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PAKISTAN / Karakorum Laila Peak 6.096 M „Ein Steiler Zahn Im Karakorum“

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PAKISTAN / Karakorum Laila Peak 6.096 M „Ein Steiler Zahn Im Karakorum“ Detailausschreibung AMICAL alpin 2018 II. Laila Peak Expedition/Anspruchsvolle 6.000er-Expedition Aktualisiert am 06.11.2017 PAKISTAN / Karakorum Laila Peak 6.096 m „Ein steiler Zahn im Karakorum“ Wow – was ein steiler Zahn! …. bei vielen die erste Reaktion, wenn Sie den Laila Peak zum ersten Mal sehen. Zumeist von Shusbang, einer kleinen grünen Insel unterhalb des Gondogoro La bei der Rückkehr aus dem Baltoro-Gebiet. Dieser Anblick prägt sich ein – einer der schönsten Berge weltweit. Erstbestiegen wurde der Laila Peak durch eine kleine Gruppe von Engländern um Simon Yates in den 80er- Jahren. Einer der beiden Helden aus „Sturz ins Leere“ war über die steile NO-Wand auf- und über die NW-Flanke abgestiegen. Im Jahr 2005 fuhren hier Skandinavier im 45°- 50°- Gelände auf Skiern zu Tal, ohne den Gipfel ganz erreicht zu haben. Diese sehr gleichmäßige, nach oben etwas steiler werdende Flanke, die dem Berg auch sein haltloses Äußeres gibt, wird das Ziel Ihrer Expedition ins obere Hushe- Valley sein. Geleitet wird diese Expedition von Robert Hochreiter, sehr erfahrender und staatlich geprüfter Berg- und Skiführer aus dem AMICAL alpin Team. TERMIN 18224 MI 13.06.2018 bis SO 08.07.2018 EXPEDITIONSDAUER 26 Tage PREIS ab 8 Teilnehmer 7.120,00 Euro pro Person ab 10 Teilnehmer 6.521,00 Euro pro Person EINZELZIMMERZUSCHLAG 330,00 Euro pro Person 1 AMICAL alpin - Dominik Müller - Walserstraße 5 - 87561 Oberstdorf – GERMANY - Tel.: 0049 (0)8322 9874788 - [email protected] Detailausschreibung AMICAL alpin 2018 II. Laila Peak Expedition/Anspruchsvolle 6.000er-Expedition Aktualisiert am 06.11.2017 PAKISTAN AUF EINEN BLICK Stand: August 2017 Staatsoberhaupt Ländername Mamnoon Hussain seit 09.09.2013 Islamische Republik Pakistan, Islami Dschumhuriat Pakistan (Urdu) Regierungschef Shahid Khaqan Abbasi (PML-N) - seit Klima 01.08.2017 Im Süden tropisch-feuchtes Seeklima; im Norden Kontinentalklima mit kühlem Außenminister Winter und heißem Sommer; Khawaja Asif (seit 04.08.2017) Monsunzeit im Juli und August Lage Parlament Pakistan grenzt im Westen an Iran und Das Parlament besteht aus zwei Kammern, Afghanistan, im Norden an China, im dem Senat und der Nationalversammlung. Osten an Indien, im Süden an das Parteien Arabische Meer. Pakistan Muslim League, Pakistan Peoples Größe Party, Pakistan Tehreek-e-Insaf, Muttahida rd. 800.000 km2 Quami Movement, Jamaat-e-Ulema-e- Islamyia, Jamaat-e-Islami Hauptstadt Islamabad, letzte Volkszählung 1998: Gewerkschaften 799.000 Einwohner, mittlerweile über 2 Vielzahl von Betriebsgewerkschaften mit Mio Einwohner (Nachbarstadt Rawalpindi ca. 60 Zusammenschlüssen. ca. 3 Mio.) Mitgliedschaft in internationalen Bevölkerung Organisationen Zwischen 175 und 195 Mio., nur grobe Vereinte Nationen und Schätzungen möglich Unterorganisationen, Islamische Landessprachen Konferenz-Organisation (OIC), SAARC, Nationalsprache: Urdu; offizielle Sprache: ECO auch Englisch; wichtigste Wichtigste Medien Regionalsprachen: Punjabi, Sindhi, Pashtu, Rundfunk und Fernsehen. Drei bedeutende Seraiki englischsprachige