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WEST MAINLAND - HARRAY HARRAY - ’S LANDLOCKED PARISH t

h sumed all the ale intended g i r

y for the Birsaymen. Harray p o

c folk have ever since been n w

o called "Crabs". The r

C Hinatuin Stone still stands (HY318158) and the name is said to mean "going back in shame", referring to the Birsaymen who insulted the Harray folk.

Bronze Age Harray has many mounds, knowes or howes (ON Haugr, mound or gravemound). Some of these are man-made and oth- ers are glacial deposits from when the ice was retreating Aerial view of Harray and the Loch of Harray from the south HARRAY (ON Herad, Harray Crabs About 1137 11,000 years ago. Near (HY307163), Burrian, In 1936 a Pictish symbol Orkney Museum. This class Inland District) is the only St Magnus' remains were to Winksetter the Knowes Corrigall (HY324194) and stone with an eagle, crescent I stone dates from the 6th or Orkney parish not to touch be transferred to , o’Trotty (HY341175) are a Burrian Broch (HY296184), and V-rod and a mirror was 7th century and was found in the sea, and lies in the centre carried by the men of each series of Bronze Age tumuli, which is on the shore of the found at the Knowe a ruined passageway. of the West Mainland. It is parish in turn. The proces- which are scattered in two Loch of Harray. o’Burrian and is now in the mostly fertile agricultural sion of Birsaymen was to rows along the Ward of m

u The Burrian Stone was found at the Knowe o’Burrian

land, apart from the hills meet the Harraymen at the Redland. Four gold disks, e s m u

amber beads and burnt u e bordering Evie and . Hinatuin stone on the M s u bones were found here in y It was known as the “parish Stoneyhill Road. e M n k y of lairds” as nearly all the 1858. Recent excavations r e O n k

land was held under Udal The Birsaymen were appar- have revealed burial cist in r Law by the farmers. The ently late in arriving. When the largest mound as well as O Harray Loch is one of the they did they found the a Bronze Age building near- best fishing lochs in Harraymen, "coming crawl- by. Another Bronze Age Scotland, as well as being ing oot o’the ditches like tumulus is the Knowe home to thousands of wild- crabs oot o’the ebb", on o’Smirrus (HY291215), fowl in wintertime. account of them having con- North of .

Replicas of gold disks from one of the Knowes o’Trotty The Hinatuin Stone on the Stoneyhill Road overlooks the lochs Iron Age There are a remarkable number of most- St Michael’s Kirk graveyard sits on top of a broch ly inland broch sites within a small area in Harray. These include Upperbrough in Harray Churchyard (HY314179), the Knowe o’Burrian, Netherbrough (HY308168), Russland or Marykirk (HY295177), the Knowe o’Bosquoy (HY309186), the Knowe o’Gullow, Netherbrough

