Issue no: 1147 • MAY 3 - 6, 2019 • PUBLISHED TWICE WEEKLY PRICE: GEL 2.50

In this week’s issue... GeoStat on the State of the FOCUS Georgian Population ON SIGHNAGHI NEWS PAGE 2 A look at the City of Love, past, present and future PAGE 11 United Nations Agencies Present Annual Progress Report for

POLITICS PAGE 4 President Refuses to Veto Controversial Draft on Selection of Judges President of PACE Pays Ceremonial Visit to Georgia POLITICS PAGE 5

BY SAMANTHA GUTHRIE HUAWEI P30 Lite: 3 Cameras with AI & Ultra- iliane Maury Pasquier, the President Wide Shooting Capabilities of the Parliamentary Assembly of the Council of Europe (PACE), conducted SOCIETY PAGE 7 an offi cial working visit to Georgia on April 29 and 30. The visit was made to American Jazz Musician honorL the 20th anniversary of Georgia’s accession to the Council of Europe. While in , she met with several Georgian Michael Zerang to Visit Tbilisi governmental leaders: President Salome Zura- bishvili, Prime Minister Mamuka Bakhtadze, Image source: Council of Europe Speaker of the Parliament Irakli Kobakhidze, Georgia’s institutions, “along with input from contact between peoples. There is the opportu- Minister of Foreign Affairs Davit Zalkaliani and Council of Europe bodies and experts,” the Coun- nity to learn more and take steps forward,” said members of the Georgian delegation to PACE. cil of Europe press agency reports. Maury Pasquier. On Tuesday, Maury Pasquier addressed the Addressing the Georgian Parliament, Maury Later that afternoon, she visited the settlement Georgian Parliament during a session dedicated Pasquier also predicted a strong continuing rela- for IDPs (internally displaced persons) in Tsero- to the 20th anniversary of Georgia's Council of tionship between the parties. “I am sure that this vani and the village of Odzisi on the Administra- Europe accession. During her speech at the Par- close co-operation will be further strengthened tive Boundary Line (ABL) with the occupied liamentary session, she congratulated Georgia on over the next 20 years, that Georgia will continue territory of the Tskhinvali district. Maury Pasquier 20 years of solid progress, saying “Georgia’s acces- to take advantage of our expertise and put our was given detailed information on the situation sion to the Council of Europe 20 years ago was a recommendations into action, and that the Coun- and the ABL and conditions for IDPs living in major step in consolidating democratic institu- cil of Europe will continue to benefi t from Geor- temporary settlements – already for more than tions and a huge boost for reforms in several gia’s experience and achievements,” she said. 10 years now. She made no comments in relation important areas...[since joining the Council of After a closed-door meeting between Kobakh- to the visit. Some oppositional political voices Europe], it is a more stable Georgia, based on idze and Maury Pasquier, in a joint statement to raised the question as to why no visits were strong democratic institutions, that is preparing the press on Monday afternoon, Kobakhidze scheduled between Maury Pasquier and opposi- to chair the Committee of Ministers of the Coun- emphasized the value of the actions undertaken tion parties. “She has not come here to study the CULTURE PAGE 9 cil of Europe from November 2019 to May 2020.” by the Council of Europe in the development of local political situation,” said Vice-Speaker of She highlighted the signifi cant progress made in democracy in Georgia. Maury Pasquier pledged Parliament Tamar Chugoshvili, adding that the Plan Ahead: Zero the fi ght against corruption, judiciary reform, and the Council of Europe’s support for Georgia’s PACE President did not express an interest in “the smooth functioning of Parliament,” noting confl ict resolution processes. “We will continue meeting with the political opposition or civil Compromise Wine Fest 2019 that Georgia’s progress has been due to strong to search for ways to resolve the confl icts in South society representatives, only senior government political will and consistent efforts from all of Ossetia and , especially to establish offi cials during the ceremonial visit. CULTURE PAGE 9 GEORGIA TODAY 2 NEWS MAY 3 - 6, 2019 GeoStat on the State of the Georgian Population

compiled by the State Commission on BY LUCY PAPACHRISTOU Migration Issues, 66% of emigrants lived & THEA MORRISON in urban areas before they left Georgia. Most of the emigrants left from Tbilisi, Imereti and Kvemo Kartli. early 100,000 people emi- The number of applications submitted grated from Georgia in by Georgians for Schengen Area visas 2018, according to new nearly doubled between 2010 and 2016, data compiled by the from 59,275 to 106,024, according to the National Statistics Offi ce migration profi le. ofN Georgia (GeoStat). A 15.8% increase In a further report, Geostat has revealed from the previous year, the 98,935 emi- that Georgia’s population has decreased grants represent 2.66% of the entire by 0.2% and amounted to 3,723,500 as of population of Georgia, some 3.72 million January 1, 2019. people. The agency says that 52% of the popu- Additionally, the number of immigrants lation is female and 48% male. Of these, to Georgia increased by 5.9%, a total of 14.8% of the population is of age 65 and 88,152 persons. The majority of both emi- older. The share of persons aged from grants (86.6%) and immigrants (84.5%) zero to 14 stands at 20.3% and the share are of working age (15-64 years old). of the working-age population (15-64 Recent surveys, however, suggest that years old) equals 64.9%. most Georgians do not favor permanent In addition, life expectancy was an emigration. The results of the Caucasus average of 74 years in 2018. For male, the Barometer 2017, an annual household average life expectancy was 69.7 years survey conducted by the Caucasus and for female – 78.2 years. Research Resource Center, found that “2018 resulted in a positive natural 90% of respondents were not currently increase (4,614) and negative net migra- interested in leaving Georgia perma- tion (-10,783)”, said Geostat. nently. 55%, however, were interested in The agency also reports that 58.7% of leaving temporarily. the population lives in cities and 41.3% tion lives in the capital of Georgia, Tbi- Kartli, 433,200; Ajara, 349,000; Samegrelo- 154,100; Guria, 109,000; Mtskheta-Mti- According to 2014 census data used in in rural areas. lisi: 1.2 million people. This is followed Zemo Svaneti, 316,200; Kakheti, 312,500; aneti, 93,600; Racha-Lechkhumi and the 2017 Migration Profi le of Georgia, The majority of the Georgian popula- by the Imereti region, 497,400; Kvemo Shida Kartli, 257,300; Samtskhe-Javakheti, Kvemo Svaneti, 29,700. Another "Stalin" Grave Found in Batumi victims of the Soviet terror. BY THEA MORRISON The governmental com- mission is headed by Ajara Healthcare Minister Zaal he fi fth mass Mikeladze. The graves are grave, alleg- being studied by both arche- edly of the vic- ologists and scientists. tims of the On April 5, on the offi cial 1937-1938 website of the Batumi and TSoviet repressions, has been Lazeti Eparchy, it was discovered in Georgia’s declared that the remains Black Sea coastal city of of corpses had been found Batumi, announced the state in four mass graves in commission created to study Batumi. the corpses discovered in The Batumi and Lazeti Batumi. Eparchy stated the place “On the same territory where the graves were found where we discovered four had been given to the Patri- other graves, we have found archate of Georgia for tem- another, which we have yet porary use, and noted that to open as we are waiting the graves contained a total for the specialists,” cleric of of 150 human remains. the Batumi and Lazeti dio- The statement reads that cese, Pirimze Rurua, said. with the cooperation of the He added that coins issued Ministry of Health, a base in 1935 were found in previ- of DNA of the remains will ously found graves, which be created and an examina- leads to the belief that the tion of the corpses can be Photo source: Batumelebi burial site belongs to the done at any time. SUBSCRIBE!

