VOLUMES 59 TO 73

Index

The Alpine Journal 1953-68

Compiled by D. F. o. Dangar

SBN 9°°523 04- 2

The Alpine Club, 74- South Audley Street, London, WI Y 5FF Preface

The present volume of the Index to the Alpine Journal, the fourth in the series, carries the Index from 1953 (Volume 59) to 1968 (Volume 73), the last year before the change of the Journal into a single annual volume.

The proposal for this continuation of the consolidated Index was made in late 1968, when the Committee invited Mr D. F. O. Dangar to undertake it. His willingness to do this in addition to the heavy burden of the Assistant Editor- ship of the Alpine Journal itself, and the speed with which he completed the vast amount of work involved, are very greatly appreciated; and the Alpine Club has recognised the outstanding contribution which he has made to the objects of the Club, through his work both on the Alpine Journal and on suc- cessive volumes of the Index, by electing him to Honorary Membership.

The thanks of the Club are also due to Mrs Sarah Hollis for her work on the typescript. Charles Evans President

May I970 Foreword

This Index has been compiled on the same basis as the previous volume, but, to save space, the writers of obituaries and reviews have not been indexed.

In addition to portraits, illustrations that have been indexed are, in general, those of single or ranges which are likely to be of geo- graphical interest. Pictures of pitches, or small sections of a climb, high camps and similar subjects have not been indexed: although of contemporary interest, it is felt that such illustrations, which usually in any case are referred to in the associated articles, can be omitted without serious detriment to the value of the Index.

The following abbreviations have been used:

Aig. = Aiguille port. = portrait asc. = ascent Pt = Point C.A.F. = Club Alpin Fran<;ais Pta = Punta cr. = crossed, crossing Pte = Pointe desc. = descent recce = reconnaissance gl. = glacier ref. = reference ill. = illustration tr. = traverse, traversed Mt = Mount, Mont U.LA.A. = Union Internationale Mte = Monte des Associations d' N.Z. = New Zealand Alpinisme O.A.V. = Osterreichischer Alpen U.LA.G.M. = Union lnternationale Verein des Associations des obit. = obituary Guides de Montagnes vol. = volume

D. F. O. Dangar

May I970 Index to volumes 59 to 73 A

ABALAKOV,V.: port., 64 74 Achar Zorn II: 2nd asc. 73, 89 Abanico, Pico (Venezuela): 3rd asc., 67 Aconcagua: 1St asc. by S face, 59463, 284 6017 4th, & 1St by SW face, 67 285, 337 height, 59463,61 549 Abi Gamin: 2nd asc., 60 174 exploration of E ridge, 61 540 3rd asc., 60 385 notes on the history of, 71 261,72143 Abominable Snowman: discussion re, 60 5th asc. by S face, 73 92 297,6151, lIO, 340 ill., S face (route of 1St asc.), 60 18,71 protective measures for, 62 179 260-1,266 seen in the Pamirs, 63 130 from NW, 71 260-1 search for in Kulu, 63 223 W face showing normal route, 71 found eating frogs, 63 259 262 on Mt Everest, 65 99 NNE face (routes), 71 264 not found in the Pamirs, 65 99 WSW face (routes), 71 264 seen on a gl., 66 167 Adam, J. A. : his book: A Traveller's search for in Rolwaling valley, 66 343 Guide to Health, 71 339 hitherto unrecorded mention of, 67 166 Adam (Swat): asc., 70 208 Abraham, G. D.: obit., 70 359 Adamello group: crs. in, 69 280 Abseiling: traditional methods of, 73 108 Adare Saddle (Antarctica): cr., 73180 Accidents: Adele, Cerro: 1St asc., 63 259 annual summaries of Alpine: Afella n Ouanoukrim (Atlas): ascs., 67 67 1955: 61 389 1961: 68 299 Affentranger, 1.: his book: (with 1956: 63130 1962: 61}135 A. Balliano) La Strada e Questa, 61 568 1957: 64 122 1964: 71143 Afghanistan: Abinger expedition to, 1958: 65 96 1965: 72 138 1960,66139 1959: 66 160 1966: 73 107 maps of, 72 324 1960: 67159 1967: 73 256 Africa: in, 62 104 in American mountaineering, 68 334 see also p 55 below Aig. d' Argentiere, 66 394 Agassiz, L.: climbing career, 68 209 Aig. Noire de Peuterey, 64 248 Agner, Mte: attempt, 70 300 Aig. Verte, 69 290 Aguelzim (Atlas): asc., 67 67 Atna, 73 271 Aguja Negra (Bolivia): 1st asc., 67 170 Casiri Este, 72 297 Aguja : 1St asc. of highest , Cho Oyu, 65 90 71 137 Ecrins, 64 247, 65139 Aiada, Boechetta d': cr., 66 156, 368 Gangchhen Ledrub, 69 125 Aids: artificial, 62 7-9, 46, 89,100 Gross Glockner, 63 250 Aiguille, Mt: Khinyang Chhish, 67 342 1st asc.: by SE face, 62 176 Lauteraarjoch, 60 172 by SW pillar, 70 251 , (1865) 61491,71 124, by 'voie du 29 May', 70 252 (1959) 64 248 ill., from Rochers du Parquet, 70 Mercedario, 65 242 252-3 Mt Cook, 60 382, 65 250, 69 300 Ailama: by NW face, 64 246 Mt Kenya, 67 364 Ailefroide : Mt McKinley, 60 176, 368,7391,268, Central Peak: 2nd asc. by N face, 61 269 541 Mt Rolleston, 71319 ill., & arete Coste Rouge from Pic Mukar Beh, 73 246 Sans Nom, 61 89 Petit Dru, 64 248, 66 376, 67 209 Aircraft: in the Alps, 67 156, 68 300 Phurbi Chyachumbu gl., 63 105 in the Himalaya, 71 77 Pik Garmo, 67 342 Airport: a glacier, 66 380 , 67169 Air Rescue Service: at Zermatt, 66 160 Rondoy, 69 113 Air transport: in the Alps, 60 378 Ruwenzori, 61 214 Aitchison, 1. G.: obit., 70 360 Saraghrar, 64 lI6 Aitken, J. R.: obit., 70 362 Tirich Mir, 67 352 Akela Qila: asc., 61 49 Watzmann, 66 385 ill., with Twins & Ashagiri, 61 51 2 A

Akher Chioh (Hindu Kush): 1st asc., Alpine Club: 72 122,225 early circulars, 62 26 ill.,72210-II original members, 62 27-9 Aksoual (Atlas): attempt, 71 45 correspondence re, 62 29 ill., 71 260-1 dining club, 62 37 Alack, F.: his book: Guide Aspiring, jubilee, 62 76 73123 pictures, 63 96 Ala Dag: ascs. in, 60 369 rejected candidates, 68 269, 69 139 by NW ridge, 68 124 its archives & their uses, 71 285 Alam Kuh: ascs. & tr., 6164 & the Alpine Climbing Group, 72 197 by N face, 61 65 addresses by Presidents: ill., N face, N spur & NW ridge, 61 64 Elliott, 59 23 I N face, 61 64-5 Herbert, 61 3 ice-curtain of NNW face, 6164-5 Hunt,64 I Alaska: ascs. in, 60 31, 65 252, 67 357, Finch, 67 I 68 320, 73 270 Somervell,70 I Parachute Brigade expedition to, 62 121 Centenary: a visit to, 72 76 plans for, 61 544 see also p 55 below special number of A.J., vol. 62 Albert, Pte: attempt by W face, 66 78 corrections to, 63 134 Albigna hut: opening of new, 63123 Zermatt meet, 63 53, 87 Alchori gl.: ascs. from, 65 40, 43 dinner,6351 Ali Ratni Tibba: reece, 71 246 London dinner, 63 61 ill., 71244-5 corrections to menu, 63 129 Allain, P.: his book: L' Art de l'Alpinisme, exhibition, 63 77 61425 opening of, 63 75 Allegra, E.: port., 59 299 reception, 63 80 Allinccapac: attempts, 65 86 poem,6395 ascs., 66 150, 151 gifts, 63 122 ill., 65 86, 87 exhibitions: Almer, Christian: port., 62 34 59444 Alpamayo: 1st asc. of highest summit, 61 II8 63260 gifts: attempt, 65 88, 221,69223 60 376, 386 64131,132 history, & 1st asc. by N ridge, 72 18 63 122 7°321 2nd asc., 73109 honorary members: ill., from S, 69 94-5 5986, 343,458 68 295 W face, 69 212-13 60376 7°320 N ridge, 72 30 61207 71 133 Alpes Maritimes: climbs in, 6996 honours & awards: notes on, 70 281 59 86, 214, 343,458 67343 frontier rectifications in, 71 143 60169,376 69135,282 ill., 70 284-5 61387,544 70133,320 Alphubel: by Westgrat, 61539,68 II6 63122,250 71142,3°6 by Rotgrat, 63 90, 92 64121,237 72 133 attempt, 65 215 6592 73106,235 Alpine Climbing Group: aims & 66 159,380 constitution, 61 212 Alpine Journal: book: Selected Climbs in the Range of beginning of, 62 23 Mont Blanc, 63 143,73 II7 Farrar as editor, 62 61 1963 Bulletin reviewed, 68 331 notes on, 62 62, 66,68 and the Alpine Club, 72 197 Strutt as editor, 62 88 Alpine Club: change of editor, 67 154,72320 membership anniversaries, 59 214, centenary of publication, 68 128 343,64237,65224 cost of, 68 360 founding of, 62 24, 64 239 back numbers for sale, 72 365 minutes of early meetings, 62 25 proposed changes, 73 303 A 3

Alpine Club: Arnatt, J.: library, some acquisitions during 1954, 'The direct of Sl'mdre 60145 Trolltind', 73 I meets: Ambu Gyabjen: asc., 65 4 Welsh centenary, 62 180 America: early ascs. in, 62 45 il1.,63 II8 recent climbing in, 62 105 Zermatt centenary, 63 53, 87 Spanish Pan-American expedition, La Berarde, 1959, 64 260 72317 Skye, 1960,65222 see also p 55 below Saas Fee, 1960,66 154 Amery, L. S.: death, 60 376, 415 obituary: obit. & port., 61 189 5986,214,343,458 67200,378 Arniel (Uganda): 1st asc., 65 245, 69 228 60169,376 68163, 342 il1.,69 228 612°7, 387, 544 69169,318 Amji Rimal: asc., 68 203 63122,250 70182,359 Amni Machin: estimated height, 65 98 64121,279 7119°,343 1st asc., 66 274 65 133, 260 72184,355 ill., 66 276 66 182,419 73129,295 Anawakaluk (Baffin Island): attempt, Pension Fund, 59 90 67109 proceedings: Ancohurna: asc., 69 220 59231,49° 68363 Andean journals: rev., 66176,68335, 60441 69332 70 175, 72 177 61582 70383 Andenmatten, Franz: biographical note, 63271 71 357 70202 64299 72363 Anderegg, Jakob: his career, 66 89 66196,427 73301 Anderegg, Melchior: port., 62 34 67409 Anderson, G.: obit., 67154 Alpine farming: international co- Andes: operation to the rescue of, 65 235 ascs. : in Argentinian, 68 3I 5, 70 125, Alpinisme: amalgamation with La 71138,72317 Montagne, 60 371 Bolivian, 67 170, 68 315, 70124, Alps: expeditions by guideless British 72127,73 II9 parties in 1953, 59 214 Chilean,67 170, 353, 68 314, 70 141, Lord Fisher &,59217 73 119 season of 1954 in, 59 461 Colombian, 71 137,7392 British parties in 1961,66 373 new,67171 Altar (): asc., 6558 Patagonian,70 142, 72 147 early ascs., 65 59 Peruvian, 59 87, 64 260, 65 87, ill., from E, 65 55 68315,69125,70 124, 144,24°, Altar (Ecuador): 1st asc. of highest point, 71137,72124,146,316,73 II8 69127,71 151 Venezuelan, 68 317, 69126 history, 71 151 early Indian, 73 83 Altitude: effect of high, on man, 61 507 in 1955-6,61391,543 women's record, 60 176,64 258, 66389 in 1958, 64 125 medical aspects of climbing at high, notes, 60 387, 67 170, 353,72 146, 6816 73 II8 Alto de los Leones: ill., S face, 64 232 geographical description, 60 69, 79, Arna Dablam: attempt, 64133,65 I 280 1st asc., 66 351 bibliography, 60 77 ill., from NW, 65 6 massifs of, 60 284 N ridge & NW spur, 65 8 mountaineering clubs in, 60 292 from S, 66 348 'first' ascs. in, 64 125 S ridge, 66 348-9 expeditions: Oxford, 1960,66 150 & peaks over the Mera Col, 68 14-15 Japanese, 1960,66372 Arnatt, J.: 'The North face of Schwabian, 1961,67166 Trollryggen', 71 98 Reading University, 1962,68219 'Alpamayo, 1966',7218 map of Venezuelan, 69 122 4 A

Andes: Api: reece, 59 423 unclimbed 6000 m peaks of, 71 149 possible 1st asc., 59462 see also p 56-7 below 1St asc., 65 246 Andrews, A. N.: obit., 68163 ill., 59 424-5 Andrews, A. W.: Apolobamba, Cordillera de: ascs. in, his book: Selected Poems on West 64 125,6588, 175 Penwith and Reflections, 63 139 Arco, Cerro (patagonia): asc., 69 188 corrections to his poems, 64 250 ill., 69 188-9 obit., 65 133 Arctic: see P 57 below Angeles Nevado: 1st asc., 61 201 Arenales, Cerro: asc., 63 259, 69189 Ang Norbu: death, 65 90 Argentiere, Aig. d': by N face, 60 370 Angour (Atlas): tr., 6765 accident, 66 394 ascs., 71 47, 49 Argentine: Petit Diedre, 1st asc., 61 ill., 71 30-1 541 Ang Tharkay: autobiography reviewed, Argentino, Lago: visit to, 65158 61226 Arichiri (Andes): 1st asc., 69 218 Animals, Pass of the: cr., 71 243 Arolla: motor road opened to, 65 232 Anjuman Pass: cr., 72 68 Arolla, Pigne d': ski asc., 61 81 I: by N face, 66154 ill., from Annapurna South, 70236-7 proposed teleferique, 67 345 from Camp 3 on Gangapurna, 71 Arrigetch group (Alaska): climbs in, 78-9 721°9 Annapurna II: Japanese attempt, 1953, Artesonraju: 2nd asc., 71151 60174 Arthur, H.R.H. Prince: port., 59 282, British attempt, 1953,62 173 283 1st asc., 65 143 Ascents: for T.V. and B.B.C., 72 243 ill., 61 40-1 Asgard, Mt (Baffin Island): attempt, Annapurna III: 1st asc., 66 390 67107 Annapurna IV: Japanese attempt, 1953, ill., 67 102 60174 Ashagiri: asc., 6151 1st asc., 60 385 Ashby, R. C.: obit., 68 342 2nd asc., 62 173 'Ashenden': his book: The Mountains of 3rd asc., 65 149 My Life, 60 187 Annette, B. M.: 'Solo', 69233 Asia: see P 58 below Anniversaries: Alpine, 67 156 Asp-e-Safed: 1st asc., 66 247 a Slovene, 67 160 Ass, a wise: 63127 Anniversary Peak (Alaska): attempt, Assiniboine, Mt: 1st asc. by N face, 62127 7364,91,274 Anogol Zorn: 1st asc., 73 89 Atlas Mts: ascs. in, 66147,6765 Anrhemer: tr., 6770,7147 access to, 67 71 ill., 7131 winter expeditions to, 71 43, 275 Antarctica: Fuchs expedition, 61 208 history, 71 45 ascs. in, 61548,64132 climbing notes from 1966, 71 279 mountaineering in, 63 241, 67 226 Atna: 3rd asc., & accident, 73 271 highest mountain in, 63 261, 65 236 Atter, Mt (Greenland): asc., 72 52 New Zealand expedition, 65 249 origin of name, 7246 features named after A.C. members, 1St asc. 72 46 66166 ill., 72 30-1 proposed expedition to, 69 287 Attlee, C. G.: obit., 61 357 two highest summits climbed, 72 128 Aufschnaiter, P.: note: Langtrang Himal, other ascs. in, 72 128 69287 another active volcano in, 72 138 Aultllicke: I st cr., 59 457 Hillary's expedition, 1967,73 173 Aura, an Alpine: 63 I see also p 57 below Aurona, Pas so d': cr., 66 155, 386 Antisana: 1st asc. of SPeak, 70123 correction re, 67 346 Anzacs (New Zealand): asc., 72 259 Ausangate: attempt, 6440 Aparejo, El.: ill., S face, 64 232-3 ill., 64 38 B 5

Austen, Jane: quotation from Pride and Bandar Punch: attempt, 60174 Prejudice, 68 362 asc., 69 203 Austin, J. A.: climbs in the Lake Black Peak, attempt, 69 205 District, 65 101,67 172 Banff-Jasper Highway: 59 33 Australia: mountains of the central Banks, M. E. B.: 'Struggle for desert, 67 313 Rakaposhi', 61 449 notes, 70 337, 72148 'Two North American expeditions', see also p 63 below 71 19 Avalanches: mechanism of release, 70 57 his books: Commando Climber, 61 419 correction re, 70 322 Rakaposhi,65 113 suggested cause of, 71 3 I I Snow Commando, 67 191 how to estimate the danger of, 72 87 port., 61 456, 63 165 Axel Heiberg gl. (Antarctica): desc., Banner, H.l.: his book: (with P. Crew) 67347 Clogwyn du'r Arddu, 68332 Ayers Rock (Australia): asc., 67316 Banyang Peak (Himalaya): 1st asc., 73 249 ill., 67 314 Baring, Mt: by N face, 66 143 Ayrton, R.: 'Summer 1963 with Gaston ill.,66 144-5 Rebuffat', 69 95 Barker, G.: obit., 73 133 'Alpes Maritimes', 70 281 Barker, R.: his book: The Last Blue Azema, M. A.: Mountain, 65 113 his books: La Conquete du Fitz-roy, Barneby, T. P.: his book: European 59467 Alpine Flowers in Colour, 73 125 The Conquest of FitzRoy, 61 569 Barrow, W.: obit. & port., 59 448 Azrou n Tamadout (Atlas): 67 70 Barry, Martin: career, 59 19 Azucarani Peak: asc., 65 177 Bartrum, G. L.: obit., 65 260 Barun Saddle: 59 16, 17 BACHARACH,A. L.: his book: (with O. G. Barun valley: expedition to, 1953,60227 Edholm) Exploration Medicine, 70 347 ill., 61 24-5 Bacone, Piz: by N ridge, 64 262 Baruntse: 1st asc., 59462,60234 Badile, Piz: Basset, A.: obit., 60149 NE face: attempt, 59 208 Basso, Campanile: ascs., 60 375, 61385,64270,66375, ill., & Campanile Alto, 66 308 68293, 70 301 from SW, 66 308-9 1st British, 61 385 from E, 66 308-9 by N ridge, 61 541,64262 Batkin, J.: death, 72 325, 329 a storm on, 67 34 Battle, Mt (Baffin Island): asc., 67 102 by new route on NE face, 73 254 ill., 67 110 Badile, Torrione del: 1Stwinter asc., 73 Batu Mts (Ethiopia): note on, 61 347 254 ascs. in, 64 217 Baffin Island: Cambridge expedition to, Batura group: accident, 64 245 1961,6797 : expedition to, 65 48 Bailey, C.: obit., 63102 Bauer, P.: Baillie, R.: 'The Fairest Cape', 69103 his books: Das Ringen um den Nanga 'The Right-hand Pillar of Brouillard', Parbat I8S6-I9S3, 60181 7168 Kangchenjunga Challenge, 60 422 Ball, John: port., 62 16 The Siege of Nanga Parbat, I8S6- Balliano, A.: his book: (with L. I9S3, 61 422 Affentranger) La Strada e Questa, Baume, L.: 'The South Georgia Survey, 61568 1955-6',61465 Ball's Pyramid: attempt, 70136 Baume, P. A.: obit., 68 342 1st asc., 70 327 Bazarrabusa, T. B.: obit., 71 343 Balston, F. W.: obit., 70182 port., 71 348 Baltoro Kangri: 1st asc. of highest peak, Bears: in the Alps, 72 323 68306 Beauman, E. B.: 'The Centenary meet at Band, G. C.: 'Kangchenjunga climbed', Zermatt', 63 53 60 207 Beaumont, Pte: E face: 1st asc., 63119 his book: Road to Rakaposhi, 61 218 Bechtold, F.: death, 66 388 6 B

Beckey, F.: 'Climbs in Alaska, 1954', Blacker, L. V. S.: death, 69 282 6031 Blacker, W.: mountaineering career, Beetham, B.: obit., 68 343 61 354 Beletsky, E.: 'Mountaineering in the Blackshaw, A.: 'United Kingdom notes, U.S.S.R.', 61310 1955',61403 Dennen, J. J.: correct spelling of, 72133 'United Kingdom notes, 1956',61552 Bennett, C. F.: obit., 67 200 'Jangi Tau', 64 70 Bere, R. M.: his book: The Way to the 'The first exploration of the South Mountains of the Moon, 71 324 Staunings', 66 254 Bergell: ascs. in, 1959,64262 his book: Mountaineering, 71167, note on, 64 263 73284 Berglistock: 1st asc., 59 54 becomes editor of AlpineJournal, 72 Bernardi, A.: 320 his books: Il Gran Cervino, 69 310 Blaitiere, Aig. de: by NW ridge, 59 65, II Monte Bianco: dalle Esplorazioni 60370,6678,151 alla Conquista (I09I-I786), 71 171 by new route on W face, 59 461, 60 Bernd, E.: death. 7115,316 165,61 540,63245,64261,6995 Bernese Oberland: old & new climbs in, by E face, 61 540 72289 by SE ridge, 64267 Bernina, Piz: 3rd asc., 63 47 attempt by W face, 67 38 attempt in 1863, 6347 by new route on W face of N summit, Bernina group: ascs. & crs. in, 66 156, 376 72131 Bezingi Horseshoe: tr., 71312,7257 ill., N summit & NW ridge from ill., from last summit, Lialver, 72 58 Grands Charmoz, 59 68 some summits of, 72 62-3 W face, 60 165 panorama from near summit of Blakeney, T. S.: Dych Tau, 72 320 'Mountaineering and the British Bhattacharjya, B.: his book: Mountain Royal Family' 59 278 Sickness, 70 167 'Some notes on A. F. Mummery', 60 Bhiundar Khal: cr., 60 260 118 Bhulu Lhasa (): asc., 70 260 'Alpine Club Library. Some acquisi- Bhutan Himal: expeditions to, 70 106, tions during 1954',60 145 71281,72264 'The first ascent of the Trifthorn', 61 note on the mountains of, 70 118 348 highest mountain in, 72 325 'Two early mountaineers, Chapman ill., 70 110-II, 71 282, 72 321 and Blacker', 61 352 See also p 59 'The first ascent of the Matterhorn', Biafo-Hispar gl. system: tr., 61543 61493 : 1st desc. by S face, 59 465 'The rise of modern mountaineering, ill., 59 203 1854-65',6216 Big Ben (Heard Island): attempt, 68 300 'The opening of the Centenary exhi- 1st asc., 70 125, 273 bition', 63 75 ill., 70 276-'7 'Eckenstein: the man and the climber', Biiguinoussene (Atlas): tr. by NW 6571 ridge, 67 66 'John Thorn: mountaineer', 65199 Bilafond La: cr., 63188,192 'Early ascents of Mont Blanc; some Bill, A. L.: obit., 60 150 biographical footnotes', 66 316 Biner, Bernard: obit. & port., 70 378 'Failed A.C.', 68 269 Bionnassay, Aig. de: asc., 61 71 'Old Peter Taugwalder, 1820-88',70 Birchall, M.: death, 72127,297 26 Bird, L. W.: obit., 67 201 'The Matterhorn: a diary of events Birunga volcanoes: activity in, 64 257 after the disaster of 1865', 70 199 Bismarck gl.: il1.,61 276, 277 'Maurice Wilson and Everest, 1934', Bispen: il1.,E face, & Kongen, 73 63 70269 Bisson brothers: their mountain pho- 'A Tibetan name for Everest', 70 304 tography,62 157 'A word for Whymper: a reply to Biwi Giri: 1st asc., 64 88 Sir Arnold Lunn', 71 I I I B 7

Blakeney, T. S.: Blanc Mt.: 'The Alpine Club archives and their Peuterey ridge: ases., 59 402,60373, uses', 71 285 6665,7397 'The ascent of Chomolhari', 72 304 3rd complete ase., 66 261 notes: C. E. Engel's History of Freney: 1st ase. by Central Pillar of, Mountaineering, 5999 66372,67 113 G. E. Marindin, 59 214 attempts & fatal storm on, 67112 an unrecorded expedition of 1st ase. by route to right of North Mummery's, 59 216 Pillar of, 67 152 early descents of the Schalligrat, 1st winter asc. by Central Pillar of, 59217 72322 Lord Fisher and the Alps, 59217 lnnominata ridge: 1st winter ase., Sherlock Holmes and the Theodule 60 171 Pass, 59 345 attempt, 66 68 the first ascent of Elbruz., 59460 Brouillard: new variation on ridge, Alpine chronicles, 59465 64, 269 Coolidge and Mummery, 61211 date of Harris-van Noorden ase., Hadow's boots, 63 124 69140 Dr F. A. Cook and Mt McKinley, 1st ase. by Right-hand Pillar of, 63251 7°315,7168,3°4 Whymper and the Taugwalders, various ascs., 67 221,225 6594 M. Barry's, 59 19 a tour Centenary, 68 134 E. J. Clark's, 59 264 a disputed ascent, 68 139 from Aig. de Bionnassay,61 71 honorary members, 68 295 Erasmus GaIton's, 61 102 S.A.C. Centenary, 69 138 1st by a dog, 61 393 Winthrop Young papers, 69 138 by a member of the College of failed A.C., 69 139 Cardinals, 64 243 Alpine chronicles, 69 140 by a blind man, 65 97 early proposals to climb Everest, new information re 1st ase., 67 230 69143 in the massif of, 67 338, 68 125, Nilkanta again, 69 145 292,69277 Sir Winston Churchill, 70 134, 1st by an English woman, 72134 322 an American, 72 327 Whymper and Southend, 70 135 double tr., 60 373 South Georgia, 70 327 around, in four days, 66 78 and the monsoon, biographical footnotes to early ases., 70328 66316 Whymper and the Royal Society, physiological expedition to, 66 161 71308 notes on illustrations of ascs. of, 68 215 Mont Blanc: first ascent by an early refs. in America, 69 285, 70 324, English woman, 72 134 71309 Bennen or Benet, 72 133 prints of de Saussure's ase., 69142 Frank Smythe and Graham Brown, geological map of massif, 70 352 72135 ill., N slopes from Aig. du Midi, 62 Tilman and Mischief, 72 144 44-5 G. L. Mallory, 73 265 & Aigs. of Chamonix from the Dru, Blanc, Mt: Brenva route: ases., 63 246, 6268 6681 the Gamba amphitheatre, 62 84 Sentinelle Rouge: ascs., 61 75, 66151 Brenva face from Col de la Fourche, attempt, 59 325 6284-5 1st winter asc., 66 385 from Mt Blanc du Tacul, 66 78-9 Route Major: ascs., 67153,7397 from Col de la Seigne, 66 78-9 1st winter ase., 60171 from S, 66 268 Via delia Pera: winter attempt, 61547 Freney face from Pta Gugliermina, ase., 6671 67 lI8 1st winter asc., 70 326 Central Pillar of, 67 118-9 8 B

