ISSUE #3 MARCH 13, 2020

A Publication of WWD

Flash of Inspiration The coronavirus might be dominating everyone's thoughts, as it did during the just-finished season, but it didn't stop makeup artists in , and from creating fantastical looks on the runway, from extreme embellishment to slicked-back hair. For more on the key trends, see pages 10 to 12. PLUS, Master Class with L’Oréal’s Nathalie Gerschtein, the Rise of Clean Makeup and Leslie Blodgett’s New Book. PHOTOGRAPH BY DELPHINE ACHARD Edelman's sentiments. To be Maslansky &Partners, echoed communications consulting firm chief executive officer of banks, goodLord," Edelman said. second from thebottom above terms of consumertrust. "You're right above thefinancialsector in Edelman's Trust Barometer, ranked , according to the room they neededto improve. Richard Edelman told executives in something thatkeynote speaker focus onconsumertrust, to bringinmore chairs. Ken Cookthattheorganization had from EWG president and cofounder side room atTheBreakers to hear executivesbeauty crowded into a are goingto make," andsomany kind of product thatcompanies recycled packaging as"just the paraben-free andhousedin that was vegan, cruelty-free, touted anAmway soaponstage as "theenemy" —was even there. attendee half-jokingly referred to Working Group —whichonePCPC were different. TheEnvironmental issues,beauty butthisyear, things known for budgingonhot button sustainability. everything from to cleanbeauty fresh eyes —andfresh takes on Council hasmoved into 2020with The Personal Care THE BUZZ Sustainability ThemeSustainability With Modernizes PCPC chain officer of Amway. George Calvert, chief supply Michael Maslansky, The agendaincludedahefty PCPC chairmanGeorge Calvert The lobbying group hasnot been News from the 2020 Personal Care Products Council annual meeting.

Products Lezlee Westine &George Calvert atPCPC. schedules.” they mayhave very restrictive factories to open up, orifthey do, government isnot allowing those and inmany of those markets the ingredients comefrom , said. "Many of oursuppliers for It’s almost allsupplychain,” he impacted by this, it’s staggering. number of U.S. companies thatare massive hit. you When lookatthe landscape.on thebeauty "It’s a likely to have significantimpacts interview thatCOVID-19 was their distance. executives, for themost part, kept affectionate crew of beauty was sparse, andthenormally the coronavirus. Handshaking were really worried aboutwas In thehalls, whatexecutives & DrugAdministration regulation. about possible changes inFood PCPC attendees were buzzing carried over from 2019, when 2020 —namelysunscreen —were they trust. purchase from anorganization consumers are more likely to who addedthat95percent of and research atCondéNast, head of marketing strategy them," saidAndrea Campbell, to influencers, "they don't trust industry jargon, headded. consumers inregular words, not trustworthy, thekey isto speakto Calvert acknowledged inan Some of thehot topics of GenZfeelsWhile connected Beauty Bulletin

¬ And Legislation Sustainability, Sunscreen AgendaThe PCPC — look to passlegislationfor federal said JayAnsell, aPCPCscientist. safety of allof these materials," to ultimately beconsidered safe. for theeightingredients inquestion provided. Thegoal, Westine said, is any additionalinformation couldbe with thegroup to determine whatif has been"working very closely" sunscreen active ingredients, PCPC at operations more andmore." at packaging, butthey're alsolooking looking atingredients, they're looking supply chainofficer, said. "They're Calvert, whoisalsoAmway's chief are lookingfor [sustainability]," which remains definition-less. determine safety, andcleanbeauty, been lookinginto more closely to sunscreen, whichtheFDA has told inaninterview, WWD asare George Calvert, PCPCchairman, Lezlee Westine, PCPCpresident, and consumer trust to recycling. touched oneverything from and featured speakers that programming around sustainability, Council focused thisyear's ¬ pay more for aproduct ifthere's from talk: his and reused. Here are key points for to containers bewashed program,Loop which allows including thecompany's new and reuse initiatives atPCPC, through modernized recycling walked beauty executives executive officer Tom Szaky TOM SZAKY The Personal Care The group alsocontinues to "The industry isconfidentinthe As theFDA looks more closely at "From aproduct standpoint, people Those issues are top of mind, TerraCycle founder andchief "[Consumers are] not going to

Products

to reuse." landfill or recycling, itgoes up except instead ofgoing to away like garbage andit's picked no throw cleaning, no sorting, it reusable. when So you're done, to feel disposable, butact absolutely possible. Itneeds like athrowaway system as to"It needs befeeling asmuch the same,they willchoose it." — butifthose three are things going to performance sacrifice to price, sacrifice andthey're not convenience, they're not going they're not going to sacrifice do anything more to get it, butwillnot[sustainability] prefer it." recycled content, butthey will own decisions." sure consumers make their 'personal,' sowe want to make personal care ... really does say providing thechoices. Thephrase innovation —really, we're just they know, others want thelatest want to stay withproducts that what's more convenient, others sourced products. Others want do want 100percent organically preferences," Westine said. "Some "Consumers rightnow are changing are "safe," Ansellsaid. materials usedacross theboard choice, whileaffirmingthatthe is backingtheideaof consumer of Congress isalways achallenge." election year, sogetting anything out optimistic, but"thisisapresidential — it's ahugechallenge." Vermont andCalifornia separately U.S. can't formulate itfor Maine, to formulate aproduct for the can imagineanybody trying a patchwork of state laws. You now, we're operating against this regard," Calvert said. "Right FDA to have more in authority state-by-state laws. "We want the would beeasierto navigate than regulations, whichitcontends BY BY "Consumers like On the clean beauty front,On thecleanbeauty PCPC Westine saidsheremains ALLISON COLLINS

MARCH 13, 2020

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Calvert photograph by Robert Clark NEWS FEED 3 MARCH 13, 2020

Credo Beauty, Push THE NEW CLEAN TEAM Five brands redefining Clean Makeup clean makeup. “What you hear about in the industry in terms of sluggishness in color — that’s not what we’re experiencing.” BY ELLEN THOMAS

