November 2014 No

C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS NOVEMBER 2014 NO. 230 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

SSeeee sstorytory oonn ppageage 1166 MIRA NENCHEVA OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore www.caribbeancompass.com NOVEMBER 2014 • NUMBER 230 MONTSERRAT YACHT CLUB BRIAN SAMUEL

DEPARTMENTS

Info & Updates ...... 4 The Caribbean Sky ...... 36 Business Briefs ...... 9 Cooking with Cruisers ...... 38 Regatta News...... 13 Readers’ Forum ...... 39 Sailor’s Horoscope ...... 30 Calendar of Events ...... 40 Compass Comics ...... 30 What’s on My Mind ...... 40 Montserrat YC Book Reviews ...... 32 Caribbean Market Place .....42 The club that could ...... 8 Look Out For… ...... 35 Classified Ads ...... 46 Timing… Meridian Passage ...... 35 Advertisers’ Index ...... 46 … is everything ...... 22 NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, CHRIS DOYLE Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, [email protected], www.caribbeancompass.com

Editor...... Sally Erdle Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer [email protected] [email protected] Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre Accounting...... Shellese Craigg [email protected] [email protected] Advertising & Distribution...... Tom Hopman Inter-Island Style [email protected] Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings. Cargo ship trips ...... 28 See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Reach! My First Charter ©2014 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. Nail this point of sail ...... 24 And almost last! ...... 34 ISSN 1605 - 1998

Cover Photo: Beautiful Barbuda as seen by cruiser, photographer and blogger Mira Nencheva

Compass covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore.

‘One love for the Compass! It is the best in the region and I enjoy it from the first to the last page.’ — Readers’ Survey 2014 respondent

Click Google Map link below to ﬁ nd the Caribbean Compass near you! http://bit.ly/1fMC2Oy NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 &Updates Info Gazetted inJuly,anewentrytaxofEC$27(approximatelyUS$10)fortheisland Although technicallynoweffective,havingbeenapprovedbyCabinetand New DominicaEntryTaxonHold [email protected] Tel: (246)4234600 St Philip, Six Crossroads, Doyle OffshoreSails,Ltd Barbados [email protected] Tel: (284)4942569 Road Town,Tortola Road ReefMarina Doyle SailmakersBVI,Ltd British VirginIslands 30 BldAllegre Voilerie DuMarin Martinique True BlueStGeorge Turbulence Sails Grenada Roseau Dominica MarineCenter Dominica Kapiteinsweg #4 Zeilmakerij Harms Curacao Jolly Harbour Star Marine Antigua &Barbuda advanced sailspossible. the finest,mostdurableandtechnologically 50,000 miles. Our OCEANPLUSsailsareguaranteedforfiveyearsor Chaguramas AMD Sails Trinidad &Tobago Blue Lagoon Barefoot YachtCharters St. Vincent Rodney Bay Rodney BaySails St Lucia Fajardo, PuertoRico Atlantic Canvas&Sail Puerto Rico Panama City Regency Marine Panama

Built bysailmakersdedicatedtobuilding CHRIS DOYLE CHRIS

in 1991. Sir DenisHenryQC.Mr.Bristoltooksilkin1986. firm ofHenry,Henry&Bristol.In1981hebecameseniorpartnerontheretirement Windward Islands.InApril1959hejoinedFMHenry&Denistoestablishthe Attorney Generalofthe and thenAssistanttothe headquartered inGrenada, Windward &LeewardIslands, of theSupremeCourt Anguilla andChiefRegistrar Court inSt.Kitts,Nevis& Registrar oftheSupreme Supreme CourtinSt.Lucia, ing ActingRegistrarofthe he heldvariouspostsinclud- St. Lucia.From1955to1957 Salles, Miquell&Mathurinin in thelegalfirmofGordon, Caribbean asanAssociate in 1954andreturnedtothe the BaratGraysInn,England Grenada. Hewascalledto St. Luciaandeducatedin he willbegreatlymissed. great supporterofGYCand Yacht Club.Hewasalwaysa trustee oftheGrenada past Commodoreanda a briefillness.Mr.Bristolwas on September30thfollowing tal feeofEC$4perperson. Moderate overtimefeesarepayableatothertimes.Thereisanominalenvironmen- (Mondays 0800-1300and1400-1700;Tuesday-Friday1400-1600). neighboring countries. new feeswillmerelybringDominicainlinewithchargedother made bytheDominicaAirandSeaPortsAuthoritytohelpitmaintainfacilities. newspaper assayingthatthenewtaxeswerearesultofrecommendation deferred. PortsMinisterRayburnBlackmoorewasquotedinthe with variousstakeholders.AnadditionalnewEC$5portsecuritytaxhasalsobeen nation ofDominicahasreportedlybeenputonindefinitehold,pendingconsultation From 1990hewasChiefJusticeofGrenadauntilrestorationtheOECSCourt Carol Bristol,QCwasbornin Carol Bristolpassedaway Eight Bells In Dominica,therearecurrentlynoentrychargesforyachtsduringofficehours Critics saythatthenewtaxeswilldamagetourismindustry,butothers Kaya AtomZ IBS b/v Bonaire Kingston PJG Jamaica Christiansted Wilsons' CruzanCanvas USVI StCroix

THE NEW TODAY —Continued onnextpage Jamaica Observer

NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5

LIFT-ON LIFT-OFF was Mid-Fifty —Continued on next page

ce, our goal is e mobility needs mobility needs e , as well as on yachts SEVENSTAR-YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM Good Expectation Representative After departing from Rodney Bay Marina, the group explored St. Lucia’s leeward After departing from Rodney Bay Marina, the group explored At the end of the programme, the students themselves take the helm, chart the At the end of the programme, the students themselves Sail Training for St. Lucian Youth Sail Training for on youth this year started programme for unemployed Jus’ Sail’s training Jus’ Sail’s youth sail training program includes sailing on the traditional Carriacou Jus’ Sail’s youth sail training program includes sailing Sloop kindly donated by The Moorings. at Anse Cochon. Rangers from coast, first snorkeling and spending a night anchored visited the group and taught the Soufriere Marine management Area (SMMA) then The Rangers also gave the them about the purpose of the marine protected area. group the opportunity to fillet and cook lionfish. course, clean the boat, prepare the meals and generally ensure the smooth running course, clean the boat, prepare the meals and generally catamaran of a vessel during a four-day cruise. This year, the 46-foot September 8th. Managing Director James Crockett says, “Our focus is training, certi- Crockett says, “Our focus Managing Director James September 8th. with the yachting sector, along IYT) and employment within fication (through the youth of the island.” awareness amongst increasing environmental Le Marin, Martinique Phone +596 596 741 507 Contact: Nadine Massaly Contact: [email protected] DYT and Sevenstar Yacht Transport Yacht and Sevenstar DYT Yacht Transport . Why not choose the most trusted names in yacht transport for your next passage? Compass Leaders in Worldwide Worldwide in Leaders YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM goes to press, Hurricane Gonzalo struck St. Maarten/St. goes to press, Hurricane Gonzalo Sevenstar Yacht Transport and DYT Yacht Transport are the world’s premier providers of yacht transport solutions tailored to th of the yachting community. As pioneers and dedicated partners in worldwide yacht transport,to make your each yacht-shipping with over 25 years experience of experien as smooth and simple as possible, while offering you the unbeatable service you deserve. Compass

FLOAT-ON FLOAT-OFF Continued from previous page Continued from In addition to being Commodore of the Grenada Yacht Club, Mr. Bristol served as Grenada Yacht Club, Mr. Bristol being Commodore of the In addition to Three or four deaths of persons aboard yachts were reported but as yet only one Three or four deaths of persons aboard yachts were reported has been confirmed. 1 storm was reportedly owing The extent of the destruction caused by the Category Storm intensified very rapidly to people being caught off guard: what was a Tropical island estimated winds at into a hurricane. The Coast Guard on the Dutch side of 120 mph. the storm has been set up at A webpage for the identification of boats damaged in www.hurricanegonzalostmartin.wordpress.com. We’ll have a follow-up in the December issue of Martin and St. Barths on the evening of October 13th. As of this writing, estimates of evening of October 13th. As of this writing, estimates Martin and St. Barths on the from 40 up to 80. Many more were washed ashore; boats sunk or destroyed ranged some are missing. — widely recog- Senior Partner. Mr. Bristol was private practice as the He then resumed on as one of the foremost authorities the Eastern Caribbean nized throughout Conveyance law. Property and the Grenada Rotary Club of Grenada, of organizations including the the president the Grenada Bar Association and Indies Jaycees, the Grenada Jaycees, the West Sports Council. Hurricane Gonzalo As this issue of NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 by Paypalonourwebsitewww.goodsamaritanofhaiti.com. ask forlist. contact [email protected],please and construction. equipment andparticipatinginaweekofworkshopsfocusingonhealth Vache, Haiti,returningbyaroundJanuary25th.Wewillbedeliveringdonated group ofyachtstosailfromtheVirginIslandsatendDecemberIle-à- this voyagetotakeplace. Bay Marina. ence withvariousprivatesectorbusinessessuchasTheMooringsandIGYRodney Boatyard, theirSwimtoSurvivetestandinterviewspriorundertakingworkexperi- Marine Policeforce,ahalf-daytouraroundtheIGYRodneyBayMarinaand with HumanResourcesprofessionalSannyuClarke-Isaac,avisittheSt.Lucia back tohomebase. final legbacktoRodneyBaydelivered play ofdolphins. palpable amongstthecrew,whohadneverbeforewitnessedenthrallingdis- dolphins aroundtheboatasitheadednorthoffAnseLaRaye.Theexcitementwas ed activitywasquicklyrepaidinfullbyMotherNaturewhodeliveredalargepodof litter backtotheboatforlaterdisposalinRodneyBayMarina.Thiscivic-mind- source ofgreatenjoyment,animpromptulitterclean-updeliveredsixheavybags enjoyed anotherwonderfuleveningunderthestars. Anse Mahaut,theypracticedtheirswimmingandstand-uppaddleboarding clearer waters.Anhourlater,mooredMediterraneanstyleclosetothebeachat off byathickcarpetofSargassoweed,theychosetoheadbacknorthfind in aslongshecouldrememberthathadledupthetrail. climbed thefollowingday.Theguideconfirmedthatthiswasfirstgroupoflocals before donnedamask,snorkelandfins! species offish.Agreatresultforagroupamateurswhodaysbeforehadnever worldwide database.Ina30-minutesnorkelsessionthegroupidentifiedalmost30 tem thathasbeenemployedbyJus’SailandcanbeuploadedtotheNGO’s tance ofitsprotection. support ofeffortstointroducethemthejoysmarinerealmandimpor- — Donations towardsfuelandcostsoftrip,medicalsuppliesetc.gratefullyreceived, For informationaboutjoiningthetripasyachtowners,crew,orteachersplease Mandy Thodyreports:TheGoodSamaritanFoundationofHaitiisformingasmall Project: SailtoIle-à-Vache For moreinformationonJus’Sailvisitwww.jussail.com. Jus’ SailwouldliketothankTheMooringsfortheirgeneroussupportthatallowed After thecruise,studentsembarkedonacustomer-servicetrainingworkshop A stopinMarigotBayMarinatopracticedockingfortheircrewcertificatesanda The followingmorning,asathank-youtothebeautifulbeachthathadbeen Returning totheboatinearlyafternooncrewsetsailforLaboriebut,put Another nightwasspentonamooringbelowGrosPiton,whichthestudents After thelionfishlunchcrewembarkedonafishsurveyusingREEF.orgsys- Jus’ SailthanksallthestaffatSMMAfortheirengagementwithstudentsand Continued frompreviouspage Mid-Fifty withherfullcomplementofcrew 0555, [email protected]. and ithasbecomeoneofthebiggestboatparadesinCaribbean. year, dedicatedSt.Croixboatersorganizethiseventforthecommunity and checkoutlocalvendorsmusicalongtheBoardwalk. cial fun,enjoyaharborsidedinneranddrinks,wandertheshopsofChristiansted, around 5:30 Christiansted Boardwalkforthebestseating:festivitiesonboardwalkbegin Christiansted Harbor,followedbyafabulousfireworksdisplay.Arriveearlytothe launch theholidayseasonwatchingbeautifullydecoratedboatssailthrough December 13th. For moreinformationcontactSalSanpere(340)690-0006,TrishRhodes:643- St. Croix’sannualboatparadehasbeenfeaturedontheTravelChannel.Every The marineandboatingcommunityonSt.Croixinvitesresidentsvisitorsto This year’sSt.CroixChristmasBoatParadewilltakeplaceinChristianstedHarboron St. CroixChristmasBoatParade PM , withtheboatparadestartingat6:00.Tocontinueevening’sspe- NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 New rates: 1 December 2014 to 31 May 2015 31 May to 1 December 2014 rates: New at 1.5 times the standard Weekly rate. and monthly apply rates please contact a personalised us for quote. charged Multihulls are to yachtsto staying consecutively or 30 7 days for respectively. days For yachtsFor 100 above and bookings feet for LOA, of longer periods, up to 32 to up $0.85 $0.77 $0.72 up to 75 to up $1.50 $1.35 $1.28 up to 65 to up $1.45 $1.31 $1.23 up to 50 to up $1.20 $1.08 $1.02 up to 40 to up $1.10 $0.99 $0.94 up to 80 to up $1.65 $1.49 $1.40 up to 60up to $1.30 $1.17 $1.11 up to 100 to up $1.70 $1.53 $1.45 LOA in feet in LOA $/ft/day Daily $/ft/day Weekly Monthly $/ft/day making to dedicated are security hour 24 Bar, restaurant and swimming pool Haul-out and technical facilities nearby links air Excellent electricity and Water broadband Free — — sailing: your to spice little a Add this season Grenada Visit – Call 435 Danny 7431 Donelan (473) on +1 [email protected] email or – www.cnmarinas.com/plm – – – – Port Louis Marina a safe, secure provides berth with all the amenities expect a full-service from you’d marina run Camper by & Nicholsons. Our and knowledgeable well-trained staff – – — facilities world-class of combination a rare With and an authentic and unspoilt Caribbean the atmosphere, ‘Spice Island’ Grenada of is fast becoming ‘the’ Caribbean owners. destination yacht for and relaxing as stay enjoyable your as possible. NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 a populationoflessthan4,000people,theisland’seconomywasshattered. imposed inthesouthwestofisland. erupt erraticallyforaperiodof15yearsandlandmaritimeexclusionzoneswere homes destroyed,emigratedtotheUKandNorthAmerica.Thevolcanocontinued was evacuatedandabandonedtotheravagesofvolcano. to adepthof20feet.TheyachtclubhousesufferedthesamefateasPlymouth,which Hills, wassweptawaybypyroclasticflowsthatgraduallycoveredtheoldtowninash the eruptionofSoufrierevolcano.Plymouth,builtinshadow at Wapping,halfamilefromtheportinPlymouth,oldcapitalofMontserrat. at [email protected]. visit http://www.mvo.ms. — butnowwe’recool! Air Studiosisnowbackinbusiness.The Rockhasbeen“Hot,Hot,Hot”fortoolong his Socalegacylivesonandtheislandthat hostedtherockworld’sbiggeststarsat day whenbandsfromAfricaaddspiceto theblarney. Masquerade dancerswithfifeanddrum,arecentinnovation:theAfricanmusic week offestivitiesaroundMarch17thincludesatravellingDublinceilidhband, the only countrybesidesIrelandtomarkSt.Patrick’sDaywithanationalholiday. A of celebrations.OriginallysettledbyindenturedIrishlabourers,Montserratis the can beorganizedforvisitors. from IslesBayintotheexclusionzoneandtoMontserratVolcanoObservatory which hasnowbecomethebiggesttouristattractiononisland.Guidedtours cally. WiFiisalsoavailableattheyachtclubforvisitingyachts. Immigration andon-lineentrydepartureclearancecannowbedoneelectroni- port ofentryatLittleBayinthenorth. Caribbean, andwearebusyfryingasmanylionfishcancatch! club’s signaturedrinkisWeston’sHerefordshirecider,exclusivelyimportedto the The MYCaimstoextendawarmsailorswelcomeallwhovisitourshores. The to minimizethegroundswelleffectonboat. 30-foot pick-uprope.In30feetofwater,themooringsarefarenoughfromshore provide thebestholdingwith30feetofgroundchain,chainriseranda year. We’vebeenexperimentingtofindthebestcombination.Doublehelixmoorings have onescrewmooringinstalledin30feetofwaterandplananothersixtotennext Helical-screw mooringswillbeinstalledin2015at16°44’N,62°14’W.Wealready excellent indeepgravellysandalongtheone-milestretchofsandyshoreline. ate accesstowhatisconsideredthebestanchorageonMontserrat.Theholding been revivedandisnowbasedonthebeachatIslesBay.(Seephotoabove.) the islandatLittleBayandCarr’sBay. investment inthenewcapital,portandmarinawhicharebeingbuiltnorthof Office’s internationalaidanddevelopmentorganization,isresponsibleforattracting and St.Kitts on course: United Kingdomprovidedfinancialaidtorebuildtheinfrastructure. and thefactthatitisaBritishOverseasTerritory. During thisperiodofvolcanicactivitytheyachtclubbecameinactive.Reducedto More thanhalfthepopulationofislandMontserrat,theirbusinessesand In 1995disasterstruck,notintheformofatsunamiasonemightexpect,but Established in1967,theMontserratYachtClubwasoriginallylocatedonbeach For moreinformationabouttheMontserrat YachtClubcontactHank To seeamapoftheexclusionzoneandcurrent volcanohazardlevels Arrow, Montserrat’smostfamousmusical son,hasnowdepartedthisworldbut The othertouristattractionthatdrawsalotofvisitorsistheStPatrick’sDayweek The yachtclubissituatedfourmilesasthecrowfliesfromSoufrierevolcano, SailClear yachtentrysoftwarehasbeenimplementedbyMontserratCustomsand It isproposedthatwebecomeasecondportofentry,inadditiontotheexisting What Montserrathaslackedisayacht-friendlyenvironmentforvisitingyachties. Isles BayBeachBarisanewpurpose-builtfacilityfortheyachtclub,withimmedi- Dormant for15yearswhilethevolcanowasactive,MontserratYachtClubhas • andtheMontserratDevelopmentCorporationfunded,byDFID,UKForeign • anupgradedferryserviceisinoperation.FerriesconnectMontserrattoAntigua • twoairlinesprovideflightsintothenewairport • geothermaldrillingtotapthevolcano’sundergroundenergyisinprogress • anewelectricitypowerstationisbeingbuilt Today, afterapauseinvolcanicactivityofalmostfiveyears,theislandisback The peoplestoicallyawaitedtheinevitablepauseinvolcanicactivityand But Montserrathadtwothingsinitsfavour:resilientanddeterminedresidents IS NOLONGERDORMANT! by HankHenry NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 —Continued on next page

Jan, who joined forces with the Ullman Sails group in 2013, has established an Ullman Sails St. Maarten and St. Maarten Sails & Canvas is a full-service sail loft based Contact Rob and his team to find out how Ullman Sails St. Maarten can help you For more information see ad on this page. The yachting hub in T&T is a safe haven and an enjoyable place for visitors. In a sin- The yachting hub in T&T is a safe haven and an enjoyable stainless and alu- The range of yachting services includes painting and refinishing, as world-class diving and Moreover, visitors to T&T can experience activities such further developments in the A public-private partnership model is used to facilitate yacht repair and mainte- The twin-island state of Trinidad & Tobago offers premier For more information see ad on page 47. St. Maarten Sails Joins Ullman Sails operating as Ullman Sails St. St. Maarten Sails is pleased to announce it will now be his main supplier made the Rob’s strong ties and the longstanding relationship with

Trinidad: Best of Both Worlds Trinidad: Best in Yachting Industry is concentrated reports: Trinidad & Tobago’s Stacey Honoré BUSINESS BRIEFS BUSINESS switch to Ullman Sails an easy decision. “We are greatly looking forward to a highly successful association with Ullman Sails and continuing to offer the products and services in tune with the special requirements of the Caribbean.” excellent reputation throughout the Caribbean for producing high-end quality sails, ideally suited to our Caribbean conditions at affordable prices. in Cole Bay Lagoon that provides a full range of new sails and canvas for sailors, including comprehensive sail maintenance and repairs. St. Maarten Sails is one of the oldest sailmakers in the Caribbean – Rob has been sailmaking on St. Maarten since 1979. enjoy more time on the water: E-mail [email protected] or phone (721) 544-5231. gle mile of protected coastline, a host of yachting services has evolved over the gle mile of protected coastline, a host of yachting services and diverse cluster in the past few years that now make this area the most inclusive hoists ranging from 50 to entire Caribbean. Five separate boatyards provide travel 600 boats on land and 200 tons in capacity, with storage facilities for well over about 200 boats on docks and on moorings. and electrical work, minium fabrication, fibreglass work, woodwork, electronics work, propeller repairs, osmosis repairs, sail making, rigging, upholstery and canvas construction — all execut- engine repairs, other mechanical work and watermaker ed by competent professionals in the industry. in the clean clear waters exciting game fishing, kiteboarding and cruising, mainly enjoy fine dining and multi- and serenity of Tobago. While in Trinidad, cruisers can multi-cultural festivals ethnic cuisine, lively entertainment, adventurous eco-tours, and events and visits to multiple historical sites. one private sec- industry to ensure maximum cruiser satisfaction. Two organizations, and the other public sector tor (Yacht Services Association of Trinidad and Tobago) to provide the regulatory and (Yachting Steering Committee) work closely together position as the most idyllic institutional framework that advances Trinidad & Tobago’s location for cruisers in the Southern Caribbean. natural beauty coupled with nance services, a safe haven for boats and yachts and come and experience the the warmth of a multicultural society. You are invited to best of both worlds! Sails group earlier this year, Maarten. Owner Rob Gilders opted to join the Ullman African manufacturer, Jan retaining his highly successful association with its South Sails). Reuvers at Ullman Sails South Africa (formerly Jannie Reuvers the Chaguaramas Bay area, which contains many marinas and a plethora of pro- many marinas and a plethora Bay area, which contains the Chaguaramas prices. These services at competitive repair and maintenance viders of first-class with a modern business environment, a unique cultural advantages, complemented is geographically located below the hurricane belt, diversity and the fact that T&T many cruisers who sail to the Caribbean. make it an ideal location for NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10

