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SABORES, SABERES. Comunicación Y Conocimientos En Sabores, saberes Comunicación y conocimientos en la cultura alimentaria Karina Herrera Miller Alfonso Gumucio Dagron Coordinadores Sabores, saberes Comunicación y conocimientos en la cultura alimentaria Esta publicación ha sido posible gracias al apoyo del Centro de Competencia en Comunicación para América Latina de la Fundación Friedrich Ebert, FES- COMUNICACIÓN el Centro de Investigaciones Interdisciplinarias en Ciencias y Humanidades (CEIICH) de la Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM), y de la Universidad Autónoma de Coahuila (UAdeC), México. © Karina Herrera Miller / Alfonso Gumucio Dagron (coordinadores) © La propiedad intelectual de cada texto corresponde a sus autores © Plural editores, 2019 © Dibujos y tapa: Marcos Loayza Primera edición: septiembre 2019 DL: 4-1-2629-19 ISBN: 978-99954-1-941-7 Producción Plural editores Av. Ecuador 2337 esq. calle Rosendo Gutiérrez Teléfono: 2411018 / Casilla 5097 / La Paz e–mail: [email protected] / www.plural.bo Impreso en Bolivia Índice Preámbulo ......................................................................................... 9 Una especie de manifiesta sobre las relaciones entre comunicación y culturas alimentarias ..................................... 13 I Comunidades emergentes de conocimiento y resistencias culturales De memorias y soberanía. Un protocolo para la introspección retrospectiva alimentaria en la vida cotidiana Jorge A. González............................................................................... 19 Mientras unos quieren McDonald’s, otros desean quinua Omar Rincón ...................................................................................... 49 La producción de alimentos como experiencia de libertad Victor Manuel Méndez Villanueva ...................................................... 63 Conocimiento rural y sostenibilidad alimentaria en el altiplano boliviano Alfonso Gumucio Dagron .................................................................... 75 [5] 6 SABORES, SABERES La palabra es la que nos alimenta José Luis Aguirre Alvis ....................................................................... 91 II Transformaciones en la cultura alimentaria Colonialidad alimentaria. Transformaciones simbólicas en el consumo de la quinua en Bolivia Karina Herrera Miller ........................................................................ 101 Quinua gourmet: raza, estética y evolución del uso de la quinua en la alta cocina peruana Mercedes Palomino Gonzales ............................................................... 119 Vinculación del runa con las plantas alimenticias en los andes: Contexto y simbolización de la naturaleza en la cultura indígena andina Efraín Cáceres Chalco ......................................................................... 139 Las transformaciones simbólicas del consumo del maíz en México Jorge Thamer ..................................................................................... 183 III Conocimiento tradicional y cambio climático Yapuchiris y estrategias locales para la gestión de riesgos agropecuarios María Quispe ..................................................................................... 205 Tecnología andina agrícola para la gestión del riesgo y adaptación al cambio climático en Cusco - Perú Edith Quispe Quillahuaman ................................................................ 225 Saberes ancestrales frente al cambio climático. Infraestructuras en las comunidades andinas Gónzaga Ayala Flores ......................................................................... 239 ÍNDICE 7 IV Agricultura familiar y soberanía alimentaria Seguridad Alimentaria en Bolivia: del dicho al hecho y cuánto trecho… María Teresa Nogales .......................................................................... 269 Comunicación y agricultura familiar, una mirada en momentos de polarización política en Colombia Javier Espitia Viasús ........................................................................... 289 Representaciones de seguridad alimentaria en los hogares Dora Argentina Cabezas Elizondo ....................................................... 309 El rol de la diversidad genética de la quinua y sus parientes como alimento Alejandro Bonifacio ............................................................................. 333 El cambio de patrones alimentarios como un problema de salud pública en el altiplano potosino de México Hilda A. M. Castro Gámez ................................................................. 345 Crece desde el pie María Laura Agüero / Soraya Ataide .................................................. 357 Autorías ............................................................................................ 