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A Woman's Wanderings in the Western World ; a Series of Letters Addressed

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A Woman's Wanderings in the Western World ; a Series of Letters Addressed I . * x '-y^ ** # A WOMAN'S WANDEEINGS IN THE WESTEEN WORLD %, j>nlK nf Irite aitesti tn SIR EITZROY KELLY, M.P. BY HIS DAUGHTER MES. BEOMLEY A V LONDON SAUNDEKS, OTLEY, AND CO. 66 BROOK STREET, HANOVER SQUARE 1861 The right of Translation y's rertrrctf. JX)NDON FEINTED BY SPOTTIS WOOD E AND CO. NEW-STREET SQUARE THE following pages contain a short narrative of travel in North and South America, Mexico, and the West Indies, undertaken by the Author for the renovation of health and spirits, severely shaken by domestic losses during the preceding year. The author gladly takes this occasion of expressing her grateful sense of the kindness, courtesy, and hospi- tality she met with from all whom she came across tour. It is of in \->. during her no small tribute praise honour of the Spanish, American, and Spanish- . American people, to state the fact, that during a period of ten months' travel in their domains, and over a space of upwards of 20,000 miles, a woman and a stranger, accompanied only by a young friend (a girl), met with no word or act of annoyance from first to last. WANDERINGS IN THE WESTERN WORLD, CHAPTER I. ST. THOMAS, July \*ih, 1853. We arrived here, my dear Father, this morning, after a prosperous and pleasant voyage of fifteen days. I can scarcely per- suade myself yet that the past fortnight is not a I in another and dream ; that really am hemisphere, another clime that the view I am now ; contemplating of this beautiful island, its deep blue sky and tropical vegetation, will not dissolve itself into the Apsley gardens and the statue of Achilles, or some equally familiar home scene. However, assuming that I am awake, I will, according to promise, note down for your amusement (I hope) during your few hours of leisure, all my doings and adventures in their due course. The first few days after leaving South- B 2 WANDERINGS IN THE WESTERN WORLD. " " ampton were chiefly occupied in fixing ourselves, and making acquaintance one with another, neither of which was attended with much difficulty, as fortu- nately neither Eleanor nor I have suffered at all from sea-sickness. On the seventh day we sighted the Azores, especially the island of St. Michael, and were able just faintly to discern the Peak of Pico. I was to land but the rules of the sorry not to be allowed ; packet service forbid touching anywhere on the way, except in a case of necessity. We have had the advantage of two captains during the voyage, as, besides Captain Woolley, who commands our beauti- ful Parana, we are accompanied by Captain Abbott, who joins his own ship, which has been out here under repair. Our fellow-passengers have been mostly agreeable and kindly-disposed people, gathered indeed from many different nations. We formed a miniature Babel between us in of but point tongues ; luckily there was neither quarrel nor disagreement, and I believe we shall all part and go on our respec- tive ways now with mutual regret. I must not for- get to tell you that I have been persuaded by two or three experienced travellers in these countries, to change the route I had originally intended to take, and instead of paying my visit at Barbados now, and proceeding to America later in the season, I propose going at once to Havana, thence make a short tour in the United States, and return south to Barbados in ST. THOMAS TROPICAL VEGETATION. 3 October or November. There is some risk, I am told, of being snowed up and detained for months in America when travelling so late in the year. Finding that the Clyde (the steamer bound for Havana) does not sail till to-morrow at mid-day, we went on shore this morning, and took a drive about the town and environs, a friend of Captain Abbott's having good-naturedly organised a carriage and pair of horses to be in readiness for us. The yellow fever is still raging in St. Thomas, I am sorry to hear, though its violence has much abated' during the last few weeks. It is now chiefly confined to the ships in the harbour, especially that part where the coaling takes but both and land place ; town are now com- paratively free from the scourge. It is singular, however, that no one speaks of it as a thing they feared in the least degree. A row of about ten minutes brought us to the shore, and for the first time I trod not on European ground. St. Thomas is not generally named ad a favourable specimen of a tropical climate but it is so new to and the is in ; me, change every respect so complete from all we