Gasherbrum II, Southwest Face

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

AAC Publications Gasherbrum II, Southwest Face Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh On July 16, Felix Berg (German) and Adam Bielecki (Poland) climbed a partial new route on Gasherbrum II (8,034m). The pair followed the normal route up the southwest ridge to about7,300m, the point where it begins to veer right and traverse below the southeast face of the mountain. Here they moved left along a traverse leading toward the Gasherbrum III–II col. Above this lies the southwest face. The right-hand ridge (southwest spur) was climbed directly to the summitin 1995 by Carlos Carsolio (Mexico), and the left-hand ridge (west spur) was possibly climbed in 1990 by Georg Rudiger Lang, a German climber who was part of a 12-member international expedition. (It is not clear whether Lang climbed this line or the northwest face, a mixed snow and rock wall first ascended in 1975 by Polish climbers.) Berg and Bielecki climbed the middle of the southwest face, finishing toward the west spur and encountering delicate climbing over fragile rock slabs. The two were roped but unable to find much in the way of meaningful belays. This was the only ascent of Gasherbrum II during the season, and no fixed ropes had beenplaced on the upper mountain. The pair crossed over the summit and descended the normal route. – Lindsay Griffin, with information from Felix Berg, Germany Images Article Details Author Lindsay Griffin Publication AAJ Volume 61 Issue 93 Page 287 Copyright Date 2019 Article Type Climbs and expeditions.

Copy Link

Recommended publications

PAKISTAN / Karakorum Laila Peak 6.096 M „Ein Steiler Zahn Im Karakorum“
Detailausschreibung AMICAL alpin 2018 II. Laila Peak Expedition/Anspruchsvolle 6.000er-Expedition Aktualisiert am 06.11.2017 PAKISTAN / Karakorum Laila Peak 6.096 m „Ein steiler Zahn im Karakorum“ Wow – was ein steiler Zahn! …. bei vielen die erste Reaktion, wenn Sie den Laila Peak zum ersten Mal sehen. Zumeist von Shusbang, einer kleinen grünen Insel unterhalb des Gondogoro La bei der Rückkehr aus dem Baltoro-Gebiet. Dieser Anblick prägt sich ein – einer der schönsten Berge weltweit. Erstbestiegen wurde der Laila Peak durch eine kleine Gruppe von Engländern um Simon Yates in den 80er- Jahren. Einer der beiden Helden aus „Sturz ins Leere“ war über die steile NO-Wand auf- und über die NW-Flanke abgestiegen. Im Jahr 2005 fuhren hier Skandinavier im 45°- 50°- Gelände auf Skiern zu Tal, ohne den Gipfel ganz erreicht zu haben. Diese sehr gleichmäßige, nach oben etwas steiler werdende Flanke, die dem Berg auch sein haltloses Äußeres gibt, wird das Ziel Ihrer Expedition ins obere Hushe- Valley sein. Geleitet wird diese Expedition von Robert Hochreiter, sehr erfahrender und staatlich geprüfter Berg- und Skiführer aus dem AMICAL alpin Team. TERMIN 18224 MI 13.06.2018 bis SO 08.07.2018 EXPEDITIONSDAUER 26 Tage PREIS ab 8 Teilnehmer 7.120,00 Euro pro Person ab 10 Teilnehmer 6.521,00 Euro pro Person EINZELZIMMERZUSCHLAG 330,00 Euro pro Person 1 AMICAL alpin - Dominik Müller - Walserstraße 5 - 87561 Oberstdorf – GERMANY - Tel.: 0049 (0)8322 9874788 - [email protected] Detailausschreibung AMICAL alpin 2018 II. Laila Peak Expedition/Anspruchsvolle
[Show full text]
Expeditions & Treks 2008/2009
V4362_JG_Exped Cover_AW 1/5/08 15:44 Page 1 Jagged Globe NEW! Expeditions & Treks www.jagged-globe.co.uk Our new website contains detailed trip itineraries 2008 for the expeditions and treks contained in this brochure, photo galleries and recent trip reports. / 2009 You can also book securely online and find out about new trips and offers by subscribing to our email newsletter. Jagged Globe The Foundry Studios, 45 Mowbray Street, Sheffield S3 8EN United Kingdom Expeditions Tel: 0845 345 8848 Email: [email protected] Web: www.jagged-globe.co.uk & Treks Cover printed on Take 2 Front Cover: Offset 100% recycled fibre Mingma Temba Sherpa. sourced only from post Photo: Simon Lowe. 2008/2009 consumer waste. Inner Design by: pages printed on Take 2 www.vividcreative.com Silk 75% recycled fibre. © 2007 V4362 V4362_JG_Exped_Bro_Price_Alt 1/5/08 15:10 Page 2 Ama Dablam Welcome to ‘The Matterhorn of the Himalayas.’ Jagged Globe Ama Dablam dominates the Khumbu Valley. Whether you are trekking to Everest Base Camp, or approaching the mountain to attempt its summit, you cannot help but be astounded by its striking profile. Here members of our 2006 expedition climb the airy south Expeditions & Treks west ridge towards Camp 2. See page 28. Photo: Tom Briggs. The trips The Mountains of Asia 22 Ama Dablam: A Brief History 28 Photo: Simon Lowe Porter Aid Post Update 23 Annapurna Circuit Trek 30 Teahouses of Nepal 23 Annapurna Sanctuary Trek 30 The Seven Summits 12 Everest Base Camp Trek 24 Lhakpa Ri & The North Col 31 The Seven Summits Challenge 13
[Show full text]
Hainabrakk East Tower, South Southeast Face
358 T H E A MERIC A N A LPINE J OURNA L , 2006 View from low in the Trango approach gully: Trango Tower (T; often erroneously called Nameless Tower), Little Trango (LT), and the Southwest Summit of Great Trango (GT). The line shows Cˇmárik and Kopold’s harrowing descent of the northwest face, with (a) marking the gully that avalanched and swept Kopold 150m. The NW face is home to the 1999 American, Russian, and German routes, while the 2003 Ukrainian attempt climbs the promi- nent detached pillar just left of the NW face, continuing high up the left skyline of GT’s summit tower. The Azeem Ridge (2004) roughly follows the right-hand skyline, and the Cˇmárik- Kopold route (Assalam Alaikum) ascends farther right, out-of-view. Vlado Linek Great Trango, southwest face to south face (Assalam Alaikum), not to summit; Hainabrakk East Tower, south southeast face (Mystical Denmo); Shipton Spire, east face to northeast ridge, to with- in 80m of summit (Prisoners of the Shipton); and Ship of Fools, attempt. A joint Czech-Slovak expedition visited the Baltoro from July 26 to August 31. The team comprised eight climbers from Slovakia: Gabo Čmárik, Andrej Kolárik, Igor Koller, Jozef Kopold, Pavol Pekarčík, Juraj Poděbraský, Erik Rabatin, and I. There were four climbers from the Czech Republic: Milan Benian, Martin Klonfar, Petr Piechowicz, and Miroslav Turek. Čmárik, Kopold, Koller, and I had climbed in this region during 2004 and had unfinished projects. In particular Čmárik and Kopold wanted to climb a new line in alpine-style on the south side of Great Trango (6,286m), right of the 2004 American route, Azeem Ridge.
[Show full text]
Pakistan I 199
Climbs & Expeditions: Pakistan I 199 PAKISTAN during the winter of 2014-’15, Tomas Mackiewicz (Poland) and Elizabeth Revol (France) reported reaching 7,800m (likely the same point as the Austrians). Mackiewicz and Revol tried again in 2015-’16, making to 7,500m with Arsalan Ahmed Ansari (Pakistan) From the small col at 7,760m, it would be possible to reach the 8,126m main summit either by following the original 1953 route or by traversing to the upper Kinshofer Route. – LINDSAY GRIFFIN, FROM INFORMATION PROVIDED BY MARKUS GSCHWENDT, AUSTRIA HINDU KUSH TIRICH MIR, NORTHWEST FACE, RARE ASCENT AND MINOR VARIATION French climbers Jérôme Chazelas and Thomas Quillet reported reaching the summit of Tirich Mir (7,708m), the highest peak in the Hindu Kush, in July, via the normal route (1967 Czechoslovak Route) up the northwest face. The crux of this route is climbing a couloir above [Above] Ganalo Peak at sunset from high on the northwest face of Nanga Parbat, during a 2008 attempt on the normal site of Camp 3 (ca 6,700m). Here, rather than climb the couloir direct, the two the northwest face. Markus Gschwendt moved out left onto snow slopes and climbed more mixed ground to the ridge above. They placed a high camp above the couloir at 7,200m and then took six hours to reach the summit. HIMALAYA More significant is that Tirich Mir, accessed through Chitral and lying very close to the Afghan border, has seen very little recent activity because of the perceived heightened terrorist threat in this area. This appears to be the first time the mountain has been summited since the NANGA PARBAT, NORTHWEST FACE VIA DIAMA GLACIER, PREVIOUSLY summer of 2001.
