OSCAR’S CELEBRATING LAWRENCE WORLD MARCUS DIANE KRUGER JOINED UNVEILS A LEASED IN SÃO DEAD AT 96 DEPARTMENT IN PAULO IN THE LATEST LEG BLOOMINGDALE’S 59TH OF “THE LITTLE BLACK STREET FLAGSHIP. PAGE 3 JACKET” EXHIBIT. PAGE 3 PAGE 12

HOLIDAY ONLINE Becomes Cyber-All-the-Time

By RACHEL STRUGATZ

FORGET CYBER MONDAY — now it’s Cyber Week, or even Cyber Month. WWD As digital sales continue to grab an ever-larger part of the holiday retail pie, the onslaught of on- line shopping is starting earlier and earlier. As in MONDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2013 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY 2012, holiday e-commerce and mobile sales this year are expected to kick off on Thanksgiving Day — but experts predict more transactions will occur this Thanksgiving than ever before — and the boom will continue into and through the weekend. Cyber Monday sales last year rose 21.7 percent to $1.25 billion, according to ComScore, with some 10 million consumers shopping online and spend- Quiet ing $125 on average. The term “Cyber Monday” was coined by Shop.org in 2005, long before high-speed Internet and mobile commerce were easily acces- sible and when consumers relied on the broadband Internet in their offices to make purchases after the long weekend. Now improvements in fulfillment — like same- day delivery — as well as increased smartphone Beauty penetration and mobile usage are contributing to one long cyber shopping period that starts on Thanksgiving and carries through to the days lead- A subdued color palette, dash of ing up to . “Cyber Monday is like this digital innovation lace and modest cut send a message where people are trying to do a modern take on the of understated elegance for spring. old kind of Black Friday holiday — but Cyber Monday Here, Intimates’ is already out of date,” said Joseph Einhorn, chief ex- ecutive officer of e-tailer Fancy. silk and elastane bra and briefs The site’s biggest day last year came on Cyber worn with necklaces from Monday, when it took in $133,000 in sales. Two weeks ago, Einhorn said, the site did $185,000 — with no BARE Express. For more, see marketing or holiday promotion involved. The dis- WWD.com/fashion-news. covery-based e-tail platform has raised $78 million RACHEL in funding and started selling product in March 2012. SEE PAGE 12 ASSISTANT:

FASHION Sadove and Frasch: ZHU;

ZHE The Exit Interview

ASSISTANT: By DAVID MOIN PHOTO NEWMAN-REDFORD. Batman-Robin. Sadove-Frasch.

GOETZ; In retailing, it’s been a great fit. Stephen I. Sadove + — the marketing and consumer products whiz who turned retailer in 2004 when he found himself in MALIN the role of Saks Fifth Avenue’s chief operating offi- FOR cer, and two years later, chairman and chief execu- tive officer to fill the leadership void and stabilize the business. And Ron Frasch, a consummate merchant

KOHLHAGEN whose strong connections to designers kept Saks in the game through difficult times. Frasch has been ANNE

BY Saks’ president and chief merchant since February 2007. He joined in 2004 in a non-merchant role due to a non-compete agreement with his previous employer, MAKEUP Bergdorf Goodman. The expected closing today of Hudson’s Bay Co.’s

REDKEN; deal to buy Saks Inc. for $2.9 billion also brings to an end the Sadove-Frasch story at Saks, after a 10-year USING association. Their last day at Saks was Friday, bring- ing a sense of major accomplishment as well as a DUPREY sense of some unfinished business.

CARI In a frank and wide-ranging joint interview at the

BY corporate office days before, Sadove and Frasch ex-

HAIR pressed sadness about leaving Saks, and acknowl- edged they would have liked more time to further the turnaround they orchestrated. They detailed how they rebuilt a business that was dysfunctional, compared Saks with its arch rival , recounted some of the highs and lows of their stew-

CHARMIE/WILHELMINA; ardship and were clear in saying that they are leaving Saks Fifth Avenue on firm footing. PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE AT THE CROSBY STREET HOTEL; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY

MODEL: SEE PAGE 4 2 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2013 WWD.COM Vince Boosts International Push THE BRIEFING BOX IN TODAY’S WWD partners in Benelux and Scandinavia to get Vince By DAVID MOIN into more retail doors and possibly to open free- standing stores. “Those are big growth territories NEW YORK — With its initial public offering just for us,” where the focus will be on wholesale dis- around the corner, Vince is stepping up its interna- tribution at least initially, Granoff said. “We have Cory Kennedy at tional game. had broad distribution in Europe for a long time. Terry Richardson’s On the agenda: freestanding stores outside the Scandinavia and Benelux rounds out the distribu- Halloween party. U.S. for the first time, forming overseas partner- tion model.” For more, see ships for brick-and-mortar and wholesale growth, In 2012, Vince’s international revenues ac- WWD.com. accelerating in-store shop development and estab- counted for 8 percent of total sales. For the first lishing a showroom in Paris. six months of 2013, international is tracking at 10 The brand’s first international store opened Oct. 17 percent of sales. Vince’s total volume, at retail, was in Tokyo. The second will open in Istanbul by the end about $500 million last year. “We are seeing some of the first quarter of 2014. Both are licensed units. nice traction and momentum in the international “We have created a long-term strategy for interna- marketplace,” Granoff said. tional,” Jill Granoff, chief executive officer of Vince From country to country, there’s not much

and its parent company Kellwood Co., told WWD. change in the product, Damavandi said, with the EICHNER “First, we want to increase penetration in our exception of the range of sizes, including offering key existing markets — Canada, the U.K. as well as double extra-small, which is particularly relevant STEVE Japan and Korea,” she added. “In addition, we are for Asian markets. The contemporary brand con- BY selectively entering new markets. Our strategy is tinues to add categories, with kids in the works for PHOTO to increase wholesale penetration and selectively next fall, and has been elevating its fashion recent- open shops-in-shop and a few freestanding stores. ly with some edgier, higher-priced items like fur We are looking at major metro markets around jackets, to augment core offerings such as sweaters, the world, always on high-end fashion streets or T-shirts, tanks, leggings and ponte pants. As digital sales continue to grab an ever-larger part of the neighborhoods as well In Paris, “We are holiday retail pie, the online shopping onslaught is starting as A-plus malls. We looking to open a show- earlier and earlier. Page 1 want to be adjacent to room to really get our top designer brands European growth going Stephen I. Sadove and Ron Frasch sit down for a frank and and advanced contem- quickly,” Damavandi wide-ranging interview on their exit from Saks Inc. Page 1 porary brands. It’s a said. It’s expected that multiprong approach one will open next year. With its initial public offering just around the corner, Vince with multiple formats Vince has just has one is stepping up its international game. Page 2 in multiple markets. We showroom, in New York. want to convey that we The 1,615-square- Oscar de la Renta has opened a leased department at are on the move.” foot Tokyo store, in the Bloomingdale’s 59th Street flagship in New York. Page 3 Vince launched in Omotesando district, the international mar- mirrors the design of Karl Lagerfeld made his first visit to to unveil the latest Vince’s Mercer Street ketplace in Japan in leg in the traveling exhibition “The Little Black Jacket.” Page 3 2005 with Itochu Corp. flagship in SoHo in

Over the years, distribu- New York. It’s situated tion expanded to Isetan in a clean, modern, Profiles of the Accessories Council Excellence Award and Mitsukoshi in Inside the new cast concrete building honorees, who will be handed their trophies tonight at Cipriani Japan and other retail- Tokyo store. with large, rectangular 42nd Street in . Page 6 ers around the world. bronze framed windows Currently, Vince sells in that provide natural Hanesbrands Inc. intends to retain “more than half” of 43 countries with 537 points of distribution at high- light. Custom antique bronze hang-bar fixtures line Maidenform’s employees while closing its Iselin, N.J., offices and end department stores and specialty stores. the long walls, and the reclaimed white oak flooring, Fayetteville, N.C., distribution center by the end of 2014. Page 9 “Shops-in-shop showcase the brand in a better bleached African mahogany wall panels, sculptural light,” said Rebecca Damavandi, group president, cube fixtures to display mannequins and folded Jane Garmey discusses her new book, “Private Gardens of the global business development. Installing them de- product, étagères to house footwear and accesso- Hudson Valley,” which showcases her eclectic tastes. Page 10 pends on what the host retailer can provide in ries, and lighted shelving to accentuate product de- terms of space and adjacencies. Currently, there tails reflect the Mercer Street design. The store sells Harry Benson talks about his three upcoming shows, a are eight shops-in-shop overseas, including six in Vince’s women’s ready-to-wear, as well as boots, documentary about his life and getting back into fashion. Page 10 Korea and one each in Holt Renfrew in Toronto pumps and casual footwear. and Harvey Nichols in the U.K. Two more are The contemporary brand was founded in 2002. New York Attorney General Eric T. Schneiderman’s investigation scheduled to open this year, in Hankyu in Osaka Vince executives declined to discuss the IPO ahead. of Macy’s and Barneys’ policies for detaining and questioning and Harrods in London. Distribution also in- It’s expected to happen within a matter of weeks. In their customers based on race is under way. Page 11 cludes Barneys Japan, Lane Crawford, Matches, the U.S., Vince executives have also been talking up Bloomingdale’s Dubai, Tsum and Liberty. Vince its retail agenda. The company will open its 22nd Glamour editor in chief Cindi Leive cohosted the International does not operate shops-in-shop via the leased or full-price store by yearend at Columbus Avenue and concession model. 71st Street in New York. Women’s Media Foundation’s Courage in Journalism Awards Tokyo was picked for the first freestanding store The international expansion comes as Vince ceremony last week at the Beverly Hills Hotel. Page 11 because Vince has “a loyal customer” in Japan, is seeing a change in its creative team. Doo-Ri the executives said. The unit is operated by Itochu Chung has left the brand to return to New York, Lawrence Eliot “Lawrie” Marcus, a son of Neiman Marcus and Toray Diplomode, in what Granoff described while Karin Gregersen, Vince’s president, will cofounder Herbert Marcus and a former executive vice president as a “great shopping location near Louis Vuitton, add the title of chief creative officer. She oversees of the retailer, died Friday at 96. Page 12 Céline, Carven and Chanel — basically all the luxu- all of Vince’s creative functions, including design, ry players are in that area.” merchandising and marketing, as well as whole- ON WWD.COM Vince recently signed with two new distribution sale operations. EYE: Terry Richardson’s Halloween bash with The Smile was a sea of faux Mileys, Karls and Terrys. For more, see WWD.com