CHRIS DOYLE — opening andlaunchingofthehotel marinabyDecember2014. these Rules.” more inlengthshallcarry,onboardand maintainforreadyreference,acopyof management regulations,andotherpertinent regulationsforUSwaterwayusers. their respectiveannexes,bridge-to-bridgeradiotelephoneregulations,vesseltraffic Regulations Handbook supersedes commandantinstructionM16672.2D. to SanBlas. sistent andoccasionallystrong.Thisshouldensureafastexhilaratingpassage repair servicesisbasedinoraroundtheport. ran launchingtrolley).Aswellasthehauloutfacilities,awiderangeofmarineand and facilitiesfortheliftingoflargervessels(55-tontravelift,18-metre/20-toncatama- education andinformation;environmentalmanagement;safetyservices. earned BlueFlagstatusforitseffortsinmaintaininghighwaterquality;environmental the Caribbean,with750pontoonberthsand100moorings.ThetownofMarinhas its excellentfacilitiesforcruisingsailors.PortLeMarinisoneofthelargestmarinas in Odyssey science,educationandcommunityprograms. world mostaffected,andallyachtstakingpartwillhavetheopportunitytojoinour world event,whichaimstohighlightclimatechangebyvisitingthosepartsofthe Fees includedockingalongtherouteaswellfeesforCanalandGalapagos. San Blas,throughthePanamaCanaltoGalapagosandonfinishinMarquesas. Florida onJanuary10th,2015,andfromMartinique18th.Yachtswillsailtothe Sailing Events,forsailorsboundtheSouthSeas.Wewillhavetwostarts,fromKeyWest, ed andtheyareworkingfine!” priority list.”Laughing,headded,“Reportsare,thenewtoiletshavebeenwelltest- we areseriousaboutservice.Inthisregardcleanshowersandtoiletshighonour far touseoneofthefacilitiesregardlesstheirboat’slocation. venience offive“satellite”cleantoiletandshowerbuildings,sonoonehastowalk The additionofthisblockmeansthatyachtingvisitorsarenowservedwiththecon- seven smallstoreroom/lockersislocatedatthenorthernsectionofboatyard. yachting customerswhiletheirboatsareonland. in Trinidadrecentlycompletedanothertoiletandshowerblocktobetterservetheir pening inGrenadacominguptoChristmastime.Haveagreatseasonandfairwinds! week, andaGrenadaCruisersFacebookpagewithlotsofinfo.Manythingsarehap- from PortLouisMarina. all yourbitsandpieces.WeareonLagoonRoadjustacrossthewaterroad caught out,havetogohomeforsomereason,andneedmoveyourboat—callus. shop inGrenada,alsooffersyachtdeliveryserviceforshortandlongdistances.Ifyouget Budget Marine,theofficialdealerforTohatsuOutboardsinCaribbean. and superbefficiency. mance synonymouswithTohatsu,whilealsoprovidingexcellentvalueformoney nology forworry-freeboating.It’sanenginethatwillretainthereliabilityandperfor- tination, exceptionalfuelperformancetokeepgascostsdown,andproventech- flushing. The50-horsepowerfour-strokealsohasthepowertoquicklyreachyourdes- nator andaconvenientbuilt-infreshwaterflushsystemthatsimplifiesroutineengine four levelsfrom650rpmto950rpmviatouchkeycontrol,ahighoutput21-ampalter- ern featuressuchasavariableidlingsystemtoallowtrollingspeedbeadjustedin pounds (97kg),thelightestweightmotorinitsclass.Theengineincludesmanymod- weight. Tohatsu’sall-new50-horsepowerfour-strokehaswhatyouneedatjust209 The teamatBlueLagoonhopestotarget thosewinterseasontravelersforthe St. Vincent’sBlueLagoonMarinaOpening Soon This bookisavailablefromParadiseCay Publications, www.paracay.com. 33 CFR83.01(g)requires:“Theoperatorof eachself-propelledvessel12metersor The OfficialUSCGNavigationRulesbookisnowcalled Heads up,USVIandPuertoRico!AnewbookofnavigationrulesforUSwatersnow New USWatersNavigationRulesHandbook For moreinformationvisithttp://cornellsailing.com/sail-the-odyssey/pacific-odyssey. Sailing conditionsinJanuaryareusuallyexcellent,withthetradewindsbeingcon- Le Marinalsohasalargeboatyard,Carenantilles,withspaceforaround200boats The PacificOdyssey2015’sMartiniquestartwillleavefromPortLeMarin,chosenfor This yearPacificOdysseyyachtswillbepartoftheBluePlanetround-the- Doina Cornellreports:ThePacificOdysseyisanewannualrallyorganizedby Pacific OdysseytoDepartfromMartinique For moreinformationonPowerBoatsvisitwww.powerboats.co.tt. Don Stollmeyer,PowerBoats’CEOremarked,“Wedon’tfoolaroundwhenwesay The newblock,comprisingtwotoiletsandshowers(bothwithhotwater)plus Following theconstructionofalargeshowerandtoiletblocklastyear,PowerBoats More FacilitiesatPowerBoats,Trinidad For moreinformationseeadinMarketPlacesection,pages42through44. Look forwardtoseeyouallinGrenadasoon.Thereisagoodnetat0730,sixdays We canalsolookafteryourboatlongandshortterm,wehavestorageshedsfor Danny Grayreports:NautiSolutions,yourone-stopservice,weldingandfabrication Nauti SolutionsGrenadaDelivers! For moreinformationonBudgetMarineseeadpage2. It’s avaluableadditiontotheexistingfour-strokerangeandnowalsoavailableat What isonethingeveryboaterlooksforinanoutboardmotor?Thelightestpossible Budget MarineOfficialDealerforTohatsu Continued frompreviouspage . Itcontainsinternationalandinlandrulesoftheroad Navigation Rules& —Continued onnextpage NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 0'' XFCTJUFGPS &/+0: $0.& $IFDLPVUPVS 5)&'6/ 40$*"-&7&/54 '3* 4"546/ TH will receive prizes for will receive prizes for will also receive overall will also receive overall IGY RODNEY BAY MARINA RODNEY BAY IGY (Silver Sponsor) are offering on berthing fees for participating boats from other islands. - NOVEMBER 30 will race together for will race together for TH 28 - SLYC SAILING CAPTAIN email: [email protected] SAILING CAPTAIN - SLYC if completed - REGATTA COORDINATOR - REGATTA US$100.00 $MBTT+$MBTT on handicap daily and overall prizes 1st, 2nd & 3rd prizes for 1st, 2nd & 3rd t'PSB/*/&3"$&4&3*&4UIF4VSQSJTF t5IF4VSQSJTFBOE+$MBTT t3BDJOH$SVJTJOH$MBTT:BDIUT &OUSZ'FF %JTDPVOU entry forms are submitted by November15th. Friday CONTACTS: "OOF1VSWJT email: [email protected] tel: 1(758) 488 5447 'SFESJD4XFFOFZ XXXTUMVDJBZBDIUDMVCDPN NOVEMBER 4QPOTPST *ODMVEF Continued from previous page Continued from On site the amenities include: Yacht Charter Operations by Horizon and Tradewinds Island Tours Dive Shop Gourmet Super Market Café and Bakery Beach Bar by Flowt Deep Sea Fishing Charters Car Rentals Laundry Services Dockside fuel: Diesel, Gasoline and Oil Garden Pool Free Wifi …and more! one with the ability to pro- The Blue Lagoon Team is a very able and functioning and follow us on For more information visit our website http://bluelagoonsvg.com These travelers would be the first to stay in their 19 spacious, ocean-view guest in their 19 spacious, ocean-view would be the first to stay These travelers island of complex on the beautiful is the only hotel-and-marina Safe to say this to not undergoing major refurbishments year the property has been Over the past vide for all future customers needs. Twitter: @BlueLagoonSVG. See ad on page 21. rooms equipped as an ideal and comfortable living space. The team welcomes living space. The team as an ideal and comfortable rooms equipped with a Vincy-style rum punch. arriving guests which is nine south end of St. Vincent, is located in Ratho Mill on the St. Vincent. It acquired by known as CSY, has been The compound, formerly miles from Bequia. Kelly Glass. New Zealander surround- docks and the entire property’s and hotel itself but to the only the rooms is that Blue Lagoon has now been declared a ings. One of the major changes will be equipped with a fully functioning Customs and brand new port of entry and set to open at the end of this month. Immigration office, which is — NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 Log onto To joinThe NatureConservancy. makeadifferencethatlasts, ourmissiontoprotectthefutureofnaturalworld. Support lost forever. alllifecouldbe thatsupport alter theplanet.Andhabitats Climatechangewillirreversibly willbecomescarce. resources predictthatwithin100years,naturallandsandwater Experts about placeslikethis. stories tell yourgrandchildren One day, youmayhaveto Rock IslandsintheRepublicofPalau.Image©JezO’Hare www.nature.org today or call todayorcall (800) 842-8905. (800) NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13

PM 2015 2015

goes to press, a record num- goes to press, Compass 29 Jan - 3 Feb - Go, go, go at St. Lucia’s Mango Bowl! As this issue of As this issue of For more information visit www.routedurhum.com. Cruisers Flotilla St. Lucia’s Atlantic Rally for Lucia’s ARC Flotilla 2014 Alana Mathurin reports: St. The flotilla is organized by the St. Lucia Tourist Board, The flotilla is organized by the For more information contact Mango Bowl Welcomes Massey United Insurance as Dee Lundy-Charles reports: As St. Lucia Yacht Club November, sailing between St. Malo, France and between St. Malo, France November, sailing Guadeloupe. Pointe-à-Pitre, of this have entered the tenth edition ber of 91 boats a in five classes. Entries include event, to race 19-year- and skippers range from 40-metre multihull, Sir Robin to 75-year-old sailing legend old Paul Hignard on The race departs St. Malo Knox-Johnston. set by The current course record, November 2nd. 7 days 17 Lemonchois in 2006, is Frenchman Lionel hours and 19 minutes. 23rd starting at 1:00 will take place on November parading from Castries Harbour to Rodney Bay Marina parading from Castries Harbour of the 29th edition of the to celebrate the official start from Las Palmas, Gran Atlantic Rally for cruisers (ARC) craft are welcome: big Canaria to St. Lucia. All water boats, Hobie cats, yachts, small yachts, pleasure and more — we motor, Lasers, Fireballs, fishing boats sail, windsurf and kitesurf! Rodney Bay Marina in St. Lucia Yacht Club, and IGY Rally for Cruisers. Last cooperation with the Atlantic 62 entries and more year the ARC Flotilla attracted is free for non- than 300 participants! Registration takes place at IGY Rodney branded boats. After-party be live entertainment and Bay Marina where there will lots to eat and drink. [email protected]. Gold Sponsor counts down to its third Mango Bowl Regatta (MBR), an impressive lineup of sponsors have come onboard to support the island’s only international regatta, which this year takes place in Rodney Bay from November 28th to 30th. —Continued on next page

JAMES LITTLE

Gr n a!

in e ad Spice it up up it Spice

• Racing for a cause, not just for trophies or personal cause, not just for trophies • Racing for a Boats. It aspire to having No Shouting • We should all participa- regattas would attract the • Improving the • No matter what — have fun! Leukemia Cup regatta For more information on the ON THE HORIZON… Route du Rhum Bound for Guadeloupe single-handed The Route du Rhum transatlantic This is especially important for safety. This is especially reaches well the entire community and gain, engages community. beyond the sailing the crew and in the morale of makes a big difference tactical maneuvering. and and racers from the region tion of boaters Grenada. opportunity for tourism in beyond, a huge visit www.leukemiacup.org. four years in yacht race takes places every www.grenadasailingweek.com www.grenadasailingweek.com

, along with Judy Diamond, Jim Little placed second in her class.

NEWS Paradiso Paradiso

“On my way back to Richmond I had a couple of • Radios on our boats would create more order and The sailors and volunteers at the regatta each had a Cuthbert, a trustee with the Carriacou & Petite

Carriacou Sailor at US Leukemia Cup Carriacou Sailor at US Leukemia competed in theCarriacou sailor Cuthbert Snagg REGATTA REGATTA 2014 Leukemia Cup participants and fundraisers, Team Paradiso: (left to right) John Leary, Melody Robinson, David Robinson, Judy Diamond, Cuthbert Snagg and Jim Little hours to think about our regattas back home in Carriacou. The Leukemia Cup Regatta was definitely something to learn from,” Cuthert adds, suggesting the following: better communication to and from the stake boat, and between racing boats, than our loudspeakers. personal connection to or personal involvement with blood cancer. Cuthbert crewed on David Robinson’s 30-foot and John Leary. David was diagnosed in 2010 with a rare form of lymphoma for which there is no known cure. Martinique Cancer Society, says, “I was racing for more than experience. I was racing for four people in my life who were personally affected by cancer: Alan Stracke, Joe Palmer, Margaret Brooks and my wife, Margaret. Now that I know more about Captain David’s struggle with lymphoma I should say that I was racing for him as well… Different water in a different place, but I took Carriacou with me throughout the day.” 21st annual Leukemia Cup Regatta, held in Alexandria,21st annual Leukemia Cup helped raiseVirginia in September. The event research. Over 60 boatsUS$172,000 for blood cancer to support the Leukemia &raced, each raising money million has beenLymphoma Society. Over US$3.2 21 years ago.raised since the event was founded NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 team fromrestaurantandnightclubvenueDelirius, music andbarbecue,aidedabettedbythe Club willbethrowingamassivebeachpartywithlive Saturday nightaftertheDay1results,StLuciaYacht this yearonthecatamaran Free SpectatorBoatonbothdays,hostedonceagain James BenoitfromGrenada. have beenaddedtotheteamofraceofficialsledby and ofcourse,St.Lucia.Twoon-the-waterjudges Martinique, Barbados,Grenada,St.Maarten,England 30th, andteamsarealreadysignedupfrom Reduit BeachinRodneyBayonNovember29thand more than40yearsintheregion. Caribbean sailorsandwatersportsenthusiastsfor Island WaterWorld,themarinestorethathasserved for everyboatregistered. the crewswellhydratedbyprovidingacaseofwater cial, andBlueWaterswillonceagainincludekeeping tribution toMangoBowlispracticalaswellfinan- since itsinceptionin2012.AsSilverSponsor,theircon- brand, willalsocontinueintheirsupport,astheyhave ties ofthesport. munity toexperiencethejoysandcareeropportuni- to helpdisadvantagedchildrenfromthelocalcom- sailing atSLYCforthepastfiveyears,andcontinues been committedtosupportingandsponsoringyouth the Day1RacingResults.Themarinacompanyhas continues asSilverSponsor,andwillbethevenuefor Island GlobalYachting’sIGYRodneyBayMarina St. Lucia. newcomers totheisland’smarinetourismsector,Dive is showingintheevent. ularly delightedattheconfidenceUnitedInsurance across theboard,soMBRorganisersarepartic- island hastighteneditspursestringsforsponsorship comes atatimewhentheprivatesectoron Their participationasthekeysponsorthisyear their corporateresponsibilitystrategyinSt.Lucia. competitive sailingisarelativelynewinclusionto ence insupportingyouthandsportsactivities,but 2013. Theinsurancecompanyhasastrongpres- Gold Sponsorinacollaborationthatcontinuesfrom — The socialsideoftheweekendwillincludeusual Five classesofvesselswillparticipateintheracingoff Bronze Sponsorsforthisyearwillonceagaininclude Blue Waters,St.Lucia’sfavouritebottledwater In anongoingpartnershipwithSt.LuciaYachtClub, Silver sponsorsforthisyear’sMangoBowlinclude For 2014,UnitedInsurancewillheadtherosteras Continued frompreviouspage beautiful SaintLucia. through itsrestaurants,shopping,andresorts.Immerse yourselfinaluxeyachtingadventuresimply mystique. Ofcourse,nogetawaywouldbecomplete withoutexploringtheluxurioussideofSaintLucia Must-see divespotsabound,andthereareplentyof hiddenbayswhereyou’llcreateyourownCaribbean Petit andGrosPiton.RodneyBayinvitesanighton thetown.OrchooseMarigotBayforachicexcursion. ing scenerythatattractstheﬁnestyachtsfromaround theworld.Dropanchornearmajesticpeaksof warm andsoothingnortheasttradewindsprovideideal sailingconditions.Yet, it’s SaintLucia’s breathtak- The islandofSaintLuciawasmadeforseafaring–orperhapsit’s theotherway around.Theprevailing Endless Summer . On

PETER MARSHALL expected in2015. proved suchasuccessthatanevenbiggerentryis format andplentyofrecord-breakingopportunities.It January 16ththrough24th! for theMountGayRoundBarbadosRaceSeries2015, and restaurantsinceSeptember. who havebeenmanagingtheSLYCClubhousebar This eventwasre-launchedin2014withanewrace Planning nextracingseason’scalendar?Signupnow Mount GayRoundBarbadosRaceSeries2015 For moreinformationseeadonpage11. Drop Anchor andEscape France: Saint Lucia: w w w w w w . . s s t t l l u u 33 145320254 c c i i a a 7584524094 n n o o w w . . c c o o —Continuedonnextpage draws istheopportunitytobreakrecords. the restofCaribbeanseason.Onebiggest race teamskeentousetheeventasawarm-upfor with theSuperyachtChallenge. races, andafinal300-milesprinttoAntiguatieup Gay RoundBarbadosRaceplusaseriesofcoastal Gay, theSeriesencompassesestablishedMount tion withtheBarbadosTourismAuthorityandMount m m The MountGayRoundBarbadosRaceSeriesattracts Organized bytheBarbadosCruisingClubinassocia-

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NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15

DEREK PICKELL IWW Grenada Sailing Week 2015 — January 29th Sailing Week 2015 — January IWW Grenada busi- most prestigious yachting One of the world’s yachts can have several races per day, and Classics several races per day, yachts can have an eclectic Carriacou Sloops make up and traditional as Grenada. regatta a flavour as spicy mix, giving the on board. boats welcome sailors Many of the local 3rd — is based at two venues: through February Prickly Port Louis Marina and Camper & Nicholsons are people staying ashore logistics Bay Marina. For apart. marinas are just a few miles easy; the two Port Louis in 2007, trans- nesses, C&N Marinas opened amenities. The heart of forming Grenada’s yachting with six-metre draught the luxury marina is 170 berths suitable for superyachts. —Continued on page 45 Yacht racing in Grenada dates back to the 1950s in Grenada dates back to Yacht racing put great effort into The regatta committee has for the Caribbean. There are a number of Caribbean There are a number of for the Caribbean. of the grow- the season and one regattas throughout Island Water World Grenada ing regattas is Sailing Week. in Sailing Week was only established but Grenada ever since. been growing in popularity 2012 and has entered last year, from France, Thirty-six yachts Spain and Austria, Great Britain, Australia, Canada, as from a number of the USA, as well Caribbean islands. for a variety of sail- organizing well-managed racing crews that don’t want to ors. The Fun Fleet is ideal for and Racing Class take racing too seriously. Cruising ; the Farr 65 Spirit of says he will be back Baleria and and are the current outrightare the current BOSS Cuba Libre Monster Project ; and Ralph Johnson’s Beneteau 53 ; and Ralph Johnson’s Beneteau Monster Project Monster Project ; two TP52s, — overall winner of Racing Class 2014. — overall winner of Racing Continued from previous page Continued from Other teams already lined up for the 2015 event Other teams already lined racing, the Series For teams looking for one-design Interest is building among other smaller classes, multi- As expected at the home of Mount Gay Rum, fine For more information see ad on this page. Island Water World Grenada Sailing Week Louay Habib reports: As autumn falls across the The headline event is the 60-nautical-mile Mount Mount event is the 60-nautical-mile The headline aboard the and his Mount Gay team Raphaël Grisoni Adventure Spirit of Juno Rapajam monohull round Barbados record holders with a time of Barbados record holders monohull round Andy Budgen, owner of4 hours 42 minutes 28 seconds. the charter yacht edition of the race.in 2015 to compete in the 89th is arguably the best ofBudgen commented: “This event the fantastic racing andthe circuit not just because of Most of the eventlegendary parties, but also logistically. means you don’t needis run from one location, which the island if you don’tto have to travel miles round to pick up a charter,want to. Even if we don’t manage defend our title for sure.” we’ll be back in January to include two VO60s, local J/24 fleet. This sort of offers the super-competitive for this exciting class. The short-format regatta is ideal of ten boats, and 2014 event attracted a fleet local boats available for although there are several charter, the organizers are keen to enhance the number of entries by offering a special shipping package deal for teams from the UK. hulls and windsurfers, too. Charles Hunt, who set a new windsurfer record in 2014 with a time of 7 hours, 59 minutes 10 seconds, will be joined by at least one other: Fabi Cornic. Caribbean hospitality will be in full flow throughout the week with a party every night, including the legend- ary Mount Gay Red Cap party. Following the success of the lay-day activities in 2014, the organizers have lined up another Barbados Polo Club exhibition match, and a visit to Mount Gay Distilleries. Northern Hemisphere, an estimated 2,000 yachts head Gay Round Barbados Race on January 21st, in 21st, in Race on January Gay Round Barbados records. race to set Round Barbados which teams all of which 14 record categories, There are currently Extra Old weight in Mount Gay offer the skipper’s Rum if broken. British VO70 — NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 byMiraNencheva THREE REASONSWHYNOTTOSAIL would beGuadeloupe,tothesouth.Barbuda,awayfrommainroadandwith anchorages andpopularhurricaneholes,withallsortsoffacilities.Nextlogicalstop twice thesizeofBarbuda,cruisercanchosefrommyriadbigandsmallsheltered south toGrenada,thereasonablecruiserstopsinAntigua,notBarbuda.In main highwayandheadinthewrongdirection.ComingfromSt.Maartengoing GPS, manyunfamiliarwiththeareastillprefernottorisksailingthere. mere 125feetabovethesea,untiltheyreachedshoals.Today,intimesof And eventhosesailinginbroaddaylightwouldn’tseetheisland,itshighestpointa blackness ofnightfoundtheirfinalrestingplacenearthereefsaroundBarbuda. of thebiggestperilstonavigationinWestIndies.Hundredsboatslost of rockandjawscoralreadytosnatchanothercarelessvessel,wasfearedasone avoid Barbuda. why bother?Barbudais: Only 25nauticalmilesnorthofAntigua,yetcruisersrarelyventurethisway.And BIG Moreover, Barbudais“offroad”.Tosailtomeanstaketheexitfrom In thetimesofsextant,Barbuda,lurkinglowbeneathhorizonwithclaws These arethethreemainreasonswhyboatersdreadand 3) flat,andhasveryfewweather-protectedbays. 2) awayfromthemainCaribbeanCruisingHighway, 1) dangerousfornavigation,

CHRIS DOYLE TOBARBUDA the corneralmostunnoticed,small,shy,andunpopular. schoolchildren. Barbudaisoneofthosethatremainin the Caribbeanislandshasitsownuniquecharacter,like ing, othersmuchmoreunknownandrelaxed,eachof or small,noisyquiet,someverypopularandeasygo- —Continuedonnextpage there arenoguests,notevenstaff.Wealone. dollar suites,wherewealthyvisitorsarrivebyhelicopter.Butatthistimeoftheyear roof. LighthouseBayisaluxuriousall-inclusiveboutiqueresortwiththousand- turtle tracks. footsteps for12miles,onlyvineswithpurpleflowers,driftwoodsculptures,andsea shells givingititsunusualpinkhuesspecificanduniquetothisplace.Thereareno and gentle. still, likealake.Therearenoswells,andthewavesthatreachshoretiny single soulformilesandmiles.Ineastwinds,theseaonthissideofislandis transparent asthewatersinBahamas.Therearenootherboatsaround.Nota and thereefs,in12to14feetofwater. and keepsailingnorthalongthewestcoast,veryclosetoshore,betweenbeach the southwestcornerofisland,sneakinbetweenbreakersandshoals, remain hiddenuntilwearebutfivetosixmilesfromthem.Wecarefullyapproach another, wecanseeourdestinationfrommanymilesawaybutBarbuda’sshores keels theentiretime.UsuallyinCaribbeanwhenwesailfromoneislandto hours andweevencatchasmalltunaontheway.It’sonly80feetorlessunder Trades aboardour38-footcatisasheerpleasure.Wegetthereinlessthanfive only acoupleofrelativelyprotectedbays,justdoesn’tmakesense. There arenobuildingsonshoreeitherexceptforasmallhotel,yellowwithred On thebeach,sandislikewhitepowderpepperedwithpinkminiaturesea- We dropanchorinfrontofthelongest,mostbeautifulbeachwatersasblueand Sailing northtoBarbudaonabeamreachfromDeepBay,Antiguainmoderate Or doesit?Wedecidetocheckitoutforourselves.

on ‘thelongest,mostbeautifulbeach’ Lighthouse BayResortsitsinsolitarysplendor DESTINATIONS NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17

MIRA NENCHEVA —Continued on next page Ivo and Maya journey along the beach to the frigatebird colony. Ivo and Maya journey along the beach to the frigatebird on a beam reach Ivo is the engine (one horsepower); Maya holds the sail

(575) 436 3601 - 435 8009 - COLOMBIA

TO BARBUDA continued from previous page continued TO SAIL NOT WHY REASONS THREE NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18

watching afrigatebirdus attempt; Mira,dancingwiththebonfireatsunset; A hawksbillturtlerushingbacktotheseaafteranesting Clockwise fromabove: MIRA NENCHEVA (ALL) NENCHEVA MIRA — spewed ashore.Itisthemarkerindicatingacut conchs andallsortsofplasticgarbagetheseahas art-like installation:apieceofdriftwoodadornedwith the beach.Wereachaspotwherethereisstrange shore foraboutamileandhalftothenorthendof and startpaddlingintheshallowsparallelto sea safelyandlivetobeathousandyearsold. May allyourhundredbabieshatchhealthy,reachthe turtle. Hopeyoufoundtheperfectspottolayyoureggs. flash thepoorcreaturesindark.Forgiveme,mama the oceaneventhoughIknowitisnotagoodideato picture beforesheentersthewateranddisappearsin started headingbacktosea?Ican’tresistandsnapa we spookher?Orshesimplydidn’tlikethespotand near abushshestopsforwhile.Didseeus? up, painfullycrawlinginthesand.Uponsandbank awe fromadistanceasthebigcreaturemakesherway shining inthesilvermoonlight.Wefreezeandwatch and looksaroundbeforeemerging,herwetdarkshell land. Ahawksbillturtlepopsherheadabovethewater spot ablackshadowinthewaterslowlyapproaching laying eggs. of theyear,thistimemonth,seaturtlesare The nextdaywejumpinthekayak,allthreeofus, In theevening,aswegoonbeachforawalk, It’s thefirstfullmoonofAugusttonight.Thistime Continued frompreviouspage —Continuedonnextpage before landing. over sixmilesperhour,coveringupto139 on thewing,withanaveragegroundspeedofjust take theirfoodinflight.Theyspenddaysandnights water, frigatebirdsneverlandontheseaandthus from otherbirds.Beingunabletotakeoffthe fish offthesurfaceofoceanandpiratesfood the tropicalseas.Anagile,silentflierhesnatches o’war bird,isalong-winged,fork-tailedblackbirdof nests, thesitehasbeendeclaredanationalpark. atebird sanctuariesintheworld.Withabout1,700 ing colonyintheCaribbean,oneofbiggestfrig- habitat forthelargestMagnificentFrigatebirdbreed- Barbuda, wherehumansrarelyventure,provide and theplaceremainssecluded. it isnotashortride.Thatwhytherenoonehere pink beachfromthemainlandisbysmallboat,and and withhighsalinity.Theonlywaytoaccessour the lagoonisdark-coloredthankstomangroves swampy area,CodringtonLagoon.Thewaterinside island’s mainlandandbiggestvillagebyashallow the westleesideofBarbudaisseparatedfrom across tothemangrovemaze. The MagnificentFrigatebird,alsoknownasman The remotemangrovesonthenorthwestsideof The narrow12-mile,pink-sandstripofabeachon NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19

MIRA NENCHEVA Visit Mira’s blog at www.thelifenomadik.com. And if you want to explore even more of the island, where horses and donkeys And if you want to explore even more of the island, absolute tranquility and Turquoise waters, coral reefs, sea turtles, pink beaches, 2) True, the island is away from the main Caribbean Cruising Highway (as I call Caribbean Cruising Highway is away from the main 2) True, the island except two bays around Barbuda, are not many weather-protected 3) True, there roam free, take your dinghy or the water taxi across the lagoon to Codrington. There roam free, take your dinghy or the water taxi across the and you can check out the are beautiful cliffs and caves at the edge of the highlands of the few restaurants where ruins of Codrington Estate, the Darby Sink Hole, or one charcoal-grilled lobster in you can enjoy traditional local dishes including the best the region (and most probably in the world). sculptures, beach fires, seclusion, a mangrove maze, nesting frigatebirds, driftwood food, unforgettable sunsets, caves, cliffs, a small quiet village, authenticity, good you need to sail to Barbuda? unforgettable moonrises: how many more reasons do best diving and snorkeling spots around Barbuda. snorkeling spots around best diving and hordes of noisy crowded anchorages and means that there are no it), but it only on top of that! unspoiled beaches, pink there are secluded, pristine, tourists. Instead not interested remain unpopular. They are Barbuda like their island to The people of more interested and McDonalds. They are development, big hotels, much in tourist water and land. tranquility, tradition, and clean in peace and you can anchor and prevailing tradewinds side, but in calm weather on the south and the reefs, west side between the beach anywhere on the safely and comfortably in wintertime when a northerly descends, are you better in excellent holding. Only off some other place.

