DOG DAYS #HauteCouture provide air conditioning at your#fashionshows in#Paris. I like my#couture#Haute NOT#hot.#HeatWave

@jessicaalba So much beauty @GiambattistaPR #Couture show in #Paris

@natasupernova about last night... with my cuties @iosonomariacarlaboscono and @olympialetan @karliekloss photo by @timofeyk Taking this guy to see olesnikov#hot#haute#couture# the #Schiaparelli show unofficial#amfar#love #cheshirecat #olympialetan

@mistyonpointe @bertrandguyon @rachelantonoff Misty Copeland, Bertrand Guyon, Rachel Antonoff, ABT principal dancer design director for Schiaparelli fashion designer

6 JULY 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM EDITED BY DONNA HEIDERSTADT

outure Week. The very pairing than that of the hautes — couture and Fashion words ring lofty, no? joaillerie? Chanel delivered the most over-the-top Agenda No. Not anymore. presentation of the first three days as on Tuesday What long ago was morning Karl Lagerfeld incorporated a separate an intimate gathering show within his glittering couture show to high- of clients, press and light the jewelry, a complete re-edition of the retailers has long since stunning Bijoux de Diamants from 1932, the only C morphed. In this Age fine jewelry Coco herself ever created. In short, the of Endless Marketing, extravaganza featured a host of celebrities includ- Couture Week is yet another window for anyone ing Julianne Moore, Kristen Stewart, Rita Ora with a product to celebrate — and a significant and Jemima Kirke, each wearing a look Lagerfeld budget with which to do so — to jump in, ring bells designed just for her and all dripping in diamonds. and get noticed. Elsewhere on the jewelry circuit, only 10 rar- The high jewelers, those who populate the efied houses made the Chambre Syndicale’s official discreetly yet mightily secured salons of Place calendar, but countless others staged openings Vendôme, were the first to move in, which made and events. Getting it all under way: Judith Price’s perfect sense. Could there be a more natural High Jewelry and Timepieces Awards. ►

Dior Haute Couture Raf Simons wowed with angelic white dresses, dramatic fur sleeves and side-fastened columns — in a faux-glass stage set.

Paris in Bloom Amid haute jewelry and beauty interlopers, Couture Week got under way as Raf dazzled with earthly delights, Donatella went for sophisticated sizzle and Giambattista gave pretty a bit of an edge. BY BRIDGET FOLEY Photograph by Stéphane Feugère Stéphane by Photograph Giannoni Giovanni by gown white Dabrowski; Kuba by fashions outdoor Feugère; Stéphane by photograph Structure

8 JULY 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM JULY 2015, No. 1 9 Resort, the season that just won’t end, opened in early May and rolls into July, so why not take Giambattista Valli advantage? While the ever-elusive Priestess of Cool The designer embellished his party clothes with crystals, feathers and embroidery. Atelier Versace Chic Phoebe Philo took her usual Garbo approach Donatella Versace embraced evening Agenda to showing Céline — “come, but no pictures” — the with graceful, pretty silhouettes. great Goddess of Cool Chic, Miuccia Prada, went the reverse route. She commissioned “Miu Miu club,” a rollicking, raucous, star-studded — from Fashion But to some of us, Couture Week is still first and foremost about the clothes.

the endlessly glamorous Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell to 15-year-old Kiernan Shipka — party for the joint purpose of showing the brand’s resort collection and launching its first fragrance (lily of the valley and peppery accents; girly blue- and-red bottle).

h, the beauty world. MAC muscled into the week with a party in col- laboration with Giambattista Valli. A And there were anniversaries to note: Lancôme (80th) and Viktor & Rolf (Flower Bomb fragrance, 10th). There were (or will be) parties (amfAR) and other openings as well — Tory Burch and Elie Saab stores; Louis Vuitton’s La Galerie, a private museum to showcase the house goods. But to some of us, Cou- ture Week is still first and foremost about the clothes. In the early going, Dior’s Raf Simons found bold fashion in a study of Bosch’s “The Garden of Earthly Delights.” Donatella Versace wisely channeled her house’s siz- zle into a graceful take on evening, and Giam- battista Valli infused his pretty party clothes with a soupçon of edge. When the shows finish in Paris on Wednesday, the fashion flock hits the road for a special, home- town edition of Maria Gra- zia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Valentino that promises an intimate insid- er’s view of Rome. But before that: In Paris, a haute interloper unlike any other. Miuccia Prada On Wednesday night, the showed Miu Miu tireless Lagerfeld will show resort and launched a fragrance with a second couture collection a party. — this one for Fendi, mark- ing his 50th (not a typo) year designing for the house. Though he loathes anniversaries, Lagerfeld is focusing on the fashion, unfazed by elevating the already stratospheric Fendi to official haute Dice Ralph & Ulyana status. “I don’t want to sound pretentious, but Kayek Russo Sergeenko I invented a lot with furs so I can handle that as Schiaparelli long as I have good workrooms to work with,” Ece Ege paid Tamara Ralph The designer he tells WWD’s Miles Socha (page 40). “I see it Bertrand Guyon’s homage to channeled an paired Russian debut was an ode Seventies nightlife enchanted fairy aristocrats with like another material: Velvet or fur, it’s the same to Elsa: a balance with Pop Art tale of “young working-class thing. It’s just another technique.” And another between simplicity embroideries and tsarinas” in folks — to addition to Couture Week, this one sure to be and extravagance. updated tuxedoes. evening gowns. decadent effect. Valli and Schiaparelli runway photographs by Stéphane Feugère; backstage by Delphine by backstage Feugère; Stéphane by photographs runway and Schiaparelli Valli Giannoni Giovanni by silhouettes and Schiaparelli Valli Miu Miu, Achard; worthy of the distinction. ■ by Kayek Delphine Achard; by inset Feugère; Stéphane by photograph runway Versace Giannoni Giovanni by and Sergeenko Russo dress, Versace Dominique Maître;

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JULY 2015, No. 1 Fashion Agenda E my brandandmyself,” she said. her own fashion line,butthetimingwasn’t right. wives” in2004,saidshe’s always wantedtohave House- “Desperate onthehitABCseries Solis an apparel collection. for “patternsandtextiles” tocreate herfashions. me,” she said.“Isew.” “It’s oneofthethingspeopledon’t know about todresses”costumes forherselfandherfriends. into apparel, from creating “Halloween everything withthrowstarting pillows andduvets andmoving preneur saidshe’s beensewingherwhole life, Right now, fragrances,Eva she hastwo by Eva “I’m acontrol freak relating aboutanything to Longoria, tofameas Gabrielle who catapulted So itmakes sensethatshe would oneday launch And inherglobaltravels, Longoria always looks The award-winning actress,directorandentre-

WWD.COM Sewing UpaDeal By By Actress Eva Longoria turningapassioninto is abusiness. JEAN E. PALMIERI “People thinkI’mcrazy.” a chainstitch,’” she laughed. new pedal.‘Ooh, do now Ican so excited when theydevelop a machine inmy houseandI’m seamstress. she’s anaccomplished actually va Longoria has a secret — “I have anindustrialsewing began her career inthepubliceye hercareer began in1998after a senseofglamour,” Longoria said. while evokingversatility and confidence,comfort and pickingfabulouspieces.” ning phases.We’re going through my closetnow the designofline,which justinits“begin- is will beintroduced year. laterthis McCarthy onherSeven7 apparel that collection also becreated by Sunrise’s team. digital platformwill to bedetermined.Ane-commerce sportswear. have anddistribution Thepricing yet ofdresses,consist careerapparel andcasual handbags andfashion accessories. Thelinewill fall 2016andeventually expand into footwear, women’s apparel thatwilllaunch collection for wear manufacturer Brandstocreate a Sunrise Before, Iwasjusttoobusy.” said. “Ifinally have toit. thetimetodedicate teamed upwithJ.C. Penney onalineofbedding. as well andearlier year, asacookbook, this she Longoria andEVAmour, withFalic Fashion Group, Her well glamouris known. The40-year-old forsure: Thelinewill“offerOne thingis women Longoria saidshe willbeintimately involved in alsoworking is Sunrise with actress Melissa Longoria Angeles-based turnedtoLos sports- “Now it’s timetomove intoapparel,” Longoria I Spanish. It’s andsofun.”■ behind-the-scenes ofaSpanishsoapoperawhostar “doesn’t speak comedy, “Hot &Bothered,” where she plays the asAnaSofia inthenewNBCmidseason She’ll star smile. “And I’mfinally going back to television.” with philanthropy andempower women.” we source ourtextiles. We want toalignourselves that’s“Whether through creating jobsorwhere actresses by TV the highest-paid Forbes in2011. way,” saidLongoria, who wasnamedasoneof has Down syndrome. Elizabeth needs.Her sister of thosewithspecial nonprofit thathelpsenrichthelives organization tion andentrepreneurship, andherEva’s Heroes women buildbetterfuturesLatin through educa- both herEva Longoria Foundation, which helps philanthropic bent. brand.” lifestyle unique platformonwhich tobuildasuccessful with herpowerful tofansoffersa connection and streetHercoupled fashion style. credibility recognizedconsistently inthepress forred carpet company asanexciting asshe is opportunity tion withEva Longoria immediately struckour conceptofafashionagreed, collec- noting:“The in thefashion space.” of. Webeen apart seeunlimitedpotentialfor Eva thatshethe variouslicensesandbusinesses has evidentin tocreate brands is appeal. Her ability inspirationalfashion withuniversalhigh-end Brands,Longoria “representsfounder ofSunrise still wantstolooklike amillionbucks.” doesn’t wanttospenda lotonherwardrobe, but wants thingstotransitionfrom work She tonight. tion should appeal tothe“working woman who money tolookgreat,” she said,notingthecollec- fans amongwomen. up herday job, she believes heraestheticwillfind of herown fashion linemeansshe willhave togive spends every wakinghouronit.” lives andbreathes fashion,” Longoria said.“She tofashionjump from designer. entertainer “She cut forme.” know why soexpensive. they’re Andit’s really You lookatthetextiles andthestitchesyou of herdresses are andthefabrics amazing. Thecuts Beckham. “thebiggestfanofVictoria is Mouret “exposed andhis zippers” andsaidshe off. forflares.” “I’mtooshort flares are in,”forexample, she said,she shrugs it ments, butmy own skin, too. Ifsomeonetellsme she said.“Notonly myand comfortable,” gar- dresses,” butshe’s “nottrendy.” in“amazing onthered been photographed carpet low-maintenance.pretty Sure, she said,she’s often Universitynia State Northridge, considersherself master’s Studiesfrom degree Califor- inChicano women inHollywood. ButLongoria, who hasa she widely is considered oneofthemostbeautiful Texas,she Christi, wascrowned Corpus Miss and “I’m going backtowork,” she saidwithabig So what’s next? “We’re definitely going togive backin some with Longoria hasbeenachampionofLatinas brandmust haveOne thingthatlifestyle a is Jackie Swerz, Sunrise’s chiefmarketing officer, In theeyes ofGerard Guez,chairmanand “I always say you don’t needtospendalotof While Longoria doesn’t expect theintroduction Beckham’sShe alsorespects tomake the ability toRoland partial is 2-inchactress The 5-foot, “I would my asclassic describe personalstyle skirt, it’sskirt, justtoomuch trouble.” andabeltnecklace a camisole wear —it’s justzipandgo. IfIhave towear easyto like she one-pieces,” said.“They’re nstead, she leansheavily toward dresses. “I

Photograph by Ian Langsdon/epa/Corbis K Calvin Kleinundies. who over theyears have allstripped down totheir Justin Bieber, Turlington, StoneandChristy Lara Kendall Undressing With In terms of daring, the new underwear ads rank ads rank In termsofdaring, thenewunderwear Kate Moss, Eva Mendes, MichaelBergin, Mark, ofMarky steamy society the world, willjointhe peoplein tographed most followed andpho- in herunderwear. endall Jenner loves posing Jenner, oneofthe By By Heralding OriginalSexy.” thereturn of“The LISA LOCKWOOD paign features ofthemodels individual portraits with Joan, andmeallthegirls are friends.” reached lastweek toldWWD. inLondon, “I’mclose underwear. It’s always Jenner, funtodothat,” ads break atthe endofthemonth. Smalls, IsabeliFontana Vilkeviciute. andEdita The OriginalSexy.”return of“The a reassertionofitsrisquétradition,signalingthe company’s creative as teamseesthecampaign up there withsomeofCalvin’s sexiest. And the Shot by MikaelJansson inNewYork, thecam- “It wassuperfun.Every girl loves posing in her The 19-year-old model wasshot with Joan T Having girls around who are allmy friends,the son shotandhe andIhave it, agood chemistry. own page. shoot wasamazing. MikaelJans- “The photosplans topostsomeoftheunderwear onher her lifeinthepubliceye viaPlanetKardashian. world’s modelandlives mostin-demand much of heritage as a leader in the intimates category.”heritage asaleaderintheintimates women from allover theworld tocelebrateour Inc. “We’re bringingtogether apowerful mixof chiefmarketingGoldie, officerofCalvin Klein to reclaim, reimagine and reimage saidMelisa it,” Calvinhigher-end product, Klein Black. suits inseductive fits. Theadswillfocusonthe and cleavage), plunge-neck andbody- chemises the breasts toenhancetheir appearance, shape dered lacesling balconettes(ashelf brathatlifts showcasing ofembroi- anelevatedassortment Kendall Jenner always funto dothat.” in herunderwear. It’s Every girl loves posing “It wassuperfun. With 30millionfollowers Jenner onInstagram, “Calvin Kleinoriginatedsexy, andwe’re going Jenner, who’s emerged asthefashion that nighttodotheChanelshow,” said Fashion Week fortheday, andflewout York. “Ihadflown infrom from Paris 59he shoot inNew tookplaceatPier , onhernew CalvinKleinadcampaign. WWD.COM

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JULY 2015, No. 1 Fashion Agenda with Topshop. has herown Kendall +Kylie clothingcollaboration forKleinandEstéeLauder.campaigns Shealso and Milan,posingformagazinecovers andad show, TV reality runway shows inNewYork, Paris has beenjam-packed thelastfewseasons withher saidthemodel,whose calendar avacation,” is August andmay home go but“being onvacation, want ittobegreat?” tobe“great, campaign underwear why wouldn’t I sexy images, saying she expects tothe thereaction doesn’t seemtofearany backlash puritan from the young girls, Jenner replied, tobe.”Andshe “Itry chic andclassy.” theCalvindescribed ae theywere.” athowsurprised comfortable She something Iwould wear…The brasare great; Iwas energy wasreally great,” she said. and see.You have tokeep ■ somethingssecret.” to continue therelationship.” said,“We Goldie campaigns, hopeso. We hope +Partners. Laird and theadagency creative ofKlein’s direction in-houseadagency waistband. impactful visually ofcolortocreate a andtheintensity of metal Calvin KleinMagnetic,which combinestheshine imagery formen’s key launches product suchas Sorensen willbefeatured in theretail marketing Fontana’s for thebrand. firstcampaign forCalvin is KleinJeans.global adcampaign This 2009. Smallshasalsoappeared inthespring2012 brands sinceshe wasfirstintroduced inspring forthecompany’sple globaladcampaigns lifestyle ship withthehouse,having beenthefaceofmulti- Series. Vilkeviciute relation- hasalong-standing Calvin KleinJeansited-edition #mycalvins Denim she appeared intheimage forthelim- campaign year.paign forthehousethis pastspring This was flattoayear ago. to reveal budget, thefallunderwear butsaidit ing aselfiewearing Calvin declined Klein.Goldie by post- mediacampaign inthesocial participate which encouragesaction, fansofthebrandto imagery willalsoincludethe#mycalvins to call Adsation around sexy” campaign. “the original andcreate conver-and mobilesiteswillamplify placementsonsocial fall.Digital countries this outdoor andprintadvertising andwillrunin21 Gala andtheTony Awards. appearances, suchcarpet astheMet Gala,amfAR her age. Totally professional andsuperengaged.” Jenner described as“incrediblyGoldie mature for tohappen. Shehasahugestarting fanbase.” to engage withayounger audience. That’s already usa compellingenergytoourbrandthatenables Jenner forsometime“and she’s already bringing out ofyourself.” toget trying rush. Shootingis thebestproduct Runway it. seasons, Imiss like is anadrenaline for sure. WhenI’m notdoingrunway, between A On apersonalnote,Jenner hasalotoftimeoffin Asked ifshe considersherselfarole modelfor CalvinJenner KleinUnderwear called “definitely Jenner wasmore cagey. “You’ll have towait Asked whether Jenner willappear infuture underthe is The fallglobalmediacampaign To modelTobias thecampaign, support marks Jenner’sThis secondglobaladcam- spansdigital, The newmultimedia campaign Calvin Kleinhaswardrobed Jenner forherred CKI’s hasbeenworking Goldie closely with

