WILDERNESS Co-published with Tla-o-qui-aht Tribal Parks Vol.29, No.6 — 2010 FREE REPORT WILDERNESSCOMMITTEE COMMITTEE

Meares Island Tribal Park Tribal Park ising up from the ocean, the salal, salmon berry and sword fern. site of Meares Island, to the protests strip of water to the Meares Island Remerald green ancient forests of Or go with a guide to learn about the and court battle over logging giant Tribal Park. You'll witness its amazing Meares Island form the backdrop of traditional uses of these forest plants MacMillan Bloedel's plans to clearcut legacy and make memories to last a the tourist and fishing town of Tofino, and about the area's rich history. log Meares in 1984, Clayoquot Sound lifetime! BC, Canada. Situated in the heart of Tla-o-qui-aht territory encompasses has seen its share of conflict. Clayoquot (pronounced "Klak-wot") Tofino and its surroundings. The Tla-o- But mostly Clayoquot Sound, Tofino is on the west coast qui-aht have been living in Clayoquot Sound is remembered of Island and is where the Sound since time immemorial. Opitsat, as welcoming, wild and Trans Canada Highway hits the wide- the Tla-o-qui-aht village on Meares wonderful! These are open Pacific Ocean. As anyone who Island is located in the same spot as the main reasons that has visited Clayoquot Sound knows, traders from Britain and the USA noted Clayoquot Sound is this place is a symphony of nature in the late 1700s. such a popular get- connected to the rest of Canada by a The Tla-o-qui-aht have been away destination today. ribbon of blacktop. welcoming visitors from around the If you are fortunate To fend off impending logging world ever since those first encounters, enough to visit Tofino plans, Meares Island was first though it's not always been easy and the surrounding designated a "Tribal Park" on April 21, living in such a busy crossroads of Clayoquot Sound 1984 by the Tla-o-qui-aht First Nations, cultures. From the battle that sank the area, be sure to supported by its neighbours, the merchant ship ‘Tonquin’ in 1811 within cross that narrow Ahousaht First Nations. Meares Island's 8,500 hectares of spectacular ancient forests make this tribal park a favourite with west coast visitors. A short trip by traditional dugout canoe, sea kayak or water taxi from one of Tofino's waterfront docks can transport you to the amazing world found on Meares. Imagine seeing red cedar trees almost 20 metres in Cover image: Meares Island (Adrian Dorst). Left: Hikers on Meares Island looking at giant redcedar (Garth Lenz); Top: Pacific tree frog (Jaqueline circumference. That's a tree as wide Windh); Below: "Life of Meares" design (). as a living room! Imagine hiking on a winding boardwalk through this forest of giant trees and lush west wild fun coast jungle plants like licorice fern, information inside! Why Meares Island wasn’t logged meares island tribal park n November 21, 1984, former in and after extensive negotiations, First Nations filed proceedings Ologging giant MacMillan the MacMillan Bloedel logging crew to prevent MacMillan Bloedel Bloedel's crew boat, the Kennedy was allowed to land. from logging Meares, basing Queen headed towards Meares On shore they were met by their argument on aboriginal Island in Clayoquot Sound to nearly one hundred people, Native ownership of the Island. At Opitsat, commence BC government and non-native, with songs and a community of the Tla-o-qui-aht approved logging. A clearcut drumming. The MacMillan Bloedel people located at the southwest landscape on Meares seemed officials asked for passage. Moses end of Meares Island, the depth inevitable. The old-growth forests Martin, elected Chief Councilor of the of the shell midden attests to would be converted to two by fours, Tla-o-qui-aht, read from the original over 5,000 years of continuous newsprint and slash. 