CHRIS DOYLE at anchor in ‘absolute tranquility’ S/V Fata Morgana Right: Continued from previous page Continued from 1) True, the reefs are dangerous for navigation, but with an adequate chart, a GPS, 1) True, the reefs are dangerous for navigation, but with As we are eating fire-roasted potatoes and sipping white wine, the full moon watch- As we are eating fire-roasted potatoes and sipping white By early afternoon we are back on the boat. After splashing in the warm crystal- By early afternoon we are back on the boat. After splashing We spent over an hour paddling in the mangrove maze surrounded by hundreds We spent over an hour paddling in the mangrove maze To visit the frigatebird sanctuary in Barbuda you can hire a local guide from you can hire a local sanctuary in Barbuda To visit the frigatebird Above: The anchorage at Low Bay. Codrington Lagoon is just on the other side Above: The anchorage at Low of the beach a depth finder, and the good old eyeball technique, you will be fine! Once anchored, a depth finder, and the good old eyeball technique, you maybe even treasure chests the reefs teeming with fish, with their many wrecks, underwater. You may find the waiting to be found, are safe and beautiful to explore ing over us, turtles crawling out of the sea in the darkness, black birds sleeping in ing over us, turtles crawling out of the sea in the darkness, the reasons why sailing to the branches of the mangrove world, we are counting Barbuda is in fact a good idea. blue waters, a math lesson, and some rest, we decide to make a fire on the beach blue waters, a math lesson, and some rest, we decide driftwood are perfect for full- around sunset. Barbuda’s deserted beaches rich with in general. We think they are moon-celebration fires. We love beach fires and fires a great excitement build- fascinating and have their own short lives, and it is always ing them, lighting them and watching them burn. of nesting frigates, their white heads with long beaks popping up from the bushes of nesting frigates, their white heads with long beaks kites watching us suspicious- like curious blossoms, or hovering above us like dark and chattering, telling us ly as we were watching them with amazement, clacking something important but, alas, incomprehensible to us. Codrington who will take you there by a small motorboat. Or, if you have time and small motorboat. Or, if you will take you there by a Codrington who the north corner the beach, all the way to take your kayak along muscle, you can it across to the with ocean garbage, drag the driftwood decorated until you reach noiselessly its bird sanctuary, exploring and paddle inside the mangrove lagoon much time in the will be able to spend as shallow channels. Thus, you many narrow wish, for free, like we did. colony as you — NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 Tevin Cupid, Emmanual Forde, and Keon Forde. Tevin Cupid,EmmanualForde,andKeonForde. Janelle Alexander,TarikSamuelCupid, Philman Ollivierre,ShandyJohn,AkeemAlexander, pating intheOpenWatertrainingwereAundreWilson, open waterexperience.TheyouthsofMayreaupartici- dives. Theyreceivedthoroughpracticaltrainingand water training,openand includes knowledgedevelopmentandtheory,confined without supervisionbyadiveprofessional.Thiscourse knowledge andskillstheyneedtodivewithabuddy certification course. moved ontocompleteanOpenWaterSCUBAdiving Committee, tenoftheparticipantsinworkshop the workofMayreauRegattaandSporting Environment Facility’sSmallGrantsProgramand Mayreau. ThankstoTheUnitedNations’Global shop to23youngmenandwomenfromtheislandof Dive offeredanintroductiontoSCUBAdivingwork- who willbetheterritory’sleadforinitiative. Knight, directoroftheVirginIslandsEnergyOffice, environment forthebettermentofall,”saidKarl safeguard theCaribbeanregion’smarineandcoastal opportunity tocollaborateoninitiativeswhichwill St. Vincent&theGrenadines. Puerto Rico,St.Kitts&Nevis,Luciaand Islands, theDominicanRepublic,Grenada,Jamaica, Antigua &Barbuda,theBahamas,BritishVirgin have alreadysignedontotheinitiative,including national marineprotectedsystemsby2020. 20 percentofmarineandcoastalenvironmentsas means theUSVIhascommittedtoconservingatleast Caribbean’s coastlinesandharbors.Theendorsement mote greaterregionalleadershipinprotectingthe support fromtheNatureConservancy,aimstopro- Challenge Initiative.TheCCI,launchedin2008with States VirginIslandshasendorsedtheCaribbean

[email protected] www.barefootyachts Caribbean The Open Water Diver course teaches the foundational The OpenWaterDivercourseteachesthefoundational Rachael Smithreports:Thissummer,Grenadines Grenadines DiveCertifiesMayreauYouths “The UnitedStatesVirginIslandswelcomesthe A numberofCaribbeancountriesandterritories As reportedatwww.caribjournal.com,theUnited USVI CommitstoCoastalPreservation Eco Since 1984 BAREBOATCHARTERS-FULLY CREWEDCHARTERS-ASASAILINGSCHOOL -News

Tel.1-784-456-9526 /93349144Fax.1-784-456-9238 POBox39, BlueLagoon,StVincent,WestIndies eil etl •Soes •AirTravel •HotelReservations •Moorings •Boutique •BookExchange •SurftechSurf Shop •Diesel&Propane •Restaurant &Bar •Wi-Fi/InternetCafé •Showers •Laundry • On-siteAccommodation • QuiksilverSurfWear •RefrigerationWork • IslandTours •FibreglassRepairs • Ice&Water •RaymarineElectronics • VehicleRentals • Mechanical&ElectricalRepairs • DoyleSailLoft&CanvasShop Barefoot Yacht Centre &Marine Charters were youthsfrommanyvillages.Theyspentallmorn- people showeduponSeptember24th;themajority the boatbuildingvillageofWindward.Morethan50 annual InternationalCoastalCleanupDayactivityin Carriacou andPetiteMartiniqueAffairstodotheir Lumbadive ofCarriacouwereaskedbytheMinistry contribute tocleaningourbeaches.Thisyear wide initiative.Thousandsofpeopleallovertheplanet visit www.facebook.com/epicislands. Resort isworkingtowardsobtainingcertification. three yearsagoandthebeachatOysterBayBeach yacht clubatIsledeSolobtainedBlueFlagstatusalmost which theFoundationoperateslocally. Blue FlagandinparticulartheGreenKeyeco-labels - SintMaartentoassistwiththemanagementof Day fundtoEnvironmentalProtectionintheCaribbean island, recentlydonatedUS$2,000fromitsDollar-A- (SHTA), thelargestbusinessrepresentativeon ing toprotectnaturalresources. marketing opportunityforbusinesseswhilealsohelp- hotels. Theseeco-labelsareawin-win,providing Key, whichisawardedtotourismfacilitiessuchas ing withpilotsiteswishingtojointheeco-labelGreen Hospitality andTradeAssociation,EPICisalsowork- tional sitethisyear.WithsupportfromtheSt.Maarten Operator, EPICsubmittedanapplicationforaddi- mental andsafetycriteria.AstheBlueFlagNational and Marinaeco-labeltositesthatmeetstrictenviron- Maarten toprovidetheinternationalBlueFlagBeach continuing toworkwiththetourismindustryofSt. PADI orNAUIcertificationcards. Open Watercoursewerepresentedwiththeirofficial award andthetendiverswhowentontocomplete introduction toSCUBAdivingworkshopreceivedan community efforts.Everystudentwhotookpartinthe education andparticipationinenvironmental and theresponsibilityyouthhavetocontinuetheir significance ofdivertrainingforthefutureMayreau the HonourableTerrenceOllivierrespokeabout Southern GrenadinesParliamentaryRepresentative around Mayreau. count bycapturinglionfishinthecaysandareas lation. Thesediverswillbeabletomaketheirdives taken inanefforttocontroltheinvasivelionfishpopu- Mayreau RegattaandSportingCommitteehasunder- well asenvironmentaleducation. and inspiresthemtopursuefurtherdivetrainingas these youthsasenseofenvironmentalresponsibility hope thatcultivatingaloveofdivingalsobuildsin future ofthetourismindustryandcountry.We ronment, particularlythecoralreefs,iscrucialto hands oftoday’syouth.Thehealththelocalenvi- that thefutureconditionofenvironmentisin disposed of. which weretakenbacktoUnionIslandbeproperly beaches ofMayreau,collecting17bagsgarbage, island ofBaradol.Wealsodidatrashcleanuponthe planted atotalof22almondandpalmtreesonthe area thanexpected.AlsointheCays,students Marine Park,findinglesstrashunderwaterinthis went onacleanupdiveinthenearbyTobagoCays The InternationalCoastalCleanupdayisaworld- Carriacou JoinsInternationalCoastalCleanup For moreinformation The beachatDiviLittleBayBeachResortandthe The St.MaartenHospitality&TradeAssociation Environmental ProtectionintheCaribbean(EPIC)is More BlueFlagsforSt.Maarten The courseculminatedinanawardsceremony. This courseispartofatwo-yearprojectthatthe Glenroy Adams,ownerofGrenadinesDive,stresses In additiontothedivetrainingcoursegroup virtually unspoiledresources. will resultfromthesustainableuseofSaba’srichand committed tothebeliefthatastrongerislandeconomy truly fulfillingandunforgettableexperience.SCFis with thenecessaryinformationtomakeyourvisita Shop inWindwardside,SCFareheretoprovideyou cultural heritage.BasedinFortBayandattheTrail mission topreserveandmanageSaba’snatural governmental organizationestablishedin1987witha vesting inthefuture. ment protectionmeasurestoallowsustainablehar- us tobetterunderstandconchlifecyclesandimple- conch arematureandabletoreproduce,whichallows These sampleswillbeusedtohelpdeterminewhen retrieve gonadandtissuesamplesforlabanalysis. surveys. Conchofdifferentsizesarecollectedto utilizing specializedunderwatervideorigsanddiver research intotheconchpopulationonSabaBank, with theMinistryofEconomicAffairs,isconducting import andexportofconch. the territoryofSabaaresignatories,restricting Endangered Species),towhichtheNetherlandsand CITES (ConventiononInternationalTradein year. Internationallytheconchtradeisregulatedby limit theamountofconchcaughtto20perfisher, list, whichiswhyaregulationwasenactedonSabato ing, conchhasbeenplacedontheendangeredspecies considered adelicacy.However,becauseofoverfish- Caribbean foodculture,foundonmanymenusand Beach onSeptember19th,2015! taken fromMotherNature.”SeeyouallatParadise The beachcleanupisoneefforttogivebackwhatwas activities arethebiggestthreatforourenvironment. Linky, whotransportedpeoplefromothervillages. who voluntaryprovidedtransportationfortrash,and a fan,bed,andfoodcontainers.ThanksgotoKingman, bags, beerbottles,plasticplatesandstyrofoam,utensils, bish wascollected,includingplasticbottles,tires,caps, spent cleaningunderthejetty!Morethanonetonofrub- cleanup. Accordingtoonewarden,amonthcouldbe Lumbadive teamatHarveyValejettyforanunderwater Island/Oyster BedMarineProtectedAreajoinedthe Certificate ofRecognition. Bar forasnackandtoreceiveProjectAware pants. AfterhardworkeveryonereturnedtoSundance water, gloves,fruits,bagsandgiftsforthepartici- More than40businessescontributeditemsincluding market. ing collectingtrashfromSundanceBartothefish For moreinformationwww.sabapark.org. The SabaConservationFoundation(SCF)isanon- The SabaBankManagementUnit,incollaboration The CaribbeanQueenConchisanimportantpartof Saba LimitsConchCatch Diane Martino,ownerofLumbadive,says,“Human The followingMonday,wardensfromtheSandy Sponsors wereveryresponsivethisyear,asusual. —Continued onnextpage .com NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 The research was For more information Check out the made possible through sponsorship from the US National Fish and Wildlife Foundation to strengthen coral reef management practices on the Grenada Bank. Scientific expertise was provided by the Atlantic and Gulf Rapid Reef Assessment (AGRRA) Program, an international collaboration of scientists and managers aimed at determin- ing the regional condition of reefs in the Western Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico. contact susgrenpm@ vincysurf.com. Seabird Tracking Map Caribbean seabird tracking at http:// www.atlanticseabirds. org/mafr-maps. Fuel Dock Car Rental Service 24hrs security 110/220 A/C Power Services Provisioning Beach Bar & Restaurant Service Taxi / Showers Bathrooms Charter Services Wifi Open Free “The participants spent the first four days in days in spent the first four “The participants Moliniere-BeausejourThe work covered Grenada’s for the marine pro- “This is a milestone achievement The next stage of the work is to analyze the findings, Organized by Sustainable Grenadines Inc., this was Sustainable Grenadines Organized by by and fieldwork expedition the first Grenadines-wide of Marine of the Grenadines Network for members representing Six rangers and wardens Protected Areas. in the expedi- protected areas took part the six marine with expert trainers. tion, together fish, corals they learned how to survey Grenada where scientific using a well-recognized and the sea bottom, Myles information,” explained method to gather Inc. “Following Phillips, of Sustainable Grenadines permanent monitoring the training, we established six member marine pro- sites and did surveys in the over the course of a five- tected areas, from land and day sailing expedition.” Court MarineMarine Protected Area, Woburn/Clarke’s Island/Oyster Bed MarineProtected Area, and Sandy Vincent & the Grenadines,Protected Area, and in St. Marine ConservationTobago Cays Marine Park, Mustique Marine Conservation Area.Area and the South Coast shared information andSince 2011 these six sites have conservation and sustain- collaborated to promote the that are so important toable use of marine resources local livelihoods. Now thelocal communities and to the health of coastal andnetwork is actively monitoring marine resources in the Grenadines. benefits for the tected areas and can yield far-reaching national reserves,” com- effective management of these mented Orisha Joseph, Programme and Communications Officer of Sustainable Grenadines Inc. “It has equipped the members of the Grenadines Network of Marine Protected Areas with trained staff who will be able to recognize and track changes on the reefs as they occur.” compare them with past surveys and report back to coastal managers, local fishers and communities. Sustainable Grenadines Inc. will continue to work with the marine protected areas and local communities as they consider appropriate actions based on the findings of the research. St. Vincent & the Grenadines St. Mini Mart Laundry Service Book Exchange Shop Sail Loft/Canvas Restaurant Black Pearl The public is encouraged to report sightings of nesting The public is encouraged to Report Sea Turtle Conservation Bonaire (STCB) was found- Sea Turtle Conservation Bonaire The 2013 STCB Research & Monitoring Report is now Coral Reef Health Measured Across the Grenadines Park rangers and wardens from Grenada and St. turtle sightings and habitats. Turtles were tagged and and habitats. Turtles were turtle sightings capture. All to the same area of initial safely released the Fisheries with the permission of work was done under strict & Barbuda, and Division of Antigua for the best practices and protocols adherence to of the ASTP, animals. The Coordinator safety of the handling of noted that “in general Mykl Clovis Fuller, are prohibited, so all our researchers turtles is strictly the purpose of handling methods for trained in specific stress every effort is made to minimize the study, and to the water as quick- to the animals and return them ly as possible.” or hatchings on beaches turtles, fresh turtle tracks, hotline at (268) 720- around the island to the ASTP contact the Antigua Sea 6955. For more information Turtle Project at [email protected]. the island’s marine ed in the early 1990s to protect research and moni- turtle populations. Their current standardized more than a toring efforts, which were important nesting decade ago, include monitoring conducting intensive in- beaches around Bonaire, surveys (capture-mark- water netting and snorkel turtle migra- recapture), and tracking post-breeding These techniques pro- tion using satellite telemetry. of Bonaire sea vide us with a better understanding abundance, health, resi- turtles’ breeding success, dency duration, habitat quality, growth rates, migra- tory paths, distant feeding grounds, and threats. online. Download the full report at www.bonaireturtles. org/explore/publications/files/STCB%202013%20 Annual%20Report.pdf. Vincent & the Grenadines have taken part in joint training on monitoring coral reef health. A team of rangers and wardens then travelled to each other’s parks to help complete underwater surveying work. Dockage per foot per day: Monohull $0.77 Catamaran US$1.15 Gasoline and Diesel are available dockside at the government regulated price MARINA RATES: MARINA VHF: 16 / 68 VHF: oon Hotel & Marina g

lue La Free Rum Punch for all arriving boats! arriving all for Punch Rum Free B Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina Blue Lagoon Sunsail Marine Center) (Formerly Nestled in the quiet waters in Ratho Mill, of Blue Lagoon Vincent & the Grenadines St. 1 784 458 4308 | Tel: [email protected] Continued from previous page Continued from The training course involved extensive practice in Sea Turtle Surveyors Taught in Antigua Sea Turtle Surveyors after a at www.caribbeantimes.com, As reported snorkel survey techniques, turtle spotting, capture, and recording of essential data on size, health, identification of individuals, and mapping locations of sea Awareness Group and the Jumby Bay Hawksbill Awareness Group and the Jumby Bay Hawksbill Project, who have been working to expand their research program from studying turtles on nesting beaches on Antigua and Long Island, to include stud- ies of turtles in key marine habitats. Thanks to the Sandals Foundation, the first steps have been made towards the development of an ongoing in-water monitoring program on Antigua’s endangered sea turtles. The surveys identified a number of endangered green and hawksbill sea turtles at various life stages from juvenile to adult, using sea grass and coral reef habitats within the Cades Bay Marine Reserve. Turtle mat- ing was also observed in the area. week on the water and with the expert assistance of water and with the expert week on the Conservation biologists of Sea Turtle two marine trained in volunteers have now been Bonaire, ten in their surveying turtle populations methods for The first around Antigua & Barbuda. marine habitats Bay Marine turtles within the Cades survey of sea was also southwest coast of Antigua Reserve on the a collaboration of the conducted. The effort was of the Environmental Antigua Sea Turtle Project (ASTP) — NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 side ofthebathroomdooryou’reon! but howlongaminuteisdependsonwhich like aday.Manysaythattimeisallthesame, “long winded”squallandanhourcanseem passes? Ontheotherhand,getcaughtina thing goingreallywellhowquicklytime right andyouaresailingalongwithevery- you evernoticethatwhenthewindisjust ance time;ithasalifeofitsown. that, tryaswemay,thereisnowaytobal- extremes. Butwhatmakestimesoelusiveis is totryfindthebalancebetweentwo on ouranchor;manydo!Thenormalapproach comes” wecangetstuckandgrowbarnacles we disregardtimeandchooseto“takeitas overlook agreatdeal.If,ontheotherhand, become anxious;wemovetoofastandoften essence oftime. more thanjustchronology—itisthe out. However,the“coloroftime”ismuch planning, itwouldbesimpleenoughtolay affect everythingweplananddoistime. the Caribbean.Thesinglefactorthatwill Nicaragua —makesitnearlyimpossibletoheadeastwardfromthatarea.Wind that areabetweentheeastsideofArubaandCapeGraciasaDiosattip from TrinidadtoColombiathancanbefoundtheVirginIslandsCuba. to cruisetheentireCaribbeanisclockwise.Therearemanygoodreasonsforthis. very personalwaysthatsuchreflectionallowsfor. overview ofhowwewillinvestourtimetogetthemostoutcruise—inall have inmindwillbecrucialtoourplans.Atimeutilizationplanprovidesuswithan if wewantthemostoutofourinvestment.Thetypeanddistancecruising weather” time,andsoforth. this interspersedwithhurricaneseasons,boatmaintenancedowntime,“underthe is somuchgeography,culture,manyplacesandbeauty.Allof I havecruisedit,nearlyfourdecades,neverfeltlike“seenitall”.There experience it? how muchoftheCaribbeandowewanttoexperience,and to reviewwhatwewantoutofourCaribbeancruise.Howmuchtimedohave, How longcanweaffordtocruise?farourboattakeus?Itthenservesus es andtothenreviewtheconditionofourboatsothatweknowwhatshecando. you spendyourcruisingseason?”withthekeywordbeing money canbespentandreplaced,buttimeonly account forthefundswehaveexpended,buttimeisverydifferentfrommoney: Caribbean. Weoweittoourselvesoptimizewhatwehaveinvested.can order, wefindourselvesoutoftime. nizing the“timeofourlives”. repeat, inautomaticfashion,ourwayoforga- makes usuncomfortable. as wevalueourpleasureanddisdainwhat changeable aspectoftimeplaysonourminds Time doesnotrunatauniformspeed.Did If webecomeoverlyfocusedontime, Were thisarticleonlyaboutthevalueof Shortly anewcruisingseasonwillbeginin In addition,fetchisabigfactorandtheintowhatIrefertoas“thehole”— The currentrunseasttowestatvaryingvelocities.Strongercurrentscanbefound Whether youarrivefromNorthAmericaorEurope,logistically,thebestway Be ClockwiseWise Most ofushavesomesortfinancialplan,butatimeutilizationplanisnecessary The CaribbeanSeacoversmorethan1,000,000squaremiles.Inallthetimethat For theupcomingcruisingseason,itisprobablybesttofirstreviewourfinanc- It hastakenmostofussomedegreeeffort,timeandmoneytoarriveinthe You Can’tReplenishthe‘TimeKitty’ Just whenwethinkhaveeverythingin We arecreaturesofhabitandwetendto

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RUISI C N spend G . Peopleask,“Howwill A . N

T by FrankVirgintino

—Continuedonnextpage moment isaday.” may helpyoureflectonit: depth andqualityofyourexperience.Therearequotesthatsumthisupinways time asbeingchronological.Yetthe“timeofyourlife”isreallybasedonbreadth, anathema totheveryessenceofavocation! want toaccomplishwithouteverbeingrushed—forwhilecruisingis area, allowingflexibilityforspontaneityandenoughtimetoachievewhatitisyou expressed inbroadtermsthatincludesuchfactorsasseasonalchanges. on whatareasoftheCaribbeanyouwishtovisit,andyourtimeframeis, areas offerandwhatinteresttheyhave.Youcanthensketchoutyourcruisebased a givenperiodoftime.Havingdonethat,dosomeresearchtoseewhatdifferent 3 ofthisissue 20 knotslikeclockworkeveryday. the tradewindseasonis.Bytimewegettolatespring,itnormallyblows15 lapse whenthereisnowindatall.Thetradewindmuchmoreconstanttheolder tradewinds. However,duringthetimeofChristmasWinds,therearetimesgreat and routes. wind andweatherpatternsthatshouldweighheavilyonourselectionofdestinations cane season,butinfact,thereareanumberofseasonsandtheyallhavedifferent when planning.Manybelievetherearetwoseasons,acruisingseasonandhurri-

— BenjaminDisraeli “But whatminutes!Countthembysensation,andnotcalendars,each The conceptoftimewhencruisingisdifficulttoexpressbecausesomanythink Having theTimeofYourLife From theplan,youcangetanideaofhowmuchtimewanttoinvestineach Review amapoftheCaribbean—entiresuchasoneonpage Plan theBigPicture Shortly theChristmasWindswillbeuponus:wethinkofthemasreinforced

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E T I M keywords hereare “Trades” hasabigimpactonourcruise.The seas increase.) ger risk,whichriskgrowsevenlargerasthe also safer,as“sailingbythelee”involvesbig- and allowstheautopilottodoitsjob.Itis downwind ismorecomfortableineveryway which requiresmoredistance.Tacking often wefindourselvestackingdownwind, a run.(Autopilotsdonotlikerunsandmost heading westwevaryfromabroadreachto can besailedonsometypeofreach,whereas Additionally, theLesserAntillesmostoften ceed westwardthatisoftennotthecase. can usuallyseethenextisland,aswepro- nificant. WhereasintheLesserAntillesone distance, andtimebecomesincreasinglysig- shore, drivenbylightoffshorebreezes. accomplished atnightonaporttack,in tradewind andheadingeastcannormallybe Katabatic Wind.Mostoftenitstallsthe mountainsides afterthesunsetsiscalled ranges. Thecoolingairthatslidesdownthe Antilles isframedbyveryhighmountain Greater Antillesismucheasier.The have givenup. often impossible.Manyhavetried;most heading eastfrom“thehole”difficultand stronger thanaverageadversecurrentsmake is unabated,higherthanaverageseasand the accentontime.Timeofyearin The timeoftheyearthatwesail Different ‘Times’oftheYear Add toallofthesefactorsthequestion Alternatively, headingeastwardalongthe time oftheyear —with NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 You can’t top up the ‘time kitty’, so plan carefully how and where you want to spend it — feeling the buzz of a modern marina, hanging out at a remote beach bar, or maybe doing a little of each… and more?

