Letter From The Editor

Dear Reader, It’s a new day at WWD, and the largest news-gathering force in our industry is running full steam ahead as the fall fashion shows move from New York on to Europe and Asia. ¶ WWD is also forging ahead on the digital front. Our global network of reporters, editors and photographers now produces more than 100 exclusive news items per day on WWD.com and the Digital Daily, which is poised for a major enhancement.

We introduced the Digital Daily in April 2015 as a more effi- Talks, Digital Download, WWD Predicts and WWD Dirt, the cient, modern delivery method for our growing number of latter of which is dedicated to the spectacular homes design- readers — not only in the U.S. but worldwide. Our steady flow ers and industry titans build and flip. of news, insights and imagery has helped us push digital sub- WWD plans to continue investing in journalistic excellence scriptions past 60,000 readers daily — a record in the history of to deliver more powerful and indispensable content. We WWD — and we are confident we will gain many more in 2017. recently fortified our Eye and financial desks, reflecting our To further that goal, and to provide even more insightful commitment to the serious — and the fun — in our vibrant and coverage, I am pleased to announce the arrival of a new, fast-changing industry. And under the ownership of Penske bespoke format for our Digital Daily, whose editor-curated Media Corp., we established bureaus in China and Silicon Val- issues contain the most important fashion, beauty and retail ley. How could we ignore the world’s most populous nation, news, features and photos of the past 24 hours, delivered each and the technologies that are transforming how we live and business morning to your inbox. spend? This new technology platform provides a seamless desk- Of course, we would never. And we will continue to keep top-to-mobile experience and improved readability so sub- you, our dear reader, at the forefront of our efforts as we scribers can access the most crucial news, business insights, expand our international reach and ramp up our commit- trends — and the most fabulous parties — from anywhere in ment to leading the industry conversation in fashion, beauty the world. and retail. This enriched format will also afford us a greater scope Born and raised in Canada, and a news reporter my entire to provide readers with even more of the exclusive, busi- career, I joined WWD in the late Nineties, discovering the best ness-to-business content that has been WWD's lifeblood for school in the world for serious fashion journalism. I spent the more than 110 years. last 16 years in Paris, documenting the incredible ascent of the We will continue to produce print issues, more selectively European luxury sector, and the flattening of the world thanks — daily in tandem with key industry events, and seasonally fol- to the Internet and social media revolutions. lowing fashion weeks, diving deeper into the biggest moments I’m thrilled and honored to return to New York to lead this of the industry calendar. great media brand, and embrace digital and mobile media Since becoming editor in chief last month, I have begun to first. WWD is often called the bible of fashion. Get ready for retool and energize our operation so it is better positioned to version 2.0. dig out more exclusive news and scoops, plus vital industry data and insights. Over the coming weeks and months, you — Miles Socha will also discover a slate of recurring features, including CEO E d i t o r i n C h i e f ADVERTISEMENT

THE REPORT 2017

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK FALL/WINTER 2017-2018 FEBRUARY 16 eige is the new black. So is pink. And taupe. And cognac. And deep, dark green. We could go on but, in- stead, let’s make this simple: Every color is cool when it comes to fur this fall-except black. That’s not to say that black doesn’t serve a purpose. It came in handy as a sweetly-tied Bbow cinching the waist of a neutral number at Sally LaPointe. It grounded the bright white and bold red at Tory Burch. And it was the much-needed background shade to make the pastel-and- jewel-tone embellishments at Naeem Khan pop. Brandon Maxwell

Alice + Olivia

Naeem Khan

Coach 1941

Michael Kors

”The collection is sophisticated and elegant, with a touch of boho.“ DENNIS BASSO

Pam Moncler & Gela Grenoble

Dennis Sally Tory Basso LaPointe Burch

#FUR NOW WWW.FURINSIDER.COM february 17, 2017 3

business Kate Spade Shares Spike Top 5 Trending As Wall Street Bets on a Deal on WWD.com ● Speculation has centered results — net income rose 39.2 percent things come down to deals that move on an arrangement set to be to $85.5 million, or 67 cents a diluted the needle….Spending time on a $200 share, on a 9.8 percent net sales gain to million acquisition or one that’s $3 billion cemented by midsummer at $470.8 million that included a same-store takes similar time and effort, but a larger $24 or $25 a share. sales decline of 1.5 percent – for the three deal can mean seismic shifts in who you months ended Dec. 31, had some Wall are as a company.” By Vicki M. Young Street analysts betting that a sale would Singer said Kors, which has $200 occur this year. million in cash, would need high-debt Shares of Kate Spade & Co. spiked The results, and the adjusted EPS of 41 financing to get a deal done. He said that Thursday after the company confirmed cents that easily beat analysts’ consensus the “average duration from rumor to deal it was reviewing its strategic alternatives, estimate by 6 cents, had Wunderlich Secu- is seven to eight months,” which means a but not everyone agreed about how rities Inc. analyst Eric Beder concluding Kate deal could happen by midsummer. much Kate could provide in terms of that its fourth quarter was “solid” on many Wells Fargo analyst Ike Boruchow growth trajectory. levels. Driven by better-than-expected said that with the better-than-expected The company — which also posted international margins and strong overall holiday results, and historical takeout fourth-quarter results — confirmed that operating leverage, as well as a direct- multiples in the space, Boruchow said a it was undergoing a strategic review that to-consumer comps gain of 9.3 percent, takeout could have a “valuation range” includes a potential sale. The company in Beder said the results reflect the compa- of $24 to $25 a share. November had been pushed to undertake ny’s “continued focus on fashion newness And while Wall Street is anticipating a that action by activist investor Caerus and reducing overall discounting.” deal, some retail consultants wondered Investors, a New York hedge fund. The Jefferies analyst Randal Konik saw Coach whether Kate would really be that great accessories firm said, “The board plans — further along in its turnaround — as the an acquisition for anyone. to proceed in a timely manner, but has better suitor. He also cited Coach’s expe- Gabriella Santaniello, founder of not set a definitive timetable for comple- rience in leveraging the team’s technical fashion and retail research firm A-Line Kanye West tion of this process.” Kate noted there expertise and effecting a seamless integra- Partners and former managing director was no guarantee that the process would tion of its Stuart Weitzman acquisition. As for retail market research at Wedbush Waits for No One result in a sale. for Kors, Konik said that with shares of the Securities, said, “The problem with Kate Speculation has centered on Coach Inc. company trading in “such deep value ter- is that it has a very [niche] following. It’s — Not Even Kylie and Michael Kors Holdings Ltd. as possible ritory and $642 million in projected [free been Kate doing the whimsical thing, acquirers. There has also been talk that cash flow for fiscal 2018], we believe share staying very true to the brand, but the ● Kylie Jenner and Tyga private equity firms might have considered repurchases would be a better alternative question is ‘What is its longevity?’” She arrived at 3:28 p.m. — but the Kate, but the consensus seems to be that a for rewarding investors.” added that the consumer pool at “higher strategic buyer would make more sense. Mortimer Singer, chief executive officer end for Kate would be a lot smaller than Yeezy Season 5 action was Shares of Kate rose 14.7 percent to close at Marvin Traub Associates, believes Kors or Coach because the latter two are already under way. at $22.56 on the Big Board. Coach, Kors and PVH have each consid- bags you carry forever. With Kate, it’s a The accessories firm’s fourth-quarter ered a Kate acquisition. He said, “These different aesthetic.” ● Meeting the Media with The Netanyahus, First Lady Melania Trump business Chooses Karl Lagerfeld True, Skin Collagen and Avon Care, Ensemble McCoy said. In Russia, the company’s third-largest ● Philipp Plein Rep Reacts Avon Numbers Dip, market, Avon suffered because of pricing from its fashion and home divisions that to Alexander Wang’s were “out of sync” with the broader mar- Copycat Accusation Representatives Decline ket, McCoy said, indicating that competi- tors in Russia lowered prices. ● Bella Hadid Channels ● The beauty brand posted losses per share were 3 cents. Avon noted that while numbers are Kate Moss for V Magazine The company’s numbers were affected down, progress has been made with $260 million in debt by the spin-off of its North America divi- its restructuring plan, termed a Trans- ● Presley Gerber, Son of reduction for 2016. sion to Cerberus Capital Management, a formation Plan, which was unveiled in Cindy Crawford, Stars in deal that closed in March 2016. The com- January 2016. The company is aiming to By Allison Collins G2000 Campaign pany said it had a $14 million loss from invest in growth, improve its cost struc- Avon Products Inc.’s stock plummeted discontinued operations, about 3 cents a ture and “improve financial resilience.” on Thursday after the company reported diluted share. In its first year, Avon reduced debt by a 7 percent sales decline for 2016. For the year, beauty sales were down. $260 million, beating its $250 million Avon’s stock dropped more than 18 per- In skin care, Avon posted a 7 percent goal, and extended its maturity profile. NEWSMAKERS cent in Thursday trading, closing at $4.77. decline to $1.6 billion from $1.7 billion; in “Our transformation plan is well under For the full year, Avon’s revenue was fragrance, the company’s sales dipped 6 way and was a key enabler of our 2016 This Week’s Most $5.7 billion, down 7 percent. Diluted percent to $1.5 billion from $1.6 billion, financial performance,” said Avon chief Talked About Names losses per share were 25 cents. Avon’s and in color, sales dropped 7 percent to executive officer Sheri McCoy on the com- number of active representatives dipped $997 million from $1.07 billion. pany’s earnings call. “We delivered $120 In Our Industry 1 percent, primarily because of a decline The EMEA region posted $2.1 billion in million in cost savings in 2016, above our in the Asia-Pacific region that was par- sales for the year, down 4 percent; South target for the year, we also significantly tially offset by increases in Europe, the Latin America also posted $2.1 billion strengthened our balance sheet.” Middle East and Africa. in sales, down 7 percent; North Latin One analyst on the company’s call “We’ve known that Avon’s turnaround America brought in $829.9 million in — Ali Dibadj of Alliance Bernstein — wouldn’t be linear, but this quarter’s sales, an 8 percent decline, and Asia-Pa- expressed concern that Avon’s level results are still unsettling,” wrote Barclays cific posted $556 million in sales, an 11 of investment in the business may not analyst Lauren Lieberman in a note. percent drop. be enough for the company to deliver Marc Jacobs Kanye West “Though Avon did sound more cautious Avon chief executive officer Sheri consistent results. In response, new on many of its key markets at ICR last McCoy said that the company continued chief financial officer Jamie Wilson, who month, we surely were not braced for a to gain market share in Brazil, Avon’s started in January, said that he didn’t revenue and profit miss of this magnitude largest market, and that the company “accept” the company would “have to and breadth.” “grew [its] upper mass brands at a faster spend a ton more” and that certain skills

