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Quiet Beauty OSCAR’S CELEBRATING LAWRENCE WORLD CHANEL MARCUS OSCAR DE LA RENTA DIANE KRUGER JOINED UNVEILS A LEASED KARL LAGERFELD IN SÃO DEAD AT 96 DEPARTMENT IN PAULO IN THE LATEST LEG BLOOMINGDALE’S 59TH OF “THE LITTLE BLACK STREET FLAGSHIP. PAGE 3 JACKET” EXHIBIT. PAGE 3 PAGE 12 HOLIDAY ONLINE Cyber Monday Becomes Cyber-All-the-Time By RACHEL STRUGATZ FORGET CYBER MONDAY — now it’s Cyber Week, or even Cyber Month. WWD As digital sales continue to grab an ever-larger part of the holiday retail pie, the onslaught of on- line shopping is starting earlier and earlier. As in MONDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2013 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY 2012, holiday e-commerce and mobile sales this year are expected to kick off on Thanksgiving Day — but experts predict more transactions will occur this Thanksgiving than ever before — and the boom will continue into Black Friday and through the weekend. Cyber Monday sales last year rose 21.7 percent to $1.25 billion, according to ComScore, with some 10 million consumers shopping online and spend- Quiet ing $125 on average. The term “Cyber Monday” was coined by Shop.org in 2005, long before high-speed Internet and mobile commerce were easily acces- sible and when consumers relied on the broadband Internet in their offices to make purchases after the long weekend. Now improvements in fulfillment — like same- day delivery — as well as increased smartphone Beauty penetration and mobile usage are contributing to one long cyber shopping period that starts on Thanksgiving and carries through to the days lead- A subdued color palette, dash of ing up to Christmas. “Cyber Monday is like this digital innovation lace and modest cut send a message where people are trying to do a modern take on the of understated elegance for spring. old kind of Black Friday holiday — but Cyber Monday Here, Elle Macpherson Intimates’ is already out of date,” said Joseph Einhorn, chief ex- ecutive officer of e-tailer Fancy. silk and elastane bra and briefs The site’s biggest day last year came on Cyber worn with necklaces from Monday, when it took in $133,000 in sales. Two weeks ago, Einhorn said, the site did $185,000 — with no BARE Express. For more, see marketing or holiday promotion involved. The dis- WWD.com/fashion-news. covery-based e-tail platform has raised $78 million RACHEL in funding and started selling product in March 2012. SEE PAGE 12 ASSISTANT: FASHION Sadove and Frasch: ZHU; ZHE The Exit Interview ASSISTANT: By DAVID MOIN PHOTO NEWMAN-REDFORD. Batman-Robin. Sadove-Frasch. GOETZ; In retailing, it’s been a great fit. Stephen I. Sadove + — the marketing and consumer products whiz who turned retailer in 2004 when he found himself in MALIN the role of Saks Fifth Avenue’s chief operating offi- FOR cer, and two years later, chairman and chief execu- tive officer to fill the leadership void and stabilize the business. And Ron Frasch, a consummate merchant KOHLHAGEN whose strong connections to designers kept Saks in the game through difficult times. Frasch has been ANNE BY Saks’ president and chief merchant since February 2007. He joined in 2004 in a non-merchant role due to a non-compete agreement with his previous employer, MAKEUP Bergdorf Goodman. The expected closing today of Hudson’s Bay Co.’s REDKEN; deal to buy Saks Inc. for $2.9 billion also brings to an end the Sadove-Frasch story at Saks, after a 10-year USING association. Their last day at Saks was Friday, bring- ing a sense of major accomplishment as well as a DUPREY sense of some unfinished business. CARI In a frank and wide-ranging joint interview at the BY corporate office days before, Sadove and Frasch ex- HAIR pressed sadness about leaving Saks, and acknowl- edged they would have liked more time to further the turnaround they orchestrated. They detailed how they rebuilt a business that was dysfunctional, compared Saks with its arch rival Neiman Marcus, recounted some of the highs and lows of their stew- CHARMIE/WILHELMINA; ardship and were clear in saying that they are leaving Saks Fifth Avenue on firm footing. PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE AT THE CROSBY STREET HOTEL; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY MODEL: SEE PAGE 4 2 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2013 WWD.COM Vince Boosts International Push THE BRIEFING BOX IN TODAY’S WWD partners in Benelux and Scandinavia to get Vince By DAVID MOIN into more retail doors and possibly to open free- standing stores. “Those are big growth territories NEW YORK — With its initial public offering just for us,” where the focus will be on wholesale dis- around the corner, Vince is stepping up its interna- tribution at least initially, Granoff said. “We have Cory Kennedy at tional game. had broad distribution in Europe for a long