INDEX

COMPILED BY RALPH FERRARA AND EVE TALLMAN

Mountains are listed by their official names and ranges; quotation marks indicate unofficial names. Ranges and geographic locations are also indexed. Unnamed peaks (e.g. Peak 2,340) are listed under P. Abbreviations are used for some states and countries and for the following: Article: art.; Cordillera: C.; Mountains: Mts.; National Park: Nat’l Park; Obituary: obit. Most per- sonnel are listed for major articles. Expedition leaders and persons supplying information in Climbs and Expeditions are also cited here. Indexed photographs are listed in bold type. Reviewed books are listed alphabetically under Book Reviews.

Araiz, Iñaki 288 A Arbones, Toni 362-3 Aberger, Johann 227 Arch Canyon (UT) 176 Abi Gamin (Central Garhwal, India) 381 Arches Nat’l Park (UT) 175 Achey, Jeff 181, 271 Ares Tower (WA) 157 Ackroyd, Peter 391-3, 476-7 Argan Kangri (, India) 369-70 Aconcagua (Argentina) 304-7, 306 Argentiere Peak “P.9,620” (Tordrillo Mts., AK) 210, 210 Acopán Tepui (Venezuela) 296-8 Argentina 302-24 Adamant Group (Selkirk Mts., CAN) 233-4 Arizona 174 Afghanistan 344-6 Armed Forces, P.(Tajikistan) 352-3 Africa 332-9 Arran, Anne 296-8 Agdlerussakasit (Greenland) 266-9 Arran, John 296-8 Agrada (Siberia, Russia) 343-4 Arunachal Pradesh (India) 386-7 Ak Su (Kyrgyzstan) 350-2, 351 Asgard, Mt. (Baffin Is., CAN) 222 Akela Qilla “CB 46” (Lahul, India) 373-4 Ashagiri (Lahul, India) 374 Aklangam (Kashgar Range, ) 418 Ashlu, Mt. (B.C., CAN) 230 Alaska 186-218 Asnococha (C. Apolobamba, Peru) 295 Alaska Range (AK) 186-211 Athearn, Lloyd 465-7 , Mt. (, CAN) 238-9 Athos Spire (Coast Mts., CAN) 228 Almirante Nieto, Cerro 320-1 Atkinson, Bill 481-2 Alpamayo (C. Blanca, Peru) 277 Atlas Mts. (Morocco) 332 Altan, Folco Doro 139, 151 Avellano Tower (Chilean Patagonia) 307-8 Ama Dablam (Nepal) 388 Azuke, Garo 385-6 Amelunxen, Conny 292-3 Amotsang (Damodar Himal, Nepal) 393 Ancohuma (C. Real, ) 301 B Babanov, V. art. 24-33, 26, 29, 31; 126, 240, 244 5,406-7 Anderson River (B.C., CAN) 231 Babu Chiri (Tshering) 405 Anderson, Dave 231, 307-8 Bachman, Cerro (Chile) 302 Anderson, Hauge 248-51 Bader Valley (Paine, Patagonia) 323 Anderson, Jerry 171-2 Baffin Icefield Traverse (Baffin Is., CAN) 222-4;map 223 Andres, Alain 385-6 Baffin Island (CAN) 222-4 Andrews, Mt.“P.13,790’” (Alaska Range, AK) 194-5 Bagov, Valeri 361 Ang Rita Sherpa 437-8 Bailey Trail (Arunachal Pradesh, India) 386-7 Anker, Conrad 100, 325, 376, 378-9, 434-5 Balchen, Mt. (Hayes Range, AK) 187, 188 Annapurna Himal (Nepal) art. 106-115; 394 Baldwin, Ralph 332-5 Annapurna III (Nepal) art. 106-115, 106; 394 Balezin, Valery 343 Antarctic Peninsula (Antarctica) 329-31 Baltoro Muztagh () 366 Antarctica art. 60-73; 325-31 Baroness (Greenland) 269-70 Anthamatten, Simon 380-1 Barrill, Mt. (Ruth Gorge, AK) 200, 204 Antofalla (Argentina) 302 Beckey, Fred 229, 231-2 Api-Nampa-Saipal region (Nepal) 388-9 Belcourt, Bill 122 Appleyard, Bob 254 Belczynski, Chris 206-7, 321-3, 323 Aragorn, Mt. (B.C., CAN) 230 487

Bell Mtn. (ID) 184-5 Kenneth Conboy 465-7 Benegas, Damian art. 14-23; 407-8 The Stettner Way: The Life and Climbs of Joe Benegas, Willie art. 14-23, 22; 407-8 and Paul Stettner by Jack Gorby 458-9 Benoist, Stéphane art. 90-4, 377 Tenzing: Hero of Everest by Ed Douglas 442-3 Benowitz, Jeff Apple 188-9, 206 Under a Sheltering Sky: Journeys to Mountain Bentley, Tony 163 Heartlands by Colin Monteath 462-3 Bertoglio, Valerio 283 Where the Mountain Casts its Shadow: The Beu-tse (Tibet) 429-30, 429 Dark Side of Extreme Adventure by Maria Beyer, Jim 222 Coffey 445-7 Bhagirathi (Gangotri, India) 380 With a Camera in My Hands: William O. Field, Bhagirathi III (Gangotri, India) 367, 380-1 Pioneer Glaciologist by William O. Field 464-5 Biggar, John 294-5 Yosemite: Half a Century of Dynamic Rock Birch Mtn. (Sierra Nevada, CA) 170-1 Climbing by Alexander Huber 460 Birkuti (Damodar Himal, Nepal) 392 Borah Peak (ID) 184 Bjørnstad, Eric 174-5 Borbon, Ray 231-2 Black Canyon of the Gunnison (CO) 178-81 Borkolday Range (Kyrgyzstan) 347-9 Blackhorn, Mt. (Coast Mts., CAN) 232-3 Bouchard, John 472-4 Blade, The (Coast Mts., CAN) 228 Bow Valley (Canadian Rockies, CAN) 238 Blanchard, Barry 32, 122, 125, 239 Bowers, Bean 312-4, 315 Blockhouse (WA) 163 Bowles, Mt. (Antarctica) 330 Bogino, Pierre 301 Bracali, Dario 303 Bohórquez, Antonio Gómez 277-8, 282-3, 284 Bradley, Mt. 205 Bolivia 300-1 Bragg, John 139, 143, 148-9, 153-4 Bonanza Peak (WA) 160-1, 160 Bransby, Ben 312-4, 315-6 Bonatti, Walter 139, 151 