DAVID MORGAN , and forfeit all that is not lightly and forfeit all that is not lightly Patito Continued from previous page Continued from Frank Virgintino is the author of Frank Virgintino is the author “So deciding that the time has come to “So deciding that the time — Charles Caleb Colton — Charles Caleb I’d like to share is by the The last quote “Time is the most indefinable yet para- “Time is the most Free Cruising Guides http://freecruisinguides.com. done, and it brings to light the step yet done, and it brings to light itself.” ahead, which is giving up life sell famed author and orator William F. and orator William F. famed author lifelong sailor Buckley, who was also a it can be read and cruiser. At first glance, was selling his as somewhat morose — he the time that last sailboat — but I think the Caribbean you have before you in the light of his becomes more valuable in final thought on the subject: doxical of things; the past is gone, the the past is gone, the doxical of things; come, and the present future is not past even while we attempt becomes the like the flash of light- to define it, and, exists and expires.” ning, at once — NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 Performance Reaching Improve Your WHEN an eased-sheetreach. gain distancetowindward,maximizingthe chancesof following thecoastasfareastward possibleyou cult. Atthatpointbearoffandcrossthe passage.By up andmakesailing,motorsailingormotoring diffi- coast aroundtotheeastuntilseaand windbuild up viewoftheshorelinescenery. smooth seaandthecrewwillbeableto enjoy aclose- shore. Althoughtheremaybenowind, you’llhavea motor alongtheleecoastwithinahundredyardsof This isstilltruetoday.Boatsshouldsail,motorsailor pistol shotsdistanceofshoreorsevenleaguesoff.” the highislandsinCaribbean,staywithintwo Antilles my guideuntilIwrote Sailing DirectionstotheWestIndies getting seasick. down hardwithsprayflyinginalldirectionsandcrew eased-sheet reachratherthanhavingthesailsstrapped going tide.Thisoftenmeansthatthepassageisan lower thanifthesamepassageismadewithalee- windward of)therhumblinewillbe15to20degrees weather-going tide,thecoursesailedtostayon(or open-water partofthetripwillbemadeduringa charts. Ifinter-islandpassagesareplannedsothe tidal informationonthebackofallImrayIolaire close, beamorbroad. your timeunderwaywillbespentonareach,whether greatly increasingyourspeedonareach.Noticethemainboompreventer Leading thejibsheettoendofboomopensslotbetweenheadsails orbetweenthejibandmain, At theendsofislands,boatshould followthe Also notetheadviceofNorieandWilson1879 To maximizeyourtimeonabeamreach,studythe in 1966.Itstates:“Whensailingtoleewardof Cruising GuidetotheLesser , whichservedas the majorityof Leeward Islands, Windward and sailing the decks, underahugefullmoonthatnight. Thedelivery glorious beamreachacrosstheIrishSea, almostdry occasionally eightknots,withneutralhelm. Wehada trimming everything. on theboomvang,andplayedwithtrimming andre- outboard reachinglead,easedthemain, hardenedup sheet totheendofboom,staysail sheettothe only fiveknots.Iorganizedre-trimming, moving thejib up underhischin.Theboatwasraildown, butdoing owner hadsomuchweatherhelmthatthetillerwas were notright. a centuryIcouldfeel,lyinginmybunk,thatthings rail down,andhavingsailed later, realizingthewindhadfilledin,shewassailing airs, soIwentbacktobed.wokeupacoupleofhours Ireland’s southcoast,veryearlyinthemorninglight as sailingmaster!”WesailedoutofGlandore,on you aretheowner/skipper.ButIwillhappilygoalong to EnglandfromIreland.Isaid,“No.Youboughther; The newownerwantedmetoskipperherontrip at theendof52yearsandtwomonthsownership. perfectly illustratedby ing bothboomvangandmainsheet. the railcap,andcarefullytrimmingmain,adjust- the endofboom,movingstaysailsheetoutto ming thegenoaoryankee(NumberOnejibtopsail)to the slotbetweenheadsailsandmain,re-trim- that sheisareachingfool.Thisachievedbyopening anyone whohasracedagainstherandtheywillcertify should notbeparticularlyfastonareachbutask long, heavydisplacement,narrowanddeep.She Within anhourweweredoingsevenand ahalfand When Iarrivedondeck,discoveredthatthenew That trimmingcorrectlygreatlyincreasesspeedis Iolaire SEAWISE WITHDONSTREET , builtin1905andstillgoingstrong,is46feet Iolaire’s Iolaire deliveryafterIsoldher formorethanhalf next part. match ourwonderfuldeliverytrip. again, asnomatterhowgoodthesail,itcouldnever trip wassogoodthatIneverwanttosailon often introducedcrewstotheidea,whenreaching,of years onvariousboatsas“rock,tideandwindpilot”.I other thaninclassicregattas.Ithensailedformany sheet aboutfourfeetabovethedeck. Sheet theheadsailforgoingtowindward andmarkthe it isdifficultorimpossibletoreach,try the following. will comeuponherfeetandbegintoreally travel. opened andyouwillbeabletoeasethemain; theboat normal sheetandre-trimtheheadsail.The slotwillbe a winch.Takeuponthereachingsheet, throwoffthe forward toablockonorneartherailcap thenbackto ing sheettotheclewofheadsail,runotherend secure abecketblocktotheloop. the boom,passitbackthroughitself,pulltight,and ends oftheknot.Thenlooplinearoundend together withadoublesheetbend,andmousethe Make upanendlessloopofline,securetheends can beusedtosecurethebecketblock,allisnotlost. the gooseneck. through thebecketblockandbothendstiedoffat subsequent article.)Areachingsheetshouldbeled dead downwind.(Riggingthiswillbedescribedina as amainboompreventerwhensailingbroadoffor gooseneck viaalightlashingline.Thislineisused shorter thanthelengthofboom,securedto becket block.Thewireorlineshouldbeslightly (Dyneema orsimilar)securedtothebecketon the endofboom,awireorhigh-strengthline boom preventer.Secureabecketblocktobailon make upacombinationreachingsheetandmain “Street sheet”. through theendofboomwasreferredtoas the deck.Onanumberofboats,sheetrigged the endofmainboomthanitwaswhensheetedto discovered thattheboatwasfasterwithsheetto boom. Oneveryboat,whenspeedwaschecked,it sheeting thegenoaoryankeetoendofmain all the‘spaghetti’ You’ll needanamplebailattheendofboomfor After her80thbirthdayIretired Headsail Trim Okay, folks:brushupyourboattalkforthe If youhaveahigh-cutheadsail,withthe clew sohigh Once sheetsareeased,attachoneendofthereach- If youdonothaveabailattheendofboomthat To sheettheheadsailtoendofmainboom, Iolaire fromracing, Iolaire NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 , Iolaire by Don Street. Don , writes: “… if you plan Sell Up and Sail The Ocean Sailing Yacht After securing the telltales to the leach of the mail, start play- For the fine points on mainsail trimming consult the “North On a reach, if headsails and main are properly trimmed, the Sailing broad off or dead downwind, mizzen staysails for Bill Cooper, in his book Trim the headsails so that the telltales on both the lee and Trim the headsails so that Mainsail Trim on a reach, it is essential to To properly trim the mainsail boom, make a big long endless To secure the tackle to the the Play with trimming the main, eliminating or minimizing To properly trim the main you should have four telltales Then roll up the jib, cut the sheet at the mark, tie the two the jib, cut the sheet at the Then roll up sheet to the are eased, secure the reaching When the sheets take a line, run it double headsail rigged, If the boat is rip-stop tape necessary to make four leach telltales. Fold rip-stop tape necessary to make four leach telltales. Fold the tape in half, sticking both sides together, making a ribbon one inch wide. ing with the sheet and vang until you get all four of them flying. Once you have achieved this, the main is perfectly trimmed. If you get three flying you are doing well. If only one or two are flying, continue to play with sheet and vang. U” videos or talk a hotshot racer to go sailing with you and demonstrate how to get all four telltales flying. Note: I have found that females are excellent at sail trimming, as a woman’s attention span is generally longer than a man’s. helm should be neutral, and the boat fast and easily handled. ketches and yawls, and the use of a main boom preventer, will all be discussed in a future article. to go offshore, read is an opinionated eccentric, but he is a seaman.” Visit Don Street’s website at www.street-iolaire.com. this third sheet was always coiled in a gasket and hung on the this third sheet was always lifeline ready to use. headsails are streaming aft. If the the windward side of the headsail needs to be trimmed. If windward one is lifting, the headsail needs to be eased. the leeward one is lifting, the be adjusted. Most boats have a have a boom vang that can I do not like as the loads sky- centerline boom vang, a rig secured to the rail cap with the rocket compared to a tackle a 45-degree angle. Also with a lead leading outboard at dinghy cannot be stowed in its centerline boom vang, the on) center immediately aft of traditional place on (or almost the mast. loop it around the boom loop of line as previously described, itself, pull tight and secure the twice, pass the end through it will block for the boom vang. Looped twice around the boom not slip. twist in the main by altering tension on the boom vang. or, if secured to the leach of the sail, one by each batten leach. If there are no battens, just evenly spaced up the size of you have ribbon, cut it in lengths suitable for the If you your boat and sew them onto the leach of the sail. ask him can’t find ribbon, go to the nearest sailmaker and or her to sell you the length of two-inch-wide spinnaker ends of the sheet together with a double sheet bend, and sheet together with a double ends of the mouse the ends with with tape (old salts can mouse the ends marline). Italian tarred a snap shackle or above the knot; use either normal jib sheet re-sheet to the end Then, as described above, two half hitches. of the main boom. the line outside the on the rail cap, lead through a block of the staysail, take the load on shrouds, attach it to the clew off the normal sheet. On the reaching sheet, and throw Continued from previous page Continued from — reaching sheet clips onto the bail at the end of the boom A strop can be made by tying a length of line into a loop with a double sheet bend and seizing the ends A strop can be made by tying a length of line into a loop Iolaire’s Clockwise from top: a rope strop will serve the same purpose If the boom has no bail or other secure attachment point, NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 bloody boatwas gash recentlypatchedupwithbigdarkstitchescutacrosstheentireleftside.The interior ofaboatallcoveredwithblood,andonewoundedfacewheresurreal we werelucky.Itcouldhavebeenalotworse.” couldn’t defendthemselvesorafamilywith youngchildren.Istartedthinkingthat then Istartedthinking,Whyanyone? It couldhavebeenanelderlycouplethat and adaptstoit,learnsmoveon. used tothefactthatwhathadhappened cannotbeundone,oneacceptstheevent to avoidit.Insuchinstances,manylose faith.Onlylater,afteraperiodofgetting disbelief, ahopelessdesiretoturnback timeinordertopreventitfromhappening, trying tocopewiththeirshockandloss.Oneofthefirststagesisdenial and reason orlogicalexplanation,survivingvictimsexperiencevariousstagesofgrief, The scarwoundednotonlyTinabuttheentirecruisingcommunityandbeyond. unexpected, unannounced,undeserved.It’sthequestionthatpersists:“Whyme?” one, whichisdeeperandstillhurts.It’sthecopingwithaftermathofadisaster, year aftertheattack,andTinalooksmorebeautifulthanever.It’spsychological the othertwo,thushelpingprosecution,andwaslaterreleased. third guy,whohadn’tboarded scheduled toappearinHighCourtduringthecurrentsessionofCriminalAssizes. The harm, woundingandattemptedburglary”are,asthisissueof he was. when Tinasawherattackerclearlyforthefirsttime,shewassurprisedathowyoung 16-year-old anda17-year-old,whowerearrestedimmediately. apprehended. Hewasa15-year-oldlocalkid.turnedinthetwootherguys, Mark duringtheassault,wenttoseekmedicaltreatment,atwhichpointhewas awake. Ilostonethirdofmyblood.” started sailingtoCarriacou,thenearesthospital. were alone. in therowingboat.Theyfled. aft deck.Hejumpedofftoowhenheheardthescreaming.Athirdguywaswaiting and startedfightinginthedark.Managedtostabhimtwice.” have cutoffherhead. had beenjustafewincheslower,orthesecondhigher,hecould he slashedacrossherfaceandonceagainleftshoulder.Ifthefirstblow tion, heattackedTinawithamachete.Withtheweapon,locallyknownascutlass, hanging fromthebimini.” one othersailboatintheanchorage. heard anoiseoutside.Shesteppedoutinthecockpittocheckitout.Therewasonly Rainbow, found cats weneededabiggerboat.Westartedlookingforboatandtwoyearsago of datingheaskedme:Doyouwanttogocruising?Surething.Butwithourthree jars, preparingthecagesforBrownKingCrab. vessel term chartersintheUSVirginIslands.Sheevenworkedoncommercialfishing the oceanandboats.Later,shestartedworkingonsailboatsdoingday-sails to houselife. to joinacommunityofpeoplewithcamperscalledLonersonWheels,neverreturn mother withherVolkswagen,orangeapop-uptent.Wehadthebesttime.” a Volkswagen. to Florida. time. BornnearToronto,CanadainMarchof1963,shelatermovedwithherfamily face withthegashwasTina’s,althoughIwouldneverrecognizeitfromthatpicture. won’t happentoyou,sweetie violence, allthisblood. 11-year-old daughterwhobelievesinKarma,tomakesenseofallthisunprovoked One YearAftertheAttack Makes YouStronger: What Doesn’tKillYou We were looking with horror at two small pictures she was showing us: one of the We werelookingwithhorrorattwosmallpicturesshewasshowingus:oneofthe But youneverknow… Thinking aboutthegrislyattackthathad changedherlife,Tinaalsorealizedthat “When Iwaslyinginthehospitalremember thinking,Whyme?But In Tina’scase,thatperiodofdenialwasremarkably short.Andsheneverlostfaith. In theaftermathofatraumaticeventsuchmagnitude,forwhichthereisno But ascarremains.NottheonTina’sface:thatoneisbarelyvisibletoday, Tina gotbetterwithtime,thewoundshealedwell,lifewenton. Healing theWounds One yearlater,twoofthethreeperpetrators,chargedwith“causinggrievousbodily Why didtheydothis?Whatweretheirmotivesthatevening?Nooneknowsforsure. “I amsosorrythatyoumaimedmylife—andruinedyours.” In theSt.Vincent&Grenadinescourt,athearingbackinOctober2013, Tina wasadmittedtohospital.Thepolicemobilized.attacker,woundedby “I wasconsciousthewholetime.OnVHFtheyinstructedMarktokeepme Tina wasbleedingbadly.TheyraisedthealarmonVHFradioandimmediately The othersailboatintheanchoragehastilylefttoo.TinaandMark,bothinjured, Silence. Darkness. The intruderjumpedofftheboat.Therewasanothermanwithaspeargunon “Mark cameoutimmediatelywithafishfilletingknife,thefirstthinghecouldgrab, What happenedafterislikeadarkhazynightmareinTina’smemory. Someone hadboarded “I sawashadowinthedark.ButIdidn’tthinkofperson;thoughtitwastowel “When IfirstmetMarkfiveyearsagohehadanIrwin34, Tina startedsailingwithherparentswhenshewasakidbackinFlorida.Sheloved After sheretired,Tina’sgrandmotherupgraded.ShegotaWinnebagoandtookoff “When Iwasabouteightwewentonthesecampingtrips,justmeandmygrand- Tina firstdiscoveredthejoyoftravelthankstohergrandmotherwhohad “I grewuponasix-acreranchintheEverglades,ridinghorses.” Tina isasea-gypsy,thirdgenerationofadventurouswomenwhotraveledfull- Tina’s Story “Bad thingshappentogoodpeople,butnotallthetime,though.Don’tworry;it She smiledandadded: “Sometimes, badthingshappentogoodpeople,”Tinasaid,tryinghelpMaya,my On October3rd,2013,at8:30 Bad ThingsHappen S/V Rainbow Arctic Dawn anchored offFrigateRocknearUnionIslandintheGrenadines,whenTina S/V Rainbow asbait-girlintheBeringSea,grindingandstuffingfrozenfish inSt.Croix.WebegancruisingMay2013.” Rainbow. . ” Rainbow, , a 39-foot Westerly Sealord ketch built in 1984. The , a39-footWesterlySealordketchbuiltin1984.The by MiraNencheva Suddenly,withoutawordandprovoca- PM , MarkandTinawerehavingdinneraboard became “crown witness” and testified against became“crownwitness”andtestifiedagainst Carefree II Compass . Afteroneyear goes to press, goestopress,

MIRA NENCHEVA (ALL PHOTOS) S/V Rainbow electronic system,makingiteasiertoprosecutecrimesagainstvisitors. in courtnowhavethepossibilityofdoingitremotelyduringprocedures,viaan St. VincentandGrenada.Moreover,undercertaincircumstances,personstestifying new coastguardstationonCanouanisnowalsokeepinganeyetheareabetween government implementedVHFradiosinallpolicestations,monitoringchannel16.A she did. anchorage safetyaswelltocreateawarenessforpersonalonboard.And her misfortuneforthegreatergoodofcruisingcommunity,tryingtoimprove it isanuncommoneventthatgeneratedmuchmediaattention.Tinadecidedtouse attack hadshakenupcruisersthroughouttheworldandwaswidelypublicized,as if somethingshadbeendifferent,itcouldhaveprevented.Thenewsofthe In St.Vincent&theGrenadines,wheretourismismainsourceofincome, this issueappearin monthly copyofthe MARIGOT PHILIPSBURG COLE BAY SIMPSON BAY Ahoy, Compass Anse MarcelMarina Polypat BoatYard Marina PortlaRoyale Marina FortLouis Island WaterWorld Budget Marine Boat PaintandStuff Island WaterWorld St. MaartenSails Megayard Boatyard Lagoon Marina Lagoon Marina Island WaterWorld Budget Marine Simpson BayYachtClub underway PICK UP! Readers!WheninSt.Maarten/St.Martin,pickupyourfree Caribbean Compass bold

Coffee Shop Office (Ile Marine) ): atanyoftheselocations(advertisersin —Continued onnextpage NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 . But she didn’t , with her husband, S/V Rainbow Fata Morgana cannot be matched. Marine Insurance My claims settlement record www.street-iolaire.com insurance. You never know how good The insurance business has changed. insurance, but there is no good cheap No longer can brokers talk of low rates. Rather, the honest broker can only say, your insurance is until you have a claim. There is good insurance, there is cheap “I’ll do my best to minimize your increase!” e-mail: [email protected] I have been connected with the marine insurance business for 47 years. I have developed a rapport with brokers and underwriters at Lloyds and am able to introduce boat owners to specialist brokers in the Lloyds market. Author’s Note: All the information in this article was gathered through my conversa- Author’s Note: All the information in this article was gathered around the world and liv- Mira Nencheva, writer, photographer, wanderer, is sailing • AN ALARM SYSTEM is a great thing. There are motion and touch detectors you are motion and touch SYSTEM is a great thing. There • AN ALARM gates, an eas- bars on the hatches, of other safety measures: There are a number Still Living the Dream survived an attack aboard On October 3rd, 2013 Tina woke up to a beautiful “Yeah, back on our favorite little island! What a passage, The following is the status update I just read on her Facebook wall. Made me smile. I just read on her Facebook wall. Made me smile. The following is the status update tions with Christina Curtin and the notes I took during our talks, as well as from a few tions with Christina Curtin and the notes I took during our much, Tina! publications which Tina provided for me. Thank you so ing full-time aboard her 38-foot Leopard catamaran, Their journey is document- Ivo, and their 11-year-old daughter Maya since July 2013. and in their Facebook page ed in a travel-adventure blog www.thelifenomadik.com and pictures. Facebook/TheLifeNomadik where Mira is publishing stories such as a pepper spray or even a wasp spray, which is intended to spray wasps and which is intended to spray or even a wasp spray, such as a pepper blind an intruder. a great distance and will wasp nests from companionway cord strung across the even a simple bell on a fishing can install, but A dog will do, too. motion detector just fine. will work as a that might be information clearly visible card with the boat and crew ily accessible Also, everyone to identify and locate you. VHF radio by officials trying asked over the in case of the the dinghy, and the radio be able to operate the vessel, aboard should Discuss with all have an emergency plan. disabled. And always captain becoming possible situations and be prepared. crewmembers and guests aboard greeted by breaching whales cloud angel, we were escorted out to sea by a dolphin, night through St. Lucia, three in Martinique, the French Navy kept us company all cats) feasted happily; unfortu- flying fish boarded the boat and Jamesy (one of our underneath Mark’s bunk nately we did not find the third one till this morning biggest pod of dolphins I’ve (stinky). Yesterday morn off of St. Vincent, we saw the and Frigate Rock, the place ever seen in the Caribbean. As we sailed by Union Island the whole island. Yes, we of our attack last year, the most amazing rainbow covered Good to be back!” are blessed and yes I do believe in Angels. Hello Carriacou! stop cruising. One year later, she is still a bit jumpy at sounds, and some of the she is still a bit jumpy at sounds, and some of stop cruising. One year later, are not completely healed, but she is back on the boat, affected nerves on her face They are determined to continue living their dream, back on the water, with Mark. the Bahamas, and Florida next. planning to cruise in the Caribbean, Love you Tina!

