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Ocean Life in the Old Sailing Ship Days, from Forecastle to Quarter-Deck

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Ocean Life in the Old Sailing Ship Days, from Forecastle to Quarter-Deck i II OCEAN LIFE IN THE IlHffiHffiffl^H^^^HiiBf OLD SAILING-SHIP DAYS : ! JOHN D.WHIDDEN /^/<r OCEAN LIFE IN THE OLD SAILING SHIP DAYS ' -^^t^tz&SZJi^-<=fI^^-x^ 7, OCEAN LIFE IN THE OLD SAILING SHIP DAYS From Forecastle to Quarter-deck BY CAPTAIN JOHN D. WHIDDEN The sea! the sea! the open sea, The blue, the fresh, the ever free! Without a mark, without a bound, It runneth the earth's wide regions' round; It plays with the clouds; it mocks the skies; Or like a cradled creature lies. The Sea BRYAN W. PKOCTBB. With 29 Illustrations from Photographs BOSTON LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY 1914 Copyright, 1908, BY JOHN D. WHIDDBN. All rights reserved. J. PABKHILL & Co., BOSTON, U.S.A. TO CAPTAIN JOSEPH W. CLAPP OF NANTUCKET DEAR OLD BOY: Although nearly fourscore years have silvered your head, you yet retain your mirth and sense of humor, as evidenced by your frequent letters, which have been to me a source of inspiration. To you, then, in memory of the many pleasant days passed in genial companionship in old Montevideo, S. A., upwards of forty years ago, this work is affectionately dedicated by THE AUTHOR. BOSTON, 1908. PREFACE " " CAPTAIN, why don't you write a book? This question has been often asked me when relating some tale of adventure or humorous anecdote of my sea life. " For the reason that I know nothing of book writing," " I have replied. A school experience of seventy years ago, cut short at the age of twelve years, was not likely to leave a boy, however bright, with a high order of literary attainment." But, as years rolled on, after giving up the sea as a profession, I concluded to jot down from memory my quarter-century's sea experience. The characters are from life, the scenes and incidents as they appeared to me at the time, in a story of a New England boy's career from the age of twelve to thirty- seven. An orphan at five, on shipboard at twelve, exposed to temptation in every port, subjected to the rough usage and strict discipline of our merchant marine of sixty years ago, serving apprenticeship as boy, ordinary, and able seaman in the forecastle, graduating to third, second, and first officer with quarters in the land of knives and forks, i. e. the ship's cabin, and the sacred precincts of the quarter-deck, ending with the command and part vii viii PREFACE ownership of a fine craft; in all that time his feet clear of a ship's plank but twelve months. There certainly should be something interesting in such an experience. The old-time sailing ships, with all the incidents con- nected with them, the captains who commanded and sailed them, the old-time sailors jolly old sea-dogs who manned them, are all of the past, and with them departed the glamour and the romance of the sea, never to return. The march of progress never halts. Steamers have supplanted the old-time sailing ships in a great degree, canvas has given way to machinery and steam, steel and iron have been substituted for wood, sailors are super- seded by engineers with their assistants, while