Bravo, Claudio 303 Bonete Chico (Argentina) 302 Brayshaw, Drew 229-31 Bonnington, Sir Christian 369, 383 Brazier, Jay 157 Book Reviews 440-69 Britannia, Mt. (Danco Is., Antarctica) 66 The Beckoning Silence by Joe Simpson 449-5 Broderick, Sam 409-10 C. Bonnington’s Everest by C. Bonnington 440-2 Brown, Katie 463-4 Dougal Haston: The Philosophy of Risk Brown, Mt. (MT) 185 by Jeff Connor 450-52 Buchwald, Kurt 160-2 Everest: 50 Years on Top of the World, Buckner, Mt. (WA) 157 The Official History by George Band 440-2 Bugaboos (Purcell Mts., B.C. CAN) 234-7 Everest: Summit of Achievement Buhler, Carlos 214-6, 275-7 by Stephen Venables 440-2 Buil, Cecilia 267-9 Frank Smythe: The Six Alpine/Himalayan Bullock, Nick 51, art. 52-5; 285, 396-8 Climbing Books by Frank Smythe 454-6 Bunker, Mark art. 34-9, 39; 158 Good Morning Midnight: Life and Death in the Burcham, John 255-7 Wild by Chip Brown 467-9 Burdet, Denis 362-3 Himalayan Quest: Ed Viesturs on the 8,000 Burdick, David 162, 453-4 Meter Giants by Ed Viesturs 467 Burke, Phil 146, 149-50, 153 Himalayan Vignettes: Garwhal and Sikkim Burney, Mt. (Patagonia, Chile) 324 Treks by Kekii Naoroji 452-3 Burns, Cameron 435, 458-9 Imperial Ascent: Mountaineering, Masculinity, Butler, The (Greenland) 266-7 and Empire by Peter L. Bayers 444-5 Byers, Dr. Alton 436-8 Mount McKinley’s West Buttress: The First Ascent - Brad Washburn’s Logbook, 1951 459-60 C Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 7th ed. Caldwell, Tommy 165, 168-9, 178 edited by Steven M. Cox and Kris Fulsaas 456-7 California 165-74 Mountains of the Mind by Robert Macfarlane 444-5 Callijon (C. Apolobamba, Peru) 295 The Naked Mountain by Reinhold Messner 447-8 Calumachaya Buttress (C. Apolobamba, Peru) 294-5 Ordeal by Piton: Writings from the Golden Age Camballa (C. Vilcabamba, Peru) 292 of Yosemite Climbing edited by Steve Roper 461-2 Campbell-Kelly, Ben 143, 149, 154 Range of Glaciers: The Exploration and Survey art. 133-7; 219-47 of the Northern Cascade Range by Fred Beckey Canadian Rockies, (CAN) art. 133-7; 237-246 453-4 Cape Farewell (Greenland) 259-70 Southeastern Rock by Harrison Shull 463-4 Carse, Jimmy 273-4 Spies in the Himalayas: Secret Missions and Carse, Peter 293-4 Perilous Climbs by M.S. Kohli and Carter, Ad 13 488 T HE A MERICAN A LPINE J OURNAL, 2004

Cartwright, Jules 396-8 (Peru) 294-5 Castle Greyskull (Coast Mts., AK/CAN) 231, 231 Cordillera Blanca (Peru) 275-84, 435-6 Cathedral Park (B.C., CAN) 229 Cordillera Central (Peru) 289-92 Cathedral Rock (Death Canyon, WY) 182 Cordillera Chaupijanca (Peru) 284 Catlin, Alex 271-4 Cordillera Huayhuash (Peru) arts. 48-51, 52-5, 56-9; Caton, Jasmin 224-5 284-9; map 50 Caucasus (Russia) 343 Cordillera Real (Bolivia) 300-1 CB 44 (Lahul, India) 373-4, 373 Cordillera Vilcabamba (Peru) 292-3 CB 46 (Lahul, India) See Akela Qilla Cordillera Vilcanota (Peru) 293-4 CB 48 (Lahul, India) See Tombu Corominas, Jordi 282 CB 49A (Lahul, India) See Jori Courage, Sean 157 Cesen, Ales 346-7 Coven, The (Greenland) 257-8, 257 Chabot, Doug 376, 378-9 Cox, Steven M. 482-3 Chacraraju Este (C. Blanca, Peru) 58, 278-80, 279 Crapo, Mike 229 Chalten Massif (Patagonia) 308-18 Cuerno Chico (Paine, Patagonia) 323 Chang Tang (Tibet) 423 Cuerno Oeste (Paine, Patagonia) 323 Charakusa Valley (Pakistan) art. 95-105, 95, 100; Culbert, Vance 470 364-6, 365 Cusick, Brendan 192 Chehalis area (B.C., CAN) 230 Czarsky Tron (Siberia, Russia) 343 Chephren, Mt. (Canadian Rockies, CAN) 240 Chiappa, Daniele 154 D Chihuahua (Mexico) 271 Dalbagni, Gianni 151-2 Chile 302-24 Daly Bjerge (Greenland) 249 Chin, Jimmy 335, 427 Dam, Commander Satyabrata 370-1, 381 China 415-22 Damodar Himal (Nepal) 391-3 Chkhetiani, Otto 416-8 Danco Is. (Antarctica) 65-7 Cho Oyo (Nepal/Tibet) 388, 426 Danish Polar Centre 248-51 Cho, Lee Sang 376-7 Dansketinde (Staunning Alps, Greenland) 251-3, 252-3 Cholatse (Malahangur Himal, Nepal) 401-2, 401 Darack, Ed 459-60 Chopicalqui (C. Blanca, Peru) 282 Das, PM 382 Chopping Block (WA) 158 Dash, Micah art. 40-7; 166, 265-6 Choudens, Antoine de 363-4 Davis, Steph 460 Chowdhury, Ashim Kumar Ghosh 373-4 Davison, Brian 255 Chugach Mts. (AK) 211-14 Dawa Kangri (Spiti, India) 374 Chukporisum (Tibet) 430-1 Dawson, Bob 253 Chumpe “Jatunriti” (C. Vilcanota, Peru) 293, 294 Daxue Shan (China) 418-20 Churup (C. Blanca, Peru) 284 Deavoll, Pat 199-200 Cirque of the Unclimbables (N.W.T., CAN) 226-7 Delta Range (AK) 188-9 Citadel, The (Kichatna Spires, AK) 2, 190, 206-8, 207 Denali (Alaska Range, AK) 189-94, 192 Citta di Rieti (Argentina) 302 Denali Nat’l Park and Preserve (AK) 189-200 Clère, Arnaud 389 Desmochada (Patagonia) 312-4 Cloud Peak (Ladakh, India) See Saser Kangri IV Dhaulagiri Himal (Nepal) 390-1 Clouet, Aymeric 51, art. 56-9; 278-80, 285 Dhaulagiri II (Dhaulagiri Himal, Nepal) 390-1, 390 Clyma, Julie-Ann 418-20 Dial, Roman 470-2 Coast Mts. (B.C., CAN) 228-33 Dickey, Mt. (Ruth Gorge, AK) 200-3, 200, 202 Collins, Greg 182 Dido, Mt. (Antarctica) 328-9, 329 Colorado 178-81 Diehl, Carl 238 Colossal (Adamant Group, CAN) 233 Docter, Boud 278 Colquecruz I “Alcamarinayoc” (C. Vilcanota, Peru) Donahue, Topher 165, 169, 178, 180, 233, 434 293-4, 294 Donini, Jim 139, 143, 148-9, 153-4 Colwell, Doug 479 Dornian, David art. 116-27 Computers 16 Dragon Peak (Canadian Rockies, CAN) 238 Condon, Jia 246 Dragonback East Peak (Coast Mts., CAN) 228 Constant, Seb 204-5, 398-400 Dragontail Peak (WA) 164 Conti, Mario 154 Draiocht Parvat “P.6,175m” (Central Garhwal, India) 381 Cool, Kenton art. 106-115; 394 Drakensberg Mts. (South Africa) 338-9 Copa, Nevado (C. Blanca, Peru) 283 Dronning Maud Land (Antarctica) 328 Copp, Jonathan 178, 194-5, 313, 316, 380 DuBuque, Armond 195-6 Corax, Janne 423 Dunmire, Glenn 214-6 Cordes, Kelly 178, 194-5, 282, 10 Dunn, Jimmy 175 I NDEX 489

Durnan, Richard 384-5 Gamache, Martin 284 Gangotri (India) 374-81 E Gangotri Nat’l Park (India) 374-5 East Fuller Butte (Sierra Nevada, CA) 171-2, 171-2 Garfield, Mt. (WA) 157 East Peak (Latus Pass Arm, CAN) 221 Garhwal Himalaya (India) arts. 82-94; 381-3 Easton, Sean 230 Garhwal, Central (India) 381 Easy-Heather Traverse (WA) 159 Garhwal, Eastern (India) 382-3 Echevarría, Evelio 284, 302 Garibotti, Rolando art. 138-55; 238, 308-9, 318 Edwards, Guy obit. 470 Gasherbrum IV (Pakistan) 366 Egger, Toni 49, 140-52 Gaugiri (Damodar Himal, Nepal) 391-3 Egger, Torre 309 Geisler, Chris 234-5 El Capitan (Yosemite, CA) 165-6, 168-9 Geist, Mt. (Hayes Range, AK) 187 El Cóndor, Cerro (Argentina) 302 Gemelos, Los (Argentina) 304 El Gigante (Parque Nacional Cascada de Baseachic, Genereux, Andy 238 Mexico) 272-3 George, Adam 384-5 El Pilar (Chihuahua, Mexico) 271 Gerdine, Mt. (Tordrillo Mts., AK) 208-10, 209 Ellsworth Mts. (Antarctica) 325-8 Gez (Kashgar Range, China) 416, 417 Elqui Valley (Chile) 302 Ghost Valley (Canadian Rockies, CAN) 238 Embick, Andrew M.D. obit. 470-2 Giarolli, Maurizio 150 Erard, Philip 480-81 Gibson, Miles 270 Erika (Argentina) 304 Giddings, Mt. (Hayes Range, AK) 187 Eruc, Erden 190 Gildea, Damien 325, 329-31 Esfinge, La (C. Blanca, Peru) 277-8, 278 Gilmore, Ben 240, 377 Everest Alpine Conservation and Restoration Project Glacier Nat’l Park (MT) 185 436-8 Glairon-Rappaz, Patrice art. 90-4, 377 Everest, Mt. (Nepal/Tibet) 14, 403-6, 426, 436-8 Glazirin, Y. 343 Eye Tooth (Ruth Gorge, AK) 201-3, 201 Glick, Lorne 195-6, 197 Golden Dragon “Sir Duk or Jin Long” (Tibet) 427, 428 F Good Neighbor Pk (Kluane Nat’l Park Reserve, CAN) 220 Fabbri, Nicolas 308 Good Neighbor Peak (St. Elias Mts., AK) 216-7, 216 Farré, Xavi 290-1, 395-6 Gorky P.(Kyrgyzstan) 346-7 Father and Sons Wall (Denali, AK) 190-1, 191 Gorur Parbat (Eastern Garhwal, India) 382 Fava, Cesarino 139-52 Grand Canyon (AZ) 174 Fengler, Klaus 318-20 Grand Teton (WY) 181-2 Fenris (Antarctica) art. 74-81, 76; 328 Grand Teton Nat’l Park (WY) 181-2 Fernández, Diego 288-9, 290 Grandes Jorasses (France) art. 128-32, 128 Ferrari, Casimiro 139, 154 Grauer, Jack 483-4 Fief Range (Weincke Is., Antarctica) 64-5 Graybeard (WA) 158-9 Firth, Ben 237, 241, 243-4 Grazizni, Yannick 360-1 Fisher Peak (WA) 159 Great Trango (Pakistan) 362 Fitz Roy (Patagonia) 139, 308-9, 310-13, 311, 316 Greenland art. 40-7; 284-270 Foraker, Mt. (Alaska Range, AK) 189 Greyskull Valley (Coast Mts., AK/CAN) 231 Foresta, Mt. (St. Elias Mts., AK) 218, 218 Griffin, Lindsay 253-4, 259, 270, 278, 281-2, 288-9, Formidable, Mt. (WA) 161-2, 161 292, 294-5, 301, 304, 331, 354-8, 360-2, 373, Fortress (Vampire Spires, CAN) 225-6 380-1, 383-4, 396, 401, 407-8, 411-3, 423, 425 Fowler, Mick 418, 420 Grmovsek, Andrej 420-2 France art. 128-32 Grobel, Paulo 393 Frank, Andi 409-10 Gromovoy “Thunder” P.(Borkolday Range, French, Adam 435-6 Kyrgyzstan) 348 Friday, Thad art. 40-7; 265-6 Gross, Josh 179, 227, 314-5 Friedlin, Sacha 246 Grosvenor, Mt. (Daxue Shan, China) 418-20, 418-9 Friesland, Mt. (Antarctica) 329-31 Guillaumet, Aguja (Patagonia) 310, 311 Frimer, Jeremy art. 48-51; 230 Gulmatonga Tower (, India) 368-9 Frush, Jim 391-3 Gunnar Naslund , Mt. “P.12,659” (St. Elias Mts., Fuller, Sue 259-60 AK) 214-6, 215 Furman, Steve 391-3 Gurkarpo Ri (Jugal Himal, Nepal) 396 Furrowed Peak (Coast Mts., CAN) 228 Guyana 298-300 Gyajikang (Peri Himal, Nepal) 394 G Gadd, Will 121, 239-40 490 T HE A MERICAN A LPINE J OURNAL, 2004

