ARMANI’S $346.5M PAYCHECK/2 THE ZEN WORLD OF DONNA/9 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • October 2, 2007 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles The Lace Way PARIS — For spring, John Galliano delivered a more low-key version of the retro message he has been conveying at Christian Dior for the past two seasons. But that doesn’t mean there weren’t some stellar clothes. Here, one example: his little strapless lace dress. For more, see pages 6 to 8.

China Pressure Cooker: Ethical Questions Grow Over Low-Cost Sourcing By Evan Clark ow prices are coming at a cost that Lconsumers and fashion companies can no longer ignore. Globalization and relentless retail competition among the likes of Wal- Mart, Target, H&M, Kohl’s, Gap and Macy’s might have turned supply chain “efficiency” into a high art, but the pressure on factories has spurred a slew of sweatshops, industrial pollution and consumer safety concerns that many expect ultimately will increase prices. At the same time, rising wages in China are only increasing pressure on manufacturers there as they strive See China, Page12 PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE STEPHANE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2007 WWD.COM Giorgio Armani’s Big Payday WWDTUESDAY By Amanda Kaiser Giorgio Armani Ready-to-Wear/Textiles MILAN — It’s a $346.5 million payday for Giorgio on the runway. Armani. The designer paid himself a dividend of 100 mil- FASHION The Paris collections got under way with John Galliano’s Old Hollywood- lion euros, or $126 million, and pocketed an addi- tional 175 million euros, or $220.5 million, through a 6 inspired party girls and Rick Owens’ cerebral take on cocoon dressing. share transaction within his own company, according to Giorgio Armani SpA’s 2006 annual report. GENERAL Dollar fi gures have been converted from the euro Globalization may have turned supply-chain “effi ciency” into an art, but the at average exchange rates for the period. 1 pressure on factories has led to concerns that many expect will increase prices. Specifically, Giorgio Armani SpA repurchased 500,000 treasury ordinary shares, or 5 percent of its Giorgio Armani paid himself $126 million, and gained $220.5 million via total share capital, from Armani himself. The design- 2 a company share transaction, according to the 2006 annual report. er netted 175 million euros, or $220.5 million, from RTW: Donna Karan is banking on a new clothing collection and store un- the deal. 9 der the name Urban Zen as another facet of her humanitarian program. An Armani spokesman said the fashion house bought the shares from the designer to reduce some Ralph Lauren was honored last week by the Association of a Better New of the company’s excess liquidity. The transaction is 10 York and 100 Black Men Inc. a fi rst for the group. Karl Lagerfeld struck a deal with Marchon Eyewear for a new line of The fashion company released its full-year results, women’s and men’s eyewear that will be launched at retail in January. down to the operating profi t level, in April. But the 10 annual report also provides a net fi gure. Net profi t for the year ended Dec. 31 actually dropped 25 percent Classifi ed Advertisements...... 15 to 131.7 million euros, or $165.9 million, due to high taxes as a result of changes in Italian tax legislation, To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. the company said. [email protected], using the individual’s name. Armani’s full-year 2006 earnings before inter- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT est and taxes rose about 19 percent to 246.5 million ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. euros, or $310.6 million. Consolidated sales grew 9.1 VOLUME 194, NO. 70. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one percent to 1.47 billion euros, or $1.85 billion. additional issue in January, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October, November and December, and three additional issues in February, April, and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance The report also revealed the company invested Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by 104.5 million euros, or $131.7 million, last year in Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive property, equipment, production streamlining and Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human new stores. Armani also ramped up advertising last Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail year, spending 98.7 million euros, or $124.4 million. Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: That’s 31 percent more than the fi rm spent in 2005. SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, Young Leaves Donna Karan please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list By Marc Karimzadeh that I can’t keep track of every- cosmetics, shoes and hosiery to available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. thing,” Young explained. her assortment. “When you have If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA NEW YORK — Bonnie Young, Another contributor to leav- your own store, you can do any- 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, senior creative director for ing DKI is the plan to open thing you want,” she said. BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED Donna Karan Collection, has her fi rst freestanding store in As senior creative director MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR left the company to focus ex- Aspen, Colo., this December. at DKI, Young worked in such CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR clusively on her namesake chil- Located on Cooper Street, the areas as fabrics, inspirations DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY dren’s wear label. unit is a partnership with hedge and the general directions of the A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. When reached on Monday, fund executives Dana and Tim Collection. Young, whose last day at Donna Presutti, who are the parents She added that leaving the Karan International was on of a school friend of Young’s fashion house after almost 16 Friday, said she had been mull- daughter, Celia Isadora. “We ran years was a diffi cult decision to In Brief ing the move for months, and into them on the street one day make, since she considers it her made the decision based on and my daughter asked to have “home,” and Karan “a second the speedy growth of her own her friend over for a playdate,” mom.” ● UNITED RETAIL WAITS NO MORE: United Retail Group Inc. label. Launched last year, the Young said. “She came over Young said Karan has been and Redcats USA Inc., a subsidiary of Redcats Group, a part children’s wear line has al- with her mother, who saw the very supportive of her new ven- of PPR, said Monday that the U.S. federal antitrust agencies ready been picked up by retail- clothing, and said, ‘We’re mov- ture and sells the children’s col- granted early termination of the waiting period under the ers around the world, including ing to Aspen, can I open a store lection in her own Collection Hart-Scott-Rodino Antitrust Improvements Act in connection Barneys New York in New York for you?’” stores. Young will continue to with Redcats USA’s pending acquisition of United Retail. The and Los Angeles, Harvey Nichols The children’s wear designer work closely with Karan on spe- purchase is via a tender offer that began on Sept. 25, and is in London, Club 21 in Singapore plans to turn her collection into cial charity projects concerning scheduled to expire at midnight EST, at the end of Oct. 23, and Mercury in Moscow. a whole lifestyle concept. She children. “It’s a personal con- unless extended. PPR’s Redcats plans to acquire the plus-size “I launched my own company recently launched boys’ wear, nection that will never go away,” retailer for $198.9 million, or $13.70 a share, in cash, a 23 per- a year ago, and it is going so well and said she would like to add she said. cent premium on trading in the 90-day period ended Sept. 7. The deal should close by yearend.

● OLDIES BUT GOODIES: Although the latest handbags from Prada, Gucci and Bottega Veneta are coveted, their vintage Retail Stocks Get Bump as Dow Sets Mark counterparts are rare. Bagborroworsteal.com, the Seattle- all Street rallied to a record Group, which jumped 4.9 percent $32.05, teen retailer Abercrombie based Web site that rents out handbags and jewelry to con- Whigh Monday amid specula- to close at $43.53. Specialty re- & Fitch was ahead 1.92 percent sumers, is starting Vintage Collection, which will offer vintage tion that the subprime mortgage tailers such as AnnTaylor Stores to $82.25 and Gap shares inched designer handbags from the likes of Hermès, Moschino and crisis has bottomed out, and ap- Corp., Gap Inc. and Abercrombie up 0.3 percent to $18.50. Chanel. Claire Watson, a former couture consultant at auction parel retail stocks benefited. & Fitch Co. also recorded in- The department store sector house Doyle New York, was tapped to curate and assemble the The biggest industry win- creases. Shares of Ann Taylor had gains as well. Macy’s Inc. collection, which comprises 70 bags and will be available next ner was preppy retailer J. Crew were up 1.2 percent to close at spiked 3 percent to $33.28, J.C. month. By yearend, the collection will increase to 100 bags. Penney Inc. increased 1.04 per- cent at $64.03 and Sears Holdings Corp. rose 2.4 percent to $130.28. Among high-end stores, Saks Inc. gained 1.6 percent to $17.42, Corrections and Nordstrom Inc. increased The photo at right is from Salvatore 0.8 percent to $47.28. Ferragamo’s spring runway show. The cap- The Dow Jones industrial av- tion was incorrect in Milan accessories cov- THE TIGER COMPANIES erage was up 1.4 percent to close erage on page 7, Monday. at 14,087.55, which broke the ● ● ● Tiger Button Co Inc - New York previous high of 14,000.41 set on Tiger Button (hk) Ltd - Hong Kong In a story on page 13, Monday, three captions July 19. The Standard & Poor’s Tiger Button (India) Pvt Ltd. in the Viktor & Rolf bag story were incorrect. 500 Index gained 1.3 percent, to Tiger Button BV - Amsterdam,The Netherlands They should have read, clockwise from top: 1,547.04, and the Nasdaq rose 1.5 Tiger Trimming Inc - New York The Good Evening bag, the How Are You bag percent, to 2,740.99, the highest and the I’m Fine bag. Tel: (212) 594-0570 Fax: (212) 695-0265 Email:[email protected] in six years. — Jeanine Poggi chic