Blanc, Pierre: memories of, 70 222 Bourdillon, T. D.: 'Everest, 1953. The obit·,7r. 146 closed circuit oxygen apparatus', Blanc de Seilon, Mt: by N face, 65 89 59238 Blanc du Taeul, Mt: 'The oxygen apparatus in action', by Gervasutti Couloir, 60 374 59247 1st British ase., 73 10 note: the Alpine Climbing Group, 1st ase., 7r. 131 6r. 212 other ases., 73 97 obit. & port., 6r. 357, 521 Blanca, Cordillera: ases. in, 60 176, 383, Bourrit, M. T.: his life & climbs, 68 206 65220,6988 Bove, Mt (Tierra del Fuego): ase., 68 Blanche, Dent.: by W face, 67 215 233 1st winter ase. by N ridge, 68 299 Bovet, Abbe: his dog's adventure, 70 2nd ase. by N face, 7r. 310 223 a cross on, 72 135 Bovet, Beeea: 1st recorded ase. from E, Blanco, Nevado: ase., 69 51 73254 Blasenliieke (W): 1st tourist cr., 59457 Bowden, F. P.: death, 73 295 Blind mountaineers: ases. by, 65 97, 70 Bowdler, Thomas: Alpine journey, 134 1779,62 137 Blodig, K.: ninety-fifth birthday, Bowen, H. C.: obit., 6r. 523 60170 Bowman, W. E.: his book: The Ascent obit. & port., 6r. 524 of Rum Doodle, 6r. 422 Blow, J. E.: death, 59 214 Bozman, E. F.: obit., 73 295 Blumental: port., 59441 Bradley, M. G.: obit., 68 164, 344 Bobbie Burns group: ases. in, 65 25 Braham, T. H.: 'The Cambridge Bohren, Gottfried: death, 68 300 University expedition to Spiti, Bois de Chesne, A.: obit., 59 332 1955', 6r. 296 Boktoh: attempt, 59 318 'Swat and Indus Kohistan', 68 251 ill., 59 318 Brahma I: attempt, 7r. 137 Bolivar, Pieo: asc., 67 284 Brailsford, S.: his book: (with E. A. Bolts: as used in Australia, 72 149 Wrangham) Selected Climbs in the Bona, Mt: 3rd asc., 6r. 202 Dauphine Alps and Vercors, 73 288 4th asc., 72 332 Braldu Brakk: ase., 64 179 ases. in the area, 73 270 Brasher, C. W.: his book: (with Sir J. Bonaeossa, A.: 'Reminiscences', 70 218 Hunt) The Red Snows, 65114 Bonatti, W.: Bregaglia: ases. in, 1962,67340 his books: Ames Montagnes, 68 153 , Lauterbrunnen: from Klein On the Heights, 70 172 Breithorn, 66 87 Bonington, C. J. S.: 'The North faces Breithorn (Swat): ase., 70 210 of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo', 65 Breithorn (Zermatt): by Younggrat, 6r. 182 54,70 297 'The modern rappel; a study in asc., 6r. 83 sanity', 66 367 by Klein Triftje, 63 87, 243 'The Central Pillar of Frllney', 67 II I by TriftjigrOlt, 63 92 'Notes on equipment and technique', Brenta Alta: ases., 69133 67 332, 69 271 Brenta, Campanile Basso di: asc., 66 304 'The Central Tower of Paine', 68 179 Brenta, Crozzon di: asc., 67 275 his book: I Chose to Climb, 72 162 by N face, 69 133 Books: some early mountaineering, 62 ill., 67 276 43,48,66 Brenva, Aig. de 101: by E face, 60 167, Bouleau Mountain: note on, 6r. 215 6r. 74 Bouquetins, Dents des: 2nd complete BrettelI, F. G.: obit., 70 364 tr., 66 380 British Isles notes: 6r. 403, 552, 65101, Bourdillon, J. : her book: Visit to the 67 172,70146, 7r. 154,72 151 Sherpas, 6r. 423 See also p 54 below Bourdillon, R. B.: 'Everest, 1953. The Broad Peak: attempt, 60 176 closed circuit oxygen apparatus', 1st asc., 63 131 59238 Broekedon, W.: note on, 73 :\59 B 9

Brocklebank, T. A.: Buhl, H.: his books: 8000 Driiber Und note: Rapiu La, 64 242 Drunter, 60 185 stoves, 68 135 Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage, 61 572 Brooke, F. R.: 'Oberlandjourney, 1956', death, 62 182 61334 Bullard, F. M.: his book: Volcanoes in 'The ascent of Rakaposhi', 63 159 History, in Theory, in Eruption, note: Kilimanjaro, 68 301 68149 Brooks range (Alaska): ascs. in, 70 332 Bullock, G. H.: 'Diary of the Everest Brouillard, Pillars of: expedition, 1921',67130,291 ill., from just below Col du Freney, obit., 61 361 7162-3 Bullock, H. S.: obit., 68 166, 345 Right-hand Pillar (routes), 71 305 Buni Zorn district: ascs. in, 71 136 Broun, A. F.: obit., 59 83 Bunnell, F. J.: his book: Rock Climbing Brown, F. A. Y.: biographical note, Guide to Hong Kong, 65119 70202 Burgener, Alexander: port., Brown, H. M.: 'The High Atlas in 70 14-15 winter', 71 43 Burke, M.: 'The good guys v. the 'Return to the Atlas', 71275 mountain', 73 43 Brown, J.: his book: The Hard Years, Burkett, Mt (Coast Range): attempts, 73 122 71298 Brown, T. Graham: 'Everest', 59 103 Burley, M.: 'Climbing in the Antarctic', 'The Wetterhorner', 59179 67226 his books: (with G. R. de Beer) The Burman, J.: his book: A Peak to climb: First Ascent of Mont Blanc, 62 the Story of South African 184 Mountaineering, 72 169 La Prima Ascensione del Monte Burney, Mt (Patagonia): attempt to Bianco, 66 407 reach, 67 267 Lord Tangley's appreciation, 71 51 journey round, 68 230 bequests, 71 308 Busk, D. L.: 'Elizabeth Peak, Ruwen- & Frank Smythe, 72 135 zori', 59 268 port., 62 84-5 'Further notes on the Ruwenzori', 59 obit. & port., 71 191 407,60105 Browne, B. : his book: The Conquest of 'Kilimanjaro', 60 96 Mount McKinley, 61415 'The Simien and Batu ranges in Brujo, EI (Andes): 1st asc., 6557 Ethiopia', 61 344 Bruneggjoch: 1st cr., 61548 'A new map of the Ruwenzori Peaks', Brussels, Mt: 4th asc., 70 333 6460 Bruyere, arete de la: tr., 64 263 'The first rappel: a study in vanity', asc., 67 159 66365 Bryant, L. V.: his book : New Zealanders 'The Sierra Nevada de Merida', 67 and Everest, 59 354 280 obit., 63 229 'Venezuelan notes', 68 317 port., 60 402 'A map of the Andes of Venezuela', Bryce, Mt: history of, 72 142 69 122 Buckland, M t (Tierra del Fuego): 1st 'Two faces', 72 232 asc., 71 313 notes: Ronald Ladkin, 60 382 Bugaboos: ascs. in, 6519,66140,71318, Ruwenzori, 61 214, 65 98 73 251, 274 a map of the Central Elburz, ill., from N, 65 22 63207 granite peaks of the group from Ethiopia, 69 286 Brenta Spire, 73 245 his book: The Fountain of the Sun, Bugaboo Spire: 2nd asc. by E ridge, 63141 6519 Busk, Miss M.: death, 73 107 by E face, 66 140 Busazza: by W face, 68 20 ill., E face, 66 145 by S face, 68 226 Buhl, H.: 'The ascent of Nanga Parbat', Byam-Grounds, J.: note: a cross on 59384 the Dent Blanche, 72 135 10 C

Byne, E. : note: climbs in the Peak Carrell, G. N.: District, 65 104, 67 176 'The Alpine Club Photographic his book: (with G. Sutton) High Exhibition, 1955',61118 Peak,72 167 'Centenary Exhibition', 63 77 obit., 73 266 'The Alpine Club Photographic Exhibition, 1961',67181 CACACCAPAC:tr., 66151 Carslake, W. B.: obit., 65 135 Caeca Aca, Nevado: ill., NW face, 6449 Carstensz massif: ascs. in, 68 84 Cake, the (S Georgia): asc., 61 469 ill., 68 86-7 Calanques: climbs in the, 6995 Carter, A. C.: 'A winter expedition to Caldwell, ].: his book: The Cross-country the Spanish Sierra Nevada', 68 61 Ski Book, 7°352 Cascade, Mur de la: by Voie Chandelier, Calino, Pizzo: 1st asc. by SE ridge, 66 155 61542 Calvo gl.: ill., 61 276-7 Cascade Range: ascs. in, 68 321, 70 333 Calzada group (Andes): ascs. in, 68 220 Cashan Oeste: 1st asc., 73118 Camel (Alaska): asc., 72 115 Casiri Este: asc. & accident, 72 297 Campbell, P. A.: Kenya and Castor: asc., 6185 Tanganyika notes, 68 325 Cathedral Peak: ill., with Lapworth Canada: climbing in Quebec Province, Peak from Sermitsia g!., 68 257 64129 Cathedral Spires (Alaska): ascs. in, 72 ascs. in, 65 252 33° celebration of centenary of Confeder- Catinaccio: ascs., 69134 ation, 72 142 Caucasus: A. W. Moore's diary of 1874 see also p 56 below expedition, 60 305, 61 123 Can-can, Nevado: asc. 70 242 ascs. in, 63 117, 246, 64 130, 67 54, 152 Canonigo: 1st asc., 71152 see also p 54 below Canti, E.: port., 59 299 Caukwell, R. A.: Kenya and Uganda Capitan, El: 1st asc. by Muir Wall, notes, 69 304 71 318 Kenya and Tanzania notes, 71 321, ill., 71 220 72336 Capucin, Grand: N face: 1st asc., 60 373 Cavales, Pic Nord des: by W ridge, E face: 9th asc., 60 373 60374 solo asc., 64 268 Cawood, A. H.: port., 7°14-15 other ascs., 60 373, 61 542,63246, Cayambe: 6th asc., 70123 64261,66 152,6790,69 132 Cayesh, Nevado: 1st asc., 66164, 199 S face: 1st asc., 61542 ill., from S, 66 204 Capucin du Requin, Petit: by NW face, W face (route), 66 204-5 63120 from slopes of Condor, 66 206 Carabaya, Cordillera de: ascs. in, 72 124, Ccapana: 1st asc., 64 39 73253 Ccollapachinachuman: ascs., 69 48 Cardinal, Ie: 1st asc. by W face, 70 314 Centenaries: in 1954,59344 Caribou Mts: ascs. in, 68 321 in 1955,60 173 Carol, Pico: asc., 66 151 in 1956,61211,391 Carr, ]. D.: death, 63 122 alpine equipment, 69 241 Carr, H. R. C.: 'Some notes on Swiss Central Peak (Swat Kohistan): attempt, prints and illustrations in accounts 68259 of ascents of Mont Blanc (to 1853)', asc., 70 208 68212 Chabod, R.: his book: The Centenary of the note: an eighteenth-century chamois Italian Alpine Club, 70 161 hunter, 67 16o Chachacomani: attempt, 68 222 Carr-Saunders, A. M.: 'The Club's Chacraraju: 1st asc., 61 543 pictures', 63 96 1st asc. of peak north of, 69 92 note: Alpine pictures, 64 129 2nd asc., 70 124, 144 obit., 72 184 ill., lower peak from SE ridge, 60 72 Carrell, G. N.: 'The Alpine Club from summit of Pisco, 60 73 Photographic Exhibition, 1953', from Huandoy, 60 82 59444 Chacraraju East: 1st asc., 68 124 C II

Chainapuerto: attempt, 70 240 Chilean notes: 65 241, 68 314, 70141 Chair Ladder (Cornwall): escape from Chimborazo: British ascs., 64 241, 65 98 drowning at, 73 216 : and the Tibetan frontier claims, Challis, D. H.: 'Cordillera Real, 1966', 65238 77,292 Chinchey, Nevado: asc., 65 220 Chamlang: 1st asc., 67 351 Chitral: German 1965 expedition to, Chamonix: early ascs. from, 67, 12 71215 guide system, 67,42 recce into NE, 73 55 tr. of the Aigs., 63 244, 66 375, 67 38 Chittan Wangdi: port., 67 299 ascs. in the Aigs. of, 73 98 Chocetacarpo: 2nd asc., 69 45 Chane Kuh: ascs., 61 63-4 Chogolisa: 1st asc., 64134, 168 Chanez, -: port., 59 299 ill., 64 169 : iII., from W ridge of Everest, Chogo Lungma gI.: recce, 65 41 6C)14-15 Chomolhari: 1st asc., 77,304 Chapman, K. A.: mountaineering career, ill., 67 134-5 61352 Chomo-Lanzo: 1st asc., 60 384 Chapiitschin, Fuorcla dal: I st recorded iII., from slopes of 21,500 ft peak, cr., 63 48 6023°-1 Chardonnet, Aig. du: by Forbes arete, from S of Kama Chii, 67 298 63245 Cho 6yu: 1952 expedition, 59 9 by N face, 66 152 1st asc., 60175,239 ill., 67,44-5 attempt & accident, 65 90 Charim Kokero (Himalaya): asc., 73 250 3rd asc., 69 289 Charmoz, Aig. des Grands: by NW ill., from above , 59 12 ridge, 59 207 & Gyachung Kang, 5914 by Republique ridge, 60 371 from Base Camp, 60 242 by Mer de Glace face, 67 217 the summit, 60 247 Charmoz, Petits: by NW buttress, 66 152 Chopicalqui: 1st asc. from Dltatal, 67166 Chaukamba: 2nd asc., 65 90 Cho Polu: asc., 60 237 Chaytor, H. J.: death, 60169 Cho Rapzang: ill., from the Nangpa La, Chearoco, Nevado: asc., 68 222 5915 ill., 68 224-5 Chorley, R. R. E.: 'Climbs at Zermatt, Cheng, Chou: 'The ascent of Shisha Chamonix and Courmayeur', 59 23 Pangma', 69 211 'To the Monk's Head on Rakaposhi', Chephren, Mt (Rockies): 1st asc. by 6048 E face, 71 318 Chouinard, Y.: 'Modern Yosemite climb- ChevalIey, G.: his book: (with R. ing', 71 219 Dittert and R. Lambert) Avant- Christaturm: by E face direct, 70 248 Premieres a ['Everest, 59 352 Christoffel, D.: his book: La Montagne Chiantar Central Peak: 1st asc., 73 209 dans [a Peinture, 69157 Chiantar gI. (Hindu Kush): expedition Chubb, H. E.: obit., 65138 to region of, 73 207 Chucullani: asc., 70 243 nameless peaks ascended from, 73 210, Chugach Range: ascs. in, 67 357, 73 271 213 Chugan Bashi: attempt, 67 55 ill., peaks of, 73 212-13 ChuglIaraju: 1st asc., 67166 Chiantar, Little: 1st asc., 73 209 Chukhung Peak: asc., 59 110,135 Chichibu, Prince: correspondence re, Chumik gI.: exploration of, 66 149 77, 194 Churchill, Mt (Alaska): 2nd asc., 77,332 death, 59 86 Churchill, Sir Winston: mountaineering Chichiccapac: ascs. 65 85, 86 achievements, 70 134, 322 Chikar Zorn: 1st asc., 77, 122,23° mountains named after, 71 149 Chilean Cordillera Central: description Chwascinski, B.: 'The Polish expedition of, 64 228 to the Hindu Kush, 1960',66235 bibliography, 64 235 'The exploration of the Hindu Kush', maps, 64236 71 199 climbs in, 6553 note: Polish mountaineering clubs, new refuge in, 65 242 67 161 2 u C

Cia e Hendevade (Turkey): by N face, Clough, I. S.: 72 119 'Eigerwand, 1962',6829 Ciarforon: by N face, 72 319 'Gaurisankar, 1964',7096 Cilo Mts (Turkey): ascs. in, 70 313, 'The first ascent of the Fortress and 72 129 future prospects in the Cordillera ill., Resko from Maunsell's Peak, del Paine', 73 143 70285 Clubs: Suppa-Durak,71 158-9 Alpine Ski: 50th anniversary, 63 256 Cipreses valley (Chile): ascs. from, 65 241 note on, 73 107 Citlaltepetl: asc., 70 55 Austrian Alpine: 80th birthday, 64 121 ill., 70 54-5 & O.A.V., 64 242 City of London, the: and exploration, Austrian Alpine Verein: centenary, 7°323 67344 Civetta, Mte: NW face: Canadian Alpine: 50th anniversary, Solleder route: asc. 68 21, 226 61388 1St winter asc. 68 299, centenary expedition, 73 18,273 Philipp-Flamm route: asc., 68 227 Finnish Alpine: formation, 68 135 Clark, E. J.: asc. of Mt Blanc, 59 264 French Alpine: international meet, date of death, 68 299 7236 Clark, L.: his book: The Marching Wind, membership, 73 256 61 221 Italian Alpine: centenary, 68 297, Clark, R. W.: 69 136 his books: The Victorian Mountaineers, Ladies Alpine: 50th anniversary, 61 548 59359 Mountain Club of South Africa: Six Great Mountaineers, 61 569 75th anniversary, 72 133 A Picture History of Mountaineering, New Zealand Alpine: Himalayan 61577 dinner, 61 213 An Eccentric in the Alps, 64 271 75th anniversary, 71 142,319 (with E. C. Pyatt) Mountaineering Norske Tindeklub; 50th anniversary, in Britain, 64 275 63262 The Day the Rope Broke, 70 159 60th anniversary, 73 106 Clark, S. G. McH.: 'Two on the Polish mountaineering, 67161 Peuterey', 61 472 Swiss Alpine: fete centrale, 64 121 his book: The Puma's Claw, 64146 centenary, 68 127,69 136 Clarke, L. W.: obit., 61526 election of President, 70 134, 73 106 Clarke, M. N.: note: the mountaineer membership, 70 135, 73 106 and the law, 61 209 Swiss Women's Alpine: 50th anni- Cleare, J.: 'An introduction to Swanage', versary, 73 255 66 299 Tourist Klub Skala: 40th anniversary, 'Climbing assignments', 72 243 67 160 note: expedition film work on high Turkish Alpine: reactivated, 72 324 mountains, 73 40 Coast Range: ascs. in, 68 320 his book: (with T. Smythe) Rock proposed expedition to, 70 139 Climbers in Action in Snowdonia, expedition to, 71 296 71 335 correspondence re expeditions to, Cliff, B.: 'The North-east Pillar of 72195 Nelion', 69 259 Coaz, J.: his climbs, 68 210 Climbing: technique of artificial, 60 37, Cochran, N. J.: death, 64 247 in Yosemite, 71 219 obit., 65 139 some reflections on modem, 72 15 Cochrane, Torre Norte del (Andes): Clocher de Planreuse, Petit: an umbrella 1St asc., 72 147 on, 65 96 Cocuy, Andes of: geographical features, Clogwyn du'r Arddu: ill., 62 92 6333 Cloud formation: a strange, 69 291 history of mountaineering in, 63 36 Clough, I. S.: 'The season of plenty', expedition to, 63 38 6730 bibliography, 63 42 'The Wall of Walls', 68 20 ascs. in, 65 220 C 13

Coddington, E.: obit., 72 355 Coolidge, W. A. B.: Lunn's memories Cole, J.: 'West Nepal expedition, 1964', of, 60 437 7°254 & Mummery, 61211 Colgrove, J. B.: port., 70 14-15 & the Aig. Verte, 67 158 Colledge, R. L. B.: 'The Brioschi route Cooper, Mt (Selkirks): 1st asc., 68 321 on the Macugnaga face of Nordend', Cooperation, Peak (Pamirs): 1st asc., 59203 6896 'Three climbs from Chamonix', 64 ill., 68 94-5 200 Copapamparaju: 1st asc., 69125 Collomb, R. G.: Copeland, F. S., note: a Slovene his books: A Dictionary of Moun- anniversary, 67 16o taineering, 64 145 Coraie, Forcella delle: cr., 61 206 (with P. Crew) Selected Climbs in Corlett, W. E.: obit., 6S 229 the Mont Blanc Range, vols. I Cornice Peak (Himalaya): asc., 64178 & II, 72 347 Cornier, Grand: by S face & SW ridge, (with J. O. Talbot) Bernina Alps, 63 121 73285 1st winter asc. by NE face, 72322 Selected Climbs in the Cornish, C. C.: obit., 70 365 (vols. I & 11),73286 Corno di Campo: asc., 70 220 Maritime Alps: Vesubie Basin and Cortaderas group (Chile): 1st asc. of Argentera, 73 290 unnamed rock peak in, 65 241 Colombia: expeditions to the Andes of, Cotopaxi: note re 1st asc., 68 303 62 179, 63 38, 133,64244 Couloir Peak: by E wall, 61381 : Rockies of, 71 26 Courmayeur: in 1913, S9 299 bibliography, 71 35 Courtauld, A.: obit., 64 279 Communism, Peak of: asc., 68 244 Courtauld, S. L.: obit., 73 135 ill., from Garmo gl., 68 94 Courtes, Les: tr., 59 324 from upper basin of Vavilova gl., by Aig. Qui Remue buttress, 61 203 6894-5 Couzy, J.: death, 64127 S face, 68 248--9 Coverley-Price, V.: his book: An Artist Concavo, El.: ill., from N, 63 39 among Mountains, 61 578 Concha, La: asc., 67 285 poem: Alpine Centenary, 63 95 Condor: ascs., 66 204 Cox, A. D. M.: 'Mists on Mont Blanc', Conner, Mt (Australia): asc., 67 320 617° ill., 67 315 'The Matterhorn Centenary', 707 Conrad, Mt (Bugaboos): by N ridge, becomes Editor of Alpine Journal, 67 6525 154 Consolation Peak (Swat Kohistan): asc., relinquishes Editorship of Alpine 68261 Journal, 72320 Controversies, Alpine: centenary survey Crampons: in a 15th-century campaign, of, 62 144 73257 Tyndall & Stephen, 62 47 Crawford, C. G.: note: Minya Konka, Conway, Lord: & Illimani, 60 172 63 130 Cook, Dr F. A.: & Mt McKinley, 63 251 obit., 64 280 Cook, Mt: accident, 60 382, 65 250, Crawford, L. : ascent of Thamserku, 70 93 69300 Creag Meaghaidh: note on, 6S 190 by new routes, 61 330, 72 334 Crete: hut in the White Mountains, 1st asc. by E face, 67 165 63258 avalanche on, 68 136 mountains of, 6S 208 1st asc. by S face, 68 323 ill.,65212-13 history, 69 262 Crew, P.: 'Vertigo, 1962',68 225 1st by Japanese & other ascs., 70 334, 'The British Cerro Torre expedition, 72260 1967-8',73186 ill., air view of E face, 69196-7 his books: (with H. I. Banner) W (Hooker) face, 69 196--7 Clogwyn d'ur Arddu, 68 332 SE (Caroline) face, 69 197 Selected Climbs in the Dolomites, Cooke, H. E.: obit., 6S 261 68333 14 D

Crew, P.: his books: Dangar, D. F. 0.: Llanberis South, 71 336 'Eckenstein: the man and the climber', (with R. G. Collomb) Selected 6571 Climbs in the Mont Blanc Range, 'John Thorn: mountaineer', 65199 vols. I & II, 72 347 'Jakob Anderegg', 66 89 Dents du Midi, 72 348 'The Parkers and the Matterhorn', Bregaglia West, 72 348 68 285 Criminal: a climbing, 66 388 'Old Peter Taugwalder, 1820-88', Cristobal Colon (Colombia): by S face, 7026 62179 'The Matterhorn: a diary of events Crocodile, Dent du: by E ridge, 59 207, after the disaster of 1865', 70 199 60373 'A word for Whymper: a reply to Croll, W. G.: 'Mount Cook', 69 262 Sir Arnold Lunn', 71 III Crombie, T.: Andean notes, 60 387, 67 'The ascent of Chomolhari', 72 304 353 'The highest mountains, 1962-1967', notes: the Argentine Dhaulagiri 73241 expedition, 1954,60383 notes: British travellers in the Ojos del Salado, 61 397 Dauphine, 59 89 Patagonia, 61 398 Mont Pelvoux, 59 464 Arthur B. Emmons, 68 129 The first ascent of Piz Palii, 61 545 Croux, Aig.: by SE face, 60 165 Bruneggjoch, 61 548 Croux, Evaristo: obit., 62182 d' Angeville, Henriette: interview with, Crozet Islands: climbs in, 66 52 65232 Cuchillo, Nevado: 1st asc., 6442 Dansketinden (Staunings Alps): 2nd Cuernos, Principal (Patagonia): 1st asc., asc., 70 126 73 153 Daplipandigo: asc., 6158 Culverwell, E. R.: obit., 63 103 Darban Zorn: 1St asc., 71 136 Cunatincota Chico: 1st asc., 67170 Darbyshire, C. : Peruvian notes, 70 144 Cunatincota, Nevado (Bolivia): ill., Darrah-e-Abi (Hindu Kush): from SW, 67171 expedition to, 72 65 Cust, A.: port., 70 14-15 Darrah-i-Parshui (Hindu Kush): notes Cutforth, A. E.: obit., 64 98 on & ascs. from 72 308 Czartoryski, P.: 'Polish mountain- ill., 72 306-7 eering', 72 103 Darrah-i-Shahran area: 1st ascs. in, 739° DACHL (Gesiiuse): 1st asc. by N face, Darwa Top (Himalaya): asc., 69 203 diagonal crack, 64 266 Darwin, Mt (Tierra del Fuego): ases., Dachstein: by S wall in winter, 66 284 67264 ill., S face (Steiner route), 66 284 ill., 67 262 Dan Beard, Mt (Alaska): 1St asc., Darwin Range: expedition to 67 259 68264 Daunt, H. E.: death, 59 86 ill., from NW fork of Ruth gl. (route), Dauphine: British travellers in the, 68256-'] 5989 Dang, H.: 'Mount Everest, 1962',68 I ascs. in, 64263, 67 341 Dangar, D. F. 0.: Davidson, M.: her book: (with R. 'Peter Egger of Grindelwald', 59 53 Hewitt) The Mountains of New 'The Fiihrerbuch of Young Peter Zealand, 60 425 Taugwalder', 59 436 Davidson, Sir Edward: incident at the 'The first ascent of the Trifthorn', Schonbiihl hut, 70 219 61348 Davies, A.: 'Women's Overland Hima- 'The first ascent of the Matterhorn', layan expedition, 1958',6483 61493 Davies, L. W.: 'Footsteps in the snow', 'The rise of modern mountaineering, 61340 1854-65',6216 Davy, Sir Humphry: at Chamonix, 'The highest mountains', 62 165 69 284 'Early expeditions in the Pontresina Deacock, A.: her book : No Purdah in district', 63 44 Padam, 65 258 D 15

Deacock, W. M. M.: 'Spirit of the de Saussure, H. B.: his climbs, 68 208 Storm', 70 273 Desio, A.: 'The 1954 Italian expedition Australian notes, 70 337, 72 148 to the Karakorum and the conquest de Agostini, A.: death, 66 164 of K 2', 60 3 Dean, D.: 'Oscar Eckenstein, 1859- his book: La Conquista del K 2, 1921',6562 Seconda Cima del Mondo, 60419 de Beer, G. R.: 'William Benson Earle's de Trafford, E. A.: obit., 65 262 visit to Chamonix in 1767',5937 Devereux, Peak (Wokkpash): 1st asc., 'Thomas Bowdler, Alpine pioneer', 6649 62 137 Devies, L.: 'New information about the first his books: (with L Terray) Joies de la ascent of Mont Blanc', 67 230 Montagne, 70 346 notes: Hannibal's route across the (with P. Henry) La Chafne du Alps, 6:1:215 Mont Blanc (III), 72 348 Anton Malczewski, 6:1:394 Devil's Thumb (Greenland): 2nd ase., Sir Humphry Davy at Chamonix, 68 123 69 284 ill., 68 110-II Alpes Maritimes, 7:1:143 Devistan I: 1st asc., 66 390 his books: (with T. Graham Brown) de Wesselow, O. L. V. S.: obit., 64 296 The First Ascent of Mont Blanc, Dharmsura: ill., & Papsura, 73156-7 62 184 Dhaula Dhar & Pir Panjal ranges: ill., La Prima Ascensione del Monte peaks of, from Chandra Khanni Pass, Bianco, 66 407 73244 de Booy, T.: his book: (with C. G. Dhaulagiri: Egeler) The Untrodden Andes, 60 423 attempts: Swiss 1953, 59 302 Deborah, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc., 59463, Argentine, 1954, 59462,60383 6035 Swiss, 1958,63261 ill., 60 32-3 Austrian, 1959,64 244, 65 II de Briiyn, I.: 'Courmayeur in 1913', 1st asc., 65 246 59299,458 ill., from S, 59 302 death, 59 343 from N, 59 302-3 de Chatellus, A.: his book: Alpiniste, N face, 65 14, 17 est-ce-Toi ?', 59 361 NE ridge from Camp II, 65 14-15 de Graaff-Hunter, J.: death, 72 134 upper part of, 65 16 de Grunne, F.: obit., 66 387 Dhaulagiri district: exploration in, 60248 Delago, H.: death, 68132 Dhaulagiri Himal: expedition to, 68 188 de la Motte, E. S. G.: obit., 63 112 topography of, 73 II 3 de Lavis-Trafford, M. A. : his book: Le ill., from N, 60 250 Col Alpin franchi par Hannibal- II & IV from E, 60 254 Son Identification topographique, IV from W, 68 192-3, 7:1:78-9 64 277 Dhaulagiri IV: attempts, 68 193, 196, note on, 67 370 7:1: 79 Delez, P. L.: death, 59459 Diable, Aigs. du: tr., 6:1:540,64264 de Luc, J. A.: note on, 63125 Dias, J.: his book: The Everest life & climbs, 68 206 Adventure: Story of the Second Indian de Luca, G.: 'The Matterhorn: an Expedition, 7:1:331 impression from Italy', 70 43 Dibibokri Pyramid: ill., 6:1:462-3, 464 de Lusy, M.: obit., 60151 Dibona, Aig.: ascs., 60 370 Demavend: by E ridge, 6:1:64, 66-'] 1st asc. by S face, diedre Anglais, asc., 66 139 7396 Demirkazik (Taurus): asc., 70127 Diemberger, K.: 'The North face of the Denman, E.: his book: Alone to Everest, Eiger', 64 187 59480 'My finest route in the Alps', 66 261 DeoTibba: 'Some climbs from the Upper ase.,66 390, 68 52 Tirich glacier', 7:1:61 5th, 67 330 d'Ifni, Lac (Atlas): visit to, 71 48 Densham, G. L.: obit., 69318 Dikte, Mt (Crete): asc., 65 212 16 D