Hungchi (Malahangur Himal, Nepal) 400-1 H Hungchi (Tibet) 426 H.H. Benedict Range (Greenland) 249 Hunter, Mt. (Alaska Range, AK) 10, 190, 195-6, 197 Haas, Christian 427-8 Huntington, Mt. (Ruth Gorge, AK) 204 Habrich, Mt. (B.C., CAN) 230 Hüttenturm (Ruth Gorge, AK) 205 Hack, Jay 219 Huxley, Mt. (St. Elias Mts., AK) 214-6 Haeussler, Peter 205 Hahn, Dave 442-3 Hajji Brakk (Pakistan) art. 95-105, 95, 99; 366 I Iannilli, Roberto 373 Haley, Colin art. 34-9, 36, 39; 156-8, 232-3 Ibex Peak (Anderson River, B.C., CAN) 213 Half Dome (Greenland) 47, 265 Idaho 183-5 Hancock, Rod 211 Igdlorssuit Havn (Greenland) 269-70 Hand of Fatima (Mali) 3, 335-7, 335-6 Illusión (C. Real, Bolivia) 300-1 Harlin, John III 12-3 India arts. 82-94; 367-87 Hart, Dave 216-7 Inflexible, Mt. (Canadian Rockies, CAN) 246 Harvard Spire (Coast Mts., CAN) 228 Inspiration Peak (WA) 158 Hasler, Bruno 203-4 Inylchek Region (Kyrgyzstan) 346-7 Hawley, Elizabeth 388-91, 393-6, 403-7, 413-4, 426-7 Isaac, Sean 236-7 Hayes Glacier (Tordrillo Mts., AK) 208-10 Ishkashimsky Range (Tajikistan) 352-3 Hayes Range (AK) 186-88 Isla de Los Estados (Tierra del Fuego, Argentina) 324 Hayes Volcano (Tordrillo Mts., AK) 208-9 Ivanek, Branko 300-1 Helling, Josh art. 74-81, 75; 328 Herron, Punta (Patagonia) 309 Hess, Mt. (Hayes Range, AK) 186-7 J Hidalgo, Richard 289 Jackson, Renny 181 Hildes, Dave art 60-73 Jakofcic, Tomaz 320-1 Hillary Sir Edmund 404, 413-4 Jancik, John 250-1 Himachal Pradesh (India) 374-81 Jannu (Kangchenjunga Himal, Nepal) 411-2, 412 Himalaya (Pakistan/Tibet) 355-7, 423-7 Janschek, Peter 338-9 Himalayan Cataract Project 438 Jasper, Robert art. 128-32; 318-20, 319 Himlung (Peri Himal, Nepal) 394-5 Jenkins, Mark 7 Hirai, Kazumasa 431-2 Jensen-Choi, Peter 401-2 Hirayama, Yuji 165 Jensenland (Greenland) 248-283 Hispar Muztagh (Pakistan) 358-61 Jernej, Arcon 283 Hiyong (Kangri Garpo Range, Tibet) 433 Jirishanca (C. Huayhuash, Peru) cover, arts. 48-51, Holecek, M. 350 48, 52-5, 56-9, 56; 285-6 Holeczi, Steve 239 Johnson, Frederick O. 476-85 Hollenbaugh, Jeff 201-3, 201, 282-3 Johnson, Mt. (Ruth Gorge, AK) 203 Horn, The (Adamant Group, CAN) 233-4, 234 Johnston, Scott 125-6 Horne, Greg 222-4 Jomson (Damodar Himal, Nepal) 393 Hospers, Al 447-8 Jones, Hank 225-6 Houlding, Leo 316-7 Jones, Kevin 226 House, Steve arts. 95-105, 133-7, 105, 135, 137; 32, Jones, Sean 166-8 117-20, 127, 158-9, 201-3, 240, 364-6 Jonglez, David 340-1 Howser Tower, North (Bugaboos, CAN) 236 Jordan, Rodrigo 327-8 Howser Tower, South (Bugaboos, CAN) 234-6, 236 Jori “CB 49A”(Lahul, India) 373-4 Hristov, Hristo art. 82-5, 84-5, 378 Josephson, Joe 120-1 Huaguruncho, Nevado (C. Central, Peru) 290-2, 291 Jourdain, Didier 51, art. 56-9; 278-80, 285 Huandoy Este (C. Blanca, Peru) 280-1, 280 Jugal Himal (Nepal) 395-6 Huandoy Norte (C. Blanca, Peru) 280-1, 281 Huandoy Sur (C. Blanca, Peru) 280-1 K Huarochirí (C. Central, Peru) 289 K7 (Pakistan) art. 95-105, 103 Hubbard, Alun art. 60-73, 73 Kaffeklubben Is. (Greenland) 248 Huber, Alex 4, 165, 169 Kaga Pamari (Mali) 336 Huber, Thomas 165, 169 Kaga Tondo (Mali) 335, 337, 336 Huey Spire, East (Cirque of the Unclimbables, CAN) 227 Kahiltna Dome (Alaska Range, AK) 192-3 Hüfner, Alard 321, 337-8 Kahiltna Queen (Alaska Range, AK) See Humble Peak Huincho (C. Apolobamba, Peru) 295 Kalanka (Eastern Garhwal, India) 382-3, 383 Humar, Tomaz 305-7, 357, 407 Kambic, Monica 308 Humble Peak “Kahiltna Queen”“P.12,380’” (Alaska Kamet (Central Garhwal, India) 381 Range, AK) 197-9, 198 Kammerlander, Hans 32-3, 406-7 I NDEX 491

Kananaskis Country (Alberta, CAN) 246 Kangchenjunga (Kangchenjunga Himal, Nepal) L L’S, Aguja de (Patagonia) 316-7 388, 412-3 Labchi Kang Group (Tibet) 425 Kangchenjunga Himal (Nepal) 411 Labchi Kang I (Tibet) 425 Kangerdlugssuaq (Greenland) 255 Labchi Kang II (Tibet) 425 Kangri Garpo Range (Tibet) 431-3 Lacelle, Guy 239 Kanjiroba Himal (Nepal) 390 Ladakh (India) 369-71 Kanjut Sar (Pakistan) 360 Lafaille, Jean Christophe 355-7 Kantega (Nepal) 410 Lahul, India 371-4 Kapadia, Harish 367, 369-70, 374, 376-8, 382-4, 386-7 Laing, Ken 230 (Pakistan) 357-8 Lampak I (Eastern Garhwal, India) 382 Karavshin (Kyrgyzstan/Tajikistan) 350-2 Lampak II (Eastern Garhwal, India) 382 Karl Marx, P.