EUGENIA PR Director

meets

THE MAGAZINE ABOUT SHOPPING street AND STYLE PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCOTT SCHUMAN: theSartorialist.com SCHUMAN: SCOTT BY PHOTOGRAPHY 4 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2007 WWD.COM Foreign Affairs EYE SCOOP Even the most evolved men sometimes have a hard time dealing with their Some actors fi gure out their wives’ success. Take Sidney Harman, the electronics tycoon who’s married characters through the accent. to Rep. Jane Harman, a seven-term democrat from California. In 2003, he Others do it through their backstory. donated $20 million to the Shakespeare Theatre Company to help fi nance For Tilda Swinton, it all starts with the a 775-seat ultramodern glass extension of the troupe’s performance space. clothes. “Basically, I just fi gure that And, when discussing his gift Sunday night at the British Embassy in out and then have a good laugh,” Washington, he said: “I had to fi nd something I could do to upstage my wife. And she said Sunday night at a screening when you see the theater, I think you’ll agree I’ve done a pretty good job.” of “Michael Clayton.” In the fi lm, He wasn’t the only one at the theater company’s big celebration tooting his own horn. she stars opposite George Clooney Toronto architect Jack Diamond, who designed the $89 million edifi ce, took a swipe at as a crooked corporate lawyer with the competition. “Too many theaters are blind. You don’t have a sense of how the theater a penchant for pearls. “All of those connects with the street,” said Diamond, comparing his newest design — which looks women wear that,” Swinton said. out onto a busy city street — to the windowless Kennedy Center complex. “It’s like a uniform. There are a Another star of the evening was gala chairman Ann Nitze. “I’ll tell you the attraction couple of earrings you can wear, but for coming down from New York,’’ said guest Pat Patterson. “Ann Nitze — she called me you always have a string of pearls 10 times and twisted my arm.” and you can pretty much lose your Partying started early with pre-embassy cocktails Saturday night at the Harman’s D.C. job if you wear the wrong color hose. home, where Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice led the list of powerful political women Anjelica I studied a whole bunch of women including Sen. Susan Collins and former Democratic vice presidential candidate Geraldine Huston like her, and they also loved Manolos Ferraro. “We’re going to have Condi play at the new theater,” Jane Harman told guests. in Louis and Ferragamo, but they only wore Sunday night’s embassy parties also included dinner at Villa Firenze, the elegant home Vuitton. them under their desk, never to of Italian Ambassador Giovanni Castellaneta and his wife, Lila. With racks of shimmering court. Too much personality.” dresses designed by Renato Balestra on display in the front hall in preparation for a fashion Others in attendance at the show at the embassy Wednesday, Lila Castellaneta accessorized her magenta and black screening included Clooney and his Balestra cocktail dress with a swirl of wriggling fur — her new fi ve-month-old bichon frise girlfriend, Sarah Larson; Christopher puppy named PoFac, which means “puffy cheeks” in her native Persian. and Amanda Brooks; Joan Collins, Winding up the party triathlon, the gang reconvened Monday night for a gala and director Tony Gilroy. performance. As outgoing British Ambassador Sir David Manning aptly observed: “This event deserves a glass of Champagne in each hand.” Up north, a social set of a different order convened on Thursday night in New York, when Louis Vuitton’s Antoine Arnault and Daniel Lalonde toasted the cast of “The Darjeeling Limited” with a dinner at La Grenouille. The evening held an air of an eclectic family reunion with players from Wes Anderson fi lms past and present, including Anjelica Huston, Noah Baumbach, Waris Ahluwalia, Amara Karan and Roman Coppola, breaking baguette with Francesco and Chiara Clemente, Susan Gutfreund and Jacqui Getty, who had just fl own in from Los Angeles. The one-of-a-kind custom-made luggage Marc Jacobs created for the fi lm took center stage during a silent auction, but Jason Schwartzman was stuck with another accessory for the night — a wooden cane. “I broke a couple of toes two weeks ago in a soccer accident,” he explained. “I personally don’t think I need the cane, but my doctor thinks I may have to use it for up to six weeks.” Jason Adrien Brody’s accoutrements, namely a pair of Day-Glo orange chaussures, also Schwartzman earned him some attention. “They had put aside a good selection of suits for me,” inin LouisLouis said the actor, who had gone to the Vuitton boutique on Fifth Avenue earlier that day Vuitton. Ann Nitze to pick out his getup. “But I asked them, ‘Would you mind if I dressed in something a in Renato little different?’” Balestra.

Elsa Pataky and Adrien Brody.

Mary McFadden and Ambassador Tilda of Colombia Swinton Carolina in Haider Barco at Villa Pat Ackerman. Firenze. Patterson

Saturday night. The key is to get to know the ushers,” jokes Murray Perahia the now 60-year-old Perahia, who has performed as a soloist and conductor in every major concert hall around the globe. Piano Man While Perahia didn’t always know he wanted to be a soloist, tricken with a series of hand injuries that left him unable he developed a love of music early in life, when his father took Sto perform and sometimes unable to play a single note him to concerts and operas. Perahia later enrolled in Mannes on the piano, Murray Perahia worried a few years ago that his College, a music conservatory, where he majored in conducting musical career might come to an end. Instead, he has made a and composition. Shortly after graduating, he began teaching successful comeback and will open Carnegie Hall’s fall season at his alma mater and the Curtis Institute of Music, where he Wednesday night. served as Rudolf Serkin’s assistant. Still, he never considered Perahia will perform Beethoven’s Piano Concerto No. 4 at a solo career until a manager suggested he enter the Leeds The Opening Night Gala of Carnegie Hall’s 117th Season with International Piano Competition in 1972, which he won. the Lucerne Festival Orchestra, conducted by David Robertson. Although Perahia claims his favorite pieces are the ones The pianist will return to the fabled venue in November he’s working on at any given time, he enjoys the works of for a solo recital, where he will perform the works of Bach, Beethoven, Chopin, Brahms and Schumann. He especially Beethoven, Brahms and Chopin, as part of a nine-city tour. likes Mozart’s “humanity and complication,” and considers “It’s a great thrill to be back because there were times I didn’t Mendelssohn an underrated composer. Yet Perahia still fi nds think I would play again,” says Perahia. “I hope to keep playing.” challenges in every piece he plays. His long road back to the tour circuit has been a diffi cult “Whatever I’m playing is always diffi cult because of every one. Perahia’s health problems began in the early Nineties, piece’s many aspects, from the music and tone to the color and when he suffered a severe cut on his fi nger. He was given a emotion,” says Perahia. “To make music without getting lost in clean bill of health later in the decade for a comeback, but its ‘technical forest’ is a challenge musicians are all faced with.” several years ago, other hand problems fl ared up. As for which composition sets apart the true world class During his most diffi cult times, Perahia turned to the burying himself in the famous composers’ biographies and pianists, Perahia cites Mozart’s work as a true standard of works of Bach for solace. studying analytical works by Heinrich Schenker, Perahia was excellence. “His music provided me with spiritual comfort and poised to make yet another comeback. “There aren’t many notes, so a pianist can’t just get away nourishment, and I saw hope through his music,” he says. “All the music I had listened to had an effect on me,” he with pure virtuosity. Every note has to speak,” he says. “A certain “Playing music isn’t just a job for me. It’s a language I speak, says. “Perhaps it made me stronger musically.” sincerity is required because every note has to matter and mean and without it, it’s like having my tongue cut out and being His upcoming stops at Carnegie Hall stir fond memories something. Playing Mozart is like a refl ection of the pianist’s unable to communicate.” for the musician. soul. It’s not just making pretty music and nice sounds.” After two years of listening to scores of Bach and Handel, “I used to sneak in and hear concerts practically every — Michelle Edgar LOUIS VUITTON PHOTOS BY JIMI CELESTE; MCFADDEN, BARCO BY LYNN KEITH; PATTERSON BY KYLE SAMPERTON; SWINTON BY PMC SWINTON BY SAMPERTON; KYLE BY KEITH; PATTERSON LYNN BY BARCO JIMI CELESTE; MCFADDEN, VUITTON PHOTOS BY LOUIS OCTOBER 29-30, 2007 | THE ST. REGIS HOTEL, NEW YORK CITY

You can’t afford not to hear them

Ralph Lauren Mackey J. McDonald Harvey Weinstein Jane Elfers Tory Burch Chairman and CEO Chairman and CEO Co-Chairman President and CEO Creative Director POLO RALPH LAUREN VF CORP. THE WEINSTEIN LORD & TAYLOR TORY BURCH LLC CORP. COMPANY LLC

Mark Lee Rishad Tobaccowala Shireen El Khatib Mohan Murjani Stefani Greenfi eld CEO Chief Innovation Offi cer CEO Chairman Co-Owner GUCCI PUBLICIS GROUPE MEDIA AL TAYER INSIGNIA MURJANI GROUP SCOOP NYC

FOR PROGRAM DETAILS CALL 212.630.4947 OR EMAIL [email protected] 6 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2007 Flappers and Philo

Christian Dior: Fashion can be likened to working out — sometimes you go at maximum power until there’s not another move left in you, and sometimes you pull back and give yourself a break. After his extraordinary work surrounding Dior’s 60th anniversary celebration — two extravaganza couture outings PARIS and one for ready-to-wear — on Monday afternoon John Galliano did the latter for spring, showing a spring ’08 collection that featured a scaled-back variation on last season’s divine retro. As Sting and Trudie Styler sat in the front row, the singer’s “I’m an Englishman in New York” came over the soundtrack, to accompany a model in three-piece pinstripes and beret, the fi rst of many girls dappered out in natty, demonstrative tailoring. Then, the counterpoint: dresses and suits with a Thirties-Forties vibe, the former typically graceful bias cuts, the latter, all curves with Joan Crawford shoulders, and perhaps a Swarovski explosion somewhere to fl aunt the luxe. For diversity’s sake, Galliano inserted a fl apper here, a Fifties cocktail number there, not to mention a whole lot of wild-kingdom lingerie, sometimes combining his motifs, as when he put a crystal-pinstriped jacket and vest with animal-spotted undies. For evening, Galliano could not have moved further from the intricate, how’d-he-do-that origami New Look constructions that started in couture and made their way into fall. Instead, he opted for red carpet-ready sirens, many of them beautiful, though they felt a bit wanting in the thrills department. Perhaps Galliano felt the time had come for a statement about clothes of an obviously grounded sort, just to remind us they’re in his repertoire, too.