WWD.COM me,” she noted.“Ienjoy doingboth different bothpretty to “They’re runway andcommercial shoots. moves the between backandforth s forhermodelingcareer, Jenner sthetic as“really timeless, self-taught designerof Fashion O the Streets Taking Itto ANDAM WINNER Stéphane Ashpool, the Novgorod, Russia @yulia_ermakova23 convinced herto tag alongonanagency visitinhernative Russia. New York, Europe andHongKong, played volleyball for 10years before afriend of thiswas of part herbigplan. The20-year-old model, whosplitshertimebetween Interview magazine—allcementingherstatus asanewcomer to watch. Butnone fall 2015runway season—andshe’s featured inaneditorial intheJuneissueof INSTAGRAM: HOMETOWN: AGENCY: MEASUREMENTS: EYES: HAIR: HEIGHT: O 32-24-34 Yulia Ermakova scored theCalvinKleinandCelineshows asexclusives thispast

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APM Models

Nizhny Ermakova

together,” hesaid going to have alot of fun him over. “I thinkwe are and positive vibewon brand’s useof color to thejudges. street kidsstate his case the designer, whohad young generation,” said atelier, andopenitto the in-house atelier, aproper dent of globalfashion. Pavlovsky, Chanel’s presi- as mentoring by Bruno Fashion Award —aswell 250,000 euro ANDAM make judicioususeof the Paris, said heplansto streetwear labelPigalle Yulia Pavlovsky saidthe “I want to develop an —PAULINA SZMYDKE MODEL CALL . Briefs put iton.” touched themomentshe butshetoo wasso hot, it would betoo heavy and her. Ithought right onefor was the the dress didn’t think “I actually QUOTED wore to theMet GalainMay. on her55-poundcanary-colored gown, whichRihanna — KRISTI GARCED

Chinese designer GuoPei take 100selfies. everything... Icannot that loves to post I’m not of thetype person on Instagram? What are your thoughts now Ilike it. were weird atfirst, but ing aboutit. Thebangs short!” Iwas almost cry- “Nooo, don’t cutmy hair hair,short andIwas like, some girlswithreally then Igot excited. Isaw At first, Iwas scared, and bangs! And they cut your You alsobooked Celine. take abreak.” “If you want, you cango so sweet. Hewould say, that. Francisco [Costa] is never doneanything like first season, andIhad an openmouth. Itwas my I was standing there with I didn’t know whatto say. exclusive? Calvin Kleinasan you heard you’d booked How didyou react when happy for me. Iwas 15. the spot. Myfriendwas But they signedmeon I’m just here for support.” at me, andIsaid, “Look, at her, thenthey looked the agency], they looked me.” Whenwe went [to “OK, just cometo support But Isaidno. Shesaid, go to amodelingagency.” pictures of me? Iwant to “Can you take some One day, my friendsaid, So how didyou start? I’m avolleyball player!” “I cannot have longnails, took itseriously. Iwas like, and skinny. ButInever All thetime. Iwas sotall should model? ever tell you thatyou Growing up, didpeople ,

Model Call photograph courtesy of APM Models; Guo Pei by Shannon Fagan

Prop styling by Priscilla Jeong T retailers.” many regional, nationalandglobal otherlocal, ofitsbusinesswith aspects in otherimportant employees, store and sites,products andservices andsaidit“competesthe sector forcustomers, retailer, alsopointed tothevariousplayers in Wal-Martrisk. Stores Inc.,the world’s largest resourcesfinancial available to them.” are larger than J.C. Penney, and/or have greater J.C. Penney “Somecompetitors Co. Inc.notesthat, shoppingretailers andtelevision And networks. everyone from full-pricestores tooutlets, online squares offin“highly competitive conditions”with although it’s oneofthenation’s largest retailers, it other brandsandstores, bothonlineandoff. universally feelingthethreat ofcompetition from how companiesseetheworld. reveals perceived threats andkey differences in ilarities anddifferences thestatements between in extreme butaclosereading legalese, ofthesim- Factors,” Risk “Item 1A. thetroubles are expressed intheirannual reports toinvestors.detail forced tolay bare theirconcernsinexcruciating down: Publicly heldcompaniesintheU.S. are when aninstance theguardis grudgingly comes Butthere andspoutingcautious optimism. nities of thecorporateexecutive, highlightingopportu- change. logical ofhand-wringing aboutbroader plenty techno- is for thehere-and-now world offashion, butthere That’s what keeps meupatnight.” The peoplewithmoneywillnotwanttoshow it. bedespised. clients willbetargeted, hated.They’ll we’ll have, pact social butwe betterfindone.Our employment?” hesaid.“Idon’t know what kindof intelligence andtheInternetofThings. about therisks presented by robots, artificial whonie Financière Richemont, lastmonthtalked sleeves like Johann chairmanofCompag- Rupert, with customerdata. hackers willbreak intotheirsystems andabscond Andmore andmorespectrum. are concerned their reputations from different endsoftheprice Nordstrom Inc. andTarget Corp. jealously guard the complexities ofinternationalexpansion. Inc.andLBrandsfretInc., TJXCos. over oftheircentralplayer.services Wal-Mart Stores man” riskandwhat happens iftheylosethe such asRalphLauren Corp., worry about“key turning andtearinguptheirpillows. Photograph by EDITED BY Size andresources, though,are notelixirsfor Macy’sIn itsannual Inc.notesthat report, Primarily, retailers are fretful over oneanother, undertheratherboringheadingof Detailed Most sheathe theirfears inthebanalrhetoric That mightrankassomethingofanexotic fear going“How tocopewithshrinking society is Few are willingtowear theirtroubles ontheir tiedtohigh-profileCompanies personalities, EVAN CLARK ► DAVID BRANDONGEETING tives tossingand upatnight, to keep fashion’s topexecu- intelligence, there’s plenty and even ofartificial therise playerthe lossofasuperstar and omnichannelcoststo fashion. he boogeymen are outin From rabidcompetition Up at Night Retail top executives to betossing andturning. There ofreasons forfashion’s are plenty Agenda By By EVAN CLARK WWD.COM

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JULY 2015, No. 1 Retail Agenda fashion andretail: stituencies is unknown.” is stituencies guests, teammembers,vendors andothercon- discontinuing ourCanadianoperationson an omnichannel structure is anexample is an omnichannelstructure ofhow only retailer.” reported whencally we were primarily astore- a lower operatingmarginthanwe have histori- Our omnichannelbusinesscurrently generates mediaand/ormobile, social otherinteractions. channel experience thatincludesin-store, online, an in-store only shopping experience toamulti- changes.” adequately manage therelated organizational to evolve andtransformourstrategy, we may not wemerce….As execute ourplansandcontinue in how theyshop instores orthrough e-com- able tomeetourcustomers’changingexpectations change intheretail environment, we may notbe were services.” tolosehis with Mr. Lauren’s namemay bedamaged ifwe brand image andleverage thegoodwill associated in themarket.” customer preferences andseasonaldifferences withlocal with ourbrands,lackoffamiliarity customers duetoalackofcustomerfamiliarity national markets includedifficultiesinattracting withour expansion associated risks intointer-

KOHL’S CORP. TARGET VICTORIA’S SECRET PARENT LBRANDS RALPH LAUREN NORDSTROM Here are someoftheother1Aitemsvexing The move by Kohl’s andscores of otherstoward

WWD.COM Donald Trump onthis.” stand the wrong taking they’re but correct, be politically They wantto chokers... I hate pressure. choked under “Macy’s QUOTED sparked afirestorm. about immigrants after hisstatements to stop hisbrand carrying on Macy’s Inc.’s decision “The long-term of reputational “The impact “Our businesshasevolved from “With theacceleratedpaceof “With ,

“Our ability to maintain our tomaintain “Our ability

the Cure," Wu said. very loudandclearthatitisfor Key to to create onethatwas refined. Andit's out there. We felt itwas really important "There are somany graphic Ts already result resembled akey withinapainting. were reimagined andscanned. Theend the concept withbrushstrokes that is asource of inspiration, said hestarted whose fondness for artists midcentury contended withcanceryourself.” loved onefacing acancerdiagnosis, or whether you’ve known orcared for a affected by cancerinsomeway, actress said, “Everyone hasbeen go onsaleOct. 1. TheOscar-winning announcements will in publicservice to theCure T-shirt thatMoore models institutions anddisciplines. among leadingscientists from different cancer research through collaboration EIF offshoot created to fuelinnovative teaming upwithStand Upto Cancer, an installment willbethefirst timeSaks is Cure campaign. Inits17thyear, the2015 winning combofor thisyear’s Key to the Julianne Moore andJasonWu to bea Industry Foundationare countingon Saks FifthAvenue andtheEntertainment Moore Models Wu Designs, KEY TO THECURE Reached inhisNew York studio, Wu, The limited-edition Wu-designed Key “The “The — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

equation only gets harder tomanage. other number ofquickly developing andthe issues fast fashion, thewhims oftheconsumer and any thecompetitivethreat threat ofcybertheft, of and multiplying costsalong theway. Add inthe big moves withinretailers, addingcomplexity change ingeneral shopping prompt habitscan Retail about thenear-term are now more optimistic spending. “[Consumers] translate into additional seen ifthegoodvibes But itremains to be The Conference Board. in May, according to 101.4 inJunefrom 94.6 confidence jumpingto rebound, withconsumer are onanemotional June 2015 June 2014 O Shopper SentimentontheRise FEELING BETTER Consumer Confidence December February October  going tobethenameofgame.”■ are really forward, is changing. Going flexibility ways consumers. Allthesethings you attract can things you dowithtechnologies, technologies, can are changingevery day.“Things There are new atA.T. aretail consultant Ben-Shabat, Kearney. tothingsasthey emerge,”to react added Hana way thatdoesnot[give] themenoughflexibility in oneway ina ofdoingthingsoronedirection, probablytraffic, thatmodelis dying.” display...advertise your store well andbringin fashion that’s outthere, bringitintoyour store works. Alternatively, hesaidifretailers that“take ering good valuetoshoppers, thenthemodelstill focuses allthemore onstaying ontrend anddeliv- them success.” general, theydomore got ofwhat hashistorically Whatdopeoplewhen they’re scared?ment. In happening over years,” headded.“It’s theadjust- utes ordays orweeks, theseare trends thatare these aren’t trends thatare happening inmin- moving exposed,” thenthey’re offthat, hesaid. how we make money,’ andthey have ahard time get is caught upintheirtraditionalmodelof, ‘This retailer traditionally hasn’t andifthey hadstrength coming atyou, cominginplacesthatthe butthey’re shifts. are ultimately more threatening thantheexternal Young, companies saidtheinternalrisks facing U.S. shoppers August “The risk is thatcompaniesget risk is settoomuch“The It’s amatterofkeeping upinachanging market. Gidumal saidthatif meansacompany bigger problembecause thereaction “The is are generally“These trends that you see can Shyam atErnst& Gidumal,retail consultant April Briefs spend inthenearterm.” a greater willingness to optimism couldleadto spirits, andtheirrenewed in considerably better “Overall, consumers are The Conference Board. economic indicators at Lynn Franco, director of little changed,” said income prospects is sentiment regarding future, although 86.4 89 90.3 91 94.6 93.1 94.3 94.1 93.4 98.8 101.4 101.4 103.8

Infographic by Carlos Monteiro; Moore photograph courtesy of Saks Fifth Avenue; Trump by Scott Olson/Getty Images Photographs EDITED BY For Growth IFF’s Plan PETE BORN by by THOMAS IANNACCONE By By research forwinning formula. Fragrance supplier focuseson PETE BORN Beauty Andreas Fibig, chairman and ceo of IFF. I Nicolas Mirzayantz numerous andgeographic categories product whereits intentionto“win we compete” inthe company’s Vision 2020 which declared statement, the marketplace.” ago,” change ameaningful is in hesaid.“There engage differently. Thatwasnotthere five, 10years anappetite forinnovationis andawillingnessto grances atIFF, “There agreed right. thetimeis to emphasizemore going forward.” for innovation...is really somethingwhich we have development,” Fibigcontinued. acatalyst “Being more againandvery decisively inourresearch and our way It’s back. thatwe really invest important coveries,” we find henoted.“What wanttodois of innovation, intermsofpioneeringnewdis- during arecent far-ranging interview. 2014, talked aboutthecompany anditshistory chairman andchiefexecutive officerinSeptember be seenastheclear leaderandoneofthem, side.” demands, whether onthe flavors orfragrance coming intoourbusiness,andwe seeregulatory side, we seecompanies —let’s say notcore —are a lotofpressure from our customersonthecost the topfour. rounds outthebigthree, while Symrise completes billion Swiss or$4.4 francs, billion.Firmenich 2014, while Givaudan topped therankingsat4.04 ber two.” where we are theleader, somewhere we’re num- “close tonumber three, number two.” ingredients toprovideical supply.” asustainable tech labsontheWest insearchcrit- Coast of“very Mirzayantz collaborating withbio- notedthatIFFis Mirzayantz. asserted care andhair-care segment,” ofchoiceinthevery attractiveers’ partners skin- andenableIFFtobeourcustom- offerings product company. our willstrengthen [acquisition] “This City, Canada,anunusual IFF’s determinationwasdriven homeby the Nicolas Mirzayantz, group president offra- IFF wasonce“theundisput IFF hastargeted someareas where it wantsto Fibig sketched outachangingmarket. “We see IFF’s revenues total edged past$3billionin Mirzayantz added,“there are somecategories Asked where IFFnow Fibigreplied, stands, The company alsoopentocollaborations. is Agenda maceutical industry,maceutical who joinedIFFas hyper-competitive supply industry. ing greater growth andshare inthe and development asameansofgain- itspastleadershipsert inresearch betting onaninnovation-fueled future. &Flavorsnternational Fragrances Inc.is Andreas Fibig,aveteran ofthephar- It haslaunched toreas- acampaign Meyer of Quebec Cosmetics binding offertobuyLucas ships andcollaborations. through partner- acquisitions, and broadening theportfolio withcustomers partnerships toform innovation, ability lars, includingbreakthrough oneoffourpil- regions. Itis That wasillustratedby IFF’s move forafragrance ed leaderinterms WWD.COM