(Tajikistan) 352-3 Land, Mt. (B.C., CAN) 230 Karpo (Nepal) 395 Lane, David 169-70 Kashgar Range (China) 416-8 Langtang Himal (Nepal) 395 Kashmir (India) 368-9 Langtang Ri (Nepal) 395 Kaszlikowshi, David 206-7 Larcher, Rolando 332 Kay, Brian “Coiler” 166 Latok V (, Pakistan) 361 Kedar Dome (Gangotri, India) 375-6, 376 Latus Pass Arm (Kluane Nat’l Park Reserve, CAN) Kellogg, Chad 189-90 220-1, 221; map 220 Khamjungar Glacier (Damodar Himal, Nepal) 392 Lavrinenko, Alexander 362 Khangri Shar (Nepal) 402-3 Lawson Cameron 375-6 Khumbu Climbing School 434-5 Lawson, Erick 192-3 Khunyang Chhish (Pakistan) 358-60, 359 Lebedev, Andrei 416-8 Khunyang Chhish East (Pakistan) 360 Lemon Mts. (Greenland) 254 Kichatna Spire (Alaska Range, AK) 206 Lenpo Gang “Big White Peak” (Nepal) 396 Kichatna Spires (Alaska Range, AK) 190, 206-8 Levakov, Nikola art. 82-5, 83, 378 Kigluaik Mts. (AK) 186 Lhotse (Nepal) 408-9, 409 Kimball, Mt. (Delta Range, AK) 188-9 Libecki, Mike art 74-81; 255-7, 328 King Peak (CAN) 217 Linblade, Andrew 366 Kinntanna (Antarctica) 77 Linek, Vlado 277-8 Kirkpatrick, Andy 126 Little Big Chief Mtn. (WA) 163 Kitchener, Mt. (Canadian Rockies, CAN) 237, 240, Little Horn (WA) 159 241, 241 Littlejohn, Pat 347-8 Kluane Nat’l Park Reserve (CAN) 219-21 Liverpool Land (Greenland) 253 Knott, Paul 218 Livingston Is. (Antarctica) 329-31 Knud Rasmussen Land (Greenland) 253-4 Lofoten Islands (Norway) 340-2 Koch, Stephen 427 Logan, Mt. (Kluane Nat’l Park Reserve, CAN) 219-20 Kohl, Eric 166 Logan, Mt. (WA) 159-60 Koksel (Kashgar Range, China) 417 London Bridge (Ruth Gorge, AK) 203-5, 204 Kokshaal-Too (Kyrgyzstan) 347-9 Lopera, Maikey 296 Kolesov, O.P. 343-4 Lords, Dean 183-5 Kopold, Dodo 371-3 Loretan, Erhard 411 Koshelenko, Yuri art. 24-33, 31; 407 Los Corrales Valley (Chile) 302 Kost, Danny 214 Losar Valley (Spiti, India) 374 Kova P.(Kashmir, India) 368-9 Lowe, Jeff 32, 121-2 Kovacs, Adam 280-1 Loyola, Inigo 394-5 Kozelj, Ales 305-7 Lucchini, Tito 151 Kreisinger, Jan 335, 343 Luigi, Mt. (Weincke Is., Antarctica) 65, 70 Kronprins Frederiks Berge (Greenland) 255 Krylia Sovetov (Kyrgyzstan) 348-9, 349 Kullar, Col. DK 370-1 M Kumaon (India) 383-4 MacDonald, Dougald 181 Kun Lun Mts. (, China) 415-6 Machermo (Nepal) 388 Kunter, Christian 412-3 Maestri, Cesare art. 138-55, 138 Kyashar “P.43” (Nepal) 409-11 Magdaleno, Raul 357 Kyrgyzstan 346-52 Mahalangur Himal (Nepal) 411 Kysylsel (Kashgar Range, China) 417 Mahoney, Kevin 240, 377 Malahangur Himal (Nepal) 396-411 Mali 335-7 492 T HE A MERICAN A LPINE J OURNAL, 2004

Malubiting Central (Pakistan) 357-8 Mountain of Israeli-Palestinian Friendship Maoist Encounters (Nepal) 413-4 (Antarctica) 331 Marcus Baker, Mt. (Chugach Mts., AK) 211-14, 213 Mulkey, Aaron 183 Margherita P.(Uganda) See Stanley, Mt. Murallon, Cerro (Patagonia, Argentina) 318-20, 319 Mark (Greenland) 266-7, 267 Muratti, Glauco 304 Marra, Dave 238-9, 242-3, 246 Mustagh Ata (Kun Lun Mts., China) 415-6 Mars, P.(Borkolday Range, Kyrgyzstan) 348 Myung-Sin, Kim 396 Marshall, Philip S. 186-7 Martel, Lynn 484-5 N Martin, Nathan 44-52, 61-2 Na Gore U South (Damodar Himal, Nepal) 392 Martin, Tom 174 Nagishlamina (Tordrillo Mts., AK) 211, 211 Martino, Nick 235-6 Nakamura, Masakatsu 426 Masherbrum (Pakistan) 95-6, 364-6 Nakamura, Tamotsu 426 Masherbrum Range (Pakistan) 364-6 Nalumasortoq (Greenland) art. 40-7, 40; 260-6, 263 Matawi Tepui (Venezuela) 296 Namibia 337-8 Matsumoto, Yukio 433 Nanga Parbat (Pakistan) 355-7 Maujit Qoqarsassia (Greenland) 267-9, 268 Nayser Brakk (Pakistan) 101 Mauri, Carlo 139, 145, 151-3 Needle Mtn. (WY) 183 Mayakovsky, P.(Tajikistan) 352-3 Needle, The (Semersoq Is., Greenland) 259-60 Mayet, Pierre 259-60 Negri, Pino 155 McAleese, Stu 207-8 Nepal arts. 14-23, 24-33; 388-414, 434-5, 436-8 McAllister, Tim 233-4 Nesakwatch Spire, South (B.C., CAN) 230 McClure, Steve 270 Newcomb, Mark 182 McCray, Brian 177-8 Nick, Christoph 295 McFadden, Chad 415-6 Niut Range (Coast Mts., CAN) 228 McGee, Craig 230 Niwu Valley (Nyainqentangla East Range, Tibet) 430-1 McGown, Bob 477-8 Norbu Kang (Kanjiroba Himal, Nepal) 390 McHenry, Bruce 484 Normand, Bruce 409-11 McKinley, Mt. (AK) See Denali Norte, Pico del (C. Real, Bolivia) 301 McLean, Andrew 195-6 North Cascades Nat’l Park (WA) art. 34-9 McNeely, Ammon 166, 169, 177 North Twin (CAN) 6, art. 133-7, 133; 240 McNeill, Karen 200 Norway 340-2 McRae, Ian 186 Noshaq (Afghanistan) 344-6, 344, 5 Mejía, Guillermo 288-9, 290 Nott, Sue 382-3 Mejovsek, Matej 286-8 Nuevo León (Mexico) 273-4 Mercedario (Argentina) 303-4 Nuptse (Nepal) art. 14-23, 14, 15; 407-8 Mermoz, Aguja (Patagonia) 310, 311 Nuptse East art. 24-33, 24, 33 Meru (Gangotri, India) 378-9, 379 Nuptse East I (Nepal) 406-7 Meru Shark’s Fin (Gangotri, India) 376, 378-9 Nyanchen Thanglha “Nyainqentanglha” Range Messner, Reinhold 404 (Tibet) 427-31 Mexico 271-4 Middle Teton (WY) 181 O Millar, Alan 456-7 O’Neill, Tim 44-5, 261-2, 261 Millar, Jon art 60-73, 69, 73; 230 Obelisk (Sierra Nevada, CA) 172-3 Miller, Bruce 376, 378-9 October, P.