COULD CLEAN BRANDS revive makeup’s slowdown? Beauty retailers seem to think so. Both Sephora and Credo Beauty Saie Dew Balm in Rosy Gold, $18 this week have unveiled plans This formula gets its sheen from to bolster clean makeup, despite marshmallow root and olive oil. prestige makeup’s sluggish sales — down 7 percent in 2019, according to data from The NPD Group — and clean makeup’s small size — about 7 percent of total makeup brands are considered clean — relative to the rest of the category. Sephora is expanding its Clean at Sephora program with an increased emphasis on color . On March 12 the retailer began rolling out a front-of-store animation in all Makeup at Credo Beauty. Ilia Super Serum Skin Tint, $46 its U.S. doors, highlighting 11 makeup With niacinimde, squalane and hylaruonic acid, this is brands that have received the Clean “The big players in clean makeup passionate about clean, but she’s a with built-in skin care. at Sephora seal. The animation are dragging down the smaller huge makeup junkie.” will remain up for at least four to brands, but if you pull out the bigger Brands like Lawless Beauty, Kosas six weeks, and there will also be players in the space, the growth is and Westman Atelier are changing permanent endcaps throughout stores actually significant,” said Larissa the notion of what clean makeup highlighting clean makeup, plus a Jensen, vice president and industry looks like, and even more new brands digital component. The LVMH Moet advisor at The NPD Group. are emerging quickly. Saie Beauty, -owned retailer Jensen said consumer interest in billed as a luxury nontoxic line from has added new clean makeup brands clean skin care, which has driven a former Estée Lauder executive, in to its roster in the past year, including significant growth, will apply to August raised a round of funding Kosas and Tower28, and worked with makeup, too. “There’s going to be a backed by Unilever Ventures and some of its bigger ones, including Bite point where consumers are putting a slew of other investors. Industry Beauty and Tarte’s clean makeup, on clean skin-care on, and they’re not veteran Amy Liu last year started Westman Atelier Lip Suede, $85 The brand’s first foray reformulating and repositioning. going to want to put [non-clean] Tower 28, which makes clean and into lip is made from a For its part, Credo Beauty, the San makeup on top of that,” she said. eczema-safe products like the vegetable-derived base. Francisco-based clean beauty retailer Until recently, clean makeup was SuperDew Shimmer Free that many industry players regard as a quiet with not a lot of activity; the and ShineOn Jelly , which standard-bearer for ingredient policies, majority of consumers were wary Sephora quickly scooped up. has teamed with celebrity makeup of the products not performing as Some of the newest clean makeup artist Katey Denno, who is known for well as those from conventional brands are growing the fastest. using only clean products. She is joining brands. But that’s changed, retailers California-based Kosas, for Kosas Revealer , $28 Credo’s Clean Beauty Council advisory say, as newer brands in the category instance, grew 400 percent in 2019 A partner to Kosas’ cult tinted face oil, this sold out in week one. board, and will also serve as its brand create innovative products with following its launch into Sephora ambassador and lead makeup artist. high-performance, long-wearing and a series of product launches that “Last year we started to see a formulations and sleek packaging quickly turned into cult hits, such as bigger uptick in product innovation that challenge the notion of clean the 10-Second Eyeshadow and Wet and launches, and this year, there’s makeup as health food store fodder. Oil Lip Gloss. The brand’s Revealer a noticeable shift in terms of new Both Jackson and Cindy Deily, Concealer, launched in February, sold brands coming to market,” said Sephora’s vice president of Skincare out of five shades in week one. Tower 28 Shine On Lip Jelly, $14 Annie Jackson, cofounder and chief Merchandising who oversees Clean There are also established brands All of the brand's products are nontoxic and safe for operating officer of Credo. “What you at Sephora, cited the convergence like Ilia, which announced a Series eczema sufferers. hear about in the industry in terms of consumer demand with the B round in January, and introduced of sluggishness in color — that’s not emergence of innovative new brands new branding and packaging. It has what we’re experiencing.” and technology as the reason clean been experiencing “extreme growth,” 11 brands. “It’s a really beautiful The numbers reveal that clean makeup is having a moment. said founder Sasha Plavsic. Sales group that can deliver to clients — makeup brands still comprise a “It was only a matter of time in 2019 sales were said to be $22 now is the time we can speak proudly small segment of prestige makeup, before the demand reached over in million, a number sources expect to about it,” said Hahn. and the biggest brands with the a bigger way to makeup,” said Deily. reach $35 million for 2020. “Brands have really evolved to beat most distribution are experiencing “At the same time there have been Veteran players like Bite Beauty conventional beauty,” added Jackson, declines like the rest of the category. significant moves on the brand side and Tarte Sea were revamped ahead who is adding Westman Atelier to But within clean makeup, a stable and the chemistry has caught up. of Sephora’s clean makeup push. her assortment and planning on of small emerging brands with Clean has been in the market for a Sephora worked directly with the eventually launching private label limited distribution — sold in only while, but has historically appealed brands on “clearer DNA” and “clearer at Credo. “If you ask a customer one or two major retailers, as defined to consumers who prefer a more definition in clean,” said Alison now if you can tell the difference by NPD — are growing, up 10 percent natural look. Now you have founders Hahn, svp of merchandising for color. between clean and conventional, they year-over-year. like Annie Lawless — she’s really Clean at Sephora now encompasses wouldn’t be able to tell you.” What Touches Your ANISA TELWAR KAICKER Founder & CEO of Anisa International Face Matters and ANISA Beauty

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ANISABEAUTY.COM | @ANISABeauty NEWS FEED 5 MARCH 13, 2020

Essie, Reddit Partner on Gift Exchange Program Essie is hoping to tap into the social platform's beauty-obsessed Gen Z audience via a RedditGifts sponsorship. BY ALEXA TIETJEN

ESSIE IS TAKING a new approach Reddit has more than 430 million to gifting. monthly active users and has seen The nail company is tapping into "tremendous growth" within its RedditGifts, a year-round, online gift beauty communities, said Young. exchange program created by Reddit Nearly two-thirds of RedditGifts users in 2009. Through the partnership are between the ages of 25 and 45, — a play by Essie to reach Reddit's and 63 percent are women. Nearly beauty-obsessed Gen Z audience — half of Reddit users have actively Essie will gift 200 participants with purchased beauty products in the last samplings of its Expressie polish, six months and 31 percent of beauty its first new franchise since 2017. It enthusiasts are on the platform, is the first beauty brand to sponsor according to ComScore. RedditGifts. WWD previously reported that "With the launch of Expressie, Reddit saw a 63 percent year-over- we’re targeting Gen Z and [Reddit] year increase in subscribers in its has a huge Gen Z audience," Essie is sponsoring a RedditGifts top 50 beauty communities last program in hopes of reaching Reddit's said Liz Hanigan, assistant vice beauty-obsessed Gen Z audience. year. Beauty blogger feuds drove a president of integrated consumer year-over-year subscriber increase of communications at Essie. "We 81-pound package to a user he was helps connect the world and make it 87 percent to Beauty Guru Chatter, thought it would be an interesting matched with in a Secret Santa group. feel a little bit smaller." a popular Reddit community that way to test and learn." "It’s a wonderful way for people On March 16, Reddit will announce discusses the goings-on of beauty Last year, RedditGifts had more to exchange gifts with other people Essie's sponsorship of the Makeup Gift vloggers. Reddit’s most popular than 75 exchanges. It saw 200,000 who are passionate about those topics Exchange program on its r/redditgifts beauty community of 2019 was participants, one of whom was and interests," said Roxy Young, vice page. It will proceed to match users with Skincare Addiction, which surpassed Bill Gates, who reportedly sent an president of marketing at Reddit. "It their "secret Redditor" on March 30. one million subscribers.

to do something so game-changing Beauty Pie Grabs Slice of Off-line with a visionary retailer like Harvey Nichols, you have to look at how that opportunity might elevate your offer, Retail With a Harvey Nichols Pop-up whether you can pull it off and test and learn — just like you would do Beauty Pie will offer nonmembers a chance to purchase items at 50 percent online,” she said. off typical retail prices. BY FIONA MA For the Harvey Nichols beauty team, working with Beauty Pie fits with allowance top-ups. Beauty Pie in with its ethos of “new, niche members can buy up to 100 pounds and ground-breaking.” Jo Osborne, worth of a product’s regular price director of beauty and concessions at value every month. Harvey Nichols, said the brand is a For nonmembers, customers can game changer in the industry. purchase a drop-in pass where they "Their boundary pushing ethos can purchase items for a discount of has a great synergy with Harvey 50 percent off of typical retail prices. Nichols and we firmly believe that Passes cost 20 pounds, and there this partnership will bring in a will be a limited number sold online. new customer to our Knightsbridge For those who can’t get their hands flagship, as well as appealing to our on a drop-in pass, customers can existing domestic and international still purchase Beauty Pie products at shoppers," she said. typical retail prices. Osborne also believes in the