X/Shutterstock; Chirico by George Chinsee George Chirico by / RE X/Shutterstock; Hilty/ BFA Zach by F ilmMagic; Lam A lo Ceballos/ by ermin; West “Overall, the [fourth quarter] result rate than [its] overall business” — in line Avon is trying to improve couldn’t neces- was quite disappointing, indicating the with the company’s previously stated sarily be fixed overnight or with a bigger difficulty of achieving consistent improve- goals. McCoy added that the company investment. ment in a direct-selling model broadly expects “solid performance” from Brazil “A lot of it can be time rather than Derek Lam Emanuel Chirico which affords more limited visibility,” in 2017. just lots of money being thrown at the wrote Stifel analyst Mark Astrachan. Mexico, Avon’s second-largest market, problem,” Wilson said. “You’ve got to For the fourth quarter, net sales were is working to improve representative look at these things and give them time

Jacobs photograph by A bel F by photograph Jacobs down 2 percent to $1.6 billion. Diluted retention, but saw strong sales of Avon to take traction.”

february 17, 2017 5

Fall Collections 2017

will forever be the foundation of youth-cul- reversal from last season’s dizzying, deco- he’s ever done. Too short for ya? “For VIP Marc Jacobs ture street style.” rative overstatement, these clothes weren’t customers who want any of those dresses “Every one of the creative decisions — from And what better place to celebrate the at all tricked-out or exaggerated, unless made longer, we have that service. We music to styling to accessories to shoes to origins of street style than on the street? you consider a tracksuit in thick, bright are happy to do that, for the red carpet or bags to clothes to the girls, the diversity of While Jacobs had said that he wanted to red cashmere or a teeny, bugle-beaded, whatever,” Jacobs said. the casting or the lack of diversity of the strip away elaborate production trappings — feather-hemmed dress exaggerations of For now, his girls were dressed for the casting, everything — it’s all part of the expe- and that he hoped his guests would respect sorts. “Everything is kind of dressing to be street, and there they went. After traipsing rience,” Marc Jacobs told WWD last week his wishes to put away their phones and outside,” Jacobs said in a preview the night the block-long length of the Armory, they when explaining his approach to his shows. enjoy the live-show experience — anyone before the show. To that end, the anchor exited through its entrance to Park Avenue, Show notes (which he doesn’t typi- expecting a lack of theatricality was dead look was a short coat over a little dress, taking seats in a tableau vivant that seemed cally do) included. His, titled “Respect,” wrong, and most likely, in short order, often in Twenties-inspired laces, or wide, to ape the kind of Instagram-obsessed front explained his inspiration, the Netflix docu- delighted. Guests entered the cavernous extralong pants that puddled over boots. row Jacobs wanted to eschew. They pulled mentary series “Hip-Hop Evolution.” After Park Avenue Armory from Lexington to find There was fur galore, both real and faux, out cell phones and started taking pictures last season’s social media storm over his it completely empty and raw but for two and thick, patterned knits. Jacobs punctu- of the exiting guests, who in turn started pastel dreadlocks, Jacobs’ decision to go rows of chairs down the middle. That was ated it all with big bubble caps by Stephen taking pictures of the models, as passersby there at all seemed a statement of both bra- the extent of the set. There were no lights, Jones and bigger “gold” chain necklaces by stopped to take pictures of the models and vado and the desire to be understood. He nor even a musical note to signal the start artist Urs Fischer. (Those girls are slight but guests taking pictures of each other. wrote that he first experienced the impact of the show. Just a girl starting down the strong; the necklaces weighed a ton.) “What we’re working toward this season of hip-hop on the broader culture as a runway, followed by 39 more. It was feisty and fun while putting a might not seem like the spectacles of the high school kid in New York, and that this They wore real clothes of the casual hyper-polished spin on the concept of past,” Jacobs said last week. Yeah, right show is “an acknowledgment and gesture sort — early hip-hop here with a soupçon of everyday clothes. (“Considered” is Jacobs’ Marc. Nothing spectacular here. Just of respect for the polish and consideration Seventies sportif in a palette of warm neu- word for his approach.) It was also one of experimental street theater, costumed in applied to fashion from a generation that trals shot with red, wine and maroon. In a the most overtly commercial collections everyday chic. — Bridget Foley 6 february 17, 2017

Fall Collections 2017

cheesy. The strength here was that Lauren or exposed midriff. Yes, there were nods — all high interest and high impact. Ralph Lauren telegraphed that sense of romantic dis- to traditional sportiness in relaxed jackets Yet the real stars were the micro There’s much to be said for fashion’s tance with discretion, never crossing over and pants, yada, yada. But this show was paillettes, liquid lamés and other silks ability to tell stories. On Wednesday, Ralph to cliché. really about big-picture ease, a lifestyle that Lauren used for spectacular evening Lauren spun a beauty, a tale of nomadic Continuing the course he embarked on philosophy manifested fashion-wise in a dresses: goddess gowns in jade and purple, meanderings through the proverbial, last season, this was an instant fashion, fluid silhouette. In that sense, chicken or an embroidered lilac Lurex lamé embroi- non-specific realm of far away. That lack of buy-now show. Beginning Thursday, the egg: Which came first, the unfettered, tex- dered gown in a modified sac shape, a geographic definition imbued the collec- spring clothes will be available online as tural layering that allows for a psychologi- strapless in pale printed gold. A pair of tion with a dreamlike feel, especially by well at select stores around the world. cal exhale, or the relaxed, bohemian mind- skin-baring black cady gowns were equally night. You didn’t want to wake up. Early shoppers at the flagship will expe- set that can’t be confined or corseted? stunning. Lauren showed at his women’s flagship on rience the installation, which will remain Unfettered — definitely. Yet not a While these were high evening, some Madison Avenue, where the first two floors intact through Monday. synonym for plain. These clothes were looks will traverse between night and day. were transformed into a floral wonderland, The lineup’s opening palette drew packed with surface interest — a jacket Case in point: the airy gown-cum-anorak their walls completely covered in orchids, from sand and dunes — off-whites, beiges, handwoven from strips of suede and in a watery silk print that closed the show. 100,000 or so, intertwined with air plants, almost-golds — and set the mood of subtle leather over a washed silk dress, a bur- Lauren showed it over the collection’s desert agave, vines and moss. “It’s a little bit sensuality borne as much from the models’ nished gold dress with petal skirt under a lone pair of jeans. Because no matter how exotic,” Lauren said during a preview. ownership of the clothes as from discreet distressed leather jacket, a dress in what remarkable the trip, the best roads lead

Just the right bit. Themes can be displays of skin, whether bared shoulder appeared to be an open, artisanal lace home. — Bridget Foley Giannoni Giovanni by Photographs february 17, 2017 7

business Ralph Lauren Says It With Flowers ● The designer knows how to set the tone for a runway show.

By Sharon Edelson

NEW YORK — If retail theater is dead, someone forgot to tell Ralph Lauren. At a time when physical stores are fight- ing to regain their relevancy for increas- ingly digitally driven shoppers, Lauren created an uplifting environment that’s attracting shoppers and inviting them to linger and smell the orchids. The designer’s Madison Avenue flagship through Monday is a banquet for the senses with an immersive floral installation replete with the sounds of chirping birds and fluttering mechanical butterfly wings, created for Lauren’s February see-now- buy-now runway shows. The living walls throughout the first and second floor are made up of about 100,000 orchids, give or take a few, 300 air plants and desert agave, intertwined with moss. The living set has soil that needs to be replenished throughout the day and designers were moving the white blooms around until they had it just right up until the doors opened for the runway Customers at Ralph shows on Wednesday night. Lauren’s Madison At a shopping event on Thursday for Avenue flagship. the collection, clients swooned over the romantic, blossom-filled tableaux. There sometimes provides a clue to its theme, of the shows, was smitten with the floral heart. It’s iconic and modern in a way that was informal modeling for inspiration, Schwebel said. displays. “I don’t think I could ever forget only Ralph Lauren can do. It’s like I would canapés for fortification and Champagne “On Feb. 14, I received flowers in my that feeling,” she said. “I’ve been to four want to wear everything.” and wine for the lubrication of wallets. room and they were all orchids,” she Ralph Lauren shows. The collection was “Oh my goodness, those are my colors. Leslie Schwebel, a longtime customer, explained. “Never did I think it was going elegant but wearable. I don’t think there I’m a New Yorker visiting from Colorado, attended Lauren’s consumer-facing runway to be floor-to-ceiling, and upstairs and was one thing that I saw where I didn’t say, where I moved,” said Stefany Lys. “It’s just show Wednesday night and returned downstairs.” ‘Oh my God, I want that.’ It was absolutely a happy, serendipitous stop. Thursday for a closer look at the collection. Schwebel got a tease of the flower walls stunning, just gorgeous.” “The flowers are magnificent. I knew “I’ve been wearing Ralph Lauren since on Wednesday morning when she showed Norsworthy said the see-now-buy-now right away they were not going to be before he had stores,” said Schwebel, who up at the flagship, forgetting that it was aspect of the collection is appealing. “It has fake. It was great to bump into my friend, lives mostly in California. “I’ve gone to a lot closed in preparation for the runway shows a huge impact, seeing a show and not hav- Richard Schinto [executive sales associate], of his shows way downtown. This [setting] that night. “The doors to the store were ing to wait six months to get the clothes.” who’s been with Ralph Lauren for years.” is beyond my expectations. It’s magnifi- blacked out, but a [worker] opened the “The flowers are so appealing,” said Asked whether she’ll buy anything from cent. The collections are always gorgeous.” door and I saw the back wall,” she said. Dana Guercio. “How many do you think the collection, Lys said, “There is that The designer sent a floral arrange- “When I walked in last night, I was in awe.” there are? There could be a million orchids jacket…distressed leather with a button on ment to her hotel before a show, which Jeanette Norsworthy, who attended one here. The collection really hit me in the the neck. I’ve got my eye on it.”