Tageszeitungen (Dawn; Religionen The News; The Nation); Islam ist Staatsreligion (Mehrzahl Sunniten, Bruttoinlandsprodukt rd. 15 % Schiiten. Ahmadis, sind eine vom 217,7 Mrd. USD (2015) Islam ausgegrenzte muslimische Sekte mit ca. 1 Mio. Mitgliedern. Pro-Kopf- Einkommen 1.440 USD (2015) Nationaltag 1. Pakistantag, 23. März Nationaltag, 14. Währung August (Staatsgründung 1947) 1 pakistanische Rupie (PKR) = 100 Paise 1 EURO = 124,854 PRp Regierungsform 1 US $ = 104,645 PRp Parlamentarische Demokratie mit 1 CHF = 109,156 PRp Zweikammersystem Stand:August2017 2 AMICAL alpin - Dominik Müller - Walserstraße 5 - 87561 Oberstdorf – GERMANY - Tel.: 0049 (0)8322 9874788 - [email protected] Detailausschreibung AMICAL alpin 2018 II. Laila Peak Expedition/Anspruchsvolle 6.000er-Expedition Aktualisiert am 06.11.2017 DAS KARAKORUM anspruchsvollsten Zielen der Weltelite der Bergsteiger. Und noch immer locken "Der Karakorum ist anders als der zahlreiche jungfräuliche Gipfel zur Himalaya - höher, schroffer, wilder und Erstbesteigung! unzugänglicher. Er ist das höchste Gebirge Das Wort "Karakorum" stammt aus dem auf unserem Planeten. Nirgendwo sonst Türkischen und wurde vermutlich zuerst für gibt es eine solche Anhäufung von Bergen die Benennung des 5.575 m hohen und Gebirgsketten von sechs-, sieben- und Karakorum-Passes verwendet, über den achttausend Metern Höhe..." So beginnt von Alters her ein Karawanenweg von der excellente Bergfotograf Jürgen Winkler Turkestan nach Ladakh führt. Erst viel den Abschnitt über das Karakorum- später erhielt die ganze Gebirgsgruppe Gebirge in seinem wunderschönen Ihren Namen. Bildband "Himalaya" GEOGRAPHIE Und der große britische Forschungsreisende Francis Younghusband Das der Karakorum ein eigenständiges äußerte bereits 1887 über die Benennung Gebirge ist, daran gibt es heutzutage des Gebirges: "Karakorum bedeutet eigentlich keinen Zweifel mehr. Noch um 'schwarzer Kies', und kein die Jahrhundertwende wurde der unangebrachterer Name ist vorstellbar für Karakorum jedoch fälschlicherweise oft als eine Kette der höchsten verschneiten Gipfel Teil des Hindukusch betrachtet, während der Erde." geographisch weniger bewanderte Diese beiden Statements aus berufenem Zeitgenossen noch heute gern großzügig Munde bringen es so ziemlich genau auf vom Himalaya sprechen, wenn sie den Punkt: obwohl der höchste Berg eigentlich den Karakorum meinen. unseres Planeten ebenso wie neun weitere Gegliedert ist der Karakorum in der insgesamt vierzehn 8.000er der Erde verschiedene Gebirgsgruppen, die - wie zum benachbarten Himalaya zählt, ist der zum Beispiel Baltoro Muztagh, Batura Karakorum das eigentlich höchste Gebirge Muztagh, Hispar Muztagh oder Saser der Erde. Muztagh - mit dem Wort ‘Muztagh‘ bezeichnet werden, das ebenfalls aus dem Denn hier findet sich etwa die Hälfte der Türkischen stammt. Die Bedeutung hundert höchsten Erhebungen unseres ‘Eisgebirge‘ trifft in diesem Fall auch besser Planeten auf engstem Raum! Während sich zu, als der ‘schwarze Kies‘, mit dem das der Himalaya-Hauptkamm zwischen den ganze Gebirge bezeichnet wird. einzelnen Gebirgsgruppen über weite Strecken hinweg wesentlich niedriger und Der Karakorum ist das am stärksten „zahmer“ gestaltet, stehen die kühnen vergletscherte Hochgebirge der Erde. Der Gipfel des Karakorum