Harvey Nichols x Beauty Pie pop-up. For example, Beauty Pie's Super importance of syncing the online Retinol Night costs 9.08 and off-line experience together. LONDON — Digital first beauty retail overheads. However, we knew pounds for members and 75 pounds "While Beauty Pie already has an brand Beauty Pie is going off-line for eventually pop-ups or another form for nonmembers. costs 4.64 extremely engaged online audience, we the first time with a pop-up at Harvey of retail would be required." pounds for members and 20 pounds understand that in-store experiences Nichols beauty hall starting March 12. Beauty, Kilgore added, is a sensorial for nonmembers. are vital for any bricks-and-mortar Beauty Pie launched in 2016 as a club, experience and people still want the “It’s a tiered approach based on how business, so the three-month pop-up offering wholesale prices for luxury opportunity to touch, feel and smell we think our customers like to shop: will be a combination of honoring their beauty products to paying members, a product. While starting out digital Some dive in with reckless abandon, existing format but showcasing the and claiming to offer the best products made sense for her business model, some just want to dip their toes, and brand in a whole new way," she added. while cutting out the middle man. she stressed that it's still necessary to some are still walking around the While Beauty Pie may be dipping So why is Beauty Pie now have physical presence. edge of the pool,” said Kilgore, who its toes into retail, Kilgore said the exploring bricks-and-mortar? “It’s an That being said, the concept is added that the extra margins gained focus remains on creating a robust omnichannel world,” said founder far from retail as usual. In terms of from nonmember purchases will pay product development pipeline, ticking Marcia Kilgore. “It started as a digital pricing, off-line will mirror online. for the pop-up's expenses. off aromatherapy, more skin care, brand, because we hoped it would Members of Beauty Pie can shop the She said the idea of doing a pop-up body care, makeup, supplements, be a really convenient way for us products at members’ prices, which shop excited her and the partnership hair and scalp treatments and artist to test the idea of a luxury beauty are usually up to 80 percent off with Harvey Nichols an easy choice. collaborations as projects currently buyer’s club without having big typical retail prices for similar prices, “When you get an opportunity in the works. NEWS FEED 6 MARCH 13, 2020

have been very good, so we’re very optimistic.” The Thread: The gains — well above the 1 percent domestic category growth — were driven by numerous Beauty Flocks phenomena, such as new products, including those done in partnerships to TikTok with artisans; more shops, and Beauty opens continued investment in media and store windows. the door to a dedicated Granado, with treatment products TikTok house. that run the gamut from body care BY ALEXA TIETJEN to face, bath, hair and nail care, cosmetics and fragrances, all with vegetable-based, paraben- free formulas, recently dipped into fragrance. “Now in our shops in Brazil, 22 percent of sales are fragrance. That really took the ticket level up,” said has opened its TikTok house, where content creators will live to go viral. Sissi Freeman. Granado has repackaged and BEAUTY'S FLOCK TO TikTok relaunched a few lines, and entered has dawned — and some are into some more categories with opening more than just accounts. somewhat higher price points. Fenty Beauty announced last “For example, Phebo is very well- week an entire house dedicated known for bar soaps, and we have to the creation of TikTok content. been investing now in liquid soaps,” Located in Los Angeles, the space she said, referring to Brazil’s first will have a rotating roster of Granado's book published luxury perfumery brand introduced residents. and a "fully stocked" by Assouline. in the Thirties that was incorporated makeup pantry. Gleaning from into Granado in 2004. images Fenty Beauty provided, New products, like limited editions there's plenty of room to go viral. Granado Celebrates with a retail focus, have been In a statement, a TikTok launched, making Phebo less skewed spokesperson called the house an toward wholesale than before. "innovative opportunity because it Today, Granado makes about 60 promotes inclusivity and highlights Its 150th Birthday percent and Phebo the remainder diversity in beauty and lifestyle." of the company’s overall activity, Fenty Beauty chose the creators, Brazil’s oldest pharmacy brand has a year of which has been developing both in including @challxn, festivities lined up. BY JENNIFER WEIL wholesale and retail. @makayladid, @emmycombss Granado has 81 freestanding and @thedawndishsoap. They will PARIS — Granado, Brazil’s oldest with the Olympia Le-Tan brand on stores in Brazil and eight abroad, of live in the house for the next month. pharmacy brand, is marking its a limited-edition clutch designed to which three are in Paris. While it isn't the first beauty 150th birthday this year in more look like the Granado book that’s Phebo’s store layouts have been brand on the platform — let's not ways than one. decorated with an image depicting reworked, and a new retail concept forget E.l.f. Cosmetics' catchy There’s a commemorative Rio’s coastline. Moda Operandi will was recently unveiled for Granado. musical 2019 campaign — Fenty is book just published by Assouline begin selling the clutches in October. The smaller shops in more premium the first to open a dedicated house. that is chockablock with history As part of the anniversary locations than its traditional stores As becomes increasingly and memorabilia. Find in it an festivities, Granado is hosting an sell only the brand’s exclusive saturated with sponsored content, advertisement dating from the 1950 interactive exhibition in Rio’s National products, about 30 percent of brands are embracing TikTok FIFA World Cup featuring Brazil’s History Museum through early May. Granado’s stockkeeping units. The as a supplement to their social soccer team captain using Granado’s That features the book’s archival format can be rolled out in other strategies and a means of reaching Antiseptic Powder and photos of elements, which have never before locales, such as department stores. a younger audience. TikTok in its Salomé soap in its first and recent been presented together or seen by “We are now starting to split nascent stages is a place where iterations. the public. The exhibit is divided into [Granado and Phebo] up a bit,” anyone can have at least one viral “The Granado family left behind five sections, including one about the Freeman said. video, regardless of one's clout on a lot of archives that we use as brand’s packaging evolution. After Brazil, where e-commerce is other platforms. This week's viral inspiration for advertisements, for Freeman said a smaller exhibition Granado’s number-one and fastest- beauty clip came from a user named specific lines that are about our will be staged in Lisbon in May and growing door, its largest markets are Jarida, aka @ridaaaamat, who heritage,” explained Sissi Freeman, there might be a pop-up exhibit in and Portugal. shared her hack for foundation, marketing and sales director at Paris later this year. Since Puig took a 35 percent stake spawning the #FoundationChallenge. Granado, whose father, Christopher Granado’s financial results are in Granado in September 2016, the Urban Skin RX is one brand who J.O. Freeman, in 1994 acquired the another cause for celebration. Despite two companies share synergies. has experienced the benefits — read: Rio de Janeiro-based company — the challenging economic situation in Granado has begun third-party sales lift — of unexpected virality on once the official pharmacy of Brazil’s Brazil, where the company generates manufacturing in Brazil for some of the platform. A user named Ashley imperial family. “When we thought 95 percent of its sales, Granado has Puig’s fragrance brands, for instance. Boggs, aka @niceoneAshley, about what we wanted to do to been registering double-digit revenue Looking ahead to later this year, featured its Even Tone Cleansing celebrate, this book was one of the increases. In 2019, it posted a 17 Freeman said: “We have a plan of Bar in a video, which Urban Skin first things on our list.” percent on-year sales gain to about opening about three shops in . RX confirmed was not paid. The It took one year to pull together 600 million reals, or $127.5 million, We’re exploring other cities.” Those company saw a 220 percent increase the tome that comes in English and and in 2018, sales advanced 15 percent. include Lisbon — the birthplace of in sales at Ulta, Target and CVS Portuguese, and is being sold in “This year our plan is about the Granado’s founder José Antônio Coxito following the video. It has since Granado and Assouline shops, other same, 17 percent,” said Christopher Granado — Spain, and London. entered a paid partnership with bookstores and online. Freeman, Granado’s chief executive At home in Brazil, Granado Boggs, who announced the brand's

