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Bold Strategy on the Collection, See Page 6 Page 1 Tuesday S EYE:1BSUZJOH RETAIL: BXBZJO$BOOFT *OEVTUSZKPC QBHF S QSPTQFDUT FASHION: CSJHIUFO 5IFMBUFTUGVS GPSDPMMFHF MPPLTGSPN HSBET QBHFT ;BD1PTFO BOE S QBHF S NEWS:5IFWFSEJDUPOi4FYBOEUIF$JUZ wQBHF 8PNFOT8FBS%BJMZt5IF3FUBJMFST%BJMZ/FXTQBQFSt.BZ t WWDTUESDAYReady-to-Wear/Textiles Bold Strategy NEW YORK — Surf’s up. The cruise season is off to a bold start, as Tomas Maier, creative director of Bottega Veneta, presents a geometric-cut lineup of vibrant Ts, breezy dresses and exposed-seam skirts. Here, a rash guard-inspired, viscose top and cotton skirt, worn with leather sandals and a lambskin belt and bag. For more on the collection, see page 6. Breaking the Mold: Estée Lauder to Buy Smashbox Cosmetics By Molly Prior 5)&&45&-"6%&3$04*/$)"4 HPOF)PMMZXPPE OBCCJOHUIFQIPUPTUVEJP CPSONBLFVQDPNQBOZ4NBTICPY#FBVUZ $PTNFUJDT*ODJOBCJEUPNPWFEFFQFSJOUPUIF GBTUHSPXJOH BMUFSOBUJWFSFUBJMDIBOOFMBOE HBJOFOUS¹FJOUPUIFEJHJUBMNFEJBTQBDF -BVEFSTBJE.POEBZJUIBTTJHOFEB EFGJOJUJWFBHSFFNFOUUPCVZUIF-PT"OHFMFT CBTFENBLFVQCSBOE GPVOEFEJOCZ %FBOBOE%BWJT'BDUPS UIFHSFBUHSBOETPOT PGMFHFOEBSZ)PMMZXPPENBLFVQBSUJTU.BY 'BDUPS5IFBDRVJTJUJPOJODMVEFTBNJOPSJUZ TUBLFJO4NBTICPY4UVEJPT UIF-PT"OHFMFT QIPUPGBDJMJUZTUBSUFECZUIF'BDUPSCSPUIFST JO5IFEFBMJTFYQFDUFEUPDMPTFJO +VMZ TVCKFDUUPDFSUBJODPOEJUJPOT JODMVEJOH SFHVMBUPSZBQQSPWBM See Estée, Page7 PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE BY PHOTO 2 WWD, TUESDAY, MAY 18, 2010 WWD.COM Saks to Close Unit in Charleston By David Moin WWDTUESReady-to-Wear/TextilesDAY SAKS FIFTH AVENUE WILL CLOSE BY JULY ITS 33,000-SQUARE-FOOT STORE IN THE FASHION 225,000-square-foot Majestic Square development in Charleston, S.C., and hand over the lease to trendy fashion specialty retailer Forever 21. 6 Resort is off to a bold start, as Tomas Maier, creative It’s another sign that Saks is intent on weeding out weak units to focus resources on healthier, director of Bottega Veneta, presented a lineup of more productive stores, and that the L.A.-based, Korean-owned Forever 21 is eager to take over vibrant Ts, breezy dresses and exposed-seam skirts. locations. Aside from the Saks unit, Forever 21 has taken over former locations of Mervyns and Gottschalks, among other retailers. GENERAL In the Nineties, Saks went on an expansion spree, and in some cases picked the wrong loca- 1 The Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. has gone Hollywood, tions or sites that were too small. Saks earlier this year said it would close the men’s and women’s nabbing the photo-studio born makeup company units it operates in Portland, Ore., and a unit in San Diego in July. “Every time we make a store Smashbox Beauty Cosmetics Inc. closing, we think it through very carefully,” Stephen I. Sadove, chairman and chief executive of- 3 Balenciaga has rented 54 Main Street in East ficer of Saks Inc., told WWD. “We think through strategically the growth potential and the implica- Hampton, a 900-square-foot space that was tions of the store closing. People and jobs are affected.” formerly occupied by Brooks Brothers. Sadove declined to comment on whether any more stores would close this year. Long term, he said, “It’s not going to be a large number of stores….In the ordinary course of business, we evaluate the 8 Paige Adams-Geller, the former fit model who productivity, profitability and potential for each of our stores and may determine it is appropriate to founded Paige Premium Denim LLC in 2004, close a store from time to time.” has branched into leather sportswear. About 60 associates work in the Charleston store. They will either be offered transfer opportu- During the recession, many firms pulled back from nities or will receive severance packages. “Store-closing decisions are never easy,” Sadove said. S 12 campuses and put the brakes on their recruiting. Adding to the complications are lease agreements with landlords. Saks must either wait for a Some have slowly returned to hiring, but not lease to expire, transfer a lease to another retailer or make some other arrangement with a landlord to get out of a location. In addition to the 53 Saks Fifth Avenue stores, Saks operates 55 Off 5th outlet nearly at the robust levels of three years ago. stores and saks.com. Saks reports first-quarter results today. EYE The party Vanity Fair and Gucci held in Cannes on 16 Saturday night in honor of the 20th anniversary of Martin Scorsese’s Film Foundation brought out a Gap, Banana Republic to Enter Italy galaxy worth of stars. Classified Advertisements.................................................................................................15 TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS By Luisa Zargani and Ireland, while Banana Republic has units in [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. Japan and the U.K. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 MILAN — Gap Inc. revealed plans to open the The two stores in Milan will be owned by Gap FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. first Gap and Banana Republic stores in Italy and will leverage the existing European human VOLUME 199, NO. 105. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except for Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, June, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, August, September and this year. resources and distribution infrastructure, said November, and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine The stores will be located in central Milan, the company. Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: next to one another in Corso Vittorio Emanuele, Milan’s Gap store will cover three floors and S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional one of the busiest shopping streets in the city. more than 84,000 square feet, and carry the Gap, mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration Next year, the company is expected to roll out GapKids, babyGap, GapBody and GapMaternity No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North stores in Rome and other Italian venues. collections. The new Banana Republic loca- Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Stephen Sunnucks, Gap Inc. president, tion will cover 57,607 square feet and carry the Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Europe and international franchise, said he brand’s ready-to-wear collections for men and Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If was enthusiastic about entering Italy, “a new women, accessories and personal care products. during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with market, which is also one of the five main ones Gap stores total 3,100, and more than 170 of your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be for fashion in the world.” these are based in Europe. mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 The company is expanding its presence glob- On Monday, the group also unveiled plans to or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the ally and, in light of its strong customer base in launch an e-commerce site for Gap and Banana World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened London and Paris, Sunnucks said he expected Republic in England that will serve nine other companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. the Gap brands to have similar resonance with European countries, including Italy. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, Italian consumers. The San Francisco-based re- In the fourth quarter ended Jan. 30, the re- UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND tailer reported net profits of $352 million, up TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART tailer first said it planned to expand into Italy WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED and China in February. Aside from operating 45 percent compared with the year-ago period. TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED stores for all divisions in the U.S. and Canada, Sales rose to $4.24 billion from $4.08 billion in MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Gap brand has stores in Japan, the U.K., France the same period the previous year. DAILY One of the enduring QUOTE strengths“ of the Estée Aquascutum Taps Sykes as Design Director Lauder Cos. is our ability to identify brands By Nina Jones with unique positioning and nurture those We plan to expand LONDON — Aquascutum has brands to accelerate their momentum named Joanna Sykes design di- the“ men’s, women’s rector.
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