fashion efforts for clients across the luxury and our continued growth in this category.” consumer lifestyle sectors. He will be Last October, David Lauren, who had part of the company’s executive team and been executive vice president of global Designer Names CMO, dually report to Hermann and Ralph Lau- advertising, marketing and communica- ren, executive chairman and chief creative tions, was elevated to vice chairman and officer, on an interim basis. chief innovation officer. Previously, Lau- Men’s Brand President Earlier this month, Stefan Larsson ren had been responsible for the global stepped down as president and chief exec- advertising and marketing campaigns for ● Jonathan Bottomley has officer for more than a decade, working utive officer of Lauren, effective May 1. Bot- the group and all of its brands, as well as been named chief marketing alongside Tom Ford to build the brand from tomley, who joins April 3, will report to the the firm’s corporate and fashion commu- inception. On Tuesday, Ford named Brian new ceo, once that appointment is made. nications and strategic marketing part- officer; Tom Mendenhall Blake president and chief operating officer, The key hires are part of a strategy to nerships. He also introduced one of the has been appointed brand taking over duties from Mendenhall. fortify the firm’s leadership in support of industry’s first luxury fashion web sites, president, Men’s Polo, Prior to Ford, Mendenhall was a senior its Way Forward Plan. created an e-commerce site optimized for vice president at Abercrombie & Fitch, and “As we write our next chapter, we con- mobile phones, and introduced QR scan Purple Label and Double RL. before that, spent eight years as worldwide tinue to add exceptionally strong leaders technology to the U.S. for fashion, among By Lisa Lockwood director of merchandising at Gucci. He with the passion, energy and talent to lead other initiatives. At the time of Lauren’s starts at Ralph Lauren on March 29 and our company into the future,” Lauren said. move, the company said it was looking to reports to Valérie Hermann, president of “Both Jonathan and Tom bring a fresh name a chief marketing officer. NEW YORK — Signaling its commitment Global Brands. perspective and incredible depth of brand While Larsson is remaining at the com- to growing the linchpin men’s business, Ralph Lauren also hired Jonathan experience to Ralph Lauren. They each pany for several more weeks, he admitted Ralph Lauren Corp. has snared longtime Bottomley its new chief marketing officer, have impressive track records and we are on a conference call earlier this month Tom Ford International executive Tom another new post. He will be charged with looking forward to welcoming them into that he was leaving because of disagree- Mendenhall to become brand president “evolving Ralph Lauren’s brand voice,” our leadership as our evolution continues. ments — presumably with Lauren — over of men’s. leading the global marketing team and Hermann, who was promoted to her creative and consumer-facing parts of the In this new role, all men’s brand func- developing marketing strategies across the current role in September, said, “Jona- business including product, marketing tions will funnel through Mendenhall, company. than and Tom will play critical roles as we and store experience. Both the company including design and merchandising, and Bottomley most recently was chief move forward in our evolution as a brand and Larsson said it was a mutual decision. he will be charged with maximizing the strategy officer of Virtue, a Vice Media Co. and company. Jonathan’s innovative, inte- At the time, the company said it would potential of the Polo, Purple Label and Prior to that, he was chief strategy officer grated approach will bring freshness and continue to execute its Way Forward Plan, Double RL businesses. and managing partner in the London cohesion to our iconic marketing efforts, introduced last June. Chief financial offi- Prized for his merchandising skill, Men- headquarters of Bartle Bogle Hegarty while Tom’s proven experience and rec- cer Jane Nielsen is leading the execution

Photograph by Lexie Moreland Lexie by Photograph denhall served as Ford’s chief operating where he led strategic brand-building ognized excellence in men’s will support of the plan until the new ceo is found. 8 february 17, 2017

Fall Collections 2017

Thom Browne Don’t be fooled by the penguins. Thom Browne chose them as his “animal of the season,” making funny bags in their shape, and embroidering penguins on various jackets and skirts, but his fall collec- tion was not about lovable birds who can’t fly. Nor was it about ice-skating, though the set was a storybook frozen pond from another time, surrounded by barren trees, a beached rowboat and fake penguins. The models glided over the rink — actually, some staggered — wearing boots that looked like literal ice skates including the blades. Browne likes to play, but he is extremely serious about his work, the craftsmanship of clothes, and that was really the focus of this extraordinary collection. “This season, between men’s and women’s, it was really about appreciation of fabric and construction,” he said after the show, understating it all. Browne paints a full picture. Here, it was colored mostly in icy shades of gray — both the set and the clothes, which were compilations of traditional, buttoned-up men’s suiting, feminized in silhouette but done with all the masculine finishes. Neckties, sock garters, elongated starched cuffs with thumb-holes and long john layers emphasized the bundled, just-in- from-the cold look. There’s not enough space here to go on about all the incredible, imaginative treat- ments Browne cooked up within the con- text of classic tailoring, but to talk about a few: A double breasted overcoat in gray herringbone Harris Tweed with black tulle overlay was shown “inside out” to make the construction the decoration. A striped sport coat — worn over striped pants with a giant striped intarsia mink muff — was composed of strips of linen-chest canvas, blue mink, dark gray 130s and grosgrain ribbon. A double-breasted sack jacket in gray cavalry twill was covered in exquisite chandelier embroideries of tiny buttons and worn over down puffer trousers. There were tweeds, argyles and blown- out houndstooth. Some pieces qualified as relative basics, others were delightfully out- there explorations of an anything-is-possible approach to tailored fabrics. For example, an embroidered chesterfield covered in loops, almost like a tailored approximation of faux fur, made from silk and lace suiting. It was worn over an amazing shredded lace skirt. At some point, Browne introduced sporty color, and he closed the show with elegant, creative riffs on black tie tuxedos — oh yes, the penguin suit — including a bride in a black puffer tuxedo jacket with a train, trailed by a maiden to carry it. That was just the clothes. Browne did not miss any opportunity to kick up the details: bags that were shaped like white shirts and black jackets, white boots done in white-shirt-black-tie trompe l’oeil. Taking the idea of fabric appreciation to another level, he wrapped all the set’s trees and reeds with gray tailored fabrics. The models’ lips, eyebrows and manicures were cut from stick-on gray herringbone and plaid. Their hair trailed with ultralong braids made from more gray fabric. The sum of the many parts was a power- ful, lyrical, complete look. If it tickled the fashion crowd, one can see how it might

confuse or intimidate a civilian. But the odin B anica truth is, any one of the lineup’s spectacular jackets or coats could be worn with a pair of jeans. In that sense, there’s a lot of reality in

Browne’s wild imagination. — Jessica Iredale R by Photograph

10 february 17, 2017

Fall Collections 2017

Yeezy Season 5 Derek Lam

stretched upward at least 20 feet and for guys and girls, as well as big hoodies they are busy-busy,” said the designer Yeezy Season 5 broadcast each look live, one at a time and varsity jackets that displayed the during a speech to introduce his fall Fashion and music’s most famous with a 360-degree camera. The audience “Calabasas” logo West and his wife, Kim collection, which offered a realistic prodigal son has come home — home in didn’t actually see the models, including Kardashian, have been photographed wardrobe for dynamic, modern women. this metaphor being a traditional fash- Luka Sabbat and Lauryn Hill’s daughter wearing. For example, an oversize Lam explored quite reassuring territory, ion show venue, a show conducted in a Selah Marley, until the video finished and bomber with a black panther on the back offering a range of women’s staples with a reasonable time frame with a remarkably the cast walked around the screens for the and the words “Calabasas Lost Hills 91302 twist, for a lineup that didn’t look basic or organized front-of-house staff and little to finale. But in terms of getting a good, long Acoura,” all Los Angeles references. To banal. Trenchcoats worked both in a tex- no pretension to the scene. Yes, it seems look at the clothes, shoes and bags, this accessorize, there were gigantic duffels, tured floral tapestry fabric and in leather Kanye West’s perceived karmic comeup- method worked. baseball caps and a white and teal sneaker were cinched at the waist with belts with pance after a disastrous Yeezy Season 4 As for the collection, it was perfectly for men that would make suburban dads sleek, metallic buckles. Leather was also last September yielded to a Yeezy Season in line with the current Nineties worn-in, look like suburban dads, but captured crafted into a flared skirt worn with a 5 that was, comparatively, a picture of weathered streetwear revival given an that mood of ironic cool in this element. fitted knit top, while fluid silk blouses and refinement. improbable aura of glamour. For women, West didn’t do interviews, get on the dresses were trimmed with micro ruffles People who might have expected him to a teal plaid flannel workwear jacket was mic and rant or play his own album. The for a romantic touch. A more sporty feel stumble again were pleasantly surprised. worn over a teal sweater and stone- show ended so quietly the audience sat for was introduced via wide-leg pants with West checked all the professional boxes washed straight-leg cool-mom jeans a prolonged awkward moment of silence high-cuffs, while a striped fox vest and this time, without abandoning that Yeezy tucked into knee-high, slouchy suede collectively wondering if it was time to go. a mink fur coat with a dégradé effect swagger. He ceased his collaboration high-heel boots. The boot-and-casual — Jessica Iredale exuded comfortable luxury. Matte jersey with Vanessa Beecroft, at least for this pants combo continued with rusty suede was used for chic yet practical asymmet- season, which immediately toned down over-the-knee stilettos over faded black ric skirts and fluid dresses punctuated by the gimmicks by half. The 300-person jeans, and burgundy leather thigh boots Derek Lam metallic studs. Even if Lam didn’t push show was in one of the standard studios, hiked up over a burgundy Adidas track- What do women really need from any boundaries or explore any hypercre- pitch black (for those who couldn’t see suit with the jacket tucked into the pants. fashion? That was the question that Derek ative options, this collection looked ele- their seat, there were plenty of Karla Otto That look is not ultra nerdy anymore — Lam wanted to answer with his intimate gant and sophisticated with its laid-back escorts) with four wall-like screens that it’s cool. There was a lot of camouflage, runway show. “They love fashion, but attitude. — Alessandra Turra february 17, 2017 11

Fall Collections 2017

Marchesa Elie Tahari Victor Alfaro

Marchesa Marchesa’s red-carpet starlets just as well. contrasting texture and a wide-ranging that mood and did it well with statement Imperial China set the mood for Geor- Several of them — Mandy Moore, Petra color palette didn’t help. Elements of the coats, such as an oversize denim robe gina Chapman and Keren Craig this season. Nemcova, Coco Rocha, Olivia Culpo — theme were seen as 3-D faux-fur floral coat with the word “Hope” and a dove With the caveat that it was “just a nod” looked on with awe from the front row. patches on outerwear, floral printed vel- embroidered on it, a hoodie with a peace to the era, Chapman said they ultimately — Kristi Garced vets and snakeskin-floral combinations on sign, a jacquard bomber shown over a aimed to draw from the empire’s grand button-down shirts and dresses. sweater with a star and the word “wish,” opulence while fusing it with Marchesa’s Individually, there were highlights, and dressed-up track pants. There were soft, sensual romance. “We mixed in new Elie Tahari like the ring-adorned fur coats, the aqua long, loose floral dresses that could swing color stories that we haven’t done before,” Among contemporary labels, Elie Tahari grouping of velvet and chic tailored outer- grungy or pretty, depending on how they added Craig, highlighting the use of char- tends toward an aesthetic of sleek tailoring wear, like a navy coat paired with tailored were styled. treuse and red mixed with pastels. “And suited for a business casual environment. pants with contrasting trim; as a whole, Alfaro, like so many of his peers, was we had a lot of fun.” You turn to him to find affordable, tweaked the collection could have used an edit. A impacted by November’s election. “It’s The show’s opening gown — a cap- classics, not trend-driven fast fashion. His focus on those respective groupings and going to become cliché, but I was strug- sleeve, black Chantilly lace column cov- latest collection took its cues from the an expansion of the cool velvet puffers as a gling with how relevant what we do is,” ered in floral embroidery with a long skirt Garden of Eden — with elements of florals, lifestyle category would have sufficed. he said, noting that a friend reassured made from rainbow tassel fringe — was feathers, fur and leopard, all-inclusive. The — Andrew Shang him that dressing women and making straight out of the Qing dynasty. A more resulting visual punch of mixed prints and them feel good is important. Aside from delicate version trotted down the runway media was a tougher-than-usual sell. that, he said he’s looked around the soon after, this one with a sheer, plunging After a walk-through at the showroom Victor Alfaro stores he’s been in and didn’t feel that neckline bodice and long, romantic sleeves without the designer, Tahari emerged Is it OK for a designer to go wherever the the perfect, polished stuff is what women with the same rainbow fringe used as trim. briefly to give a short statement: “The most wind blows, aesthetically speaking? Victor want to wear. The stores are asking for A strapless chartreuse gown in silk mikado important thing is truth and the truth is that Alfaro has been quietly figuring that out emotion, novelty, a message. Alfaro knows with floral-patterned bugle beading at the no one can come close to this collection.” over the past few seasons, as he’s ping- he’s been here and there in terms of the bust certainly captured Shanghai glamour. That bold opinion is likely rooted in the ponged from sporty polish to superchic look he’s presented and his business is And an ankle-length tulle gown covered eclectic yet disorienting range the collec- polish to raw, Japanese-influenced denim, probably small enough to get away with in 3-D feathered floral appliqués was tion had to offer. There were groupings of followed by Victoriana crossed with mod- experimentation. A key part of the fall col- breathtaking. Oversize bows decorated the feather and fur embellishments, jewel-tone ern street. lection were select words and phrases he lineup throughout; a wink, Craig said, to velvets, leopard prints, cold-weather Now, he’s in gender-fluid street territory, embroidered or printed on various items: the Fifties. puffers, fringy holiday dresses and shooting his fall women’s collection on happy, always, love and be you. Overall, the lineup wasn’t necessarily hardware-adorned biker jackets, without girls and guys in Bushwick for a gritty Ber- For fall, he was following his own