Granado has also partnered officer. “January and February intends to debut seven more stores. #ClearSkinChallenge. Fenty photograph by Adrienne Young / Courtesy of Beauty WEEKLY ROUNDUP 7 MARCH 13, 2020 The Latest From WWD Fashion.Finance.Media.Retail.

Corona Cancellations ¬ After much speculation, decision comes at a time Coachella has officially of universal uncertainty, we been rescheduled due to take the safety and health Coronavirus. of our guests, staff and “At the direction of the community very seriously. County of Riverside and We urge everyone to follow Richard Baker local health authorities, the guidelines and protocols we must sadly confirm the put forth by public health HBC'S RAPID rescheduling of Coachella officials.” PRIVATE and Stagecoach due Coachella will instead take to COVID-19 concerns,” place on the weekends of EVOLUTION Goldenvoice, organizers Oct. 9, 10, 11 and 16, 17, 18, while of both festivals, shared Stagecoach will occur on Oct. ¬ In the wake of Rinascente stores across Italy are closed. in a statement. “While this 23, 24 and 25. —Ryma Chikhoune going private, HBC announced a number Cochella Italy Halts Nonessential Retail of changes. The On Wednesday night, Italian country-wide. Rinascente Toronto-based HBC is Prime Minister Giuseppe has closed its nine doors, decentralizing so its Conte officially announced Coin has shuttered 40 and three divisions — Saks the closure of all nonessential Kiko Milano has closed its Fifth Avenue, Saks commercial activities 340 doors until April 3. Off 5th and Hudson’s throughout the country until “We are definitely close Bay — operate more April 3. Beginning Thursday, to the exhaustion of our autonomously. Plans the only stores able to remain resources. We are trying to integrate Barneys to do miracles to respond open will be food stores New York into Saks and pharmacies. to the requests of health Fifth Avenue are “If we all respect these treatments, but if we don’t measures, we will overcome do something to invert advancing, and a this crisis faster. We are all part the increasing number of campaign re-branding of a community of individuals patients, we will never be the Hudson’s Bay and each of us have to do able to be as fast as the division in Canada sacrifices now for the common virus,” said Attilio Fontana, launches today. Neiman Marcus Group good,” Conte said. Lombardy region president. HBC also plans to Gets Pruned Already, many companies, “We have to make sacrifices, re-brand its Saks’ including Armani and Gucci, we have to stay home, we contemporary ¬ Neiman Marcus Group, will be eligible for severance furthering its four-year and outplacement services had shut their flagships have to be ready to renounce business, currently income.” — Alessandra Turra “transformation” plan, is and can apply for open in Milan. Now the effect is called The Collective, streamlining to sharpen the positions. “This is not a to Barneys. It focus on full-price selling workforce reduction. This is would be a low- and raise profitability. NMG not a reaction to anything Coronavirus Amplifies cost maneuver to will close most of its 22 Last happening in the economy cast a brighter light Call clearance outlets and now. It’s a strategic decision Brands' Digital Push on contemporary let go of approximately 500 to redeploy resources,” Last Call workers over the Geoffroy van Raemdonck, absence of 100 buyers and fashion at Saks. next eight months. Some chief executive officer of communications people from Authentic Brands workers could be reassigned the Neiman Marcus Group, various countries. “Everything’s Group has said within the company; others told WWD. — David Moin been digitalized so you can zoom it would open in on every product,” he said 40 Barneys shops of Vuitton’s new digital virtual at Saks Fifth Avenue showroom. “It would have taken locations, including The Joor platform. me two years to get it done, but in the Manhattan for the coronavirus.” ¬ As companies struggle to flagship. The move has implications deal with the negative impact Additionally, beyond this season. “My of the coronavirus, fashion the former Barneys prediction is that in the future, brands are stepping up digital you’re not going to have to come flagship in Beverly strategies to facilitate doing to every showroom,” Burke said. Hills will be business long-distance, with “The e-commerce will benefit converted into a new potentially beneficial long-term from it. You’ll see, within two, Saks store, while the effects for the environment. three months, all online sites will On the day of the Louis Vuitton existing Saks flagship become a lot better because show at the end of Paris Fashion will close and be everybody had to scramble Week, chairman and ceo Michael redeveloped into a and get everything online,” he Burke said the house acted fast yet-to-be-determined forecast. — Joelle Diderich A Neiman Marcus Last Call store in Miami. to compensate for the expected use. — David Moin Coachella by Amy Harris/Invision/AP/REX/Shutterstock; Joor Sophia Wallace/Courtesy of Joor; Italy Luca Bruno/AP/Shutterst ock; Neiman Alan Diaz/AP/REX/Shutterstock; Baker Robin Van Lonkhuijsen/EPA/Shutterstock PRESENTED BY:

Beauty industry leaders discussing what it takes to win at retail.

Watch a snapshot of the roundtable session!

CLICK HERE FORWARD FACING Creating demand at retail requires beauty brands to not only have on-trend products, but execute a high-level of service and personalized customer experience.