JULY 2015, No. 1 ►

17 EDITED BY DIANNE M. POGODA in the fragrance area, is a microencapsulation delivery system, which Mirzayantz said IFF has pioneered. There has been “a profound shift in consumer demand,” he said, toward technology BeautyBriefs AccessoriesAgenda that breaks microscopic capsules to create a sense of freshness in shirts, for example, through the OBITUARY friction of washing, or ironing or simply wearing. The delivery system that began with detergents Burt Shavitz: scandal caused by his anti-Semitic remarks made “now has moved into personal wash, into home Eco Pioneer in 2011 that resulted in his dismissal from the care and is about to go into hair care,” Mirzayantz OA private family funeral house. But even before that, the designer’s bright, said. “Think about the concept of fragrance on service was to be held brash, more-is-more, logo-heavy bag styles and demand.” Tuesday for Burt Shavitz, their celebutante poster girl Paris Hilton had The executives also stressed that the pipeline a cofounder of Burt’s lost momentum as the aesthetic championed Bees and a pioneer of is stuffed with new molecules, including captive by Phoebe Philo and her minimalist concept for the eco-beauty industry. chemicals and botanicals, to drive perfumery He died of respiratory Céline took hold. creativity. Mirzayantz added that innovation also complications Sunday The Saddle bag was most popular from 2000 MAKEUP MANTRA means cost optimization. “How do we provide in Maine, where he lived. to 2005. Throughout its history, the style had access to more naturals, to more categories at an “I don’t believe Shavitz was 80. exhausted a library’s worth of visual references, affordable price, still driving the overall consumer Shavitz — a bee- from Rastafarian culture and newsprint to the liking and creating some quality of the value? It’s women need keeper known as “the Maharaja, matador costumes and more. really multilayered innovation.” bee man” — started the worked as a photojour- upscale skin-care prod- Now, the market appears ready to embrace more products, earth-friendly natural nalist in New York. ucts and baby care and Fibig underscored one of the three enablers personal-care brand, He and Quimby entered distribution grew to 50 extravagance again. Beyoncé Knowles was even in the Vision 2020 plan — sustainability. “It’s the they need better based in Raleigh, N.C., the beauty industry when countries. spotted wearing a gray tie-dye Saddle style in right thing to do,” he said, and “many of our with Roxanne Quimby in they discovered their Shavitz left the com- the fall. customers are selecting their partners up to a products. My the late Eighties. It began all-natural candle wax pany, which was sold to certain investment in sustainability, which goes mother always as a gift and health-food business could be used Clorox Co. in late 2007 nicely with health and wellness.” This goes hand- store line best known for as a base for skin-care for $925 million, and — “They are from a time in-hand with developing responsible products told me luxury beeswax lip balm and an products. Soon, the pair against the grain — lived unconventional style. began making lotions, out the latter part of his in fashion that was less using green chemistry, “or let’s say transparency is cheaper than The label’s packaging, soaps and eventually, life in the countryside, in terms of labels.” for instance, frequently cosmetics. away from the corporate Internet-driven, and Fibig stressed that the goal is to grow the com- rubbish.” features pictures of a Burt’s Bees subse- world. pany “disproportionately fast.” He noted that IFF bearded, flannel-clad quently broadened its Shavitz is survived by a less [available] to a major is now spending about 8 percent of total sales on Terry de Gunzburg, Shavitz. product categories brother. audience.” research and development. “With a growing top creator of By Terry Shavitz in the Sixties to include color, more — JENNIFER WEIL Christos Garkinos, co-owner of Decades line, you will see more growth and absolute dollars for R&D as well.” FARMACY tree farm) and patented Fresh Off the ingredient. After a “There is actually no reason two-year development “Until recently I stopped taking in the Saddle The Farm process with co-founder bag, I couldn’t have given them away. But in the that we are not the leader OWhen gardening and co-owner David past two months, I’ve brought them back into buff Mark Veeder saw Chung and general the store to sell again,” said Christos Garkinos, in this marketplace.” an unusual plant on his manager Caroline co-owner of Decades in Los Angeles, where Saddle upstate New York prop- Fabrigas, a new brand, bags steadily sell for $400 and Galliano-era Dior Andreas Fibig, chairman and chief executive officer of IFF erty, he didn’t dismiss it Farmacy, will be launched jewelry ranges from $500 to $1,000. as a weed. Instead, he later this summer. The turned it into a business brand — which will feature Garkinos reports that the value of Galliano-era opportunity. Turns out that break down the hand-harvested Green Dior bags and jewelry has increased by 30 to 50 Along with its vision statement, IFF also issued that plant, since dubbed skin’s firming protein and Envy in all 20 stockkeep- percent across the board in the past two years. annual financial targets for 2016 to 2020, which “Echinacea Green Envy,” inhibits the overprotec- ing units, ranging in price “They are from a time in fashion that was less has the highest-known tion of melanin. Veeder from $16.50 to $65 — will included 4 to 6 percent currency-neutral sales JUNE JACOBS Internet-driven, and less [available] to a major growth, 7 to 9 percent currency-neutral profit Healing Hero concentration of cichoric promptly enlisted farming be exclusive to Sephora, Saddle Up audience,” he said of the accessories’ under-the- growth and 10 percent currency-neutral growth acid, which helps protect expert Robert Beyfuss QVC and Farmacybeauty. radar appeal. In January 2013, June the skin’s collagen by (who’d helped Veeder’s com. in earnings per share. In addition, the company O Similar increased interest has been reported Jacobs was diagnosed with inhibiting the enzymes father found a Christmas — JULIE NAUGHTON Once-coveted bags and other accessories from forecasted $500 million to $1 billion sales growth early-stage breast cancer. from the reselling fray — from New York bar- in that period through acquisitions. During her journey, her skin the John Galliano era at Christian Dior are gaining gain-basement chain Beacon’s Closet to luxury Like its competitors, IFF has been widening broke down and Jacobs set PERRICONE MD innovate. “Many of my happiest consigner Ina. Both retailers said they, too, had not its footprint overseas, but now it’s time to come out to create a cream that Let’s Get The second phase of hours are spent in the renewed favor in the resale market. accepted consigners’ Dior pieces from Galliano’s home. “We want to refocus on the U.S.,” said Fibig. could help regenerate her Serious the campaign features lab, researching strate- By MISTY WHITE SIDELL time until recently. “The U.S. market is still the biggest market and it’s fragile skin. a thought leadership gies for healthy aging,” Online luxury reseller The Real Real said inter- our home market. We have the biggest footprint “I sat down after my seventh OWhen Nicholas video series inspired said Perricone. “My goal est in those handbags has increased by 25 percent radiation session and I figured Perricone launched his by TED Talks, called “Dr. is to provide you with the of all our competitors,” he continued, adding in the last year. On the apparel side, Galliano’s out what ingredients could beauty brand in 1997, Perricone On.” These tools that will help you to ashion’s creative cogs have long history — an era when forward-thinking trends that IFF is the only U.S.-based company. “There help me,” Jacobs said. “I have few others in the beauty segments delve into maintain that youthful, looked back, enlisting nostalgia for were less exhaustively broadcast. It’s a sentiment “J’Adore Dior” T-shirts for the label, which origi- is actually no reason that we are not the leader in given Dr. Ng, my radiation space were touting the a variety of simple radiant skin through- inspiration. While often begrudged that has sent the value of early-Aught Dior acces- nally sold for $195, are realizing that full price on this marketplace.” oncologist, over 700 tubes link between inflam- strategies to counteract out the decades. The by some fashion observers, that sories surging by up to 50 percent in the last two the resale market, the retailer said. The majority Looking at IFF’s performance curve, Fibig said, of this cream, which he has mation and aging. Now, aging, inflammation and Serious About Beauty same ethos is now rekindling inter- years, according to retailers in the resale market. of the site’s Galliano-era Dior consumers are “this company had a not-so-good phase, probably used successfully on all of his inspired by TED Talks, the secrets to youthful platform teaches that est in accessories from the John The Galliano-era Dior accessories have concentrated on either coast and represent patients at Cornell.” he’s aiming to take on and supple skin at any looking good and having F in the Nineties until 2008 or 2007. And then the Galliano era at Christian Dior, which been popping up in New York watering a generally younger customer warming to Launching in October during a wider breadth of sub- age. The videos will a positive body previous management team did a good effort to ran from 1996 to 2011. A hankering among Mil- holes frequented by downtown die-hards. designer merchandise. Breast Cancer Awareness jects with Serious About be released on image is not van- bring this company back and now our job is to month, June Jacobs Rapid Beauty, the company’s perriconemd.com ity—it is your road lennials for nostalgia is rehabbing the designer’s It’s not uncommon to see a miniature Ina’s Ina Bernstein said since accepting accelerate the growth and to capitalize on it. Repair Healing Cream new brand platform. and throughout to a long, healthy tarnished legacy of his days there — spawning Saddle bag taking a spin on the Saddle bags and Dior jewelry into “What is really an important indicator for us is blends edelweiss extract and To introduce the the brand’s social and happy life.” renewed, reappropriated interest in his logo-laden subterranean dance floor of her stores less than two years in how many of our businesses we are winning, imperatoria extract to combat initiative, the brand is media outlets. — J.N. accessories designs for the French house. Lower East Side haunt Happy ago, their typical sell-through particularly in the areas where we believe we are inflammation. releasing a number of Galliano’s Dior Saddle bags and logoed rhine- Ending (illustrated above), or periods have shrunk from three strong, like encapsulation technology and deliv- Priced at $60, the cream content-driven strate- stone jewelry were last popular in a time before cozying a bottle of Club-Mate at months down to three weeks. will be sold on b-glowing. gies on July 13, starting ery. We want to make sure that in these areas we “Project Runway,” live-streams, Instagram — all a Bushwick warehouse party. “Younger women are lov- com. Throughout October, 25 with the release of a are really leading the pack. percent of net proceeds will be brand profile film. This cultural phenomena that opened the public access Resellers report that two ing all these [Dior] pieces; “The second one is whether we can attract the donated to The Anne Moore behind-the-scenes look floodgates to fashion’s insider juggernaut. To years ago, shoppers didn’t they were children when these right talent to stay within the company. It’s more Breast Cancer Research Fund. highlights Dr. Perricone’s many, this renders Galliano’s Dior designs relics even consider Galliano’s Dior A Galliano-era Dior bag that sold were designed. I think with

of a softer measure, but an important one.” ■ — JAYME CYK persistent quest to Real The Real of images courtesy All product of a comparatively underground time in fashion bags — a runoff effect of the on The Real Real for $225. fast-fashion there is a sense ►

18 JULY 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM Images Busacca/Getty Larry by Shavitz photograph Illustration by HELENA HAUSS WWD.COM JULY 2015, No. 1 19 20

JULY 2015, No. 1 AccessoriesAgenda consumption.” ■ badge, it’s acoolbadge, versus abadge of ofbadgea different now. type It’s afashion dle bag,according toGarkinos, “represents aSad- stores,masse atdepartment carrying now. Nolonger available forpurchase en thatdrivesaspect market thestreetwear adopters’ taste. relate toatall,”shekids can addedofthe notawords is Lombardo. these “Subtlety said less andmakingamaximum impact,” stones), thesepieces“are like spending thebrand’sscreaming name(ofteninrhine- under $400. popular streetwear’s samepricepointsof working initsfavor, clockinginaround Hood by Air, Off-White andSupreme. “It” insignia-heavy designsby thelikes of price of $1,295. original retail with anestimated resold for $225, A Saddlebag area, Lombard Iadmit,” said. designs hecreated —it’s ofadodgy sort personal stufffromof separatinghis the sonal beliefs,butIthinkthere theidea is designs andtherefore per- his supporting John supporting the Saddlebagis Galliano nowis creative Margiela. at director Maison that ledtotheousterofdesigner, who not apardoning oftheanti-Semiticremarks Dior designsonthesecondhandmarket is chasing aSaddlebagandotherGalliano-era she said. heart,” make my that“breaks apurchase —afact all soldoutbefore she’s hadachanceto but hasyet tonabaSaddlebag,astheyhave value. Lombard hasscoured TheReal Real, mind,” she saidofthestyle’s sentimental in my teens.It’s iconinmy nostalgic this not going DiorSaddlebag tobuymeaRasta ing upthatIcouldn’t afford —my momwas up aSaddlebagonthesecondhandmarket. amongtheMillennialsaimingtosnatch is saidofthebags’intrigue. Bernstein want tolookmore interesting andunique,” of boredom foryoung fashion girls who They alsoplay rare” upthesame“very With Diordesigns many Galliano-era Secondhand Dior’s pricerange also is “I guessyou couldarguethatmeloving According toLombard andothers,pur- are“There somany thingsIwantedgrow- New York Amy photographer Lombard

WWD.COM Dior aestheticbenefitsfrom the with it. Galliano’swith it. more-is-more wear fadmighthave more todo nia vis-à-visanongoing street- According tobrandingcon- that was resold A Galliano-era logo necklace sultant Jennésultant Lombardo, for $95. The return oflogoma- guy’sthis comeback.’” “People willwantto want tochampion overintellectualize as opposed to, ‘I ful andanimated, thing that is color-thing thatis it. Ireallyit. think wanting some- it’s more reac- response to anda tionary shows). Thatledto an as stylist for hisfirst two runway show (sheserved chains for hissecond asked herto design body her palAlexander Wang into jewelry camewhen designs. Herfirst foray model, above, wearing her unequivocal,” saidthe $2,500. and retails from $500to diamonds andpearls, silver, 14-karat gold, Los Angelesfrom sterling 25-piece range ismadein line calledWasson. The launching afinejewelry market, ErinWasson is from one-off to mass designing jewelry ranging O Erin Wasson’s Fine Play Accessories SOURCE: TheNPDGroup Inc./ConsumerTracking Service  “My love for jewelry is more than theprevious 12months, and 18percent of total industry sales for theperiod. Here, theshare of dollarsales. For the12monthsendedinMarch, consumers aged13to 24accounted for $9.7billioninaccessoriessales, 16percent How They Buy After almost a decade 43% eer asWthsSnlse Smallpersonal Sunglasses Watches Bags Jewelry 25% stones again.” with precious metals and said. “And Iwanted to work overquality quantity,” she a lot of peopleshiftingto less andwearing less, like has changedto wanting product, butmy lifestyle seven years, Isawalot of year plusholidayfor keeping a unitstwice collection calledLow Luv. her to design acostume Pascal Mouawad signed jewelry manufacturer edgy aesthetic and take notice of Wasson’s Soon, others beganto line for brand surf RVCA. Maxfield, followed by a exclusive collection for The collection is “Designing 50stock- %4% 9% %7% 7% she laughed. closet, it’s quite boring,” with me. Ifyou lookinmy I’m buyingisgoingto stay I want to know thatwhat in my aesthetic because much more unwavering plified thingsandbecome space onaring. accentuates thenegative a floatingsetting that uses pearls, suchas and even theway Wasson with toggles onnecklaces masculine, industrial feel Fifties. There’s analmost car headlights from the and fences aswell as as windowpanes, doors tectural elementssuch inspired by inpart archi- —MARCY MEDINA “I definitely thinkI’ve sim- accessories Briefs accessories 5% Other retail for $265. black acetate, andwill available inlightpinkor Thegold-foil design is made itinto acollage.” the lace-ringpattern and route. [Instead,] we took but Ididn’t want to gothat ‘Oh, putdiamondsonit,’ design process. “You think, rylike,” Lee saidof the ‘Grace Lee’ andjewel- would make sunglasses “I started to thinkwhat Crown” ring. inspired by Lee’s “Lace featuring lacemetalwork two sunglassstyles November andincludes x Grace Lee, hits retail in be known asSteven Alan collaboration, whichwill eyewear. Thetwo-piece jeweler’s first foray into collection —thefine (both above) onanoptical orated withSteven Alan O Team Up Lee andAlan EYE SPY  Grace Lee hascollab- — LAUREN MCCARTHY Luggage

Illustration: Artist Name

Wasson photograph by Jenna Greene; Alan by John Aquino; Lee by Diego Zaks

Photograph by George Chinsee EDITED BY ARTHUR ZACZKIEWICZ Textiles Winds Buffet Cross By By global tradeto MadeinUSA. from willfocusonissues industry At key NewYork tradeshows, the Markets ARTHUR FRIEDMAN Agenda WWD.COM

JULY 2015, No. 1

21 22 JULY 2015, No. 1 REGISTER New York, NY Javits ConventionCenter July 21 www.TexworldUSA.com TODAY