the captain and officers of to-day must be proficient in the knowledge of steam and machinery, ere they can hope for a command. The young men of the present generation know but little of the old-time shipping, or the old sailing-ship days, and in these pages to a certain extent the writer has endeavored to reproduce them. Nearly all the veteran shipmasters, graduates of the old school, so many of whom I well knew, have furled their sails and dropped anchor, let us hope, in a safe, restful harbor, life's troubled voyage ended. Some few yet remain, and to all such I give hearty greeting, trusting they will derive much pleasure from a perusal of these pages, which may be to them a reminder of their former lives. The writer has long since given up the sea as a pro- fession, but the salt sea breeze is still more grateful than the scent of roses, and on the waters of old ocean his happiest days were spent. Thanking my many friends for their words of encourage- PREFACE ix ment, trusting the work will meet with favor from the public, and be accorded a hearty welcome in memory of the bygone days of the old sailing ships, I remain, Heartily yours, JOHN D. WHIDDEN. CONTENTS CHAPTBB PAGB I. IN THE FORECASTLE. THE HALF CLIPPER "ARIEL" 1 II. BOYS' DUTIES IN THE FORECASTLE AT NEW YORK LOADING FOR LIVERPOOL ... 12 III. THE PASSAGE TO LIVERPOOL. JACK AFLOAT AND ASHORE 25 IV. CROSSING THE LINE. FERNANDO NOROHNA. THE MALAYS 32 V. BOAT TOWNS ON CANTON RIVER. LOADING TEAS. HOMEWARD BOUND .... 41 VI. Rio DE JANEIRO. CAPE HORN. OTAHEITE . 52 VII. SOCIETY ISLANDS. HONOLULU. CALIFORNIA GOLD FEVER 59 VIII. WHALING IN '48 AGAIN TAHITI ESCAPE TO THE HILLS. DINNER IN THE FRENCH RESTAURANT , 68 IX. SAN FRANCISCO. ASTORIA. PORTLAND. GENUINE RED MEN 79 X. CHILE AND PERU. ITALY. COTTON SCREWING " " AND CHANTIES ON NEW ORLEANS LEVEES . 89 XI. ASHORE ON TERRA DEL FUEGO. CAPE PEM- BROKE. PORT STANLEY. AN INTERNA- TIONAL INCIDENT ...... 102 XIL FISHING ON THE GRAND BANKS. MAYAGUEZ, PORTO Rico. SAVANNAH, GA. ASHORE ON THE DRY TORTUGAS . 115 xi Xll CONTENTS OHAPTKB PAGE XIII. CALCUTTA. JUGGERNAUT. CEYLON. MAURITIUS ST. HELENA. NEW ORLEANS 124 XIV. CAPTAIN MEACOM'S IDEAS. OBSERVANCE OF THE SABBATH. SOCIAL LIFE IN CALCUTTA. ANIMAL LIFE ON SHIPBOARD . 134 XV. CAPTAIN OF THE " LITTLE LIZZIE." HUR- RICANE OFF RlO DE LA PLATA. BUENOS AYRES IN WINTER. DINNERS, LUNCHES, HORSEBACK RIDING. BARQUE ON FIRE . 150 XVI. NEW ORLEANS IN WINTER. BALLS, OPERAS, ETC. THE FRENCH MARKET AT SUNRISE. To MARSEILLES THE SHIP "J. P. WHIT- NEY." 163 XVII. TAKING THE BLACK VEIL IN SICILY. RE- TURN VOYAGE TO NEW ORLEANS. TRE- MENDOUS ROLLS AND AN ANIMATED OME- LETTE. A WEDDING PARTY ON SHIPBOARD. 179 XVIII. BUYING INTO THE " C. H. JORDAN." A PRO- TRACTED CALM IN THE TROPICS. THE SALADERO DE LA FONDA, MONTEVIDEO. THE EFFECT OF THE WAR ON FOREIGN TRADE ......... 191 XIX. THE FIASCO OF PROFESSOR LOVE THE DOM PEDRO RAILROAD. BRAZILIAN FORESTS. Rio JANEIRO TO ST. THOMAS . 202 XX. LIVELY CHASE BY A PRIVATEER. IN COM- MAND OF SHIP "DANUBE." HEAVY GALE. CHINESE PIRATES. THE ARIEL " AT SHANGHAI 211 XXI. FLYING THROUGH FORMOSA STRAITS. IN SIGHT DAILY OF " MOUNTAIN WAVE " FROM MANILA TO MADAGASCAR. FAREWELL TO OLD CAPE HORN. SAN FRANCISCO AFTER FOURTEEN YEARS 221 XXII. THE PILOT SERVICE IN '63. PACIFIC MAIL STEAMSHIPS. ACAPULCO. ISTHMUS OF CONTENTS xlii CHAPTER PAGE PANAMA. SUPERCARGO TO THE BAHAMA " ISLANDS. SCHOONER ELIZABETH . 