s retailers and brands knowledge and a euphoric expectation and knowledgeable sales force are only halfway representing that day, or something else – continue to pour millions you better be prepared to provide them more there from a sell-through perspective,” trust is created.” of dollars into various than they’re going to get online -- they want Summers explained. “To continue the That trust leads to having a truly authentic technologies to improve a signature brand experience.” 360-degree approach, Beauty Barrage has experience, said Ray, “which leads to shoppers the shopping experience Nimri, Ray, and Fair agreed that brands and thrown out pressure-based selling and instead returning for advice, which ultimately builds of consumers, several retailers need to live up to the expectations of educates their team on consultative selling that customer/brand, signature relationship, successful brands in the consumers and that means working harder and understanding service and how to engage and indirectly, generating increased sales.” Abeauty space have found that building long- and being more cognizant of their needs. The with the customer in order to solve the Additionally, that trust created in-store carries term customer value requires an in-store, panelists confirmed that brands spend a lot problem and provide a targeted solution.” over to online and strengthens the 360-degree one-on-one experience that builds trust and of money on marketing and social media, but “We need to try and dig deeper and solve approach Summers described earlier. creates community while serving up high- when shoppers walk into a physical store and the root issue, instead of just trying to “sell Fair said the majority of our business quality products that shoppers need and crave. don’t have a positive experience, it’s a lose-lose them,” Summers added. is in physician offices, but this holds true According to a recent WWD Studios for retailers and brands alike. At Beauty Barrage, brand ambassadors in-store. In-store service experience is Thought Leaders’ Lab, the solution is a Zen- are trained at least once a month, but can important – and it’s not always about a like focus on people and products. Beauty Consultive selling go to three times a month depending quick sales conversion. “It’s about going in industry executives who shared their insights Summers and Fitzpatrick said brands need on the contract, and include training on and having a special service that you’re not on what it takes to succeed in today’s market, to take a 360-degree approach that also products, selling and service and micro- going to get anywhere else,” she explained. emphasized a consumer-centric approach that encompasses online, social media and influencing. The goal is to merge the sales “For example, we’ll do a skinscope event that requires brands to know how to unlock the in-store. But it is the in-store experience that tactics and incorporate a brand’s ethos with takes 45 minutes whereby we take a detailed mindset of today’s multi-generational beauty is the keystone of maintaining the customer- its products, as a way to forge a long-term, skin assessment of the customer and then, customer, while also creating demand at retail brand relationship. experiential relationship between the brand recommend specialized and complementary and leveraging social media. “I think we have to remember too that and customer – regardless of whether it’s a The session was hosted by Sonia when the customer is shopping for beauty, it’s first-time buyer of a particular product, or a Summers, founder and chief executive officer still and will always be very experiential. They loyal shopper of the brand. of outsourced education and salesforce still want to touch textures and feel and smell solution provider Beauty Barrage, and the products … and that’s not something that Human connections included Christina Fair, general manager will ever go away,” Summers said. Beauty The panelists agreed that the “human The panelists at SkinCeuticals U.S., Suhair Nimri, chief Barrage has not only embraced this concept connection” is most critical in establishing agreed that revenue officer at Perricone MD, Allison but continues to evolve because the bar for the initial, base-line relationship. Amid Slater Ray, president of MBX, and Amanda in-store experiences, increases exponentially investments and deployment of various the “human Fitzpatrick, director of in-store experience every year,” Summers added. technologies and platforms, meaningful at Beauty Barrage. It’s also important to note that shoppers are and lasting conversions occur because connection” The starting point for success is quick to jump onto trends, which could create of the in-store, one-on-one consultations. understanding the consumer’s perspective, a problem if misinformation appears online. Fitzpatrick, Nimri, and Ray said there’s a is most which begins with acknowledging that today’s Summers said it was important to work with high level of authenticity and trust in that shoppers have high expectations. Fair and Ray brands in order “to ensure that the sales force relationship. critical in noted that consumers are “highly educated” can not only clarify any erroneous information “I’m a makeup artist by trade and still, establishing and have done a lot of research before that might exist online, but educate, because when I run into a store quickly wanting to stepping into a store and contemplating a the consumers are so well-researched.” The pick up my “go-to” mascara, if there’s a good the initial, beauty brand. panelists also noted that there’s a challenge for brand ambassador on the floor, a two-minute Ray said consumers are “really empowered brands to “stay ahead of the curve,” especially interaction has the potential to create a base-line and I think they’re expecting a lot from both when shoppers are also “ingredient savvy” and lasting, trustful relationship,” Fitzpatrick the brands and the retailers.” Summers concerned about what goes inside their bodies said. “Even if I’m there for one of my staples, relationship.” added that consumers have “done their as well as what goes on their skin. if the brand ambassador educates me about research, so they’re coming in armed with “However, brands that have a another product, whether it’s the one they’re PRESENTED BY: PRESENTS

Christina Fair Allison Slater Ray Amanda Fitzpatrick

products to address their individual needs. consumers are not on Instagram. Instagram is demos and makeovers done in a compelling This is a full-service experience that has to a great tool, but for us, Facebook has a higher and memorable way to get shoppers excited be provided in-store and I promise you, it aggregate of our customer base.” about the brand and product. cannot be accomplished without expertise The panelists The panelists concurred that newness and training.” Creating demand continues to drive beauty and shoppers In regard to servicing multiple generations, The panelists said social media and said social key into this and want to be delighted the panelists agreed that brands have to stay marketing works best when customers are by a just-launched product, a GWP or a true to their core attributes, which might fully engaged, regardless of the platform, media and limited-edition item offered especially for require focusing on different channels, or including direct mail marketing. The them. Creating demand at retail includes acknowledging that it might not make sense strategy should drive consumers to stores. marketing a high level of service and customer to target 15-year-olds on TikTok. Once there, one-on-one engagement can engagement – but the panelists all agreed For example, it requires knowing that trigger multiple conversions – meaning, the works that it starts with the product itself, with Baby Boomers seek out a luxury, in-store, shopper goes in for one product, but leaves Summers re-emphasizing that “it needs to experience compared to Millennials, who with a basket-full of other items because the best when be on-trend, and that a brand needs to know first turn to influencers and product reviews experience was positive and engaging. customers are what’s selling and edit down the SKUs that before shopping for a brand or specific Over time, blending the online and aren’t moving.” product. With Generation Z, the shopping social media engagement with a meaningful fully engaged.” “I mean, it’s a business at the end of the day experience both online and in-store has to in-store experience creates community. and we’re all hyper-focused on our specific be transparent. They want to know about Shoppers feel connected to the brand and roles in order to achieve the ultimate goal of ingredients and product testing. It’s also the retailer – it’s familiar and comfortable. creating a loyal customer base, which drives important to note that generational cohorts Community also serves as a platform for continues to hold it together. It’s where the sell-through and increases distribution,” also have varying social media preferences. customers to find solutions – whether it product, brand and customer converge with Summers said. “This is only obtained through “It’s obviously different for each seeks to resolve skincare issues or to garner the knowledge and expertise of the sales a strategic and collaborative partnership generation,” Nimri said. “For example, feedback on new products, or even to just associate. between the brand and their assets, seamlessly Perricone MD is about healthy aging, so we answer specific questions. For Summers and Beauty Barrage, it’s a delivered to the front lines, which are your cater to Baby Boomers and Gen X versus And often, the in-store experience, which team effort that also includes loyalty programs brand ambassadors, creating your signature Millennials and Gen Z. And a lot of our not only creates the community, is also what from retailers, and events as well as product brand experience in-store.”