1905 Timber License, the legal occupancy. Meares was never Or so it seemed… cornerstone of MacMillan Bloedel's occupied by "outsiders" and its Instead, the Kennedy encountered claim to ownership of the trees. ownership was never ceded to the many small boats—enough to halt This agreement exempts all Indian Canadian government. progress. The RCMP were called plots, gardens and grounds from Eventually the Tla-o-qui-aht logging. Chief Martin told them and Ahousaht First the Island was a Tribal Park, his Nations prevailed peoples’ garden; and that while in court, and were they were welcome as visitors, no successful in their logging would be allowed. efforts to protect their The loggers left and the garden: Meares Island. trees’ protectors remained The MacMillan Bloedel and continued working on a logging crew never permanent cabin and trails. returned. Two days later, on November Excerpts adopted 23, MacMillan Bloedel sought from: MEARES ISLAND: an injunction against Chief Peaceful Protest Halts Moses Martin and "anyone else" Logging - Wilderness Committee from obstructing its logging Educational Report Vol. 4 - No. 1, operations on Meares Island. January, 1985 Shortly thereafter, the Left: 1984 Save Meares Island protest at Legislature Tla-o-qui-aht and Ahousaht (Wilderness Committee files). Top: Big tree trail on Meares Island (Adrian Dorst). Bottom: 1988 Meares Island trailbuilding crew (Wilderness Committee files). 25 years and still going strong Story by Torrance Coste, Tla-o-qui-aht Tribal Parks Volunteer n May 15, 2010, the Tla-o- the case. on the Island with his father and his Oqui-aht First Nations held a The Tla-o-qui-aht and Ahousaht brothers during the blockade. public feast to commemorate the Ha'wiih then treated the guests to Despite the success, Martin was 25th anniversary of the notorious their family songs and dances, a quick to point out that Meares is not Meares Island court case. The 1985 spectacle that continued for hours. necessarily protected forever. case, which placed Meares under a “Our society underestimates how “The Island is not quite saved,” he Supreme Court injunction, was the powerful and alive this culture is,” said, adding that the injunction only result of protests and a blockade said Woodward, when the songs stands while the land treaty remains by the Tla-o-qui-aht and Ahousaht and dances had finished, “but the unsettled. First Nations, environmentalists tradition here is as strong as ever.” and community members against Woodward also acknowledged logging giant MacMillan Bloedel the larger role of the Meares Island Tla-o-qui-aht Tribal Parks co-hosts (who were later bought out by court case in British Columbia. He Story by Torrance Coste, Tla-o-qui-aht Tribal Parks Volunteer Weyerhaeuser in 1999). explained that the case served as international events The event marked a significant the catalyst for the treaty process. “It n May 2010, indigenous aht values govern development ecotourism infrastructure within the Sound, the group engaged in a step forward for indigenous rights proved that the government could Icommunity representatives and strategies for Tribal Parks. The their traditional territory. powerful discussion, based around and environmental movements no longer ignore indigenous rights,” researchers from around the world balance between responsible Tribal Parks staff were reluctant to the concept of Hishuk-ish tsawalk, in Canada. The case also created he said. were welcomed to Tla-o-qui-aht ecosystem management and the label their parks as “protected areas,” which means “everything is one, and the first tribal park, which has Woodward was proud to see territory for the 12th International creation of sustainable livelihoods as this term separates the world into all is interconnected.” since been expanded to include that Tla-o-qui-aht Tribal Parks is Congress of Ethnobiology and is the backbone of Tribal Parks, and pockets of strict conservation and Throughout the events, Tla-o-qui- Ha’uukmin (the Kennedy Lake still going strong after 25 years, a workshop on Indigenous and this value inspired individuals and space in which destructive industrial aht Tribal Parks was understood as watershed) and is managed by the saying “This instance showed that Community Conserved Areas groups with similar goals. practices persist. Tribal Parks Director an initiative that not only recognizes Tla-o-qui-aht Tribal Parks initiative the declaration of a Tribal (ICCAs). The events, which were In addition to learning about Eli Enns feels that the creation of this interconnectedness, but (herein referred to as "Tribal Parks"). Park has symbolic value co-hosted by Tla-o-qui-aht Tribal Tribal Parks through presentations environmentally respectful micro- manages Tla-o-qui-aht territory Top: Sea otter The May 15th celebration began that