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GEORGIA TODAY 4 POLITICS MAY 3 - 6, 2019 Ruslan Abashidze Made New Head of Abkhazia’s Government in Exile

According to Ruslan Abashidze, in the BY THEA MORRISON next few days he will present an action plan and will begin to form his own cab- inet. Breakaway Abkhazia is Georgia’s irst Deputy State Minister for territory, currently occupied by the Rus- Reconciliation and Civic sian Federation. It is recognized as a state Equality of Georgia, Ruslan by only Russia, Venezuela, Nicaragua, Abashidze, has become the Nauru and Syria. new Head of the legitimate While Georgia lacks control over Abk- GovernmentF of Abkhazia, which is in hazia, the Georgian government and exile in Tbilisi. nearly all United Nations member states Abashidze became the Head of Abk- consider the region as legally part of hazia’s government after the former head, Georgia, whose constitution designates Vakhtang Kolbaia, stepped down after the area as the Autonomous Republic of holding the post since 2013. Abkhazia. The Tbilisi-based Supreme Council of The status of breakaway Abkhazia is a Abkhazia, which has been in exile since top issue of the Georgian–Abkhazian the armed confl ict in the early 1990s, confl ict and Georgia–Russia relations. decided to elect Abashidze during its The region had autonomy within Soviet sitting on May 1. Georgia at the time when the Soviet The decision to appoint a new head Union began to fall apart in the late 1980s. follows the appointment of a new chair- In 1992–1993 there was a civil war in man of the Supreme Council, Jemal Abkhazia which resulted in Georgia's Gamakharia, who replaced Elguja loss of control of most of the territory, Gvazava, serving since 2009. the de facto independence of Abkhazia, The new Head of Abshazia’s Govern- and the ethnic cleansing of Georgians ment in Exile will be part of the Georgian there. Despite the 1994 ceasefi re agree- delegation at the Geneva International ment and years of negotiations, the dis- Discussions, the only format of an inter- pute remains unresolved. national dialogue between Georgia and The situation got worse during the Russia since the 2008 August War. 2008 Georgia-Russia August war, where Image source: 1TV Abashidze served as the Deputy State Abkhaz forces fought against Georgia, Minister for Reconciliation and Civic at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Abashidze confi rmed that he and Zura- ers’ question as to who nominated him to which led to the formal recognition of Equality from January 2019. He was the Abashidze is, as of going to print, the bishvili are friends and have had a good the post, saying it was “Abkhazian society.” Abkhazia by Russia, the annulment of Ambassador of Georgia to Estonia in “Acting Head” of the Abkhazian govern- relationship but he denied the Presi- Ruslan Abashidze, along with his wife the 1994 ceasefi re agreement, and the 2009-2013, prior to which he served as ment until the President of Georgia, dent’s involvement in his selection by and organizer of the Tbilisi Fashion termination of the UN mission on the the Deputy State Minister for Reintegra- Salome Zurabishvili, approves his appoint- the Council. Week, former model Tako Chkheidze, territory. tion in 2006-2009. ment. After his selection by the Supreme “I confi rm that I am a close friend of were among Salome Zurabishvili's On 28 August 2008, the Parliament of He was an adviser to the Permanent Council of Abkhazia, there were rumors Salome Zurabishvili: we have known donors during October presidential Georgia declared Abkhazia a Russian- Representative of Georgia to Switzerland that Abashidze’s appointment was each other for a long time, but this fac- elections. On September 28, 2018, he occupied territory, a stance supported and Deputy Director of the Department requested by President Zurabishvili, as tor is not related to my position," he said. and his wife together donated GEL 59,958 by the vast majority of the international of Relations with the European Union the two have been friends for a long time. Abashidze also responded to the report- to Zurabishvili. community. United Nations Agencies Present Annual Progress Report for Georgia

he United Nations Country zation has played a signifi cant role in it. Team in Georgia organized “Georgia remains committed to the a presentation of its achieve- UN and its mission,” the PM said. “The ments in 2018 and its pri- Joint Strategy, Partnership for Sustain- orities for 2019-2020 to mark able Development, agreed by and between Tprogress in pursuing the joint strategy the UN and the Government of Georgia, agreed with the Government for 2016- covers fi ve priority areas: democratic 2020. The event was designed to under- governance; job creation, living stand- score the commitment by the UN agen- ards and social security; education and cies to “Deliver as One” in alignment healthcare; security and protection of with national priorities and the Sustain- citizens. The Joint Strategy fully com- able Development Goals. The govern- plies with the commitments and values ment was invited to validate the UN of the Government of Georgia. In addi- results and provide feedback on future tion, priorities defi ned for 2019-2020 plans. within the Joint Strategy are attuned Mamuka Bakhtadze, Prime Minister of with sector-specifi c policies and the cur- Georgia, in his speech delivered at the rent reform agenda of my government, Joint Steering Committee Meeting of the thus enabling us to achieve greater suc- United Nations and Government of cess in the effective implementation of Georgia, stressed the effective and effi - reforms and due delivery of the under- cient cooperation with the UN and 16 of takings.” its system agencies while noting that UN Resident Coordinator Louisa Vin- support and engagement of the organi- ton explained that the 16 UN agencies