WWD.COM í 23,2015 N Tricia Carey Pavilion atTexworld willhave more Fibers,saidtheLenzing at Lenzing ness development teamfordenim already source intheU.S. percent saidthey ofthe companies U.S. inthenext years two and80 sourcing by valueorvolume inthe 39 percent saidtheyplantoincrease Fashion about Association, Industry released lastmonthfrom theU.S. inthecity.facturing revival oftextile andapparel manu- the Embroidery Studiowilldiscuss andNY ion DesignersofAmerica opment Corp.,ofFash- Council New York EconomicDevel- City NYC,” where executives from the a seminaratTexworld on“Madein at willbediscussed suppliers. This nicheproductswithnimble craft to control andtheability quality many firmslookingforfastturns, alsocomesintoplayfacturing for largest market at$4.63 billion. shipments. Mexico represented the group, accountingfor33percent of senting thelargest export product million in2014, repre- withfabrics apparel 3percent increased to$592 gained asaviablesourcing alternative. the Western Hemisphere, includingtheU.S., has such asVietnam andIndiagrew theirshare and at 39percent in2014, while itsAsianneighbors China’s market share ofU.S. wasstagnant imports U.S. showed InternationalTrade Commission that Blasio. “We are these committedtosupporting of NewYorkers,” saidNewYork Mayor Billde dollars inannual wages andemploying thousands economy, toourcity’s vital generating billionsof annually. furnishings, represents investments billion of$1.2 rawfabrics, materials,yarns,apparel and home Theindustry,ment. which producers includes of 2 percent ofthenation’s manufacturingemploy- ing withmore than230,000 workers, representing nation’s employers mostimportant inmanufactur- for thecountry’s textile industry, stilloneofthe SpinExpoUnica, andLineapelle. USA, Première NewYork, Vision Kingpins,Milano fabric, sourcing andapparel tradefairsTexworld as theygatherhere theweek ofJuly 20forthe Made intheUSA executives are facing allissues trade policy, of importance andtheincreasing Tricia Carey,Tricia ofthebusi- director In asurvey ofbusinessexecutives The revival ofU.S. textile manu- The ITCreport saidU.S. exports oftextiles and “New York’s fashion anddesignindustriesare Organizers notedthatNewYork thehub is But areport lastweek from the ora ofmillsfrom thecountry. SpinExpo, willfeature apleth- Apparel Sourcing, alongwith and itscompanionInternational bitions suchasTexworld USA andexhi-force inthesector they continue tothrive.” andensuringthatindustries China is stilladominant China is cific PartnershipandU.S.cific debate over theTrans-Pa- against theeuro, ongoing the strengthofdollar inChina, doing business time. plicated andcom- ing atacrucial YC Textile Week launch- is The growing costof Brooklyn. Franklin Street, Expo Center, 79 July 21-23, Brooklyn Spinexpo Center. Javits Convention July 21-23, JacobK. Apparel Sourcing and International Texworld USA tan Pavilion. July 21-22, Metropoli- Lineapelle ington Street. July 21-22, 550Wash- Kingpins Show July 21-22, Pier 92. New York Première Vision Center. Javits Convention July 20-22, JacobK. Milano Unica Glance At a Messe Frankfurt America North Kristy Meade that it’s going to dowell.” economy andthinking Theyareit. lookingatour much of wantto beapart them andthattheyvery the U.S. to important is “People are recognizing with 130textile firms,”Albinisaid.“Itwassuc- Pavilion attheJavits center. itsfirstNewYork staging is editionattheRiver onereason thefabricfair strength ofthedollaris to $1.11, compared with$1.36. the Atlantic. Inthelastyear, theeuro hasdropped more shows, exhibitors andattendeesfrom across compared withEurope andtheeuro drawing is India, Taiwan andColombia. separate pavilions from forcompanies Pakistan, U.S. area. millsintheLenzing There willalsobe U.S. pavilion forthefirsttime,”separatefrom the number ofTurkish exhibitors. We’ll have asmall ipated before,” she said.“We have doublethe fromcompanies countriesthathave notpartic- sourcing strategy. Center, saidtheshows theindustry’s reflect wider Sourcing Show attheJacob K.Javits Convention Texworld USA andtheInternational Apparel whichproducing is America, North Frankfurt Korea andTaiwan. from theU.S., withthebalancefrom China,South U.S. edition—ofthe27exhibitors, millsthis 10are

“A fewyears ago, we went to[Shanghai]China presidentMilano Unica Silvio Albinisaidthe The strength oftheU.S. economy andthedollar “We are getting exhibitors and higher-quality Meade, group showKristy director forMesse ,

Group show director, foothold intheU.S., crossing the is but hasbeenchallenged findinga ayarnshowestablished inShanghai organizer ofSpinExpo, which has that it’s going todowell.” ing atoureconomy andthinking Theyare ofit. look-want tobeapart to themandthattheyvery much are recognizing theU.S. important is attractive toU.S. companies.” making European more fabrics akey against thedollaris factor weakness oftheeurosaid, “The show manager atPremière Vision, destination.” it wastheseventh-largest export for2014,France. Incomparison, afterGermany and most important thethird became fabrics for Italian months of2015, theU.S. market favorabledollar is —inthefirsttwo theeurorate between andthe European countries.Theexchange especially compared withmany market in goodAmerican is shape, market like The theUnited States. more sophisticated important, cally moment togo toamore strategi- cessful, sowe thoughtitwasthe Karine Van Tassel, founderand Texworld’s Meade said,“People Guglielmo Olearo, international

Carey photograph by John Aquino talking abouthowtalking create premium can products from Supima,theWoolmark Co., andLenzing Power ofPremium Products”withexecutives example, panelsinclude“Adding Value —the attheshows. ofdiscussion topics ofthemarketingwill bepart formany brandsand thanever,more important organizersagreed, and ance, aswell asfiberandfabricinnovation, are much topresent intheUSA finally is recognized.” lot tous,asitshows thatwhat we have so struggled they couldnot‘notgo,’” meansa she said.“This key buyers andthereply we received wasthat RiverEast tosetupat theBrooklyn Expo Center. As part of the seminar series atTexworld, oftheseminarseries As part for compli- andsocial Issues suchassustainability “Before makingthemove, we questioned the TO LIFE COMES FASHION HERE premierevision-newyork.com PIER 92 July 21-222015 #wearepremierevision “Future ofFashion.” ■ a more panelonnothinglessthanthe eclectic 92.Chatelier atPier Butit hasalsoputtogether fashion SabineLe director organized by deputy PVwillagainfeature itstrendlections, seminars ProjectDenim.” ity “Denim Makes theShape”and“Levi’s Sustainabil- Washington Street willhostseminarssuchas intogarments. panel andwearable technology tiles” willhave experts aboutputtingsolar talking Tex- Inaddition,“Wiring MadeinAfrica. Cotton Textile Exchange, Initiative Cotton theBetter and Options”willfeatureCotton representatives from merchandise, whilevalue-added “Sustainable Not forgetting thefoundationofcreating col- KingpinsNewYorkThe denim-centric at550 Trade Show High-Tech Fabric agers to Paris,” said designers andman- fashion-product companies with uniting high-tech Avantex’s visionof shows. Sourcing Paris USA andApparel existing Texworld Messe Frankfurt’s The show augments ishes andcoatings. well assurprisingfin- and cosmetics as bine nanotechnology materials thatcom- nected fabrics and on intelligent, con- will putaspotlight Exhibition Center, 17 attheLe Bourget slated for Sept. 14to research. fabrics andrelated cated to high-tech fair solelydedi- out anew trade France isrolling Messe Frankfurt “I wanted to bring The Avantex show, DIDERICH into fiber. collagen peptide nology to integrate that usesnanotech- tional-fiber brand of Umorfil, afunc- Camangi, themaker companies, including present around 15 Textile Federation will patents. hold unpublished functions and/or three innovative that have atleast must show fabrics attending Avantex Asia. Companies from Europe and almost 30exhibitors mittee haschosen fair’s selection com- Federation, thetrade by theTaiwan Textile experts appointed Frankfurt. officer of Messe chief executive Michael Scherpe, The Taiwan With thehelpof — JOELLE WWD.COM

JULY 2015, No. 1

23 MarketBriefs EDITEDEDITED BY ALEXBY JEAN BADIA E. PALMIERI AND ALEX BADIA Agenda

QUOTED INNERWEAR “We think Hefty Returns OWhy consumers Top Bras The Explorer managers return merchandise, causes and amount OAccording to innerwear brands, bras that are either SACAI are pro- lost (in billions): sexy or sporty are driving business. Six brands tell WWD fessionals their top-selling bra styles. who should

be able $162 LE MYSTÈRE SOPHIA LACE BRA, $68 “Just as trend research predicted the return of to make gorgeous lace bras, we have been experiencing Defective/poor quality extremely strong sales in our new stunner Sophia, their own which launched in March of this year.” decisions. Jessica Pfister, vice president of Le Mystère This plan isn’t about expanding $99.3 the middle class — it’s about CALVIN KLEIN MODERN COTTON BRALETTE, $28 “Thanks to the success of our #mycalvins social media turning salaried professionals Bought wrong item campaign, our logo product is currently the fast- into clock-watchers. Retailers est-growing category, with the Modern Cotton bralette being one of our most popular items.” believe careers are the path to Kevin Carrigan, global creative director for Calvin Klein platinum, Calvin Klein white label, Calvin Klein Jeans and success, not time clocks.” $88.7 Calvin Klein Underwear David French, senior vice president for government relations at the NRF, reacting to President Obama’s overtime Buyer’s remorse pay proposal. ON GOSSAMER BEAUTIFULLY BASIC LACE BACK PLUNGE, $46 “Our Beautifully Basic Lace Back Plunge encompasses the shift we’ve noticed toward back interest in lingerie. $83.4 This microfiber plunge bra has a pretty lace back with LEMAIRE BALMAIN an adjustable J-hook for racer-back convertibility.” Debby Gedney, president of branded intimates at Komar Better price elsewheree

CHANTELLE UNLINED LUXE SPORT BRA, $72 $64.1 “Chantelle introduced its first high-impact sport bra this year and has had a great response from retailers and customers alike. It marries the respected fit and Gift returns deep sizing of Chantelle along with the current trend of sport luxe leisure wear.” Collections Tiffany Berrier, Chantelle marketing director Paris $62.4 2016

NATORI PLUNGE CONTOUR FEATHERS BRA, $68 Wrong sizing on item “Our best-selling style continues to be the Natori LA LAME Plunge Contour Feathers bra in black. This deep plunge bra is perfect for lower necklines.” Leading Manufacturers Josie Natori, chief executive officer and founder, $28.2 of Stretch Fabrics The Natori Co. Presents an Innovative New Collection Return fraud of Knitted and Woven Fabrics and Trims Made in Europe, USA and Asia $6.1 Spacers • Microfibers • Textures • Metallics BUSINESS TRENDS acquisition of Kraft and then is ripe for consolidation is Laces in Allovers and Galloons • PU/PVC Leather Didn’t match description M&A Deal the $40.8 billion acquisi- housewares. Industry execu- Making Rises tion of CKH & Hutchison tives told Mergermarket that Embroidery: Sequins • Chemical Lace Whampoa by Cheung Kong they expect consolidation Cotton Eyelet • Ribbons $4.6 O Consumer deal-making Holdings accounted for a over the next year as larger Late delivery of item has gotten off to a good large portion of first-half players make acquisitions in Novelty Elastic Trims: Metallics, Reflective, s start in 2015 according to a transactions. order to add to their revenue Adventure travel with the chic explorer Ruffles, and Crochets new Mergermarket report. It isn’t just the food sector growth. Heat Transfer Appliques: Rhinestones, Studs, In the first half of 2015, where there could be a lot Meanwhile, the fashion at its core was the overriding theme Flocks and Gel Wires for Bras global consumer deal size of activity. In the U.S., there apparel sector could see increased 42.8 percent over looks to be opportunity in the an uptick in M&A activity, at the Paris men’s shows. Statement Please Contact Glen Schneer, Vice President the same period last year auto retail space where prof- although the types of deals All other reasons [email protected] • www.lalame.com with deal volume totaling itability is rising. There are would be smaller and involve graphic prints, allover denim looks and $202 billion — the largest 17,000 franchise dealerships, “bolt-on” acquisitions, 132 W. 36th St., 11th Fl., TOTAL gain since 2008. but only 10 percent are pub- according to separate a strong retro sensibility added a fun New York, NY 10018 $642.6 The big jump in deal-mak- lic companies. The industry reports. Ph: 212.921.9770 ing was mostly attributed is highly fragmented, but has “The prices that are being flair to the leisure-inspired season. to two mega deals. opportunity for consolida- paid right now are very Fax: 212.302.4359 SOURCE: IHL Group/OrderDynamics JUNYA WATANABE HAIDER ACKERMANN First, Heinz’s $54 billion tion. Another sector that strong,” said Neal Asbury. By ALEX BADIA

24 JULY 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM JULY 2015, No. 1 25 26 Collections Paris JULY 2015, No. 1

2016 Agenda

WWD.COM DRIES VAN NOTEN OI UTO AETN SAINT LAURENT VALENTINO LOUIS VUITTON on rpi DenimDiaries Going Graphic Silk Souvenirs LOEWE COMME DESGARÇONS GIVENCHY JUUN.J

Ackermann, Watanabe, Balmain, Lemaire, Comme Des Garçons, Van Noten, Givenchy, Vuitton, Saint Laurent and Valentino photographs by Giovanni Giannoni; Sacai, Loewe and Juun.J by Dominique Maître

Gucci by Giovanni Giannoni the opportunity toexpressthe opportunity exactly who you want men’s “Dress give spring2016 collection. can you and flowers embroidered allover theclothesinhis which explained the exotic andrare birds, animals ations, justastheyare “connected tonature,” oftoday’sbut ratherareflection young gener- genderhis isn’t blurring imposing, somethingheis to thelatestfire andandrogyny, ofdandyism said whose men’s wear show lastJanuary addedfuel simply humans. —wefemale are are notdefinitionsofidentity all their oldersiblingsorparents. To them,maleand much than lessfocusedonfirm sexual identity gay marriage, andtheyounger generation is now Caitlyn Jenner; approves theSupreme Court coursing throughout modernlife—BruceJenner is the current trend ofanoverall only part is vibe XVI. Wilde, But BeauOscar Brummel,orLouis Keith Richards —or, going intime, backfurther early Eighties,MichaelJackson, David Bowie or exactly new—thinktheNewRomantics ofthe so observers don’t know whichwhich. is puttingbothsexesoften times ontheirrunways past would have beenconsidered feminine,and thatinthe adding laceorotherembellishments men’s inwithpants, mixingskirts wear allabout, is pushingother is theboundariesofwhat modern sportswear thatare firmly masculine—while the men’s wear tradition—suits,jackets, pantsand market remains centered onwhat hasbecome ofthe figure Onepart outwhich windtocatch. of men’s wear to —anddesignersare struggling whirling cyclones conflicting through theworld Men’s gets onJuly settobegin 13, there are designers feel.AsNewYork Fashion Week: dresses. —who werecounterparts wearing or skirts T-shirts rubbedshoulders withtheirstraight New York? Play in Dandy Man Will the A Alessandro Michele, creative directorofGucci not On theonehand,NewDandy Manis Well,Confused? ifyou are, justthinkhow runways inEurope. silhouettes ruledthe gender-bending adornments and Overly embellished models dressed injeansand men andwomen while gay mingled withtransgender straightmodels lections, Men’s theParis during Col- inthewee hours after party t thepacked DiorHomme Gucci Some are joining it, while others insist it is justa Some are whileitis joiningit, othersinsist New Dandy Mantrend comingoutofEurope. designersadmittheyare awareAmerican ofthe streetwear —withadistinctively preppy — twist centeredcreating onsportswear collections and New York men’s shows aswell. known Long for wears heavily gold-embroidered safarijackets. show, inhis —albeit, look like aguy” onewho with Rousteing tellingWWD, “Ithinkaguyshould firmly nixed any ideaofjumpingonthetrend, at DiorHomme andOlivier Rousteing at Balmain there Van were Kris definitecamps. two Assche all over theEuropean men’s runways forspring, to be,”hesaid. and using other fabrics willmakeand usingotherfabrics itinteresting.” buttoned-up andbody-conscious inmen’s lately excited aboutthetrend because we’ve beenso overbeen more orlessimportant theyears. I’m allthetime,” hesaid.“It’sbeen ontheperiphery with printedsilktops andflowy andit’s fabrics “It seemsretro, butwe saw intheNineties this seeninmen’sstyles wear thelastfew seasons. pajama trend —sheer burnoutsandother shirts, like —which silkinshirts follows onfrom the traditionally consideredfabrics more feminine, creative using saidheis ofPerry director Ellis, Veneta are doingforspring.MichaelMaccari, European brandssuch asVersace andBottega embellishments thaninandrogyny, what which is beingusedandinthe offabrics more inthetypes Michael Maccari allthetime.” periphery and it’s beenonthe tops andflowy fabrics with printed silk saw intheNineties this “It seemsretro, butwe fad —andonethatisn’t thatcommercial. ties-SoCal inmy said spring2016collection,” John Varvatos, whose inspiration always comes That division is likelyThat division is toplay outduringthe But even andandrogyny asdandyism were from themusic world andwhose signature David agreed, Hart pointingtoguys like Nick style haslongbeenbasedonadandy-esquestyle rock ’n’ roller. “From 1973to1975, bandslike a lot of time in Los Angeles’a lotoftimeinLos Laurel Canyon MacandTheRollingFleetwood Stonesspent Michele thattheyouth oftoday aren’t about “There’s abitofBritish-dandy-meets-Seven- definitely aKeith Richards ofthe vibeinparts and really brought intheirinfluences.There’s ration. “He is beautifulration. “He is andbizarre andhas dandyism andandrogynydandyism —Bowie —asinspi- collection.” graphic prints—allofwhich willbepresent wears agreat dealofcolorandgeometrics and a unique way ofputtinglookstogether. He one ortheother; they’re justhanging.” butare “muchtypes more aboutnotdeclaring focusing on“male”versus “female”stereo- “andro-gene.” Theyagree theirstyle with call Brown foundersDanielSilver andSteven Cox other British rockother British iconandposterboy for cofounder ofTimoWeiland, pointedtothat and willdosoagainforspring2016. Duckie feminine elementsintotheirmen’s wear, Plokhov andDuckieBrown have longmixed saidEckstein. in ourspring2016collection,” Many centered designersseedandyism Alan Eckstein, design director and Alan Eckstein,designdirector American designerssuch as AlexandreAmerican ,