Dimple (S Georgia): 1Stasc., 61 466 Drakensberg: highest summit in, 60 Diran: attempt, 65 90 178 Dir Gol: ascs. from, 72122 Driver-Holloway, J. S.: obit., 61 364 Dirg Zorn (Hindu Kush): asc., 73 250 Droites, Les: N face: 1Stdirect asc., Discovery, Mt (Antarctica): 1Stasc., 61207 64132 tr., 64 264 Disgrazia, Mte delia: 1Stasc., 63 48 1st winter asc. by NW spur of N face, asc., 64 262 68299 by NNE ridge, 68 125, 69 279 Dru, Aig. du Petit: Disteghil Sar: attempt, 63 132,64245 W face: 1Stasc., 65 245, 66 I ascs.: 3rd, 60 25, 166 ill., 66 6-7 1St,60 166 Dittert, R.: his book: (with G. 2nd, 60 166 Chevalley and R. Lambert) Avant- 4th, 60 374 Premieres a I'Everest, 59 352 other, 61 542, 63 246 di Vallepiana, U.: 'Photographic 1Stwinter, 62 179 souvenirs of ski-mountaineering', 1Stdirect, 70 317, 71 103 59201 Pilier Bonatti: Dividal, the (Norway): note on, 61 382 ascs.: 1St,60 374 Dixon, Mt (New Zealand): attempt, 2nd, 61 542 72258 3rd,61542 Dixon, W. S.: obit., 69 169 other, 63 246, 6425, 68 228 Docharty, W. M.: 1Stwinter, 66385 his books: A Selection of some 900 accidents, 64 248, 66 376, 67 209 British and Irish Mountain Tops, ill., W face, 60 3 61423 from La Flegere, 62 104 supplement to, 69 314 Drungso Ri (Bhutan): asc., 72 269 Doepfner, Cardinal: ascends Mt Blanc, ill., 72 259 64243 Drusenfluh: narrow escape on, 66 62 Dogs: climbing achievements of, 60 378, Duglosz, J.: death, 68 132 61210,393,70223 Dummett, G. A.: 'African holiday', Doig, D.: his book: (with E. Hillary) 64206 High in the Thin Cold Air, 68 151 Dunsheath, J.: Dolent, Mt: tr., 67 220 her books: (with others) Mountaim Dolomieu, Marquis de: memorial to, and Memsahibs, 63149 64124 Guest of the Soviets, 64 278 Dolomites: ascs. in, 64 267,66157,374, Dych Tau: 67 340, 68 125, 293, 69 279, 73 100 E peak: 1Stasc., by right S buttress, Dom: asc., 65 218 63247,6466 double anniversary on, 73 205 by left-hand S buttress, 64 259 Domeyko, I.: his ascs. in the Andes, ill., 64 68 73109 Dyhrenfurth, G. 0.: 'Narrow escapes', Don Bosco, Cerro (Patagonia): 1st asc., 66 58 67257 'Some hints for Himalayan aspirants', Donguz-Orun: by N face, 67152 6836 Donkin, B.: obit. & port., 70183 notes: Malubiting, 67167 Donkin, S. B.: obit. & port., 59 73 Gangapurna, 69 288 Donkin, W. F.: his Alpine photography, Kondus-Kaberi,72 140 62159 Ngojumba Ri II, 72 141 Douglas, Lord F.: expeditions in 1864, Ngojumba Ri, 73 115 73255 his books: Das Buch vom Nanga Douglas-Hamilton, Lord M.: obit., Pa1bat,60 181 70366 To the Third Pole, 60 421 Dowbiggin, H. L.: obit., 71345 Der dritte Pol, 66 172 Downes, R. 0.: death, 63131,180 Dyhrenfurth, N. G.: 'Americans on Downton, Rev. H.: biographical note, Everest, 1963',69 I 70202 note: Mount Everest, 67 350 EARLE,W. B.: visit to Chamonix, 59 37 Eiger: Earthquake: in , 1855,6494 N face: East African notes: 65 243, 67 361, ascs.: 13th, 63 246, 64122, 187 68 325, 69 302, 70 336, 71 321, 14th, 64267 72 336, 73 276 in 1959,6598 East Aling gl.: ill., looking up, at in 1961,66 376 Cathedral & Mitre, 67 78-<) 1st winter, 66 384 East Maiden (Alaska): asc., 72 114 in 1953,67158 Eaton, J. E. C.: obit., 64 99 total to 1961,67158 Ebnefluh: asc., 61 338 1st British, 67 338, 68 29 Eccles, Refuge: destruction of, 59 87 other British, 68 293, 69 132 Echevarria, E.: 'Further notes on the 1st solo, 69 140 Andes', 60 79 1st desc., 69 141 'The Andes of Cocuy', 63 33 1st direct, 71 256 'The Santa Marta range, Colombia', correspondence re, 72 193 63209 SE face: 2nd asc., 7°130 'The Cordillera Real', 6444 NE face: loth asc., 65222 'The Chilean Cordillera Central', recovery of victims of 1957 accident, 6488,6553 67157 'The Rockies of Colorado', 71 26 von Kuffner's ice-axe on Mittellegi- 'The South American Indian as a grat, 67 345 pioneer Alpinist', 73 8 I ill., from shoulder of Gross Fiescher- Andean notes, 67 170, 72 146 horn, 61 336-7 Chilean notes, 65 241, 68 314, 7°141 from Mettenberg, 62 157 notes: Andine 'first' ascents, 64 125 N face (route), 64 190 Lanin, 67 163 showing direct & normal routes, Pichincha, 68 302 71260 Cotopaxi, 68 303 Eiselin, M.: his book: Erfolg am unclimbed 6000 m peaks of the Dhaulagiri, 66 396 Andes, 71 149 Elbruz: Altar, 71 151 ascs.: 1st, 59460,61 155,71 312 Aconcagua, 72 143 by a centenarian, 69 141 Alpamayo, 73 109 on a motor cycle, 72137 , 73 109 E peak: 1st asc., 60 115 Eckenstein, 0.: his career, 65 62 1st by a British woman, 63 118 port., 65 70 ill., 61 123, 15°,325 Ecole Nationale: Rassemblement Elburz range: ascs. in, 61 63 International of, 64 261 note on, 61 391 Ecrins: accident, 64247,65 139 map of the Central, 63 207 Almer's leap on, 71 112 Ellesmere Island: Peary in, 59 216 Edholm, O. G.: his book: (with A. L. ascs. in 67164 Bacharach) Exploration Medicine, highest peak in, 73 108 7°347 ill., 67 164 Edith Cavell, Mt: 2ndasc. by N face, 72332 Elliott, C. A.: valedictory address, 59 231 by N face to E summit, 73 66, 92, 274 Elphinstone, Colonel: port., 59 283 Edunstwa, Pik (Pamirs): by NWan::te Emery, J. A. G.: 'The runcible cat', from Pik Spartak, 73 29 66290 1st asc., 73 29 obit. & port., 68 347 Edwards, J. I.: 'The Batura Muztagh Emi Koussi (Sahara): 1st asc., 63 131 expedition, 1959',6548 Emmons, A. B.: death, 68 129 Edwards, Menlove: death, 63 257 obit., 68 351 Egeler, C. G.: his book: (with T. de Encantados, Sierra dos: ascs. in, 62174 Booy) The Untrodden Andes, 60 423 Enclave, Col d': cr., 66 80 Egger, Peter: climbing career, 59 53 Engel, C. E.: Egger, T.: death, 64 244 her books: They came to the Hills, Eggler, A.: 'On and Mount 5998 Everest', 61 239 Mont Blanc: an Anthology, 71 173 18 F

English, H. B.: obit., 67 378 Everest, Mt: Equipment: Russian, 64 91 Indian attempt, 1962,67351,68 I Himalayan, 64 124 American ascs. & 1st tr., 68 305, 69 I notes, 66 365, 67 332, 69 271 attempt from Tibetan side, 68 305 bivouac, 67 332 ice-axe found in 1933, 68 141 Erciyas Dag: by NW face, 67 337 loth anniversary of 1st asc., 68 303, Erebus, Mt (Antarctica): 1st, 2nd & 69142 other ascs., 64 132 transport & Sherpas in 1963, 68 237 origin of name, 64 132 early proposals to climb, 69 143 5th asc., 67 347 Maurice Wilson's attempt, 70 269 height, 68 137 & the monsoon, 70 328 Erica, Punta (Andes): asc., 70 242 Indian asc., 1965,7°33°,71 I Escarra, J.: death, 61 388 in jade, 71 312 Estcourt, N. J.: 'Three climbs from roads named after members of 1953 Chamonix', 73 9 expedition, 72 362 Ethiopia: brochure by Dr H Scott, 64131 Chinese attempt, 1966,73 115 Dr Mooney's travels in, 69 286 Chinese scientific expedition to Etna, Mt: height, 69 285 ., 73 248 Etwa in Urdu (): asc., 67 83 ill., S flank of SE ridge, 594 Evans, D.: 'The Jagdula expedition, SE ridge, 59 5 1962',6865 from the SE, 59 16 Evans, J.: her book: The Conways: a from the air, 59 103 History of Three Generations, 72 345 views from summit, 59118,122, Evans, R. C.: 'The Cho Oyu expedition, 61249 1952',599 from Barun gl., 'Everest 1953. The first ascent of the 60230-1 South Peak', 59173 from Base Camp, 1922,62 frontis- his books: Eye on Everest, 61 417 piece On Climbing, 61 563 Chinese photo, 66 314, 67 311, Kangchenjunga, the Untrodden 685° Peak, 61 575 North Col from W, 67 135 Eve (Swat): asc., 70 208 N face from North Col, 67 298-9 Everest, Mt: Swiss attempt, 1952,59 I SW shoulder from Pumori, 68 14-15 1st asc., 59 103 from W Cwm. 6814-15 of SPeak, 59 173 SE ridge with summit & S summit, oxygen apparatus, 59 238, 247 6815 West Basin or West Cwm, 59 85 members of Swiss & British expedi- Hubbard Medal awarded to 1953 tions on Gross Simmelistock, expedition, 59 343 68233 congratulations from Russia, 59 366 from 20,000 ft on Pumori, 69 14 South Summit or South Peak?, 59 367 N face & summit pyramid from disappearance of Mallory & Irvine, W ridge, 69 14-15 59495 Exposure meters: compass errors due ascent challenged, 60 170 to, 64 243 height, 60 170 Eyre, D. C.: his book:John Sikander, book re Swiss expeditions, 60 192 59483 2nd asc., 61 249 expeditions in the 1920S, 62 87 FABIAN, D.: 'The Scottish-Canadian Abominable Snowman on, 65 99 Coast Range expedition, 1965',71296 Tibetan name of, 65 239, 69 144, 290, Faes, H.: obit., 73 296 7°3°4 Fairweather, Mt: 2nd asc., 63 248 Chinese asc., 1960,65247,6628, 313 Fairweather Range: 1st ascs. in, 68 320 Indian attempt, 1960,65248,66 15 Falak Sar: recce, 6744 Bullock's diary of 1921 expedition, history, 68 252 67130,291 attempt, 68 255 Chinese photograph, 67 310, 6848,359 2nd asc., 71 136,216 proposed American attempt, 67 350 ill., 71212-13,216 F 19

Fall: a record, 73 257. (But see 75 205) Fischer, W.: death, 66 162 Falso Morado (Chile): new route on Fisher, J. E.: obit., 71 190 S face, 67 170 Fisher, Lord: & the Alps, 59 217 Family first ascents: 67 157 FitzRoy, Mt: 1st asc., 59468 Fanny (Karakoram): origin of name, ill., group from Estancia Rocco, 67 238 68 138 & Aig. Poincenot, 67 238-9, 241 Fantin, M.: 'Mexican trilogy, 1963',7048 Fitzsimons, R.: his book: The Baron of 'Some notes on the history of Acon- Piccadilly, 73 28 I cagua', 71261 Fixed rope failures: note on, 73 262 his books: I quattordici '8000', 70 174 Flaig, W.: his book: Lawinen: Abenteuer Cervino I86S!I96S, 71 178 und Erfahrung, Erlebnis und Lehre, Alpinismo Italiano Extraeuropeo, 61567 73 126 Fleischbank: by SE face, 70 247 Farquhar, F. P.: his book: History of the Fleming, Mt (Baffin Island): 1st asc., Sierra Nevada, 71 175 67 101 Fawcett, E. D.: obit., 65228 Fleming, P.: his book: Bayonets to Fay, Cornelia: port., 72 274 Lhasa, 66 399, 67 209 Fearon family: & the Wetterhorn, Fletcher, F.: obit., 60151 64247 Foraker, Mt: 2nd asc., 69 297 Fedden, H. R. R.: 'Russell and the asc., 72 329 Vignemale', 65 80 ill., 72 62-3 'Climbing in Turkish Kurdistan', Forbes, D.: his book: The Heart of 71 133 Nepal, 67 370 note: Canada, 64 129 Forcella: 1st recorded asc. by NW ridge, his books: Alpine Ski Tour, 61 573 59457 The Enchanted Mountains, 67 373 Forster, D. J. V.: obit., 69 319 Fenaroli, F.: his book: Flora delle Alpi, Fortress, The (Patagonia): 1st asc., 61227 7393, 143 Ferlet, R.: 'Aconcagua, face Sud ill., showing route of 1st asc., 73 148 Premieres Batailles', 60 17 with Shield & Trident from E, his book: (with G. Poulet) Aconcagua, 73 156 South Face, 61 415 & the Sword, 73 156-7 Fermedaturm, Gross: narrow escape on, from W, 73 156-7 666o Fosson, Benjamin: death, 61 388 Fex-Scersen, Fuorcla: 1st recorded cr., Foster, W. J.: obit., 61365 6348 Foster, W. W.: obit., 60 154, 376 Fiescherhorn, Gross: asc., 61 337 Fothergill, C. F.: obit., 60400 Fiescherwand: by N buttress, 66155 Fou, Aig. du: by SW ridge, 60 371, 63 Figari, B.: his book: Montagna, 61428 245,64263 obit., 72 188 1st asc. by W face direct, 72131 Film festival: international, 64 123 by S face, 72 318, 73 II Film work on high mountains, Fowler, T. G. W.: obit., 72 356 expedition: 73 35 Fox, C. I. W.: obit., 63105 Finch, G. I.: valedictory address, 67 I Frances, Pi co (Tierra del Fuego): asc., Finch, J. R. G.: 68 236 notes: Hindu Kush, 68137 Francis, G. H.: 'Invitation to the Andes, a map of the Hindu Kush, 73 110 Part II', 60 280 Tirich Mir, 73 110 his book: Mountain Climbing, 64 140 : asc., 67 223 obit., 65 262 by NE face, 70 130 Franco, J.: 'Makalu', 6113 ill., NE face, 62 39 his books: Makalu, 61 407 Finzi, N. S.: obit., 73 296 (with M. Mora) Ski de , Firmin, A. H.: obit. & port., 60 397 67372 accident, 61 42 (with L. Terray) Bataille pour le death, 61 43 Jannu, 71 165 Firsoff, V. A.: his book: In the Hills of (with L. Terray) At Grips with Breadalbane, 59483 Jannu, 72 176 20 G

Franz Josef gl.: fall of ice from, 71 149 Galton, Erasmus: & Mt Blanc, 61102 Fraser, C.: 'How to estimate avalanche port. (silhouette), 61 104 danger', 72 87 Ganchen: attempt, 65 46 his book: The Avalanche Enigma, Ganesh (Moditse): 1st asc., 7°123,213 71325 ill., 70 236 Fraser, G. J: obit., 64 282 Ganesh Himal: 1st asc. of highest death, 65 7 summit, 61 213 Frauenberger, W.: 'The ascent of Nanga 2nd, 65 246, 66 Corrigenda Parbat', 59 371 Gangapurna: confused with Annapuma death, 63 256 III, 69 288 Frazer, R. A.: obit., 65 93, 225 1st asc., 70 312, 71 89 Freese-Pennefather, H. W. A.: obit., ill., with Pt 6700 m & Annapuma III, 72356 69288 Frenchman's Cap (Tasmania): 1st asc. from S with route of 1st asc., by S face, 70 126 7178-9 Freshfield, D. W.: 'Two Caucasian first E ridge, 71 78--<) ascents', 60 II 3 Gangchhen Ledrub: attempt & accident, 'The first attempt on the Porta da 69 125 Roseg', 60 302 attempts, 70 139 Frey, W.: 'Some notes on the Darrah-i- Gangotri I: 1st asc., 59463 Parshui (Central Afghan Hindu Gangotri I II: 1St asc., 59 462 Kush)', 72 308 Gangto Peak (Bhutan): ill., 71 26 I notes: maps of Afghanistan, 72 324 : 1st winter asc., 65 252 Hindu Kush archives, 73 I I I Gansser, A.: his book: Geology of the his book: Zwischen Munjal und , 71 326 Bashgal, 72 348 Garden, P. J.: death, 72 219 Frida, Punta di: by S face (Comici Gardner, A. W.: his book: (with P. J. route), 64 267 Roylance) New Essential First Aid, Friedli, E. : death, 72 290 73 126 Friga (Baffin Island): 1st asc., 67 104 Gardner, J. D.: note on, 61 1°7 Frison-Roche, R.: Garroo, Pik: accident, 67 342 his books: (with P. Tairraz) Mont asc., 68 97 Blanc aux Sept ValUes, 65 II5 (Hidden Peak): 1st asc., Les Montagnes de la Terre, vol. I, 63242 69308 Gasherbrum II: 1st asc., 61 396 vol. II, 70 165 Gasherbrum IV: 1st asc., 63 261, 64 155 Frost-bite: treatment of, 71 309 ill., 64 16o Fuego, Tierra del: naming of peaks in, Gasherbrum VI: ill., from Camp II 68316 on G. IV, 64 160-1 travels in, 67 259, 68 230 Gasherbrum group: ill., Gasherbrum Fuhrer, Heinrich: death, 66162 II, III, IV, 64 160-1 Furketlihorn: asc., 70 218 Gasherbrum La: reached, 64 167 Fusilier Peak (Wokkpash): attempt, Gates, C. F.: obit., 61194 6646 Gaudry, Mt (Antarctica): 1st ase., 68 136 1st asc., 66 47 Gauri Sankar: possibilities of asc., 59417 reece, 60 176 GABELHORN,OBER: by S face, 5925, attempt, 65 90, 70 96 61542,6388 ill., 70 94-5 tr., 59 26 NW face, 70 94-5 1st asc. from Wellenkuppe, 60 377 sketch with route of 1964 attempt, by N.N.W arete direct, 61 203 - 70 100 by N face, 65 89 Gavamie, Cirque de: by new route, ill., from Mountet (routes), 61202 61543 Gaillard, E.: obit., 59 71 Geant, Aig. du: by S face, 59 207, 63 245 Gallegione, Pizzo: excursion to, 70 221 Mummery's attempt by N face, 60 129 Galline, Dosso delle: asc., 61205 statue blown from summit, 64 124 Galmiliicke: cr., 61 337 ill., 62 52 G 21

Geant, Col du: solo cr., 69 235 Glaciers: underground, discovered, Geiger, Hermann: death, 71315 63260 his book: Geiger and the Alps, 72173 movement of Swiss, 64 121,6597, Geike, Mt: 1st asc. by N face, 73 274 70326 Geisshorn-Aletschhorn ridge: Pt 3675, in retreat, 65 234 probable 1st asc., 59 2°9,346 Glaciers, Aig. des: asc., 61 70 Gemelli, Piz: by Flatiron ridge, 61 542 ill., 66 78 Geneva: memorials in the English Glencoe: ascs. from, 65 188 church at, 64 239 Gletscherhorn: il1., N face (routes), George Cross: awarded to a climber, 7229°-1 63250 Glockner, Gross: Bishop Salm's George, H. B.: his camera, 62158 expeditions, 69 244 port., 62 17 Glossary: for mountaineers, 73 259 Georges, Joseph: death, 66 163 Gloster Peak (Himalaya): 1st asc., 65 44 obit.,66381 il1., 65 38-9 Gepang: asc., 60 65, 72 203 Glover, G. T.: obit., 59 212 ill., 60 62 Gobbi, Toni: note: U.I.A.G.M., 71 147 Germain, F.: his book: Across the Alps, Gold: in the Alps, 61 548 65 1I8 Goode, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc., 72 330 Gestola: asc., 63 247, 64 1I8 Goodfellow, B. R.: 'Chinese Everest Ghent, Mt (Karakoram): 1st asc., 66 390 expedition, 1960: a further Ghiglione, P.: commentary', 66 3 I 3 his books: Nelle Ande del Sud-Peru, 'The Matterhorn Centenary', 70191 59357 'Wide base stereoscopic photography: Eroismo e Tragedia sui Monte Api, a further note', 72 95 61220 notes: mountaineering in the obit., 66 182 U.S.S.R., 59 459 Ghul Lasht Zorn: reports on Alpine weather and snow 1st asc.: of E Peak, 71 63 conditions, 63 263 of highest Peak, 71 63 exposure meters and compass errors, of SPeak, 73 89 64243 Ghustung Himal: ascs., 7187 P. W. F. Mayo, 64 243 Ghustung North: ascs., 68196,197 crampons in a fifteenth-century ill., 68 208 campaign, 73 257 Gibraltar: guide to rock climbs of, 65 237 port., 70183 Gibson, E. R.: obit., 63106 Goodfellow, T. A. J.: 'The ascents of Gibson, J.: obit., 59 333 Mount Fleming and Mount Gibson, J. T. M.: 'Twenty-five years Midgard',67 101 of schoolboy expeditions in the 'The International Meet of the C.A.F., Himalayas', 69 201 1966',7236 Gill, M.: 'Mount Herschel and Good Neighbour Peak (Alaska): 1st asc., Robertson Bay: Sir 's 7322 Antarctic expedition, 1967',73173 Gopeng Goh: ill., & other Lahouli peaks Gillett, W. A.: obit., 64 283 from Rohtang La, 64 86-7 Gillman, P.: 'The Eigerwand direct', Gordoghan Zorn: asc., 71136 71256 Gordon-Spencer, E. J.: obit., 69 170 his book: (with D. Haston) Eiger (Colorado): origin of name, Direct, 72 163 7131 I Gilroy, Mt (Coast range): asc., 71 300 Gorner gl.: survey of, 64 240 Gippenreiter, E.: 'U.S.S.R. notes, Gosse, P.: obit., 65 92 1959-1963',69293 Gough Island: asc. of highest mountain Girdlestone, Rev. A. G.: biographical in, 61 391 note, 70 203 Gouter, Aig. du: 3rd asc. by N face, Glacier Dome (Annapurna group): 1st 65222 asc., 70 123 Graham, A. C.: obit., 63 127 2nd asc., 71 95 Graham, Peter: obit., 66 386 Glacier Dome (N.Z.): asc., 72 258 Graham, R.: obit., 59 333 22 H

Graham, R. B.: obit., 63 108 Griffin, M.: her book: Tiquimani, 71 18o Grant, R. H.: note: Annapurna II, Grindelwald: graves at, 64 238 65 ISO Grivola: by N ridge, 64 268 his book: Annapurna II, 67 192 Grogan, E. S.: death, 72 328 Gray, D.: 'Expedition filmwork on high Grosvenor, J. E.: obit., 68 352 mountains', 73 35 Gruber, G.: 'A panorama of the Hindu 'Personality and climbing', 73167 Kush',72 I poem: Forced Bivouac, 7317 'A reconnaissance into North-east Greaves, A.: obit., 61 527 Chitral', 73 55 Gredos, Sierra de (Spain): ascs. in, Gspaltenhorn: winter asc. by Rote 73100 Zlihne, 64247 Green, Mt: by S ridge, 61381 by NE face, 72 290 Green Mountain (Karakoram): asc., Gstellihorn, Gross: 2nd asc. by SW 6779 Pillar, 69 133 Green, V. H. : his book: The Swiss Alps, Guan Nelda: 1st asc., 61 308 67194 ill., 61301 Greenald, D. H.: 'Snow Lake, 1956', Guardian, El (Colombia): by new 64 175 route on S face, 62 179 Greenbank, A.: ill., 63 212-13 his books: Climbing, Canoeing, Guex, A.: his book: Pilote des Glaciers, Ski-ing, Caving, 70 172 60432 Instructions in Mountaineering, Gugliermina, G. B.: port., 59 299 73126 obit., 68 167 Greenland: ascs. in, 61543,68307 Gugliermina, G. F.: port., 59 299 expeditions: French to South, 1956, obit., 67 202 6318 Gugliermina, Pta: by S face, 59 207, Franco-Swiss, 1958,64126 60375,61 385,66376,7353,97 Hunt's, 1960,65238,66250 Guide-books: Italian mountain, 59 466 Italian, 1960,66166 early, 62 10, 17 Imperial College, 1963,69253 Guides: deaths of Swiss in 1955,61 2II Scottish to East, 1963,69 127 tales by Swiss (book), 61 221 Royal Navy to East, 1966, 72 29, 212 & the Matterhorn, 62 22 Sandhurst, 1966,7245 in Pioneers of the Alps, 62 42 St Andrews to West, 1967,7368 of Chamonix, 62 42 A. M. A. to Sukkertoppen, 1967, & imitation snakes, 62 50 73234 relationship with amateurs, 62 53 See also p 57 below prestige of, 62 101 Greenwood, H. D.: note: U.LA.A., training of Val d' Aosta, 70 262 73 II6 number licensed in Switzerland & Greg, R. L.: obit., 70 367 Austria, 71 142 Gregory, A.: 'The Merseyside Guisan, H.: obit., 65264 Himalayan expedition, 1955',6154 Gunbaz-e-Safed: attempt, 66 248 his book: The Picture of Everest, 60 Gunther, A. E.: 'Glaciers of the Kulu- 192 Spiti Divide', 59288 Grepon, Aig. du: by E face, 5926, Gurla Mandhata: ill., 66 332 66151 Gurtner, 0.: death, 63 262, 64 128 1st asc., 60 126 Gyachung Kang: 1st asc., 69 289 1st asc. of Pt Balfour, 60 381 Gyalgen Peak: 1st asc., 6161 by C. P. route, 63 219 ill., 61 60-1 5th asc. & 1st tr., 63 219 Gyalzan Kazi: port., 67 299 tr., 67 38 Gyong gl. system: explored & mapped, by Aig. de Roc., 72 40 66149 Gribbon, P.: 'Upernivik Island: the University of St Andrews West Green- HADFIELD,C. F.: obit., 70 368 land expedition, 1967',7368 Hadow, D. R.: his boots on 1st asc. of Griffin, L. J.: his book: (with G. Matterhorn, 63 124 Oliver) Scafell Group, 73 291 port., 61 488-g H 23