active in Georgia covered a wide range Jobs, livelihoods and social protection; 3) school and primary teaching; of areas but that all UN efforts were Education; 4) Health; and 5) Human secu- • Adapting the VET system to diversify united under a shared commitment “to rity and community resilience. rural occupations and help professional- leave no-one behind,” the overarching Among the many achievements sup- ize farming; motto of the Sustainable Development ported by the UN system in 2018 were: • Providing humanitarian assistance Goals. Vinton noted that, at $41.6 million • Assisting the Parliament in undertak- to at-risk groups in confl ict-affected for 2018, the UN fi nancial contribution ing its new role in the political system; regions; and to development efforts in Georgia was • Adoption of a new Labor Safety Law; • Launching a $70 million program to signifi cant, and that total UN annual • Providing free legal aid to 50,000 reduce the risk of fl oods and other nat- spending was likely to exceed $50 mil- persons; ural disasters. lion in 2019 and 2020. She underlined • Promoting mediation and arbitration Organized by the United Nations Offi ce the gratitude of the UN system for the as alternative dispute resolution mech- in Georgia, the event brought together generous support received from the anisms; representatives of the Georgian govern- donor community. • Adopting a new Tobacco Law to fi ght ment, Parliament, civil society, diplo- UN achievements were presented in fi ve the harm to health caused by smoking; matic missions and international organ- main areas: 1) Democratic governance; 2) • Supporting improvements in pre- izations. GEORGIA TODAY MAY 3 - 6, 2019 POLITICS 5 President Refuses to Georgia – Veto Controversial Producer of Leaders Image source: tobiachudume.com Draft on Selection be “up there.” OP-ED BY NUGZAR B. RUHADZE Lower societal levels could be a reason for pes- simism in our career-hungry minds. I don't know what makes us so terribly proud of ourselves, but he Easter vacation is over but the hol- an average Georgian, especially men, crave to rule of Judges iday mood is still on, and I have decided the roost, feeling like a cock on a dunghill even if to wax jocose rather than remain seri- the dunghill is not his own. A typical Georgian ous because soberness does not suit man would not give up a leader's place in the fam- the elevated Easter mood. There goes ily even if he is not making money. And the family aT joke that Georgia is not capable of giving much to would allow it. This is the tradition, strongly main- the world, but the nation is proud to be a manufac- tained in our culture. turer of presidents and prime ministers. Surprised? From a regular shrink’s viewpoint, this could be One might surely be astonished to hear that a coun- preconditioned by certain psychological fragments try had such a role, but there is a curious thought from a Georgian male’s childhood, adolescence or buried in these words. Indeed, this is a culture that youth, the most vivid among them being the famous rears leader-type personalities in abundance; those tamada (toastmaster) institution. All Georgian men with an ambition to rule, to give instruction and to want to be the tamada; at least subconsciously, boss around. I am not saying that we are lazy – lan- because the tamada is a leader, he is a tone-giver, guidness is not the main feature of our character determiner, decision-maker and fi nally, the subject and indolence is not venerated here. As a matter of of veneration, provided he is good enough at his fact, we have nothing against sweat but we also like job. Great tamadas want to be political leaders and to be at the helm rather than in front of a furnace vice versa: great political leaders have a propensity with a spade in our weathered hands; labor is OK to function as a toastmaster. for us but an executive chair feels more comfortable; I’m not saying this is good or bad. What I’m try- running errands for somebody else is not an embar- ing to drive home is that presidents, prime minis- rassment, but having people in attendance is always ters, kings, emperors and tamadas are deep-seated more attractive; chauffeuring a master's car could in the character of the regular Georgian male, and earn a piece of bacon but sprawling on the back seat many of them self-train to achieve those heights of your own limo is more relaxing; being a security in real life. The gist of the matter is that a leader, detail for a prime minister is a bearable job but a boss, a chief, a commander, a principal, a superior, enjoying state-funded security is any man’s dream; are naturally nursed in an average Georgian man, writing speeches for a president is OK but making so we can stop building factories, desist from work- that same speech from a shiny rostrum is undoubt- ing in farmlands, forget about science and technol- edly more thrilling. ogy, discontinue services and end the production These are sensitive differences, sitting miles apart of goods, and start producing national leaders like in the imagination of any person of any nationality, presidents, prime ministers and chairmen to sell but the Georgian fancy is even more susceptible them to other countries – not for cheap, of course! towards those moral and material gaps because the I would experiment with this out-of-the-ordinary sturdiest part of an average Georgian’s dream is to commodity. What are we losing, after all? Image source: freepic.com