Christian Dior

Christian Dior

Christian Dior PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE AND GIOVANNI GIANNONI WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2007 7 WWD.COM

As the Paris collections began, the city played host to a pair of polar opposites. In one corner, there were Galliano’s Old Hollywood-inspired party girls for Fashion Scoops Christian Dior; in the other, Rick Owens’ cerebral takes on cocoon dressing. TAILOR MADE: Hedi Slimane has been replaced by none other than Karl osophers Lagerfeld — as the photographer of the Dior Homme campaign. Kris Van Assche, who replaced Slimane at the design helm of Dior Homme in April, confi rmed he tapped Lagerfeld for his fi rst advertising spots, but was mum on details as he exited Monday’s Dior show. Lagerfeld has been one of Dior Homme’s biggest followers and clients — especially during the Slimane days — so shooting the collection should be, well, a snap.

SCREEN SAVER: It looks like Sidney Toledano has been moonlighting — as an actor. The Dior honcho plays a TV presenter in a shopping channel spoof to showcase the house’s latest fi ne jewelry collection, WWD has learned. “I’m trying a new job,” the affable executive said with a chuckle. Toledano stars alongside Dior jewelry designer Victoire de Castellane. Filmed by Loïc Prigent, the spot, which lasts around 12 minutes and features a set inspired by Dior’s salons, will be screened at the fi rm’s headquarters on Saturday and Sunday.

▲ TIME AND SPACE: There’s a limit to being ▲ Rick Owens fashionably late, and Courtney Love crossed it, arriving long after most editors and buyers had fi led out of the Rick Owens show on Sunday. A few photographers remained, but couldn’t coax a smile out of the tardy rocker.

SUCK UP: The common vacuum cleaner may not speak volumes to most people, but Issey Miyake’s artistic director Dai Fujiwara got so taken with the domestic object, or rather its wind-making capacities, that he’s developed an entire stage set around it. The construction, engineered by the vacuum pros at Dyson, and inspired by the brand’s “cyclone” technology, will be unveiled at the Issey Miyake show today. Let’s hope for weighty shoes for those slender Christian Dior models taking part in the show, to help them STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTOS BY keep hold of the runway. Courtney Love

BUSY BEES: Music was in the air at the overheated Dior show on Monday, as fashion regulars Kanye West and Sting slid into their seats. West had attended the Vivienne Westwood show earlier that day, Vivienne Westwood and Kanye West and he’s also working on his own new clothing collection, Pastel, that will launch this spring. “It will be classic with a touch of Pop Art,” said the rapper. Meanwhile, John Galliano has added another muse to his pack, the Franco-Chinese actress Mylène Jampanoï. She said she would appear in a Dior beauty campaign, to be released in the U.S. and Asia in the spring. “It’s been crazy busy,” said Jampanoï, who is currently fi lming “Martyrs,” with Isabella Adjani. As for Marisa Berenson, she said she would be making her Paris theater debut next year. “It will be my fi rst time on stage in Paris,” said Berenson, who sat with her daughter, Starlite Randall.

DINNER AND A MOVIE: Not only a star on the screen, Catherine Deneuve now is applying her touch to the movie theater itself. She recently redecorated the Cinema du Panthéon and its tea salon. To give the space an Art Deco ambience, Deneuve sourced various objects and Rick Owens: Fashion fit for a futuristic furniture at fl ea markets in various cities between takes. Deneuve is also avatar? At Rick Owens, anything is an adviser for the menu, which features organic salmon from Denmark, possible, and it can even look good at times Spanish ham and carrot cake. Deneuve is expected at the Gaultier show — although it’s certainly not everyone’s today. cup of tea. Owens has never shied from weird or unwieldy looks. This season, for YOUTHQUAKE: Starting today, the Petit Palais will play host to a new example, it would be hard to call his spiky, fashion initiative aimed at exposing young designers. Organized by towering wedge boots worn with black gym the French ready-to-wear association, the event will allow the public socks a model of typical sportif chic. But and buyers alike to peruse behind-the-scenes material of fi ve French his gazar dresses and jackets, manipulated brands, including Burfi tt, Requiem, Véronique Leroy, ES-Orchestres and into intricate geometric patterns, were Sakina M’sa. One designer will be showcased per day. The show also interesting propositions, as were a jacket will include a MySpace-inspired installation, designed by Loïc Prigent, in folded ostrich, geometrical striped geared to unveil the personal universe of each participant, from their dhoti pants and kimono-like jackets. And favorite music to the contents of their wardrobe. While in a separate both the intriguingly draped white dresses space, professionals will have access to static presentations of their and high-necked, cocoon-like jackets had spring collections. modern allure. Still, it may take effort to integrate many of these pieces into a EARLY START: Those who huffed and puffed that the spring fashion wardrobe, but then Owens has never been season started too early last month may want to start mentally preparing about making fashion easy. for the fall show schedule (Marc Jacobs included). New York’s next fashion week is slated to kick off on Friday, Feb.1, and run through Friday, Feb. 8, bringing the week closer to January than ever. It shouldn’t come as a surprise for those who keep track of such things, since the New York shows have been traditionally starting on the fi rst Friday of the month for the past few years. That would mean that in 2009, the shows will run Feb.6 to 13, which should allow some New York designers some extra breathing room. 8 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2007 WWD.COM

Call it hippie minus the dippy. A lightly more from bohemian style, seen in everything from the shows... fringed scarves to tribal ▲ Robert Normand: embellishments, made Robert Normand’s sun-kissed beachy its presence felt on collection offered La Vie Boho the Paris runways. fl oor-sweeping Balmain: Over the last T-shirt dresses few seasons, Christophe splashed with Decarnin has shown fl oral prints and Balmain Commuun talent for sexy, sparkling colorful abstracts, and dangerously short plus bubble- evening gear. While shaped batik he continued down a minis that were similar path for spring, the PARIS charming. designer, who has drawn spring ’08 some attention to the dusty house of Balmain, went Native (American) this time. A minidress came with an embroidered eagle and fringe, while another short dress ▲ Estrella Archs: was printed with a feather motif. But Poetic riffs on Decarnin’s Pocahontas was hardly the dress — one a one-look wonder — she could also sporting jutting do the bohemian thing, including diamond-shaped a long flowing hippie-deluxe print hips — formed dress with an intricately beaded the bass note of bodice and a psychedelic tie-dyed Estrella Archs’ dress embroidered with silver stars. breezy debut Decarnin has found his niche in collection, sexy party clothes, and while some which alternated may find his range limited, he between fl uid definitely delivers the merch and geometric young “It” girls crave. shapes. ▲ Vivienne Westwood: There are Manish Arora: designers who have earned their Indian motifs laurels — and rest on them. These and psychedelia days, Vivienne Westwood seems collided to to have reached that comfortable giddy effect at plateau in her career where churning Manish Arora’s out more of her greatest hits — with Paris debut — very subtle variations — is enough think mirrored to keep the machine chugging along. rainbow dresses, To wit: There were more than a fair Day-Glo pom- share of her signature disheveled Vivienne pom jackets dresses, high-waisted pants and bias- Westwood and a glow-in- cut assembled evening confections. the-dark gown What was new? In her program crammed with notes, Westwood said one of her butterfl ies. working ideas was imagining what would have happened if “Marilyn Monroe had married an English lord with a country estate and had a kinky relationship.” Judging from Westwood’s pink gym shorts paired with a bustier, short sequined dress and funny use of cowboy-like fringe, it probably would have been a marriage that ended in divorce.