Hagen, T.: Harris, M. J.: 'The East Summit of his books: (with others) Mount Dych Tau', 64 66 Everest: Structure, Exploration 'Russian climbing equipment', 6491 and Population of the Everest obit., 64 284 Massif, 65 255 death, 65 7 Nepal, 67 369 Harris, R. G.: obit., 72190 Mount Everest, 68155 Harrison, F.: obit., 59451 Haidinger, Mt: attempt, 72 262 Harrison, J.: death, 71319 Half Dome: ill., N face, 61221 Harrison, Major: port., 59 283 Hall, D. O. W.: New Zealand notes, Hartley, T.: 'Double anniversary on the 60143, 391,61 399, 549,63 135, 264, Dom', 73 205 64251 Hartog, J. M.: 'Pic Sans Nom, Hallworth, R.: his book: The Last Dauphine', 61 87 Flowers on Earth, 73 124 'The climbing of the Muztagh Hamel, Dr: place of death, 63 125 Tower', 61253 Hammock bivouacs: 1st use in the Alps, Hasell, J. A. E.: 'Communications on 72138 the -British Karakoram Hamtah Pass: cr., 6146 expedition, 1962',6998 Handley, C. B. C.: obit., 72 189 Hasler, G. A.: obit., 59 334 Hangde: 1st asc., 67 351 Haston, D.: his book: (with P. Gillman) Hannibal: his passage of the Alps, Eiger Direct, 72 163 6193,215,67243 Hattersley-Smith, G.: note: Ellesmere Hanuman Tibba: 2nd asc., 71303,72201 Island, 67 164, 73 108 3rd asc., 72 326 Haukana: asc., 69 222 ill., from Bruce's Pass, 71 304 Hauser, G.: 'The German Himalayan from Shekuntla Tibba, 72 210 expedition, 1965',7189 Haramosh: attempt, 63132 his book: White Mountain and Tawny 1st asc., 63 261, 64 12 Plain, 67 186 ill., & Mani Peaks (route of 1st asc.), Hawksley, J. C.: note: Bouleau 6414 Mountain, 61215 & Nanga Parbat from Camp 3 on Hearfield, B.: 'Climbs in the Cordillera Malubiting, 65 38 Vileabamba', 69 41 Haramosh La: cr .. 65 47 Hedin, A. S.: obit., 59 77 Hardie, N. D.: New Zealand notes, Heen, A. R.: 'Trollryggen from ~2~,~3~,~3~,~3~, Romsdal',64 183 69300,70334,71319,72334, Helbling, Cerro: 1st asc., 65 241 73275 Heller, M.: his book: (with M. Milne) his book: In Highest Nepal, 63 141 The Book of European Skiing, 72 172 Hardy, H. H.: obit., 64101 Henderson, K. A.: North American Harlin, J.: 'The West face of the Petit notes, 65 251, 67 355, 68 319, 69 297, Dru direct', 71103 70331,71316,72329,73268 obit., 71 346 Henry, P.: his book: (with L. Devies) Harmsworth, Mt (Antarctica): 1st asc., La Chaine du Mont Blanc (III), 72 348 63241 Herbert E. S.: valedictory address, Harper, A. P.: note: 1869 and 1954, 613 59345 'T. Graham Brown', 7151 obit. & port., 60 402 port., 62 84-5, 70 183 Harper Pass: origin of name, 61 549 Herbetet: by S ridge, 64 268 Harper's Saddle: origin of name, 61 549 Herens, Dent d': by E ridge, 59 67 Harrer, H.: by N face (Welzenbach route), 64 266 his books: Seven Years in , 59 355 Hermitage, The: destroyed by fire, The White Spider, 65 1°9,70352 63 129 I Come from the Stone Age, 70 342 Herold, J. C. : his book: The Swiss with- Harris, E.: 'Everest, 1953. The closed out Halos, 60 195 circuit oxygen apparatus', 59 238 Herrligkoffer, K. M.: his book: Nanga Harris, Admiral Sir E. A. S.: Parbat, 60 179 biographical note, 70 203 Herron, Rand: death, 60 178 24 H

Herschel, Mt (Antarctica): 1st asc., Himalaya: expeditions: 7394, 173 since 1939, 62 108 2nd asc., 73179 scientific, 1960-1,66343 ill., 73 180-1 Derbyshire, 1961,6851 Herzog, M.: his book: (with others) Schoolhouse, 69 23, 70 226 La Montagne, 6I 569 by schoolboys, 69 201 Hess, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc., 70 333 heights & earthquakes in, 59 88 Hewitt, H. B.: his book (editor): Peter expedition tariffs (Nepal), 6I 550 Graham, Mountain Guide: an obstruction in, 64 133 Autobiography, 70 339 notes, 65 246 Hewitt, L. R.: 'The second attempt on hints for aspirants, 68 36 Masherbrum', 6I 29 revised heights of highest mountains, his book: (with M. Davidson) The 7°329 Mountains of New Zealand, 60 425 Japanese 1st ascs. in, 7I 253 obit., 69 320 see also p 58 below Hey, W. H.: obit. & port., 6I 194 Himalayan Mountaineering Institute: Hickson, J. W. A.: obit., 6I 366 note on, 73 112 Hidden Peak (see Gasherbrum I) Himal Chuli: attempts, 6I 40, 64 245 Hiebeler, T.: recce,64 134 his books: (editor) Berg und Mensch 1st asc., 65 246 (I96I), 67 368 ill., 6I 40 North Face in Winter, 68 158 Himlung Himal: recce, 70 122 Combats pour l'Riger, 7I 183 Hindu Kush: Highest Mountains, the: summary of expeditions to: ascs. of: 1857-1957,62 165 1963, 6g 124 1966,72 122 1956-8,64136 1964,70 120 1967,7389 1959-61,66391 1965,7I 136 1962-7,73241 expeditions: unclimbed at the end of 1957, 63131 Polish, 1960, 66 235 dates of ascs. of 8000 m peaks, 6g 289 1962,68121 heights of, revised, 70 329 1963,69274 numbers climbed, 7I 153 Garmisch Partenkirchen, 1963, Hill, G.: 'Papsura: the summit climb', 69249 73 164 Scottish, 1965, 7I 58 death, 73 165 Cambridge, 1966, 72 65 Hillary, E. P.: 'Everest, 1953. The last articles re in O.A.Z., 69 289 lap', 59 235 topography, 7I 199 his books: High Adventure, 60 425 travellers & surveyors in, 7I 202 (with W. G. Lowe) East of &erest, mountaineering history, 7I 205 6I422 tax on expeditions to, 7I 313 No Latitude for Error, 66401 panorama of, 72 I (with D. Doig) High in the Thin 7000 m peaks in, 72 13 Cold Air, 68151 new map of, 73 IIO Schoolhouse in the Clouds, 70 167 archives, 73 I II Hills, D. C.: his book: My Travels in ill., panorama of the high (Eastern), Turkey, 69 307 726,7 Himalaya: see also p 6 I below summary of expeditions to: Hindu Raj: 1954,59462 1960,65246 ill., panorama from near Pechus, 1955,60385 1961,66389 736o 1956, 6I 396 1962,6,351 from near Kan Khun, 73 61 1957,63131 1963,68305 peaks above Madod valley, 73 62 1958, 63 261 1964, 69 289 Hingston, R. W. G.: obit., 7I 347 1959,64245 1965,7° 330, 7I 153 Hinings, R.: note: keeping warm in expeditions: Creagh Dhu, 1953,60 58 sleeping-bags, 72 313 Hooker's journeys, 60 84 Hirondelles, Col des: attempt, 6, 222 before 1914 war, 62 71 ill., 67 219 H 25

Hispar Pass: cr., 60 15, 64 179 Hoyte, J.: his book: Trunk Roadfor Hiunehuli Patan: reece, 68 201 Hannibal, 67 371 Hjornespids: 1st ase., 66 256 Huaeratanca: 1st asc. of NE Peak, Hoary Peak (Talkeetna): 1St ase., 73 27 I 70243 Hobday, S. R.: obit., 61 367 Huaerish Norte: 1st asc., 72146 Hochgebirgsfiihrer durch die Berner Alpen: Huagaruneho: 1st ase., 61 441 rev. of vol. V, 61 230 ill., 60 72-3 vol. IV, 61 573 from Peak A, showing route of Hoekenhull, H. K.: 'Special oeeasion- 1st ase., 61 440-1 July 14, 1965',70197 S face, 61 440-1 Hodge, E. W.: Huandoy: SPeak: new route via W his books: The Northern Highlands, buttress, 70 124, 144 59482 ill., S Peak from E, 60 72-3 (with W. W. Naismith) The Islands from below Pisco, 69 94-5 of Scotland (excluding Skye), three peaks from E, 69 94-5 59 101 Huasearan: ase. of SPeak, 61 201 Hodgkinson, D. A.: obit., 64 286 ase., 64 115,65249 Hoeman, J. V.: 'Yukon Alpine attempt by E ridge, 66 206 Centennial expedition', 73 22 1st asc. by N face of N Peak, 72 146 Hollingsworth, J. H.: obit., 63 II I ill., from SW, 64 116 Holmes, P. F.: 'Spiti, 1956',61458 SPeak, 66 204-5 his book: Mountains and a Monastery, N Peak from E, 69 94 64147 Huayhuash, Cordillera: ases. in, 69 126 Holmes, Sherlock: & the Theodule ill., 60 72-3 Pass, 59 345 Huaynaceapae: ases., 66 150 Hong Kong: guide to rock climbs, 65119 Huayna Potosi: ase., 67 170 Hood, Mt: by Yocum ridge, 65 252 Hudson, Rev Charles: biographical Hooker, Mt (U.S.A.): by N face, 70 333 notes, 63 123 Hooker, Sir J. D.: Himalayan journeys at the Eggishorn hotel, 63 254 summarised, 60 84 his climbing career, 71 117 Hope, R. F.: obit., 69 321 Huggins, M t (Antarctica): 1St ase., Hornbein, T. F.: 'The ascent of 63241 Masherbrum', 67 9 Hugi, F. J.: his climbs, 68210 his book: Everest: the West Ridge, Hulton, E.: port., 62 52-3 72176,338 Humble, B. H.: his book: The Cuiltin Horniblow, P. J.: 'Khinyang Chhish, of Skye, S995 1962',68100 Humphreys, G. N. P.: note: Horrorhorn (Cordillera Vilcanota): 1st Ruwenzori, 61 214 ase., 6440 obit., 71 306 Hosford, M.: 'Mountains of the Central Hungabee, Mt: 1st winter asc., 72332 Australian Desert', 67 313 Hunt, C. A.: death, 70 323 Houston, C. S.: Hunt, J.: 'Everest, 1953. Narrative of his books: (with others) K 2 (8,6II the expedition', S9 107 metres), 60 192 'Everest diary', S9 123 K 2: The Savage Mountain, 60 417 'Up and down the Guggi', 61 480 Howard G. E.: obit. & port., 61197 'After a hundred years', 62 I Howard, J. W.: 'Mount Kenya, 1939- 'The Centenary meet at Zermatt, 1952',60270 pages from a diary', 63 87 'Safari in Nepal', 61 38 'British-Soviet Pamirs expedition, 'Lukenya',65 195 1962',6890 notes: Kisoi Munyao, 69 141 'The Tatras in September, 1965', Mount Kenya, 69 285 7137 Howard-Bury, C. K.: obit. & port., 'The Yukon Alpine Centennial 69 171 expedition, 1967',73 18 Howser Peak: ase., 6519 valedictory address, 64 I Howser Spire: attempt, 65 24 notes: British-Soviet Pamir expedi- ill., 65 23 tion, 68 301 26 J

Hunt, J.: notes: Iran: ascs. by French expedition, 60 176 loth anniversary of first ascent of Irish, H. J. H.: obit., 67 154 Everest, 68 304 Irving, R. L. G.: 'Unclouded days, visit to Britain by Polish 1901-14',6262 mountaineers, 72 136 poem: The Under Fives, 61356 U.I.A.A.,72 138 his book: A History of British Himalayan Mountaineering Mountaineering, 60 420 Institute, 73 112 Iselin, F.: his book: (with A. G. his books: The Ascent of Everest, Spectorsky) Invitation to Ski-ing, 59219, 347 5993 (with C. Brasher) The Red Snows, Isherwood, R. H.: obit., 65 266 65114 Isherwood, R. J.: 'More climbs in Hunt, Lord: see Hunt, J. Swat', 70 205 Hunter, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc., 59463, Ishinca: asc., 72 126 6036 Island Peak (Himalaya): 3rd asc., ascs., 72 329 70122 ill., 60 32-3 Issa Khan: port., 61 456 Hunter, R. H. F.: 'The Reading Isselin, H. : University Andean expedition, 1962', his books: La Barre des Ecrins, 59476 68219 Les Aiguilles de Chamonix, 66402 Huntington, J. F.: obit., 66184 Istor-o-Nal: 1st asc., 61 202. (But see Huntington, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc., 7S 168) 69275,70331 1st ascs. of N & NE peaks, 72 328 2nd asc., & 1st by W face, 71 15,316 recce & ascs. in the massif of, 72 123 ill., from Mt Dan Beard, 68 256-7 Italian Alpine Club: book reviewed, NW ridge & W face, 71 14 Alpinismo Italiano nel Mondo, S9 364 W face, 71 14-15 Italian Alps: in 1962,68 132 : geological survey, 68123 Ixtaccihuatl: asc., 70 54 Hurst, L. H.: 'The mountains of Crete', ill., 70 54 65208 Izzard, R.: his book: The Innocent on note: Crete, 63 258 Everest, 60 427 Hutton, H. 1.. : obit., 59 45 I Huxley, A.: his book (editor): Standard JACKSON,F. S.: note: the highest Encyclopedia of the World's mountain in Bhutan, 72 325 Mountains, 68 146 port., 70 I I I Hvannadlshnukur (Iceland): 1st asc., Jackson, J.: her book: The Turkish Time 69285 Machine, 72 174 Hydro-electric schemes: 66 160 Jackson, J. A.: 'The crossing of the North and Central Staunings', ICE-AXE:new type of, 73 265 66250 Iceland: 1st asc. of highest mountain in, his book: More than Mountains, 61 219 69285 Jackson, M.: 'The Scottish Women's Ichac, M. : his book: Quand Brillent les Himalayan expedition', 61 60 Etoiles de Midi, 66 405 her book: (with E. Stark) Tents in the Ida, Mt (Crete): asc., 65 212 Clouds, 61 423 Iguenouane (Atlas): asc., 67 69 Jagdula: 1962 expedition to, 68 65 Illimani: Conway's asc., 60172 Jahn, Pico: 1st asc., 67 284,337 Indian Peaks (Colorado): ascs. in, 71 33 James, J. E.: obit., 71 194 Indrasan: attempts, 66 390, 67 327,6853 James, R.: 'A comparison of mountain 1st asc., 68 123 rescue stretchers used in Britain', ill., from Hamtah Pass, 61 301 73223 route on, 67 330 James, W. W.: obit., 71195 from lower slopes of Deo Tibba, Jancururish: 1st asc., 72146 67331 Jangi Tau: Schwarzgruber rib: attempt Ingham, V.: 'Anne Lister's ascent of 63247,6470 Vignemale' , 73 199 asc., 64 259 Inner Line: regulations available, 66 389 ill., 64 72 K 27

Jannu: attempt, 64 245 J orasses, Grandes: 1St asc., 67351,71 165 ill., Tronchey ridge, 59 328 Japan: modem mountaineering in, 71248 Walker buttress from Couvercle, ill., 71 252-3 64194 Japuma, Nevado de: ascs., 65 86, 66 IS0 Jorasses, Petites: by W face, 63 244 tr., 66 IS I Jossi, Christian (Solm): obit., 61 209 ill., views from summit, 60 282 Juchina, Pik (Pamirs): asc., 73 28 Jardin, Aig. du: 1St asc. by Central Jugal Himal: expedition to, 616o Pillar of S face, 73 98 Juncal Nevado: 2nd asc. by N face, Jardin du Roy (Vercors): 1St asc. by 67170 NE Pillar, 64 268 ill., 64 232-3 Jarvis, Mt: 1St asc., 73 271 Jungfrau: attempt, 61 480 Jatunhuma Peaks: attempts & 1St ascs., tr., 67 222 6439-40 extension of railway proposed, 67 346 Jatunriti: 1st asc., 6442 Jungfraujoch: 1St aeroplane landing near, Jayal, N. D.: obit., 63 231 64242 Jazzi, Cima di: 1St direct asc. by S face, record number of passengers to, 66 159 65222 Jeffrey, R.: obit., 61 368 K 2: American attempt, 1953,59215, Jervis, S.: 'In the Cordillera Vilcanota', 391 6438 1st asc., 59462,603 Jirishhanca: 2nd asc., 72146 ill., from Concordia, 59 396 3rd asc., 73 II8 from Base Camp, 60 8 111.,69 III summit, 609 John of Austria, Archduke: centenary K 6: reece, 67 77 of his death, 64241 supposed attempt, 70 138, 329 note on, 65 230 K I2: reece, 66 148 Jolly, A. R.: 'Hannibal's Pass: results ill., panorama of country round, of an empirical test', 67 243 63 188-9 Jonas, R.: death, 67 159 Kabru: attempt, 59 320 Jones, C.: 'Dreamland', 73 64 ill., massif from Yalung valley, 59 320 Jones, C. T.: note: (with J. Neill) climbs from near summit of Kangchen- in , 67 173 junga, 60 220-1 his book: (with J. Neill) Snowdon Ka~kar group (Turkey): expedition to, South, 71 336 ~ 129 Jones, J. H. Emlyn: ill., 69 94-5 'Ama Dablam, 1959',65 I Kagmara: asc. of three peaks of, 68 74 Jones, M. F. R.: 'The mountains of Kagmara I: a peak of climbed, 70 257 W okkpash', 66 42 ill., 68 70-1 note: La Bruyere, 67 159 Kahusi, Mt (Belgian Congo): asc., 65 91 death, 67 342 Kaiko (Andes): 2nd asc., 6945 Jongsong Peak: narrow escape on, Kailas, Mt: ill., from above Daschan, 6663 66333 Jorasses, Col des Grandes: cr., 67 220 Kain, C.: his book: Where the Clouds Jorasses, Grandes: by SE (Tronchey) Can Go, 60432 ridge, 59 205, 323 Kaisergebirge: ascs. in, 1962,67341 Pte Margherita: 1st asc. by N face, Kajan Pass (Hindu Kush): cr., 72 75 64 II7 Kaltenegger, P.: 'Dr. Julius Kugy', Pte Walker: by N face, 63 246, 7086 64193, 268 note: Paul Preuss, 68 299 1St winter asc. by N face, 68 135 Kamet: 2nd asc., 60 385 Pte Whymper: 1St direct asc. by N ill.,62 165 face, 69 278 Kanesaka, 1.: note: Himal Chuli, 64 134 Pte Young: 1St asc. by N face, 64 II7 Kangbachen: attempt, 71 153 1St desc. by N face, 65 98 ill., 60 220-1 1St asc. by the Shroud, 70 317, 71 140 Kangchenjunga: 1954 recce expedition, correction re, 73 258 59428 3 Kangchenjunga: Kempf, B. : his book: Guide Pratique history, 60 83 de la Montagne, 68 156 1st asc., 60 207 Kennedy, E. S.: port., 62 24 S.W. approach to, 61 213 Kennedy, Mt (Yukon): naming of, 70 137 ill., 59428 1st & 2nd ascs., 71 149 from SW, 60 83 correction re 1St asc., 71 3 14 SW face, 60 212 Kenya, Mt: ascs.: 64212,213,69276, S Peak from near summit, 60 220-1 71321,72336,7394 Kangcho (Nepal): asc., 59 IIO Batian: by N face, 69 84 Kang Guru: 1st asc., 60 385 Nelion: 1st asc. by NE Pillar, 69 259 Kangla Ka Chu La: cr., 70 112 1st asc. by E face, 69 276 Kangtega: asc. of satellite re1k of, by normal route, 69 276 62172 Pt Lenana: ascs., 64 212, 69 86,277 1st asc., 68 306, 69 30 Pt Peter: by N ridge, 69 86 ill., from Base Camp, 69 30-1 Sendeyo: asc., 69 84 & Thamserku from NW, 7094 Tereri: asc., 69 84 Kanjiroba: by a new route, 69 277 ill., from Kagmara Lekh, 68 70, 70-1 Grand Traverse, 69 304, 70 294 from 19,000 ft on Lha Shamma, new routes on, 65 245. 67 365 70252-3 new map of, 59 465, 70 137 from Bhulu Lhasa, 70 252-3 history, 60 270 Kanjiroba Himal: expeditions to, 66 390, new hut on, 65 245 6865 accident, 67 364 peak attempted, 68 70 flag raising on, 69 141, 285 asc. of, 68 73 ill., main peaks from N, 60 272 article re in G.J.,73 I IS from SE (with normal route), ill., 67 126-7, 68 70-1 60272-3 Kanjut Sar: 1st asc., 64 245,260,6589 S face from Pt John (route), 60 272-3 Karakoram: from Two Tarn Col (routes), expeditions: 60273 Italian, 1954,60 3 from S (routes), 60 274 Imperial College, 1957,63 185 Batian & Nelion, 64 208, 70 284-5 R.A.F., 1961, 6773 Nelion, E face, 64 209, 69 244-5 spelling of, 67 348 SE face 70284-5 communications on 1962 expedition, N face, 69 78--<) 6998 NE face, showing existing routes, meaning of the word, 69 144 69244-5 see also p 59 below Kerguelen: ice-cap explored, 66 55 Karwendel: ascs. in, 1962,67341 Kero Lungma gl.: ascs. from, 65 40, 42 Kasbek: 1st asc., 60 113 Kerr, A. C.: obit., 66419 Kasiri (Andes): asc., 69 219 Kesch, Piz: narrow escape on, 66 58 Kasiri Aguja: asc., 69 218 Kesha La: cr., 70 III Kasparek, F.: death, 60 170 Khan Shai (Swat Kohistan): asc., 67 52 Kasper, Hans: death, 59458 Khan Tengri: ill., 61324-5 Kates Needle (Coast range): 2nd ase., Khinyang Chhish: attempt & accident, 71300 67 342, 68 100 Kay, R.: obit., 60 406 ill., 66 7 Keenlyside, F. H.: relinquishes Editor- S ridge, 68 103 ship of AlpineJournal, 67154 Khorabort Zom: asc., 71 136 Keitz, J.: note on, & port., 67 160 Khorpusht-e-Yakhi: 1st asc., 66 248 Kelly, N.: 'Expedition film work on Khumbu Himal: new map of, 71152 high mountains', 73 35 Kihara, H.: Kempe, J. W. R.: 'The Yalung Valley, his books: Fauna and Flora of Nepal 1953',59316 Himalaya, 61 228 'Kangchenjunga reconnaissance, Land and Crop of Nepal Himalaya, 1954',59428 61574 'Invitation accepted', 61 435 Peoples of Nepal Himalaya, 63 143 K 29

Kilgour, H.: 'The Green Abyss: on Koh-i-Bay Qara: ase., 7°121 being nearly drowned at Chair Koh-i-Chhateboi: 1st ase., 73 212 Ladder, Cornwall', 73 216 Koh-i-Chiantar: 1st ase., 73 209 Kilimanjaro : Koh-i-Chrebek: 2nd ase., 7159 ascs.: 65 237, 66 388, 68 301, 69 87, Koh-i-Kesnikhan: 1St ase., 69124 306 Koh-i-Mareheeh: 1st ase. of N Summit, 1st of Kirsten g1., 68 325 7I60 2nd & 1st solo by Decken g1., 69 305 Koh-i-Nadir Shah: 2nd ase., 7°120 Mawenzi: 1st by E face, 7°125, Koh-i-Parshui: 1st & 2nd ases., 72 310 7I322 ill., 72 306 3rd of Heim g1., 7I 322 Koh-i-Sisgeikh: 1st ase., 7159 notes on, 60 96 Koh-i- Tundy Shagai Sha: 1st ase., 72 310 height, 60 97 Koh-i-Warghut: 1st ase., 73 212 flag raising on, 67 166, 365 Koh-i-Yajun ('Py'): 1st ase., 73 91 parachutists land on, 67 347 Kohli, M. S.: 'Nine on the summit of Kaiser Wilhelmspitze renamed, 70 328 Everest', 7I I ill., 69 78-<) Koktang: attempt, 59 319 Kinabalu: northern approaches of, 63 27 il1., 59 319 1st asc. by N face, 70 125 Kolahoi Northern g1.: description of, King, W. W.: obit., 65 93 68 138 Kingspitz (Engelhorner): origin of Kolb, F.: his book: Himalaya Venture, name, 69 143, 290 64273 Kinshofer, T.: death, 70 135 Kondus- Kaberi: topography of the Kishmi Khan: ascs. 69 274 aiguilles of, 72 140 ill., 7I 212 ill., 72 140, 141 Kisoi Munyao: his ascs., 69 141 Kondus Peak: 1St ase., 64173 Knowles, G. J. F.: obit., 64 288 Kongen (Norway): 1st ase. by E face Knox, C. F.: death, 70 133 direct, 73 104 Knox, H. V.: obit., 65 225 ill., 73 63 Knubel, Josef: death, 66 380 Kophino Vouno (Crete): description obit., 67 205 of, 65 213 Ziircher's paper on, 67269 Korzhenevskaya, Pik: 1st ase., 61328 port., 67 206, 270 Koshtantau: by N ridge, 64 260 Kogan, C.: her book: (with R. Lambert) ill., 60 352 White Fury, 6I 565 Kosterlitz, J. M.: 'Yerupaja', 72 284 death, 65 90 Kotgaz Zorn: 1st ase., 72 122, 229 Kogan, G.: his book: (with N. 2nd ase., 72 230 Leininger) The Ascent of Alpamayo, ill., 72 210-II 60 187 Kubor, Mt (New Guinea): 1st ase., Koh-e-Bandaka: location of, 68137 7°314 ascs.: 2nd, 69 250 Kuen Lun: note on, 69 286 3rd,7I 136 Kugy, Julius: reminiscences of, 70 86 by N face, 7I 136 Kuh-e-Awar: 1st ase., 69 274 5th,72 122 Kuh-e-Mandaras: ill., 71212-13 6th, 73 90 Kuh-e-Uparisina: ill., 7I 212-13 7th, & 1st by S face, 73 90 Kulu: search for Abominable Snowman il1., from Sakhi valley, 69 244-5 in, 63 223 N & main summits, 69244-5 Derbyshire expedition to, 1961, Koh-e-Bandaka-Sakhi: 1St ase., 69 250 67323,6852 Koh-e-Bandaka-Tawika: 1st ase., 7I 136 see also p 60 below Koh-e-Bandaka Uris: 1st ase., 71 136 Kulu Makalu: 1st ase., 68 54 Koh-e-Ka-Jurm: il1., 69 244-5 Kulu Pumori: 1st ase., 69 274, 70 79 Koh-e-Ka Safed: 4th & 5th ases., 73 90 2nd ase., 70 83 Koh-e-Piv: ill., & Kolla-e-Miinehen ill., 70 78-9 from N, 71 212-13 Kulu Spiti divide: glaciers of, 59 288 Koh-i-Askival: 1St ase., 716o Sherborne expedition to, 64 254 Koh-i-Batzenhiiusl: 1st ase., 73 211 Kunzam Peak, South: 1St ase., 61282 30 L

Kurdistan: climbing in Turkish, 71133 Lauteraarjoch: accident, 1880,60172 Kurz, M.: Lavaredo, Tre Cime di: his books: Chronique Himalayenne, Cima Grande: I940-I955,65 II8, 66 389, 424 N face: ascs., 61541,64267, Part II, 69 314 65 184, 70247 death, 72 320 by via direttissima, 64 122, 267, obit. & port., 73 129 65182 Kuwabara, T.: 'The first ascent of 1st winter, 66 385 Chogolisa', 64 168 1st winter by new direct route, Kwaja Muhammad range: ascs. in, 72 122 68135 grading of, 66 194 LACHENAL,L.: death, 61 210 ill., N face (routes), 65 184-5 Ladkin, R.: death, 60 382 Cima Ovest: Lady mountaineers: 62 12,44 N face: ascs., 64 267, 65184,67 30, Lahul: ascs. in, 60 62 68225 expeditions to, 61 45, 279 by via direttissima, 65 89 history of exploration & climbing in, 1st winter, 60 171 61290 Cima Piccola: by Spigolo Giallo, bibliography, 61 292 61 541, 70 300 ill., 61 280-3 description of route, 66157 see also p 60 below by SW face of Anticima Sud, 64 267 Lai Blau, Fuorcla del: 1st tourist cr., Cima Piccolissima: by Preuss Riss, 59456 64267 Lake District: afforestation in, 60 171 Lefroy, Mt: 1st winter asc., 72 332 litter & telephone wires in, 66161 Left Guardian (Pamirs): 1st tr. by N Lama Surjang: asc., 60 262 face & NE ridge, 73 28 Lambert, R.: Lehmann, C. T.: obit., 61528 his books: (with G. Chevalley & Leifer, W.: his book: Himalaya, R. Dittert) Avant-Premieres a Mountains of Destiny, 68 157 I'Everest, 59 352 Leininger, N.: her book: (with G. (with C. Kogan) White Fury, 61 565 Kogan) The Ascent of Alpamayo, 60 187 Lamjung Peak: attempt, 73 249 Lenin, Pik: ascs., 64 246,7331 Lamjung Pinnacle East: asc., 73 250 1st asc. by E face, 73 31 Lampugnani, G.: port., 59299 1st desc. by N face, 73 32 Langar peaks (Hindu Kush): ascs., 70 121 ill., 61 324-5,7322-3 Langcha: asc., 62 171 Lenzspitze: tr. to Nadelhorn, 65 218 Langford, R. E.: 'The Cambridge Arctic Leon, El (Venezuela): asc., 67 285 Canada expedition, 1961, to Cum- Leonard, R. G.: his book: Nepal and berland Peninsula, Baffin Island', 67 97 the Gurkhas, 71 178 Langmuir, E.: note: Mountain Rescue Leopold II, H.M. King: interest in Service in Czechoslovakia, 73 260 mountaineering, 63 123 Langtrang Himal: attempt on highest Leschaux, Aig. de: new asc. by W arc~te, peak, 66 390 69 278 expedition to, 68 291 1st asc. by SW arete integrale, 70 128 asc. of peak in, 68 306 by NE face, 73 99 nomenclature in, 69 287 Lha Shamma (Nepal): attempts, 68 70, Langu gorge(Nepal): passage of, 70 259 70258 Languta-e-Barf: 1st asc., 69 274 1st asc., 68 73 1st asc. of S peak from Rosh Gol, : origin of name, 60 132 72328 reached from S, 60 384 Lanin: 1st & subsequent ascs., 67163 Lhotse: attempt, 61213 Lasonayoc: 2nd asc., 69 61 1st asc., 61247 ill.,6946---7 ill., from West Cwm, 59 II4 Lauitor: 2nd cr., 59 59 from c. 27,000 fton Everest, 62 242-3 Laupersbjoerg (Greenland): 2nd asc., & Chamlang from summit of 72142 Everest, 69 IS ill., 72 21Q-II Lindsay, C. S.: obit., 67 379 L 31