BY THEA MORRISON

eorgian President Salome Zurabishvili signed the controversial bill on the The GD needs to selection and appointment of Supreme Court judges on Thursday, which was realize they need an adopted by the ruling Georgian Dream G(GD) parliamentary majority on May 1. independent court Despite the requests from the non-governmental Council of Justice nominated 10 candidate judges sector and opposition parties to veto the bill, the for the Supreme Court of Georgia for life tenure. president decided to sign it. The list was rejected by the non-judge members “The amendments will facilitate a more open, of the HCOJ, NGOs and some members of the transparent selection of the Supreme Court judges, majority, who claimed that the presented judges and the President expresses her hope that it will had been working during the previous government positively affect the confi dence in the judiciary,” and had the reputation of being “biased and cor- the President's Administration said. rupt.” The amendments set procedures and criteria for The recent developments surrounding the issue the selection of candidates for the posts of Supreme also caused disagreement within the ruling party, Court Judge, the qualifi cation requirements of seeing some prominent members leave who did judges and the procedure for nominating candi- not support the Kobakhidze-initiated draft, adding dates selected by the High Council of Justice, to it was not decent and transparent enough. Parliament. The amendments were supported by After the fi nal voting on May 1, one more GD MP, 87 MPs while 33 MPs voted against the draft. Levan Koberidze, left the Georgian Dream. Kob- Before the vote, the parliamentary opposition eridze said that the bill drafted by the ruling party demanded the return of the legislative package to MPs fails to ensure the fair selection of judges and a second hearing. The majority refused. noted he would stay in the legislative body as an Parliament adopted the bill with the second hear- independent MP. ing on April 19, after the Venice Commission issued GD faction Chair Mamuka Mdinaradze says Kob- recommendations. In the fi nal version adopted on eridze had a different opinion about the bill from Wednesday, some recommendations of the Venice the beginning, adding it is very sad that he decided Commission have been refl ected, namely the note to quit the party. that a High Council of Justice member who runs “Lately, Koberidze was a GD member only for- for judge, must be banned from voting and that the mally…It is a shame that he linked his departure qualifi cation examination for Supreme Court judge from the party to the issue of judges. This is part candidates will be abolished. of a political game,” said Mdinaradze. The adopted draft was initiated by Parliament The United National Movement (UNM) claims Speaker Irakli Kobakhidze and his co-thinkers from the adoption of the draft by the parliamentary the GD, who claim their project “has no analogue majority is “shameful.” in any European Union country and guarantees Party member Tinatin Bokuchava says it was the that ultimately, Parliament will elect honest and decision of the “informal ruler” and founder of the highly qualifi ed judges to the Supreme Court.” GD, Bidzina Ivanishvili, adding he aims at “totally The issue became controversial after the High infl uencing the court system.” The European Georgia party is of the same posi- tion. They call on society to think carefully before voting in the 2020 parliamentary elections. The NGOs were expecting that Zurabishvili not to veto the bill. Analyst Vakhushti Menabde said “if the President had vetoed the bill and called on Parliament to take 87 MPs for, 33 MPs into account her remarks, it would have been good.” “The GD needs to realize that they also need an against independent court,” he added. GEORGIA TODAY 6 POLITICS MAY 3 - 6, 2019 Sharing Is Caring: But Can Ivanishvili Do It? we talking about when there are no two OP-ED BY ZAZA JGARKAVA parties of similar size? Talking about a coalition has become like fl irting. What would the basis for this coalitional gov- ay 19 is approaching ernment be? If they can make decisions and the battle for one without each other, then it is unclear vacant mandate, fi ve why they would want to form a coalition. mayors of different This is what they haven’t thought about. towns and eight places We have a country governed by a single inM the city councils is entering the fi nal party, so in this case, how do they imag- stage. Although the elections are hap- ine a coalitional government working?” pening in different regions, political Sakvarelidze asked. experts think that Zugdidi will be the Constitutionalist Vakhtang Dzabiradze center prone to the biggest confronta- is also pessimistic about the success of tions, with Sandra Roelofs, the wife of such a scheme, noting that a coalitional ex-President Saakashvili, running for the government should not be the main goal, mayoral post against the governmental because forming it would depend on the candidate in the capital of the Samegrelo election results in the event that neither region. of the political powers has enough man- Zugdidi has been the Waterloo for dates to complete the government. “If many governments throughout history. anyone is really thinking about fi xing It was the very city where the fi rst and the situation in the country, they should second presidents of Georgia lost their be thinking about forming a government positions and where rising star of Geor- which will be both very active and very gian politics and the Georgian Dream appealing to the majority of its citizens, was defeated. And there rather than thinking about forming a Image source: 1tv.ge were many others for whom elections coalitional government,” Dzabiradze in this city proved fatal, which is why ernmental candidate has been talking it as early as a year ahead could mean Abashidze said. opined. the upcoming elections there are espe- about sorting the problems in education that the governing party is facing a seri- Who will that “lucky person” be with Whether the Georgian Dream will be cially interesting. The fact that Zugdidi and social welfare. From time to time, ous dilemma. Just who does the govern- whom the governmental party decides able to form a coalition at all will be seen could be decisive for Georgian Dream he has even discussed the pros and cons mental party plan to form the coalition to work? Logically, that political power in future. Yet, it is quite diffi cult to believe is also obvious from the fact that Bidizna of a coalitional government. So, presum- with? Gia Abashidze, a political analyst should be the United National Move- that Ivanishvili will be ready to share Ivanishvili himself has been seen there ably, it has fi nally occurred to the Dream- who is quite close to the governmental ment, because it will be the second party the governmental powers with somebody recently. Moreover, the government’s ers that the theme of Saakashvili and circles, says Ivanishvili is serious about getting the most votes. Maybe it will else, or even to make a deal with them candidate running for Mayor, Giorgi his downsides has expired, and the it: “It is highly possible that a coalitional work the other way around and it will in order to create an entourage of shar- Shengelia, was introduced to the local electorate is desperately in need of nov- government will be formed out of the be the National Movement that needs ing. Most likely, the coalitional govern- public by some of the most infl uential elty. constructive opposition. We do not know coupling up with the Dream. ment scenario will in reality be part of GD members. What is most striking in Nevertheless, it is quite confusing that how the political power balance will be Political expert Ramaz Sakvarelidze the same old-same old, as we witnessed the pre-election campaign is that instead they started talking about a coalitional divided in 2020, but numerous changes says that the situation is diffi cult, as the when Salome Zurabishvili was declared of ranting about the “bloody nine years” government, as forming one would only will happen. Plenty of people will join party behind the idea of the coalition an independent candidate and who today and “cannibal Nazis” of the United be possible after the results of the elec- and be resurrected in politics. Who will does not quite understand the essence is nothing more than a source of bother National Movement, this time the gov- tions of 2020 are known. Talking about stand where and how [is the question],” of a coalition itself. “What coalition are to the Dreamers. Revenue Service Director Attends Belt & Road Initiative Forum

Streets in Gldani Are mented in the countries of the Silk Road. TRANSLATED BY KETEVAN The heads of tax and customs adminis- KVARATSKHELIYA trations of different countries were involved in the working process of the Forum. The given event is a high-level platform, organ- n April 25-27, Vakhtang ized within the Belt and Road Initiative Getting a New Look Lashkaradze, Director cooperation, which represents the best General of the Revenue opportunity for sharing experience and communications here have never been the district is tied with Samgori, in the BY LUCY PAPACHRISTOU Service of Georgia par- expanding communications. In addition, replaced,” Tbilisi Mayor Kakha Kaladze southeast, as the most populous area ticipated in the 2nd Belt the aim of the Forum is to enhance the said. The entire stretch of the road, some of the city, according to government andO Road Initiative Forum. partnership between the countries and eight kilometers, is in “critical condi- fi gures. A number of important issues were develop collaboration between the busi- ehabilitation of two main tion,” he added. Drainage and wastewa- The proposed budget of the project is covered at the Forum, including the trade ness circles. On April 18, Lashkaradze also streets in the Gldani district ter systems, as well as outdoor lighting US$4.43 million (12 million GEL). Geor- policy, development of the relevant infra- participated in the Tax Administration of Tbilisi, Vekua and Khi- and sidewalks will be completely gian Water and Power (GWP) will invest structure, economic aspects and other Cooperation Forum of the Belt and Road zanishvili streets, has begun, revamped. The work is expected to take $1.1 million (3 million GEL) in the pro- high-tech challenges. The participants initiative, held in Wuzhen, China, where Tbilisi City Hall announced roughly six months. ject. of the event had a chance to share their he signed the founding document of the inR a press release. Gldani covers some 50.3 square kilo- The mayor apologized to local residents views regarding the innovations and Belt and Road Initiative Tax Administra- “It is a very important project on its meters in the northeast corner of the for any inconvenience caused by the mechanisms for the trade support, imple- tion Cooperation Mechanism. own, since the existing underground city. With 17% of the Tbilisi population, construction. GEORGIA TODAY MAY 3 - 6, 2019 SOCIETY 7 HUAWEI P30 Lite: 3 Cameras with AI & Ultra-Wide Shooting Capabilities