(Pamir-Alai, Kyrgyzstan) 350 Miller, Rob 166 Odintsov, Alexander 411-2 Mills, Mt. (Sierra Nevada, CA) 170 Ogden, Jared 179-80, 298-300 Miura, Yuchiro 405 Ohnishi, Tamotsu 390, 393 Mixed Climbing, M Grades art. 116-27 Oiarzabal, Juanito 426 Miyar (Lahul, India) 371-3, 372 Ojos del Salado (Chile) 303 Miyar Valley (Lahul, India) 371-3 Olascoaga, Cerro (Chile) 302 Molenaar, Dee 464-5, 474-5 Old Hyndman Peak (ID) 183 Monk’s Cowl (South Africa) 338-9, 339 Omiya, Moromu 361 Mont Blanc Range (France) art. 128-32 Oodaap Is. (Greenland) 248-50 Montana 185 Oriana (Coast Mts., CAN) 228 Morawski, Piotr 423-5 Orlandi, Elio 150, 310-12 Moro, Simone 356 Orsi, Maurizio 368-9 Morocco 332 Orvin Fjella Region (Antarctica) 1; art. 74-81 Mosconi, William J obit. 472-4, 472 Osborne, Mt. (Kigluaik Mts., AK) 186 Mosedale, Tim 253 Osborny, P.(Borkolday Range, Kyrgyzstan) 348 I NDEX 493

Ostergaard, Claus 411 Parque Nacional Cascada de Baseachic (Mexico) 271-3 Overlord, Mt. (Canadian Rockies, CAN) 238 Parque Nacional Cumbres de Monterrey (Mexico) 273-4 Owen, John 452-3 Patagonia (Chile) 307-8, 318-24 Owens, Rob 245 Patagonia (Argentina) art. 138-55; 308-18 Patagonian Traverse (Chile) 318 P Payne, Roger 127, 418-20 P.43 (Nepal) See Kyashar Pecjak, Andrej 300-1 P.1,720m (Greenland) See Schartenspitze Pedeferri, Simone 308 P.1,760m (Greenland) 257-8 Pellet, Phillippe 239 P.1,850m (Baffin Is., CAN) 222-4 Pellissier, Ildi 193-4 P.2,602’ (Niut Range, CAN) 228 Pemba Dorje Sherpa 405 P.4,400 (Trango Glacier, Pakistan) 364 Pemthang Karpo Ri “Dome Blanc) (Nepal) 396 P.4,740m (Borkolday Range, Kyrgyzstan) 348 Pemthang Ri (Nepal) 396 P.5,060m (Borkolday Range, Kyrgyzstan) 348 Pereyra, Cerro (Patagonia, Argentina) 316-7 P.5,430m (Kashgar Range, China) 416-8 Peri Himal (Nepal) 394-5 P.5,471 “Mt. Letavet” (Kyrgyzstan) 348-9, 349 Perkins, Andy 374-5 P.5,975m (Kashgar Range, China) 416-8, 417 Peru 275-295, 435-6 P.6,000m (Spiti, India) 374 Pessi, Patrick art. 90-4 P.6,181m (Eastern Garhwal, India) 382 Pflueger, Jeff 212-14 P.6,181m (Hispar Muztagh, Pakistan) 360 Pharilapcha-Machermo Peak (Malahangur Himal, P.6,193m (Gangotri, India) 380 Nepal) 398-400, 399 P.6,195m (Dhaulagiri Himal, Nepal) 391 Phoenix (Vampire Spires, CAN) 224-5, 224 P.6,800m (Tibet) 425 Phori Peak (Sikkim, India) 385-6 P.6,920m (Hispar Muztagh, Pakistan) 361 Phunangma (Ladakh, India) 369-70 P.6,970’ (Kichatna Spires, AK) 206 Picket Range (WA) art. 34-9, 34, 35, 37; 158 P.7,600’ (Delta Range, AK) 188-9 Pierson, Billy 25, 33 P.7,900’ (St. Elias Rg., CAN) 219 Pigeon Feather Peak, East (Bugaboos, CAN) 235-6 P.8,184’ (St. Elias Rg., CAN) 219 Pinelli, Carlo A. 344-6 P.8,412’ (St. Elias Rg., CAN) 219 Plechac, Karel 394 P.8,435’ (St. Elias Rg., CAN) 219 PLI Wall (B.C., CAN) 229 P.8.861’ (St. Elias Rg., CAN) 219 Plomo, Nevado del (Argentina) 304 P.9,450” (St. Elias Rg., CAN) 219 Poincenot (Patagonia) 315-6 P.9,610’ (Hayes Range, AK) 187 Polaco, Pico (Argentina) 303-4 P.9,670’ (Tordrillo Mts., AK) 209-10 Pole Dance Tower (Adamant Group, CAN) 233 P.9,900’ (Wrangell Mts., AK) 214 Ponholzer, Toni 150 P.9,970’ (St. Elias Rg., CAN) 219 Popov, Danil 348-9 P.10,088’ (Wrangell Mts., AK) 214 Portilla, Ramon 325-6 P.10,142’ (St. Elias Rg., CAN) 219 Portrero Chico (Mexico) 273-4 P.10,478’ (Wrangell Mts., AK) 214 Pou, Iker 166 P.11,308” (ID) 184 Powell, Al 51, art. 52-5, 52-3; 285 P. 11520’ (Alaska Range, AK) 199-200 Preiss, Mike 157 P. 12,380’ (Alaska Range, AK) See Humble Peak Pretty, Mark 288 P. 13,790’ (Alaska Range, AK) See Andrews, Mt Prezelj, Marko 6, 32, art. 133-7, 134; 240 Paget, Mt. (South Georgia Is., Antarctica) art 68-72, Princess Mtn. (Coast Mts., CAN) 229, 231-232 72; 331 Prins Christian Sund (Greenland) 270 Paine Nat’l Park, Chile 320-3 Pritt, David 395 Paine, Central Tower (Patagonia) 321 Proctor, Tom 149-50 Paine, South Tower (Patagonia) 321-3, 322 Pucahirca Norte I (C. Blanca, Peru) 275-7, 275 Paisano Pinnacle (WA) 157 Pucahirca Norte II (C. Blanca, Peru) 275-6 Pakistan 354-66 Pugovkin, Anton 350-2 Palomani Grande (C. Apolobamba, Peru) 294-5 Pumari Chhish South (Pakistan) 360-1 Palomani Norte (C. Apolobamba, Peru) 295 Pumasillo Group (C. Vilcabamba, Peru) 292-3 Palomani Tranca Central (C. Apolobamba, Peru) 294-5 Purcell Mts. (B.C. CAN) 234-7 Pamiagdluk Is. (Greenland) 267 Puscanturpa Norte (C. Huayhuash, Peru) 288-9 Pamir Alai (Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, China) 350-3, 416-8 Putala Shan (Qionglai Range, China) 420-2, 421 Panch Chuli II (Kumaon, India) 383-4 Putrung (Damodar Himal, Nepal) 391 Pandey, Bikrum 388 Pyramid Peak (WA) 157 Panmah Muztagh (Pakistan) 361 Panta (C. Vilcabamba, Peru) 292 Q Parnell, Ian art. 106-115, 108, 114; 394 Qionglai Range (China) 420-2 494 T HE A MERICAN A LPINE J OURNAL, 2004