Isabel Marant: Isabel Marant Isabel Marant delivered a straight shot of her signature street mix: legions of jackets ▲ Bless: Design duo Desirée Heiss — tailored and cargo types — for the and Inès Kaag took their sportswear most part shown with ethnic prints spin literally this season and turned and slouchy, tapered drawstring their fashion presentation into a drawers. The dusty military palette soccer game with models scurrying combined with abstract camoufl age about in deconstructed T-shirts with tops, bottoms and baby-doll dresses knitted patches and zippers, as well and Palestinian-print djellabas and as quirky oversize shorts, sleeveless scarves could be interpreted as jumpsuits and hooded sweatshirts.

political posturing — a notion Marant ▲ dismissed preshow. She’s just feeling Bernard the desert legionnaire thing right now. Willhelm: Considering the schoolish jackets Americana and scarves — two items Marant has stars-and- down to a science — her stylishly stripes creations nonchalant lineup felt on point, if were among at times a little washed out due to the highlights the legion of army green and khaki of Bernard pairings. Willhelm’s witty spring collection Commuun: Hitting the catwalk for the — presented on first time is often a sign that a brand models positioned is ready to take its vision to another in neon-lit crates level. And sure enough, Commuun, — along with the emerging eco-oriented French the designer’s brand designed by Kaito Hori and signature knotted Iku Furudate, delivered a collection cotton smocks in that is sure to woo a wider clientele. punchy hues. The brand’s minimalist airs are still intact, but more sophisticated Dice Kayek: Turkish designer Ece forms have emerged for spring via Ege showed her fl air for tailoring constructed cocoon-inspired dresses with sharply constructed vests worn and fluid silhouettes honed from over transparent chiffon pants, while combinations of draped chiffon and short satin dresses with bell-shaped sleeves added a feminine touch. ultralight jerseys. GIANNONI AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2007 9 WWD.COM Ready-to-Wear Report

Donna Karan and An interior view of the Urban Zen boutique. Sonja Nuttall, co- founders of the Urban Zen Initiative. PORTRAIT AND STORE PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT AND STORE PHOTOS BY PORTRAIT Donna Widens Scope of Urban Zen Brand

By Marc Karimzadeh beauty of it is the simplicity of the raw space, and using the space as is,” she said. Karan described the collection with one of her signature Donna-isms. “It’s fi nd- NEW YORK — Donna Karan has turned to fashion to further her humanitarian ef- ing the calm in the chaos of dressing,” she said. “It’s clothes that will hopefully last forts. forever. It’s not about a seasonal fashion statement of winter, spring and summer, and Karan, who launched the Urban Zen initiative with a 10-day seminar on well-being yet it will evolve. I think these are clothes that are collectibles, like the objects in the and patient advocacy in May, is banking on a new clothing collection and store by the store. A lot of it is recycled, re-dyed and over-dyed, and fabrics are cashmere, silk, same name to provide another facet to her program. cotton...the staples.” The 1,200-square-foot store at 705 Greenwich Street here opened temporarily dur- Although some of the pieces blend in easily with her other collections, Urban ing the program’s fi rst installment, but Karan decided to make it a permanent fi xture Zen focuses more on the utilitarian aspect of dressing. Cases in point, the line in- last month. A banner that reads “Raise Awareness Inspire Change” — Urban Zen’s cludes a utilitarian jumpsuit, jodhpur pull-on yoga pants, a double-layered hooded mantra, according to Karan — brings attention to the boutique and the initiative. cardigan and cashmere pieces suitable for layering. Urban Zen apparel retails Karan started her initiative after witnessing the medical system’s shortcomings from $295 to $2,995. fi rst-hand when her late husband, Stephan Weiss, and her friend Lynn Kohlman “It’s very much about layering, tak- battled cancer. Her desire to incorporate ing them on and taking them off, and alternative and holistic healing methods, rolling them up so you can go any- including organic nutrition, restorative Fall looks where in the world,” Karan said. “It’s yoga and healing rooms into established from defi nitely for the person who is con- medical institutions led to Urban Zen. Urban stantly on the go and constantly trav- Karan, who cofounded the initiative Zen. eling, or for the person who just wants with her friend, designer Sonja Nuttall, to hang out and do nothing.” also produced a subsequent seminar The boutique is selling pieces by on Africa, and next month Urban Zen other designers, too, such as Forme by Koeun Park, Bonnie Young children’s wear, Lainey knitwear and James Perse. The jewelry is by Wanga from I think these are Namibia and Agas & Tamar from “ Israel. Shoes are by Simple, and are clothes that are sustainable with natural materials such as organic cotton, recycled car collectibles, like the tires and cork, and espadrilles are by Toms, which aims to combine fashion objects in the store. with a social conscience, with each — Donna” Karan sold pair resulting in a donated pair for a impoverished child. There are plans to host a series of events with the also one-of-a-kind artisan items and SFK (Spirituality for Kids) Foundation. home pieces, including stone sculp- In preparation, Karan recently trav- tures by Celine Cannon. “There’s a eled to Israel to work with Israeli and hand and a soul and an art in every Palestinian children. single thing,” Karan said. A portion of the profits from the For the mind, the store offers lit- store will go to Karan’s foundation erature devoted to wellness and yoga, and to Urban Zen’s programs. The bou- and for the senses, there are essen- tique is adjacent to the Stephan Weiss tial oils by Young Living, massage oils Studios, where the Urban Zen events and body lotions by Como Shambhala, have taken place. which is part of Christina Ong’s Club The Urban Zen collection and retail 21 empire. unit are independent of Donna Karan Those who attended the DKNY International. and Donna Karan Collection runway “The store truly represents the com- shows last month understand how plete concept of Urban Zen, touching a passionate Karan has become about person by its coziness, its comfortable- the collection and store, as she spent ness, its caring-ness, its simplicity, its much time before and after the shows sensibility of people today and how to personally pull in editors and buy- they want to have objects of desire,” ers for support. Karan said. “The one thing I love about the store The space and collection explore is that we’re in season,” Karan said Karan’s more spiritual, holistic interests. with a laugh, referencing one of her The unit itself has a raw aesthetic feel pet peeves about the fashion system. that Karan warms with artifacts she has “We’re probably the only store that will gathered from around the world. “The show fall in fall and spring in spring.” 10 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2007 WWD.COM

the past year was the executive director of MagNet, resigned Monday to join the ncaa.com. Hanson Ralph Lauren Honored became the head of the division after serving as MEMO PAD director of business development at Golf Digest Publications. At MagNet, Hansen reported to John For Cancer Care Center FRENCH LETTER DAY: Jonathan Newhouse, chairman of Bellando, Condé Nast’s chief operating offi cer. Most Condé Nast International, is to receive an award Condé Nast magazine sites are getting upgrades to NEW YORK — At Ralph of merit from the French government and will include video, blogs and other interactive features, Lauren’s 40th anniver- be pinned as an Offi cer in the Order of Arts and and are under the oversight of each magazine’s sary show and black- Letters during a ceremony in Paris on Jan. 16. “I editor in chief. Hansen was the liaison between tie dinner here last regard this really as recognition of the excellence Bellando and editors such as Graydon Carter, Anna month, Mayor Michael of our magazines rather than a personal honor. It Wintour and David Remnick and helped facilitate Bloomberg said that if refl ects the brilliance and talent of our editors,” resources for the sites. The task was not easy, asked for a great New Newhouse told WWD. “I suppose if I have any gift, suggested one insider, who commented Hansen Yorker, central casting it’s fi nding the best editorial talent to produce our had to deal with “20 huge egos that want to remain would send the design- magazines.” Gilbert Brownstone, president of his in control of their Web sites” while at the same er. That sentiment was namesake foundation and former curator of the time fi elding complaints they weren’t getting the echoed last Thursday, Museum of Modern Art of the City of Paris, will millions they demanded. A replacement for Hansen when Lauren and phy- bestow the honors and pin the medal on Newhouse, has not been revealed. — Stephanie D. Smith sician Harold Freeman who has operated Condé Nast magazines outside were honored by the the U.S. since 1989. Condé Nast France publishes I DO: The real star Association of a Better Vogue Paris, Vogue Collections, Vogue Homme of TLC’s new series New York and One International, AD and Glamour. A French edition of “Say Yes to the Hundred Black Men Inc. GQ will be added in April. — Miles Socha Dress” may be The event at the Kleinfeld’s 35,000- Loews Regency Hotel OLDIES BUT GOODIES: Don’t get between foxnews. square-foot New brought out those close com’s Roger Friedman and his music. The York fl agship at 110 to Lauren, such as his Ralph Lauren and Dr. Harold Freeman commentator on Monday called for a boycott of West 20th Street. wife, Ricky, son David, Rolling Stone magazine after the release of this The 13-part series, brother Jerry, as well as his extended family of senior Polo ex- year’s nominees for the Rock and Roll Hall of which premieres on ecutives, including Buffy Birrittella, Bette-Ann Gwathmey, Charles Fame, who include Madonna, the Beastie Boys, Oct. 12, documents Fagan and Scott Bowman. New York City schools chancellor Joel Bruce Springsteen and John Mellencamp. In “Rolling the trials and Klein was among the guests, along with ABNY chairman William Stone Magazine Hits a Sour Note With Rock and triumphs involved in C. Rudin and One Hundred Black Men president Philip Banks Jr. Roll Hall of Fame Nominees (like Madonna),” he choosing a wedding Accepting his crystal, apple-shaped award, Freeman, the medi- writes, “OK, just so we’re straight on why Rolling gown. “Say Yes,” cal director of the Ralph Lauren Center for Cancer Care and Stone must be boycotted. It wants the Beastie Boys which is described Prevention in East Harlem, recalled starting his medical practice before Randy Newman, The Hollies, Tom Jones or as part bridal in 1967, the same year Lauren began his business. Referring to their Mitch Ryder’s ‘Devil With a Blue Dress On.’ story, part fashion fi rst meeting in 2001, when Freeman made a presentation to the “Hit publisher [Jann] Wenner, who controls the transformation and designer for the proposed center, Freeman recalled, “He said the Rock Hall, where it hurts,” reported Friedman. part family therapy, simple words, ‘I will help you.’ He was a man who meant what he He also asked readers to refrain from clicking on “is wrought with said.” Lauren’s Center for Cancer Care and Prevention, a partner-