The HUAWEI P30 Lite offers Georgian custom- sor, the HUAWEI P30 Lite represents the best choice ers a camera system with artifi cial intelligence and for users of multifunctional smartphones. ultra-wide shooting capabilities. The chance to get The HUAWEI P30 Lite continues the innovative the highest-quality images awakens enthusiasm design line and is available in black, blue and pearl among youth to take better pictures and share them globally, but in Georgia in only in two colors: black with friends, as well as family members. and electric blue. The HUAWEI P lite is made for The HUAWEI P30 Lite is equipped with 48MP the international elites and professionals who love and wide capabilities of the HUAWEI P30 Lite main and 8MP ultra-wide vision cameras, each with fashion. These users never cease to act boldly and BY KETEVAN KVARATSKHELIYA camera enable youngsters to fully refl ect the best unique characteristics and capabilities. For example, creatively, and they are open to new things, con- moments of their lives. the telephoto lens is absolutely incredible for out- stantly chasing the trends. In a competitive environ, HUAWEI always cares lining the details, while the wide vision camera HUAWEI products and services are available in ore operating memory, stronger about its customers and offers them unique smart- enables the integration of more details in one image. more than 170 countries and are used by a third of battery, a camera system with phones, which, along with a number of functional Traveling with different lenses is a challenge for the world's population. There are 16 research and artifi cial intelligence and increased and design features, are modern, innovative, attrac- photography enthusiasts which is why they often development centers operating worldwide in the display resolution – these are the tive and affordable. This time the offer is no less use their smartphones to take pictures. The HUA- USA, Germany, Sweden, Russia, India and China. features what needs young gen- enchanting, and on purchasing a 899 GEL HUAWEI WEI P30 Lite camera is distinguished with various HUAWEI Consumer BG is one of three business Merations want; those who love traveling and cap- P30 Lite, customers will also get a selection of smart zoom and shooting possibilities. The double cam- units of HUAWEI, mainly focusing on the produc- turing interesting moments spent with friends. The gadgets, including a Bluetooth speaker or Color era module in addition to the ultra-wide lens, tion of smartphones, personal computers, tablets latest HUAWEI P30 Lite, with a sophisticated design Band A2. The HUAWEI smartphones are available enables customers to capture the beauty of the and cloud services. The HUAWEI Global Network and triple camera, is dedicated to photography in the company’s partner chain stores. universe, as well as the wonderful moments of is based on 20 years of experience in the telecom- enthusiasts and those who love sharing their works With the triple camera confi guration, the HUAWEI everyday life. munications business and serves to the production with friends and family. P series smartphones are considered one of the best With the joint work of the 128 GB internal memory, of innovative technologies to customers around The high characteristics of artifi cial intelligence smartphone family among photography circles. EMUI 9.0.1 internal interface and Kirin 710 proces- the world. Gov’t to Restore Krtsanisi Forest Park The presentation of the biodiversity restoration BY THEA MORRISON program was held by Minister of Environmental Protection and Agriculture Levan Davitashvili. According to the Minister, two agencies of the ithin the framework of the state Ministry of Environmental Protection and Agri- program for biodiversity recov- culture - the Environmental Information and Edu- ery, launched on May 1, the cation Center and the National Wildlife Agency - government will start restora- will be housed in the park in future. tion and development of the Prime Minister of Georgia Mamuka Bakhtadze WKrtsanisi forest park, located near Georgia’s capi- also delivered a speech at the presentation, noting tal city of Tbilisi. that the key idea behind the Krtsanisi Forest Park

development is to preserve biodiversity and enhance public awareness about environmental principles. Bakhtadze stressed that the green space in Krt- sanisi Forest Park needs proper attention and res- toration. He said an “irresponsible policy imple- mented for years, ignoring the principles of environmental protection,” had led to a diffi cult reality. The PM recalled the Green Economy Concept, announced a few months ago, saying its main idea is green policy and green economy. “Environmental protection is a priority in every initiative. Caring for nature is the duty of every Georgian citizen…We are launching a far-reaching project that is poised to make both us and future generations proud. We are about to restore and develop the Krtsanisi Forest Park. We will create a genuine natural museum here to feature not only local fl ora and fauna but also plants from the Red List,” he said, adding it is very important in terms of preserving and protecting biodiversity in this region. Bakhtadze noted that at the same time the natu- ral function of the Krtsanisi Forest Park will be restored to serve as a recreation area connecting Tbilisi and Rustavi. Restrictions will apply to transport and only pedestrians, bikes, and electric cars will be allowed onto the territory.

Environmental protection is a priority in every initiative GEORGIA TODAY 8 SOCIETY MAY 3 - 6, 2019 Easter Thoughts: Etseri, Svaneti

forever, I despair at how bad it might BLOG BY TONY HANMER get before then. Messy, ugly, terrify- ingly confused and deceptive, upside down and backwards, with all bad his year has been one of things called good and vice versa. Our the many when, if you very conscience, our innate moral com- miss one Easter, you can pass, ruined. Simple greed calling the try again, due to the dif- shots. Easter still has ferent dates for the holiday If this sounds overly pessimistic, it’s observedT by Eastern Orthodox and what my perusing of the internet has meaning, that Western churches around the world. I led me to. found myself in such a situation, away The number and type of scenarios light will shine from my wife for the Western one, available for our destruction are ridic- together for the Eastern. ulous. “ApocAIlypse”. Global warming and overcome Both dates were badly troubled by and fl ooding, “climocalypse”. Super- the world’s current insane trends of hackers. Nuclear renegades, either darkness violence and terrorism. The ongoing state-level or smaller scale. Bio-disas- deadly tit for tat between “Christian” ter, deliberately human-caused or acci- to mind, to love, to art, if not spirit? racist nationalists and extremist Mus- dental. Solar-fl are EMP. If the fi rst Christmas is the start of lims, both claiming to have the purest Political unrest, civil and interstate Light taking human form on Earth, interpretations of their religions, does war. Racism, sexism, traffi cking, our Easter is the culmination of the battle nothing to improve their standing in insatiable appetite for women and ever three decades later, although the enemy people’s eyes in general. younger children to enslave in various of God either does not know it yet or Neither do traditions which have ways. Mass extinction of whole vital is taking all he can get until his fate encrusted them since the founding of groups like the insects. One good meteor rushes to meet him. This, and little each but are often far from, or even strike. else, gives meaning to my life in what directly contrary to, their received All I can do is remind myself what I feels like an incoming storm which will scriptures. do, stubbornly and desperately, believe: shake everything (everything which Given the state of the world now that Easter still has meaning, that light can be shaken, that is). It allows me (where do I begin to describe it?), even will shine in and overcome darkness, even to contemplate that my own life as an unswayed believer that God actu- that the One who seems impossibly far given in sacrifi ce to what I believe, ally will set all things everywhere right away and disinterested in our petty never done lightly but done if called affairs on a planet rendered microscopic for, would also not be a waste or an in comparison with the universe, CARES unused event. If love truly does con- and will set it all right. Not just us frail, quer all, as the Book I believe says it evil-bent humans, but all of creation does, what else is there to say? itself, the whole shebang, which cur- rently groans to be perfected. Such Tony Hanmer has lived in Georgia since prophecies, as mythologically impos- 1999, in Svaneti since 2007, and been sible-sounding as fairy tales in this a weekly writer for GT since early 2011. Given the state of breathtakingly advancing 21st century, He runs the “Svaneti Renaissance” Face- remain my anchor. book group, now with nearly 2000 mem- the world now, I I still love science, the very scientifi c bers, at www.facebook.com/groups/ method of reasoning, hypothesis, test- SvanetiRenaissance/ despair at how ing, discovery and reiteration; but I He and his wife also run their own guest refuse to believe that this, what we can house in Etseri: bad it might get sense, is all there is. What gives rise www.facebook.com/hanmer.house.svaneti GEORGIA TODAY MAY 3 - 6, 2019 CULTURE 9 American Jazz Musician Michael Zerang to Visit Tbilisi