dicht an dicht in Grad der Vergletscherung ist etwa dreimal ununterbrochener Folge beieinander. Und so hoch wie im Himalaya, und auch die das soweit das Auge reicht, denn die Dimensionen der Gletscher sind um Ausdehnung des Karakorum ist bei weitem Größenordnungen anders! Lässt man die nicht gering, wie der Vergleich mit dem arktischen Regionen unberücksichtigt, so räumlich größeren Himalaya suggerieren fließen hier die längsten Gletscher der mag. Über 130 Siebentausender und Erde. Mit 78 km Länge ist der ungezählte Bergspitzen über 6.000m Höhe Siachengletscher dabei der Spitzenreiter. gehören seit Jahrzehnten zu den Die längste ununterbrochen vergletscherte 3 AMICAL alpin - Dominik Müller - Walserstraße 5 - 87561 Oberstdorf – GERMANY - Tel.: 0049 (0)8322 9874788 - [email protected] Detailausschreibung AMICAL alpin 2018 II. Laila Peak Expedition/Anspruchsvolle 6.000er-Expedition Aktualisiert am 06.11.2017 Strecke misst jedoch gar 120 km und wird unterschiedlichen Höhen angegeben: diese von Biafo- und Hispar-Gletscher gebildet, variieren zwischen 6.614 m und 6.096 m. die durch den ebenfalls voll vergletscherten Am wahrscheinlichsten ist die letztere Hispar-Pass miteinander verbunden sind. Höhe, die auch in jüngsten Karten des Weitere große Gletscher sind der Baltoro- Karakorum (Leomann Maps u. eine neue Gletscher (58 km), der Batura-Gletscher Japanische Karte) verwendet werden. Die (ebenfalls 58 km) sowie der Chogo- englischen Erstbesteiger schätzen die Höhe Lungma-Gletscher (45 km). Die beiden des Berges auf ca. 6.300 m. letztgenannten fließen aus den eisigen Höhen der Hochgebirgsregionen bis Zwei weitere Gipfel des nördlichen hinunter in die Siedlungsgebiete, wo sie Himalaya bzw. südlichen Karakorum erst in unmittelbarer Nähe der werden auch noch mit dem gleichen umliegenden Felder bzw. des Karakorum Namen bezeichnet: der zweite Laila Peak Highway enden. (5.971 m) befindet sich nahe der Rupalflanke des Nanga Parbat, der dritte Das Herzstück des Karakorumgebirges Laila Peak (6.985m) liegt am bildet die mächtige Baltoro-Gruppe, zu der Chogurungma Gletscher im Haramosh Tal auch die vier Karakorum-8000er gehören: und wurde erstmals von Bergsteigern des K2 (8.611m, ursprünglicher Name: Hekiryou Alpine Club of Japan 1979 Chogori) bestiegen. Broad Peak (8.047m, auch Falchan Kangri) Der Laila Peak hat seinen Namen aus der Gasherbrum I (8.068m, auch Hidden persischen Erzählung einer unglücklichen Peak) Liebe aus dem 7. Jahrhundert „Laila und Gasherbrum II (8.035m) Majoon“. Darüber hinaus befinden sich dort noch BESTEIGUNGSCHRONIK zahlreiche weitere berühmte Eisriesen, wie z.B. Chogolisa, Muztagh Tower und Diese symetrische Eispyramide mit einem Masherbrum, aber auch die Granittürme Riesengranitklotz als Unterbau hat eine der Trango-Gruppe, Uli Biaho Tower, relativ kurze Besteigungsgeschichte. Kathedrale und unzählige weitere kühne Allerdings hängt das auch sicher auch Spitzen. damit zusammen, dass nicht alle Besteigungen bekannt wurden. LAILA PEAK ERSTE BESTEIGUNG (6.096 M) 1984 Durch ein Britisches Team um Simon GEOGRAFISCHE LAGE Yates, Mark Miller und Sean Smith. In ihren jungen Jahren lieferten diese drei Hoher Karakorum / Baltoro Mustagh Wilden eine spektakuläre Alpinstil- 35°35′28.4″N
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