the ads on Rolling Stone’s Web site. “Then maybe intense drama,” TODD PLITT/TLC PHOTO BY ship between Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center and North Wenner will get the message that no one can take TLC boasts. Each Kleinfeld consultant Keasha General Hospital, opened in May 2003. his Rock and Roll Hall of Fame seriously anymore.” episode introduces Rigsby helps bride-to-be Stacey Banks praised Lauren for being the fi rst designer to give Of Friedman’s piece, a Wenner Media three brides who Kaaz shop for a wedding gown. African-Americans a real opportunity in fashion, citing designer spokesman said: “Roger’s accusations are moronic traveled to Kleinfeld Jeffrey Banks and model Tyson Beckford as examples. nonsense.” Meanwhile, Joel Peresman, president from across North America, some arriving with an “Our honoree is the epitome of the word brotherhood,” he and chief executive offi cer of the Rock and Roll entourage of parents, friends and extended family. said. Hall of Fame Foundation, joked one of the reasons While not exactly bridezillas — the badly behaved Lauren recalled his youth in the Bronx, when his mother dis- Friedman is bitter is because his “demands for free brides on the WE show of the same name — the closed that she had found a lump in her breast. Her doctor sug- tickets to events” are not met. “Jann isn’t even betrothed on “Say Yes,” have their tearful moments gested going to a specialist downtown, but she was frightened to on the nominating committee,” Peresman added. but generally handle pressure with a bit more make the journey. Patient navigation — helping patients make their “People are always going to be upset. They are very dignity. Of course, they have the Kleinfeld team way through the medical system to get the best care — is crucial, passionate about the artists and get angry if certain to guide them, an army of 250 bridal consultants, he said. people aren’t inducted.” Right you are. So can we fi tters, seamstresses, beading specialists and steam Lauren said that if he had to be remembered for something, talk about Tiny Tim? — Amy Wicks pressers. Kleinfeld, which was founded in Brooklyn building the cancer center would be key. “If I saved one life, I in 1941, is owned by Ronnie Rothstein, Mara Urshel think I have done my job,” he said. NET MOVES: Condé Nast suffered a defection at its and Wayne Rogers, and claims to have the largest — Marc Karimzadeh MagNet division, which houses the individual Web selections of bridal gowns in the world. But what sites for its various magazines. Julie Hansen, who for about the bridesmaids’ dresses? — Sharon Edelson Karl Lagerfeld Entering Eyewear By Caroline Tell lasses are as much a part Gof Karl Lagerfeld’s image as white shirts and slim-fitting suits. So it comes as no surprise he is launching his own eyewear collection; the only question is why it took him so long. Lagerfeld’s fi rm will launch women’s and men’s eyewear collections under the Karl Lagerfeld label, beginning in 2008. In a licensed agreement, Marchon Eyewear will be re- sponsible for their production and distribution. “Dark glasses are like por- table eye shadow and the world looks more beautiful through tinted glasses,” Karl Lagerfeld said in a statement. “Everybody looks 10 years younger. That is why I wear dark glasses always.” Eyewear by Karl Lagerfeld. Those buyers and press viewing Lagerfeld’s collection tures 24 styles, each in four Wednesday in Paris will be given color options — from tones of a preview of some of the frames. blue to red, black and tortoise. They were developed in collab- The opthalmic group will be oration with Lagerfeld and the available by April and will in- design duo Christian Roth and clude 14 styles, each with four Eric Domege, best known for color choices. their high-tech, glamorous sen- All Karl Lagerfeld eyewear sibility that has infl uenced the will be sold worldwide in select optical world since 1984. department stores and specialty In stores in January, stores and will retail from $175 Lagerfeld’s sun collection fea- to $250. WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2007 11 WWD.COM Textile & Trade Report Eco-Friendly Fabrics Fetch Premiums at Première Vision By Katya Foreman PARIS — Visitors to the eco-friendly section of Première Vision applauded the diver- sity of fi bers on offer, as well as the wide range of ultralightweight fabrics. But with prices high due to expensive production costs, most buyers said they would make the category only an element in their collections. “We can only afford to use eco-friendly fabrics for our higher-priced lines, such as denim,” said Wil Beadle, a designer for the British brand All Saints. “When it gets to selling a T-shirt for over $50, it’s a bit of a problem.” Beadle said the Japanese brand Saka Kura had the most directional choice of earth-friendly fabrics on display. “Their organic cotton range had great textures, with an authentic, vintage aspect,” he said. Stefanie Vermeulen, production manager for the soon-to-be- launched children’s brand, Fy, based in Belgium, said, “The cost of eco-friendly fabrics is a great problem, as people won’t buy product that is too highly priced.” Building a whole collection around eco-friendly fabrics can also limit design, she said, adding she found a lack of interesting coated fabrics in the category. Meanwhile, some buyers voiced concern about potential DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY FABRIC Figli di Michelangelo Calamai’s recycled jersey and the fl oor at Première Vision. political minefi elds linked to the eco-friendly domain. “We’re looking to incorporate eco-friendly elements, but you really have to have done your research before going Calamai, an Italian manufacturer that specializes in recycled fab- there,” said French actress Lou Doillon, who was scouting rics and organic African cotton. fabrics for her second clothing collection for Lee Cooper. “I’ve been watching this manufacturer for a long time and this “Fibers might be eco-friendly, but the dyeing process often season they have come up with a range of incredibly fi ne recycled isn’t,” said a spokeswoman for Helmut Lang. “There’s a lot of jerseys,” she said, adding the fi rm’s offer ticks all of the boxes in the false advertising.” ethical and sustainable fi elds. “It’s impressive to see what was once used Jo Conlon, senior fabric technologist for Crystal Martin clothing re-enter the chain as a fi ber.” International Ltd., which supplies eco- and fair trade-friendly fabrics A new Japanese mill, Ichimura Sangyo Co. Ltd., also caught her eye, special- to Marks & Spencer, said she was reconsidering using soya due to a current izing in textiles made using Apexa, a biodegradable polymer. debate questioning its eco-friendly status. “They also presented a package of fasteners and trimmings made using the Apexa “Instead, we’re looking for bamboo and Tencel, as well as hemp-based fi bers that are polymer [in association with other manufacturers],” she said. being viewed as a good future alternative to cotton,” she said, adding she was particular- Many designers were after lightweight fabrics. ly impressed by the range of fi bers presented by the South Korean newcomer G-Vision. “We love the organic cotton range at Avanti, but they tend to be a bit rough to the “They were on a par with those from European mills that have been out of our touch, as it’s grown in Texas where it’s windy,” said Kaito Hori, co-founder of the budget until now,” said Conlon, adding the fi rm’s lightweight jerseys were particularly Paris-based contemporary brand Commuun. beautiful. He complained of a dearth of organic mills at the show compared with the last session. Meanwhile, Veronika Kapsali, director of the British fi rm MVR Partners, which “Japanese manufacturers are extremely well advanced in that respect, so we’re sources eco-friendly fabrics, lauded the developments at Figli di Michelangelo sourcing from over there for now,” he said. 12 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2007 China Backlash: The Ethics of