left on the other side of the Atlantic, as to be sufficient to please by its novelty alone. What richness of colour per- vades everything, land, sea and sky seem to vie with each other in depth and gorgeousness of hue. At the risk of horrifying and displeasing my compatriots, for good and all, I must aver that I never knew before B 2 4 WANDERINGS IN THE WESTERN WORLD. what real green trees and green grass were. One pe- culiarity of the vegetation here I cannot understand, namely, that with a tropical sun absolutely blazing all day, and with pretty nearly equal violence through- burnt out the year, yet nothing seems ; leaves, trees, and plants look as fresh as spring. Now in England or France, or any temperate climate, a fortnight uninterrupted summer sunshine is enough to burn, dry up, and change the colour of everything; in short, the glory of the summer would have departed. I suppose there must be some way of accounting for this singularity, but for my part, I must apply to some wiser head than my own to elucidate it. There are palm trees in abundance here, the principal fea- tures in all my beau-ideal landscapes. I observed in the course of our drive, the banyan, tamarind, and mango, hitherto only known at home in our hot- houses. I admire the tamarind leaf it exceedingly ; is so graceful. Also I must not omit mentioning my introduction to a sugar plantation, which, however, did not make so pleasing an impression as other new arborical acquaintances. They (the sugar canes) look like a forest of rushes but the tell ; people here me I should wait to see them in flower before pro- " " nouncing the fiat of ugly upon them. En revanche I may be permitted irrevocably so to designate the inhabitants, i. e. the black people. I could scarcely have imagined anything so hideous as a black baby, NEQRO FINERY GREAT COTTON TREE. 5 and I don't know which was worst, one I saw about six months old, in white swaddling clothes, or another just able to toddle alone, and who, instead of being a rosy, dimpled little cherub, as might be expected, was as black as ink, and, moreover, stark naked. With the grown-up female population, however, de- ficiency of dress cannot be complained of; every colour in the rainbow is pressed into the service, and generally at the same time the more the better to think and seem they seem ; yellow, sky-blue pink the fashionable tints, and dresses are generally worn flounced up to the waist. Neither shoes nor stock- ings are usually worn, except on Sundays to go to church, and then the former are of white satin ! I was nearly forgetting to chronicle almost the only re- markable curiosity belonging to this island, namely, a gigantic cotton tree. I am afraid to trust my memory as to its age or size, though both were told me, but its proportions are most colossal, and the shapes assumed by its gnarled and twisted branches are most extraordinary. The tree, altogether, would form, in the outline, a very good representation of the Laocoon magnified a hundred times. The time had now come to bid farewell to the Parana and our ocean friends, which we did with real regret. A long voyage makes one become quite attached even to inanimate things : I was really grieved to quit my little cabin. There are only four of our old B 3 6 WANDERINGS IN THE WESTERN WORLD. companions going on with us to Havana, the rest are to scatter themselves far and wide in every direction. St. Thomas is the central spot whence radiate all routes to other parts of the western hemisphere. The Clyde seems quite a nutshell after the Parana. She is commanded by Captain Wilson, a son of the Bishop of Calcutta. I shall close my letter now, as the mail starts for England very early to-morrow morning. Ever your affectionate, C. HAVANA HAKBOUR, CHAPTEE II. Fonda de los Americanos, Havana. My dear Father, We landed here yesterday, and I resume the narrative of my progress, although this sea travelling is such an easy nonchalant sort of life, it makes one quite idle, but as the weather is somewhat hot I shall be sorry to leave the sea for the land journey. On the 19th and 20th we coasted along San Domingo and Porto Kico, but did not touch at either. Early in the morning of the 22nd the lighthouse of Havana was in sight, and at 4 o'clock P.M. we entered the harbour. I had heard in England that the entrance to a scene of all Havana was but matchless beauty ; I think is beautiful this, however, exaggerated ; very it truly is, and the immense palm trees fringing its shore, give it a character peculiarly its own : still I think the ports of Naples, Genoa, and above all, Corfu, may successfully vie with it in magnificence of scenery.
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