translates directly into (Thomas Kitchin/ Parks, brought diverse groups and formal dialogue, the participants economies in all areas is more based on this connection. The with a feast, attended by several action.” First Light). Middle: of people together to share were invited to the Big Tree Trail, effective. participants left Clayoquot Sound Wah-nuh-juss (Annie hundred Tla-o-qui-aht, Ahousaht, Joe Martin, who played a George). Left: View experiences, and discuss challenges one of the central features of Meares Near the end of the Congress, a impressed and humbled by the and community members. The central role in the blockade from Lone Cone in land and resource management. Island Tribal Park, so they could small group of participants joined powerful environment, and by the on Meares Island meal was followed by opening and served as co-founder (Martin Krykorka). Right: Representatives from Tribal Parks experience Tla-o-qui-aht territory for Enns on a hike up Wah-nuh-juss proud people who steward it as remarks by Jack Woodward, the of Tla-o-qui-aht Tribal Parks Kakawinshiilth - had the chance to highlight self- themselves. (Lone Cone Mountain), the highest they Becoming a killer lawyer who represented the Tla-o- remembered those who whale (Ron Hamilton). determined indigenous ecosystem The participants were humbled peak on Meares Island. Veteran always qui-aht and Ahousaht in the case. helped protect Meares management in Clayoquot Sound. by the colossal old-growth rainforest journalist Laird Townsend exclaimed have. Woodward was welcomed warmly and have since passed on. Participants were awestruck as they walked along a boardwalk that Machu Picchu was the only by the Ha'wiih of both Nations, and Martin, a master canoe by the beauty of the region, and constructed by Tribal Parks place he had been that rivaled he in turn acknowledged the role carver and Tla-o-qui-aht were further impressed by the Guardians, the Tla-o-qui-aht people Clayoquot Sound in beauty. At the of indigenous leadership in winning historian, spent three months way that traditional Tla-o-qui- who proudly work to improve peak, before a breathtaking view of Law should come from Nature our mothers and our elders speak to us, which means, “Real live human beings”. in a meaningful way to the day-to- which they continue to do throughout As Quu-us, we are a link between day governance of our traditional our lives. This is reflected in Hishuk-ish past and future ancestors, and have territory including sub-watersheds and Tsawaak i.e. “everything is connected, inherited all of the medicines that communities. everything is one”. To us, this means sustain life both physically and spiritually. One of the tools we have developed

Joe Martin (Eli Enns) that the world is a living system that As a link we are responsible for passing to meet this challenge is Tribal Parks. is imbued with intrinsic value and our inherited medicines onto future Tribal Parks are indigenous watershed o us, the Tla–o-qui-aht people deserves great respect. ancestors, and are accountable to them management areas designed to reflect Tour totem poles represent our The second law forms the base of and all living beings through the laws of a more integrated understanding of constitution, and how our rights each totem in our tradition, and that nature and our communities’ laws. human spirituality, human economy and responsibilities are based on is the Wolf, which is responsible for These teachings about inter- and healthily functioning ecosystems. natural laws. They help us affirm upholding the natural laws, and is seen generational accountability forms Tribal Parks aim to meet our long-term that communities are not merely as one of the most important crests. the human point of reference to the accountability to future ancestors while stakeholders, but are also rights-holders. Another common crest depicted in teaching of Quay-qwiik-sup, which is also creating sustainable livelihoods for The top crest of the in our tradition is the Raven. It reminds us about landscapes and "life-scapes" in a today’s generation. Furthermore, Tribal our tradition always features the Sun or of all the creatures that fly and walk in state of transformation. Quay-qwiik-sup Park experiences are designed to transfer the Moon crest. This is the first natural the world, and