U.S.-EU Trade Talks Said ‘Back on Track’ TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. U.S. takes the situation seriously but believes the COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. By KRISTI ELLIS issues arising from it should be handled on a sepa- VOLUME 206, NO. 92. MONDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two rate track from that of the trade negotiations. additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance WASHINGTON — U.S.Trade Representative “I think you’ve heard from a number of Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Michael Froman said Friday the transatlan- European officials that they see the logic of moving Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, tic trade talks between the U.S. and European ahead with T-TIP,” Froman said. “It is very impor- and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Union are “back on track” after the U.S. gov- tant to their growth strategy and to their strategy to Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North ernment shutdown stalled the negotiations and try to maintain competitiveness in the global econ- Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. a widening imbroglio over reported U.S. spying omy. So we’re hopeful that we are going to be able Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or on European political leaders raised questions to continue to make progress on that.” inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine about the deal’s prospects. Froman said a team of U.S. trade negotiators is is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. Froman, who spoke on a panel at the sec- currently in Brussels to pick up where they left off You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt ond day of a business investment summit here, when the second round of the T-TIP trade talks was of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request addressed the fallout from the U.S. National canceled due to the 16-day U.S. government shut for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at Security Agency’s alleged surveillance of some down in October, stemming from a Congressional www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that of its European allies, which prompted some impasse on the budget and debt ceiling. we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at European officials to call for the Trans-Atlantic “There are negotiations that had to be canceled P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED Trade and Investment Partnership, or T-TIP, nego- during the shutdown of the government unfortu- ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER tiations to be suspended. nately, but are now back on track and we expect to UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR Asked whether the reported spying could hurt continue those discussions in the coming weeks,” DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A the trade agreement’s prospects, Froman said the Froman said. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WwD monday, november 4, 2013 3 WWD.COM The World of Oscar Comes to Bloomingdale’s AQUINO JOHN BY PHOTOS

products are woven together four minutes,” Frank Doroff, in displays where shoes, hand- vice chairman and general mer- bags and jewelry are grouped chandise manager of rtw and on shelves, a white flower neck- bloomingdales.com, said just The Oscar de la Renta shop at Bloomingdale’s in New York. lace is used to accessorize a after the designer area was un- resort blouse and home items veiled. “We’ve wanted him for such as a champagne bucket as long as I’ve been here, which a percentage of the ($350) are used as an accent is 22 years. We’re ecstatic to By Sharon Edelson revenues, anywhere Alexander and a tray holds accessories. A have him here.” from 5 to 20 percent. Bolen black silk satin mule is $775; a “For the U.S., we’re doing NEW YORK — The “world of The leasing model is and Frank Mulberry snakeskin roll clutch, business in a unique way,” Oscar de la Renta” is located popular in Europe, Doroff $1,190; a Kelly chine tartan Bolen said. “We’ve been grow- at 772 Madison Avenue, the de- the Far East and silk taffeta dress, $2,490, and a ing our partnership with signer’s flagship. Now a version other parts of the black silk faille gown with gold Bloomingdale’s with fragrance of the breadth of offerings can world. Selfridges, bullion and bead toile embroi- and home products. We opened be found in a new leased de- Harvey Nichols and dery, $13,990. apparel as a wholesale account partment at Bloomingdale’s 59th Harrods in London “We can’t do that with a shop- at Bloomingdale’s in Chestnut Street flagship. a n d G a l e r i e s in-shop,” Bolen said, explain- Hill, outside .” The concession represents a Lafayette in Beijing ing that the merchandise would The leased department growth vehicle for de la Renta have a large num- be chosen by the department gelled after Bloomingdale’s and signifies milestones for both ber of concessions, store’s “ready-to-wear buyer approached de la Renta about the designer and retailer. while at El Palacio [only], not a shoe buyer or a jew- getting rtw distribution for The 1,000-square-foot space, de Hierro in Mexico, elry buyer. We’re presenting a 59th Street. “We have a great which bowed Friday, is de la 95 percent of the broad assortment. In Europe, relationship with Bergdorf Renta’s first leased department luxury vendors op- it’s a more common arrange- Goodman and a fantastic re- in the U.S. and marks the first erate leased depart- ment, and we want to figure out lationship with Saks Fifth time in more than 20 years that ments within stores. how to do it.” Avenue,” Bolen said. “When the designer’s ready-to-wear is Louis Vuitton Special orders will be part of considering distribution, we al- available at Bloomingdale’s. popularized con- the business. Clients will even ways ask ourselves, ‘Is there a “When I first came to New cessions in the be able to purchase bridal gowns customer we are not currently York, Bloomingdale’s was the U.S., where lux- from look books on iPads that serving?’ The answer was, ‘Yes.’ place to be,’ said de la Renta. ury brands such staffers will carry; an eager moth- There’s an affluent interna- “It has always been more than a as Christian Dior, er-of-the-bride was shopping for tional tourist at Bloomingdale’s store. It’s truly a destination and Fendi, Burberry, a dress during the department’s that we don’t serve. We went to a trademark of what this city is Gucci, Prada and opening hours on Friday. address the proposal and lo and all about. I am really happy to Miu Miu have been Bolen said the company is behold, we were able to work be back at Bloomingdale’s in pushing for more leased de- He characterized the conces- speaking with other American something out.” such a meaningful way. The partments in upscale depart- sion as “fundamentally a whole- retailers, but declined to name Besides controlling inven- shop is in many ways a celebra- ment stores. sale arrangement. We may con- them. “We’re having some dis- tory, leased departments allow tion of the expanding world of “Our intention is that the tribute to that. The risk of the cussions. There’s no exclusiv- vendors to hire their own staff, our brand.” leased department business buy, the delivery and the sell- ity period [at Bloomingdale’s]. which is seen as a big plus. “You The designer is expected to will become an important through is all ours. The upside This is our store within can control the environment in make an impromptu visit to his part of our business model,” is the margin associated with Bloomingdale’s. We’re a rent- terms of people and customer leased department some time said Alexander Bolen, chief retail over wholesale,” he said. paying tenant.” service matters,” Bolen said. on Monday. executive officer of Oscar de “It’s our store within the con- Oscar de la Renta is talk- Anna Lee Bassani-Mena, Leased shops, a retail buzz- la Renta. “As we think of the text of being the world of Oscar ing to Harrods about opening a de la Renta’s manager at word, allow brands to manage future business, we’d like to de la Renta.” leased department there. “We Bloomingdale’s, was previously merchandising, visuals, staffing learn to do leased departments The Bloomingdale’s conces- haven’t been able to reach a fi- a manager at Saks Fifth Avenue and operations with guaranteed the right way. We’re thinking sion qualifies as a “world of ” nancial agreement yet,” Bolen and trained for several weeks at space in the department or spe- of this as a very important ad- distribution point because it said, “but we’re still talking. It’s the de la Renta Madison Avenue cialty store for up to five years be- junct to our Madison Avenue showcases multiple categories something I want to do.” flagship. The department has fore renewal is required. Brands store. In inventory matters, such as rtw, shoes, handbags, “We’ve had Oscar de la four full-time staffers including pay rent and stores can also get we’ll be very nimble.” jewelry and home. The various Renta in the store for about the manager. Karl Lagerfeld Swings Into São Paulo Diane Kruger and is aimed at further raising Chanel’s actor Joshua Jackson, was more timid. By Simone Esmanhotto profile in the country and city, where Brazilian models , s

there are three brand boutiques in and ge ma

SÃO PAULO — Karl Lagerfeld made the malls Iguatemi, JK Iguatemi and and artist Vik Muniz were all smiles I

his first visit to Brazil to unveil the lat- Cidade Jardim. as they held their smartphones up to tty e est leg in the traveling exhibition “The Surrounded by Carine Roitfeld and Instagram the party. G Little Black Jacket.” model-turned-music-producer Caroline Lagerfeld arrived a little after 10 l/AFP/ io

The exhibit is on at Oca, the Oscar de Maigret, Lagerfeld stood still as the p.m., after a day spent doing inter- r a Niemeyer hut-shaped pavillion in Brazilian fashion crowd jumped up and views. By that time, guests had already c Ibirapuera Park, which is the 15th down along with M.I.A. at the opening. seen the images displayed along the hin Sc

space worldwide to be occupied by Along with him in the VIP area, ground floor, posing with favorites such el u g black-and-white images of 100-plus Diane Kruger, wearing an off-the- as Sofia Coppola and her Louis Vuitton- i M

friends of the fashion house wearing shoulder dress with floral appliqués, designed bag. The designer left as by the jacket Coco Chanel launched in danced on a chair, moving her head M.I.A. wrapped up her show by inviting

1954. The show will run until Dec. 1 frenetically while her boyfriend, the crowd up on stage. photo

w04a003a;8.indd 3 11/1/13 7:16 PM 11012013191734 4 WwD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2013

Steve Sadove and Ron Fr asch: The Exit Interview {Continued from page one} you can alienate your customer base. If you “The fact that we sold at $16 a share, move too quickly, it’s the end of the game for among the highest multiples for a depart- the franchise. There’s a balancing act. You’ve ment store, is indicative of not only the op- also got to continue’’ to evolve the franchise.” portunities ahead for Saks but that the com- “We are not trying to be so one-dimension- pany is in sound shape,” Sadove said. “It is al, and people expect we won’t be,” Frasch a healthy business. The stores never looked said of the criticism. “You can’t just con- better. The stores are in good shape. This sider the fashionistas and what they think. is not a broken company. Saks weathered a Saks has this broader customer base. One of storm, has great potential and commanded the attractions for me to come to Saks Fifth a good price. We never put Saks up for sale. Avenue in the first place was that there was We were approached. We made it clear from this broader customer base, and not just the start that if we sold the company it would fashionistas. Our client base is broader and a have to be at an attractive price. At the same little younger than before. Our point of view time, company ‘B’ came up for sale, so we is to try to be a little more modern, and not were simultaneously looking at buying a com- so classic and expected. I do think we have pany, or selling, or doing nothing at all.” made great headway. We are the number-one Company B was, of course, Neiman Marcus, which was recently sold to Ares Management LLC and the Canada Pension Plan Investment Board for $6 billion. There is an element of With leaving Saks, “There is an element of bittersweet,” Sadove said. “But we did something very good for the shareholders. bittersweet, but we did Obviously, we feel there is unfinished busi- ness, but we’ve had clear growth in omni. something very good for There remains potential in the stores. We continue to improve the matrix. There is the shareholders. never an end to the journey.” “In this business, I don’t think you ever — stephen i. sadove leave a company where you feel you com- pleted all of your objectives,” Frasch said. “I

don’t think you can put a period at the end of account in New York for Azzedine Alaïa. At it. There is more to do.” the same time, we do a fabulous business The executives agreed Saks needs to with St. John. I am very proud of that.” close more stores. In 2005, the retailer had “There has been enormous progress,” 66 stores; it’s currently down to 41. “We fun- Sadove added. “The average age has come damentally changed the real estate base,” down, though Saks is still not a young brand.”