Ling, W. N.: obit., 59 336 Louis, Mt: by new route on S face, Linsbauer, A.: 'A visit to the Chiantar 7°333 glacier region, Eastern Hindu Kush, Lourousa: asc., 70 222 1967',73207 Lovat, L. S.: his book (S.M. C.) : Lion, Col du: 1st cr., 60123 Climber's Guide to Glencoe and Liotard, Mt (Antarctica): 1st asc., 67228 Ardgour, vol. 1,65 120 Lipscomb, G.: obit., 59 335 Lowe, W. G.: 'The Barun expedition, Lister, Anne: her asc. of Vignemale, 1954',60227 73199 note: international film festival, 64 Lister, G. A.: obit., 59 82 123 Lister, Mt (Antarctica): 1st asc., 68 301 his books: (with E. P. Hillary) East Lloyd, P.: 'Climbing in Turkish of Everest, 61 422 Kurdistan', 71 133 Because it is There, 65 I I I Lloyd, R. W.: obit. & port., 63 232 Lowndes, W. G.: obit., 61529 Lobuje Peak: asc. of W summit, 62171 Loyacjirca, Nevado: 2nd asc., 65 221 Lochmatter, Alexander: biographical 3rd asc., 69 226 note, 70 203 L-S, P.: his book: Record of an Ascent, Lochmatter, Franz: memorial tablet to, 66409 63126 Lugmayer, K.: 'The North face of the Lochmatter, Gabriel: death, 63 126 Schermberg in Winter', 70 286 Lochmatter, Joseph-Marie: biographical Luis de Savoya: see Yagan, Cerro note, 70 203 Lukan, K.: Lochmatter, Rafael: death, 65 236 his books: Die Alpen vom Mont Lofoten Islands: ascs. in, 7°132 Ventoux bis zum Kahlenberg, Logan, Mt: 65258 E Peak: 1st asc. by E ridge, 64 54 (with C. W. F. Noyce) The Alps, 2nd asc., 65 251 66407 2nd asc. by E ridge, 67 358 Lukenya: climbs on, 65195 by a new route, 70 332 Lunkho group: ill., from Camp 2 on tr., 71316,73271 Kotgaz Zorn, 72 210-1 I by W ridge, 72 330 Lunn, A.: 'Human nature in the ', by original route, 72 331 60135 1st asc. by ESE ridge, 73 91 'Alpine controversies', 62 144 by Catenary ridge, 73 272 'Geoffrey Winthrop Young', 66100, ill., 64 54 169 Logan Mts: ascs. in, 67 359, 69127, letters re, 66195,424,67210 7123, 317 'The Swiss pioneers', 68 205 ill.,71 IS 'Whymper again', 71 228 Lomnica (Tatra): 1st asc., 71 40 notes: Whymper's engravings, 59 344 Longland, J. H.: 'Cambridge on Puma- Othmar Gurtner, 64 128 sillo', 63 9 his books: The Story of Ski-ing, 59 93 'Bons rochers, belle varappe', 68 116 Zermatt and the Valais, 60 430 Longland, J. L.: 'Between the wars', A Century of Mountaineering, 62190 6283 The Bernese Oberland, 63 267 Longley-Cook, H. St V.: note: the S The Swiss and their Mountains, ridge of the Salbitschijen, 59 87 69148 Longman, W.: port., 6216 Matterhorn Centenary, 70 353 (Colorado): 3rd asc. of the Unkilledfor so long, 73 279 Diamond, 73 91 Lupke Brakk: asc., 64180 ill., 71 30 Lyngen Peak II: ill., 60 278 Longstaff, T. G.: 'Fifty years ago', 62 133 Lyngen Peninsula: winter mountain- obit., 69 322, 7°133 eering in, 60 276 port., 69 323 Lys, Col de: crossed by a dog, 60 378 Lonpo Gang: attempt, 66 390 Lyskamm: tr., 59 23, 63 87 1st asc., 67351 by NW ridge, 59455 Lotschental: threatened ruination of, by NE face, 6393, 64 268 67 157 1st winter asc. by NE face, 68 298 32 M

M, AIG. DE L': ascs., 66152 Malczewski, A.: note on, 6:1:394 by NE ridge, 59 324 Mallory, G. L.: early climbs, 73 265 by Couzy route, 69 96 Malubiting: 1st asc. of E Peak, 65 46 M 2 (Hindu Kush): 1st asc., 69 274 note on the group, 67 167 Mabu Pass: cr., 67129 ill., E Peak from Camp 3, 65 39 'Maccabeo' (dog): death, 70 134 massif of, 67168 MacCarthy, A. H.: obit., 6:1:530 : Japanese attempt prevented, Macha Puchare: attempt, 62 I I 3 59462 attempts banned by Nepalese 1st asc., 6:1:396 Government, 69 147 1st asc. of N Peak, 70122 ill., from W, 62 II6 Manaslu II: attempt, 66 390 from above Camp IV, 62 II6-17 Mankial: letter re 1st asc., 67408 from Annapurna IV, 67 336 asc., 70 209 S face from Mardi Himal, 67 337 ill., 70 213 from Camp 3 on Gangapurna, Maps: early Alpine, 62 5,13-14,18,48 7:1:78-9 Central Elburz, 63 207 Machin, C. B.: obit., 69174 Everest region, 63 255 MacInnes, H.: 'The Creagh Dhu Ruwenzori, 64 60, 256, 67 364 Himalayan expedition, 1953',6058 Mt McKinley, 66 164 'A first ascent on Mount Cook', 6:1:330 Andes of Venezuela, 69 122 'No Yeti in Kulu', 63 223 Mt Kenya, 59465,7° 137 'The South-West Pillar; Bonatti route geological of Mt Blanc massif, 70 352 on the Petit Dru', 64 25 Khumbu Himal, 7:1:152 'The traverse of Shkhelda', 67 54 Afghanistan, 72 324 'In the footsteps of the masters', Hindu Kush, 73 110 64193 see also lists in Special Districts port., 60 58, 6:1:456 index Mackay, A. M.: obit., 6:1:208 Maraini, F.: 'The Italian expedition to Mackay, D.: 'Thamserku', 70 90 Gasherbrum IV', 64 155 Mackenzie, FitzArundell: biographical 'A Roman flag on Saraghrar Peak', note, 70 203 65 151 Mackinnon, T.: 'Scottish Nepal 'The South face of Mount McKinley', expedition, 1952',59417 68108 Macphee, G. G.: obit., 68 353 his books: Karakoram, 67 184 MacRobert, H.: his book: The Central Where Four Worlds Meet, 70163 Highlands, 59 100 Marbore, Tour du: N face: attempt, obit.,60 155 6:1:542 Magni, F.: port., 59 299 Marchart, D.: 'The North face of the Magnone, G.: his book: La Face W. des Matterhorn', 67 26 Drus, 59 471 death, 68 131 Maiktoli: 2nd asc., 66 390 Marcus, R. B. : her book: The Book of Maillard, C.: 'Greenland Sud', 6318 Glaciers, 68 334 Mailleux, R.: his book: Le Roi Albert Marcus Baker, Mt: 2nd asc., 72 330 Alpiniste,63 145 Mardi Himal (Nepal): 1st asc., 67 336 Makalu: American attempt, 1954,60 175 Marindin, G. E.: long membership of French recce, 1954,60175 A.C., 59 214 1st asc., 6:1:13 Mariner, W.: his book: Mountain Rescue attempt, 66 359 Techniques, 70 348 desc. from, 1961,68 II Markbreiter, C. G.: obit., 68 355 ill., from tributary gl. of Barun, 59 17 Marmolada (Bugaboo): 1st asc. by S. from Base Camp, 60 230-1 face, 65 23 from summit of Pethangtse, 60 232 ill., 65 22-3 W face, 6:1:25,6814 Marmolada (Dolomites): by S face, Makalu II: 1st asc., 60175 6733,70299 Makrong Chhish: ill., 66 6 1st winter asc. by S face, 72 323 Malartic, Y.: his book: La Conquete de Marmolejo: ill., & Marmolejo Norte L' Everest par le Sherpa Tenzing, 59355 from NW, 68 224-5 M 33

Maroon Bells (Colorado): ill., NE faces, NW (Zmutt) ridge: accident, 64 248 7230-1 and the early guides, 6z 22 Marsden, A. D.: his book: Climbing '1st asc.', 63127 Guide to Gibraltar, 71 183 asc., 64 310 Masherbrum: attempts, 60 385, 61 29, solo, 70 197 63169 tr., 67 223 1st asc., 65 248, 67 9 solo, 67 85 ill., from Base Camp, 61 32 attempts by Parker brothers, 68 285 SE face (route), 63 173,67 14-15 some dates in the history of, 70 8 showing twin summits, 63180 random thoughts on, 70 38 summit & W Peak, 67 22 an impression from Italy, 7043 Mason, K.: four ar~tes in one day, 72 131 note: a new map of Everest, 63 255 televised asc., 1965,72246 the new map of Mt McKinley, 66 ill., 59 202, 70 14 164 E face, 61 488 a new map of the Khumbu Himal, S face, 6248 71 152 Zmutt ar~te & Tiefenmatten face, his book: Abode of Snow, 60416 6249 Matathumba (Nepal): 1st asc., 67 126 N face, 67 26 ill.,67126-7 party of 1st asc., 7014-15 Matchu Suchi Coochi (Andes): asc., from the Hohbalm, 7015 65176 Maudit, Mt: by frontier ridge, 63 246, Mather, J. N.: 'The Peuterey ridge', 69 96 594°2 1st asc., by Brenva face direct, 64 269 Mathews, C. E.: port., 62 34 ill., N face, 66 79 Mathews, W.: port., 6216 Maurys, Pierre: death, 69 291 Matri: asc. disputed, 69 146 Mauthner, M. K.: obit., 60156 Matterhorn : Mayo gl.; ill., 65 164-5 1st asc.: rope broken on, 60 381 Mayo, P. W. F.: obit., 64249 Taugwalder's narrative, 61 484 McArthur, H.: 'Central Lahul', 61 279 notes on, 61 493 obit., 64 102 effects of the accident, 62 39 McArthur, Mt (Alaska): asc., 67 358 apparition on, 62 182 McCall, J. B. : note: climbs in Ireland, Hadow's boots on, 63124 65106 fees paid to the Taugwalders, McCauley, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc., 65 251 63255 McClymont, W. G.: his book: The centenary of, 70 7 Exploration of New Zealand, 64 276 celebrations at Zermatt, 70 191 McDonald, A. H.: 'Hannibal's passage corrections & additions to of the Alps', 61 93 articles re, 70 323 McKinley, Mt: documents relating to, 70 IS ascs.: 1st from S, 59463 events after the disaster, 70 199 of N Peak, 59463,67 355 comments on the accident, 71 124 1st by NW buttress, 6031 E face: 2nd asc., 59 46 I 1st by S buttress & 1st tr., 60 176, 1st winter, 64 247 367 N face: by Japanese climbers, 65 222, 71317 ascs.: 59 462, 61 542, 65 88, 66 377, 1st British, 67 348, 71 19 6726 by S face, 67 355, 68 108 1st solo, 67 29 by Pioneer Ridge, 67 355 1st winter, 67 157 1st by E spur, 68 319 1st winter solo, 70 317 1st by Wickersham Wall, 69 127 4th winter, 73 43 by W buttress, 67 356, 70 331, W face: 1st direct asc., 68126 72329 SW ridge: solo asc., 60 378 total ascs. to date, 67 357 SE (Furggen ridge): 1st British direct 1st winter, 72 329, 73 268 asc., 64 268 various, 67 356, 68319,72329 other ascs., 67 340 accidents, 60 176, 368,7391,268,269 34 M

McKinley, Mt.: Merezenbachliicke: 1st tourist cr., new routes on, 65 251, 69 297 59457 new map of, 66 164 Merida, Sierra Nevada de: expedition attempt by Wickersham Wall, 67 356 to, 67 280 Services expedition to, 7r. 19 bibliography, 67 286 renaming of twin peaks of, 7r. 149 ill., 67 282-3 ill., NW buttress, 60 32 Merrick, H.: 'Everest: the Chinese route taken on 1st asc. of S buttress, photograph', 67 310, 6848 60368 his books: Out of the Night, 63 144 S face, 68 110 The Great Motor Highways of the from S, 7r. 14-15 Alps, 64 145, 67 195 McMorris, W. B.: his book: The Real The Perpetual Hills, 70 169 Book of Mountaineering, 67 194 Merriman, S.de V.: obit., 6r. 532 McNaught, W.: obit., 59 210 Mexico: mountains of, 70 48 McNaught-Davis, I.: 'The Hjornespids', Meyer family: their climbs, 68 209 66 256 Meyer, H. A.: 'The Centenary Recep- 'British-Soviet Pamirs expedition, tion-A Royal Occasion', 63 80 1962' (part II), 68 243 Middleton, D.: her book: Victorian Meade, C. F.: his book: High Mountains, Lady Travellers, 70 169 6019°,439 Middleton, L. M.: 'The Campanile note: Pierre Blanc, 7r. 146 Basso di Brenta, 1899-1959',66 304 Mears, R. P.: obit., 67155 Midgard, Mt (Baffin Island): 1st asc., Meciani, P.: his book: Le Ande: mono- 67102 grafiageografico-alpinistica, 7r. 181, 339 Midi, Aig. du: by route Rebuffat, 63 245 Medagstind (Norway): asc., 60 278 1st asc. of N Summit by W ridge, ill., 60 279 65222 Medicine: high altitude, 59 493 by SE face, 66 152 Medley, J. F.: obit., 65 224 by new route on Chamonix side, Meets (other than A.C.): Army 67219 Mountaineering Assoc., 65 214, 2nd asc. by central eperon of N face, 66 155 7°314 French International, 1967,739 Midi, Dents du: 1st asc. by NE ridge Meier, K. E.: death, 70 143 integrale, 70 316 Meije, Breche de la: cr., 64 263 Migot, A.: his book: Tibetan Marches, Meije, La: 1st winter asc. by S face, 60189 62178 Migot, Pte: 1st asc. by N eperon, tr., 64 263, 67 219 69278, 70 129 rock fall on, 69 283 Mills, E. J. E.: 'The Parachute Brigade by W face, 72 99, 73 96 Alaska expedition, 1956',62121 by S face, 73 96 'The A.M.A. Alpine meet, 1959', Meiling, 0.: 'Mount San Valentin', 65214 59432 'Two journeys in Swat Kohistan', 6742 Melbourne, W. H.: 'The Imperial his book: Airborne to the Mountains, College expedition to the Nudo de 67189 Apolobamba, 1959',65 175 death, 67 342 Mengel, E. C.: obit., 65 267 obit., 67 380 Menlung gl.: ill., 6r. 56-7 Milne, M.: his book: (with M. Heller) Mensforth, E.: 'A note on access to the The Book of European Skiing, 72 172 High Atlas, Southern Morocco', 6771 Milner, C. D.: 'A century of mountain Menzies, Mt (Antarctica): 1st asc., photography', 62 157 67166 his book: Mont Blanc and the Mera La: reached, 59 109 Aiguilles, 60 428 Mercanton, P. L.: death, 69 282 Minapin (Diran): attempt, 63 261 Mercedario: new route & accident on, Mingbo Saddle: cr., 60 238 65242 Minya Konka: note on 1st asc., 63 130 Mercers Peak (Wokkpash): 1st asc., 66 47 2nd asc., 63 194 ill., 66 46 ill., 63 196-7 M 35

Mir Samir: attempts, 6:1:538,66140 Morris, James: 'Climbing from the 3rd asc., 72122 outside', 69 63 5th asc., 73 90 his book: Coronation Everest, 63 266 ill., from SE, 6:1:538 Morris, John: from col into Nuristan, 72 62-3 his books: Hired to Kill, 66 410 Mishirgi Tau: by S buttress, 64 260 A Winter in Nepal, 69 158 Mitchell, G. A.: death, 70 133 Morrish, R. L.: 'The Banff-Jasper Mitchell, Mrs: death, 63 134 Highway, 1952',5933 Mitre (Aling gl.): asc., 67 81 Morrison, A. M.: port., 72 274 Mitre (Andes): asc., 69 43 Morrison, C.: his Alpine expeditions, ill., 69 46-7 72327 Mitre Peak (New Zealand): by a new Morrison-Bell, A. C.: obit., 6:1:369 route, 70 334 Morteratsch, Piz: an early asc., 63 46 Moffat, G.: Moscow-Peking Peak: 1st asc., 64 246 her books: Space below my Feet, 66 41 I Moseley, R.: 'The Petit Dru by the Two Star Red, 70 173 West face', 6025 On my Home Ground, 73 279 Mostowski, J.: 'In the Tatra Mountains', Moine, Aig. du: tr., 6:1:78 6826 asc., 6:1:540 Moulam, A. J. J.: British Isles notes, by E face, 66 152 70146,7:1: 154,72151 Moine-Nonne, Breche: 1st desc. by E his books: Cwm Idwal, 69 313 face, 59465 Carneddau, 72 349 Momhil Sar: 1st asc., 70 69 Mould, D. D. C. P.: his book: The ill., 70 78-9 Mountains of Ireland, 6:1:230 Monch: Mountain nomenclature: suggested ascs.: 6:1:338 principles, 7:1:144 1st from Wengernalp, 59 56 Mountain rescue: Lyons section of the 2nd from Wengernalp, 59 59 C.A.F. on, 62 183, 1st winter, 59 60 in Czechoslovakia, 73 260 1st winter asc. by N face, 68 298 Mountain World, The: reviewed: by N face, 69 133 1954, 60 191 1962-3, 69 3 II Mongejura (Norway): 1st asc. by S face, 1955,6:1: 225 1964-5,7:1: 334 731°3 1956-'7, 64 141 1966-7, 73283 Moni-La: cr., 60 51 1958-9,64141 Montanvert: in the eighteen-nineties, Mountaineer and the law, the: 60 379, 63216 6:1:209 Montgomrey, J. E.: obit., 70 369 Mountaineering: Monton Rojo (Chile): 1st asc., 67 170 survey of: in earliest times, 62 4 Monzino, G.: 1854-65, 62 16 his books: Spedizioni d' Alpinismo in 1865-80,6239 Groenlandia, 72 342 1880-1900,6252 Spedizioni d'Alpinismo in Africa, 1901-14,6262 72343 1919-39,6283 Moore, A. W.: 'The Caucasus in 1874', 1939-56, 62 98 60 305, 6:1:123 Polish, 72 103 port., 60 306, 62 25 & the Press, 66 159 Mooser, Kaspar: death, 7:1:148 mass,66159 Moose's Tooth (Alaska): 1st asc. of W hereditary, 66 160 Peak, 68 263 Mountaineering journals: reviewed, 1st asc., 69 276, 70 331 59222, 484, 6°433, 6:1:579, Mora, M.: his book: (with J. Franco) 63 154,267,64149,65 121,66 179, Ski de France, 67 372 413,67196,68159,337,69164,314, Morado, Cerro Falso (Chile): ill., & 70175,354,7:1: 185, 34°,72 171, Morado,6717° 179,351,73127,292 Moravec, F.: 'Dhaulagiri, 1959', 65 I I Mountains: in art, 62 10 Morin, N.: her book: A Woman's Reach. electrical observations from, 63 259 Mountaineering Memoirs, 73 282 Mouse: a venturesome, 64 131 Mrigthuni: attempt, 60 257 Nampa: identified, 59425 1Stasc., 63 261 ill., 59424-5 Mukar Beh: 1Stasc., 73 245 Nanda Devi: attempt, 66 390 attempt & accident, 73 246 2nd asc., 69 290 ill., 73 244-5 Nanda Kot: 2nd asc., 64 245 Mulgrew, P.: his book: No Place for Nanga Parbat: 1st asc., 59 216,371 Men, 7x 182 Diamir face: attempt, 67 169 Mulhacen: winter asc., 68 62 1Stasc. by, 67 35I Milller, Abraham: death, 68 300 Rupal face: attempt, 69 289 Mummery, A. F.: an unrecorded Nangpa La: cr., 5913 expedition, 59216 Nau Lekh: asc., 60 237 notes on, 60 II8 Negri, -: port., 59 299 election to Alpine Club, 60 120, 127, Negri, N. C.: 'Aspects of winter 437 mountaineering in the Norwegian letter from Nanga Parbat, 60 130 Arctic', 60 276 as a climber, 63 218, 221 Negruni Range (Andes): ascs. in, port., 60 120, 121,6252-3 68221,222 Mummery, Mrs A. F.: port., 60 121 ill., 68 224 Munjan Pass: ascs. from, 72 122 Nehru Institute of Mountaineering: Munos Gamero Peninsula: visited, foundation of, 7X148 67267 Neill, J.: note: climbs in Wales, 65 103, Murallon, Cerro (Patagonia): summit 67173 ridge reached, 67 257 his books: Selected Climbs in the ill., 67 251 Pennine Alps, 67 376 Murray, A. E.: obit., 68170 (with T. Jones) Snowdon South, Murray, A. G.: obit., 63 238 7x 336 Murray, G. W.: 'How the hangman Nelson, M.: 'Astray in the Andes', lost his drop', 66 85 69 217 his book: Dare me to the Desert, 73 126 Nelson, P. S.: obit., 64 104 obit. & port., 7x 348 Nepal: Scottish expedition, 1952,59417 Murray, W. H.: Tyson's expedition: 1953,59421 his books: The Scottish Himalayan to West, 1961, 6x 120 Expedition, 59 85 1964,70254 The Story of Everest, 59 220 ban on mountaineering expeditions Highland Landscape, 67 375 to, 70329 Mountaineering in Scotland, 68 157 see also p 6I below (with J. E. B. Wright) The Craft of Nesthorn: Climbing, 70 172 ascs.: by SE ridge, 59 208, 345 Mustagh (Swat): by NW ridge, 7x 215 by N face: 2nd, 6x 208 Mustagh Ata: 1Stasc., 6x 549, 6478 3rd, 65 222 asc. by Chinese women, 64 258 4th, 67 158 Muztagh Tower: 1Stasc., 6x 253 Nettleton, C. W.: obit., 68 170 2nd asc., 6x 396 Nevada, Sierra (Spain): winter ill., from SE, 6x 252 expedition to, 68 61 from SW, 6x 253 Nevada, Sierra (U.S.A.): ascs. in, E summit, 6x 261 69298 Myth: an Antarctic, 65 236 new ascs. in, 73 274 Nevis, Ben: annual race, 68136 NAEss,A.: 'Some ethical considerations Newby, P.: 'Journey to the Blue Valley', with a view to mountaineering in 7265 Norway', 73 230 New Guinea: expedition to, 66 394, Naismith, W. W.: his book: (with E. W. 6878 Hodge) The Islands of Scotland Newton, H. E.: note: A. C. Graham, (excluding Skye), 59 101 63127 Nakao, S.: his book: Living Himalayan obit., 67 382 Flowers, 7X 180 Newton, Mt (Alaska): 1Stasc., 70 332 Nalumasortoq: ill., 68 256-7 Newton, Mt (Spitsbergen): asc., 66 167 o 37

New Zealand: air survey of Southern Noyce, C. W. F.: his books: Alps, 59442, 60 365 The Gods are Angry, 63 143 early climbs in, 62 75 The Springs of Adventure, 63 266 conditions in, 6275 Climbing the Fish's Tail, 64 139 notes, 60 143, 391,61 399,63 135, (with G Sutton) Samson: The Life 264,64251,65249,66 393, 67 366, and Writings of Menlove 68323,69 300, 70 334, 71319, Edwards, 65 253 72334,73275 Poems,66173 see also p 63 below (with K. Lukan) The Alps, 66407 Ngojumba Ri: To the Unknown Mountain, 67191 1st asc.: 70 330, 73 lIS They Survived, 68 143 correct date of, 72 141 The Climber's Fireside Book, 70169 il1.,73 23 death, 67 342 Nicholas Nickleby: quotation from, obit. & port., 67 384 69 181 Numbur: 1st asc., 68 306 Nicol, H. G.: 'The North face of Mount Nun Kun: 1st asc., 59 216,341 Kenya and other climbs', 69 81 Niinlist, H.: his book: Spitsbergen, Nilgiri: 1st asc. of N Peak, 68 139 71330 il1.,59 303 Nup La: 1st cr., 59 14 Nilkanta: : 1st asc., 66 209 1st asc.: 66 390 ill., 66 212 disputed, 68 139,69 145 Ninashhanca: attempts, 69 lIO OBELISKS,PASSOF THE:cr., 7°312, Nobaisum Zorn: 1st asc., 73 89 71246 Nock, P.: his book: Rock Climbing, Oberlin, J. C.: 'Invitation to the Andes', 68334 60 69 Noelting, F. A. M.: obit., 70 370 Obispo: see Altar : see P 55 below O'Brien, E.: obit., 73 106 North American notes: 65 251, 67 355, Ocshapalca: attempt, 67 166 68319,69 297, 70 331, 71316, 1st complete asc., 71 138 72 329, 73 268 Odell, N. E.: 'Air survey of Southern Norton, E. F.: obit. & port., 60157 Alps', 59 442 Norway: ascs. in, 67 338, 68 291 'Mount Ruapehu, New Zealand', heights of highest mountains in, 60 108 67347 'Lho La', 60 132 ethical considerations re mountain- 'The Southern Alps from end to end', eering in, 73 230 60 365 see also p 54 below notes: Golden Jubilee of the Norsk Noshaq: Tindeklub, 63 262 ascs.: 1st and 2nd, 66 244 China and the Tibetan frontier 3rd,69 124 claims, 65 238 1st of W Peak, 69 124 Ben Nevis race, 68 136 ill., S ridge, 66 244-5 Kolahoi Northern glacier, 68138 & Kuh-e-Mandaras, 71 212-13 the ice-axe found on Everest in Nowill, S. E. P.: 'Sat Dag, Hakkari, 1933,68141 1966',72 II7 tenth anniversary of the first ascent Noyce, C. W. F.: 'Climbing the Fish's of Everest, 69 142 Tail', 62 II3 Kingspitz, 69 290 'Nordwands for the ageing', 65 27 supposed Tibetan name of 'Ascent of Trivor', 66 9 Everest, 69 290 'Climbing solo in the High Atlas', a Canadian centenary, 72142 6765 Ogilvie, I. H.: 'Crozzon di Brenta', his books: (with E. C. Pyatt) British 67275 Crags and Climbers, 59 101 O'Higgins, Cerro: 1st asc., 65 242 , 60 183 O'Higgins gJ.: description of, 65 170 (with G. W. Young & G. Sutton) Ojeda, Pic (Colombia): by S ridge, Snowdon Biography, 61561 62179 Ojos del Salado: 2nd & 3rd ascs., 61397 Paine, Cordillera de!: expeditions to, height, 61 549 61 398,67 15°,73 143 Oker Gorge (Harz Mountains): guide to ascs.: rock climbs, 65 237 North Tower: 1st, 63 259 Oksfjord Peninsula: ases. in, 61 205 2nd & 3rd, 68 186 Olan, L': 1st asc. of NW wall of N Central Tower: 1st, 68124, 179 summit, 61 542 2nd, 68 124, 186 2nd asc., 72132 South Tower: 1st, 68 186 1st winter asc. by Devies-Gervasutti Paine Grande: Central summit: spur, 65 222 1st, 61398 solo ase., 72 132 South summit: 1st, 61 398 Oldham, J. B.: obit., 68172 Principal summit: 1st, 63 259 01 Doinyo Lengai (Africa): ascs., 71 323 future prospects in, 73 153 eruption, 72 336 list of principal 1st ascs. in, 73 157 ill·,72307 ill., 67 150 Old records: 72 323 from E, 68 192 Olga, Mt (Australia): description of, from W, 68 192-3 67318 Paine Grande, 68 192-3 ill., 67 314-15 Palacio del Inca: ruins of, 6993 Oliver, G.: his book: (with L. J. Sutton) Palcaraju: attempts, 65 220 Scafell Group, 73 291 2nd asc., 70 124 Olsen, J.: his book: up to Pallin, H. N.: obit., 59 338 Hell, 68 158 Palomares, Nevado: 1st & 2nd ascs., One hundred years ago: 62 177,63253, 71 139 64237,65229,66378,67343,68297, Palomo, EI.: asc., 65 55 69282,70320,71 307,72320,73255 Palii, Piz: 1st asc., 61545 Orizaba, Pico de: see Citlatepetl E Peak: 1st authentic asc., 6349 Orobian Alps: ascs. & passages in, 66 accident, 64 122 155 Pamirs: search for Abominable Snowman Osborne, A. W.: obit., 73136 in, 65 99 Osler, J. A.: obit., 59 84 proposed expedition to, 66 391 Osmaston, H. A.: 'Arnie! and Rwot', British-Soviet expedition, 1962, 69228 6890,243 his book (with D. Pasteur): Guide to medallions for members of, 68 301 Rock Climbs in Uganda, 69 312 Austrian expedition, 1967,7325 Ossau, Grand Pic d': 1st asc. by S Panaio Toupa: asc., 6158 buttress, 64 268 Pangbuk: 2nd asc., 6158 Oughton, F.: obit., 7314° Pangnirtung Pass: ill., 67 1°3 Oulton, E. V.: obit., 70187 Papsura: reece, 71 244 Ovchinnikov, A.: (with E. Gippenreiter) 1st asc., 72 315, 73 158 U.S.S.R. notes, 1959-63, 69 293 ill., 72 306-7 from W, 71 244-5 PACHANTA:1st asc., 64 40 & Dharmsura, 73156-7 Packe, Charles: note on, & port., 65 80 from Camp 1,73 157 Padre Eterno (Andes): attempt, 70 243 Paradis, Grand: 1st winter asc. by NW Paget, Mt (South Georgia): 1st asc. of face, 62 178 W Peak, 66 166, 67 226 asc., 67 221 1st asc. of highest peak, 70 125, 313 by NW face, 72 319 Paget-Tomlinson, E. E.: obit., 59 213 ill., 59 202-3 Paglia Orba: 1st asc. by NW face, 67 152 Parchamo: 1st asc., 6156 ill., 72 96 Parehola: asc., 60 262 Pai Chin-Hsiao: 'The ascent of Amne Paredones group: ill., 64 233 Machin', 66 274 Parker brothers: their attempts on the Pain de Sucre: by N face, 60 374 Matterhorn, 68 285 Pain de Sucre, Col du: reached from NE, Parquet, Rochers du: by E face super- 59461,60171 direct, 64270 cr., 60 374 climbs on, 70 252 P 39