Perry Ellis WWD.COM

JULY 2015, No. 1 ►

27 Johnny Depp Beau Briefs Brummell

David THE SCHEDULE DESIGNER WORLD CHART Bowie Browne’s Summertime Stats Men’s Now that the summer is in full swing, thoughts naturally turn to New Venture beaches, pools — and swimsuits. And while women’s swimwear Shows ¬ Thom Browne is spotlight- sales still dwarf men’s, the combined figure for men’s and boys’ ing his tailoring expertise. is still substantial: $2.78 billion. At a The designer has estab- lished an in-house tailoring Swimwear facility and brought veteran Market 70% Glance tailor Rocco Ciccarelli Share Women’s swimwear Louis XVI in-house to spearhead the Runway development of the hand- ANSA/Corbis made tailored clothing. Cic- MONDAY, JULY 13 THURSDAY, JULY 16 Liberty Fairs carelli has been the tailor for New York Men’s Day: 10:30 NYFW: Men’s: 8:30 a.m. to 8 Monday, July 20 and Tuesday, Browne since the company a.m. to noon and 4:30 to 6:30 p.m. at Skylight Clarkson Sq., July 21, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; started. He showcases “old- p.m. at Industria Superstud- 550 Washington Street Wednesday, July 22, 9 a.m. 4% school” tailoring skills that Boys‘ ios, 775 Washington Street to 4 p.m. rival Savile Row, but he also 17% and 356 West 12th Street Pier 94, 711 12th Avenue Men’s Trade Shows “understands the sensibility 10% NYFW: Men’s Opening Event: Quentin Michael Lord Oscar of my clothing,” said Browne, Girls‘ 6 to 8:30 p.m. at Amazon Project New York MRket Crisp Jackson Byron Wilde who will showcase the cloth- Imaging Studio, 35 Kent Ave- Sunday, July 19 and Monday, Sunday, July 19, and Monday, ing during a “conceptual art nue, Williamsburg, Brooklyn. July 20, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Tues- July 20, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Tues- installation” on July 14. day, July 21, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. day, July 21, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. The collection will retail for TUESDAY, JULY 14 Jacob K. Javits Convention Jacob K. Javits Convention around 15 to 20 percent more NYFW: Men’s: 9:30 a.m. to 9 Center, 655 West 34th Street Center, 655 West 34th Street Dandies p.m. at Skylight Clarkson Sq., than the ready-to-wear line with suits starting at $4,800, 550 Washington Street Capsule Agenda Average price Average price Through sport coats at $3,500 Monday, July 20: 10 a.m. to 7 Monday, July 20 and Tuesday, for a man’s for a woman’s and top coats at $4,000. Global WEDNESDAY, JULY 15 p.m.; Tuesday, July 21, 10 a.m. July 21, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. swimsuit swimsuit The Years Made-to-measure will be 25 annual swimwear NYFW: Men’s: 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. to 6 p.m. Jacob K. Javits Convention percent above those prices. $15.62 industry revenue $24.26 at Skylight Clarkson Sq., 550 Basketball City, 299 South Center, 655 West 34th Street Washington Street Street — JEAN E. PALMIERI Source: NPD Group $13.25 billion Adam Salvador

Ant Dali Carlos Monteiro by Illustration by Barry King/WireImage; Valentino by Hulton Archive/Getty Images; Bowie by Gijsbert Hanekroot/Redferns/Getty Images; Flynn by Gijsbert Hanekroot/Redferns/Getty by Images; Bowie Archive/Getty Hulton by Valentino Barry King/WireImage; by

Errol Rudolph Flynn Valentino

Waterhouse and Leon Bridges as dandies because European shows I’ve seen look like art installa- European men are willing to do. That’s not what of their nostalgic way of dressing. “I think we will tions. I’m sure in New York we will see a continued American fashion is about, designers say. definitely see more elements of dandyism than influence of activewear. I am focused on a softer, “New York and America have a narrow history we’ve seen in the past,” said Hart of the New York minimal style this season — you won’t see any of fashion and when you look at the history, collections. “I think we will see more in terms of dresses.” sportswear comes to mind. But in the last couple hats, pockets squares, ties and accessories.” Hart Shimon Ovadia of Ovadia & Sons agreed, say- of seasons, it’s been sportswear mixed with street himself looked to the Bauhaus movement during ing, “Let’s be real — most guys aren’t wearing the and luxe. That could and should be part of Ameri- the Thirties for inspiration, including artists such fashion-forward looks you see on the runway. New ca’s strength,” said Robert Geller. as László Moholy-Nagy, Marcel Breuer, Franz York is confident, cool, sharp, sporty and tailored “We’re part of the group of designers who have Ehrlich, Lyonel Feininger and Johannes Itten, “all mixed into one. As New Yorkers, this season is clothes you can wear every day and are a little of whom could have been considered dandies of all about the city. We’re bringing the energy and more practical,” said Michael Bastian who, iron- the era.” coolness of New York to our clothing.” ically, will show a capsule collection of women’s But while some U.S. designers are injecting ele- While American men have become more fash- wear based on his men’s designs. “It comes from ments of the dandy into their spring collections, ion-conscious and aware, the question in the end our Yankee mentality.” others are firmly against the trend. In their view, is how far they are willing to push the edge of the And, in his view, it’s nothing American design- it’s un-American — if not uncommercial. envelope. It’s fine to wear slimmer suits, add a ers should be afraid to offer. “That’s our specialty “It’s interesting what’s happening in Europe; pocket square à la Don Draper and inject more and there’s nothing to be ashamed of,” Bastian it’s very directional, but you won’t see a lot of color; it’s another to don a lace-trimmed shirt or added of American practicality. “Somebody has men wearing it,” said Todd Snyder. “A few of the even throw a skirt over a pair of pants, as many to do it, and that’s us.” ■ Crisp photograph by Simon Dack/Getty Images; Dali by Bettmann/Corbis; Wilde by Corbis; Ant by Peter Still/Getty Images; Jackson Still/Getty Peter Corbis; Ant by Wilde by Bettmann/Corbis; Images; Dali by Simon Dack/Getty by Crisp photograph

28 JULY 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM JULY 2015, No. 1 29 APPAREL & RETAIL CEO SUMMIT

NEW YORK CITY 27—28 OCTOBER 2015

  
   

SAT JULY 4 Rosetta Getty & Miu Miu Parties 32 summits.wwd.com Dree Hemingway /  /"!$$%+)&0!( !#) !&%
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FAIRCHILD SUMMITS WWD.COM JULY 2015, No. 1 31 & EVENTS Americans in Paris. And Tuscany. Maggie Gyllenhaal and Kiernan Shipka were among those spending July 4 abroad. Photographs by Dominique Maître and Lodovico Colli di Felizzano

The beauty of the Pike, who’s been on what she SAT Tuscan countryside, the described as an extended mater- JULY authentic charm of a nity break, had just returned from 4 16th-century villa, olive Shanghai. “My partner actually groves, cypress and oak speaks Chinese and last year I forests, and a crew of friends with gave myself a Chinese name, ‘Pei notable last names and impres- Chun Hua’… A lot of Chinese ac- sive résumés. If you’re Rosetta tors give themselves a Western Getty, that’s how you celebrate name, so I thought, why not do Independence Day. the opposite?” “We are always here for the Meanwhile, Arquette, a long- Fourth of July and we always cel- time friend of Getty’s, had been ebrate, so I decided to make it a on a grand tour of Italy. “We have bigger celebration. I’m in Italy for been traveling through Italy for a at least six weeks every summer few weeks — Taormina, Apulia and so Italy is my home away from Positano,” she says. Still, work home,” says Getty of the party was on her mind. she cohosted with Farfetch. The “I’ve just directed a video for designer was at the home away a single from Balthazar’s new from home of Sting and Trudie album,” she says, referring to Styler, Il Palagio — a villa located Getty’s husband, adding that south of Florence — and she she’s recently signed up to be a was surrounded by the likes of voice in the upcoming “Toy Story Rosamund Pike, Patricia Arquette, 4.” “I’m very excited about doing a Dree Hemingway, Tali Lennox and cartoon. I’m also working on ‘CSI: Mia Moretti, who DJ’d. Cyber,’ which is, of course, a ►

Balthazar and Kiernan Shipka Rosetta Getty in Miu Miu. Rosamund Pike

great global franchise — and to be Dianna Agron, Amber Valletta the first female lead in a ‘CSI’ is and Stacy Martin, the face of the awesome.” new fragrance. In Paris, those legendary party Before the show started, animals Kate Moss and Naomi Elizabeth Olsen was taking in the Peter Sarsgaard with Maggie Campbell were toasting the holi- clublike scene. Gyllenhaal in Miu Miu. day with Miu Miu, which showed “It’s really cool. I like this energy its resort collection during a a lot, because I feel like it’s more party to launch its first fragrance. casual and easy,” she says. “It For the occasion, the Conseil doesn’t feel stiff. I’m excited to Economique, Social et Environ- see how it’s going to change from mental was transformed into a nightclub to a fashion show.” Amber Heard what was billed as “Miu Miu Club.” Looking at the chockablock in Prada. Neon lights flashed, margaritas room, she muses: “Are people flowed and tech-house music going to get out of the way, is the blared for a crowd that included question.” Marc Jacobs, Maggie Gyllenhaal, — ALESSANDRA TURRA AND MILES SOCHA Amber Heard, Kiernan Shipka,

Mia Moretti

Marc Jacobs and Fabio Naomi Campbell, Franca Natasha Poly Zambernardi with Kate Sozzani and Bianca Dianna Agron and Elizabeth in Miu Miu. Moss in Prada. Tali Lennox Brandolini d’Adda. Olsen in Miu Miu.

32 JULY 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM JULY 2015, No. 1 33 By TAYLOR HARRIS Photographs by EMILY HOPE Digital tech: BERK DOGAN Styled by LUIS CAMPUZANO Fashion assistant: KAYANA CORDWELL Grooming by LOSI at MARTIAL VIVOT Arts & Culture SALON/HONEY ARTISTS To most passersby, McSorley’s could be mistaken for a hokey er- satz of an authentic Irish pub. But students of the genre know that the joint on the ground floor of a brick tenement building occupying an un- remarkable block of the East Village is a fabled institution of New York’s boozing past, proudly holding the title of the oldest bar in the city with an 1854 opening. These days, though, it’s often the last blurry stop of the twentysomething set’s Saturday night bar crawl. “Yeah, I’ve been here,” Austin Stowell chuckles, shaking his head. “Several times.” Despite often being clogged with sloppy Murray-Hill-residing bros, McSorley’s has managed to preserve a commendable amount of its ancestry: the dust-caked bar, the cobwebbed, rickety furniture and a sawdust-carpeted floor. The walls are covered with sepia-colored memorabilia; among the artifacts is an original Wanted poster for John Wilkes Booth and an invitation to the grand opening of the Brooklyn Bridge. It’s also done little variation to its menu. “Last night we were at a Yankee game and I was explaining what this was to my father,” Stowell says. “And I said, ‘Dad, it’s real simple: They’ve got light beer, they’ve got dark beer and they have cheese and crackers. That’s pretty much it.’” Indeed, there are only two types of beer served at McSorley’s — a light ale and a murky dark stout, which Stowell is sipping out of a glass tan- kard. It’s fitting to meet him at a ves- tige of New York’s partying past: He’s the breakout star of “Public Morals,” the new Ed Burns-helmed show that examines another swath of the city’s days of debauchery. Set in 1967, “Public Morals” revolves around a group of plainclothes cops in NYPD’s public morals division tasked with combating all matters of vice: gambling, prostitution, drug possession, etc. But rather than cleaning up the illegal card games and collaring the johns, they protect Nudie Jeans’ them in exchange for bribes, favors cotton shirt. and payouts — real Serpico stuff. As Burns’ character puts it, rather than fight the crime, they regulate it. yourself on tape for this, tonight,’” Stowell, 30, says. “At the end of the Stowell has a string of big projects “We don’t toe the line [between “You can’t control Stowell relays. Back in his hotel room, day, he wants to do the right thing. rolling out. First is Spielberg’s “Bridge right and wrong], we make the line to a lot of it, so you the actor got resourceful — using But with hormones and everything, of Spies,” out in October, in which whatever fits the needs of our situa- all manner of crappy hotel furniture he f--ks up sometimes.” he plays Francis Gary Powers, the tion,” Stowell says. “It’s like, ‘Oh, that’s have to just pray to perch his iPhone. “I dragged the That is one thing Stowell is not American pilot held by the Soviet the line? Well, guess what? I moved nightstand over to put on top of a doing. The son of a retired steelworker Union during the U-2 incident. Early the f--king line, so deal with it.’” to the acting gods coffee table I had in there. That didn’t and a schoolteacher, he grew up the next year, he stars in James Franco’s Burns had been kicking around and let the rest go.” work. Then I got the trash can flipped youngest of three boys in Kensington, next directorial effort, “In Dubious the idea for the show for years (his over — all kinds of stuff.” A meeting in a pretty area in central Connecticut. Battle,” alongside Franco, Josh laughably lengthy title is creator-di- — Austin Stowell New York and a chemistry read later, He studied acting in college and got Hutcherson, Selena Gomez, Bryan rector-producer-writer-lead-actor) he had the part of Sean O’Bannon. his first taste of A-listerdom with a Cranston and Zach Braff. Stone Cold Fox and finally began filming it nearly Sean is impulsive and brash. He supporting role in “Whiplash,” playing Swigging on his beer in the famed two years ago. In May, TNT greenlit has the foolish delusions of impreg- the second-string drummer, a pseudo McSorley’s, Stowell is suitably chilled 10 episodes as part of the network’s nability only afforded to the young, competitor to Miles Teller’s character. out about all of it, though. “With collaboration with Steven Spielberg’s delusions that are only magnified That role also has earned him a cer- [landing parts], you have to realize Meet Austin Stowell, Amblin Television. Spielberg has by the fact that he’s in a position of tain amount of celebrity weekly fasci- it’s so often not up to you,” he says. signed on an as executive producer relative power. “Sean’s a good guy. nation — the magazines have recently “You’ll hear, ‘They want somebody a for the project. The show makes its He was a troubled kid, got sent away been poring over his relationship with little less tall’ or ‘He’s got blue eyes, debut Aug. 25. to boarding school and was put on former “The Vampire Diaries” actress we wanted brown eyes’ or ‘He looks a TV’s Latest Heartthrob Xim voloreh eniminc ilitatur mo Stowell first heard of the part when the right path. He’s got a good heart, Nina Dobrev. little too young.’ You can’t control a lot doloria dollorrStowell, oribusa wearing ndiam, Marc Jacobs’ wool coat. he was shooting in Florida. “My agent but like any young man, he screws up. He should get ready for even more of it, so you have to just pray to the called me and said, ‘You’ve got to put He needs to learn some life lessons,” attention, since after “Public Morals,” acting gods and let the rest go.” ■

34 JULY 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM JULY 2015, No. 1 35 BY ALLY BETKER, ERIK MAZA and MISTY WHITE SIDELL

ILLUSTRATIONS BY They Are . . . STUDIO MUTI Report Card Amber’s Red Hot, Trump’s a Frump From Channing’s bulky look to Ciara’s sinuous one, here are the hits and misses of the week.