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good example of an Orkney longhouse which has been adapted to meet changing needs. On display are horse- drawn implements, barn machinery, traditional straw and heather crafts, as well as livestock. There are also furnishings, utensils, tools and other artefacts in the house. The workings of this Click Mill are complete Milling by quernstone The way of life on Orkney very typical of uncultivated farms had not changed very Corrigall Farm Museum dates from the 19th century low-lying land in Orkney. much for centuries until the The heath and bog areas Christian sites The Parish enough for two rows of agricultural revolutions of have a vigorous growth of Kirk, St Michael’s, sits on a stalls and there are separate the 19th and 20th centuries. bryophytes, with substantial prominent hill from which doors for house and byre. The house and byre are par- mounds of sphagnum moss, virtually all of Harray can be The adjoining building is allel, long, low buildings, while the rough grassland seen. There are many inter- again both byre and with echoes to a more dis- parts harbour a good popula- esting graves, including that dwelling, perhaps for the tant past. The major 19th th tion of Orkney Voles. of the 20 century novelist, farm servants. The few win- century changes were higher Eric Linklater, many of which dows are small and there are and better roofs, chimneys Hen Harriers and Short- are set into the large broch no neuk beds. A further in the gable as well as bigger eared Owls are often seen mound of Upperbrough with- example is Bimbister windows. This all required a here hunting for Voles, while in the kirkyard. (HY329163), which can be better standard of masonry Harray from Muckle Eskadale Curlews, Lapwing, Snipe seen from the main A896 than may have previously Stoneyhill Road. On the Another good viewpoint is and Oystercatcher all breed. Old Farm Buildings Harray road to Dounby been used. edge of the loch at Quoyer from the Chair o’the Lyde has several very old farm The Reserve is best accessed there is a picnic site with a (ON Hlid, Slope from the layby at the junc- buildings which are still Corrigall Farm Museum The Click Mill (HY325228) pleasant vista over to the HY358187) on the Lyde tion of the A965 and A986 standing. These include (Orkney Museums Service - is a “Norse-type” vertical- . The Road. This view was said (HY338137). Winksetter (HY341164) which signposted off the A986) is a axis watermill. Called Hinatuin Standing Stone, by one old retired Harray sea th may be 15 century , and is restored Orkney farmhouse “click” mills due to the noise near the top of Staney Hill, captain to be “the best he th Viewpoints There is a fine possibly one of the oldest of the late 19 century. The made while in operation, may well be related to the had seen anywhere on his view over the Lochs and the Norse-type farmsteads left. dwelling, which dates from these mills have been known Ring of Brodgar and the travels". In the foreground th West Mainland from the Here the byre end is wide the mid-18 century, is a from Norse times and are Winter Solstice. lies a wide expanse of Corrigall Farm Museum byre essentially mechanised The Click Mill, Burn of Hillside heather moorland, with the quern stones. This example rich agricultural land in the was built in the 19th century, middle distance and the but is very similar to much lochs and hills in the earlier mills, such as that at background. The Lyde Road The Bu in . It is said offers good opportunities to to be able to mill 250kg of see Hen Harriers, Red- corn in an hour. throated Divers and other moorland species. Nature Reserve Harray Road End is a Scottish Walks There are several Wildlife Trust Nature good Hill Walks in Harray. reserve. This small area is Syradale (HY350158),

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HARRAY ATTRACTIONS ARCHAEOLOGY Hinatuin Stone Knowes o’Trotty Knowe o’Smirrus Knowe o’Burrian Russland Broch Knowe o’Bosquoy Knowe o’Gullow Netherbrough Burrian Broch OLD FARMING Corrigall Farm Museum The Grimeston Road has lovely views over the lochs to the Hoy Hills Winksetter Bimbister rooms are en suite. STB 3 Click Mill Crowns Commended. VIEWPOINTS & WALKS Nearby, on the shores of Stoneyhill Road Aerial view of the Loch of Harray from the northwest Harray Loch, the Merkister Grimeston Road Hotel, a Fisherman’s Haven, Lochside Viewpoint reached by following the track Burn o’Rush (HY310227) Right of Way, goes from has the excellent Skerries Russland Drovers’ Road from the Refuge Corner is up a peat road off the Russland (HY313178) past Chair o’the Lyde Restaurant, and also has an (HY337155) past Wasdale B9057. An old woman the now derelict Harray enticing bar menu. The NATURE & WILDLIFE Loch (good for ducks and called Kitty Huntlin is said Mill and the Merkister Merkister has won the Harray Road End Reserve waders), is a very pretty valley to have had an illicit still in Hotel. A signposted track Syradale Glenmorangie Scottish with waterfalls and many wild this area and to have hidden leads off to the left about Burn o’Rush Game Fishing Hotel of the Muckle Eskadale flowers. The Devil’s Well, a her son from the Press Gang 100m after the hotel, passing Year Award twice and is Loch of Wasdale lovely cup-shaped pool on the here. Rumour has it that she the Dounby sewage works Egon Ronay and Vegetarian CRAFTS & SERVICES Burn of Syradale is reputed to may still be found engaged on the way. These use reed Travel Guide recommended. Fursbreck Pottery cure toothache. By putting a in her craft on a misty sum- beds to process the effluent Boats are available for hire Dounby pin previously placed between mer's night and that her from the village, thus pro- A fine catch at the hotel. Tel (01856) the sore teeth into the pool and poteen is real "fire water". tecting Harray Loch, which 771366; Fax (01856) then walking away back- is an SSSI, from pollution. 771515. wards, toothache can be cured, The Russland to Swartland The route crosses the B9057 SKERRIES RESTAURANT or so it is said. Drovers’ Road, a Public near the Decca masts and Fursbreck Pottery, the continues through the heart at the Merkister Hotel, Harray home of the “real Harray The Loch of Harray is a favourite choice for Trout fishing of West Mainland farming Potter” (HY320170), has Dinners from 7pm country to Swartland pottery for sale and also Booking essential (HY277209), at the entrance gives demonstrations and Bar Lunches to the World War II air base tuition by arrangement. All Bar Suppers of Skeabrae. pottery is hand thrown, fired “BEAUTIFUL and glazed on the premises. Dounby (HY295208) is the VIEWS OVER Andrew Appleby makes a main settlement in Harray HARRAY LOCH” very attractive range, which and has shops, petrol and the is available in several differ- Smithfield Hotel, Tel ent glazes, Tel. (01856) EGON RONAY & GOOD HOTELS GUIDES (01856) 771215, Fax 771419. MICHELIN & VEGETARIAN TRAVEL GUIDES (01856) 771494. This charming village inn serves Tel (01856) 771366 fine local food, and all