Sadove said. Downsizing is not an easy pro- While Saks blazed the trail in elevat- cess, he said, complicated by lease terms ing department store footwear departments and landlord negotiations, helping the prop- with its innovative 10022-Shoe format, there erty owners find alternative formats to fill the have been some issues with the newer con- space Saks vacates, and laying off staff. The temporary piece of the floor.’’ “It’s a work in best scenario is when the lease on an under- progress,” Frasch said. “The shoe floor [over- performing store ’’ expires, giving the retailer all] continues to be extremely vibrant. The an easier exit. Christian Louboutin addition has been suc- Sadove said Saks should be a chain with cessful. Louis Vuitton shoes is the number- 30-something stores. Nevertheless, “The clos- one or number-two door in the States, and in ing of stores isn’t going to drive profitability,” the top four or five globally.” he explained. “It will help a little. The real Saks has also been repositioning women’s growth in earnings will come from making contemporary to be more fashion-forward the stores more productive, taking the Fifth and “cooler,” Frasch said. Some of that repo- Avenue flagship from $700 million in sales sitioning involves labels, such as Phillip Lim, Blxoxbxrg’s Axtxiox Plxi to $1 billion, and improving our margins. If Helmut Lang and Rag & Bone, shifting to an Saks had the brand matrix of Neiman’s, it adjacent location in proximity to designer would have better productivity. We’ve been collections, and in more modern environ- By David Moin inconsistent with the brands. When we have ments, Frasch explained. the brands and the right-size store, Saks does Years ago, it would have been tough to NEWMAN-REDFORD. Batman-Robin. Sadove-Frasch. be quite so granular due to bigger-picture In retailing, it’s been a great fit. Stephen I. Sadove concerns. “I came in when Saks was still a — the marketing and consumer products whiz who holding company with department stores,” turned retailer in 2004 when he found himself in The culture drives the Sadove said. “I was involved in those depart- the role of Saks Fifth Avenue’s chief operating offi- ment store divestitures. There had been very cer, and two years later, chairman and chief execu- success, and the role little synergy between the department store tive officer to fill the leadership void and stabilize the group and Saks Fifth Avenue, and the team business. And Ron Frasch, a consummate merchant wasn’t really working well together.” whose strong connections to designers kept Saks in of leaders is to create a Sadove became ceo of in January 2006 the game through difficult times. Frasch has been when Saks Inc. was in the midst of seri- Saks’ president and chief merchant since February great culture. ous change. The company had just struck a 2007. He joined in 2004 in a non-merchant role due to deal to sell 142 department stores under the a non-compete agreement with his previous employer, — stephen i. sadove Younkers, Herberger’s, Carson Pirie Scott, Bergdorf Goodman. Bergner’s and Boston Store nameplates, and The expected closing today of Hudson’s Bay Co.’s the 40-door Parisian chain was immediately deal to buy Saks Inc. for $2.9 billion also brings to an very well. Short Hills [N.J.] is a small store. put on the block. end the Sadove-Frasch story at Saks, after a 10-year We are way underproductive there.” Ultimately, the company grew smaller and association. Their last day at Saks was Friday, bring- On the other hand, the Boston, Beverly more profitable during Sadove’s tenure, with ing a sense of major accomplishment as well as a Hills, Bal Harbour, Fla., and Troy, Mich., net sales between 2005 and 2012 shrinking to sense of some unfinished business. branches are among the company’s stron- $3.15 billion from $5.95 billion. Net income In a frank and wide-ranging joint interview at the gest performers, Sadove added. “Where rose to $62.9 million last year from $22.3 mil- corporate office days before, Sadove and Frasch ex- there’s a good matrix of brands, great ser- lion in 2005. pressed sadness about leaving Saks, and acknowl- vice and a great-size store, we compete very The flagship division on its own also edged they would have liked more time to further well,” he said. grew more profitable during Sadove’s reign, the turnaround they orchestrated. They detailed “Neiman’s has big stores in big markets even as the number of full-line stores fell how they rebuilt a business that was dysfunctional, and all the brands, and our’’ stores have been to 43 at the end of last year from 55 in 2005. compared Saks with its arch rival Neiman Marcus, in every market without attention to acquir- Operating income expanded to $138.5 million recounted some of the highs and lows of their stew- ing the brands,” Frasch observed. from $22.3 million, as sales rose 15 percent. ardship and were clear in saying that they are leaving Sadove and Frasch also addressed Saks’ Saks’ stock stood at $11.53 when Sadove Saks Fifth Avenue on firm footing. image. The retailer maintains its tony status, moved into the corner office, and the compa- SEE PAGE X despite its low profit rate. Yet some retailers ny paid out two dividends of $4 each in 2006 and suppliers believe Saks could use a major and was ultimately sold to Hudson’s Bay for

refresh, or to be reimagined with an identi- $16 a share. eichner ty that’s as sharp as Barneys New York’s or Saks sold the Proffitt’s, McRae’s and Bergdorf ’s and different, to which Sadove re- Parisian chains because “it was a slow- steve by plied, “It’s easy for someone from the outside growth environment and we could get good Ron Frasch and Stephen I. Sadove.

to say that. If you try to change too quickly, prices. At the same time, we believed Saks photo

w04a004(5)a;7.indd 4 11/1/13 7:24 PM 11012013192524 WwD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2013 5 WWD.COM Steve Sadove and Ron Fr asch: The Exit Interview Saks made a statement with 10022-Shoe. The Fifth Avenue flagship.

images in "saks" folder to be scanned - pringer S

obert R

had C

by photo

had a lot of growth potential,” Sadove said, even though it was beset by an overstacked senior team that didn’t work well together and overlapped re- sponsibilities. In 2006, when the board asked Sadove to become ceo, “there was a broader question: Saks had a bro- ken culture. It wasn’t supportive. It needed funda- mental change,” he said. “The culture drives the

success, and the role of leaders is to create a great culture. I decided that Ron and I would partner. I had gotten to know him, and he brought a skill set totally different from mine. We had complementary views regarding people, service, innovation. We annaccone I had a consistent vision. When we first got together,

we spent a ton of time working on strategy, build-

ing teamwork, a sense of collaboration, honesty. It homas T

wasn’t really that people were lying to each other — by it was that they weren’t communicating their con-

cerns or did it behind people’s backs. There was a photo culture of finger pointing.” “We really had’’ trouble keeping people,” Frasch have some cashmere gloves in one of our outlets,” recalled. “It was a tough environment. It was not a Frasch said. collaborative environment. What Steve insisted on The most challenging time was when the Great was honesty, communication, and if someone disap- Recession hit in fall 2008. “It was pretty ugly. We proved of something, it was voiced at the meeting, woke up one morning and 25 percent of our custom- not after the meeting.” ers went away,” Sadove said. There was also a disturbing and disruptive Merchandise wasn’t moving quickly enough, Securities and Exchange Commission investiga- even at 40 or 50 percent off. “It wasn’t until we tion into markdown allowances and overcharging went to 70 percent off that people in the stores vendors. “We brought it to the SEC,” Sadove said. began fighting for the merchandise,” Sadove said. Eventually, Saks settled. “We were very up front with vendors and the orga- “Steve wasn’t dealt a great deck of cards,” nization. I still believe it was the right decision.” Frasch noted. “You had a culture challenge, a qual- Designers were shocked by the severity of the ity-of-people challenge, a real estate challenge, markdowns, however, and blamed Saks for promot- ing so steeply and so early, even though Neiman’s started its price promotions at about the same time. Relationships were frayed, though designers even- In this business, I don’t tually got over it. “We were ahead of the curve” responding to the think you ever leave a recession, Sadove said. “We cleared the inventory, got the cash and took actions to strengthen the balance sheet. The organization was downsized company where you feel by 12 to 13 percent, and there were pay cuts from 3 to 7 percent” that Frasch and Sadove partici- you completed all of your pated in. “We communicated what we were doing very clearly, internally and externally.” Sadove objectives. I don’t think you launched his “Straight Talk” Webcasts, keeping employees in the loop. can put a period at the end “Amid the recession, we were also placing our bets on the future,” Sadove said. “We funded new projects. We bet on the future of the Internet, of it. There is more to do. 10022-Shoe and robotics” at the distribution center. Marketing dollars shifted from national to local ef- — Ron Frasch forts, and store managers’ responsibilities extend- ed to the local marketing and service standards. Another highlight: Saks launched Project which all affected the vendors that we could at- Evolution in 2011, investing millions in founda- tract. It felt like you were bouncing around. If you tional systems and new technology to support om- walked into Saks wearing a sweat suit, associates nichannel efforts and establish tighter links be- would look away. A lot of people didn’t want to sell tween merchandising and marketing. us. We needed a breakthrough. Two brands even- As far as his personal evolution after Saks, tually came through for us: Loro Piana and Roger Sadove said he plans to seek more seats on corpo- Vivier. It didn’t happen overnight, but the percep- rate boards, and recently joined the J.C. Penney tion of Saks changed.” board. He also cited the possibility of doing private “This wasn’t a company about to go under,” equity work, and consulting. “I didn’t come to Saks Sadove said. “It was dysfunctional, with no clarity with a deep knowledge of retailing. I never tried of strategy. We had big stores, small’’ stores, ‘Main to play the merchant. I am much more of a culture Street’ stores. We didn’t have clarity of merchandis- builder,” he said. ing. Ron came up with the nine-box grid, the notion Frasch said he’s not sure about the future, of creating a common language, which was funda- though for right now he will be spending more time mental to getting the merchandising right, store with his children, coach baseball and play golf. by store by store, and by category. It became the “We’ve had so few disagreements, I can count foundation for Ron’s team to say, ‘What do you want them on one hand,” Frasch said. each store to look like?’ It really changed the way “We felt a little different about the Internet. Ron people thought and forced people to collaborate.” came from a store background. I was probably a Among the store’s darker days was the ill-con- little more aggressive,” Sadove added. ceived “Wild About Cashmere” promotion in 2005 “It wasn’t a clash,” Frasch said. “We are friends. where there were sheep in the store. “We still We play golf together.”