Continued from page one Toys made in China, such to maintain the nation’s status as the world’s low-cost factory across as this Batman action a variety of product categories. This could result in even more short- fi gure from Mattel, have cuts being taken by suppliers as they subcontract out more of their been found to contain production. (See related story, next page.) unsafe levels of lead. Recent safety recalls of Chinese-made toys, bibs and tooth- paste prompted consumer outcries and governmental reviews in both the U.S. and China that could lead to new regulations in both countries. The misery and human toil of sweatshops never fails to resonate with Western consumers at some level, and the green issue has gained traction in the last year, especially with tales of industrial pollution making front-page news. What is becoming clear in these scandals is the relentless drive toward lower and lower prices — whether it’s a toy or T-shirt — in turn comes at a price, be it greater pollution, displaced popula- tions or possible safety hazards. “This is potentially hugely important — all these issues do be- come lumped together,” said Charles Kernaghan, director of the National Labor Committee, a watchdog group that has uncovered worker abuses, such as those discovered in special Jordanian trade zones last year. “If there are a few more recalls [of Chinese prod- ucts], then I think we’re going to see some real change.” While these issues rarely impact the luxury or high-end designer world, they could come to bear more and more on designers and ce- lebrities as they increasingly strive to broaden the bandwidth of their brands, be it Karl Lagerfeld for H&M, Vera Wang for Kohl’s or Sarah Jessica Parker for Steve & Barry’s. And, while none of these brands have PHOTO BY SHAWN THEW/EPA/CORBIS SHAWN PHOTO BY been involved in these issues up to now, consumers are un- coming to us. There are a lot of people talking about it. Right likely to give any company a now it’s toys, but it’s not going to be long until apparel gets pass on product safety in the onto that list.” long run. REUTERS/CORBIS PHOTO BY Given the catch-as-catch-can nature of Washington politics “When it comes to the and policy making, fashion companies could get caught up in the point where children are sweep of changes, even if they avoid a consumer safety scandal. sucking on a toy with lead For instance, Sen. Susan Collins (R., Maine) said the Senate paint on it, that’s where Homeland Security and Governmental Affairs Committee they draw the line,” said would investigate the safety standards not only for children’s Kernaghan. “What will the toys, but also clothing in the current Senate session. Congress, what will the ad- When it comes to new standards, industry tends to favor ministration do to guarantee voluntary guidelines and a market-based approach in which the safety of these products? the ultimate consumer would punish brands whose policies It’s something that’s so pow- fail to keep their goods and supply chain up to snuff. That erful and so frightening to might no longer be enough, though. people [that] it does bring it “We’ve seen too many instances in which companies can Industrial pollution is an counter any bad publicity with clever p.r.,” said Robert Reich, right into their home.” increasing problem in China. Paul Charron, former who tackled sweatshop issues as former president Clinton’s chairman and chief executive labor secretary, in response to e-mail questions. “Moreover, offi cer of Liz Claiborne Inc., it’s far from clear that consumers are willing or able to keep said China has had such incredible growth, it’s “like the Wild, Wild West.” the pressure on companies to clean up their acts.” “There’s a lot of pollution in the Pearl River Delta,” Charron said. “There has been Big changes, though, are going to require some kind of buy-in from the consumer/voter. unbridled growth without appropriate checks and balances. I think that period of un- “If Congress is going to make any headway, the public has to be willing to pay more bridled, undisciplined growth is about to be over.” — in the form of a carbon tax if we want to avoid global warming, for example, or It isn’t just China. Much of the apparel supply chain relies upon the developing higher prices if we want higher wages and better working conditions,” said Reich, world, where it can be diffi cult for companies to get a handle on their suppliers. But now a professor of public policy at the University of California at Berkeley. “There’s now consumers want companies to do just that, and they might start expecting even the rub. And I’m not sure the public is willing to bite these bullets quite yet.” more guarantees that fi rms aren’t polluting or otherwise cutting corners, just as they Consumers have indicated that they are willing to pony up more money for goods did with sweatshops in the past. produced ethically, or for products labeled organic. Anecdotally, this can be seen by “The balance is tipping a bit and now we do have product safety and climate a proliferation of fashion lines at least claiming to be “green,” though that means dif- change and environmental stuff on the front burner as we didn’t before,” said Barbara ferent things in different instances, and charging a premium. The same applies to the Franklin, commerce secretary under former president George H.W. Bush and a con- beauty industry. sumer product safety commissioner in the Seventies. More scientifi cally, a 1999 survey by Marymount University showed that 86 percent of “Right now, there are some different points of view, what we expect and what the the people polled would pay an extra dollar on a $20 apparel purchase if it were guaran- developing world’s trying to do,” said Franklin. “It’s just one of the fault lines between teed to not come from a sweatshop. Similarly, three-quarters of consumers would avoid developed and developing as we become more and more global.” shopping at a store they knew to sell goods produced under sweatshop conditions. The cultural differences or levels of development that have contributed to environmen- That attitude, if extended to environmental and safety issues and brought fully to tal and other problems require more of a multifaceted understanding from companies. bear, could increase pressure on brands. “A lot of the sins of the father are now coming back to haunt the sons and daugh- Harmful chemicals that might work their way into fashions on store shelves and ters,” said Elaine Hughes, president of executive search fi rm E.A. Hughes & Co. into waterways outside of factories are also a worker safety issue. Such a connection Sourcing executives have had to evolve beyond their traditional role as experts of the helps give industrial pollution a human face, which makes combating it an easier sell technical aspects of making goods overseas, she said. to the consumer. “They need to be a little more well rounded in understanding the supply chain and “The antisweatshop movement probably hasn’t paid enough attention to this,” logistics pieces to it,” said Hughes. said Bob Jeffcott, policy analyst at the Maquila Solidarity Network, which agitates As a result, fashion companies are starting to take a broader look at ethical stan- for worker rights. “We have to make sure the consumers are also equally aware of the dards in their sourcing practices. impact of these dangerous chemicals used in the production of these products.” “What we’ve been doing has been focused on labor and safety in the factories,” Unions also are taking note and planning to mobilize. said Laura Wittman, vice president of compliance and human rights at Jones Apparel Bruce Raynor, general president of apparel union UNITE HERE, said the spate of Group. “However, we do anticipate expanding that to consider environmental and tainted products from China is a serious blow to the sourcing status quo. other areas.” “This is not going to go away,” said Raynor. “This is the biggest major development The intertwining of product safety, environmental and sweatshop concerns marks since the sweatshop issue.” a signifi cant evolution in the sourcing landscape navigated by fashion brands, retail- Raynor pointed to Wal-Mart and said the company was being impacted by cam- ers and importers in general. The combination of the three issues might be enough to paigns highlighting its business practices to consumers. Wal-Mart, the world’s largest awaken the consumer in ways worker conditions alone rarely have. retailer, has come under fi re for its antiunion efforts, its health care benefi ts and So far, apparel hasn’t been caught up in the product safety scandal beyond an in- conditions at overseas factories. vestigation by the government of New Zealand into unsafe levels of formaldehyde re- “The consumer is the boss and the consumer is now making judgments about portedly found in some Chinese-made apparel. Most apparel consumer safety issues sourcing,” said Raynor, who described the legacy of tainted consumer goods as the are centered on fl ammability and drawstrings that could choke children. “third leg” that will force the debate to a new level. However, there seems to have been some interest on the part of fashion companies “We need to see campaigns led by unions and student organizations,” he said. to make sure their goods don’t contain harmful substances. “You’re going to see consumers react with their buying power.” “The last four months have been crazy,” said Dina Dunn, marketing agent for the If interest groups are going to use ethical sourcing habits to nudge consumer be- International Oeko-Tex Association, who has been working to establish a U.S. busi- havior or attitudes on trade issues, they are going to have to make the issue “real” to ness for the Zurich-based fi rm that tests textiles for harmful substances. “Now, they’re shoppers. WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2007 13 WWD.COM f Low Prices Labor Shortages Push Wages Up By Kathleen E. McLaughlin there are several indicators China is not facing a labor shortage that would threaten its manu- “Until they can take it and turn it into something people can see, BEIJING — After nearly two decades of stag- facturing capabilities. Instead, there are pock- touch and feel — if they can take that message and make it concrete, nant wages and poor labor conditions, China’s ets of low labor supply and regional shortages, then it’s more likely to effect the way people think, but otherwise manufacturing workers have started demanding while other areas have an oversupply of labor. it’s abstract,” said Laura Peracchio, professor of marketing at the higher salaries, pushing up the price of produc- “[The] eventual end to surplus labor will be University of Wisconsin in Milwaukee. tion nationwide. an occasion to celebrate, since — if well man- They also are going to have to appeal to the early adopters According to labor researchers, wages for aged — it will lead to widespread sustainable im- — not just celebrities, but fashion-minded people who set trends. Chinese manufacturing jobs have risen on aver- provements in living standards, the ultimate goal Consumers generally don’t move quickly, though. age 10 to 15 percent annually over the past few of development,” the bank said in its September “Behavior is slow and hard to change,” stressed Peracchio. years. The increases have come in response to quarterly economic forecast for China. It also might be hard to change the dynamics between manu- growing employee shortages across the country, As yet, labor shortages and the increase in in- facturers, vendors and retailers. As John Eapen, chairman of the dustrial wages haven’t led the thousands of mul- American Apparel & Footwear Association’s environmental task as the migrant workers who primarily staff fac- force, told WWD in August: “You have to honor and reward suppli- tory lines opt to stay on the farm rather than tinational companies that have invested here ers that have the know-how, that have the knowledge level and have leave the countryside for negligible rises in in- to leave the country. Smaller fi rms may choose the resources to do the right thing. [If] you go for the cheap stuff, come. In addition, a large portion of the mas- to go to nations with lower wages, researchers this is what you get. When you don’t have the relationship and you sive migrant workforce, now estimated at be- said, but China retains huge competitive advan- don’t pay them properly, they’re trying to cut corners and you can tween 150 million and 200 million people, has tages because it has a valuable manufacturing get into trouble. When you have 2,000 suppliers, somebody’s going been working on the road for a decade and has and shipping infrastructure that smaller nations to cheat you.” pricier experience and skills. can’t afford. In addition, the researchers said, In the end, though, the bottom line might be that ethical sourc- “Compared to their previous positions, they can the Chinese government has positioned itself as ing, no matter how engaged the consumer is, is just good business. now ask for higher wages and packages, and bet- a hub of labor effi ciency. The implementation of such practices across the industry could re- ter working conditions,” said Cai Fang, director of And while China’s reputation has taken a sult in what Wal-Mart has found with its push for more environmen- the Institute of Population and Labor Economics beating with controversies over unsafe products tally friendly practices and products: The push has resulted in cost at the Chinese Academy of Social Sciences. and pollution, offi cials have stated in the past savings across the board. Cai, who recently completed a study on rising that they don’t want the country to simply be the “I’m seeing a rapid trend toward long-term sustainable enter- wages and labor shortages, said that from 2003 world’s lowest-cost manufacturer. China’s deci- prise that may increase costs somewhat,” said Steven Jesseph, ceo to 2006, the average salary of manufacturing la- sion in August to curb exports of labor-intensive, of Worldwide Responsible Apparel Production, a nonprofi t organi- zation specializing in certifi cation of ethically sourced goods. Labor shortages “When you start imposing systems at a factory, is there a cost across China have involved? Yes, but there are also effi ciencies that are gained,” said led to wage hikes. Jesseph, who retired from Sara Lee Branded Apparel in 2005 as vice president of compliance and risk management. “It therefore becomes an investment and there is a return on investment.” As with everything else in business, companies simply can’t af- ford to take their guards down. Kevin Burke, ceo of the American Apparel & Footwear Association, however, said the increase in freer trade after the elimination of a global system of quotas in 2005 has streamlined the supply chain and made it easier to source goods responsibly. “There are not as many factories making products as there were,” said Burke. “Now they can have long, steady relationships with factories. There are fewer and fewer bad players. They can’t afford to be in business anymore.”