DIt’s not a secret DA messy updo DNow that we DThe earrings that his weight fit for a romantic know how he feels seem to be having goes up after his maiden. about immigration, an awkward identity roles end and he’s only one great crisis between obviously not filming mystery remains: classic fine jewelry Heavy eye/pale “Magic Mike 3” D what’s under that and modern ear lip makes sense any time soon. comb-over? cuff. Steer clear of with such a boldly DAt this point he the buffet table colored dress. needs a larger and while you’re DThe articulated neck size for on the menu include the brown- at it, stay away bustier looks like his shirt. The Munching rice Hippy Wrap, “a vegetarian from wearing it could terminate turkey neck is too Manwich,” and vegan nachos. too much blush. someone. The rest apparent. And steer On a Superior “We really just want to make Bordello red is an of the dress, with its DThe overall D clear of red. With super delicious food that’s mostly all-eyes-on-me color iridescent overlay silhouette of ginger hair, that’s a Burger vegan,” says Headley. Emphasis if there ever was and gold tone, the suit is too no-no. could’ve sashayed Spent the Fourth gorging on hot on mostly — the burger does tight and he looks one, yet the demure DHe would benefit out of the Disney dogs and bratwurst? Sorry, there have some dairy. “The rest of uncomfortable. In neckline and soft from a trimmer suit. princess collection. was a better option: the veggie the menu is accidentally vegan.” fact, he sort of looks ruffles keep it in the We know he doesn’t burger by former Del Posto pastry The culinary teams behind like an armoire. ladylike zone. chef Brooks Headley at New York’s neighbors Hearth and Ivan have an athletic DThe light gray build, but a more Superiority Burger. It may be made Ramen have already stopped suit works well with youthful suit might with only vegetables, legumes and by, but more importantly so has the skinny tie and help him get some grains, but it tastes like the real Helen Mirren. If it’s good enough the one-inch shirt new gigs now that thing. Other wholesome items for a dame… cuff showing is the Macy’s and NBC perfect sartorial dropped him. touch. Letting It All Hang Out For a while now, women like Chrissy Teigen and Miley Cyrus B A- D C have been waging a “Free the Nip” campaign against Instagram’s draconian nudity Channing Tatum Amber Heard Donald Trump Emilia Clarke policy, becoming in the process the new suffragettes of the Internet. The boys are starting to /WireImage; DLet’s call this look DOne of the DThe flower DMr. Pretty Boy Partying on Images Whitby/Getty P. Tim join in on the fun, if sometimes “natural beauty advantages of crown moment is can do no wrong inadvertently. The likes of Olivier enhancement.” being full-figured long gone (RIP) but with a bit of facial Rousteing (Teigen’s pal), Scott Easy hair, soft is that it helps with here it’s somewhat hair and a perfectly the High Seas Studenberg, Mert Alas and James makeup and classic face volume and tolerable. She coiffed hairstyle. Franco are notorious for posting diamond studs — no hides wrinkles. If needed to add But the shiny light the kind of titillating shirtless big visible tricks. he weren’t running some innocence to gray suit doesn’t selfies more commonly found for president, he the look — nothing do much for his on dating apps. Last week, Marc could grow a beard does that better complexion. DThe dress also to create neck than looking like a The fashion set has found its sea legs, trading Jacobs raised the stakes when he that? Maybe it’s the beginning of DA two-piece enhances what distinction. garden nymph. accidentally posted a naked selfie a whole new crusade: Free the God gave her. He navy suit would summer fetes on land for those on the open that revealed far more than the Tip. Just be careful, though: make was particularly DHe should be a more designer intended. And, you have sure you’re not running a publicly generous around avoid bright glamorous to wonder, what’s so bad about traded company. the bustline. The colors. A dark choice and water around New York — Mr Porter recently DThe naked-dress 360 cleavage navy tie would work with his decrease the lives on. When will piercing blue threw a party aboard a docked schooner could’ve been this trend go away? curbed but the slip amount of attention eyes. drawn to his body. We wish something in TriBeCa; the nautically minded fashion Chugging a silhouette is elegant more substantial DHe needs and rescues the DDressing for his was adjoining the to release the dress’ impression body type is hard. front and back flaps fastener in the company Saint James plans to charter a New Red Bull of sheerness from And he’s doing the back of the vest. New York’s creative class is so she was less, being vulgar. best he can, but a well, naked. We know he has the cruise on the Hudson, and the model Linda drinking Club-Mate, a highly perfectly pressed perfect physique caffeinated soda from Germany suit and a sparkly but it’s too tight and that’s shaping up to be the new shirt can help. is pulling across his Vojtová hosted a model-heavy brood on one of demimonde’s Red Bull. Popular At least the brown chest. with Berlin computer coders in the lace-ups add a nice Manhattan by Sail’s clippers for her birthday. early Aughts, the drink was later touch. appropriated by the city’s rave Salvatore Ferragamo almost hosted cocktails scene, who preferred to spike it with alcohol for effect. Now, it’s aboard the sleek Solleone yacht before bad stocked in the local offices of Facebook, Kickstarter, Gawker B C C B Media and bodegas all over the weather intervened. Up next: the Brooklyn Lower East Side and Brooklyn. Early adopters, though, got theirs Ciara Chris Christie Karlie Kloss Matt Bomer Ciara by Jason LaVeris/FilmMagic; Christie by Scott Olson/Getty Images; Kloss by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for amfAR; Bomer by amfAR; Bomer by Images for Boyko/Getty Victor Images; Kloss by Olson/Getty Scott by Christie Jason LaVeris/FilmMagic; by Ciara Barge Bar opening in Greenpoint this summer. at the arty dive bar Beverly’s. Han Myung by Clarke Splash News/Corbis; by Trump Duval/FilmMagic; Fred by Images; Heard Whitby/Getty P. Tim by photograph Tatum

36 JULY 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM JULY 2015, No. 1 37  
  

 FEATURES 

 
40 A First for Fendi: Karl’s Big Week Karl Lagerfeld is showing a full couture fur collection for Fendi — marking the first time a designer   is showing two high collections during one couture week. 44 Sir Philip Unleashed Catching up with Sir Philip Green, Britain’s        








merchant billionaire, as he celebrates the 10th anniversary of London’s Fashion Retail Academy. 48 Donna Karan: To Be Continued The designer talks about life after Donna Karan International, and her emotional departure from the house she founded. 52 Blooming Bold Resort collections get a lift from bright botanical motifs. 





 

   



THE POWER OF CONTENT





 


 
 





   Illustration by JORDY VAN DEN NIEUWENDIJK A FIRST FOR FENDI KARL’S BIG WEEK

Clockwise from left: Never one to take himself too seriously, Advertising campaign for a Karl Lagerfeld once deadpanned: “I’m not very unisex fur collection, featuring child gifted for hairdos.” He was referring to his signature model Silvia Venturini Fendi; snow-white ponytail, which he has worn since the A Mappamondo fur from fall 1978; mid-Seventies and which has The fall 1969 ad become visual shorthand for campaign; The fall 1968 ad campaign. the designer's personage. Yet when it comes to the hair of animals, Lagerfeld is a magician and a scientist, continually exploring new “I have these kind techniques and pushing the boundaries of design with one of visions and of the world’s most precious — I put them on yet still divisive — materials. Still restless and driven paper, it’s very after half a century designing bizarre. And this fur and ready-to-wear at Fendi, Lagerfeld will unveil his most even improves expansive experiment yet with age.” during Paris Couture Week: an haute fourrure show for the Roman house, putting fur on fashion’s most prestigious stage — and securing Lagerfeld, the couturier at Chanel for more than 30 years, another coup: the only designer to stage two high-fashion shows in one week. Fendi is making a big deal of the milestone, not only mounting the show, but publishing a box-bound Steidl tome, “Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld,” packed with the German designer’s colorful sketches. Left: Karl Lagerfeld at the Palazzo Eyes fixed on fashion’s Della Civiltà Italiana, Fendi’s new headquarters in Rome. Above horizon, Lagerfeld is practically from top: A sketch from fall 2013; The Labyrinth fur from fall 1979; allergic to anniversaries and The Drapery fur, fall 1986. backward glances. In a wide- ranging conversation, he shared his vast knowledge of fur production and design, strong opinions about

► men in mink and the virtues of sketching by hand. Fendi of courtesy photograph Lagerfeld

WWD.COM JULY 2015, No. 1 41 A FIRST FOR FENDI

ill haute fourrure We did a few fantasy coats at workrooms to work with. I see it but I think fur covers can be very become a perma- Chloé: three or four little coats in like another material: velvet or beautiful. nent part of the rabbit in the Sixties because that fur, it’s the same thing. It’s just Do you think it looks good on couture week? was the trend of the moment, but another technique, it’s something W men, or should they approach I don’t know you can’t call this fur. When the else, as tweed is also something with caution? if we will do it every season. You Fendi sisters asked me to work else. My process of thinking is very It depends who you are, know, it’s not on my contract, so I with them, I said, “You know I strange because I have these kind if don’t know. I’m too busy perhaps don’t like the bourgeois mink, but of visions and I put them on paper, you’re Liberace, maybe to do it all the time. And there’s a if you do a fantasy line called Fendi it’s very bizarre. And this even it’s OK, but I’m not too problem because there are hardly Fun…” because that was the idea improves with age. crazy for fur on men. any skins left, you know. at the beginning. The double-F was As a lining in cold countries, why Was fur very fusty and bourgeois I remember 30 years ago, we Fendi Fun. That’s how it started not? Although they can make when you started? made a finale with 20 sable coats. and two years later I did every- you look fat. Very soft, beautiful If you want to do that today, you’re thing and the double-F became It was horrible, horrible, coats — I think they are feminine. lucky if you can make one or the logo of the house. Today it’s because remember even in the There were too many rock stars two or three because most of the important to have a logo because Seventies and still in the Eighties, and people in the Sixties who used animals are not hunted anymore. some people from the other coun- especially in Italy, they had all to wear fur, and if you look at the It’s quite difficult to do tries can’t read the name. I cannot floor-length mink coats that were pictures today, it’s very tacky. But read Chinese names, but every- really not beautiful and very heavy you know, in the Sixties, it was high fashion because to wear. everything made in body can identify a logo. That’s anything goes. why logos are so important. the past hardly exists Did you ever meet a pelt you didn’t Fur has roared back to popularity like? anymore, so we have to invent Does fur tend to follow the same in recent years. How do you account Oh, many. I never liked panther unbelievable techniques and mix trends as rtw? for that? Is it just a fashion trend, or because I thought it was stiff. I them with feathers and other There are different degrees in do you think there’s something else even never liked it printed on fur; things like that because the world terms of fashion, so it depends. at play? has changed. We are not in the The high-fashion things can be, I also never liked all You know, trends come and Eighties anymore. in a way, more eccentric than the things that were go, so there are no rules. For the you would show at ready-to-wear, forbidden, not because they moment, people like fur, but they Is the scarcity of fine fur that because you know, I’m very are forbidden, because I don’t like fur as a fantasy, not as a status serious? much against ready-to- like them, I don’t think they are symbol. It’s not something you buy They’re rarer and rarer. That wear shows when you flattering. My favorite furs are sable to show how rich you are, or as an means the activists don’t have and ermine: ermine because it’s so investment. That I hate. But to be too angry because there see things you’ll never see in the shops. I hate liquid and sable because it’s warm. that kind of coat they don’t really is less and less and it becomes They are the most flattering furs. make anymore. more and more expensive. The creativity for nothing, sable coat today is only for the press, What are some of the wackiest Which women, past or present, expensive, like people I think that is the oppo- experiments you’ve tried with fur? wore fur with the greatest panache? site of what fashion is Oh yes, trying 20 different furs Look at the old issues of Vogue, pay less for a house together cut into strips and knitted You don’t fur was the chicest than for a sable coat. supposed to do. and things like this. I did that in the have to be low-commercial for thing in the world, It’s unbelievable! Nineties, but I don’t remember that that, because I don’t think my col- especially in the Twen- The techniques I invented in much. lections are so lowly commercial. Don’t ask me too ties and Thirties, when the Seventies and Eighties to make much about the past. fur coats light and with expensive I think they’re just right for the they used a lot of fur can now be done with less moment, if I could be pretentious. For me personally, it’s ermine — nothing to do with about doing and it’s expensive furs. Do you see haute fourrure as what they did later. At that time, something innate to Fendi and Rome not about what I have the fur was much more beautiful Is the creative process for fur — in the same way that couture is done. I hate anniversaries. and lighter. In the Forties and the same as rtw or couture? Fifties, they were just horrible, stiff closely linked to Paris? So you rely on the atelier to Yes, because I’m one of the and old. Fur for me is some- interpret your sketches and technical few left who sketches everything In the Twenties, fur was treated because in requirements? himself, and when you come to thing Italian like a material. There was a French France, I never do fur. There are When they cannot do it exactly the studio, you can see that the fur designer named Max Leroy, not many great fur people here, the way I thought, they find photos taken of the dresses and and he did beautiful furs. There is and their technique is basic com- another way. It’s a very creative the sketches are the same. I’m able a very beautiful old catalogue that pared to what I’m used to. way to work together. I’m always to put it on paper in 3-D nearly, so exists of sketches by a man called they can read the sketch and show very close to the workroom. Do you prefer designing winter Eduardo Benito. And Madeleine me toiles that are perfect. I don’t It’s not only the idea, it’s also furs or summer furs? Vionnet did beautiful furs. know how others do with comput- the technique and finding the right Summer furs, they hardly exist, ers or draping materials; I don’t do people to do it, because there Where did the idea come for those but now furs are also bought by that, I have a vision and I put it on are not so many people left, and fun and frivolous fur bag bugs, and the hot countries. They put a paper and they translate. trained well enough. You cannot especially the Karlito one that looks Computer sketches I don’t even the air-conditioning in do this with amateurs. like you? look at: they all look the same — their houses to under We do samples, we try to work Because I’m a this is the end of a personal style. zero and then they can out things together, to mix, to cartoon, my dear. I’m By contrast, sketching is wear the fur. I don’t think make it look completely different, easy, everybody can recognize like writing — you have too much about seasons you know, because the great thing me, and it’s fine. I can’t even cross your special handwrit- because it’s warm and cold in the about fur today is that the street anymore, anywhere, world, in different moments. ing and if you sketch with the it mostly doesn’t look for all the tourists, all the selfies. It’s unbelievable, I don’t know hand it’s always better. In working with fur, is the fabric like fur anymore. I even how it happened — it’s so strange, Also, I explain to the atelier what limiting in any way and does this like the allure of mixing fake fur this fame thing. But as my for- I want. My sketches also come with limitation inspire you? with real fur. Nothing should be technical explanations. I’m very No, no, no. I don’t forbidden. tune-teller told me when I was professional, you know. young, she said: “For you, it will want to sound preten- Have you ever worn fur yourself? really start when it’s finished for Had you designed anything tious, but I invented In the Sixties, but the others.” It’s quite true. ■ with fur before you started working a lot with furs so I can never after. My house is for Fendi? handle that as long as I have good too heated for a sable bed cover, At right, a sketch from fall 1988.