Image source - Wikimedia Commons ers, dance and puppet shows during his The jazz scene in Tbilisi is small but BY AMY JONES career. His success saw him win three healthy. Bars such as Jazz Cafe Singer Joseph Jefferson Awards for Original on Sioni Street regularly host talented Musical Composition in 1996, 1998 and jazz musicians for live performances. In t the end of May, renowned 2000. He went on to become the artistic addition, the annual Tbilisi Jazz Festival American jazz percussion- director of the Link’s Hall Performance took place 28 February - 2 March 2019, ist Michael Zerang will visit series in Chicago from 1985 - 1989 where celebrating its twelfth year. Tbilisi for the fi rst time. he produced over 300 performances of On 30 April 2019, Tbilisi also celebrated During his visit, he will jazz, traditional ethnic folk music, elec- International Jazz Day with a concert by Aconduct improvised music workshops tronic music, as well as other progressive Irakli and the Louis Ambassadors, a and perform live shows in the capital. musical forms. French jazz band. The performance, Born in Chicago in the US in 1958 to More recently, he has turned his atten- which took place in Tbilisi Conserva- an Iranian father and Iraqi mother, Zerang tion to teaching various aspects of musi- toire’s Grand Hall, was organized by the has been working as a professional musi- cal performance. He has taught as a guest Ministry of Education, Science, Culture cian, composer, and producer since 1976. artist at The School of the Arts Institute and Sport of Georgia, the French Embassy After graduating from Wilbur Wright of Chicago, at The Dance Center at in Georgia and the Tbilisi State Con- College and Roosevelt College, he began Columbia College, at Northwestern Uni- servatoire. to tour around the world, focusing on versity, and the MoMing Dance and Arts Aside from successful concerts, the improvised music, free jazz, contempo- Center. Georgian jazz scene has also produced rary composition, as well as international On 29 - 30 May, Zerang will bring his talented musicians. For example, Beka musical forms. musical skills to Tbilisi and will host a Gochiashvili, a young Georgian pianist, Since the beginning of his musical workshop and live gig at the Ikalto Micro has gained international acclaim and career, he has recorded more than 120 Art Residence, a newly opened space performed across North America, includ- albums with important American jazz for artists on Zaza Panaskertel-Tsitshvili ing at the Montreux Jazz Festival in 2008. musicians such as Dave Rempis and Street. The two three-hour sessions are Zerang’s visit to Georgia should con- Hamid Drake as well as international designed to help profi cient musicians to tinue to encourage jazz musicians and artists such as German musician Axel explore improvisation by studying tech- equip them with useful performance Dorner and Swiss percussionist Fredy niques, textures, timbres, breathing, skills. The workshop begins at 7 pm on Studer. performance, and strategies of improv- 29 May and musicians should bring their He has also worked closely with theat- isation. own instruments. Plan Ahead: Zero Compromise Wine Fest 2019

BY NINI DAKHUNDARIDZE

f you’re a wine-lover, we’ve got great news for you. On May 10, with the support of the LEPL National Wine Agency, the Asso- ciation of Natural Wine will be Ihosting the annual Natural Wine Fair “ZERO COMPROMISE”. Up to 70 natural wine cellars who are part of the association will participate in the festival. In addition, natural win- emakers from other countries plan to take part in the fair. The festival will be held at the former silk factory at 59 Kostava Street, guaranteeing an atmos- pheric location to host your choice of wine from around the country! Tickets cost 30 GEL. Tickets will also be available at the door in limited amount. GEORGIA TODAY 10 CULTURE MAY 3 - 6, 2019