w04a004(5)a;7.indd 5 11/1/13 7:24 PM 11012013192526 6 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2013 WWD.COM

working in costume The Ace Award Winners jewelry for more than 20 years, began THE ACCESSORIES COUNCIL IS HOLDING ITS 17TH-ANNUAL ACCESSORIES COUNCIL EXCELLENCE AWARDS TONIGHT AT by selling his CIPRIANI 42ND STREET IN NEW YORK CITY. HERE, THE HONOREES. BY ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD AND KRISTI GARCED Lucite-centric

wares on the COUNCIL streets of New York’s SoHo. LEGACY AWARD: THE FRYE COMPANY Now, Bittar,

Q&A with Dow Famulak, chief who sold a 50 ACCESSORIES

executive officer of LF USA and percent equity THE LF Europe, which are part of Li & stake in his OF Fung, the parent company of Frye: eponymous WWD: For the first time, the company last Accessories Council is honoring a year, just COURTESY company with the Legacy Award, launched fine Alexis Bittar which signifies longevity in the jewelry to PHOTOS industry. After 150 years in the shoe complement business, has it been a challenge for his bridge and costume lines. Sensitive Frye to remain fresh and original? to the size of his consumers’ wallets, Dow Famulak: Frye is an enduring Bittar told WWD, “I design to a broad American heritage brand that demographic, of consumer and age. offers a new discovery for each In doing so, price determines the generation. By remaining true complexity of designs. The goal is to to the core values of the brand, Inside a Frye store. design the perfect piece, where the we maintain excitement across consumer feels that they are always generations. Good craftsmanship underspending and buying into value and quality product are two things Proud of the fact that since 1998, when promise as guardians of the brand and a high-design aesthetic. I believe that never go out of style. we reintroduced the brand, we have is to remain true to core values that that luxury is in the details, not in the WWD: The “Legacy Award,” been able to not only sustain but drive were put in place in 1863. price point.” Bittar’s core collection recognizes an individual or core family and generational values. WWD: For the coming year, what does has an average price point of $250, organization that has demonstrated WWD: Please tell me about how Frye Frye have planned in terms of retail and a price range of between $65 and excellence and made extraordinary has expanded in terms of product. expansion? $1,000. Fine jewelry ranges from $395 contributions to the industry for D.F.: We are delighted that consumers D.F.: In 2013, we were fortunate to be to $16,000. 50 years or more. What are some have responded so well to Frye’s able to add three more flagship stores, key contributions you have made expansions into a broader range in Boston, Georgetown and . OMNICHANNEL RETAILER: NORDSTROM throughout the years? of footwear, bags and accessories. This gave us even more opportunity One of retail’s champions during the D.F.: There have been so many This has been a natural and organic to show the entire breadth of our economic downturn, Nordstrom has milestones over the 150 years of the growth for us. Because Frye is rooted work and talk directly to consumers. emphasized brand. We are very proud of the fact in strong foundational elements, In 2014, we are looking for more the that mothers and daughters have the creative team has a myriad of opportunities to tell our story and A Nordstrom store. importance bought their Frye boots together. opportunities to be more creative. Our connect with our customers. of smart merchandising and offering value. BREAKTHROUGH AWARD: RAG & BONE categories together account for nearly According to Despite their brand’s passionate 20 percent of the brand’s overall the retailer’s following and subsequent success, business. executive vice David Neville and Marcus Wainwright, With price points that sit just under 3.1 Phillip president the duo behind Rag & Bone, had no the designer level, Rag & Bone’s Lim’s Ryder and general concrete plans to launch handbags. footwear and handbags fill a white satchel. merchandising That was until Vogue magazine’s Anna space, the founders said, noting that manager of Wintour wrote them a note that said, the main challenge is keeping up with accessories, “Rag & Bone better have a handbag.” demand and finding a crop of U.S.- Margaret “That gave us a little bit of an based accessories designers to hire Myers, impetus,” Neville said, of the October who understand the brand’s aesthetic. Nordstrom is 2011 letter. “We started trying to figure “When we put the Newbury boot laser-focused out how to do it.” out there, it took a couple of seasons to on offering Founded in 2002, Rag & Bone really take off, but now we can’t make a value, no had only launched a footwear line in them fast enough,” said Wainwright. matter the 2009, following the launch of its men’s “It’s the same with the bags. It keeps price point. ready-to-wear collection in 2004 and building up steam. I think we’re off to “We have its women’s rtw line in 2005. With a good start.” a full offer across all accessories the recent launch of denim in 2010, categories that ranges from opening Neville and Wainwright said they had DESIGNER OF THE YEAR: PHILLIP LIM price points for very young customers to really “sit down” and mull over Carving a niche in the highly all the way to the very best the world what a Rag & Bone bag would look competitive contemporary has to offer in designer accessories,” like. That process took about a year, accessories market is no small feat, she said. “Our customers’ expectations Wainwright noted, adding that since especially when your brand is only of us prevent us from being one- its 2012 debut, handbags, along with eight years old. dimensional in our approach to shoes, have become Rag & Bone’s But Phillip Lim has made it look editing and merchandising. We “fastest-growing segments. relatively easy. With a collection value. Our customers don’t feel like think about our customers’ price “We really see that it could be 50 that fits squarely into an “accessible they are overpaying. They feel like sensitivities at every level of price. percent of the business one day,” he designer” price point, Lim’s bags and they get great value.” This seems to apply all the way from said, adding that currently the two shoes reflect consumers’ fashion and As a result, accessories have opening-price product to the luxury budget-conscious mind-set. expanded to between 35 to 45 percent purchase. What seems to matter “When we started the ready-to- of Lim’s total business, with the to all customers is the question of wear business, it was about dressing remainder representing rtw sales. Lim whether that item is worth it to them the woman. Now, it’s about the declined to provide sales volume. at the moment they are making the accoutrements, what she holds, how The lion’s share of accessories buying decision.” That strategy has she accessorizes,” designer and sales growth has really taken place paid dividends for Nordstrom, which cofounder Lim said of his brand 3.1 over the last two years, the designer expanded its net income 7.6 percent Phillip Lim. said, noting that in order to capitalize last year to $735 million, or $3.56 a According to the designer, when on demand, he is looking to expand diluted share, on sales that increased he started his business, it was geared his business via new hires and other 12.1 percent to $11.76 billion. toward the “young professional with forms of “holistic growth.” little disposable income.” Lim, who recently collaborated MARYLOU LUTHER JOURNALISM AWARD: With that mantra in mind, Lim with Target on a fall collection of HAMISH BOWLES launched bags and shoes in 2011 with men’s and women’s apparel, bags and WWD: Has a sense of style always come the philosophy of making accessories shoes, said he would love to broaden naturally to you, or is it something functional yet fashionable. his accessories line. you’ve cultivated? “I always look at accessories in “I love jewelry,” Lim said. “That Hamish Bowles: I don’t really think a practical way, asking how does it comes in the future. Right now, I’m I ever thought about it. At high work for you,” he said, pointing to the focused on fine-tuning the house.” school, I always dressed and thought sub-$1,000 price point of his bags and differently about clothing than my shoes. “When you say fashion, people BRAND OF THE YEAR: ALEXIS BITTAR contemporaries did, for instance, and Marcus Wainwright and associate it with an expiration day, but Alexis Bittar’s journey in the jewelry was reviled as a result. It wasn’t cool David Neville of Rag & Bone. it’s not just about your life on a Friday world has been a long one. to dress or think outside the pack, but night. Our accessories have a sense of The designer, who has been {Continued on page 8}