, thanks to what happened to , thanks to what N.V. S/V Fata Morgana to Diesel Engines Right: Tina and Mark, with ship’s cat Manta, aboard their floating home Right: Tina and Mark, with ship’s cat Manta, aboard their Cel: + 1721 556 4967 Servicing Gearboxes Fuel Injector Service Accessible by Dinghy Marine Engineers Parts, Sales and Service Fuel Pump Service Agents [email protected] Airport Road 32,St. Maarten N. A. Suppliers of Donaldson Filters AND WARRANTY WORK Overhauls, Repairs and Service Marine and Industrial Generators AUTHORISED DEALERSHIP Continued from previous page Continued from But it is a good idea to have some sort of a self-defense weapon readily available, But it is a good idea to have some sort of a self-defense • WEAPONS? Tina is convinced that having guns on board is not the best idea. • WEAPONS? Tina is convinced that having guns on • NOISE. In the event of an intrusion, make noise. Any racket will do. Shout, bang • NOISE. In the event of an intrusion, make noise. Any • STAY CONNECTED. Introduce yourself to the others in the anchorage; see what • STAY CONNECTED. Introduce yourself to the others • LIGHTS on board are essential. A darker vessel is more likely to become a target• LIGHTS on board are essential. A darker vessel is more What You Can Do Something they can benefit Tina wants her story to be a lesson for all cruisers. Many sailors now have better security measures and better preparedness on measures and better preparedness now have better security Many sailors Overall, thanks to heightened awareness on the part of both the authorities and on the part of both the authorities to heightened awareness Overall, thanks DIESEL OUTFITTERS Above: Tina. You can’t keep a good woman down! Often they are confiscated by the Customs officials upon entry and returned upon Often they are confiscated by the Customs officials upon it might just bring more vio- leaving the country. But even if you get to keep a gun, a gun at you, a shootout is lence. If you pull a gun at someone who is also pointing inevitable and you might get killed. on a metal pot, blow an air horn, ring a bell — anything that will not only scare the on a metal pot, blow an air horn, ring a bell — anything uninvited person, but will also be heard by all neighbors. VHF channel they are monitoring and make sure you keep the radio on at night to VHF channel they are monitoring and make sure you in sensitive areas. be able to call for help if necessary. Avoid lonely anchorages than a vessel with some lights on. Lights should be installed in the cockpit with thethan a vessel with some lights on. Lights should be installed If a vandal tries to board thepossibility to switch them on from the salon or the cabin. and run away. A brightboat and you turn the lights on, chances are he will get spooked location to a shooter. flashlight might blind intruders, but it also pinpoints your from. Yes, bad things sometimes do happen to good people, but in many cases they from. Yes, bad things sometimes do happen to good people, can be prevented using appropriate measures: board, including us, the crew of board, including the cruising community, many anchorages are today safer than ever: the positive are today safer than ever: many anchorages the cruising community, event. effect of a terrible three other boats Tina, with the help of as she was out of the hospital Tina. As soon Grenada Port Louis Marina in St. George’s, a meeting at the and friends, organized procedures crime prevention and security showed up to discuss where 200 cruisers on boats. — NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 think abouteatingagain.Theonlysilverliningwas ly seasick—asadawg!Eat,puke,andthendon’teven twice before,onthatparticularvoyageIwasconstant- all theway.EventhoughIhadcrossedAtlantic ing: directlyintowindandcurrent,rockingrolling to containafairamountoftheeffluentvessel. with afootofswashingbilgewater,whichalsoseemed ture downthere;foronethingtheholdwasawash boat, butyouneededareallystrongstomachtoven- accommodation holdbelowdecksatthebackof tress andhopeitdoesn’train.Therewasasort-of someplace underthestars,laydownyourfoammat- sage. Whichmeantjustwhatitsaid:youfindyourself ter. Iwastravelingatthelowestfareclass:deckpas- Indies, theoldgirlhadseenbetterdays—muchbet- 19-year oldstudentattheUniversityofWest the route upanddowntheislands.BytimeIboarded Federation fromCanada,andforyearspliedaregular sister, the stopping atallislandsenroute.Thisshipandher Federal Maple the mostcomfortable. still oneofthesafestmeanstravel—ifnotalways wrong. However,forthemostpart,travelingbyseais in shipswhenthingsgowrong,theycanvery the sea!Justaskpassengersfrom be relaxingandrejuvenating—itcanalsohellon and rejuvenateyouatthesametime. there’s nothingquitelikealongoceanvoyage,torelax metabolism slowdowntomatchthepaceofocean, pany. Butonceyougetusedtoit,yourmindand you, thecrew,yourbooksandthoughtsforcom- would bethescratchyshortwaveradio.There’sjust internet; youronlycontactwiththeoutsideworld zon itself.Inthosedaystherewasnotelevisionor sea: tendayswithnothingonthehorizonbuthori- passenger ships.Ittakesawhiletogetusedlifeat I’ve crossedtheAtlanticseveraltimesincargoand would havetobere-classifiedasapassengervessel. can carryisusuallylimitedto12,afterwhichtheship gers oneveryvoyage.Thenumberofpassengersthey R • Allslipswithfingers • Shorepower30,50and100amps • ABYCcertifiedmachanics • 70TonTravelift(30'beam) • Slipsto120’withdepth10’ • HighQualityShelteredMoorings From JamaicatoSt.Kittsisthreedaysofhardsail- My firstroughtripwasonboardthelategreat Jamaica toSt.KittsAboard Actually, that’snotquitetrue.Anoceanvoyage Many lifetimesagoIusedtoworkinshipping,and Zar-Par Marina Sooner bySchooner Visit: marinazarpar.comemail: [email protected] Maple M inKingstonthesummerof’72,asa Federal Palm a : twoweeksfromJamaicatoGrenada, are alsoallowedtocarryafewpassen- Caribbean trade. schooners, arethelifebloodof usty oldcargoships,knownlocallyas

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of Kittitianboys. ly downtheswayingjetty,Iwassurroundedbyaposse shore bysmallboatsorlighters.AsIwalkedunsteadi- that thiscuredmeofseasicknessforever. Ferries, inter-islandcargovessels,tugsandmorecrowdthebusywharfatPortofSpain,Trinidad “No.” You haveratchetknife?” “No.” “You haveganja?” “Yes.” “You fromJamaica?” We disembarkedatBasseterre,St.Kitts,ferriedto 69.36.67W 18.25.50N Located oppositeG.Y.E. e-mail: [email protected] VHFCh16/68 & CANVAS •BEQUIA GRE Tel (784)457-3507/457-3527 G

C R A E N N AADINES onto thenextdisembarkingpassenger. —Continuedonnextpage Vincentians; it’sintheirblood. Caribbean schoonersarecaptainedandcrewedby flag, whetherforconvenienceorotherwise.Many thousands ofshipsworldwidenowflytheVincentian (what usedtobecalledaflagofconvenience),and time industry.Thecountryhasanopenshipregistry the GrenadinesisCaribbeanleaderinmari- demands —theoriginaltrampsteamers. captains, movingfromporttoasthetrade Here theycontinuetoekeoutalivingfortheirowner/ washed uponthelawlessshoresofCaribbean. ally recognizedsafetytests,andfoundthemselves European shipsthatlongagofailedanyinternation- Caribbean, therearemanysuchvessels,discardedold the passageoftime.AmongislandsEastern ous tradingships—whichhadn’timprovedanywith myself onboardsomeoftheCaribbean’slesssalubri- V In unisontheyallkissedtheirteeth;thenmoved Perhaps duetoitsveryislandnature,St.Vincent& Fast forwardafewdecadeslater,andIagainfound Grenada toTrinidadAboard D A (northern sideofAdmiraltyBay) I S N

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NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 Bon voy- . By 10:00 it was back in Trinidad. The . By 10:00 it was PM Sea Stories In the realm of possibilities, that was a fairly benign In another breakdown, passengers and crew ran out It’s a tough old life on the Caribbean Sea! For the northbound leg, vessels are loaded to the gills with an assorted cargo of soft drinks, building materials, foodstuffs… breakdown; there are many horror stories of the things that can go wrong at sea. In one infamous voyage, a Grenadian vessel broke down midway between Trinidad and Grenada. She drifted slowly southwestwards for three days before washing ashore on Isla Margarita, Venezuela — whereupon all the passengers and crew were promptly arrested for entering the country illegally! This sparked an “international incident” which wasn’t resolved until Grenada sent another boat to pick up its stranded citizens. of food and broke into the cargo hold in search of sustenance, where all they found were Crix crackers and Coke. After three days adrift, they thought salva- tion was at hand when a Trinidadian Coast Guard vessel discovered them and took them under tow. But their elation was short-lived, as the Coast Guard towed the stricken vessel only as far as a nearby oil rig, tied the vessel to the rig and left them to their own devices! After another Crix and Coke day alongside the rig, they were finally rescued by another vessel sent from Grenada. ship’s steering gear had broken; they wouldn’t be gear had broken; they ship’s steering talk the that night. Zoo had to sweet going anywhere to join me to let him out for the night security guard and bed, for a welcome shower at the guesthouse into he had not re-cleared because technically were made to following morning, repairs Trinidad. The sailed for gear; and Zoo finally the boat’s steering two on Friday afternoon. Grenada at around chance, mon ami! age et bonne around 9:00 Petite Martinique 16-18 feet of water alongside Suitable for Large Power Yachts Unobstructed dock in calm water Cheapest prices in the Grenadines The best fuel dock in the Grenadines for: Contact: Glenn Clement or Reynold Belmar FUEL • OIL • WATER • ICE Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 email: [email protected] Easily approached from Carriacou, Union I., Palm I. & PSV B & C FUELS ENTERPRISE , swept majestically past us on past us on , swept majestically on Thursday. PM T&T Spirit We then headed straight to the guesthouse in With all Trinidad’s oil money, downtown Port of Port of oil money, downtown With all Trinidad’s Trinidad to Grenada By comparison with the journey southbound, By this time I had realized that the alternator for my After several delays, Zoo’s boat sailed for Grenada at Woodbrook for a long shower! We spent a frantic two Woodbrook for a long shower! We spent a frantic two days in Trinidad, running from Chaguanas to Chaguaramas, scouring parts shops and chandleries for essential supplies. We didn’t have much time; the boats were scheduled to depart back to Grenada at about 6:00 her way into port, while her opposite number was number was port, while her opposite her way into Added to out in the other direction. just heading water four 300-passenger capacity that are the route, and the PoS-San Fernando sea taxis that ply by way of Tobago are well served Trinidad and water transportation. Spain has changed out of all recognition: there are there are out of all recognition: Spain has changed fast ferry to galore! The enormous new skyscrapers Tobago, where the vessels are almost empty, for the northbound leg they are all loaded to the gills with an assorted cargo of soft drinks, steel rods and other building materials, foodstuffs, gas bottles, diapers, tampons and practically everything else that Grenada imports from our industrialized neighbour to the south. Sleeping space on deck is always a valuable commodity on the return trip. Pajero would not be re-wound by Reno Electrical in St. James in time to make the return trip on the boat, so I decided to extend my trip and fly back. Of course that could never be a simple process; and after one hot sweaty morning tramping up and down Wrightson Road from the CARICOM Wharf to the Immigration Department and back — several times — I finally got my treasured visa extension, and my passport back. Zoo was returning with the boat on Thursday evening — or thought he was. 3 Phase 100Amp, 50 Hz • and a and a BIG BLUE BUILDING Ocean Princess 240V 50Amp • for the faint hearted. These hearted. These for the faint St. Vincent & the Grenadines Summer Special: not Look for the Bequia Marina, Port Elizabeth, Bequia

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[email protected] 1 (784) 495 0235 VHF 68 BEQUIA MARINA Continued from previous page Continued from So far I have travelled on two of these schooners, schooners, travelled on two of these So far I have Every Tuesday evening, three vessels sail from St. Every Tuesday evening, three We awoke to the beautiful sight of the northern We awoke to the beautiful sight of the northern On this trip I was accompanied by my friend Mike There is very little cargo moving southbound, moving southbound, There is very little cargo Electric: 110V 30Amp Vincy boat: grimy, grubby but happy! which for the purposes of this article shall remain shall remain purposes of this article which for the them again!). may need to travel on nameless (I pleasant trip it’s actually quite a Weather permitting, hours over- to Trinidad, about 12 to 13 from Grenada it is night. However, — George’s bound for Port of Spain, all departing at George’s bound for Port around 8:00 schooners are the living embodiment of the word of the word the living embodiment schooners are surveyor any half-qualified marine “unseaworthy”; some of these at the state of would have conniptions stanchions; important vessels! Rusted and broken to bits; clumsy cargo pieces of deck equipment falling zero safety handling gear; atrocious accommodation; more rust everywhere. In features and rust, rust and for a lifeboat was a one of the ships, what passed lashed on deck and broken old dinghy haphazardly junk. To be fair, I did see swamped with all kinds of but I wouldn’t want to a couple of inflatable life rafts, in working order. bet my life that they were mountain range of Trinidad looming in the distance. mountain range of Trinidad looming in the distance. Approaching Port of Spain you thread your way through the islands of the Bocas, plus dozens of man-made obstacles: ships at anchor, oil rigs, and any number of passing craft in the water. I took a picture as we passed Carrera Island Prison, Trinidad’s own version of Devil’s Island. It’s only half a mile from the shore but the waters are said to be shark infest- ed. Right on cue, we passed close by a huge shark in the water. We docked at the CARICOM wharf at 9:00 Edmund, a.k.a. “Zoo”. We were off to Trinidad to do Edmund, a.k.a. “Zoo”. We were off to Trinidad to do what everyone else does: buy stuff. Bring your own foam, cooler and sleeping bag; and find whatever space on deck that looks reasonably clean. Correction: whatever space that isn’t absolutely filthy and covered in oil. Fortunately the seas that night were calm, which made our sleeping quarters (i.e. the deck) fairly pleasant under the stars — apart from the brief shower at two o’clock in the morning. We all crowded into the companionway, waiting bleary-eyed for the shower to pass, and then headed back out to our appointed spots on deck. Apart from the constant smell of diesel, which fills your nostrils and impregnates every item of clothing, you can get a fairly decent night’s sleep. mainly agricultural produce such as yams, plan- mainly agricultural produce else is in season, all tains, bananas and whatever packed in pallets haphazardly knocked together and loaded on board using the ship’s cranes (there are no shore cranes). The process for loading fuel is even more haphazard; the ship’s cranes lift enormous drums of diesel from trucks into the ship’s hold, swaying ominously and invariably spilling fuel in the process. The loaded drums are manhandled into position in the hold, from whence the fuel is siphoned off into the ship’s fuel tanks — more spillage. or 10:00 the following morning. A fourth vessel sails or 10:00 the following morning. the same time. In addition, from Grenville, arriving at and St. Vincent: the vessels arrive from St. Lucia Spain can get pretty con- CARICOM wharf in Port of gested on a Wednesday morning. NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 third week,justintimetoliftyourspirits. when romancesetsthehookoffyoursternin ness contactsandagreements. influences tohavesocialfunandmakenewbusi- excellent timetomakethemostofthesepositive tions andbusinessareallinScorpio,sonowisan times inthenearfuture. and setthehook.Restup,astherewillbebusy break fromtheusualconcernsofboatownership throughout themonth. will haveyoutackingfromonecoursetoanother communications. any choppyseasinrelationships,ingenuityand hand onthehelmtoholdyourcoursethrough excellent way. your mentalskillswillbeoncourseandmake solutions. Yourworkenergymaybeinirons,but will giveyoucrucialinsightintoboat-business as agoodseaanchor. into contrarycurrents.Deployyoursenseofhumor before the12th,asafter17thromancewillsail good vibestothetest. ets inScorpio,tackingthroughitallwillputyour side lifewillbefullofaggravation.Withfourplan- month’s end. Creative inspirationwillclimbaboardbefore romantic breezewillpickupinthethirdweek. aspects prevail. make contactsandcontractswhilethese good and communicationswillbecrisp clear,so After the17th,skieswillslowlyclear. commercial orfinancialdealingsroughsailing. tions. Allthesewillcombinetomakeprogressin life willbecomplicatedbygarbledcommunica- uncompleted boatprojects. sign andblessyouwiththeenergytofinishany NOVEMBER 2014 Your cargoofgoodhumorwillserveyouwell The planetsofromance,creativity,communica- You areaspectfreethismonth,sojusttakea You’ll havelotsofenergy,butalackdirection Your abilitytohavefunwillprovideafirm Aspects increativity,loveandcommunication Use yoursweet-talkingskillstobestadvantage Immerse yourselfinonboardprojects,asshore- Though energymaybeinthedoldrums,a Romance willassistcreativityinboatbusiness Ingenuity hasjumpedoverboardandyourlove Mars willspendthemonthcruisingthroughyour SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22Jun-23Jul)

KEN DYER RON MORGAN S C M O COMPASS I

JERRY KING

PHILIP WITTE NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 ide and Jimmy Buffett crooning softly ide and Jimmy !

Compass INGA BEITZ INGA WHAT BUGS YOU THE MOST? THE YOU BUGS WHAT What bugs you most about cruising, and what (if anything) do you do about it? what (if anything) do you most about cruising, and What bugs you in a future issue of truth with the world and we’ll share the hideous [email protected], Let us know at Cruising is a lifestyle envied by many — but cruisers know that it’s not all a bed of frangipanis with umbrella drinks on the s with umbrella drinks on not all a bed of frangipanis but cruisers know that it’s lifestyle envied by many — Cruising is a in the background. in the background. NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32

Lesser Antillesin Puerto Rico ABC Islands Trinidad Jamaica Cuba Haiti Cayman Islands Dominican Republic www.freecruisingguide.com The BestStoriesfrom CaribbeanCompass The Spice Necklace, says, “Given a new life beyond the magazine, The SpiceNecklace,says,“Givenanewlifebeyondthemagazine, CRUISING GUIDES is a collection of 49 outstanding stories selected from more than is acollectionof49outstandingstoriesselectedfrommorethan

Ann Vanderhoof, author of An Embarrassment of Mangoes and Ann Vanderhoof,authorofAnEmbarrassmentMangoesand Cruising Life: The Best Stories from Caribbean Compass Cruising Life:TheBestStoriesfromCaribbeanCompass Beyond its entertainment — the first piece had me hooked — Beyond itsentertainment—thefirstpiecehadmehooked Compliments of: the pieces in this collection resonate and sparkle the piecesinthiscollectionresonateandsparkle Read apreviewandorder Boca Chica, DominicanRepublic in a very different way, offering new pleasures. in averydifferentway,offeringnewpleasures. Now available as an eBook at Amazon.com, Now availableasaneBookatAmazon.com, the collection is sure to spark ideas in both the collectionissuretosparkideasinboth cruising sailorsandarmchairdreamers.” 200 issuesof www.marinazarpar.com atwww.amazon.com! FREE US$8.95 Caribbean Compass Marina Cruising Life 3 volumes Zar-Par . now advantage ofthat. This wasonemeansofsurvivaltosomeextent,andso,beingasurvivor,Itook water insomeshapeorform,beitriversthesea.Iwasalwaysfishingasachild. still hadmanystepstogo.” After all,wewerebothbornoftheirspirit oftenacityandresilience,ourpath ing thewell-wornpaththattheyhadforged fromtheslaveshipstoindependence. to Jamaicaandledmychildbackhome thelandofherancestorsinhoperejoin- woman. Itwasinthisfogofself-hateand depressionthatIbookedourflightsback was acompletefailureinallaspectsofmy life:asawife,mother,andcareer the messthathadledallofustothismoment intime…Iconvincedmyselfthat the daynearedforustoreturnhomeland, Iassaultedmyselfwithblamefor a betterpositionifweweretoquitLondon andgobacktoJamaicaforawhile…As to havelosthernerve.Shewrites,“Isuggested [tomydaughter]thatwemaybein recently purchasedhome,herrelationshipwithsisterisinshambles,sheseems husband. Sheisonceagainoutofwork,indebtandonthevergelosing her arrested andbrieflyjailedonspuriousassaultchargesbroughtbyhersoon-to-be-ex ography ends,however,withherfeeling“traumatizedandfearful”afterbeing tually triumphingoverallodds(whichsheapparentlyhasdoneinlife).Thisautobi- by thespiritthatinfusesit.YougetavividsenseofwhothisAvaBrownis. writer (andthereareseveralthattheeditorshouldhaveamended)superseded sometimes atgreatlength.Butanyflawsinthewritingofthisbookbyafirst-time that manyofherproblems,aswellsuccesses,areownmaking. across toothersinherlifeasstubbornnessandselfishness,sheacknowledges diary-like aspect.Theauthor’squalitiesofstrengthanddeterminationoftencome paper wascathartic.Itjustdevelopedfromthere.”Thisgivesthebookasomewhat “I wasgoingthroughadifficultpatchandfeltoverwhelmed,soputtingmyfeelings on are recountedindetail.Sheacknowledgesthattheinspirationforherbookwas that young daughteranddreamingofacareer—amongothertwists,turnspitfalls, finding andkeepingworklodging,constantfinancialworries—allwhileraising a semi-estranged husbandwhofollowedher,problemswithImmigration,difficulties and Jamaica’sriversinthatsameway.” the frontofmybook,wherethereisaroadthatcouldleadanywhere,Isawocean Caribbean Seamademefeelliketherewereendlesspossibilities.Likethepictureon semi-submersible vesselthatintriguedme—Iwasfascinatedwiththeseabed. teered attheMontegoBayMarineParkwhileinteachers’collegeandIwentona I waslaterapproachedtoworkinthemaritimesectorexcited.alsovolun- the tugboatswhentheycameintoKingstonHarbouronnumerousoccasions.When fact thatmyex-husbandworkedinships’husbandry,soIhadatasteforgoingon her positionasGlobalBusinessDevelopmentManagerinthemaritimesector. dreams ofbecomingabusinesswomanandcompleteanMBA.Today,Avathrivesin year-old daughter.Atthispoint,Avadecidedtofollowherheartandpursue before movingtotheUKin2002workasateacher,accompaniedbyherthree- vulnerable butwithahugecapacityforsurvival. but madehertoughandbendablelikethebambooplant.Sheisalsoafern, metaphor ofthebamboo,herchildhoodexperiencesgavestrongrootstogrow ences assteppingstonestobecomingastrongandself-reliantwoman.Usingthe overseas. Herresilienceallowedhertoseeallofharshanddisappointingexperi- being heldatgunpointwasthecatalystthatledhertolooktowardadifferentlife unquenchable thirstforeducation. order toearnthemoneythatherfamilydesperatelyneeded,Avaretainedan on afarmmighthavebeenallthatawaitedher.Butdespiteoftenmissingschoolin suburban streetsofSt.Elizabeth.Alifemakingbabies,street-sellingorworking Global BusinessDevelopmentManagersheistoday. her remarkabletransitionfromstreet-sellingJamaicanpaupertotheMBA-wielding color photos. BOOK REVIEWBYSALLYERDLE TENACITY ANDRESILIENCE The bookfinishesonanunexpectednote.readerispreparedtofindAvaeven- As manyautobiographiesdo,thisaccountexposesrealorperceivedinjustices, Ava’s voyagewasnotallsmooth,evenintheUK.Atumultuousrelationshipwith “I alwayslovedhowtheoceancascaded,freeandendlessitwas.The “What helpedtosteermymaritimecareer,especiallyinearlyadulthood,wasthe Ava tells Ava qualifiedasateacherandwentontostudyforUS-basedbusinessdegree As anadolescent,Avaexperiencedincestandsexualabuse,asayoungadult, Ava wasoneofninechildrenandspentmuchhertimesellingmangoesonthe In herautobiography, Bamboo &Fern W t lildlth d l i ll i iti t t d l h t “Wh Compass , byAvaBrown,NewGenerationPublishing©2014.272pages, , “MyCaribbeanupbringingwasonethatsurroundedby Bamboo &Fern , Jamaican-bornAvaBrownrecountspartof NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 . Breath, Eyes, Memory “Are you having trouble with any marital duties?” trouble with any marital “Are you having honestly. “Yes,” I answered “What is it?” most important to a man.” “They say it is “The night?” “Oui.” There must be trouble with the night? she asked. “You have “You cannot perform?” for me,” I said. “It is very painful purity and a woman in Haiti, where noted, “The burden of being As one reviewer some fulfillment — you have a child.” some fulfillment honor, and where ‘nightmares are passed on through chastity are a matter of family is Danticat’s theme.” No need to shout it. Danticat’s generations like heirlooms,’ in relates a woman’s story, one rooted in Haitian culture, voice is so very soft as she her gracious novel Breath, Eyes,

.” tested while being double , by Edwidge Danticat. Vintage Books, Second Contemporaries Vintage Books, Second , by Edwidge Danticat.