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THE ORKNEY LONGHOUSE THE TRADITIONAL ORKNEY FARMHOUSE

Larger farms had a separate dwelling house and out- buildings, as seen at the Norse farm at Westness, while at smaller holdings man and beast shared the same roof. Constructed of stone, the easily-quarried local sandstone being readi- ly available, the buildings were sturdy and cosy. With A “firehouse” with an open, central hearth and three-toed pot couples of driftwood, wood from an old boat or even whalebone, perhaps lined with simmons as insulation and with a covering of large flagstones, or turf, maxi- mum use was made of avail- able materials. Inter of Kirbuster Farm Museum showing fireback Later the fireback was holdings usually incorporat- Crusie lamps were used for As at Skara Brae much use placed against the gable and ed all into one building, with light using oil or fat which was made of flagstone for only in the 19th century were man at the top end and came from whales, seals, interior fittings such as Kirbuster Farm Museum, chimneys introduced in beasts at the bottom. A good fish, or animal tallow. shelves and stone box beds. gable ends. The smoke-hole example can be seen at Park Initially they were made of The traditional Orcadian Although there is evidence Smaller houses were com- or liora also served to let Cottage near in bone or steatite, but the longhouse changed little that the Picts built at least monly of two rooms, the light in, as windows were Orphir (HY312044). Byres wrought iron versions were over the centuries, being some quite prestigious hous- ootby or but and the inby or small or non-existent, except and dwelling houses were much better. Rush pith was well adapted to the climate es, it was only after the ben. The but was the living in bigger houses. very similar in construction generally used as a wick. and the needs of its occu- Norse settlement that long- and cooking room, where even when separate, under- The development of the pants. Over 5,000 years ago houses appeared. The basal everything happened, while While the larger farms tend- lying the importance of cat- Tilley Lamp, which uses the people at the Knap of courses of such houses at the the ben was the bedroom. ed to have separate byres, tle to the economy. pressurised paraffin as a Howar were living in very Brough of Birsay differ little th By the 18 century box beds outhouses and a barn with fuel, in 1920 transformed well built houses, only the in shape and size from later provided some privacy and attached kiln, the smaller Local materials were also winter evenings in Orkney lack of iron for tools and houses, such as Winksetter, protection from draughts. much used in furnishings. houses. utensils really differentiating Bimbister or Corrigall, all in Prior to this the people slept Crusie lamps were common The traditional Orkney their life style from later Harray. around the fire on benches straw-backed chairs and Orcadians. along the walls, or in neuk other straw articles such as LONGHOUSES A “firehouse” with a fireback and a box-bed beds set into the walls simi- caisies, cubbies (baskets) Orphir Park Cottage lar to those at Skara Brae. and simmons (ropes) are Birsay Brough of Birsay examples. Wood was not Kirbuster The hearth was originally however absent and many a Harray Bimbister central as at Skara Brae, Corrigall Farm Museum house was lined with the fit- Winksetter with a hole in the roof to let tings of a wrecked ship. Rendall Mossetter the smoke out, but later a While peat was used as fuel Firth Langalour fireback was introduced as Skaill, Westness where available, the sandy Nether Ouseness can be seen at Kirbuster islands such as Sanday and N Ronaldsay several houses Museum, with a wooden had to Sanday Ortie and others smoke hole and skylin make do with dried cow Redhouse, etc Skelbist, Boray board to disperse the smoke. dung or seaweed.

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