8 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2013

And it’s working: Warby Parker Kate Young The Ace Award Winners hit its first year’s sales target within three weeks of launching in February {Continued from page 6} of 2010. The brand’s low price points, I wasn’t interested in the pack or being BUSINESS VISIONARY: DIANE SULLIVAN, stylish products and innovative a part of anything then perceived as BROWN SHOE COMPANY customer service — they send cool. Personally, even then I didn’t As president, chairman and chief customers five pairs of frames for five think a pack mentality was cool, and executive officer of St. Louis-based days, free of charge, allowing them to I certainly don’t now. I’m proud that I Brown Shoe Co., Diane Sullivan, who try glasses on at home — have proved ambled on in my own fashion even if I first joined the company in 2004, has to be a hit with shoppers. With five suffered for it. aggressively repositioned and re- brick-and-mortar locations across New At Saint Martins art school in the strategized the brand with impressive York, Boston and Los Angeles, as well early Eighties, however, quirky self- results, receiving praise from analysts as a touring showroom dubbed Warby for a strong first quarter in 2013. Parker Class Trip, the brand seems The company, which oversees poised for growth. Hamish Bowles contemporary brands like Vince, Via “Warby Parker is confidently Spiga and Sam Edelman — as well forging its own path,” said Giberson. as a range of “healthy living” and “[The brand] leaves people scratching “family” brands such as Dr. Scholl’s, their heads. They’re not a normal LifeStride, Naturalizer and Famous optical company.” Footwear — continues to grow through new partnerships and distribution HALL OF FAME: IMAN Portman, Michelle Williams, Rachel channels. “At Sam Edelman, we are Iman, the first discovered Weisz and Maggie Gyllenhaal, said she really [pleased] about the partnership in 1973 by Peter Beard while studying has never received an award for her with Kellwood Co. to produce in Nairobi, Kenya — is nothing if not work before. women’s, junior’s and girl’s apparel,” enterprising. The founder and ceo of “It’s really exciting,” she said. Sullivan said. global beauty brand Iman Cosmetics, “Accessories really set the tone for a The Naturalizer brand will also which she launched in 1994, has look; shoes matter almost more than partner with David Bromstad, the become a pioneer in the field of anything else. I think accessories are artist, interior designer and host of multiethnic beauty, and more recently a place to express your personality, HGTV’s Color Splash and HGTV Star, and I love that people of any size in a new collaboration for shoes and Iman can experiment with them.” And she presentation was celebrated and accessories next spring. “Sometimes also dabbles in design: Last spring, applauded, so I began to flourish and you see the big execs and it’s a little Young launched a line of semiformal experiment even more. I’ve sobered intimidating,” said Karen Giberson, and special occasion dresses in up since then, but I’m delighted if the Accessories Council’s president. collaboration with Target. people are intrigued or amused or “But [Diane] is warm and inviting and “Somebody like Kate who is kind excited or even provoked by the way I at the same time…she is as impressive of a curator for big personalities present myself. in the boardroom as when she is makes a huge difference in what WWD: Tell me about your approach volunteering.” consumers buy,” said Giberson. “And to style and how you incorporate at the Accessories Council, we know accessories, on the red carpet and off. that what celebrities wear counts. For H.B.: It usually starts with the socks. Diane someone who incorporates accessories I pick a color, and then choose the Sullivan in an excellent way, we know that suit (usually a suit) and everything Kate’s input does have an impact at else from there. I have always adored the cash register.” accessories — pocket squares, cuff links, tiepins, boutonnieres, hats, man DISTINGUISHED STYLE: OLIVIA PALERMO bags, purses, head scarves, heels. You The former reality TV star of “The name it, I’ve probably been there, even City,” a spin-off of MTV’s “The Hills,” when it was such a bad idea. I have has since become an “It” girl and trunks full of ties, drawers full of cuff has taken on an editorial role with front-row fashion-show fixture, model links, closets piled with hats. You can’t the launch of her online magazine, (as the face of Rochas’ Les Cascades move for accessories in my apartment. Destination Iman. “From her career de Rochas scent last year) and blogger You can never have enough. For me, as a model to her voice for diversity, it at her namesake lifestyle Web site, they aren’t the finishing touch, they doesn’t take much to look at her career oliviapalermo.com. are the first touch. Everything else is and see what she’s accomplished,” “With Olivia, you can’t open the subsidiary. said Giberson. weekly magazines without seeing a In 2010, the Council of Fashion photo of her and what she’s wearing, SPECIALTY RETAILER: CHARMING CHARLIE Designers of America awarded Iman how she’s put it together, how she Known for its value-priced jewelry, the Fashion Icon Award, a testament mixes things,” said Giberson. “That’s Charming Charlie has capitalized on to her innate sense of style. Iman told the fast-fashion trend. With a fleet of WWD that she learned about fashion more than 200 stores, the nine-year- on the job as a model and has never old brand is expanding its footprint used a stylist. “Accessories are the and since 2012 has been in the process stars in my closet and everything else has a supporting role,” she said. “I think accessories update and upgrade your look season after season. I love bold accessories from cuffs, rings and earrings — they give the ‘wow’ factor to a simple jeans and T-shirt look.”

STYLE AMBASSADOR: STACY KEIBLER Stacy Keibler, the model, actress and former professional wrestling Olivia Palermo personality and Baltimore Ravens cheerleader, has struck out on her own what ACE is about — it’s about how as a stylish fixture on the red carpet in to recognize those people who are recent years. making a difference at the consumer “She’s got an elegant look and level. She really embodies it.” always is extraordinarily well put A Charming Charlie store. together,” said Giberson. Keibler was DIGITAL INFLUENCER: LEANDRA MEDINE recently shot by Patrick Demarchelier The Man Repeller fashion blogger for NFL advertisements, and she with a cult following recently parlayed of tweaking its brand image. authors a wellness, health and beauty her experience into a new book, “Man With souped-up logos, branding RETAIL INNOVATION: WARBY PARKER site called SKphilosophy. She told Repeller: Seeking Love. Finding and advertising, Charming Charlie has Neil Blumenthal, co-ceo and cofounder WWD that style, for her, has been a Overalls,” which further established focused on accessories, which account of eyewear brand Warby Parker, learning process. her unique point of view. for about 85 percent of its sales, with has said that he wanted to launch a “Fashion has turned into a real love Giberson hailed her as the voice apparel accounting for the remaining company that could democratize the for me, and I’m continuing to get to of a generation with a pioneering 15 percent. price of glasses. “Our customers, like know that part of myself and grow and spirit, and said the Digital Influencer “The Charming Charlie girl buys most people, value quality and want evolve,” she said. “You have to learn category is a new one for the her accessories to make a statement to be treated fairly,” he told WWD. what works and doesn’t work for you Accessories Council. “I see the and stay on trend,” said ceo Charlie “A licensed pair of blandly designed and how to take something and make category continuing for us for years Chanaratsopon, who declined to sunglasses shouldn’t cost as much as an it your own. It’s important to maintain to come,” said Giberson. “I think give sales figures. “She also likes to iPhone. We’re able to provide beautiful an identity when it comes to style.” [Leandra] is an excellent example. I update an outfit in her closet with design with premium materials like like that she’s irreverent. She does new jewelry and accessories from custom acetate and Japanese titanium INFLUENCER: KATE YOUNG what she feels good about and doesn’t Charming Charlie.” for a fraction of what they’d cost from Celebrity stylist Kate Young, who speak for anybody else. She’s bold and another brand.” has worked with the likes of Natalie has a strong point of view.” 2x5 (left) 2x5 (right)

WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2013 9 WWD.COM innerwear Hanesbrands Outlines Maidenform Integration call late Wednesday. He said resented approximately 9 per- apparel companies, and they ago profits were $109.9 million, By Arnold J. KArr and the bulk of synergies follow- cent of total revenues. had the same corporate over- or $1.09. year-ago figures include KAryn Monget ing the acquisition will be from the acquisition latches on head.…It was just very difficult results for the european image- “the elimination of corporate to Hanesbrands — best known to be competitive long term.” wear business sold in May 2012. HAneSBrAndS InC. has big overhead and the absorption of for a portfolio of megabrands regarding further details of revenues were down 1.8 per- plans for Maidenform Brands. [Maidenform’s] distribution sup- including Champion, Hanes, the integration, Hall commented cent to $1.2 billion from $1.22 Following better-than-ex- ply-chain functions into our ex- Playtex, Bali, Wonderbra, that Maidenform had been at a billion and fell short of the pected profit results in the third isting low-cost global network.” Just My Size and l’eggs — a “disadvantage” because all of its consensus estimates for sales quarter, Hanesbrands outlined Hanesbrands expects of $1.24 billion. on a constant its plans and expectations last Maidenform to add more than currency basis, the decrease week for the Maidenform busi- $500 million to sales, $80 million was less than 1 percent, the firm ness. the company intends to to operating profit and 60 cents reported. gross margin grew to retain “more than half ” of the to its earnings per share within 35.2 percent of sales from 32.8 acquired company’s employees three years, according to noll. percent a year ago. around the world while clos- Part of the corporate down- “We had a great quarter with ing its offices in Iselin, n.J., sizing will be the elimination record earnings and strong mar- and its Fayetteville, n.C., dis- of the ceo post at Maidenform gins,” noll said in a conference tribution center by the end of in 2014, said Matt Hall, chief call. “our brands are gaining 2014. the company also plans communications officer for share, our supply chain is gen- to fold the Maidenform of- Hanesbrands and Maidenform. erating savings and our product fices and showrooms into its “Maurice reznik has gra- innovations are creating value.” new york headquarters in late ciously agreed to stay on with noll said that Hanesbrands’ 2014. Maidenform is located the integration, and is still in performance was strong enough at 200 Madison Avenue, and charge of day-to-day opera- to merit an increase in earnings Hanesbrands maintains two tions at Maidenform, so we don’t guidance “despite a soft retail locations in Manhattan: 260 take our eye off the ball. there environment.” Madison Avenue and 16 east will essentially not be a ceo of Full-year adjusted ePS is 34th Street. Maidenform because the com- An ad image from now expected to reach be- When the deal was disclosed pany’s brands will be integrated Maidenform, whose brand tween $3.75 and $3.85, up from by WWd in May, Maidenform into Hanesbrands’ portfolio,” power was a star attraction. the previous estimate of be- had 1,250 full-time employees said Hall. “the way we operate tween $3.50 and $3.65. Including Maidenform’s contribution of Maidenform brand roster that products were outsourced. approximately $120 million, Hanesbrands includes Maidenform, Flexees “Hanesbrands uses a blended sales are seen growing to above wants to woo and lilyette, as well as a li- model — 80 percent of bra pro- $4.6 billion versus the $4.55 bil- Millennials. censed designer intimates busi- duction and 90 percent of over- lion guidance provided earlier. ness under the donna Karan all production is at self-owned the guidance excludes acquisi- and dKny labels. facilities in Central America and tion-related charges and their Hall further noted that the Asia. the key is you have to have effect on Hanesbrands’ taxes. company’s “innovate-to-elevate” scale, big programs to bring it in- ePS in 2014 is now expected strategy plays an important role house,” he stated. to be in a range of $4.25 to $4.50, in how the branded business is Meanwhile, the disclosure of up from the approximately $4 managed and positioned in the plans for Maidenform accompa- estimated when second-quarter marketplace. nied third-quarter results that results were reported in July. “our gm’s are managers included the elevation of the For the nine months, net of product categories such as company’s full-year guidance. income more than tripled to classic bras, which includes In the three months ended $298.2 million, or $2.93 a diluted Playtex, Bali and Just My Size; Sept. 28, net income was up 14 share, from $84.3 million, or 84 socks by Hanes and Champion; percent to $125.3 million, or cents, in the comparable 2012 Bali and Flexees shapewear, $1.23 a diluted share, 10 cents period. revenues declined 0.9 and panties, which could be any better than the $1.13 expected, percent to $3.34 billion from of the brands,” explained Hall. on average, by analysts. year- $3.37 billion. “Maidenform is in the contem- porary bra category and skews to a little younger and more of an average-size consumer. Maidenform will become part of the Hanes, Barely there and Wonderbra businesses.” the main attraction for Hanesbrands was the strong brand recognition of the Maidenform name and its con- temporary appeal to Millennials — an area that Hanesbrands wants to build — as well as ex- pansion into a robust shapewear business with the Flexees label. “We asked, ‘What would be the most natural fit for in 62 countries. At the time, the our brands is a packaged goods Hanesbrands?’ It was clearly Winston-Salem, n.C.-based com- model of marketers who control Maidenform, with its extraordi- pany said it planned to bolster its the brands and have profit-loss narily strong brands that reso- branded Hanes and Champion responsibility. they serve as the nate with both retailers and businesses in the U.S. while shift- heads overseeing everything consumers.…Maidenform was ing its focus away from a mature from branding, merchandising, in the product categories that european market to emerging hot manufacturing, distribution and we were smaller in, like the con- spots in Asia and the Americas. product development. they es- temporary bra business, while La Lame, Exclusive Suppliers of Stretch Fabrics the $4.52 billion inner- sentially are the general manag- we were stronger in the classic wear and activewear power- ers of the business.” bra business for older consum- house finalized its purchase of reznik, who could not be ers, 35 years and older. We are Maidenform for approximately reached Friday, took over the now in a much stronger posi- STRETCH AND RIGID ALLOVER AND NARROW LACES, PVC LEATHER, SPACERS $583 million on oct. 7. top job at Maidenform in July tion to help our retail partners POWER MESH, MICROFIBER KNITS, METALLIC TULLE AND LACES, FOIL “We will keep the things they 2008, steering the 91-year-old compete in the intimate apparel GLITTER, FLOCK, EMBOSSING, BURNOUT PRINTS ON: MESH, TRICOT AND VELVETS do well — particularly intimate bra specialist through a dif- business,” Hall noted. NOVELTY ELASTIC TRIM: METALLIC, SHEER RUFFLES, LACE, PRINTS AND RHINESTONES sales, design and merchandising ficult recession by building Asked why Maidenform — but we rationalize where we and maintaining the global agreed to be acquired, Hall re- have a competitive advantage,” Maidenform brand, growing the plied, “Maidenform did nothing said richard noll, chairman direct-to-consumer business wrong to be acquired.…they La Lame and chief executive officer of and leveraging an international were a [smaller] company com- , Inc. Hanesbrands, on a conference platform, which at the time rep- peting with multibillion-dollar