, is such a book. The story is one that’s infused with unforgettable sadness. , is such a book. The story

me… Finally I failed the test.” “I did not leave him for good,” I said. “This is just a short vacation.” “I did not leave him for good,” I said. “This is just a short One day while Joseph is away playing his music Sophie flees back to Haiti with her One day while Joseph is away playing his music Sophie Sophie becomes alienated from her mother. She hates her body, and later hates her body, and later Sophie becomes alienated from her mother. She This unwanted act also has far reaching repercussions for Sophie. She impales This unwanted act also has far reaching repercussions “Like Tante Atie, she had told me stories while she was doing it, weaving elaborate “Like Tante Atie, she had told me stories while she was “I closed my eyes upon the images of my mother slipping her hand under the “I closed my eyes upon the images of my mother slipping Sophie works hard at her schoolwork and is a wonderful daughter, until a much daughter, until a much Sophie works hard at her schoolwork and is a wonderful Sophie’s problems run deep, too. Besides having to deal with her mother’s ill- Sophie’s problems run deep, too. Besides having to But this loathsome act has far reaching consequences for Martine, who for most of But this loathsome act has far reaching consequences Martine continued, “It happened like this. A man grabbed me from the side of the like this. A man grabbed me from the side of the Martine continued, “It happened Sophie’s existence in this world was not the result of an act of love, but a criminal was not the result of an act of love, but a criminal Sophie’s existence in this world Before going to America, Sophie had asked Tante Atie, “‘How it was that I was born had asked Tante Atie, “‘How it was that I was born Before going to America, Sophie Breath, Eyes, Memory Breath, Eyes, which the story is told in such a gentle voice that it’s Can you imagine a book in Sophie Caco, was brought up from infancy by her The novel’s first person narrator, ALMOST A WHISPER A ALMOST baby daughter. She goes to the women who first reared her: Tante Atie and her baby daughter. She goes to the women who first reared is so that she could come and grandmother Ife. But Ife notifies Martine where Sophie husband, why did you leave be reconciled with her. Ife also questions Sophie. “Your him so suddenly?” when she marries Joseph she continues to “double up”, affecting sexual rela- when she marries Joseph she continues to “double tions with him. herself with a pestle. “I took the pestle and the bloody sheet and stuffed them into a herself with a pestle. “I took the pestle and the bloody finger back every time she bag. It was gone, the veil that always held my mother’s tested tales to keep my mind off the finger, which I knew one day would slip into me and tales to keep my mind off the finger, which I knew one condemn me. I had learned to sheets and poking her pinky at a void, hoping that it would go no further than the sheets and poking her pinky at a void, hoping that it length of her fingernail. older man, Joseph, who is a musician, moves in next door. Sophie starts having door. Sophie starts having older man, Joseph, who is a musician, moves in next comes home from work and conversations with him. One evening her mother That’s when Martine begins finds Sophie talking to Joseph and hauls her inside. her testing. nesses, she resents the “testing” that is a Haitian custom perpetuated from mother nesses, she resents the “testing” that is a Haitian custom all in the name of honour to daughter to make sure the daughter’s virginity is intact, and tradition. the story is referred to as “Sophie’s mother”. It is as if the act rendered her nameless; the story is referred to as “Sophie’s mother”. It is as if the She suffers from insomnia. it is an act from which Martine never fully recovers. sets in, and when she Stress and anxiety take hold of her. Finally depression matters worse. Martine is becomes pregnant for her lover, Marc, that only makes torn between having the child and aborting it. road, pulled me into a cane field, and put you in my body. I was still a young girl field, and put you in my body. I was still a young road, pulled me into a cane then, just barely older than you.” act. And Danticat has Sophie’s mother, Martine, break the news to her in a most mother, Martine, break the news to her in a most act. And Danticat has Sophie’s mother asked, “Did Atie tell you how you were born?” delicate manner. One day her sadness in her voice, I knew that her story was sadder Sophie thought, “From the and flower petals story that Tante Atie liked to tell...” than the chunk of the sky with a mother and no father?’ She told me the story of a little girl who was born out She told me the story of a little girl who was born with a mother and no father?’ girl, from the stream, and a chunk of the sky. That little of the petals of roses, water she said, was me.” almost whisper-like? Haitian-born Edwidge Danticat’s debut novel, almost whisper-like? Haitian-born she an impoverished village in Haiti. At the age of 12, Tante Atie in Croix-des-Rosets, with her mother. goes to New York to be reunited Edition, 1998. 236 pages. ISBN 0-375-70504-X Edition, 1998. 236 pages. ISBN Memory elo- stories make good books”. It’s a story moving and But, as the saying goes, “sad quent in its telling. BOOK REVIEW BY J. WYNNER BOOK REVIEW NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 100-ton licenseorthemorestringentBritishversion, panies requireabasiclicense,whetheritbetheUS ter isquiteadifferentmatteraltogether. down toPSVandbackwithfriends.Butbeingonchar- Grenadines withmyparentsandafewtripsofown marina onTortola.Addontothatonetripthroughthe company CSY(CaribbeanSailingYachts)hadtheir enjoyed cruisingtheVirginswhenpioneercharter times I’dcrewedwithmyfather,adevotedsailorwho 200 yardsoffshoreOceanCity,NewJersey.Many I’d pitchpoledanddismastedsurfingasandbarbreak Sailfish andmoveduptoaSunfish—whichasteen day charterIwouldfindout. takes made.Howdifficultcoulditbe?Onmyveryfirst single lossoflife,despitenumerousreefshitandmis- Vincent hadbeendoingitforeightyearswithouta Grenadines. ThegreenestbareboatersfromCSYinSt. turbulent seasandinter-islandchannelsofthe every confidencethatIcouldsafelynavigatetheoften custom centerboard,new Yanmar 4JhJE54hp.Contact: 6 x65wattsolarpanelswithchargecontroller. New standing rigging.StalokísHarkenfurling,new S/Sarch, lines, newgenoatracks,primarywinches,chainplates, 55 lbbronzeBarnacleanchor, newstanchions andlife- the Caribbean.Upgradesinclude:Maxwellwindlass, glassed rudder. This boatissetupperfectlyforcruising IP’s ofthisyear. Newrudderbearingsandepoxy neered. Also added,arudderkeelstrapnotonearly board bracketsandhardwarehavebeenre-engi- tained bysecondowner. The centerboardandallcenter- Rare centerboardtwoownerboat.Extremelywellmain- electric winches. 12’ CaribeRIB,bimini/dodger, autopilot, chartplotter, 2 anchors,allCoastGuardequipment Excellent condition.Liferaft,bowthrusters,stereo,VHF, Red Hook,St.Thomas,USVI•E-mail:[email protected] E These days,tocharterayacht,theinsurancecom- My experience?Ihadsailedsincewassixona 1987 IslandPacket38’“SaltyShores” Andrea King,Island Yachts Charters FOR SALE 2006 IslandPacket445“Tirnanog” Ph: 800-524-2019•340-344-2143 Apogee port. WhenItookoverasapartownerof ity ofbringingcrewandguestssafelyto in bluewaterhastheprimaryresponsibil- very charterskipperwhohaseversailed Well pricedat$399,950 , aCarib41sloop,in1977,Ihad . True CharterboatConfessions: byBobBerlinghof My First DayCharter back hewasalready60yardsbehindus. it likeathread. uselessly fromthestanchionswhereSam hadsnapped looked up,Samwasgone!Thelowerport lifelinehung splashed overthecockpitcoaming,wetting us.WhenI foredeck. Iduckedasasmallpartof thegreenie too fast.Weburiedthebow,waterwashing overthe massive andsteep. he didthenextwaveloomedahead,threemetershigh, V berthforwardwouldn’tgetsoaked.Butassoon izing thedangerIaskedSamtoreplaceitsothat caused thechainlockercovertoflyoff.Withoutreal- the wavesgrewlargerandasuddendropofbow gusts laidusover,butitwasfun.Withintenminutes coast underfullsail,hardonastarboardtack.The make time,soIwasmotoringupBequia’snortheast Al, soIsaidnothingtoEddie. I wassteamingfrombothearsbutdidn’twanttoupset o’clock, leavingusonlyanhourandahalfbeforedark. double-berth! while Isatsilentlyfuming.Thenerve!Usingmy three headedtotowndropoffEddie’sparamour from theaftcabinwithayoungladyintow!The straight for up Eddie?” long itwas3:30. sumption anddrankabeerwhileAlsunbathed.Before Not comprehending,Igrumbledaboutthegascon- was beingplayedforasucker. with thedinghyhadnotoccurredonourPSVtrip.I annoyed, asAlstretchedoutonatowel.Thisnonsense Margaret Beach. returned andferriedAlmebacktoPrincess around inthedinghy.Afterasplendidlunch,Sam but turneddownthelunchdateinfavorofputtering Bequia’s finestrestaurant.SamandEddiereturned, Hotel (laterrenamedthePlantationHouse),then cooler whileSamheadedoffbacktotown. returned alone.AlandItooksomedrinksashoreina dered whenSamwouldreturn.Afteraboutanhourhe Elizabeth. AlandIhadadrinkonboardwhilewon- beach tochatupsomegirls,andthenheadedPort ghy. Sayingyeswasmyfirstmistake;theywenttothe asked ifhecouldtakeEddietothebeachindin- anchored offPrincessMargaretBeachby10:30.Sam Eddie, andwesetoffforBequiabeforenineo’clock. worker fromtheCSYcommissary,whomIshallcall handling theanchor.WepickedupAlandhisguest,a dock, whichbynowwecoulddowithoutdrama,Sam and backwithnoengine. Marina. Samhadalsosailedwithmeonce,toPSV Apogee very friendlyinthefourmonthsI’dlivedaboard me. Samwasadiligentworkerandwehadbecome Calliaqua residentLawrence“Sam”Haynestojoin first dayofthe“ChristmasWinds”.Forcrew,Iasked arrival ofmoreguests. would comealong,buthewasbusypreparingforthe on foreight-thirtythenextmorning.IhadhopedRoss provide allthedrinks.AllIneededwasice.Wewere wanted toinvitesomelocalsalongandthathewould ed toaskformorebuthewasaloneandsaid when IaskedfortheprincelysumofUS$120.want- assured himI’dbeensailingforyears.Hedidn’tblink wanted todaysailBequiainmid-December.I guest, aslimsoutherngentlemannamedAlKeats, year andhititoffprettywelldespiteit.Hislonehotel covered wewerebornonthesamedayin Inn aboveBlueLagoononSt.Vincent.HeandIdis- In mycase,itwasverynearlyhorrifying. license, thefirsttimeonchartercanbeabitdaunting. lots ofotherarcaneinformation.Butevenwitha Great Lakes,andIntraCoastalrulesoftheroad,plus very usefulsinceittaughtmetheInlandWaterway, Guard navigationcourseintheStates,whichwasn’t the RYAYachtmaster’s.IhadtakenabasicUSCoast It wastoolatetothrowthehorseshoelife preserver. “Eddie, youwatchSam.Don’ttakeyoureyes offhim!” “Sam’s overboard!”Ishouted,andwhen Ilooked “Hold on!”Iyelled,buttheboatwastravelingway The triphomestartedoutfine.Iknewwehadto By thetimewewereunderwayitwasafterfour Eddie wasstillintown,Ithought,butSamheaded “Sam,wehavetogetgoingsoon.Canyoupick “Eddie hadtofindsomesheaths,”hesaid,grinning. “Where haveyoubeenallthistime?”Iaskedhim, Al hadinvitedusalltolunchattheSunnyCaribbee The broadreachtoBequiawasuneventful.Wewere I wasgivenpermissiontobackstern-tothemarina The dayofthecharterwasbalmyandwindy, Ross WagenseilwasthemanagerofSugarMill , mooredinBlueLagoonnexttotheCSY Apogee . AminutelaterEddieemerged engine inneutralandlet was nowtreadingwater.Leavinghimtoport,Iputthe sails aswegotcloseenoughtoapproachSam,who “Stay there!” him. Hewastryingtoswimafterussoweallshouted, my head,signalingwewouldhavetoheadbackupfor bing head.WhilepassinghimIcircledmyhandover but stayedabout30yardstowindwardofSam’sbob- I hauledinthestarboardsheet. upwind ofSam. brought inthemainsheet.Wegybed200yards was likecannonfire,butthehelmrespondedasI threw offthejibsheet.Thenoiseofflailingsail I didn’tknowwhy!Withpanicrisinginmythroat the engineat2200rpms,boatdidn’trespond,and as Iputthehelmhardtoportgybe.Butevenwith would neverreachitintimeanyway.ItoldAltoduck If Samhadinjuredhisheadandcouldn’tswim,he and sistersallthankedmeforsavingSam. drank beerandwineinabundance, hismother barbecued chickenandfishoutsidehis backstoop, spent ChristmasDayathishomeinCalliaqua. We with thedinghyagain.Lessthantwo weeks laterI remained myfriend,andheneverwentoff gallivanting paid himhisEC$30crewwages. Al Keatstippeduseach20bucks. ally sold ended mycharteringcareer13yearsbeforeIeventu- run theenginesohardintothatgreenwater.Itnearly have reefedthemain,orusedworkingjib,andnot another waveboardingus. with theengineoffwemadeithomesaltybutwithout slammed throughthewavesforanotherhour,but “Shahks!” Hewasdeathlyafraidofsharks.We he hadthoughtoutthere,hisonlyreplywas, barely saidawordonthetriphome.Whenaskedwhat We wrappedhimintowelsandablanket,buthe and mostlikelySam’saswell. ed. Itwasthelongesttwoorthreeminutesofmylife, transom andthentumbledintothecockpit,exhaust- Eddie hauledinthelineandSamscrambledup Eddie toeasethedinghypainterandSamfloppedin. we weretowing.AstheboatcametoadeadhaltItold ward sothathecouldclimbintothefiberglassdinghy Sixty yardsdownwindweheadedup,luffingboth “Yeah,” saidEddie,tomyrelief.Weflewdownwind “Do youseehim?”Iscreamedoverthefloggingjibas He didn’tevensmile.Buttohisundying credit,Sam “We shouldtrythatoneverytrip!”Ijoked. After AlleftItriedtomakelightofit Sam whileI I wasn’tproudofmyroleintheincident.should Once onboard,Samwasshivering,nearlyinshock. Apogee in1990.Butwhenwereachedshore Apogee easepasthimtolee- LOOK OUT FOR… Devil Nettle – The Name Says It All! by Lynn Kaak As you travel through the Caribbean, every month there’s something special to look out for.

While this may be paradise for many cruisers, there are still botanical “snakes” to be found in this Garden of Eden for the unlucky wanderer. These are definitely plants to “Look Out For”! One of these plants is the Devil Nettle, also known as cal- lalloo chaude, pica-pica, burn bush, bull nettle and a few other descriptive names. This can be a very irritating plant should you inadvertently brush up against it. With a height from 30cm to 150cm (about one to five feet), it can catch uncovered skin quite easily. The leaves have a shape reminiscent of a maple leaf, and the stalks have little hairs or bristles, about 1cm long, ready to sting unsuspecting passers-by. During the rainy season, the plant has small white trumpet-shaped flowers. This plant starts out more herb-like, and the stalks become woody with time. Devil Nettle is generally found in elevations less than 300 metres (about 980 feet), growing in sandy soil where there is moderate to low rainfall. It also loves to live on and around wide trails and in open pastures, as it likes the sun (but can tolerate some shade). The hiking trails around Carriacou are a prime example of its habitat, but it can be also found throughout the Caribbean and Southern United States. The bristles on the plant are perfectly designed to ensure that one does not knowingly go back for a repeat encounter NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 with the burn bush. The tips of the hairs are slightly enlarged for maximum effect. The rest of the hair is designed to inject the toxin, like a hypodermic syringe. For most people of European descent, it will give a stinging, irritating sensation for up to 45 minutes, but for many people of African descent, it can create welts and sores that can last for several days. The white sap is also not conducive to a happy hike, as it is quite corrosive. If one were tempted to eat it, it might cause swelling, vomiting and even unconsciousness. The scientific name Cnidoscolus Urens is derived from the Greek knide – nettle and skolos – thorn; urens means burn- ing. That name is well chosen, don’t you agree?

MERIDIAN PASSAGE YOUR USED SAILS WANTED! OF THE MOON Designed to benefit fishermen in Haiti, SECOND LIFE SAILS is a Clean Wake Project of the Seven Seas Cruising Association (SSCA) NOVEMBER - DECEMBER 2014 in a joint venture with Free Cruising Guides.

Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which Donations of used sails and fishing equipment can be shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this AND next month, will help you calculate the tides. sent to either Minneford Marina at 150 City Island Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an Ave., Bronx, NY 10464 (www.minnefordmarina.com) hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moon’s setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; or to Marina ZarPar in Boca Chica, Dominican and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward; i.e. the tide floods from west to east. Times given are local. Republic (www.marinazarpar.com). School and first-aid Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire supplies are also welcome. A receipt for your donation charts. Fair tides! November 2014 21 1055 11 0335 will be given upon request. DATE TIME 22 1148 12 0419 1 1925 23 1243 13 0502 2 2018 24 1339 14 0544 3 2110 25 1436 15 0627 4 2203 26 1533 16 0710 Frank Virgintino, developer of Free Cruising Guides, 5 2256 27 1628 17 0756 6 2349 28 1722 18 0843 will take all donated items to Haiti during February 7 0000 (full moon) 29 1814 19 0934 8 0043 30 1906 20 1028 2015 and distribute them to fishermen in a number 9 0137 21 1125 10 0230 December 2014 22 1224 11 0320 1 1957 23 1323 of communities. 12 0409 2 2048 24 1421 13 0456 3 2140 25 1557 14 0541 4 2232 26 1611 15 0624 5 2325 27 1703 For more information contact Frank Virgintino 16 0707 6 0000 (full moon) 28 1754 17 0750 7 0018 29 1845 at [email protected] or SSCA board member 18 0833 8 0110 30 1936 19 0918 9 0200 31 2027 Catherine Hebson at [email protected]. 20 1005 10 0248 NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36

NASA EARTH OBSERVATORY / NOAA NGDC FIGURE1 placed itsfirstexperimentalChinesespacestationmoduleintolowEarthorbitin Chinese for“HeavenlyPalace”.TheChinaNationalSpaceAdministration(CNSA) space stationthathasn’treceivedmuchpress.Thatwouldbethe International SpaceStationisnotscheduledtopassover.Wellthereanother over theCaribbeanBasin. Weather balloonsmaybeanotherreason,buttheyareunlikelytofoundflying Some oftheobjectscoveredwereiridiumflares,unusualstartwinkleandsatellites.

Rodney Bay,St.Lucia to Mid-December You happentoseeapassingpointoflightinthesky.Whatcouldthatonebe?The In recentarticlesIaddressedsomecausesof“unidentified”objectsinthesky. Mid-November The Skyfrom

by JimUlik

Tel: (758)4520299 THE CARIBBEANSKY:FREESHOWNIGHTLY!

Lubricants &Oils Bilge Pumps Marine Hoses Electric Wire Anchors &Fenders Chain &Rope Johnson Hardware Ltd. FOR YOUR MARINEHARDWARE, ANDMORE Tiangong-1 Fax:(758)4520311 , 2011. Thenumberofviewablepasses only be16percentilluminated. The interferencefrommoonlightwillbeminimal.Moonrisesat0240but dark locationisaround20perhourandtravelingat160,164mph(257,760km/h). before 0100hours.Themaximumnumberofmeteorsexpectedtobevisiblefroma lation Leo.LookeastaftermidnightandyouwillfindJupiterwithLeorisingjust join thelineuponNovember22nd. period. TheywilllineupbehindtheSunonNovember18th.AndNewMoon December 11th.Saturn,VenusandMercuryarealldaytimeobjectsthroughoutthis in thewestatduskandwillmovefromSagittariusthenenterCapricornuson goals mentionedabove.TakealookatFigure1toseethelightsofCaribbean. road safety.Ofcourseweallknowthatevendaylightdoesn’toffermuchbenefittothe Outdoor lightingisintendedtoreducecrime,increasehomesecurityandprovidefor It isgettinghardertofindanyplacethatdoesn’thavesomedegreeoflightpollution. night sky.Lightsareadistractionandtheyreducetheawarenessofcelestial tion forChina. and December willrangefrom16inGrenadato19Antigua.Thelaunchesof Leonid meteorswillpeakthismorning.Thesourceoftheseistheconstel- Tuesday, November18th During thisperiodJupiterislocatedbetweenCancerandLeo.Marscanbefound Of courseitwouldbebettertohavedarkskiesforthebestviewofobjectsin Tiangong-3 Fishing Gear Snorkeling Equipment Flares &LifeJackets VHF Radios Stainless Fittings Stainless Fasteners willfollowoverthenextfewyearsleadingtoapermanentspacesta- e-mail:[email protected] Tiangong-1 Lights oftheCaribbean frommid-Novembertomid- —Continued onnextpage Houseware &Cookware Hand &PowerTools Sanding Paper&Discs Epoxy Resins Paint Brushes Antifouling Paint Tiangong-2 NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37

FIGURE 2 FIGURE 3ESA / ROSETTA / MPS FOR OSIRIS TEAM FIGURE 4 NOAA / NESDIS is orbiting and the Rosetta for the source of the shooting stars. The

was scheduled to touch down on comet 67P/Churyumov– Philae All times are given as Atlantic Standard Time (AST) unless otherwise noted. Continued from previous page Continued from In The News or land on asteroids will The asteroid capture spacecraft and probes that orbit Jim Ulik is a photographer and cruiser currently based in Grenada. * In more news from space and to Earth, satellites and collaborations between In more news from space and to Earth, satellites and Sunday, December 14th meteor shower. Tonight marks the maximum shower activity for the Geminid Tuesday, December 9th rate of activity. The The Puppid–Velid meteor shower will reach its maximum Monday, December 8th the radiant of the Geminid meteors. Today Look for the Moon to be in Gemini, Wednesday, December 3rd orbit of the International Space Station will pass NASA has predicted that the Sunday, November 30th the constellation Ophiuchus. Poor Ophiuchus is The Sun takes its place in Tuesday, November 25th with red planet Mars at dusk in the western sky. The crescent Moon pairs up Saturday, November 22nd Saturday, November in line, the Sun and Moon are moment is at 0833. Because The New Moon Friday, November 21st Friday, November of the will reach its peak. The source meteor shower The Alpha-Monocerotids Figure 2: X marks the source of the Geminid meteor shower at 1900 on Figure 2: X marks the source of the Geminid meteor shower December 14th down on the plus sign Figure 3: The probe from the Rosetta spacecraft will set Figure 4: Current coral bleaching hotspots advance the knowledge base of these objects. For space exploration, the water advance the knowledge base of these objects. For space that the mineral found on asteroids can be used as fuel. It is also estimated at over 120 million wealth on the asteroids between Mars and Jupiter is valued materialized, a loaf of in US Dollars for every person on Earth. Of course if that bread would probably cost 120 thousand dollars. The times are based on the viewing position in Grenada and may vary by only a few minutes in different Caribbean locations. Geminids are often bright and intensely colored. Take advantage of the early Geminids are often bright and intensely colored. Take 1900. The Moon at 50 show because the meteors may start to be visible at 15th. percent illumination won’t rise until 0032 on December lander Organization for the Centre National d’Etudes Spatiales (CNES), European NASA, NOAA and Exploitation of Meteorological Satellites (EUMETSAT), Their observations approximately 40 research institutes study coral bleaching. under a coral bleach- have concluded that areas of the Caribbean are currently to the coast of South ing warning. Reef mortality is predicted south of Grenada increase in ocean tem- America. Satellites help determine when there is an part to these increases. peratures and acid levels. The coral bleaching is due in population levels of fish That will have a negative impact on the habitat and and shellfish. Gerasimenko on November 12th. See the landing spot on Figure 3. Gerasimenko on November 12th. See the landing spot The number of meteors expected to be visible from a dark location could be The number of meteors expected to be visible from around 100 per hour. Check Figure meteors radiate from the poop deck (Puppis) and the sail (Vela) on the great ship meteors radiate from the poop deck (Puppis) and the sail to pass overhead. The constellation Argo Navis. Look for 15 meteors an hour meteors will be traveling at 82,766 mph (133,200 km/h). marks the beginning of the shower activity. near the Moon on December 3rd at 1808 hours, plus or minus 11 minutes. A near the Moon on December is for the International Space Station to pass near second prediction from NASA 6th. That is supposed to occur at 1716. For the Mars on Saturday, December posted are for no more than ten days out. greatest accuracy, most predictions September 26th. These predictions were dated Check http://spotthestation.nasa.gov. destined to be left out of the Zodiac. The Sun will remain there from November destined to be left out of the 30th to December 18th. Both will be near Sagittarius. The ERBS satellite will pass in front of the Moon Both will be near Sagittarius. Budget Satellite (ERBS) was designed to inves- at 1930. NASA’s Earth Radiation Sun is absorbed and re-radiated by the Earth. tigate how energy from the look for a higher low tide today. look for a higher low tide today. shower is the Canis Minor constellation. Canis Minor can be found rising in the Canis Minor can be found Canis Minor constellation. shower is the year’s num- is highly variable. So, this The meteor quantity east around 2200. present greatest volume of meteors remains to be seen. The ber of meteors Next year’s interval falls in 2015. in ten-year intervals. That appears to be hour. bring over 100 meteors per shower could — NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 UNIQUECINNAMON tury latertheDutchtookcontrolofSriLankaand 1536 tocontroltheworld’scinnamonsupply.Acen- than gold.ThePortugueseconqueredSriLankain and couldbeconsideredmorevaluabletothePharaohs as adrink,medicine,preservativeforembalming, as agifttoKingSolomon.InancientEgyptitwasused back as2800BC.TheQueenofShebagavecinnamon cassia, growninChinaandSoutheastAsia. namon powder”soldintheUnitedStatesisactually taste thanthemorepungentcassia.Muchof“cin- as “cinnamon”.Ceyloncinnamonhasamoresubtle there. Cassiaisarelatedspicethatsometimessold Lanka andmuchhigh-qualitycinnamonisstillgrown namomum verum) tree andoneoftheoldestspices.Truecinnamon( recipes. Ilovethefreshsweetfragranceofcinnamon. tainer untilyougrateorgrindandmeasureitforyour when youbuyit,andwillstayfreshinasealedcon- another, called“quills”.Cinnamonshouldsmellsweet Raw cinnamoncomesinstripsofbarkrolledone and peoplewheretheywerepurchased. souvenirs thatwillcontinuetoremindyouoftheplace encounter spicevendors.Localspicesareauthentic JONAS BROWNE&HUBBARD(G’da.)Ltd. Hubbard’s The FoodFairhasitallandalotmore. or afineselectionofliquorandwine, or fruits,toiletries,householdgoods, products, meat,freshvegetables Whether it’scannedgoods,dairy conveniently locatedsupermarkets. best pricesinGrenadaatourtwo on thewidestselectionand Stock Up Cinnamon ismentionedinChinesewritingsasfar Cinnamon istheinnerbarkofatropicalevergreen Cinnamon isgrownonmanyCaribbeanislands. Traveling throughouttheCaribbeanyoumust Month’s Reefing fortheChristmasWinds A CruisetoGrandCayman Gift Shopping?BuyLocal!