236 XXIII. COASTING IN THE BAHAMAS. SOCIABILITY A PROMOTER OF TRADE. EXTRA CARE IN FRUIT TRANSPORTATION. FAMOUS BLOCK- ADE RUNNERS. END OF THE WAR A BLOW TO NASSAU 245 XXIV. THE BARQUE "KEYSTONE." WAR SCENES AT RICHMOND AND PETERSBURG. RIVER GlRONDE AND BORDEAUX. HAPPY OCEAN LIFE IN OLD SAILING SHIP DAYS . 254 XXV. FOUR MONTHS AT FEVER -STRICKEN BUENOS AYRES. THREE HUNDRED SAIL IN PORT. THE BOTANICAL GARDENS OF Rio JA- NEIRO. A WEIRD NIGHT AT BOTOFOGO . 263 XXVI. BAHIA. OUR LADY OF BOM FIM. DINNER PARTIES ON SHIPBOARD. CAPE CLEAR LIGHT. LIVERPOOL 273 XXVII. LIVERPOOL. SPURGEON AND MYRTLE STREET CHAPEL. AN IRISH JAUNTING - CAB. CAPTAINS' WIVES AT SEA .... 282 XXVIII. CHITTAGONG AND AKYAB. AGAIN THE BURNING GHAUTS. INTENSE HEAT DAY AND NIGHT. REDUCING TEMPERATURE. FROM AKYAB TO FALMOUTH, ENGLAND . 291 XXIX. THE ISLE OF ST. HELENA LONGWOOD AND THE TOMB OF NAPOLEON. FALMOUTH, ENGLAND ANTWERP, BELGIUM . 300 XXX. THE DECADENCE OF THE SAILING SHIPS. THE WAR TARIFF. AMERICAN SHIPPING UNDER FOREIGN FLAGS. THE MERCHANT MARINE THE SCHOOL OF RESERVE FOR THE NAVY. FAREWELL TO THE " KEYSTONE * AT ANTWERP . 809 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGB PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR .... Frontispiece WASHINGTON STREET, MARBLEHEAD, IN 1840, SHOWING TOWNHOUSE AND OLD SALEM STAGE ... 2 THE OLD HOME AT MARBLEHEAD, FORMERLY THE RESI- DENCE OF GENERAL JOHN GLOVER OF REVOLU- TIONARY FAME 13 LONGWOOD, ST. HELENA, PRISON HOME OF NAPOLEON . 48 BOTOFOGO BAY AND PEAKS OF GABIA AND CORCOVADA, Rio DE JANEIRO 48 SAN FRANCISCO IN 1849 83 BARQUE "CORNELIA L. BEVAN," OLD -TIME BALTIMORE CLIPPER, OFF PALERMO 83 OFF FOR THE GRAND BANKS IN 1845. " ROUND THE ROCKS OF MARBLEHEAD" 116 APPLETON'S WHARF, MARBLEHEAD, 1840. OLD -TIME FISHING SCHOONERS FITTING OUT . .119 OFF THE GHAUTS AT CALCUTTA. SHIPPING LYING AT MOORINGS 140 MONTEVIDEO BAY, SHOWING MOUNT, URUGUAY . 155 MOUTH OF RIVER CHACO AND WAREHOUSES, BUENOS AYRES 155 " BARQUE " AZOF OFF MARSEILLES. A FINE TYPE OF THE OLD -TIME FREIGHTER 169 MODEL OF SHIP "IsAAC JEANES," CAPTAIN WILLIAM CHIPMAN 178 CAPTAIN WILLIAM CHIPMAN, BARNSTABLE, MASS. 184 " " SHIP J. P. WHITNEY AT PORT OF MALTA . .190 CAPTAIN JOSEPH W. CLAPP, NANTUCKET, MASS. 197 xv xvi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAG* SHIP "DANIEL I. TENNEY" OF NEWBURYPORT, MASS., LEAVING HAVRE 212 SHIP "EDWARD HYMEN" OF CASTINE, MAINE. A FINE SPECIMEN OF THE OLD MERCHANT MARINE . 212 " SHIP "DANUBE AT ANCHOR OFF VICTORIA, HONG- KONG 230 QUAYS AND RIVER FRONTAGE, BORDEAUX . 258 QUAI Louis XVIII AND LIGHT - TOWERS, RIVER Gi- RONDE, BORDEAUX 258 Rio DE JANEIRO, ENTRANCE TO BAY. GLORIA HILL AND SUGAR LOAF 267 Rio DE JANEIRO. AQUEDUCT FROM THE CORCOVADA, TWELVE MILES DISTANT. THE CITY'S WATER SUPPLY 269 CITY OF BAHIA IN 1868 274 Rio DE JANEIRO. CATHEDRAL AND PALACE SQUARE . 277 " SHIP " IMPORTER PASSING ROCK LIGHT, ENTRANCE TO RIVER MERSEY, LIVERPOOL 285 CAPTAIN GEORGE T. AVERY, NEWBURYPORT, MASS. 295 " BARQUE KEYSTONE OFF HOLYHEAD, WALES, FROM BAHIA FOR LIVERPOOL 303 OCEAN LIFE IN THE OLD SAILING SHIP DAYS CHAPTER I 1832 - 1845 " " IN THE FORECASTLE.
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