borers, including those in textiles and apparel, low-cost products including garments, plastics rose by 21 percent. In 2003, the average industrial and certain types of yarn by requiring export de- worker earned $103 per month, compared with posits is aimed at moving the country’s manufac- $124 per month in 2006. Leading up to 2002, wage turing base toward higher-priced products. “The increases in the manufacturing sector were min- policy is not just an attempt to regularize the iscule for nearly two decades as industries relied management of the process trade, but a step to on a seemingly endless stream of workers arriving promote the sector’s healthy and sustainable de- in the eastern industrial areas from rural areas. velopment in the long run,” He Li, an offi cial with Yet China’s seemingly inexhaustible labor the China General Administration of Customs, supply is showing signs of strain. Across the na- said in the state-run Xinhua news service. tion, including the interior and western provinces The pressure on wages is expected to heat up where so many migrant laborers came from, pock- further, especially this year, as China struggles ets of worker shortages have started to appear. to cope with some of its highest consumer infl a- The fi rst came in the Pearl River Delta man- tion in more than a decade. Central government ufacturing hub in 2002. Researchers argue over economic planners have said a 3 percent rise the exact number of workers needed to oper- annually in the consumer price index — the ate factories and how much the shortage might main measure of infl ation — is the maximum grow. But China’s stature as the world’s manu- Chinese can accept. facturing giant and its growth means demand Fueled by soaring food prices largely due for workers will keep rising. to meat shortages from a disease that attacked “It’s not like in the past, when all a factory pork supplies, China’s CPI increased by 6.8 per- had to do was put up a sign and there would be cent in August, an 11-year record, according to people in line for jobs,” said Cai. the National Bureau of Statistics. The CPI may The wage increases are overdue, analysts increase 4.5 to 5 percent this year, based on gov- contend. During the fi rst two decades of eco- ernment and international estimates, and price nomic reform and expansion, as China’s labor- hikes are even higher in rural areas. With rising ers poured into factory towns, there was virtual- pressure on prices, there will be more calls for ly no overall salary increase in industrial work. higher salaries. Even though starting salaries were low and And with wages increasing, manufacturing working conditions less than ideal, factory work companies might start to look outside of China was lucrative enough to lure millions of farmers for production bases. Analysts say, however, that and others who couldn’t make much at home, losing the low-end producers who pay the least explained Li Chang’an, a researcher with the and choose China only for cheap labor will not China Labor Studies Center at Beijing Normal be a bad result. The government has already University. Not so now, numbers indicate. Help started moving forward with plans for an “in- wanted posters are common sights in most novation-based” economy by 2020 to replace major cities and employers have been forced straight manufacturing. A loss of corporate tax through old-fashioned rules of supply and de- breaks to attract foreign investment is also ex- mand to increase wages in response. pected to drive out the bottom-end producers. “China’s advantage for a long time has been “Some companies just want to absorb the The combination of product safety, environmental low-cost labor. Now it’s losing that edge a little blood of Chinese workers,” said Cai. “China and sweatshop concerns marks a change in the bit,” said Li. “But it has not totally disappeared.” doesn’t want those companies, so it’s fi ne, they sourcing landscape navigated by fashion brands. In a recent report, the World Bank stated can go.” FACTORY PHOTOS BY REUTERS/ALY SONG/LANDOV REUTERS/ALY PHOTOS BY FACTORY 14 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2007 WWD.COM YSL Exhibits Past Creations for Stage, Screen Too Faced Returns PARIS — Everyone knows fash- ion is theater. But what happens Lipstick to Lineup when theater becomes fashion? That is the subject of the lat- By Rachel Brown est exhibit at the Pierre Bergé- A new Too Faced Yves Saint Laurent Foundation, LOS ANGELES — Too Faced lipstick. titled “Yves Saint Laurent: co-founder Jerrod Blandino Theater, Cinema, Music-Hall and believes women are begin- Ballet,” which opens Wednesday ning to opt for a bolder lip night here. — whether shiny or matte. Many of Saint Laurent’s most And he’s putting his extravagant confections for the money where the tinted stage are on show, including the mouth is: Too Faced is re- fantastical bejeweled and feath- introducing lipsticks into ered creations the now-retired its spring cosmetics line- couturier whipped up for Zizi Two installations up after a six-year hiatus. Jeanmaire in her hit shows dur- from the exhibit. The Irvine, Calif.-based ing the Sixties and Seventies. brand’s eight-unit lipstick Visitors enter to see Saint collection is dubbed Lip Laurent’s fun costumes for the ballet “Notre Dame de Paris,” of Luxury and it features which played at the Opera de Paris in 1965, directed by champagne- and shea but- Roland Petit. ter-infused formulas with Saint Laurent had many fruitful collaborations with Petit, pink-brushed metal cases starting in 1959 with “Cyrano de Bergerac” and running that are topped with a through other hits like “Sheherazade” and “Les Forains.” stone mimicking a 17-carat “He loved the ballet,” said Bergé on Monday. “He was to- diamond. tally at ease in that world.” “For a long time, make- But Saint Laurent was equally at home in the world of up went into a shimmery fi lm. He dressed Claudia Cardinale in “The Pink Panther” phase. Gloss started to and put Isabelle Adjani in a black evening gown for Luc dominate the planet and Besson’s “Subway.” lipsticks faded back,” said Most memorable, perhaps, are the outfits YSL gave Blandino. “But there is a Catherine Deneuve for her role as a bored wife-turned-pros- resurgence of retro glam. We are going back into that more seri- titute in director Luis Buñuel’s “Belle de jour.” The black ously made-up look.” frock with a white satin collar Deneuve wore in the fi lm is Too Faced dug into its archives of lip stains to create the color on display. palette. A deep blue-red called Drop Dead Red is derived from a Though Saint Laurent had myriad collaborations with the shade Too Faced crafted for Madonna in 1999. A fi re engine red theater, he only designed both sets and costumes on one oc- labeled Runway Red is a take on a hue made for Gwen Stefani, casion. That was in 1978 for a production of Jean Cocteau’s and a certain newsworthy pop icon whom Blandino declined “L’Aigle à deux têtes” at the Théâtre de l’Athénée. “It was a to name inspired great success,” recalled Bergé. Celebrity Meltdown, a An entire room in the exhibit is devoted to the sumptuous gold-tinged rose. stage set with its elaborately carved, eagle-like chair and tow- “I definitely think