Photographs by Giovanni Giannoni, MJ Photos and Jeremy Williams and Jeremy MJ Photos Giannoni, Giovanni by Photographs cohesive or fresh, but it should serve much of a connective thread. Plays on lin-industrial Brooklyn vibe. He captured advice. — Jessica Iredale The off-price platform for buyers and sellers.

The new way to buy and sell off-price

[email protected] | www.inturn.co february 17, 2017 13

Nili Lotan WWD Predicts Fall Nili Lotan Baja East Collections Fashion he also brought the collection prices 2017 down by 20 percent so that most things Holds Court are under $400. A court-inspired trend for fall. A giant puffer came in powder pink. A snow-white fur coat was layered with By Roxanne Robinson a faux-fur stole with the word “Pandas” emblazoned on it in black. A red hoodie As the New York fall collections wind down, there has been a courtly influence was logo-ed with “Nicoboy” and a brand — as in Louis XIV and his ilk. Accessories crest and worn with a red tulle skirt. and ready-to-wear have taken cues from Everything was styled with Uggs, which the regal accoutrements of various royals, could very well be up for an earnest/ especially those from the 17th and 18th ironic revival. — Jessica Iredale centuries. Perhaps an inspiration from the abundance of exclusive content streaming on services like Netflix and HBO with shows See by Chloé like "Reign," "Versailles," "The Crown" and "Game of Thrones." Clare Waight Keller didn’t do anything wild or momentous for her final See by Chloé collection. She’s not that kind of designer and it’s not that kind of brand. She kept a good thing going, staying con- sistent with the romantic, English tomboy hippie look for which the collection is known. There were pretty pussy-bow Nicopanda See by Chloé blouses; long, loose floral dresses; oversize teddy jackets and lace velvet knit sweats. velvet slipdresses with high slits and fringe There’s always a rustic side to Chloé and Baja East embellishments throughout, trimming the here Waight Keller dug in, oversizing Scott Studenberg and John Targon know edges of relaxed denim jeans. Mixed in proportions on everything, which worked how to make an entrance. with decadent cashmere knits and velvet very well on some very cool wide-leg work- On the night of Feb. 14, the Baja East robe coats were the label’s cheeky graphic wear pants — denim and twill — cropped duo arrived at their dinner-cum-fall-pre- Ts and pullover hoodies at a more acces- above the ankle and worn with polished sentation at Kola House — both of them sible price point, a few pieces of which yet rugged knee-high combat boots that sporting freshly dyed blue hair — in a are immediately available in a see-now- looked good laced up to the knee or folded white limo with a gaggle of supermodels buy-now capsule on the online shopping down and tied around the ankle. in tow. The dinner party, which they platform, Spring. High-low, glam-grunge — J.I. described as “Studio 54 meets the Daily mission: accomplished. — Kristi Garced Mail,” featured a cast of friends, “It” girls and models — including Sara Sampaio, Nili Lotan Jonathan Simkhai Alexandra Richards, Crystal Renn, Alana Nicopanda Nili Lotan summed up her fall collection Naeem Khan Hadid, Ophelie Guillermand, Caroline If everything is relative, then when with two words: femininity and sensual- Vreeland, Riley Montana, Cindy Bruna, Nicola Formichetti decided he wanted ity. This being Lotan, it was channeled Soo Joo Park and Shea Marie — all of them his fall Nicopanda collection to be more in her own way; without girlish frills in looks from Baja East’s latest collection “basic,” he was not talking white T-shirts or overt sexiness. A glance at the look of sexy, decadent streetwear. and jeans. Rather, it was the beginning of book, shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and There was nothing contrived about the a core collection to make the Nicopanda Vinoodh Matadin, depicted a strong, chic format — Baja East makes clothes to get brand, which is about cute-but-bold downtown girl: “The feeling and mood loose in, and that’s exactly what their Baja anime-influenced street that’s meant to of TriBeCa is what dictates the collection baes were doing. What better way to expe- be unisex since the clothes go both ways — relaxed, laid-back, unpretentious and rience their collection than to have Angela for men who like to wear ruffles, more nonchalant,” Lotan said. Lindvall reenacting a catwalk moment, or direct and understandable. He focused While Lotan’s lineups are typically full Coco Rocha twirling up out of her dinner the palette — pink, black, white, red and of tomboyish, borrowed-from-the-boys seat to let you inspect the details of her bright blue — on graphic monochromes, stuff — as in her signature military jackets metallic lapel? and anchored the aesthetic in key sporty — her choice of fabrics for fall dictated a Studenberg said they aimed for a “glam- items: oversize puffers, big faux-fur coats, new, more glamorous mood. There were grunge” vibe. Added Targon: “It was about T-shirts, polos and baseball caps, many of faux furs rendered into cropped, chubby mixing these rich things with flannel.... them dashed up with his panda logo and jackets, as well as languid slipdresses in How do we capture this moment that’s signature ruffled trims. It’s smart for him silk and velvet. Proportions skewed longer both luxe and street and edge it all out?” to clarify his language. Though early to the and leaner this season with cinched waists; One model worked the room in a plaid street party, Formichetti has been swept a gray suit with a single-button blazer and bra with matching trousers and an oversize up in the tide of designers — mass to lux- roomy trousers was a standout. Her crisp flannel to style on top. “She’s giving us ‘My ury — desperate to commodify the look. cotton shirting, done in solids and stripes, So-Called Life’ vibes,” Studenberg said. “We have been going different direc- took on a more feminine, kimono-sleeve Elsewhere, of a knit body-con dress, he tions in past seasons, and we want to silhouette, and many of her looks, includ- quipped, “That’s gonna be $495 and she’s kind of regroup and make it tight — pure ing a black quilted nylon jacket, also came making it look like $2,500.” There were colors, sportswear, streetwear and some with waist-belts. “I was always a tomboy, Tory Burch cashmere bombers, metallic striped track- dresses and feminine silhouettes all and now I’m going full-blown woman,”

ae, Kelly Taub and Giovanni Giannoni and Giovanni Taub Kelly B ae, Jimmy Lovekin, Stephen by Photographs suits, “psychedelic tiger”-printed sweats, mixed up,” said Formichetti, noting that Lotan said. — K.G. 14 february 17, 2017

Rebecca Taylor Lisa Perry Maki Oh Zoë Jordan Fall Collections 2017

playfully modern construction. She’s of subversion. — Andrew Shang Rebecca Taylor Lisa Perry focused on creating a narrative of identity Rebecca Taylor explored an “athletic Art always informs Lisa Perry’s collection and culture through her clothes, this sea- moment” for fall, blurring the lines of — after all, the designer grew up surrounded son inspired by the Nigerian working-class Zoë Jordan dressy and casual in a chic, varied lineup. by it at her mother’s gallery. This time, Joan girl going out at night for a casual encoun- Zoë Jordan looked to Drew Barrymore and “I love the idea of wearing a sweatshirt Miró had the honors. “I went to the south ter. In a display of eclectic confidence, the the cast of “My So-Called Life” as her muses, with a ballgown skirt,” she said. “It’s of France and there you can really get a feel presentation, cast entirely with women of aiming to fuse grunge with a feminine spirit really important that people are dressing of this whole aesthetic,” she explained. The color, featured lively prints and quirky bits. in her latest collection of playful knits, high and low; always with that mix.” result was an optimistic, colorful lineup Osakwe’s reimagination of night-time relaxed suiting and outerwear. Elements of Taylor delivered tons of pieces for with some noteworthy pieces, such as a wanderings is more chic than you might distressing drove home the Nineties slacker her girl to play with, from floral-printed Miró motif on a silk jacquard that came on imagine; you won’t find a “booty-call aesthetic: cashmere and wool sweaters fea- hoodies and smocked-waisted velvet trou- dresses and a velvet pajama set as well as on dress,” as the designer put it. She’s casual tured generous cutouts and were bleached sers to a pink metallic leather miniskirt. an elegant coat — “perfect over black pants and cool with hints of glam, taking public and tie-dyed for a sun-faded look. Victoriana is a frequent touchstone for and top, for Art Basel,” she said. But it was a transportation in Nigeria (which is evidently Other looks didn’t play into the grunge the label, and it turned up here in flouncy black short crepe dress with a pink mara- uncommon), roughing it to get to her lover. theme — as in oversize sweaters artfully ruffled blouses — a staple in Taylor’s bou-feather hem that she also offered in a Silhouettes, therefore, assumed elements decorated with fringe, or mesh knit hoodies, collections — as well as in a high-necked, coat version with the feathers on the sleeves of the hard and soft. Pops of bright yellow which read more street — but were just floral-printed dress with puff sleeves. and in allover marabou in different tones referencing bus colors were splashed atop as cool and covetable. Ditto to Jordan’s During a walk-through, the designer of pink that evoked the most festive tone. long-sleeved tops with stitched slogans and cashmere wool tracksuits, a luxe take on the noted that she wanted her women to feel “Now of all times is a great time to have a traditional Nigerian prints, hand-painted ath-leisure trend pervading the runways, powerful as well as beautiful. A few dif- happy collection,” she said. — Mayte Allende and hand-dyed with indigo to mimic which she styled as matching sets or with ferent takes on suiting — one in black pin- curving roads. Elements of seduction tailored blazers for a touch more polish. A stripes with ruffled trousers, and another were incorporated via transparency and bleached Mongolian fur-accented bomber version done in navy corduroy with pale Maki Oh lingerie-inspired garters. Wrapping and paired with fluid silk pale-pink cargo blue florals — should serve her customer Designer Maki Osakwe’s design ethos ties referenced traditional clothing, and trousers, meanwhile, conveyed off-duty well. — Kristi Garced fuses traditional African techniques with punched-out holes provided a quirky sense elegance. — K.G.

