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VOLUMES 59 TO 73 Index The Alpine Journal 1953-68 Compiled by D. F. o. Dangar SBN 9°°523 04- 2 The Alpine Club, 74- South Audley Street, London, WI Y 5FF Preface The present volume of the Index to the Alpine Journal, the fourth in the series, carries the Index from 1953 (Volume 59) to 1968 (Volume 73), the last year before the change of the Journal into a single annual volume. The proposal for this continuation of the consolidated Index was made in late 1968, when the Committee invited Mr D. F. O. Dangar to undertake it. His willingness to do this in addition to the heavy burden of the Assistant Editor- ship of the Alpine Journal itself, and the speed with which he completed the vast amount of work involved, are very greatly appreciated; and the Alpine Club has recognised the outstanding contribution which he has made to the objects of the Club, through his work both on the Alpine Journal and on suc- cessive volumes of the Index, by electing him to Honorary Membership. The thanks of the Club are also due to Mrs Sarah Hollis for her work on the typescript. Charles Evans President May I970 Foreword This Index has been compiled on the same basis as the previous volume, but, to save space, the writers of obituaries and reviews have not been indexed. In addition to portraits, illustrations that have been indexed are, in general, those of single mountains or mountain ranges which are likely to be of geo- graphical interest. Pictures of pitches, or small sections of a climb, high camps and similar subjects have not been indexed: although of contemporary interest, it is felt that such illustrations, which usually in any case are referred to in the associated articles, can be omitted without serious detriment to the value of the Index. The following abbreviations have been used: Aig. = Aiguille port. = portrait asc. = ascent Pt = Point C.A.F. = Club Alpin Fran<;ais Pta = Punta cr. = crossed, crossing Pte = Pointe desc. = descent recce = reconnaissance gl. = glacier ref. = reference ill. = illustration tr. = traverse, traversed Mt = Mount, Mont U.LA.A. = Union Internationale Mte = Monte des Associations d' N.Z. = New Zealand Alpinisme O.A.V. = Osterreichischer Alpen U.LA.G.M. = Union lnternationale Verein des Associations des obit. = obituary Guides de Montagnes vol. = volume D. F. O. Dangar May I970 Index to volumes 59 to 73 A ABALAKOV,V.: port., 64 74 Achar Zorn II: 2nd asc. 73, 89 Abanico, Pico (Venezuela): 3rd asc., 67 Aconcagua: 1St asc. by S face, 59463, 284 6017 4th, & 1St by SW face, 67 285, 337 height, 59463,61 549 Abi Gamin: 2nd asc., 60 174 exploration of E ridge, 61 540 3rd asc., 60 385 notes on the history of, 71 261,72143 Abominable Snowman: discussion re, 60 5th asc. by S face, 73 92 297,6151, lIO, 340 ill., S face (route of 1St asc.), 60 18,71 protective measures for, 62 179 260-1,266 seen in the Pamirs, 63 130 from NW, 71 260-1 search for in Kulu, 63 223 W face showing normal route, 71 found eating frogs, 63 259 262 on Mt Everest, 65 99 NNE face (routes), 71 264 not found in the Pamirs, 65 99 WSW face (routes), 71 264 seen on a gl., 66 167 Adam, J. A. : his book: A Traveller's search for in Rolwaling valley, 66 343 Guide to Health, 71 339 hitherto unrecorded mention of, 67 166 Adam (Swat): asc., 70 208 Abraham, G. D.: obit., 70 359 Adamello group: crs. in, 69 280 Abseiling: traditional methods of, 73 108 Adare Saddle (Antarctica): cr., 73180 Accidents: Adele, Cerro: 1St asc., 63 259 annual summaries of Alpine: Afella n Ouanoukrim (Atlas): ascs., 67 67 1955: 61 389 