w04a009a;8.indd 9 11/1/13 7:00 PM 11012013190058 10 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2013

that the owners of the gardens be hands- snapping turtles, bear and deer,” she says Richard Jenrette’s on in caring for them. Once, she went of America’s gardening challenges. Federal House, to see a likely prospect and was shown The beautiful, colorful, often very Edgewater. around by the garden designer. When green pictures in the book show off a she asked about the owners, however, the great variety of ideas and plantings. designer said that he had never met them. Duncan Brine, for instance, an art The garden was ruled out. director for a television series, created Gardens, she says, show as a garden for his wife Julia’s empty much about the personality of their backyard by planting seeds in concentric proprietors as apartments and houses circles — he ended up with a new do. “There’s no prescribed way to do a business in garden design. Now they have room,” she says. She also isn’t interested their own garden in Pawling that relies on in newly planted gardens, believing that native plants. Helen Bodian, for her part, they take time to grow. Her own garden created a large rock garden in Millerton, turned out to be more formal that she along with an inviting vegetable garden. expected; she particularly likes hedges Their architect Peter Gluck suggested and hornbeam. “I love green,” she says. that she follow the Japanese pattern of “I’m drawn to green.” repeating plants and arrangements on a British gardeners have it much easier different scale, and she did this. Secret Gardener than American ones, she believes. Britain, “The garden is essential to me, after all, has only one climate zone, while because it satisfies my urge to tamper America has many. “We have frost in May, with the land, and I don’t think that this is an urge that will ever leave me,” says THE SITTING ROOM in Jane Garmey’s and has written another book about Stephen Mazoh, who has contoured the apartment on New York’s West 55th private gardens — this one “Private A field of lilies. hills on his Rhinebeck place with trees Street is filled with amazing examples Gardens of Connecticut.” including magnolia, oak and red leaf of Russian Constructivist printed The writer, who is from Henley-on- maple, and made three linked ponds ephemera, from posters to book covers Thames, came to the U.S. as a young from an original pond on the property. to notices. There are also a lot of books woman, fell in love with New York and There’s also an apple orchard and a about the topic on the shelves. never left. For 12 years, she had swimming pool. John Driscoll’s Garrison This has nothing to do with her a television production company acres, originally created by architect new book, “Private Gardens with her friend Alice Trillin, the and industrial designer Paul Mayen, are of the Hudson Valley,” with eye late wife of Calvin Trillin. But full of pyramids, belvederes, pavilions, photographs by John M. Hall (The when Alice died in 2001, Garmey obelisks, fountains and a grotto. Monacelli Press). didn’t want to run the company “Our garden is the place I most want But although the collection by herself, so she began writing to be,” says Madeline Hooper, whose was put together by her late husband books. “She was a larger-than-life property is in Canaan. It’s the center of rather than herself, it shows her eclectic personality,” she says of Alice. our lives,” says her husband Ian. They taste, which is one of the underpinnings She describes some of her favorite have a lavender garden with walls of of her new book. So do her two Burmese plants: plecanthrus, Russian sage, hornbeam and a pool surrounded by a cats, the younger of whom, Pandora Box, tithonia, hydrangea, mountain mist, garden. Then they created a lake and is particularly friendly and personable. euphorbia and verbena. But she declines a bright sundial garden. Then there’s

Pandora insists on climbing on the to choose her favorite of the 26 gardens HALL Richard Eagen’s garden in Hudson, library ladder to be in the portrait she writes about in “Private Gardens M. which English garden writer Mirabel photos, occasionally ruining a shot of the Hudson Valley.” She chose them Osler might have been describing when JOHN

by showing her derriere. Garmey has partly by word of mouth, since the owners BY she says that a back garden has “a written about English food (“Great of one garden would suggest others to her. mysterious quality that lulls you into — LORNA KOSKI British Cooking: A Well-Kept Secret”) But she insisted on one qualifying detail: PHOTOS feeling secluded.”

Dwight D. Eisenhower, Queen Elizabeth II, with Robert F. Kennedy when Kennedy Truman Capote, Roman Polanski, Winston was gunned down by Sirhan Sirhan at Churchill, Halston, Valentino, Michael the Ambassador Hotel in Los Angeles. Sharper Jackson, the famine in Somalia, the Civil “Someone told him to go left. A girl in a Rights Movement and Robert F. Kennedy’s boater [hat] screamed and I just knew. assassination. Now, decades after he And there was Bobby kind of slow- started photographing fashion, Benson motion slumping to the ground. Then is back at it, with a hand in just-released the room goes mad.” Image films for Blue Pony and Jack of Spades. Benson said, “I was thinking, Don’t “Scatter My Ashes at Bergdorf ’s” mess up. Mess up tomorrow. I was EVEN WITH THREE upcoming creator Matthew Miele has been thinking, I was made for this. I had exhibitions of his photography and a interviewing Henry Kissinger, Dan worked for The Daily Express — Fleet documentary chronicling his career, Rather, Alec Baldwin, Carl Bernstein, Street. This is why I came into this Harry Benson prefers to keep himself Patti Davis, Kerry Kennedy, Charlotte business. You photograph what you see, out of the picture. Ronson, Donald Trump and others for and what you see should inform.” Seated in his apartment on a documentary about Benson. Their But the Scottish-born photographer Manhattan’s Upper East Side with willingness was a bit of a surprise. “You said being embedded with Irish his wife Gigi, the venerable lensman never expect people would do anything Republican Army paramilitaries — which explained, “I only like to talk for you because once I’m finished could have led to his being executed through my photographs. It’s because photographing people, I’m finished with — was one of the real scares he faced. photographs don’t lie. No, they don’t,” them. I’m not there as a friend. I don’t Flying over Cape Horn, Chile, in search before adding with a laugh, “Well, maybe want someone calling me up saying later, of the solo circumnavigator Sir Francis ‘Oh, be a friend. Chichester was another. “Do Please don’t use you think we found him? A shot from that picture of FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE No. I got a telegram from Jack of Spades. me in the bubble WWD.com/eye. Frank Spooner at The Daily bath,’” he said. Express that said, ‘Rebase. Benson will The party’s over,’” Benson wing it to Sofia, said. “Party? We were flying Kate Moss backstage at Vivienne Westwood in 1993. Bulgaria, for the Dec. 5 practically in an upside-down plane. The opening-night party of a show waves would practically come up to meet was an intimidation in fashion. Here of his work at the Vivacom you. And it was one of my big defeats, was [Yves] Saint Laurent, who was so Art Hall, and in February because I never got him.” important. I would have been better off to he will touch down for his While shooting fashion for WWD and just let go [when shooting fashion]. I wish first London show at Mallett others in the Sixties, Benson did get to be I had done that then,” he said. “Basically, Antiques’ Ely House. Benson’s friendly with such designers as Halston you try not to take boring photos. It is BENSON photos of the Fab Four having and Valentino. Recalling an American taking the fashion into the streets, which

HARRY a pillow fight in their suite at Vogue assignment to shoot a new really is what Women’s Wear was all

BY the George V in Paris after store in New York, Benson recalled, about when I worked there.” learning their record was “Ashley Judd was walking about. She was With every intention to keep working,