people skilled to work with the stone, to gular pendant with green rutile and Easter Island create a centerpiece of this collection, diamonds and a linear hoop earring in an 18-karat white gold diamond pavè oxidized white gold with moss agate Treasure Hunt ring with Scandinavian meteorite and and diamonds. the rare gemstone. Pèan learns about more than just Jewelry designer Monique Pèan has The designer also looked at the the local gemstones in each locale, always used her travels to far-flung, structures she saw along the way, often meeting with glaciologists, remote places on the planet to inspire such as the amazing marble caves marine biologists, scientists and locals her fine jewelry collections, which in Patagonia and the Moai on Easter to get to know the specific environ- has also led to deep concerns about Island that the local people use as ref- mental concerns of the places she sustainability and the environment. In uge from storms. The former became a visits. Recalling a lunch she and her fact, Pèan has built several clean-wa- linear gold pendant with a plume agate assistant had on a glacier, she learned ter wells in communities affected by stone, and the latter inspired long of its diminishing size, something she jewelry production. It adds a hefty cylindrical shapes with pointed edges has witnessed a lot in the last 10 years. dose of authenticity to her modern for a canoe shape that resembled the And global warming has affected yet organic designs. For her new Tarai ancient structures. These became a many of the people she works with. collection shown at Momofuku Ko, she torque-style ring with the canoe-shape "The Shishmaref people of Alaska traveled to Chile, where she explored on each side of the band as well as have declared a state of emergency Easter Island and Patagonia, among pair of "front-back" earrings. The as their homes are going underwater," other places. Moai structures, which boast a Stone- she said. "Multiple species will cease On Easter Island, she discovered a henge-like mystique, also influenced a to exist in the next 10 years. To hear native stone, cosmic obsidian, which is tiered motif on pendants and earrings the scientists show you the facts, obert A ltman found on the ground so there's no need that suspended gemstones within the it's shocking to hear those who deny to mine it. Pèan worked with the local framework of the jewelry. The result global warming." indigenous artisans, who are the only gave an open airy effect to a trian- — Roxanne Robinson Oh photograph by R by Oh photograph

february 17, 2017 17

Digital Download

business Truth or Dare: Would Amazon Buy Macy’s? ● Experts are doubtful that the Amazon has built a massive fulfillment operation to get heritage department store shoppers goods quickly. has found a suitor in the e-commerce leader.

By Maghan McDowell

Wall Street loves to pit Amazon against legacy retailers, but the most recent buzz has the two sides cozying up, with the web giant touted as a potential suitor for Macy’s Inc. It’s a crazy “if,” but as far-fetched as that might seem, it’s still too sexy a notion to ignore. Financial firm Cowen & Co. argued that although a deal is unlikely, a combination could benefit both parties. Amazon could boost Macy’s online and mobile offer- ings, lend distribution and supply chain expertise, attract Millennial customers and employ its data to inform inventory decisions. Meanwhile, Macy’s could help Amazon gain access to important apparel brands and potentially speed its customer deliveries. “The partnership would be tremendous, as Amazon could gain the traffic of loyal department store shoppers, acquire phys- ical customers as the cost of acquisition goes up incrementally online and utilize Macy’s real estate assets to strategically showcase an array and option of products and sectors,” said Oliver Chen, a Cowen retail analyst. “Amazon needs better brands, a more curated assortment, a phys- Macy’s, which has more than 700 stores. under their existing branding, à la Zappos, view shopping in fashion, which tends to ical place to return items, and customers But Mulpuru said that it didn’t seem which the web giant bought in 2009. be more focused on discovery than the could use help with ensuring fit — Macy’s Macy’s was keen to sell and added that, Mortimer Singer, president and ceo of “get-in-get-out” mindset that characterizes would also give Amazon greater credibility “I honestly don’t know why any Amazon Marvin Traub Associates, said a market- the digital era. in curation and fashion authority.” investors would be excited about it.” place would help Amazon build both “The Internet has become a very direct Whatever case could be made, many Although Amazon makes waves with the flexibility and scale. medium because it is so measurable, but experts eye such postulations as more smallest move, its push into physical stores “Think of Kering, which has many just because you can infinitely measure fantasy than fact. It’s just not Amazon’s has been slow. brands,” he said. “When Gucci isn’t doing programmatic advertising returns doesn’t style, they say. Mabel McLean, director of Amazon IQ well, or YSL isn’t doing well, they hedge mean that you shouldn’t also emotionally As the e-tailer enters physical retail, it at research firm L2, noted the e-tailer’s each other. It can be all things to every- connect with people,” he said. is rethinking all aspects of what a store retail footprint is “extremely limited.” In body if you have a different mask to the The apparel created by the Evrything looks like and it hasn’t typically been two years, it’s opened a few bookstores, customers.” and Avery Dennison partnership has Amazon’s approach to make large acquisi- just more than 30 mall kiosks and has 10 But if Amazon did acquire Macy’s, what technology that can link to a customer’s tions, said Ed Yruma, managing director, planned “click-and-collect” locations. The would that look like? The best bet is: like smartphone to automate a loyalty rewards equity research analyst at KeyBanc Capi- most recent concept is a Seattle conve- nothing the market has seen from Amazon program, power product reordering in the tal Markets. nience store pilot called Amazon Go, before. vein of the Amazon Dash button, make “Why would they buy a retailer that has which mimics Amazon’s digital efficiency “They have a lot of department store related product recommendations and too much space?” Yruma said. “Amazon by eliminating the checkout process. retail space that is completely out of line can allow for automated checkout like that could get real estate in any prime center. I McClean argued that if physical retail with the type of concept stores they have being piloted in the Rebecca Minkoff store don’t see it.” Even so, the analyst did offer locations were a more viable concept for been piloting in the market,” said L2’s in New York’s SoHo. that an apparel component for Amazon’s Amazon, there would be more of them McLean. “Even the format of Macy’s is at Hobsbawm said this technology is physical retail aspirations is “inevitable.” by now. odds for what would make sense.” possible now and thinks it should be more If Amazon founder Jeff Bezos did want to Buying a legacy retailer such as Macy’s And McClean said the concept of Ama- widespread. It could be a way for Amazon buy Macy’s, he could look across the Pacific would mean a new set of operational zon Go wouldn’t really work in fashion. to translate its approach into apparel. and learn from online competitor Alibaba, responsibilities that are “completely “I don’t know how much scale there For now, any moves by Amazon, phys- which is working to take private China’s outside of Amazon’s core competencies,” is to gain in revolutionizing the checkout ical or otherwise, are exciting, simply 29-door Intime department store chain. she said. experience in apparel,” she said. “Maybe because it’s become such a powerful com- Daniel Zhang, chief executive officer Amazon could buy real estate without if you have an expedited checkout, but is merce machine that has managed to make of Alibaba Group, has noted: “We don’t acquiring a preexisting entity and it’s that what makes or breaks the experience, ideas like delivery drones and “dash” divide the world into real or virtual econ- worth noting that the company’s rumored from a consumer perspective?” buttons a reality. Whether it can or would omies; only the old and the new. Those takeovers of Radio Shack and Sports Amazon is known for efficiency and turn Macy’s into a hyper-efficient conver- who cling onto the old ways of retailing Authority never came to fruition. self-service, but does that translate into the sion machine remains to be seen. will be disrupted, and brick-and-mortar “It boils down to how valuable you think fashion space? “Amazon has shown again and again businesses will be able to create value for the Macy’s brand is,” McLean said. “Where Amazon goes next is probably they can do amazing things, and their consumers if they are integrated with the Although it would acquire Macy’s all about taking the friction out of com- content business is a great example,” said power of mobile reach, real-time con- vendor relationships, she noted: “It’s not merce — that is their number-one thing,” Hobsbawm, who pointed out that the sumer insights and technology capability like they are acquiring a relationship with said Andy Hobsbawm, cofounder and chief company’s TV series offering might have to improve operating efficiency.” LVMH. It’s mid- to low-market clothing marketing officer of Evrything, which is an originally faced the same levels of doubt Shoptalk chief retail strategist Sucharita lines that are already willing to distribute Internet of Things smart products platform from the traditional film industry. Mulpuru said that parallels could be possi- through Amazon.” that recently linked with Avery Dennison “I wouldn’t put it past what they can do, ble if Amazon were to acquire Macy’s. If Amazon is interested in those loftier to make apparel. “Their definition of but what do they want to do?” he said. “I “Most of these types of investments brands, it could make sense for them to success is ‘more things in the order basket don’t think they are interested in the expe- could be about testing and learning,” she acquire luxury marketplaces — like a Lyst that convert.’” rience and the brand, other than, ‘Does it

Photograph by RE X/Shutterstock by Photograph said, although Intime is much smaller than or a Farfetch — but keep them operating This ethos is at odds with how many help me sell more stuff?’” 18 february 17, 2017

business invested really gives one pause when you start thinking about making capital investments which drives productivity and growth, and when you talk about acqui- PVH’s Emanuel Chirico sitions,” he said. “There are some real opportunities out there today given where the economy is, but I find myself [thinking] constantly that I’m not sure about what the tax situation is going to be and that is going Talks Border Tax, Trade to have an impact if I decide to finance this major $5 billion acquisition with $2.5 ● Chirico said a border tax Emanuel Chirico Corp., had with Trump on Wednesday billion of debt. You want to be bold, you on imports will create where they raised their concerns about a want to move but at the same time when border tax. you don’t know where the pieces are going uncertainty and potentially Chirico outlined how a proposed border to fall at the end of the day, it’s tough to be impact investments. tax on imports could potentially impact bold.” PVH’s existing and future investments. Mark Weinberger, global chairman and By Kristi Ellis “We made a decision just 12 months ago ceo of EY, said there will need to be a tran- to build a factory, a manufacturing base sition time period for businesses facing WASHINGTON — Emanuel Chirico, in Ethiopia — a textile mill, vertical inte- major tax reform. chairman and chief executive officer gration — getting all of the support from “The reality is companies can’t redo of PVH Corp., who participated on a Washington, really incentivizing us to do their supply chains overnight to deal with a panel addressing tax reform issues in this with this idea of being duty-free [for lot of change so there is going to have to be the nation’s capital on Thursday, said a the goods] we were bringing in,” Chirico some negotiation about how to implement Congressional proposal to impose a border told the audience. “We’ve invested tens any of these [tax] changes,” Weinberger tax on imports has created volatility and of millions of dollars and now we are said. uncertainty and has real implications on turning around and it’s going to be a 20 On U.S. manufacturing versus global future investment decisions. percent border tax after I was arm twisted manufacturing, Chirico said he doesn’t see Chirico also cautioned that putting all the way through to say it will be great companies moving back en masse to the up a “wall” to trade is not the answer to if the second largest apparel company in U.S. He said half of PVH’s employee base future growth and declared that the “ship the world based in the United States will is in the U.S., with those jobs focused on has sailed” on apparel manufacturing in take a leadership position on this?” product development, sourcing, merchan- the U.S., which he does not believe will It would essentially tax the value of dising, marketing and design. return on a large scale. He didn’t comment imports but not the value of exports. Weinberger noted that even if the U.S. on textile production, which has seen a Currently, companies that import prod- increases its manufacturing base, there revival in areas such as yarns and knitwear. ucts can deduct the cost of the product, won’t necessarily be a corresponding President Trump has outlined a broad including materials and labor costs, when increase in jobs, due to automation. framework for revitalizing American corporate taxes to 20 percent from the determining income taxes, according to Chirico said global trade without barri- manufacturing and bringing jobs and current 35 percent and pay for it in part by industry officials. However, under the ers is “critical for us.” companies back to the U.S., proposing a concept known as the border “adjust- House GOP proposal, companies would “We ship goods in our supply chain both incentives and penalties to carry out ment” tax (BAT). not be allowed to deduct any of those costs around the world and the only place we his plan. Trump supports a major overhaul Chirico participated on a panel at the on imported products. U.S. companies have a problem bringing goods into is and reform of the U.S. tax code, simplify- Tax Council Policy Institute’s annual would be able to continue to deduct the the country of China,” he added. “The ing and lowering the corporate tax rate, as symposium at a time when the BAT is a cost of their products and would only be inspections are ridiculous. It is all based well as that for families and individuals. lightning rod on Capitol Hill. The sympo- taxed on the profit. on their trying to make the homegrown At the same time, House Republicans sium came on the heels of a meeting that “That kind of volatility, and I’m sure it products have an advantage. So, yes, there are also crafting legislation based on a a group of retail ceo’s, including those [the Ethiopian factory] will still be a great are issues that need to be addressed, but blueprint they released last year to lower from Gap Inc, J.C. Penney Co. and Target investment, with all of that capital being putting up a wall is not the answer.”