42 JULY 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM The owner of Topshop is celebrating a decade of his Fashion Retail Academy — and remains as outspoken as ever. By Samantha Conti Photographs by Pip SIR PHILIP UNLEASHED 46 JULY 2015, No. 1 British FashionBritish Council’s program for NewGen — othersinclude Topshop’s sponsorship ofthe totheretail industry Queen in2006for services helped Green toearnaknighthoodfrom the internships atthecompany. andofferingthem London middle schoolsinNorth to theyounger athighschoolsand ones,lecturing atArcadia and hasevenfurther speaking begun owntakes studentsunderhis wingtotrainthem to buyandhow themachineworks.” He regularly butwho andtaught needstobeeducated it, how “somebody who’s 18andhasagreat eye andgets adding thebuzzforhimcomesfrom finding that’s therightyellow, therightblue,”says Green, achievements. economy,lion, fortheBritish grandest among his has generated mil- 128millionpounds,or$201 as doublecream, considerstheacademy, which a GianfrancoFerré suitandwhite asluscious shirt growth. accommodate further building willbeexpanded andrefurbished to employed, summer, andthis thecentralLondon graphic design.Some90percent are ofgraduates such asfashion retail, merchandising, buyingand than 5,000 studentsinfields sponsors, andhastrainedmore and Experian amongitsmain Spencer, Next, F&F atTesco the academy countsMarks & Circus. the Topshop flagship inOxford officeafewminutesat his from from behindablackglasstable and offwe went,” says Green they putin10millionpounds, Weit. putin10millionpounds, earmarked, sowe agreed tobuy in five minutes. meeting ofyour career,” andthedeal wasdone couldbetheshortest himself, hesaid:“This ister academy?” Green, 63, tellingBlair’s recalls team. do itforme.Whataboutifwe buildafashion a school?Iwasuselessatschool.Thatdoesn’t a school,theanswer wasno. “Why should Ibuild government firstapproached Green aboutstarting Tony Minister student: WhenformerPrime Blair’s high street clothingbrands,was ever amodel Group owns Topshop, Topman andahostofother develop theirskillsandtalents inthesector. the trade schoolhefounded to helpyoung people anniversary of London’s Fashion Retail Academy, major Britishretailers, to aparty markthe10th at $5.45billion, Green willbecohosting, withother dropout whosits atop aself-made fortune estimated exhaling retail sincehewas ateenager. Ahighschool one of Britain’s richest menwho’s beeninhalingand Tonight marks amilestone The academy is oneofmyriadThe academy is initiatives that “You can’t suddenly get agreat eye —toknow Green, who’s dressed forarecent in interview Today, inadditiontoArcadia, buildingwasalready“The to theprimemin- totalk When thetimecame Not thatGreen, billionArcadia whose $4.22

WWD.COM for SirPhilipGreen, like Kering’s François-Henri Pinault andHennes a personalwealth bigger thanfellow fashion titans approach tobusinesshastranslatedold-style into foran“A”child seekingpraise report card. onhis moment andthenext shyly ask forapproval, like a atone withutterbravado act andcertainty he can a room,never orastore stopscanning floor, and eyes impatientatthesametime.His and irascibly conversation hesomehow seems utterly relaxed whose profiles are foundonrare coins,while in he resembles oneofthoseRoman emperors Ivy andAnnabel’s Inappearance, inLondon. Richard Caring,whose properties includeThe numbers head,according inhis closefriend tohis Topshop settolaunch inthespring. ofBeyoncépartner Knowles inajointventure with Naomi Campbellrefer Phil,”andthe toas“Uncle pal ofSimonCowell, themanKateMoss and jeans andmass-market clothing,tothebillionaire from rise shoes, suburbanJewishhis kidflogging in theeyes witnessed public. They’ve oftheBritish charities —that’s madehimappear larger thanlife G Green with Yet there noquestioning is thenumbers: Green’s Tony Blair Sir Philip — and a “disconcerting” ability to crunch tocrunch — anda“disconcerting” ability intelligence, memory cious photographic reen abornentrepreneur is withafero- friends, family, employees and profits andlavished themupon which Green hasbanked his with — andtheconsistency Katrantzou. Kane, J.W. AndersonandMary ander McQueen, Christopher hottest labelssuchasAlex- ners includesomeofLondon’s young whose pastwin- talent, Yet it’s theretail business ident andchiefexecutive officerofJ. Crew, who thelargest,”is says Millard “Mickey” Drexler, pres- investorstomer andhis —ofwhich he,ofcourse, fight againstthem,haven’t we?” competitorsexcepton his tosay: “We’ve got to allgotfamilies —they’ve kids.”He won’t bedrawn day we’re responsible forlookingafterpeople’s “Financially, we’re very solid,andattheendof —andforthebusinessestokeeprespect growing. the manwithmoststores. Whathewantsis therichest, has noaspirationstobethebiggest, shape andgrow thebusinessway hewants.He freedom his independent operatorwho to prizes private Through ones. itallhe’s remained an by behemoths—orwell-endowed publicly listed latest Sunday RichList. TimesofLondon & Mauritz owner Tom Persson, according tothe strike. “We’re inaunique position: We are abig investments butsays thecompany ready is to reality.virtual ing VIParrivals andbackstage —ina360-degree Oxford Circus customerstowatchshows —includ- from theirperspective andallowingthe catwalk tomodels’headssoviewers couldsee cameras and Twitterforrunway shows, strapping tiny retailer’s offer, digital withFacebook partnering presenter NickGrimshaw. He’s alsoramped upthe ner, andmostrecently andradio TV theBritish Kate Moss, Kendall KateBosworth, andKylie Jen- a young generation through collaborations with ates flash saleWeb sites,for$80.9 million. in MySale, company thepublicly listed thatoper- We have got ofthat next tobeapart generation.” got tobein,it’s something we needtobedoing. “consumer-related online tech.It’s aplacewe’ve tive ofTopshop andTopman, atinvestments in people are tosell.” trying ofways unendingasareconsumer is thetypes out even leaving your home.Thechoiceofthe one, wherever you wantallover theworld with- brand,anAustralian brand,anAmerican English has never hadmore choice. improving,” says Green, addingthattheconsumer with. We’ve got topermanently keep progressing, are happening thatyou’ve got tobeupspeed like shopping, butthere are otherthingsthat to go shopping —theylike going tostores, they You sitidly by. cannot People are always going — lookwhat’s happened there, thetransformation. consumer experience. atthemusic Look business “He’s notoutthere topleaseanyone butthecus- He’s achieved dominated itallinanindustry Green declines togive about future any specifics At Topshop, he’s with taken painstoconnect year,Last hepersonally tooka25percent stake He says he’s lookingclosely, from theperspec- “You sitinyour can house, you shop an can vent, insomeway, the people lookingtorein- single day, there are “Everysumer bent. panies withacon- com- ment instart-up empire —andinvest- jewels Arcadia inhis and Topman —the building outTopshop future bothabout is last ofabreed.” and manages the it, it sustains business, who createdvidual the shareholder —theindi- managing owner and that regard: the He is in aunique positionin aclosefriend.“He’sis For Green, the

Green with Blair and Academy photographs by Peter Macdiarm/Getty Images Lane Crawford.Lane giant Shangpin,andintoHong Konge-tailing with with shops-in-shop inNordstrom; intoChinawith shooting for$1billioninsalesandhasexpanded with Leonard Green —where &Partners he’s which he’s rolled intotheU.S. viaapartnership theextraicating timetoTopshop andTopman, He saidhe’s tobuyit. the vehicle specifically ded- entrepreneurs, lawyers andbankers who formed Acquisitions Ltd., madeupofagroup which is of BHS foranominalsumanddebt-free toRetail BHS, andturnedaround years. inlessthantwo ailing BritishHome Stores, which here-branded divisions, andusedthemoney topurchase the of more than$240millionby sellingoffvarious madeaprofit retail conglomerateSears, British comeback thefollowing year when heboughtthe But hequickly got restless, retail andmade his Carlo, where they are exiles. stillbasedastax retail businesses andmoved family his toMonte children, ChloeandBrandon. wifewithwhom SouthAfrican hehastwo Tina, his the years thatfollowed, Green metandmarried for buyingandsellingcommercial In real estate. lion, thanksnotonly knack tofashion buttohis he’dby theendofdecade firstmil- madehis Street outletonConduit —and designer discount stores firstLondon —a cut theribbonononeofhis back inLondon. end-of-line clothing,shoes andothergoods tosell orders,jeans andboughtjoblots,canceled and Far where East, helearnedhow tomanufacture Later,London. traveling hebegan regularly tothe string ofgarages in gasstations andself-service mother Alma(who diedearlier year), this withher retailer. widowed careerhelpinghis Hehis began about—neversionately talks hadany trainingasa mind what thebusinessis.” Topshophas replicated point—it’s atthis inhis “Idon’tshop aone-off. productis thinkanyone andagreesminds inourbusiness,” thattheTop- with bigfirepower.” there —lookatPrimark andH&M—seriousplayers There are alotofothersuccessfulpuntersout todo, trying withTopshop,is tomake itunique. todifferentiate, whatthe trickis Philip andthat is got ofotherplacesthey’ve togoplenty tonow, masteroftheuniverse,tomer is got andthey’ve in anincreasingly cutthroat market. company, says Green hasbeenparticularly savvy battle when hetried—andfailedtotake over the Marks &Spencerwithwhom Green waged afierce tute forany hesays. ofthat,” have got There nosubsti- tobetop-of-the-tree. is to market, availability, allofthosethings service, you’ve got to sellthings.We needtohave speed need togive thecustomervalue,newness, and 3,000 thematterthere.” poundseach,andstart a challenge next term,maybe three orfourkids, whobusiness, have anidea.Maybe we’ll putup we a findafewpeopleinthere start who can bankroll entrepreneurs from theacademy. “Maybe hesays, weor track, can,” addingthat heplansto afternoonwithsomethingwethis should buyordo do. We seealotofthings.Ifsomebody showed up therefore we are extremely flexible inwhat we can private company, and nodebt, there virtually is Earlier this yearEarlier this heoffloaded theloss-making In 1998,Green triedtoretire. He various soldhis In theSeventies, heasked palJoan to his Collins Green —unlike theacademy studentshesopas- Drexler Green “one calls ofthegreat sourcing customerisn’t kinganymore,“The thecus- Rose,Stuart theformerchairmanandceoof A think it’s down togreat Andwe product. approach one:“Istill anold-school is currents forhis business,Green says his — which didn’t tobuy materialize—wastrying much more prominent. Thesecondturningpoint from beingoneofanumber ofpeopleto being has happened tohim.Thatwastheturningpoint and that’s elsethat everything what hasdictated wastobuyArcadia Rose. opportunity biggest “His the heightofBritain’s meritocracy. placeat the internationalspotlightandsealed his billion,amove himinto for $1.3 thatcatapulted weights, andmore more formalwear.” casual community,each local andwhere we needlighter got and tolearnalittlebitmore about eachcity man are growing very, very well. Ithinkwe’ve excellent andexpanded, andTopshop andTop- We’re learningstill.OurNordstrom businessis saystable,” U.S. Green. “The awork is inprogress. need tobe,andmore shop openingsare onthe looking where theopportunities are, where we “Philip’s to seeanopportunity,” is talent says In 2002, heboughtTopshop’s parent Arcadia “We are doingvery, very well inEurope and you? Didyou have ‘You’ve got to say sign inthelift— “I want to puta Sir PhilipGreen hello, how are a nice day?’” a niceday?’” ,

owner of Arcadia Group tomer straightinthe eye. ■ do? It’s allaboutlearning.” know where going, they’re what are theygoing to market place.“How are peopleshopping, do they ping tripstocheckoutwhat’s happening inthe academy shop- internson“mystery” some ofhis people needtobedoing,”says Green, who sends shops, going toshops. Istillbelieve that’s what happened to thatworld?” heasks. day? morning,good Good afternoon.’What’s got tosay hello, how are you? Didyou have anice he says. “Iwanttoputasigninthelift—‘You’ve get intheliftthey’re onthesebloody machines,” ingly digitizedday-to-day lives. minute they “The restore totheirincreas- somebasichuman contact to read about.” aboutsomethingIdon’tup to100e-mails want that’sbusiness, why I’mnotinterested inwaking Green. things]torunmy “Ineedtoknow [certain to wantknow —andtheyare different,” says either. Total wasteoftime,hesays. rather thantext. Heone-on-one doesn’t doe-mail, andprefersturns itoff, returns tospeak calls his andkeepsold stock, office.)He astashinhis never has sincebeendiscontinued. (Green buys upthe gled Nokia6310phonethatlaunched in2001and andcontinuesno smartphone, touseanold-fan- out following thedrumbeatofpublicmarkets. reason why way he needstodothingshis —with- last —brush withapubliccompany andamajor ofprofitseries downgrades. first—and Itwashis apparel discount listed chainAmberDay aftera career,in his he was oustedasceoofthepublicly & Spencer—mostrecently in2004—andearlier Marks &Spencer.” And, ifyou’re Philip Green, looking thatcus- The samegoes forthestudents:“Working in He’s Arcadia staffers also adamant thathis “I’m intheneed-to-knowbusinessasopposed abidingmantras: He oneofhis has is Simplicity bidtotake over inhis Green failedtwice Marks WWD.COM JULY 2015, No. 1

47 ONNA KARAN is still dreaming big. Despite a highly emotional time for the 66-year-old, who last week stepped down as chief designer of her namesake company to focus on growing her DUrban Zen brand and foundation, she managed to keep her sense of humor, perspective and signature streams of consciousness flowing during an hour- long interview about her legacy. ¶ The interview took place at Donna Karan International, in the office of Caroline Brown, DKI’s chief executive officer. So nobody stepped out of line, Karan was accompanied by her Donna: To Be Continued public relations consultant, Ken By Lisa Lockwood Sunshine of Sunshine Sachs, while Brown had her own, Pierre Rougier of PR Consulting. At times the tension between the two sides was palpable, even as all agreed Karan’s decision to exit the firm was painful for everyone involved.