Read inNext , orCeyloncinnamon,isnativetoSri … andmuchmore! Compass Tel: (473)444-4573 until 7:00pm Friday &Saturday 9 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday Grand Anse: Tel: (473)440-2588 1:00 pm Saturday until Friday until8:45pm 8 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday The Carenage: : cin- THE SPICELOCKERBYSHIRLEYHALL or crookneck) yellow “winter”squashsuchasbutternut, acorn when youvisitthespicevendorsforyour cinnamon. namon, sobesuretograbsomewhole nutmegs, too, mon isaneasytreat. tered toastedbreadsprinkledwithsugarandcinna- don’t forgettheoldstandby,cinnamontoast:but- and honey,oraddittocoffeewithcocoapowder.And make atastydrinkofwarmedmilkwithcinnamon of beanandeggplantdishes.Oncoldrainydays, and curries,itpleasantlychangestheusualtaste Trinidad. Iuseitincakes,cookies,puddings,drinks, It isasourceofmanganese,calcium,andiron. only onecaloriefromfatandfivecarbohydrates. a heartcondition. heart rate,whichcouldbedangerousforthosewith amounts ofcinnamonhavebeenreportedtoincrease lining ofthestomachtobecomeirritated.Large namon. Morethanhalfateaspoonmaycausethe such asanulcershouldbecarefulwheneatingcin- with weightlossbecauseithelpsreducebloodsugar. lesterol andmemoryfunction.Cinnamoncanhelp shown promiseinthetreatmentofarthritis,highcho- cholesterol inTypeIIdiabetessufferers.Ithasalso of cinnamoneachdaymayreducebloodsugarand a coldorfluaswellindigestion.One-halfteaspoon rhea. Ateaofcinnamonandgingerisgreatforfighting a mildtranquilizerandrelievesnausea,gasdiar- purple berries. blooms aresmallpaleyellowflowersthatbecomedark constant moisture.Theleavesareshiny,andthe WWW.MVEQUINOX.NET grows betterinsandy,well-drainedsoilwithgood, feet withathick,veryscabby,roughbark.Cinnamon namon isoneoftheflavorsusedin“cola”softdrinks. ing toSouthAmericaandtheCaribbean.Today,cin- dred yearsuntiltheEnglishimportedcinnamonfarm- control thevaluablecinnamonmonopolyfortwohun- continually croppingandtopping.TheDutchfoughtto Dutch transformedthetreeintoalmostabushby exists. Insteadofpermittingthetreestogrowtall, started theplannedcultivationofspicethatstill 1/4 Cuphoneyormaplesyrup A largepieceofWestIndianpumpkin(or onelarge Cinnamon WestIndianPumpkin A pinchofgratednutmegoftengoeswell withcin- Cinnamon isessentialinmykitchenhere One tablespoonofcinnamonhas17calorieswith Those withanyconditionofthedigestivesystem Cinnamon hasmanyhealthbenefits.Itisconsidered A trimmedcinnamontreewillgrowfromtento25

cinnamon ismuchmorepotentthanthesupermarketvariety and thenaspicegrindertopulverizeit.Caution:freshlyground Use aboxgratertoroughlygratethecinnamoninquillform, or untiltophasbrowned. remaining cinnamon.Bakeat350°for 45minutes Cover appleswithoatmealmix.Sprinkle topwith spoon ofthegroundcinnamonand the nutmeg. pieces andapplesauceorpiefillingwith onetea- butter. Inagreasedbakingdish,combine apple bowl combineoatmeal,flour,sugar, andmelted without cinnamon.Coreandchunkthe apples.Ina utes sotheflavorssoakin. burn. Coverandremovefromheat.Letsitfor15min- um heatfortenminutes,stirringsoitdoesn’tstickor with apples.Stirinwaterandbutter.Cookovermedi- mangoes.) Inasmallpot,combinealldryingredients is uptoyouwhetherornotpeeltheapples.Do ice cream. French toastatbreakfast,orayummydessertatop with roastmeats,anaccompanimentforwafflesor with under-ripemangoes.Makesagreatsidedish find apples,orprefertobuylocal,trythisrecipe Caribbean, buttodayit’smucheasier.Ifyoucan’t utes oruntilgoldenbrown.Servewithrice. minutes. Stirandcontinuebakingforanother20min- and sprinkleoverthecubes.Bakeat400°Ffor20 a foil-linedbakingtin.Combinecinnamonandsalt squash cubeswithhoneyorsyrupandoil.Arrangeon about eightCups. Here’s aperennialfavoritethatwould benothing pinch gratednutmeg 2 teaspoonsgroundcinnamon 1 canapplesauceorapplepiefilling 1/2 Cupmeltedbutter 1/2 Cuplocalbrownsugar 1 Cupbaker’sflour 1 Cupoatmeal 4 apples Cinnamon-Apple OatmealCrisp Core applesandsliceaboutaquarterinchthick.(It It usedtobehardfindgoodapplesinthe 1 Tablespoonbutter 2 Tablespoonswater pinch gratednutmeg 1 teaspoongroundcinnamon 2 Tablespoonsbrownsugar 4 tartapples(preferGrannySmithorMcIntosh) Easy CinnamonApples In asizablebowl,thoroughlycombinepumpkinor Peel, seedandcubethepumpkinorsquashtomake salt totaste 2 teaspoonsgroundcinnamon 3 Tablespoonsvegetableoil(prefercanola) NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39

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BOATBLADDERS EVER BEFORE WITH... (10 years and more…) McIntyre Bros. Ltd. BOATBLADDERS +1-201-825-1400 GOT TRAVELRANGE? FARTHER FUEL BLADDERS t Auxiliary Fuel Bladders t 500 Gal. - Larger Sizes Readily Upon Request Available t Fuel Turbine Compatible t Ready to Ship WORLDWIDE TRUE BLUE, ST. GEORGE’S, GRENADA W.I. YAMAHA , The The Quarterdeck Chronicles . My husband, Paul and I were out Readers, , . That first book told of the joy of discover- Compass Compass This second book, named My first book, published in December 2011, was It’s been three years since my last Kindle e-book was ADVICE TO CRUISERS I would like more people to visit Jamaica and experi- people to visit Jamaica I would like more We met so many friends in our cruising life; that life A fellow we met there was just starting cruising and WE WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU! We want to hear from YOU! Be sure to include your name, boat name or shoreside We do not publish individual consumer complaints or Send your letters to [email protected]. World is My Oyster cruising full time for 23 years. The book is about our cruising full time for 23 years. The book is about our life, sailing around the world on our CSY44, Quarterdeck ing exotic ports. made available on Amazon. It seems to be doing well. made available on Amazon. It seems to be doing well. I wrote another e-book, also on cruising, and published it last night! Read the free cruising guide to Jamaica guide to Jamaica Read the free cruising and go to Jamaica. (www.freecrusiingguide.com) Frank Virgintino, Author Free Cruising Guides Dear of celebration and wonder. I took this photo in that and wonder. I took this of celebration joy that was all I felt and saw was the open market and in the moment. of the British once the Caribbean jewel ence what was you. let an article like this dissuade Empire. Don’t is about all the bad things we (and companion boats is about all the bad things we (and companion boats we traveled with) ran into. If the first book was “the good”, this second is “the bad and the ugly”. is so social and there’s nothing like it on land, not even cruising in an RV. We still visit and write to our many friends living everywhere from Malaysia and Thailand to the States. Last summer we were in Puerto Rico looking after a boat for friends who had to leave their boat in hurricane territory; it was a nice break for us. For three months we enjoyed cruising life again, even meeting friends from our previous years in the Caribbean. had read my first book. He commented that we had such good weather; he said if more cruisers knew that you could plan such good weather they would cruise further afield, even go bluewater cruising. So that’s what this book started out as. But as with my first book, the second gives advice to cruisers about things to avoid, the drug areas, the robberies, even murders, and inevitably things one cannot avoid: a tsunami or an El Niño year. Sandra Johnston Quarterdeck Dear address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if clarification is required. individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld from print at your request. Please keep letters shorter than 600 words. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. , an and by . magazine, . , let Don Street, , Christine Gooch Compass

Caribbean Compass Cruising World article missed was the ' Compass S R and many other publications, is E M , , , U D Cruising World Free Cruising Guide to Jamaica Street’s Guide Martinique to Trinidad A R Street’s Guide Martinique to Trinidad Compass Compass Compass E O In the July 2014 issue of It is perfectly sheltered by the barrier reef no matter WINDWARD WORDS Obviously they did not like the town. Port Antonio is The bells account as many know — or used to know Re: his letter in September’s That it is well sheltered is confirmed by an article in It is my good fortune to live near Andover, I LIKE JAMAICA I have cruised Jamaica a number of times and have In the October edition of What the ‘EIGHT BELLS’ APPLIES FFORUM READERS' RREADERS' how hard it blows. Look at Imray Iolaire chart B311 how hard it blows. Look at Imray Iolaire chart B311 and use the range transit to enter, with Six Penny Hill bearing 022 degrees magnetic. Use eyeball navigation; do not rely on a chart plotter. This anchorage is described on the back of charts B31 and B311, and also in Dear Mayreau. In it, she won- wrote an excellent article on dered about the anchorage on the windward side of this little Grenadine island: is it sheltered if the wind is blowing hard? a quaint old Victorian town, down on her heels, perhaps dusty and maybe even dirty here and there. It can be noisy, as many Caribbean towns cover their poverty with noise, color and loud music. But all the times I have visited Port Antonio I have never felt in danger nor have I been hassled. On the contrary, I found the open market in Port Antonio is a place full — to the three times in the day when the ship’s clock’s — to the three times in the day when the ship’s clock’s sound cycle — marked on the half hour, beginning with one bell, from eight or twelve or four — was concluded. These corresponded to the beginning and end of a sailor’s watch. Which is why “Eight Bells,” used by Caribbean Compass article entitled “What’s On My Mind… Port Antonio, Jamaica: The Beauty and the Buts” reports that the author and her husband were “hassled” while in Port Antonio, albeit how they were hassled is not indicated. They found their taxi driver “aggressive and incompe- tent” and the town of Port Antonio “busy, dirty and incredibly noisy”. The author says she was pushed and shoved in the supermarket. They also commented that, “being at anchor was a refuge”. the September 2014 issue of Massachusetts, USA, where, in the Addison Gallery of Art, Winslow Homer’s magnificent “Eight Bells” is on Idisplay. There was a time, in my college years, when went to see it explicitly; recently, no longer young, I have seen it, while seeing other exhibits, two or three times. appropriated for the end of a sailor’s watch, or — need one say? — his or her life. Dear written the “Try a Ride on the Windward Side”. The author enjoyed “Try a Ride on the Windward Side”. The author enjoyed uncrowded anchorages on the windward sides of both Mayreau and Canouan. The author also had a wonderful time on the windward side of Martinique, which is covered in whose reputation and very long life hardly need my amplification, rest easy at anchor in Ireland or wher- ever and find, in a Mount Gay’s or Heineken’s comfort, that “Eight Bells” will apply to him and the rest of us who, still writing and sailing, remain so unrestful. Richard Dey Massachusetts, USA Dear Imray Iolaire chart A301 (front and back). windward side of Carriacou at Grand and Watering Bays: four miles of barrier reef perfectly protecting the anchorages with the wonderful boatbuilding village of Windward at the north end of the bays. See chart B311, sailing directions on back of both B31/B311. Don Street Glandore, Ireland NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40

n otd-rne atnqe ulchldyi otert half-dayholidayinCuraçao andFort-de-France,Martinique.PublicholidayinMontserrat; includingTrellisBay,Tortola;AdmiraltyBequia;Kralendijk,Bonaire; 31 www.antiguayachtclub.com 31 28 27 -28 26 www.barbadoscruisingclub.org VirginGorda.BEYC 26 26 25 24 21 19 www.apassion4jazz.net/havana.html 18 -21 16 -24 15 www.sailingrallies.com 14 13 andatPinney’sBeach,Nevis 13 13 (284)496-8685,[email protected] 7 6 6 5 -11 5 DECEMBER TBA 30 28 -30 28 -30 fromCastriesHarbourtoRodneyBay,[email protected] (340) www.worldcruising.com/arc.Also St.Lucia’sARCFlotilla2014 28 -29 25 513-4955 23 Antigua(JHYC),www.jhycantigua.com 23 (BEYC), 22 –29 22 -23 andCaymanIslands(RemembranceDay) www.beyc.com www.royalbviyc.org 21 19 -23 19 18 14 –16 13-18 11 andatPinney’sBeach,Nevis www.worldcruising.com/arc 9 8 -10 fromSt.Malo,FrancetoGuadeloupe www.worldcruising.com/carib1500.StartofRouteduRhumrace 6 USAtoTortola,BVIandGreenTurtleCay,Bahamas. 3 andColombiaHaiti(AllSaints’Day) 2 2 1 NOVEMBER ULMO ate tTelsByadWs n,Troa 24thAnnualGustavWilmerdingMemorialChallenge,Tortola.WEYC FULLMOONPartiesatTrellisBayandWestEnd,Tortola, GustavWilmerdingRegatta,BVI.WestEndYachtClub(WEYC), SinterklaasBirthdayCelebration,Bonaire StartofARC+fromGranCanariatoSt.LuciaviaCapeVerdes. FULLMOONPartiesatTrellisBayandWestEnd,Tortola, PublicholidayinDominica(IndependenceDay) StartofCaribbean1500andARCBahamasralliesfromVirginia, PublicholidayinHaiti(AllSouls’Day) PublicholidayinAntigua&Barbuda(IndependenceDay), e ersEeOdYa’ ih.Frwrsi aypae, NewYear’sEve/OldNight.Fireworksinmanyplaces, NelsonPursuitRace,Antigua.AntiguaYachtClub(AYC), TobagoKite Festival BoxingDay Race,Barbados.BarbadosCruisingClub(BCC), Publicholiday inmanyplaces(BoxingDay) Publicholiday inmanyplaces(ChristmasDay) 14thAnnualNorthSoundHolidayLightedBoatParade, PublicholidayinAnguilla(NationalHeroes’Day) Winter PublicholidayinBonaire(KingdomDay) Solstice ‘ChristmasCaribbeanRally’departsCanaryIslandsboundforAntigua. Commodore’sCupRace,BVI.RBVIYC PublicholidayinSt.Lucia(NationalDay) PublicholidayinBarbados(IndependenceDay) PublicholidayinSuriname(RepublicDay) StartofARCfromGranCanariatoRodneyBay,St.Lucia PublicholidayinMontserrat(LiberationDay) RoundTortolaRace,BVI.RoyalBritishVirginIslandsYachtClub(RBVIYC), PublicholidayinBelize(GarifunaSettlementDay) PublicholidayinHaiti(BattleofVertieresDay) FirstAnnualDominicaPokerRun, [email protected] CarlosAguilarMatchRace,St.Thomas.www.carlosmatchrace.com AntiguaCharterYachtShow.www.antiguayachtshow.com TriskellCupRegatta,Guadeloupe.www.triskellcup.com DominicaChristmasRegatta,[email protected] 30thAnnualHavanaInternationalJazzFestival,Cuba. NineMorningsFestival,St.Vincent.http://discoversvg.com MangoBowlRegatta,St.Lucia.http://stluciayachtclub.com. Coursedel’Alliance,St.Martin.www.coursedelalliance.com ThanksgivingRegatta,St.John,[email protected], JollyHarbourAnnualRegatta,Antigua.YachtClub, St.BarthCataCup(F18catamarans).www.stbarthcatacup.com at thetimethisissueof 17thAnnualHobieFunWeek,VirginGorda.BitterEndYachtClub St.CroixInternationalRegatta.www.stcroixyc.com/regatta St. CroixChristmasBoatParade.www.christmasparadestcroix.com See adonpage11 Golden RockRegatta,St.Maarten/Statia.www.goldenrockregatta.com Public holidayinColombia(IndependenceofCartagena) so pleasecontacteventorganizersdirectlyforconfirmation. All informationwascorrecttothebestofourknowledge If youwouldlikeanauticalortourismeventlistedFREE and contactinformationoftheorganizingbodyto www.caribbeancompass.com We areon-line: in ourmonthlycalendar,pleasesendthename and date(s)oftheeventname [email protected] CALENDAR Compass went topress—butplanschange,

property. Thiswasnotthecaseinthisinstance. nel sothatthecrewisassuredofnothing beingplantedandnodamagetopersonal drugs. Normallyoneoftheyacht’screwmembers istoaccompanyCustomsperson- been toldtheagent’snameandinformed thatthevesselwouldbesearchedfor ously andthisdidnotappeartobeproper procedure.Inthepast,wehavealways happening. WehadbeenthroughCustoms boardingsinvolvingdrugdogsprevi- and notmove. yelling: “Hurryup!”“What’stheproblem?”“Whatisshedoingdownthere?” took acoupleofminutesaseverythingwasstowedforsea.Everyoneondock was cat onboard,andaskedpermissionforDianatoretrieveourinitscarrier.This when wesawtheCustomspersonnelwithalargedog.Weexplainedthathad a sounding. Wedugoutsomeshoes,asthepierwasrough,andweredisembarking to turnoffanyofournavigationequipment,soalarmsandwhistleswereconstantly engine downandwasyelledatfortouchingthecontrols.Wewerenotallowed he offerhisnameoranyexplanationastowhatwashappening.Haroldshut the safety inspection,butwereorderedofftheboatbymaninshorts.Atnotime did opportunity toadjustthefendersuntilafterdamagehadbeendone. Zephyrus to theproperheight,CoastGuardpersonnelpulledonbowline,dragging we gettiedupasquicklypossible.AsHaroldwasgoingforwardtoadjustfenders given anopportunitytocorrectlydockourvessel;everyoneseemedveryanxiousthat bow andsternlineswerepassedtoCoastGuardpersonnelonthepier.We not said, “Igiveyoupermissiontouseyourownfenders.” (as appropriatefendershadnotbeenprovidedaspromised).Atthispointtheman and placedunderarrest!Weexplainedthatweneededtodigoutourownfenders spected bybeingpointedat”andthatifHaroldspokeagainhewouldbehandcuffed the pierwasunsuitableforourvessel.Themanyelledthathe“wouldnotbedisre- always beenpolite,courteousandveryhelpful.Itgotworse. planned toanchoranddinghyintoCustomsaswehaddoneinthepast. are you,fish?Wereyougoingtoswim?Youwalkonwater?”Wesaidthatwehad come intoadock.Herudelysaid,“HowwereyougoingtocheckCustoms?What ers?” Dianatoldhimthatwehadbeenatseaandwerepreparedtoanchor,not would beprovided.Inasarcastictonethemansaid,“What,don’tyouhaveanyfend- fender hewasprovidingnotappropriateandthatwehadbeentoldfenders tion oftheroughconcretepier.Dianaexplainedtothisunknownmanthat Zephyrus fender yelledatusthatweweretotieupontheoutsideofpier.Weturned Suddenly, amandressedinshorts,shirtandflip-flopsholdingupdinghy and proceededtomotorintotheharborunderCoastGuardsupervision. inflatable insidetheCoastGuardPierarea.Wefoundsomedocklines,securedthem that theywouldprovideuswithfendersandwebeside-tiedtotheir all ourequipmenthadbeenstowedforpassage.TheCoastGuardpersonnelsaid us totietheCoastGuardpierforsafetyinspection. told someone“Venezuela”.TheCoastGuardpersonnelthenusthattheywanted Coast Guardbehindus.personnelappearedtobeonatelephoneand were going.Wesaidthatweheadingfortheanchorage.Theytoproceed. Guard personnelsaidthattheywantedtodoasafetyinspectionandaskedwherewe asked wherewewerecomingfrom.WesaidinboundfromVenezuela.TheCoast declined. SeveralminuteslaterwewereapproachedbyaCoastGuardinflatableand one shipandalteredcoursetoavoidacollision. entrance buoylightwasnotoperating.Therealotofshiptraffic;wecontacted weather wasunsettledwithgustywinds.Wewerehavingdifficulty,asthered under mainsail. we lostourheadsailduetoequipmentfailure.Wemotorsailedthelasttwodays the market. ble andwehaddecidedthatthiswastobeourlastsail.Weareputting sugar andtoiletpaper).ThesituationinVenezuelaisbecomingincreasinglyunsta- do someshoppingforitemsdifficulttofindinVenezuela(suchascookingoil,brown trip toSt.Thomasin2007testforourHamradiolicense. Customs whenwedeclaredthatwerearrivingfromVenezuela.Thisincludesa trips totheislandsofCaribbean.Wehadneverbeforeaproblemwith our homebaseforthelastsevenyears.Duringthistimewehavemadeanumberof sailing ofthebarrierislandsVenezuelaandhavemadeMarinaBahiaRedonda to haultheboatandhavebottompainted.Wefoundthatwelikedprotected inspections bydifferentCustomsagentsinthecourseofourtravels. tries andislandgroups.Wehavebeensubjectedtonumerousboardingsdrug 2000, wetraveledsome65,000nauticalmilesandvisitedabout65differentcoun- has beenourhomeforthelast14years.Startingacircumnavigationofworldin navigation oftheCaribbean.Wethenpurchasedourcurrentboat, filed asdrugsmugglers.Thankyouforlettingusshareourexperience. United Statescitizens.BecausewesailedfromVenezuelawereapparentlypro- St. Thomas,USVirginIslandsthat,onarrival,turnedintoanightmare.Weare Dear The maninshortswentaboard With Tiggerfinallyinthecatcarrierand on thedock,wewerebothtoldtositdown Dismayed bythedamage,wewerestillexpectingCoastGuardtobegintheir We tiedourfenderstothelifelineandturnedintopositioncomealongside.The By pointingtothepier,Haroldindicatedmanthathewasconcerned We wereconfusedastothistreatment.InthepastCoastGuardpersonnelhave The CoastGuardinflatablewentaheadtotheinsidepierarea.Westartedfollow. We saidthatwehadbeensailingforfivedaysandwerenotsetuptotieapier: With Haroldforwardtoreadytheanchor,wemotoredintoharborwith The CoastGuardcalledusonVHFradio,askingwhetherweneededassistance.We At dawnonMay29th,2014wemotorsailedintotheportofCharlotteAmalie.The The sailfromPuertoLaCruztoSt.Thomaswasfivedaysintotal.Onthethirdday Our reasontosailSt.ThomasthistimewasaccessUSpostalservicesand After completingourworldcircumnavigation,wewenttoPuertoLaCruz,Venezuela In 1990westartedsailingtheopenocean,whichincludedathree-yearcircum- First somebackgroundinformationonus. This isDianaandHaroldThompsonof Compass fulllengthagainstthebrokencementofpier.Wewerenotgivenan , passedthepieraboutfivefeetoffandexpressedconcerncondi- , the Month Letter of Zephyrus S/Y Zephyrus ; againnoexplanationastowhatwas . Werecentlydidatripupto —Continued onnextpage Zephyrus Zephyrus , which on NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 TAILS.org Microwave Navigation Lights Navigation Communications: Communications: Radio/ CD Player Hydraulic Steering CARIB Engine Hours: Under 10 Engine Hours: Additional Features: Additional Standard Horizon DSC VHF Horizon DSC Standard www. itical for conservation efforts. photographs of humpback whales of humpback photographs FOR SALE in Helping? Go to Year: 2009 Year: Mechanics: Mechanics: Beam: 8’ 6” Beam: Length: 23’ 4” Length: Serious offers only - Call: (784) 488-8465 - Call: only Serious offers Asking Price: US$50,000.00 (ONO) Asking Price: 23’ Atlantic 245WA Fishing Boat Atlantic 245WA 23’ Engine/ Fuel type: Minimum Draft: 1’ Draft: Minimum Specifications: Model: 245WA Atlantic 245WA Model: Twin Outboard Motors Outboard Twin Twin gas Yamaha 115hp Yamaha gas Twin HELP TRACKMIGRATION HUMPBACKHELP WHALE of tail flukeYour contributions region cr are from the Caribbean INTERESTED