Quad 5 (South Georgia Is., Antarctica) 71 Saint Exupery, Aguja (Patagonia) 315-6, 315 Quebec (CAN) 246 San Rafael Swell (UT) 174-5 Queen Lilliana (Thor’s Land, Greenland) 255-7, 256 Sands Fjord (Jensenland, Greenland) 249, 251 Queen Maud Land (Antarctica) art. 74-81 Saribung “Seliben” (Damodar Himal, Nepal) 391-3 Quinteros, Jorge 302 Saser Kangri I (Ladakh, India) 370-1, 371 Quitaraju, Nevado (Peru) 277 Saser Kangri IV “Cloud Peak” (Ladakh, India) 370-1 Saser Kangri V (Ladakh, India) 370-1 R Satopanth (India) 367 Radziejowski, Jakub 310 Savege, Sue 257-8 Rafael, Aguja (Patagonia) 314-5, 316 Scalnya Kiska (Borkolday Rg., Kyrgyzstan) 348 Ragged Ridge (WA) 159 Scanu, Marcelo 277, 302-5, 324 Rakaposhi Range (Pakistan) 357-8 Schartenspitze “P.1,720m” (Greenland) 257, 257 Raksha Urai (Nepal) 389 Schmitt, Dennis 248-9, 251 Raksha Urai II (Nepal) 389 Schneider, Robert 461-2 Raksha Urai III (Nepal) 388-9 Schneider, Steve 166, 478-9 Raksha Urai Mts. (Nepal) 388-9 Schwartz, Susan E. B. 445-7 Rashapari P.358 Schweizerland (Greenland) 257-8 Ratong Valley (Sikkim, India) 385-6 Segers, Mt. (Antarctica) 327-8 Ravizza, Odoardo 150 Seliben (Damodar Himal, Nepal) See Saribung Ray, Ujjal 374 Selkirk Mts. (CAN) 233-4 Reardon, Blasé 185 Semersoq Is. (Greenland) 259-60 Redeker, Melvin art. 86-9, 88, 378 Semple, Scott 120 Reichen, Kobi 412-13 Senner, George R. obit. 474-5 Reichert, Joe 211-12 Sentinel Rg. (Antarctica) 325-6 Reid, Stephen 251-3 Seregin, Arkady 263-5 Reyher, John 323 Serl, Don 228-9, 232-3 Reynolds, Keith 175 Serra One (Coast Mts., CAN) 228 Riddell, Kevin 409-10 Serra Two (Coast Mts., CAN) 228 Rignys Bjerg (Greenland) 254 Seven Dwarves “P.6,330” (Tordrillo Mts., AK) 209 Rincon, Cerro 310 Shabalin, Pavel 352 Ritapata (C. Apolobamba, Peru) 294-5 Shafat Valley (Kashmir, India) 368-9 Ritapata Oeste (C. Apolobamba, Peru) 295 Shakhdarinsky Rg. (Tajikistan) 352-3 Roberts, Jon 266-7 Shicra (C. Chaupijanca, Peru) 284 Rocky Mountain Nat’l Park (CO) 178 Shinn, Mt. (Antarctica) 325 Rodebjerg (Greenland) 258 Shiro, Takashi 400-1 Roed, Erik 173-4 Shishapangma “Xixabangma”(Tibet) 408, 423-5, 424 Rogoz, Robert 157 Shlosar, Zach 208-9 Rooster Comb (Alaska Range, AK) 193-4 Shri Parvat (Central Garhwal, India) 381 Roraima Tepui (Venezuela/Guyana) 298-300, 299 Shroom, The (Weincke Is., Antarctica) 67, 66 Rosales, César 283 Shuksan, Mt. (WA) 157 Roux, Fredéric 411 Shutnik “Jester” (Borkolday Rg., Kyrgyzstan) 348 Rowat, Peter 229 Siberia (Russia) 343-4 Rowbotham, Graham 228 Siegrist, Stephan 309-10, 411 Royal Peak (Niut Range, CAN) 228 Sierra Nevada (CA) 169-74 Rozov, Valeri 263-5, 264 Sievers, Greg 479-80 Ruby Wall Cirque (Sierra Nevada, CA) 169-70 Sifrer, Gregor 346-7 Ruddy, Dana 238 Siguniang Nat’l Park (China) 420-2 Rundle, Mt. (Canadian Rockies, CAN) 239 Sikkim (India) 384-6 Ruoni, Mt. “Bairiga” (Kangri Garpo Rg., Tibet) Sik-Young, Park 378 431-2, 432 Simmons, Chris 328-9 Russell, Mt. (Sierra Nevada, CA) 172-3 Skarland, Mt. (Hayes Range, AK) 187 Russia 343-4 Skiing 190, 195-7, 415-6 Ruth Gorge (Alaska Range, AK) 200-05 Skoog, Gordy 156-7 Rwenzori “Ruwenzori” Mts. (Uganda) 332-5 Skorek, Grzegorz 359-60 Ryan, Richard 449-50 Slansky, Joe 175 Rykalov, Petr 352-3 Slawinski, Raphael 118-9, 122-3, 237-40, 243-5 Slesse, Mt. (Coast Mts., CAN) 230 S Smith, Jim 253-4 Sabir, Nazir 354-5 Smith, Zack 314 Sailing art. 60-73 Smoot, Brian 176-7 I NDEX 495