[Show full text]
DEATH ZONE FREERIDE About the Project
DEATH ZONE FREERIDE About the project We are 3 of Snow Leopards, who commit the hardest anoxic high altitude ascents and perform freeride from the tops of the highest mountains on Earth (8000+). We do professional one of a kind filming on the utmost altitude. THE TRICKIEST MOUNTAINS ON EARTH NO BOTTLED OXYGEN CHALLENGES TO HUMAN AND NATURE NO EXTERIOR SUPPORT 8000ERS FREERIDE FROM THE TOPS MOVIES ALONE WITH NATURE FREERIDE DESCENTS 5 3 SNOW LEOS Why the project is so unique? PROFESSIONAL FILMING IN THE HARDEST CONDITIONS ❖ Higher than 8000+ m ❖ Under challenging efforts ❖ Without bottled oxygen & exterior support ❖ Severe weather conditions OUTDOOR PROJECT-OF-THE-YEAR “CRYSTAL PEAK 2017” AWARD “Death zone freeride” project got the “Crystal Peak 2017” award in “Outdoor project-of-the-year” nomination. It is comparable with “Oscar” award for Russian outdoor sphere. Team ANTON VITALY CARLALBERTO PUGOVKIN LAZO CIMENTI Snow Leopard. Snow Leopard. Leader The first Italian Snow Leopard. MC in mountaineering. Manaslu of “Mountain territory” club. Specializes in a ski mountaineering. freeride 8163m. High altitude Ski-mountaineer. Participant cameraman. of more than 20 high altitude expeditions. Mountains of the project Manaslu Annapurna Nanga–Parbat Everest K2 8163m 8091m 8125m 8848m 8611m The highest mountains on Earth ❖ 8027 m Shishapangma ❖ 8167 m Dhaulagiri I ❖ 8035 m Gasherbrum II (K4) ❖ 8201 m Cho Oyu ❖ 8051 m Broad Peak (K3) ❖ 8485 m Makalu ❖ 8080 m Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak, K5) ❖ 8516 m Lhotse ❖ 8091 m Annapurna ❖ 8586 m Kangchenjunga ❖ 8126 m Nanga–Parbat ❖ 8614 m Chogo Ri (K2) ❖ 8156 m Manaslu ❖ 8848 m Chomolungma (Everest) Mountains that we climbed on MANASLU September 2017 The first and unique freeride descent from the altitude 8000+ meters among Russian sportsmen.
[Show full text]
Pakistan 1995
LINDSAY GRIFFIN & DAVID HAMILTON Pakistan 1995 Thanks are due to Xavier Eguskitza, Tafeh Mohammad andAsem Mustafa Awan for their help in providing information. ast summer in the Karakoram was one of generally unsettled weather L conditions. Intermittent bad weather was experienced from early June and a marked deterioration occurred from mid-August. The remnants of heavy snow cover from a late spring fall hampered early expeditions, while those arriving later experienced almost continuous precipitation. In spite of these difficulties there was an unusually high success rate on both the 8000m and lesser peaks. Pakistan Government statistics show that 59 expe ditions from 16 countries received permits to attempt peaks above 6000m. Of the 29 expeditions to 8000m peaks 17 were successful. On the lower peaks II of the 29 expeditions succeeded. There were 14 fatalities (9 on 8000m peaks) among the 384 foreign climbers; a Pakistani cook and porter also died in separate incidents. The action of the Pakistan Government in limiting the number of per mits issued for each of the 8000m peaks to six per season has led to the practice of several unconnected expeditions 'sharing' a permit, an un fortunate development which may lead to complicated disputes with the Pakistani authorities in the future. Despite the growing commercialisation of high-altitude climbing, there were only four overtly commercial teams on the 8000m peaks (three on Broad Peak and one on Gasherbrum II). However, it is clear that many places on 'non-commercial' expeditions were filled by experienced climbers able to supply substantial funds from their own, or sponsors', resources.
