Channel Surfing
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BOUSQUET-CHAVANNE EXITS LAUDER/2 REVLON STILL IN RED/3 Women’sWoWWDmen s WeWWeareara DDailyaily • TTheheh RRetailers’etaileFRIDAYrs DDaily Newspaper • May 2, 2008 • $2.00 Beauty Channel Surfi ng Estée Lauder’s BeautyBank is heading to TV to reinvent its distribution strategy. Eyes by Design, a prestige-priced makeup and treatment line created specifi cally for HSN, launches in July and adds a new selling outlet for the division, previously only in department and specialty stores. Industry sources said the assortment could do $15 million in retail sales by its third year. For more, see page 4. Art Versus Commerce: Can Margiela Expand Without Selling Out? By Miles Socha PARIS — Martin Margiela, the ultimate industry outsider, is trying out a new and unexpected persona: fashion’s next big thing. Twenty years after the Belgian iconoclast founded a fashion house based on deconstruction, cleft-toed boots and a compulsion to cover surfaces with white cotton or paint, his namesake brand is riding high and sailing into new, high-visibility categories like fragrance and fine jewelry. But does the designer’s participation in such expansion activity suggest that finally, Margiela See Margiela’s, Page10 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY DANILO MATZ DANILO THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, MAY 2, 2008 WWD.COM Bousquet-Chavanne Resigns Lauder Post By Pete Born joined the group in 1989 as vice president and gen- eral manager of Aramis International, before lead- n another major jolt at the Estée Lauder Cos., ing the development of the Travel Retail Division. WWDFRIDAY Beauty IPatrick Bousquet-Chavanne has resigned as a After a detour in late 1996 when he became general group president of the prestige market cosmet- manager of international operations for Parfums ics leader after 17 years in the company’s top Christian Dior SA at LVMH Moët Hennessy GENERAL management. Louis Vuitton, Bousquet-Chavanne returned to Martin Margiela, the ultimate industry outsider, is trying out a new and Bousquet-Chavanne could not be reached for Lauder in early 1998 as president of Estée Lauder unexpected persona: fashion’s next big thing. comment Thursday, but in a letter to employees, International Inc. and led the division until 2001. 1 chief executive offi cer William P. Lauder said, “He In his letter, Lauder credited Bousquet- Revlon Inc. continued to whittle away at its debt, narrowing its fi rst- plans to pursue entrepreneurial opportunities Chavanne with developing the travel retail op- 3 quarter net loss to $2.5 million despite slowing sales. outside the industry.” According to knowledge- eration into “a highly successful global branded The Florida sunshine helped NACDS members devise ways to chase able sources, Bousquet-Chavanne will take a top operation with a presence in more than 135 coun- away the storm clouds that for some have marked the fi rst part of 2008. management post with a venture capital-fi nanced, tries and territories.” As president of internation- 6 entertainment-oriented company that is involved al, Lauder added, “Patrick was the catalyst for Russian designer Kira Plastinina kicked off her U.S. retail rollout with with the Internet. His resignation will take effect the successful international expansion [of] MAC 9 openings in New York’s SoHo neighborhood and Stamford, Conn. June 30, according to the letter. Cosmetics and Origins, and the entry of Clinique Diane von Furstenberg has collaborated with Warner Bros. on a line of He is the second group president to leave the into Poland and Vietnam.” apparel and accessories that draws inspiration from Wonder Woman. company in recent months. Philip Shearer re- In 2001, he was named a group president in 13 signed Nov. 30 to join Groupe Clarins as executive charge of the Estée Lauder and MAC brands, Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................14-15 vice president and president of the company’s along with Aramis and the Designer Fragrances executive board. Taken together, the two resig- division. During this period, “he was instrumental To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. nations seem like major tremors in the ongoing, in establishing two regional Product Development seismic cultural transformation that began Nov. Centers in Paris and Tokyo,” the letter said. In [email protected], using the individual’s name. 8, when the family-run company disclosed that it 2005, his responsibilities were refocused to in- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT was reaching outside not only the family, but the clude corporate strategic opportunities, such ©2008 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. company and the industry as well, to tap Fabrizio as Lauder’s entry into the European pharmacy VOLUME 195, NO. 94. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with Freda as its next ceo. Freda, former president of channel with the acquisition of Darphin. He also one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and the Global Snacks Division of Procter & Gamble oversaw the Specialty Brands Division, including November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided Co., joined Lauder on March 3 as president and Crème de la Mer, Bobbi Brown and Jo Malone. by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, chief operating offi cer with the understanding “Patrick will work closely with Fabrizio Freda Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/ that he will move up to ceo within two years. At and me on the smooth transition of his responsi- Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications that time, it is expected that Leonard A. Lauder bilities, and an announcement regarding his di- Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: will step down as chairman, clearing the way for rect reports will be forthcoming,” Lauder said in SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA his son, William, to succeed him, thus propelling the letter without elaboration. 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE Freda into the top spot. A spokeswoman said that no decision has been INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit While the company is clearly repositioning reached on either the question of a possible succes- www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production itself for the future, there have been signs going sor or what changes will be made to the management correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, back two years that Bousquet-Chavanne was be- structure. When Shearer left, he was not replaced. please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other coming restless on his own, long before Lauder Clearly change is in the wind at Lauder. When Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list embarked on its current makeover. William Lauder was asked in November why he available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA In early June 2006, reports surfaced that felt compelled to reach beyond the company’s 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, Bousquet-Chavanne was in the running to suc- deep pool of top marketing talent, he acknowl- OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, ceed Paul Charron as chairman and ceo of Liz edged that his top executives averaged 25 years BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED Claiborne Inc. That proved not to be the case, of experience each. “It brings a great deal of ex- MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR when William L. McComb won the job. perience,” he said then, adding that there is also DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY At Lauder, Bousquet-Chavanne has played a key a danger of “not seeing other opportunities. What A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. role in the company’s international expansion. He Fabrizio brings is another fl avor to our stew.” Union Workers Shut Down West Coast Ports Quote of the Week By Rachel Brown “If there was a magic wand to wave, I’d ockworkers shut down 29 West Coast ports be waving it.” DThursday, including the nation’s biggest at Los Angeles and Long Beach, to protest the war — President Bush on the U.S. economy. in Iraq. An estimated 6,000 members of the International Longshore and Warehouse Union took part in the May Day walkout at ports from San Diego to Seattle, which occurred during the slow season and was anticipated by shippers and In Brief terminal operators.