378 Preámbulo No tomamos atajos porque queremos caminar el camino completo, con paso firme en cada etapa, siguiendo el ejemplo de los versos de Machado de hacer camino al andar. Este libro es una de las etapas de un largo proceso que se inició el año 2014, en el marco de los estudios del Doctorado en Ciencias y Humanidades para el Desarrollo Interdisciplinario, programa conjunto entre la Universidad Autónoma de Coahuila (UAdeC) y el Centro de Investigaciones Interdisciplinarias en Ciencias y Humanidades (CEIICH) de la Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM), ambas ins- tituciones académicas comprometidas con un concepto renovador de la investigación científica. En esa experiencia académica, cuyos pilares teóricos son los siste- mas complejos, la cibercultura@ y la epistemología genética, uno de los grupos de investigación conformado por profesionales de México, Bo- livia y Brasil, concentró su atención en el tema de la cultura alimentaria, abordado desde perspectivas diversas y articuladas como: la economía, la comunicación, la nutrición, la cultura y el conocimiento local, entre otras. La idea que guía el proceso trasciende el perímetro académico porque pretende incidir en la sociedad de manera continua, a través de actividades que contribuyan en la construcción colectiva de conocimien- to científico en diálogo con los saberes comunitarios y que involucre, decididamente, a comunidades emergentes de conocimiento local. Todo ello en una apuesta científico-política de transformaciones favorables a la colectividad. [9] 10 SABORES, SABERES El camino, desafiante para recorrerlo en conjunto, incluyó seis co- loquios académicos de doctorado, uno por cada semestre, realizados en Ciudad de México, en instalaciones del CEIICH, desde 2014 hasta 2016. En esas reuniones, medio centenar de investigadores provenientes de diversas disciplinas integraron 12 grupos especializados y compartían durante una semana en cada coloquio, los avances de sus pesquisas en diversos temas y, de modo particular, el Grupo de Frentes Culturales, cuyo foco articulado de interés fue, precisamente, la Cultura Alimentaria. Durante esa etapa académica desde ya innovadora, el grupo facili- tado por Jorge González, mantuvo reuniones regulares a través de una plataforma digital especialmente diseñada para las necesidades y fines del doctorado. Dora Cabezas Elizondo, Hilda Castro Gámez, Jorge Thamer Rodríguez, Víctor Manuel Méndez, Karina Herrera Miller y Alfonso Gumucio Dagron, junto al acompañamiento de Cicília Krohling Peruzzo y Jorge A. González llevaron adelante la progresiva construcción de un objeto de estudio complejo: la cultura alimentaria. En 2016 el grupo coordinó y publicó en la revista digital Razón & Palabra (Vol. 20, No. 3_94) el número especial “La dimensión simbólica de los sistemas alimentarios”, con 69 textos de autores, no necesariamente miembros del núcleo central del doctorado. La invitación a colaborar se abrió hacia todos los investigadores latinoamericanos interesados en el tema. El número fue dirigido por Jorge A. González y Víctor Manuel Méndez fue el editor general. Más allá de la publicación resultante, el proceso preparatorio permitió establecer una importante red de con- tactos y promover la debida atención sobre la temática. En 2017, en el marco del Seminario Permanente de Cultura y Representaciones Sociales, integrado al Instituto de Investigaciones So- ciales de la UNAM, dirigido por Gilberto Giménez, se articuló una serie de presentaciones que también abordaron la problemática del sistema complejo de la alimentación, con la participación de algunos integrantes del grupo Cultura Alimentaria. El 19 y 20 de abril de 2018 tuvo lugar en la Universidad Católica Boliviana, en La Paz, Bolivia, el I Coloquio Latinoamericano de Cultura Alimentaria, Comunicación y Conocimiento Local, la primera actividad orga- nizada fuera de México, con participación de más de veinte expositores de Bolivia, Colombia, México y Perú. El evento fue coordinado por Karina Herrera Miller y Alfonso Gumucio Dagron, y contó con el apoyo del Centro de Competencia en Comunicación para América Latina de la Fundación Friedrich Ebert (FESCOMUNICACIÓN), el CEIICH de la PREÁMBULO 11 UNAM, el Servicio de Radio y Televisión para el Desarrollo (SECRAD) de la Universidad Católica Boliviana y Plural Editores. La mayor parte de las ponencias presentadas en aquella oportunidad, además de otras contribuciones de investigadores que no pudieron asistir al evento, han sido recogidas en este libro. La particularidad del I Coloquio fue la integración al grupo académico de investigadores indígenas de Perú y Bolivia, cuya experiencia de campo enriqueció las discusiones y promovió el diálogo de saberes. El I Coloquio Latinoamericano de Cultura Alimentaria, Comunicación y Conocimiento Local permitió, a la vez, constituir una red
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