ering candelabra. BIANCHI STEFANO PHOTOS BY BEAUTY BEAT that darker lipsticks are significant, but I don’t think we should discount the basics like nude or pink,” he said. “It is going to be about color-drenched lipsticks. Even if they Obituary are nude, they are going to make a statement.” The price of lipstick — $18 at retail — remains unchanged since the product was in the early repertoire of Too Faced, which Leda Pucci, Mannequin Manufacturer, 87 will turn 10 years old next year. “I am hoping to gain on volume,” said Jeremy Johnson, Blandino’s founding partner. “It is really By David Moin Leda raised in The Bronx before important for us not to overprice because we feel it should be af- “Lee” moving to Westchester and then fordable to everybody.” eda “Lee” Pucci, who with Pucci Manhattan. Before starting the Too Faced projects the lipsticks will generate $1.5 million to Lher late husband Nicholas business with her husband, $2 million in their fi rst year and plans to add about four shades founded the Pucci Manikin Co. who died in 1988, Pucci was (two are likely to be seasonal) for the fall. In total, the company in the basement of their Mount a hairstylist for mannequins. generated $52 million in sales last year and estimates that sales Vernon, N.Y., home in the That experience gave her the will increase by 30 percent this year. Fifties, died of pancreatic can- idea to form the mannequin re- By resurrecting lipsticks, Too Faced is gambling that lip gloss’ cer on Sept. 27. She was 87. pair fi rm. momentum is ebbing — and there’s some evidence in the brand’s Pucci Manikin, now known She was active in Ralph favor. Katherine Heigl, Heidi Klum and Kate Walsh all sported as Ralph Pucci International, Pucci International until be- bright red puckers at the recent Emmy Awards. And although was originally a mannequin coming ill last January. “When Kline & Co. reported that lipsticks’ total sales in the U.S. declined repair company that evolved it came to business, she was by 3.8 percent during 2006, the market research fi rm forecasts into a mannequin design and incredibly tenacious and feisty, that they will experience a 2.8 percent bounce through 2011. manufacturing fi rm. Pucci’s son yet very elegant and extremely To help support the lipstick launch, Too Faced is boosting its Ralph took over in the Eighties, fashionable, and up until a 2008 advertising budget by some 35 to 45 percent from this year to transforming it into a company year ago, she still came to work more than $3 million. The campaign has yet to be fully developed, creating high-end mannequins at 8:15 and left at six,” Ralph but the company is considering a lipstick sample program and in the likenesses of top models Pucci said. “Behind the scenes, will be placing in-store visual displays in its key accounts. Too and collaborating on mannequin designs with top she had her fi ngers in everything. Business and Faced is available in 550 doors in the United States, including fashion designers and illustrators. Ralph Pucci Pucci were in her blood.” Sephora, Ulta and Nordstrom. International, based at 44 West 18th Street in the In addition to Ralph, Pucci is survived by an- But Too Faced isn’t betting the house on lipsticks. The com- Chelsea section of Manhattan, has further evolved other son, John, three grandchildren, Michael, pany has entered into a 50-50 partnership with Fuze Beverages, into an eclectic showroom for international deco- Nicole and Jennifer, and a great-grandson. which was bought by the Coca-Cola Co. earlier this year, on three rators, furniture designers, photographers and A funeral Mass is scheduled for 10 a.m. Saturday lip glosses that will be released for December and January. The illustrators, and continues to design and manu- at Epiphany Roman Catholic Church, 22nd Street and lip glosses — in blueberry raspberry, dragon fruit lime and straw- facture mannequins for stores such as Saks Fifth Second Avenue in Manhattan. In lieu of fl owers, contri- berry melon fl avors — cost $18.50 each and contain carnitine, Avenue and Neiman Marcus. butions may be made to St. Jude’s Children’s Research Super Citrimax, chromium and vitamin C. They are meant to Pucci was born in Gallipolis, Ohio, and was Hospital, P.O. Box 50, Memphis, Tenn., 38101. suppress appetites like Fuze’s Slenderize drinks. Their tag line: “Always on the lips, never on the hips.” “We will defi nitely look at what lip glosses work for us and won’t work for us,” said Johnson. “We are never going to walk away from it [lip gloss] because there is going to be a customer Asics Chairman Kihachiro Onitsuka, 89 for both lip gloss and lipstick. There is just going to be a bigger ihachiro Onitsuka, chairman of Asics Corp., until his death. He led the company to become the variety for the consumer.” Ka leading footwear and activewear company, world’s fi fth largest sporting goods manufacturer. died of heart failure in a hospital in Kobe, Japan, Born May 29, 1918, in Tottori Prefecture in west- on Saturday. He was 89. ern Japan, Onitsuka made it his mission after World Changes at Hermès Onitsuka founded Onitsuka Co. Ltd. in 1949, as War II to inspire young people through sports. PARIS — Hermès announced Friday two executive changes here. the fi rst athletic shoe company in Japan. In 1977, In addition to his business career, Onitsuka Catherine Fulconis, formerly managing director of Hermès Onitsuka merged with equipment manufacturer was president of the Japan Basketball Association Parfums, has become chairman of its board. G.T.O. Co. and activewear vendor Jelenk Co. to and lifetime honorary president of the World Veronique Gautier, who has been managing director of Hermès form Asics, a name derived from the Latin phrase Federation of the Sporting Goods Industry. since April 2006, also takes on the title of chairman of Hermès anima sana in corpore sano — a sound mind in a He also was an author of works including “My Parfums’ supervisory board. sound body. Onitsuka became Asics’ president, Personal History” (1992). Both executives report directly to Patrick Thomas, Hermès’ and in 1992 was named chairman, a post he held — Whitney Beckett chief executive offi cer. WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2007 15 WWD.COM J’aime Collection Courts Wider Audience By Rusty Williamson also want to try to keep ahead of the com- petition. There are now so many knitwear aime Pressly is on a roll with an Emmy, knockoff lines out there at bargain or dis- Ja baby and now a lifestyle fashion col- count stores that are so poorly made but lection launching for spring. that cost $20 or less.’’ Pressly, who last month won the Spring wholesale prices range from Best Supporting Actress in a Comedy $50 for a pair of city shorts to $120 for a Emmy for her role in the NBC hit silk dress. There’s lots of navy, chocolate, “My Name Is Earl,’’ plans to launch rust and white, as well as Indian ethnic J’aime Collection on Oct. 15 during Los and paisley prints, among others. Angeles Fashion Week. Pressly, who turned 30 in July, has had J’aime Collection marks the rebranding quite a year. In May, she and her fi ancé, and expansion of her two-year-old con- hip-hop DJ Eric Cubiche, became the temporary knitwear line called J’aime by parents of a son, Dezi James. Jaime Pressly, which has been sold mainly Becoming a mother has expanded to upscale women’s specialty stores. Now Pressly’s creative awareness as a de- knits are only a part of the line. signer and inspired her to look ahead for “Why am I doing this? I want to reach ways to grow the business, she said. more women and address a broader range “I’m showing at least 35 to 40 styles for of their lifestyles with my designs,’’ Pressly spring, and then we’ll offer additional said in an interview. “My collection is now capsule deliveries of new styles between Looks from a comprehensive ready-to-wear brand that the major seasonal collections,’’ Pressly J’aime Collection. includes casual, career and party styles said. “There are a range of dress sil- FOR LIGHTBOX STUDIO GIULIANO BEKOR PHOTOS BY that can be dressed up or down. houettes from baby dolls to sundresses, Bardot as her in-house design collabora- to help me execute my vision.” “Before my line was a traditionally wide and slim pants, several styles of tor to help produce the array of designs Pressly is succinct about what she simple knitwear collection mostly made shorts, jackets and other classics as well and concepts. wants to accomplish. of Modal, a versatile and washable knit as trend-driven items. And I absolutely “There’s a great creative and produc- “The collection, as always, was de- fabric,’’ she said. “Now knits are only have plans to do brand extensions into tive energy when Renee and I collabo- signed fi rst and foremost to fi t and fl at- part of the story. We’re featuring for other fashion and lifestyle categories in rate on the collection,’’ Pressly said. “I ter the body of every woman,’’ she said. spring washed linen, cotton voile, stretch the future.” am totally enjoying being as creative as I “My goal is to design clothes that make cotton sateen, silk, chiffon and eyelet. We She hired French designer Renee want to be and then working with Renee women look and feel confi dent.”

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SHOWROOM/OFFICE SPACE 718-418-9354 Attn: Sherry packs/design/sample apprvl/etc. $55-65K AVAILABLE FOR SUBLEASE HELP WANTED Call Les Richards at (212) 221-0870 PLEASE E-MAIL RESUME TO: [email protected] BEAUTIFUL OPEN LOFT SPACE. PRODUCTION SWEATERS Design PATTERNMAKER RENOVATED WITH GREAT VIEWS, DRAPER Well established Dress/Sportswear Co. LIGHT, WINDOWS AND TERRACE. Major apparel co. seeks produc- Dress/Sportswear Co. seeks an experi- Assistant Designer TD Director/Head Pat Mkr $150K++ seeks an experienced Patternmaker. enced Draper. Must be able to cut and Run Multiple Divisions. Dom/Int’l Fax resumes: 212-575-5505 OWNER • [email protected] tion manager with sourcing drape/ Fax resumes to: 212-575-5505 product development, private Sweater / Knitwear [email protected] 212-947-3400 Sweater / knitwear co. seeks motivated label and costing experience EDI/IT MGR person who is hungry to learn to join to work with design and sales Fashion Co w/ warehouse in LIC seeks our team. 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