WHAT’S ON IN TBILISI THEATER Directed by Kakha Bakuradze our collection of holograms, look KOLGA TBILISI PHOTO ELECTRO CARRIAGE Start time: 20:00 closer at every optical illusion and BUILDING FACTORY Ticket: 10-15 GEL observe thoroughly each installation. 4 May – 29 June 4 K. Cholokashvili III turn. TBILISI ZAKARIA PALIASHVILI OPERA AND Tickets: 17.5 GEL, Children (ages Kunsthalle Tbilisi and Goethe- MUSIC & DRAMA STATE May 8 BALLET THEATER 6-18): 11 GEL, children (under 5 Institute Georgia present THEATER MONUMENT: STEPHAN 25 Rustaveli Ave. years): free, students: 13 GEL, family TABULA RASA 182 Agmashenebeli Ave. BODZIN, NICOLAS MASSEYEFF TEL (+995 32) 2 99 04 56 (2 adults + 2 children): 39 GEL. Exhibition of stainless steel sculptures by Gabriela Von Start time: 23:00 May 7 MUSEUM OF BROKEN Habsburg. Ticket: 50 GEL May 4 WELCOME TO GEORGIA RELATIONSHIPS Exhibition includes works by: FROM EASTER TO ASCENSION The Musical GALA CONCERT 10 Betlemi Str. Giorgi Geladze, Salome VI PAVILION A musical, theatrical play and 10 S. Akhmeteli Str. The 14th International Festival romantic comedy telling a story Chigilashvili, Liza Tsindeliani, opening ceremony about Georgia and its people by Until June 15 Giorgi Vardiashvili Participants: Iano Alibegashvili, THE MUSEUM OF BROKEN Curated by: Irena Popiashvili May 8 combining song, dance, culture, OLIVER HUNTEMANN TADE Giuseppe Gipali, The Tbilisi Opera traditions, history, national RELATIONSHIPS Venue: GNM Courtyard, and Ballet Theater choir and orchestra The exhibition fi rst launched in 3 Shota Rustaveli Ave. COSMIC LOVE ROTATION costumes and local cuisine. Start time: 23:30 Conductor: Attilio Tomasello Start time: 20:00 Zagreb, Croatia, in 2006. Ticket: 30-40 GEL Start time: 19:00 Ticket: 50-80 GEL The concept of the museum is to May 5 Ticket: 10-150 GEL bring together items connected to GRAZIANO ARICI- TALES OF ELEKTROWERK MUSEUM previous relationships in one space, VENICE 1 Monk Gabriel Salosi I Turn SHALIKASHVILI THEATER including clothes, accessories, and Curator: Tina Shelhorn 37 Rustaveli Ave. GEORGIAN NATIONAL photo and video sources. May 4 MUSEUM SIMON JANASHIA The unique collection of the VIGEN VARTANOV- IMMERSION STEFAN BINIAK May 3 MUSEUM museum aims to provoke INTO THE WORLD OF IMAGES THE OLD MAN AND THE SEA 3 Rustaveli Ave. Start time: 23:30 feelings of understanding among TALES OF ISTALNDS – Ticket: 25 GEL Based on Ernest Hemingway’s novel TEL (+995 32) 299 80 22, 293 48 21 individuals and serve as some Kate Mellor, Osamu James Start time: 20:00 www.museum.ge kind of therapy for those who have Nakagawa, Studio Marc Räder, SPACEHALL Ticket: 15 GEL experienced break-ups. Sanne De Wilde/ NOOR Exhibitions: 2 Tsereteli Ave. Curator: Tina Shelhorn GABRIADZE THEATER NUMISMATIC TREASURY EXPERIMENTORIUM Opening: 19:00 13 Shavtelis St. EXHIBITION STONE AGE May 4 KIDS’ SCIENCE MUSEUM Venue: I. Grishashvili Tbilisi History TEL (+995 32) 2 98 65 93 GEORGIA DECODER: BLACK COFFEE / ARCHEOLOGICAL TREASURE 17 P. Ingorokva Str, Tbilisi Museum (Karvasla), 8 Sioni Str. TADE / RATI TEL (+995 32) 2 47 57 37 May 3 NEW LIFE TO THE ORIENTAL Start time: 23:30 Animated documentary fi lm COLLECTIONS May 8 Ticket: 30-50 GEL REZO 150 years after the fi rst exhibition of Enjoy around 80 exhibits PLANET OR PLASTIC? Directed by Leo Gabriadze Natural History Museum showcasing the laws of physics, Organizer: National Geographic SILK FACTORY STUDIO Start time: 20:00 EXHIBITION- CAUCASUS biology, mathematics and anatomy, Magazine Georgia 59 Kostava Ave. Ticket: 15 GEL BIODIVERSITY all of which kids can touch and Venue: S. Janashia Museum of examine for themselves. Georgia, May 3 GEORGIAN COSTUME AND 3 Sh. Rustaveli Ave. ARTBAT/ MARC ROMBOY / 9EYE May 4 GALLERY THE AUTUMN OF MY WEAPONRY OF THE 18TH-20TH Opening: 19:00 Start time: 22:00 SPRINGTIME CENTURIES Ticket: 40 GEL MUSIC Revaz Gabriadze WISDOM TRANSFORMED INTO THE NATIONAL GALLERY Directed by Revaz Gabriadze GOLD 11 Rustaveli Ave. ALIBI ARENA English Subtitles TEL (+995 32) 215 73 00 SOUNDS OF GEORGIA Upper Phonichala Start time: 20:00 MUSEUM OF SOVIET OCCUPATION Ticket: 20, 30 GEL Until February 26 (2020) May 3, 4, 8, 9 May 4 4 Rustaveli Ave. GRAND MASTERS FROM THE SING AND DRINK BEER FESTIVAL May 8 TEL (+995 32) 2 99 80 22, 2 93 48 21 GEORGIAN 12:30 SHENDAME (Tornike Kipiani) www.museum.ge Mini concerts in the cozy atmosphere STALINGRAD NATIONAL MUSEUM of Old Tbilisi, a mix of traditional 14:00 Bedford Falls Revaz Gabriadze COLLECTION XIX – XX Georgian music of different genres: 16:00 Dagdagani Exhibition 18:00 Frani Directed by Revaz Gabriadze CENTURY folklore, a capella, guitar, and RED TERROR AND GEORGIAN 20:00 REGGAEON English Subtitles The exhibition showcases the Georgian pop and city songs. Start time: 20:00 ARTISTS 22:00 5’nizza works of Georgian painters: Gigo Start time: 17:00 Ticket: 20, 30 GEL The exhibition showcases artworks 00:30 Sumo, beRose by Dimitri Shevardnadze, Petre Gabashvili, Mose Toidze, Valerian Ticket: 24 GEL Sidamon-Eristavi, Alexander Start time: 12:00 MOVEMENT THEATER Otskheli, Henryk Hryniewski, Venue: May 3- 10 Erekle II Sq., Tekla Ticket: 30 GEL Richard Sommer, Kiril Zdanevich, Tsimakuridze, Aleksandre Bazbeuk- Palace Hotel, May 4- New Tifl is, 9 182 Aghmashenebeli Ave. Melikov, Dimitri Shevardnadze, Griboedov Theatrer TEL (+995 32) 598 19 29 36 Vasily Shukhaev, Elene Akhvlediani, Agmashenebeli Ave., Wine bar ‘Wine 2 Rustaveli Ave. Lado Gudiashvili, David Kakabadze, Sergo Kobuladze, Irina Shtenberg, Station’, May 8- Corner of 2 Turgenev Mikheil Bilanishvili, Felix May 3 Ucha Japharidze, Aleksandre Str., and 37 Javakhishvili Str., deep SUN CLUB Varlamishvili and Tamar Abakelia. ASTIGMATISTS Bajbeuk-Melikov, Korneli Sanadze yard, May 9- Europe Square, 2 D. 28 Pekini Ave. Directed by Ioseb Bakuradze and more. Megreli Str., Hotel “Nata” Until May 27 Start time: 20:00 May 3 Georgian National Museum and Ticket: 10-15 GEL MUSEUM OF ILLUSIONS TBILISI STATE Martivi Gamosavali/ Italian embassy in Georgia present May 4 10 Betlemi Str. CONSERVATOIRE Gamouvali Mdgomareoba the exhibition DON JUAN 8 Griboedov Str. Start time: 23:00 Directed by Kakha Bakuradze Discover the Museum of Illusions ESOTERIC DE CHIRICO. A Ticket: 20 GEL Be brave enough to jump into an TRAVELER BETWEEN TWO Composer: Sandro Nikoladze May 4 illusion created by the Vortex, WORLDS Start time: 20:00 DINI VIRSALADZE ART HALL Ticket: 10-15 GEL deform the image of yourself in the The exhibition showcases 15 26/2 A. Surguladze Str. Mirror Room, let yourself free in the artworks of Giorgio de Chirico Amazing Jazz Night in Tbilisi Start time: 19:00 May 5 Infi nity room, fi ght the laws of gravity between 1920-1970, clearly showing Ticket: 10-40 GEL May 3 IGGI and size ratio, and take pictures of that even his most “natural” artwork Georgian dance ensemble Daisi’s After Jemal Karchkhadze’s novel yourself in every possible pose. Enjoy hints at the surrealist world. concert May 6 SKY IN MINOR CONSERVATOIRE STUDENT Start time: 19:00 SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA Ticket: 10-15 GEL Conductor- Revaz Javakhishvili Program: Max Bruch IN THE DENSE FOREST Soloist: Irina Rostomashvili 4 I. Sukhishvili Str. Tskneti Max Bruch- Romance for Alti and Orchestra May 3 Soloist: Rusudan Kvaliashvili ETHNIC JAZZ BAND IRIAO WITH Petre Tchaikovsky- Pezzo DAVID MALAZONIA Capriccioso for cello and orchestra, Start time: 20:00 Op.62. Ticket: 25 GEL Soloist: Eliso Babuadze Morris Ravel- Introduction and U-BAHN Alagora for Arpes and Orchestra. 