1961: 68 299 Affentranger, 1.: his book: (with 1956: 63130 1962: 61}135 A. Balliano) La Strada e Questa, 61 568 1957: 64 122 1964: 71143 Afghanistan: Abinger expedition to, 1958: 65 96 1965: 72 138 1960,66139 1959: 66 160 1966: 73 107 maps of, 72 324 1960: 67159 1967: 73 256 Africa: mountaineering in, 62 104 in American mountaineering, 68 334 see also p 55 below Aig. d' Argentiere, 66 394 Agassiz, L.: climbing career, 68 209 Aig. Noire de Peuterey, 64 248 Agner, Mte: attempt, 70 300 Aig. Verte, 69 290 Aguelzim (Atlas): asc., 67 67 Atna, 73 271 Aguja Negra (Bolivia): 1st asc., 67 170 Casiri Este, 72 297 Aguja Nevada: 1St asc. of highest peak, Cho Oyu, 65 90 71 137 Ecrins, 64 247, 65139 Aiada, Boechetta d': cr., 66 156, 368 Gangchhen Ledrub, 69 125 Aids: artificial, 62 7-9, 46, 89,100 Gross Glockner, 63 250 Aiguille, Mt: Khinyang Chhish, 67 342 1st asc.: by SE face, 62 176 Lauteraarjoch, 60 172 by SW pillar, 70 251 Matterhorn, (1865) 61491,71 124, by 'voie du 29 May', 70 252 (1959) 64 248 ill., from Rochers du Parquet, 70 Mercedario, 65 242 252-3 Mt Cook, 60 382, 65 250, 69 300 Ailama: by NW face, 64 246 Mt Kenya, 67 364 Ailefroide : Mt McKinley, 60 176, 368,7391,268, Central Peak: 2nd asc. by N face, 61 269 541 Mt Rolleston, 71319 ill., & arete Coste Rouge from Pic Mukar Beh, 73 246 Sans Nom, 61 89 Petit Dru, 64 248, 66 376, 67 209 Aircraft: in the Alps, 67 156, 68 300 Phurbi Chyachumbu gl., 63 105 in the Himalaya, 71 77 Pik Garmo, 67 342 Airport: a glacier, 66 380 Pumori, 67169 Air Rescue Service: at Zermatt, 66 160 Rondoy, 69 113 Air transport: in the Alps, 60 378 Ruwenzori, 61 214 Aitchison, 1. G.: obit., 70 360 Saraghrar, 64 lI6 Aitken, J. R.: obit., 70 362 Tirich Mir, 67 352 Akela Qila: asc., 61 49 Watzmann, 66 385 ill., with Twins & Ashagiri, 61 51 2 A Akher Chioh (Hindu Kush): 1st asc., Alpine Club: 72 122,225 early circulars, 62 26 ill.,72210-II original members, 62 27-9 Aksoual (Atlas): attempt, 71 45 correspondence re, 62 29 ill., 71 260-1 dining club, 62 37 Alack, F.: his book: Guide Aspiring, jubilee, 62 76 73123 pictures, 63 96 Ala Dag: ascs. in, 60 369 rejected candidates, 68 269, 69 139 by NW ridge, 68 124 its archives & their uses, 71 285 Alam Kuh: ascs. & tr., 6164 & the Alpine Climbing Group, 72 197 by N face, 61 65 addresses by Presidents: ill., N face, N spur & NW ridge, 61 64 Elliott, 59 23 I N face, 61 64-5 Herbert, 61 3 ice-curtain of NNW face, 6164-5 Hunt,64 I Alaska: ascs. in, 60 31, 65 252, 67 357, Finch, 67 I 68 320, 73 270 Somervell,70 I Parachute Brigade expedition to, 62 121 Centenary: a visit to, 72 76 plans for, 61 544 see also p 55 below special number of A.J., vol. 62 Albert, Pte: attempt by W face, 66 78 corrections to, 63 134 Albigna hut: opening of new, 63123 Zermatt meet, 63 53, 87 Alchori gl.: ascs. from, 65 40, 43 dinner,6351 Ali Ratni Tibba: reece, 71 246 London dinner, 63 61 ill., 71244-5 corrections to menu, 63 129 Allain, P.: his book: L' Art de l'Alpinisme, exhibition, 63 77 61425 opening of, 63 75 Allegra, E.: port., 59 299 reception, 63 80 Allinccapac: attempts, 65 86 poem,6395 ascs., 66 150, 151 gifts, 63 122 ill., 65 86, 87 exhibitions: Almer, Christian: port., 62 34 59444 Alpamayo: 1st asc. of highest summit, 61 II8 63260 gifts: attempt, 65 88, 221,69223 60 376, 386 64131,132 history, & 1st asc. by N ridge, 72 18 63 122 7°321 2nd asc., 73109 honorary members: ill., from S, 69 94-5 5986, 343,458 68 295 W face, 69 212-13 60376 7°320 N ridge, 72 30 61207 71 133 Alpes Maritimes: climbs in, 6996 honours & awards: notes on, 70 281 59 86, 214, 343,458 67343 frontier rectifications in, 