Sonia Summers and Suhair Nimri DEEP DIVE 10 MARCH 13, 2020

Marni

Junya Watanabe

Haider Ackermann

Maison Margiela lines over one eye of each model and The Bold and also painted a small section of their lips black. At Thom Browne, where some The Beautiful models walked the runway two by two, Eugene Souleiman created black The fear factor rose during the month-long run of fall 2020 bobbed wigs, partially covered with fashion shows in Europe, but runway beauty stayed strong. black latex. He explained there was “duality, couples going on together. Here, key trends from the runways of London, Milan and Paris. I wanted them to almost be mirror BY JENNIFER WEIL AND SANDRA SALIBIAN images of one another, so we did wigs that are mirror images.” OUT-OF-THIS-WORLD egg, with an edge cut off. Everything Isamaya Ffrench created the Some beauty looks took on an is quite aggressive, but perfect, pure makeup look, which involved blocking otherworldly air for fall 2020. and simple.” models’ brows and making their skin The hairstylist Duffy said Haider Lynsey Alexander said Ackermann ultra-sculpted, with a matte finish. In Ackermann gave him the artist wanted models to seem like statues. the center of their lips, she dabbed a Constantin Brancusi as the reference “It’s very alabaster,” she said of the bit of gloss to mirror the hair’s shine. point. “They are very pure shapes, makeup. “We’re going quite pale…so “[Models] look really striking, very defined graphic lines, which I everything is very luminous and light. nubile and slightly alien,” she said. think are resembled in the clothes,” Then we made bespoke gloss. We’re In interpreting Moschino creative Julien d’Ys splashed colored paint Duffy said. “So for the head, I wanted painting it all over the eyes, a little bit director Jeremy Scott’s wish to mix 18th- and metallic glitter all over the gelled to give this idea of the shape, the on the cheekbones and [applying] a century and rock vibes, Paul Hanlon hair and face of models at . form that leads into another form nude . We’re pushing back all become like a modern-day Léonard- For Antonio Marras, James Pecis that maybe jolts slightly, but has a the features, so there’s no warmth in Alexis Autié — the famed hairdresser masterminded an intricate look, beauty, a purity, a fluidity [although] the skin. It’s very ethereal and silver.” behind Marie-Antoinette’s looks — and sewing extensions together to create there is a disconnect with them.” At Yohji Yamamoto, Pat McGrath created exaggerated, pastel-toned wigs “a piece of fabric of hair” with colored Duffy worked with balloons, papier- said the creative director "loved that took a week to make. stitching popping up. Out-of-the-box mâché and a lot of hairspray for the that there would be impressionistic He said the hues of the voluminous beauty appeared on the runways gravity-defying coifs. He said: “The individuality expressed in abstract coifs “took inspiration from the colors also of , Atlein, Rick hairlines are very, very short. We black lines on satin, matte skin.” For of macaroons, making everything a Owens, Junya Watanabe and Noir Kei

ended with a small dome. It was an the show, she drew squiggly black little more punk.” Ninomiya. ► Ackermann photograph by Vanni Bassetti; Watanabe by Giovanni Giannoni; Marni and Margiela by Aitor Rosás Suñé DEEP DIVE 11 MARCH 13, 2020

Christopher John Rogers Prada

Halpern

Gauchere Balmain

with hairspray and affixed on faces tresses a wet look using L’Oréal Paris with eyelash glue at Antonio Marras. Studio Line gel and a touch of oil. “We’re creating a secret language Hanlon combed hair back — again written with a thread,” said Pecheux, with the comb marks remaining explaining he was inspired by Sardinian apparent — into an imperfect bun. artist Maria Lai. “She used to write A bit of gel was wiped on hair just with thread, and it reminded me of before models hit the runway. how Antonio also draws and writes….I At Prada, Guido Palau ironed Simone Rocha wanted to create a makeup that’s tresses into a graphic coif. After almost a secret alphabet between them.” applying No Blow Dry Hair EMBELLISHED EYES direction you’re getting a hint of Eyes had it, as well, at Valentino, Cream, he brushed models’ hair from CRYSTALS, FOIL, THREAD — fluorescent,” she said. , Stella McCartney, Lutz, faces, added extensions to mask layers makeup artists plied their trade with At Erdem, Lynsey Alexander Paula Knorr and Halpern. and topped the style off with metal various materials this season. reinterpreted Cecil Beaton’s work and headbands, giving a sci-fi halo to the At Giambattista Valli, Isamaya nodded to the recurring silver theme SLICKED-BACK HAIR “futuristic classicism” of the look. Ffrench encircled six models’ eyes in the fashion collection by applying Grease was the word for fall 2020, as "It's severely simple…almost like a with Swarovsky crystals. on models’ eyelids silver leafs that many a model had their hair slicked computer [made] idea of hair, like a “The inspiration is a continuation were then set and broken with a brush back on the catwalks. drawing, very linear,” Palau said. “It of the embellished eye theme that to create delicate, fragmented patterns. “There is not a lot of romanticism has a little nod to sort of naïveté, but we’ve been doing for the last couple of Thomas de Kluyver pressed and in the hair at all,” said Anthony strength at the same time, like a sort seasons,” she said, referring to flowers cracked thick red-, black- and pink- Turner at Rochas, explaining the of weird classicism to it.…It has that for spring and the more recent show toned foil on the eyelids of 10 models house’s creative director Alessandro slightly strange normality, which is a with H&M, “where all the girls had at Simone Rocha. Dell’Acqua wanted the models to feel very Prada thing.” these really cool kind of punky, edgy, “I was looking at the way Simone empowered, strong and confident. The Tigi Power Play gel used at crystal things on their eyes. Now, we adds pops of colors within the “It’s very strict, serious, with a very Marco de Vincenzo was meant to wanted to do it again and make it collection and approached the strong side part, combed over using evoke the fashion collection’s bright really feel like high-end, luxury jewelry makeup in the same way,” said de a wide-tooth comb. You get the comb textures. Massimiliano Mattei wet, that you could wear on your face.” Kluyver, who was also inspired by marks, so it feels very much like these middle-parted and slicked back At Off-White, Fara Homidi opted for Irish artist Dorothy Cross’ work. girls mean business.” models’ hair before shaping it into a flourish of fluorescent pink mascara Tom Pecheux applied black, dusty- At Giambattista Valli, Paul Hanlon two small buns at the nape. He as a detail on some models’ lashes. pink and burgundy threads around sought to juxtapose the sweetness applied gel in abundance for an extra- “[It’s] from the mid-lash, pulling models’ eyes or on their upper of the bows and veils, as well as shiny, lacquered finish. outward and a little bit of fluorescent cheeks. He cut 12-inch-long threads, the heavily charged clothes, being Slick hair was also spotted at shows mascara tacked onto [a] part of the rolled and pulled them to make a worn by models with the ’s including Balmain, Gauchère, Sacai, lid, so that as you’re looking in every haphazard motif that was then set toughness. As such, he gave models’ David Koma and Sportmax. ► Gauchere and Halpern photographs by Giovanni Giannoni; Balmain Delphine Achard; Prada, Rocha Kuba Dabrowski; Rogers S ophie Sahara DEEP DIVE 12 MARCH 13, 2020