[Show full text]
K2 Base Camp and Gondogoro La Trek
K2 And Gondogoro La Trek, Pakistan This is a trekking holiday to K2 and Concordia in the Karakoram Mountains of Pakistan followed by crossing the Gondogoro La to Hushe Valley to complete a superb mountaineering journey. Group departures See trip’s date & cost section Holiday overview Style Trek Accommodation Hotels, Camping Grade Strenuous Duration 23 days from Islamabad to Islamabad Trekking / Walking days On Trek: 15 days Min/Max group size 1 / 8. Guaranteed to run Meeting point Joining in Islamabad, Pakistan Max altitude 5,600m, Gondogoro Pass Private Departures & Tailor Made itineraries available Departures Group departures 2021 Dates: 20 Jun - 12 Jul 27 Jun - 19 Jul 01 Jul - 23 Jul 04 Jul - 26 Jul 11 Jul - 02 Aug 18 Jul - 09 Aug 25 Jul - 16 Aug 01 Aug - 23 Aug 08 Aug - 30 Aug 15 Aug - 06 Sep 22 Aug - 13 Sep 29 Aug - 20 Sep Will these trips run? All our k2 and Gondogoro la treks are guaranteed to run as schedule. Unlike some other companies, our trips will take place with a minimum of 1 person and maximum of 8. Best time to do this Trek Pakistan is blessed with four season weather, spring, summer, autumn and winter. This tour itinerary is involved visiting places where winter is quite harsh yet spring, summer and autumns are very pleasant. We recommend to do this Trek between June and September. Group Prices & discounts We have great range of Couple, Family and Group discounts available, contact us before booking. K2 and Gondogoro trek prices are for the itinerary starting from Islamabad to Skardu K2 - Gondogoro Pass - Hushe Valley and back to Islamabad.
[Show full text]
A Case Study of Gilgit-Baltistan
The Role of Geography in Human Security: A Case Study of Gilgit-Baltistan PhD Thesis Submitted by Ehsan Mehmood Khan, PhD Scholar Regn. No. NDU-PCS/PhD-13/F-017 Supervisor Dr Muhammad Khan Department of Peace and Conflict Studies (PCS) Faculties of Contemporary Studies (FCS) National Defence University (NDU) Islamabad 2017 ii The Role of Geography in Human Security: A Case Study of Gilgit-Baltistan PhD Thesis Submitted by Ehsan Mehmood Khan, PhD Scholar Regn. No. NDU-PCS/PhD-13/F-017 Supervisor Dr Muhammad Khan This Dissertation is submitted to National Defence University, Islamabad in fulfilment for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Peace and Conflict Studies Department of Peace and Conflict Studies (PCS) Faculties of Contemporary Studies (FCS) National Defence University (NDU) Islamabad 2017 iii Thesis submitted in fulfilment of the requirement for Doctor of Philosophy in Peace and Conflict Studies (PCS) Peace and Conflict Studies (PCS) Department NATIONAL DEFENCE UNIVERSITY Islamabad- Pakistan 2017 iv CERTIFICATE OF COMPLETION It is certified that the dissertation titled “The Role of Geography in Human Security: A Case Study of Gilgit-Baltistan” written by Ehsan Mehmood Khan is based on original research and may be accepted towards the fulfilment of PhD Degree in Peace and Conflict Studies (PCS). ____________________ (Supervisor) ____________________ (External Examiner) Countersigned By ______________________ ____________________ (Controller of Examinations) (Head of the Department) v AUTHOR’S DECLARATION I hereby declare that this thesis titled “The Role of Geography in Human Security: A Case Study of Gilgit-Baltistan” is based on my own research work. Sources of information have been acknowledged and a reference list has been appended.
[Show full text]
Brief Description of the Northern Areas
he designation of geographical entities in this book, and the presentation of the material, do T not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of IUCN concerning the legal status of any country, territory, or area, or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily reflect those of IUCN. Published by: IUCN Pakistan. Copyright: ©2003 Government of Pakistan, Northern Areas Administration and IUCN–The World Conservation Union. Reproduction of this publication for educational and other non-commercial purposes is authorised without prior permission from the copyright holders, providing the source is fully acknowledged. Reproduction of the publication for resale or for other commercial purposes is prohibited without prior written permission from the copyright holders. Citation: Government of Pakistan and IUCN, 2003. Northern Areas State of Environment and Development. IUCN Pakistan, Karachi. xlvii+301 pp. Compiled by: Scott Perkin Resource person: Hamid Sarfraz ISBN: 969-8141-60-X Cover & layout design: Creative Unit (Pvt.) Ltd. Cover photographs: Gilgit Colour Lab, Hamid Sarfraz, Khushal Habibi, Serendip and WWF-Pakistan. Printed by: Yaqeen Art Press Available from: IUCN–The World Conservation Union 1 Bath Island Road, Karachi Tel.: 92 21 - 5861540/41/42 Fax: 92 21 - 5861448, 5835760 Website: www.northernareas.gov.pk/nassd N O RT H E R N A R E A S State of Environment & Development Co n t e n t s Acronyms and Abbreviations vi Glossary
[Show full text]
Glaciers in Pakistan | World General Knowledge
Glaciers in Pakistan | World General Knowledge With 7,253 known glaciers, including 543 in the Chitral Valley, there is more glacial ice in Pakistan than anywhere on Earth outside the polar regions, according to various studies. Those glaciers feed rivers that account for about 75 percent of the stored-water supply in the country of at least 200 million. But as in many other parts of the world, researchers say, Pakistan’s glaciers are receding, especially those at lower elevations, including here in the Hindu Kush mountain range in northern Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province. Among the causes cited by scientists: diminished snowfall, higher temperatures, heavier summer rainstorms and rampant deforestation. 1) Baltoro Glacier The glacier at 63km in length is one of the largest land glaciers on Earth. It can be accessed through Gilgit-Baltistan region. The glacier gives rise to the Shigar River. 2) Batura Glacier At 53 km in length, the Batura Glacier is up there with the biggest in the world. It lies in the Batura Valley in the Gojal region of Gilgit Baltistan. 3) Biafo Glacier The Biago Glacier is 67kms long and the third biggest land glacier in the entire world. Mango, Baintha and Namla are campsites set up near the glacier and can be accessed through the Askole Village of Gilgit-Baltistan. 4) Panmah Glacier Located in the Central Karakoram National Park, Gilgit-Baltistan, 5) Rupal Glacier It is the source of the Rupal River and lies in the Great Himalayas. It is South of the Nanga Parbat and North of Laila Peak. Downloaded from www.csstimes.pk | 1 Glaciers in Pakistan | World General Knowledge 6) Sarpo Laggo The glacier flows from Pakistan to China just north of the Baltoro Muztagh Range.