71 143 60169,376 69135,282 ill., 70 284-5 61387,544 70133,320 Alphubel: by Westgrat, 61539,68 II6 63122,250 71142,3°6 by Rotgrat, 63 90, 92 64121,237 72 133 attempt, 65 215 6592 73106,235 Alpine Climbing Group: aims & 66 159,380 constitution, 61 212 Alpine Journal: book: Selected Climbs in the Range of beginning of, 62 23 Mont Blanc, 63 143,73 II7 Farrar as editor, 62 61 1963 Bulletin reviewed, 68 331 notes on, 62 62, 66,68 and the Alpine Club, 72 197 Strutt as editor, 62 88 Alpine Club: change of editor, 67 154,72320 membership anniversaries, 59 214, centenary of publication, 68 128 343,64237,65224 cost of, 68 360 founding of, 62 24, 64 239 back numbers for sale, 72 365 minutes of early meetings, 62 25 proposed changes, 73 303 A 3 Alpine Club: Arnatt, J.: library, some acquisitions during 1954, 'The North face direct of Sl'mdre 60145 Trolltind', 73 I meets: Ambu Gyabjen: asc., 65 4 Welsh centenary, 62 180 America: early ascs. in, 62 45 il1.,63 II8 recent climbing in, 62 105 Zermatt centenary, 63 53, 87 Spanish Pan-American expedition, La Berarde, 1959, 64 260 72317 Skye, 1960,65222 see also p 55 below Saas Fee, 1960,66 154 Amery, L. S.: death, 60 376, 415 obituary: obit. & port., 61 189 5986,214,343,458 67200,378 Arniel (Uganda): 1st asc., 65 245, 69 228 60169,376 68163, 342 il1.,69 228 612°7, 387, 544 69169,318 Amji Rimal: asc., 68 203 63122,250 70182,359 Amni Machin: estimated height, 65 98 64121,279 7119°,343 1st asc., 66 274 65 133, 260 72184,355 ill., 66 276 66 182,419 73129,295 Anawakaluk (Baffin Island): attempt, Pension Fund, 59 90 67109 proceedings: Ancohurna: asc., 69 220 59231,49° 68363 Andean journals: rev., 66176,68335, 60441 69332 70 175, 72 177 61582 70383 Andenmatten, Franz: biographical note, 63271 71 357 70202 64299 72363 Anderegg, Jakob: his career, 66 89 66196,427 73301 Anderegg, Melchior: port., 62 34 67409 Anderson, G.: obit., 67154 Alpine farming: international co- Andes: operation to the rescue of, 65 235 ascs.
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    DE FR EN IT SUNNEGGA-ROTHORN 7 Standard 16 Chamois 28 White Hare 37 Riffelhorn MATTERHORN GLACIER 56 Kuhbodmen 65 Rennstrecke / Skimovie SOMMERSKI / BREUIL-CERVINIA 11 Gran Roc-Pre de Veau 39 Gaspard 9 Baracon PANORAMAKARTE / PLAN PANORAMIQUE / 1 Untere National 8 Obere National 17 Marmotte 29 Kelle 38 Rotenboden PARADISE 57 Aroleid 66 Theodulsee THEODULGLETSCHER 2 Cretaz 12 Muro Europa 46 Bontadini 2 10 Du Col PANORAMIC MAP / MAPPA PANORAMICA. 2 Ried 9 Tufteren 18 Arbzug 30 Mittelritz 39 Riffelalp 49 Bielti 58 Hermetji 67 Garten Buckelpiste 80 Testa Grigia 3 Plan Torrette-Pre de Veau 13 Ventina-Cieloalto 47 Fornet 2 11 Gran Sometta 2a Riedweg (Quartier- 10 Paradise 19 Fluhalp 31 Platte 40 Riffelboden 50 Blatten 59 Tiefbach 68 Tumigu 81 Führerpiste 3.0 Pre de Veau-Pirovano 14 Baby Cretaz 59 Pista Nera del Cervino 12 Gran Lago strasse, keine Skipiste) 11 Rotweng 32 Grieschumme 41 Landtunnel 51 Weisse Perle 60 Momatt 69 Matterhorn 82 Mittelpiste 3.00 Pirovano-Cervinia 16 Cieloalto-Cervinia 60 Snowpark Cretaz 14 Tunnel 2017/2018 3 Howette 12 Schneehuhn GORNERGRAT 33 Triftji 42 Schweigmatten 52 Stafelalp 61 Skiweg 70 Schusspiste 83 Plateau Rosa 3bis Falliniere 21 Cieloalto 1 62 Gran Roc 15 E. Noussan 4 Brunnjeschbord 13 Downhill 25 Berter 34 Stockhorn 43 Moos 53 Oberer Tiefbach 62 Furgg – Furi 71 Theodulgletscher 84 Ventina Glacier 4 Plan Torrette 22 Cieloalto 2 15a Sigari 5 Eisfluh 14 Kumme 26 Grünsee 35 Gifthittli 44 Hohtälli 54 Hörnli 63 Sandiger Boden 72 Furggsattel 85 Matterhorn glacier 5 Plan Maison-Cervinia 24 Pancheron VALTOURNENCHE