Parry, C. W.: obit., 65 268 Peak VI (Barun valley): ill., 60 233 Pasang Lama: & Chomolhari, 73 115 Peak 19,275 ft (Cordillera Blanca): ill., Pascoe, J.: 6072-3 his books: Land Uplifted High, 59 96 Peak 5507 (S Georgia): ill., 61 468 Mr. Explorer Douglas, 63 153 Pearce, J. : obit., 59 79 Great Days in New Zealand Pegasus Peak (Alaska): asc., 62130 Mountaineering, 64 138 Peigne, Aig. du: by N ridge, 5927, Great Davs in New Zealand 60371,61540,63246,64261, Exploration, 65, 257 70298 Pasteur, C. H.: 'At the Montanvert in Pelechuco Huaracha: 1st asc., 65 88,176 the eighteen-nineties', 63 216 Pelle, la (Vercors): byW face, 70 316 obit. & port., 60 406 Pellissier, Camillo: death, 71314 Pasteur, D.: 'An expedition to the Emin Pelvoux, Mt: and Gessi area on Ruwenzori', ascs.: 1st, 59464 69191 2nd winter, 59462 East African notes, 65 243, 67 361, Penhall, W.: port., 7014-15 68326, 69 302, 70 336, 73 276 Penitentes, Cordillera de los: ascs. in, his book: (with H. A. Osmaston) 61540 Guide to Rock Climbs in Uganda, Pentedhaktilos: E-W tr., 60 370 69 312 Pepper, L. R.: 'Some climbs on the Pasteur, H. W.: port., 60 406 South face of Mont Blanc', 6665 Pasteur, M.: port., 60 406 Perouse, la (New Zealand): 1st asc. by Patagonia: ascs. in, 63 259 S ridge, 65 250 expeditions to, 65 158, 68230,7393, Perouse, la (N America): asc., 65 251 143, 186 Perren, Bernard: death, 66 163 see also p 57 below Perren, Peter: port., 6234 Patagonian ice-cap: cr., 61271,67353, Perrons, Les: by NW face, 66154 69 183 Perseverance, Aig. de la: by NE ridge, journey over, 67 250 60168 Patey, T. W.: 'Post-war winter moun- Personality: and climbing, 73167 taineering in Scotland', 65 186 Peru: see P 56 below port., 63 165 Peruvian notes: 70 144 Patriot, Pik (Pamir): asc., 68 95, 98 Pesciora, Passo Superiore di: 1st cr., ill., 68 94-5 59456 Patterson, G. N.: his book: Tibetan Pethangtse: 1st asc., 59462,60233 Journey, 59478 Petrig, Cesar: death, 70 325 Pause, W.: his book: Salute the Pettigrew, R.: 'The Derbyshire Mountains, 68 158 Himalayan expedition, 1961', Pave, Le: by S face, 60 374 67323,6852 Paynter, T.: his book: The Ski and the 'The ascent of Kulu Pumori', 70 74 Mountain, 60 194 'Across the Sara Umga La', 71 236 Payot, Frederic: biographical note, 'Bruce's Solang Weisshorn', 72 201 7°2°3 'Papsura climbed', 73158 Peacock, J. D. C.: 'Sandhurst in Peuterey, Aig. Noire de: Greenland, 1966',7245 ascs.: 'Sukkertoppen Wedding Cake: The by S ridge, 59 30, 60 371, 61 541 A.M.A. expedition, 1967',73 234 by W face, 60 371 Peacocke, T. A. H.: 'The Alpine Club 1st winter, 72 322 Centenary dinner at Zermatt', 1st by N ridge, 61 541 6351 by E ridge, 64 203 'A first visit to the New Zealand tr., 61 472 Alps', 72 252 accident, 64 248 note: Zermatt museum, 64 130 ill., & Fauteuil des Allemands, 59 24-5 his book: Mountaineering, 59 365, 498 S ridge from near Gamba hut, Peak, A (Huagaruncho massif): 1st asc., 5924-5 61446 upper portion of S ridge, 59 25 Peak 3 (Yukon): 1st asc., 73 21 Brenva face, 61 472 4° P

Peuterey, Aig. Noire de: Plan, Aig. du: from Col de la Fourche, 6670 by E ridge, 60 372 from E, showing S ridge, 66 268-9 by W face, 67 216 & Aig. Blanche, with Fresnay g\., 1st asc. by W eperon, 70 315 66269 Plateau Peak (Hindu Kush): 1st asc., from below Pta Gugliermina, 66 272 7321 I Pfann, Hans: death, 63 257 Plattischen Pass: 1st tourist cr., 59457 Phillips, Mrs: death, 60 178 Pleydell-Bouverie, B: obit., 71 196 Phillips, T. B. H.: 'The Grand Traverse Pobeda, Pik: 1st asc., 63 258 of Mount Kenya, 1964',70294 Poincenot, Aig.: 1st asc., 67 236 Phillpotts, J. S.: biographical notes, ill., 67 238-9, 239 63 123 Pt 16,800 ft (Kulu): 1st asc., 71 247 Phirtse La: cr., 64 87 Pt 2 1,760 ft (Bara Shigri): possibilities Photography: a century of mountain, of asc., 70 77 62 157 Pt 18,200 ft (Bara Shigri): asc., 7078 wide base stereoscopic, 72 95 Pt 2140 m (Greenland): asc., 72 53 Phrulrang (Nepal): asc., 69125 Pt 16,800 ft (Kulu): asc., 70 3II Phurbi Chyachu: ill., 61 60-1 Pokalde (Nepal): 1st asc., 59 IIO, 139 Piacenza, M.: obit., 65 228 : mountaineering clubs in, 67 161 Piaz, T.: his book: Le Diable des mountaineering in, 72 103 Dolomites, 69 3 II visit to Britain by mountaineers from, Pichincha: note re 1st asc., 68 302 72136 Pickard, R.: obit., 5979 Polleras, Cerro: attempt, 61 540 Pictures: Alpine, 64 129 Pollinger, Alexander: death, 59 345, 459 Pier Giorgio (Patagonia): 1st asc., 69 126 Polyakov, A.: 'Conquest of first 7000 Pierre, B.: 'Le Saicantay et la Cordillera metre peak', 63 203 de Vilcabamba', 59 307 'The first ascent and first traverse of 'The mountams of Elburz', 61 63 Victory Peak', 64 74 his books: La Conquete du Salcantay, Pontresina: early expeditions from, 63 44 59357 Popocatepetl: asc., 70 52 Une Montagne nommee Nun Kun, ill., from Ixtaccihautl, 70 54-5 59472 crater of, 70 55 Pierre Joseph, Pte Superieure de: by NE Portalet, Petit Clocher du: 1st asc. by couloir, 61 542 NE face, 63 246 Pigou, A. C.: obit., 64 289 Portcullis II (Karakoram): attempt, 67 82 Pilier d' Angle, Grand: 2nd asc. by E Porter, C. R.: obit., 67 391 face, 70 317 Porter, E.: his book: The Place No One Pilkington, L. & P.: port., 62 52-3 Knew, 70 171 Pilley, D.: her book: Climbing Days, Porter, H. E. L.: 'After the Matterhorn, 71 183 1865-80',6239 Pimu: asc., 6156 'Memories', 67 213 Pingero (Himalaya): asc., 60 60 notes: A. C. Graham, 63128 Pinggera, Hans Sepp: death, 68 300 the Hermitage, 63 129 Pinnacle (Hindu Kush): asc., 72 70 Potocki, J.: death, 72 123 Pinnacle Peak (Kanjiroba Himal): 1st Poulet, G.: 'Aconcagua, face Sud: asc., 67 351 l'assaut', 60 20 Pischinger, R.: 'The first ascent of his book: (with R. Ferlet) Aconcagua, Momhil Sar', 70 69 South Face, 61415 Pisco (Andes): asc., 69 90 Pranavananda, S.: 'The Abominable ill., from Huandoy, 60 82 Snowman', 61 IIO from below col to "V, 69 94-5 Pra Sec, Aigs. de: by S ridge, 60 165 Pitons, ice-: 1st use in the Alps, 72 138 Predigstuhl: by W face, 63 120,70249 Pivano, C.: obit., 68 356 Press, the: & mountaineering, 66159 Placidus II Spescha: life & climbs, Preuss, P.: & artificial climbing, 68 299 68205 Price, J. S.: obit., 64 293 Plan, Aig. du: by N face, 60 371, 61 541, Pride and Prejudice: quotation from, 64200 68362 R 41

Prince Charles Mts: location, 61214 Pyramid (Pt 6778 m Hindu Kush): 2nd Pritchard, H. J. M.: obit., 65 268 asc., 73 89 Proboscis, Mt (Canada): by SE face, Pyrenees: see P 54 below 69298 Prusik, K.: death, 67 158 QAZI-DEHVALLEY:ascs. from, 72 123 Pryce, H. L.: obit., 71 196 Qioqe Peninsula (Greenland): expedition Pucahirca North: 1st asc., 61201 to, 72128 ill., from Punta Union Pass, 69 94-5 ill., 73 62-3 from Quitaraju, 69213 Queen Mary, Mt (St Elias range): 1st Pucapuca: asc. of peak immediately S of, asc., 67 358 6952 Quitaraju: asc., 65 221, 69226 Pucaranra: by NE ridge, 65 220 ill., 69 212-13 Pudding Peak (Swat): tr., 70 210 Qungur: Puerta de Yanama (Andes): asc., 69 55 1st asc.: 61 549 Pugh, L. G. C.: 'Some effects of high description of, 62 183 altitude on man', 61 507 Quota IGM: proposed change of name, Pulpit (Coast Range): asc., 71300 Pumadablam: asc., 66 349 69 135 Pumasillo: 1st asc., 63 9 attempt, 69 46 RACH-E-DARos: 1st asc., 66 248 explorations NE of, 69 47 Rakaposhi: attempts, 59462, 6048, ill., W face, 63 14 61449 from Cabeza Blanca, 69 46-7 1st asc., 63159 Pumori: attempt, 60 58 ill., summit pyramid & Monk's Head, accident, 67 169 6048 1st asc., 67 351 from W, 61 450, 63 164 Punjab Himalaya: ascs. in, 69124 from foot of SW spur, 61 457 Punta Hoft, Cerro (Chile): 1st asc., Rakpa Peak: attempt, 66 349 67353 Ramchukor Peak: 1st asc., 70 311, Punta Union Pass (Andes): cr., 69 92 71242 Puntiagudo, Nevado (Picacho): location Ramgul Pass: cr., 69252 & history, 66 164 Rana, Maharajah Sir J. S. J. B.: death, ill., 65220 5986 Punzones Range (Andes): 1st asc. of Rapiu La: origin of name, 64 242 highest peak of, 65 58 Rappels: 66 365,367 Purcell Range: ascs. in, 6518 Rasac, Nevado: 3rd asc., 71151 Purtscheller, Aig.: by W face, 63 246 4th asc., 72146 Putha Hiunchuli: 1st asc., 60 254 1st asc., of Central Peak, 72 146 ill., from head of Kaya Khola, 60 255 Rassemblement International from above Camp II, 68 208-9 d'Alpinistes: 70 318 Pyatt, E. C.: Rast Darrah (Hindu Kush): 1st asc., his books: (with C. W. F. Noyce) 7272 British Crags and Climbers, 59 101 ill., 72 62-3 (with R. W. Clark) Mountaineering Rataban: asc., 60 260 in Britain, 64 275 Ratang Tower: ase., 61 461 Where to Climb in the British Isles, Rata Pahar: attempt, 60 260 66 175 Ratz, Mt (Coast Range): 1st ase., 71 Mountains of Britain, 71 338 297 Pye, D. R.: obit., 65 269 2nd, 71 299 Pyramid (Alaska): asc., 72115 Rausch, S.: 'Geralan Chitral expedi- Pyramid, the: tion, 1965',71215 ilL, from plateau between East Ravanel, Aig.: ase., 61 78 Haundoy & Pisco, 60 72-3 ill., 61 72-3 from Huandoy, 6082 Ravanel, Camille: death, 70 324 (Swat): asc., 70 21 I Ravelli, F.: port., 59 299 Pyramid Peak (Himalaya): 1st asc., Rawiez, S.: his book: The Long Walk, 60386 61419 42 R

Rawlinson, A. K.: 'Three Ryan- Risch, Walter: death, 71310 Lochmatter climbs', 59 65 Roberts, A. B.: obit., 73 299 'Crescendo', 1939-56',6298 Roberts, A. R.: his book: (with others) 'The training of Val d'Aosta guides', Himalayan Holiday, 60425 70262 Roberts, D.: 'The West face of Mount 'The Alpine Club and the Alpine Huntington', 7115 Climbing Group', 72 197 Roberts, E. E.: obit., 65 227 notes: tenth anniversary of the first Roberts, J. O. M.: 'Round about ascent of Everest, 68 303 Dhaulagiri', 60 248 Camillo Pellissier, 71 314 'Annapurna 11,1960',65143 new type of ice-axe, 73 265 'Dhaula Himal', 68 188 Real, Cordillera (Bolivia): general 'Transport and Sherpas on Mount description, 64 44 Everest, 1963',68237 mountains & mountaineering, 6446 'With the Royal Air Force on list of 1st ascs. in, 6449 Dhaulagiri IV', 71 75 bibliography, 64 52 notes: Fanny, 68138 ascs. in, 72 127 Dhaula Himal, 73 II3 expedition to, 1966, 72 292 Roberts, W. M.: obit., 59 339 peaks climbed by, 72 302 Robertson, Rev James: biographical ill., 72 290-1 note, 70 203 Rebuffat, G.: Robson, Mt: his books: Etoiles et Tempetes (Six ascs.: 67 359 Faces Nord), 59474 by N face, 69 298 Le Metier de Guide, 60 293 1st winter, 71 318 Mont Blanc to Everest, 61 417 Roc, Aig. du: tr., 63 246 Starlight and Storm, 61 421 Rocallosa, Cima: asc., 69 49 Mont Blanc, Jardin Feerique, 68 329 Roch, A.: 'The Swiss Everest expedi- On Snow and Rock, 69160 tion-Spring 1952', 59 I Cervin-Cime Exemplaire, 70 350 'Dhaulagiri, 1953',59302 Men and the Matterhorn, 72 344 'An approach to the mechanism of Recce Peak (Andes): asc., 66 151 avalanche release', 70 57 Redondo (Andes): 2nd asc., 6945 'How to estimate avalanche danger', Red Ridge (W okkpash): 1St asc., 66 49 7287 Reid, I. C.: his book (editor): Guide his book: Everest, I952, 5991 Book to Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro, : expedition to, 65 237 69161 ascs. in Northern, 67 359 Reiss, E.: 'Old climbs and new in the ascs. in Canadian, 68 321, 73 274 Bernese Oberland', 72 289 Rogers, N. A. J.: 'Cordee Mariee', 70 297 Republique, Aig. de la: asc., 66152 Roger-Smith, H. R.: obit., 61199 Requin, Capucin du: by NE face, Rohtang La: cr., 59 289, 7075 66152 Roiss, H.: 'The first ascent of Requin, Dent du: asc., 61541,7239 Haramosh', 64 12 Rescue charges: Alpine, 65 97 death, 64 244, 65 14 Revelation Mts (Alaska): ascs. in, 73 270 Rolleston, L. W.: obit., 68175 Revolution, Pic de la (Pamirs): 1st asc., port., 68 I II 60 383 Rolleston, Mt: accident, 71 319 Richard, C.: her book: Climbing Blind, asc., 72 253 71338 ill., 72 258 Rickmers, W. R.: obit., 70 372 Rolwaling: ill., peaks climbed from, 59 Riddell, J.: 418-19 his books: The Ski Runs of Roncagli: ill., 68 232-3 Switzerland,63 148 Rondoy: 1st asc., 68 303, 69 II3 The Ski Runs of Austria, 64 144 recce, 69 108 Right Guardian (Pamirs): asc., 73 28 attempts, 69 IIO, III Rimpfischhorn: asc., 65 217 accident, 69 II 3 Ripimu La: cr., 6158 ill.,69 IIO Ripimu valley: ill., ice peak of, 61 56-7 Rooke, N.: obit., 59452 S 43

Roper, S.: his book: A Climber's Guide Russell, Count Henry: & the Vignemale, to the Yosemite Valley, 70 172 6580 Rosa, Mte: port., 65 81 Dufourspitze: Russell, Mt (Alaska): attempt, 67 357 1st ase., 60 377 1st asc., 68 320 Centenary celebration, 60 397 attempt by E ridge, 72 77 ski asc., 61 84 ill., 72 63 by Marinelli Couloir, 62 176 Russia: mountaineering in, 59 459, 1st winter ase. by E face, 70 326 61310,62107,63203,69293, Nordend: 73120 Santa Caterinagrat: ase., 59 24, 68 7000 m peaks of, 73 259 1st ase., 60169 Ruttledge, H.: obit., 67 393 1st winter ase., 72 322 Ruwenzori: by Brioschi route on Maeugnaga Alexandra Peak: W face by via face, 59 203 direttissima, 65 22 I Punta Giordani: Elizabeth Peak: 1st asc., 59 268 Gugliermina's new route on S face, Great Tooth: 1st ase., 61 384 59343,60172 Margherita: 1st asc. by W face, 61 390 Punta Gnifetti: Philip Peak: 1st ase., 59416 mass ase., 66 159 Pte Albert: NE ridge, ase., 61 384 Signalkuppe: named Arete de Grunne, 65 237 1st British ase. by NE face, 64 269 historical notes, 59 407 ill., Cresta di Santa Caterina, 59 69 expeditions, 1937-54,59410 with Lyskamm & Jumeaux from further notes on, 601°5, 178 Rimpfisehhorn, 62 35 accident, 61 214 from Strahlhorn, 65 35 nomenclature, 61 214 Roscoe, D. T.: his book: Llanberis various ascs., 60 375, 61 383, 390, North, ~ 313 551,64255,65243,68326,69193, Roseg, Piz: early attempts & 1st ase., 73276 6344-5 new map of, 64 60, 256, 67 363 by NE face, 68 125 heights in, 65 98 winter ase. by, 64 247 guide book to, 67 347,364 Roseg, Porta da: 1st attempt on, 60 302 expedition to Emin & Gessi area, 69 Ross, D. B.: obit., 67 392 191 Ross, K. F.: ' (East Peak)', depth of lac de la Lune, ~ 197 6454 problems in, 69 302 Rosso, Cima di: ase., 64 262 ill. : Rosso, Mte: by N ridge, 64 262 Stanley Group from Congo side, Rothery, S.: note: climbs in Ireland, 59272 67178 N portion of, 60106 Rothorn, Brienzer: cable railway panorama from Ridge Camp, 59274 proposed, 65 234 Margherita Peak from NNE, 59 408 Rothorn, Zinal: by E face direct, 61 542 Mt Baker from Stuhlmann Pass, Rototaev, P.: 'Soviet mountaineering 59408 in 1966',73120 from above Scott Elliott Pass, Royal family, the British: and 59409 mountaineering, 59 278, 458 Alexandra: W face, 65 221 Ruapehu, Mt: ase., 60 108 E side of Speke from Gessi, 69 196-7 Rubenson, C. W.: obit., 66 184 panorama of Mt Gessi from Mt Rudolf, Mt: by W wall, 61 381 Emin, 69 196-7 Rumbold, T. A.: note: T. G. Longstaff, Rwot (Uganda): ase., 68 327, 69 231 70133 ill., 69 228-9, 229 Rumea Peaks (Andes): ases., 68 222 Ryan, M. F.: obit., 59 80 Rundall, J. W.: obit., 66183 Runge, J. C. H.: obit. & port., 61 533 Sacsarayoe: attempts, 69 45, 52 Ruskin, J.: his diaries reviewed, 61 560, 1st asc., ~ 59 63151 ill., ~ 46--'7 4 44 S

Sad Istragh (Hindu Kush): 1st asc., Santi, M.: port., 59 299 72 123 San Valentin, Mt: 1st asc., 59432 Saglio, S.: his book: Da Rifugio a iII., 59 432 Rijugio: Alpi Retiche Meridionali, Saraghrar: attempts, 64 II6, 72328 60196 accident,64 II6 Sahara: expedition to, 63131 1st asc., 65 9°,151 St Bernard Pass, Great: opening of ill., 65 152, 153 road tunnel, 66 380 Sara Umga La: cr., 70 3II St Elias, Mt: attempt, 69 298, 72 332 asc. to, 71 244 ascs., 70 33 I Sarmiento, Mt: 1st asc., 61390 4th asc. & 1st by NW ridge, 71316 Sarpy, A. U.: obit., 61 371 ill., 64 55 Saser Kangri: attempt, 61 396 St George Peak (Bhutan): 1St asc., 70 Sassera, Bochetta di: 1st cr., 69 281 113 Sasso d'Italia, Gran: asc., 69 34 St Gotthard tunnel: 75th anniversary Sasso Moro: 1st asc. by SE face, 69 281 of, 62 179 Sat Dag Range (Turkey): ascs. in, 71 Saipal: 1st asc., 69 125 3°4,72117 Salbitschijen: iII., summits of, 71 158 S ridge: note on, 59 87 virgin summit climbed in 1966, asc. by, 59208 72 II 0-1 I Saicantay: history & 1st asc., 59 309 Saussois: climbs in, 70 253 maps of, 59 496 : iII., 7130-1 2nd asc., 61 391 Sayre, W. W.: his book: Four Against 1st asc. by NE ridge, 71 138 Everest, 70 345 ill., 59 310, 311 Scalone, 10: by N ridge & tr., 64 262 Salmon, F. J.: 'From a diary of 1907', Scarr, J.: her book: Four Miles High, 66310 72171 note: the tale of an umbrella, 65 95 Sceptre (Karakoram): asc., 67 8 I Saltoro: expedition to, 1960, 66 147 Schallihorn: 1st asc. from the SchaIIi- Sahoro Kangri: 1st asc., 68 122,6973 joch, 61 207 iII., from ridge at head of Lolofond Schell, H.: 'Akher Chioh (7020 m)', gl.,63 188 72225 showing route of 1st asc., 69 77 Schermberg: 1st winter asc. by N face, from Advanced Base Camp, 69 78 70286 Sanford, Mt: 1st asc. by S ridge, 73 271 Schjelderup, F.: obit. & port., 60 409 Sanseverino, J. : note: Schmid, Franz & Toni: port., 7°14-15 centenaries in 1954,59344 Schomberg, R. C. F.: obit., 63 132 1955,60173 Schreckhorn: 2nd asc., 59 53 1956,61 391 iII., 61 336-7 Sans Nom, Aig.: by NW spur, 69 132 Schuster, Lord: obit. & port., 61 371 Sans Nom, Pic (Chamonix): 1st asc. by Schwarzsee hotel: destroyed by fire, NW face, 73 14 63 129 ill., 73 14-15 SchweizerIand: ill., 72 210-II Sans Nom, Pic (Dauphine): by NW Sciora di Fuori: asc., 66156 couloir, 60 375 Scioretta, Colle delia: 1st recorded cr., monograph on, 61 87 69280 1st asc. by NW face, 72 318 Scotes, Pizzo di: 1st asc. by E face, ill. , 61 88-9 69280 Santa Cruz, Nevado: 2nd asc., 65 221 Scotland: North-west Highlands of, ill., 72 30-1 65 191 Santa Marta range (Colombia): expedition Lochnagar & the Cairngorms, 65 189 to, 61550 post-war climbing in, 65 186 ascs. in, 63 133 Ben Nevis, 65191 peaks & glaciers, 63 209 annual race on, 68 136 valleys, 63 21 I Scottish Mountaineering Club: book: history of mountaineering in, 63 212 Climbers' Guide to the Cuillin of Skye, bibliography, 63 215 63144 S 45