business Alberto Baldan Alberto Baldan Exits La Rinascente

● Pierluigi Cocchini will succeed vice chairman, in 2005, “contributing to the creation and execution of the as chief executive officer. successful business plan. Over the last 10 By Luisa Zargani years, he made a crucial role in ensuring the delivery of continuous growth in sales MILAN — Alberto Baldan has resigned as and profit.” chief executive officer of La Rinascente Tos Chirathivat, ceo of parent company after 10 years at the helm of the Italian Central Group of Thailand, described department store chain. He will be suc- Cocchini and Della Valle as “two proven ceeded by Pierluigi Cocchini, previously leaders” who, with Radice, will “take sales director of the group. Baldan has forward our expanding European activi- agreed to remain in his position until the ties. We are grateful to Alberto for having end of June and to oversee the celebration created a solid foundation for our business of the 100th anniversary of La Rinascente. in Europe and wish him all the best for his Cocchini joined La Rinascente in 2008 future assignments.” and “substantially contributed to the Thailand-based Central Retail Corp. took successful repositioning strategy of the control of the Italian department store company. His popularity and fairness chain in May 2011, with plans to globally among employees will facilitate and drive expand the chain. graduating in economics and business in the World” at the Global Department momentum in his new role,” the company In 2012, the retailer’s then-ceo Radice, from ‘Cà Foscari’ University, Baldan in Store Summit, organized by the Intercon- said. In the short-term, Cocchini is tasked who had been spearheading the stores’ 1987 started his retail career in Gruppo tinental Group of Department Stores. with the opening of the new La Rinascente turnaround, was promoted to vice chair- PAM, working at Hypermarkets Man- In 2013, the Italian retailer acquired the flagship in Rome in the fall. man, and put in charge of the international agement Control. In 1989, he joined the Illum store in Copenhagen and, two years Monica Marsilli will takeover as buying development of luxury department stores French multinational company Promodes, later, a 50.1 percent stake in KaDeWe director and Stefano Della Valle, cur- under the Central Retail umbrella. Radice, leaving in 1996 for then-Gruppo Rina- Group, the three-door premium depart- rently chief financial officer, will assume who had joined the Italian chain in 2006, scente — Auchan. From 2003 to October ment store group that was spun off from responsibilities as chief operating officer is also known for rejuvenating the British 2007 he was ceo of Conforama Italia, the the Karstadt Department Store chain the of all Central Group Businesses in Europe. department store Selfridges. Italian branch of PPR’s Conforama. Bal- previous fall. Radice also took on the role Della Valle has been with the company Baldan, previously La Rinascente’s dan became general director of La Rina- of vice chairman of Illum and KaDeWe. since the beginning of the rejuvenation managing director, became ceo in the scente in 2007. In 2016, La Rinascente The group’s jewel in the crown in Italy is

project initiated by Vittorio Radice, now wake of Radice’s promotion. After was named “The Best Department Store Milan’s Piazza Duomo flagship. B eck Peccoz Marco B aldan by Media/ RE X/Shutterstock; Penske by Chirico photograph february 17, 2017 19

beauty X Out Names Cameron Dallas Its New Face ● The 22-year-old social media Cameron Dallas star will be seen in digital for X Out. and television spots for the one-step acne-fighting brand starting this month.

By Rachel Brown

Ever since social media sensation Cameron Dallas tried Proactiv in his late teens, he dreamed of being a spokesman for the brand or products related to it. In fact, when he signed with William Morris Endeavor in 2014, he told his agents to make it happen, and they have done that. Dallas is the newest face of X Out, Proac- tiv’s younger sibling that simplifies fighting pimples to one step, a Wash-In Treatment. The 22-year-old will be seen in digital spots for X Out running across various platforms, including YouTube, Instagram and Facebook, and television infomercials starting this month. “I am really precise about who I want to work with and, no matter the timeline, I push to get what I think would be cool. I’ve waited years for this, and it’s finally happen- ing. I’m stoked,” said Dallas. “I don’t really like to promote anything, but I will promote things I believe in and things that work. I have used Proactiv and I use X Out, and they are the only things that work for me.” Kimber Maderazzo, executive vice president of brand and product marketing at The Proactiv Co., described Dallas as the “total package of what we could wish for. He’s an X Out user. He is very strong at I had no luck,” he recalled. “A fan gave me Tinashe. Guthy-Renker often gravitated “Social media and traditional media telling stories to his large fan base, and his Proactiv, and it cleared my skin, but there to musicians for spokespeople because exist side by side and, the more time goes stories are so authentic.” She added, “He were too many steps. I lose everything, their reach crosses national boundaries, by, they are merging together. In a couple struggles with acne and really anybody and I lost one of the products. My acne and Dallas is similarly known beyond U.S. of years, social media people will be who represents X Out and Proactiv should started to come back. Then, I learned they borders. “Cameron is a global celebrity considered real celebrities just as much as experience the struggles our consumers do did X Out. It’s one step, and it worked.” and one of the things people tend to forget regular celebrities are today,” said Dallas. and be able to tell them how the product Prior to the company joining forces is that social channels are global,” said “I want to bridge the gap between social works for acne.” with Nestlé Skin Health SA last year to Maderazzo. “He does one post on Insta- media and traditional media. I feel like we A follower initially introduced Dallas to create The Proactiv Co., Guthy-Renker gram, and it is global instantly.” are going to become a part of the tradi- Proactiv, which is perhaps not surprising launched X Out in 2012 to offer teens an Dallas is pushing social media stardom tional space.” given that his follower counts amount acne remedy they could stick to rather into arenas historically reserved for tradi- Dallas is pursuing Hollywood projects, to 18.1 million on Instagram, 3.7 million than convincing them to continually apply tional stardom. His 10-episode Netflix real- and is open to considering further fashion on Facebook, 9.8 million on Twitter and the three main products in Proactiv’s acne ity series “Chasing Cameron” premiered and beauty deals. His recent experiences nearly 5.5 million on YouTube, where Dal- treatment regimen or more. “The nature on Dec. 27, and he played a troublemaker behind the camera have been encouraging. las has racked up almost 263 million views. of teens is that they don’t want to use five expelled from school in the aptly titled “The Netflix show has been really success- Dallas’ social media fame was cemented or six products on their face,” said Mader- “Expelled,” a scripted feature that was ful and really great, and I had a great time on Vine, a Twitter offshoot that’s now a azzo. Dallas concurred. “I use X Out twice reportedly the second most-downloaded doing it,” said Dallas. “I learned a lot about camera app, with six-second comedy vid- a day. I use it in the morning and then movie on iTunes in 2014. Fashion brands myself from it. I got to see on camera how eos he started producing in 2012. once at night, and that’s it,” he said. “It have also embraced Dallas. He was cou- I react and handle certain situations, and “When I got out of high school, I started works for me because I don’t have to do a pled with model Stella Lucia in a cam- areas I need to improve. I learned that breaking out. I tried everything from A to million things for my face.” paign for Calvin Klein’s CK Jeans capsule maybe I cuss too much. I need to hang Z as far as seeing doctors and getting pre- Preceding Dallas, X Out’s celebrity collection and walked in Dolce & Gabba- around my mom [Gina] so she can work scriptions. I even did home remedies, and endorser roster included Zendaya and na’s fall men’s runway show. me into shape.”

business WWD the company saw “big potential” in women’s ready-to-wear and accesso- ries, the latter category accounting for less than 30 percent of sales, the biggest Maison Margiela Taps New CEO chunk being footwear. It also saw scope to expand its retail footprint as it was under- ● The Paris-based brand will become ceo for the Greater China region, Maison Margiela has been on an exposed in some markets. name former Diesel executive overseeing all of OTB’s companies present expansion path since owner Renzo Rosso Meanwhile, fascination with the in the region: Diesel, Maison Margiela, rescued John Galliano from fashion limbo Margiela brand continues unabated. The Riccardo Bellini as chief Marni and Staff International, she added. and appointed him as creative director label’s notoriously low-profile founder has executive officer, sources said. Pungetti has been at the manage- in 2014. been working with Olivier Saillard, director ment helm of Margiela since 2002, and Rosso’s OTB bought its majority stake of the Palais Galliera fashion museum in By WWD Staff between 2011 and 2015 also held the in Margiela in 2002, seen then as an odd Paris, on a retrospective that is slated to ceo title at Viktor & Rolf. His resume fashion coupling. And while the hubbub bow next year. PARIS — Maison Margiela is switching up also includes stints at Diesel in Italy and around Margiela died down since the Meanwhile, Rotterdam-based produc- its executive ranks. France, and at Unilever. founder made his exit in 2009 after cele- tion company Mint Film Office is working The Paris-based brand is to name Diesel Bellini joined Diesel in 2007 and his brating the brand’s 20th anniversary, the on a documentary titled “We Margiela” executive Riccardo Bellini as chief execu- most recent post was executive vice company continued to make progress. that will feature interviews with cofounder tive officer, succeeding Giovanni Pungetti, president of branding at Diesel and Diesel In 2014, it generated consolidated rev- Jenny Meirens and is scheduled to be a spokeswoman for Margiela parent OTB Black Gold and chief marketing officer at enues of about 100 million euros, or $133 released this year. In a summary on the confirmed. Diesel, according to his LinkedIn profile. million at average exchange, according to movie’s web site, wemargiela.com, the Meanwhile Pungetti, one of the most He previously worked at Procter & Gamble the last available figures. filmmakers said Meirens is no longer in

Dallas photograph by Johnny B uzzerio Johnny by Dallas photograph senior executives in the Italian group, is to for a decade. In an interview in 2015, Pungetti told contact with Margiela. 20 february 17, 2017

business NPD Tracks L&T-Macy’s Shopper Overlap

● A Macy’s HMC won’t cannibalize department store. its Lord & Taylor and Saks Fifth Avenue stores by buying Macy’s.