Snezny Chelovek (Borkolday Rg., Kyrgyzstan) 348 Thansunjiti (Damodar Himal, Nepal) 393 Snoqualmie, Mt. (WA) 164 Thaw, Kevin 314, 316-7, 337, 375-6 (Canadian Rockies, CAN) 239, 242-3 Thinières, Jérôme art. 90-4, 92 Soderstrom, Johnny 208-9, 211-12 Thomas, Adam 430-1 Solo, Cerro (Patagonia, Argentina) 318 Thomas, Louise 341-2 South Africa 338-9 Thorington, J. Monroe 12 South Georgia Is. (Antarctica) art 67-72; 331 Thor’s Land (Greenland) 255-7 South Shetland Is. (Antarctica) 329-31 Thunder Mtn. (Alaska Range, AK) 197 Spaghetti Glacier (Lahul, India) 371-3 Thunder P.(Lahul, India) 372-3 Spansar Brakk (Pakistan) 100, 365 Tibet 423-33 Spiti (India) 374 Tien Shan (Kyrgyzstan/China) 346-7 Spitzkoppe (Namibia) 337-8, 338 Tieng Kg (Sikkim, India) 385 Squamish (B.C., CAN) 229 Tierra del Fuego (Argentina) 324 St. Elias Rg. (AK/CAN) 214-9 Tigaraha (Kigluaik Mts., AK) 186 Staley, Rick 219-20 Tila ka Lahar (Lahul, India) 374 Stanhardt, Cerro (Patagonia) 308-9 Tobita, Kazuo 358-9 Stanley, Mt. “Margherita P.” (Uganda) 332-5, 332 Tocllaraju (C. Blanca, Peru) 283-4 Staunning Alps (Greenland) 251-2 Tombu “CB 48” (Lahul, India) 373-4 Steck, Ueli 309, 411 Tomos, P.(Borkolday Rg., Kyrgyzstan) 348 Stefansky, Ivan 372 Tordrillo Mts. (Alaska Range, AK) 208-11 Steidle, Christian 324 Torre, Cerro (Argentina) art. 138-55, 140-3, 308 Steiger, Franz 150 Town, John 429-30 Stephen, Mt. (Canadian Rockies, CAN) 245 Trango Tower “Nameless” (Pakistan) 362-4 Stevens, Jonathan 282-3 Trefil, Pavel 390-1 Stevenson, David 440-69 Treppte, Reiner 380-1 Stiletto Needle (Coast Mts., CAN) 228 Tresch, Ivan 312-4, 315-6 Stjernebannertinde (Jensenland, Greenland) 249 Triangle Peak (Jugal Himal, Nepal) 395-6, 395 Stoppini, Paolo 285-6 Tukuche (Nepal) 391 Strassman, Mike 170-1 Tupilak Region (Greenland) 257-8 Straub, Jürgen 304 Turner, Alasdair 164 Strong, Roger 164 Turner, Mike “Twid” 207-8, 298 Sung-woo, Kang 401-2 Turtlehead “P.9,100” (Coast Mts., CAN) 229 Surprise Peak “P.10,030” (Tordrillo Mts., AK) 210, 210 Tutse (Mahalangur Himal, Nepal) 411 Suviga, Vladimir 27, 33, 407 Twight, Mark 32, 123-4 Svatakkerne (Semersoq Is., Greenland) 260 Tyndall, Mt. (Sierra Nevada, CA) 173-4 Swan’s Tail “Lyn Peak” (Coast Mts., CAN) 228 Synnott, Mark 298-300, 299, 375-6 U Szczotka, Marcin 310 Uganda 332-5 Ulamertorssuaq (Greenland) 262 T Ullu-Tau (Caucasus, Russia) 343 Tabin, Geoff 438, 467 Ulrich, Thomas 318 Taghia Gorge (Atlas Mts., Morocco) 332 Ulta, Nevado (C. Blanca, Peru) 282-3 Tajikistan 352-3 Ultima Thule (Greenland) 249 Tamayo, Jose Carlos 260 Ulvetanna (Antarctica) 76-7, 74 Tan Shan (Qionglai Range, China) 420-2, 421 United States 156-185 Tanabe, Osamu 408-9 Unnamed Spire (Cirque of the Unclimbables, Tantalus Rg. (B.C., CAN) 230 CAN) 226 Tapado, Nevado del(Chile) 302 Utah 174-8 Taragiri (Lahul, India) 374 Tasermiut Fjord (Greenland) art. 40-7; 260-6 V Tashi Kang I (Dhaulagiri Himal, Nepal) 391 Václav –atava 262 Tatewari (Mexico) 274 Vagakallen (Norway) 340-2, 341-2 Taylor, Dylan 380 Vampire Spires (CAN) 224-6 Tellot Spire #1 (Coast Mts., CAN) 228 Van Berkel, Mike art. 86-9, 378 Temple, Mt. (Canadian Rockies, CAN) 240, 243-5 Van de Gevel, Cas art. 86-9, 87, 89; 378 Teng Kang Poche (Nepal) 396-8, 397 Vancouver, Mt. (St. Elias Mts., AK/CAN) 216-7, Terma Wall (Sikkim, India) 384-5, 386 216, 220 Thackray, John 444-5 Varco, John art. 106-115, 109-10; 382-3, 394 Thalay Sagar (Gangotri, India) arts. 82-5, 86-9, 90-4, Varela, Federico Aguero 302 82, 84, 86; 367, 377-8 Vasiliki Ridge (WA) 157 496 T HE A MERICAN A LPINE J OURNAL, 2004

Venezuela 296-8 Viesturs, Ed 355-7 X Vilhauer, Jared 208-9 Xinjiang (China) 415-6 Vinson, Mt. (Antarctica) 325-6, 326 Virgo, P.(Borkolday Rg., Kyrgyzstan) 348 Y Volken, Martin 160-3 Yamnuska, Mt. (Canadian Rockies, CAN) 238 Von Götz, Alexander 302 Yanashinga (C. Central, Peru) 289-90, 290 Yanina (Argentina) 304 W Yansa Tsenji (Langtang Himal, Nepal) 395 Waddington Rg. (Coast Mts., CAN) 228-9 Yarlung Ri (Tibet) 428 Walker, Mt. (Danco Is., Antarctica) 66 Yearsley, Simon 197-9, 198 Wall Range (Weincke Is., Antarctica) 64-5 Yerupaja (C. Huayhuash, Peru) 48, 286-8, 286-7 Wallace, Wayne art. 34-9, 39; 158, 159-60 Yosemite (CA) 165-69 Wallis, Roger 220-1 Yutmaru Sar (Pakistan) 361 Ware, Larry 450-52 Washington art. 34-9; 156-64 Z Waterman, Jonathan 454-6 Zambetti, Nicolas 362-3 Watkins, Abby 124-5 Zangrill, Fabrizio 25, 33 Webster, Ed 440-2, 462-3 Zimmerman, Dr. Guenter 209-10 Weincke Is. (Antarctica) 64-5, 67 Zion Nat’l Park (UT) 176-8 Weiner, Jay 439 Weqqe Suruchi, Nevado (C. Vilcabamba, Peru) 292 Westman, Mark 196 Wharton, Josh 178, 316 Whedon, John 195-6 Wheelock, Philippe 384-5 White Pagoda “Chorten Garpo or Bat a Shan” (Tibet) 428, 428 Whitehouse, Tony 269-70 Whitelaw, David 162 Wide Awake Tower (Bugaboos, CAN) 236-7, 237 Willett, Guy 190-1 Wilson, Jay 143, 153 Windtower (Canadian Rockies, CAN) 238 Wirtz, Heidi 314 Witch Doctor Wall (WA) 162 Woodall, Ian 403 Wrangell Mts. (AK) 214 Wright, Bill 165-6 Wright, Cedar 172-3, 316-8, 335-7 Wyoming 181-3 Wyvill, Brian 143, 149, 154

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