Zephyrus , making a remark about ] Zephyrus Editor’s note: This letter contains an edited www.caribbeancompass.com Caribbean Compass Compass On-Line • Advertisers’ Directory • Check It Out… Tell Your Friends! We’re on theWeb! We’re Continued from previous page Continued from We were put in touch via telephone with Scott Moore, Director Marine Operations, We added that we wanted to make a complaint against the man in shorts for viola- We added that we wanted to make a complaint against We have returned to Marina Bahia Redonda in Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela. We We explained to him that the Coast Guard had approached us for safety inspection We explained to him that the Coast Guard had approached We filed a complaint with the US Department of Homeland Security (of which We proceeded the next day to the Coast Guard station. We recounted the story of ourWe proceeded the next day to the Coast Guard station. He explained that Customs personnel all wear uniforms and have nametags, that He explained that Customs personnel all wear uniforms After waiting about an hour, we were able to talk to a Customs supervisor, who After waiting about an hour, we were able to talk to At anchor, we assessed the interior of the boat. Personal effects were thrown every- At anchor, we assessed the interior of the boat. Personal Eventually the man in shorts emerged from Eventually the man in shorts of the damage to Harold asked the man in shorts if he could take photos Diana engaged in conversation with another Customs agent, saying that we had with another Customs agent, saying that we had Diana engaged in conversation must check in with Customs We were told we could proceed to anchor, but that we The man in shorts later asked Harold why the bottom of the boat was so clean. Harold why the bottom of the boat was so clean. The man in shorts later asked were told to wait. Then we Harold asked about the damage done to our boat. We The man in shorts said, “Well, you came from Venezuela!” He asked Diana sharp- The man in shorts said, “Well, out. Their only comment was Finally the Coast Guard safety inspection was carried More Customs personnel showed up. Others in casual attire showed up and stayed in casual attire showed personnel showed up. Others More Customs We were made to sit in the sun on the raw cement pier while numerous personnel cement pier while numerous to sit in the sun on the raw We were made Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico. We gave him a summary of the boarding and tried to express our concerns about the violation of our civil rights. Director Moore asked us to compose this summary of events. [ tion of our civil rights. He said he did not know who the man in shorts was, but that tion of our civil rights. He said he did not know who the he made inquiries. Later, he he would find out. We waited over an hour while was on his way over to returned with the name and said that the man in question talk to us. We informed him that we had no desire to speak with the man, and could we please have the form to file our complaint. version of the longer summary sent to Director Moore. received a courteous reception from the Venezuelan Customs and Immigration. We were boarded by the Venezuelan Coast Guard for a safety inspection while we were anchored off one of the Venezuelan islands. Again we were treated with respect and courtesy. and we were brought into the Coast Guard pier. He said that “as a courtesy we let and we were brought into the Coast Guard pier. He said brought to the pier under Customs use our pier”. We explained to him that we were inspection. We were never the statement that the Coast Guard would be doing safety informed that Customs wanted to board. Customs is a part) about the treatment we received and told them we would give them time to resolve our complaint. Since then, we have heard nothing from them. boarding — and were told that this was a Customs operation, and not Coast Guard!boarding — and were told that this was a Customs operation, this had been a Coast Guard operation, not Customs, and that we would need to this had been a Coast Guard operation, not Customs, given the name of a Coast contact the Coast Guard to file the complaint. We were office was closing. Guard supervisor. By this time it was 1630 and the Customs informed us that we needed to complete Form 95 ‘Claim for Damage, Injury, or informed us that we needed to complete Form 95 ‘Claim names of any of the personnel Death’. We explained to him that we did not know the and flip-flops had been very involved in our boarding, but that the man in shorts of our civil rights. rude and that we wanted to file a complaint about violation where. We got ourselves cleaned up and dressed and went to the Customs office, but where. We got ourselves cleaned up and dressed and went the Customs office and found it closed for lunch. At around 1400 we entered The lady behind the informed them that we were the boat arriving from Venezuela. that there would be counter said, “Okay, fill out these forms.” We were expecting of the situation. We then told some kind of report pending, but she seemed unaware distraught and that Diana her what had happened. She could tell that we were both us complete the necessary especially was upset by what had occurred. She helped supervisor. entrance paperwork and then told us she would get a and the pier. The man in shorts whispered, “Don’t even think about it — besides, and the pier. The man in shorts whispered, “Don’t even driving the boat.” Harold you are not getting a dime for your damage; you were a dock, command of a vessel stated that when lines are passed to personnel on off the dock.” passes into their hands. The man in shorts said, “Get Harold and Diana Thompson S/V Zephyrus come to St. Thomas to pick up our mail and to do some shopping. She told him that up our mail and to do some shopping. She told him that come to St. Thomas to pick our for the last 14 years and that this was going to be this boat has been our home in St. Thomas and wanted to make it our final landfall.” last sail. “We started sailing had never come here, and was confused by the abusive She also said she wished she a conversation between two men: “Aren’t these treatment. Harold then overheard you doing?” people US citizens? What are — and “tell them you are the boat from Venezuela”. Harold explained that the bottom had a good cleaning before departing Venezuela. bottom had a good cleaning before departing Venezuela. Harold explained that the a statement about being able to buy toxic bottom paint The man in shorts then made that our bottom paint was purchased from West in Venezuela. Harold explained Customs officer asked us if we had any pot on board. Marine in the US. Then a old and have never smoked pot in my life!” Harold replied, “I am 76 years damage was busy and did not were told that the person responsible for assessing the want to come down. ly about being in California in 2012, even though he had her passport, which showed in 2012, even though he had her passport, which showed ly about being in California throughout 2012. He asked her height, and had she ever she had been in Venezuela Diana told him that she had not been in California since been arrested in California. 1967 at the age of seven. that the head discharge needed to be in the closed position. away from us, but would look at us and then make some remark to the man in then make some remark but would look at us and away from us, was an atmo- themselves. There personnel never identified shorts. The Customs around showing man in shorts strutting being performed, with the sphere of a show what was happening. in shock. We did not understand off. We were both down in a hot boat for hours. needing a shower after being went aboard our vessel. The Customs man with the dog had difficulty in opening the with the dog had difficulty vessel. The Customs man went aboard our and “Don’t come was yelled at to sit down offered assistance. He lifeline gate. Harold with being handcuffed. me!” and was again threatened anywhere near — NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 DOMINICA YACHTSERVICES PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL, AZORES Incl. Pilots,Rigging Chandlery, Charts, TEL +351292391616FAX +351292391656 YACHT SERVICES - Relax!Leavetheworktous MID ATLANTIC Providing all vital services to Providing allvitalservices www.midatlanticyachtservices.com EU-VAT (16%)importation Duty free fuel(+10.000lt) Duty free Caribbean CompassMarketPlace Trans-Atlantic Yachts! www.dominicayachtservices.com [email protected] +767-448-7701 Fax +767-275-2851 Mobile/445-4322 Dominica Roseau &BaySt.Portsmouth 18 VictoriaSt. Hubert J.Winston [email protected] CARRIACOU REALESTATE Property ManagementonCarriacou Jeff Fisher–Grenada(473)537-6355 Tel: (473)4438187Fax:8290 [email protected] and bluewatercruising. harsh environmentofthechartertrade well-built sailsthatarewellsuitedtothe for acompetitivequoteonruggedand Check outourwebsiteorcontactusdirectly S.I.M.S. 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Stainless.com FREE NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 Indian River boats and their skippers are available for and their skippers are Indian River boats and fun to participate in this unique “We are happy the PCTA at their Tickets can be purchased from Mark@ For more information contact Lisa Bellot, organized the Dominica Poker Run. “We the Dominica Poker Lisa Bellot, organized Prince the list of reasons to drop by are adding to local supporting these important Rupert Bay while charities.” associations and drive” or want to “drink, dink and those who don’t own water transport. don’t have their PCTA our PAYS brothers,” says event along with to help pro- “Cobra” O’Brian, “and President Andrew tourist attractions.” mote the Portsmouth area Yacht Charters in Picard, Indian River office, Sanctuary restaurants and PAYS in Lagon, and participating rum punch is included sponsors. The infamous PAYS with all ticket purchases! CaptainMarksWay.com or [email protected]; (767) 445-4237; PCTA [email protected], (767) 245-0125, or PAYS [email protected], 245-6332. Andrew “Cobra” O’Brian (767)

PM on December 28th, 2014, PM Register online at www.yachtscoring.com. The NOR is Register online at www.yachtscoring.com. Run for December 2014 First Annual Dominica Poker Run is scheduled to The First Annual Dominica Poker Early Discount for St. Thomas International Regatta for St. Thomas International Early Discount Regatta The St. Thomas International Register now! so many in the Caribbean offers No other regatta big discount on early reg- Take advantage now of a The Poker Run stops at four local beach bars — “It will be a fun day for everyone and we have lined AST January 31, 2015 pay only US$250. The registration AST January 31, 2015 pay only March 24th, 2015 fee between February 1st and except US$250 for increases to US$400 for all boats, IC24s and PHRF boats. beach cats and US$300 for available at www.stthomasinternationalregatta.com. [email protected] For more information contact run from 12:00 to 5:00 (STIR) will take place March 27th through 29th, 2015, place March 27th through (STIR) will take exceptional its fourth decade with an continuing into STIR is yacht racing. The program of world-class that attracts its serious racing reputation renowned for skippers yacht designs and greatest both the latest as the across the globe as well and crews from rock stars. Caribbean’s hottest which to compete. classes and rating rules under Caribbean Sailing Teams are invited to enter in Performance Rule (HPR); Association (CSA); IRC; High for boats from the U.S. Multihull; CSA Bareboat; PHRF and Puerto Rico; Virgin Islands, British Virgin Islands classes with a minimum Beach Cats; and One-Design length of 20 feet. paid for in full by 5:00 istration. Entries received and starting and ending at the Portsmouth Area Yachting Services (PAYS) pavilion at the north end of Prince Rupert Bay. Dinghies, riverboats and other motorcraft are invited to participate in this event. Prince Rupert’s Tavern, Blue Bay Restaurant, Indian River Restaurant and Purple Turtle Restaurant — and culminates with the traditional PAYS Sunday barbecue party. The best poker hands made from the six cards collected from around the bay win prizes donated by local businesses and individuals. Proceeds from the event are distributed to the not-for-profit PAYS group, the Portsmouth Community Tourism Association (PCTA), and to local charities with the overall goal to promote yachting and tourism in the Portsmouth area of Dominica. up some great prizes, music and sponsors,” reports Mark Denebeim who, along with yachting enthusiast …Regatta News …Regatta Continued from page 15 Continued from Marine services from experienced companies are in from experienced companies Marine services regatta with is party central for the Prickly Bay Marina is not the biggest regatta IWW Grenada Sailing Week of our culture and we “Friendship is a deep part For more information see ad on page 13. Round Martinique Carnival Regatta The Round Martinique Carnival Regatta will run from The program will include three races along For more information plentiful supply and the capital of Grenada, St. and the capital of Grenada, plentiful supply entered a few minutes away. Yachts George’s, is just get 25 World Grenada Sailing Week for Island Water at Port fees for up to ten days percent off docking Louis Marina. There is top quality a lively bar and daily prizegivings. fantastic last night dinner live music every night with a Grenadian entertainment, and prizegiving. Traditional and a 40-piece steel including the Tivoli Drummers band, play their hearts out. committee is pas- in the Caribbean but the organizing sailors to the event and sionate about attracting more visit. making sure they have a memorable visitors to Grenada take immense pride in welcoming management is very but this is not enough; race ashore happy then important. If our guests come party started. that is a great way to get the regatta and where Everybody is welcome to the that suit groups of practical we can provide courses different race courses, boats. Last year we ran 12 to coastal courses for suitable for out-and-out racers of coming to Grenada beginners. If you are thinking you that you will not be for the first time, we assure of you returning to disappointed and for those Grenada; we will be delighted to see you again,” says Marc DeCaul, Board Chairman of Island Water World Grenada Sailing Week. February 13th through 15th, 2015. This new regatta is the result of combining the former Tour de la Martinique and the Martinique Carnival Regatta. Martinique’s southern and eastern coasts, through Marin and Robert to return to Fort-de-France Bay along the northern and western coasts. The regatta is open to all, with adjusted courses for the Tempest, Class40 and Cruising Classes. visit www.theroundmartinique.com. — NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 com Tel:(246)422-5370 E-mail: stepgrif352@gmail. ready forthesea.US$7,500 the beachinBarbadosbut 8Hp EvinrudeOB,trailer.On Canada. Sleeps4,galley, NORTHSTAR 25’GRP1977 Tel: (268)464-7333 Email: [email protected]. .US$65,000. LyingAntigua Good shape,runningverywell Structurally solidasarock! 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Gen-Set,A/C,white speedboat isavailablein POWERBOAT 47’ JAVELIN/FOUNTAIN 165.000US Tel: (758)4528531 E-mail: [email protected] 1983 34ftVINDÖ4540.000US 1987 IRWIN44MKII95.000US 2001 Bavaria46/3109.000US 1992 WARWICKCardinal46cc 2002 BENETEAU505175.000US 2003 GibSea51160.000US DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO P# DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO PG# LOCATION ADVERTISER PG# LOCATION LOCATION PG#ADVERTISER PG#ADVERTISER LOCATION ADVERTISER riigLf SG 32 23 27 MP MP St.Maarten MP 5 SVG Curaçao Dominica St.Lucia Martinique Martinique MP Dominica YachtServices MP Dockwise YachtTransport Diesel Outfitters Curaçao Marine Martinique22/MP MP Trinidad 29 Cruising Life 2 7 Crown Foods SVG 39 Clippers Ship SintMaarten MP Caribbean Propellers Trinidad Grenada Caribbean MarineElectrical MP St.Maarten 29 21 20 39 SVG Caraibe Marine Captain Gourmet Grenada Camper &Nicholsons Grenada Budget Marine Antigua Boat Paint&Stuff SVG SVG Blue LagoonHotel&Marina C/W Bequia Marina Barefoot YachtCharters B &CFuelDock Art Fabrik Art &Design Aero TechLab FORSALE

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Email: [email protected] Tel: (868)634-4934 TRINIDAD TT$70,000.00,ONO. HARBOUR SHUTTLE Grenada. Tel:(473)406-8217 Canadian flag,lying ing andliveaboardvessel. galley, 2helms.Greatcruis- strms, 2heads/shwr&tub, and reliable2xHinodiesels.2 38’ BAYLINER [email protected] with offers.E-mail:matthew. 2013. ContactMattSemark ions newOct2012.Surveyed Helm seats/aftsundeckcush- radio, aftswimdeck/ladder. toilet, navlights,newVHF (installed July’13).Head/ drive andaluminumprop New MercruiserBravo2stern 6LPA-STP2, 315HP,4–stroke. L-10.97m, B-2.44m,Yanmar BLACK PEARLVEDETTE [email protected] extras. US$55,000.E-mail: 220hp V6.Lotsofinstalled condition throughout.2x FORMULA 302002 or [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] (868) 684-7720/634-2259 USD75,000 ONOTel: maran, 3cabin,1head. Light weight,cruisingcata- 41’ ROGERSIMPSONDESIGN E-mail: [email protected] generator, newbatteries. steering/AP. Electricwindlass, els, 6’RIB/4hpMercury,self- Volvo. New130wsolarpan- 41' AMELKETCH1977 ADVERTISERS INDEX Economical Economical Immaculate LYING LYING CLASSIFIEDS 75 hp 75 hp e akPit CW 18 MP MP 19 C/W St.Lucia Trinidad Aruba MP Sea HawkPaints 10 6 Rodney BaySails Renaissance Marina Power Boats SVG Ottley HallMarina&Shipyard Tortola Tortola Off ShoreRiskManagement Northern LightsGenerators Nicholson's CaribbeanYachtSales E-mail: [email protected] Trinidad. Tel:(868)634-4346 US$22,000. PowerBoatsin tronics. Readyforcruising. ob, allsails,2anchors,elec- with dinghy,4hpYamaha Bukh diesel,wellequipped 37’ 1982COMET carriacouislander/forsale.htm www.lumbadive.com/ dition. US$9,900OBODetails: Fully equipped,goodcon- 33' ISLANDERSLOOP hotmail.co.uk US$25,000. Email:ron.dunn@ Marigot Bay,StLucia. ments, newtender.Lying fridge, Raymarineinstru- wind vane,solarpower, including standingrigging, bishment priortoARC2009 SADLER 291985 [email protected] (613) 931-1868E-mail: 11,340 sq/ft.US$125,000Tel: Quatre andMustique. view ofPetitNevis,Islea property withspectacular La Pompe,oceanfront BEQUIA- BUILDINGLOT islandpace.com 458-3544 Email:emmett@ Island PaceRealty.Tel:(784) land, buildings,equipment. ager for31yrs.Complete taurant. Sameowner-man- Bequia’s mostpopularres- Waterfront location, BEQUIA-MAC’S PIZZERIA www.bequialandforsale.com views, largelotsfromUS$5/sq.ft. BEQUIA -MT.PLEASANT [email protected] US$45,000. Robin,E-mail: ready tosail,lyingBequia, hauled outandrefurbished, Center cockpit.Recently GALAPAGOS 43`STEELKETCH RREDUCED! US$22,000 E PROPERTY FORSALE D U C E D !

U elPyeSis rnd MP MP 45 Grenada 39 Grenada 15 8 C/W Grenada MP Barbados 28 17 Neil PrydeSails MP DominicanRep MP Nauti Solutions C/W MP Multihull Company 11 Mount GayRegatta Azores Colombia PuertoRico Grenada Mid AtlanticYachtServices Trinidad McIntyre Bros Marina Zar-Par St.Lucia Marina SantaMarta Marina Pescaderia Marc OneMarine Mango BowlRegatta LIAT La Playa . Majorrefur- 7 tons 36 hp 7tons36hp S $

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www.cedarretreat.wordpress.com 2 baths,pool.Tel:(784)533-4865 Interesting &unusual,3bdrms, BEQUIA –MT.PLEASANT 5001 E-mail:[email protected] 443-6269 or+44208-621- EC$800,000 LauraTel:(473) Available immediately room, opensontogarden. apt has3bedrooms,1bath- large veranda.Downstairs has 2bedrooms,1bath, den on¼acre.Upstairsapt rey housewithfencedgar- Overlooking TyrrelBay.2sto- CARRIACOU -HERMITAGE www.caribtrace.com Grenadines andTyrrelBay. views overlookingSouthern and multi-acretracts.Great CARRIACOU LAND, hotmail.com deep water. waterfront withsteepdropoffto location. Including50'ofsand $10 sq/ftdependingonsizeand to 9,000sq.ft.PricesfromUS$5 access, plotsavailable.0.9acres Court Bay.Excellentviews,water GRENADA email: [email protected] Tel: (784)4951177 excellent long-termrates. cable TV.2weeksminimum, view, coolbreeze.Internet, verandah andpatio,stunning or 1bedstudioapartment.Big Large 2bedroomhouseand/ LA POMPE,BEQUIA www.cedarretreat.wordpress.com & pool.Tel:(784)533-4865. Dec/Jan/Feb, 3bdrms,2baths Tahiti igloo,Rentalsavailable BEQUIA –MT.PLEASANT E-mail: [email protected] son. Tel:(784)455-3822 safe, readyforthenewsea- Private dinghydock,clean& of theyachtingharbor. door toahotelinthecentre Water frontlocationnext RESTAURANT/BAR FORLEASE UNION ISLAND–CLIFTON- YOUR CLASSIFIED ISON-LINE! RENTALS - East side Clarkes -EastsideClarkes E-mail aauMrn Vnzea 41 9 47 Venezuela St.Maarten YSATT Trinidad Trinidad 12 YES Martinique MP Grenada11/MP 16 Yacht SteeringCommittee Xanadu Marine MP Venezuela WIND Martinique PuertoRico 9 Venezuelan MarineSupply MP Ulman Sails C/W 14 Turbulence Sails St.Maarten MP The NatureConservancy MP SVG Technick Grenada Sunbay Marina St.Lucia MP Grenada Sugar ReefBequiaLtd St. MaartenSails St. LuciaTouristBoard MP MP SpotlessStainless C/W Slipway Restaurant streetiolaire@ Lots C/W =Caribbean-wide MP =MarketPlacepages42to44

com/specials.htm at http://doylecaribbean. EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIALDEALS SAILS ANDCANVAS [email protected] Tel: (784)528-7273E-mail: Fully rebuilt,zerohrs. marine engines/ZFtransmissions. 3208 CATERPILLARS2x3208375hp E-mail: [email protected] http://www.smudge.com/ of water.Offers.Detailsat approx 35’&onein16’ Plantation House;onein 2x block&chainmoorings.Off ADMIRALTY BAY,BEQUIA [email protected] Tel: (268)764-2689E-mail: starters, 3xliftpumps.Offers. pumps, 3xinjection 300 series)3xfreshwater Model T6068T,TFM01(oldstyle, JOHN DEEREENGINEPARTS, [email protected] [email protected] knowledge aplus fishing &marinemechanical Dominica. Experienceinsport watching boat,41’SeaRayin ate sportfishing&whale- QUALIFIED CAPTAIN http://tinyurl.com/o3zkygo ers haven.Seeourad moorings &recognizedcruis- Floating artgallery,rental Live thedreaminTonga. SOUTH PACIFICLIFESTYLE dominicamarinecenter.com er. Tel:(767)440-2628Email:info@ as weareaMercuryMarinedeal- Engines comewithFULLwarranty could notpaythebalance. tomer thatpurchasedthem below dealerpricingasthecus- pellers. Sellingatdiscountand ENGINES 2 X300XSMERCURYSRACING BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY MISC. FORSALE . NewS/SMiragepro- tooper- E-mail:

NOVEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47

Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Guardian Media Limited, Trinidad & Tobago