By David Moin

There’s plenty of logic to a Hudson’s Bay Co.-Macy’s Inc. deal, based on customer transaction data from the NPD Group. “When you look at this potential deal, there is opportunity for the Hudson’s Bay group to get some of the Macy’s customers to come over into their portfolio,” Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst for The NPD Group, told WWD. “The Hudson’s Bay Co. would not be cannibalizing their own business by buying this business.” NPD Group’s Checkout Tracking unit examined purchase data at the receipt level to form an analysis of customer over- lap. Officials at NPD indicate that while there are “obvious similarities” among the items sold at Macy’s and Hudson’s Bay’s Lord & Taylor and Saks Fifth Avenue divisions, there are also “clear differences among their customers.” According to NPD officials, the data held some surprises about overlap among apparel buyers at Macy’s, Lord & Taylor and Saks. Among the key findings: Many Saks shoppers also head to separate division. “You could argue a case less with sportswear overall, has a mixed Customers who buy apparel at Macy’s Macy’s to supplement apparel. Regular for either,” said Cohen. “Lord & Taylor and performance in men’s wear, and doesn’t tend to be a fairly loyal group. They give Saks shoppers tend to spend 6 percent Macy’s certainly could continue to operate do enough volume in footwear. a full 16 percent of their apparel share of of their apparel wallet at Saks. But those separately on their own, but each have to At Macy’s, the biggest challenge is man- wallet to the chain. same shoppers also spend 6 percent of have their own personalities. The key is how aging a high number of locations, fighting But those same people tend not to buy their apparel wallet at Macy’s. are going to be able to create uniqueness. In off competition at the high and low ends clothes at Lord & Taylor and Saks Fifth There are several reasons why Hudson’s today’s environment, operating department of the business. However, the depart- Avenue, as the data shows that Macy’s Bay Co. would want to take over Macy’s, stores is really tricky. Which department ment store has “great consistency, the apparel buyers give just 1 percent of their including opportunities to pick up some store does well? They have to change.” consumer knows what exactly to expect, apparel share of wallet to Lord & Taylor, valuable flagship real estate and create Despite its recent sluggish perfor- there’s a wide gamut of customers and the and even less to Saks. synergies for cost savings. Yet as NPD mance, Cohen said Lord & Taylor company has done a good job of increas- Lord & Taylor apparel buyers, by con- suggests, there’s also the opportunity “for maintains “a very loyal customer base, ing its omnichannel presence. There is a trast, are about as fond of that chain as the holding company to grab back a con- and strength in women’s business attire, focus on making the product available,” they are of rival Macy’s. Of those shop- siderable percentage of the apparel sales special event dressing, dresses and Cohen said, though he believes “a strong ping Lord & Taylor regularly for apparel, it loses to Macy’s.” appealing to mature customers, while just dialogue” with the customers preceding L&T gets an 11 percent share of wallet, Talks between Hudson’s Bay and Macy’s starting to lure younger customers, 21- to and following the transaction is lacking. but those same shoppers are providing are ongoing. If a deal is struck, the sur- 35-year-olds, to the store. “They also do He believes Macy’s is strongest in men’s, Macy’s with a 10 percent share of their viving company could decide to fold L&T a very good job of creating exclusives juniors, home and private label. Sports- apparel wallet. into Macy’s or continue to operate it as a with smaller boutique brands.” L&T does wear, overall, is said to be weak.

fashion of design, Midyette noted. In addition, all chain make the brand a natural for kicking the brands are e-commerce based. off Supima’s ad campaign,” Midyette “They all have a lot of appeal to the said. “Everlane brings the highest level of Supima Creates ‘Everyday Millennial generation,” Midyette said. passion and innovation to their products, “They tell their story on their web sites materials and design.” and Supima is part of it.” He noted that Stance has “reimagined Reimagined’ Ad Campaign Everlane is the first brand from the cam- socks” in a variety of designs, 3x1 has paign to be featured. taken an innovative approach to puting the ● The campaign was shot by and attention to detail,” Midyette said. “Everlane’s simple, clean design aes- supply chain on full display, and Casper “Most have used Supima since their thetic, longtime use of Supima and focus has taken a fresh approach to marketing Scheltens & Abbenes under inception and make it a core part of their on ‘radical transparency’ of their supply and its mattresses and sheets. the direction of creative value offering.” agency Graj + Gustavsen. The theme for the campaign is “Every- day Reimagined” and was shot by fine arts By Arthur Friedman photographers Scheltens & Abbenes under the direction of New York-based creative Supima’s new ad campaign offers a tight agency Graj + Gustavsen. focus on the high-grade cotton through This campaign is the second that G+G still-life images with four brands — Ever- has produced for Supima and is a fol- lane, 3x1, Stance and Casper. low-up to the successful “Chosen By” The print campaign, which bows in this campaign that featured longtime brands Sunday’s issue of the New York Times’ T partners. Women’s Fashion Magazine, will appear “We really wanted to focus on product three more times in T issues through April. in this campaign,” Midyette said. “We A / RE X/Shutterstock Buxton Midyette, vice president of mar- didn’t want to be distracted by models. keting and promotion at Supima, which They created images that convey the prod- represents U.S. growers of pima cotton, uct in a way it hadn’t been. This is a special said the brands selected for the campaign campaign for us, with a focus on quality “reinvent and elevate everyday product.” and seeing the product.” “These are brands that have been He said the brands, while in different quickly embraced by a new generation of markets have several things in common — A Supima consumers because they value authentic- they represent quality, durability, attention campaign image with Stance socks. ity in origin, transparency in production to detail, transparency and high standards CJ Gunther/ E P by photograph Macy’s february 17, 2017 21

Ellen von Unwerth on New Coffee-table Book, ‘Heimat’ The German photographer goes to Bavaria for a sexy series of photos that will make its debut at Taschen’s Los Angeles gallery during Oscar weekend.

“Freshly Bloomed,” 2015 by “The Big Catch” by Ellen von Unwerth. Ellen von Unwerth. For her latest project, the as they frolic through the story- lived in Bavaria from about age 10 loosely follows the four seasons with a bit of a mischievous streak, The art editions of the book are coffee-table book “Heimat,” to book-like countryside. to 16 and when I went back, it was on a farm. In her version, the girls those “who have a bit of actor in also bound in her colorful textiles. be published by Taschen on April Shot in von Unwerth’s cheeky, incredible to see all these people did most of the manual labor as them,” and ample curves. The images will be on exhibit 1, Ellen von Unwerth mined her sensual style, it’s a visual de- who still dress in dirndls and well as the cooking, while local The wardrobe, styled by former at Taschen’s Los Angeles gallery German roots. Described as “an light that is also personal. The lederhosen. I thought it would be men are mostly props. German Vogue staffer Susanne at 8070 Beverly Boulevard begin- enchanted tour around Bavaria,” title refers to the German term fun to do a book in my way.” “The weather didn’t always co- Kölmel, consisted mostly of vintage ning Feb. 25. Of course, there’s a the 454-page tome features a describing a person's relationship Her way parodies the clichés operate, but I always go with the and new dirndls by Bavarian private opening the night before, cadre of curvy, creamy-skinned to a physical and social place. “It’s — Bavarians as cow-milking, flow — that’s part of the fun,” she designers, in particular Mu- timed to Oscars weekend. models spilling out of their dirndls like going back in time,” she said. “I pretzel-munching jolly folk — as it said. Von Unwerth cast models nich-based designer Lola Paltinger. — Marcy Medina Lights, Camera, Python: Natasha Bassett on Becoming Britney Spears The actress talks playing one of pop music’s most iconic stars in Lifetime’s “Britney Ever After.”

Natasha Bassett had no idea Natasha Bassett she enjoys it. I hear she’s a fan of what she was getting herself into Lifetime." when she auditioned for "Britney Filming "Britney Ever After" Ever After." In fact, she didn't even taught Bassett a great deal about know it was about Britney Spears. just how much of a hand Spears "They didn’t give me a script had in her own creative direction. and her name was Jenny Jean," It also gave her a newfound ap- Bassett said over the phone. "For preciation for Spears' epic python some reason, I thought it was set moment at the 2001 MTV Video in the Fifties." She was only about Music Awards. After a period of half a century off — no biggie. denial that she would actually Born in Sydney, Bassett have to encounter a python for caught the acting bug when she the Lifetime movie, Bassett took was 13 years old. She partici- on the beast. pated in theater productions "There were no stunts, no throughout high school and special effects — just me and moved to New York at 19, eager to a massive python," she said of pursue a career in the field. After filming that particular scene. "I a year in the city, she relocated to had the producers off-camera try Los Angeles, where she's lived for to distract me with off-topic, ran- the past three years. dom questions, trying to distract A still from The "Britney" opportunity me from this seven-foot python Lifetime’s came to Bassett just two days wrapped around my shoulders." “Britney Ever before she was meant to travel to Since filming finished, After.” London. Less than an hour after Bassett has been spending completing the audition, she was She'd "obsess over them," study- they were unveiled, and Spears' her time completing a Fifties checking in at the airport when ing Spears' disposition and facial team later revealed that the romance novel. "It's about a she got a call from her agent. "He movements and keeping inter- singer did not approve of the girl who makes her way from said, ‘You may not be able to get views on repeat on her phone. movie altogether. Despite these Mississippi to Hollywood and on the plane! Just hold up!’ So I "Every second I wasn't rehearsing reactions, the "Britney" crew it becomes quite dark when an sit around awkwardly at check-in, or filming, I was listening to her," stayed positive. estranged half-sister tracks her fter” still copyright 2017 Jenna B erman / Lifetime copyright fter” still just waiting to find out," she said. she said. And of course, she had "It is really difficult to play down and insinuates herself "I ended up being able to go for to master the accent. someone who’s still with us," into this actress’ life to seek her a shortened trip, and a few days "As soon as I found out [I got Bassett said. "It’s a huge re- own revenge," she said. "I was later, my agent called back and the part], I went straight into sponsibility, which is exciting working on the novel before I told me I’d been offered the role accent," Bassett explained. "I and nerve-racking at the same started working on the Britney and ‘by the way, it’s about Britney the singer's personal-turned-pub- led to those moments. Of course drove my mom and my friends time. But the film shines a really project, and Britney was born Spears!’" lic affairs, including her infamous it’s not easy, but she’s overcome crazy for weeks before I went to positive light on Britney and how in McComb, Mississippi, so that Playing a pop icon is no small 2007 meltdown and her whirlwind everything so beautifully, and is Vancouver, and stayed in accent not only is she one of the world’s was quite coincidental. My main task. Bassett grew up listening to marriage to Kevin Federline. now stronger as a result of what the whole time before I got back greatest entertainers, she’s a character’s from there, too." Spears; like any fan, she'd imagine "Those were were really pivotal she went through and you really on the plane to L.A." mom to two gorgeous boys, she Call it coincidence; call it fate. the hairbrush was her micro- moments in her life that played see that in the movie." As has been the case with has a residency in Vegas, and it Some things are just meant to be. phone and would put on shows out very publicly," Bassett said. She referred to biographies, previous Lifetime biopics, fans shines a light on all these positive "Britney Ever After" premieres in her bedroom to Spears' songs. "As I played her, I was just trying interviews and documentaries raised questions over the casting attributes to her personality. I on Lifetime on Feb. 18.

