John lliano Ga SHREDDING CHIC AT MAISON MARGIELA

by FIONA TEDDS

28 29 he fashion designer John Galliano is relatively new to social media and is so fascinated by these new forms of communication, photographed, preferring to give particularly Snapchat, that designs collective credit to his team. This from his most recent Artisanal desire for anonymity instantly set collection for the house of Maison breaking point by not only for the mindset him apart from other designers Margiela feature embroidery and the massive work they embodied but also the such as Karl Lagerfeld and Gianni accessories that mimic some of the demands at Dior; extraordinary level of technical Versace, whose labels became wacky and colourful filters that can speculating what the designer he recently discussed how much craftsmanship involved in their synonymous with the excessive be found on the platform. In fact, the whole collection with a reputation for over-the-top happier he was working with production. The label’s Belgian style of the period, whilst the is imbued with so many multi-layered influences, all showmanship would bring to the the smaller Margiela team - his namesake, who left his position Margiela label transcended fashion perfectly melded, that it is clearly evident that not only inherently cool fashion house, ‘kids’ as he refers to them - and in 2009, was one of the ‘Antwerp trends and drew in discerning has Galliano found his footing at Maison Margiela (MM), much of which is owed to the veil the importance of authenticity in Six’, a group of avant-garde clients with a desire for something The is bringing to his work a remarkable new sense of joy of privacy in which it is wrapped. not only his designs but also his fashion designers that counted different and understated. and passion. But it seems that the owner of interactions with those around Dries Van Noten and Anne MM, the Italian entrepreneur him. Demeulemeester amongst its The appointment of John Galliano Galliano’s move to the fashion house came after his well- Renzo Rosso, was right to entrust members. to MM raised eyebrows in the documented and very public breakdown in 2011, an event his business with Galliano; sales Founded in Paris in 1988, fashion world because in his for which the controversial designer certainly had to pay at the iconoclastic house have MM quickly gained a cult-like A private man, Martin Margiela work at his own label and at Dior, penance, losing his position as head of the house of Dior soared and the Margiela show is status with an aesthetic based believed that “the designs should it seemed that Galliano was all and leaving the fashion world wondering what would once again a must-see for anyone on the philosophical theory surpass the designer”; he never things opulent and fantastical; his happen to this dazzlingly talented man. When it was attending Paris Fashion Week. of deconstruction, producing made an appearance at the end shows became known not just for announced in October 2014 that he had been appointed And Galliano himself has a new- garments that appealed to the of house’s fashion shows and the scale of their production but to lead MM, fashionistas worldwide instantly began found peace after being pushed to fashion-conscious intelligentsia never allowed himself to be also for their massive cost,

30 31 while Galliano himself was often trained at Central Saint Martins edges and selvedge remain as work with his dog, Gypsy. He has portrayed as a major player on has always been known for an design features - but now executed embraced imperfection, “glitches” the international party circuit. incredible attention-to-detail with a greater sense of elegance as he calls them, now preferring to Fans of MM wondered how the in his designs, as well as an and drama. We are also slowly view them as a creative opportunity. design house would fare under exceptional level of technicality. seeing some of the Galliano design He has also taken to wearing a the guidance of such a very At MM, Galliano has been given hallmarks, especially bias cuts, white lab coat, something that different type of personality the opportunity to strip back feature on the catwalk. Margiela and his team always from that of its founder. some of the layers and take wore, symbolizing their aspiration a fresh look at the concept of John Galliano seems to have once for the design ethic of a couture But Galliano and Margiela share fashion, using his background in again found happiness; he has his house. Having assumed this mantle, some very similar elements in couture as well as his newfound new muses, his ‘Instagram babes’ Galliano is more than ready to their design philosophies; the curiosity about the world. There as he calls them, and he has time continue guiding Maison Margiela British designer who was is still deconstruction - raw to enjoy the walk to and from into the future.

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