[Show full text]
Glaciar Baltoro (Wikipedia)
GLACIAR BALTORO (WIKIPEDIA) El glaciar Baltoro, de 57 kilómetros de largo, es uno de los glaciares más largos del mundo fuera de las regiones polares. Está ubicado en el Baltistán, dentro de los Territorios del norte de Pakistán, y se extiende por parte de la cordillera del Karakórum. La subcordillera Baltoro Muztagh está al norte y al este del glaciar, mientras que las montañas de Masherbrum se encuentran al sur. Con 8611 m, el K2 es la montaña más alta de la región. En un radio de 20 km se encuentran otros tres ochomiles. El glaciar es tributario del río Shigar, que desemboca en el río Indo. A su vez, en el Baltoro desembocan varios glaciares: el Godwin-Austen, que fluye desde el sur del K2; el Abruzos y varios glaciares del Gasherbrum, provenientes del grupo de picos del Gasherbrum; el glaciar de Vigne, que viene del Chogolisa; y el glaciar de Yermandendu, que comienza en la zona del Masherbrum. La confluencia del Baltoro con el glaciar Godwin-Austen se conoce como Concordia; este lugar y el campamento base del K2 son destinos populares de senderismo. La parte final del glaciar es muy ancha y su parte central es un extenso campo de nieve. Pequeños glaciares van desembocando, creando cascadas de hielo en el punto de unión. Las paredes laterales tienen notables pendientes, llegando a ser precipicios. El glaciar ha esculpido a su paso estrías en las rocas, y el hielo en movimiento ha formado depresiones que se han convertido en numerosos lagos glaciales. Puede accederse al glaciar por la ciudad balti de Skardu.
[Show full text]
Gasherbrum 2 Expedition Trip Notes 2022
GASHERBRUM 2 8,035M / 26,361FT 2022 EXPEDITION TRIP NOTES GASHERBRUM 2 EXPEDITION NOTES 2022 EXPEDITION DETAILS Dates: June 13 to August 1, 2022 Duration: 50 days Departure: ex Islamabad, Pakistan Price: US$28,900 Climb amongst the world’s classic 8,000m peaks. Photo: Mike Roberts In 2022, Adventure Consultants is organising an expedition to the Baltoro Glacier region in the Karakoram Mountains of Pakistan, with the objective of climbing Gasherbrum 2, the 13th highest mountain in the world. This is a remote and rewarding big mountain expedition, with the option to add on Gasherbrum 1 for two 8,000m peaks within a week. An imposing peak in a superbly dramatic landscape, Jeeps will take us to the road end at Tongal, followed Gasherbrum 2 soars above the border of China and by a 2-hour walk to Askole, the last village in the valley. Pakistan. First summitted by an Austrian team in Askole is the beginning of the trek to Base Camp and 1956, it is now regarded amongst the safest of the each night we camp out as we travel up the valley, 8,000m ascents. With its breathtaking approach trek, with our Balti porters providing entertainment and considered by many as one of the best in the world, colour to the otherwise stark and barren countryside. Gasherbrum 2 is an ideal training peak for Everest. Our expedition cooks will provide wholesome and high quality food along the trek and at Base Camp. We will HOW THE EXPEDITION OPERATES cook our own meals while on the mountain.
[Show full text]