A E ver “ B ritney Michael B uckner; by portrait B assett But she didn't know much about to bring to life the emotions that to help her prepare for the role. choices of "Britney" shortly after can only hope she watches it and — Alexa Tietjen men’s wear MARCH 21 summit BROOKLYN PRESENTING SPONSOR • FIRST INSIGHT

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Fashion Scoops Paula Cademartori

tributed or didn’t want to worry other Awards retail accounts, Saks was left out of the party for so long. On Thursday, Change the chase finally ended with the The CFDA Fashion Awards, in opening of a 1,000-square-foot Prada partnership with Swarovski for the women’s shop at Saks’ Manhattan 16th year, will feature some changes flagship, bringing some extra cache this time. to the third floor and filling a big void This year there will be one in the merchandising. Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent “The new shop is one of the cornerstones of our newly-renovated that applies to women’s wear, men’s accessories wear and accessory design. The and reimagined designer third floor,” number of nominees will increase said Tracy Margolies, Saks’ chief to five. Previously, there were three merchant. “This is just the beginning emerging awards in women’s wear, of an expanded partnership with Paula men’s wear and accessory design, Prada this spring.” with three nominees for each. Nomi- No additional Prada women’s rtw nees must be American or U.S.-based shops at Saks stores have been Cademartori and have shown their collections for revealed. Saks did lay some ground- five or fewer years. work for a stronger collaboration In addition, the CFDA will introduce with Prada last year when a separate Prada shoe salon on the eighth floor, To Open the Swarovski Award for Positive Change, which recognizes an Ameri- with a made-to-order program and en- can individual in the fashion industry hanced marketing was installed at the who has made an impact on American Nadja flagship. Previously, Prada footwear Pop-up in communities and improves the welfare Swarovski was set alongside other designer of others through their resources and brands in a central part of the 10022- time. The honoree has also demon- The 2017 CFDA Fashion Awards on her phone from the top of the Shoe floor on eight, making for a Milan strated an ability to herald change in will take place at the Hammerstein staircase leading to the street. rather undistinguished presentation. the U.S. and to make a positive impact Ballroom on June 5. The nominees Before the show, guests filed into For the women’s rtw, the Prada ● The temporary shop will carry in such areas as civic responsibility, and honorees will be revealed on the Armory, which was bare except shop is strategically located near an exclusive selection of the philanthropy and sustainability. March 23. — LISA LOCKWOOD for two long rows of folding chairs the escalators, with ample space. Discussing the decision to have on each side of the narrow runway. The decor reflects Prada’s signa- brand’s handbags and shoes. one award for emerging talent, “You want to walk down the center, ture aesthetics seen in other luxury Steven Kolb, president and chief ex- BFFs or you’re going to have to climb over department stores and at the Prada By Alessandra Turra ecutive officer of the CFDA, said, “We Lil’ Kim and Marc Jacobs are close. the chairs,” the publicist flanking the stores — the black-and-white marble decided to focus on one award to The designer took the rapper as his entrance instructed. Not that anyone checkered floor, wide black marble better reflect the realities of fashion date to Fashion Group International’s had much attention to dodge; no gateways with a window in between, Paula Cademartori is opening her first and to strengthen the honor of this Night of Stars gala in 2004 and the photographers were allowed inside, the green canvas walls, and Osvaldo temporary store in Milan on Feb. 20. prestigious award.” Met Gala in 2005, a few charitable and the typical pre-show clamor Borsani’s green velvet chairs repro- “I’m very happy with this pop-up was absent. Not even a soundtrack duced exclusively for Prada. What’s Nadja Swarovski, member of the “Marc Jacobs ❤ Lil’ Kim” shirts were store, which represents my first foray into Swarovski executive board, added, played, and the wooden floor ampli- inconsistent is that the shop is not made in 2006 while she was serving the retail business,” said the Brazilian “We recognize that many emerging time, and the rest of the friendship fied the clicking of Emily Ratajkow- leased. Most Prada shops and other designers push boundaries across is history. ski’s towering platform boots (they designer shops such as Gucci and designer, who launched her namesake multiple categories, and this is a At his runway show on the last day were Marc, of course.) Dior are often leased. Officials from brand of eye-catching luxury bags in 2010. fantastic opportunity to spotlight of New York Fashion Week, Kim had a “If Marc calls, you show up,” re- Saks and Prada were not available “I’m proud it is located in Milan, which designers with multi-aceted visions different date accompanying her out marked Bethann Hardison. “He keeps Thursday to comment on the busi- is the city where everything started. It across women’s wear, men’s wear on the town: Marc Jacobs’ boyfriend us on our toes. First of all, he’s always ness model they agreed upon. represents a great step in our business and accessory design.” Char Defrancesco. Afterward, the pair so whimsically, beautifully creative, The women’s collection is dis- development.” and he’s like the last of the Mohicans played in light, clear acrylic glass On Friday, the 1,500-plus members emerged from the Armory’s Park Ave- The opening of the pop-up store marks of the 2017 CFDA Fashion Awards nue exit for the postshow presentation, at some of these things. I believe in cases and on steel/glass tables and the first initiative developed with Renzo Guild will receive an e-mail with a stopping to take selfies with each oth- shows, and he likes to put on a show.” acrylic glass tables. While there is ballot to nominate designers and er and the various fans in attendance. — KRISTEN TAUER some resortwear, the message is Rosso’s OTB group, which acquired the honorees for this year’s awards. While the designer had outlawed really about spring, with glam ostrich label last October. Besides the two Swarovski awards, social media during his silent showing, feathered silk pajamas, feathered “She really stole my attention when the other honors include Womens- the floodgate opened up postshow. Prada at Last trenches and dusters, and the “sporty she was on the stage at a fashion forum,” wear Designer of the Year, Menswear Kim, holding a single red rose, asked Through many years and several girl” leather jackets, all complement- Rosso said. “While she was speaking, I ed by the “plex ribbon” leather bags Designer of the Year, Accessories someone to take her photo in front of regime changes, Saks Fifth Avenue immediately went to her web site and I Designer of the Year, Geoffrey Beene the models lounging on chairs in front with wide straps, among Prada’s larg- has wooed Prada for its designer fell in love with the product. I love Paula’s Lifetime Achievement Award, Fashion of speakers blasting music, while a ready-to-wear floor. er investments and fun statements Icon and the International Award. blonde Katy Perry captured the action Whether Prada felt it was overdis- for the season. — DAVID MOIN positive attitude, the fact she is extremely versatile and that she’s able to take care of the different aspects of the business.” Located on Galleria del Toro, in the heart of Milan, the two-story shop was designed by architect Ferruccio Laviani to The Wall reflect the joyful, sophisticated aesthetic of Street Journal the label. “It’s a kind of magic place where people Memo Pad have to feel comfortable,” Cademartori said. The store will feature a combination of materials, including brass and velvet, topics. While there have been some as well as a carpeting featuring an intarsia Less Focus recent changes, the Life & Arts sec- tion continues to feature Sue Shel- inspired by her bags’ decorations. The On Fashion lenbarger’s ‘Work & Family,’ Elizabeth hip Milanese interior design firm Dimore As news organizations prioritize Bernstein’s ‘Bonds,’ Sumathi Reddy’s Studio developed chairs. resources, lifestyle coverage has of- ‘Your Health,’ Scott McCartney’s ‘Mid- The store, which will be open until April ten taken a back seat — and that has dle Seat,’ A.J. Baime’s ‘My Ride,’ Marc 16, will carry a selection of exclusive bag become apparent at The Wall Street Myers’ ‘Anatomy of a Song,’ ‘Turning styles available in monochromatic versions Journal in recent months. Points’ by Clare Ansberry and ‘What’s and decorated with florals, intarsia and Your Workout’ (by various people) The Journal, which restructured embroidered birds. Four shoe designs and its newsroom late last year, has among others.” done away with Teri Agins’ fashion None of those refreshed columns a range of charms, will also be sold there. column “Ask Teri,” Marshall Hey- include style-centric criticism, how- In addition, special products will be avail- man’s party column “Heard and ever. The spokeswoman emphasized paper continues to have a main deputy editor in chief, left the compa- able at Farfetch. Prices range from 890 Scene,” Christina Binkley’s “On Style” that the paper still covers fashion news section, Business and Finance, ny for rival The New York Times. euros to 2,000 euros, or $948 or $2,131. column and Elizabeth Holmes’ style in its Life & Arts section, via its Off Review and Off Duty, as well as the The Journal’s editor in chief “I think this store will give more visibil- column. It couldn’t be determined if Duty teams and in the pages of WSJ occasional WSJ magazine. Gerard Baker called a town hall style ity to Paula Cademartori products, which, alk Magazine. (Off Duty also has a soci- The restructuring at the news- meeting Monday to address con- all the writers were offered buyouts, with their colors and energetic vibe, look but the changes at the Journal are ety column dubbed “Fete Accompli,” room is central to The Journal’s cerns about the paper’s strategy, very modern to me,” said Rosso, adding part of a larger reorganization of its which appears to take the place of WSJ2020 strategic review, which is as it expands its digital efforts in arts and culture coverage, as well as Heyman’s column). supposed to help the company trim the face of print revenue declines, that OTB’s goal is to help the label expand select business sections. The new Journal now includes the $100 million from its budget. Follow- as well as coverage of President in international markets. A spokeswoman from the Journal combination of Personal Journal and ing a round of layoffs, about 200 buy- Trump, which some at the company Besides Cademartori, OTB controls the confirmed the termination of the reg- Arena under Life & Arts. Greater New outs and the redesign of the paper, deemed as too soft, in comparison Diesel, Maison Margiela, Marni and Viktor ular columns, adding: “Over the years York, a Rupert Murdoch machination, the newsroom took another blow as to its competitors. & Rolf brands, and manufacturing arms we have regularly refreshed column was cut late last year. The Saturday Rebecca Blumstein, a well respected — Alexandra Steigrad van F E van by photograph Swarovski Staff International and Brave Kid.