PHOTOS number one in America will pretty, kind of not saying much. They say Benson said his philosophy is pretty go on view in June at the hotel Armani can’t speak English. They asked straightforward. “Don’t get overwrought. now they do, with all the digital stuff.” (which is now a Four Seasons). me what I wanted to do, and I didn’t know. I’m respectful and I have always dressed Having touched down in New York Recalling that first flight he took to I said, ‘It would be good to get Ashley conservatively,” Benson said. “If I’m on with The Beatles to capture their 1964 the States with The Beatles, he said as Judd in the store window with no top on the second floor of the White House in a American tour, Benson said, “I never happy as they were, “They were a bit with you.’ Armani said, ‘That’s fine.’” pair of dungarees and a flak jacket, I’m really left” (though there was a side trip concerned. It was only two months after Benson’s friend Joseph DeAcetis (who not going anywhere. I always wore a suit, to Jamaica to shoot James Bond creator John F. Kennedy’s assassination. They is also Forbes’ style director) persuaded and it gave me pockets to carry my lenses. Ian Fleming). were saying things like, ‘You have to him to get involved with the Blue Pony I tell photographers today, ‘I wouldn’t let His expansive portfolio includes keep an eye out for the college boys.’” and Jack of Spades projects. As for what’s you in my house — never mind the White images of every U.S. president since Four years later, Benson was walking changed, the photographer said, “There House.’” — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG 2.5x7 (right)

WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2013 11 WWD.COM

and Rockaway Beach, areas hit hard by Superstorm Sandy. Immediately following Vogue Italia is launching a new MeMo pad the storm, Americana donated $100,000 to app for iPad. Fashion scoops the American Red Cross and held a drive AWARDING COuRAGE: “With regard to the to gather supplies for families in need. death of journalism, it’s totally bogus,” “We wanted to send a message of ONGOING PROBE: Last week, New York party to celebrate the launch of Kenzo’s said Glamour’s editor in chief Cindi Leive continued support by bringing our business Every month an interactive Attorney General Eric T. Schneiderman Kalifornia bag. “We came out to an during the International Women’s Media and our attention to the shore one year replica of the Italian magazine asked Macy’s and Barneys New York area where I felt like I was coming Foundation’s Courage in Journalism later,” said Andrea Sanders, senior vice will be available for purchase on to provide information about their into a warehouse to be murdered,” Awards ceremony last week at the president and creative director. “There’s AppleStore.com. Starting Thursday, policies for detaining and questioning said Carrie Brownstein, who set aside her Beverly Hills Hotel. As proof, Leive, who still a lot of work to be done in those areas, the November issue will be sold their customers based on race and “Portlandia” persona to cohost the cohosted the ceremony with Olivia Wilde, which we witnessed. We’re calling attention at 4.49 euros, or $6.18 at current set a deadline for Friday. According dinner along with Gia Coppola, Rashida pointed to the four award recipients: back to that area and showing how exchange rate ( compared with 5 to a source close to Jones, China Chow and Riley Najiba Ayubi, director of The Killid Group important the shore is to our communities, euros, or $6.90, at newstands). the investigation, “The For more Keough. Other attendees in Afghanistan; Nour Kelze, a photographer in a subtle way.” Charles DeCaro, co-owner Attorney General’s Civil scoops, see included Gillian Jacobs, Miranda for Reuters in Syria; Bopha Phorn, a of Laspata DeCaro, said, “It was really a Rights Bureau has begun July, Devon Aoki, Rose McGowan, reporter for The Cambodia Daily, and celebration of this part of American culture to receive documents WWD.com Jessica Alba and Fergie. Edna Machirori, the first black female editor that was on the brink of oblivion and is back “I believe in technology, from both companies and After recent travels had of a newspaper in Zimbabwe, who was better than ever.” Models Lindsey Wixson and immediacy, experimentation,” said is actively interviewing them in Shanghai, Hong recognized for a lifetime of achievement. RJ King brought a playful youthfulness to Vogue Italia editor-in-chief Franca witnesses.” — LISA LOCKWOOD Kong, Paris and New York, Lim “Even though they grew up in these the campaign, which includes shots of the Sozzani. “I believe that this app and Leon were happy to take a breather cultures where maybe as women they two riding bumper cars, Wixson in front of includes all these elements.” SANTA’S LITTLE HELPER: The Printemps in their native Southern California and weren’t encouraged to work or grew up the Parachute Jump, an iconic no-longer- Christmas ad campaign may feature Eva commemorate the bag, which they spent under governments that didn’t consider functioning ride, and with balloons outside Herzigova flanked by men in about a year-and-a-half developing. “We journalism acceptable and dismissed Luna Park at Coney Island. costumes, but the store has called on were really trying to create something or threatened journalists, they still are A two-minute video has a slightly darker Vogue Italia’s digital version another glamorous blonde to inaugurate that would be very iconic for the brand. putting themselves out there to do it. It take on Coney Island with graffiti and won’t only reproduce the print its Christmas window displays: Gwyneth The brand traditionally is known as a makes you feel that we all as humans have slightly rusted signs. — SHARON EDELSON one, but will also offer additional Paltrow. The “Iron Man” star will be at ready-to-wear brand, and what’s exciting this drive to tell this truth,” said Leive. content along with a deep interactive the retailer’s Boulevard Haussmann for us is we get to define what happens The award recipients couldn’t imagine EXPANDING THEIR WEB: The British edition experience. For example, tapping flagship on Thursday to help unveil its with accessories,” said Lim. Leon added, doing anything else. Upon receiving her of Wired plans to launch its first monthly on the cover, readers will have Prada-themed windows, featuring the “Carol and I always talk a bag that had award, Ayubi said, “Journalism is not my digital replica edition built specifically access to the runway show videos Milanese fashion house’s signature an ease to it. The bag has ease and job. It is my life. Standing here, I would for the iPhone using Adobe Experience of the brands featured in a shoot. In teddy bears and checkered patterns. function and also something that felt like to renew my commitment to freedom Manager technology, Condé Nast U.K. addition, they will be able to enjoy Paltrow follows in the footsteps of Marion super Kenzo that was very recognizable.” of expression in my country.” said, while iPhone interactive editions the issue’s editorials in a landscape Cotillard and Vanessa Paradis. Each of the dinner guests had the Phorn explained her dedication to for GQ, Glamour and Vanity Fair will vision. — JOELLE DIDERICH bag hanging from their chairs to take journalism simply: “I believe I can make follow in the first quarter of next year. home, but that wasn’t the only cause for change.” Stewarding the event that paid The company also unveiled the Condé HEY DOLL: Isaac Mizrahi is in a playful excitement. Four female skateboarders tribute to female journalists overcoming Nast Digital Studio, an extension of its mood. Xcel Brands has signed an — Nora Vasconcellos, Eliana Sosco, Lizzie challenges to pursue their work, Wilde said, Custom Solutions Department. The studio “With this important launch, exclusive licensing agreement with The Armanto and Vanessa Torres — showed was “a very personal honor for me because aims to provide multiplatform digital Condé Nast completes its portfolio Alexander Doll Co. to create a selection off their skills around The Berrics my mother [Leslie Cockburn] is a journalist creative services for advertisers. “It will of digital magazines for iPad and of Madame Alexander dolls, doll and then on the dinner tables-turned- and has worked in many dangerous war provide a design agency style service the Vogue system,” said Condé apparel and doll accessories under the skateboard ramps. In a scary moment, zones and has dedicated her life to this to clients who require digital support, Nast Italia senior vice president Isaac Mizrahi New York label. one of the skateboarders took a tumble work. I leapt at the opportunity to be able to including the creation of enhanced digital consumer marketing print and off a table. Fortunately, no one was hurt honor women doing that around the world. ads for tablet magazine editions, as well as digital Marco Formento. “Vogue by the fall; the skateboarder quickly It was a perfect fit for me, and I couldn’t Web creative for all devices from desktop Italia’s interactive replica can recovered to loud applause. Tempting have been more grateful that they wanted down to mobile,” said Jamie Jouning, digital definitely be listed among the as it was, Leon and Lim weren’t about me to be a part of it.” When the event director of Condé Nast U.K. The studio most interesting novelties in the to follow her in riding around the wrapped up, Lubov Azria summed up the is already open, and has done work for digital publishing scenario thanks place. “I grew up trying to skateboard feelings of many in the room by saying, “It advertisers including Bentley, Hennes & to the fact that it fuses a strong and getting made fun of,” said Leon. was humbling. It was absolutely humbling.” Mauritz, Marks & Spencer, Cisco and Shell. cultural heritage with a high- Staying on the safer side, Lim said, “I — RACHEL BROWN The company also said that traffic end technological quality.” _ by kind of stuck to roller-skating.” across the Condé Nast Web sites in the Alessandra Turra. — RACHEL BROWN AFTER THE STORM: Coney Island never U.K. has grown from a monthly average of looked as good as in Americana 860,000 unique users in 2007 to a monthly L&T HOLIDAY WINDOWS: Lord & Taylor will Manhasset’s hyper-realistic holiday/ average of 8.3 million unique users today. unveil its holiday windows at its Fifth resort book and advertising campaign, In addition, the social media footprint for Avenue flagship on Nov. 13 at 5:30 p.m. bursting with bright color. The luxury the Condé Nast brands continues to grow, The 16-inch Madame Alexander doll under The event will include a shopping center in Manhasset, N.Y., was rising from a combined total of 753,000 the Isaac Mizrahi New York label. performance by Fifth Harmony, inspired by Northeast beach communities in 2011 to 4.4 million to date in 2013, the which just released its new album such as Coney Island, Atlantic Beach company said. — SAMANTHA CONTI The deal consists of both “Better Together.” Fifth Harmony is collectable and play dolls: Cissy, the the five-member American girl group iconic 21-inch couture collectible doll assembled by Simon Cowell on the ($1,000 retail); a 16-inch contemporary second season of “The X Factor.” fashion collectible doll ($200), and an On the same day at the flagship, 18-inch play doll ($70). purchasers of a $5 ticket will be The doll collection will launch entitled to exclusive savings at the at the American International Toy store. The donation will help the Fair in New York in February. The organization God’s Love We Deliver. For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. dolls will be sold at specialty and — VICKI M. YOuNG department stores, as well as select Web sites and madamealexander.com. BIRTHDAY SuIT: In celebration of its “Working with Madame Alexander upcoming 60th anniversary, Playboy is a dream for me,” said Mizrahi. has partnered with Japanese “They have always represented the streetwear brand Hysteric Glamour highest-quality and most beautiful to release a line of retro-tinged dolls in the world.” casual clothing for men and women. Gale Jarvis, president of The The range is already available at SALES ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Leading Branded Accessory / Hosiery Madame Alexander Doll Co., noted Hysteric Glamour stores in Japan, Company seeks a motivated Account that the Madame Alexander and will go on sale on the Executive with 2 - 3 years experience Subscribe * They will partner with Buyers and Co. is celebrating its 90th Japanese brand’s U.S. analyze Sales Trends, visit stores, anniversary this year, and e-commerce site, recommend Assortments and monitor today! stock to sales relationship. * Directly has worked many with hystericglamourshop. responsible for the growth of key stra- tegic accounts to ensure Brand Image top fashion designers com, by December. and Distribution are effectively admin- designing dolls and doll- The Playboy istered. * Develop and maintain posi- tive relationships with account Buying size outfits. — L.L. collection will Call 800.289.0273 and Management organizations. * include T-shirts, Communicate regularly with our Man- for individual agement and Customer Service on LOST IN L.A.: Google sweatshirts, Market, Product and Account needs Maps and GPS’s were cardigans, pants, Requirements: subscriptions, * Proven track record to effectively in- tested Wednesday skirts and shoes, crease sales *Excellent Communica- tion, written & presentation skills night when partygoers and will be priced or email *Strategic planning and organizational attempted to locate between $100 and skills * Candidate must be aggressive, enthusiastic & well organized. Com- The Berrics, the $1,000. Prints will [email protected] pensation package includes salary & indoor skate park feature vintage commissions. Email: resume & cover letter: [email protected] in downtown photographs of Los Angeles that Playboy bunnies Humberto Leon and and other iconic Carol Lim chose as Playboy imagery. (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] the venue for a A Playboy — KELLY dinner and after sweatshirt. WETHERILLE