the laws of nature we all speaks to the connectivity through time ancestral knowledge to visitors traveling law and relates to respect: self-respect live and die under. This includes humans and the gratitude and responsibility to from around the world with the goal of and respect for other people and other because when we live together we have our past and future ancestors. furthering global stewardship initiatives. creatures. This teaching comes down to learn how to walk together. This law The current challenge we face is —Joe Martin and Eli Enns, Tla-o-qui-aht on us when we are inside the womb of is also present in the concept Quu-us, to apply these laws and teachings (indigenous peoples of Clayoquot Sound) fun! west coast style Here are a few listings of some folks that can make your adventure come alive! For a more complete list see Tourism Tofino tourismtofino.com( ) Tla-o-qui-aht Tribal Parks Tla-ook Cultural Adventures Best Western Tin-Wis Resort The friendly folks that manage the Meares Gisele Martin guides dugout canoe trips, Located 3 km outside of Tofino, in the Island and Ha’uukmin Tribal Parks. guided hikes to Meares Island Tribal Park and beautiful and pristine heart of Clayoquot Ph: (250) 725-3233 Big Tree Trail. Sound on Vancouver Island, BC. Positioned [email protected] Ph: (250) 725-2656 on the traditional territory of the Tla-o-qui- www.tribalparks.ca Toll Free: 1-877-942-2663 aht First Nations. WestCoast Wild Adventures Ltd. www.tlaook.com 1119 Pacific Rim Highway Come see the Ha’uukmin Tribal Park with Clayoquot Freedom Charters Tofino, BC, V0R 2Z0 Zip Line and River Kayaking Eco-Educational Moses Martin guides fishing, whale and bear Ph: (250) 725-4445 Tours. watching, custom boat tours, trips to Meares Toll Free: 1-800-661-9995 Ph: (250) 726-8668 Island Tribal Park and Big Tree Trail. Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Ph: (250) 725-2765 www.tinwis.com www.wcwild.com Toll Free: 1-866-725-2765 show your SUPPORT! Contact Premier Campbell, and let him know how you feel about having Meares Island become legally protected from industrial logging for all time. Hon. Gordon Campbell, Premier of BC Phone: 250-387-1715

West Annex, Parliament Buildings Fax: 250-387-0087 Humpback whale (Art Wolfe). Victoria, BC V8V 1X4 Email: [email protected] Credits [email protected] • 1-800-661-WILD (9453) Writing and Editing: Joe Foy, Eli Enns, Joe Martin, Torrance Coste, Matthew Sasaki, Stephanie Gribble, Andy Miller. Design: Sue Fox, Gil Aguilar. Mapping: Geoff Senichenko. I support the TLA-O-QUI-AHT I support the Wilderness Photos: As noted. Some illustrations originally published Committee’s work to in Protecting a Natural Paradise, published by the Wilderness FIRST NATIONS' TRIBAL PARK! Committee and the Friends of Clayoquot Sound, 1985. Yes! protect Clayoquot Sound Thanks to all the volunteers, Tofino residents and Tla-o-qui- Here is my donation towards the aht First Nations peoples and youth who have helped to Tla-o-qui-aht Meares Island Tribal Enclosed is: $25 $50 $100 Other $ ______build trail on Meares Island! Fed. reg. charity #11929-3009-RR0001 Wilderness Committee, Vol. 29, No 6, 2010. Canadian Park initiative. Mail Product Sales Agreement No. 0900567. Posted in I want to become a member! Enclosed is my annual fee for a: Vancouver for free distribution. Printed in Canada on Enclosed is: $25 $50 $100 Other $ ______$35 Individual Membership $52 Family Membership recycled newsprint with vegetable-based inks. Press Run 40,000 © Wilderness Committee 2010. All rights reserved. Written material may be used without permission when NAME PHONE NAME PHONE credit is given. Co-published by ADDRESS CITY ADDRESS CITY Wilderness Committee — National Office PROV Postal Code EMAILPROV Postal Code EMAIL P.O. Box 2205, Station Terminal Vancouver, BC V6B 3W2 The Wilderness Committee is Canada’s largest membership- T: 604-683-8220 F: 604-683-8229 based wilderness preservation organization. Tla-o-qui-aht Tribal Parks Box 18, Tofino, BC, V0R 2Z0 call clip call clip T: (250) 725-3233 Tel: (250) 725-3233 And send to: In the Lower Mainland And return to the:  Tla-o-qui-aht Tribal Parks  call (604) 683-8220; Wilderness Committee WILDERNESS Box 18 In Canada call toll-free P.O. Box 2205, Stn Terminal COMMITTEE Tofino, BC, V0R 2Z0 1-800-661-9453 Vancouver, BC V6B 3W2