time. Terry Richardson’s On the agenda: freestanding stores outside the Scandinavia and Benelux rounds out the distribu- Halloween party. U.S. for the first time, forming overseas partner- tion model.” For more, see ships for brick-and-mortar and wholesale growth, In 2012, Vince’s international revenues ac- WWD.com. accelerating in-store shop development and estab- counted for 8 percent of total sales. For the first lishing a showroom in Paris. six months of 2013, international is tracking at 10 The brand’s first international store opened Oct. 17 percent of sales. Vince’s total volume, at retail, was in Tokyo. The second will open in Istanbul by the end about $500 million last year. “We are seeing some of the first quarter of 2014. Both are licensed units. nice traction and momentum in the international “We have created a long-term strategy for interna- marketplace,” Granoff said. tional,” Jill Granoff, chief executive officer of Vince From country to country, there’s not much and its parent company Kellwood Co., told WWD. change in the product, Damavandi said, with the EICHNER “First, we want to increase penetration in our exception of the range of sizes, including offering key existing markets — Canada, the U.K. as well as double extra-small, which is particularly relevant STEVE Japan and Korea,” she added. “In addition, we are for Asian markets. The contemporary brand con- BY selectively entering new markets. Our strategy is tinues to add categories, with kids in the works for PHOTO to increase wholesale penetration and selectively next fall, and has been elevating its fashion recent- open shops-in-shop and a few freestanding stores. ly with some edgier, higher-priced items like fur We are looking at major metro markets around jackets, to augment core offerings such as sweaters, the world, always on high-end fashion streets or T-shirts, tanks, leggings and ponte pants. As digital sales continue to grab an ever-larger part of the neighborhoods as well In Paris, “We are holiday retail pie, the online shopping onslaught is starting as A-plus malls. We looking to open a show- earlier and earlier. Page 1 want to be adjacent to room to really get our top designer brands European growth going Stephen I. Sadove and Ron Frasch sit down for a frank and and advanced contem- quickly,” Damavandi wide-ranging interview on their exit from Saks Inc. Page 1 porary brands. It’s a said. It’s expected that multiprong approach one will open next year. With its initial public offering just around the corner, Vince with multiple formats Vince has just has one is stepping up its international game. Page 2 in multiple markets. We showroom, in New York. want to convey that we The 1,615-square- Oscar de la Renta has opened a leased department at are on the move.” foot Tokyo store, in the Bloomingdale’s 59th Street flagship in New York. Page 3 Vince launched in Omotesando district, the international mar- mirrors the design of Karl Lagerfeld made his first visit to Brazil to unveil the latest Vince’s Mercer Street ketplace in Japan in leg in the traveling exhibition “The Little Black Jacket.” Page 3 2005 with Itochu Corp. flagship in SoHo in Over the years, distribu- New York. It’s situated tion expanded to Isetan in a clean, modern, Profiles of the Accessories Council Excellence Award and Mitsukoshi in Inside the new cast concrete building honorees, who will be handed their trophies tonight at Cipriani Japan and other retail- Tokyo store. with large, rectangular 42nd Street in New York City. Page 6 ers around the world. bronze framed windows Currently, Vince sells in that provide natural Hanesbrands Inc. intends to retain “more than half” of 43 countries with 537 points of distribution at high- light. Custom antique bronze hang-bar fixtures line Maidenform’s employees while closing its Iselin, N.J., offices and end department stores and specialty stores. the long walls, and the reclaimed white oak flooring, Fayetteville, N.C., distribution center by the end of 2014. Page 9 “Shops-in-shop showcase the brand in a better bleached African mahogany wall panels, sculptural light,” said Rebecca Damavandi, group president, cube fixtures to display mannequins and folded Jane Garmey discusses her new book, “Private Gardens of the global business development. Installing them de- product, étagères to house footwear and accesso- Hudson Valley,” which showcases her eclectic tastes. Page 10 pends on what the host retailer can provide in ries, and lighted shelving to accentuate product de- terms of space and adjacencies. Currently, there tails reflect the Mercer Street design. The store sells Harry Benson talks about his three upcoming shows, a are eight shops-in-shop overseas, including six in Vince’s women’s ready-to-wear, as well as boots, documentary about his life and getting back into fashion.
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