MSGM Hermès

Lanvin

BOLD-COLORED LIPS Fall 2020 wasn’t just about supernatural looks — there was a fair share of bold-colored lips that popped on the European runways. “We’re doing a bit of an ombré fade from the corners of the lips — different colors for different girls, depending on what they’re wearing. It’s real individualization,” said Fara Homidi at Mugler. She explained that hue-wise, her team was using oxblood Miu Miu Altuzarra red, a black and a dark brown. “It’s a detail that’s somehow strong and sexy at the same time,” continued Homidi, adding models’ skin was to look Missoni dewy on the high points of their faces. At MSGM, Lynsey Alexander CAT EYES designed a bold, lacquered lip using Peter Philips, creative and image MAC Cosmetics Redd lip pencil director for makeup at Dior, crafted coated with Patent Paint Lip Lacquer three different eye makeup looks in Red Enamel, an orange red shade, for models after the house’s creative to evoke the heroines from Dario director Maria Grazia Chiuri gave Argento’s horror movies. “Seventies intellectual” as a cue. One “It’s quite a dangerous red and, like iteration had a take on a cat eye, with a varnish, it gives a PVC finish to the black lines extending from the outer lips," she said. corner of peepers. At , Peter Philips gave models “It’s about pigment in motion, a dramatic, prune-toned lip with a ultra-femininity with a little smudged effect. He applied Diorific 991 masculinity inside,” said Pat McGrath Bold Amethyst lipstick on the inside of of the futuristic cat eye she created at their lips, then extended the color and Prada with an iridescent gradient effect. softened its edges with a Q-tip. Lynsey Alexander at Missoni drew “They showed me a certain shoe, and a graphic, conceptual black line I thought that would be a nice color starting from models’ lower lash line. reference,” said Philips, adding the She described it as “a little flash of “I didn’t want to bring too much “The end result is playing on this hue was applied like a stain. “So that black line, which for me is a little bit eccentricity in the makeup because idea of a young girl dressing up as it looks like the lips [you have] after Japanese-y…and a nod to the Nineties.” I don’t want the girls to become her mother, but she’s not allowed kissing somebody or having a bit of At Moschino, Tom Pecheux used caricatures,” he said. makeup. So she’s gone through her wine — or both,” he said with a laugh. a black pointy eyeliner to telegraph Dominic Skinner was inspired pencil case and got a marker pen to Lippy looks also took center stage “a little bit of toughness” and by the rounded toe of a shoe in the draw the eyeliner on,” Skinner said. on catwalks for Hermès, Chloé, Saint counterbalance the Marie-Antoinette- Marco de Vincenzo collection for Cat eyes took wing at other Laurent, , Lanvin, Roksanda, inspired rosy cheeks and peachy- the chubby take on a cat eye he fashion displays, including Miu Miu,

Roland Mouret and Jil Sander. colored eyelids. crafted there. Altuzarra and Richard Quinn. ■ Lanvin photograph by Dominique Maître; MSGM Kuba Dabrowski; Altuzarra, Misoni, Hermès, Dior Delphine Achard; Miu G iovanni Giannoni DIGITAL EVENTS WEBINAR

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What do you know now that you hair. This formula totally changes wish you knew when you were the cleansing experience. starting out? Lastly — O plus O — online NG: Resilience is very important. plus offline. It is about seriously As you go, you learn and you grow. addressing the consumer in both Sometimes you win and sometimes worlds and combining the experience you learn. Also — the importance and convenience for them in order to of building your network, to have address their desires. people to reach out to for advice. We are ramping up experiences That is very important. with our retailers, and doing so via beauty tech. We recently announced As you assess your business a pilot program at 500 Walmart today, what are your key stores with Google Lens, an industry priorities? first, that enables consumers to NG: The business in the U.S. has not virtually try-on hair color been as dynamic, so we have four shades. We’ve leveraged advanced priorities to restart growth. One is technology and consumer insights to leverage the power of our brand to redefine retail, and are bringing portfolio. The second is to accelerate digital touch-points to physical and bring makeup back to growth. stores. Online, with Amazon and The third is to enhance innovation. other partners, we use ModiFace Lastly, it is to develop our online technology to replicate a consumer’s plus offline strategy. in-store experience, allowing them to First — the brand portfolio. Our virtually test and try on our products. biggest brands are accelerating globally. L’Oréal Paris is the number- What’s the toughest assignment one beauty brand in the world and in you’ve ever been given and how the U.S., and New York is did you navigate it? the number-one makeup brand in the NG: I’ve had an international career, word and the U.S. What’s great is they starting in France, then moving to combine the agility they have adopted for eight years and now I’m from indie brands and the power of in the U.S. Every assignment is a scale and hero products and mega discovery. You’re learning all of the franchises. The complementarity of time — about the culture, the teams, our brand portfolio is an asset to the [retail] customer, the consumer, address the diversity of consumer the market dynamics. What I’ve trends in the market. learned has been inspired by my The second driver is categories. The five-year-old daughter, who was born makeup market has decelerated since and lived all of her life in Bangkok, the end of 2018 and was negative in where it’s summer all year long 2019. We’ve been able to understand and she spoke English with a funny very clearly why the market was down accent. But when we arrived in the last year. One key element is the nude U.S., she adapted right away to the makeup trend. People are using fewer winter weather, the new accent, the products or choosing products that new words. The way to grow is to Nathalie are hybrids between skin care and adapt yourself. We have more doubts makeup. Currently, we’re coming to as we get older, but the reality is it’s market with a lot of products that quite easy to adapt and we shouldn’t fully embrace this trend, such as NYX overthink it. Gerschtein Professional Makeup Bare With Me Tinted Skin Veil and the new L’Oréal What’s your favorite question As president of the Consumer Products Division at Paris Age Perfect makeup line for to ask when you’re interviewing L’Oréal USA, Gerschtein is exploring new avenues Baby Boomers. someone? of growth while revitalizing key categories like color The second category is skin care, NG: I always remember that we the biggest and most dynamic in are recruiting talent and I try to see cosmetics. BY JENNY B. FINE PHOTOGRAPH BY MASATO ONODA the mass market today. Two parts of the longer view. Will they fit in the THE FIRST WOMAN TO run I interviewing for? The h.r. director our portfolio are especially dynamic. company? Be happy here? Is it the the consumer products division of said, ‘At L’Oréal, we’re not filling In the L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Derm right place for them to grow? Are they L’Oréal USA, Nathalie Gerschtein has positions, we’re recruiting talent.’ Intensives franchise, the hyaluronic in it for the long term? People often say held a variety of international roles at The tradition at L’Oréal is to start in acid serum became the number-one L’Oréal is organized chaos, so I look the world’s largest beauty company, the field as a sales rep, which I did, serum in the U.S. in terms of units for people with an entrepreneurial most recently as country head of almost 18 years ago. I spent nine sold. We just introduced a second mind-set. Are they OK to be self-driven L’Oréal before being tapped months in eastern France, in charge one, a glycolic serum, and both now and not always process-driven? I also as president of Maybelline, Garnier of 60 stores. I was going from store have the same market share and want to understand if they can learn and Essie in the U.S. Less than a year to store every day, meeting store are totally incremental. Micellar from failure, because we don’t win all later, L’Oréal named her president managers, consumers, understanding Cleansing Water from Garnier is also the time, so I always ask what is your of the entire division, charged with the brand. We have a saying here, driving a huge amount of growth. biggest failure? restoring growth to the mass market. that you have to be a thinker and a The third priority is our capacity doer at the same time, meaning you to innovate. We just launched What’s your quick fix when you What was your first job and have to be able to roll up your sleeves Falsies Lash Lift mascara for need to destress? what did you learn? and understand the operational Maybelline, and believe it is the NG: I love to practice a bit of Nathalie Gerschtein: My first side of the business and be the first kind of disruptive new product that mindfulness. I downloaded a job was at L’Oréal in France. touchpoint to your customer, and, will bring consumers back to shelf. meditation app and I do 10 minutes I applied for a marketing job, and at the same time, be very strategic Another example is Carol’s Daughter every day — whether in the morning or during my interview, one of the about where you want to take the Wash Day Delight — our first liquid evening. I find it centers me and helps questions I asked was what role am business in the long term. formula that penetrates the me build back my energy. 1.1MM+ Followers on Instagram