Scramblers Peak (Hindu Kush): asc., Shipton, E. E.: 727° 'Further travels in Patagonia and Season: an Alpine, 1958,64119 Tierra del Fuego', 68 230 Seattle, Mt: ase., 72 331 'Crossing the North Patagonian Seaver, G.: his book: Francis ice-cap', 69 183 Younghusband: Explorer and Mystic, 'Some reflections on modern S9221 climbing', 72 15 Sebastopol, Mt (N.Z.): asc., 72 256 'A visit to Alaska', 72 76 Sedgwick, H. J.: obit. & port., 63 114 his books: The Mount Everest Sefton, Mt: ascs., 7°334 Reconnaissance Expedition, Seigne, Col de la: cr., 66 80 I95I, S991 Seiler, F.: obit., 72 191 Land of Tempest: Travels in Selkirks: ascs. in, 71 318 Patagonia, I958-I96z, 68 331 Sella, Piz: asc., 63 46 Mountain Conquest, 71 329 Serio, Passo del: cr., 66155,386 Shisha Pangma: Seylaz, L.: death, 69 135 1st asc., 69 211 Shachaur (Hindu Kush): 1st asc., 70 120 route of, 70138 ill., 71212-13 ill., 69 212 Sharp, F. C.: obit., 72 357 Shkara: Sharpe, P. H.: obit., 61 534 ascs.: 3rd by N buttress, 63 247 Sharpe, W. S.: obit. & port., 61 376 4th, 64259 Shchurovsky, Pik: by SE ridge, 64 118 by S face, 64 246 by NE face, 67 152 ill., NNE face, 72 62 Shebbeare, E. 0.: obit., 69 327 W summit & shoulder of W ridge, Sheila Peaks (Himalaya): ascs., 70123 7262-3 Shekuntla Tibba (Kulu): 1st asc., 72 210 Shkhelda: tr., 67 54 Sherpas: awarded 'Tiger' badge, 60 176 3rd W peak by N face buttress, 67 152 Sherriff, G.: obit., 73 141 ill.,6756 Shidei, T.: 'The ascent of Sahoro ridge, from W Shkhelda, 67 62 Kangri', 69 73 Shoe Peak: (see Zapato, Nevado) Shield, the (Patagonia): 1st asc., 73154 Sho Ho Dara (Swat): cr., 70207,211 Shih Chan-Chun: 'The second ascent Sialouze, Aig. de: tr., 60 373 of Minya Konka', 63 194 Sici (Baffin Island): asc., 67 103 'Ascent of Muztagh Ata', 6478 Side, A. D. B.: 'Towards Kangchen- 'The conquest of Mount Everest by junga', 60 83 the Chinese mountaineering team', obit., 66 420 66 28 Siegen, J.: his book: The Lotschental: a Shikar Beh: 1st asc., 61 52 Guidefor Tourists, 66175 Shilla: height, 613°3,3°9, 6S 274, Sihuaillusa, Nevado: ase., 68 221 66 389 Silvretta Group: ases. & passages in, Shimilik (Hindu Kush): 1st asc., 73 207 66 155 Shingeik Zom (Hindu Kush): 1st asc., Silberhorn (N.Z.): attempt, 72 259 713°3,7285 Silber horn: 1st ase. by S ridge, S9 54 ill., 72 86 Silbersattel: 1st winter ase. from E, Shingo La: 60171 cr., 64 89 Sim, J. A.: obit. & port., 72 358 ill., & neighbouring peaks, 64 87 Simien Range (Ethiopia): description of, Shipki Pass: ill., 66 341 61344 Shiprock (U.S.A.): by new route, 71318 Simler, Josias: advice to travellers, 62 5 Shipton, E. E.: 'The Imperial College Simler, R. T.: port., 68128 Karakoram expedition, 1957', 63 185 Simplon Pass: proposed road tunnel 'Two visits to the Andes of Southern under, 67 158 Patagonia', 6S 158 Simpson, M.: her book: White Horizons, 'A journey over the Patagonian ice- 72346 cap', 67 250 Singh, G.: 'Three months in Upper 'The Darwin Range: Tierra del Garhwal and adjacent Tibet', Fuego', 67 259 60257 Singh, G.: Smyth, A. J. M.: 'Indian Mount Everest expedition, 'The Royal Air Force Karakoram 1960',66 IS expedition, 1961',6773 his book: The Lure of Everest, 67190 Smythe, A. G.: 'Around Mont Blanc Singing Mountain, the: 72326 in four days', 66 78 Singkar: see Trident 'The East face of the Grand Sirijuani (Andes): asc., 70 240 Capucin', 6790 Sisne Himal: asc. of peak in, 67 128 'The Moose's Tooth', 68 262 Sissone, Mte: asc., 64 262 his book: (with J. Cleare) Rock Siula Chico: 1st asc., 72147 Climbers in Action in Snowdonia, Siula, Nevado: 1st asc., by E face, 69 126 71335 Skagastolstind, Store: Smythe, F. S.: memorial at Zermatt, reminiscences of, 62 151 59216 ill., 62156 & Graham Brown, 72 135 Ski Club of Great Britain: book: port., 62 84-5 Handbook on Ski-Touring and Glacier Snow Dome: attempt, 61 41 Ski-ing, 60 196 Snow Lake: ill., 64176 Ski-mountaineering: photographic Snow Lake Peak: attempt, 64 177 souvenirs of, 59 201 Snowpatch Spire (Bugaboos): asc., 65 22 a defence of, 73 218 1st asc. by S face, 72 333 Skoczylas, A.: his book: Stefano, We ill., 65 22-3 Shall Come Tomorrow, 67 373 Sofridjoo (Caucasus): asc., 63 II7 Skrede, W.: his book: Across the Roof Solang Weisshom: see Hanuman Tibba of the World, 59479 Solari, F.: 'An equipment centenary', Sky-writing: menace of, 65 142 69241 Skye: A. C. members in, 60 382 note: fixed-rope failures, 73 262 opening of Coruisk hut, 64 246 Solo, Cerro (Chile): 2nd asc., 67170 Slaggard, Mt: 1st asc., 65251 Somervell, T. H.: valedictory address, Sleeping-bags: keeping warm in, 72 313 70 I Slesse, Mt (Canada): by N face, 69 298 note: centenary celebrations, tic) 136 Slesser, M.: 'Peru, 1964',70240 Sondre Trolltind: by N face direct, 'In defence of ski-ing', 73 218 73 I, 101 his books: Red Peak, 69161 by N face & E ridge, 73 103 The Andes are Prickly, 71 332 ill., 73 103 Slings: note on nylon, 61 398 Soral Peaks: East: asc., 65 88,177 Slingsby, F. H.: obit., 68 357 West: asc., 65 178 Sloman, H. N. P.: obit., 70 373 ill., E Peak, 65180-1 Smeds, H.: 'The Batu Mountains of the Soray, Pic: 1st asc., 61 391 Bale Plateau, Ethiopia', 64 217 South America: see P 56 below Smillie Peak (S Georgia): ill., 61 469 South American Indian: as a pioneer Smith, D. A.: obit., 66187 Alpinist, 73 81 Smith, G. A.: his book: An Introduction South Georgia: survey, 1955-6,61465 to Mountaineering, 72 350 Shackleton's route re-traced, 70 327 Smith, G. O. H.: obit., 67 203 South Greenland notes: 68 307 Smith, J. A.: her book: Mountaineering, Spaaman (South Georgia): 1st asc., 61 466 60431 Spain: see P 54 below Smith K. C.: 'The Centenary Dinner', Spectorsky, A. G.: his book: (with 6361 F. Iselin) Invitation to Ski-ing, 59 93 obit., 66 188 Spiti: expeditions to, 61 296, 458 Smith, R.: death, 67 342 see also p. 60 below Smith-Barry, T. G. B. F.: obit., 70374 Spitsbergen: expedition to, 1960,66167 port., 70 378 Spranger, J. A.: obit., 73 299 Smyth, A. J. M.: 'The R.A.F. Sri Kailas: 2nd asc., 69 125 Mountaineering Association ex- Staghom, Mt (Alaska): asc., 62127 pedition to Lahoul', 61 45 Stalin, Mt: 1st asc., 63 203 'The Northern approaches of 1st British asc., 67 348 Kinabalu', 63 27 ill., 63 204 T 47

Stalin, Mt (Wokkpash): 1st asc., 66 49 Strutt, E. L.: as editor of the Alpine Stark, E.: her book: (with M. Jackson) Journal, 62 88 Tents in the Clouds, 61 423 Bonacossa's memories of, 70 219 Starker, G.: 'The South wall of the Struve, K. C. P.: obit., 66 378 Dachstein in winter', 66 284 Studer, G.: mountaineering career, Staunings Alps (Greenland): cr. of N 68 210 & Central, 66 250 Studerhorn: 3rd asc. by N face, 65 222 1st exploration of S, 66 254 Styles, S.: Italian expedition to, 69 128, 70 126 his books: Mountains of the Midnight Imperial College expedition to, 69 Sun, 59481 254 Introduction to Mountaineering, location of, 72 141 60429 ill., 66 254-5,260-1, 6C)79,245 Rock and Rope, 72175 Stead, F. B.: obit., 60 160 The Arrow Book of Climbing, 72176 Steel, G. A.: obit., 69 175 Mallory of Everest, 72350 Steele, P. R: 'To Hiunchuli Patan', The Climber's Bedside Book, 73284 68198 Su Alto, Cima: NW face, 8th & 9th 'Perambulators in the land of the ascs., 61 541 Thunder Dragon', 72 264 Sugar Loaf (Himalaya): asc., 65 43 Stefan, W.: 'Distaghil Sar', 66 I Sugartop, Mt (South Georgia): 1st asc., Steiner, Franz: death, 70 324 70314 Stembridge, H. L.: 'A journey through Sugden, F. K.: obit, 72 360 the Cordillera Blanca of Peru', 69 88 Sukarno, Mt (New Guinea): asc., 69 291 Stephen, L.: port., 62134 Sundt, E.: 'Reminiscences of Store Stephenson, R M. : note on, 60 379 Skagastolstind',62 151 Steven, C.: his book: The Island Hills, Supersaxo, Ambros: death, 59459 61229 Sutlej : sources of the, 60 268 Stevenson, E. J.: note on, 60 379 Sutton, G.: Stevenson, V. N.: his book: Cornwall, his books: (with G. W. Young & vol. II, 71 336 C. W. F. Noyce) Snowdon Stewart, L. R: 'The ascent of Cayesh Biography, 61 561 and attempt on the virgin East ridge (with C. W. F. Noyce) Samson: the of Huascaran', 66 199 Life and Writings of Menlove Stikine Group (Alaska): ascs. in, 70 332 Edwards, 65 253 Stillingfleet, B.: memorial tablet to, (with E. Byne) High Peak, 72 167 63125 Swanage: climbs on the cliffs of, 66 299 Stockalper Chliteau: restoration of, Swargarohini (Himalaya): attempt, 65233 69206 Stocken, C. M.: 'Ski touring in the Swat Kohistan: two journeys in, 67 42 Valais', 61 80 asc. of unnamed peak in, 6745 death, 72221 expedition to, 68 251 Stone, J. K.: & the Alps, 72 273,327 climbs in, 70265 port., 72 274 ill., Confusion & Batin Peaks from S, Stornade, Cima delle: 1st winter asc., 70212-13 73254 Swift, Bob: port., 61 456 Storr, A. E.: obit., 60 161 Swiss Everest expedition members: ill., Storsteinfjell massif (Norway): climbs 61244 in, 70 318 Swiss pioneers: achievements in the Stortind: attempt, 60 278 Alps, 68 205 Stoves: for cooking, 68 135 1st ascs. made by, 68 210 Streather, H. R. A.: 'K 2: the third Swiss prints: notes on, 68 212 American Karakoram expedition, Symonds, H. H.: death, 64 128 1953',59391 'Army Mountaineering Association TABLE MOUNTAIN: climbs on, 6C)103 expedition, 1959',6537 Tacul, Aig. du: by SE face, 63119 Stretchers, mountain rescue: used in Tacul, Pyramide du: 1st asc. by NE Britain, 73 223 face, 64 270 Tadaft (Atlas): asc., 67 68 Taylor, P.: his book: Coopers Creek to ill., 67 70 Langtang II, 70 350 Tadat (Atlas): ascs., 67 67 Tazarhart Wall: Tairona Peak (Colombia): by W ridge, ill., from Lepiney hut, 71 31 62 179 N face, 71 260-1 Tairraz, Jean: biographical note, 70204 Tchernine, 0.: her book: The Tairraz, P.: his book: (with R. Abominable Snowman and Company, Frison-Roche) Mont Blanc aux Sept 66410 Valtees,65 115 Techado Negro (Chile): 1st asc., 67 170 Takht-i-Suleiman: asc., 61 64, 70 126 Technique: for beginners, 59 498 Talbot, J. 0.: 'The North-east pillar of Tejada-Flores, L.: 'Games climbers the Wetterhorn', 69 119 play', 73 46 his books: (with R. G. Collomb) Temperatures: low, 63 260 Bernina Alps, 73 285 Temple, Mt (Rockies): by new route on Engelh6rner and Salbitschijen, 73 288 N. face, 72332 Talisker (Coast Range): asc., 71 300 Temple, P.: 'Mountains of the White Tallantire, P.: Arrow', 68 78 his book: Felix Austria (vol. 1),70352 his books: Nawok!, 68 157 vols. II & IV, 72 175 The Sea and the Snow, 72 176 vol. III, 73 285 Tent Peak (Annapurna group): 1st asc., Talung Peak: 1st asc., 69 289 70217,71 153 Tangley, Lord: see Herbert, E. S. 2nd asc., 71 89 (f.n.), 97 Tambu: asc. & tr., 6150 Tent Peak (Coast Range): asc., 71 299 Tam Sur (Peru): 1st asc., 72146 Tenzing: audience of the Pope, 63 213 Taparacu (Andes): 1st asc., 69 219 Terim Shah gl.: explored, 63 190 Tapugiri: asc., 61283 Ternicod, G.: his book: Recueil de Tara Pahar: asc., 61284 Pages Valdotaines,71 179 ill., 61 292 Terray, L.: Tiischhorn: by Teufelsgrat, 59 26 his books: Conquistadors of the Useless, S face, 5th asc., 59461 69158 attempt, 63 92 (with L. Devies) Joies de la ilL, S face, 62 68-9 Montagne, 70 346 Tasman, Mt: (with J. Franco) Bataille pour le ill.: from top of the rocks on Mt Jannu, 71 165 Cook, 72 258-9 (with J. Franco) At Grips with from Pioneer hut, 72 258-9 Jannu, 72 176 Tatra: ascs. in, 68 26,7137,41 death, 71 145 ill., 68 30-1, 71 30-1 Terror, Mt (Antarctica): 1st asc., 64 132 see also p 54 below Tesi Lapcha: cr., 59 14,15,416 Tatum (Alaska): asc., 62 126 ill., 59 420 Taugwalder (Sohn), Peter: Fiihrerbuch Tetnuld: 2nd asc. by N face, 72 324 of, 59436 Teton range: ascs. in, 68321,71318 & Whymper, 65 94 tr. of main chain, 70 333 port., 59440,441,61488-9 Tc!zenas du Montcel, R.: his book: Ce Taugwalder (Vater), Peter: & Whymper, Monde qui n'est pas le notre, 70 340 6594 Thamserku: 1st asc., 7090 his climbing career, 70 26 ilL, & Kangtega from NW, 7094 port., 59 440 from W, 7094-5 Taugwalder, Rudolf: death, 60 170 Thorn, John: Taulliraju: 1st asc., 61 543 his mountaineering career, 65 199 iII., 60 72-3 correction re, 66 161 Taurus mountains: expeditions to, Thomas, E.: obit., 66 190 70127 Thomas, M. B.: 'The Royal Naval Taweche: attempts, 69 25, 28 East Greenland expedition, 1966', ilL, 69 30 7229,212 Taylor, C.: 'Climbs on limestone in the Thompson, D. E.: her book: Climbing Alps', 70 246 with Joseph Georges, 68145 T 49

Thorington, J. Monroe: 'Martin Barry, TirichMir: Quaker microscopist', 59 19 notes on, 73 IIO, 262 'Edmund John Clark, M.D.', 59 264 ill.,66244 'Erasmus Galton and Mont Blanc', Tirich Nord: 1st asc., 71 65 61102 ill., & Tirich Mir, 71 62 'As it was in the beginning', 624 showing N spur & camp sites, 'Bishop Salm's expeditions to the 7162-3 Gross Glockner', 69 244 Tirich West I: 1st asc., 73 250 'James Kent Stone and the Alps', Tirich West IV: 1st asc., 73 89 72273 Tobin, H. W.: obit., 61536 notes: William Windham's 'ice-axe', Tococcapac: asc., 66 151 60380 Tolam Bau gl.: ascs. from, 61 56 J. A. Deluc, 63125 ill., 61 57, 59 requiescat, 64238 Tomlinson, G. J. F.: obit., 68130 Archduke John of Austria, 65 230 Torbet, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc., 70 333 Italian Alps, 1962, 68 132 Toro, El (Venezuela): asc., 67 285 Edmund John Clark, 68 299 Torre, Cerro: attempts, 63 259, 73 94, his book: A Climber's Guide to the 186 Rocky Mountains of Canada, 71 338 1st asc., 64 243 Thorington, Mt: location of, 72 325 ill., group, 73 181 Thornycroft, 0.: obit., 61535 SE ridge, 73 196-7 Tibesti Mountains: ascs. in, 69 268, Tottan Range (Antarctica): attempt on 70126 highest summit, 67 347 Tibet: visit to Western, 60 178, 263 Toubkal (Atlas): ascs., 67 67, 69 Wakefield's journey to, 1929, 66 118, ill., 67 71 325 Tour centenary, a: 68 134 Tichu gl.: ill., panorama from head of, Tour, Col du: cr., 61 80 6851 Tour Ronde: by N face, 60 375, 66 152 Tichy, H.: 'Cho Oyu, 1954',60239 Tour Verte: by new route, 63 II9 Tiefenmattenjoch: attempt, 63 92 Tournelon Blanc: 1st asc. by E face, Tieroko (Tibesti Mountains): note on, 73253 69 268 Towitz Peak (Karakoram): asc., 63188 Tierra del Fuego: see P 57 below Travers-Jackson, G. F.: obit., 69 328 Tila Ka Lahr: ill., 61 50 Travis, G. L.: obit., 64 294 Tilman, H. W.: 'Himalayan apery', Traynard, P. & C.: their book: Alpes 60296 et Neige. IOI Sommets a Ski, 71 176 'Crossing the Patagonian ice-cap', Trench B. F.: obit., 73 137 61271 Trevelyan, G. M.: obit., 67 399 'Mountains of the Crozet Islands', Trident, the (Singkar): 2nd asc., 61 57 66 52 Trident Peak (Kulti gl.): ill., 61 48 and Mischief, 72 144 Trieste, Torre: by W ridge, 68 226 his books: Nepal Himalaya, 59 92 Trifthorn: 1st asc., 61 348 'Mischief' in Patagonia, 63 140 Triglav: a veteran's asc., 64 132 'Mischief' among the Penguins, 67 187 Triolet, Aig. de: by N face, 60 373, Timesguida n Ouanoukrim (Atlas): asc., 61386,66153 6768 1st winter & 1st solo asc. of N face, Tinguiririco: asc., 65 57 71305 Tinzenhorn: 1st asc., 6350 Triolet, Breche de: 1st asc. by N face, Tipping, C. J.: obit., 69 328 65222 Tiquimani (Bolivia): 1st asc., 68 3I 5 Triplex (Yukon): ill., 73 IS Tirich Gol: 1st tr. from, to Lower Tristan da Cunha: asc. of peak on, 61391 Gazikistan gl., 73 90 Trisul: ill., 62135 Tirich Mir: accident, 67 352 Trisul II & III: 1st ascs., 65 246 1st asc. of E Peak, 70122 Trivor: 1st asc., 66 9 2nd asc. of highest peak, 73 250 ill., 66 14 3rd asc., 73 89 Trollryggen: 1st complete circuit of massif, 73 90 from Romsdal, 64 183 50 T

Trollryggen: Ullman, J. R.: 2nd asc., 65 222 his books: Man of Everest, 60 426 1St asc. by N wall, 71 98, 139 Banner in the Sky, 61 230 ilL, & Trolltindene (1931 & 1958 The Age of Mountaineering, 61 426 routes), 64 184 Americans on Everest, 71 163 N wall, 71 78-9 Ulta, Nevado: 1St asc., 67166 Trolltind Ridge: ilL, E wall with Troll· Umbrella: the tale of an, 65 95 tind wall & N face of Sondre Umbu Gyabjen: asc., 59 IIO, 138 Trolltind (routes), 73 14 Underhill, M.: her book: Give me the Trolltind Wall: by British route, 73103 Hills, 61 558 by French direct route, 73 103 Underwood, E. A.: 'The Gran Sasso Tronco, EI (Chile): 1st asc., 65 241 d'ltalia', 69 34 ill., 65 242 United Kingdom: (see British Isles Triibswetter, I: 'The Garmisch notes) Partenkirchen Hindu Kush ex- University Peak (Alaska): 1St asc., 61 201 pedition, 1963',69249 Unsworth, W.: 'Shingeik Zorn: the Smoking his books: Matterhorn Man, 71 182 Mountain', 72 85 Tiger in the Snow, 72 350 Truffaut, R.: his book: From Kenya to Because it is There, 73 280 Kilimanjaro,63147 Upernivik, Horns of: ilL, N face, Tsacra Grande: 1St complete asc., 7362-3 70124 Upernivik Island: expedition to, 73 68 Tsumi La: cr., 70 IIO mountaineering history, 73 68 Tucci, G.: his book: Nepal: the ascs. in, 73 72, 79 Discovery of the Malla, 67 369 Uraccapac: ascs., 66151 Tucker, J. : his book: Kangchenjunga, Urco, Pta (Andes): asc., 70 242 61219 Urgend (Hindu Kush): 1St asc., 69124 Tuckett, F. F.: port., 6217 Uruashraju (Peru): 1St asc., 72146 Tunnels: note on some Alpine, 61 548 Ushba: S Peak: 1St asc. by NW face, Turkey: ascs. in massif S of Coruh 64246 river, 73 253 ilL, 61324 Turl, Mt (Baffin Island): 1St asc., 67102 from above Betsho, 62 59 Turnbull, H. W.: obit., 66 422 from W Shkhelda, 67 62-3 Turpin Peak (Himalaya): 1St asc., 70 Uyeo, S.: 'The ascent of Annapurna 123 South Peak (Ganesh)', 70 213 Twins: ascs.: (Lahoul), 61 49, 51 VAG, BOCCHETTADEL: 1St asc. from N, (Spiti), 61 459 69 280 Tyndall, J.: his grave restored, 72 322 Valais: human nature in the, 60 135 Tyson, J. B.: 'Exploring the Api and ascs. in, 1962,67340 Nampa group, Western Nepal', Valdez gl.: new ascs. from, 65 251 59421 Valette, Pta: by N face, 63121 'Three months in West Nepal', 67120 Valgrande, Passo di: cr., 67 346 Vallina, Bocca delia: 1st cr., 61206 UDRENZOM (Hindu Kush): 1St & 2nd Vallina, Dosson delia: 1St asc., 61 205 ascs., 70 120 Vancouver, Mt: 1St asc. of Border Uganda: ascs. in, 68326 Summit, 73 22 U.I.A.A.: meeting, 1962, 68 132 ill., 73 22 election of new President, 70 135 Vandeleur, C. R. P.: meeting in London, 70 139 note: Himalayan heights and earth- 1966 assembly, 72 138 quakes, 59 88 1967 assembly, 73 II6 Lord Conway and IIlimani, 60172 U.I.A.G.M.: formation of, 71 147 obit., 69 176 UlIa-Kara- Tau: by left part of N face, Van der Stratten, MIle: death, 65 90 67152 Vanis, E.: 'The Bezingi Wall', 72 57 UlIa- Tau-Chana: by left-hand buttress 'Austrian expedition to the Pamirs, of N face, 67 152 1967' 73 25 W 51

Vanoise, Aig. de la: by N face, 63 120 Voroshilov, Mt (Pamir): 1st asc., 65 89 Vatnajokull: tr., 65 98 Vuibe: unfrequented route on the, 59 Venezia, Torre: by Tissi route, 67 34, 455 68226 ascs., 70 300 WAGER,L. R.: 'Mount Everest: the Venezuela: map of the Andes of, 69 122 Chinese photograph', 68 49 Venezue an notes: 68 317 obit. & port., 7I 349 Verghese, B. G.: his book: Himalayan Wainwright, A."': his book: A Pictorial Adventure, 68 157 Guide to the Lakeland Fells, 68 155 Veronica: 1st asc., 6I 391 Wakefield, E. B.: 'A journey to Western Veronica de Urubamba, Cordillera: Tibet, 1929',66 u8, 325 ill., 70 252-3 Waldis, A.: his book: Switzerland: the Verte, Aig.: by Whymper Couloir, 59 324 Traveller's Illustrated Guide, 7I 184 by Sans Nom arete, 59 342 Walker, C. W.: obit., 69 329 1st asc. from Charpoua g\., 60125 Walker, H.: port., 62 17 by couloir Couturier, 60 373, 6I 203, Walker, J. 0.: obit., 73 138 541,64200,69132 Wall, D.: 'The ascent of Rondoy', 69 106 early attempts, 6I 389 his book: Rondoy, 70 344 accident, 69 290 Wallis, R. H.: 'The Royal Naval East 1st winter asc. by Contamine route, Greenland expedition, 1966', 70 327 7229, 212 Vertigo, E1 (Venezuela): asc., 67 284, 337 South Greenland notes, 68 307 Victory Peak (Tien Shan): 1st asc. & Walmsley, J.: 'Masherbrum, 1957', tr., 64 74 63 169 ill., 64 75 'Nuptse', 66 209 Vidinkot and Shosht (Hindu Kush): Walsh, Mt (Yukon): asc., 73 21 description of mountain area between, Ward, M. P.: 'Bugaboo', 6518 73 58 'Himalayan scientific expedition, Viedma, Vulean (Patagonia): description H}60-61', 66343 of,65 167 'The descent from Makalu, 1961, and Vignemale: by N face, 6I 543 some medical aspects of high & Count Henry Russell, 65 80 altitude climbing', 68 II Anne Lister's asc., 73 199 'Bhutan Himal', 70 106 Vileabamba, Cordillera de: cartography, 'Bhutan Himal: some further 59 307 observations', 7I 281 expedition to, 6941 notes: treatment of frost-bite, 7I 309 Vilcanota, Cordillera: ascs. in, 6438, the highest mountain in Bhutan, 72316 72325 ill., 64 38-9 his book: The Mountaineer's Viney, R. M.: 'The Tronchey arete of Companion, 72 160 the Grandes Jorasses', 59 323 Warren, N. S. S.: obit., 72 361 obit. & port., 6I 377 Wathen, R. J.: poem: The waters and Vinson Massif (Antarctica): 1st asc., the wild, 66 134 72128 Watson, H. D. D.: 'Imperial College Viotto, S.: death, 69 291 East Greenland expedition, 1963', Visser, P. C.: obit., 60 412 69253 Vodka: & mountaineering, 65 237 Watson, H. M. D.: death, 69 169 Voillat, A.: obit., 65 94 Watson, W. F.: 'A solo traverse of the von Allmen, Hilti: death, 7I 310 Matterhorn, 1961',6785 von Ficker, H.: death, 63 257 e>bit.,70 188 von Leyden, V.: obit., 69 177 Watzmann: accident, & early ascs., von Humboldt, A.: centenary of his 66 385 death, 64 241 Weather & snow conditions: reports on Vonnegut, B.: note: electrical Alpine, 63 263 observations from mountains, 63 259 Webster, A.: 'A Gervasutti route: the von Tscharner, H. F.: 'Random thoughts South face of the Pointe Guglier- on the Matterhorn', 7038 mina', 73 53 5 • Spelled incorrectly as Wainewright in 68155 52 W

Wedderburn, E. A. M.: his book: Whymper, E.: & engravings for Alpine Climbing on Foot and with Ski, Scrambles, 59 344, 7r. 119 60194 & the Taugwalders, 65 94 Wedderburn, J.: 'The 1965 Scottish & Southend, 70135 Hindu Kush expedition', 7r. 58 a word for, 7r. 111,3°9 Wedderburn, T. M.: obit., 73 300 climbing career, 7r. 118 Wedding Cake (Greenland): 1st asc., knowledge of French, 7r. 121 73238 Lunn's article, 7r. 228 Weir,T.: & the Royal Society, 7r. 308 his books: Camps and Climbs in Arctic port., 6r. 489, 62 17 Norway, 59 356 Wibratte, L.: obit., 60 163 East of Katmandu, 6r. 219 Wichmann Tower (Alaska): asc., 72113 Weisshorn: Wignall, S.: his book: Prisoner in Red Schalligrat (SW ridge): asc. by, 59 70 Tibet, 63 151 early descs., 59 217 Wigner, J. H.: obit., 59 449 attempt, 66 70 Wilcox Peak (Canada): attempt, 59 35 tr., 66 86 Wilerhorn: 1st recorded asc. from NW, by Schalligrat & E ridge, 67 223 73253 ill., from Taschalp, 62 52-3 Wilhelmina, Mt: see Sukarno, Mt. N ridge, W face, S face, E ridge, Wilkinson, D. P.: port., 59440 6268-9 Wilkinson, J.: port., 5944° Weissmies: asc., 65 216 Williams, C.: her book: Zermatt Saga, Wellenkuppe: tr., 59 26 70173 Wellhom: 1st asc., 59 56 Williams, E. S.: note: physiological Wellhom, Klein: by SE face, 70 130 expedition, 66 161 ill., 70 15°-1 Williams, G.: death, 60 376 West, W. C.: obit. & port., 63 116 Wills, A.: port., 62 16 Western, A. E.: obit., 67 204 Wilson, J. G.: 'The Himalayan School- Westmacott, M. H.: 'Everest, 1953. house expedition, 1963', 6g 23 Narrative of the expedition', 59 107 'The Himalayan Schoolhouse expedi- 'Invitation accepted', 6r. 435 tions', 70 226 'Arrigetch', 72 109 Wilson, Maurice: his Mt Everest note: traditional methods of abseiling, attempt, 70 269 73108 Wilson, R. C.: obit., 7r. 197 West Maiden (Alaska): asc., 72 114 Wilson, W. K.: biographical note, 70204 Westmorland, H.: note: Major-General Wind River Range: ascs. in, 68 321 W. W. Foster, 60 376 Windham, William: his 'ice-axe', 60 380 his book: Adventures in Climbing, Winkler, G.: remains found, 6r. 388 70172 Winter ascs.: season of, 70 325, 7r. 143 Weston, W.: monument to memory of, Wokkpash: climbs in the mountains of, 70322 6642 Wetterhorn: early ascs., 59179 suggested names for mountains of, 1st asc. by NE Pillar, 69 119,133 67165 ill., from shoulder of Gross Wollaston, N.: 'Peaks of the Sissu Nala Fiescherhorn, 6r. 337 basin, Lahul Himalaya', 60 62 NE Pillar (route), 69 31 his book: Handles of Chance, 6r. 573 NE face, showing Etter/Reiss 1944 Women's altitude record: 60 176, 64 258, route, 72 290 66 389 Wetterhorn, Scheidegg: by NW face, Wood, jr, Joseph: obit., 64106 60171 Wood, Mt (Alaska): by new route, 65251 Wheeler, E. 0.: obit., 67 402 Wood-Johnson, G.: obit., 6r. 545 Whillans, D.: 'Aiguille Poincenot', 67 236 Wordie, J. M.: obit., 67403 White Dome (Langtrang Himal): 1st Wrangham, E. A.: 'The technique of asc., 60 385 artificial climbing', 60 37 White Mountains (Crete): climbs in, his book: (with J. Brailsford) Selected 65208 Climbs in the Dauphine IIlps and White Sail: 2nd asc., 68 58 Vercors,7328S Z 53

