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L'olivier : Intérêt Dans Les Produits Cosmétiques

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L'olivier : Intérêt Dans Les Produits Cosmétiques UNIVERSITE DE NANTES FACULTE DE PHARMACIE ANNEE 2010 N° 55 THÈSE pour le DIPLÔME D’ÉTAT DE DOCTEUR EN PHARMACIE par Hélène LOMENECH Présentée et soutenue publiquement le 13 Octobre 2010 L’OLIVIER : INTÉRÊT DANS LES PRODUITS COSMÉTIQUES Président : Mme Céline COUTEAU, Maître de Conférence de Cosmétologie - H.D.R. Membres du jury : Mme Laurence COIFFARD, Professeur de Cosmétologie Mlle Aurélie LANCELOT, Docteur en Pharmacie SOMMAIRE SOMMAIRE ................................................................................................................ 1 INTRODUCTION ........................................................................................................ 8 PREMIÈRE PARTIE : RAPPELS BOTANIQUES SUR L’OLIVIER ........................... 9 1- Place de l’olivier dans la classification botanique ............................................... 9 1-1- Généralités sur la classification botanique ................................................... 9 1-2- Quelques notions de classification phylogénétique .................................... 10 1-2-1- Les Spermaphytes .............................................................................. 10 1-2-2- Les Angiospermes ............................................................................... 10 1-2-3- Les Eudicotylédones ........................................................................... 10 1-2-4- Les Asteridae ...................................................................................... 10 1-2-5- Les Lamiales ....................................................................................... 11 1-2-6- Les Oleaceae ...................................................................................... 11 1-2-7- Le genre Olea ...................................................................................... 11 1-2-8- L’espèce europaea .............................................................................. 11 1-2-9- Les différentes variétés d’olivier .......................................................... 12 2- Description botanique de Olea europeae .......................................................... 13 2-1- Aspect général ........................................................................................... 13 2-2- L’appareil végétatif ..................................................................................... 14 2-2-1- Le système racinaire ........................................................................... 14 2-2-2- Le tronc ............................................................................................... 14 2-2-3- Les rameaux ........................................................................................ 14 2-2-4- Les feuilles .......................................................................................... 15 2-2-4-1- Caractéristiques macroscopiques ................................................. 15 2-2-4-2- Caractéristiques microscopiques .................................................. 16 2-3- L’appareil reproducteur .............................................................................. 17 2-3-1- La fleur ................................................................................................ 17 2-3-2- La pollinisation ..................................................................................... 19 2-3-3- Le fruit ................................................................................................. 19 3- Les « saisons » de l’olive .................................................................................. 20 DEUXIÈME PARTIE : ETUDE DE L’HUILE D’OLIVE ............................................. 21 1- Obtention de l’huile d’olive ................................................................................ 21 1-1- La cueillette ................................................................................................ 22 1-1-1- La cueillette manuelle .......................................................................... 22 1-1-2- Le gaulage........................................................................................... 23 1-1-3- Les techniques mécaniques ................................................................ 24 1-2- Contrôle des olives ..................................................................................... 24 1-3- La conservation avant l’oléfaction .............................................................. 25 1-4- Le lavage ................................................................................................... 25 1-5- Le broyage et le malaxage ......................................................................... 26 1-5-1- Les moulins à la génoise ..................................................................... 26 1-5-2- Les moulins modernes ........................................................................ 27 1-6- L’extraction ................................................................................................. 28 1-6-1- Extraction par pression ........................................................................ 28 1-6-2- Extraction par centrifugation ................................................................ 29 1-7- La décantation............................................................................................ 29 1-8- La conservation .......................................................................................... 29 2- Margines et grignons ........................................................................................ 30 2-1- Utilisation des grignons .............................................................................. 31 2-2- Utilisation des margines ............................................................................. 31 3- Classification des huiles d’olive ........................................................................ 31 3-1- Les huiles d’olive alimentaires.................................................................... 31 3-1-1- Dénominations des huiles ................................................................... 31 3-1-1-1- L’ huile d’olive vierge .................................................................... 31 3-1-1-2- L’huile d’olive raffinée ................................................................... 32 3-1-1-3- L’huile d’olive ................................................................................ 32 3-1-1-4- L’huile de grignons d’olive brute ................................................... 32 3-1-1-5- L’huile de grignons d’olive raffinée ............................................... 33 3-1-1-6- L’huile de grignons d’olive ............................................................ 33 2 3-1-2- Appellations d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) .............................................. 33 3-2- Les huiles d’olive de qualité pharmaceutique ............................................. 33 3-2-1- L’huile d’olive raffinée .......................................................................... 33 3-2-1-1- Caractères .................................................................................... 34 3-2-1-2- Identification ................................................................................. 34 3-2-1-3- Essais ........................................................................................... 35 3-1-1-4- Conservation ................................................................................ 36 3-1-1-5- Etiquetage .................................................................................... 36 3-2-2- L’huile d’olive vierge ............................................................................ 36 3-2-2-1- Caractères .................................................................................... 37 3-2-2-2- Essais ........................................................................................... 37 3-2-2-3- Identification ................................................................................. 38 3-2-2-4- Conservation ................................................................................ 38 4- Composition de l’huile d’olive ............................................................................ 38 4-1- Composition de l’olive ................................................................................ 38 4-2- La fraction saponifiable de l’huile d’olive .................................................... 39 4-2-1- Rappels de biochimie .......................................................................... 39 4-2-1-1- Les acides gras ............................................................................ 39 4-2-1-1-1- Les acides gras saturés ......................................................... 39 4-2-1-1-2- Les acides gras insaturés ...................................................... 40 4-2-1-2- Les triglycérides ............................................................................ 41 4-2-2- Les acides gras de l’huile d’olive ......................................................... 41 4-3- La fraction insaponifiable ........................................................................... 43 4-3-1- Les hydrocarbures ............................................................................... 43 4-3-2- Les stérols ........................................................................................... 43 4-3-3- Les phospholipides .............................................................................. 44 4-3-4- Les alcools triterpéniques ...................................................................
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