w04a011a.indd 11 11/3/13 3:21 PM 11032013152233 12 WwD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2013 WWD.COM Cyber Monday: Not Just One Day

{Continued from page one} shift both the schedule of holiday the concept of Black Friday as a Even though it seems unlike- “Everyone wants to shop [shopping] and then literally how shopping event that spawned the ly that most people will wait to online; they just want to know boxes and packages make their Cyber Monday mind-set. He said shop until Monday — when they when they or the person [they way to where they need to go.” shoppers have taken a slightly can purchase from their phones got it for] is going to get the gift,” At eBay last year, the big- different tack each year and and tablets after Thanksgiving Einhorn said. “In our mind, gest mobile sales day occurred that sales once concentrated on dinner, Black Friday and it’s not Cyber Monday — it’s closer to Christmas. And while Friday and Monday are begin- throughout that weekend — the holiday season starting on most experts are still hesitant to Thanksgiving Day, and it doesn’t call Cyber Monday antiquated. end on Cyber Monday.” “I wouldn’t say Cyber On a day two weeks ago, Web site Einhorn said convenience Monday isn’t important,” said Fancy surpassed its sales of last has long been the problem with Scott Falzone, industry director year’s Cyber Monday. digital commerce and that or- of retail at Google Inc. “It con- dering online just never felt the tinues to be important, but the Demandware has found that same as buying something in whole week is.” while sales on Cyber Monday store if it arrived several days Mobile devices were a real continue to increase at a ma- later. But with same-day deliv- driver of heavy online sales terial rate, Black Friday over ery, consumers can now get the on Thanksgiving Day last year, the last four years has actually satisfaction once previously said Falzone, noting, “[People grown by 5 percentage points limited to the brick-and-mortar were shopping] in between greater than Cyber Monday. shopping experience. Fancy breaks at the table or waiting Garf acknowledged that while launched same-day delivery in for the next course.” the fourth quarter and holiday sea- 100 cities globally on July 30. This year, he expects Black son represent the bulk of sales vol- “We’re hoping we can turn Friday to be the biggest mo- ume for retailers, companies are the entire holiday season into bile shopping day, just as it relying less on just a few days. He one very long Cyber Monday, was in 2012. said holiday sales are now spread hopefully without the dis- “It still plays an important out over a more extended period counts,” Einhorn said. EBay’s biggest sales day in 2013 occurred closer to Christmas. role, but the digital strategy — flattening out across several Steve Yankovich, vice pres- doesn’t revolve solely around days, most notably Black Friday. ident, innovation and new Yankovich admits that Cyber ning to spread out, picking up Cyber Monday,” said Rob (This year, however, there are six ventures at eBay Inc., said Monday might not be the biggest the week before Christmas, Garf, vice president of prod- fewer shopping days between consumers now have better online shopping day any longer, which rivals Cyber Monday in uct and solutions marketing of Thanksgiving and Christmas than fulfillment options and can re- it still creates consumer aware- terms of sales volume. Demandware. there were last year). ceive product in as little as one ness. He believes Cyber Monday “What’s happening now — we Based on data collected from “Revenue growth between hour after ordering. isn’t going away anytime soon call it Cyber Week,” Welty said. the cloud-based commerce Black Friday and Christmas is “We’re going to see more ways even as he noted that Black “It starts around Thanksgiving platform, which works with cli- essentially equal to revenue for people to discover, find and Friday has become equally as and goes for a week following. It’s ents like Brooks Brothers, Elie growth for the remainder of buy the product, and more ways important for e-commerce. spreading, it’s evening out and we Tahari, L’Oréal, Tory Burch and the year,” Garf said. “The tide

to get it into their hands wher- Bruce Welty, ceo of Quiet see a big spike in shopping that Puma, there are other days in is rising equally, and the digital ever they are,” Yankovich said. Logistics, an e-commerce fulfill- week. It’s still a little bit concen- the year that are becoming just sales for that time period aren’t “We’re taking delivery in such a ment company that works with trated on Monday, but every year as important as Cyber Monday, if increasing at a higher rate than way that it’s going to continue to Zara and Gilt Groupe, said it was it’s spreading out more.” not more so. the rest of the year.”

Obituary Lawrence Marcus Dead at 96 two days without’’ water in the during and shortly after World

By Holly Haber desert to reach his company, War II, he resourcefully bought es g ma

which had presumed him dead, upholstery for automobiles — I Lawrence Eliot “Lawrie” according to the Morning whose production had practi- Marcus, the fourth son of News. Marcus was decorated cally stopped — as well as piece Neiman Marcus cofounder with two Purple Hearts and two goods from the men’s market Herbert Marcus and a for- French Croix de guerre. and had them stitched into tai-

mer executive vice president Discharged in 1944, Marcus lored suits and dresses. Marcus Pictures/Getty

of the retailer, died Friday returned to Neiman’s to be tu- also pioneered the use of silk Life ime

at UT Southwestern-St. Paul tored for six months in New dupioni for ready-to-wear in the T // University Hospital of kidney York by the exacting buyer late Forties and early Fifties by n Lee

and heart disease. He was 96. Moira Cullen, who is credited importing it from Italy. a with establishing the retailer’s In 1966, he moved to Houston n “I am saddened by the pass- Ni

ing of Lawrence Marcus,” said style with company cofounder to energize the languishing by Karen Katz, president and chief Carrie Marcus Neiman. downtown store and supervise

executive officer of Neiman Photo Marcus Group. “He was an idea From left, Herbert Marcus and his sons , Lawrence Marcus and man and a master of market- Herbert Marcus Jr., owners of the Neiman Marcus department store, in 1945. ing who often called me to talk [Lawrence Marcus] was an idea about the latest trends in retail- ing several years later. It was not the most profitable ing. I will miss his thoughtful man and a master of marketing who He was known for his sense thing, but it was our way of reflections on the store.…He of humor, once dispatching a proving our humility and grate- was a connoisseur of luxury and mink-lined athletic supporter as fulness to customers for coming elegance. In fact, I spied him often called me to talk about the a holiday gift to a G.I. in Korea in to shop.” not long ago in the store perus- who had requested it jokingly at Such grace was a hallmark ing a book on the history of the latest trends in retailing. the end of a long order. of Marcus’ persona. A refined Fendi baguette bag.” “Lawrence had a dry wit and gentleman, Marcus collect- Marcus joined the family — karen katz, neiman marcus group a mischievous streak that he ed Asian and contemporary business in 1942 after earning expressed most recently in his art, was an avid photogra- bachelor’s and master’s degrees choice of raucous socks paired pher and wrote a ballet to a in business at Harvard, but with- Though Lawrence was per- construction of the Houston back to tasteful glen plaids and Tchaikovsky piece he heard at in six months he was commis- petually in the shadow of his Galleria unit that replaced it in tweeds,” Katz noted. the Dallas Symphony. sioned to serve in the U.S. Army brother Stanley’s leadership 1970, paying meticulous atten- Marcus embraced his father’s Marcus is survived by his in North Africa during World and marketing theatrics, he tion to furnishings and artwork. philosophy of stocking top qual- wife, Shelby; two children from War II. Marcus had a reputation made important and innovative In his book “Minding the ity regardless of price, as well as his first marriage to Nancy as “quite a pistol” and once shot contributions to the retailer. Store,” Stanley Marcus credited his populist insistence on offer- Filgo, Cary Marcus of Clear down a strafing German airplane Lawrence Marcus elevated his brother’s fine taste, merchan- ing tasteful, less pricy goods to Lake, Tex., and Judy Marcus with a gun on a tank destroyer, the women’s designer business dising ability and active role in dress a broader demographic. of Dallas; a stepson, James according to the book “Neiman- to high profit levels through his Houston’s civic and social scenes “We kept that anachronistic Stroope of Houston; two step- Marcus, Texas: The Story of the ingenuity and eye for talent. with making the store “an over- posture for many years, and daughters, Lisa Browning of Proud Dallas Store” by Frank He was ’s first cus- whelming success.” what does it mean?” Marcus Dallas and Tinna Stroope of X. Tolbert. tomer, and helped launch the Lawrence Marcus returned once asked. “That with all our Troy, Mich.; one grandchild, and He also escaped from enemy careers of James Galanos and to Dallas in 1978’’ to manage the arrogance that we devoted to two great-grandchildren. lines by sauntering slowly . downtown flagship and serve as high-price merchandise, we Services were not set at through them and walking for When fabrics were scarce executive vice president, retir- had humility. It was symbolic. press time.

w04a012a.indd 12 11/3/13 3:29 PM 11032013153004