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Many of the brands Coty bought said that the current plan is for from P&G were in much worse shape Denis, 55, to stay in place for a while Coty's New CEO Has than imagined, suffering from a — longer at least than the past few general lack of attention and shelf ceo’s — and establish a more stable space losses. Coupled with supply working environment for employees. Beauty Experience. chain problems, sales declined "A leader who talks the same steeply in 2018. Pane was out, and so language, knows the same people, was Becht, who left JAB entirely. knows the industry, knows the But Is That Enough? Pane and Becht were both processes is certainly going to make Coty has hired Jimmy Choo's Pierre Denis as chief consumer packaged goods experts, things easier and to accelerate not beauty experts. the decision process and to make executive officer, hoping he can boost sales. BY ALLISON COLLINS Today, Harf acknowledges the everybody converge to want the same sectors are different: "Cosmetics goal," Térisse said. is a different ball game than fast- Harf described Denis as "a culture- moving consumer goods. It has a builder who is fiercely protective of much higher rate of innovation, so his people and the company." it's critical to continually bring new Denis joins as the fourth Coty ceo in products to the market," he said. In five years, a level of executive turnover addition to bringing in Denis, Coty that rivals that of , which had has added a board member with five different ceo’s between 2013 and beauty experience — Isabelle Parize, 2018, when Debbie Perelman took the the former Douglas ceo. helm. Swift executive turnover can The end of the Becht-Pane era is cause alarm for employees, and Coty when Laubies and Térisse stepped has seen its fair share of departures in, formulating a turnaround plan across all levels of the business, and selling off assets acquired under adding another layer of instability. Becht. , a direct-seller Shella Abe, partner at True Search, with next to nothing in common, said frequent ceo changes can stress business-model wise, with Coty's employees out, especially when existing operations, was first. Next mixed with market competition, up are the Professional and Brazilian M&A and an overall volatile world." operations. Industry sources "These stresses are very real, and said Henkel and private equity firm are dramatically exacerbated when KKR are among the finalists in the there isn't a steady and convincing auction process. presence at the top," Abe said. At the same time as Laubies and "Habitual turnover in the office of the Térisse enacted the turnaround ceo negatively impacts a company's plan, Harf orchestrated an unusual performance, because there is no FOR THE FIRST TIME in a long Denis will need to deviate from that joint venture with , sustained rhyme or reason to how time, Coty Inc. is getting a leader with strategy, and "focus on consumer the fast-growing makeup and skin- roadmaps are constructed and experience in the beauty industry. demand generation for the brands — care business of Kylie Jenner. As decisions are made. In many situations, Pierre Denis, the former chief innovation and marketing — rather majority owner, Coty is technically you as an employee don't know executive officer of Jimmy Choo, will than on saving costs." in control, but Jenner and her social where you need to go or how to get join the company this summer as Denis' arrival came as a surprise to media following are described as the there because your leadership keeps ceo, replacing current head Pierre employees and Wall Street, though his "motor" of the brand. changing. Many employees will simply Laubies, Coty announced in late appointment as a Coty board member Denis will start after the freeze and bottom-line results suffer." February. He brings experience in in October should perhaps have been professional division is sold, and luxury and in beauty — something the an indicator. The plan, according the company he will walk into is most recent rounds of Coty executives to a source with knowledge of the markedly different than the one have sorely lacked — and is tasked situation, was never to have Laubies Becht worked to build. Coty’s with accelerating sales, which other in place for a long time, but rather Kylie, which just hired Christoph executives have tried to do and failed. to have him tackle the turnaround — Honnefelder as ceo, has the potential Revolving He has the backing of Peter Harf, organization simplification, leverage to go global, which could drive growth, Coty chairman, who told Beauty Inc reduction, etc. — and then hand the but Denis is still inheriting a brand Door Tk Caption that he feels Denis has the right skill reins to someone else who would portfolio with some sizable problems. Since announcing the set — meaning beauty and luxury boost revenues. In February 2019, Coty revealed it acquisition of 41 beauty experience — to drive Coty forward Coty chief financial and chief was taking a $965 million non-cash brands from Procter & and grow the company. operating officer Pierre-André Térisse impairment charge related to the "Pierre Denis has vast global likened the executive switch to a consumer division and Cover Girl and Gamble for $12.5 billion in luxury, cosmetic and fragrance relay race, with Laubies handling Clairol trademarks. Coty sales dipped 2015, Coty has had four experience including in Asia. He is the first leg. "What we need for this by 6.6 percent, to $2.3 billion in the ceo’s: the rare, seasoned beauty executive second part of the race is to have quarter ended Dec. 31, hurt by the Pierre Denis: who is not only a good licensor and somebody with experience of beauty, slumping Consumer segment. Summer 2020 - ? licensee, but who also connects with luxury, Asia, digital, and Pierre Denis That division has struggled before and understands designers. He's got absolutely has this," Terisse said. and during Coty ownership, and Pierre Laubies: the whole nine yards," Harf said. Hiring a growth-oriented leader is brands have lost shelf space. A Cover November 2018 - Harf is also the founder and a tactic Coty has tried before, back Girl re-brand has required further Summer 2020 managing partner of JAB, which owns when former chairman and interim re-branding. The luxury segment 60 percent of Coty. The organization ceo Bart Becht was in charge. In has fared better, but still has issues, Camillo Pane: has drawn criticism for applying 2016, Becht planned to oversee the including Gucci owner Kering July 2016 - November 2018 the strategy it has used in the food integration of 41 P&G beauty brands, publicly vocalizing that the beauty *Elio Leoni Sceti: and beverage industry — financially while then-ceo Camillo Pane, hailed operation hasn't met expectations. Announced April 2015; aggregating businesses to find cost as someone with "an excellent track Coty insiders are hoping that Denis, retracted June 2015 synergies — to the beauty sphere. record of accelerating growth," would who has experience with designers One industry source noted that drive sales gains. and licensing agreements, will be able Bart Becht:

in order to really generate sales, It did not work out so well. to smooth things over. One source September 2014 – July 2016 Photograph by Shutterstock LAST CALL 17 MARCH 13, 2020

Tip #81: Risk-Taking for the Fearful: After learning to live with her fear of public speaking, Blodgett decided to tackle her fear of heights by parachuting out of an airplane. This shot shows her successfully sky-diving — after her first chute failed and the backup opened. Leslie Blodgett's Life Lessons After stepping back from beauty for a couple of years, Leslie Blodgett is back with a book sharing the essential wisdom she gleaned from building a multibillion-dollar business. BY JENNY B. FINE

LESLIE BLODGETT BUILT the perfect platform to sell makeup. spring, she’s back with the publication BareMinerals into a billion-dollar beauty Blodgett became a star, both in business of her first book, “Pretty Good Advice.” brand by tapping into the power of and in front of the camera, eventually Consisting of 97 lessons about life community — long before social media stepping back after bought (#23: You owe it to your coworkers was even a thing. Her story is the stuff the brand for $1.7 billion. For the past not to be boring), love (#96: Marriage of lore: Inspiration struck in the middle few years, she’s been out of the beauty is a multiplex) and beauty of the night, when, sleepless, she tuned limelight investing in female-led brands (#41: The stuff washes off), the book into QVC, bought a set of three stacking and teaching some classes at Stanford is pure Blodgett: funny, frank and rings, and decided she had found Graduate School of Business. This thrumming with energy. Photograph courtesy of Leslie Blodgett