Wright, J. E. B.: Yosemite valley: ascs. in, 68 321, 70 333 his books: Rock Climbing in Britain, modern climbing in, 71219 64145 Young, G. W.: 'Club and climbers, (with W. H. Murray) The Craft 1880-1900',6252 of Climbing, 70 172 'An alpine aura', 63 I Wright, Lord: obit., 69 330 note: Gabriel Lochmatter, 63126 Wyatt, C.: his book: The Call of the his books: (with G. Sutton & C. W. F. Mountains, 59 361 Noyce) Snowdon Biography, Wybergh, C. H.: obit., 67 405 61 561 Wyttenwasser Pass: cr., 61 335 The Influence of Mountains upon the Development of Human Intelli- Y AGANCERRO: asc., 67 265 gence, 62 192 Yalung valley: expedition to, 1953, Lunn's paper on, 66 100, 67 210 59316 obit. & port., 64 107 Yamazaki, Y.: 'Modern mountaineering Young, S.: obit., 63 239 in Japan', 71 248 Yukon: Alpine centennial expedition, Yanacocha (Andes): attempt, 69 56 1967, 73 18 Yanamarey group (Peru): ascs. in, see also p 55 below 72126 Yauyos, Cordillera: expedition to, 72 316 ZANUTTI,A.: port., 59 299 Yeames, J. L.: obit., 65 271 Zapata, Nevada: 1st asc., 6442 Year ofthe Alps: exhibition opened, Zaskar: women's expedition to, 64 84 70136 Zemu La: ill., 62164 Yerupaja: Zermatt: in the 1870's, 6249 2nd asc., 65 221 new accommodation for museum, correction re, 66 426 64130 attempts, 70 124, 144, 245, 71 138, English church at, 65 275 72125,284 Riffel Alp hotel destroyed, 66 380 ascs. of S Summit, 71 ISO proposed motor road, 66 380 1st direct asc. by W face, 72 146 entry of motors, 71 142 1st asc. by NW ridge, 73 252 ill., the Club Room of, in 1864, 6238 various ascs., 73 252 Ziemann, H. P.: obit., 61380 1st asc. by a woman, 73 253 Zinal: centenary of 1st inn, 64 240 Yerupaja Chico: 2nd asc., 73 II8 development of, 72 133 Yerupaja Sur: 3rd asc., 72146 Zoccone, Bocchetta del: 1st cr. from W, Yeso valley: ill., unnamed peak in, 69 280 65243 Zurcher, A.: 'Josef Knubel', 67 269 Yeti La: cr., 68 202 port., 67 270 Special Districts 54

A list of articles and maps (but not notes) relating to ranges other than the Alps.l Europe 1. British Isles Post-war winter mountaineering in Scotland. By T. W. Patey, 65 186 An introduction to Swanage. By J. S. Cleare, 66 299 The Green Abyss: on being nearly drowned at Chair Ladder, Cornwall. By H. Kilgour, 73 216 2. Caucasus Two Caucasian first ascents. By D. W. Freshfield, 60113 The Caucasus in 1874. By A. W. Moore, 60 305, 61 123 The East Summit of Dych Tau. By M. J. Harris, 64 66 Jangi Tau. By A. Blackshaw, 64 70 The Traverse of Shkhelda. By H. MacInnes, 67 54 The Bezingi Wall. By E. Vanis, 72 57 Maps: Caucasus, part of the Central, 60 358 Bezingi basin, 64 260 3. Norway Aspects of winter mountaineering in the Norwegian Arctic. By N. C. Negri, 60276 Reminiscences of Store Skagastolstind. By E. Sundt, 62 151 Trollryggen from Romsdal. By A. R. Heen, 64 183 The North face of Trollryggen. By J. Amatt, 71 98 The North face direct of S0ndre Trolltind. By J. Amatt, 73 I Some ethical considerations with a view to mountaineering in Norway. By A. Naess, 73230 Maps: Lyngen, North-west, 60 277 0ksfjord Peninsula, 61 204 4. Pyrenees and Spain Russell and the Vignemale. By R. Fedden, 65 80 Anne Lister's ascent of Vignemale. By V. Ingham, 73 199 A winter expedition to the Spanish Sierra Nevada. By A. C. Carter, 68 61 5. Tatra In the Tatra Mountains. By J. Mostowski, 68 26 The Tatras in September, 1965. By J. Hunt, 7137 Polish mountaineering. By P. Czartoryski, 72 103 Map: Polish High Tatra, 71 39 6. Other districts The mountains of Crete. By L. H. Hurst, 65 208 The Gran Sasso d'ltalia. By E. A. Underwood, 69 34 Maps: Crete, White Mountains, 65 208 Sans Nom, Pic (Dauphine), 61 88

1 Articles on the Alps are too numerous to list here, but are in the main index. 55

Africa 1. Central and South Kilimanjaro. By D. L. Busk, 60 96 Mount Kenya, 1939-1952. By J. W. Howard, 60 270 The North face of Mount Kenya and other climbs. By H. G. Nicol, 69 81 The North-east Pillar of Nelion. By B. Cliff, 69259 The Grand Traverse of Mount Kenya. By T. B. H. Phillips, 70 294 African holiday. By G. A. Dummett, 64206 Lukenya. By J. W. Howard, 65 195 Amie! and Rwot. By H. A. Osmaston, 69 228 Elizabeth Peak, Ruwenzori. By D. L. Busk, 59 268 Further notes on the Ruwenzori. By D. L. Busk, 59407,60 105 A new map of the Ruwenzori Peaks. By D. L. Busk, 646o An expedition to the Emin and Gessi area on Ruwenzori. By D. Pasteur, 69 191 The fairest Cape. By R. Baillie, 69 103 Maps: Kenya, Mount, 69 82 Ruwenzori, the, 59 269, 64 60 Central,69 199 2. North Climbing solo in the High Atlas. By C. W. F. Noyce, 67 65 The High Atlas in winter. By H. M. Brown, 71 43 Return to the Atlas. By H. M. Brown, 71 275 A note on Tieroko (Tibesti Mountains). By P. R. Steele, 69 268 The Simien and Batu ranges in Ethiopia. By D. L. Busk, 61 344 The Batu Mountains of the Bale Plateau, Ethiopia. By H. Smeds, 64217 Maps: Atlas, High, 67 66 Ethiopia, part of, 64 220 Morocco, 71 276 Toubkal massif, 71 277 Simien Range, 61 344 Tibesti: Tieroko massif, 69 269 North America 1. Alaska and Yukon Climbs in Alaska, 1954. By F. Beckey, 60 31 The Parachute Brigade Alaska expedition, 1956. By E. J. E. Mills, 62 121 Mount Logan (East Peak). By K. F. Ross, 64 54 The South face of Mount McKinley. By F. Maraini, 68108 The Moose's Tooth. By A. G. Smythe, 68 262 The West face of Mount Huntington. By D. Roberts, 71 15 Two North American expeditions. By M. E. B. Banks, 71 19 A visit to Alaska. By E. E. Shipton, 72 76 Arrigetch. By M. H. Westmacott, 72 109 The Yukon Alpine Centennial expedition-1967. By Lord Hunt, 7318 Note on Good Neighbour Peak. By J. V. Hoeman, 73 22 Maps: Alaska: Centennial Range, 73 24 part of, 73 24 McKinley, Mt: district, 6z 124

I I I I

I I I

I I I I I I I

I

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I I

I I i

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I ! 2. Canada (except Yukon) The Banff-Jasper Highway, 1952. By R. L. Morrish, 59 33 Bugaboo. By M. P. Ward, 65 18 The mountains of Wokkpash. By M. F. R. Jones, 6642 The Scottish-Canadian Coast Range expedition, 1965. By D. Fabian, 71 296 Map: Purcell Range: Bugaboo, Bobbie Burns, and Conrad Groups, 65 20

3. Other districts Mexican trilogy, 1963. By M. Fantin, 7048 The Rockies of Colorado. By E. Echevarria C., 71 26 Modern Yosemite climbing. By Y. Chouinard, 71 219 Maps: Colorado, Rocky Mountains of, 71 27 Ixtaccihuatl, 70 5I Orizaba, Pico de, 7°49 Popocateptl, 70 50

South America 1. Peru Le Salcantay et la Cordillera de Vilcabamba. By B. Pierre, 59 307 Invitation to the Andes. By J. C. Oberlin, 60 69 Further notes on the Andes. By E. Echevarria C., 60 79 Invitation to the Andes, Part II. By G. Francis, 60 280 Invitation accepted. By J. W. R. Kempe and M. H. Westmacott, 61435 Cambridge on Pumasillo. By J. H. Longland, 63 9 In the Cordillera Vileanota. By S. Jervis, 6438 The Imperial College expedition to the Nudo de Apolobamba, 1959. By W. H. Melbourne, 65 175 The ascent of Cayesh and attempt on the virgin East ridge of Huascaran. By L. R. Stewart, 66 199 Climbs in the Cordillera Vileabamba. By B. Hearfield, 6941 A journey through the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. By H. L. Stembridge, 6g 88 The ascent of Rondoy. By D. Wall, 69 106 Peru, 1964. By M. Slesser, 7°240 Alpamayo, 1966. By J. Amatt, 7218 Yerupaja. By J. M. Kosterlitz, 72 284 Maps: America, part of South, 61 272 Andes of Peru: Allinccapac group, 60 287 Apolobamba, Nudo de, 65 176 Blanca, Cordillera, 6g 92 high mountain activities of South American Indians, 73 82 Huagaruncho massif, 61 436 Pumasillo group, 69 43 Veronica de Urubamba, Cordillera, 7°244 Saguasiray massif of, 70 241 Vileanota, Cordillera, 64 40 Peru, 6074 climbing regions of, 60 284 57

2. Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego Mount San Valentin. By O. Meiling, 59432 Crossing the Patagonian Ice-cap. By H. W. Tilman, 61 271 Two visits to the Andes of Southern Patagonia. By E. E. Shipton, 65 158 Aiguille Poincenot. By D. Whillans, 67236 Journey over the Patagonian Ice-cap. By E. E. Shipton, 67 250 The Darwin range, Tierra del Fuego. By E. E. Shipton, 67 259 The Central Tower of Paine. By C. J. S. Bonington, 68 179 Further travels in Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. By E. E. Shipton, 68 230 Crossing the North Patagonian Ice-cap. By E. E. Shipton, 69 183 The first ascent of the Fortress and future prospects in the Cordillera del Paine. By 1. Clough, 73 143 The British Cerro Torre expedition, 1967/68. By P. Crew, 73186 Maps: America, part of South, 61 273 Darwin, Cordillera, 67 261 Paine, Cordillera del, 67151,73145 Patagonia: Ice-cap, 61 274 part of, 65 161, 165

3. Other districts Aconcagua, face Sud. By R. Ferlet and G. Poulet, 60 17 Some notes on the history of Aconcagua. By M. Fantin, 71 261 The Andes of Cocuy. By E. Echevarria C., 63 33 The Santa Marta range, Colombia. By E. Echevarria C., 63 209 The Cordillera Real. By E. Echevarria C., 64 44 The Chilean Cordillera Central. By E. Echevarria C., 64 228, 65 53 The Sierra Nevada de Merida. By D. L. Busk, 67 280 The Reading University Andean expedition, 1962. By R. H. F. Hunter, 68 219 A map of the Andes of Venezuela. By D. L. Busk, 69 122 Astray in the Andes. By M. Nelson, 69 217 Cordillera Real, 1966. By D. H. Challis, 72292 The South American Indian as a pioneer alpinist. By E. Echevarria C., 73 81 Maps: Aconcagua, 71 261 Chilean Cordillera Central, 64 236 Cocuy, Sierra Nevada de, 63 34 Merida, Sierra Nevada de, 69122 Real, Cordillera, 6446,68221 Cooco valley, 72 296 Santa Marta, Sierra Nevada de, 63 214

Antarctic and Arctic 1. Greenland Groenland-Sud. By C. Maillard, 63 18 The crossing of the North and Central Staunings. By J. A. Jackson, 66 250 The first exploration of the South Staunings. By A. Blackshaw, 66254 The Hjernespids. By 1. McNaught-Davis, 66256 The Imperial College East Greenland expedition, 1963. By H. D. D. Watson, 69 253 The Royal Naval East Greenland expedition, 1966. By M. B. Thomas and R. H. Wallis, 72 29, 212 Sandhurst in Greenland, 1966. By J. D. C. Peacock, 7245 Upemivik Island: the University of St Andrews West Greenland expedition, 1967. By P. Gribbon, 73 68 Sukkertoppen Wedding Cake: the Army mountaineering expedition, 1967. By J. D. C. Peacock, 73 234 Maps: Greenland: activities of Royal Naval expedition, 1966,72213 Ikamiut area, Sukkertoppen, 73 239 illustrating route of Sandhurst expedition, 1966,7251 Schweizerland: access to, 72216 location of, 72 3 I South, 63 21 Staunings Alpen, 66 252 area in which the Imperial College expedition operated, 69 256 Caledonia group, 69 128 Tasermiut fjord region, 68 308, 3 I I Upernivik Island: activities of the 1967 expedition, 73 69

2. Other districts The South Georgia survey, 1955-6. By L. C. Baume, 6x 465 Mountains of the Crozet Islands. By H. W. Tilman, 66 52 The Cambridge Arctic Canada expedition, 1961, to Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. By R. E. Langford, 6797 Climbing in the Antarctic. By M. Burley, 67 226 Spirit of the storm. By W. M. M. Deacock, 70 273 Mount Herschel and Robertson Bay: Sir Edmund Hillary's Antarctic expedition, 1967 By M. Gill, 73 173 Maps: Antarctica: Cape Hallett area, 73175 Baffin Island: Pangnirtung Pass, 67 105 Heard Island: showing 1963 and 1964-5 routes, 70 275 South Georgia, 6x 466

Asia

I. HIMALAYA AND KARAKORAM (a) 8000-ers

The Swiss Everest expedition-Spring, 1952. By A. Roch, 59 I Everest. By T. Graham Brown, 59 103 Everest, 1953: Narrative of the expedition. By Sir John Hunt and M. Westmacott, 591°7 Sir John Hunt's diary, 59 123 The first ascent of the South Peak. By R. C. Evans, 59 173 The last lap. By Sir Edmund Hillary, 59 235 The closed circuit oxygen apparatus. By R. B. Bourdillon, T. D. Bourdillon, and E. Harris, 59238 The oxygen apparatus in action. By T. D. Bourdillon, 59 247 Indian Mount Everest expedition, 1960. By G. Singh, 6615 The conquest of Mount Everest by the Chinese mountaineering team. By Shih Chan-chun, 66 28 59

Chinese Everest expedition, 1960: a further commentary. By B. R. Goodfellow, 66 313 The Everest expedition of 1921. By G. H. Bullock, 67 13°,291 Everest: the Chinese photograph. By H. Merrick, 67 310 Mount Everest, 1962. By H. Dang, 68 I Mount Everest: the Chinese photograph. (I) By H. Merrick, 68 48 (II) By L. R. Wager, 6849 Transport and Sherpas on Mount Everest, 1963. By J. O. M. Roberts, 68237 Americans on Everest, 1963. By N. G. Dyhrenfurth, 69 I Maurice Wilson and Everest. By T. S. Blakeney, 70 269 A Tibetan name for Everest. By T. S. Blakeney, 70 304 Nine on the summit of Everest. By M. S. Kohli, 71 I K 2: the third American Karakorum expedition, 1953. By H. R. A. Streather, 59 391 The 1954 Italian expedition to the Karakorum and the conquest of K 2. By A. Desio, 603 The Kangchenjunga reconnaissance, 1954. By J. W. R. Kempe, 59428 Towards Kangchenjunga. By A. D. B. Side, 60 83 Kangchenjunga climbed. By G. C. Band, 60 207 On Lhotse and Mount Everest. By A. Eggler, 61 239 Makalu. By J. Franco, 6113 The descent from Makalu, 1961, and some medical aspects of high altitude climbing. By M. P. Ward, 68 II Dhaulagiri, 1953. By A. Roch, 59 302 Dhaulagiri, 1959. By F. Moravec, 65 II The Cho Oyu expedition, 1952. By R. C. Evans, 59 9 Cho Oyu, 1954. By H. Tichy, 60 239 The ascent of Nanga Parbat. By W. Frauenberger and H. Buhl, 59371 The ascent of Shisha Pangma. By Chou Cheng, 69 211 Maps: Ama Dablam, Makalu, Everest, 66 344 Dhaulagiri, 593°4 Cho Oyu massif, 60 240

(b) Bhutan Bhutan Himal. By M. P. Ward, 70 106 Bhutan Himal: some further observations. By M. P. Ward, 71281 Perambulators in the land of the Thunder Dragon. By P. R. C. Steele, 72 264 The ascent of Chomolhari. By D. F. O. Dangar and T. S. Blakeney, 723°4 Maps: Bhutan: Monlakachung region, 72 270 Northern, 71 283 North-western Himalaya of, 68 36 route followed in 1967, 72266 West, 70 107

(c) Karakoram To the Monk's Head on Rakaposhi. By R. R. E. Chorley, 60 48 Struggle for Rakaposhi. By M. E. B. Banks, 61 449 The ascent of Rakaposhi. By F. R. Brooke, 63 159 The second attempt on Masherbrum. By L. R. Hewitt, 61 29 Masherbrum, 1957. By J. Walmsley, 63 169 60

The ascent of Masherbrum. By T. F. Hornbein, 67 9 The climbing of the Muztagh Tower. By J. M. Hartog, 61 253 The Imperial College Karakoram expedition, 1957. By E. E Shipton, 63185 The first ascent of Haramosh. By H. Roiss, 64 12 The Italian expedition to Gasherbrum IV. By F. Maraini, 64 155 The first ascent of Chogolisa. By T. Kuwabara, 64 168 Snow Lake, 1956. By D. H. Greenald, 64 175 The Army Mountaineering Association Expedition, 1959. By H. R. A. Streather, 65 37 The Batura Muztagh expedition, 1959. By J. I. Edwards, 65 48 Distaghil Sar. By W. Stefan, 66 I Ascent of Trivor. By C. W. F. Noyce, 669 The Royal Air Force Karakoram expedition, 1961. By A. J. M. Smyth, 67 73 Khinyang Chhish, 1962. By P. J. Horniblow, 68 100 The ascent of Saltoro Kangri. By T. Shidei, 69 73 Communications on the Pakistan-British Karakoram expedition, 1962. By J. A. E. Hasell, 69 98 The first ascent of Momhil Sar. By R. Pischinger, 70 69 Maps: Aling glacier, 67 78-9 Baltoro glacier and K 2, 59 392 Distaghil Sar and Trivor, 66 5 Gasherbrum group, 64 156 Hushe valley, the, 67 78 Karakoram: part of, 63186 Kero Lungma-A1chori glacier basins, 65 46 Khinyang Chhish: general area, 68102 Malubiting massif, 67 168 Momhil Sar area, 70 70 Saltoro Kangri: route up from Goma, 69 76

(d) Kulu, lahul, Spiti Glaciers of the Kulu-Spiti Divide. By A. E. Gunther, 59 288 Peaks of the Sissu Nala basin, Lahul Himalaya. By N. Wollaston, 60 62 The R.A.F. Mountaineering Association expedition to Lahoul. By A. J. M. Smyth, 6145 Central Lahul, 1955. By H. McArthur, 61 279 The Cambridge University expedition to Spiti, 1955. By T. Braham, 61 296 Spiti, 1956. By P. F. Holmes, 61 458 The Derbyshire Himalayan expedition, 1961. By R. G. Pettigrew, 67 323,6852 The ascent of Kulu Pumori. By R. G. Pettigrew, 70 74 Across the Sara Umga La. By R. G. Pettigrew, 71236 Bruce's Solang Weisshorn. By R. G. Pettigrew, 72 201 Papsura climbed. By R. G. Pettigrew, 73 158 Maps: Kulti basin, Central Lahul, 61 46 Kulu: showing routes of the Derbyshire Himalayan expedition, 67 323 Punjab Himalaya, 71237,72202 Malana and Tos glaciers, 73 158 Kulu-Lahul-Spiti watershed, 70 75 Kulu-Spiti Divide, glaciers of the, 59 289 Lahul, part of Central, 61 284 Lahul Himalaya: peaks of the Sissu Nala basin, 60 64 Spiti-Lahul-Kulu watersheds, 61 458 Zaskar and Lahoul, 64 84 61

(e) Nepal The Yalung valley, 1953. By J. W. R. Kempe, 59 316 Scottish Nepal expedition, 1952. By T. Mackinnon, 59 417 Exploring the Api and Nampa group, Western Nepal. By J. B. Tyson, 59421 The Creagh Dhu Himalayan expedition, 1953. By H. MacInnes, 60 58 Lho La. By N. E. Odell, 60 132 The Barun expedition. By G. Lowe, 60 227 Round about Dhaulagiri. By J. O. M. Roberts, 60 248 Safari in Nepal. By J. Howard, 61 38 The Merseyside Himalayan expedition, 1955. By A. Gregory, 6154 The Scottish Women's Himalayan expedition. By M. Jackson, 616o Climbing the Fish's Tail. By C. W. F. Noyce, 62 113 Women's Overland Himalayan expedition, 1958. By A. Davies, 64 83 Ama Dablam, 1959. By J. H. Emlyn Jones, 65 I Annapurna II. By J. O. M. Roberts, 65 143 Nuptse. By J. Walmsley, 66 209 Himalayan Scientific expedition, 1960-1. By M. P. Ward, 66 343 Three months in West Nepal. By J. B. Tyson, 67 120 The Jagdula expedition, 1962. By D. Evans, 68 65 Dhaula Himal. By J. O. M. Roberts, 68 188 To Hiunchuli Patan. By P. R. Steele, 68 198 The Himalayan Schoolhouse expedition, 1963. By J. G. Wilson, 69 23 Thamserku. By D. Mackay, 7090 Gauri Sankar, 1964. By I. Clough:70 96 The ascent of Annapurna South Peak (Ganesh). By S. Uyeo, 70 213 The Himalayan Schoolhouse expeditions. By J. G. Wilson, 70 226 West Nepal expedition, 1964. By J. Cole, 70 254 With the Royal Air Force on Dhaulagiri IV. By J. O. M. Roberts, 71 75 The German Himalayan expedition, 1965. By G. Hauser, 7189 Maps: Annapurna Himal: South-western part of, 70 215 Dhaulagiri Himal, 60 248, 68 190, 71 85 Gauri Sankar: massif, 61 54 route on, 70 97 Hiunchuli Patan: North-west and West flanks of, 68200 Jagdula expedition, 68 77 Jugal Himal, 61 62 Nepal: part of, 61 38 part of Eastern, 60 228 part of Northern, 59 I I part of North-western, 59 427 part of West, 67123 West, showing 1961 and 1964 routes, 70257 Yalung valley, the, 59 321

2. HINDU KUSH A Roman flag on Saraghrar Peak. By F. Maraini, 65151 The Polish expedition to the Hindu Kush, 1960. By B. Chwascinski, 66 235 Two journeys in Swat Kohistan. By E. J. E. Mills, 67 42 Swat and Indus Kohistan. By T. Braham, 68 25I 62

The Garmisch-Partenkirchen Hindu Kush expedition, 1963. By I. Triibswetter, 6C}249 More climbs in Swat. By R. J. Isherwood, 70 205 The Scottish Hindu Kush expedition, 1965. By J. Wedderburn, 7I 58 Some climbs from the Upper Tirich glacier. By K. Diemberger, 7I 61 The exploration of the Hindu Kush. By B. Chwascinski, 7I 199 German Chitral expedition, 1965.By S. Rausch, 7I 215 A panorama of the Hindu Kush. By G. Gruber, 72 1 Journey to the Blue Valley. By P. Newby, 72 65 Shingeik Zorn-the Smoking Mountain. By I. Triibswetter, 72 85 Akher Chioh (7020 m). By H. Schell, 72225 Some notes on the Darrah-i-Parshui. By W. Frey, 72 308 A reconnaissance into North-east Chitral. By G. Gruber, 73 55 A visit to the Chiantar glacier region, Eastern Hindu Kush, 1967. By A. Linsbauer, 732°7 Maps: Darrah-e-Abi, approaches to the, from Panjshir, and a walk to the fringes of Nuristan, 72 67 upper, 7274 Darrah-i-Parshui, 72 309 Falak Sar region, 68 253 Hindu Kush, High (Eastern), 72 14 part of the, 7I 64, 203 Hindu Raj, between Shost and Vidinkot, 73 59 Chiantar glacier district, 73 208 Kohistan, approaches to, 67 46 Noshaq, 66 236 route of the Garmisch Partenkirchen expedition, 1963,69 251 Saraghrar,66 198 Swat and Indus Kohistan, 67 50

3. OTHER DISTRICTS Three months in Upper Garhwal and adjacent Tibet. By G. Singh, 60 257 The mountains of Elburz. By B. Pierre, 6I 63 A map of the Central Elburz. By D. L. Busk, 63 207 The highest mountains. By D. F. O. Dangar, 62 165,64136,66 391, 73 241 The northern approaches of Kinabalu. By A. J. M. Smyth, 63 27 The second ascent of Minya Konka. By Shih Chan-Chun, 63 194 Conquest of first 7000 m peak. By A. Polyakov, 63 203 The first ascent and first traverse of Victory Peak. By A. Polyakov, 6474 The ascent of Muztagh Ata. By Shih Chan-Chun, 64 78 A journey to Western Tibet, 1929. By E. B. Wakefield, 66 1I8, 325 The ascent of Amne Machin. By Pai Chin-Hsiao, 66274 Some hints for Himalayan aspirants. By G. O. Dyhrenfurth, 68 36 British-Soviet Pamirs expedition, 1962. (Part I) By J. Hunt, 68 90 (Part II) By I. G. McNaught-Davis, 68243 Twenty-five years of schoolboy expeditions in the Himalaya. By J. T. M. Gibson, 6C}201 Climbing in Turkish Kurdistan. By R. Fedden and P. Lloyd, 7I 133 Modern mountaineering in Japan. By Y. Yamazaki, 7I 248 Sat Dag, Hakkari, 1966. By S. E. P. Nowill,72 117 Austrian expedition to the Pamirs, 1967.By E. Vanis, 73 25 Maps: Garhwal, Upper, 60 258 Garmo glacier, 68 90 Kinabalu, 63 30, 3 I Pamir: Peak Lenin area, 73 30 Takht-e Sulaimangruppe, 63 208 Tibet: part of Western, 60 264 Western, 66 lI8

Australasia 1. Australia

Mountains of the Central Australian desert. By M. Hosford, 67 3I 3 Map: mountains of Central Australia, 67 319

2. New Guinea Mountains of the White Arrow. By P. Temple, 68 78

3. New Zealand Air survey of Southern Alps. By N. E. Odell, S9442 Mount Ruapehu, New Zealand. By N. E. Odell, 60 108 Southern Alps from end to end. By N. E. Odell, 60 365 A first ascent on Mount Cook. By H. MacInnes, 61 330 Mount Cook. By W. G. Croll, 69 262 A first visit to the New Zealand Alps. By T. A. H. Peacocke, 72 252 Map: Mount Cook, 69 265

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