Photograph by Martien Mulder

48 JULY 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 D.K.: I think I was shocked more than anything sensual, New York-inspired and modern. These D.K.: Urban Zen is my baby. I was given this vision upstairs. We don’t have to have a kitchen because he designer cofounded DKI in 1984 else. I didn’t think I could pull off one after the year codes will continue to live on in the DKNY business of Urban Zen over 15 years ago. It was so clean to you get it from downstairs. There’s a spa upstairs. before. So I was surprised by how much everybody as we evolve the brand. We also know from the me. I had done Donna Karan, I had done DKNY People like myself are constantly on the go, so I with her late husband, Stephan Weiss, loved it and Bridget [Foley] in particular. I knew it strength of the name, there is a clear opportunity and I felt that my next journey had to be Urban need my acupuncture, I need my massage. I need was a good collection, but I don’t think I’ve ever to broaden and elevate this offering — and through Zen. I had to find the calm in the chaos. I was liv- all these things, and it doesn’t exist. and investors Takihyo Inc. DKI went done a bad collection. Even though rumor has it, this DKNY can continue to capture the essence of ing in so much chaos. Everything around me was Have you started this center yet? there were a few. Donna in many ways. chaotic. I want to make a difference in this world. D.K.: That’s my dream. If you have enough public in 1996, and in 2001, LVMH Caroline, why did you decide to pull the plug on Is there a possibility that the collection could be I want to help. Since Seventh on Sale and Super dreams, you put it out there in the world and the Donna Karan collection? relaunched in a couple of years? dreams come true. CAROLINE BROWN: First of all, pulling the plug is C.B.: Right now, what we’re focused on is today. Tell me the five biggest highlights of your career Moët Hennessey Louis Vuitton paid definitely not how we would describe it. I’d love to Today we’re focused on celebrating Donna. We’re at Donna Karan. T comment first on the reaction from the teams. It’s focused on our gratitude and our appreciation D.K.: Day number one, had I known that it would $243 million for all outstanding shares in DKI, an emotional moment for our company, of course. for her enormous contributions. We’re focused be the success that it was. I thought it was going to One of the strengths Donna has as a leader, is she on her great partnership that be for my friends and me. I had never even imag- is a “we” and not an “I.” She’s extremely close to she’s had all these years. I’m ined. I think when I went into men’s wear. There’s plus $400 million for Gabrielle Studio Inc., the 2007 Karan the teams. On the other hand, one of the things very focused right now on what establishes the something about men’s wear that really captures licensor of the Donna Karan trademarks. they admire about Donna is her diversity. She’s not this means as a transition for Urban Zen Initiative my soul. President Clinton calls me up and says, a singular-focused person. She has so many areas our teams. When we get to the to raise awareness “Donna, I need a suit for the inauguration.” I said, The interview gave Karan a chance to discuss [Klein] or my husband. You never know what is outside this collection that she’s contributed enor- next phase, we have a long life about health care. “What size do you wear?” He said 54-long, and I her feelings on leaving the company and LVMH’s happening when there’s a huge, massive change mously to — philanthropy, Urban Zen, health care, and we have a strong brand said no, you’re not, you’re an extra long. I have surprising decision to temporarily suspend her in your life. My whole life is about that. This is not education, Haiti, Parsons [New School Parsons that will live for a long time. learned never fight with President Clinton, he’s designer collection. She will remain a close surprising. To me, it seems like it is what it is. Not School of Design]. Everybody here knows there We’ll address those at the right moment. always right. adviser to the firm, a long-term gig, although no that there’s any difference. To the outside world are a lot of balls in the air. I think it’s a time where Was there any conversation about selling the My bosses walked in one day and I said, “What details have been revealed. She also spoke ani- it might appear like that. there’s a lot of emotion, and there’s also a lot of Donna Karan business to another company? do you think of this suit?” They said, “It’s really matedly about the next chapter in her life — her Has this desire to leave been growing? looking back with great respect and appreciation. C.B.: We’re fully committed to this company and nice, I really like it.” And I said, “You’ll see it on philanthropy and Urban Zen — and said she’d be D.K.: I don’t think I’m doing much different than What has Donna built in these years? What is the this name. LVMH is fully committed, they’ve had the runway tomorrow.” That’s how I launched amenable to an investor in that brand. what I was doing. People say to me, How do I do legacy? The strength of the codes she instilled? It’s this investment for a long time. We really believe men’s. The third is DKNY, to be able to show dogs, With no shortage of causes and things to keep it all? I don’t. It’s very flattering of people to think a mixed moment. There’s a lot of emotion and a lot that there’s something really unique here. We’ve my husband, the children, all down the runway her busy, Karan is actually finishing up her mem- that I do it all, and I’m only one person. I say to been very public talking about its potential and at the same time. When people walked in to see oir, which will be published in October by Ballan- everybody in the company, they’re the people who enthusiasm for the future. DKNY for the first time, I think they were blown tine Bantam Dell, an imprint of Random House. do it. Peter [Speliopoulos, senior vice president of Donna, did you ever think of buying it back? away. Everybody was in white Keds sneakers. She said she had to turn in the last chapter by design, Donna Karan] is leaving D.K.: Absolutely, from the day we sold it. (Laugh- There must have been 75 looks, men, women, Monday, which is ironic, since the book’s ending as well. ter). It’s always hard because it’s your baby. This children, dogs. Everybody was like, “What is going just took a dramatic turn. How did the staff react? 1985 The bodysuit is your child. How many times are you able to on?” Fourth is the collection stores in London and is the basis of D.K.: There were a lot of tears. separate from your child? I don’t think a day will Madison Avenue. “seven easy How are you dealing with the new developments I don’t think anybody expected pieces.” go by that you don’t want your child back. The fifth highlight is today. It’s a master change. and how are you feeling? it. We looked at it very care- DONNA KARAN: It’s all happening. There’s the fully. We were working on anxiety of telling people. For me, there’s a relief to the spring collection. But we it. I’ve been holding onto it. I keep on comparing decided at this point if we “My dream is to be on a motorcycle, on the back, it to a sudden birth or death, whether it be Anne were going to announce it now, doing the spring collection wouldn’t make any sense. Resort is the and go to places that haven’t been sought out yet last collection, and fall. From my point of view, it could have been last fall. I didn’t expect to be here for this fall. I’ve always said, “This is it guys, this is and work with the artisans.” it. I can’t do it all.” Kathleen [Boyes, writer for the company] would always write, “To be continued,” of passion for Donna in all of our offices. LVMH has been an extraordinary parent com- Saturday, I always thought there was purpose in and I would say, “No, say the end,” and they’d say, Why did you decide to put the collection on pany. They respect the house, and if you look at philanthropy and commerce. “No, Donna.” hiatus then? Usually the designer collection is the what they accomplish, it’s extraordinary. They’re Let’s get back to the business of Donna Karan. Is Urban Zen just so much more compelling to umbrella and sets the tone for a business. the number-one mother brand to young designers, What role did you think you played in the evolution you now? C.B.: Business would be super easy if there was to businesses, to everything and I have the highest of American sportswear? D.K.: It’s not a question of it being compelling. a one-size-fits-all strategy. Companies all have to respect for LVMH and Mr. Arnualt and Pierre-Yves D.K.: The woman and her It’s like having another child. It needs attention. make their own decisions on how they continue Roussel [chairman and ceo of LVMH Fashion body, black, comfort, sensual, 1992 In a ground- breaking move, The more that I travel, the more that I get away, with the staff following the founder. We have a lot Group]. When LVMH purchased the company, day to night, seven easy pieces. Rosemary Mc- the balancing of the three [DKNY, Donna Karan of moving pieces in this company today. I would Stephan and I had a strong relationship with Yves It is a uniform. Black, not just Grotha portrays a and Urban Zen] becomes more difficult. Urban say our company is in a really interesting and excit- Carcelle. I adored him. I walked into his house and for black ties and funerals. female president in Zen has been my vision for so many years. I’m not ing moment of evolution. This decision on Donna there was a Buddha. He’s East meets West, that’s Putting stretch in men’s suits. a Donna Karan ad. getting that much younger. I’ll that we support and we respect, we’ve had many Donna Karan. I was the first to put stretch in 1984 Karan leaves never be as old as my daughter; conversations. It’s been a very open dialogue Tell me about the book that you’re writing. Is it women’s clothes. Anne Klein, where I’ll always be younger than between our teams here, Donna, LVMH. It felt like a tell-all? How do you think you might reinvent yourself? she codesigned her. That’s what I keep telling the right thing for the moment we’re at. For this D.K.: It is, the way I tell it. It’s certainly a book D.K.: The motorcycle diary. I really want to the line with Louis her. I’m a child at heart. And particular founder and this particular company. about my life, born on Seventh Avenue. It is spend a lot of time traveling. My dream is to be on Dell’Olio to launch there’s so much that I want Maybe it’s not the moment to turn it around this Donna Karan. Who would have ever thought, in a motorcycle, on the back, and go to places that Donna Karan. to do. I have this vision that I second. Maybe it’s the moment to live with it, to their wildest dreams, that literally the last chap- haven’t been sought out yet and work with the Today is not the end, it’s the beginning of the have been sitting on with my respect it and to honor it. Brands have very long ter is due Monday? I cannot believe it. It comes artisans. The thing I love about Haiti the most is unknown. Would I have ever dreamed that I would vision board for the past seven years that I want lives. And brands with strong DNA have very long out on my birthday, Oct. 2. The thing about the Haiti has the health-care aspect, the educational be sitting here talking to you today like this? No. to do this motorcycle diary. I love, love working lives. We see this as a long journey. Let’s focus on book is that I hope to touch people’s lives who aspect and the preservation of culture aspect. I’m open to dream. in Haiti. I love working with cultures around the some other areas of the business that we’re deeply realize that Donna Karan is not untouchable. For me, Bali is my inspiration, always has been, What’s most important to you? world. I’m a traveler. invested in, in terms of growth, right now, and let’s What everybody goes through, I’ve been through. always will be. My dream is to build a bamboo vil- D.K.: My family. My children and grandchildren. How are your friends reacting to everything revisit when the time is right. Whether it’s for young designers, or for women lage in Haiti. I do believe in Urban Zen living very How is your daughter handling this? going on? Would you ever incorporate the high-end aspect who are not happy with their bodies. There’s not much. I have a dream for Urban Zen. You walk D.K.: I told her she’s my mother. I think I’m han- D.K.: I think the people are in shock. It’s been of the collection into DKNY, something similar to a woman I know who isn’t happy about some into the store and there’s cotton, cashmere, can- dling this easier than she is, to be honest with you. shocking. I would call and say, “You have to come the way Marc Jacobs is merging Marc by Marc part of her body. dles, CDs, café, all healthy food. You get upstairs I just read yesterday that you’re on Forbes’ inau- to my last show Barbra [Streisand], it may be my Jacobs into the Marc Jacobs collection? You finance Urban Zen yourself. In a previous and you meditate, do yoga, there’s a conference gural list of America’s richest self-made women. last show, you have to be there.” But I thought it C.B.: Donna Karan and DKNY are very distinct interview, you said you had wished that LVMH area. People come together who want to create Your estimated wealth is $450 million, putting you was a better idea if she didn’t come. collections. However, they share the same core would have financed that, too, as part of the change in the world. Then you disrobe upstairs at number 31, tied with Diane von Furstenberg. Do you love the idea that your last show was principles that Donna established at the very Donna Karan company. Are you now glad it was and you get a Thai massage, acupuncture. Next D.K.: We are? I think I’ll call her husband [Barry

such a huge success? beginning of the company, always strong but Mitra Robert by Urban Zen WWD Archive; pieces from easy Nick Machalaba; seven by leaving Klein photograph Karan independent? door to that is a restaurant and living space Diller]. ■

50 JULY 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM JULY 2015, No. 1 51 Antonio Marras’ cotton and polyester overcoat. OPPOSITE Bibhu Mohapatra’s polyester and silk top and skirt. Necklace Botanical by Orly Genger by Jaclyn Mayer; cuff by motifs in Alexis Bittar; shoes by Brian Atwood. vibrant hues brightened up resort collections, giving them a decidedly flirty, feminine appeal.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JUCO STYLED BY LISA MOSKO

00 MONTH 00, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 Stella McCartney’s viscose and elastane dress. Necklace and bangles by Orly Genger by Jaclyn Mayer; shoes by Kurt Geiger. OPPOSITE Zac Posen’s polyester and nylon dress. Shoes by Brian Atwood.

00 MONTH 00, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 Oscar de la Renta’s silk and cotton dress. OPPOSITE Anna Sui’s polyester dress.

00 MONTH 00, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 No. 21’s silk dress. Shoes by Oscar de la Renta. OPPOSITE Lela Rose’s polyester and silk top and shorts. Necklace by Orly Genger by Jaclyn Mayer.

00 MONTH 00, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 Wes Gordon’s silk lace dress. Necklace by PHOTOGRAPHY: JUCO Orly Genger by Jaclyn MODEL: LEELA AT NEXT Mayer. SET DESIGN: DANE JOHNSON OF OPPOSITE CANOE LOS ANGELES Monique Lhuillier’s HAIR AND MAKEUP : DAVID TOLLS embroidered tulle WITH WORKGROUP dress. Shoes NAILS : KAIT MOSH WITH CLOUTIER by Christian Louboutin. FASHION ASSISTANT: GABY ACOSTA

00 MONTH 00, 2015 WWD.COM WWD.COM MONTH 00, 2015 00 ARE ARE THEY Barcelona Paris Barcelona Paris WEARING

As temperatures Paris XxxxxxBarcelona Xxxxxxx Barcelona EUROPEAN HEAT WAVE topped 90 degrees across Europe, residents of two of its most stylish cities, Barcelona and Paris, hit the streets in pared- down style. Women opted for breezy dresses and rompers worn with sandals and statement sunglasses, while men topped an array of easy Barcelona looks with shady fedoras. Barcelona Barcelona Paris Barcelona Paris

62 JULY 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM Photographs by MATTI HILLIG and FRANCK MURA WWD.COM JULY 2015, No. 1 63 REMEMBER 
 


The late Geoffrey Beene might the remaining 20 percent. conjure up multiple images: his The Beene Project The Geoffrey Beene Cancer modern, minimalist and origi- Research Center is now 100 per- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, nal designs, a successful men’s ODonations to the Geoffrey Beene Cancer Research cent funded by the company and PRODUCTIONS wear business, a fierce, stubborn Center have exceeded $144 million since 2006. the Geoffrey Beene Foundation. independence — and a decades- And royalties from the company’s FOR WOMEN, MEN 
 
 
long feud with this publication’s licensees fund the Geoffrey Beene AND CHILDRENS WEAR late, legendary publisher John B. Cancer Center.
   Fairchild. But there’s another, less- Each licensee contributes funds A Full Service Shop To The Trade known side to his legacy. to the advertising campaign. Beene Fine Fast Work 212-869-2699 




Beene, who died of squamous hired CoolGraySeven to develop a "
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   cell carcinoma in 2004 at the age marketing communications plan of 80, directed his estate to provide and an advertising campaign for support for cancer research, and fall to get the word out about the G. Thompson Hutton, president philanthropic thrust. The ads and chief executive officer of feature Colin Jost, writer and per- Geoffrey Beene LLC, came up with former on “Saturday Night Live,” an unusual plan that seems like a and coanchor of SNL’s Weekend 
 
contradiction in terms: a corporate Update. The campaign will break not-for-profit model. in the September issues of various  
 In 2006, Beene’s company estab- men’s magazines, in addition to lished the Geoffrey Beene Cancer outdoor and digital media. “Mr. Research Center at Memorial Sloan- Beene’s irreverent wit was legend- 


Kettering Cancer Center, donating ary, so we thought about a new 100 percent of net proceeds from face for the brand that would feel 
 its royalties to cancer research. In relevant for today’s consumer,” 2008, Beene’s estate donated the said Russell Nardozza, senior vice 
 
 
  
company to MSKCC. Since 2006 president and chief operating offi- and through July of this year, dona- cer of Beene, referring to Jost.     

  
tions to the Geoffrey Beene Cancer Beene’s foundation also funds 



Research Center will exceed $144 40 to 50 charities, including  
 
million in value, said Hutton. research for Alzheimer’s, heart dis-    
 
 
 
Keeping a low profile is not ease, YMA scholarships, the CFDA 
 unusual for the Beene franchise. Lifetime Achievement Award, pro-   

 
 And Beene’s feuds were many grams for veterans, protection of   


  in his career. The rift with WWD women and children, and protec-  
 

took on the air of fashion-industry tion of animals. Combined funding     myth, its actual cause blurred by of all the causes that Geoffrey the years. Several scenarios have Beene LLC and the Geoffrey Beene been described: One involved Foundation supports will exceed Beene’s refusal to share a sketch $183 million in value by July. of a wedding dress he made for “I want to do something that will make Among the breakthroughs from the daughter of President Lyn- [Geoffrey Beene’s] name as strong in Beene’s cancer research fund- don Johnson. Another scenario ing are molecular diagnostics for involved Beene’s reportedly curt the scientific community as it is in the targeted therapies; possible new dismissal of a young WWD writer treatments for pancreatic cancer, who had been assigned to inter- fashion community.” — G. THOMPSON HUTTON various leukemias, liver cancer and   
 
    view him. Whether single cause or methods of combating breast can- multiple, WWD was not welcome cer metastasis to the brain. Beene’s at Beene’s shows and he was virtu- role shortly after the Surrogate cancer was going to get him.” funds support advanced research ally ignored by the paper for most Court appointed him executor of Following the designer’s death, initiatives and labs, the establish-  
  of his career. But the designer and Beene’s estate in late 2004. Hutton had to decide what to do ment of senior and junior faculty WWD eventually tried to bury the Describing how this relationship with the company, which was chairs, graduate fellowships, the hatchet, and the paper’s fashion with MSKCC developed, Hutton owned by Beene’s estate. After annual Geoffrey Beene Symposium editors attended a few of Beene’s recalled a conversation he had with taking care of Beene’s family and and the annual Geoffrey Beene  

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(14(.%(2
 shows toward the end of his life. Beene prior to his death, where employees, Hutton approached Research Retreat. Beene’s women’s ready-to-wear Hutton told the designer, “I want to Harold Varmus, then-ceo of Memo- “It’s absolutely been a trans- &&(3302+(3
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 where the business has 30 licens- community.” established the Geoffrey Beene dent. He noted that broad support ees with companies such as PVH When Beene received his cancer Cancer Research Center at MSKCC. for research has eroded in the U.S.  

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 Corp., Oxford Industries, Global diagnosis in 2000, he showed up In 2008, Hutton worried about since 2003 because of the econ- Brands Group and Randa Acces- unannounced at Hutton’s office, what would happen to the company omy and funding has been flat. sories. Beene’s products generate saying he needed to get his affairs if something happened to him. “Part of science that particularly retail volume between $300 mil- in order. “The doctor said he had He spoke to Varmus at MSK and matters to cancer patients and to lion and $400 million. six months to live. I got him a new said: “How would you like to own our understanding of cancer has Hutton, who was formerly doctor,” said Hutton. Beene lived Geoffrey Beene?” Varmus happily been the ability to fund new ideas Beene’s attorney, became a direc- four-and-a-half more years. “He agreed. Hutton donated 80 percent that might lead to more effective  

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WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2015 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 210, NO. 1. Wednesday, July 8, 2015. WWD (USPS 689-960, ISSN 0149-5380) is published weekly, with one addi- tional issue in February, March, June, October, November and December, and two additional issues in April and August by Fairchild Publishing, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, 

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64 JULY 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM  #
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  FINALE

 
   
  
 


  
   
  
 


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Donna Karan in WWD, May 20, 1974.


  The Debut 
 O Donna Karan founded her own sportswear hadn’t gone so well — what if I can’t do it again?” company 31 years ago, but her first interview and “I’m from Lawrence, Long Island, so what in WWD appeared a decade earlier, shortly do I know?” Upon beating her limo driver to after her first complete collection for the opening the door, she lamented, “Oh hell, I do house of the late Anne Klein. The show was everything wrong.” She admitted to showing up  #
a hit and catapulted Karan, then 25, into at the 1973 fashion showdown at Versailles in a  fashion’s spotlight, 10 years before she would ponytail, expecting to dance — it was a ball, after   
 

 
revolutionize how women dress with her seven all — but there was no dancing, and thus, she   easy pieces. In 1974, even as congratulatory resolved to “get très chic.” Despite the angst, she telegrams and flowers flooded her design maintained her vision of solving real women’s 



 !! room postshow, she was full of self-effacement wardrobe problems and in the process made $  


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and insecurity: “I almost wished the collection fashion history. — DIANNE M. POGODA Sal Traina by Photograph EVENT SPONSORS FAIRCHILD 66 JULY 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM SUMMITS ANNUAL PARTNERS There’s nothing like the ease, breathability and wearability of a cotton shirt. It’s simply one of the most comfortable things you can have against your skin. And the longer it lasts (which can be quite a while), the better it gets. AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. Service Marks/Trademarks of Cotton Incorporated. © 2015 Service Marks/Trademarks COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. AMERICA’S