164 D. Agmashenebeli Ave. Soloist: Tamta Usenashvili Louis Schoper- Concert for May 4 SIVRCE in U-BAHN Clarinet and Orchestra # 4 Main stage: Soloist: David Jishkariani JAY SEBUA Franz Schubert- Symphony # 4 L8 Start time: 19:00 SPORTSMANSHIP Ticket: 5 GEL TAZO TSINTSADZE B2B ALEXANDRE GVELESIANI May 7 Darkroom: JAZZ TRIO: AKSED JOEL FRAHM, SHINOBI DAN LOOMIS, MIKELADZE ERNESTO CERVINI W.U.J.I Start time: 20:00 Start time: 21:00 Ticket: 10-40 GEL Ticket: 25 GEL GEORGIA TODAY MAY 3 - 6, 2019 CULTURE 11 Georgia’s Historic Gem: Sighnaghi, The City of Love to develop the nearby villages of Tsnori and Machkhaani. The latter is a unique village with an old theater from the 19th century and many historic houses, which are quite different from the usual Kakhe- tian houses. Machkhaani will soon be given the status of a Museum Village,” Batiashvili noted. The town council plans to establish a new tourist route connecting Sighnaghi, Tsnori, Machkhaani and proceeding to Dedoplitskharo, a city with its own Piro- smani museum. Investments should be made in agricultural tourism for those visitors who enjoy nature, hunting and fi shing, and who want to learn more about making churchkhela and baking Georgian bread. Several cable car routes should be established in order to con- nect some villages and allow visitors to enjoy great views of the Alazani Valley. What else makes Sighnaghi so attrac- tive for tourists? One of the town’s most renowned attractions is a quick marriage in the Marriage House, which operates 24/7. “All you need is your passport and two witnesses,” Batiashvili told us. “Just imagine: I recently met a couple who became husband and wife early in the morning, at 4 am!” Indeed, getting married is easy in Sighnaghi, as you don’t need to deal with involved in the tourism business. population of up to 10,000 people, the Madonna Batiashvili, I learned about bureaucracy at all. “Many of our citizens BY TATIANA MONTIK “When I registered my guesthouse in majority being of Armenian origin. The further plans concerning tourism and have become witnesses already, and they the Booking.com system three years ago, King had ordered the Armenians to set- further development of the Sighnaghi are now treated as relatives by the fam- I was the 34th on the list of Sighnaghi tle in Sighnaghi, as the Alazani Valley region. “In future, we want our guests ilies of the newly married couples,” ighnaghi is a charming little accomodation,” said Roman Beghashvili, had previously been devastated by Shah to stay longer in our region, so we plan Batiashvili proudly said. town to the east of Tbilisi, a Sighnaghi guesthouse owner. “Now, Abbas, who took 100,000 Georgians to located at an altitude of 740 there are around 150 on the list.” Persia. meters above sea level. The Competition drives those in tourism In the following centuries, Sighnaghi town offers scenic views of to make their places more attractive to became a great cultural and educational Sthe Alazani Valley and the Great Cau- tourists. The ideas vary and are some- center, with its own theater and schools. casian ridge, but not only this: Sighnaghi times rather eccentric. There are plenty Girls were educated in private schools and its surroundings are being developed of picturesque cafés and hotels built established in the houses of rich citizens. rapidly with more and more attractions beside the historic Sighnaghi wall. One In Soviet times, Sighnaghi was a fl our- popping up by the year. of them, for instance, located on high ishing tourist attraction with a big hotel When I fi rst went to Sighnaghi in 2010, stilts, seems to be hovering over the located close to the town. The town was the town was already in the process of town, and offers guests the chance to proud of its own Ethnographic Park, being restored. But even back then, a take a paraglider fl ight or enjoy a drink where archeologists from all over the visit to Sighnaghi was a great experience overlooking the Alazani Valley and the country worked together on excavations. in itself, taking into account its great historic wall, which is more than 4 km You still can visit this area now, if you historic wall, Sighnaghi National long. I’ve only had one comparable view take a walk in the beautiful and newly Museum, which houses a number of of a medieval wall, and that was in the restored town park, which is romanti- great masterpieces of Niko Pirosmani, historic city of Avila in . cally located on the slopes of Sighnaghi, and the town’s location close to the “The fi rst reminiscences of our town behind the wall. Also worth a visit is the famous pilgrims’ destination, the Bodbe wall were found in chronicles of the 13th local cemetery, bearing many exciting Monastery. century,” said Mariam Guliashvili, the stories of past times. With a little imag- In 2010, Sighnaghi, in terms of infra- town historian. “But the construction ination, you can see the town history structure, didn’t have much to offer of the wall which you can see now was right there. visitors aside from its great panoramic ordered in the 18th century by King In order to inquire about recent ten- views and a few newly refurbished cen- Irakli II. Our enemies used to attack our dencies in tourism, I headed to the tral streets. It had a few restaurants, one villages in the Alazani Valley: from the Sighnaghi Information Center. The hotel and a couple of guesthouses. The north came the Lezgins, from the south offi cer, Zurab Siprashvili, told me that rest of the town, with its crumbling the Persians. They stole our women, just 10% of those who come to Sighnaghi facades, rusty roofs and pot-holed roads, children and livestock in order to sell actually visit the Information Center. reminded one heavily of a Potemkin them into slavery. To protect the inhab- He put the number of tourists that vis- village. itants of the valley from the intruders, ited Sighnaghi last year at around 11,000 Since then, many things have changed. King Irakli II gave the order to construct people, with the trend growing by the The city’s appearance, its roads, facades, this wall, which according to different year. Most of the tourists come from and infrastructure have been restored documents was between 5 and 7 km long Russia, Poland, Germany, and or renovated; and throughout the town and had 23 towers and eight gates. Now Israel. numerous restaurants and guesthouses we have over 4.5 km of it left, which Sighnaghi’s location on a hill high above have been established. Tourists from all comes close to the Small Wall of China the ancient winemaking valley contrib- over the world, including China, South with its 5 km length.” utes to its increasing popularity. There Korea and Japan, now stream to Sighnaghi, Sighnaghi received its “city” status in are four big wineries as well as many meaning you’ll be hard put to fi nd a 1770. At that time, it was already a vivid wine degustation points in Sighnaghi. household there which is not somehow town of workmanship and trade with a From the town’s Deputy Mayor,

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